JBL Algae

: Aquarium Jbl-Algae JBL-Algae s

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Algae -

what now?

Recognize - combat -

prevent

For freshwater and

saltwater.

Before After

2 3

Algae - what now?

Algae - what now?

Thread algae (filamentous algae):

1. Mechanical removal: remove by twirling round a

hose/bottle brush.

2. Reduce the sectors of the light spectrum which

are conducive to algae: a very slight amber co-

louring to the water, hardly visible to

the human eye, acts like sunglasses,

filtering out the light which promotes

algae growth. This effect is achieved

by adding JBL Tropol to the aquari-

um.

3. Plant more fast-growing

plants such as hornwort,

hygrophila, water weed or

ambullia.

4. Prevent algae spreading by

using a UV-C water clarifier

which kills algae spores.

5. Use an algaecide: JBL

Algol.

Brush algae:

1. Immediate mechanical removal of

affected leaves. Cut off leaves at the

base (simple using JBL Aqua-Terra

Tool Scissors).

2. Remove algae from all equipment and

decorations using JBL PowerClean.

3. Loaches of the Garra family (e.g. Garra

pingi) feed on brush algae! Amano shrimp

keep brush algae in check, but are not sui-

table to radically annihilate it.

4. Clean up “messy corners” in the aquarium.

When changing water always “hoover” the sub-

strate with JBL AquaEX or JBL Aqua In-Out.

Encourage plant growth: use an iron and trace

element fertiliser such as JBL Ferropol. Limit

phosphate levels with JBL PhosExUltra or JBL

PhosEx Rapid if levels are very high.

5. Reduce current flow, decrease carbo-

nate hardness (in hard water).

6. The most important step is to increa-

se the CO2 content of the aquarium

water by using the JBL CO2 system.

7. Use an algaecide: JBL Algol

Step 1: Recognising and combating algae

Why is algae a problem?

Algae, like all other water organisms, is at home

in an aquarium and can’t be completely avoided.

As long as algae growth is within limits or is not

obvious, there is no need to be concerned.

However, vigorous algae growth can have dramatic

effects on the water (Illus. 1): algae are plants and

therefore produce oxygen during the day.

If the CO2 level in the water is no longer sufficient,

algae are able to extract CO2 from the carbona-

te hardness (CH). The result is a decrease in this

important water parameter, which in turn leads

to unstable pH levels. Now the pH level will drop

steeply at night (to levels as low as 4) and increa-

se to higher levels during the day (to levels above

10), which can mean the death of the aquarium

inhabitants.

At night, however, the situation is reversed and the

algae consume oxygen. Excessive algae growth

may cause the oxygen content to drop to critical

levels at night, endangering life in the aquarium

(Illus. 2). Aeration at night is recommended in this

case.

Furthermore, when exposed to light (i.e. during the

day) algae, like all aquatic plants, consume carbon

dioxide (CO2). This consumption may, in certain

circumstances, cause the pH level of the water to

increase dramatically (pH >9), creating an environ-

ment which is hazardous to life.

Finally, it should be pointed out that dead algae are

broken down by bac- teria in a process using

oxygen. The water therefore needs more

aeration when algae die!

Further measures on pages 8 - 11.

Thread algae Brush algae

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Slime and blue-green algae

(cyanobacteria):

Caution: can be mistaken for diatom!

Slime algae feel greasy and slimy and have an un-

pleasant smell when taken out of the water. Blue-

green algae feels rough in comparison.

1. Mechanical removal (siphoning off etc.), not a

long-term solution, however.

2. Improve the water quality (more frequent

chan-

ges of water, reduce nitrate and phosphate

levels, see page 6).

Spot algae (often

young brush algae):

1. Mechanical removal from

the panes using a glass cleaner

(JBL Aqua-T, Blanki, Floaty).

An excess of nutrients is often

the main cause of these algae,.

Further measures on

pages 8 - 11.

Floating algae = green water

(rare in an aquarium):

1. A UV-C water clarifier (JBL

Aqua-Cristal UV-C) is gu-

aranteed to remove floating

algae (green water) within

just a few days.

Caution: a fine filter material

(e.g. JBL MicroMec) is very efficient at

filtering out dead algae, but also quickly

becomes blocked and therefore has to be

changed more frequently.

Diatom:

Caution: sometimes mistaken for slime algae!

In comparison, diatom feel less slimy and more

rough. Both often occur in mixed cultures (dark

brown to black coating).

1.

Caused by the silicate level of

the water (mains / well water).

Use a JBL SilicateTest to esta-

blish whether silicate is present.

If silicate levels exceed 0.4

mg/l, a good silicate eliminator

(JBL SilicatEX) should be used.

2. In the event of high silicate levels

in mains water, an osmosis unit

can help by removing 95% of the

silicate.

3. Complicated but effective: an ion exchange unit

with special MP 600 synthetic resin specifically

removes diatom. If the ion exchange unit is used

in combination with a reverse osmosis unit, it

only needs to remove residual amounts (5%) of

the diatom which have “slipped through”, and

therefore lasts a very long time before it has to

be regenerated.

3. Either scatter JBL Filter-

Boost granulate on the

floor of the aquarium or

put in filter. The granu-

late is charged with spe-

cial bacteria which break

down organic nutrients

(sugar, proteins etc.),

which are often the cause

of blue-green algae.

4. Carry out a partial change of water.

Always usw a substrate-cleaner (JBL

AquaEX), instead of simply siphoning

off the water

Algae - what now?

2. JBL Clearol for the aquarium

acts as a coagulant, making

floating algae form clumps

which can be filtered out by the

filter or siphoned off.

Further measures on pages 8 - 11.

Recognising and combating algaeStep 1: Recognising and combating algaeStep 1:

Diatom Floating algaeSlimy and blue-green algae Spot algae

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Algae - what now?

7

Combating algae in saltwater:

More highly developed algae

(Caulerpa, Halimeda etc.):

These “decorative algae” (also known as macro-

algae) are usually desirable in a marine aquarium

because they are attractive and remove nitrates

and phosphates from the water. However, these al-

gae can also become a problem if they become too

overgrown as they can crowd out invertebrates. A

controlled number of “higher” algae is definitely

recommended.

Thread algae (filamentous algae):

Slight over-fertilising with the algae nutrients nitra-

te (NO3> 10 mg/l) and phosphate (PO4> 0.1 mg/l)

promotes the growth of unattractive thread algae.

Often calcium reactors have been incorrectly ad-

justed so that CO2 is released into the aquarium,

greatly promoting algae growth. A measureable

level of iron (Fe) often also leads to thread algae.

Diatom:

Caution: Sometimes mistaken for slime algae!

In comparison diatom do not feel

slimy, but rather rough. Both of-

ten occur in mixed cultures (dark

brown to black coating)

1. Caused by the silicate

level of the water (mains

/ well water). Use a JBL

SilicateTest to establish

whether silcate is present. If silicate le-

vels exceed 0.4 mg/l, a good silicate eli-

minator (JBL SilicatEX) should be used.

Slime algae:

Grow under both nutrient-poor as well as nutrient-

rich conditions (depending on type). Introduce

enemies which feed on algae such as spiny sea

urchin or hermit crabs. The water quality (redox

potential) and the carbonate hardness (KH) must

be increased. The redox potential indicates the

relationship between reducing (negative) and oxi-

dising (positive) processes in the water in millivolts

(mV/cm2) and can only be measured using a redox

measuring device. The more organic material (al-

gae, food remains, dead fish) that is broken down

in the water, the lower the redox potential drops.

2. In the event of high silicate levels in mains wa-

ter, an osmosis unit can help by removing 95%

of the silicate.

3. Complicated but effective: an ion exchange unit

with special MP 600 synthetic resin specifically

removes diatom. If the ion exchange unit is used

in combination with a reverse osmosis unit, it

only needs to remove residual amounts (5%) of

the diatom which have “slipped through”, and

therefore lasts a very long time before it has to

be regenerated.

The more “dirt” removed, the higher it increases

and high redox levels not only prevent slimy algae,

but also other unattractive “lower” forms of algae.

A redox measuring device is a highly effective tool

to get a grip on algae problems. The redox level in-

dicates the effectiveness of measures step by step:

if the level increases, the measures were success-

ful, if it decreases, the measures were inadequate.

The following measures also help: clean up “mes-

sy” corners, increase the water current, “interval”

current, clean filter foam with hydrogen peroxide

(H2O2).

Algae - what now?

Combating algae in saltwaterStep 1: Combating algae in saltwaterStep 1:

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Algae - what now?

Diatom Slime algae

More highly developed algae

Thread algae

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Algae - what now?

Algae - what now?

Deprive the algae of nourishment!

No single individual factor leads to the elimination

of algae problems. It is therefore essential that all

the factors listed in this brochure are addressed.

Identify the nutrients available to the algae: nitrate

(NO3) and phosphate (PO4) encourage the growth

of algae in an aquarium if the following levels are

exceeded:

Nitrate: 5-10 mg/l (JBL Nitrate Test)

Phosphate: 0.1 mg/l (JBL Phosphate Test sensitive)

How to eliminate algae

nutrients:

To eliminate nitrate in the aqua-

rium: use JBL BioNitratEX (bio-

logical long-term solution) or

JBL NitratEX: fast immediate

solution.

To eliminate phosphate in the

aquarium: either use a special

filter material (JBL PhosEX

ultra) or a liquid solution JBL

PhosEX rapid.

Nitrate-phosphate ratio

Scientific tests showed that the phosphate/nitrate

ratio has a major influence on algae growth. The

ideal ratio for freshwater plants is 1:32 (1 part

phosphate, 32 parts nitrate).

When this range, which is between 1:15 and a

maximum of 1:30, is exceeded algae growth in-

creases considerably, particularly green algae and

blue-green algae (Cyanobacteria). It therefore fol-

lows that selectively reducing a substance which

is available in excess (e.g. phosphate), reduces

algae growth.

Improve the quality of the water!

There are a few measures to maintain

water quality and general care

which must be followed:

Regular partial changes of

water in the aquarium: carry

out a 20% partial change of

water every two weeks using

a gravel cleaner (e.g. JBL

AquaEX or JBL

Aqua In-Out),

but only if the

mains water

does not con-

tain measurab-

le amounts of

phosphate or nitrate.

• carry out changes of water and filter

cleaning on different days.

•

use JBL ClearMec plus filter materi-

al (removes nitrite, nitrate and phos-

phate).

• vigorous algae growth can re-

duce the carbonate hardness in

the aquarium to zero. Carbonate

hardness keeps the pH level sta-

ble. If the carbonate hardness

(KH) drops below 4°dKH JBL

AquaDur plus should be used to

increase it to between 4 and 8.

• if the total hardness (GH) of the

aquarium water is far higher

than that of the mains water,

this indicates that the water

only needs to be regularly top-

ped up after evaporation,

rather than changed.

Prevention is better than cureStep 3: General algae-combating measuresStep 2:

By following steps 1 and 2 you will have algae pro-

blems under control. It is now important that pre-

ventative measures are taken in order to restrict

algae growth in the future.

Competition makes life difficult:

Aquatic plants and algae (which are also plants,

after all) compete for light and nutrients. However,

as aquatic plants have a more effective metabo-

lism than algae, algae usually have little chance

in densely planted aquariums. The solution is to

encourage plant growth and plant fast-growing

plants! (Illus. 1)

The following measures have been proven to pro-

mote vigorous plant growth:

• as you have probably already set up your aqua-

rium, a long-term nutrient substrate is not an

option. If you are setting up a new aquarium,

a long-term nutrient substrate (JBL AquaBa-

sis plus) is ideal

for perfect plant

growth right from

the start.

• feed your existing plants: the basic nutrient of

all plants is carbon dioxide (CO2), which is ad-

ded to the water by CO2 fertilising systems (JBL

Proflora CO2-System). (Illus. 3)

• In addition to the basic nutrient, CO2, plants also

require minerals and trace elements, which are

vital to healthy growth. Mineral deficiency can

lead to light green/transparent

leaves (Illus. 2). Use a basic

liquid fertiliser (JBL Ferropol)

each week and after every

change of water.

•

Delicate and sensitive aquatic plants require

nutrients which cannot be given weekly as a

long-term supply of fertili-

ser. The daily fertiliser JBL

Ferropol 24 also provides

plants with these vital tra-

ce elements, which would

be made ineffective by the

oxygen in the water if given

as a weekly “long-term“

supply

.

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10 11

Algae - what now?

Prevention is better than cureStep 3: Prevention is better than cureStep 3:

Algae - what now?

Lighting should consist of full-spectrum tubes

such as JBL SOLAR Tropic/Natur, which promote

plant growth. The spectrum of full-spectrum

tubes is more similar to natural sunlight and

therefore better for the photosynthesis of

plants than the spectrum in other types of

fluorescent tube, (two-strip or three-strip tu-

bes), as scientific experiments have proven.

Reddish, and in

particular, blue

shades of light tend to

encourage the growth

of algae – so caution

here!

If nutrients are present, direct sunlight promo-

tes the growth of algae and should therefore be

avoided.

Reduce the amount of

nutrients available for algae:

• remove dead plant and algae

residue as these release stored

nutrients again (nitrates and phos-

phates). Very simple to do this using

JBL AquaTerra Tool scissors. (Il-

lus. 1)

• improve the diet of the fish: plant-

eaters need vegetable matter (e.g. JBL

NovoVert/JBL Spirulina) and

predators need fish protein (e.g.

JBL Grana-Cichlid/JBL Novo-

Tanganjika).The wrong food

leads to increased pollution of

the water, as the food cannot be

completely digested and utilised.

• use low-phosphate food: JBL

food is not produced from high-

phosphate fishmeal, but from

pure proteins from aquatic ani-

mals. Change to JBL granulates e.g.

JBL NovoGranoMix or

flakes such as JBL NovoBel.

• take advantage of the

“sun-glass” light-filtering

effect by adding JBL Tropol

to the water. This gives the water a

light amber colouring which filters

out excess light. Most tropical fish

feel

more at home in this water as

it is closer to their natural habitat.

(Illus. 2)

Live helpers against algae:

Long-term measures against algae, which have

the added advantage of looking attractive, are in-

vertebrates and fish which keep algae “in check”.

The following have proved to be good algae-eaters:

Fish:

Wide-mouthed sisoroid catfish (Chaetostoma spec.)

(1), doctor fish (Garra spec.) (2), dwarf sucking cat-

fish (Otocinclus spec.) (3), some Peckoltia plecos

(4), Farowella gracilis (5) (catfish), Siamese algae-

eater (Epalzeorhynchus siamensis) (6), pitbull ple-

cos (Parotocinclus jumbo) (7) and pongo characin

(Parodon spec.) (8).

Shrimp:

The Armano shrimp (Caridina

multidentata) are considered the best consumers

of algae amongst the shrimp.

Caution: many fish consider shrimp to be delica-

cies!

Sea slugs and snails:

Many types of slugs and snails are excellent algae-

eaters. Care should be taken, however, that they do

not become too prolific.

Note: loaches and puffer fish eat slugs and snails.

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This information has been supplied by your JBL Partner:

JBL GmbH & Co. KG

67141 Neuhofen

Germany

www.JBL.de

97014 10 V03