VESTA STEEL SIDING INSTALLATION GUIDE

Overview & Terminology

This section provides an overview of Vesta Steel Siding and its terminology.

Vesta Panel Details

The Vesta system includes 6 distinct woodgrain panels and 1 solid panel with a matte textured finish.

Vesta Components and Siding Accessories

• 1. Plank Panel: Available in 8 ft woodgrain and 12 ft solid lengths.
• 2. Plank Starter Strip: Secures the first row of panels to the wall, color-matched for panels to hook into.
• 3. Outside Corner Post (O.C.P.): Available in Single and Dual Flange. Installed at outside corners to allow siding insertion on both sides.
• 4. Inside Corner Block: Used to flash inside corners, compatible with or without J-Channel.
• 5. J-Channel: Installed around windows and doors, and also used to cap the last row of panels.
• 6. L-Flashing: An alternative to J-Channel for the sides of windows or doors.
• 7. Plank Drip Cap: Installed above windows and doors to direct water away. Also serves as a starter for vertical panel installation. Color-matched.
• 8. Trim Coil: Used to create custom parts and flashing on-site.
• 9. Support Trim: Used to support the last row of panels, installed inside of J-channel.
• Utility Trim: Covers or caps trimmed panels.
• Brick Ledge Flashing: Installed over brick or stone wall transitions to prevent water ingress.
• Touch-Up Paint: For minor panel touch-ups.

Tools & Equipment

Required Tools

• Hammer
• Level (2 ft. and 4 ft.)
• Tape Measure
• Power Saw
• Ferrous Cutting Saw Blade
• Electric Shear
• Utility Knife
• Safety Goggles
• Aviation Snips
• Flathead Screwdriver
• Caulk Gun
• Speed Square
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Cordless Driver
• Tin Snips
• Chalk Line
• Sheet Metal Gloves
• Hand Seamer
• Foam Pad
• Driver bit for Panel Screws (if using screws)

Helpful Tools

• Sheet Metal Brake
• Power Shears
• Ladder Hook
• Table Saw
• Circular Saw
• Trim Coil
• Touch-up Paint
• Nail Punch
• Butyl or urethane based caulk

Ladders and Scaffolds

Various styles are available. Extension ladders and ladder jacks are common for portability and cost-effectiveness. Consult your local OSHA office for proper scaffolding specifications.

Cutting Steel Siding

Proper cutting techniques are essential for a clean installation and to protect the siding's finish.

Saws

The recommended saws for cutting steel siding are a sliding miter saw and a siding cutting table using a circular saw. Avoid setting up saws in areas where cutting chips can fall onto or damage the siding's paint and protective coating.

Saw Blade Type

When cutting steel siding, a carbide-tipped ferrous cutting blade is mandatory. Use a blade with the maximum number of teeth for its diameter. Thin steel requires many teeth. Never use a grinder or an abrasive saw, as this can damage the protective finish and void the warranty. Always wear protective safety glasses and gloves. Follow tool and blade safety instructions.

Sliding Miter Saw

Never plunge the saw directly into the steel panel. Start the cut off the panel and then slowly push through the panel.

Electric Shear

This tool is useful for lengthwise cuts across the face of the siding, particularly helpful for window and door cuts.

Tin Snips

Tin snips can be used for cutting siding, J-Channel, and trim. Offset snips are recommended, and left-hand and right-hand snips are best for detailed cuts.

Siding Cutting Table

This table allows a standard circular saw with a proper steel blade to cut siding and soffit. It is particularly helpful for angled cuts on peaks and rakes. These tables are lightweight, portable, and allow the saw to be positioned away from the siding during cuts, reducing the risk of scratches or damage.

Fastener Selection

Type and Size

• Preferred Method: #11 Electro-Galvanized Steel Roofing Nails.
• Alternate Method (Screws): #8 Zinc Lath Screws or Modified Truss Head Screws.
• For Metal Studs: Truss-Head Drill Point Lath Screws.
• For Wood Studs: Truss Head Screw or Lath Screw with a sharp point.

Use only zinc/galvanized coated steel or stainless steel. Never use aluminum nails or staples.

Fastener Length for Framing Type

• Horizontal Siding, Wood Framing: Fasteners must penetrate a minimum of 1-1/4" into the wood sheeting and framing (e.g., through 1/2" sheeting and 3/4" into framing).
• Vertical Siding, Wood Framing: Screws are recommended for best holding performance. Fasteners must penetrate all the way through the wood sheeting.
• Horizontal Siding, Steel Framing: Screws must penetrate through the wood sheeting and steel framing.
• Vertical Siding, Steel Framing: Screws are recommended. Fasteners must penetrate all the way through the wood sheeting.

Details and Examples

Allow a minimum of 3/16" to 1/4" gap between the fastener head and the siding for expansion and contraction. For example, on a wood-framed wall with 1/2" sheeting, the minimum nail length is 1 1/2" (1/4" expansion + 1/2" sheeting + 3/4" framing).

Fastening Techniques

Fasten All Panels Loose, Hang/Float

• Maintain a gap or space of at least 1/8" behind the nail/screw head.
• Drive the fastener head to the nailing flange, stopping before it hits the flange.
• Use the panel as a straight edge to hide imperfections in the wall.

Panel Fastening Specifications

Placement: Always drive fasteners straight into the wall, never on an angle. Always leave a minimum of 1/8" to 3/16" gap behind the fastener head. This is referred to as floating the panel. Never fasten at the end of a panel.

Installation: Fasten all panels loose (floating) to the wall using fasteners in the holes along the top of the panel, spaced 16" on center. Ensure each panel is fully engaged to the one below via the pre-rolled feature at the bottom of the panel before fastening it.

IMPORTANT: To avoid oil canning (waviness), do not tightly fasten the panel to the wall. The panel should appear to be hanging on the screw or nail. Do not push down with intense force while fastening the panel.

Installation Guidelines & Preparation

General

Plank panels must be installed on a minimum 1½" O.S.B. or plywood solid flat wall over house wrap, such as DuPont™™ Tyvek®.

Storage

Store metal building materials in a dry, well-ventilated place. Never cover materials with a non-breathing tarp, as this can cause condensation and deteriorate the protective coating.

Handling

Carry plank panels on their edge, not flat, to prevent bending and warping.

Safety Guidelines

Follow all governmental safety procedures, including OSHA guidelines. Always wear safety gloves, safety glasses, and fall protection gear.

Maintenance

Remove accumulated debris to keep the wall moisture-free. Tighten loose fasteners or trim pieces as needed. Consult a certified applicator for repairs or replacements. Repainting is generally not required within the warranty period.

Warranty

Register your warranty by filling out the form on QualityEdge.com/warranties.

Dissimilar Metals

Avoid direct contact between dissimilar metals (e.g., steel siding and aluminum accessories) to prevent corrosion. Use an insulator (like neoprene or bonding washers) or materials with similar corrosion resistance. If one material is coated, it may prevent electron transfer.

Surface Preparation

Remove and replace any rotted or damaged boards. Shim out any waves in the wall. Secure loose boards or trim. Scrape away old caulking, especially where it interferes with new trim. Seal air leaks with new caulk. Remove obstructions like downspouts, cables, etc. Contact a professional for meter box or power line work.

House Wrap

Install house wrap over exterior vertical wall sheathing. Flash all windows, doors, and wall penetrations. House wrap (e.g., DuPont™™ Tyvek® HomeWrap® or Drain Wrap™™) helps prevent air and water ingress while allowing vapor escape, contributing to building durability. Follow manufacturer installation guides.

Window & Door Build Out (Optional)

This optional step involves building out window and door casings with trim boards. It improves appearance and provides a surface to butt J-Channel against, hiding its backside.

Note: Steel siding and trim must never come in contact with other metals like aluminum. Flashing tape can be used as a spacer.

Establishing Lines

Straightline

Use a chalk line to establish a reference line for the starter strip, often measured down from the eave line or window sills. This ensures the siding runs parallel to these elements, creating a level appearance.

Level

Check wall levelness. Use a chalk line and level to determine the starter strip line. Drive a nail at the desired height, connect the chalk line, pull it tight, and snap it. Use a level (4 ft. or longer) at the center of the line to ensure accuracy. Repeat for all sides, ensuring lines match up. This is crucial for subsequent rows.

Inside Corners

Option 1: J-Channels

Use two J-Channels at right angles. Install a small bead of caulk where they meet. J-Channels should extend from 1½" below the starter strip to the eave or gable trim. Overlap bottom pieces if shorter lengths are needed. Nail every 12", avoiding over-tightening. Fit panels into the J-Channel, leaving a 1/16" gap between the panel's back side and the J-Channel.

Option 2: Inside Corner Block

Mount the corner block onto the wall starting at the bottom. Overlap net pieces over the lower block. Fit panels up to the inside corner block. Anchor panels by nailing between the nail holes to allow for expansion and contraction, preventing the panel from moving away from the block.

Option 3: Inside Corner Block with 2 Finish Trim J-Channels

Mount the corner block. Install J-Channels on the two sides of the corner block. Fit panels into the J-Channels, maintaining a 1/8" gap between the inside of the J and the panels.

Outside Corners

Outside Corner Post (O.C.P.)

Available in Single and Dual Flange types. The bottom and tops of O.C.P.s can be capped. Install O.C.P.s prior to siding, 1½" below the starter strip and running to the eave or gable trim. Overlap if multiple posts are needed. Nail every 12" on the nailing flange, avoiding over-tightening. Ensure corners are installed squarely to the wall.

Starter Strip

Install the top of the starter strip on your established chalk line. Build out any hollow spots behind the starter strip to prevent wavy appearances in the bottom row of siding. Ensure the starter strip is straight and meets accurately at all corners. Nail or screw no more than 12" O.C., as low as possible for rigidity. Do not overdrive fasteners. Butt starter strips together. Starter strip can be cut with tin snips.

Other Starter Methods

J-Channel may be used as a starter strip in situations over decks, concrete porches, brick, or garage doors.

Windows and Doors

Drip Cap

A color-matched plank drip cap can be used as an alternative to standard steel drip cap. Install the drip cap over the window or door, then mount the J-Channel.

Panels at Windows and Doors (Tops)

Cutting panels for window and door tops is similar to bottoms. Measure clearance to the inside of the J-Channel. For horizontal cuts, add an extra 1/4" to allow the bottom of the panel to slide over the lock of the lower panel and engage.

Support Trim

Use support trim if needed to keep horizontally cut panels supported. Nail support trim behind the finish trim that covers the horizontal cut.

Flashing

It is recommended to install window tape over existing window nail flanges. Additionally, install window tape or coil stock under the nail flange of the side finish trim, lapping over the siding panel nail flange directly below the window or opening. This directs water over the siding and out weep holes.

L-Flashing

L-Flashing can be used as an alternative to J-Channel on the sides of windows and doors. Fit panels up to the L-Flashing. Anchor panels by nailing between the nail holes to allow for expansion and contraction.

Brick Ledge Flashing

Brick ledge flashing is used to prevent water from getting behind stone or brick. Install this flashing before the J-Channel finish trim.

Gables

Gable Sidewall Finish Trim

Install finish trim at the bottom of the sidewall before siding installation to hide cut ends. Start at the bottom and work to the top, overlapping pieces if necessary. At the peak, butt one trim piece into the peak and overlap with the other side trim. Nail or screw every 16".

Installing Panels in the Gables

When installing panels in gables, it is often easier to use short pieces. Support trim will be needed for the last panel.

Panel Fastening Specifications

Fasten All Panels Loose, Hang/Float

• Maintain a gap or space of at least 1/8" behind the nail/screw head.
• Drive the fastener head to the nailing flange, stopping before it hits the flange.
• Use the panel as a straight edge to hide imperfections in the wall.

Panel Fastening Specifications

Placement: Always drive fasteners straight into the wall, never on an angle. Always leave a minimum of 1/8" - 3/16" gap behind the fastener head. This is referred to as floating the panel. Never fasten at the end of a panel.

Installation: Fasten all panels loose (floating) to the wall using fasteners in the holes along the top of the panel, spaced 16" on center. Ensure each panel is fully engaged to the one below via the pre-rolled feature at the bottom of the panel before fastening it.

IMPORTANT: To avoid oil canning (waviness), do not tightly fasten the panel to the wall. The panel should appear to be hanging on the screw or nail. Do not push down with intense force while fastening the panel.

Panel Layout and Installation

Siding Overlap Options

• Option 1: Slide the 1/2" tab inside the panel, leaving a 1/8" gap by the nailing flange. This provides the largest overlap and closes the bottom notch most effectively. Use this option for wall installations.
• Option 2: Use only when installing around windows, doors, or obstacles. Overlap the panel by 1/2" and do not slide it into the next panel. This option leaves a larger gap on the notch in the lower end of the siding panel.

Row One

Row one is critical as it is the basis for all subsequent rows. Ensure this row runs parallel to the eaves and/or windows, or is level. Install the bottom lock of the siding around the bottom edge of the starter strip, ensuring the entire lock is engaged. Avoid pulling too hard on this row to prevent distortion. Check alignment at corners. Maintain a minimum 6" clearance from the ground to the bottom of the first row. Install the end of the siding into corner post openings first. Apply light downward pressure along the entire piece, ensuring it engages the steel starter strip. Screws should be placed in the middle of the factory holes provided at the top of the panel.

Panel Install Details for Wood Painted Panels

The wood printed panels feature 6 distinct wood grains, numbered 1 to 6 on the top nailing flange. Mix panels with different numbers on the wall for the best aesthetic result. Avoid installing panels in a stair-step pattern with the same number adjacent to each other.

Last Row of Panel Installation

1. Install the finish trim J-Channel under the soffit at the eave edge.
2. Set the support trim inside the J-Channel to support the panel.
3. Measure and cut the last panel.
4. Push the panel up between the finish trim J-Channel and the support trim.
5. Pull the cut panel back down into the lower panel receiver.

Vertical Installation Option

Vesta plank panels can be installed vertically. Use the plank drip cap as a starter to cap the bottom of the panels. Begin with a full panel, ensuring it is parallel to the adjacent wall or corner post. Check this parallelism periodically. Always overlap the upper panel over the lower panel for water management. Offset patterns, such as a 12 ft panel followed by a 6 ft panel, can create an attractive look.

Tips and FAQs

Clean Up

Use mild soap and water with a soft cloth or sponge. Do not rub excessively, as this could damage the surface. Mineral spirits may be used sparingly to remove grease or asphalt stains.

Job Site

Re-install all fixtures and wires removed prior to installation. Remove scrap pieces, siding boxes, nails, and other debris daily.

Additional Tips

It may be necessary to leave J-Channels or corner posts loose around openings to facilitate the installation of short siding panels. You may also need to remove J-Channels temporarily to insert short pieces and then slip the J-Channel back in. Nailing for this procedure can be done into the back side of the J-Channel at every other row into the casing it butts into. A nail set can help set nails into wood. If leaving J-Channels loose, bow out the ends and slip siding into the J-Channels and lock together.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Q: What do you nail them to?
  A: Minimum of 7/16" O.S.B. is required. It is best to nail into the studs for horizontal siding.
• Q: What to put under the siding?
  A: Use the best house wrap you can afford for the project.
• Q: What starter to use?
  A: Plank siding uses a J-style hook that is color-matched because it can be seen after installation.
• Q: Can you use nails or screws for siding?
  A: Screws and nails can be used to install Vesta. Use a minimum of 1½" long galvanized/zinc roofing nails. For screws, use #8 galvanized/zinc modified truss screws or lath screws. When mounting into wood, use a screw with a sharp point. If mounting onto a steel stud, use a self-drilling screw.
• Q: Do you have to caulk the gaps?
  A: Caulk is not recommended on any gaps on Vesta.
• Q: Which J-channel to use?
  A: ½" J-Channel (finish trim) is used.
• Q: What is L-channel used for?
  A: L-Flashing is used as a replacement for J-Channel around windows, doors, and more.
• Q: How do I replace a bad section of siding?
  A: A panel of siding can be replaced by cutting out the bad panel about 1½" down from the upper panel. Cut the full length of the bad panel. Cut the replacement panel as close as possible to the upper lock. Apply construction adhesive to the 1½" steel siding left on the wall. Slide the cut panel under the upper siding and over the 1½" cut panel on the wall and lock it into place.
• Q: Can you use steel siding on a barn or commercial building?
  A: Vesta can be used on most buildings if they have: 1) Wood O.S.B. type of wall, and 2) Studs (wood or steel) to drive the nails or screws into.
• Q: What insulation does QE recommend?
  A: QE does not get into the details of a home's construction regarding insulation.
• Q: What do I do when I have the siding meeting the aluminum soffit?
  A: The paint on the J-Channel will help separate the metals, but it is a good practice to leave a small gap between the parts for airflow.

Notes

This section is intentionally left blank for user notes.