A O Smith Residential Gas Water Heater Instruction Manual GPHE 50 Vertex 197423 001 0606.p65

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Instruction Manual

PRINTED IN THE U.S.A 0606 PART NO. 197423-001

KEEP THIS MANUAL IN THE POCKET ON HEATER FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

WHENEVER MAINTENANCE ADJUSTMENT OR SERVICE IS REQUIRED.

POWER VENTED GAS MODELS W/HOT SURFACE IGNITION

NOT FOR USE IN MANUFACTURED (MOBILE) HOMES

ALL TECHNICAL AND WARRANTY QUESTIONS: SHOULD BE DIRECTED TO THE LOCAL DEALER FROM WHOM THE WATER HEATER WAS

PURCHASED. IF YOU ARE UNSUCCESSFUL, PLEASE WRITE TO THE COMPANY LISTED ON THE RATING PLATE ON THE WATER HEATER.

RESIDENTIAL GAS WATER HEATERS

• For Your Safety •

AN ODORANT IS ADDED TO THE GAS USED

BY THIS WATER HEATER.

Ashland City, TN 37015

www.hotwater.com

SAFE INSTALLATION, USE AND SERVICE

Your safety and the safety of others is extremely important in the installation, use and servicing of this water heater.

Many safety-related messages and instructions have been provided in this manual and on your own water heater to warn you and

others of a potential injury hazard. Read and obey all safety messages and instructions throughout this manual. It is very

important that the meaning of each safety message is understood by you and others who install, use or service this water heater.

All safety messages will generally tell you about the type of hazard, what can happen if you do not follow the safety message and

how to avoid the risk of injury.

IMPORTANT DEFINITIONS

•Qualified Installer: A qualified installer must have ability equivalent to a licensed tradesman in the fields of plumbing,

air supply, venting and gas supply, including a thorough understanding of the requirements of the National Fuel Gas

Code as it relates to the installation of gas fired water heaters. The qualified installer must also be familiar with the

design features of water heaters, and have a thorough understanding of this instruction manual.

•Service Agency: A service agency also must have ability equivalent to a licensed tradesman in the fields of plumbing,

air supply, venting and gas supply, including a thorough understanding of the requirements of the National Fuel Gas

Code as it relates to the installation of gas fired water heaters. The service agency must also have a thorough

understanding of this instruction manual, and be able to perform repairs strictly in accordance with the service guidelines

provided by the manufacturer.

•Gas Supplier: The Natural Gas or Propane Utility or service who supplies gas for utilization by the gas burning

appliances within this application. The gas supplier typically has responsibility for the inspection and code approval of

gas piping up to and including the Natural Gas meter or Propane storage tank of a building. Many gas suppliers also

offer service and inspection of appliances within the building.

GENERAL SAFETY

Thank You for purchasing this water heater. Properly installed and

maintained, it should give you years of trouble free service.

Abbreviations Found In This Instruction Manual:

• CSA - Canadian Standards Association

• ANSI - American National Standards Institute

• NFPA - National Fire Protection Association

• ASME - American Society of Mechanical Engineers

• GAMA - Gas Appliance Manufacturer’s Association

• UL - Underwriters Laboratories Inc.

This gas-fired water heater is design certified by Underwriters

Laboratories Inc. under American National Standard/CSA Standard

for Gas Water Heaters ANSI Z21.10.3 • CSA 4.3 (current edition).

PREPARING FOR THE INSTALLATION

1. Read the “General Safety” section, page 3 and 4 of this manual

first and then the entire manual carefully. If you don’t follow the safety

rules, the water heater will not operate properly. It could cause

DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY AND/OR PROPERTY DAMAGE.

This manual contains instructions for the installation, operation, and

maintenance of the gas-fired water heater. It also contains warnings

throughout the manual that you must read and be aware of. All

warnings and all instructions are essential to the proper operation of

the water heater and your safety. Since we cannot put everything

on the first few pages, READ THE ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE

ATTEMPTING TO INSTALL OR OPERATE THE WATER HEATER.

2. The installation must conform with these instructions and the

local code authority having jurisdiction. In the absence of local

codes, installations shall comply with the National Fuel Gas Code

(ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54) or the Natural Gas and Propane

Installation Code (CAN/CSA B149.1) and the National Electrical

Code (NFPA 70), or the Canadian Electrical Code (C22.1). These

publications are available from The National Fire Protection

Association, 1 Batterymarch Park, Quincy, MA 02269.

3. The water heater when installed must be grounded in accordance

with the local codes, or in the absence of local codes: the National

Electrical Code (NFPA 70) or the Canadian Electrical Code (C22.1).

4. If after reading this manual you have any questions or do not

understand any portion of the instructions, call the local gas utility

or the manufacturer whose name appears on the rating plate.

5. Carefully plan the place where you are going to put the water

heater. Correct combustion, vent action, and vent pipe installation

are very important in preventing death from possible carbon

monoxide poisoning and fires, see Figures 1 and 2.

Examine the location to ensure the water heater complies with

the “Locating the New Water Heater” section in this manual.

6. For California installation this water heater must be braced,

anchored, or strapped to avoid falling or moving during an

earthquake. See instructions for correct installation procedures.

Instructions may be obtained from California Office of the State

Architect, 400 P Street, Sacramento, CA 95814.

7. Massachusetts Code requires this water heater to be installed in

accordance with Massachusetts 248-CMR 2.00: State Plumbing

Code and 248-CMR 5.00.

8. Complies with SCAQMD rule #1146 and districts having equivalent

NOx requirements.

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SAFE INSTALLATION, USE AND SERVICE ........................... 2

GENERAL SAFETY ............................................................. 3-4

TABLE OF CONTENTS ...........................................................5

INTRODUCTION .....................................................................5

Preparing for the Installation ............................................5

TYPICAL INSTALLATION .................................................... 6-8

LOCATING THE NEW WATER HEATER ...........................9-11

Facts to Consider About Location .............................. 9-10

Insulation Blankets .........................................................10

Combustion Air and Ventilation for Appliances

Located in Unconfined Spaces.......................................10

Combustion Air and Ventilation for Appliances

Located in Confined Spaces ..................................... 10-11

INSTALLING THE WATER HEATER ............................... 12-24

Chemical Vapor Corrosion .............................................12

Water Piping ............................................................. 12-13

Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve ............................... 13

Gas Piping ...................................................................... 14

Sediment Traps .............................................................. 15

Filling the Water Heater .................................................15

Vent Pipe Assembly ....................................................... 15

Venting ........................................................................... 15

Vent Pipe Termination .................................................... 16

Planning the Vent System ..............................................17

Condensate .............................................................. 17-18

Blower Assembly Installation ..........................................18

Installation of Vent System ....................................... 18-20

Vent Attenuation Assembly Installation Instructions ....... 21-22

Vent Pipe Preparation .............................................. 23-24

LIGHTING & OPERATING LABEL ........................................25

TEMPERATURE REGULATION ............................................ 26

FOR YOUR INFORMATION ..................................................27

Start Up Conditions

Smoke/Odor ...........................................................27

Thermal Expansion .................................................27

Strange Sounds ......................................................27

Operational Conditions ...................................................27

Smelly Water ..........................................................27

“Air” in Hot Water Faucets ......................................27

High Temperature Shut Off System ........................ 27

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE ............................................ 28-30

Venting System Inspection .............................................28

Burner Operation and Inspection ...................................28

Burner Cleaning .............................................................28

Housekeeping .......................................................... 28-29

Anode Rod Inspection ....................................................29

Temperature-Pressure Relief Valve Operation ..............29

Draining ..........................................................................29

Service ...........................................................................30

LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS ................................................... 30

REPAIR PARTS .....................................................................31

TROUBLESHOOTING ..................................................... 32-34

WARRANTY ..........................................................................35

TYPICAL INSTALLATION

* CAUTION HARNESS HAS 120 VAC. IN OPERATION.

** See "PLANNING THE VENT SYSTEM", "CONDENSATE" and "BLOWER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION" for

more information.

***The side recirculation loop connections may not be used as the primary water inlet and outlet connections.

For your convenience, plugs are installed in these fittings at the factory. Remove these plugs if needed for

your specific installation. Otherwise (as with all connections) check for leaks while filling the tank with

water and after completing the installation. FIGURE 1

VACUUM RELIEF

VALVE

*INSTALL PER

LOCAL CODES

TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT BUTTONS

TEMPERATURE INDICATORS

(X)

Q Rating Plate

R Insulation

S Vent Terminal

T Drain Valve

U Igniter And Main Burner

W Drain Pan

X Control

Y Control Harness*

AA Motor & Blower

CC Condensate Fitting

(4 Places Shown)**

D D Plastic Top

E E On/Off Switch

FF Exhaust Tee

GG Elbow

GET TO KNOW YOUR WATER HEATER - GAS MODELS

A Vent Pipe

B Anode

C Hot Water Outlet

D Outlet (120 VAC)

F Gas Supply

G Main Manual Gas Shut Off Valve

H Ground Joint Union

J Dirt Leg

K Outer Door

L Union

M Inlet Water Shut Off Valve

N Cold Water Inlet

O Inlet Dip Tube

P Temperature & Pressure

Relief Valve

HH Bushing

II Nipple

JJ Condensate Tee

KK Hose Barb

LL Plug

MM Vent Pipe Assembly #1

NN Vent Pipe Assembly #2

OO Vent Pipe Assembly #3

PP Side Recirculation Loop

Inlet***

Q Q Side Recirculation Loop

Outlet*** (not shown)

R R Vent Attenuation

Assembly (VAA) (Optional)

CONDENSATE ASSEMBLY

(U) NATURAL GAS MAIN BURNER

WITH IGNITER ASSEMBLY

SIDE VIEW

REPLACEMENT PARTS AND DELIMING

PRODUCTS

Replacement parts and recommended delimer may be ordered through

authorized servicers or distributors. When ordering parts, provide complete

model and serial numbers (see rating plate), quantity and name of part

desired. Standard hardware items may be purchased locally.

TYPICAL INSTALLATION

CONDENSATE HOSE AND DRAIN PAN

FIGURE 1 (continued).

* Note: Condensate Trap Loops must be oriented in a vertical plane as shown. The traps

also must be primed by filling half of the loop with water prior to operating the water heater.

Carefully plan the location of the loops and straight sections of hose prior to cutting hoses.

If necessary, secure the hoses to the side of the water heater or some other rigid structure

to prevent crimping. While securing the hoses, do not pierce or crimp the hoses.

TYPICAL INSTALLATION

FIGURE 2.

MIXING VALVE USAGE

This appliance has been design certified as complying with American

National Standard/CSA Standard for water heaters and is considered

suitable for:

Water (Potable) Heating and Space Heating: All models are

considered suitable for water (potable) heating and space heating.

HOTTER WATER CAN SCALD:

Water heaters are intended to produce hot water. Water heated to a

temperature which will satisfy space heating, clothes washing, dish

washing, and other sanitizing needs can scald and permanently injure

you upon contact. Some people are more likely to be permanently

injured by hot water than others. These include the elderly, children,

the infirm, or physically/mentally handicapped. If anyone using hot

water in your home fits into one of these groups or if there is a local

code or state law requiring a certain temperature water at the hot

water tap, then you must take special precautions. In addition to

using the lowest possible temperature setting that satisfies your hot

water needs, a means such as a *Mixing Valve, shall be used at the

hot water taps used by these people or at the water heater. Mixing

valves are available at plumbing supply or hardware stores. Consult

a Qualified Installer or Service Agency. Follow mixing valve

manufacturer’s instructions for installation of the valves. Before

changing the factory setting on the thermostat, read the “Temperature

Regulation” section in this manual, see Figure 26.

FACTS TO CONSIDER ABOUT THE LOCATION

Carefully choose an indoor location for the new water heater, because

the placement is a very important consideration for the safety of the

occupants in the building and for the most economical use of the

appliance. This water heater is not for use in manufactured

(mobile) homes or outdoor installation.

Whether replacing an old water heater or putting the water heater in a

new location, the following critical points must be observed:

1. Select a location indoors as close as practical to the vent terminal or

location to which the water heater vent piping is going to be connected,

and as centralized with the water piping system as possible.

2. Selected location must provide adequate clearances for servicing

and proper operation of the water heater.

Installation of the water heater must be accomplished in such a manner

that if the tank or any connections should leak, the flow will not cause

damage to the structure. For this reason, it is not advisable to install

the water heater in an attic or upper floor. When such locations cannot

be avoided, a suitable drain pan should be installed under the water

heater. Drain pans are available at your local hardware store. Such

a drain pan must have a clearance of at least 1.0" (2.5cm) greater

than any point on the water heater’s outer jacket and must be piped

to an adequate drain. The pan must not restrict combustion air flow.

For example, if a circular pan is used, it must be a minimum of 27"

(69cm) in diameter. See Figure 1.

Water heater life depends upon water quality, water pressure

and the environment in which the water heater is installed. Water

heaters are sometimes installed in locations where leakage may

result in property damage, even with the use of a drain pan piped

to a drain. However, unanticipated damage can be reduced or

prevented by a leak detector or water shut-off device used in

conjunction with a piped drain pan. These devices are available

from some plumbing supply wholesalers and retailers, and detect

and react to leakage in various ways:

• Sensors mounted in the drain pan that trigger an alarm or turn off

the incoming water to the water heater when leakage is detected.

• Sensors mounted in the drain pan that turn off the water supply

to the entire home when water is detected in the drain pan.

• Water supply shut-off devices that activate based on the water

pressure differential between the cold water and hot water pipes

connected to the water heater.

• Devices that will turn off the gas supply to a gas water heater

while at the same time shutting off its water supply.

INSTALLATIONS IN AREAS WHERE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS

(VAPORS) ARE LIKELY TO BE PRESENT OR STORED

(GARAGES, STORAGE AND UTILITY AREAS, ETC.): Flammable

liquids (such as gasoline, solvents, propane (LP or butane, etc.)

and other substances (such as adhesives, etc.) emit flammable

vapors which can be ignited by a gas water heater’s hot surface

igniter or main burner. The resulting flashback and fire can cause

death or serious burns to anyone in the area.

Also, the water heater must be located and/or protected so it is not

subject to physical damage by a moving vehicle.

LOCATING THE NEW WATER HEATER

This water heater must not be installed directly on carpeting.

Carpeting must be protected by metal or wood panel beneath the

appliance extending beyond the full width and depth of the appliance

by at least 3" (7.6 cm) in any direction, or if the appliance is installed

in an alcove or closet, the entire floor must be covered by the panel.

Failure to heed this warning may result in a fire hazard.

Minimum clearances between the water heater and combustible

construction are 0 inch at the sides and rear, 5.5" (14.0 cm) from the front

and 12" (30.5 cm) from the top. (Standard clearance.) If clearances stated

on the heater differ from standard clearances, install water heater

according to clearances stated on the heater.

Adequate clearance 24" (61.0 cm) for servicing this appliance should

be considered before installation, such as changing the anodes, etc.

A minimum clearance of 5.5" (14.0 cm) must be allowed for access to

replaceable parts such as the thermostats, drain valve and relief valve.

When installing the heater, consideration must be given to proper location.

Location selected should be as close to the wall as practicable and as

centralized with the water piping system as possible.

FIGURE 4.

A gas water heater cannot operate properly without the correct

amount of air for combustion. Do not install in a confined area

such as a closet, unless you provide air as shown in the “Locating

The New Water Heater” section. Never obstruct the flow of

ventilation air. If you have any doubts or questions at all, call your

gas supplier. Failure to provide the proper amount of combustion

air can result in a fire or explosion and cause death, serious bodily

injury, or property damage.

FIGURE 5.

If this water heater will be used in beauty shops, barber shops, cleaning

establishments, or self-service laundries with dry cleaning equipment,

it is imperative that the water heater or water heaters be installed so

that combustion and ventilation air be taken from outside these areas.

Propellants of aerosol sprays and volatile compounds, (cleaners,

chlorine based chemicals, refrigerants, etc.) in addition to being highly

flammable in many cases, will also react to form corrosive hydrochloric

acid when exposed to the combustion products of the water heater.

The results can be hazardous, and also cause product failure.

INSULATION BLANKETS

Insulation blankets are available to the general public for external use

on gas water heaters but are not necessary with these products. The

purpose of an insulation blanket is to reduce the standby heat loss

encountered with storage tank heaters. Your water heater meets or

exceeds the Energy Policy Act standards with respect to insulation and

standby loss requirements, making an insulation blanket unnecessary.

Should you choose to apply an insulation blanket to this heater, you

should follow these instructions (For identification of components

mentioned below, see Figure 1). Failure to follow these instructions

can restrict the air flow required for proper combustion, potentially

resulting in fire, asphyxiation, serious personal injury or death.

•Do not apply insulation to the top of the water heater, as this will

interfere with safe operation of the blower assembly.

•Do not cover the outer door, thermostat or temperature & pressure

relief valve.

•Do not allow insulation to come within 2" (5.1 cm) of the floor to

prevent blockage of combustion air flow to the burner.

•Do not cover the instruction manual. Keep it on the side of the

water heater or nearby for future reference.

•Do obtain new warning and instruction labels from the manufacturer

for placement on the blanket directly over the existing labels.

•Do inspect the insulation blanket frequently to make certain it

does not sag, thereby obstructing combustion air flow.

COMBUSTION AIR AND VENTILATION FOR

APPLIANCES LOCATED IN UNCONFINED SPACES

UNCONFINED SPACE is space whose volume is not less than

50 cubic feet per 1,000 Btu per hour (4.8 cubic meters per kW) of the

aggregate input rating of all appliances installed in that space. Rooms

communicating directly with the space in which the appliances are

installed, through openings not furnished with doors, are considered

a part of the unconfined space.

In unconfined spaces in buildings, infiltration may be adequate to

provide air for combustion, ventilation and dilution of flue gases.

However, in buildings of tight construction (for example, weather

stripping, heavily insulated, caulked, vapor barrier, etc.), additional air

may need to be provided using the methods described in “Combustion

Air and Ventilation for Appliances Located in Confined Spaces.”

COMBUSTION AIR AND VENTILATION FOR

APPLIANCES LOCATED IN CONFINED SPACES

CONFINED SPACE is a space whose volume is less than 50 cubic

feet per 1,000 Btu per hour (4.8 cm per kW) of the aggregate input

rating of all appliances installed in that space.

When drawing combustion air from inside a conventionally

constructed building to a confined space, such a space shall be

provided with two permanent openings. ONE WITHIN 12 INCHES

(30 cm) OF THE ENCLOSURE TOP AND ONE WITHIN 12 INCHES

(30 cm) OF THE ENCLOSURE BOTTOM. Each opening shall have

a free area of one square inch per 1000 Btu/hr (22 cm2/kW) of the

total input of all appliances in the enclosure, but not less than 100

square inches (645 cm2).

If the confined space is within a building of tight construction, air for

combustion and ventilation must be obtained from outdoors. When

directly communicating with the outdoors or communicating through

vertical ducts, two permanent openings, located in the above manner,

shall be provided. Each opening shall have a free area of not less

than one square inch per 4000 Btu/hr (5.5 cm2/kW) of total input of

all appliances in the enclosure. If horizontal ducts are used, each

opening shall have a free area of not less than one square inch per

2000 Btu/hr (11cm2/kW) of the total input of all appliances in the enclosure.

A. ALL AIR FROM INSIDE BUILDINGS: (See Figure 5 and 6)

The confined space shall be provided with two permanent openings

communicating directly with an additional room(s) of sufficient volume

so that the combined volume of all spaces meets the criteria for an

unconfined space. The total input of all gas utilization equipment installed

in the combined space shall be considered in making this determination.

Each opening shall have a minimum free area of one square inch per

1,000 Btu per hour (22 cm2/kW) of the total input rating of all gas utilization

equipment in the confined space, but not less than 100 square inches

(645 cm2). One opening shall commence within 12 inches

(30 cm) of the top and one commencing within 12 inches (30 cm) of

the bottom of the enclosures.

FIGURE 6.

B. ALL AIR FROM OUTDOORS: (See Figures 7, 8 and 9)

The confined space shall be provided with two permanent openings,

one commencing within 12 inches (30 cm) of the top and one

commencing within 12 inches (30 cm) from the bottom of the

enclosure. The openings shall communicate directly, or by ducts,

with the outdoors or spaces (crawl or attic) that freely communicate

with the outdoors.

1. When directly communicating with the outdoors, each opening shall

have a minimum free area of 1 square inch per 4,000 Btu per hour

(5.5 cm2/kW) of total input rating of all equipment in the enclosure,

see Figure 7.

FIGURE 7.

2. When communicating with the outdoors through vertical ducts,

each opening shall have a minimum free area of 1 square inch

per 4,000 Btu per hour (5.5 cm2/kW) of total input rating of all

equipment in the enclosure, see Figure 8.

3. When communicating with the outdoors through horizontal

ducts, each opening shall have a minimum free area of 1 square

inch per 2,000 Btu per hour (11 cm2/kW)) of total input rating of

all equipment in the enclosure, see Figure 9.

FIGURE 8.

4. When ducts are used, they shall be of the same cross-sectional

area as the free area of the openings to which they connect.

The minimum short side dimension of rectangular air ducts shall

not be less than 3 inches (7.6 cm), see Figure 9.

FIGURE 9.

5. Louvers and Grilles: In calculating free area, consideration shall be

given to the blocking effect of louvers, grilles or screens protecting

openings. Screens used shall not be smaller than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm)

mesh. If the free area through a design of louver or grille is known, it

should be used in calculating the size opening required to provide the

free area specified. If the design and free area is not known, it may be

assumed that wood louvers will be 20-25 percent free area and metal

louvers and grilles will have 60-75 percent free area. Louvers and grilles

shall be fixed in the open position or interlocked with the equipment so

that they are opened automatically during equipment operation.

6. Special Conditions Created by Mechanical Exhausting or Fireplaces:

operation of exhaust fans, ventilation systems, clothes dryers or

fireplaces may create conditions requiring special attention to avoid

unsatisfactory operation of installed gas utilization equipment.

Water supply systems may, because of such events as high line pressure,

frequent cut-offs, the effects of water hammer among others, have

installed devices such as pressure reducing valves, check valves, back

flow preventers, etc. to control these types of problems. When these

devices are not equipped with an internal by-pass, and no other measures

are taken, the devices cause the water system to be closed. As water is

heated, it expands (thermal expansion) and closed systems do not allow

for the expansion of heated water.

The water within the water heater tank expands as it is heated and increases

the pressure of the water system. If the relieving point of the water heater’s

temperature-pressure relief valve is reached, the valve will relieve the

excess pressure. The temperature-pressure relief valve is not intended

for the constant relief of thermal expansion. This is an unacceptable

condition and must be corrected.

It is recommended that any devices installed which could create a closed

system have a by-pass and/or the system have an expansion tank to

relieve the pressure built by thermal expansion in the water system.

Expansion tanks are available for ordering through a local plumbing

contractor. Contact the local water supplier and/or a service agency for

assistance in controlling these situations.

NOTE: To protect against untimely corrosion of hot and cold

water fittings, it is strongly recommended that di-electric unions

or couplings be installed on this water heater when connected

to copper pipe.

All gas piping must comply with local codes and ordinances or with the National

Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/ NFPA-54) or the Natural Gas and Propane

Installation Code (CAN/CSA B149.1) whichever applies. Copper and brass

tubing and fittings (except tin lined copper tubing) shall not be used.

FIGURE 10.

CHEMICAL VAPOR CORROSION

CORROSION OF THE FLUEWAYS AND VENT SYSTEM MAY OCCUR IF

AIR FOR COMBUSTION CONTAINS CERTAIN CHEMICAL VAPORS. SUCH

CORROSION MAY RESULT IN FAILURE AND RISK OF ASPHYXIATION.

Spray can propellants, cleaning solvents, refrigerator and air

conditioning refrigerants, swimming pool chemicals, calcium and

sodium chloride (water softener salt), waxes, and process chemicals

are typical compounds which are potentially corrosive.

Do not store products of this sort near the heater. Also, air which is

brought in contact with the heater should not contain any of these

chemicals. If necessary, uncontaminated air should be obtained from

remote or outside sources. The limited warranty is voided when failure

of water heater is due to a corrosive atmosphere. (See limited warranty

for complete terms and conditions).

WATER PIPING

HOTTER WATER CAN SCALD:

Water heaters are intended to produce hot water. Water heated to a

temperature which will satisfy space heating, clothes washing, dish

washing, cleaning and other sanitizing needs can scald and permanently

injure you upon contact. Some people are more likely to be permanently

injured by hot water than others. These include the elderly, children, the

infirm, or physically/mentally handicapped. If anyone using hot water in

your home fits into one of these groups or if there is a local code or

state law requiring a certain temperature water at the hot water tap,

then you must take special precautions. In addition to using the lowest

possible temperature setting that satisfies your hot water needs, a means

such as a *mixing valve, shall be used at the hot water taps used by

these people or at the water heater, see Figure 2. Valves for reducing

point of use temperature by mixing cold and hot water are also available:

Consult a Qualified Installer or Service Agency. Follow manufacturer’s

instructions for installation of the valves. Before changing the factory

setting on the thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section

in this manual.

This water heater shall not be connected to any heating systems or

component(s) used with a non-potable water heating appliance.

All piping components connected to this unit for space heating applications

shall be suitable for use with potable water.

Toxic chemicals, such as those used for boiler treatment shall not be

introduced into this system.

When the system requires water for space heating at temperatures higher

than required for domestic water purposes, a tempering valve must be

installed. Please refer to Figure 2 for suggested piping arrangement.

INSTALLING THE NEW WATER HEATER

Figure 10 shows the typical attachment of the water piping to the

water heater. The water heater is equipped with 3/4 inch NPT

water connections.

NOTE: If using copper tubing, solder tubing to an adapter before

attaching the adapter to the water heater connections. Do not

solder the water lines directly to the water heater connections.

It will harm the dip tube and damage the tank.

T & P Valve and Pipe Insulation (if supplied)

Remove insulation for T & P valve and pipe connections from carton.

FIGURE 11.

Fit pipe insulation over the incoming cold water line and the hot water

line. Make sure that the insulation is against the top cover of the

heater.Fit T & P valve insulation over valve. Make sure that the

insulation does not interfere with the lever of the T & P valve.

Secure all insulation using tape.

TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

This heater is provided with a properly certified combination

temperature - pressure relief valve by the manufacturer.

The valve is certified by a nationally recognized testing laboratory

that maintains periodic inspection of production of listed equipment

of materials as meeting the requirements for Relief Valves and

Automatic Gas Shut-off Devices for Hot Water Supply Systems, ANSI

Z21.22 • CSA 4.4, and the code requirements of ASME.

If replaced, the valve must meet the requirements of local codes, but

not less than a combination temperature and pressure relief valve

certified as indicated in the above paragraph.

The valve must be marked with a maximum set pressure not to exceed

the marked hydrostatic working pressure of the water heater

(150 psi = 1,035 kPa) and a discharge capacity not less than the

water heater input rate as shown on the model rating plate.

For safe operation of the water heater, the relief valve must not be

removed from its designated opening nor plugged.

The temperature-pressure relief valve must be installed directly into

the fitting of the water heater designed for the relief valve. Position

the valve downward and provide tubing so that any discharge will exit

only within 6 inches (15.2 cm) above, or at any distance below the

structural floor. Be certain that no contact is made with any live

electrical part. The discharge opening must not be blocked or reduced

in size under any circumstances. Excessive length, over 30 feet (9.14

m), or use of more than four elbows can cause restriction and reduce

the discharge capacity of the valve, see Figures 10 or 14.

No valve or other obstruction is to be placed between the relief valve

and the tank. Do not connect tubing directly to discharge drain unless

a 6" (15.2 cm) air gap is provided. To prevent bodily injury, hazard to

life, or property damage, the relief valve must be allowed to discharge

water in quantities should circumstances demand. If the discharge

pipe is not connected to a drain or other suitable means, the water

flow may cause property damage.

The Discharge Pipe:

• Shall not be smaller in size than the outlet pipe size of the valve, or

have any reducing couplings or other restrictions.

• Shall not be plugged or blocked.

• Shall be of material listed for hot water distribution.

• Shall be installed so as to allow complete drainage of both the

temperature-pressure relief valve, and the discharge pipe.

• Shall terminate at an adequate drain.

• Shall not have any valve between the relief valve and tank.

The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated at least

once a year. Caution should be taken to ensure that (1) no one is in front

of or around the outlet of the temperature-pressure relief valve discharge

line, and (2) the water manually discharged will not cause any bodily

injury or property damage because the water may be extremely hot.

If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and

continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet to

the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the

temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.

GAS PIPING

Make sure the gas supplied is the same type listed on the model rating

plate. The inlet gas pressure must not exceed 14 inch water column (3.5

kPa) for natural and propane gas (L.P.). The minimum inlet gas pressure

shown on the rating plate is that which will permit firing at rated input.

All gas piping must comply with local codes and ordinances or with the

National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/ NFPA-54) or the Natural Gas and

Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA B149.1) whichever applies. Copper

or brass tubing and fittings (except tin lined copper tubing) shall not be used.

If the gas control valve is subjected to pressures exceeding 1/2 psi

(3.5 kPa), the damage to the gas control valve could result in a fire

or explosion from leaking gas.

If the main gas line Shut-off serving all gas appliances is used, also

turn “off” the gas at each appliance. Leave all gas appliances shut

“off” until the water heater installation is complete.

A gas line of sufficient size must be run to the water heater. Consult

the current edition of National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/NFPA

54) or the Natural Gas and Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA

B149.1) and your gas supplier concerning pipe size.

There must be:

• A readily accessible manual shut off valve in the gas supply line

serving the water heater, and

• A drip leg (sediment trap) ahead of the gas control valve to help

prevent dirt and foreign materials from entering the gas control valve.

• A flexible gas connector or a ground joint union between the shut

off valve and control valve to permit servicing of the unit.

Be sure to check all the gas piping for leaks before lighting the water

heater. Use a soapy water solution, not a match or open flame.

Rinse off soapy solution and wipe dry.

When installed at elevations above 2,000 feet (610 meters) for

standard models or 4,500 feet (1,370m) for high altitude models, input

rating should be reduced at the rate of 4 percent for each 1,000 feet

(305 meters) above sea level which requires replacement of the burner

orifice in accordance with National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/

NFPA 54) or the Natural Gas and Propane Installation Code (CAN/

CSA B149.1). Contact your local gas supplier for further information.

Failure to replace the standard orifice with a high altitude orifice when

installed could result in improper and inefficient operation of the

appliance, producing carbon monoxide gas in excess of safe limits,

which could result in serious injury or death. Contact your gas supplier

for any specific changes which may be required in your area.

Use pipe joint compound or teflon tape marked as being resistant to

the action of petroleum [Propane (L.P.)] gases.

The appliance and its gas connection must be leak tested before

placing the appliance in operation.

The appliance and its individual Shut-off valve shall be disconnected

from the gas supply piping system during any pressure testing of

that system at test pressures in excess of 1/2 pound per square

inch (3.5 kPa). It shall be isolated from the gas supply piping system

by closing its individual manual Shut-off valve during any pressure

testing of the gas supply piping system at test pressures equal to or

less than 1/2 pound per square inch (3.5 kPa).

Connecting the gas piping to the gas control valve of the water heater can be

accomplished by either of the two methods shown in Figures 12 and 13.

FIGURE 12. GAS PIPING WITH

FLEXIBLE CONNECTOR.

FIGURE 13. GAS PIPING WITH ALL

BLACK IRON PIPE TO GAS CONTROL.

SEDIMENT TRAPS

A sediment trap shall be installed as close to the inlet of the water

heater as practical at the time of water heater installation. The

sediment trap shall be either a tee fitting with a capped nipple in the

bottom outlet or other device recognized as an effective sediment

trap. If a tee fitting is used, it shall be installed in conformance with

one of the methods of installation shown in Figures 12 and 13.

Contaminants in the gas lines may cause improper operation of the

gas control valve that may result in fire or explosion. Before attaching

the gas line be sure that all gas pipe is clean on the inside. To trap

any dirt or foreign material in the gas supply line, a drip leg

(sometimes called a sediment trap) must be incorporated in the

piping. The drip leg must be readily accessible. Install in accordance

with the “Gas Piping” section. Refer to the current edition of the

National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1/NFPA 54) or the Natural

Gas and Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA B149.1).

FIGURE 14.

FILLING THE WATER HEATER

Never use this water heater unless it is completely full of water. To prevent

damage to the tank, the tank must be filled with water. Water must flow

from the hot water faucet before turning “ON” gas to the water heater.

To fill the water heater with water:

1. Close the water heater drain valve by turning the handle to the right

(clockwise). The drain valve is on the lower front of the water heater.

2. Open the cold water supply valve to the water heater.

NOTE: The cold water supply valve must be left open when

the water heater is in use.

3. To insure complete filling of the tank, allow air to exit by opening the

nearest hot water faucet. Allow water to run until a constant flow is

obtained. This will let air out of the water heater and the piping.

4. Check all water piping and connections for leaks. Repair as needed.

VENT PIPE ASSEMBLY

There are three parts of the vent pipe assembly that connect the water

heater exhaust (located on the lower back side of the water heater) to

the inlet of the blower assembly (mounted on top of the water heater) as

shown in Figure 1. These parts will need to be assembled according to

the instructions in the VENT PIPE PREPARATION section of this manual.

These PVC parts should be assembled with ASTM D-2564 grade cement.

Assemble Vent Pipe Assemblies #1, #2 and #3 (See Figure 1) prior

to cementing. The preferred orientation of Vent Pipe Assembly #1

(Condensate U-Assembly) is shown in Figure 16. However this

assembly may be rotated to a different orientation as needed for the

specific installation requirements. Note the rotational orientation of

each part by marking a line several inches long across the joints.The

long tube of Vent Pipe Assembly #2 should be approximately vertical.

If it is found that either of the two pieces of pipe in Vent Pipe Assembly

#2 are too long for proper fit-up, then remove as little material as

possible to improve the fit-up. Keep in mind that the pipes will insert

slightly further into the elbows when cement is applied as it acts as

a lubricating agent. The vertical distance from the bottom of the

Condensate U-Assembly to the floor that supports the water heater

should be approximately 0.25" (0.64 cm), see Figure 16. Disassemble

the parts and cement back together using the alignment marks. After

the cement dries, attach the assembly to the blower and the water

heater exhaust using the supplied rubber boots and hose clamps.

A condensate trap is incorporated in the bottom of this vent pipe assembly.

See the CONDENSATE section of this manual for further details.

VENTING

VENT PIPE TERMINATION

The first step is to determine where the vent pipe will terminate. See

Figures 15, 20 and 21. The vent may terminate through a sidewall

as shown in Figure 20 or through the roof as shown in Figure 21.

The vent system must terminate so that proper clearances are

maintained as cited in local codes or the current edition of the National

Fuel Gas Code, (ANSI Z223.1, 12.9.1 through 12.9.4) or the Natural

Gas and Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA-B149.1).

Instructions on proper installation through a sidewall are provided

in Figure 15.

Plan the vent system layout so that proper clearances are

maintained from plumbing and wiring.

Vent pipes serving power vented appliances are classified by

building codes as "vent connectors". Required clearances from

combustible materials must be provided in accordance with

information in this manual under LOCATING THE NEW WATER

HEATER and INSTALLING THE WATER HEATER, and with the

National Fuel Gas Code and local codes.

FIGURE 15

U.S. HORIZONTAL VENT CLEARANCES

CANADIAN HORIZONTAL VENT CLEARANCES

WARNING

VENT HOOD(S) MAY BE

EXTREMELY HOT

DURING OPERATION.

PLANNING THE VENT SYSTEM

Plan the route of the vent system from the discharge of the blower

to the planned location of the vent terminal.

1. Layout total vent system to use a minimum of vent pipe and elbows.

2. This water heater is capable of venting flue gases equivalent to

25' (7.6 m) of 2" pipe, 65' (19.8 m) of 3" pipe, or 128' (39.0 m) of

4" pipe as listed in Table 1.

TABLE 1

Number of 2" Maximum 3" Maximum 4" Maximum

90° Elbows Pipe - ft. (m) Pipe - ft. (m) Pipe - ft. (m)

1 20 (6.1) 60 (18.3) 120 (36.6)

2 15 (4.6) 55 (16.8) 112 (34.1)

3 10 (3.0) 50 (15.2) 104 (31.7)

4 -- 45 (13.7) 96 (29.3)

5 -- 40 (12.2) 88 (26.8)

6 -- 35 (10.7) 80 (24.3)

The minimum vent lengths for each of the pipe sizes is one 90° on

top of the unit plus 2' (61 cm) of straight pipe and the appropriate

termination.

NOTE: The equivalent feet (m) of pipe listed above are exclusive

of the termination. That is, the termination, with an installed

screen, is assumed to be in the system and the remainder of the

system must not exceed the lengths discussed above.

3. The blower discharge adapter is made to accept only straight

sections of 2" pipe. To start, a minimum of 2 inches (5.1 cm) of

2" pipe must be attached to the blower discharge, see Figure 17.

If using 2" inch vent pipe:

A minimum of 2 inches (5.1 cm) must be attached to the blower

before the first elbow. After the first elbow add the additional

venting required for the installation. The total system cannot

exceed the lengths discussed above, where each elbow is

equal to 5 feet (1.5 m) of straight pipe.

If using 3" or 4" inch vent pipe:

Two inches (5.1 cm) of pipe must be attached to the blower discharge

before adding a reducer to acquire the desired pipe diameter. An

appropriately sized 45 degree elbow (supplied locally-a schedule 40

DWV) vent terminal must be obtained with an equivalent screen

(supplied in vent kit). The total system cannot exceed the equivalent

pipe lengths discussed above where each elbow is equal to 5 feet

(1.5 m) of straight pipe (3" vent pipe) or 8 feet (2.4 m) of straight pipe

(4" vent pipe).

NOTE: This unit can be vented with PVC pipe materials (Cellular

Core ASTM-F891; DWV ASTM-D2665 or CSA B181.2; Schedule

40, 80, 120 ASTM-D1785 or CSA B137.3; or SDR Series ASTM-

D2241 or CSA B137.3), CPVC pipe materials (CPVC41 ASTM-

D2846 or CSA B137.6; Schedule 40, 80 ASTM-F441 or CSA

B137.6; or SDR Series ASTM-F442), ABS pipe materials

(Schedule 40 DWV ASTM-D2661 or CSA B181.1 or Schedule

40 DWV Cellular Core ASTM-F628). The fittings, other than the

TERMINATION should be equivalent to PVC-DWV fittings

meeting ASTM D-2665 (Use CPVC fittings, ASTM F-438 for CPVC

pipe and ABS fittings, ASTM D-2661/3311 for ABS pipe). If CPVC

or ABS pipe and fittings are used, then the proper cement must

be used for all joints, including joining the pipe to the Termination

(PVC Material). If local codes do not allow the use of the PVC

termination when a material other than PVC is used for venting,

then an equivalent fitting of that material may be substituted if

the screen in the PVC terminal is removed and inserted into the

new fitting.

PVC Materials should use ASTM D-2564 Grade Cement; CPVC

Materials should use ASTM F-493 Grade Cement and ABS

Materials should use ASTM D-2235 Grade Cement.

If the water heater is being installed as a replacement for an existing

power vented heater in pre-existing venting, a thorough inspection

of the existing venting system must be performed prior to any

installation work. Verify that the correct material as detailed above

has been used, and that the minimum or maximum vent lengths

and terminal location as detailed in this manual have been met.

Carefully inspect the entire venting system for any signs of cracks

or fractures, particularly at the joints between elbows and other

fittings and the straight runs of vent pipe. Check the system for

signs of sagging or other stresses in the joints as a result of

misalignment of any components in the system. If any of these

conditions are found, they must be corrected in accordance with

the venting instructions in this manual before completing the

installation and putting the water heater into service.

NOTE: A. For water heaters in locations with high ambient

temperatures (above 100°F) it is recommended that CPVC or

ABS pipe and fittings be used. B. A 22.5 degree elbow (2" vent

pipe) or a 45 degree elbow (3" and 4" vent pipe) with an installed

screen VENT TERMINAL must be used in all cases.

4. There will be some installations where condensate will be formed

in the horizontal runs of the vent system. This condensate will

run into the condensate boot attached to the blower and out the

fitting. The water heater is shipped with condensate hose that

attaches to the fitting on the condensate boot. No other Tee or

fitting is required. See Figures 17, 20 and 21.

CONDENSATE

This water heater is a condensing unit and requires a drain to be

located in close proximity to allow the condensate to drain safely. The

condensate drains from the unit at the exhaust tee located at the

bottom of the unit (see figure 16) and from two places on the blower

assembly (see figure 17). Condensate from this water heater is mildly

acidic. Please note that some local codes require that condensate is

treated by using a pH neutralizing filter prior to disposal.

NOTE: It is important that the condensate hose on the bottom of the

unit is not installed elevated above the clamp that is secured to the side

of the jacket, see figure 16. This must be true for the entire length of the

hose from the clamp to the exit into an appropriate drain. If these

instructions are not followed or if the condensate hose is blocked, water

will spill from the condensate trap. As with every water heater installation,

a drain pan should be used to prevent water damage to the surrounding

area. If necessary, a condensate pump with an incorporated reservoir

may be used to pump the water to an appropriate drain. To avoid

condensate spillage, select a pump with an overflow switch.

Caution must be used to ensure that the drain is free and clear of

debris and will not allow backflow through the condensate hose.

Consideration must be given to avoid freezing of the condensate lines

which could result in excessive build up of condensate inside the water

heater. Waterproof heat tape may be required to prevent freezing of the

condensate lines. Please ensure that the outlet of the condensate drain

does not create a slippery condition which could lead to personal injury.

The condensate trap may be primed by filling the CONDENSATE

U-ASSEMBLY with tap water using the supplied hose while the water

heater is not operating. The system is fully primed when the hose is

lowered below the hose clamp on the side of the water heater and

water begins to flow out of the hose. In most installations the water

heater will self-prime the condensate trap during the first full heat-

up cycle. If a sound of air bubbling through water (gurgling) is heard

while the blower is operating after the first heat-up cycle, then turn

the unit off and contact your plumber or service representative.

If these instructions are not followed, the condensate build-up will

block the exhaust outlet, which will cause improper operation.

CONDENSATE SYSTEM - FIGURE 16

Condensate is likely to form in the venting system attached to this water

heater. The vent pipe should be sloped downward away from the blower

assembly (not less than 1/8" (3.2 mm) nor greater than 1/2" (12.7 mm)

per foot (30 cm) maximum). If the vent piping is vented level or sloped

upwards away from the blower assembly, then adequate means for

draining and disposing of the condensate needs to be made by the

installer. In either case, a 3/8" drain hose should be connected to the

built-in drain port. Prior to operating the water heater, make sure the

removable cap is installed on the second drain port, see Figure 17.

BLOWER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION

1. This power vented water heater comes with the blower assembly installed.

2. After the unit is set in place, make sure the blower assembly is

still mounted securely. Also make sure that one of the drain

ports of the rubber boot vent adapter is capped off. Lastly, make

sure there is no damage to the blower.

3. Condensate drains from two locations on the blower assembly as

shown in figure 17. A condensate hose must be secured to form a

"trap" as shown in figure 17 for these condensate drain connections.

These two hoses may be connected together. The hose(s) should

be routed to a suitable drain. A fitting that may be used to join the

two hoses from the blower assembly is included in a supplied kit.

FIGURE 17.

4. Make sure there is no packing material in the inlet or discharge

of the blower.

5. Make sure that the plastic tubing is still attached from the air

pressure switch to the port on the blower housing. Make sure

the plastic tubing is not folded anywhere between the pressure

switch and the blower housing.

6. Make sure the ON/OFF switch is in the OFF position and that

the outer harness is connected from the blower control box to

the connector on the bottom side of the gas valve.

7. If the outer harness is not factory installed, make sure the ON/

OFF switch is in the OFF position and then connect the outer

harness from the blower control box to the connector on the

bottom side of the gas valve.

8. Do not plug in power cord until vent system is completely installed.

The Power Vent operates on 110-120 Vac. therefore a grounded

outlet must be within reach of the 6 foot (1.8 m) flexible power

cord supplied with the vent (See Figure 1). The power cord

supplied may be used on a unit only where local codes permit.

If local codes do not permit use of flexible power supply cord:

A. Make sure the unit is unplugged from the wall outlet. Remove

the plastic top cap. Remove screws and open panel on the

front of the control box on the blower.

B. Cut the flexible power cord, leaving enough to be able to make

connections. Remove the strain relief fitting from the box.

C. Install a suitable conduit fitting inside the enclosure.

D. Splice field wiring into existing wiring using code authorized

method (wire nuts, etc).

E. Be certain that neutral and line connections are not reversed

when making these connections.

F. Ground heater properly. This water heater must be grounded

in accordance with the National Electrical Code NFPA 70 or

the Canadian Electrical Code C22.1 and/or local codes. These

must be followed in all cases.

The water heater must be connected to a grounded metal,

permanent wiring system; or an equipment grounding

conductor must be run with the circuit conductors and

connected to the equipment grounding terminal or lead on

the water heater, see Figure 19.

G. Close the panel on the control box. Make sure that the access

panel is secured shut.

9. The blower discharge boot is made to accept only straight sections

of 2" pipe. To start off with an elbow, a short section of the furnished

pipe, a minimum of 2 inches (5.1 cm), must be cut and glued into

the end of the elbow that will mount on the discharge boot.

INSTALLATION OF VENT SYSTEM

Before beginning installation of piping system thoroughly read the

section of this manual VENT PIPE PREPARATION.

If you are installing your system so that it vents through roof, please

refer to section titled INSTALLATION OF VERTICAL VENT SYSTEM.

VENT TERMINAL INSTALLATION, SIDEWALL

1. Install the vent terminal by using the cover plate as a template to

mark the hole for the vent pipe to pass through the wall. BEWARE

OF CONCEALED WIRING AND PIPING INSIDE THE WALL.

CAUTION

LABEL ALL WIRES PRIOR TO DISCONNECTION WHEN SERVICING CONTROLS. WIRING ERRORS CAN CAUSE IMPROPER AND

DANGEROUS OPERATION. VERIFY PROPER OPERATION AFTER SERVICING.

POWER VENT WIRING SCHEMATIC - FIGURE 19.

2. If the Vent Terminal is being installed on the outside of a finished wall, it

may be easier to mark both the inside and outside wall. Align the holes

by drilling a hole through the center of the template from the inside

through to the outside. The template can now be positioned on the

outside wall using the drilled hole as a centering point for the template.

3. A) MASONRY SIDE WALLS

Chisel an opening approximately one half inch (1.3 cm) larger

than the marked circle.

B) WOODEN SIDE WALLS

Drill a pilot hole approximately one quarter inch (0.64 cm) outside of

the marked circle. This pilot hole is used as a starting point for a

saws-all or sabre saw blade. Cut around the marked circle staying

approximately one quarter inch (0.64 cm) outside of the line. (This

will allow the vent to easily slide through the opening. The resulting

gap will be covered up by the Vent Terminal cover plate.) Repeat this

step on inside wall if necessary.

SEQUENCE OF INSTALLATIONS, FIGURE 18

Cut a length of PVC pipe about 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) longer than the wall

thickness at the opening. Glue the vent terminal to this section of pipe.

Slide the wall plate over the pipe to stop against the vent terminal. Place a

bead of caulking (not supplied) around the gap between the pipe and

cover plate. Apply enough to fill some of the gap between the pipe and

wall. Place some of the caulking on the back of the plate to hold it against

the wall after installation. If the vent pipe is installed up to the wall, with a

coupling on the end against the wall opening, the pipe with the vent terminal

can be prepared for gluing before inserting through the wall. Slide the pipe

through the wall and insert into the coupling on the other side of the wall,

making sure that the vent terminal ends up pointed in the correct position,

see Figure 18.

VENT TERMINATION - FIGURE 18.

INSTALLATION OF VENT SYSTEM, SIDEWALL

With the route of the venting system and selection of materials completed,

as discussed in the section of this manual titled PLANNING THE VENT

SYSTEM, the through the wall vent terminal in place and the first section

of piping, up to first elbow, installed at the blower it is time to complete

the installation of the venting system for the sidewall installation.

FIGURE 20

Before completing the installation of the venting system be sure to read

the sections of this manual discussing the proper method of cutting

and cementing PVC pipe and fittings: VENT PIPE PREPARATION.

It is recommended that the completion of the venting system start at

the blower assembly and run to the coupling on the inside wall of

the vent terminal, Figure18.

The vent system piping should be supported every 5 feet (1.5 m)

of vertical run and every 3 feet (91 cm) of horizontal run. All piping

and fittings must be joined by the proper procedures as described

under: VENT PIPE PREPARATION.

INSTALLATION OF VERTICAL VENT SYSTEM

A proper flashing or "BOOT" should be used to seal the pipe where

it exits the roof. The total vent system should not exceed the

equivalent feet of pipe as listed in Table 1.

Provide support for all pipe protruding through the roof. All piping

should be properly secured. The vent system piping should be

supported every 5 feet (1.5 m) of vertical run and every 3 feet (91

cm) of horizontal run. All piping and fittings must be joined by the

proper procedures as described under: VENT PIPE

PREPARATION.

FIGURE 21

IMPORTANT

The vent system must terminate so that proper clearances are

maintained as cited in local codes or the current edition of the

National Fuel Gas Code (ANSI Z223.1) or the Natural Gas and

Propane Installation Code (CAN/CSA-B149.1) and as listed below:

1. Vent Termination must extend a minimum of 18 inches (46 cm) above

roof or 18 inches (46 cm) above the anticipated snow level to prevent

blockage of the vent termination, as shown in Figures 20 and 21.

2. The venting system shall terminate at least four (4) feet (1.2 m)

from or one (1) foot (30 cm) above any gable, dormer or other

roof structure with building interior access; i.e., vent, window, etc.

3. The venting system shall terminate three (3) feet (91 cm)

above any forced air inlet located within ten feet (3.0 m).

VENT ATTENUATION ASSEMBLY

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

The Vent Attenuation Assembly (VAA) is designed to provide a

reduction in fan noise created in the blower wheel. This installation of

this VAA is optional. Review directions thoroughly prior to installing

the new VAA. Please contact the manufacturer of the water heater as

shown in the instruction manual with any questions or for additional

product support.

VENT ATTENUATION ASSEMBLY KIT PARTS LIST

The kit consists of the following items. If a part is missing, use the

contact information in the instruction manual to acquire missing

component(s).

• vent attenuation assembly

• flexible tubing

• hose barb

• hex plug (installed on VAA)

• instruction sheet

VENT ATTENUATION ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION

The VAA is designed for both vertical and horizontal installations. The

vertical installation does not require the additional hose barb and flexible

tubing. However, the horizontal installation will require the hose barb

and flexible tubing to release condensate buildup from the VAA. See

instructions and diagrams that follow for a more detailed description.

Vertical VAA Installations (Recommended)

1. The VAA is designed to accept two inch PVC pipe into the adapters

on both ends. The VAA can be installed to the piping from either side

(there is no specific inlet or outlet). For optimum performance, install

VAA as close as possible to the blower assembly.

2. Use standard PVC cement (not included with kit) and glue the two

inch PVC pipe coming from the blower into the VAA.

3. Perform the same sequence on the PVC pipe coming from the

exhaust side (vent terminal side) of the VAA.

4. Make sure the VAA and vent pipe is supported securely to a permanent

fixture (stud or wall). Use standard support straps (not supplied with

kit) that may be found at a local hardware store. Failure to properly

support the VAA and the surrounding vent pipe could create a

hazardous situation. DO NOT puncture any surface of the VAA.

5. Confirm that the hex plug is securely installed in the 1/2" fitting

found on the center of the VAA pipe. It is imperative that the plug

is secure and air tight to prevent any combustion gases escaping

into the room. If the plug is not securely tightened, remove and

reinstall using Teflon tape on the threads. Once installed along

with the rest of the vent configuration, make sure to operate the

unit through at least one heat up cycle to ensure there is no leakage

around the plug or any joints of the VAA or vent pipe system.

FIGURE 22: Typical Vertical Installation

Horizontal VAA Installations

1. The VAA is designed to accept two inch PVC pipe into the adapters on

both ends. The VAA can be installed to the piping from either side

(there is no specific inlet or outlet). For optimum performance, install

VAA as close as possible to the blower assembly.

2. Use standard PVC cement (not included with kit) and glue the two

inch PVC pipe coming from the blower into the VAA. Make sure

the 1/2" fitting is on the bottom side of the VAA. This will be used

to run the condensate hose to a suitable drain. See typical vent

installation in Figure 23.

3. Perform the same sequence on the PVC pipe coming from the

exhaust side (vent terminal side) of the VAA.

4. Make sure the VAA and vent pipe is supported securely to a permanent

fixture (stud or wall). Use standard support straps (not supplied with

kit) that may be found at a local hardware store. Failure to properly

support the VAA and the surrounding vent pipe could create a

hazardous situation. DO NOT puncture any surface of theVAA.

5. Remove hex plug from the center pipe of the VAA. Locate the

hose barb and install into the 1/2" fitting on the center of the VAA.

Using Teflon tape on the threads, install hose barb into 1/2" fitting

securely. It is imperative that the hose barb is secure and tight to

prevent any combustion gases escaping into the room.

6. Locate flexible tubing. Slide one end of tube over the hose barb

located on the center pipe of the VAA. The ridges on the hose

barb should prevent the tube from sliding off, however, to ensure

there are no leaks and possible dislocation from hose barb, use a

wire tie or hose clamp (not supplied with kit) and secure.

7. Take the other end of the flexible tubing and form an 8 inch (20

cm) diameter circle approximately 3 feet (91 cm) down from the

hose barb located in the VAA. To ensure that the circle (loop)

maintains its shape, use two wire ties (not supplied with kit) to

secure it.

8. Take the end of the tube at the bottom of the floor and route it to

a suitable drain. This will provide an area where the condensate

can drain without affecting the area around the appliance.

9. Once installed along with the rest of the vent configuration,

make sure to operate the unit through at least one heat up

cycle to ensure there is no leakage around the hose barb or

any joints of the VAA or vent pipe system.

FIGURE 23: Typical Horizontal Installation

Installation for VAA with 3 & 4 inch Pipe for Vertical Vent

Some applications may require the use of 3 or 4 inch vent pipe for

longer vent lengths. Please refer to the Figure 24 as you review

these instructions. Refer back to the vertical VAA installation steps

but with the following changes to the vent construction.

3 inch vent (Vertical VAA Installations)

The VAA is designed to accommodate only 2 inch vent pipe. The

installer must use 2 inch vent pipe between the blower assembly

and the inlet into the VAA. On the outlet side of the VAA, a short run

of 2 inch vent pipe is required. Each of the short pieces of 2 inch

pipe entering and exiting the VAA must not exceed 6 inches (15 cm)

in length. From this point on, a 2 inch to 3 inch adapter may be

used. From the 2 inch to 3 inch adapter, the installer may use up to

65 equivalent feet (19.8 m) of pipe, see Figure 24 for typical

installation.

4 inch vent (Vertical VAA Installations)

The VAA is designed to accommodate only 2 inch vent pipe. The

installer must use 2 inch vent pipe between the blower assembly

and the inlet into the VAA. On the outlet side of the VAA, a short run

of 2 inch vent pipe is required. Each of the short pieces of 2 inch

pipe entering and exiting the VAA must not exceed 6 inches (15 cm)

in length. From this point on, a 2 inch to 4 inch adapter may be

used. From the 2 inch to 4 inch adapter, the installer may use up to

128 equivalent feet (39.0 m) of pipe, see Figure 24 for typical

installation.

Remember to operate the unit for at least one heat cycle to

ensure there are no air leaks in the vent joints of the VAA and

the vent pipe system. Air leaks will allow flue gas by-products

to disseminate into the room creating an unsafe environment

and could cause illness, asphyxiation and/or even death.

FIGURE 24: Typical Installation for Vertical Vent with 3 or 4 inch Pipe

Installation of VAA with 3 & 4 inch Pipe for Horizontal Vent

Some applications may require the use of 3 or 4 inch vent pipe for longer

vent lengths. Please refer to the Figure 25 as you review these instructions.

Refer back to the horizontal VAA installation steps but with the following

changes to the vent construction.

3 inch vent (Horizontal VAA Installations)

The VAA is designed to accommodate only 2 inch vent pipe. The

installer must use 2 inch vent pipe between the blower assembly and

the inlet into the VAA. On the outlet side of the VAA, a short run of 2

inch vent pipe is required. From this point on, a 2 inch to 3 inch adapter

may be used. From the 2 inch to 3 inch adapter, the installer may use

up to 52 equivalent feet (15.8 m) of pipe. This is 8 equivalent feet (2.4

m) less than the original 60 equivalent feet (18.3 m) specified with

one elbow due to the 2 inch elbow instead of a 3 inch elbow required

for the vent from the blower to the inlet of the VAA, see Figure 25 for

typical installation.

4 inch vent (Horizontal VAA Installations)

The VAA is designed to accommodate only 2 inch vent pipe. The installer

must use 2 inch vent pipe between the blower assembly and the inlet into

the VAA. On the outlet side of the VAA a short run of 2 inch vent pipe is

required. From this point on, a 2 inch to 4 inch adapter may be used. From

the 2 inch to 4 inch adapter, the installer may use up to 102 equivalent feet

(31.1 m) of pipe. This is 18 equivalent feet (5.5 m) less than the original

120 equivalent feet (36.6 m) specified with one elbow due to the 2 inch

elbow instead of a 4 inch elbow required for the vent from the blower to

the inlet of the VAA, see Figure 25 for typical installation.

Remember to operate the unit for at least one heat cycle to ensure

there are no air leaks in the vent joints of the VAA and the vent pipe

system. Air leaks will allow flue gas by-products to disseminate into

the room creating an unsafe environment and could cause illness,

asphyxiation and/or even death.

FIGURE 25: Typical Installation for Horizontal Vent with 3 or 4 inch

VENT PIPE PREPARATION

1. INITIAL PREPARATION

A. Make sure the solvent cement you are planning to use is

designed for the specific application you are attempting.

B. Know the physical and chemical characteristics and limitations of

the PVC and CPVC piping materials that you are about to use.

C. Know the reputation of your manufacturer and their products.

D. Know your own qualifications or those of your contractor. The

solvent welding technique of joining PVC and CPVC pipe is a

specialized skill just as any other pipe fitting technique.

E. Closely supervise the installation and inspect the finished

job before start-up.

F. Contact the manufacturer, supplier, or competent consulting

agency if you have any questions about the application or

installation of PVC and CPVC pipe.

G. Take the time and effort to do a professional job. Shortcuts

will only cause you problems and delays in start-up. By far,

the majority of failures in PVC and CPVC systems are the

result of shortcuts and/or improper joining techniques.

2. SELECTION OF MATERIALS

• Cutting Device - Saw or Pipe Cutter

• Deburring Tool, Knife, File, or Beveling Machine (2" and above)

• Brush - Pure Bristle

• Rag - Cotton (Not Synthetic)

• Primer and Cleaner

• Solvent Cement - PVC for PVC Components and CPVC for

CPVC Components

• Containers - Metal or Glass to hold Primer and Cement. Select

the type of PVC or CPVC materials to be used on the basis of

their application with respect to chemical resistance, pressure

rating, temperature characteristics, etc.

• Insertion Tool - Helpful for larger diameter pipe and fittings 6

inches (15.2 cm) and above.

PRIMER

It is recommended that Tetrahydrofuran (THF) be used to prepare

the surfaces of pipe and fittings for solvent welding. Do not use

water, rags, gasoline or any other substitutes for cleaning PVC or

CPVC surfaces. A chemical cleaner such as MEK may be used.

CEMENT

The cement should be a bodied cement of approximately 500 to

1600 centipoise viscosity containing 10-20% (by weight) virgin PVC

material solvated with tetrahydrofuran (THF). Small quantities of

dimethyl formamide (DMF) may be included to act as a retarding

agent to extend curing time. Select the proper cement; Schedule

40 cement should be used for Schedule 40 pipe. Never use all-

purpose cements, commercial glues and adhesives or ABS cement

to join PVC or CPVC pipe and fittings.

APPLICATORS

Select a suitable pure bristle type paint brush. Use a proper width

brush or roller to apply the primer and cement (see chart below).

Speedy application of cement is important due to its fast drying

characteristics. IMPORTANT NOTE: A dauber type applicator should

only be used on pipe sizes 2" and below. For larger diameter pipe, a

brush or roller must be used.

RECOMMENDED BRUSH* SIZE FOR PRIMER

AND CEMENT APPLICATIONS

Nominal Pipe Size Brush Width

(IPS)

2 1.5" (3.8 cm)

3 1.5" - 2.5" (3.8 cm - 6.4 cm)

*USE ONLY NATURAL BRISTLE

3.MAKING THE JOINT

A. Cutting

Pipe must be squarely cut to allow for the proper interfacing of

the pipe end and the fitting socket bottom. This can be

accomplished with a miter box saw or wheel type cutter. Wheel

type cutters are not generally recommended for larger diameters

since they tend to flare the corner of the pipe end. If this type of

cutter is used, the flare on the end must be completely removed.

NOTE: Power saws should be specifically designed to cut plastic pipe.

STEP A

B. Deburring

Use a knife, plastic pipe deburring tool, or file to remove burrs from the

end of small diameter pipe. Be sure to remove all burrs from around the

inside as well as the outside of the pipe. A slight chamfer (bevel) of about

10°-15° should be added to the end to permit easier insertion of the pipe

into the end of the fitting. Failure to chamfer the edge of the pipe may

remove cement from the fitting socket, causing the joint to leak.

STEP B

C. Test dry fit of the joint

Tapered fitting sockets are designed so that an interfaced fit should

occur when the pipe is inserted about 1/3 to 2/3 of the way into the

socket. Occasionally, when pipe fitting dimensions are at the tolerance

extremes, it will be possible to fully insert dry pipe to the bottom of the

fitting socket. When this happens, a sufficient quantity of cement

must be applied to the joint to fill the gap between the pipe and fitting.

The gap must be filled to obtain a strong, leak-free joint.

D. Inspection, cleaning, priming

Visually inspect the inside of the pipe and fitting sockets and remove

all dirt, grease or moisture with a clean dry rag. If wiping fails to

clean the surfaces, a chemical cleaner must be used. Check for

possible damage such as splits or cracks and replace if necessary.

Depth-of-entry

Marking the depth of entry is a way to check if the pipe has reached

the bottom of the fitting socket in Step F. Measure the fitting depth

and mark this distance on the pipe O.D. You may want to add

several inches to the distance and make a second mark as the

primer and cement will most likely destroy your first one.

Apply primer to the surface of the pipe and fitting socket with a natural

bristle brush. This process softens and prepares the PVC or CPVC for

the solvent cementing step. Move quickly and without hesitation to

the cementing procedure while the surfaces are still wet with primer.

E. Application of solvent cement

• Apply the solvent cement evenly and quickly around the outside of

the pipe at a width a little greater than the depth of the fitting socket.

• Apply a light coat of cement evenly around the inside of the

fitting socket. Avoid puddling.

• Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe end.

STEP E

F. Joint assembly

Working quickly, insert the pipe into the fitting socket bottom and

give the pipe or fitting a 1/4 turn to evenly distribute the cement.

Do not continue to rotate the pipe after it has hit the bottom of the

fitting socket. A good joint will have sufficient cement to make a

bead all the way around the outside of the fitting hub. The fitting

will have a tendency to slide back while the cement is still wet so

hold the joint together for about 15 seconds.

STEP F

G. Cleanup and joint movement

Remove all excess cement from around the pipe and fitting with

a dry cotton rag. This must be done while the cement is still soft.

The joint should not be disturbed immediately after the cementing

procedure, and sufficient time should be allowed for proper curing

of the joint. Exact drying time is difficult to predict because it

depends on variables such as temperature, humidity and cement

integrity. For more specific information, you should contact your

solvent cement manufacturer.

STEP G

FOR YOUR SAFETY READ BEFORE OPERATING

WARNING: If you do not follow these instructions exactly, a fire or

explosion may result causing property damage, personal injury or loss of

life.

A. This appliance does not have a pilot. It is equipped

with an ignition device which automatically lights the

burner. Do NOT try to light the burner by hand.

B. BEFORE OPERATING smell all around the appliance

area for gas. Be sure to smell next to the floor because

some gas is heavier than air and will settle on the floor.

WHAT TO DO IF YOU SMELL GAS:

• Do not try to light any appliance.

• Do not touch any electric switch;

Do not use any phone in your building.

• Immediately call your gas supplier from a neighbor’s

phone. Follow the gas supplier’s instructions.

• If you cannot reach your gas supplier, call the fire

department.

C. Use only your hand to push in the gas control buttons.

Never use tools. If the control buttons will not push in,

don’t try to repair them, call a qualified service technician.

Force or attempted repair may result in a fire or explosion.

D. Do not use this appliance if any part has been under

water. Immediately contact a qualified installer or service

agency to replace a flooded water heater. Do not attempt

to repair the unit! It must be replaced!

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

1. Set the thermostat to the lowest setting by first pressing the COOLER and HOTTER buttons together and

holding for 1 second. Then press the COOLER button until the WARM indicator light appears.

2. Set the ON/OFF switch on the blower control box to the “OFF” position.

3. Turn off all electric power to the appliance if service is to be performed.

BEFORE OPERATING: ENTIRE SYSTEM MUST BE FILLED WITH WATER AND AIR PURGED FROM ALL LINES.

1. STOP! Read the safety information above,

on this label.

2. Set the thermostat to the lowest setting by first pressing

the COOLER and HOTTER buttons together

and holding for 1 second. Then press the COOLER

button until the WARM indicator light appears.

3. Set the “ON/OFF” switch on the blower control box to

the “OFF” position.

4. This appliance is equipped with a device which

automatically lights the burner.

DO NOT TRY TO LIGHT THE BURNER BY HAND.

5. Wait five (5) minutes to clear out any gas.

If you then smell gas, STOP! Follow “B” in

the safety information above on this label. If you don’t

smell gas, go to the next step.

6. Turn on all electrical power to the appliance.

7. Set thermostat to desired setting by first pressing the

COOLER and HOTTER buttons together

and holding for 1 second. Then press the HOTTER

button.

8. If the appliance will not operate, follow the instructions

“TO TURN OFF GAS TO APPLIANCE” and call your

technician or gas supplier.

9. WATER TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT

is approximately 120°F.

CAUTION: Hotter water increases the risk

of scald injury. Consult the instruction

manual before changing temperature.

WARNING: TURN OFF ALL ELECTRIC

POWER BEFORE SERVICING

TO TURN OFF GAS TO APPLIANCE

Any water heater’s intended purpose is to heat water. Hot water is

needed for cleansing, cleaning, and sanitizing (bodies, dishes, clothing).

Untempered hot water can present a scald hazard. Depending on the

time element, and the people involved (adults, children, elderly, infirm,

etc.) scalding may occur at different temperatures.

It is recommended that lower water temperatures be used to avoid

the risk of scalding. It is further recommended, in all cases, that the

water temperature be set for the lowest temperature which satisfies

your hot water needs. This will also provide the most energy efficient

operation of the water heater.

Figure 26 shows the approximate water temperatures produced at

various thermostat settings. Short repeated heating cycles caused

by small hot water uses can cause temperatures at the point of use

to exceed the thermostat setting by up to 30°F (17°C). If you

experience this type of use you should consider using lower

temperature settings to reduce scald hazards.

Valves for reducing the point-of-use temperature by mixing cold and

hot water are available, see Figure 2. Also available are inexpensive

devices that attach to faucets to limit hot water temperatures. Contact

a licensed plumber or the local plumbing authority.

HOT WATER CAN SCALD: Water heaters are intended to produce hot

water. Water heated to a temperature which will satisfy space heating,

clothes washing, dish washing, and other sanitizing needs can scald

and permanently injure you upon contact. Some people are more likely

to be permanently injured by hot water than others. These include the

elderly, children, the infirm, or physically/mentally handicapped. If anyone

using hot water in your home fits into one of these groups or if there is a

local code or state law requiring a certain temperature water at the hot

water tap, then you must take special precautions. In addition to using

the lowest possible temperature setting that satisfies your hot water needs,

a means such as a mixing valve, shall be used at the hot water taps used

by these people or at the water heater. Mixing valves are available at

plumbing supply or hardware stores, see Figure 2. Follow manufacturer’s

instructions for installation of the valves. Before changing the factory

setting on the thermostat, read the “Temperature Regulation” section in

this manual, see Figure 26.

Never allow small children to use a hot water tap, or to draw their

own bath water. Never leave a child or handicapped person

unattended in a bathtub or shower.

The water heater should be located in an area where the general

public does not have access. If a suitable area is not available, a

TEMPERATURE REGULATION

cover should be installed over the thermostat to prevent tampering.

The water temperature setting was factory set at the lowest temperature;

Pressing the “COOLER” button decreases temperature and

pressing the “HOTTER” button increases the temperature.

Setting the water heater temperature at 120°F (49°C) (Approx. “ ”

mark on temperature setting of gas valve) will reduce the risks of

scalds. Some states require settings at specific lower temperatures.

To avoid any unintentional changes in water temperature settings,

the control has a tamper resistant feature for changing the temperature

setting. To change the temperature setting follow these instructions:

1. “Wake Up” the temperature indicators by holding down both

“COOLER” and “HOTTER” temperature adjustment buttons at the

same time for one second, see Figure 26. One or two of the

temperature indicators will light up. These indicators will only

remain on for 30 seconds if no further buttons are pressed. After

30 seconds the control will go back to “Sleep” mode.

2. Release both of the temperature adjustment buttons.

a. To decrease the temperature press and release the “COOLER”

button until the desired setting is reached.

b. To increase the temperature press and release the “HOTTER”

button until the desired setting is reached.

NOTE: Holding down the button will not continue to lower or raise

the temperature setting. The button must be pressed and released

for each temperature change desired.

Should overheating occur or the gas supply fail to shut off, turn off

the manual gas control valve to the appliance.

Time to Produce

Display 2nd and 3rd Degree

Temperature Setting A B C Burns on Adult Skin

C-Flashing = approx. 160°F (71°C) About 1/2 seconds

C = approx. 150°F (66°C) About 1-1/2 seconds

B = approx. 140°F (60°C) Less than 5 seconds

A = approx. 130°F (54°C) About 30 seconds

= approx. 120°F (49°C) More than 5 minutes

WARM = approx. 80°F (27°C) - - - - - - - - - - - - -

FIGURE 26.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

START UP CONDITIONS

SMOKE/ODOR

It is not uncommon to experience a small amount of smoke and

odor during the initial start-up. This is due to burning off of oil from

metal parts, and will disappear in a short while.

THERMAL EXPANSION

Water supply systems may, because of such events as high line

pressure, frequent cut-offs, the effects of water hammer among

others, have installed devices such as pressure reducing valves,

check valves, back flow preventers, etc. to control these types of

problems. When these devices are not equipped with an internal

by-pass, and no other measures are taken, the devices cause the

water system to be closed. As water is heated, it expands (thermal

expansion) and closed systems do not allow for the expansion of

heated water.

The water within the water tank expands as it is heated and

increases the pressure of the water system. If the relieving point

of the water heater’s temperature-pressure relief valve is

reached, the valve will release the excess pressure. The

temperature-pressure relief valve is not intended for the

constant relief of thermal expansion. This is an unacceptable

condition and must be corrected. It is recommended that any

devices installed which could create a closed system have a

by-pass and/or the system have an expansion tank or device to

relieve the pressure built by thermal expansion in the water

system. Expansion tanks are available for ordering through a

local plumbing contractor. Contact the local water heater supplier

or service agency for assistance in controlling these situations.

STRANGE SOUNDS

Possible noises due to expansion and contraction of some metal

parts during periods of heat-up and cool-down do not necessarily

represent harmful or dangerous conditions.

Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the burner area

during heating and cooling periods and should be considered normal.

See “Condensate” in this section.

OPERATIONAL CONDITIONS

SMELLY WATER

In each water heater there is installed at least one anode rod (see

parts section) for corrosion protection of the tank. Certain water

conditions will cause a reaction between this rod and the water. The

most common complaint associated with the anode rod is one of a

“rotten egg smell” in the hot water. The smell is a result of four factors

which must all be present for the odor to develop:

a. A concentration of sulfate in the supply water.

b. Little or no dissolved oxygen in the water.

c. A sulfate reducing bacteria which has accumulated within the

water heater (this harmless bacteria is nontoxic to humans).

d. An excess of active hydrogen in the tank. This is caused by the

corrosion protective action of the anode.

Smelly water may be eliminated or reduced in some water heater

models by replacing the anode(s) with one of less active material,

and then chlorinating the water heater tank and all water lines. Contact

the local water heater supplier or service agency for further information

concerning an Anode Replacement Kit and this chlorination treatment.

If the smelly water persists after the anode replacement and

chlorination treatment, we can only suggest that chlorination or aeration

of the water supply be considered to eliminate the water problem.

Do not remove the anode leaving the tank unprotected. By doing

so, all warranty on the water heater tank is voided.

“AIR” IN HOT WATER FAUCETS

HYDROGEN GAS: Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water

system that has not been used for a long period of time (generally

two weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable and

explosive. To prevent the possibility of injury under these conditions,

we recommend the hot water faucet, located farthest away, be

opened for several minutes before any electrical appliances which

are connected to the hot water system are used (such as a

dishwasher or washing machine). If hydrogen gas is present, there

will probably be an unusual sound similar to air escaping through

the pipe as the hot water faucet is opened. There must be no

smoking or open flame near the faucet at the time it is open.

HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE SHUT OFF SYSTEM

This water heater is equipped with an automatic gas shut-off system.

This system works when high water temperatures are present. Turn

“OFF” the entire gas supply to the water heater. The high temperature

shut-off is built into the gas control valve. It is non-resettable. If the

high temperature shut-off activates, the gas control valve must be

replaced. Contact your gas supplier or service agency.

VENTING SYSTEM INSPECTION

At least once a year a visual inspection should be made of the venting

system. You should look for:

1. Obstructions which could cause improper venting. The

combustion and ventilation air flow must not be obstructed.

2. Damage or deterioration which could cause improper venting or

leakage of combustion products.

Be sure the vent piping is properly connected to prevent escape of

dangerous flue gasses which could cause deadly asphyxiation.

Obstructions and deteriorated vent systems may present serious

health risk or asphyxiation.

Chemical vapor corrosion of the flue and vent system may occur if

air for combustion contains certain chemical vapors. Spray can

propellants, cleaning solvents, refrigerator and air conditioner

refrigerants, swimming pool chemicals, calcium and sodium

chloride, waxes, bleach and process chemicals are typical

compounds which are potentially corrosive.

If after inspection of the vent system you found sooting or deterioration,

something is wrong. Call the local gas utility to correct the problem

and clean or replace the flue and venting before resuming operation

of the water heater.

BURNER OPERATION AND INSPECTION

Flood damage to a water heater may not be readily visible or

immediately detectable. However, over a period of time a flooded

water heater will create dangerous conditions which can cause

DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE.

Contact a qualified installer or service agency to replace a flooded

water heater. Do not attempt to repair the unit! It must be replaced!

At least once a year a visual inspection should be made of the

main burner and the hot surface igniter assembly for proper flame

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

characteristics and ignition sequences. This can be done by

removing the Outer Door and viewing the main burner operation

through the Viewport on the Inner Door, see Figure 1. The main

burner should provide complete combustion of gas, ignite rapidly,

give reasonably quiet operation, and cause no excessive flame

lifting from the burner ports. If the proper flame characteristics are

not evident (see Figure 27), make sure that the flow of combustion

and ventilation air is not blocked.

You should also check for sooting. Soot is not normal and will impair

proper combustion. A visual inspection of the main burner and HSI igniter

assembly should also be done at least once a year, see Figure 27.

Soot build-up indicates a problem that requires correction before

further use. Turn “OFF” gas to water heater and leave off until repairs

are made, because failure to correct the cause of the sooting can

result in a fire causing death, serious injury, or property damage.

FIGURE 27.

BURNER CLEANING

In the event your burner or burner air openings require cleaning,

turn the blower switch to the “OFF” position and allow the burner

to cool. Call a service agency to remove and clean the burner and

correct the problem that required the burner to be cleaned.

HOUSEKEEPING

Vacuum around base of water heater for dust, dirt, and lint on a

regular basis.

INSTALLED IN SUITABLE AREA: To insure sufficient ventilation and

combustion air supply, proper clearances from the water heater must

be maintained. See “Locating the New Water Heater” section.

Combustible materials such as clothing, cleaning materials, or

flammable liquids, etc. must not be placed against or adjacent to

the water heater which can cause a fire.

ANODE ROD INSPECTION

The anode rod is used to protect the tank from corrosion. Most hot

water tanks are equipped with an anode rod. The submerged rod

sacrifices itself to protect the tank. Instead of corroding the tank,

water ions attack and eat away the anode rod. This does not affect

the water’s taste or color. The rod must be maintained to keep the

tank in operating condition.

Anode deterioration depends on water conductivity, not necessarily

water condition. A corroded or pitted anode rod indicates high water

conductivity and should be checked and/or replaced more often than

an anode rod that appears to be intact. Replacement of a depleted

anode rod can extend the life of your water heater. Inspection should

be conducted by a qualified technician, and at a minimum should be

checked annually after the warranty period.

TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE

RELIEF VALVE OPERATION

The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated

at least once a year.

FIGURE 28.

When checking the temperature-pressure relief valve operation,

make sure that (1) no one is in front of or around the outlet of the

temperature-pressure relief valve discharge line, and (2) that the

water discharge will not cause any property damage, as the water

may be extremely hot, see Figure 28.

If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and

continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet

to the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the

temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.

If the temperature-pressure relief valve on the appliance weeps or

discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expansion. You

may have a check valve installed in the water line or a water meter

with a check valve. Consult your local water supplier or service

agency for further information. Do not plug the temperature-

pressure relief valve.

DRAINING

The water heater should be drained if being shut down during

freezing temperatures. Also periodic draining and cleaning of

sediment from the tank may be necessary.

1. Set the blower switch to the “OFF” position.

2. CLOSE the cold water inlet valve to the water heater.

3. OPEN a nearby hot water faucet and leave open to allow for

draining.

4. Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate to an adequate

drain.

5. OPEN the water heater drain valve to allow for tank draining.

NOTE: If the water heater is going to be shut down and

drained for an extended period, the drain valve should be

left open with hose connected allowing water to terminate

to an adequate drain.

6. CLOSE the drain valve.

7. Follow instructions in the “Filling The Water Heater” section.

8. Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see “Lighting

Instructions” in this manual to restart the water heater.

LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS

Never use this water heater unless it is completely filled with water.

To prevent damage to the tank, the tank must be filled with water.

Water must flow from the hot water faucet before turning “ON” gas

to the water heater.

A *Condensation may be seen on pipes in humid weather or pipe

connections may be leaking.

B. *The anode rod fitting may be leaking.

C. Small amounts of water from temperature-pressure relief valve

may be due to thermal expansion or high water pressure in your

area.

D. *The temperature-pressure relief valve may be leaking at the

tank fitting.

E. Water from a drain valve may be due to the valve being slightly

opened.

F. *The drain valve may be leaking at the tank fitting.

G. Combustion products contain water vapor which can condense

on the cooler surfaces of the tank. Droplets form and drip onto

the burner or run on the floor. This is common at the time of

start-up after installation and when incoming water is cold.

H. Water in the water heater bottom or on the floor may be

from condensation, loose connections, or the relief valve.

DO NOT replace the water heater until a full inspection of

all possible water sources is made and necessary

corrective steps taken.

Leakage from other appliances, water lines, or ground seepage

should also be checked.

* To check where threaded portion enters tank, insert cotton swab

between jacket opening and fitting. If cotton is wet, follow

“Draining” instructions in the “Periodic Maintenance” section and

then remove fitting. Put pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads

and replace. Then follow “Filling the Water Heater” instructions

in the “Installing the New Water Heater” section.

SERVICE

If a condition persists or you are uncertain about the operation of

the water heater contact a service agency.

Use this guide to check a “Leaking” water heater. Many

suspected “Leakers” are not leaking tanks. Often the source of

the water can be found and corrected.

If you are not thoroughly familiar with gas codes, your water heater,

and safety practices, contact your gas supplier or qualified installer

to check the water heater.

Read this manual first. Then before checking the water heater make

sure the gas supply has been turned “OFF”, and never turn the gas

“ON” before the tank is completely full of water.

Key No. Part Description

1 Outer Door

2 Aluminum Anode

3 Intellivent Control

4 Plastic Top

5 Blower Assembly

6 Switch and Harness Assembly

7 T&P Valve

8 Drain Valve

9 Wiring Harness

10 Aluminum Anode Outlet

11 Vent Pipe Assembly #1

12 Vent Pipe Assembly #2

13 Vent Pipe Assembly #3

14 Inlet Tube

15 Pipe Nipple

16 Burner Tube Assembly

17 Hot Surface Igniter

18 Burner Head Assembly

19 Embossed Inner Door

20 Insulation - Inner Door

21 Insulation - Viewport

22 Window - Observation

23 Viewport

24 Nut - Serrated Hex Flange

25 Screw - Sheet Metal, # 8-15

26 Orifice - Burner

27 Vent Kit Assembly

28 Wall Plate 2”

29 Wall Plate 3”

30 Screen and Vent Terminal Assembly

31 Instruction Tag-Wire Screen F/E 3”

32 Instruction Tag-Wire Screen F/E 4”

33 Instruction Sheet

34 Wire Screen 3”

35 Wire Screen 4”

36 Wall Plate 4”

37 Flexible Tubing

38 Reducing Hose Barb Tee

39 Hose Barb Tee

REPAIR PARTS LIST

* Not Shown.

** Optional

Now that you have purchased this water heater, should a need ever

exist for repair parts or service, simply contact the company it was purchased

from or direct from the manufacturer listed on the rating plate on the water

heater.

Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.

Selling prices will be furnished on request or parts will be

shipped at prevailing prices and you will be billed accordingly.

The model number of your Gas Water Heater will be found on the

rating place located above the gas control valve.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE

FOLLOWING INFORMATION:

• MODEL NUMBER

• TYPE GAS (NATURAL OR PROPANE (L.P.)

• SERIAL NUMBER

• PART DESCRIPTION

THIS IS A REPAIR PARTS LIST, NOT A PACKING LIST. PARTS

ARE NOT DRAWN TO SCALE.

16 17

24 25

27 28

14 15

16 26

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINESTROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Please check guidelines below. For your safety, water heater service should be performed only by a qualified service technician.

Read the GENERAL SAFETY INFORMATION section first.

INTELLI-VENT TROUBLESHOOTING CHART - RESIDENTIAL CONTROL

PROBLEM SOLUTION

Inadequate or no earth ground 1. Ensure the wall outlet is properly grounded.

1 sensed by the Intelli-Vent™

control. 2. Ensure all ground connections/wires on the

water heater are secure.

Power supply to Intelli-Vent™ 1. Ensure the wall outlet is properly wired.

2 control has reversed polarity or a

high resistance to earth ground. 2. Ensure all internal 120 VAC wiring connections and

wiring harness have no reversed wires. 120 VAC

“hot” wire must connect to the on/off switch.

3. Ensure the wall outlet is properly grounded.

4. Ensure all ground connections/wires on the water

heater are secure.

Pressure switch circuit remaining 1. Ensure air pressure switch circuit wiring is correct

3 closed for more than 5 seconds and the air pressure switch is not jumpered.

after heating cycle begins.

Blower does not start. 2. Secure power to water heater, check continuity of air

pressure switch contacts with wires disconnected.

Service Note:

Disconnect power - disconnect one A If pressure switch contacts show continuity (closed

wire from the air pressure switch circuit) replace the pressure switch.

or the vent temperature limit

switch. Turn power back on - B If pressure switch contacts are open and all wiring

blower should start. is correct - turn the power off for 10-20 seconds

then on again to clear the error code - if the error

code persists replace the Intelli-Vent™ control.

Pressure switch circuit remains open 1. Ensure the blower is running - check for 120 VAC to

4 longer than 5 seconds after the blower the blower when the heating cycle begins, check the

is energized. wiring. If the control does not energize the blower -

replace the Intelli-Vent™ control. If the blower fails to

Blower may run continuously in start when energized - replace the blower assembly.

this condition. 2. Ensure the air pressure switch sensing tube is properly

connected - not kinked or damaged.

3. Check continuity of vent temperature limit switch - replace

switch if contacts remain open under 160ºF (71°C).

4. Ensure the correct size of vent pipe (2”, 3”, 4”) was used

Service Note: per installation manual for vent length. Ensure maximum

To learn more about performing Air number of elbows or equivalent feet of vent pipe has not

Pressure Switch tests visit our web exceeded maximum limits.

site www.hotwater.com to download

technical bulletin A-023-06 Air Pressure 5. Ensure there are no obstructions in the vent pipe.

Switches. 6. Check air pressure switch performance - check pressure

with a digital manometer - check continuity of contacts.

(see service note in left column) If the switch proves

defective - replace the air pressure switch and or the

blower assembly as required.

7. If air pressure switch performance test results prove

the air pressure switch is working properly and error

code 4 persists - replace the Intelli-Vent™ control.

The Intelli-Vent™ control has detected 1. Check wiring to the hot surface ignitor - replace ignitor

5 an open ignitor circuit. assembly if wiring is damaged or worn.

Service Note: 2. Check ignitor assembly plug and the socket on the

The resistance (ohms) of a hot surface Intelli-Vent™ body for good connection. Replace

ignitor will increase over time. If the ignitor assembly and/or control if necessary.

resistance at room temperature is near

18.8 ohms - consider replacing the ignitor 3. Check resistance of ignitor at room temperature 77ºF

as a preventative measure. (25°C) at the plug end. Replace ignitor if resistance

is not within 11.5 and 18.8 ohms at room temperature.

4. If results from the above tests were good and error

code 5 persists - replace the Intelli-Vent™ control.

A B C

# LED STATUS

WATER HEATER CONTROL

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Please check guidelines below. For your safety, water heater service should be performed only by a qualified service technician.

Read the GENERAL SAFETY INFORMATION section first.

INTELLI-VENT TROUBLESHOOTING CHART - RESIDENTIAL CONTROL

PROBLEM SOLUTION

Ignition/flame failure. 1. Gas supply is turned off - pressure too low. Ensure

6supply and manifold gas pressures are within

The water heater has reached the requirements in the installation manual. Manifold gas

maximum number of retries and is pressure is non-adjustable if pressure is off by more

currently locked out for one hour. than 0.3” W.C. (75 Pa) replace the Intelli-Vent™ control.

Cycle the power to the water heater 2. Low supply voltage - should be 115 -125 VAC.

off and on to reset. 3. Ensure flame sensor is making good contact with the

Service Note: burner flame, ensure flame is steady see #8 below.

The resistance (ohms) of a hot surface

ignitor will increase over time. If the 4.Ensure the flame sensor is clean - use ultra fine steel

resistance at room temperature is near wool or Scotch-Brite™ pad to clean flame sensor.

18.8 ohms - consider replacing the ignitor

as a preventative measure. 5. Ensure the hot surface ignitor is positioned to provide

consistent ignition.

6. Check for any cracks in ignitor assembly ceramic

insulators - replace ignitor assembly if damaged.

7. Check resistance of ignitor at room temperature (77ºF)

(25°C) at the plug end. Replace ignitor if resistance is

not within 11.5 and 18.8 ohms at room temperature.

8. Ensure the correct size of vent pipe (2”, 3”, 4”) was

used per installation manual for vent length. Using larger

pipe than required may cause excessive air turbulance

in the combustion chamber.

Self diagnostic tests have found a problem 1. Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds then on again to

7 with the gas valve driver circuit, internal clear these error codes.

microprocessor, or other internal circuits. 2. If any of these error codes persist or cannot be cleared-

replace the Intelli-Vent™ control.

Flame signal has been sensed out of 1. Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds and then on again

10 proper sequence. again to clear this error code.

2. Replace the Intelli-Vent™ control if this error code persists.

Water temperature in the tank has 1. Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds then on again

11 exceeded 195°F (91°C) and has to clear this error code.

activated the ECO. 2. Replace the Intelli-Vent™ if the error code persists.

The self diagnostic check detected one 1. Press and release temperature adjust buttons. If the

12 or both of the temperature adjust buttons above action does not clear the error, the control will

are stuck. continue to regulate water temperature at the last setting.

However, settings will no longer be adjustable - the

control should be replaced.

The self diagnostic test has detected the 1. Turn the power off for 10-20 seconds then on again

13 water temperature sensor (thermistor) is to clear this error code.

either open or shorted. 2. Replace the Intelli-Vent™ control if this error code persist.

A B C

# LED STATUS

WATER HEATER CONTROL

A B C

These guidelines should be utilized by a qualified service agent.

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINESTROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES

PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION

1.) Blower will not run.

a. “ON/OFF” control switch turned off. Turn switch to the “ON” position.

b. Blower unplugged. Plug blower back into 115 VAC outlet.

c. No power at outlet. Repair service to outlet.

d. Thermostat defective. Replace thermostat.

e. Control harness defective. Replace control harness.

f. High limit control circuit open. Replace thermostat.

g. Blower motor defective. Replace blower assembly.

2.) Thermostat problems

a. Thermostat set too low. Adjust temperature control higher.

b. Thermostat or ECO defective. Replace thermostat.

3.) Others

a. Heater undersized. Reduce hot water use.

b. Low gas pressure. Contact dealer.

c. Incoming water is usually cold. Allow more time for heater to reheat.

d. Leaking hot water pipes of fixtures. Have plumber check and repair leaks.

NOT ENOUGH HOT WATER

e. Heater not lit or thermostat not on. Refer to LIGHTING INSTRUCTIONS.

VENT PIPE TOO HOT (ABOVE 170° F [ 77° C ])

Wrong burner orifice. Install correct orifice.

Dirt in burner ports. Turn off heater and gas, clean burner head.

YELLOW FLAME Combustion air path restricted. Check exhaust venting and air openings in

bottom base pan for obstructions or blockage.

Water on the floor under heater. See CONDENSATION section.

CONDENSATION Water dripping from blower assembly. Provide drip “TEE” to catch condensation, see

Figure 1.

Improperly sealed, hot or cold supply

connections, relief valve, drain valve or

thermostat threads.

Check for leaks at all condensate points. See

Figure 1. Also see LEAK CHECKPOINTS

section.

Leakage from other appliances or water lines. Inspect other appliances near water heater.

WATER LEAKS

Condensation of flue products. Refer to CONDENSATION section.

Thermal expansion in closed water system. Install thermal expansion tank (Do not plug

T&P valve).

LEAKING T & P Improperly sealed valve. Check relief valve for proper operation (Do

not plug T&P valve).

High sulfate or mineral content in water

supply. Drain and flush heater thoroughly then refill.

HOT WATER ODORS

(refer to cathodic protection) Bacteria in water supply. Chlorinate water supply.

WATER TOO HOT Thermostat set too high. Refer to TEMPERATURE REGULATION

section.

WATER HEATER SOUNDS Condensation dripping on burner. Refer to CONDENSATION above.

SIZZLING - RUMBLING Sediment at bottom of heater tank. Clean sediment from tank. Refer to

DRAINING.

SOOTING Improper combustion. Refer to Air Requirements.

Outlet polarity is reversed. Test polarity and correct.

High ambient room temperature. Contact a service agency to determine cause.

Combustion air path restricted. Check exhaust venting and air openings in

bottom base pan for obstructions or blockage.

BURNER WILL NOT STAY LIT –

GOES OUT 4-5 SECONDS

Defective gas valve. Replace gas valve.

Lack of air supply.

Improperly installed vent piping.

Downdraft

VENT GAS ODORS

Poor Combustion

Shut off water heater immediately and contact

a service agency to determine cause.

THIS WARRANTY IS APPLICABLE TO THE ORIGINAL OWNER ONLY.

If the glass lined tank in this water heater shall prove upon examination by

(the warrantor) to have leaked during the warranty period in normal residential

use, due to natural corrosion from potable water therein, the warrantor will

furnish the ORIGINAL OWNER a replacement water heater of equivalent

size and current model, or a replacement part for any component part which

fails in normal use, in accordance with the warranty terms and conditions

specified below. THE WATER HEATER REPLACEMENT MODEL OR PART

WILL BE WARRANTED FOR ONLY THE UNEXPIRED PORTION OF THE

ORIGINAL WARRANTY. The warranty period will be determined by the

original installation date of the water heater. PROOF-OF-PURCHASE AND

PROOF-OF-INSTALLATION ARE NECESSARY TO VALIDATE THIS

WARRANTY. This warranty is not transferable.

WARRANTY PERIOD

Product Line TANK1PARTS2

GPHE-50 6 YEARS 6 YEARS

When the water heater has been used for other than single family

residential application: 1. The Tank warranty shall be reduced to 3 years

on 10 year models and 1 year on 6 and 8 year models. 2. The parts

warranty shall be reduced to 1 year for all models. Returned parts which

meet any of the following conditions are not covered by this warranty: 1)

improper installation or removal; 2) damaged by other than normal wear;

3) replaced for cosmetic purposes; or 4) returned with defaced date codes.

CONDITIONS AND EXCEPTIONS

This warranty shall apply only when the water heater is installed and

operated in accordance with: 1) all local fire codes and plumbing codes,

ordinances and regulations; 2) the printed instructions provided with it;

3) good industry practices; and 4) proper safety practices such as but

not limited to a properly sized drain pan if installed in an area where

leakage from connections of the tank would result in damage to the

area adjacent to the heater. In addition, a new temperature and pressure

relief valve, certified by the Canadian Standards Association must have

been properly installed and piped to the nearest drain.

This warranty shall apply only when the heater is:

• owned by the original purchaser;

• used at temperatures not exceeding the maximum calibrated

setting of its thermostat;

• not subjected to excessive water pressure fluctuations and not

subject to an operating pressure greater than 150 P.S.I.;

• filled with potable water, free to circulate at all times and with the

tank free of damaging water sediment or scale deposits;

• used in a non-corrosive and non-contaminated atmosphere;

• used with factory approved anode(s) installed;

• in its original installation location;

• in the United States and its territories or possessions or Canada;

• sized in accordance with proper sizing techniques for residential

water heaters;

• bearing a rating plate which has not been altered, defaced or

removed except as required by the warrantor;

• used in an open system or in a closed system with a properly

sized and installed thermal expansion tank;

• fired at the factory rated input using the fuel stated in the face of

the rating plate;

• operated with the inner and outer combustion chamber doors

in place;

• maintained in accordance with the instructions printed in the

manual included with the heater.

Any accident to the water heater or any part thereof (including freezing,

fire, floods, or lightning), any misuse, abuse or alteration of it, any

operation of it in a modified form, or any attempt to repair tank leaks

or parts, will void this warranty.

SERVICE AND LABOR RESPONSIBILITY

UNDER THIS LIMITED WARRANTY, THE WARRANTOR WILL

PROVIDE ONLY A REPLACEMENT WATER HEATER OR PART

THEREOF. THE OWNER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL OTHER COSTS.

Such costs may include but are not limited to:

a. Labor charges for service, removal, or reinstallation of the water

heater or part thereof.

LIMITED RESIDENTIAL GAS WARRANTY

b. Shipping and delivery charges for forwarding the new water heater or

replacement part from the nearest distributor and returning the claimed

defective heater or part to such distributor except in the state of

California where such charges are the manufacturer’s responsibility.

c. All cost necessary or incidental for handling and administrative

charges, and for any materials and/or permits required for

installation of the replacement heater or part.

LIMITATION ON IMPLIED WARRANTIES

Implied warranties, including any warranty of merchantability imposed on

the sale of this heater under state law are limited to one year duration for the

heater or any of its parts. Some states do not allow limitations on how long

an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitations may not apply to you.

CLAIM PROCEDURE

Any claim under this warranty should be initiated with the dealer who

sold the heater, or with any other dealer handling the warrantor’s products.

The warrantor will only honor replacement with identical or similar

water heater or parts thereof which are manufactured or distributed

by the warrantor.

Dealer replacements are made subject to in-warranty validation by

warrantor.

PROOF-OF-PURCHASE AND PROOF-OF-INSTALLATION DATES

ARE REQUIRED TO SUPPORT WARRANTY FOR CLAIM FROM

ORIGINAL OWNER. THIS FORM DOES NOT CONSTITUTE PROOF-

OF-PURCHASE OR PROOF-OF-INSTALLATION.

DISCLAIMERS

NO EXPRESS WARRANTY HAS BEEN OR WILL BE MADE IN BEHALF

OF THE WARRANTOR WITH RESPECT TO THE MERCHANTABILITY

OF THE HEATER OR THE INSTALLATION, OPERATION, REPAIR OR

REPLACEMENT OF THE HEATER OR PARTS. THE WARRANTOR SHALL

NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR WATER DAMAGE, LOSS OF USE OF THE

UNIT, INCONVENIENCE, LOSS OR DAMAGE TO PERSONAL PROPERTY,

OR OTHER CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGE. THE WARRANTOR SHALL

NOT BE LIABLE BY VIRTUE OF THIS WARRANTY OR OTHERWISE FOR

DAMAGE TO ANY PERSONS OR PROPERTY, WHETHER DIRECT OR

INDIRECT, AND WHETHER ARISING IN CONTRACT OR IN TORT.

Some states do not allow the limitation or exclusion of incidental or

consequential damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not

apply to you.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have

other rights which vary from state to state. Should governmental

regulations or industry standards prohibit the Manufacturer from furnishing

a comparable model replacement under this warranty, the Owner will be

furnished with the closest comparable water heater meeting the current

governmental regulations and industry standards. A supplementary fee

may be assessed to cover the additional cost associated with the changes

made to meet applicable regulations and standards.

Fill out and keep with water heater.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Model Number____________________________________________

Serial Number_____________________________________________

Installation Information:

Date Installed _____________________________________________

Company’s Name _________________________________________

Street or P.O. Box _________________________________________

City, State, and Zip Code ___________________________________

Phone Number _______________Plumber’s Name_______________

A O Smith Residential Gas Water Heater Instruction Manual GPHE 50 Vertex 197423 001 0606.p65

RESIDENTIAL GAS WATER HEATER to the manual 881481a6-9073-49b6-bb2d-af9664555b02

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