Brother Hc1850 Owner S Manual F3dash BrotherE_sgml
NX 600 UM_NX_600_EN_191
NX 600 to the manual 20057ed8-0d6b-e414-c58a-8bf3a16fa0ca
2014-07-05
: Brother Brother-Hc1850-Owner-S-Manual brother-hc1850-owner-s-manual brother pdf
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GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX CPS5X V[Y Computerized Sewing Machine Operation Manual Enclosed Accessories After opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your retailer. Accessories The following items should also be enclosed in the box. Note (For U.S.A. only) z Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-600. z Screw of the presser foot holder (Part code: XA4813051). z Organized accessory tray (Part code: XC4489-051) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.* 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 34. 35. 32. 33. *75/11 2 needles 90/14 2 needles 90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored) No. Part Name 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Buttonhole foot "A" Overcasting foot "G" Monogramming foot "N" Zipper foot "I" Zigzag foot "J" (on machine) Blind stitch foot "R" Button fitting foot "M" Walking foot Quilting foot Stitch guide foot "P" Adjustable zipper/piping foot Non stick foot Open toe foot 1/4 inch quilting foot Side cutter U.S.A. SA140 SA129 SA160 SA161 SA114 SA147 SA125 SA177 Part Code Others XC2691-051 XC3098-051 X53840-351 X59370-051 XC3021-051 X56409-051 130489-001 F033N (XC2214-002) F005N (XC1948-002) F035 (XA8839-002) F036N (XC1970-002) F007N (XC1949-002) F027N (XC1964-002) F001N (XC1944-002) F054 (XC3879-002) No. 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 Part Name Needle set Twin needle Cleaning brush Eyelet punch Screwdriver (large) Screwdriver (small) Spool cap (large) Spool cap (medium)(2) Spool cap (small) Extra spool pin Spool net Foot controller Grid sheet set Knee lifter Operation manual 16 Quilting guide SA132 F016N (XC2215-002) 34 Quick reference guide 17 Seam ripper 18 Bobbin (4) SA156 Cover A X54243-001 SFB (XA5539-151) 35 Hard case Part Code Others X58358-051 X59296-051 X59476-051 135793-001 X55467-051 X55468-051 130012-054 X55260-153 130013-154 XC4654-051 XA5523-050 XC1154-051 SA527 GS4 (XC4549-051) XA6941-052 XC5427-051 XC4546-151, XC5434-051 XC2360-152 U.S.A. Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions Front view 1 3 4 5 6 B 7 8 SEWING BASICS C GETTING READY 2 CONTENTS The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts. A 9 a Thread guide plate b Thread guide cover Pass the thread around the thread guide plate when threading the upper thread. d Thread guide for bobbin winding Pass the thread around this thread guide when winding the bobbin thread. e Upper cover Open the upper cover to place the spool of thread on the spool pin. k Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory compartment of the flat bed attachment. When sewing cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment. l Thread cutter Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. m Needle threader lever Use the needle threader to thread the needle. APPENDIX c Spool pin Place the spool on the spool pin. j Operation buttons Use the operation buttons to start the sewing machine and automatically cut the thread. (page Cover D) UTILITY STITCHES 0 f Bobbin winder Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin. h Sewing speed controller Use the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed. i Knee lifter mounting slot Plug the knee lifter into the knee lifter mounting slot. Cover B INDEX g Operation panel Select a stitch from those that appear in the operation panel. (page Cover E) Right-side/rear view Needle and presser foot section CONTENTS 1 2 1 2 3 3 4 8 5 8 7 5 7 6 a Presser foot dial Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric. b Thread guide discs Pass the thread through the thread guide discs when using the needle threader to thread the needle. b Handle Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine. c Needle bar thread hook Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread hook. c Balance wheel Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise and lower the needle to sew one stitch. d Needle plate The needle plate is marked with guides for sewing straight seams. d Air vent The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to be exchanged. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing machine is being used. e Bobbin cover/Shuttle Remove the bobbin cover, and then insert the bobbin into the shuttle. f Feed dogs The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction. h Presser foot holder The presser foot is installed onto the presser foot holder. f Foot controller jack Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable into the foot controller jack. g Power supply jack Insert the plug on the power supply cord into the power supply jack. h Feed dog position switch Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs. APPENDIX g Presser foot The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the fabric as the sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the selected stitching. e Main power switch Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine on and off. UTILITY STITCHES a Buttonhole lever Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks. SEWING BASICS 6 GETTING READY 4 Memo z Refer to Cover B, D or E pages while you are learning to use your machine. INDEX Cover C Operation buttons 2 3 1 4 6 When the machine is ready to start sewing or while it is sewing Red: When the machine is not ready to start sewing Orange: When the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right for winding the bobbin thread onto the bobbin b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. For details, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 50). d Thread cutter button Press the thread cutter button after stopping sewing to cut both the upper and the bobbin threads. For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 51). Note z Do not press the thread cutter button if there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur. z When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon thread or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine. For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 51). APPENDIX c Needle position button Press the needle position button to raise or lower the needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch. ● Do not press the thread cutter button after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur. UTILITY STITCHES Green: CAUTION SEWING BASICS a Start/stop button Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending on how the sewing machine is being operated. GETTING READY 5 CONTENTS The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations. e Sewing speed controller Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing speed. Cover D INDEX f Presser foot lever Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower the presser foot. Operation panel CONTENTS The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings. 1 GETTING READY 2 4 5 6 7 3 8 9 0 SEWING BASICS b Sewing machine help key Press this key to display operation information. Simple descriptions on threading the upper thread, installing the bobbin, winding the bobbin and replacing the presser foot can be displayed. h Back key Press this key to return to the previous screen. i Settings key Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching, or other settings such as the operation beep. j Stitch keys Use these keys to quickly select one of 12 of the most often used stitches. For details, refer to "Selecting Stitching" (page 66). UTILITY STITCHES a LCD (liquid crystal display) Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys b through i, described below, to display various items and select the settings. For details, refer to "Understanding the LCD Screens" (page 12). APPENDIX c Stitch selection key Press this key to select the desired type of stitch. d + key Press this key to add a pattern when sewing combinations of characters or decorative stitches. e C key Press this key to remove an added pattern when sewing combinations of characters or decorative stitches. INDEX f Arrow keys Use these keys to move in the indicated direction when selecting an item displayed on the screen. In addition, can be pressed to select a lower setting and can be pressed to select a higher setting. g OK key Press this key to apply the selected item. Cover E Optional Accessories Optional Accessories CONTENTS The following are available as optional accessories. 1. GETTING READY 1. Wide table Part code: SA537, WT2 (XC4541-051) Memo z To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact your sales representative or the nearest authorized service center. SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 1 ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Introduction CONTENTS Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the "Important Safety Instructions" (page 6), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future reference. Sewing Machine Features GETTING READY 1 5 6 7 4 a Easy upper threading Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition, the needle can be threaded with a simple operation. (page 24) c Automatic thread-cutting The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the thread at the end of the stitching. (page 58) d One-touch lower threading You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. (page 22) e Simple bobbin-winding The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread. (page 18) APPENDIX b Full auto upper thread tension The thread tension is adjusted automatically. UTILITY STITCHES 3 SEWING BASICS 2 f Built-in stitches You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches. Twelve of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the stitch keys. (page 66) 2 INDEX g Knee lifter Use the knee lifter to raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric. (page 61) ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Contents CONTENTS Enclosed Accessories ............................................................................................... Cover A Accessories ............................................................................................................................................ Cover A Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ......................................................... Cover B Optional Accessories...........................................................................................................1 Introduction ........................................................................................................................2 Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................2 Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................6 GETTING READY 9 SEWING BASICS Turning the Machine On/Off.............................................................................................10 GETTING READY Front view ...............................................................................................................................................Cover B Needle and presser foot section .................................................................................................................................................. Cover C Right-side/rear view .............................................................................................................................. Cover C Operation buttons .................................................................................................................................. Cover D Operation panel...................................................................................................................................... Cover E Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 10 Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11 Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 11 Understanding the LCD Screens........................................................................................12 Checking machine operating procedures ........................................................................................................ 13 Changing the Machine Settings .........................................................................................14 UTILITY STITCHES Changing the settings ...................................................................................................................................... 14 Changing the needle stop position .................................................................................................................. 16 Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ................................................................................................................ 16 Changing the screen language......................................................................................................................... 17 Winding/Installing the Bobbin...........................................................................................18 Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 18 Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 18 Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 22 Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................24 Threading the upper thread ............................................................................................................................. 24 Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 27 Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 28 Using thread that winds off quickly ................................................................................................................. 31 Pulling up the bobbin thread........................................................................................................................... 31 APPENDIX Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................33 Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 33 Needle types and their uses............................................................................................................................. 34 Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 35 Replacing the needle....................................................................................................................................... 35 Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................37 INDEX Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 37 Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 37 Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ........................................................................................................ 39 Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................... 39 Using the walking foot .................................................................................................................................... 40 Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces....................................................................................42 Stitching cylindrical pieces.............................................................................................................................. 42 Sewing large pieces of fabric ........................................................................................................................... 42 SEWING BASICS 45 Sewing...............................................................................................................................46 3 ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................53 Thread tension ................................................................................................................................................ 53 Changing the tension of the upper thread........................................................................................................ 54 Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................55 CONTENTS General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 46 Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 47 Starting to sew................................................................................................................................................. 48 Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 50 Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 51 Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 55 Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 56 Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ....................................................................................... 57 Automatically cutting the thread ..................................................................................................................... 58 Saving stitch settings ....................................................................................................................................... 60 Hands-free raising and lifting of the presser foot .............................................................................................. 61 Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................62 UTILITY STITCHES 65 Selecting Stitching ............................................................................................................. 66 Stitch types...................................................................................................................................................... 66 Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 66 Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G" .................................................................................... 68 Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J" ............................................................................................. 69 Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter ............................................................................................. 70 Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................72 Basting ............................................................................................................................................................ 72 Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 73 Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................74 Buttonhole Stitching..........................................................................................................76 UTILITY STITCHES Overcasting Stitches..........................................................................................................68 SEWING BASICS Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 62 Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 62 Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 62 Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 63 Sewing thin fabrics.......................................................................................................................................... 63 Sewing stretch fabrics...................................................................................................................................... 63 Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics ....................................................................................................................... 64 Sewing an even seam allowance ..................................................................................................................... 64 GETTING READY Useful Functions................................................................................................................57 Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 77 Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 81 Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 83 Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 85 Zipper/piping Insertion .....................................................................................................88 Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 88 Inserting a piping ............................................................................................................................................ 89 APPENDIX Zipper Insertion.................................................................................................................83 Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................ 90 Stretch stitching............................................................................................................................................... 90 Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 90 Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................92 Reinforcement Stitching ..................................................................................................100 Triple stretch stitching ................................................................................................................................... 100 4 INDEX Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 93 Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 94 Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 94 Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 96 Free-motion quilting........................................................................................................................................ 97 Satin stitching.................................................................................................................................................. 98 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Bar tack stitching........................................................................................................................................... 100 Darning......................................................................................................................................................... 102 CONTENTS Eyelet Stitching ................................................................................................................104 Horizontal Stitching ........................................................................................................105 Decorative Stitching........................................................................................................107 Fagoting ........................................................................................................................................................ 108 Scallop stitching............................................................................................................................................ 109 Smocking ...................................................................................................................................................... 109 Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 110 Joining .......................................................................................................................................................... 111 Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 112 GETTING READY Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns.............................................................115 Designing a Pattern .........................................................................................................126 Drawing a sketch of the pattern..................................................................................................................... 126 Entering the pattern data ............................................................................................................................... 127 Examples of designs ...................................................................................................................................... 129 APPENDIX 131 SEWING BASICS Sewing beautiful patterns .............................................................................................................................. 115 Sewing patterns............................................................................................................................................. 115 Combining patterns....................................................................................................................................... 116 Repeat sewing patterns.................................................................................................................................. 117 Checking the selected pattern ....................................................................................................................... 118 Changing the pattern size .............................................................................................................................. 119 Changing the stitch density ........................................................................................................................... 120 Changing the pattern length .......................................................................................................................... 120 Shifting patterns ............................................................................................................................................ 121 Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................ 122 Storing a pattern............................................................................................................................................ 123 Realigning the pattern ................................................................................................................................... 124 UTILITY STITCHES Stitch Settings..................................................................................................................132 Utility stitches ............................................................................................................................................... 132 Other stitches................................................................................................................................................ 137 Maintenance....................................................................................................................140 Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 140 Cleaning the shuttle ...................................................................................................................................... 140 Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................142 Index ................................................................................................................................ 150 APPENDIX Error messages .............................................................................................................................................. 146 Nothing appears in the LCD .......................................................................................................................... 147 Easily adjusting the thread tension................................................................................................................. 147 Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................. 148 Cancelling the operation beep ...................................................................................................................... 148 Removing the upper cover ............................................................................................................................ 149 INDEX 5 ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Important Safety Instructions Read all instructions before using. DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons: 6 INDEX SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS This machine is intended for household use. APPENDIX 14.Switch the machine to the symbol " " position when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like. 15.Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. 16.This sewing machine is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without supervision. 17.Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with this machine. 18.If the Light unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer. UTILITY STITCHES 8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol " " position which represents off, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. 10.Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle. 11.Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 12.Do not use bent needles. 13.Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. SEWING BASICS 1. Do not allow this machine to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot control free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 6. Do not use outdoors. 7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. GETTING READY 1. The machine should never be left unattended while plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. CONTENTS When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following: ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY If this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following. If the available socket outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, it should be cut off and an appropriate three-pin plug fitted. With alternative plugs an approved fuse must be fitted in the plug. GETTING READY NOTE The plug served from the main lead must be destroyed as a plug with bared flexible cords is hazardous if engaged in a live socket outlet. In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the mark, rating as marked on plug. Always replace the fuse cover, never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted. WARNING DO NOT CONNECT EITHER WIRE TO THE EARTH TERMINAL WHICH IS MARKED WITH THE OR COLOURED GREEN OR GREEN AND YELLOW. SEWING BASICS LETTER ‘E’, BY THE EARTH SYMBOL The wires in this main lead are colored in accordance with the following code: Blue Neutral Brown Live CONTENTS IMPORTANT The wire which is colored blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘N’ or colored black or blue. The wire which is colored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter ‘L’ or colored red or brown. UTILITY STITCHES As the colors of the wiring in the main lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colored markings identifying the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows. APPENDIX INDEX 7 ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE • • • • • Operation is completed Replacing or removing the needle or any other parts A power failure occurs during use Maintaining the machine Leaving the machine unattended For repair or adjustment In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer. APPENDIX For additional product information and updates, visit our web site at www.brother.com UTILITY STITCHES For a longer service life 1. When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects. 2. Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders can damage the case and machine, and should never be used. 3. Do not drop or hit the machine. 4. Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet, needle, or other parts to assure correct installation. SEWING BASICS 3. Do not store anything on the foot controller. 4. Plug the machine directly into the wall. Do not use extension cords. GETTING READY For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle while sewing. Do not touch the hand wheel, thread takeup lever, needle, or other moving parts. 2. Remember to turn off the power switch and unplug the cord when: CONTENTS Your machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully enjoy all the features, we suggest that you study the manual before using the machine. INDEX 8 CONTENTS 1 GETTING READY Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................10 Understanding the LCD Screens..............................................................................12 Changing the Machine Settings ...............................................................................14 GETTING READY The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter. Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................18 Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................33 Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................37 Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................42 SEWING BASICS Upper Threading .....................................................................................................24 UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Turning the Machine On/Off Power supply precautions CONTENTS This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off. Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply. CAUTION UTILITY STITCHES ● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them. Fire or electric shock may result. ● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result. ● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric shock. ● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted, or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged, take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use. ● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a fire may result. SEWING BASICS ● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine. ● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances: • When you are away from the machine • After using the machine • When the power fails during use • When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection • During electrical storms GETTING READY WARNING APPENDIX INDEX 10 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Turning on the machine Turning off the machine When you are finished using the sewing machine, turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing machine to another location, be sure to turn it off. Insert the plug of the power supply cord into a b the right side of the machine (set it to " b household electrical outlet. a Make sure that the machine is not sewing. Press the left side of the main power switch on "). c on the right side of the machine (set it to "|"). Press the right side of the main power switch Unplug the power supply cord from the Grasp the plug when unplugging the power supply cord. d supply jack. Unplug the power supply cord from the power X The sewing lamp and the LCD come on when the machine is turned on. APPENDIX (For U.S.A. only) z This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way. UTILITY STITCHES Note z When the sewing machine is turned off, all stitch settings are cancelled. z If a power outage occurs while the sewing machine is being operated, turn off the sewing machine and unplug the power supply cord. When restarting the sewing machine, follow the necessary procedure to correctly operate the machine. SEWING BASICS a Power supply jack c electrical outlet. GETTING READY X The sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off. 1 CONTENTS Make sure that the sewing machine is turned "), and then plug the power supply cord into the power supply jack on the right side of the machine. a off (the main power switch is set to " INDEX Turning the Machine On/Off 11 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Understanding the LCD Screens 1 Presser foot that should be used Single or twin needle Selected stitch Stitch length (mm) Stitch width (mm) Upper thread tension Memo z For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to "Error messages" (page 146). SEWING BASICS a b c d e f 4 5 6 GETTING READY 2 3 CONTENTS The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly.When the sewing machine is turned on, the LCD comes on and the following screen appears. UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 12 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Simple descriptions on replacing the presser foot, threading the upper thread, winding the bobbin and installing the bobbin can be displayed in the LCD. a When you are finished with the help screen, (OK key). f press X The initial stitch screen appears again. Turn on the sewing machine. Note X The LCD comes on. Press (Sewing machine help key) in the SEWING BASICS b operation panel. X The sewing machine help screen appears. c image illustrating desired topic is selected. Press , , and (Arrow keys) until the 1 2 3 4 Replacing the presser foot Threading the upper thread Winding the bobbin Installing the bobbin Press (OK key). To display the next screen, press . APPENDIX X The first screen describing the procedure for the selected topic appears. e to the previous screen, press UTILITY STITCHES a b c d GETTING READY z For details on each topic, refer to the corresponding page in this Operation Manual. d CONTENTS Checking machine operating procedures . To return Example: Upper threading INDEX Understanding the LCD Screens 13 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the Machine Settings Changing the settings CONTENTS Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed. The general procedure for changing machine settings is described below. Turn on the sewing machine. b Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. c stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set Press , , and (Arrow keys) until the is selected. SEWING BASICS X The LCD comes on. GETTING READY a UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX d Press (OK key). X A screen containing settings for the selected attribute appears. Press , , and (Arrow keys) until the X The setting is changed. f 14 Press (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. INDEX e desired setting is selected. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ List of stitch or machine attributes The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the corresponding reference page. Icon Details Reference page 57 Automatic thread-cutting Specifies automatic thread-cutting. page 58 Check pattern Allows combined patterns to be checked. page 118 Left/right mirror imaging Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis. page 122 Pattern length Adjusts the length of satin stitches. page 120 Pattern size Sets the size of patterns to be large or small. page 119 Repeated/ single sewing Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or repeatedly. page 117 Stitching density Specifies the sewing density of the stitching. page 120 Save settings Allows adjusted thread tensions and pattern widths and lengths to be saved. page 60 Needle position Specifies where the needle is positioned when the sewing machine is stopped. page 16 Twin needle sewing Specifies the twin needle. page 28 Stitch width control Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing speed controller. page 98 Language Allows the language used in the screens to be changed. page 17 Buzzer Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each operation. page 148 LCD brightness Adjusts the brightness of the LCD. page 16 Vertical pattern adjustment Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern. page 124 Horizontal pattern adjustment Adjusts the left and right position of the pattern. page 124 Changing the Machine Settings 15 INDEX Specifies automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching. APPENDIX Automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching UTILITY STITCHES page 53 SEWING BASICS Adjusts the tension of the upper thread. GETTING READY Thread tension CONTENTS Attribute GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped. Adjusting the brightness of the LCD The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted. a and then press Press until (Settings key) in the operation panel, , , and (Arrow keys) is selected. b b Press (OK key). Press (OK key). X The screen for changing the brightness of the LCD appears. To make the LCD brighter, press (–). To (+). c make the LCD darker, press Press to select . , press . X The brightness of the LCD is changed. X The machine is now set to stop with the needle in the raised position. d Press d Press (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. UTILITY STITCHES c To return to SEWING BASICS X The screen for changing the needle stop position appears. GETTING READY Press (Settings key) in the operation panel, a and then press , , and (Arrow keys) until is selected. CONTENTS Changing the needle stop position (OK key). APPENDIX X The initial stitch screen appears again. INDEX 16 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the screen language CONTENTS The language used in the screens that are displayed can be changed to one of the many available. a and then press Press (Settings key) in the operation panel, , , and (Arrow keys) is selected. until Press GETTING READY b (OK key). X The screen for changing the language of the screens appears. Press or until the desired language is SEWING BASICS c selected. The language can be changed to one of the available: English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Italian, Danish, Norwegian, Finnish, Swedish, Portuguese, Russian, Japanese, Korean or others. UTILITY STITCHES X The language of the screens is changed. d Press (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. APPENDIX INDEX Changing the Machine Settings 17 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Winding/Installing the Bobbin Bobbin precautions CONTENTS This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread. Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin. ● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine. ● The enclosed bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)). GETTING READY CAUTION Actual size SEWING BASICS 11.5 mm (7/16 inch) This model Older model Winding the bobbin 1 APPENDIX a Bobbin winder UTILITY STITCHES Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread. Memo z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated. INDEX 18 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— a Turn on the sewing machine. f the spool pin. Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto b Lift open the upper cover. Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so c that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin. positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible until the right side of the spool touches the right end of the spool pin. 2 Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right. 2 1 e spool pin. Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the 1 • When using a spool of cross-wound thread, install the small spool cap with some space between the cap and the spool. 2 1 3 a Spool b Gap c Spool cap (small) Winding/Installing the Bobbin 19 INDEX 2 a Spool pin b Spool cap APPENDIX 3 a Spool cap (large) b Spool cap (medium) c Spool UTILITY STITCHES a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring • Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small). Use the spool cap with a diameter that is slightly larger than the diameter of the spool. The medium-sized spool cap is already on the spool pin when the sewing machine is purchased. SEWING BASICS 1 Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin. g With the rounded side of the spool cap GETTING READY • If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unrolls correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin. d CONTENTS Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unrolls from the bottom front of the spool. GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— j hook on the thread guide for bobbin winding, Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the CAUTION and then wind it counterclockwise between the discs. 1 1 While holding the spool with your right hand, pass the thread behind the thread guide cover to the front. a Thread guide for bobbin winding k the thread that wraps around the thread guide While using your left hand to hold the end of 1 a Thread guide cover Pull the thread to the right and pass it through l the slit in the bobbin winder seat. APPENDIX Pass the thread under the thread guide plate i from the right. UTILITY STITCHES for bobbin winding, use your right hand to wind the free end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin four or five times. SEWING BASICS h pull the thread with your left hand, and then GETTING READY ● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break. CONTENTS ● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break. 1 a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter) X The thread is cut to a suitable length. 20 INDEX 1 a Thread guide plate ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left. r Remove the bobbin from the shaft. CONTENTS GETTING READY ● Be sure to cut the thread as described on the previous page. If the bobbin is wound without cutting the thread using the cutter built into the slit in the bobbin winder seat, the thread may become tangled in the bobbin or the needle may bend or break when the bobbin thread starts to run out. q m (so that the speed will be fast). Slide the sewing speed controller to the right 1 CAUTION a Sewing speed controller n Press (Start/stop button) once. ● Use a bobbin thread that has been correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. UTILITY STITCHES 1 a Start/stop button X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is wound around the bobbin. o Press (Start/stop button) once. Memo z When the sewing machine is started or the balance wheel is turned after winding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfunction. X The sewing machine stops. APPENDIX X The bobbin stops spinning when it is full. SEWING BASICS Slide the sewing speed controller back to its s original position. p wound around the bobbin. Use scissors to cut the end of the thread INDEX Winding/Installing the Bobbin 21 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— b Installing the bobbin Remove the bobbin cover. c the end of the thread with your left. Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold CAUTION • Be careful not to drop the bobbin. Insert the bobbin into the shuttle so that the d thread unrolls to the left. Actual size Lightly hold down the bobbin with your right e hand, and then guide the thread as shown with your left hand. This model Older model Memo z The order that the bobbin thread should be passed through the shuttle is indicated by marks around the shuttle. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated. Pass the thread through the slot as shown, and a Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right. 1 2 APPENDIX f then pull the thread out toward the front. UTILITY STITCHES 11.5 mm (7/16 inch) • Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly. SEWING BASICS ● The bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from older models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the enclosed bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539151)). GETTING READY ● Use a bobbin thread that has been correctly wound, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. CONTENTS Install the bobbin wound with thread. 1 X The bobbin cover opens. 22 X The cutter cuts the thread. INDEX a Cutter a Bobbin cover b Latch ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION CONTENTS ● Be sure to hold down the bobbin with your finger and unroll the bobbin thread correctly, otherwise the thread may break or the thread tension will be incorrect. g Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the Reattach the bobbin cover. GETTING READY bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side. 2 1 SEWING BASICS X The lower threading is finished. Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with the procedure in "Upper Threading" (on the next page). Memo UTILITY STITCHES z You can begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up the thread according to the procedure in "Pulling up the bobbin thread" (page 31). APPENDIX INDEX Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Upper Threading CONTENTS In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described. GETTING READY SEWING BASICS ● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break. Threading the upper thread Turn on the sewing machine. b Raise the presser foot lever. APPENDIX a Memo z The order that the machine should be threaded is indicated by a solid line on the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated. UTILITY STITCHES CAUTION 1 X The presser foot is raised. • If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded correctly. 24 INDEX a Presser foot lever ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— c twice to raise the needle. Press (Needle position button) once or f spool pin. Place the spool for the upper thread onto the 1 • If the needle is not correctly raised, the sewing machine cannot be threaded. Check that the mark on the balance wheel is facing up as shown in the illustration below. If the balance wheel is not in this position, be sure to press the needle position button to raise the needle before using the needle threader. d Lift open the upper cover. positioned toward the left, slide the spool cap onto the spool pin as far as possible until the right side of the spool touches the right end of the spool pin. • Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small). Use the spool cap with a diameter that is slightly larger than the diameter of the spool. The medium-sized spool cap is already on the spool pin when the sewing machine is purchased. 2 1 Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the 1 3 a Spool cap (large) b Spool cap (medium) c Spool • When using a spool of cross-wound thread, install the small spool cap with some space between the cap and the spool. 2 1 INDEX 2 a Spool pin b Spool cap APPENDIX e spool pin. UTILITY STITCHES a Mark on balance wheel Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin. g With the rounded side of the spool cap SEWING BASICS 1 • If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unrolls correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin. GETTING READY a Needle position button CONTENTS Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unrolls from the bottom front of the spool. 3 a Spool b Gap c Spool cap (small) Upper Threading 25 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— j passed under the thread guide plate taut, pass While using your right hand to hold the thread CAUTION the thread through the guides in the order (up → left → down → up → down) shown. 1 a Shutter While holding the spool with your right hand, pass the thread behind the thread guide cover to the front. 1 SEWING BASICS h pull the thread with your left hand, and then The following diagram shows the shutter position when the presser foot is lowered. Since the shutter is closed when the presser foot is lowered, the machine cannot be threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot so that the shutter is open in order to thread the machine. GETTING READY ● Three spool cap sizes are available (large, medium and small), allowing you to choose a spool cap that best fits the size of spool being used. If the spool cap is too small for the spool being used, the thread may catch on the slit in the spool or the needle may break. CONTENTS ● If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly, the thread may become tangled around the spool pin or the needle may break. 1 k base of the needle bar. Pass the thread through the thread hook at the a Thread guide cover UTILITY STITCHES a Shutter Pass the thread under the thread guide plate 1 1 a Needle bar thread hook Next, use the needle threader to thread the needle. Continue with the procedure in "Threading the needle" (on the next page). 26 INDEX a Thread guide plate APPENDIX i from the right. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— c Threading the needle Lower the presser foot lever. CONTENTS The needle threader can be used with needle size 75/11 through 100/16. For more details on the needle, refer to "Needle types and their uses" (page 34). a passed through the needle bar thread hook, With your left hand, hold the end of the thread 1 1 a Presser foot lever X The presser foot is lowered. d Lower the needle threader lever until it clicks. 1 SEWING BASICS a Needle threader lever 3 e a Thread guide discs b Pass to the back. c Pass through the slit. Release the needle threader lever. Carefully pull on the loop of thread passed f through the eye of the needle to pull out the b of the machine. Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side end of the thread. UTILITY STITCHES X The thread is passed through the eye of the needle. 2 GETTING READY and then pass the thread through the thread guide discs from the front to the back. 1 g through the presser foot, and then pull out Raise the presser foot lever, pass the thread a Thread cutter APPENDIX 5 about 5 cm (2 inch) of thread toward the rear of the machine. INDEX 1 a 5 cm (2 inch) X The upper threading is finished. Upper Threading 27 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Now that the upper threading and the lower threading are finished, you are ready to begin sewing. With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of the same stitch with two different threads. Both upper threads should have the same thickness and quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra spool pin and the spool cap. For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). CONTENTS Note GETTING READY z If the needle is not raised, the needle threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure to press the needle position button to raise the needle before using the needle threader. z If the twin needle is installed, the needle threader cannot be used. For details, refer to "Using the twin needle" (at the right). Using the twin needle ● Only use the twin needle (part code: X59296-051). Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. ● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries. Install the twin needle. • For details on installing a needle, refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 35). b eye. Thread the upper thread for the left needle • For details, refer to steps a through k of "Threading the upper thread" (page 24). Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front. APPENDIX Manually thread the left needle with the upper c thread. UTILITY STITCHES a SEWING BASICS CAUTION INDEX • The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged. 28 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— • For details, refer to step h through j of "Threading the upper thread" (page 24). d winder shaft. Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin Without passing the thread through the needle h bar thread hook, manually thread the right 1 needle. Pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front. Swing down the spool pin so that it is e horizontal. i f the right side onto the extra spool pin, and 2 ● When using the twin needle, be sure to attach zigzag foot "J", otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. j X The LCD comes on. Thread the upper thread in the same way that g the upper thread for the left side was threaded. 1 k Press l Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. APPENDIX a Spool cap b Spool Turn on the sewing machine. UTILITY STITCHES 1 • For details on changing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). CAUTION Place the upper thread spool for the needle on then secure it with the spool cap. The thread should unroll from the top front of the spool. Attach zigzag foot "J". SEWING BASICS • The needle threader cannot be used with the twin needle. If the needle threader is used with the twin needle, the sewing machine may be damaged. GETTING READY a Bobbin winder shaft CONTENTS Insert the extra spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft. X The settings screen appears. , , and is selected. (Arrow keys) until INDEX a Thread guide cover Upper Threading 29 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— m Press (OK key). Start sewing. • For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other. Press . X The twin needle can now be used. o Press (OK key). CAUTION ● When using the twin needle, be sure to select the twin needle setting, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. Select a stitch. • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). APPENDIX p UTILITY STITCHES • Even after the sewing machine is turned off, the twin needle setting is not cancelled. ● When changing the sewing direction, press (Needle position button) to raise the needle from the fabric, and then raise the presser foot lever and turn the fabric. SEWING BASICS X The initial stitch screen appears again, and appears in the lower-left corner of the screen. CAUTION GETTING READY to select . , press n To return to CONTENTS X The screen for selecting the twin needle appears. q CAUTION 30 INDEX ● When using the twin needle, be sure to select an appropriate stitch, otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread, place the enclosed spool net over the spool before placing the spool of thread onto the spool pin. If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the size of the spool. a Insert the bobbin into the shuttle. • Refer to steps a through e of "Installing the bobbin" (page 22). Pass the bobbin thread through the slot. While lightly holding the upper thread with (Needle position button) twice to raise the needle. SEWING BASICS 2 When making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described below. GETTING READY 1 Pulling up the bobbin thread CONTENTS Using thread that winds off quickly b Do not cut the thread with the cutter. 3 4 a b c d Spool net Spool Spool cap Spool pin c your left hand, press 1 X The bobbin thread is looped around the upper thread and can be pulled up. APPENDIX Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull d out the end of the bobbin thread. UTILITY STITCHES a Needle position button INDEX Upper Threading 31 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Pull out about 5 cm (2 inch) of the bobbin e thread under the presser foot toward the rear of the machine. CONTENTS bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on the right side. 2 SEWING BASICS 1 GETTING READY Reattach the bobbin cover. f Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 32 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replacing the Needle CONTENTS This section provides information on sewing machine needles. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions below. ● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine. ● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries. GETTING READY CAUTION SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX Replacing the Needle 33 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Needle types and their uses Thread Fabric Type/Application Size of Needle Type Cotton thread Taffeta Synthetic thread Flannel, Gabardine Silk thread Lawn Cotton thread Georgette Synthetic thread Challis, Satin Silk thread 50–80 Denim Cotton thread 30–50 Corduroy Synthetic thread 60–80 75/11–90/14 50–80 60–80 Thin fabrics Thick fabrics 90/14–100/16 50 Tweed Stretch fabrics 65/9–75/11 Silk thread Jersey Thread for knits Ball point needle (golden colored) 75/11–90/14 50–80 65/9–90/14 30 90/14–100/16 Tricot Cotton thread Easily frayed fabrics Synthetic thread Silk thread Synthetic thread For top-stitching Silk thread ● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the table above. If the combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing thick fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches. INDEX 34 CAUTION APPENDIX Memo z The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread, and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle. z Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur. z Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with transparent nylon threads, regardless of the fabric being sewn. z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the sewing machine is purchased. UTILITY STITCHES 50–60 SEWING BASICS Broadcloth GETTING READY Medium weight fabrics Size CONTENTS The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Checking the needle Replace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to be straight according to the instructions in "Checking the needle". CONTENTS Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous since the needle may break while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. Replacing the needle a twice to raise the needle. Press (Needle position button) once or GETTING READY 1 2 1 a Needle position button b ■ Correct needle Turn off the sewing machine. CAUTION a Flat surface ■ Incorrect needle If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use a bent needle. ● Before replacing the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. Lower the presser foot lever. APPENDIX c UTILITY STITCHES 1 SEWING BASICS a Flat side b Needle type marking 1 a Flat surface 1 Replacing the Needle 35 INDEX a Presser foot lever GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp Hold the needle with your left hand, and then screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. ● Be sure to insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper and securely tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may break or damage may result. CONTENTS 1 CAUTION 2 • Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw, otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged. With the flat side of the needle toward the rear touches the needle stopper. While holding the needle with your left hand, clamp screw. APPENDIX Install the twin needle in the same way. UTILITY STITCHES f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle SEWING BASICS e of the machine, insert the needle until it GETTING READY a Screwdriver b Needle clamp screw INDEX 36 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Replacing the Presser Foot Presser foot precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet. a twice to raise the needle. Press (Needle position button) once or SEWING BASICS ● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break. ● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine. Replace the presser foot as described below. For details on using the side cutter "S", refer to "Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter" (page 70). 1 a Needle position button X The needle is raised. Turn off the sewing machine. UTILITY STITCHES b CAUTION APPENDIX ● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing. c GETTING READY CAUTION Replacing the presser foot CONTENTS The presser foot presses down on the fabric. Raise the presser foot lever. a Presser foot lever X The presser foot is raised. Replacing the Presser Foot 37 INDEX 1 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— d presser foot holder. Press the black button at the back of the g presser foot is securely attached. Raise the presser foot lever to check that the Note 2 a Black button b Presser foot holder X The presser foot holder releases the presser foot. e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the Buttonhole foot "A" Overcasting foot "G" Zigzag foot "J" notch in the holder. Position the presser foot so the letter indicating the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is positioned to be read. Button fitting foot "M" Monogramming foot "N" Blind stitch foot "R" 1 Side cutter "S" a Presser foot holder b Notch c Pin UTILITY STITCHES 3 2 z For details on the presser foot that should be used with the selected stitch, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). SEWING BASICS Place a different presser foot below the holder GETTING READY z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again. CONTENTS 1 Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the f presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the APPENDIX presser foot holder. 1 X The presser foot is attached. 38 INDEX a Presser foot lever ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— The amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric can be adjusted. a Lower the presser foot lever. Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that does not use the presser foot holder, such as the quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the presser foot holder. a 1 Remove the presser foot. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot b holder screw. GETTING READY ■ Removing the presser foot holder CONTENTS Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot a Presser foot lever Turn the presser foot dial at the back of the The scale on the dial indicates the range from 1 (weak) to 4 (strong). Turn the dial to the right (smaller number) to decrease the pressure. Turn the dial to the left (larger number) to increase the pressure. 1 a Screwdriver ■ Attaching the presser foot holder Strong 3 Weak Hold the presser foot holder in place with your b right hand, and then tighten the screw using the screwdriver in your left hand. a Screwdriver Replacing the Presser Foot 39 INDEX 1 APPENDIX When you are finished sewing, reset the dial to c 3 (standard). UTILITY STITCHES Align the presser foot holder with the lower- a left side of the presser bar. SEWING BASICS b sewing machine. GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Note Using the walking foot With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting. Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot. a Remove the presser foot holder. Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot b onto the needle clamp screw. 1 a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser c foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw UTILITY STITCHES 2 SEWING BASICS • For details, refer to "Removing the presser foot holder" (on the previous page). GETTING READY ■ Attaching the walking foot CONTENTS z If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed, the thread tension will be incorrect. with the screwdriver. APPENDIX 1 a Presser foot holder screw INDEX 40 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot d holder screw, and then remove the walking CAUTION foot. Note Attach the presser foot holder. • For details, refer to "Removing the presser foot holder" (page 39). Memo (Needle position button) once or a twice to raise the needle. z Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot. For details on the stitches, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). UTILITY STITCHES 1 a Needle position button X The needle is raised. c Raise the presser foot lever. APPENDIX Turn off the sewing machine. SEWING BASICS ■ Removing the walking foot b GETTING READY e z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium. Press CONTENTS ● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break. ● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. INDEX 1 a Presser foot lever X The presser foot is raised. Replacing the Presser Foot 41 GETTING READY ———————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces Stitching cylindrical pieces Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs. The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier. Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. a table. Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide Pull out the four legs until they snap into place. Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the b arm, and then sew from the top. b Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left. SEWING BASICS X With the flat bed attachment removed, freearm sewing is possible. GETTING READY a Sewing large pieces of fabric CONTENTS When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment. UTILITY STITCHES When you are finished with free-arm sewing, c install the flat bed attachment back in its X With the flat bed attachment removed, freearm sewing is possible. c Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into Install the wide table. place. APPENDIX original position. INDEX Note z The optional wide table is available through your brother retailer. 42 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d adjust their height. Turn the screw at the bottom of the legs to z The knee lifter can be stored attached to the bottom of the wide table. CONTENTS GETTING READY CAUTION ● Do not move the sewing machine while the wide table is attached, otherwise damage or injuries may occur. When you are finished using the wide table, e remove it. SEWING BASICS While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it off to the left. UTILITY STITCHES f original position. Install the flat bed attachment back in its Memo z With the legs folded up, the wide table can be stored attached to the hard case. APPENDIX INDEX Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 43 CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 44 CONTENTS 2 SEWING BASICS Sewing.....................................................................................................................46 Adjusting the Thread Tension ..................................................................................53 Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ....................................................................55 GETTING READY The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter. Useful Functions......................................................................................................57 SEWING BASICS Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................62 UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing CAUTION Follow the basic procedures below to sew. 1 Turn on the machine. Turn on the sewing machine.For details on turning on the machine, refer to "Turning on the machine" (page 11). ↓ 2 Select the stitch Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). 3 Attach the presser foot. Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). ↓ 4 Position the fabric Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly.For details on positioning the fabric, refer to "Positioning the fabric" (page 47). UTILITY STITCHES ↓ SEWING BASICS General sewing procedure GETTING READY ● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition, keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and balance wheel, otherwise injuries may occur. ● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the needle may break. ● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries. ● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or bend. CONTENTS Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions. ↓ Start sewing Start sewing.For details on starting to sew, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). ↓ 6 Cut the thread Cut the thread at the end of sewing. The thread may also be cut automatically.For details on cutting the thread, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 51). APPENDIX 5 INDEX 46 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Positioning the fabric CONTENTS Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric are aligned correctly. a Turn on the sewing machine. Lower the presser foot lever. GETTING READY e The straight stitch (left needle position) is automatically selected. Press (Needle position button) once or b twice to raise the needle. X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn. 1 c Place the fabric under the presser foot. • If the seam allowance is positioned on the right side, sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way. While holding the end of the thread and the d fabric with your left hand, turn the balance APPENDIX wheel toward you with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching. Memo z To adjust the pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric, refer to "Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot" (page 39). UTILITY STITCHES a Needle position button SEWING BASICS 1 a Presser foot lever INDEX Sewing 47 SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— b Starting to sew Press (Start/stop button) once. CONTENTS Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the operation buttons or the foot controller. 1 Note a Start/stop button X The machine starts sewing. ■ Using the operation buttons Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (Start/stop button). • If you continue to hold the start/stop button pressed immediately after the sewing starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed. c When the end of the stitching is reached, press (Start/stop button) once. When you are finished sewing, raise the 1 a Sewing speed controller d needle, and then cut the threads. X For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 51). ■ Using the foot controller Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot controller. UTILITY STITCHES X The machine stops sewing with the needle down (in the fabric). SEWING BASICS Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or a right to select the desired sewing speed. GETTING READY Important: z When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start or stop sewing. APPENDIX Turn off the sewing machine. a When connecting the foot controller, be sure to 48 INDEX turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent the machine from accidentally being started. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on b the side of the sewing machine. Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly e press down on the foot controller. Slower CONTENTS Pressing down on the foot controller increases the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the foot controller decreases the sewing speed. 1 Faster • Slowly press down on the foot controller. Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly. Note (For U.S.A. only) z Foot controller: Model N5V This foot controller can be used on this machine model NX-600. When the end of the stitching is reached, f completely release the foot controller. X The machine stops sewing with the needle lowered (in the fabric). Turn on the sewing machine. When you are finished sewing, raise the g needle, and then cut the threads. • For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 51). Memo 1 CAUTION a Sewing speed controller • The speed set using the sewing speed controller is the foot controller’s maximum sewing speed. Sewing 49 INDEX ● Do not allow thread or dust to accumulate in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur. ● Do not place objects on the foot controller, otherwise damage to the machine or injuries may occur. ● If the machine is not to be used for a long period of time, unplug the foot controller, otherwise a fire or an electric shock may occur. APPENDIX z When the foot controller is plugged in, the start/stop button cannot be used to start or stop sewing. z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so that the needle will stay up when sewing is stopped. For details on setting the machine so that the needle stays up when sewing is stopped, refer to "Changing the needle stop position" (page 16). UTILITY STITCHES Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or d right to select the desired sewing speed. Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed controller to the right to sew at a faster speed. SEWING BASICS c X The machine starts sewing. GETTING READY a Foot controller jack SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— c (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button). After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press Securing the stitching 1 CONTENTS Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching. When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement stitching to secure the end of the thread. a beginning of the stitching, and then lower the Lower the needle into the fabric at the presser foot lever. X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch button is held pressed, reverse stitches are sewn. Press (Start/stop button) or press down on After sewing back to the beginning of the d stitching, release the reverse/reinforcement stitch button. At this time, if the start/stop button is held pressed, the machine sews at a low speed. X The machine stops sewing. e on the foot controller. Press (Start/stop button), or press down SEWING BASICS b the foot controller. GETTING READY a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button X The machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction UTILITY STITCHES When the end of the stitching is reached, press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button). Keep the reverse/reinforcement stitch button held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are sewn. APPENDIX 1 a Start/stop button • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). X The machine starts sewing. f X While the reverse/reinforcement stitch button is depressed, reverse stitches are sewn. INDEX 50 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— g release After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button). h on the foot controller. (Start/stop button), or press down At this time, if the start/stop button is held pressed, the machine sews at a low speed. ■ Using the thread cutter button a When you wish to finish the stitching, press (Thread cutter button) once. GETTING READY X The machine starts sewing in the normal sewing direction. i sewing machine stops. After sewing to the end of the stitching, the Release the start/stop button or foot controller. 1 1 3 1 X The threads are cut and the needle is raised. b Raise the presser foot lever. 5 4 SEWING BASICS a Thread cutter button 2 CONTENTS When you have finished sewing, cut the threads. The threads can be cut in either of two ways. X The machine stops sewing. Press Cutting the thread 6 UTILITY STITCHES 2 1 a Beginning of stitching b End of stitching ■ Sewing reinforcement stitches When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse stitching, pressing (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other. 2 a Reverse stitching b Reinforcement stitching CAUTION ● Do not press the thread cutter button after the threads have already been cut, otherwise the needle may break, the threads may become tangled or damage to the machine may occur. APPENDIX 1 a Presser foot lever Note Memo z Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). Sewing 51 INDEX z Do not press the thread cutter button if there is no fabric under the presser foot or while the machine is sewing, otherwise damage to the machine may occur. SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Memo When you wish to finish the stitching and the (Needle position button) once to raise the needle. a sewing machine is stopped, press CONTENTS z The machine can be set so that the threads will be cut when sewing is finished. For details on setting the machine so that the threads are cut automatically, refer to "Automatically cutting the thread" (page 58). ■ Using the manual thread cutter When sewing with thread thicker than #30, nylon or metallic threads, or other special threads, use the thread cutter on the side of the machine to cut the threads. GETTING READY 1 a Needle position button b SEWING BASICS X The needle is raised. Raise the presser foot lever. a Presser foot lever Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine, c and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. UTILITY STITCHES 1 1 APPENDIX a Thread cutter INDEX 52 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the Thread Tension ■ Upper thread is too loose If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose. Thread tension 1 2 3 4 a b c d e Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Upper thread Bobbin thread The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric. 1 3 a b c d UTILITY STITCHES 2 SEWING BASICS ■ Correct thread tension The upper thread and the bobbin thread should cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper thread should be visible from the right side of the fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be visible from the wrong side of the fabric. 5 GETTING READY If the thread and needle combination is correct for the type of fabric being sewn (according to "Needle types and their uses" on page 34), the thread tension will automatically be adjusted to the appropriate setting. However, if the preset thread tension does not give the desired result or if you are sewing with special thread or on special fabric, adjust the tension of the upper thread to increase or decrease it. CONTENTS The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal. 4 Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Upper thread Bobbin thread APPENDIX ■ Upper thread is too tight If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight. 1 2 5 3 4 Wrong side of fabric Right side of fabric Upper thread Bobbin thread The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric. INDEX a b c d e Adjusting the Thread Tension 53 SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— e increase the thread tension, press To decrease the thread tension, press The tension of the upper thread can be changed using the operation panel LCD and keys. X The tension of the upper thread is changed. a Turn on the sewing machine. • If the setting is changed, the highlighting on the setting is erased. b f Press (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. Select a stitch. Memo • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). c Press d Check that (OK key). (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. is selected, and then press APPENDIX X The screen for changing the thread tension appears. UTILITY STITCHES • Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear. z To reset the thread tension to its standard setting, select the highlighted setting. z The thread tension can be adjusted using a more simple procedure. For details, refer to "Easily adjusting the thread tension" (page 147). z The settings can be saved so that they will always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to "Saving stitch settings" (page 60). SEWING BASICS X A screen containing settings for the selected stitch appears. GETTING READY • Now you can begin sewing. Sew trial stitches to check the thread tension, and then change the setting if necessary. X The LCD comes on. CONTENTS Changing the tension of the upper thread (-). To (+). INDEX 54 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length Adjusting the stitch width a Turn on the sewing machine. b Select a stitch. X A screen containing settings for the selected stitch appears. • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear. ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. UTILITY STITCHES CAUTION SEWING BASICS X The LCD comes on. GETTING READY The stitch width can be adjusted with the arrow keys. Memo z To reset the stitch width to its standard setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value. z If the straight stitch (left needle position or triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing the stitch width changes the needle position. Increasing the width moves the needle to the right; reducing the width moves the needle to the left. z The settings can be saved so that they will always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to "Saving stitch settings" (page 60). z The sewing machine can be set so that the stitch width can easily be changed with the sewing speed controller. For details, refer to "Satin stitching" (page 98). CONTENTS The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within which the width and length can be set, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). c (–). To make the stitch width wider, press To make the stitch width narrower, press APPENDIX (+). X The stitch width is changed. – + INDEX • If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased. Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 55 SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Memo Adjusting the stitch length a Turn on the sewing machine. X The LCD comes on. b Select a stitch. X A screen containing settings for the selected stitch appears. • Immediately after the stitch is selected, the standard settings (highlighted) appear. To make the stitch length shorter, press X The stitch length is changed. + APPENDIX – (–). (+). UTILITY STITCHES c To make the stitch length longer, press SEWING BASICS • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). ● If the stitches are bunched together, increase the stitch length. Continuing to sew with the stitches bunched together may result in the needle bending or breaking. GETTING READY CAUTION CONTENTS The stitch length can be adjusted with the arrow keys. z To reset the stitch length to its standard setting, select the same stitch again or change the setting to the highlighted value. z The settings can be saved so that they will always be specified each time the utility stitch is selected. For details, refer to "Saving stitch settings" (page 60). • If the setting is changed, the highlighted value is erased. INDEX 56 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Useful Functions Press Automatically sewing reverse/ reinforcement stitches a X The machine is now set to automatically sew reverse/reinforcement stitches. g Turn on the sewing machine. Press (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again, and appears in the lower-left corner of the screen. Select a stitch. • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). c Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. UTILITY STITCHES Position the fabric under the presser foot, and (Start/stop button) once. h then press SEWING BASICS • When the sewing machine is turned off, the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting is cancelled. X The LCD comes on. b . GETTING READY The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching.Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For details, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). to select . , press f To return to CONTENTS Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below. X The settings screen appears. 1 Press (Arrow keys) until (OK key). X The screen for specifying automatic reverse/ reinforcement stitching appears. X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the machine starts sewing. After reaching the end of the stitching, press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) once. This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn. INDEX e and APPENDIX Press , , d is selected. a Start/stop button i Useful Functions 57 SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— 1 The sewing machine can be set to automatically cut the threads at the end of the stitching. This is called "programmed thread-cutting". If programmed threadcutting is set, automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching is also set. This setting is convenient if a stitch for sewing buttonholes or bar tacks is selected. X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the sewing machine stops. a Turn on the sewing machine. b c Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. d is selected. Press Press , and (Arrow keys) until (OK key). X The screen for specifying automatic threadcutting appears. APPENDIX e , UTILITY STITCHES • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). Memo z Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be sewn if the start/stop button is pressed at the end of the stitching. Be sure to press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the end of the stitching. Select a stitch. SEWING BASICS X The LCD comes on. GETTING READY a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button CONTENTS Automatically cutting the thread INDEX 58 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— f To return to Press to select . , press . g Press After reaching the end of the stitching, press (Reverse/reinforcement stitch button) once. This step is not necessary if a stitch such as those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is selected where reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn. 1 CONTENTS X The machine is now set for programmed thread-cutting. i (OK key). a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the sewing machine stops and cuts the thread h then press Position the fabric under the presser foot, and (Start/stop button) once. a Start/stop button X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are sewn, the machine starts sewing. Memo APPENDIX z Reverse/reinforcement stitches will not be sewn and the thread will not automatically be cut if the start/stop button is pressed at the end of the stitching. Be sure to press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button at the end of the stitching. UTILITY STITCHES The thread is cut here. 1 SEWING BASICS • When the sewing machine is turned off, the programmed thread-cutting setting is cancelled. GETTING READY X The initial stitch screen appears again, and appears in the lower-left corner of the screen. INDEX Useful Functions 59 SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Saving stitch settings CONTENTS Adjusted thread tension and stitch width and length settings can be saved so that they will be specified each time the stitch is selected. The various settings can be saved for each utility stitch. • To clear the saved settings and return the thread tension and stitch width and length to their default settings, press so that is selected , and then press (OK key). a tension and stitch width and length. Select the stitch, and then adjust the thread • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). X The thread tension and stitch width and length are changed. (Settings key) in the operation panel. c Press , , and is selected. d Press (OK key). e Check that the (OK key). X The settings screen appears. (Arrow keys) until X The screen for saving the settings appears. is selected, and then press • The next time that the stitch is selected, the saved settings are the first ones that are displayed. 60 INDEX X The settings for the stitch width and length are saved. APPENDIX Press UTILITY STITCHES b SEWING BASICS • For details on changing the thread tension, refer to "Changing the tension of the upper thread" (page 54). GETTING READY To adjust the stitch width, press (–) and (+). To adjust the stitch length, press (–) and (+). ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Using the knee lifter Using the knee lifter, you can raise and lower the presser foot with your knee, leaving both hands free to handle the fabric. a Stop the sewing machine. • Do not use the knee lifter while the sewing machine is operating. With your knee, press the knee lifter to the b right. CONTENTS Hands-free raising and lifting of the presser foot Keep the knee lifter pressed to the right. GETTING READY ■ Installing the knee lifter a Turn off the sewing machine. Insert the knee lifter into its jack on the front b of the sewing machine in the lower-right corner. Align the tabs on the knee lifter with the notches in the jack, and then insert the knee lifter as far as possible. c Release the knee lifter. X The presser foot is lowered. CAUTION UTILITY STITCHES ● While sewing, keep your knee away from the knee lifter. If the knee lifter is pressed while the sewing machine is operating, the needle may break or the machine may be damaged. SEWING BASICS X The presser foot is raised. APPENDIX Note z If the knee lifter is not fully inserted into its jack, it may fall out while the sewing machine is operating. INDEX Useful Functions 61 SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— Useful Sewing Tips Trial sewing a sewing machine. When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain a finer stitch. SEWING BASICS Changing the sewing direction Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing direction to sew around the curve. For details on sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to "Sewing an even seam allowance" (page 64). GETTING READY After you have set up the machine with the thread and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be achieved. For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are the same as those used for your project, and check the thread tension and stitch length and width. Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project. Sewing curves CONTENTS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the b fabric. UTILITY STITCHES Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing, press (Needle position button) to lower the needle. Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot. APPENDIX Lower the presser foot lever and continue 62 INDEX c sewing. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Release the button. The foot will lock in place c level with the seam, allowing the fabric to Sewing thick fabrics feed. CONTENTS ■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the presser foot to its highest position. CAUTION 1 When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper. When you encounter a seam that is too thick a to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever. 1 Press the black button on the left side of the b foot. Keep the button held in and lower the presser foot. UTILITY STITCHES a Sewing direction Sewing thin fabrics SEWING BASICS ■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does not feed at the beginning of stitching Zigzag foot "J" is equipped with a feature that keeps the presser foot level. ● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch) thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed with too much force, the needle may bend or break. GETTING READY X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the foot will return to its normal position. a Stabilizer material or paper First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew without stretching the fabric. a Basting Useful Sewing Tips 63 INDEX 1 APPENDIX Sewing stretch fabrics SEWING BASICS ———————————————————————————————————————————— When sewing the fabrics that may stick to the presser foot such as leathers or coated fabrics, change the presser foot to the non stick foot. 4 1 1 3 2 a Leather Sewing an even seam allowance GETTING READY 5 CONTENTS Sewing leathers or vinyl fabrics ■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle position of a seam sewn with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with a marking in the needle plate. The distance between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch). 6 1 2 Seam Presser foot Centimeters Inches Needle plate 16 mm (5/8 inch) UTILITY STITCHES ■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric. a b c d e f SEWING BASICS To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate. a Seam b Presser foot APPENDIX ■ Aligning the fabric with the stitch guide foot Sew while keeping the right edge of the fabric aligned with a desired position of markings on the stitch guide foot. 1 2 64 INDEX a Seam b Stitch guide foot c Markings 3 CONTENTS 3 UTILITY STITCHES Selecting Stitching ...................................................................................................66 Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................68 Basic Stitching .........................................................................................................72 GETTING READY The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter. Blind Hem Stitching ................................................................................................74 Zipper Insertion.......................................................................................................83 Zipper/piping Insertion ...........................................................................................88 Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ..................................................................90 Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ................................................................92 Reinforcement Stitching ........................................................................................100 Horizontal Stitching ..............................................................................................105 Decorative Stitching..............................................................................................107 Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns...................................................115 Designing a Pattern ...............................................................................................126 UTILITY STITCHES Eyelet Stitching......................................................................................................104 SEWING BASICS Buttonhole Stitching................................................................................................76 APPENDIX INDEX UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Selecting Stitching Stitch types Selecting stitching Using the operation panel keys, select the desired stitch from those shown in the LCD. Twelve of the most often used utility stitches can quickly be selected with the stitch keys. When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. ■ Utility stitches a Determine which presser foot should be used b with the selected stitch. The presser feet are stored in the accessory compartment. ■ Decorative stitches • For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). There are 31 decorative stitches, including hearts, leaves and flowers. ■ Satin stitches ■ Cross-stitches There are 10 types of cross-stitches. c Attach the presser foot. d Turn on the sewing machine. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). ■ Decorative satin stitches UTILITY STITCHES There are 18 satin stitches. • Refer to "Stitch types" (at the left). SEWING BASICS There are 71 utility stitches, including straight stitches, overcasting stitches and buttonhole stitches. Determine the stitch that you wish to use. GETTING READY A total of 8 groups of stitch types (utility stitches, decorative stitches, satin stitches, cross-stitches, decorative satin stitches and 3 types of character stitches) are available. For details on the types of stitches available, refer to "Stitch Settings" (page 132). CONTENTS You can select any of the various types of stitching available. There are 10 decorative satin stitches. There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font. X The straight stitch (left needle position) is shown selected in the LCD. e panel. Press ■ Character stitch—Script font There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the Script font. There are 97 characters, including letters, symbols and numbers, in the outline style. 66 To select a stitch using the stitch keys, press the key of the desired stitch. Continue with step j . X The screen containing the various types of stitches appears. INDEX ■ Character stitch—Outline style (Stitch selection key) in the operation APPENDIX ■ Character stitch—Gothic font ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— f type of stitch that you wish to use is selected. Press , , and (Arrow keys) until the Memo Press GETTING READY g (OK key). X The screen containing the various stitches in the selected stitch type appears. ■ Understanding the screen 1 SEWING BASICS 2 a Selected stitch type b Number of stitches in the selected stitch type UTILITY STITCHES • To select a different stitch type, press (Back key). h stitch that you wish to use is selected. Press , , and (Arrow keys) until the Press to return to the previous screen. Press to display the next screen. i Press CONTENTS z For details on adjusting the stitch width and length, refer to "Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length" (page 55). (OK key). X The stitch is selected. j reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the If necessary, specify the setting for automatic APPENDIX stitch length, etc. • For details on sewing with each of the utility stitches, refer to the following pages. Note INDEX z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the presser foot that should be used appears in the screen. Check that the correct presser foot is attached before starting to sew. If the wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the sewing machine, attach the correct presser foot, and then select the desired stitch again. Selecting Stitching 67 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Overcasting Stitches Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot "G" CONTENTS Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Fifteen stitches are available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used. Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot "G". Pattern Stitch Key Preventing fraying in mediumweight and thin fabrics 11 12 13 a – Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and fabrics that fray easily Attach overcasting foot "G". Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–5.0 (3/32–3/16) 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–5.0 (3/32–3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Presser Foot G d presser foot guide. Sew with the edge of the fabric against the SEWING BASICS Overcasting stitch Application GETTING READY Stitch Name G • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). b Select a stitch. • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). a Guide 68 ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. INDEX 1 CAUTION APPENDIX Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric c against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever. a Needle drop point UTILITY STITCHES 1 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot "J" Stitch Name Zigzag stitch (right needle position) Stitch Key 7 8 9 3-point zigzag stitch 10 – 14 Overcasting stitch 15 16 Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Preventing fraying (center baseline/reverse stitching) 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Preventing fraying (right baseline/reinforcement stitching) 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–5.0 (3/32–3/16) 1.4 (1/16) 0.3–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics – Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.5–4.0 (1/32–3/16) – Preventing fraying in thick fabrics and stretch fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.5–4.0 (1/32–3/16) – Preventing fraying in stretch fabrics 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 4.0 (3/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Presser Foot J Attach zigzag foot "J". 1 J UTILITY STITCHES a Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] SEWING BASICS 2-point zigzag stitch – Application GETTING READY Zigzag stitch (center needle position) Pattern CONTENTS Seven stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot "J". • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). Select a stitch. • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). c needle dropping off the edge at the right. Sew along the edge of the fabric with the a Needle drop point Memo z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For details, refer to "Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot" (page 39). APPENDIX b INDEX 1 a Needle drop point Overcasting Stitches 69 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing overcasting stitches using the side cutter Stitch Name Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric 0.0 (0) 0.0–2.5 (0–3/32) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) 64 Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric 3.5 (1/8) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Preventing fraying in thin and medium weight fabrics while cutting the fabric 3.5 (1/8) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 2.0 1.0–4.0 (1/16) ( 1/16–3/16) 66 Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric 5.0 (3/16) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 2.5 1.0–4.0 (3/32) ( 1/16–3/16) 67 Preventing fraying in thick fabrics while cutting the fabric 5.0 (3/16) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 2.5 1.0–4.0 (3/32) ( 1/16–3/16) 65 S d onto the needle clamp screw. Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter 1 • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). Lower the presser foot lever, and then b manually thread the needle. a Connecting fork b Needle clamp screw e is aligned with the notch in the presser foot Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot lever. Raise the presser foot lever. APPENDIX • The needle threader cannot be used. If the needle threader is used with the side cutter, the sewing machine may be damaged. c 2 Remove the presser foot. UTILITY STITCHES a SEWING BASICS 63 Presser Foot GETTING READY Overcasting stitch Pattern CONTENTS Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Five stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter. 2 1 INDEX a Notch in presser foot holder b Pin X The side cutter is attached. 70 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— f side cutter is securely attached. Raise the presser foot lever to check that the Lower the presser foot lever, and then start k sewing. sewing machine. h Select a stitch. CAUTION 1 Make a cut of about 2 cm (1/16 inch) long in i the fabric at the beginning of the stitching. 1 a 5 mm (3/16 inch) Memo z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer of 13-oz. denim. z After using the side cutter, clean it by removing any lint or dust. z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric, use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to the cutting edge of the cutter. UTILITY STITCHES ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. SEWING BASICS • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the seam allowance will be about 5 mm (3/16 inch). GETTING READY X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn. CONTENTS Pass the upper thread under the side cutter, g and then pull it out toward the rear of the • If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the fabric will not be cut. APPENDIX a 2 cm (1/16 inch) j The cut in the fabric should be positioned over Position the fabric in the side cutter. the guide plate of the side cutter. INDEX 1 a Guide plate Overcasting Stitches 71 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Basic Stitching Presser Foot CONTENTS J GETTING READY Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Five stitches are available for basic stitching. Stitch Name Basting stitch Straight stitch (left needle position) Pattern Stitch Key 6 – 1 2 Triple stretch stitch Auto Manual Auto Temporarily securing 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 20 5-30 (3/4) (3/16-1-3/16) Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reverse stitching) 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2-5.0 (1/64–3/16) Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (left baseline/ reinforcement stitching) 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2-5.0 (1/64–3/16) – – 2.5 (3/32) 0.2-5.0 (1/64–3/16) 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks (center baseline/reverse stitching) 3 4 Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Reinforcing seams and sewing stretch fabrics Manual Sew basting with a stitch length between 5 mm (3/16 inch) and 30 mm (1-3/16 inch). a Attach zigzag foot "J". 1 a 5-30 mm (3/16-1-3/16 inch) UTILITY STITCHES Basting SEWING BASICS Straight stitch (center needle position) – Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Application J b 72 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). Start sewing. • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). INDEX c Select stitch 6 APPENDIX • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Basic stitching Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. b Attach zigzag foot "J". 1 2 J c Select a stitch. • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). Lower the needle into the fabric at the e Start sewing. • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). f 1 0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0 When sewing is finished, cut the thread. • For details, refer to "Cutting the thread" (page 51). 3 4 5 6 2 Basic Stitching 73 INDEX • For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 55). APPENDIX a Stitch width b Distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) UTILITY STITCHES • For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches, refer to "Securing the stitching" (page 50). When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width. SEWING BASICS d beginning of the stitching. a Straight stitch (left needle position) b Straight stitch (center needle position) GETTING READY • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). CONTENTS a ■ Changing the needle position The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position). UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Blind Hem Stitching Stitch Name Stitch Key Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Application Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 3← – 3→ 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) 3← – 3→ 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) 17 Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics 0.0 (0) 18 Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 0.0 (0) Presser Foot R Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure. a hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). GETTING READY Blind hem stitch Pattern CONTENTS Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. from the edge of the fabric. 2 1 • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). e hem against the guide of the presser foot, and Position the fabric with the edge of the folded 3 then lower the presser foot lever. Wrong side of fabric Basting stitching Desired edge of hem 5 mm (3/16 inch) R Fold back the fabric along the basting, and b then position the fabric with the wrong side 3 1 facing up. 2 2 f catches the fold of the hem. Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly 1 APPENDIX a Wrong side of fabric b Fold of hem c Guide UTILITY STITCHES a b c d Select a stitch. SEWING BASICS d 4 R a Wrong side of fabric b Basting Attach blind hem foot "R". 1 a Needle drop point R 74 INDEX c ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— g presser foot guide. Sew with the fold of the hem against the 1 – + Remove the basting stitching. CONTENTS h 2 1 ■ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold The needle is too far to the left. Press (of the arrow keys) to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. Memo z For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For details, refer to "Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot" (page 39). 2 a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric UTILITY STITCHES ■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is too far to the right. Press (of the arrow keys) to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. APPENDIX 1 SEWING BASICS 1 a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric GETTING READY a Stitch width 2 a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric • For details on changing the stitch width, refer to "Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length" (page 55). INDEX Blind Hem Stitching 75 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole Stitching Stitch Name Pattern 43 44 Auto Manual – 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) – Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) – Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) 46 – Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.0 (15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) 0.5–2.0 (1/32–1/16) 47 – Buttonholes for stretch fabrics 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.5 (15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 48 – Bound buttonholes 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–6.0 (0–15/64) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 49 – Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) 50 – Keyhole buttonholes for mediumweight and thick fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) 51 – Horizontal buttonhole for thick or plush fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) Buttonsewing stitch 55 – Button sewing 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–4.5 (3/32–3/16) – – A UTILITY STITCHES Manual Presser Foot SEWING BASICS Auto Horizontal buttonholes on thin and mediumweight fabrics 45 Buttonhole stitch Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Application GETTING READY 42 Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Key CONTENTS Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing on buttons and one-step buttonholes. M APPENDIX INDEX 76 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Buttonhole sewing 1 GETTING READY 1 1 SEWING BASICS 1 a and length of the buttonhole. Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position 1 1 APPENDIX 2 5 3 UTILITY STITCHES a Reinforcement stitching The names of parts of buttonhole foot "A", which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. CONTENTS The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. a Marks on fabric b foot "A", and then insert the button that will be Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole 4 put through the buttonhole. a b c d e INDEX A Button guide plate Presser foot scale Pin Marks on buttonhole foot 5 mm (3/16 inch) Buttonhole Stitching 77 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— e buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on Position the fabric with the front end of the the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then lower the presser foot lever. 1 CONTENTS ■ If the button does not fit in the button guide plate Add together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set the button guide plate to the calculated length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) A 1 a Mark on fabric b Red marks on buttonhole foot Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. 2 3 Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale. SEWING BASICS a Presser foot scale b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of button) c 5 mm (3/16 inch) • When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size. GETTING READY 2 1 a 10 mm (3/8 inch) b 15 mm (9/16 inch) X The size of the buttonhole is set. c Attach buttonhole foot "A". d Select a stitch. 1 a Do not reduce the gap. f possible. Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as 1 UTILITY STITCHES 2 • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. APPENDIX • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). 1 78 INDEX 2 a Buttonhole lever b Bracket ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— g your left hand, and then start sewing. Gently hold the end of the upper thread in CONTENTS 1 a Eyelet punch h and then remove the fabric. Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, Raise the buttonhole lever to its original i position. Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at the stitching from being cut. 1 CAUTION ● When opening the buttonhole with the seam ripper, do not place your hands in the cutting direction, otherwise injuries may result if the seam ripper slips. ■ Changing the density of the stitching Adjust the stitch length. – Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and k open the buttonhole. • For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch length" (page 56). • If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is too thick), decrease the density of the stitching. 1 – + APPENDIX ■ Changing the stitch width Adjust the stitch width. UTILITY STITCHES a Pin + SEWING BASICS j the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent • When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric. GETTING READY X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. a Seam ripper • For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 55). Buttonhole Stitching 79 INDEX For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch to make a hole in the rounded end of the buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut open the buttonhole. UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp g thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and Memo ■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use then tie it. With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the h gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole. Trim off any excess of the gimp thread. CONTENTS z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch length and width by sewing a trial buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric. a gimp thread. that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely tie it. GETTING READY Hook the gimp thread onto the part of a buttonhole foot "A" shown in the illustration so SEWING BASICS Attach buttonhole foot "A". c Select stitch 46 • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). or 47 . UTILITY STITCHES b Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the Lower the presser foot lever and the e buttonhole lever, and then start sewing. APPENDIX d gimp thread. When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp f thread to remove any slack. INDEX 80 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Button sewing c Place the button into button-sewing foot "M". CONTENTS Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached. a drop feed lever, located at the rear of the Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the machine on the base, to (to the right as seen from the front of the machine). 1 a Button 1 d Select stitch 55 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • Leave automatic thread-cutting set to . a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the machine) b Back side holes of the button. Adjust the stitch width to the distance between the button holes. X The feed dogs are lowered. Attach button-sewing foot "M". APPENDIX b UTILITY STITCHES Turn the balance wheel toward you to check e that the needle correctly goes into the two SEWING BASICS 2 GETTING READY • When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle goes into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). INDEX Buttonhole Stitching 81 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— CAUTION Place the button into button-sewing foot "M", f a and then pull the shank lever toward you. Start sewing. CONTENTS ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the button, otherwise the needle may bend or break. ■ Attaching a shank to a button To sew the button with a shank, attach the button with space between it and the fabric, and then wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button securely. X The sewing machine automatically stops after sewing reinforcement stitches. • Do not press the thread cutter button. Pull the upper thread at the end of the g stitching to the wrong side of the fabric, and After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread b with plenty of excess, wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric, and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching. Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching at the wrong side of the fabric. When you are finished attaching the button, (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs. 1 c Cut off any excess thread. UTILITY STITCHES h slide the drop feed lever to SEWING BASICS then tie it with the bobbin thread. Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching. a Shank lever GETTING READY 1 • If additional strength is needed to secure the button, perform the button-sewing operation twice. APPENDIX a Back side INDEX 82 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Zipper Insertion Stitch Name Stitch Key 3 Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Application Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and pintucks Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual – – 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Presser Foot I There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper are described below. Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the Inserting a centered zipper b edge of the fabric. 3 2 4 2 1 a Right side of fabric b Stitching c End of zipper opening a up to the zipper opening. Attach zigzag foot "J" and sew straight stitches Basting stitching Reverse stitches Wrong side of fabric End of zipper opening c wrong side of the fabric. Press open the seam allowance from the 1 UTILITY STITCHES 3 a b c d SEWING BASICS 1 Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted against each other. GETTING READY Straight stitch (center needle position) Pattern CONTENTS A zipper can be sewn in place. With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening. APPENDIX • For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page 73). a Wrong side of fabric INDEX Zipper Insertion 83 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— d and then baste the zipper in place. Align the seam with the center of the zipper, g Topstitch around the zipper. 3 2 1 3 4 GETTING READY a Wrong side of fabric b Basting stiching c Zipper e of zipper foot "I". Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin 1 2 Stitching Right side of fabric Basting stitching End of zipper opening CAUTION f Select stitch 3 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). CAUTION Remove the basting stitching. APPENDIX ● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. h UTILITY STITCHES • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break. SEWING BASICS a b c d I a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point CONTENTS 1 2 INDEX 84 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— c wrong side of the fabric. Press open the seam allowance from the Inserting a side zipper 1 2 CONTENTS Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this type of zipper for side openings and back openings. 1 a Wrong side of fabric Press the seam allowance so that the right side 3 mm (1/8 inch). 3 a Stitching b Right side of fabric c End of zipper opening a up to the zipper opening. Attach zigzag foot "J" and sew straight stitches With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening. 2 a Wrong side of fabric b 3 mm (1/8 inch) e the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of and then baste or pin the zipper in place. Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the b edge of the fabric. 2 1 1 2 3 a Zipper teeth b Basting stitching f of zipper foot "I". Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin Basting stitching Reverse stitches Wrong side of fabric End of zipper opening If the stitching will be sewn on the right side, attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of the zipper foot. APPENDIX 4 a b c d UTILITY STITCHES • For details, refer to "Basic stitching" (page 73). 1 SEWING BASICS The following procedure will describe how to stitch on the left side, as shown in the illustration. GETTING READY d (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 1 I a Pin on the right side b Needle drop point Zipper Insertion 85 INDEX 2 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). Select stitch 3 Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then . CONTENTS g j baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric. • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). CAUTION a Basting stitching k of zipper foot "I". Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin If the presser foot holder was attached to the right pin in step f , change it to the left pin. 1 of the zipper. I SEWING BASICS Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the h extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base 2 l Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper Topstitch around the zipper. opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot. 3 2 4 1 5 When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the i end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise the presser foot lever, and then open the zipper and continue sewing. Right side of fabric End of zipper opening Reverse stitches Beginning of stitching Basting stitching INDEX 86 a b c d e APPENDIX ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break. UTILITY STITCHES a Pin on the left side b Needle drop point CAUTION GETTING READY ● When using zipper foot "I", be sure to select the straight stitch (center needle position), and slowly turn the balance wheel toward you to check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If a different stitch is selected or the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. 1 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— m end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine When you are about 5 cm (2 inch) from the CONTENTS with the needle lowered (in the fabric), and then raise the presser foot lever. n and then continue sewing. Remove the basting stitching, open the zipper, GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX Zipper Insertion 87 ——————————————————————————————————————————— UTILITY STITCHES Zipper/piping Insertion Stitch Name Stitch Key Application Attaching zippers Sewing concealed seams and piping 1 Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) Presser Foot There are many methods for inserting zippers and pipings. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a piping are described below, with the adjustable zipper/piping foot. e right feed dog. Slide the presser foot over either the left or Inserting a centered zipper GETTING READY Straight stitch (left needle position) Pattern CONTENTS A zipper and piping can be sewn in place. Refer to step a –d of "Inserting a centered SEWING BASICS a zipper" (page 83). b holder (page 39) to attach the screw-on Remove the presser foot and presser foot adjustable zipper/piping foot. Right sewing position f does not touch the presser foot. Change the needle position so that the needle Note z Use a screw driver to securely tighten the screw that holds the presser foot. If the screw is loose, the needle may break and cause injures. For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 55). 1 c Select stitch . Loosen the positioning screw on the back of d the presser foot. CAUTION ● After adjusting the needle position, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check the needle does not touch the presser-foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. APPENDIX a Needle drop point 1 UTILITY STITCHES Left sewing position INDEX 1 a Positioning screw 88 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— g screwdriver. Securely tighten the positioning screw with a Inserting a piping 1 CONTENTS Place the piping between two fabrics inside a out, as shown below. 2 a Positioning screw 1 a Fabric b Piping c Fabric 3 b zipper/piping foot on the previous page. Refer to the steps of attaching the adjustable 2 Stitching Right side of fabric Basting stitching End of zipper opening Sew along the piping. d After sewing, turn them over. CAUTION i APPENDIX ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch the zipper, otherwise the needle may bend or break. UTILITY STITCHES a b c d c SEWING BASICS 4 GETTING READY h 3 Topstitch around the zipper. Remove the basting stitching. INDEX Zipper/piping Insertion 89 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stitch Name Stretch stitch Pattern Stitch Key 5 3-point zigzag stitch 10 Elasticattaching stitch 28 – Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual 1.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) Presser Foot Attaching elastic – Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics J Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations. Stretch stitching a Elastic attaching Attach zigzag foot "J". a fabric. Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). Select stitch 5 c Sew the fabric without stretching it. . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). 1 APPENDIX b Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric. UTILITY STITCHES J When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. therefore, it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used. SEWING BASICS 9 Stretch fabrics Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] GETTING READY 2-point zigzag stitch Application CONTENTS Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached. 2 a Elastic tape b Pin INDEX 90 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— b Attach zigzag foot "J". J CONTENTS • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). Select a stitch. GETTING READY c • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). d stretching the tape so that it is the same length Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while SEWING BASICS as the fabric. While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand. UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX CAUTION INDEX ● When sewing, be sure that the needle does not touch any pins, otherwise the needle may bend or break. Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 91 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching Stitch Name Pattern Stitch Key 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Appliqué quilting, freemotion quilting, satin stitching 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Attaching appliqués 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–5.0 (3/32–3/16) 2.5 (3/32) 1.6–4.0 (1/16–3/16) – Attaching appliqués and 1.5 (1/16) binding 0.5–5.0 (1/32–3/16) 1.2 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) – Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance 5.5 of 6.5 mm from the right (7/32) edge of the presser foot) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) – Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance 1.5 of 6.5 mm from the left (1/16) edge of the presser foot) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 0.2–5.0 (1/64–3/16) – 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) – 57 Piecing straight stitch 58 22 Joining stitch 23 24 59 Quilting stippling 62 Patchwork stitching – – Straight stitch quilting that looks hand quilting 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) – Stippling 7.0 (1/4) 1.0–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) APPENDIX Mock hand quilting stitch – J UTILITY STITCHES Attaching appliqués (center baseline/reverse stitching) SEWING BASICS Manual Presser Foot GETTING READY Auto 19 61 Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Manual Zigzag stitch Appliqué stitch Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Auto 7 60 Application CONTENTS The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below. INDEX 92 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). Appliqué stitching 3/16 inch). 1 e Select a stitch. • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). f begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué, Turn the balance wheel toward you, and then a Seam allowance Place a pattern made of thick paper on the b back of the appliqué, and then fold over the GETTING READY making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué. CONTENTS Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam a allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and seam allowance using an iron. SEWING BASICS Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it c onto the fabric that it will be attached to. UTILITY STITCHES • Remove the thick paper after pressing the seam allowance. When sewing around corners, stop the machine with the needle in the fabric just outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to change the sewing direction. APPENDIX 1 a Basting stitching d Attach the open toe foot. INDEX Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 93 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— a place it over the lower piece. Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and b pattern spans over both pieces. Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the Piecing Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called "piecing". The fabric pieces should be cut with a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance. Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from either the right side or the left side of the presser foot. CONTENTS Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the a fabric that you wish to piece together. GETTING READY b Attach zigzag foot "J". J c Select stitch 57 or 58 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). d with the edge of the fabric. Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned 1 ■ For a seam allowance on the left side Align the left side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 58 . APPENDIX a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) UTILITY STITCHES ■ For a seam allowance on the right side Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 57 . SEWING BASICS • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). 1 INDEX a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) 94 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— e Memo ■ Using the 1/4 inch quilting foot If the 1/4 inch quilting foot is used, seams can be sewn with a seam allowance of 6.4 mm (1/4 inch). b Attach the 1/4 inch quilting foot. Sew until the mark at the lower edge of the 1/4 inch quilting foot aligns with the lower edge of the fabric. 1 2 3 a 6.4mm (1/4 inch) b End of stitching c Mark on 1/4 inch quilting foot SEWING BASICS • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). c Select stitch 3 GETTING READY Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the a fabric that you wish to piece together. When the end of the stitching is reached, stop f the sewing machine. CONTENTS z To change the width of the seam allowance (The needle position), adjust the stitch width. Start sewing. . Align the mark at the upper edge of the 1/4 d inch quilting foot with the upper edge of the UTILITY STITCHES fabric. Align the right edge of the fabric with the right edge of the narrow part of the 1/4 inch quilting foot. 1 2 APPENDIX a Mark on 1/4 inch quilting foot b Beginning of stitching When sewing with a seam allowance, align the left edge of the narrow part of the 1/4 inch quilting foot with the fabric edge. INDEX 1 a Seam (3.2 mm (1/8 inch)) Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 95 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Quilting ■ Using the quilting guide Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spaced. CONTENTS Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is called "quilting". Quilts can easily be sewn using the walking foot and the quilting guide. Baste the fabric to be quilted. b Attach the walking foot. c • For details, refer to "Using the walking foot" (page 40). Insert the stem of the quilter into the hole at a the rear of the walking foot or presser foot holder. Walking foot Presser foot holder Select a stitch. • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). d foot, and then evenly guide the fabric while GETTING READY a Place one hand on each side of the presser Note z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a speed between slow and medium. been sewn. UTILITY STITCHES Adjust the stem of the quilter so that the quilt b guide aligns with the seam that has already SEWING BASICS sewing. APPENDIX INDEX 96 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— d the machine on the base, to Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of (to the right as seen from the front of the machine). Free-motion quilting 1 2 • Refer to "Removing the presser foot holder" (page 39). Align the quilting foot with the lower-left side The pin on the quilting foot should be positioned over the needle clamp screw. c hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder Hold the quilting foot in place with your right screw using the screwdriver in your left hand. X The feed dogs are lowered. e stitch. Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a 2 3 • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). UTILITY STITCHES 1 a Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of the machine) b Back side SEWING BASICS b of the presser bar. GETTING READY Remove the presser foot and the presser foot a holder. CONTENTS With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. f then move the fabric to follow the pattern. Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, and Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the beginning and end of sewing. 1 CAUTION APPENDIX a Pin on quilting foot b Presser foot holder screw c Needle clamp screw ● Be sure to securely tighten the screws with the screwdriver, otherwise the needle may touch the presser foot, causing it to bend or break. Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 97 INDEX a Pattern UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— g lever to After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed (to the left as seen from the front of the machine) to raise the feed dogs. • Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned at the left. a Connect the foot controller. b Attach zigzag foot "J". • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). J c Turn on the sewing machine, and then press (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. Press , , and is selected. e Press (OK key). (Arrow keys) until f To return to Press to select . , press APPENDIX X The screen for specifying that the stitch width can be controlled with the sewing speed controller appears. UTILITY STITCHES d SEWING BASICS • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). GETTING READY a Back side A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed is adjusted with the foot controller. CONTENTS 1 Satin stitching . INDEX X The machine is now set so that the stitch width can be controlled with the sewing speed controller. 98 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— g Press h Select stitch 60 (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. CONTENTS . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). i controller to adjust the stitch width. While sewing, slide the sewing speed Narrower GETTING READY Slide the controller to the left to make the width narrower. Slide the controller to the right to make the width wider. Wider SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES • Adjust the sewing speed with the foot controller. j width control setting back to OFF. When you are finished sewing, set the stitch APPENDIX Memo z Although the stitching result differs depending on the type of fabric being sewn and the thickness of the thread being used, for best results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3 and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch). INDEX Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 99 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Reinforcement Stitching Stitch Name Pattern 4 Bar tack stitch 54 52 Darning stitch 53 Application Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual Auto Manual Reinforcing the seams of sleeves and inseams 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) – Reinforcing the ends of openings, such as the corners of pockets 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 0.4 (1/64) 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) – Darning mediumweight fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.4–2.5 (1/64–3/32) – Darning thick fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.4–2.5 (1/64–3/32) Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes and inseams. Attach zigzag foot "J". Presser Foot J A Bar tack stitching Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to strain, such as pocket corners and openings. As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). b . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot Determine the desired length of the bar tack. "A" to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) Start sewing. 1 • For details, refer to "Starting to sew" (page 48). APPENDIX c Select stitch 4 UTILITY STITCHES J SEWING BASICS Triple stretch stitching a Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] GETTING READY Triple stretch stitch Stitch Key CONTENTS Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners. 2 3 • A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1–1/8 inch) can be sewn. 100 INDEX a Presser foot scale b Length of bar tack c 5 mm (3/16 inch) ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— b • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). Select stitch 54 The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. 1 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). 2 a Buttonhole lever b Bracket f your left hand, and then start sewing. Gently hold the end of the upper thread in a 2 mm (1/16 inch) Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, g and then remove the fabric. h position. Raise the buttonhole lever to its original Memo z If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch length" (page 56). UTILITY STITCHES • When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size. X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. SEWING BASICS 1 GETTING READY Position the fabric so that the opening of the d pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening. CONTENTS c Attach buttonhole foot "A". APPENDIX 1 a Do not reduce the gap. e possible. Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as 1 INDEX a Buttonhole lever Reinforcement Stitching 101 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Darning CONTENTS Fabric that has been torn can be darned. Darning is sewn as shown below. 1 GETTING READY 1 Determine the desired length of the darning. a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot "A" to the desired length. (The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).) Position the fabric so that the needle is 2 mm d (1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned, and then lower the presser foot lever. 2 1 2 3 Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. 4 • When lowering the presser foot, do not push in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn with the correct size. Presser foot scale Length of darning 5 mm (3/16 inch) 7 mm (1/4 inch) • A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) can be sewn. b Attach buttonhole foot "A". c Select stitch 52 or 53 INDEX 102 • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). APPENDIX a b c d a Tear b 2 mm (1/16 inch) UTILITY STITCHES 1 SEWING BASICS a Reinforcement stitching 1 a Do not reduce the gap. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— e possible. Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as CONTENTS 1 GETTING READY a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. 1 SEWING BASICS 2 a Buttonhole lever b Bracket f your left hand, and then start sewing. Gently hold the end of the upper thread in UTILITY STITCHES X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, APPENDIX g and then remove the fabric. h position. Raise the buttonhole lever to its original Memo INDEX z If the fabric does not feed, for example, because it is too thick, increase the stitch length. For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch length" (page 56). Reinforcement Stitching 103 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Eyelet Stitching Stitch Name a Application 56 Sewing eyelets, for example, on belts Attach monogramming foot "N". Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0 or 5.0 (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) e Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto Manual 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0 or 5.0 (1/4, 15/64 or 3/16) Presser Foot N Start sewing. X Once sewing is completed, the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches, then stops. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). b Select stitch 56 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch 6 mm 7 mm 5 mm (1/4 inch) (15/64 inch) (3/16 inch) • For details, refer to "Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length" (page 55). Memo z If thin thread is used, the stitching may be open. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice before removing the fabric, one on top of the other. APPENDIX Lower the needle into the fabric at the d beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever. • When using the eyelet punch, place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric. UTILITY STITCHES c length to select the desired eyelet size. SEWING BASICS Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the f center of the eyelet. GETTING READY Eyelet stitch Pattern CONTENTS Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch). INDEX 104 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Horizontal Stitching Stitch Name Horizontal zigzag stitch Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] 68 Attaching appliqués to sleeves (straight stitch sewn to the left) – – 69 Attaching appliqués to sleeves (straight stitch sewn to the right) – – 70 Attaching appliqués to sleeves (zigzag stitch sewn to the left) – – 71 Attaching appliqués to sleeves (zigzag stitch sewn to the right) – – Presser Foot GETTING READY Horizontal straight stitch Pattern N d beginning of the stitching, and then start Lower the needle into the fabric at the sewing. Lower the needle at the upper-right corner. 4 3 SEWING BASICS The illustration below shows the sewing order for the following explanation. 1 2 b Remove the flat bed attachment. • For details, refer to "Stitching cylindrical pieces" (page 42). X The fabric is fed toward the back of the machine, as usual. Attach monogramming foot "N". • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). e sewing machine, and then select stitch 68 After you have sewn to the corner, stop the c Select stitch 1 Start sewing. APPENDIX f . UTILITY STITCHES a CONTENTS Horizontal stitching is used to attach appliqués to fabric that cannot be moved around, such as cylindrical pieces. Straight stitches and zigzag stitches that sew to either the left or right are available. . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). X The fabric is fed to the right. After you have sewn to the corner, stop the . Horizontal Stitching 105 INDEX g sewing machine, and then select stitch 1 UTILITY STITCHES h button). Press ——————————————————————————————————————————— (Reverse/reinforcement stitch i sewing machine, and then select stitch 69 After you have sewn to the corner, stop the j . Start sewing. again. l the stitching, stop the sewing machine. After sewing 3 to 5 stitches at the beginning of UTILITY STITCHES After you have sewn to the corner, stop the k sewing machine, and then select stitch 1 SEWING BASICS X The fabric is fed to the left. GETTING READY X The fabric is fed forward. CONTENTS Hold the reverse/reinforcement stitch button pressed until the stitching reaches the upper-left corner. Memo APPENDIX z The feeding direction of the fabric differs depending on the stitch that is selected. Be sure to guide the fabric while it is sewn. INDEX 106 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Decorative Stitching Stitch Name Pattern Application 26 27 Sewing two pieces of fabric together across an open seam 22 23 Joining stitch Decorative bridging stitches Shell tuck stitch 20 Shell tuck stitching on collars and curves 25 26 Smocking fabrics to add texture and elasticity 27 21 Scallop stitch Satin scallop stitching 33 34 Lace sewing, decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative stitch 36 37 Decorative hemming and heirloom stitching, etc. on thin, mediumweight and plain weave fabrics 39 Decorative hemming, ribbon threading, heirloom stitching, etc. Manual 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/25–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.1–1.0 (1/64–1/16) 3.5 (1/8) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.6–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 6.0 (15/64) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 3.5 (1/8) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 4.0 (3/16) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 1.5–4.0 (1/16–3/16) J N Decorative Stitching 107 INDEX 38 Auto APPENDIX 35 Manual UTILITY STITCHES Smocking stitch Auto Presser Foot SEWING BASICS 24 Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] GETTING READY Fagoting stitch Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] CONTENTS Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine. UTILITY STITCHES Stitch Name ——————————————————————————————————————————— Pattern Application Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Presser Foot Manual 6.0 (15/64) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 29 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 2.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 30 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.5 (7/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 (1/16) 1.0–4.0 (1/16–3/16) 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4 1.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) d Select stitch 26 or 27 e Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch). 41 31 Heirloom stitching, etc. Decorative stitching 32 Fagoting Stitching across an open seam is called "fagoting". It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used. J N . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch width" (page 55). f along the center of the two pieces of fabric. Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by b about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet of water-soluble stabilizer. 3 UTILITY STITCHES Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric a along their seams. N SEWING BASICS Auto GETTING READY Manual CONTENTS Auto 40 Decorative stitch Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] 1 APPENDIX 2 a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer b Basting stitching c 4 mm (3/16 inch) c Attach zigzag foot "J". J g After sewing is finished, remove the paper. INDEX • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). 108 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Scallop stitching a Attach monogramming foot "N". The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called "smocking". It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric. a Attach zigzag foot "J". • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). b . c not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric. Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure b stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the the thread tension. • For details, refer to "Adjusting the stitch length" (page 56) and "Thread tension" (page 53). c (3/8 inch). Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm • For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn. d Trim along the stitches. UTILITY STITCHES 1 SEWING BASICS • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). GETTING READY J Select stitch 21 CONTENTS The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells is called "scalloping". It is used on the collars of blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs. Smocking a 1 cm (3/8 inch) d Smooth the gathers by ironing them. Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers. APPENDIX • It is not necessary to sew reverse/ reinforcement stitches or cut the thread. • Be careful not to cut the stitches. INDEX Decorative Stitching 109 UTILITY STITCHES e , 26 or 27 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). Stitch between the straight stitches. Shell tuck stitching a Fold the fabric along the bias. b Attach zigzag foot "J". GETTING READY g Select stitch 25 CONTENTS f ——————————————————————————————————————————— The gathers that look like shells are called "shell tucks". They are used to decorate trims, the front of blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics. Pull out the threads for the straight stitches. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). Select stitch 20 , and then increase the thread • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). Sew while making sure that the needle drops d slightly off the edge of the fabric. 110 INDEX a Needle drop point APPENDIX 1 UTILITY STITCHES c tension. SEWING BASICS J ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— e down to one side. Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks Joining a Attach zigzag foot "J". CONTENTS Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when making a crazy quilt. J Sew together the right sides of the two pieces b of fabric, and then open up the seam GETTING READY • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). allowances. SEWING BASICS 2 1 1 c Select stitch 22 , 23 or 24 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). d up, and then sew over the seam with the UTILITY STITCHES 3 a Wrong side of fabric b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance c Straight stitch Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces APPENDIX center of the presser foot aligned with the seam. 1 Decorative Stitching 111 INDEX a Right side of fabric UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Heirloom stitching CAUTION a Install the wing needle. • For details on installing a needle, refer to "Replacing the needle" (page 35). Partially removing threads is called "drawnwork". This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a loose weave. Two ways to create drawnwork are described below. ■ Drawnwork (Example 1) b SEWING BASICS • The needle threader cannot be used with the wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine may be damaged. Manually pass the thread through the eye of the needle from the front to the back. Attach monogramming foot "N". Pull out several threads from the fabric. b Attach monogramming foot "N". UTILITY STITCHES a • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). c Select a stitch. The stitches that can be used are 33 , 34 , 35 or 41 . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). • Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less. d Start sewing. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). c Select stitch 33 APPENDIX , 36 , 37 , 38 , 39 , 40 GETTING READY • Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle. ● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle may bend or break. ● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly turn the balance wheel toward you and check that the needle does not touch the presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, the needle may bend or break. CONTENTS When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin or mediumweight fabrics in addition to plain weave fabrics. . INDEX • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). 112 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew d along the right edge of the frayed section. Sew along the other edge of the frayed section j so that it looks like the previous stitching. Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. Press , f is selected. Press and Set the mirror image pattern setting back to . (Arrow keys) until SEWING BASICS g , k (OK key). X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern appears. to select . , press UTILITY STITCHES Press h To return to GETTING READY e N CONTENTS N . X The pattern is flipped. Press APPENDIX i (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. INDEX Decorative Stitching 113 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Drawnwork (Example 2) CONTENTS about 4 mm (3/16 inch). a 4 mm (3/16 inch) b Attach monogramming foot "N". Select stitch 36 d Sew along the center of the unfrayed section. . • For details, refer to "Selecting stitching" (page 66). APPENDIX c UTILITY STITCHES • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). SEWING BASICS 1 GETTING READY Pull out several threads from two sections of a the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of N INDEX 114 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns Sewing beautiful patterns Sewing patterns a ■ Needles and threads When sewing thin, mediumweight or stretch fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine needle. In addition, 75/11 to 90/14 thread should be used. • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). b Select a stitch. c Start sewing. • For details, refer to steps d through "Selecting stitching" (page 66). i of UTILITY STITCHES ■ Trial sewing Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric being sewn and whether or not stabilizer material is used, the desired result may not be achieved. Be sure to sew a trial piece of fabric before sewing your project. In addition, while sewing, be sure to guide the fabric with your hands in order to prevent the fabric from slipping. SEWING BASICS ■ Fabric Before sewing stretch or thin fabrics or fabrics with a coarse weave, affix the optional stabilizer material to the wrong side of the fabric or place a thin sheet of paper, such as tracing paper, under the fabric. Since material puckering or bunched stitches may occur when satin stitches are sewn, be sure to affix stabilizer material to the fabric. Attach monogramming foot "N". GETTING READY In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following must be considered. CONTENTS Satin stitches, cross-stitches and decorative satin stitches can be sewn. All are sewn with monogramming foot "N". APPENDIX • The stitching is sewn in the direction indicated by the arrow. d When sewing with a character stitch, Sew reinforcement stitches. reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn after each character. Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 115 INDEX • When sewing a pattern with a stitch other than a character stitch, it is useful to first set the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching setting. For details, refer to "Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches" (page 57). UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— e trim off any excess threads at the beginning of When you are finished sewing, use scissors to Combining patterns the stitching and between the patterns. CONTENTS Multiple patterns can be combined and sewn together. a (OK key). Select the first pattern, and then press X The first pattern is selected and appears in the LCD. Press the + key in the operation panel. X The screen for selecting a pattern appears again. c (OK key). Select the next pattern, and then press To select a different stitch type, press selection key). (Stitch • To remove a selected pattern, press the C key in the operation panel. The pattern that was selected last is removed. Repeat steps b and c . APPENDIX d UTILITY STITCHES X The combined patterns appear in the LCD. SEWING BASICS b GETTING READY • When the sewing is started, the selected pattern is sewn repeatedly until the sewing machine is stopped. After all of the desired patterns are selected, e start sewing. 1 INDEX a Sewing direction 116 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— X The order that the patterns appear in the LCD is the order that they will be sewn. Repeat sewing patterns Select the pattern. b Press c Press , , and is selected. d Press (OK key). • For details, refer to "Combining patterns" (on the previous page). (Arrow keys) until X The screen for specifying repeat sewing appears. SEWING BASICS (Settings key) in the operation panel. GETTING READY Memo z Up to 70 patterns can be combined. z Some utility stitches cannot be combined. z If multiple patterns have been combined, the sewing machine stops once all the selected patterns displayed in the LCD have been sewn. To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, refer to "Repeat sewing patterns". z The combined pattern can be stored for later use. For details, refer to "Storing a pattern" (page 123). a X The settings screen appears. Press Press to select (repeat sewing). (single sewing), press . UTILITY STITCHES e To return to (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again, and the machine is set to repeatedly sew the selected pattern. APPENDIX f CONTENTS To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, follow the procedure described below. INDEX Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 117 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— 1 2 Checking the selected pattern b Press , , and is selected. c Press (OK key). (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. X The screen for checking the pattern appears. d and check it. Press Press and to scroll through the pattern (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. UTILITY STITCHES e (Arrow keys) until SEWING BASICS Note z If repeated sewing is set, the pattern is repeatedly sewn until the sewing machine is stopped. z If the sewing machine is turned off, the repeated/single sewing setting returns to its default setting. Press GETTING READY a Single b Repeated a CONTENTS Up to 70 patterns can be combined. If all of the selected patterns cannot be displayed in the LCD at the same time, the pattern can be checked according to the following procedure. APPENDIX INDEX 118 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the pattern size CONTENTS The size of decorative stitches, decorative satin stitches, and character stitches in the Gothic font and outline style can be switched between large and small. However, the size of other patterns cannot be changed. Select a stitch. a Select one of the decorative stitches, decorative b Press c Press , , and is selected. d Press (OK key). (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. (Arrow keys) until Memo z The large pattern size is the default. If the small pattern size is selected, small patterns can be combined and connected. z If multiple patterns have been combined, the size of each selected pattern can be specified. SEWING BASICS X The screen for changing the pattern size appears. Press and until the desired size is Select for the small size or select large size. for the APPENDIX X The pattern size is changed. f Press UTILITY STITCHES e selected. GETTING READY satin stitches, or character stitches in either the Gothic font or the outline style. (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. INDEX Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 119 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Changing the stitch density Changing the pattern length a Select a decorative satin stitch a Select a satin stitch b Press b Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. Press Press , , and (Arrow keys) until (OK key). X The settings screen appears. Press , Press , and (Arrow keys) until (OK key). X The screen for changing the length of a satin stitch appears. e selected. Press and until the desired ratio is The length can be set within the range of and . f Press (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again, and the stitching density is changed. ● If the stitching density is too fine, depending on the needle, the stitches may be bunched together, causing the needle to break. 120 Press (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. INDEX CAUTION f APPENDIX X The satin stitch length is changed. UTILITY STITCHES X The screen for specifying the stitching density of the decorative satin stitch appears. Press and until the desired density is e selected. Select for coarser stitching or select for finer stitching. (Settings key) in the operation panel. c is selected. d . SEWING BASICS c is selected. d . GETTING READY The length of one part of a satin stitch can be set to one of five sizes. CONTENTS If a decorative satin stitch has been selected, the stitch density can be changed. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— ■ Examples of step patterns Shifting patterns b Press the + key in the operation panel. SEWING BASICS Select the first pattern in the satin stitch group . X The screen for selecting a pattern appears again. Select or to specify the direction in c which the next pattern is shifted. UTILITY STITCHES X The next pattern selected is moved half a width to either the right or the left. d Press the + key in the operation panel. e Select the next pattern. GETTING READY a CONTENTS Satin stitches can be shifted to the left or right by half the width of the pattern, allowing you to create a step-shaped pattern. This is called a "step pattern".As an example, the procedure for creating the following pattern is described below. APPENDIX X The screen for selecting a pattern appears again. INDEX X The patterns are combined. f repeatedly. Specify that the patterns will be sewn • For details, refer to "Repeat sewing patterns" (page 117). Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 121 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Mirror imaging the pattern a Select a stitch. b Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. X The settings screen appears. Press Press , , and (Arrow keys) until (OK key). . X The pattern is mirror imaged. f Press UTILITY STITCHES to select . , press e To return to SEWING BASICS X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern appears. Press GETTING READY c is selected. d CONTENTS The pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical axis. Memo z Some of the utility and decorative patterns can be mirror imaged. z Mirror imaged patterns can also be combined with other patterns. (OK key). 1 2 APPENDIX X The initial stitch screen appears again. a Normal b Mirror-imaged INDEX 122 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Check the contents, and then press g key). Storing a pattern pocket are X "Saving..." appears while the pattern is being stored in the pocket. • Do not turn off the sewing machine while a pattern is being stored, otherwise the pattern data may be lost. ■ Storing a pattern ■ Recalling a pattern • For details, refer to "Combining patterns" (page 116). Press (Stitch selection key) in the operation a panel. X The screen containing the various types of stitches appears. (Stitch selection key) in the operation Press , b is selected. , and (Arrow keys) until X The screen containing the various types of stitches appears. Press , c is selected. , and (Arrow keys) until Press (OK key). X The screen for selecting a pocket appears. Press and until the pocket containing the d pattern that you wish to recall is selected. d Press A pattern is stored in the (OK key). pocket. X The screen for selecting the storage location (pocket) appears. Press and until the pocket (1 through 5) e where you wish to store the pattern is e Press (OK key). X The contents of the selected pocket are displayed. Check the contents, and then press f key). Press (OK APPENDIX selected. indicates an empty pocket. indicates a pocket where a pattern is already stored. f UTILITY STITCHES c SEWING BASICS Press b panel. GETTING READY X After the pattern is stored, the initial stitch screen appears again. Create the combined pattern that you wish to a store. CONTENTS The contents stored in the overwritten. Combined patterns can be stored for later use. Since stored patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is turned off, they can be recalled at any time. This is convenient for patterns, such as names, that will be used often. Up to five patterns can be stored. (OK (OK key). To select a different pocket, press key). (Back X The initial stitch screen appears again, and the pattern from the selected pocket is recalled. Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 123 INDEX X The contents of the selected pocket are displayed. UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— If the pattern appears as shown below, the stitching is misaligned in the vertical direction. Realigning the pattern CONTENTS The pattern may not be sewn correctly, depending on the type of fabric being sewn or the sewing speed. If this occurs, adjust the pattern while sewing on a piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used for your project. a Attach monogramming foot "N". • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). b panel. Press (Stitch selection key) in the operation c is selected, and then select , , and (Arrow keys) until . If the pattern is not sewn correctly, follow the steps below to adjust the sewing. f Press X The settings screen appears. , and (Arrow keys) until is selected. To adjust the vertical position, select . To adjust the horizontal position, select . X The pattern alignment stitch is selected. , Start sewing. X The sewing machine stops after it has finished sewing the pattern. h Press (OK key). X The screen for adjusting the pattern appears. ■ Vertical pattern adjustment APPENDIX X The pattern for making the adjustment is sewn. UTILITY STITCHES Press g or d (Settings key) in the operation panel. SEWING BASICS X The screen containing the various types of stitches appears. Press GETTING READY If the pattern appears as shown below, the stitching is misaligned in the horizontal direction. Check the sewn pattern. e If the part of the pattern indicated in the illustration is sewn uniformly, the pattern is correctly aligned. ■ Horizontal pattern adjustment INDEX 124 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— i Press (–) or (+). CONTENTS X Make the necessary adjustments according to how the pattern is sewn. ■ Vertical pattern adjustment to increase the adjustment setting. Press to decrease the adjustment setting. GETTING READY Press SEWING BASICS ■ Horizontal pattern adjustment Press to decrease the adjustment setting. APPENDIX to increase the adjustment setting. UTILITY STITCHES Press Start sewing again, and then check the pattern. j Continue adjusting the pattern until it is sewn correctly. INDEX k (OK key). When the pattern is sewn correctly, press X The initial stitch screen appears again. Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 125 UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— Designing a Pattern Mark the points in the pattern that are Drawing a sketch of the pattern c positioned at intersections in the grid, and then link those points with a continuous straight line. CONTENTS With the My Custom Stitch function, you can sew stitch patterns that you design yourself. Prepare a grid sheet set. d Determine the sewing order. 8 11 12 13 If the pattern will be repeated, determine the b space between the repeating patterns. 5 7 3 2 0 1 15 14 16 17 For a more attractive stitch, close the pattern by intersecting the line. UTILITY STITCHES Draw the pattern as one continuous line and with the start point and the end point of the design at the same height. 6 4 10 SEWING BASICS 9 GETTING READY Draw a sketch of the pattern on the grid sheet a set. APPENDIX INDEX 126 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— f and then press Specify the coordinates of the second point, (OK key). Entering the pattern data a Attach monogramming foot "N". X A screen appears, allowing you to specify the settings for the stitching between the two points. Specify whether single stitching or triple Press and to select for single stitching or for triple stitching, and then press (OK key). • For details, refer to "Replacing the presser foot" (page 37). b Turn on the sewing machine. c panel. Press (Stitch selection key) in the operation Press , , and (Arrow keys) until (OK key). d is selected, and then press h Select , and then press (OK key). X The screen for entering a pattern appears. • If you make a mistake while specifying a point, press the C key to erase the last point specified. 2 3 a Number of the current point/Total number of points b Horizontal coordinate (0–75) c Vertical coordinate (0–14) i point. Repeat steps f through h to specify each Up to 99 points can be entered. APPENDIX Check the grid sheet set, and specify the e coordinates of the first point. Press and to select the horizontal coordinate and press and to select the vertical coordinate, and then press (OK key). X A screen for specifying the next point appears. UTILITY STITCHES 1 SEWING BASICS X A screen for selecting the next operation appears. X The screen containing the various types of stitches appears. GETTING READY g stitching will be sewn between the points. CONTENTS Follow the pattern drawn on the grid sheet and program the pattern into the sewing machine. j specified, select After all points in the pattern have been in the screen that appears in step h , and then press (OK key). Designing a Pattern 127 INDEX X The embroidery screen appears. UTILITY STITCHES ——————————————————————————————————————————— k reverse/reinforcement stitching, in the same Specify the various stitching settings, such as way as with other stitches. GETTING READY Memo SEWING BASICS z To store the entered pattern data, store it from the embroidery screen. For details, refer to "Storing a pattern" (page 123). z The pattern in the LCD will appear different from the pattern drawn in the grid sheet set and the actual sewn stitch. Also, refer to these when entering the design. CONTENTS • With this screen displayed, pressing (Back key) allows you to add or remove points. UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 128 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Examples of designs Point Point 38 35 32 30 32 35 41 45 47 44 45 47 50 54 56 55 51 45 70 13 14 13 10 6 3 0 0 4 7 11 13 14 13 10 6 3 0 0 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 0 5 8 11 13 14 14 13 12 11 9 6 3 1 0 0 1 3 5 8 10 12 8 12 7 12 6 10 5 10 16 19 23 22 17 22 23 19 42 11 10 9 8 6 6 3 2 0 2 1 0 0 6 10 6 0 0 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 16 18 21 25 28 33 37 41 43 44 10 12 13 14 14 13 11 8 5 0 20 21 24 23 24 27 27 27 32 27 23 20 16 20 23 27 32 11 7 7 14 7 7 11 7 7 11 14 11 7 3 0 3 7 Point 0 5 4 5 8 7 8 11 11 11 16 11 7 4 0 4 7 11 16 21 7 7 3 7 7 0 7 7 3 7 7 3 0 3 7 11 14 11 7 7 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 Designing a Pattern 129 INDEX 0 0 1 7 10 12 11 8 12 14 14 11 5 3 8 10 13 14 14 12 0 3 5 8 12 17 20 24 27 29 31 32 30 27 24 21 18 16 15 15 Point Point 0 30 32 32 32 33 35 35 37 35 32 30 30 29 26 24 18 13 12 13 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 APPENDIX 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 UTILITY STITCHES 0 0 3 6 10 13 14 13 11 13 14 13 10 6 3 0 0 4 7 11 SEWING BASICS 0 12 18 22 23 21 17 14 12 9 6 3 1 3 6 12 41 43 40 41 Point GETTING READY 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Point Point CONTENTS Enter each of the points indicated in the table to sew the sample stitch. CONTENTS GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 130 CONTENTS 4 APPENDIX Stitch Settings........................................................................................................132 Maintenance..........................................................................................................140 Troubleshooting ....................................................................................................142 GETTING READY The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter. Index .....................................................................................................................150 SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX —————————————————————————————————————————————— APPENDIX Stitch Settings CONTENTS Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in the following table. Triple stretch stitch 2 3 4 6 Zigzag stitch Center Basting stitch 7 Right 5 8 2-point zigzag stitch Manual Auto Manual Programmed Thread-Cutting Walking Foot Auto Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Reverse Reverse + thread-cutting No J Basic stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–5.0 (3/32) (1/64–3/16) Yes J Basic stitching and sewing gathers or pintucks 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–5.0 Reinforcement + (3/32) (1/64–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting Yes – – Attaching zippers, basic J/I stitching, sewing gathers or pintucks, etc. 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes (3/32) (1/64–3/16) Reverse Reverse + thread-cutting No J Attaching sleeves, sewing inseams, sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting J Sewing stretch fabrics and decorative stitching 1.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting J Temporarily securing 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 20 (3/4) 5-30 (3/161-3/16) No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting J Overcasting and attaching appliqués 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) Yes J Beginning sewing from the right needle position 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–5.0 1.4 0.3–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + Yes (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting J Overcasting on mediumweight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + Yes (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting J Overcasting on mediumweight or stretch fabrics, attaching elastic, darning, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting 9 10 Reverse Reverse + thread-cutting No APPENDIX 3-point zigzag stitch Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] UTILITY STITCHES Stretch stitch Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] SEWING BASICS Center Straight stitch Left 1 Application Twin Needle Presser Foot Stitch Name GETTING READY Pattern Utility stitches INDEX 132 Overcasting on thick fabrics 5.0 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting Reinforcement + 2.5 1.0–4.0 No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting J Overcasting on stretch fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting (3/32) (1/32–3/16) J Overcasting on thick or stretch fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/32–3/16) thread-cutting J Overcasting on stretch fabrics and decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 4.0 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + No (3/16) (1/16–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting R Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics 0.0 (0) 3← – 3→ 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting R Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 0.0 (0) 3← – 3→ 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting J Appliqué stitching 3.5 (1/8) J Shell tuck stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 0.2–4.0 Reinforcement + Yes Reinforcement No (3/32) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting Satin scallop stitch 21 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 0.5 0.1–1.0 Reinforcement + No (1/32) (1/64–1/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting N Scallop stitching 22 Joining stitch 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 0.2–4.0 Reinforcement + Yes Reinforcement No (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting J Patchwork stitching, decorative stitching and sewing overcasting on both pieces of fabric, such as with tricot 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + Yes Reinforcement No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting J Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting J Smocking stitching and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + Yes Reinforcement No (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting J Fagoting and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + Yes Reinforcement No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting J Fagoting and decorative stitching 5.0 (3/16) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting J Attaching elastic to stretch fabrics 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.0 0.2–4.0 Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/64–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting 23 25 26 Fagoting stitch Elasticattaching stitch 27 28 Stitch Settings 133 INDEX Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching APPENDIX J 24 Smocking stitch 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 Reinforcement + No (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting UTILITY STITCHES 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) SEWING BASICS 5.0 (3/16) 18 20 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + No (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting Overcasting on thick G fabrics and decorative stitching 17 Shell tuck stitch Walking Foot G 16 19 Manual 3.5 (1/8) 14 Appliqué stitch Auto Programmed Thread-Cutting Overcasting on thin or mediumweight fabrics 15 Blind hem stitch Manual Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching GETTING READY Overcasting stitch Auto Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] G 12 13 Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] CONTENTS 11 Application Twin Needle Stitch Name Presser Foot Pattern ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— 29 Auto Manual Walking Foot Manual Programmed Thread-Cutting 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) J Decorative stitching 4.0 (3/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting J Decorative stitching 5.5 (7/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting N Decorative stitching and elastic-attaching 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.0 0.2–4.0 Reinforcement + Yes Reinforcement No (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting 3.5 (1/8) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 2.5 1.6–4.0 Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting Lace sewing, decorative N hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. 34 2.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting 6.0 1.5–7.0 (15/64) (1/16–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 1.5–4.0 Reinforcement + No (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting N Decorative hemming on thin, mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 3.5 (1/8) 1.5–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting N Decorative hemming on thin, mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 4.0 (3/16) 1.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No 1/16–3/16) thread-cutting N Decorative hemming on thin, mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting N Decorative hemming on thin, mediumweight and plain weave fabrics, heirloom stitching, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 2.0 1.5–4.0 Reinforcement + Yes Reinforcement No (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 3.0 (1/8) 35 37 38 39 Decorative hemming, N ribbon threading, heirloom stitching, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 40 Decorative stitching, N smocking stitching, heirloom stitching, etc. 6.0 1.5–7.0 (15/64) (1/16–1/4) 1.6 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting 41 Decorative stitching, N smocking stitching, heirloom stitching, etc. 5.0 (3/16) 1.6 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting 1.5–7.0 (1/16–1/4) 1.5–4.0 Reinforcement + No (1/16–3/16) Yes Reinforcement thread-cutting UTILITY STITCHES Decorative hemming, heirloom stitching, etc. SEWING BASICS N GETTING READY 4.0 (3/16) 32 36 Auto Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Decorative stitching 31 Decorative stitch Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] J 30 33 Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Twin Needle Application CONTENTS Presser Foot Stitch Name —————————————————————————————————————————————— Pattern APPENDIX APPENDIX INDEX 134 43 Thread-cutting No Horizontal buttonholes A on areas that are subject to strain 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 0.2–1.0 Automatic No (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement Thread-cutting No 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 0.2–1.0 Automatic No (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement Thread-cutting No A Secured buttonholes for 5.0 fabrics that have backings (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 0.2–1.0 Automatic No (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement Thread-cutting No A Buttonholes for stretch or 6.0 (15/54) knit fabrics 3.0–6.0 (1/8– 15/ 64) 1.0 0.5–2.0 Automatic (1/16) (1/32–1/16) No reinforcement Thread-cutting No A Buttonholes for stretch fabrics 6.0 (15/54) 3.0–6.0 (1/8– 15/ 64) 1.5 (1/16) Automatic No reinforcement Thread-cutting No 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–6.0 (0–15/64) 2.0 0.2–4.0 Automatic No (1/16) (1/64–3/16) reinforcement Thread-cutting No 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic No (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement Thread-cutting No 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic No (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement Thread-cutting No A Keyhole buttonholes for A mediumweight and thick fabrics 51 Horizontal buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic No (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement Thread-cutting No A Darning mediumweight fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.0 0.4–2.5 Automatic (1/16) (1/64–3/32) No reinforcement Thread-cutting No A Darning thick fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 2.5–7.0 (3/32–1/4) 2.0 0.4–2.5 Automatic (1/16) (1/64–3/32) No reinforcement Thread-cutting No Reinforcing openings and A areas where the seam easily comes loose 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 0.4 0.3–1.0 Automatic (1/64) (1/64–1/16) No reinforcement Thread-cutting No M Button sewing 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–4.5 (3/32–3/16) – – 7.0, 6.0, 5.0 (1/4, 15/64, 3/16) 53 57 Piecing straight stitch Zigzag stitch (for quilting) N Sewing eyelets, for example, on belts 7.0 (1/4) 7.0, 6.0, 5.0 (1/4, 15/64, 3/16) 7.0 (1/4) J Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm from the right edge of the presser foot) 5.5 (7/32) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 0.2–5.0 Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting J Piecing straight stitching (with a seam allowance of 6.5 mm from the left edge of the presser foot) 1.5 (1/16) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.6 0.2–5.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + Yes (1/16) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting J Straight stitch quilting that looks hand-sewn 0.0 (0) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + No Reinforcement No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting J Appliqué quilting, freemotion quilting, satin stitching 3.5 (1/8) 0.0–7.0 (0–1/4) 1.4 (1/16) 58 59 60 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) No Automatic reinforcement Thread-cutting No No Reinforcement Reinforcement + Yes thread-cutting Stitch Settings 135 INDEX Straight stitch that looks hand-sewn (for quilting) No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting APPENDIX 56 UTILITY STITCHES A 52 Eyelet stitch Keyhole buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) SEWING BASICS Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics GETTING READY A 49 55 Walking Foot 0.4 0.2–1.0 Automatic No (1/64) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement A Bound buttonholes Buttonsewing stitch Twin Needle 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 47 54 Manual Programmed Thread-Cutting 5.0 (3/16) 48 Bar tack stitch Auto Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching Manual 46 Darning stitch Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Auto 45 50 Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Horizontal buttonholes A on thin and mediumweight fabrics 44 Buttonhole stitch Application CONTENTS 42 Presser Foot Stitch Name Pattern ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Quilting stitch (for stippling) 61 71 Walking Foot Twin Needle S Sewing straight stitches while cutting the fabric 0.0 (0) 0.0–2.5 (0–3/32) 2.5 0.2–5.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/64–3/16) thread-cutting S Sewing zigzag stitches while cutting the fabric 3.5 (1/8) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 1.4 (1/16) S Overcasting on thin and mediumweight fabrics while cutting the fabric 3.5 (1/8) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 2.0 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting S Overcasting on thick fabrics while cutting the fabric 5.0 (3/16) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 2.5 1.0–4.0 Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement thread-cutting S Overcasting on mediumweight and thick fabrics while cutting the fabric 5.0 (3/16) 3.5–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 2.5 1.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (3/32) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting Attaching appliqués to N sleeves (straight stitch sewn to the left) – – – – No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting Attaching appliqués to N sleeves (straight stitch sewn to the right) – – – – No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting Attaching appliqués to N sleeves (zigzag stitch sewn to the left) – – – – No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting Attaching appliqués to N sleeves (zigzag stitch sewn to the right) – – – – No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting 0.0–4.0 (0–3/16) No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No thread-cutting UTILITY STITCHES 1.6 1.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting SEWING BASICS 1.0–-7.0 (1/16–1/4) GETTING READY 7.0 (1/4) 67 Horizontal zigzag stitch Manual Quilting background stitching (stippling) 66 70 Auto Programmed Thread-Cutting J 65 69 Manual Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitching 1.5 0.5–5.0 1.2 1.0–4.0 No Reinforcement Reinforcement + No (1/16) (1/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) thread-cutting 64 Horizontal straight stitch Auto Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Attaching appliqués and binding 63 68 Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] J 62 Side cutter Application CONTENTS Appliqué stitch (for quilting) Presser Foot Stitch Name —————————————————————————————————————————————— Pattern APPENDIX APPENDIX INDEX 136 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Decorative stitches 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29* 30* 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 N No Left/Right Flipping Adjustable Pattern Length/width Adjustable Stitching Density Pattern Size Large: No Large, No Small: Small Yes (*Not possible) Yes 31** 1 Satin stitches 12 13 14 15 16 17* 18* 1 2 3 4 5 6* 7* Decorative 1 satin stitches 2 3 4 5 6 7 8* 8 N 9* 9 Yes (*Not Large possible) No Yes Yes (*Not (*Not possible) possible) No Yes (*Not possible) Yes Yes (length only) Yes 10* N No Large N No Large, Small Yes 10 UTILITY STITCHES Crossstitches 11 10 SEWING BASICS 2 GETTING READY 1 Twin Needle Pattern CONTENTS Stitch Type Presser Foot Other stitches ** Pattern for making adjustment APPENDIX INDEX Stitch Settings 137 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Character stitches (Gothic font) 51 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Character stitches (Script font) 51 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 138 Left/Right Flipping 8 Adjustable Pattern Length/width 7 Adjustable Stitching Density 6 N No Large, Small No No Yes N No Large No No Yes INDEX 5 APPENDIX 4 UTILITY STITCHES 3 SEWING BASICS 2 GETTING READY 1 Pattern Size Pattern CONTENTS Stitch Type Twin Needle —————————————————————————————————————————————— Presser Foot APPENDIX 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 No Large, Small Pattern Size N Left/Right Flipping 5 Adjustable Pattern Length/width 4 Adjustable Stitching Density 3 Twin Needle 2 No No Yes SEWING BASICS 1 GETTING READY Character stitches (Outline style) Pattern CONTENTS Stitch Type Presser Foot ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX Stitch Settings 139 APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Maintenance CONTENTS Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below. Cleaning the machine surface Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the shuttle; therefore, it should be cleaned periodically. a Turn off the sewing machine. CAUTION ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. ● Unplug the power supply cord before cleaning the machine, otherwise injuries or an electric shock may occur. Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and b then slide it toward you. SEWING BASICS CAUTION GETTING READY If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth. Cleaning the shuttle UTILITY STITCHES 1 X The needle plate cover is removed. c tip of the shuttle hook aligns with the edge of Turn the balance wheel toward you until the APPENDIX a Bobbin cover the race shelf. 1 a b c d 140 Shuttle race Shuttle Edge of the shuttle race Tip of the shuttle hook INDEX 2 3 4 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— • Be sure to turn the balance wheel toward you. Turning the balance wheel away from you may damage the machine. g the needle plate, and then slide the cover back Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into on. CONTENTS Remove the shuttle. d Grasp the shuttle, and then pull it out. a Shuttle Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to e remove any lint and dust from the race and its surrounding area. 1 SEWING BASICS ● Never use a shuttle that is scratched, otherwise the upper thread may become tangled, the needle may break or sewing performance may suffer. For a new shuttle (part code: XC3153-051), contact your nearest authorized service center. ● Be sure that the shuttle is correctly installed, otherwise the needle may break. GETTING READY CAUTION 1 2 UTILITY STITCHES a Cleaning brush b Shuttle race • Do not apply oil to the shuttle. Check that the edge of the race shelf is c , and then insert the shuttle so that the projection on the shuttle aligns with the spring. f positioned as in step APPENDIX 1 2 INDEX 2 1 a Projection b Spring Maintenance 141 APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Troubleshooting Symptom Remedy page 11 The start/stop button was not pressed. Press the start/stop button. page 48 The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. The start/stop button was pressed, even though the foot controller is connected. Do not use the start/stop button when the foot controller is connected. To use the start/stop button, disconnect the foot controller. The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. The needle clamp screw is loose. Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. The combination of fabric, thread and needle is not correct. Select a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn. page 34 The presser foot that is used is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. page 132 page 48 page 35 page 53 Lightly guide the fabric. – The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. The area around the hole in the needle plate is scratched, or has a burr on it. Replace the needle plate. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. – The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched, or has a burr on it. Replace the presser foot. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. – The shuttle is scratched, or has a burr on it. Replace the shuttle. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. – A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is not used. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin designed specifically for this machine. page 24 page 18 INDEX The fabric is pulled too much. APPENDIX 142 – UTILITY STITCHES Turn on the machine. SEWING BASICS The machine is not turned on. The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. The needle breaks. Reference GETTING READY The sewing machine does not operate. Probable Cause CONTENTS If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. If the problem persists, contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Remedy Reference Correct the upper threading. page 24 There are knots or tangles in the thread. Remove any knots or tangles. – The selected needle is not appropriate for the thread being used. Select a needle that is appropriate for the type of thread being used. page 34 The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 53 The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. The area around the hole in the needle plate is scratched, or has a burr on it. Replace the needle plate. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. – The area around the hole in the presser foot is scratched, or has a burr on it. Replace the presser foot. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. – The shuttle is scratched, or has a burr on it. Replace the shuttle. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. – A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is not used. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin designed specifically for this machine. page 18 The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 22 The bobbin is scratched or does not rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it. Replace the bobbin. The thread is tangled. Remove the tangled thread and clean the shuttle. page 140 A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is not used. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin designed specifically for this machine. page 18 page 35 The lower thread is tangled or breaks. – Troubleshooting 143 INDEX Replace the needle. APPENDIX The needle is bent or blunt. page 140 UTILITY STITCHES Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean the shuttle. SEWING BASICS The thread is tangled, for example, in the shuttle. GETTING READY The upper thread was not threaded correctly (for example, the spool is not installed correctly, the spool cap is too big for the spool being used, or the thread has come out of the needle bar thread hook). CONTENTS The upper thread breaks. Probable Cause APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom page 24 The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the bobbin thread. page 22 The combination of fabric, thread and needle is not correct. Select a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn. page 34 The presser foot holder is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the presser foot holder. page 39 The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 53 A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is not used. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin designed specifically for this machine. page 18 The upper thread was not threaded correctly, or the bobbin is incorrectly installed. Correctly thread the upper thread and correctly install the bobbin thread. page 22, page 24 The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 24 The combination of fabric, thread and needle is not correct. Select a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn. page 34 The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 35 If thin fabrics are being sewn, the stitch is too long. Shorten the stitch length or sew with stabilizer material under the fabric. page 56 The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 53 The upper thread was not threaded correctly. Correct the upper threading. page 24 The combination of fabric, thread and needle is not correct. Select a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric being sewn. page 34 The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 35 The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 35 Dust has accumulated under the needle plate or in the shuttle. Remove the needle plate cover and clean the shuttle. page 140 APPENDIX Correct the upper threading. UTILITY STITCHES The upper thread was not threaded correctly. SEWING BASICS Stitches are skipped. Reference GETTING READY The fabric is wrinkled. Remedy CONTENTS The thread tension is incorrect. Probable Cause INDEX 144 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference page 24 The shuttle is scratched, or has a burr on it. Replace the shuttle.Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. – A bobbin designed specifically for this machine is not used. Incorrect bobbins will not work properly. Only use a bobbin designed specifically for this machine. page 18 The needle was not raised. Press the needle position button to raise the needle. page 27 The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 35 The presser foot that is used is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. page 132 The thread tension is incorrect. Adjust the tension of the upper thread. page 53 The thread is tangled, for example, in the shuttle. Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean the shuttle. page 140 The feed dogs are lowered. Slide the drop feed lever to the left. page 97 The stitch is too close. Lengthen the stitch length. page 56 The presser foot that is used is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew. page 132 The pressure of the presser foot is weak. Turn the presser foot pressure dial to the right to increase the pressure of the presser foot. page 39 The thread is tangled, for example, in the shuttle. Remove the tangle thread. If the thread is tangled in the shuttle, clean the shuttle. page 140 The sewing lamp does not come on. The sewing lamp is damaged. Contact your retailer or the nearest authorized service center. – Nothing appears in the LCD. The brightness of the LCD is either too light or too dark. Adjust the brightness of the LCD. page 147 A high-pitched noise is made while sewing. The needle threader cannot be used. The stitch is not sewn correctly. The fabric does not feed. APPENDIX Correct the upper threading. UTILITY STITCHES The upper thread was not threaded correctly. SEWING BASICS page 140 GETTING READY Clean the shuttle. CONTENTS Dust has accumulated in the feed dogs or in the shuttle. INDEX Troubleshooting 145 APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Error messages Error Message Probable Cause CONTENTS If the start/stop button is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is performed incorrectly, an error message appears in the LCD. Follow the instructions that appear. If you press (OK key), (Back key) or do the operation correctly while the error message is displayed, the message disappears. The motor locked up because the thread is tangled. The reverse/reinforcement stitch button, needle position button or thread cutter button was pressed while the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right. A stitch other than the buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the start/stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is lowered. The buttonhole, bar tack or darning stitch was selected and the start/ stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised. A pattern is being stored. The bobbin winder is winding the bobbin. The start/stop button was pressed without connecting the foot controller while the setting for adjusting the stitch width using the sewing speed controller is set to [ON]. APPENDIX More than 71 patterns are being combined. UTILITY STITCHES The start/stop button or reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed after a stitch has been deleted. SEWING BASICS The start/stop button was pressed while the foot controller was connected. GETTING READY The start/stop button, reverse/reinforcement stitch button or thread cutter button was pressed while the presser foot was raised. The twin needle setting is selected while a pattern that cannot be sewn with the twin needle is selected. The selected setting cannot be changed with the selected pattern. 146 INDEX The first pattern was selected while two or more patterns are combined. ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Nothing appears in the LCD a Turn off the sewing machine. While pressing (Back key) in the operation Press (–) or (+). screens can be seen. Turn off the sewing machine, then turn it on d again. Turn off the sewing machine. b operation panel pressed, turn on the sewing While holding (Settings key) in the machine. c (Settings key). When the sewing machine beeps, release X The tension of the upper thread can now be adjusted using the stitch keys. ■ To decrease the tension of the upper thread Press in the operation panel. UTILITY STITCHES ■ To increase the tension of the upper thread Press in the operation panel. SEWING BASICS c Adjust the brightness of the LCD so that the a GETTING READY b panel, turn on the sewing machine. The sewing machine can be set up so that the tension of the upper thread can easily be adjusted. CONTENTS If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is either too light or too dark. If this is the case, perform the following operation. Easily adjusting the thread tension 1 2 APPENDIX a Loose b Tight Memo Troubleshooting 147 INDEX z This setting does not change if the sewing machine is turned off. z If the sewing machine is set up in this way, these keys cannot be used to select stitches. To use these keys for selecting stitches, perform the same operation described above to return the sewing machine to its original setup. APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Operation beep ■ For a correct operation One beep is sounded. ■ If an incorrect operation is performed Two or four beeps are sounded. When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to beep each time an operation panel key is pressed. This setting can be changed so that the machine does not beep. a Turn on the sewing machine. seconds. The machine automatically stops. X The LCD comes on. correct it before continuing to sew. b Press (Settings key) in the operation panel. c is selected. Press Press , and (Arrow keys) until (OK key). X The screen for changing the beep setting appears. Press to select . , press . APPENDIX e To return to UTILITY STITCHES d , SEWING BASICS X The settings screen appears. GETTING READY ■ If the machine locks up, for example, because the thread is tangled The sewing machine continues to beep for four Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and CONTENTS Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation is performed, a beep is sounded. Cancelling the operation beep X The machine is now set so that it will not beep. 148 Press (OK key). X The initial stitch screen appears again. INDEX f ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— Removing the upper cover CONTENTS If the upper cover of the sewing machine was removed, re-attach it as described in the following procedure. a Hold the upper cover level. GETTING READY b the machine. Push the upper cover down to re-attach it to SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX Troubleshooting 149 APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— Index + key ....................................................................Cover E Numerics A D darning .......................................................................102 decorative stitching ..................................................... 107 designing patterns .......................................................126 F back key ...............................................................Cover E balance wheel ...............................................Cover C, 47 bar tack .......................................................................100 baseline ........................................................................73 basic stitching ...............................................................73 basting ..........................................................................72 blind hem stitch ............................................................74 bobbin ...........................................................Cover A, 22 bobbin cover .................................................Cover C, 23 bobbin thread ...............................................................22 pulling up ...............................................................31 bobbin winder ...............................................Cover B, 19 bobbin winder seat .......................................................20 bobbin winder shaft spring ............................................19 bobbin-winding ....................................................... 2, 18 brightness .....................................................................16 built-in stitches ............................................................... 2 button sewing ........................................................ 77, 81 buttonhole foot ............................................................. 80 buttonhole lever ........................... Cover C, 78, 101, 103 buttonhole stitching ......................................................76 fagoting .......................................................................108 features ...........................................................................2 feed dog position switch ............................... Cover C, 97 feed dogs ...................................................... Cover C, 97 flat bed attachment .............................................. Cover B flipping .......................................................................122 foot controller ............................................... Cover A, 48 foot controller jack ............................................... Cover C free-arm sewing ............................................................42 free-motion quilting ......................................................97 front view ............................................................ Cover B H handle ................................................................. Cover C hard case ............................................................. Cover A heirloom stitching .......................................................112 horizontal stitching ..................................................... 105 I APPENDIX B UTILITY STITCHES elastic tape ....................................................................90 electrical outlet .............................................................11 error messages ............................................................146 even seam allowance ....................................................64 extra spool pin .............................................. Cover A, 29 eyelet ..........................................................................104 eyelet punch .........................................Cover A, 79, 104 E SEWING BASICS accessories ........................................................... Cover A adjustable zipper/piping foot ..........................Cover A, 88 adjusting the thread tension .......................................... 53 air vent ................................................................ Cover C appliqué .......................................................................93 arrow keys ............................................................Cover E automatic reinforcement stitching .................................57 automatic reverse stitching ............................................57 automatic thread-cutting .......................................... 2, 58 GETTING READY 1/4 inch quilting foot .....................................Cover A, 95 2-point zigzag stitch ......................................................69 3-point zigzag stitch ......................................................69 creating patterns ......................................................... 126 cross-stitch ..................................................................115 cross-wound thread ......................................................19 curves ...........................................................................62 cylindrical pieces ..........................................................42 CONTENTS Symbols Inserting a piping ..........................................................89 C 150 J joining ........................................................................ 111 joining stitch .................................................................92 K knee lifter ..................................................Cover A, 2, 61 knee lifter mounting slot ...................................... Cover B INDEX C key ....................................................................Cover E changing machine settings ............................................14 changing sewing direction ............................................62 changing the needle ......................................................35 changing the settings .....................................................14 checking patterns ........................................................118 cleaning ......................................................................140 cleaning brush .............................................Cover A, 141 combining patterns .....................................................116 crazy quilt stitching .......................................................94 ———————————————————————————————————————————————————— L M realigning ....................................................................124 realigning patterns ......................................................124 rear view .............................................................. Cover C recalling a pattern .......................................................123 reinforcement stitching ................................. 50, 57, 100 repeat sewing ..............................................................117 replacing the needle .............................................. 33, 35 reverse/reinforcement stitch button ......................Cover D N S thick fabrics ..................................................................63 P Index 151 INDEX T quick reference guide .......................................... Cover A OK key .................................................................Cover E open toe foot ....................................................... Cover A openings .....................................................................100 operating procedures ....................................................13 operation beep ............................................................148 operation buttons ..................................Cover B, Cover D operation manual ................................................. Cover A operation panel ...................................... Cover B, Cover E optional accessories ........................................................1 original patterns ..........................................................126 overcasting stitches .......................................................68 APPENDIX Q O UTILITY STITCHES patchwork stitching .......................................................94 pattern length ..............................................................120 pattern size .................................................................119 patterns .......................................................................115 piecing ..........................................................................94 piping inserting ............................................................. 89 pocket corners ............................................................100 positioning fabric ..........................................................47 power supply jack ..........................................Cover C, 11 presser foot ....................................................Cover C, 37 presser foot dial .............................................Cover C, 39 presser foot holder .........................................Cover C, 39 presser foot lever ..................................................Cover D presser foot pressure .....................................................39 programmed thread-cutting ...........................................58 safety instructions ............................................... 6, 8, 10 satin stitch ...................................................................115 satin stitching ................................................................98 saving patterns ............................................................123 saving stitch settings ......................................................60 scallop stitching ..........................................................109 screen language ............................................................17 screwdriver ................................................... Cover A, 36 seam ripper ................................................... Cover A, 79 selecting stitching .........................................................66 settings ..........................................................................14 settings key .................................................... Cover E, 14 sewing machine help key ............................... Cover E, 13 sewing machine needles ...............................................33 sewing speed ................................................................48 sewing speed controller ................. Cover B, Cover D, 98 shell tuck stitch ...........................................................110 shutter ...........................................................................26 shuttle .................................................................. 22, 140 shuttle hook ................................................................140 side cutter ..................................................... Cover A, 70 side view ............................................................. Cover C size .............................................................................119 sleeves ........................................................................ 100 smocking ....................................................................109 spool cap ................................................Cover A, 19, 25 spool net ....................................................... Cover A, 31 spool pin ................................................. Cover B, 19, 25 start/stop button ............................................ Cover D, 48 starting to sew ...............................................................48 step pattern .................................................................121 stitch density ...............................................................120 stitch guide foot ............................................ Cover A, 64 stitch keys .............................................................Cover E stitch length ..................................................................56 stitch selection key ................................................Cover E stitch settings ..............................................................132 stitch width ...................................................................55 controlling ..............................................................98 storing patterns ...........................................................123 straight stitch ...............................................................132 stretch fabrics ......................................................... 63, 90 SEWING BASICS needle ...........................................................................33 needle bar thread hook ..................................Cover C, 26 needle clamp screw ......................................................36 needle plate ...................................................Cover C, 64 needle plate cover ......................................................140 needle position ...................................................... 55, 73 needle position button .........................................Cover D needle set ............................................................ Cover A needle stop position ......................................................16 needle threader lever .....................................Cover B, 27 non stick foot .................................................Cover A, 64 GETTING READY main power switch ........................................Cover C, 11 maintenance ...............................................................140 mirror image ...............................................................122 R CONTENTS language .......................................................................17 LCD ................................................Cover E, 12, 16, 147 brightness ...................................................... 16, 147 leather/vinyl fabrics .......................................................64 lower threading ........................................................ 2, 22 quilting .........................................................................96 quilting foot .................................................. Cover A, 97 quilting guide ................................................ Cover A, 96 APPENDIX —————————————————————————————————————————————— upper cover ................................... Cover B, 19, 25, 149 upper thread .................................................................24 upper thread tension ................................................ 2, 54 upper threading ....................................................... 2, 24 walking foot ............................................ Cover A, 40, 96 wide table ................................................................ 1, 42 wing needle ................................................................112 Z SEWING BASICS W GETTING READY U CONTENTS thin fabrics ....................................................................63 thread cutter ..................................................Cover B, 52 thread cutter button ...................................... Cover D, 51 thread guide cover .................................. Cover B, 20, 26 thread guide discs ..........................................Cover C, 27 thread guide for bobbin winding .......................... Cover B thread guide plate .......................................... Cover B, 26 thread tension ...............................................................54 thread tension adjusting ................................ 53, 54, 147 thread tension dial ........................................................53 thread that quickly unwinds .......................................... 31 trial sewing ...................................................................62 triple stretch stitch ....................................................... 100 troubleshooting ........................................................... 142 twin needle ............................................. Cover A, 28, 36 zipper stitching ...................................................... 83, 88 UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX INDEX 152 English 882-S64 XC5427-051 Printed in Taiwan
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