Craftsman 113198251 User Manual 10 INCH ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW Manuals And Guides L0803498

CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Manual L0803498 CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Owner's Manual, CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial installation guides

User Manual: Craftsman 113198251 113198251 CRAFTSMAN CRAFTSMAN 10-INCH ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your CRAFTSMAN CRAFTSMAN 10-INCH ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW #113198251. Home:Tool Parts:Craftsman Parts:Craftsman CRAFTSMAN 10-INCH ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW Manual

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10" ELECTRONIC

RADIAL SAW WITH

23" CABINET AND

1 DOOR

10" ELECTRONIC

RADIAL SAW WITH

LEG SET

Serial

Number

Model and serial numbers

may be found at the rear of

the base

You should record both

model and serial number in

a safe place for future use,

CAUTION:

READ ALL

INSTRUCTIONS

CAREFULLY

113°198211_\

113o19825t

10-.INCH ELECTRONUC

RADIAL SAW

®Assembly

®Operating

® Repair parts

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, JL. 60684 U.S.A.

Part No, SP5102 Printed in U,S,A

FULLONEYEARWARRANTYONCRAFTSMANRADIALSAW

!t within one year from the date of purchase, this Craftsman Radial Saw fails due to a defect in material or

workmanship, Sears wilt repair it, free of charge.

WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY SIMPLY CONTACTING THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE

CENTER/DEPARTMENT THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES,

This warranty applies only while this product is used in the United States.=

This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO, DEPT. 698/73tA Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684

i1,1 ,,i,1,1111 i, ,,

Table of Contents

,i ,i,, i .... , ii III II

Section Title Page Numbers

Safety Information ......................................................... 3-6

Putting Your Saw Iogether. .............................................. 7-18

Location and Function of Controls ..................................... t9-22

Alignment of Blade ..................................................... 23-38

Digital Display .................................. ........................... 39-44

Electrica! Connections ......................................... 45-46

Crosscutting ............................................................... 47-53

Ripping .................................................................... 54-62

Cutting Accessories ................................................... 63-66

Recommended Accessories .................................................. 67

Glossary ..................................................................... 68

Helpful Hints .......................................................... 69-71

Maintaining Your Saw ................................................ 72-77

"[rouble Shooting ..................................................... 78-83

Parts Lists ............................................................. 84-99

Safety Information ......................

The operator's manual contains safety infor-

mation, instructions and signs for your protec-

tion against serious injuries, including:

I_x)ssof fingers, hand, arm or leg from contact

with the saw blade.

Eye injuries, including being blinded from

being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece

chips or pieces of the saw blade.

Impact injuries, including broken bones and

internal organ damage, from being hit by a

thrown workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces

of the saw blade.

Major Hazards

1. Workpiece Kickback

Kickback is an uncontrolled grabbing and

throwing of the workpiece during ripping. If

kickback occurs, the workpiece can hit

you hard enough to cause broken bones, in-

ternal organ injury or death. To reduce or

prevent kickback, read and follow the safety

information in the Ripping section of the

manual.

Shock, electrocution, or burn injuries from

contact with wires, motor or other saw parts.

Safety Symbol and Signal Words

The safety information in this manual is high-

lighted by the following safety alert symbol.

Fig_ 1Safety Alert Symbol

The following signal words are used to indi-

cate the level of risk.

,_k DANGER: Means that if the safety infor-

mation is not followed, someone will be

seriously injured or killed.

WARNING: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone could be

seriously injured or killed.

,_k CAUTION: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone may be in-

jured.

All of the safety information and cutting

steps are critical to the safe operation of the

radial arm saw.

Fig 2 Kickback Safety Sign

2. Kickback Followed by Blade Contact

Kickback followed by blade contact can hap-

pen when the saw blade is pinched or bound

by the workpiece during ripping. Kickback

can happen if you reach around the blade to

the end with the anti-kickback pawls, (out-

feed end), and try to hold-down or pull the

workpiece through to complete the cut. Your

fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off by the

blade if the workpiece kicks back.

Kickback, Blade

Contact.

Fingers, hand, arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for Ripping

Fig. 3 Blade Contact Safety Sign

3. Wrong Way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece

into the end of the saw with the anti-kickback

pawls_ The worl_iece can be grabbed by the

blade and pull your hands into the blade

before you can let go or pull back. Fingers,

hand or arm carl be cut off°

Fig, 6 Safety Goggles Safety Sign

DANGER: Follow the 8 steps listed

below to reduce or eliminate the risk of

being injured when using the radial arm

saw. Failure to do so can result in a life

threatening injury or death.

Fig 4 Wrong Way Feed Safely Sign

If a workpiece is fed into the end of the saw

with the anti-kickback pawls, it can take off

like a missile. Anyone hit by the workpiece

can be killed. Feed the workpiece into the in-

feed end of the saw blade, the end that does

not have the anti-kickback pawls°

Wrong Way Feed.

Workpiece impact

can kill others.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig 5Wrong Way Feed Safely Sign

4. Thrown Workpiece Chips and Blade

Pieces

The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece

chips or pieces of the blade violently. You

can be blinded_ Wear safety goggles labeled

"ANSI Z87A" on the package.

1. Lower the anti-kickback pawls and

spreader when crosscutting and ripping.

2. Set blade guard in horizontal position

when crosscutting.

3. Lower blade guard nose only when rip-

ping.

4. Keep hands as far away from the blade

as possible when cutting.

5. Return the saw to its rearmost position

after each crosscut.

6, Wait until the blade has stopped turn-

[ng before reaching:for the workpiece or

anything else on the table.

7, Read and follow the: safety information

and safety instructions in the operator's

manual and in the safety labels on the

radia! arm saw,

8. Know location and function of a[1 con-

trols before using saw. See the Location

and Function of Controls section.

Personal Safety

LWear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87A"

on the package. Do not wear regular glasses,

they are not safety glasses.

2. Wear snug fitting clothes, short sleeve

shirts and nonslip footwear. Cover up or tie

long hair. Do not wear loose, baggy clothes,

gleves, neckties, rings, watches or any other

,jewelry.

3. Wear a dust mask, with your safety gog-

gles, if cutting operation is dusty.

4. Wear hearing protectors, ear plugs or

muffs, if you use the saw daily°

5. Keep good footing and balance. Don't over-

reach.

Work Area Safety

1. Keep children, pets and visitors out of the

work area.

2. Make the work area child proof. Remove

the yellow key from the red switch and place

it out of reach and sight. Lock work area.

3. Keep floors dry and free from sawdust, wax

or other slippery materials.

4. Keep work area clean, uncluttered and

well lighted_

5. Use the saw in a dry area. Do not use in

wet or damp area. Do not use outside.

6. Clear the table of all objects (adjusting

wrenches, tools, scraps of wood etc.) except

the workpiece to be cut, fixtures or clamps

before turning the saw on.

7. Do not do layout, assembly or setup work

on the table while the blade is turning.

8. Store items away from the saw. Do not

climb on the saw to reach items. Do not

stand on the table; the saw can tip oven

Saw Safety

!. Keep guards and anti-kickback pawls in

place and in working order.

2. Check for broken or damaged parts before

using saw. A damaged guard or other saw

part should be checked for alignment, bind-

ing, breakage and correct mounting to make

sure they are working properly. Repair or

replace damaged guards or other saw parts.

3. Unplug saw before doing maintenance,

making adjustments, and changing blades and

accessories.

4_ Use clamps or vice to hold workpiece

when practical° It's safer than using your

hands and frees them to operate the saw.

5. Do not force the saw, saw blade or acces-

sories to do jobs they are not designed to do.

6. Make sure the yellow key is removed and

the red switch is in the off position before

plugging in the power cord.

7. Cut only wood, woodlike or plastic

materials. Do not cut metal materials.

8. Secure the saw to floor, wall, bench or

table if it slides, tips or walks during use°

9. Feed the workpiece against the direction

of rotation of the blade when ripping.

!0. Turn the saw off before leaving work

area. Do not leave the saw until the blade

has stopped.

1t. Lock the rip and miter locks before

moving the saw from one location to another°

12. Turn the saw off and remove yellow key if

the blade jams° Do not try to free ajammed

workpiece with the saw on.

13. Turn the saw off if it vibrates excessively

or makes an unfamiliar noise. Correct any

problems before restarting saw.

14. Rip workpieces that are longer than the

diameter of the blade being used. Do not rip

a workpiece that is shorter than the diameter

of the blade being used.

15. Cut only one workpiece at a timer Do

not cut stacked workpieces or lay them edge

to edge for cutting,

Workpiece Support Safety

1. Use additional supports for workpieces

which extend beyond the saw table. Large

workpieces can shift, twist, rise from table or

fall after they are cut.

2. Helpers can be hit by a thrown workpiece,

workpiece chips or pieces of the blade. Use

table extensions or other supports. Do not

use helpers.

3. Helpers can cause the workpiece to kick-

back_ Do not use other people to support or

assist in feeding or pulling the workpiece.

Use table extensions. See Recommended Ac-

cessories section of the manual°

4. When table extensions over 24 inches wide

are added to either side of the saw, make

sure you either bolt the saw to the floor or

support the outer end of the extension from

the floor with sturdy legs or an outrigger.

Blade Safety

1. Use blades marked for 3450 rpm or higher.

2. Do not use blades larger than 10 inches in

diameter.

3J Keep blade sharp and clean.

4_Do not cycle motor switch on and off rapid-

ly; the blade can loosen.

5. Do not overtighten the blade; the blade

collar can be warped°

Safety Labels on the Radial Arm Saw

The following labels are on your radial arm

saw. Locate, read and follow the safety in-

structions and information contained in these

labels.

1. Wrong way feed label located on the out-

feed end of the blade guard.

TO AVOID

INJURY DO NOT

FEED MATERIAL

INTO CUTTING

TOOL FROM

THIS END

Fig, 7 Wrong Way Feed Label

2. Safety instruction label located on the

front of the saw near tile handwheel.

IDAN ERI

FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY:

tReadandunderstandowner'smanua!

before operating machine.

2 Wear safety goggles complying with

ANSI Z87 t,

3Keep hands out el pat h of saw blade

4 Know how to avoid "KICKBACKS','

5 Use "PUSH STICK '_ for narrow work

6 Never reach around the saw blade

7, Never perform any operation

"FREEHAND?

8Returncarriagetothefutlrearposttion

after each cross-cut type operation

9, Shut off power and allow saw blade to

stop before adjusting or servicing

Fig. 8 Safety Instruction Label

3. Ripping safety label located on the motor.

[DANGER I WHENRIPPING ,i, ,,,,11

1Rea=dBndunflot_l_ndownst'_rn_nu_l 5. Uso"PUSH_TICK' for naf_wwork,

before o_ toting mnchtna. _N_ver reor:h around the sow bl0{]e

2 ANslW_t=Qfaty goggtos complyingwtt_zaT.1. 7 Nev_t,,FRE_p_/_NO/,ffotm_rt y opott_lto_t

31K_phallde_oulo(p_thofeawhlt_ds 8 ShuloffpowerandallowP.awb)Qdato

Krlow haw Io avoid "N tCN1EIACI(=-;',' IStop before ad|u_llng or _tvlcllt,_

TO AVOID RUNAWAY WORKPIECE

,'_,%'L%"oW%';_ o%

DANGER AT OUTFEED

WO_p_CO Cart I_dd_y kick t_=¢X

MoIo_ Connected For 120 V, 12 A, 60 HZ, 3450 RPM P_'I 8t6815

For 240V_ 6A Cont_ect See Owner's Manual MsdelCt_HK,273

Fig° 9 Ripping Safety Label

:Putting Your Saw Together .....................................

Your radial arm saw is easy to put together,

however it will take time. Ask a friend to

help, and follow these assembly instructions°

It is important for your safety, and for the

quality of your cuts, that the saw be put

together with care.

This manual was written for two different

models of the radia! arm saw: model

113, 198211 with cabinet and door, and model

t 13.198251 with leg set.

The following assembly sections should be

followed for both models:

Unpacking /Set up

Information

Attaching Handwheel

Mounting Motor

Mounting Saw

Attaching Trim Ledge and Trim Caps

Mounting Table Locks

Mounting the Front Table

All other sections are labelled with the correct

model number_ Follow ONLY instructions

that are meant for your model saw. Both

models work in the same way once they are

put together°

_WARNING: Plugging the saw in

during assembly can result in electrical

shock or your fingers, hand, or arm be-

ing cut off from blade contact. Do not

plug in the saw at any time during as-

sembly. The saw should only be

plugged in when it is to be used.

Unpacking/Set up

Both Models

1. As you unpack, try to keep the contents of

each of the smaller bags together and separate

from the others. This will help you identify and

locate the parts you need during assembly.

The following parts are included with model

I13_198211:

A Basic Saw Assembly ............ 1

B Rear Table .................... 1

C Table Spacer .................. 1

D Rip Fence ...................... 1

E Front Table ..................... 1

F Operators Manual ............... 1

G Loose Parts Bag ................ 5

H Table Mounting, Channel ........ 2

I Trim Cap, R.H ................... 1

J Trim Ledge .................... 1

K Trim Cap, L.H ................. 1

L 23" Cabinet with Door ........... 1

Fig, 10 -Parts for Model !13,t98211

The following parts are included with model

113.198251:

A Basic Saw Assembly ............ !

B Rear Table .................... 1

C Table Spacer .................. t

D Rip Fence ........................ I

E Front Table ................................ 1

F Operators Manual ............... i

G Loose Parts Bag ............... 5

H Table Mounting Channel ........ 2

I Trim Cap, Roll ................. 1

J Trim Ledge .................... 1

K Trim Cap, Loll .................. 1

L Leg ...................................... 4

M Lower Stiffener ,................... 4

N UpperStiffener ................... 4

BCD E F

*This model does not include bellow_

Fig,_11 -Parts for Model 113.198251

2. Identify the large parts of your saw before

beginning each sectiom Your task will be

easier if you are familiar with these parts.

3. Identify the tools required for assembly.

Make sure that you have all of the tools you

will need° (Figure 12)

7/16" WRENCH

112" WRENCH

3/4" WRENCH

314" SOCKET

9/16" SOCKET

MEDIUM SCREWDRIVER

#2 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER

_T"? t;" g_"t?t:'? t_

FRAMING SQUARE

PLIERS PENCIL

SOCKET WRENCH SOCKET EXTENSION 118" HEX "L" WRENCH

Fig° 12 -Tools Required

4. Open the loose parts bags, and sort the

contents into piles on the floor or table. This

will make it easier for' you to find the part(s)

you need during assembly_

The following loose parts are included with

model 113.198211 :

AA Leveling Foot ....................... 4

AB Hex Jam Nut 3/8-16 .............. 8

AC Truss Hd, Bolt 1/4-20 x 1/2 ..... 42

AD External Lockwasher 1/4 ....... 42

AE Hex Nut 1/4-20 ....................... 42

AF Pan Hd. Screw Ty "BT" 1/4 x 1/2 • 6

AA _ AD

AG Hex Hd_ Screw 5/16-18 x 3/4 .... 4

AH Washer 11/32 x 7/8 x t/I6 ....... 4

AI Lockwasher 5/16 ....................... 4

AJ Hex Nut 5/16-18 ..................... 4

AK Pan Hd. Screw i/4-20 x 1 ........... 4

AL Washer I7/64 x 5/8 x 1/32 ....... 5

AM Lockwasher I/4 ................. 4

AN Hex Nut I/4-20 ................ 4

_AG @ AJ

_At _ AL

AO Table Clamp ...................... 2

AP Tee Nut ................................ 1

AQ Cup Point Set Screw 1/4-20 x 7/8 . 1

AR Washer 21/64 x 9/16 x !/t6 ...... 2

AS Lock Nut 5/16-18 ................. 2

AT Pan Hd. ScrewTyT

1/4-20 x I-3/4 ................... 1

AU "U" Clip 1/4-20 ................ t

AP AQ

AV Pan Hd. Screw #6-I0 x 1/2 ...... 2

AW Pan Hdo Screw Ty "T" 6-32 x 3/8 2

AX Pan Hd. Screw #10-t0 x t/2 ..... 4

AY Magnetic Catch ....................... 1

AZ Door Hinge ....................... 2

_AV (_AW _AX

BA Yoke Plug ........................ 1

BB Switch Key ........................ t

BC Battery ............................ t

BD Motor Support Cap .................. t

BE Pan Hd. Screw 10-32 x 1/2 .......... I

BF Battery Cover, ....................... 1

BG External Lockwasher #10 ........ t

BH Cover. ............................. 2

_BA _ BD 0 BG

BI Handwheel ........................ 1

BJ Arbor Wrenches .................. 2

BK Casters ............................. 2

BJ BK

The following loose parts are included with

model 1 I3.198251"

BL Leveling Feet ......................... 4

BM Hex Nuts 3/8-16 ................. 8

BN Truss Head Bolts 1/4-20 x I/2 ,.. 44

BO Lockwashers 1/4 ................. 44

BP Hex Nuts 1/4-20 .............. 44

BQ Phillips Head Screws t/4 x !/2 .... 6

©BM

BN BQ

BR Hex Hd. Screw 5/16-18 x 3/4 .... 4

BS Washer 11/32 x 7/8 x 1/16 ....... 4

B'I Lockwasher 5/16 ................ 4

BU Hex Nut 5/16-18 ................ 4

BV Pan Hd. Screw t/4-20 x 1 ....... 4

BW Washer 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32 ....... 5

BX Lockwasher 1/4 ................ 4

BY Hex Nut 1/4-20 ................ 4

BR BU

BZ Table Clamp ...................... 2

CA Tee Nut ....................... 1

CB Cup Point Set Screw 1/4-20 x 7/8 . 1

CC Washer' 21/64 x 9/16 x t/16 ...... 2

CD Lock Nut 5/16-18 ................. 2

CE Pan Hd. Screw Ty T

1/4-20 x !-3/4 ............... 1

CF "U" Clip I/4-20 ................ 1

CA CB C@

CD CE CF

CG Yoke Plug

CH Switch Key

Battery ....................... !

Motor' Support Cap ............. 1

Pan Hd. Screw 10-32 x 1/2 ...... 1

External Lockwasher #10 ....... 1

OCG _ CJ

O c,

CM Battery Cover _............................ 1

CN Handwheel ............................. 1

CO Arbor' Wrenches ......................... 2

CM (_DCN

Information

Both Models

1. If you are missing any part while putting

your saw together, do not continue assembly.

Contact your Sears Service Center or Retail

Store and get the missing part before continu-

ing assembly or trying to use the saw.

Complete parts lists are located at the end of

this manual, Use these lists to identify the

number of any missing part_

2. Sometimes small parts get lost in packag-

ing materials. Do not throw away any pack-

aging until your saw is put together. If you

are missing a part, check the packaging be-

fore contacting Sears°

3. Most parts of your radial arm saw will be

fastened together using truss head bolts, lock-

washers, and hex nuts of the sizes shown.

(Figure 13) When different sizes are needed,

the instructions will include a sketch to help

you locate the correct size,

Fig_ 13 -Truss Head Belt, Lockwashet; Hex Nut

4, As you assemble your radial arm saw,

some of the holes in the parts will line up and

others will not, This happens because some

parts are used in other equipment or for other

purposes_ Follow the instructions carefully,,

The figures will show which holes should line

up in each step,

Model 11t3.19821.1

Beginning the Cabinet

The following parts are used in the cabinet

assembly for model t13_ 198211:

A Right Side Panel .................. 1

B Left Side Panel .................... 1

C Lower Shelf ....................... 1

D Skirt ................................... 2

E Shelf Stiffener ..................... 1

F Corner Bracket ................... 2

G Spacer ....................... 2

H Door° ............................... 1

I Caster ............................. 2

t, Turn the shelJ upside down on the floor°

The wide edge should point down, and the

three narrow edges should point up.

(Figure 15)

0 o 0 0

000 0

Shelf

Corner /j

Brackets f

0 0 0 O0 _

Fig. 15

2. Put acorner bracket in the front corners of

the shelf (Figure 15)

,3. Put two truss head bolts through the shelf

and each corner bracket to hold the brackets

in place,

4o Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt

and tighten with a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket,

5. Put the she!jstiffener on the shelf and line

up the holes. (Figure 16)

F G

Fig, 14 -Cabinet Assembly -113.198211

Fig° 16

Truss Head Bolt

Lockwasher

Hex Nut

6. Put the casters (wheels) on the shelf and

shelfstiffenero Since the shelf is upside down,

the wheels will point up o Line up four holes

on each side. (Figme 16)

% Put truss head bolts through the holes on

each side. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on

each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch

wrench or socket°

8. Find the right and left side panels, Look

carefully to find the "R" and "L" stamped

in the metal near the center of the wide edge.

These stamps are the easiest way to tell the

right side panel from the left. (Figure 1'7)

Fi9.17

9. Turn the right side panel so that the J-

shaped slot is at the bottom and facing you.

10. Put a spacer inside the right side panel as

shown_ The side of the spacer with two round

holes should be opposite the J-shaped slot in

the side panel, and the side with one larger

hole should be on the bottom. (Figure 18)

Spacer

One Larger Hole

Fig.la

Right Side Panel

, -Shaped Slot

Plastic Cover

1t_ Put two truss head bolts through right

side panel and spacer, one on each side.

12. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each

bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

13. Put a plastic cover over the J-shaped slot

in the side panel. (Figure )

t4. Repeat steps 9-13 with the left side

panel.

15. Attach two hinges to the right side panel

above the spacer, using four truss head bolts,

lockwashers, and hex nuts. Tighten with a

7/16 inch wrench_ (Figure 19)

Spacer

Fig. 19

!6. Lay the shelf on the rear edge with the

bottom side toward you_ The angled end of

the lower support should point up.

17. Place the right side panel on the right

side of the shelf. The spacer should be on the

inside of the cabinet. (Figure 20)

Corner Brackets

Shelf

_" Right Side

Shelf Stiffener Panel

Fig_ 20

Rear Flange

18, Put truss head bolts through the three

holes along the bottom edge of the right side

panel Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each

bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket. (Figure 20)

Note: It is sometimes difficult to get bolts

through these three holes. You may need to

use a Phillips screwdriver to help shift the

parts into place.

19. Repeat steps 17-18 with the left side

panel and the left side of the shelf.

20. Turn the cabinet right side up. Attach the

skirts to the top of the side panels, with one

on the front of the cabinet and the other on

the back. (Figure 21)

Skirt

Side Panel

21, Use eight truss head bolts, lockwashers,

and hex nuts to hold the skirts in place. Hand-

tighten. (Figure 21)

22, Put a truss head bolt through the hole at

the back, right corner of the shelf, This hole

goes through the shelf and the right side

panel. (Figure22)

Rear I Right Side Panel

Shelf

Front

Fig, 22

23. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt

and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

24° Repeat steps 22-23 on the left side of the

shelf,

25. Put a truss head bolt through the back of

the right spacer and front edge of the shelf.

(Figure 23)

Left Side

Panel

Fig. 21

Shelf

Skirt

.... 2

Side Panel

Fig. 23

Shelf

Spacer !

26 Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt

and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

27° Repeat steps 25-26 with the left spacer_

28_ Move the cabinet to the location where

you will use your saw.

29° Put a hex nut on each of the levelingfeeto

(Figure 24)

Fig° 24 -Hex Nut for Leveling Foot

30. Put the leveling feet through the holes in

the bottom of the side panels, at the four

corner's of the shelf

31. Put another hex nut on each of the

leveling feet and hand-tighten until they are

against the side panels_

WARNING: Saw blade can roll for-

ward toward you if the leveling feet are

not correctly adjusted. Workpiece or

saw can move unexpectedly if cabinet

rocks. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut

off from blade contact. Adjust leveling

feet before using your saw.

32, If the leveling feet raise the front of tile

saw slightly higher than the rear, and if the

cabinet does not rock, go to step 38, or

If the leveling feet do not raise the front of

the saw slightly higher than the rear, go to

step 33, or

If the cabinet rocks, go to step 33,

33. Loosen the bottom hex nut on the desired

leveling foot using a 9/16 inch wrench.

34. Loosen the top nut by hand_

35. Adjust the lower' nut with the 9/16 inch

wrench until the leveling foot is at the desired

height°

36. Tighten the top nut by hand,

37_ Repeat steps 33-36 for the other' three

leveling feet if necessary.

38. Tighten all four bottom nuts using a 9/16

inch wrench.

Attaching Door

Magnetic Catch

Magnetic Stop Plate

Fig, 25 -Parts for Door Assembly

Io Put a magnet& catch on the inside edge of'

the door. (Figure26)

2_ Fasten using two pan head screws. Tighten

with a Phillips screwdriver_ (Figure 26 & 27 )

Door

,,,-

Magnetic Catch

Fig, 26

Fig° 27 -Pan Head Screw

3. Attach the door to the hinges on the side

panel using four plastite screws, Tighten with

a Phillips screwdriver. (Figure 28)

Fig_ 28 - Plastite Screw

4, Attach a magnetic stop plate to the two

small holes on the side of the front support

using four pan head screws. Tighten with a

Phillips screwdriver. (Figures 29 & 30)

Front Support

tS{

LII

/Magnetic Stop Plate

_. Pan Head Screw

Fig. 29

Fig° 30 -Pan Head Screw

Building the Leg Set

The following parts are used in the Leg Set

Assembly.

A Legs .................................... 4

BUpper Stiffeners ....................... 4

C Lower Stiffeners ....................... 4

Fig31

i. Attach the four (4) legs to the four (4)

upper st!ffeners as shown, Three (3) truss head

bolts, washers, and nuts are required to fasten

each end of upper stiffener to a leg. Hand

tighten hex nuts. (Figure 33)

2. Attach the four (4) lower st!ffeners to the

legs. Two (2) truss head bolts, washers and

nuts are required to hold each end of a lower

st![fener in place° Hand tighten hex nuts°

3, Move the leg set to the location where you

will use your saw

4, Put a hex nut on each of the leveling feet.

(Figure 32)

Fig. 32 -Hex Nut for Leveling Foot

5. Put the leveling feet through the holes in

the bottom of the lego

6. Put another' hex nut on each of the leveling

feet and hand-tighten until they are against

the leg_

Upper Stiffener

Bolt

Leg

10. Adjust the lower nut with the 9/16 inch

wrench until the leveling foot is at the desired

height.

11. Tighten the top nut by hand.

12. Repeat steps 8-1 t for the other' three lev-

eling feet if necessary.

13. Tighten all four bottom nuts using a 9/16

inch wrench°

Lockwasher Hex Nuts

Hex Nut Lower Stiffener /_

Leveling Foot

F/go33

Attaching Handwheel

Both Models

1. Place the handwheel on the front of the

saw. The front of the saw has a D-shaft that

fits into a D-slot in the handwheeL

WARNING: Saw blade can roll for-

ward toward you if the leveling feet are

not correctly adjusted. Workpiece or

saw can move unexpectedly if cabinet

rocks. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut

off from blade contact. Adjust leveling

feet before using your saw.

2. Attach the handwheel using a screw and

extemat lockwasher. (Figures 34 &35 )

7. If the leveling feet raise the front of the

saw slightly higher than the rear, and if the

leg set does not rock, go to step 13, or

If the leveling feet do not raise the front of the

saw slightly higher than the rear, go to step 8,

Handwheel

if the leg set rocks, go to step 8.

8. Loosen the bottom hex nut on the desired

leveling foot using a 9/16 inch wrench.

9. Loosen the top nut by hand.

Fig. 34

Fig. 35 -Screw and Extemal Lockwashet

Mounting the Motor

Both Models

_WARNING: Plugging the saw in dur-

ing assembly can result in electrical

shock or your fingers, hand, or arm be-

ing cut off from blade contact. Do not

plug in the saw at any time during as-

sembly. The saw should only be

plugged in when it is to be used.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw and remove

the guard from the motor.

2. Use the arbor wrenches to remove the

blade from the saw. The arbor shaft has left-

handed threads, so you will have to turn the

nut clockwise to loosen.

8o Slide the bevel encoder to the top center

position so it will fit into the notch on the

motor support bracket. (Figure 36)

9. Slide the motor onto the motorpivot sup-

port_ Make sure the motor is firmly in place.

10. Put the flat washer and locknut back in

place and tighten using a 3/4 inch socket

wrench° Move the bevel lock back and forth

as you tighten the locknut. Do not over-

tighten°

11. Push the bevel lock to the left as far as it

will go. (Figure 37)

3. Lock the rip lock.

4. Raise the radial arm about 2 inches and

remove the styrofoam packing blocks.

5. Clean the small pieces of styrofoam off

the saw.

6. Place the motor on the center channel of

the saw and remove the three table boards

and fence.

7. Remove the lock nut and flat washer from

the motorpivot support. (Figure 36)

Bevel Encoder

Motor Pivot

Support _

Motor

Fig, 37

12. If there is a 1/16 inch gap or less between

the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke

(and they are not touching), go to step 14, or

If the bevel lock touches the left side of the

yoke, unlock the bevel lock and tighten the

locknut on the motor pivot support. Then go

to step 10 and repeat, or

If there is more than t/16 inch gap between

the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke,

unlock the bevel lock and loosen the locknut

on the motor pivot support. Then go to step

10 and repeal

Fig. 36 17

13o Repeat steps 10-11 until the bevel lock

wilt not touch the left side of the ,yoke, and

the gap is not more than 1/16 inch_

14. Lock the bevel lock.

15. Snap the yokeplug into place. The yoke

plug is in the loose parts bag

Mounting the Saw

Both Models

1 Hold the saw by the front edge and the

back of the column support, and lift it onto

the cabinet leg seL Make sure that four holes

in the bottom of the saw line up with four

holes in the top of the cabinet/leg seL

2. Fasten the saw to the cabinet/leg set with

four truss head bolts_ Put a lockwasher and

hex nut on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16

inch wrench or socket°

(Figuie 38)

Truss Head Bolt

Cabinet

Loci

Hex Nut

01°Foto[0

11Cabinet I/

Fig. 38

3. Check all the nuts holding the cabinet/leg

set together and tighten them using a 7/16

inch wrench or socket.

Attaching Trim Ledge and

Trim Caps

Both Models

1. Hold the trim ledge against the front of the

saw.

2.. Reach through the top of the saw and use

four screws to fasten the trim ledge in place.

Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver. (Figures

39&40)

Fig, 39

Fig_ 40 -Phillips Head Screws

3. Hold the right trim cap in place on the

front side of the saw (Figure 41)

Trim Cap

Fig,.41

4. Reach through the top of the saw and use

two screws to hold the trim cap in place,

Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver_

5_ Repeat steps 3-4 with the left trim cap.

,i,

Location and Function of Controls

I,II,l,ll,,

113 198211

Fig_42 -Radial Saw Controls

On/Off Switch

The on/off switch turns the power to the saw

on and off.

To turn the saw on, put the yellow key into

the red switch and then pull the switch to the

right. To turn the saw off, push the red switch

to the lefL Remove the yellow key from the

red switch whenever the saw is turned off,

and keep it out of the reach and sight of

children. (Figure 43)

Fig. 43 -On/Off Switch

WARNING: The saw can start ac-

cidentally or be used by children and

others when the yellow key is left in the

red switch. Always remove the yellow

key when the saw is off, and keep it out

of the reach and sight of children.

_, WARNING: The saw will start im-

mediately when the power comes back

on after a blackout if the red switch is

left on. Always turn the switch off and

remove the yellow key when the power

goes off for any reason.

Miter Lock

The miter lock is used to hold the radial arm

at various angles to the fence,

To unlock the miter lock, pull the lock to the

right, (Figure 44)

Bevel Lock

Fig,, 44 -Miter Lock -Unlocked

To lock the miter lock, push the lock to the

left. (Figure 45)

The bevel lock is used to hold the blade at

various angles to the table. To unlock the

bevel lock, move the lock to the right. Always

hold the motor when you unlock the bevel

lock. (Figure 46_

,_k CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing clown quickly. You can be cut

or injured by the arbor shaft or blade.

Hold the motor when you unlock the

bevel lock.

Fig° 46 -Bevel Lock -Unlocked

To lock the bevel lock, move the lock to the

left. (Figure 47)

Fig.,45 -Miter Lock -Locked

There are three pre-set miter angles at 45°,

0°, and -45°° You will feel the radial arm

snap into position at these miter angles. To

unlock the arm when it is in one of these posi-

tions, pull the miter lock all the way to the

right and move the arm as you hold the lock

in this position.

Fig. 47 -Bevel Lock -Locked

There are five pre-set bevel angles at -90°,

-45°, 0°, 45°, and 90°. To unlock the bevel

lock when the blade is at one of these angles,

move the bevel lock all the way to the right

and turn the motor while holding the lock in

this position.

Swivel Lock

The swivel lock is used to hold the blade in

the crosscut, in-rip, or out-rip positions, and

to position the blade for molding or edging.

To unlock the swivel lock, stand facing the

saw handle and pull the swivel lock toward

you. (Figure 48)

Fig 48 - Swivel Lock -Unlocked

To lock the swivel lock, stand facing the saw

handle and push the swivel lock away from

you. (Figure 49)

Fig° 49 -Swivel Lock -Locked

swivel lock when the motor is in one of these

positions, stand facing the saw handle, puI!

the swivel lock all the way toward you, and

turn the motor as you hold the lock in this

position.

Rip Lock

The rip lock is used to hoId the motor and

blade at a fixed position along the radial arm.

It is used during ripping to hold the blade a

desired distance from the fence while the

workpiece is fed through. It is used before

and after each crosscut to keep the blade

from moving forward on its own.

To unlock the tip lock, pull the handle toward

the front of the ann. (Figure 50)

Fig, 50 -Rip Lock -Unlocked

To lock the rip lock, push the handte toward

the rear of the arm. (Figure 5 I)

The crosscut, in-rip, and out-rip positions of

the blade are pre-set positions. To unlock the

Fig, 51 -Rip Lock -Locked

Handwheel

The handwheel controls the height of the

radial arm.

To raise the radial arm, turn the handwheel

clocle, vise. To lower the radial arm, turn the

handwheeI counterclockwise. (Figure 52)

Fig. 52 -Handwheel

One complete turn of the handwheel moves

the arm 1/16 inch.

The handle can be folded in by pushing the

red button while pushing the handle in.

All Controls

Always lock the miter, swivel and bevel locks

before making a cut on your radial arm saw.

When ripping, the rip lock must also be lock-

ed. When crosscutting, the rip Iock should be

locked before and after each cut, when the

saw is in the rearmost position.

The blade of your radial arm saw must be

aligned properly for two reasons: to make

cuts accurate, and to prevent binding of the

blade and workpiece which can cause jams or

thrown workpieces.

These adjustments must be done in order,

before using your saw for the first time. If

they are not done in order' the saw will not

cut accurately. If you miss an adjustment, you

must go back to the adjustment you missed

and repeat all steps from that point on.

These adjustments are like fine tuning a

piece of equipment. Often a series of steps

must be repeated more than once in order to

get the adjustment just right.

gk _

_WARNINL_: Plugging the saw in

during alignment can result in electrical

shock or your fingers, hand, or arm

being cut off from blade contact. Do not

plug in the saw at any time during align-

ment. The saw should only be plugged

in when it is to be used.

Make sure that the blade and blade guard are

removed from the arbor shaft before begin-

ning to align your saw. Do not install the

blade or blade guard until you are instructed

to do so.

Adjusting Elevation

The goal of this adjustment is to make up-

ward and downward movement of the radial

arm smooth and firm. If the column that sup-

ports the arm is too tight it will be difficult to

move the arm up and down and to get ac-

curate depth of cut. If the column is loose the

blade may "walk" on the workpiece and stall

the motor, or cause a heel in bevel and com-

pound cuts.

1. Loosen the four screws in the front of the

cohmm support. (Figure 53)

Four Socket

Head Screws

Fig,, 53

2. Raise and lower the radial arm by turning

the handwheeI a few turns in each direction.

It should take about the same amount of ef-

fort to lower the arm as to raise it.

3oIf movement seems smooth and the

column does not rock back and forth, go to

the next section, or

If movement seems difficult, loosen the four

bolts in the back of the cohmm slightly

(Figure 54) and go back to step 2, or

If column rocks back and forth, tighten the

four bolts in the back of the cohtmn slightly

(Figure 54) and go back to step 2.

ooot

Leveling Table Supports

1o Raise the radial arm until the bottom of

the motor is about 2-1/2 inches above the

saw,

2. Locate four hex head bolts and put a flat

washer on each_

3, Attach a table support to each side of the

saw using the four hex head bolts and flat

washers, (Figure 55 & 55A) Put the bolts

through the center of the enlarged holes in the

table supports so that the supports may slide

up or down as needed.

Table Support

Lockwasher

Nut Table Support

Screws

Here

_" Flat Washer

Hex Head Bolt

Fig. 55

(0 (L _ Front

Mount Support

Using These Holes

Fig 55A -Hex Head Bolt, Washer; Lockwasher

and Hex Nut

4. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt

and hand-tighten.

5_ Unlock the bevel lock to release the motor.

Hold onto the motor as you do this.

A'k CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the arbor shaft hits you. Hold

the motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

6. Turn the motor' until the arbor shaft is

pointing straight down toward the saw°

(Figure 56)

Arbor Wrench

Rear Bolt

Fig. 56

74 Lock the bevel lock to hold the motor in

this position,

8_ Unlock the miter lock and move the arm to

the left as far as it will go (about 50 ° miter).

9. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

until the arbor shaft is over the rear bolt on

the left table support. (Figure 56)

I0. Mark the point on the table support un-

der the center of the arbor shaft,,

11. Place the handle end of the arbor wrench

over this point and lower the arm until the

arbor shaft is just touching the wrench. The

wrench should slide back and forth with slight

contact_ (Figure 56)

12_ Tighten the bolt under this point using a

1/2 inch wrench.

t3, Move the arm and motor until the arbor

shaft is over the front bolt on the left table

support° Do not change the elevation of the

arm as you move from point to poinL

(Figure 57)

Front Bolt

Table Support

Rear Bolt

Fig. 57

14. Mark the point on the table support un-

der the center of the arbor shaft° (Figure 58)

15_ Place the handle end of the arbor wrench

over this point. (Figure 58)

16. Slide the front end of the table support

up or down until the handle end of the arbor

wrench just fits between this point and the

arbor shaft. The wrench should slide back

and forth with slight contacL

17_ Tighten the bolt under this point using a

1/2 inch wrench,

If the arbor wrench will not fit between the

arbor shaft and the table support at any point,

repeat steps 8-21 until the table supports are

level, or

If there is a gap between the arbor wrench

and the arbor shaft at any point, repeat steps

8-2t until the table supports are level.

Rear Bolt

t I

r Wrench

Front Bolt

Table Support

Fig_ 58

184 Repeat steps 13-17 with the arbor shaft

over the front and rear bolts on the right table

support. Slide the rear end of the table sup-

port up or down when the arbor shaft is over

the rear bolt (see step 16).

19. Move the arbor shaft over all four points

again.

20. Place the handle end of the arbor wrench

over each point and make sure that the arbor

shaft just touches the wrench. The wrench

should slide back and forth with slight con-

tact.

21. If the arbor shaft just touches the arbor

wrench at each point, go to the next section,

Mounting the Front Table

1_ Make sure that thefi"ont table is upside

down.

2_ Place a tee nut over' the leveling hole and

hammer it into place_ (Figures 59 & 59A)

Tee Nut ---..,-_, ._,)

Fig..59

rNv

Fig, 59A -Nut Tee

3.. Slide a U-clip onto the center channel of

the saw as shown, (Figures 60 & 60A)

U-Clip

Fig. 60

Fig. 60A- U Clip

4. Place the fi'ont table on the saw so that the

mounting holes in the table line up with holes

in the table supports and center' channel of

saw. (Figure 61)

Bolt

Fig,, 61

5. Start the cup point set screw through the

leveling hole. Do not tighten. (Figures 61 &

62)

Fig_ 62 -Cup Point Set Screw

& Put a washer in each of the mounting

hotes_ (Figures 61 & 63)

Fig,, 63 -Washer for Mounting Holes

7,. Start a pan head machine screw through

the center mounting hole Do not tighten.

(Figures 61 & 64)

Fig° 64 -Pan Head Machine Screw

8. Install the pan head bolts through the

other four mounting holes, Put a tockwasher

and hex nut on each bolt and tighten using a

Phillips screwdriver_ (Figures 6] & 65)

Fig. 65- Pan Head Bolt

9. Lay the edge of the rear table across the

center of the front table, and check to see if

there is a gap between the two. (Figure 66)

13. If there is a gap larger' than 1/32 inch, go

back to step 11 and repeat, or

If there is a gap less than 1/32 inch, or no gap

at all, go to the next section.

Mounting TabLe Clamps

The following parts are used in mounting the

table clamps:

A Table Clamps .................... 2

B Washer ......................... 2

C Locknut ......................... 2

Fig° 66

10. If there is a gap larger than 1/32 inch, go

to step 1 t, or

If there is a gap less than 1/32 inch, or no gap

at all, tighten the leveling screw and the cen-

ter mounting screw, Do not overtighten. Then

go to step 12o

1I. If the gap is at the center of the table,

tighten the leveling screw until the gap is

gone. Then tighten the center mounting screw

and go to step 12, or

If the gap is at the sides of the table, tighten

the center mounting screw until the gap is

gone. Then tighten the leveling screw and go

to step t2.

12. Lay the edge of the rear table across the

center' of the front table and check again for

gaps.

®°

Fig,67

1. Place the table clamp in the hole provided

at the rear of the right table support. (Figure

68)

2. Put a washer and locknut on the table

clamp and tighten using a 1/2 inch wrench or

socket° (Figure 68)

Table_e Clamp

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the left table

clamp° (Figure 68)

Squaring Crosscut Travel

The blade must travel perpendicular to the

fence along the radial arm in order for cross-

cuts to be accurate. If the radial arm is not

perpendicular to the fence, there will be a

slight miter angle in all crosscuts.

_WARNING: Plugging in the saw dur-

ing alignment can result in your fingers,

hands, or arm being cut off from blade

contact. Do not plug in the saw at any

time during alignment. The saw should

only be plugged in when it is to be used.

1. Place the radial arm in the 0° miter posi-

tion and lock the miter lock.

2_ Place the blade on the ar'bor shaft with a

blade collar on each side. Make sure that the

directional arrow is on the outside of the

blade, and the teeth are pointing down at the

front side of the blade. (Figure 69)

CAUTION: Overtightening the arbor

nuts may cause the blade collars to

warp and the blade to wobble while cut-

ting. Use the arbor wrenches to tighten

the arbor nuts but do not overtighten.

4,, Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

until the blade is over the fi'ont table.

5o Lock the r'ip lock, miter lock and bevel

lock_

6_ Lower the radial arm until the blade is

just above the fi"ont table.

7.. Lay a f?aming square on thefiont table

with the long edge along the back of the table

and the short edge alongside the blade.

(Figure 70)

8. Move the framing square toward the blade

until a tooth of the blade just touches the edge

of the square. (Figure 70)

9. Mark this tooth with a pencil.

10b Unlock the rip lock and move tile motor

back and forth along the radial arm. Do not

move the framing square.

t 1_. If the marked tooth just touches the

square at all points, no change is needed. Go

to step 15, or

If the marked tooth moves away fl'om the

square or tries to "walk" on top of it, go to

step 12 (Figure 70)

Fig. 69

3., Place the arbor nut on the arbor shaft and

use the arbor wrenches to tighten. The arbor'

shaft has left-handed threads, so you will

have to turn the nut counterclockwise to

tightem Do not overtighten.

If the blade tried to "walk" on the square,

tighten the top left screw to move the aHn to

the right+ Then tighten the top right screw to

meet the column_ Go to step 14

t4, Move the motor back and forth along the

radial arm. Repeat step 13 until the marked

tooth just touches the square at all points _

Then go to step 15+

15+ Tighten the bottom screws in the front of

the column support, switching from right to

left several times so that you do not force the

radial arm out of line. Do not overtighten or

it will be difficult to raise and lower the

r'adial arm.

Fi9o70

12. Loosen the four screws in the front of the

column support slightly, if you have not al-

ready done so in the Adjusting Elevation sec-

tion. (Figure 71)

Four Socket

Head Screws

Fig,, 7"1

13, Use the top two screws to move the

radial arm into line:

It' the blade moved away from the square,

tighten the top right screw to move the arm to

the left+ Then tighten the top left screw to

meet the column. Go to step 14, or

16,. Raise and lower' the radial arm If this is

difficult, loosen the four screws in the front

of the cohmm support slightly and try again+

Loosen all of these screws the same amount

so that you do not force the r'adial arm out of

line

17. Repeat step 16 until movement of the

radiat arm is smooth but firm Then go to

step t 8

18o Lay a framing square on the front table

with the long edge along the back of the table

and the short edge alongside the blade, as

bef0re_

19_ Move the framing square toward the

blade, and rotate the blade with your hand,

until the marked tooth of the blade .just

touches the edge of the square.

20 Move the motor back and forth along the

radial arm. Do not move the square,

21+ If the marked tooth .just touches the edge

of the square at all points, go to step 22, or

If the mmked tooth moves away from the

edge of the square or+tries to "walk" on top

of it, go back to step 13 and repeat.

22° Lock the rip lock, put the spacer, fence

and rear table back in place, lock the table

clamp, and go to the next section.

If there is a gap between the square and the

the blade after any rotation (Figure 73), go

to step 6.

Squaring Blade to Table

for Crosscutting

These steps are necessary so that your blade

will be perpendicular to the table and cuts

will be accurate_ If this is not done correctly,

your cuts will have a slight bevel angle.

1. Put the radial arm in the 0 ° miter position

with the blade over the front table_

2o Lock the table clamps and rip lock.

3. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade. Make sure that the square is against

the blade surface and not the set of a tooth.

(Figure 72)

Right

t i Square j_

Table

Wrong _ j_____ Wrong I-]"

Square[ _ Square [_

Table Table

Fig. 73

6. Unlock the bevel lock, but do not move the

motor.

7. Loosen the four screws behind the yoke

using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench. (Figme 74)

Framing

Square

FI#. 72

4. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure

73) Go to the next section, or

1__Setscrews

f- ® /I

Fig. 74

8. Hold the square in place and move the

motor slowly until the square is flush with the

blade.

9. Hold the motor tightly and lock the bevel

lock. Do not let the motor move out of place.

10. Check the square to make sure that it is

still flush with the blade.

11. Tighten the four screws behind the yoke.

12. Raise the radial arm until the blade is

1-1/2 inches above the table.

13. Unlock the bevel lock and move the motor

to the 45° bevel position. (Figure 75)

,_ CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

17. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

l& If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation, go back to step 6 and

repeat.

Squaring Blade to Fence

These steps are done so that your blade will

be perpendicular to the fence. This will help

reduce the risk of kickback when ripping, and

splintering of the workpiece and burning of

the kerf when ripping and crosscutting.

Fig, 75

14. Move the motor back to the 0° bevel posi-

tion and lock the bevel lock.

15. Lower the radial arm until the blade is

just above the table.

16. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade as before. Make sure the square is

against the surface of the blade and not the

set of a tooth.

Fig. 76 -Squaring Blade to Fence

1. Put the radial am_ in the 0° miter position

with the blade just in front of the fence.

(Figure 76)

2. Lock the rip lock.

3. Place the framing square with the long

edge against both the fence and the table, and

the short edge against the blade just above

the arbor shaft. Make sure that the edge of

the square is on the blade and not on the set

of a tooth. (Figure 76)

4. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure

77) Go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation, go to step 6.

(Figure 77)

Fence

Square

Right

F i

Fence

Square

Wrong

Fence

]

Square l_

Wrong

Fig. 77

6. Unlock the swivel lock.

7. Loosen the four screws under the yoke

using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench and pliers if

necessary. (Figure 78)

_WARNING: The hex-L wrench may

break when used with pliers to loosen

screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in

the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-

gles when using a hex-L wrench with

pliers.

Fig. 78

8. Hold the square in place and turn the

motor until the square is flush with the blade.

9oHold the saw handle tightly and lock the

swivel lock.

10. Check the square to make sure it is still

flush with the blade.

11. Tighten the four screws under the yoke

using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench.

12. Place the flaming square with the long

edge against both the fence and the table, and

the short edge against the blade just above

the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the

edge of the square is on the blade and not on

the set of a tooth.

13. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

14. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping

1. Unlock the swive! lock and turn the motor

to the out-rip position with the motor be-

_'een the blade and fence, (Figure 79)

Fig. 79- Out-rip Position

2. Lock swivel lock and rip lock.

3. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade alongside the arbor shaft. Make sure

the square is against the surface of the blade

and not on the set of a tooth. (Figure 80)

4. Turn the blade With your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation (Figure 8 I) go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 81), go to

step 6.

[ Right

Lr [3,,,,,

Table Fence

Wrong _ Wrong

,I " fl_'),, r I

Table Fence Table

_Fence

Fig, 81

6. Loosen the hex nut on the rear' catTiage

bearing. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the

bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the nut.

(Figure 82)

Fig. 82

7. Hold the square in place and use the 9/16

inch wrench to turn the bolt until the square

is flush with the blade.

8. Hold the bolt firmly, and retighten the hex

nut using a 1/2 inch wrench.

9. Turn the blade several times and check to

see if the square is still flush with the blade.

10. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

11. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor"

as far back as it will go.

12. Pinch the ]}vnt cargage bearbzg with your

fingers as tightly as possible while you pull

the motor forward with the other hand. Try to

keep the carriage beating flom turning.

(Figure 83)

Fig., 83

13. Move the motor as far forward as it will

go.

14. Pinch the rear carriage bearing with your

fingers as tightly as possible while you pull

the motor toward the rear with the other'

hand. Try to keep the carriage bearing from

turning.

15. If you can keep either of the carriage bear-

ings fiom turning while the motor moves

along the radial arm, go to step 16, or

If you cannot keep the carriage bearings fiom

turning while the motor moves, go to step 22.

16. Wipe the V-shaped groove in each car-

gage bearing, and the track they ride on, with

a cloth to remove sawdust and other debris.

Oil if necessary.

17. Loosen the hex nut on the carriage bear-

ing that was loose. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to

hold the bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen

the nut.

i8. Turn the bolt using a 9/16 inch wrench

until the looseness is gone.

19. Hold the bolt firmly with the 9/t6 inch

wrench and tighten the hex nut using a 1/2

inch wrench. Do not overtighten.

20. Adjust the other carriage bearing by the

same amount so that the blade will still be

square with the table.

21. Repeat steps 1i-t5 to make sure that the

carriage bearings are not still loose.

22, Place the long edge of the fraIning square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade just above the arbor shaft, as before.

Make sure the square is against the surface of

the blade and not on the set of a tooth.

23. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade,

24. If the square is flush with the blade, go to

the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat°

Making Blade Parallel to

Table

These steps are done to help prevent the

workpiece from being thrown or damaged

when the saw is used for edging.

_ TI

Fig. 84

1, Put the radial ann in the 0° miter position.

2. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2

inches above the front table.

3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor

so that the blade is parallel to the table°

(Figure 84)

_k CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

4. Lock the bevel lock, gp lock and swivel lock,

5. Place the corner of the framing square

against the fence so that the long edge is on

the table under the blade and the short edge

is sticking up in the air. Make sure that the

long edge is perpendicular to the fence.

(Figure 85)

Fig,85

&Lower the radial arm until the blade just

rests on the edge of the framing square,

Make sure that the square is on the blade

and not on the set of a tooth.

7, Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade°

8. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation (Figure 86) go to step 18, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 86) go to

step 9o

Right

Square _ _--_-_ Motor

Fen_I [% SLI_qj

Table

Wrong

Square Square

Fenc_ _!_

Table

Wrong

Motor

Table

Fig, 86

9. Unlock the bevel lock.

10. Loosen the two screws on the back of the

motorsuppo,¢ using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench

and pliers if necessary. (Figure 87)

WARNING: The hex-L wrench may

break when used with pliers to loosen

screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in

the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-

gles when using a hex-L wrench with

pliers.

L =--- _5

Mo or Support

---'-_'" _ 2 Capscrews

16. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

17. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to step 18, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 9 and repeat.

18. Snap the motor support cap into the back

of the motor' support_ The cap is in the loose

parts bag. (Figure 88)

Saw

Handle

Motor Support

Fig. 87

11. Hold the square in place, and lift or lower

the bottom side of the motor support until the

square is flush with the blade.

12. Hold the motor firmly and lock the beve!

lock.

13. Check the square to make sure that it is

still flush with the blade.

14. Tighten the two screws on the back of the

motor support.

15. Place the corner of the framing square

against the fence so that the long edge is on

the table under the blade and the short edge

is sticking up in the air, as before. Make sure

that the long edge is perpendicular to the

fence.

Motor Support Cap

F_ 88

Installing Guard /Setting

Spreader

The blade guard and the spreader are very

important safety features of your saw. The

guard covers a large part of the blade and

reduces the risk of amputation. The spreader

rides in the kerr of the cut wood during rip-

ping, and helps keep the two sides from

pinching the blade and causing a kickback.

NI_WARNJN(3: Fingers, hand, or arm

can be cut off from blade contact if the

blade guard is not used properly. Al-

ways put the blade guard on your saw

and adjust it correctly.

WARNING: Kickback can occur if

the spreader is not in line with the

blade. You can be injured or killed. Al-

ways adjust the spreader and make sure

that it is directly in line with the blade.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw unti! it no

longer touches the metalplate. (Figure 89)

3. Make sure that the lower edge of the guard

is parallel to the table. (Figure 91)

4. Tighten the guard clamp screw.

5. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor

to the in-rip position, with the blade between

the motor and the fence. (Figure 91)

Guard Clamp Screw

Fig° 89

Metal Plate

2. Place the guard over the blade° You will

feel the guard fall into place when the ridge

on the inside of the guard slides into the slot

on the motor. (Figure 90)

Guard I'_"_ _._£t_

Fig, 90

Fig. 91 -In-rip Position

6. Lock the swivel lock.

7, I_z)wer the radial ann until the blade is just

above the table.

8. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

back until the blade touches thefence,

9. Lock the rip lock.

10. Loosen the wing screw that holds the

spreader in placer

11. Lower the spreader and antildckback

pawls until the spreader is against the fence,

and thepawts on one side of the spreader are

on top of the fence. (Figure 92)

Antikickback Pawls

F/go92

Fence

Table

12. If the spreader and blade both rest against

the fence, ilo adjustment is needed. (Figure

93-A) Go to step 17, or

If the spreader is in front of the fence but not

touching it (Figure 93-B), go to step 13, or

If the spreader hits the top of the fence

{Figure 93-C), go to step 13.

A - Right

13. Loosen both nuts Oll the spreader using a

1/2 inch wrench.

14. Slide the spreader with your hand until it

is against the fence directly behind the blade.

15. Tighten both nuts using a 1/2 inch

wrench° Do not move the spreader as you

tighten these nuts.

16. Check the blade and spreader again to

make sure that they are both against the

fence. If not, go back to step 13 and repeat°

17. Once the blade and spreader are in line,

raise the &reader up to the guard and tighten

the wing screw to hold it in place.

t8. Unlock the rip lock.

19, Pull the motor" forward so that the blade is

away from the fence and lock the rip lock.

20. Unlock the swivel loclc

21. Turn the motor to the crosscut positon

with the blade and arm perpendicular to the

fence.

22. Lock the swivel locko

-Spreader

TaNe Saw Blade

B - Wrong

Pawl

Fence_

Table _

i -Spreader

Saw Blade

Fig.99 -A&c

C-Wrong

Fence

Table

-Spreader

Saw Blade

Digital Display

CRAF NAN

ELECTRONIC MEASUREMENT

TO LOCK ItEMOVE "€I[LLOW :_E'¢

]

Fig, 94 -Digital Display

Your radial arm saw has a digita! display

which tells you the position of the blade and

arm at the touch of a button. This display

helps you position the blade so that your cuts

will be accurate.

The following buttons control the digital dis-

play:

ON/OFF : This button turns the display on

and off. The display runs on battery power,

and shuts itself off when no changes in blade

or arm position have been made for three

minutes. The system continues to track the

location of the blade and arm when the dis-

play is turned off, and the current position

may be displayed at any time°

REF SET: This button is used to set the "0"

reference points for the digital display.

BEVEL : This button displays the bevel

angle. The "0" display is usually set with the

blade perpendicular to the table. A positive

display shows the angle the blade has been

turned counterclockavise_ A negative display

shows the angle the blade has been turned

clockwise.

ELEV: This button displays the height of the

blade. The "0" display is usually set whh the

blade just touching the table. A positive dis-

play shows the distance the blade has been

raised above "0". A negative display shows the

distance the blade has been lowered below

tl01_"

MITER: This button displays the miter angle.

The "0" display is usually set with the arm per-

pendicular to the fence. A positive display

shows the angle the arm has been moved to

the right. A negative display shows the angle

the arm has been moved to the left.

RIP: This button displays the distance from

the fence to the blade in the in-rip and out-

rip positions. The "0" display for in-rip is

usually set with the blade .just touching the

fence. The "10.00" display for out-rip is usual-

ly set with the blade ten inches from the

fence.

The "0" reference points you set will be

stored in the memory at all times, whether

the display is turned on or off.. If an error oc-

cur's you will see:

l[ _w t" "

FK SF cc _c

12.L ff or _2 C K.W2

on the display. If this happens, you will need

to reset the "0" reference point for the func-

tion displaying the error.

If the battery is very weak or dead the display

wil! become faded and hard to read. If this

happens, you will need to replace the battery

and reset the "0' reference points for' all func-

tions.

Installing the Battery

!. Slide the battery into the opening behind

the digital display with the angled corner on

top. (Figure 95)

Battery

5. If there is still no display, contact your

nearest Sears store, or

If the display says:

ELE =

go to step 6.

6. Snap the battery cover into place.

7. Push the ON/OFF button to turn off the dis-

play.

Replacing the Battery

1. Use a screwdriver to pry the battery cover

off.

Fig° 95 -Installing the Battery

2. Push the battery all the way into this space

and slightly downward. It will snap into place,

and be held there by a tab.

3. If the display says:

o o _ ,_D

ELE =

a second or two after the battery is put in

place, go to step 6, or

If the display does not show anything, go to

step 4.

4. Remove the battery_ Put it back in and

check the display again, or

Remove the battery. Wipe off the battery con-

tacts. Put the battery back in and check the

display again, or

Remove the battery. Replace it with a new

one. Check the display again.

2. Push in and slightly upward on the battery,

then pul! out. The battery is held in place by a

tab that is released when you push in.

3. Replace the battery with a 6V, alkaline bat-

tery by following the Installing the Battery

section.

Aligning Encoders

Miter Eneoder

t. Push the ON/OFF button to turn the dis-

play on.

2. Put the saw in the crosscut position with

the radial arm perpendicular to the fence.

3. Lock the miter lock-

4o Push the MITER button.

5. Push the REF SETbutton. The display will

say:

°, .01

6. Unlock the miter lock.

7. Move the arm to the right until it snaps

into the 45 ° position.

8. Lock the miter lock.

9. The display should say:

JMIT _ _=- p

.J.u

10. Unlock the miter lock.

11. Move the a_rn to the left until it snaps

into the -45°position.

12. Lock the miter lock.

13. The display should say:

1 L -ni

MiT L _

" g.U

14. If the display is correct at a!l three points,

go to the next section, or

If the display is not correct at one or more of

these points, go to step 15.

15. Unscrew the two mounting screws on the

back of the arm and take off the rear ann

cover.

16. Untock the miter lock.

17. Move the ami to the right until it snaps

into the 45 ° miter position.

18. Lock the miter lock.

19. Loosen the mounting screws on the miter

encoder until the encoder will slide to the

right and left. (Figure 96)

Fig_ 96 -Screws for Miter Encoder

20. Slide the encoder slightly until the digital

display says:

[MIT

You may need to tap on the encoder to move

it, but do not force it or hit it hard.

21. Tighten the mounting screws on the en-

coder.

22. Repeat steps 2-13 to make sure you did

not move the encoder when tightening the

mounting screws.

23. If the display is still not correct repeat

steps 16 _ 22 until the miter encoder is in the

right position, or

If the display is correct, put the rear ann

cover back on the radial arm, Go to the next

section.

Bevel Eneoder

1. Push the ON/OFF button to turn the dis-

play on.

2. Put the saw in the crosscut position with

the radial ann perpendicular to the fence and

the blade perpendicular to the table.

3, Lock the bevel lock.

4. Push the BEVEL button,

5. Push the REF SETbutton. The display will

say:

D =Q

6. Unlock the bevel lock.

7. Turn the motor to the 45 °bevel position°

CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

14. If the display is correct at all three points,

go to the next section, or

If the display is not correct at one or more of

these points, go to step 15.

15. Unlock the bevel lock.

16_Move the motor to the 45° bevel position.

17. Lock the bevel lock.

18. Loosen the two aligning screws on the

bevel encoder until the encoder will slide from

right to left. (Figure 97)

Aligning Screws

Motor Support Bevel

Encoder

\Yoke

Casting

8. Lock the bevel lock.

9. The display should say:

.LU

10. Unlock the bevel locko

11. Move the motor to the 90 ° bevel position.

12. Lock the bevel lock.

13. The display should say:

qLdJ

Fig., 97 -Screws for Bevel Encoder

19. Slide the encoder slightly unti! the display

says:

BEV I

You may need to tap on the encoder to move

it, but do not force it or hit it hard.

20. Tighten the two aligning screws on the en-

coder.

21. Repeat steps 2 - 13 to make sure you did

not move the encoder when tightening the

two screws.

22. If the display is still not correct, repeat

steps 15 - 21 until the bevel encoder is in the

right position, or

8. Push the ELEVbutton.

9. Push the REF SET button.

If the display is correct, go to the next section.

Setting Zero References

Bevel, Miter and Elevation

The "0" reference points for miter, bevel, and

elevation are usually set with the:

oSaw in the crosscut position with the

radial arm perpendicular to the fence

(0 ° miter).

10. The display will say:

t,,

[ '-"-'I

i i ,m ,,i , ,,,,,,,, ,,, =

In-rip Reference

The "0" reference point for in-rip is usually

set with the blade ,just touching the front of

the fencer

1. Unlock the swivel lock.

,,Blade perpendicular to the fence and

front table (0 °bevel).

,,Blade in front of the fence just touching

the front table (0 inches elevation).

2. Turn the motor to the in-rip position with

the blade between the motor and the fence.

3. Lock the swivel lock.

4. Unlock the table locks and put the fence

between the fivnt table and the spacer.

You may set the "0" reference points in this

position, or any other position you choose.

1. Put the blade in the position you have

chosen to be the zero reference point.

2. Push the MITER button°

3. Push the REF SET button.

4. The display will say:

it u ,,,,,,, ,,

M,, .U ]

5. Push the BEVEL, button.

6, Push the REF SETbutton.

7. The display will say:

1L- l

5. Lock the table locks.

6. Unlock the rip lock.

7. Move the motor back until the blade is just

touching the front of the fence.

8. Lock the rip lock.

9. Push the RIP button.

10. If the display shows the RIP function, go

to step 1!, or

If the display shows the O-RIP function, push

the RIP button again. Then go to step 11.

11. Push the REF SET button.

12. If the display says:

.,P 3-! U

4,3

go to the next section, or

If the display says:

push the REF SET button again, Then go to

the next section°

Out-rip Reference

The "0" reference point for out-rip is usually

set with the blade ten inches from the fence°

1. Unlock the swivel lock,

2, Turn the motor to the out-rip position with

the motor' between the blade and the fence.

3. Lock the swivel lock.

4. Unlock the table locks and move the fence

behind the spacer and rear table (Figure 1!1)

5. I_x3ck the table locks.

8. Lock the rip lock.

9. Push the RIP button.

10. If the display shows the O-RIP flanction,

go to step 11, or

If the display shows the RIP function, push

the RIP button again. Then go to step 11.

11. Push the REF SET button.

I2. If the display says:°°1

o..tP °U U

!3 Push the REF StiTbutton again_

lhe display will say:

O-RIP

tFe Ft 1

LU.U U

6. Unlock the rip lock.

7. Move the motor until the blade is 10 inches

in front of the fence. Use a framing square,

ruler or tape measure to measure this dis-

tance. (Figure 98)

Blade

Fence

Fig., 98 -Out-Rip Reference

E ectrical Connections

_.'n i..... lU i

Motor Specifications

The AC motor used in this saw is acapacitor-

start, non-reversible type having the following

specifications:

Rated H,,P ................................ 1.5

Maximum Developed HP .................. 2.5

Voltage ................................. ! 20

Amperes ................................ 11_5

Hertz (cycles) ....................... 60

Phase ................................. Single

RPM ................................... 3450

Rotation of Arbor Shaft ........ C!ockwise

Power Supply

WARNING: Your saw is wired at

the factory for 120V operation. Connect

to a 120V, 15-AMP, branch circuit and

use a 15-AMP, time delay fuse or circuit

breaker. Failure to connect in this way

can result in injury from shock or fire.

WARNING: To avoid shock or fire, if

power cord is worn, cut_ or damaged in

any way have it replaced immediately.

Your unit is wired for 120V it has a plug

that looks like the one shown below. (F_gure

99)

3-Prong Plug

Grounding Prong

Property

Grounded

Outlet

Fig 99 -Plug for Less Than 150V

Your saw must be properly grounded. Not aI1

outlets are properly grounded. If you are not

sure that your outlet is properly grounded,

have it checked by a qualified electrician.

,WARNING: If not properly

grounded this power tool can cause

electrical shock, particularly when used

in damp locations.

AtLWARNING: If an electrical shock oc-

curs, your reaction to the shock may

bring your hands into contact with the

blade.

]his power tool is equipped with a 3-

conductor cord and grounding type plug listed

by Underwriters' Laboratories. The ground

conductor' has a green .jacket and is attached

to the tooI housing at one end and to the

ground prong in the attachment pIug at the

other' end

This plug requires a mating 3-conductor

grounded type outlet as shown above. If you

have an outlet that is of the two prong type, it

is recommended that you have a qualified

electrician replace the it with a properly

grounded three prong outlet.

_, WARNING: To maintain proper

tool grounding, whenever the outlet you

are planning to use for this power tool

is of the two prong type do not remove

or alter the grounding prong in any man-

ner.

An adapter is available for connecting plug to

2-prong receptacles. The green grounding

lead extending from the adapter must be con-

nected to a permanent ground such as to a

properly grotinded outlet box. (Figure 100)

Grounding Lug

/_ Make Sure This ts

3-Prone Plum _,i), ).Z_L4J.-- Connected To A

_-_ _!_J{ Known Ground

[Receptacle

Adapter

Extension Cords

The use of any extension cord will cause

some loss of power. Use the following table

to determine the minimum wire size

(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3- wire ex-

tension cords which have 3-prong grounding

type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which ac-

cept the tool's plug.

Length of

Conductor

Wire sizes Required

(American Wire Gage Noo)

120V Lines

0 - 25 feet Noel4

26 - 50 feet No.12

51 - 100 feet No. 8

For circuits that are farther away fl'om electri-

cal circuit box, the wire size must be in-

creased proportionately in order to deliver

ample voltage to the saw motor.

Fig. 100 -Adapter for 2-Prong Receptacles

WARNING: The adapter illustrated

is for use only if you already have a

properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.

Crosscutting

Crosscutting is used to cut a workpiece to

length. The workpiece is held against the

fence. The saw' blade is pulled through the

workpiece. Cuts are usually made across the

grain of the workpiece.

Types of Crosscuts

The basic types of crosscuts are shown below.

Notice the hand and body position in each.

Fig. 103 Bevel Crosscut

Fig., 101 Straight Crosscut

i:i!ii_!_,¸II¸i¸!::/¸i!i_i;_!i/i:ii_:i_i¸:;: ; _i,_'_

ii!I i_:.... :i :

Fig. 104 Compound Crosscut

Mitel

Straigllt

Fig,, 105 Basic Crosscuts

Fig. 102 Miter Crosscut

Bevel

Compound

Safety Information for

Crosscutting

Read and follow the safety information below

before maldng any type of crosscut.

,_, WARNING

1. Set guard and anti-kickback pawls to

proper height to serve as a partial barrier.

2. The saw blade can throw the

workpiece over the fence if the blade is

pushed backwards into workpiece.You

or others can be hit and injured by the

thrown workpiece. Start a crosscut with

the blade in its rearmost position.

3. if the blade is pulled through the

workpiece beyond the middle of the

blade, it can:

®pick up and throw the cut-off sec-

tion of the workpiece which could

hit and injure you or others in the

area, or;

®lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and pull your

hand into the blade as the blade

is returned. Pull the saw blade

through the workpiece to the dis-

tance shown below.

4. Fingers or hand can slip into the saw

blade as you make a crosscut. Fingers,

hand or arm can be cut off. Keep the

hand holding the workpiece at least 8 in-

ches to the side of the workpiece, out of

the path of the saw blade. Keep hand

holding the workpiece in view at all

times.

5. The blade can come completely off

table edge beyond the 30 ° left miter

position. Fingers, hands, arms or legs

can be cut off. Use the right miter posi-

tion whenever possible to make miter

crosscuts.

6. The blade continues to turn for about

12 seconds after the saw is turned

off. Wait for the blade to stop before

reaching for the workpiece.

7. If length stops are used on the cut-off

end of workpiece, the cut-off end can

be thrown by the blade. The workpiece

could hit and injure you or others in the

area. Do not use a length stop on the

cut-off end of the workpiece. Use a

length stop only on the end of the

workpiece which is held down.

8. Holding on to or touching the cut off

end of the workpiece while the saw

blade is still turning can cause the

workpiece to pinch the blade. The

workpiece can be thrown and hit and in-

jure you or others in the area. Do not

touch, hold on to, push, or grab the cut-

off piece of the workpiece while the

power is on or the saw blade is turning.

9. The saw can throw the workpiece,

workpiece chips or pieces of the blade

violently. You can be blinded. Wear

safety goggles.

Fig_ 106 Blade Distance to Complete Crosscut 48

10. The workpiece cannot be controlled

or held stable enough to do free hand

cutting. The workpiece can be thrown or

slip and pull fingers and hand into the

saw blade. Fingers or hand can be cut

off. Set the radial arm to the desired

cutting angle. Keep workpiece flat on

table and solidly against the fence.

Blade Guard, Anti-Kickback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader are designed to reduce or eliminate

the risk of injury from contact with the upper

half of the blade and the leading edge of the

blade when:

11. Saw parts loosen and wear with

use. You or others can be injured. Keep

all parts tight and in working order.

•the guard is in the horizontal position

and;

12. The fence must be of at least equal

height to the workpiece or else the

workpiece can be lifted or thrown and hit

and injure you or others in the area. See

Cutting Accessories section for instruc-

tions to make a fence.

®the pawls and spreader are set to

clear the top of the fence and

workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

The Blade Guard:

13. The blade will try to pull itself

through the workpiece. Be prepared to

hold the saw handle back to keep the

saw blade from coming toward you.

14. Lock rip lock after every crosscut, or

else the blade will suddenly come

toward you when you lower it to make a

crosscut.

15. Whenever the blade is turning, keep

one hand on the saw handle to keep the

saw blade from coming toward you.

16. Cutting more than one workpiece at

a time can cause you to lose control of

the workpieces, which can be thrown

and hit and injure you or others in the

area. Cut only one workpiece at atime.

Do not stack or lay workpieces edge to

edge.

®provides protection from contact with

the upper half of the blade;

®helps keep the workpiece from jam-

ming in the guard and;

®helps catch or deflect workpiece chips

or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-kickback Bar, Pawls and Spreader:

®serve as a partial barrier to provide

protection from contact with the lead-

ing edge of the blade,

ilk WARNING: To reduce the risk of

contact with the upper half of the blade

and keep the workpiece from jamming in

the guard, set the blade guard in the

horizontal position. Fig. 110.

Crosscutting Checklist

Use the following checklist at the beginning

of each new cutting period to reduce the risk

of an accident.

i , ,

Crosscut Checklist

Yel!ow key removed from red switch.

Saw unplugged and switch off.

No play in the carriage bearings, motor

i support or column. See Alignment of the

Blade section for instructions.

Arm slopes to the rear' and table level side

to side.

Arbor nut snug.

Blade sharp.

Fence secure, solid (knot free) and in good

condition.

Fence in correct table position.

Workpiece does not extend above the top

of the fence.

All saw parts are tight and working.

Saw blade in desired crosscut position and

behind the fence.

Blade guard horizontal.

Anti-kickback pawls and spreader set to

clear top of fence and, or workpiece by

about 1/8 inch.

Swivel, rip, miter, bevel and table locks

locked.

Read and follow instructions for the type

of crosscut you want to do.

Cutting Table and Fence

Kerfs

You will need to cut a new table kerf (shal-

low cut) and fence kerf (slot left in the fence

from sawing through it with the blade), each

time a new cutting angle is used. The table

kerr lets the blade cut all the way through a

workpiece.

Fig. 107 Table and Fence Kerfs

Note: To extend the life of your table top,

you can make an additional table top. See

Helpful Hints section.

Making Table and Fence Kerfs for Crosscut-

ting

To make a crosscut kerf in your table and

fence:

1. Put your fence between the front table and

spacer board. Lock the table locks.

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be-

hind the fence.

3. Lock rip lock.

A_, WARNING: The saw blade will sud-

denly come toward you when lowered

into the table if the rip lock is unlocked.

Fingers and hand can be cut off. Lock

the rip lock before and after each

crosscut.

Fig, 108 Locked Position for Rip Lock

8. Grasp saw handle and hold your forearm

in line with the saw handle as shown below.

4. Lower the radial arm until the blade al-

most touches the table top,

5. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet. Check

Electrical Connections section of manual if

you are not sure the outlet is grounded.

6. Wear safety goggles labeled ANSI Z87.1

on the package.

iX WARNING: The saw can throw the

workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces of

the blade violently. You can be

blinded. Wear safety goggles.

can be blinded,

Wear safety

goggles.

Fig 109 Safety Goggles Safety Sign

7. Insert yellow key into the red switch°

Fig, 110 Crosscut Blade Guard and Body Position

AWARNING: Saw blade can sudden-

ly come toward you when turned on.

Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off.

Keep one hand on the saw handle at all

times.

9, Turn the saw on.

10. Lower the saw arm slowly until the blade

touches the table.

1L Turn the handwheel another 1/2 turn

more, This will let you make a 1/32 to 1/16

inch kerf in the table.

12. Unlock rip lock.

13. Pull the saw blade forward through the

fence and along the table as far as it will go,

14. Return the saw blade to its rearmost posi-

tion behind the fence,

15, Turn the saw off, but do not let go of the

saw handle.

16. Wait for blade to stop turning.

17, Lock rip lock.

18. Remove yellow key from red switch.

Making Crosscuts

The following section contains safety i_fforma-

tion and instructions for making crosscuts.

Anyone who uses your saw should read and

follow these steps.

t3, WARNING: The blade guard must

be horizontal to provide protection from

contact with the upper half of the blade

and avoid the workpiece being jammed in

the blade. Set the blade guard in the

horizontal position. Fig. 110.

DANGER: The anti-kickback pawls

serve as a barrier for the leading edge

or the blade. Set the anti.kickback

pawls to clear the top of the fence and

workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

WARNING: The fence must be at

least equal height or higher than the

workpiece you are going to cut or else

the workpiece can be thrown and injure

you or others in the area. Install a fence

of at least equal height to the workpiece.

1. Put your fence in position A as shown and

lock the table locks.

A B C

I o ,,I

Fig. 111 Fence Position for Crosscut

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be-

hind the fence.

4. Adjust the height of the anti-kickback

pawls to clear top of fence and workpiece by

about 1/8 inch. The pawls and spreader help

provide protection from the leading edge of

blade.

5. Plug saw into grounded outlet.

6. Put on safety goggles.

7. Place the worl_iece against the fence.

8. Unlock rip lock.

9. Grasp the saw handle while holding your

forearm in a straight line with the saw handle.

/k _

_IJb,WARNIN(3: The saw blade tries to

pull itself through the workpiece. Be

prepared to hold saw handle back to

keep the saw blade from coming toward

you. Keep one hand on the saw handle

at all times.

Zk . _

_!_WARNING: If the saw blade is pulled

through the workpiece beyond the mid-

dle of the saw blade, it can:

® pick up and throw the cut-off sec-

tion of the workpiece which could

hit and injure you or others in the

area, or;

e lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and draw your

hand into the blade as the blade

is returned.

3. Lower the blade into but not touching the

table kerf.

Pull the saw blade through the

workpiece to the distance shown below.

12. Support and hold the workpiece down

and against the fence firmly with your left

hand.

13o Pull blade through fence and workpiece

,just enough to complete the cut. Fig 1t2

14o Return saw to its rearmost position and

continue to hold the saw handle°

15. Turn saw off.

16, Wait for the blade to stop turning,

17. Remove yellow key form red switch,

Fig, 112 Distance Needed to Complete Crosscut

10. Insert yellow key into red switch.

11. Turn saw on,

iX WARNING: Saw blade can be

pulled into or over fingers or

hand. Fingers or hand can be cut off.

Keep hand holding the workpiece at

least 8 inches to the left of, and out of

the path of_the saw blade. Keep hand in

view at all times.

Repetitive Crosscuts

To make repetitive crosscuts:

1. Use two pieces of 1inch by 2by 2inch

lumber.

2, Use a C clamp to clamp one piece on each

side of the lower right edge of the radial arm.

3. Clamp pieces of lumber at the distance

necessary to complete the crosscut,

Fig. 113 Hand Placement for Crosscuts

Fig, 114

Ripping is used to change the width of the

workpiece by sawing along its length. The

workpiece is fed into the saw blade. The

fence is used as a guide. Rip cuts are usually

made with the grain of the workpiece.

Saw Positions for Ripping

There are two saw blade positions for making

rip cuts: in-rip and out-rip.

In in-rip position, motor is toward the front

of the table, and blade is toward the fence.

Fig. 115 In-Rip Saw Position

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better

visibility of both the workpiece and your'

hands than does the out-rip saw position.

The only time you should use the out-rip saw

position is when the workpiece is 14 inches

or wider. Use the in-rip position for all

workpieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest

part of the workpiece is between the blade

and the fence. For example, if you want to

take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set

the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do

not rip I inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-

ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence,

WARNING: If the blade is set between 2

inches and 6 inches from the fence, hands

will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers and hand can be cut off. Use a push

stick.

In out-rip position, motor is toward fence and

the blade is toward the front of the table.

Fig_ 116 Out-Rip Saw Fosition @feed End)

_k WARNING: Stand only at infeed end

of saw. Feed workplece only into infeed

end of saw as shown above.

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from

the fence and use a push stick. Use a push

stick when the distance between the saw

blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a push stick.

AWARNING: If the blade is set between

1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands

will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers/hand can be cut off. Use an auxiliary

fence/push block.

For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches

wide and you want to cut I inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches fl'om

the fence and use a push block and auxiliary

fence. See C'utting Accessories section.

Safety Information for

Ripping

Read and follow the safety information below

before making any type of rip cut.

DANGER

1. Kickback can happen when the saw

blade is pinched or bound by the

workpiece. This creates force in the op-

posite direction to which the workpiece

is being fed. The teeth of the blade grab

and throw the workpiece violently back

out of the saw.

Kickback can happen when:

Anti-kickback pawls/spreader are not

used or not correctly adjusted,

Spreaderis not in line with the blade.

Blade is not parallel to the rip fence.

Edgeofworkpiece is not in contact with

the rip fence or not straight.

Workpiece is twisted or warped and rocks

on the table top. :

Edge of workpiece is not completely

against the ril_ fence, leaving gaps

between the fence and worl_piece edge.

WorkpieCe is released before being

pushecl Completely past the saw blade.

Feeding pressure :isput on the section

of the workpiece farthest from the fence.

2. One of the most common and the

most dangerous mistakes people make

is to reach for the workpiece at the out-

feed side of the saw. DON'T ! The

workpiece could kickback as you reach

for, touch or try to pull the workpiece

through the blade. You can lose your

fingers, hand, or arm. The blade guard

does NOT provide complete protection

at outfeed end of the saw. Do not reach

for the workpiece at outfeed end of the

saw. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut

off. Follow instructions for ripping.

Kickback,

Blade Contact.

Fingers, hand or arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for ripping.

Fig_ t 17 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

3. The workpiece can also kickback

violently toward you during a rip cut.

YOU can be hit hard enough to cause

broken bones and/or internal injury.

Keep blade guard, anti-kickback pawls

and spreader in place and adjusted.

Apply feed pressure to the section of

the workpiece next to the fence. Do not

apply feed pressure on the section of

the workpiece away from the fence.

Stand out of the path of the workpiece.

Fig 118 Kickback, Thrown Workpiece Safety Sign

4. Non-thru cuts increase the chance of

kickback because the anti-kickback

pawls cannot always grab the irregular

workpiece surface. Use a featherboard.

See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a featherboard.

2. The workpiece can be grabbed by the

saw blade and take off like a missile.

Anyone standing in the path of the

workpiece can be killed.

5. The workpiece can snag or hang up

on a fence with a kerr in it. The

workpiece can be thrown or pinch the

blade, causing kickback. Use solid fen-

ces when making rip cuts.

6. Wood cut with the grain can spring

the kerf closed, bind the blade, and

cause a kickback. Adjust spreader to

ride in the kerf and prevent the kerr

from closing on saw blade.

7. Composition materials, like particle

boards and plastics, may be cut on the

saw. Because these materials often

have a harder and more slippery surface

than wood, the anti-kickback pawls may

not stop a kickback. Place finished side

of workpiece down, roughest side of

workpiece up. Make anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments. Stand out of

the path of workpiece.

Fig_ 119 Wrong Way Feed Safety Signs

Always feed the workpiece against the

direction of rotation of the blade, at the

infeed end of the blade.

,_ DANGER: Wrong Way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the

workpiece into the end of the blade with

pawls, the outfeed end. (Fig. 120) There

are two things that can happen if you

feed the workpiece into the outfeed end

of the saw blade:

Infeed End of: End

1. The workpiece can be grabbed by the

blade and pull your hands into the blade

before you can let go or pull back.

Fingers, hands or arms can be cut off. FTg,120 Infeed and Ouffeed Ends of Saw Blade

Blade Guard, Anfi-ldckback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

workpiece spreader are designed to reduce or

eliminate the risk of injury from blade con-

tact, workpiece kickback and wrong way feed°

The Blade Guard:

oserves as a partial barrier to help

keep hands from contacting the blade

at the infeed end of the saw blade.

®helps keep the workpiece from lifting

or fluttering during ripping.

ohelps catch or deflect workpiece chips

or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-ICJekback Pawls :

ohelp reduce kickback by grabbing into

and holding the workpiece.

oact as a barrier to provide some

protection from blade contact.

The Spreader:

ohelps keep the kerr of the workpiece

open, which helps prevent the blade

from being pinched and causing

workpiece kickback.

owhen correctly set, helps reduce or

eliminate the chance of wrong way

feed because it blocks the workpiece

from contacting the saw blade.

WARNING: The anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments must be made

each time a different thickness workpiece

is cut to reduce or eliminate kickback.

Rip Cutting Checklist

Use the following rip cutting checklist at the

beginning of each new cutting period to

reduce the risk of an accident.

Rip Cutting Checklist

Yellow key removed from switch.

Saw unplugged and switch off.

No play in the carriage, yoke or column.

Arm slopes to the rear and table level side

Blade sharp.

Fence secure, solid (knot free), no kerfs.

Fence in correct rip position.

Saw blade desired distance from the fence

for cut.

Swivel, bevel, rip, miter and table

locks locked.

BIade guard, anti-kid&ack pawls and

spreader adjusted.

Use push stick if cutting between 2 and

6 inches off workpiece.

Use push biock if cutting between 1/2

and :2inches off workpiece.

Use featherboard if malting a non-through

cut and when needed on tl_rough cuts.

:Read and follow instructions for the type

............................. i,, ,, iii

Making a Rip Cut Table Kerf

You will need to make a table kerf before a

rip cut can be made. Every time you move

the blade a new distance from the fence, you

will need to make a new kerf.

1. Put saw in desired rip position and lock the

saw arm in the 0° position,

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table

locks.

3, Adjust saw arm with handwheel until the

saw blade almost touches the table top,

4. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet,

5. Put on safety goggles,

6, Insert the yellow key in the red switch.

7. Turn saw on.

8. Lower saw blade until blade touches the

table.

9. Turn the handwheel about 1 full turn

more. This will make a 1/16 to 1/8 inch kerf

in the table.

_WARNING: For workpieces 1/4 inch

thick or less, make the rip kerr at least

1/8 inch deep to keep the saw blade

from rising up on top of workpieces and

violently throwing them.

10. Tm'n saw off and remove yellow key.

11, Unplug saw at the end of cutting session.

Adjustments for Pdpping

DANGER: You will need to make

blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader adjustments before making a rip

cut.

Blade Guard Adjustments

1. Unplug saw and remove yellow key.

2. Put saw in In-Rip position and lock the

saw arm in the 0° position.

Fig,. 12t In-Rip Saw Position

3. Lock rip, miter, bevel, swivel and table

locks.

4. Go to the in-feed end of the saw blade.

Fig. 120.

5. Put the workpiece on the table, in line with

blade and under the nose of blade guard, so

it touches the blade.

6. Loosen the guard clamp screw and rotate

the guard until the guard nose just clears the

workpiece, Fig. 122,

7. Tighten the guard clamp screw.

Anti-Kickback/

Infeed ,Spreader

Direction Wing Screw

,_uardClamp

_Screw

Anti'Kickback

Bar

iSpreader

_ oirecti0n of Kickback

Fig. 122 Blade Guard Position for Ripping

Anti.kickback Pawls and Spreader Adjust-

ments

I. Go to the outfeed end of the saw blade°

2. Put edge of worlcpiece beside the blade

and under the pawls.

3. Loosen wing screw and lower the anti-kick-

back pawls and spreader until the spreader

hangs next to the edge of the workpiece and

the pawls, on one side of the spreader, rest

on the workpiece.

Fig. !23Anti-kickback Pawl Position

Making Rip Cuts

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better

visibility of both the worlcpiece and your

hands than does the out-rip saw position. The

only time you should use the out-rip saw posi-

tion is when the workpiece is 14 inches or

wider. Use the in-rip position for all

workpieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest

part of the worl_iece is between the blade

and the fence. For example, if you want to

take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide worlcpiece, set

the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do

not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-

ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

A'k __

_,WARNING: if the blade is set be-

tween 2 inches and 6 inches from the

fence, hands will be brought too close

to the blade. Fingers and hand can be

cut off. Use a push stick.

4. Tighten wing screw.

5. Go to the infeed end of the saw blade.

6. Push the workpiece a few inches in the

direction of the cut and then pull the

workpiece back toward you. The pawls

should have grabbed the wood and stopped

the kickback motion by grabbing into the

workpiece. If they did not, repeat adjust-

ments until the pawls grab the workpiece. If

the pawls fail to grab the workpiece, sharpen

or replace them. If that fails to work, use a

featherboard. Repeat steps for making anti-

kickback pawls and spreader adjustments

above.

For example, if the workpiece is 7inches

wide and you want to cut I inch off the

worlq_iece, place the saw blade 6 inches from

the fence and use a push stick. Use a push

stick when the distance between the saw

blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a push stick.

_WARNING: If the blade is set be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches from the

fence, hands will be brought too close

to the blade. Fingers/hand can be cut

off. Use an auxiliary fence/push block.

For example, if the worl_iece is 3 inches

wide and you want to cut I inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from

the fence and use a push block and auxiliary

fence. See Cutting Accessories section.

_WARNINL_: When making through

rip cuts do not set the blade closer than

1/2 inch from the fence or auxiliary

fence, your hands will be brought too

close to the blade. Your fingers and

hand can be cut off. Do not use aradial

arm saw to rip cut less than 1/2 inch

wide workpieces.

1, Set the blade to desired distance from the

fence and lock the saw arm in the 0° position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table

locks.

9. Stand out of the line of the workpiece to

be clear of worl_iece in case of kickback.

3. Make blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader adjustments.

4. Remove workpiece from table.

5. Turn saw on.

6. Place workpiece under the guard nose,

keeping worlcpiece edge against the fence.

7. Place one hand fiat on the workpiece and

next to fence.

8. Place the other hand behind the first so

that your fingers are:

e on the back edge of workpiece;

oout of the blade path and,

oas close to the fence as possible.

WARNING: Even when all steps to

reduce kickback are taken, the

workpiece can still kickback. You or

others in the area can be hit hard

enough to cause broken bones or inter-

nal organ injury. Stand out of the line of

the saw blade and workpiece.

Fig, 124 Hand and Body Position for Making an In-

Rip Cut

10. Position your body at the infeed end of

the saw blade. Start and complete the cut

from that same side.

11. Push the workpiece, putting pressure on

the part of the workpiece between the blade

and the fence. If you push the part of the

workpiece on the other side of the blade, the

blade could be pinched and the workpiece

will kickback.

12. Keep pushing the section of the

workpiece between the blade and the fence

until the piece has been pushed completely

past the anti-kickback pawls.

DANGER: The blade guard does

NOT provide complete protection at out-

feed end of the saw blade. The

workpiece could kickback as you reach

for, touch or pull the workpiece through

the blade, pulling your hand into the

blade. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut

off. Do not pull, hold.down or touch the

workpiece at the out"feed end of the saw.

Fig 125 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

13. Turn the saw off

,_ WARNING: Blade continues to turn

for about 12 seconds after power is

turned off. Do not reach for cut

workpiece until blade stops, Fingers or

hand can be cut off by the turning

blade. Wait for blade to stop turning.

14. Remove yellow key from red switch,,

Bevel Ripping

To make a bevel rip cut:

1. Set the saw in the desired position.

2. Index the arm to 0° and lock in position.

3. Bevel the blade to the desired angle.

4. Follow steps for making a rip cut.

Note: For dadoing, molding and edging, fol-

low instructions for crosscutting.

Dadoing

1. Instructions for using dado blades are

provided with the dado blade.

2. The saw arbor is designed for a dado set

up to 13/16 inches wide. Use of a wider dado

on the arbor could cause the dado and arbor

nut to spin off. Take several passes of the

dado if cut required is greater than 1.3/16 of

an inch wide.

3. To avoid excessive load on the motor

never cut a 13/16 inch wide dado deeper than

1/8 inch in one pass.

4. When installing the dado on the arbor, al-

ways insta!l the inside loose collar first to en-

sure good arbor nut engagement. Make sure

the arbor nut is snugr Install the arbor nut

directly against the outside of the dado.

Molding

1. Instructions for using the molding head are

provided with the molding head.

2. Use of molding head or drum sander with

the saw arbor vertical requires an opening

(next to rear face of fence) for saw arbor

clearance, See Cutting Accessories section to

make a molding fence.

Edging

1. Edging requires the use of a dado or mold-

ing head in the horizontal position (parallel

to table).

2. Use proper accessory guard when edging°

See Recommended Accessories section.

WARNING: Using the saw without the

proper accessory guard for edging is ex-

tremely dangerous. Hands, fingers or

arm can be cut off. Buy, use and follow

instructions for edging guard.

3. Use an auxiliary fence when edging with

the radial arm in the 0° miter position. See

Cutting Accessories section to make auxiliary

fence for edging in the 0°miter position.

WARNING: If the auxiliary fence is

not used when the saw arm is in the 0°

crosscut position, the molding head can-

not be located behind the fence for safe

and proper operation.

3. Remove saw blade, dado, or other acces-

sory from the saw arbor shaft before using

the accessory shaft° Do not use the saw with

accessories installed on both ends of the saw

arbor shaft at the same time.

4. Edging can also be done in the 30° left

miter without the use of an auxiliary fence.

Follow the instructions below.

4. Make sure the unused shaft is covered by a

guard, the arm, or the screw cap to avoid

being pulled into moving parts by hair,

threads, clothing.

eMiter the arm to the left approximate_

ly 30°.

e Swivel the motor until bottom of

motor is parallel to and facing the rip

fence and operating instructions label

is visible.

5. Drill chucks can bend and pieces of the

drill bit can break. You can be blinded or in-

jured if hit by thrown pieces° Do not use twist

drills longer than 7 inches.

6. Use a spade type drill of I inch diameter

or smaller. Use for drilling only wood or plas-

tic because the speed is not high enough for

other types of materials.

e Follow all steps outlined on motor

label as shown below.

DANGER

Fig,. 126 Edging Label

Accessory Safety

1. For your safety use only recommended ac-

cessories. Use of any other accessories may

increase the risk of injury. See Recom-

mended Accessory section of manual.

7. Do not use other' reduced shank drills.

8. Remove adjusting wrenches. Form habit of

checldng to see that adjusting wrenches are

removed from tool before turning it on.

9. When using the accessory shaft in the verti-

cal position, swivel the motor 90°so that the

arbor shaft is under the radial arm as shown.

WARNING: Clothing, hair, jewelry can

be caught and pulled into an exposed

arbor shaft. Fingers, hand or arm can be

broken or cut off. Place the arbor shaft.

under the radial arm when using the ac=

cessory shaft.

2. Use of grinding wheels, abrasive or cut off

wheels, or wire wheels is dangerous because

they can break explosively and throw pieces.

You can be blinded or recieve a life threaten-

ing puncture wound. Do not use grinding

wheels, abrasive/cut off wheels or wire wheels°

Fig, 127Arbor Shaft Position When Using Acces-

sory Shaft

i,, nuu .... i i,

,, n, i i i, i i I','"IllUI"""'"'M'

Cutting Accessories

Fences Push Stick

Fences are required for all saw operations.

Crosscutting requires fences with kerfs (slots)

to match the path of the saw, because the saw

blade is pulled through the kerf in the fence

to cut the workpiece.

Ripping requires a solid fence with no kerfs

or slots, because the fence serves as a guide

for the workpiece being pushed into the saw

blade. If the workpiece is pushed along a

fence with kerfs, the workpiece can get

caught on a kerr, pinch the blade and cause

the workpiece to kickback.

Make a new fence:

owhen the fence used for crosscutting

has weakened from having too many

kerfs cut in it;

owhen you want to make a rip cut but

the fence on the saw has kerfs;

e when you want to crosscut a

workpiece higher than your current

fence.

To make a new fence:

Push sticks are used during ripping when the

blade is placed between 2 and 6 inches from

the fence.

Make a push stick when:

®the blade is to be placed 2 to 6 in-

ches from the fence;

®existing push stick has been damaged.

To make a push stick:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot free) piece of lum-

ber.

2. Cut a piece 15 inches long by 1 5/8 inches

wide.

3. Cut a 45 degree notch in one end as shown.

Slightly Less Than

Thickness of Workpiece

up to 3/8"--_

N°'ch-C t_.2

Note: A!l Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 128 Push Stick Dimensions

1. Use 3/4 inch knot free lumber. Do not use

particle board or other composite material be-

cause they are not strong enough.

2. Cut lumber to a length equal to the length

of the table, and to a width equal to the

height of the workpiece plus one inch. The

installed fence must be equal to or higher

than the workpiece.

Fig,. 129 Way to Use Push Stick

Auxiliary Fence and Push

Block

An auxiliary fence must be used if the blade

is positioned between 1/2 inch and 2 inches

from the fence during ripping, An auxiliary

fence must always be used with a push block.

Their purpose is to keep your hands away

from the saw blade° They are also needed

when you use the molding head.

Make an auxiliary fence when:

e the blade is to be placed 2 inches or

less from the fence;

®an existing auxiliary fence is not the

same width all along its length;

®the existing auxiliary fence has been

damaged by blade contact.

To make auxiliary fence:

io Use one piece of 3/8 inch plywood and two

pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.

2_ Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 40 inches long

by 5 1/2 inches wide,

3, Cut one piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 40

inches long by 3 5/8 inches wide

4, Cut other piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 40

inches long by 2 1/4 inches wide.

5o Glue the two 3/4 inch plywood pieces to-

gether so that they line up square (flush) on

an edge_

6. Glue the 3/8 inch plywood piece at right

angle to and flush against the 2 I/4 inch wide

3/4 inch plywood°

7. Reinforce with nails.

3/8" Plywood

This Face and This

Edge Must Be Parallel

3/4" Plywood

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig, 130 Auxiliary Fence Dimensions

Push Block

Push blocks are always used with an auxiliary

fence.

Make a push block when:

e the blade is to be placed 1/2 inch to 2

inches from the fence;

e you make the first auxiliary fence;

oexisting push block has been damaged°

To make a push block:

1. Use one piece of 3/4 inch plywood and one

piece of 3/8 inch plywood.

2_Cut the 3/4 inch plywood to t2 inches long

by 5 inches wide.

3. Cut atriangular piece off each of two

corners of the 12 inch side by marking with a

pencil in and down from the corners 1 I/4 in-

ches and cutting along the diagonal formed

by the points.

4. CUt the 3/8 inch plywood to 12 inches long

by 5 1/8 inches wide.

5. Cut out a notch from the 12 inch side of

the 3/8 plywood that is 9 1/2 inches long by

3/8 inch wide. The dimensions of the remain-

ing 3/8 plywood are shown in Fig. 165.

6. Glue the 3/4 inch plywood on top of the

3/8 inch plywood so that their t2 inch sides

are square, as shown;

These Edges Must

Be Parallel

5-1/8

3/4" Plywood

t -01/4x

1-1/4

3/8" Plywood

2-1/2

3/8 3/8

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig 131 Push Block Dimensions

7. Cut a piece of plywood 3/8 inch wide by

2 1/2 inches long and glue it to the underside

of the 3/8 inch plywood in line with the edge

that sticks out. Do not use nails because if

you accidently cut into the push block with

the saw blade, the nails will dull the blade.

8. Lay the push block on top of the auxiliary

fence to make sure that their widths match ex-

actly, and are each 4 3/4 inches.

Fig. 132 Way to Use Auxiliary Fence/Push Block

Auxiliary Fence for Edging

Make an auxiliary fence for edging:

o before doing edging with the arm at

0°miter position.

owhen existing ones have been

damaged.

To make a fence for edging:

I. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot-free) lumber.

2. Cut to the dimensions shown.

Auxiliary Fence Spacer Table

Rear Table

Front Table

- 17 ----4 I-,---- 16 ---_1

I' '45"_-_-/z_45° " '1-22_1/43/4

-1 --L

Note:AI,DimensionsinInches 3/4-4

Fig. t33 Auxiliary Fence for Edging

For use of the molding head or drum sander

with saw arbor vertical, the rear table re-

quires an opening (next to rear face of fence)

for arbor clearance. Cut opening directly

below arbor in vertical position. Opening

dimensions are shown below.

_ _,--3 3-1/2

-4 T

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig 134 Rear Table Opening Dimensions

Featherboard

Featherboards are used during rip cutting to

help keep the workpiece against the fence,

The featherboard is clamped to the front

table, so that the angled edge of the feather-

board is against the worlcpiece on the infeed

end of the blade, The other edge of the

workpiece is against the fence.

Make new featherboards when existing ones

have been damaged.

1, Use solid (knot free) lumber 24 inches by

5 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch°

2. On the 24 inch sides mark a point 51/2 ino

ches down on the left and 9 1/2 inches down

on the right from the edge of the board.

Draw a line between the points.

3,Crosscut workpiece at a 30 ° angle then rip

to make the kerfs,

4, Do not clamp the featherboard against the

cut off part of the workpiece_

Fig° 136 Way to Use a Featherboard

Attaching Auxiliary Board to

Crooked Workpiece

If the workpiece you want to rip cut does not

have a straight edge, attach an auxiliary board

to the workpiece,

LPlace irregular side of workpiece against

fence.

Note: Alt Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 135 Featherboard Dimensions

2. Place straight edged auxiliary board on top

of workpiece and against fence.

3. Tack the auxiliary board to the worlcpiece.

The auxiliary board must not extend beyond

the leading end of the workpiece and should

cover the workpiece width only enough to

pass between the blade and fence.

3, Use a fence that is equal to or higher than

the combined height of the workpiece and

auxiliary board.

*Recommended Accessories

Item Cat. No.

Saw blades

(10" diameter with 5/8" hole) See Catalog

Leg Set Caster 9-22221 or 9-22222

Sanding Drum

Drill Chuck and Key

Dust Collector

Molding Head Guard 8"

Taper Jig

Auxiliary Table Cover

Miter Square

Extension Table

Satin Cut Dado

8" Carbide

Standard Cut Dado

Adjustable Dado

7"-24 Tooth Carbide

7"-32 Tooth Carbide

7"- 16 Tooth Carbide

8"-48 Tooth Carbide

Molding Heads

7"-Bits Not Included

7"-27 Piece Set

7"- 15 Piece Set

Sanding Wheel- 10"

Blade Stabilizer

Cabinet Accessories

Shelf

Door

3 Drawer Set

Books

Power Tool Know How

Handbook

Guards

Lower Retractable Guard

(For 90 °Crosscut Only)

9-25246

9-2980

See Catalog

9-29523

9-3233

See Catalog

9-32056

9-32787

9-3257

9-3253

9-3264

9-32475

9-326I

9-3262

9-3263

9-32708

9-3214

9-32!7

9-3218

9-22723

9-2952

9-22251

9-22252

9-22253

See Catalog

9-29009

*Recommended means that these accessories

are designed to fit this radial arm saw Read and

follow accessory instructions on their use and

limitations

Lower Retractable Guard

Alower retractable guard which meets

OSHA requirements for occupational use

of the radial saw is available. (See Note)

The lower guard is designed to provide

protection from contact with the fiat sides

of the blade when the radial saw is in the

90 ° crosscut position and in its rearmost

position behind the fence. The lower

guard only provides protection against

minor lacerations and bruises°

,41_kWARNING: The lower guard does

not provide protection during actual

crosscutting or ripping, or from con-

tact in line with or at an angle to the

saw blade teeth. When in the cut, the

inner and outer guards ride on top of

the fence or workpiece exposing the

saw blade teeth. Fingers, hands or

arm can be cut off if the saw blade is

contacted. Additional hazards are ex-

plained in the instructions accompan-

ing the lower blade guard.

WARNING: The lower blade

guard can get caught or jammed in

fence and table kerfs, jam while set-

ting up for and while making bevel

and compound miter cuts and jam

during certain in-rip cuts. The

workpiece or narrow cut-off pieces

could kickback causing your hands

to be cut by the blade. Use the

lower retractable guard in the 90 °

crosscut position only.

WARNING:

TO AVOID INJURY

SHUT OFF POWER

BEFORE CLEARING A

JAMMED LOWER GUARD

Fig 137 Lower Guard Label

Note: Employers are required to provide the

lower retractable guard unless OSHA grants an

exemption This saw is designed for use in non-

commercial settings

ii.... ii,m,i ,,wlllw,,,i ,i....... i ii,,

................... Glossary .............................................

Anti-kickback Pawls: Pivoted objects with

teeth which help prevent workpiece kickback.

Arbor: The bar or shaft that holds the saw

blade.

Bevel: The slanting of the motor and blade to

an angle between 0° and 90 °.

Crosscut: Cutting a workpiece to length,

Dado' Non-through cut which produces a

square sided notch or trough in the workpiece.

Featherboard: Device used to keep

workpiece in contact with the fence during rip-

ping.

Freehand: Performing a cut without the use

of fence, guide or hold-down designed to

prevent the workpiece from moving during

the cutting operation.

Heel: Misalignment of the blade relative to

blade travel path.

Infeed: The end of the saw blade where the

workpiece is fed during ripping; identified by

the absence of pawls,

In-Rip: Positioning the the motor toward the

front of the table, the blade toward the fence°

Kerr: Slot caused by removal of material by

the blade in a through cut, or ashallow slot

produced by the blade in a non-through cut.

Kickback: Uncontrolled throwing of the

workpiece during ripping.

Miter: Positioning the saw arm to the right or

left of 0°.

Molding Cut: Non-through cut which

produces a contoured surface on the

workpiece_

Outfeed: The end of the saw blade where the

rip cut workpiece leaves the saw blade; iden-

tiffed by presence of pawls.

Out-rip: Positioning the motor toward the

fence, the blade toward the front of the table

during ripping.

Parallel: When two surfaces are the same dis-

tance apart at all points.

Perpendicular: When two surfaces are 90 °

(square) to each other°

Push BloeiffAuxiliary Fence: Two accessories

used together for ripping a workpiece be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches wide°

Push Stick: Cutting accessory used during rip-

ping a workpiece between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches wide.

Revolutions Per Minute (RPM): Number of

turns completed by an object in one minute.

Ripping: Used to change the width of a

workpiece by cutting along its length.

Spreader: Used during ripping to keep the

kerf from closing and pinching the blade. It

helps prevent kickback°

Workpiece: Object being cut by the saw.

...................... ii ,i,1,,,,i , iiii1,,i,, i iii i

................ Helpful Hints ............................

In order to get accurate cutting results from

your radial arm saw, do the following:

1. Follow all steps in the Alignment of

the Blade section.

2. Place the long edge of your framing

square against the edge of the

workpiece that wilt be held against the

fence during cutting° Make sure that

this edge of the workpiece is straight.

3. Make sure that your workpiece lays

flat on the front table of your saw.

4, Clean all sawdust and woodchips

from the table.

5. Hold the workpiece firnfly against the

fence and table during all cuts, You

should use extra force during miter and

bevel cuts since the workpiece tends to

move when these cuts are made.

6. Use the right sawblade for each job,

and make sure that all blades and cut-

ting tools are sharp,

When making a four-sided frame:

1. Make sure that the top and bottom

pieces are exactly the same length.

3, Place the same edge of the workpiece

against the fence for all cuts. Make the

first cut at one end of the workpiece,

then flip the workpiece over and make

the second cut from the other end. Con-

tinue this way until all four cuts are

made. (Figure 1,38)

This Edge of Board Fence

Against Fence For Aii Cuts [

2xl

Turn workpiece over end for end .

keep same edge against fence when

making successive cuts.

Pencil Line for

Gauging Required Length

Fig t38 -Making a 4-Sided Frame

4, Make a pencil line on the table for

gauging the length of each cut.

2. Make sure that both side pieces are

exactly the same length,

To extend the life of the front table of your

saw, tack a piece of 1/4 inch plywood over it.

Make sure that the tacks are not in the path

of the saw blade.

Use of a front table cover does the following:

3. Lock the miter, bevel, or swivel lock.

These steps will reduce stress on saw parts,

and improve the accuracy of your cuts.

,,Allows all cuts to be made in the cover

rather than the front table.

°Slows the dulling of file blade.

There are three pre-set miter angles at 45°

0°, and -45°, five pre-set bevel angles at -90°,

-45°, 0°, 45 °, and 90°, and three pre-set

swivel angles at the crosscut, in-rip and out-

rip positions. When you are moving the arm,

blade, oi' motor into one of these positions,

do the following:

1. Move the arm, blade, or motor past

the position you want, and then gradual-

ly bring it back.

2. Once the arm, blade, or motor snaps

into the desired position, push it to the

right as far as possible within this posi-

tion. Movement of the arm, blade, or

motor will be slight.

The following table is provided to convert the

decimal numbers on the digital display to

fractions..adt decimals are rounded to the

nearest .01 inch. (Figure 139)

O3 _ _53

,06 56

09 60

12 ,63

19 _ ,69

22 72

25 75

28 _. 78

31 81

34 ,85

38 88

44 94

47 97

50 1 O0

Decimal Equivalent

Fig. 139

Motor

To avoid motor damage this motor should be

blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent

sawdust buildup which will interfere with

normal motor ventilation°

Frequently blowing of fuses or tripping of

circuit breakers may result if:

o Motor is overloaded: Overloading can oc-

cur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is mis-

aligned so that the blade heels,

If the motor fails to start, turn the power

switch to the "OFF" position immediately°

Remove the yellow key. UNPLUG THE

TOOL, Check the saw blade to insure that it

turns freely and that its teeth are not wedged

into the table top. After the blade has been

freed, try to start the motor again. If, at this

point, the motor still fails to start, refer to the

"Motor Trouble-Shooting Chart_"

° Motor' circuit is fused differently from rec-

ommendations: Always tollow instructions

for the proper fuse/breaker_ Do not use a

fuse/breaker of greater capacity without

consulting a qualified electrician°

Low voltage: Although the motor is de-

signed for operation on the voltage and fre-

quency specified on the nameplate, normal

loads will be handled safely on voltages not

more than 10% above or below the name-

plate voltage_ Heavy loads, however, re-

quire that voltage at motor terminals equal

the voltage specified on nameplate

o Improper extension cord size

If the motor should suddenly stall while cut-

ting wood, the power switch should be turned

off, remove the yellow key and unplug the

power cord. Free the blade from the wood°

The motor may now be restarted and the cut

finished.

...... i,,11,11....... i,ii iiii1,,,,,,i,

.... Maintaining Your Saw

NIII"II"'"" i HH 'i i

General

_t_ WARNING: For your own safety,

turn power switch off and remove plug

from power source outlet before main-

taining or lubricating your saw.

When you receive your new Craftsman radial

saw, it requires no lubrication. The radial

saw has been partially aligned and all bear-

ings are lubricated and sealed for life. In

time, however, in order to keep your saw in

perfect working order and accurate, it will be

necessary to lubricate and realign. In fact

your radial saw needs more of a cleaning

than a lubrication.

Replacing Antikickback Pawls

Make sure the teeth of the antikickbackpawls

are always sharp. If they become dull they

must be replaced. With a 1/2 inch wrench or

socket remove the 5/16 hex nut and old

pawls. Reasse mble new antildckback pawls

and spreader' to the bar. Check spreader for

proper alignment and correct if necessary_

(See Alignment of the Blade, Installing

Guard /Setting Spreader' section.)

Cleaning

Periodically remove any heavy build-up of

sawdust that may accumulate on the saw.

The absorbing tendency of sawdust will draw

lubricants away from the areas where they

are needed. Clean the carriage bearings and

track surfaces. If packed sawdust and grease

accumulate repeatedly on carriage bearings

and track inspect the wipers for' wear and

replace if necessary. (See Adjustments to

Compensate for Wear, Swivel Lock, later in

this section.)

To avoid motor damage the motor should be

blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent

sawdust build-up which will interfere with

normal motor ventilation.

Lubrication

Your saw is precision built and should be

kept properly lubricated. Before describing

the various points which may periodically re-

quire lubrication, it is more important to first

mention the points which should not be lubri-

cated.

Do not lubricate the following:

ocarriage ball bearings

,,motor bearings

oarea between the miter locking rings

and the column tube

The carriage ball bearings and motor bearings

are sealed ball bearings which require no

added lubrication.

Do lubricate the following, periodically, using

SAE No 10W-30 automotive engine oil:

oApply a few drops of oil along the

swivel h_dex pin and the bevel index pin

only if the pins have a tendency to

stick. Swivel to in-rip or out-rip for

easy access to the swivel indexpin.

Bevel to 45°and bevel indexpin can be

easily accessed behind theyoke as il-

lustrated_ (Figure 140)

.Lubricate the cam surfaces of the rip

lock assembly+

+A light film of oil should be wiped on

the face of the column tube to lubricate

the fit between the column tube and

column support. With elevation hand-

wheel raise ann to upper limit+ Com-

pletely collapse bellows by pulling

down on top flange as illustrated for ac-

cess to column tube. (Figure 142)

Fig+ 140 - Swivel and Bevel Indeg Pins

,Lubricate the bearing points where the

arm attaches to the column tube. With

a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two

screws and the rear arm cover for ac-

cess to these points. Be careful not to

get lubricant on the locking rings as this

will adversely affect the miter locking

function. (Figure t41)

LOCKING RING

Fig, 141 -Bearing Points Where Arm Attaches to

Column Tube

Fig 142 -Collapsed Bellows

,The thread on the elevation shaft as-

sembly can be lubricated through the

oil hole in the center of the radial arm

cap. I_.ubricate ramp on the swivel index

spring.

.Apply a few drops of oil to the foot a_-

semblies, where the levers are inserted

through the rods.

Do not use too much oil. Excessive oil at any

location wil! attract airborne dust particles

and sawdust.

Refer to parts lists for locations of parts as

needed+

Adjustments for Wear

Bevel Lock

The purpose of the bevel lock is to lock the

motor at any bevel angle. An adjustment is

required if the motor can be easily moved by

hand when the bevel lock is locked or if bevel

lock offers minimal resistance when moving it

to the locked position. To make this adjust-

ment:

LRemove motor" support cover.

2oPosition the motor at approximately 30°

bevel angle and lock bevel lock_ (Figure 143)

Swivel Lock

Ihis handle provides a fr'iction lock between

the upper face of the yoke and the bottom

t'ace of the carriage. It should eliminate any

play or' rotation between these two parts when

locked. An adjustment is required if the yoke

can be easily rotated by hand when handle is

locked or' ,yoke lock handle offers minimal

resistance when moving handle to the locked

position° To make this adjustment:

Fig. 144

Fig !43 * Bevel Lock - Locked

3. With a 3/4 socket tighten the 1/2-13 hex

nut located at the back of the motorsupport

casting until the motor can no longer be easily

moved by hand. Do not overtighten.

4, Unlock bevel lock and move motor to any

of the five index positions. If the motor does

not index securely the adjustment is too tight.

Loosen 1/2-13 hex nut until bevel indexpin

seats properly.

5oAdjustment is complete when both locking

and indexing functions are working properly.

Replace motor support cover:

1_ Remove screw and nut trom knob on

swivel lock_ Remove knob from swivel lock

arm using a regular screw driver.

2. Remove the two screws from swivel lock

arm. This will separate the wrench portion

from the arm portion of' the swivel lock

3_ Using the wrench portion tighten the

square nut one quarter rotation at a time,, Ihis

is done by locating the wrench across the

corners ot the square nut then moving the

wrench unti! it lines up with the arm portion

and the two screw holes are in line,,

Arm and Column

With the miter lock unlocked and in the unln-

dexed position the arm should fit snugly to

the column tube and not allow any vertical

movement, if you can move the end of the

arm up and down an adjustment is needed_

!. With a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two

screws and the rear arm cover.

Fig, 145

4. Holding the wrench and arm in position

rotate ,yoke to a non-preset position and

rotate swivel lock to the locked position. If the

yoke can still be moved the square nut has not

been tightened enough, Repeat step 3.

5_ When the adjustment is such that the yoke

can no longer be moved when the swivel lock

is in the locked position, Install the two

screws.

6, Unlock swivel arm and rotate yoke to a

non-preset position. Return ,yoke to a rip

position° If the indexpin does not securely

seat at the preset position, the adjustment is

too tight. Remove the two screws and loosen

the square nut one quarter turn until swivel

index pin seats securely.

7. Adjustment is complete when both locking

and preset position functions are working

properly,

8. Re-install the two screws mounting the

wrench portion of the swivel lock.

9_ Re-install knob to swivel handle and install

screw and nut in knob.

2o With a 9/16 inch wrench or socket tighten

evenly the top two 3/8-16 hex head tapping

screws. The bottom two screws should also be

tightened evenly but not as tight as the top

screws. (Figure 146)

Fig, 146 _Location of He_ Head Tapping Screws

3. This adjustment is correct when the arm

moves firmly without vertical movement.

4. Re-install the rear arm cover°

Carriage Bearings

The carriage should roll freely but with some

resistance for the entire length of travel. To

check for bearing looseness, perform the fol-

lowing steps°

L Place .yoke in either the in-rip or out-rip

position.

2_Push the carriage back against the rear stop.

3. Hold the front carriage bearing with your

fingers as tight as possible and pull carriage

forward at the same time. If you can prevent

the bearing from turning an adjustment is re-

quired, (Figure 147)

Fig 147 -Front Carriage Bearings

4. Repeat step 3 with the rear' carriage bear-

ings.

To adjust the carriage beatings perform the

following steps:

1, Clean and lubricate the bearing races and

the bead on which they ride prior to adjust-

ment,

2. To adjust the bearing, use a 9/16 inch

wrench to hold the bolt head while using a

1/2 inch wrench to loosen the hex nut.

(Figure 148)

Fig 148 -Location of Hex Nut

3. Rotate the eccentric bolts a partial turn

(left or right) as required to take up loose-

ness. Both bolts should be adjusted an equa!

amount to maintain blade squareness to the

table in the rip positions,

4, Hold the head of the eccentric bolts in their'

new position and retighten the nuts. Do not

overtighten, Overtightening the bearings wi!!

cause difficult operation and severly reduce

the life of the track and beatings,

5_Repeat the test procedure as described

above and readjust if necessary,

Miter Lock

The miter tock operates adjustable locking

bands which lock the arm to the column tube

in both indexed and unindexed positions° If

the arm can be easily moved by hand when

locked in an unindexed position the following

adjustment must be made.

1. Move the ann to an unindexed position

and leave tire miter lock in the unlocked posi-

tion. (Figure t49)

Miter Lock Handle

Fig_ 149 -Miter Lock -Unlocked

2. With a 3/16 inch hex "L" wrench find the

1/4-20 hex socket cap screw through the hole

in the rear of the ann cover° To tighten turn

the wrench clockwise approximately 1/4 turn.

(Figure !50)

Fig. 150 -Location of Flex Socket Cap Screw

3. Lock the miter lock and try again to move

the atrn, Readjust if necessary.

4. If it becomes extremely difficult to push

the miter lock into the locked position too

much adjustment has been made. Turn the

wrench counterclockwise one half the

amount of the last adjustment and try again

to lock the arm.

Rip Lock

The n_plock locks the carthage in any position

along the length of the ann° If the carriage

can be easily moved by pushing and pulling

on theyoke handle when the rip lock is in the

locked position an adjustment is required.

1, Hold the rip lock in the unlocked position

and with a7/16 inch wrench tighten the 1/4-

20 hex lock nut 1/4 turn. (Figure 151)

Arm Track

\,,t//

Spring Cocknut

Lever Cam Carriage

Bolt

Fig 151 -Location of Flex Lock Nut

2. Lock the rip lock and try again to move the

carriage. Make additional adjustments if

necessary.

3oPlace the rip lock in the unlocked position

and move the carriage back and forth from

stop to stop. If the carriage is difficult to

move at any point or you can feel the rip lock

dragging on the track the adjustment is too

tight, Loosen the hex nut one half the

amount of the last adjustment and try again.

u_ ..... i .......... i,,,i i., iii1,, II"MII'

Troubleshooting

i, , p q ,,, ,p, , qp I...... , q, IllU q ....

WARNING: To avoid injury turn power switch off and remove plugfrom power

source outlet before troubleshooting.

Electronics

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

No display when On/Off

button is pressed,

Battery not installed correctly. Adjust battery position in com-

partment.

Battery contacts dirty. Clean battery contacts.

Battery dead. Replace battery with 6V, size J,

alkaline battery.

Indicator display failure, Contact Sears. Have electronics

checked by qualified technician.

Display shows Normal display when battery is No action required.

first installed in unit.

ELE =Reference points not set for

desired display.

Follow procedure for setting zero

reference points in the Setting

Electronic Display section,

Poor battery contact to in- Clean battery contacts. Adjust

dicator display leads causing in- battery position in compartment.

termittent power to display.

Indicator' display failure. Contact Sears. Have electronics

checked by qualified technician.

Display dim. Low battery voltage. Replace battery with 6V, size J,

alkaline battery.

Saw very cold. Allow saw to warm to above

32 .

Display dark. Saw very warm, Allow saw to cool to below 120°F.

Display blains after a few

minutes.

Normal. Press On/Off button. Display

should return.

Display blanks when

moving carriage, then

re-appears when motion

stops.

Normal. Sometimes indicator

will not display while blade

position is changing rapidly.

No action required.

Electronics - 2

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

Display shows EEE.E or Arm or carriage moved too Follow procedure for setting

rapidly for indicator to monitor, zero reference points in the Set-

ting Electronic Display section.

Display wii! reset to zero

but immediately shows

EEE.E or EE.EE when

arm or carriage is moved°

Encoder or indicator display

defective. Have electronics checked by

qualified technician. Repair ser-

vice available at nearest Sears

Store.

Display does not change

when arm or carriage is

moved.

Wrong indicator function

selected, Select proper function.

Encoder or indicator display

defective. Have electronics checked by

qualified technician. Repair ser-

vice available at nearest Sears

Store.

Display does not read 0°, Indicator not set to zero

or 45 ° at bevel or miter in- reference at index points.

dexes.

Follow procedure for setting

zero reference points in the Set-

ting Electronic Display section.

Angle encoder not adjusted. Follow procedure for adjusting

encoders in the Setting

Electronic Display section.

Motor

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

Motor will not run. Protector open; circuit broken. Push red button located on top

of motor, Listen for audible

click that indicates motor is

reset,

Low voltage. Check power line for proper

voltage°

Motor will not run and

fuses blow. Short circuit in line, cord, or

plug. Inspect line, cord, and plug for

damaged insulation and shorted

wires,

Short circuit in motor or loose

connections. Inspect all terminals in motor

for loose or shorted terminals

or worn insulation wires.

Incorrect fuses in power line. Install correct fuses.

Motor -2

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

Motor fails to develop full

power.

(Power output of motor

decreases rapidly with

decrease in voltage at

motor terminals. For ex-

ample: a reduction of

10% in voltage causes a

reduction of t9% in maxi-

mum power output of

which the motor is

capable, while a reduction

of 20% in voltage causes a

reduction of 36% in maxi-

mum power output.)

Power line overloaded with

lights, appliances, and other

motors.

Reduce the line load,

Undersize wires or circuit too

long.

Increase wire sizes, or reduce

length of wiring.

General overloading of power

company's facilities.

(In many sections of the

country, demand for' electrical

power exceeds the capacity of

existing generating and distribu-

tion systems).

Request a voltage check from

power company.

Motor overheats. Excessive feed rate when

crosscutting or ripping.

Slow down rate of feed.

Improper cooling.

(Air circulation restricted

through motor due to sawdust,

etc.)

Clean out sawdust to provide

normal air circulation through

motor.

Saw blade has heel. Refer to Making Blade Parallel

to Table section.

Motor starts slowly or

fails to come up to full

speed.

Starting switch will not trip due

to low voltage.

Correct low voltage condition.

Motor stalls resulting in

blown fuses or tripped cir-

cuit breakers.

Voltage too low to permit Correct the low line voltage con-

motor to reach operating speed, dition.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not Replace fuses or circuit

have sufficient capacity, breakers with proper capacity

unitk

Frequent opening of fuses

or circuit breakers.

Motor overloaded.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not

have sufficient capacity.

Reduce motor load.

Replace fuses or circuit

breakers.

Saw Operations

Problem

Crosscuts not accurate at

0° and 45°miter.

Probable Cause

Looseness between column tube

and column support.

What to Do

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Adjusting Elevation.

Crosscut travel not square

with fence. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Crosscut Travel.

Column is loose in support. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Adjusting Elevation.

Arm not indexing properly. Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Miter

Lockr

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping.

Looseness between yoke and car- Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

riage assembly. Adjustments for Wear, Swive!

Lock_

Sawdust between workpiece and Keep front table clean.

fence.

Fence not straight. Replace fence.

Saw cuts at slight bevel

(not 90° to table). Work table not properly leveled. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade not square to table. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Crosscutting.

Carriage Bearings Loose Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping°

Bevel lock loose. Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Bevel

Lock°

Saw Operations - 2

Problem Probable Cause. What to Do

Workpiece kerr rough

with tooth marks from

blade (also called heel).

Saw blade not square

to fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Fence.

Saw blade not parallel

to table,, Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Using improper blade for finish Use proper smooth cutting

cut desired, blade.

Wood binds, smokes, and Dull blade or warped board.

motor slows down or stops

when ripping.

Sharpen or replace the saw

blade. Do not use severely

warped material.

Feed rate too fast. Slow feed rate.

Saw blade heels. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Fence not straight. Replace fence.

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Aligmnent of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for Rip-

ping.

Board pulls away from

fence when ripping.

Saw blade has heel. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Workpiece strikes

spreader when ripping.

Spreader not in line with blade. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Installing Guard /Setting

Spreader.

Saw does not travel

smoothly on arm.

Dirty track. Clean track and lubricate with

light grease.

Bad bearing. Replace bearing.

Worn track. Replace track.

Clamping force not suffi- Miter lock needs adjustment.

cient at miter angles other

than 45°.

Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Miter

Lock.

Saw Operations - 3

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

Clamping force not suffi-

cient at bevel angles other

than 45°.

Depth of cut varies from

one end of the work_iece

to the other°

,,, IlL, i

Bevel lock needs adjusting.

Table top not parallel with arm.

i J,,, ,,, i,,,ll i,

Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Bevel

Lock.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade tends to advance

through lumber too fast.

Dull blade.

Not advancing saw properly.

Replace or sharpen blade.

i i i ,,,,,,,J i t,, ,,u

Draw saw blade across lumber

with a slow and steady pul!.

Table cannot be leveled.

(Right side is higher than

left side with no adjustment

left, or vice versa.)

Column support shifted where it

mounts to saw base.

Loosen the six bolts that hold

the column support to the saw

base and shift arm.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

(SeeFig 8)

(See Fig, 6)

(See Fig, 2)

Fig. 3 & 4)

(See Fig. 5)

FIGURE 1

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

Always order by Part Number -Not by Key Number

FIGURE 1

Key

No.

Part

No.

816333 =1

STD551010

815857-1

808380-6

8!5649

815710

815820

816333

60074

806828-3

60t 28

STD512510

STD551125

STD54!025

137384

Description

*Screw, Pan Rec..

Type "TT" 10-32 x 1/2

*Washer, Flat

13/64 x 7/16 x 1/16

Screw, Hex Washer Hd

3/8-16 x 1-1/2

Screw, Pan Rec Hd.

Plastite No 8 x 1

Bearing, Arm

Strap

Cap, Arm

*Screw, Pan Rec Hd,

Type "TT" 10-32 x 7/8

Arm Assembly (see Fig.. 6)

Table Board Set (see Fig. 8)

Screw, Hex Socket Set

1/4-20 x 7/8

Screw, Pan Hd Rec.

Type "T" 1/4-20 x 1-3/4

Washer, 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

*Screw, Pan Hd. 1/4-20 x 1

*Lockwasher 1/4

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20

Nut, Tee

Key

No,

Part

NO.

815989

815774

60208

815980

815856-1

815881

815928

815869

815935

805589-5

816115

815773

SP5102

507808

i507499

!507529

Description

Clip, "U" 1/4-20

Rivet 1/4 x 1/2

Nut, Push 1/4

Bushing

Screw, Hex Washer Hd

5/16-18 x 1-1/4

Yoke and Motor Assembly

(see Fig. 3)

Guard Assembly (see Fig 7)

Base and Column Assembly

(see Fig. 2)

Cap, Trim R.H

Ledge, Trim

Cap, Trim L.H

Screw, Pan Hd Ty "BT"

1/4 x 1/2

Screw, Truss Hd

1/4-20 x 1/2

Cord with Plug

Cover, Rear Arm

Owners Manual (Not !lls )

Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills)

Bag of Loose Parts (Not llis)

Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills)

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

_,23

FIGURE 2

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.19825'1

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 2 -BASE AND COLUMN ASSEMBLY

iKey Part

iNo. No.

i 1 815857-1

i 2 815649

i 3 141594-31

i 4 815774

5 815702

6 60208

! 7 815763

! 8 816845-1

9 815672-1

!10 330751

111 815754

12 815770

13 817149

I4 815690

i15 STD581043

!16 63500

_17 63618

18 63614

19 STD523107

20 815772

21 STD582050

22 815699

23 STD511105

24 iSTD5512,t0

Description

Screw, Hex Washer Hd,

3/8-16 x 1-1/2

Bearing, Arm

*Screw, Socket Hd Cap

1/4-20 x 1-1/4

Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2

Lock Assembly

Nut, Push 1/4

Latch Arm

Screw, Soc Hd Ty"T"

1/4-20 x 3/4

Tube

Fastener

(Model t13 198211 only)

Bellows, Tube

(Model 113.198211 only)

Gib, Column Tube

Screw, Locking Set

1/4-20 x 5/8

Support, Column Tube

*Ring, Retaining 7/16

Washer, Thrust

,502 x 927 x ,031

Gear, Pinion

Bearing Lift Shaft

*Screw, Hex Hd,

5/16-I8 x 3/4

Bushing, Elevation

*Ring, Retaining 1/2

Shaft, Elevating Crank

*Screw, Pan Hd 10-32 x 1/2

*Lockwasher, External #10

Key Part

No. No. Description

25 815707

26 804182

27 STD551131

28 STD541031

29 9416187

30 STD551031

31 63673

32 60013

33 STD523107

34 507654

35 STD541431

36 63536

37 STD541450

38 817106

39 816977

40 816976

41 STD601103

815826

815771

815864

815749-1

816273

STD610803

63062

3540

817022

Handwheel

*Ring, Retaining

*Lockwasher, External 5/t6

*Nut, Hex 5/16-18

Screw, Hex Hd Ty "T"

5/16-18 x 3/4

*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16

Channel, Table Mtg

Washer, 11/32 x 7/8 x 1/t6

*Screw, Hex Hd, 5/16-18 x 3/4

Base Assembly

*Nut, Lock 5/I6-18

Clamp, Table

*Nut, Lock 1/2-13

Washer, Keyed

Gear, Bevel

Shaft, Elevating

*Screw, Pan Rec Hd

Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8

Actuator, Elevation

Nut, Elevation

Cover, Column Support

Encoder, Elevation

Screw, Truss Rec Hd

1/4-20 x 1/2

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd

Type "AB" #8 x 3/8

Wrench, Shaft

Wrench, Arbor

Cord, Elevation

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally

PARTS LiST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113,198211 and 113.198251

MOTOR CORD

33 32

11 12

,,14

15 16 17

22 21

29 26

27 22

FIGURIE 3

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 3 -YOKE AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY

l ey I Pad

No.J No,

I 1 1815803

2t8102!4-2

3 tSTD551225

4 1STD551012

71808380-6

81815662

9 _815683

10 1817162

11 1815678

12 _815679-1

13 1805561-10

14 ]815791

15 _815677

16 1815813

17 J615836

18 1815685

815799

Description

Cap, Motor Support

Screw, Low Hal,,

Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8

*Lockwasher, Internal 1/4

*Washer, 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/t6

aMotor (Complete) (See Fig 5)

Yoke Assembly (see Figure 4)

Screw, Pan Hd.,

PIastite No,, 8 x 1

Cover, Handle

Handle

Grip

Washer, Shaft

Pin, Index

Washer, .,505x 7/8 x 1/16

Spring, Bevel

Lever, Bevel Lock

Nut, Square 1/2-13

Wedge, Bevel Spring

Cover, Yoke

Plug, Yoke

Keyl Pad

No.I No.

20 1815686

21 1808380-2

22 19420474

23 1815676

24 1455734

25 1815674

26 1810214-2

_ 27 1815751

28 1815673

29 1815802

30 ISTD510802

31 !805839-1

32 162498

33 19-32668

34 13O495

35 160475

Description

i ,111,111,1,

Knob, Bevel Lock

Screw, Pan Hd.

Piastite No. 8 x 3/8

Screw, Hex Hd,

Type "T" 10-32 x 1/2

Shaft Support

Pin, Roll 1/8 x 3/4

Plate, Adjustment

Screw, Low Hd.,

Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8

Encoder, Bevel

Plate, Index

Guide, Bevel Reader

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hdo

Type "T" 8-32 x 5/16

*Nut Lock 1/2-13

Collar, Blade

-Blade, Saw

Nut, Shaft

Tie, Cable

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally

tStock Item may be Secured Through the Hardware Department of Most Sears Retail or Catalog Order

Houses_

eAny attempt to repair this motor may result in unit misalignment and create a HAZARD unless repair is done

by a qualified service technician. Do not loosen the three screws holding the motor support to the motor. This

assembly is factory aligned. Repair service is available at your nearest Sears Store,

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

78 9

\\ ,o

22 21

l _o

19 J"1_

FIGURE 4

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.19821'1 and 113.198251

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 4 - YOKE ASSEMBLY

Part

No.

810214_3

STD315485

STD551031

817181

815689

STD551062

815827

STD600803

815817

STD541462

62636

815693

STD541425

273229

816497

815671

815804

815692

STD532510

808380-2

STD541231

Description

Screw, Low Hd

Cap 5/16-18 x 7/8

*Bearing, Ball 3t50 ID,

*Washer, 2!/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

Wiper, Track

Carriage

*Washer, 630 x 1=1/8 x 3/32

Actuator, Rip

*Screw, Pan Rec Hd,

Type "T" 8-32 x 3/8

Nut, Sqo Lock

*Nut, Lock 5/8-11

Nut, Sq 1/4-20

Bracket, Rip Lock

*Nut, Lock 1/4420

Screw, Hex Hdo

Type "T" 1/4-20 x 1/2

Spring, Rip Lock

Cam, Rip Lock

Knob, Rip Lock

Lever, Rip Lock

*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 1

Screw, Pan Hd,,

Plastite No 8 x 3/8

*Nut, Hex Jam 5/16-18

Key

No.

Part

No.

STD551131

815691

STD551012

i815798

810214-2

815645

109529

815679

:815680

9420474

815694

STD551031

63777

60438

815807

STD541025

816988

816987

816986

STD512515

STD510602

62520

Description

*Lockwasher, External 5/16

Ring, Yoke Index

*Washer, 17/64 x 7/16 x 1/32

Lockwasher, High Collar 1/4

Screw, Low Hal,,

Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8

Yoke

Nut, Square 5/8-11

Pin, Index

Spring, Swivel

Screw, Hex Type "T"

10-32 x 1/2

Stud, Yoke Clamp

*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x t/16

Bearing, Carriage

Washer, No. 2 Carriage

Bearing

Screw, Eccentric

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20

Knob, Swivel

Wrench, Adjustment

Actuator, Swivel

*Screw, Pan Hd

1/4-20 x 1-!/2

*Screw, Pan Hd 6-32 x 1/4

Spacer

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally,

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

FIGURE 5

PARTS LiST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 5 -MOTOR ASSEMBLY

_] Pad

...... No.

....ii1,1 ,i,

1,100, .

I 2 STD376116

I 3 164950

I 4 64951

I 5 IS4946

_6_30582

Description

Housing, Motor

*Capacitor

Screw, Type "T"

Screw, Flat Head

Screw, Ground

Cap, Shaft

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

FIGURE 6

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 6 - ARM ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

Part

No.

815688

8! 5809

815774

815790

STD601103

815703

815856

815779

815741

STD363539

815735

815704

STD551208

STD600803

816113

815863

815976

815938

815789

816492

STD601103

Description

Arm, Radial

Cable

Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2

Actuator Assembly

*Screw, Pan Rec.

Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8

Knob, Miter Lock

Screw, Hex Washer Hd

5/16-18 x 3/4

Bushing

Controls, RS

eBattery

Lid, Battery Access

Housing, Switch

*Lockwasher, Internal #8

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Type "T" #8-32 x 3/8

Switch, Locking

Key, Switch

Bezel, Switch

Pad, Guard

Strain Relief

Clip, Wire

*Screw, Pan Reco Hd.

Type "T" #10-32 x 3/8

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally

• Can also use these battery numbers:

Eveready #539

Rayovac #867

Duracel #7K67

KeY IPall

No. NO.

22 816490

23 815784

24 816178

25 815856

26 815867

27 815708

28 STD551010

29 815752

30 808380-10

31 815868

32 69138

33 815670

34 346O30

35 815783

36 i60208

37 1816333-3

38 STD551210

39 STD375006

Description

Encoder, Rip

(Includes Key #20)

Label, Trim L.H

Sleeve, Rubber

Screw, Hex Washer Hd.

5/16=18 x 3/4

Spring, Compression

Spring, Miter Lock

*Washer 13/64 x 5/8 x t/32

Encoder Miter

Screw, Pan Rec. Hd_

Plastite #10-!4 x 3/8

Relief, Strain

Ring, Cord

Arm, Carriage Support

Screw, Pan Rec Hd..

8-10 x '1/2

Label, Trim R.H.

Push Nut, 1/4

Screw, Pan Hd_

Type "TT" 10-32 x 5/8

*Lockwasher Ext #!0

Connector, Wire

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

17 /

16 18

12 9 9

14 13

9 9

FIGURE 7 -GUARD ASSEMBLY

Always order by Part Number -Not by Key Number

IKeyj Part

INo. INo.

I1 1816264-1

I 2 1120399

I 3 163258

14 163541

15 1815816

I6 ISTDS51OlO

I 7 pTa601103

/ 8 ISTD541231

9L_L[815815

Description

Guard

*Nut, Square 5/16-t8

Elbow, Dust

Bar, Anti-Kickback

Guide, Anti-Kickback

*Washer, 13/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

*Screw, Pan Hd.

Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8

*Nut, Hex Jam 5/6-18

Pawl

Key

No.

Part

NO.

STD581050

63270

816341

60435

816070

166785-3

63538

STD510805

STD551208

STD541008

Description

*Ring, Retaining

Spreader

Bearing (Includes Key #10)

Grip

Screw, Guard Clamp

Screw, Wing 5/16-18 x 2-3/4

Clamp, Guard

*Screw, Pan Hd 8-32 x 1/2

"Lockwasher, External No. 8

*Nut, Hex 8-32

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

Always order by Part Number -Not by Key Number

FIGURE 8 -TABLE ASSEMBLY

Key Pad

No. No.

1 815794

2 815755

363432

4815796

Description

Table, Rear

Table Spacer

Fence, Rip

Table, Front

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally_

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

j14!3

6 1

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 9 -PARTS LIST 23" CABINET (MODEL 113.198211 ONLY)

,,,,,

Key

No.

Part

No.

805589-5

815900

817151

815933

STD600603

815887

816274

815882

816274-1

815934

Description

i ,i,

Screw, Truss Hd

1/4-20 x 1/2

Skirt 23"

Panel Side R_H

Catch, Magnetic

*Screw, Pan Hd.

Type "T" 6-32 x 3/8

Shelf, Lower 23"

Screw, Pan Hd

Plastite 6-10 x 1/2

Door, Cabinet

Screw, Pan Hd.

Plastite 10-10 x 1/2

Hinge, Door

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Key Part

No, No. Description

1t 815993

12 !816063

13 iSTD541025

14 STD551225

15 817108

16 817150

17 803835-1

18 STD541237

19 816111

20 816004

507530

507807

Bracket, Corner

Stiffener, Shelf

*Nut, Hex I/4-20

*Lockwasher, Ext. 1/4

Spacer

Panel Side L.Ho

Foot, Leveling

*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8116

Cover

Caster', Stationary

Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.198211 and 113.198251

\12

FIGURE 10 -LEG SET (MODEL 113.198251 ONLY)

Always order by Part Number -Not by Key Number

Key IPart

N°'i No. Description

8159! 8

817105

815909

STD541237

803835-1

805589-5

STD551225

STD541025

507783

Stiffener, Leg

Leg

Stiffener, Lower

*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16

Foot, Leveling

Screw Truss Hdo !/4-20 x 1/2

*Lockwasher, Into 1/4

*Nut, 1/4-20

Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills,)

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally,

NOTES

SERVUCE

MODEL NO.

113.198211

t 0" ELECTRONIC

RADIAL SAW WITH

23" CABINET AND

1 DOOR

113.198251

10" ELECTRONIC

RADIAL SAW WITH

LEG SET

HOW TO ORDER

REPAURPARTS

104NCH ELECTRONIC

RADIAL

Now that you have purchased your 10-inch electronic radial saw, should

a need ever' exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears

Service Center and rnostrSears, Roebuck and Co. stores_ Be sure to

provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit°

The model number of your 10-inch electronic radial saw will be found on

a plate attached to your saw, at the left-hand side of the base.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOW-

ING INFORMATION:

PART NUMBER

MODEL NUMBER

113,198211

113198251

PART DESCRIPTION

NAME OF ITEM

ELECTRONIC

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears Service Center and most

Sears stores If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will

be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center

for handling_

_'J _ ii ................... iu LI,,, ,I, II,l,_

Part No. SP5!02

Sotd by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Form No,. SP5102-! Printed in U_S,A,,8/_J3

Craftsman 113198251 User Manual 10 INCH ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW Manuals And Guides L0803498

CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Manual L0803498 CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Owner's Manual, CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial installation guides

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