03_foreword 2003 Polaris Trail Boss 330 Service Manual Part III

User Manual: 2003 Polaris Trail Boss 330 Service Manual part III

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Page Count: 71

FINAL DRIVE

7.2

WHEEL, HUB, AND SPINDLE

TORQUE TABLE

Item Specification

Front Wheel Nuts 20 Ft. Lbs. (27 Nm)

Rear Wheel Nuts 50 Ft. Lbs. (68 Nm)

Front Spindle Nut 40 Ft. Lbs. (54 Nm)

Rear Hub Retaining Nut 80 Ft. Lbs. (109 Nm)

NOTE: Refer to exploded views and text for torque

values of other fasteners

CAUTION: Locking nuts and bolts with preapplied

locking agent must be replaced if removed. The

self-locking properties of the nut or bolt are reduced

or destroyed during removal.

FRONT HUB

DISASSEMBLY/INSPECTION

1. Elevate front end and safely support machine

under footrest / frame area.

CAUTION: Serious injury may result if machine tips

or falls. Be sure machine is secure before beginning

this service procedure. Wear eye protection when

removing bearings and seals.

2. Check bearings for side play by grasping tire /

wheel firmly (top and bottom) and checking for

movement. It should rotate smoothly without

binding or rough spots.

3. Remove wheel nuts and wheel.

4. Remove the two brake caliper bolts and the brake

caliper.

5. Remove hub cap, cotter pin, front spindle nut, and

washer.

6. Rotate each bearing by hand and check for

smooth rotation. Visually inspect bearing for

moisture, dirt, or corrosion. Replace bearing if

moisture, dirt, corrosion, or roughness is evident.

7. Place a shop towel on hub to protect surface.

Carefully pry seal out of hub.

FINAL DRIVE

7.3

8. Using a brass drift, tap bearing spacer to one side

to expose inner bearing race. Drive bearing out

using a drift through opposite side of hub and

discard.

Tap spacer to side

9. Remove spacer and drive other bearing out and

discard.

10. Clean hub and spacer thoroughly.

11. Inspect spacer for wear or damage. Measure

length of spacer and replace if worn beyond

service limit or if ends are rounded.

Bearing Spacer Length:

Service Limit: 2.1850²(5.55 cm)

FRONT HUB ASSEMBLY

Seal

Hub assembly view

1. Drive or press one new bearing into hub using a

1.180 (46 mm) bearing driver.

CAUTION: Do not drive on the inner race of the

bearing.

Premium All-Season Grease

(PN 2871322) (3 oz. Tube)

(PN 2871423) (14 oz. Tube)

2. Coat bearing spacer with grease and install into

hub. Drive or press the other bearing into hub until

seated against spacer.

FINAL DRIVE

7.4

3. Install seal into hub (with numbers facing out) until

flush with end of seal bore.

Seal

FRONT HUB INSTALLATION

1. Inspect spindle seal and bearing surface for wear

or damage.

Inspect and Grease

2. Apply grease to spindle.

3. Install hub on spindle.

4. Apply grease to washer and install with domed

side facing out.

Out

Cone

Washer

5. Install spindle nut and tighten to specification.

2x4SpindleNutTorque:

40 ft. lbs. (55.0 Nm)

6. Install a new cotter pin. Tighten nut slightly if

necessary to align cotter pin holes.

7. Rotate wheel and check for smooth operation.

Bend both ends of cotter pin around end of

spindle in different directions.

8. Lightly grease a new O-ring and install on hub

cap. Install hub cap.

9. Rotate hub. It should rotate smoothly without

binding or rough spots or side play.

10. Install brake caliper using new bolts. Tighten

bolts to specified torque.

Caliper Mounting Bolt Torque

18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

11. Install wheel and wheel nuts and tighten evenly in

a cross pattern to specified torque.

Flange Nuts:

Flat side against

wheel

Front Wheel Nut Torque

20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm)

Hub

Brake Disc

Spindle

Strut Housing

Seal

Bearing

Wheel Nut

Spacer

Washer

(domed side out)

Nut

40 ft. lbs.

(55.3 Nm)

Cotter Pin

O-Ring

Hub Cap

18 ft. lbs. (24.9 Nm)

Use new bolts with pre-applied

locking agent.

FINAL DRIVE

7.5

FRONT HUB EXPLODED VIEW

FINAL DRIVE

7.6

CONCENTRIC SWINGARM

REAR AXLE REMOVAL

1. Securely support rear of machine with rear wheels

off the floor. Remove rear wheels and hubs.

2. Remove drive chain.

3. Remove snap ring (A), lock sleeve (B) and foam

seal (C) from axle.

4. Remove sprocket hub nut (D).

5. Remove the two rear brake caliper bolts. Remove

the rear brake caliper.

Remove Rear Caliper

6. Support rear caliper with wire or a tie strap. Do not

hang caliper by brake line.

Support Caliper from Frame

7. Slide axle assembly out left side.

FINAL DRIVE

7.7

CONCENTRIC SWINGARM

REAR AXLE DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove rear axle. (See Page 7.6)

2. Remove snap ring, collar, and foam seal.

3. Remove nut, brake disc assembly, and stop ring.

Stop Ring

Disc Hub

Grooveinspline

Nut

Threads

Splines

CONCENTRIC SWINGARM

REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY

1. Installstopringingrooveonleftsideofaxle.

Stop Ring

Disc Hub

Grooveinspline

NOTE: Left side of axle is identified by the small

groove in the middle of the spline.

2. Install disc hub assembly on axle. Be sure hub

covers stop ring. Install disc in soft jawed vise.

Apply Never Seize to threads, install left axle nut

and tighten to 120 ft. lbs (166 Nm). Keep

tightening nut until flat aligns with flat on brake

hub.

Stop ring

Axle Nut (Disc Side) Torque:

120 ft. lbs. (166 Nm)

3. Lubricate spacer and new O-ring. Install on axle.

FINAL DRIVE

7.8

4. Install foam seal and axle nut lock sleeve with

taper toward nut. Install snap ring to retain the

lock sleeve.

Foam Seal

Lock Sleeve

(Tapered side toward nut)

Snap Ring

CONCENTRIC SWINGARM

REAR AXLE INSTALLATION

1. Install axle from left to right.

O--Ring on axle between

sprocket hub and bearing

2. Lubricate and install a new O-ring on right side of

axle. Slide new O-ring against RH axle bearing

seal. Apply grease to sealing area on inside of

sprocket hub and slide sprocket hub assembly

onto the axle. Seat the hub against O-ring and

bearing.

3. Apply Never Seize to threads of axle and install nut.

Tighten nut with wrench to approximately 8-10 ft.

lbs. (11-14 Nm). Align flat of nut with flat on hub.

Axle must rotate smoothly without binding. If axle

binds the nut is too tight. If axle movement (up and

down or side to side) is detected, axle is too loose.

Axle Nut (Sprocket Side) Torque:

8-10 ft. lbs. (11-14 Nm)

4. Install foam seal (C) and slide lock sleeve (B) onto

hub and install lock sleeve with taper inward.

Install snap ring (A).

5. Install brake caliper and drive chain. Adjust drive

chain (refer to Maintenance Chapter 2 for

procedure). Torque eccentric pinch bolts to 30 ft.

lbs. (41 Nm) on models without a trailer hitch, or

40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) on models with a trailer hitch.

Verify proper chain adjustment after torquing

eccentric.

6. Torque brake caliper mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs.

(25 Nm).

7. Apply Never Seize to axle splines and install rear

wheel hubs. Torque center hub nut to 80 ft. lbs.

(109 Nm) and install a new cotter pin. Torque

wheel nuts to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).

8. Lubricate eccentric housing through grease fitting

with Polaris Premium All Season Grease until

grease is purged on each side of eccentric.

FINAL DRIVE

7.9

CONCENTRIC SWINGARM REAR AXLE EXPLODED VIEW

Snap Ring

Lock Collar

Left Axle Nut (120 ft. lbs.)(163 Nm)

Brake Disc

Disc Hub

Stop Ring

Seal Sleeve

O-Ring

Seal Bearing

Bearing Race

Eccentric Housing

Grease Fitting

Axle

Bearing Race

Bearing Seal

O-Ring

Sprocket Hub

Foam Seal

Axle Nut

Lock Collar

Snap Ring

Caliper Mount, Upper

Caliper Mount, Lower

Caliper

Left side of axle identified

by groove in spline

10-12 ft.lbs. (14-17 Nm)

18 ft. lbs.

(25 Nm)

Torque: 80 ft. lbs.

(110 Nm)

Torque: 50 ft. lbs.

(69 Nm)

Foam Seal

FINAL DRIVE

7.10

CONCENTRIC SWINGARM

REAR HOUSING REMOVAL

1. Remove rear axle. (See Page 7.6)

2. Remove sprocket hub. Note sealing O-ring

between sprocket hub and bearing.

3. Remove brake caliper mounting bracket from the

rear housing.

Lower Mount

Bracket

Upper Mounting

Bracket

Brake Disc

Guard

Rear Housing

Mount Bolts

4. Remove brake caliper mount bushing from the

upper mounting bracket. NOTE: Flange inward

as shown.

Upper Mounting

Bracket

Rear Housing

Caliper Mount

Bushing

5. Remove the rear housing from the swingarm.

REAR HOUSING

DISASSEMBLY/BEARING

SERVICE

1. Remove seals from housing.

Seal Bearing

Bearing Race

Seal

2. Remove bearings.

3. Drive bearing race out from opposite sides.

4. Inspect housing for cracks or wear. Replace if

damaged.

REAR HOUSING

ASSEMBLY/BEARING

SERVICE

1. Drive in new bearing race with brass drift.

2. Lubricate and install new tapered bearings.

3. Lubricate and install new seals.

FINAL DRIVE

7.11

CONCENTRIC SWINGARM

REAR HOUSING

INSTALLATION

1. Place brake caliper pivot bushing on stud with

flange inward as shown.

Upper Mounting

Bracket

Rear Housing

Caliper Mount

Bushing

2. Loosely assemble upper and lower brake caliper

mount. Do not tighten at this time.

Lower Mount

Bracket

Upper Mounting

Bracket

Brake Disc

Guard

Rear Housing

Mount Bolts

3. Install rear axle. (See Page 7.8)

4. Fill housing with grease until grease purges from

both seals.

FINAL DRIVE

7.12

NOTES

TRANSMISSION

8.1

CHAPTER 8

TRANSMISSION SERVICE

Special Tools 8.2............................

Torque Specifications 8.2.....................

Transmission Remove/Install 8.2..............

Transmission Disassembly 8.2--8.5................

Transmission Assembly 8.6-8.7...................

Troubleshooting 8.7..........................

Transmission Exploded View 8.7--8.8..............

TRANSMISSION

8.2

SPECIAL TOOLS

PART NUMBER TOOL

DESCRIPTION

2871710 10” Center

Distance Tool

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Item Specification

Transmission Case

Bolts

12 ft. lbs. (16.6 Nm)

Bell Crank Nut 12 ft. lbs. (16.6 Nm)

Transmission Drain

Plug

14 ft. lbs. (19.3 Nm)

Transmission Mounting

Bolts

25 ft. lbs. (34.5 Nm)

Swing Arm Pivot Bolts

(Concentric Swingarm)

150 ft. lbs. (207.5 Nm)

LUBRICATION

Refer to maintenance section for transmission

lubricant type and capacity.

TRANSMISSION REMOVAL

1. Remove seat, cab and air box.

2. Remove right side heat and reservoir bracket.

3. Remove PVT outer cover, both drive and driven

clutch, and inner PVT cover (refer to Clutch

Chapter 6).

4. Remove rear PVT bracket.

5. Remove carburetor.

6. Disconnect harness from gear position switch.

7. Remove drive chain and sprocket.

8. Remove mounting bolts and brackets as shown.

9. Remove through-bolt from bottom of

transmission.

10. Remove transmission from right side of frame.

TRANSMISSION

INSTALLATION

1. Reverse removal steps to install transmission.

NOTE: Install the Center Distance Tool (PN 2871710)

on engine and transmission input shaft before

tightening transmission mounting bolts. Align

clutches as outlined in Clutch Chapter 6.

TRANSMISSION

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove gear position switch.

CAUTION:

If switch is not removed prior to disassembly, switch

damage will result.

2. Place bellcrank in neutral position.

3. Remove sprocket retaining clip and sprocket.

4. Remove the transmission cover bolts.

5. With a soft face hammer tap on the (3) cover

bosses and carefully remove the cover.

Remove Switch

Tap with soft

face hammer

(3 places)

6. Remove detent plug, washer, spring and shifting

bullet.

NOTE: Shifting bullet has a radiused end making it

directional.

TRANSMISSION

8.3

7. Using a wrench on the nut of the bellcrank, turn in

a clockwise direction to assist with removal of

shift assembly and drive gear.

8. Remove shift assembly and gear as an assembly.

NOTE: Direction of shift fork.

9. Inspect shift fork surface for wear or damage.

Replace if necessary.

10. Remove shift fork guide pin.

11. Mark orientation of bellcrank to the shift fork shaft.

12. Remove bellcrank. Use a small puller if

necessary.

TRANSMISSION

8.4

13. Remove snap ring and washer. Pull down and

rotate shift fork shaft back and forth to remove.

14. Inspect shift fork shaft O-ring. Replace if

necessary. Lubricate O-ring to ease in

reassembly and to protect O-ring during

assembly.

15. Remove input shaft bearing.

16. Inspect gears for galling and wear on teeth and

bearing surface. Replace if necessary.

17. Remove bearing from other end of input shaft.

Remove two snap rings and gear.

TRANSMISSION

8.5

18. Inspect gear bushing. Replace if half of teflon

surface is gone.

19. Inspect output shaft gear, sprocket and bearing.

Replace if necessary.

Output Shaft

Gear

Sprocket

Bearing

20. Stretch chain tight on a flat surface and measure

the length of 8 pitches in a minimum of three

places on chain. Replace chain if measurement

is longer than 3.0904I.

Chain Stretch Limit

8 pitch length = 3.0904IMaximum

Measure

8 pitches

TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY

1. Assemble input shaft assembly.

NOTE: Install bearings with numbers and letters

facing out so they can be read after assembly.

Sprocket cogs face the dog gear.

NOTE: Input gear cogs face inward on input shaft.

Input Shaft

Bushing

Sprocket

Dog Gear

Input Gear

Thrust Washer

2. Assemble output shaft with sprocket, gear and

bearing if they were disassembled.

3. Assemble output shaft assembly with chain to the

input shaft assembly.

4. Install shift shaft, driven sprocket and gear into

the case.

TRANSMISSION

8.6

5. Install shift fork.

6. Insert fork guide pin.

7. Prior to reinstalling the cover make sure the

mating cover surfaces are clean and dry. Apply

Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557) to mating

surfaces.

8. Reinstall cover and torque bolts in a criss-cross

pattern in 3 steps to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

9. Install drain plug with a new sealing washer.

Torquedrainplugto14ft.lbs.(19Nm).

10. Insert shifting bullet with tip in position as shown.

Insert spring and plug. Torque plug to 14 ft. lbs.

(19 Nm).

11. Install transmission and add Polaris Premium

Synthetic Gear Case Lubricant (PN 2871477)in

the recommended amount. Refer to Maintenance

Chapter 2.

12. Install gear indicator switch. Apply Loctitet242

(PN 2871949) to threads of switch screws and

torque to 13-16 in. lbs. (1.5-1.9 Nm).

TRANSMISSION

8.7

TROUBLESHOOTING

CHECKLIST

Check the following items when shifting difficulty is

encountered.

SIdle speed adjustment

STransmission oil type/quality

STransmission torque stop

adjustment

SDrive belt deflection

SLoose fasteners on rod ends

SLoose fasteners on shifter

SWorn rod ends, clevis pins, or pivot

arm bushings

SLinkage rod adjustment and rod end

positioning

S*Worn, broken or damaged internal

transmission components

*NOTE: To determine if shifting difficulty or problem

is caused by an internal transmission problem, isolate

the transmission by disconnecting linkage rods from

transmission bellcranks. Manually select each gear

range at the transmission bellcrank, and test ride

vehicle. If it functions properly, the problem is outside

the transmission.

If transmission problem remains, disassemble

transmission and inspect all gear dogs for wear

(rounding), damage. Inspect all bearings for wear.

TRANSMISSION EXPLODED VIEW

NOTE: See next page for exploded view of transmission.

Ref. Qty Description Ref.Qty Description

1Asm., Gearcase 24. 1Washer

1. 2Bearing 25. 1 Plug, Detent, Extension

2. 1Ring, Retaining 26. 1Dipstick

3. 1Washer, Thrust 27. 2 Seal

4. 1 Sprocket, 19T 28. 1 Tube, Vent

5. 1Washer, Thrust 29. 1 Gearcase, RH

6. 1Dog, Engagement, High/Reverse 30. 2Pipe, Knock

7. 1Shaft, Input 31. 1 Shaft, Shift

8. 1Gear, 21T 32. 2 Fork, Shift

9. 1Bushing 33. 1 Gearcase, LH

10. 1Washer 34. 1 Decal, Switch

11. 2Snap Ring 35. 9 Screw

12. 2 Bearing 36. 1 Screw

13. 1Nut, FLEXLOC 37. 1 Nut

14. 1Washer 38. 1 Plug, Torque Stop

15. 1Bellcrank, HLR 39. 1 Bushing, Pivot

16. 1Ring, Retaining 40. 1 Washer

17. 1Washer 41. 1 Chain, Silent, 60P, 11W

18. 1O--Ring 42. 1 Sprocket, 51T

19. 1Shaft, Shift 43. 1Shaft, Output

20. 1Switch 44. 1 Gear, 64T

21. 4Screw

22. 1Bullet, Shifting

23. 1Spring, Compression

123456

910 11 12

31 32 33 34 35

41 42

TRANSMISSION

8.8

TRANSMISSION EXPLODED VIEW

BRAKES

9.1

CHAPTER 9

BRAKES

Specifications/Torques 9.2..............

Special Tools 9.3......................

Brake System Service Notes 9.3........

Brake Noise Troubleshooting 9.3........

Hydraulic Brake System Operation 9.4...

Brake System Main Components 9.5.....

Dual Hydraulic Caliper Bleeding 9.5......

Fluid Replacement/Bleeding Procedure 9.6-9.7

Master Cylinder Disassembly 9.7........

Master Cylinder Installation 9.8..........

Front Pad Removal 9.9--9.10.................

Front Pad Assembly 9.10-9.11................

Front Disc Inspection 9.11...............

Front Disc Removal/Replacement 9.11-9.12....

Front Caliper Removal 9.12..............

Front Caliper Disassembly 9.12-9.13..........

Front Caliper Inspection 9.13-9.14.............

Front Caliper Assembly 9.14.............

Front Caliper Installation 9.15............

Front Caliper Exploded View 9.16.........

Rear Pad Removal 9.17.................

Rear Pad Installation 9.17-9.18...............

Rear Caliper Removal/Inspection 9.18-9.19.....

Rear Caliper Assembly 9.19-9.20.............

Rear Disc Inspection 9.20...............

Troubleshooting 9.21....................

Rear Caliper Exploded View 9.22.........

BRAKES

9.2

SPECIFICATIONS

Front Brake Caliper

Item Standard Service Limit

Brake Pad Thickness .298 ±.0073²/7.56±.185 mm .150²/3.81mm

Brake Disc Thickness .150-.165²/ 3.810-4.191 mm .140²/ 3.556 mm

Brake Disc Thickness Variance Between

Measurements

-.002²/ .051 mm

Brake Disc Runout -.020²/.50mm

Rear Brake Caliper

Item Standard Service Limit

Brake Pad Thickness .270 ±.005²/6.85±.127 mm .150²/3.81mm

Brake Disc Thickness .177--.188²/ 4.49--4.77 mm .167²/ 4.242 mm

Brake Disc Thickness Variance Between

Measurements

-.002²/ .051 mm

Brake Disc Runout -.010²/.25mm

Master Cylinder I.D. .750²

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Item Torque

(ft. lbs. except where noted*)

Torque

(Nm)

Front Caliper Mounting Bolts 18.0 25

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts 28 38

Master Cylinder Mounting Bolts *25 in. lbs. 3.0

Master Cylinder Reservoir

Cover Bolt

*5 in. lbs. .56

Brake Line Banjo Bolt 15.0 21

Front Brake Disc 18.0 25

Front Wheel Mounting Nuts 20.0 28

NOTE: Refer to the tightening procedures in this chapter when torquing the bolts. Some special procedures are

used when torquing certain bolts and fasteners.

BRAKES

9.3

SPECIAL TOOLS

PART NUMBER TOOL

DESCRIPTION

2870975 Mity Vac

Pressure Test Tool

BRAKE SYSTEM SERVICE

NOTES

Disc brake systems are light weight, low

maintenance, and perform well in the conditions ATVs

routinely encounter. There are a few things to

remember when replacing disc brake pads or

performing brake system service to ensure proper

system function and maximum pad service life.

GOptional pads are available to suit

conditions in your area. Select a pad to fit

riding style and environment.

GDo not over-fill the master cylinder fluid

reservoirs.

GMake sure the brake levers return freely

and completely.

GAdjust stop pin on front caliper after pad

service.

GCheck and adjust master cylinder

reservoir fluid levels after pad service.

GMake sure atmospheric vent on reservoirs

are unobstructed.

GTest for brake drag after any brake system

service and investigate cause if brake

drag is evident.

GMake sure caliper moves freely on guide

pins.

GInspect caliper piston seals for foreign

material that could prevent caliper pistons

from returning freely.

GPerform a brake burnishing procedure

after installing new pads to maximize

service life.

BRAKE NOISE

TROUBLESHOOTING

NOTE: 2003 Model Trailblazer ATVs are equipped

with anti--squeek brake pads, but in some extreme

cases brake noise may occur.

Dirt or dust buildup on the brake pads and disc is the

most common cause of brake noise (squeal caused by

vibration). If cleaning does not reduce the occurrence

of brake noise, PermatextDisc Brake Quiet (PN

2872113) can be applied to the back of the pads. Follow

directions on the package. This will keep pads in

contact with caliper piston(s) to reduce the chance of

squeaks caused by dirt or dust. See table below.

Brake Noise Troubleshooting

Possible Cause Remedy

Dirt, dust, or imbedded material on pads or disc Spray disc and pads with a non-flammable aerosol

brake cleaner. Remove pads and/or disc hub to clean

imbedded material from disc or pads.

Pad(s) dragging on disc (noise or premature pad wear)

Improper adjustment

Insufficient lever or pedal clearance

Master cylinder reservoir overfilled

Master cylinder compensating port restricted

Master cylinder piston not returning completely

Caliper piston(s) not returning

Operator error (riding the brake / park brake

applied)

Adjust pad stop (front calipers)

Check position of controls & switches.

Set to proper level

Clean compensating port

Inspect. Repair as necessary

Clean piston(s) seal

Educate operator

Loose wheel hub or bearings Check wheel and hub for abnormal movement.

Brake disc warped or excessively worn Replace disc

Brake disc misaligned or loose Inspect and repair as necessary

Noise is from other source (chain, axle, hub, disc or

wheel)

If noise does not change when brake is applied check

other sources. Inspect and repair as necessary

Wrong pad for conditions Change to a softer or harder pad

BRAKES

9.4

HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM OPERATION

Must be clear to allow

proper diaphragm

movement

Compensating port compensates

for temperature changes by allowing

fluid back to master cylinder

Moveable

Brake Pad G

Typical Hydraulic Brake System

The Polaris brake system consists of the following components or assemblies: brake lever; master cylinder;

hydraulic hose; brake calipers (slave cylinder); brake pads; and brake discs, which are secured to the drive line.

When the hand activated brake lever (A) is applied it contacts a piston (B) within the master cylinder. As the

master cylinder piston moves inward it closes a small opening (compensating port) (C) within the cylinder and

starts to build pressure within the brake system. As the pressure within the system is increased, the piston (D)

located in the brake caliper moves outward and applies pressure to the moveable brake pad. This pad contacts

the brake disc and moves the caliper in its floating bracket, pulling the stationary side pad into the brake disc.

The resulting friction reduces brake disc and vehicle speed. As the lever pressure is increased, the braking affect

is also increased.

The friction applied to the brake pads will cause the pads to wear. As these pads wear, the piston within the caliper

moves further outward and becomes self adjusting. Fluid from the reservoir fills the additional area created when

the caliper piston moves outward.

Brake fluid level is critical to proper system operation. Too little fluid will allow air to enter the system and cause

the brakes to feel spongy. Too much fluid could cause brakes to drag due to fluid expansion.

Located within the master cylinder is the compensating port (C) which is opened and closed by the master cylinder

piston assembly. The port is open when the lever is released and the master cylinder piston is outward. As the

temperature within the hydraulic system changes, this port compensates for fluid expansion (heated fluid) or

contraction (cooled fluid). During system service, be sure this port is open. Due to the high temperatures created

within the system during heavy braking, it is very important that the master cylinder reservoir have adequate space

to allow for fluid expansion. Never overfill the reservoir! Fill to 1/4²-5/16²(.64 - .80 cm) from top of the cylinder.

This system also incorporates a diaphragm (E) as part of the cover gasket; and a vent port (F) located between

the gasket and the cover. The combination diaphragm and vent allow for the air above the fluid to equalize

pressure as the fluid expands or contracts. Make sure the vent is open and allowed to function. If the reservoir

is over filled or the diaphragm vent is plugged the expanding fluid may build pressure in the brake system leading

to brake failure.

When servicing Polaris ATV brake systems use only Polaris DOT 3 High Temperature Brake Fluid (PN 2870990).

Polaris brake fluid is sold in 5.5 oz. bottles. WARNING: Once a bottle is opened, use what is necessary and

discard the rest in accordance with local laws. Do not store or use a partial bottle of brake fluid. Brake fluid is

hygroscopic, meaning it rapidly absorbs moisture. This causes the boiling temperature of the brake fluid to drop,

which can lead to early brake fade and the possibility of serious injury.

BRAKES

9.5

BRAKE SYSTEM MAIN COMPONENTS

MASTER CYLINDER

CROSS FITTING

BRAKE SWITCH

RIGHT BRAKE

LEFT BRAKE

CALIPER

TOP VIEW

REAR BRAKE

RESERVOIR

REAR BRAKE

CALIPER

DUAL HYDRAULIC CALIPER

BLEEDING

Hand

Brake Line

Foot

Brake Line

Hand Brake Bleed

Fitting

Foot Brake

Bleed Screw

DH CALIPER TOP VIEW

Piston

Seals

Sealing “O” Rings

Pad

Spacer

This caliper is a stepped piston design, with two

independent hydraulic systems contained in the same

caliper body. The caliper piston is T-shaped, which

allows both left and right hand brake to use the same

caliper piston, but remain separated by seals. The left

hand brake system applies hydraulic pressure to both

front calipers and only the outer diameter of the rear

caliper piston. The right hand brake applies pressure

to the inner portion of the rear caliper piston. Because

the left and right hand brake hydraulic systems are

separate, there are also two bleed screws -- one for

the outer fluid chamber (left hand brake), and one for

the inner fluid chamber (right hand brake). The basic

procedure for bleeding the brake system is the same

as outlined on Page 9.6 - 9.7; however, each system

must be bled separately.

Inner Bleed Screw

Hand Brake

Outer Bleed Screw

Auxiliary Brake

BRAKES

9.6

-- The upper most (inner) bleed screw and brake line (A)

is for the left hand brake system.

-- The lower (outer) bleed screw and brake line (B) is

for the auxiliary brake system.

FLUID

REPLACEMENT/BLEEDING

PROCEDURE

NOTE: When bleeding the brakes or replacing the

fluid always start with the caliper farthest from the

master cylinder.

CAUTION:

Always wear safety glasses.

CAUTION:

Brake fluid will damage finished surfaces. Do not

allow brake fluid to come in contact with finished

surfaces.

BRAKE BLEEDING - FLUID

CHANGE

NOTE: This procedure should be used to change

fluid or bleed brakes during regular maintenance.

1. Clean reservoir cover thoroughly.

2. Remove screws, cover, and diaphragm (C) from

reservoir.

3. Inspect vent slots (A) in cover and remove any

debris or blockage.

4. If changing fluid, remove old fluid from reservoir

with a Mity Vact(PN 2870975)orsimilartool.

NOTE: Do not remove brake lever when reservoir

fluid level is low.

MAX

5. Add brake fluid to the upper level mark on

reservoir.

Polaris DOT 3 Brake Fluid

(PN 2870990)

Hand brake bleeder screw

Auxiliary brake bleeder screw

Hand Brake Line

Aux. Brake

Line

Forward

DH Caliper

6. Begin bleeding procedure with the caliper that is

farthest from the master cylinder. Install a box

end wrench on caliper bleeder screw. Attach a

clean, clear hose to fitting and place the other end

in a clean container. Be sure the hose fits tightly

on fitting.

NOTE: Fluid may be forced from compensation port

(B) when brake lever is pumped. Place diaphragm (C)

in reservoir to prevent spills. Do not install cover.

Refer to Illustration on page 9.4.

7. Slowly pump brake lever (D) until pressure builds

and holds.

8. While maintaining lever pressure, open bleeder

screw. Close bleeder screw and release brake

lever. NOTE: Do not release lever before bleeder

screw is tight or air may be drawn into caliper.

BRAKES

9.7

9. Repeat procedure until clean fluid appears in

bleeder hose and all air has been purged. Add

fluid as necessary to maintain level in reservoir.

CAUTION:

Maintain at least 1/2²(1.27 cm) of brake fluid in the

reservoir to prevent air from entering the master

cylinder.

10. Tighten bleeder screw securely and remove

bleeder hose.

11. Repeat procedure Steps 5-9 for the remaining

caliper(s).

12. Add brake fluid to the proper level.

Master Cylinder Fluid Level:

MAX level inside reservoir

Sight glass must look dark, if sight

glass is clear, fluid level is too low

13. Install diaphragm, cover, and screws. Torque the

screws to 5 in.lbs. (0.56 Nm).

Reservoir Cover Torque -

5 in. lbs. (0.56 Nm)

14. Field test machine at low speed before putting

into service. Check for proper braking action and

lever reserve. With lever firmly applied, lever

reserve should be no less than 1/2²(1.3 cm) from

handlebar.

15. Check brake system for fluid leaks and inspect all

hoses and lines for wear or abrasion. Replace

hose if wear or abrasion is found.

MASTER CYLINDER

DISASSEMBLY

1. Clean master cylinder and reservoir assembly.

Make sure you have a clean work area to

disassemble brake components.

2. Place a shop towel under brake line connection at

master cylinder. Loosen banjo bolt; remove bolt

and sealing washers.

CAUTION:

Brake fluid will damage finished surfaces. Do not

allow brake fluid to come in contact with finished

surfaces.

BRAKES

9.8

3. Remove master cylinder from handlebars.

Banjo Bolt

Master Cylinder

Piston Assy

Cover

Diaphragm

Sight Glass

Brake Lines

Master Cylinder Assembly

MASTER CYLINDER

INSTALLATION

Master cylinders are not rebuildable. The

complete master cylinder must be replaced.

When replacing the brake master cylinder assembly,

use the correct assembly. There are different brake

master cylinders for the different Polaris ATV models.

Refer to your parts manual or guide for the correct

parts.

1. Install master cylinder on handlebars. Torque

mounting bolts to 25 in. lbs. (3 Nm). Torque the

inside bolt first as indicated in the illustration.

25 in. lbs. (3 Nm)

Torque Outer Bolt First

5in.lbs.

(0.56 Nm)

NOTE: To speed up the brake bleeding procedure the

master cylinder can be purged of air before brake line

is attached. Fill with DOT3 Brake Fluid (PN 2870990)

and pump lever slowly two to three times with finger

over the outlet end to purge master cylinder of air.

2. Place new sealing washers on each side of banjo

line.

Brake Line

Banjo Bolt

Sealing Washers

Torque to 15 ft.lbs.

(21 Nm)

Master Cylinder Mounting Bolt

Torque 25 in. lbs. (3 Nm)

Brake Line Banjo Bolt Torque

15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

3. Install brake line on master cylinder hand tight.

4. Fill reservoir with DOT3 Brake Fluid (PN

2870990).

BRAKES

9.9

Polaris DOT 3 Brake Fluid

(PN 2870990)

5. Follow bleeding procedure on Pages 9.6-9.7.

Check all connections for leaks and repair if

necessary.

FRONT PAD REMOVAL

1. Elevate and support front of machine.

CAUTION:

Use care when supporting vehicle so that it does

not tip or fall. Severe injury may occur if machine

tips or falls.

2. Remove the front wheel. Loosen pad adjuster

screw 2-3 turns.

3. Remove caliper from mounting bracket.

4. Push caliper piston into caliper bore slowly using

a C-clamp or locking pliers with pads installed.

NOTE: Brake fluid will be forced through

compensating port into master cylinder fluid reservoir

when piston is pushed back into caliper. Remove

excess fluid from reservoir as required.

5. Push mounting bracket inward and slip outer

brake pad past edge. Remove inner pad.

BRAKES

9.10

6. Measure the thickness of the pad material.

Replace pads if worn beyond the service limit.

Measure

Thickness

Front Brake Pad Thickness

New .298²/7.6 mm

Service Limit .180²/4.0mm

FRONT PAD ASSEMBLY

1. Lubricate mounting bracket pins with a light film of

Polaris Premium All Season Grease, and install

rubber dust boots.

Polaris Premium All Season Grease

(PN 2871423)

2. Compress mounting bracket and make sure dust

boots are fully seated. Install pads with friction

material facing each other. Be sure pads and disc

are free of dirt or grease.

3. Install caliper on hub strut, and torque mounting

bolts.

18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Front Caliper Mounting Bolts

Torque: 18 ft. lbs. (25Nm)

4. Slowly pump the brake lever until pressure has

been built up. Maintain at least 1/2²(12.7 mm) of

brake fluid in the reservoir to prevent air from

entering the brake system.

BRAKES

9.11

5. Install the adjuster screw and turn clockwise until

stationary pad contacts disc, then back off 1/2

turn (counterclockwise).

6. Verify fluid level in reservoir is up to MAX line

inside reservoir and install reservoir cap.

Master Cylinder Fluid

Up to MAX line inside reservoir

7. Install wheels and torque wheel nuts.

Front Wheel Nut Torque

20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm)

BRAKE BURNISHING

PROCEDURE

It is required that a burnishing procedure be

performed after installation of new brake pads to

extend service life and reduce noise.

Start machine and slowly increase speed to 30 mph.

Gradually apply brakes to stop machine. Allow pads

and disc to cool sufficiently during the procedure. Do

not allow pads or disc to become hot or warpage may

result. Repeat this procedure 10 times.

FRONT DISC INSPECTION

1. Visually inspect the brake disc for nicks,

scratches, or damage.

2. Measure the disc thickness at eight different

points around the pad contact surface using a

0-1²micrometer. Replace disc if worn beyond

service limit.

Brake Disc Thickness

Service Limit .140²/ 3.556 mm

New .150--.165²(3.81--4.19 mm)

Brake Disc Thickness Variance

Service Limit: .002²(.051 mm)

difference between measurements.

3. Mount dial indicator as shown to measure disc

runout. Slowly rotate the disc and read total

runout on the dial indicator. Replace the disc if

runout exceeds specifications.

Brake Disc Runout

Service Limit .010²(.50 mm)

FRONT BRAKE DISC

REMOVAL / REPLACEMENT

NOTE: To reduce the possibility of warpage, try

removing the brake disc mounting bolts before

applying heat to the bolts.

BRAKES

9.12

1. Apply heat to the hub in the area of the brake disc

mounting bolts to soften the bolt locking agent.

18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

new bolts have

pre-applied

locking agent.

2. Remove bolts and disc.

3. Clean mating surface of disc and hub.

4. Install disc on hub.

5. Install new bolts and tighten to specified torque.

Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolt Torque

18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

CAUTION: Always use new brake disc mounting

bolts. The bolts have a pre-applied locking agent

which is destroyed upon removal.

FRONT CALIPER REMOVAL

CAUTION:

Use care when supporting vehicle so that it does

not tip or fall. Severe injury may occur if machine

tips or falls.

1. Remove brake pads. See Page 9.9.

2. Using a line wrench, loosen and remove brake

line to caliper. Place a container under caliper to

catch fluid draining from brake line.

3. Remove brake caliper and drain fluid into

container. Do not reuse brake fluid.

FRONT CALIPER

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove brake pad adjuster screw.

2. Push upper pad retainer pin inward and slip brake

pads past edge.

BRAKES

9.13

3. Remove mounting bracket, pin assembly and

dust boot.

Remove

Mounting Bracket

4. Remove piston, dust seal and piston seal.

5. Clean the caliper body, piston, and retaining

bracket with brake cleaner or alcohol.

NOTE: Be sure to clean seal grooves in caliper body.

Clean Components

FRONT CALIPER

INSPECTION

1. Inspect caliper body for nicks, scratches or wear.

Measure bore size and compare to specifications.

Replace if damage is evident or if worn beyond

service limit.

Front Caliper Piston Bore I.D.

Std. 1.191-1.192²(30.25-30.28 mm)

Service Limit 1.193²(30.30 mm)

2. Inspect piston for nicks, scratches, wear or

damage. Measure diameter and replace if

damaged or worn beyond service limit.

BRAKES

9.14

3. Inspect the brake disc and pads as outlined for

brake pad replacement this section. See Pages

9.10--9.11.

FRONT CALIPER REASSEMBLY

1. Install new O-rings (A) in the caliper body (B). Be

sure groove is clean and free of residue or brakes

may drag upon assembly.

2. Coat piston with clean Polaris DOT 3 Brake Fluid

(C). Install piston (D) with a twisting motion while

pushing inward. Piston should slide in and out of

bore smoothly, with light resistance.

3. Lubricate the mounting bracket pins with Polaris

Premium All Season Grease, and install the

rubber dust seal boots.

Polaris Premium All Season Grease

(PN 2871423)

4. Compress the mounting bracket and make sure

the dust seals are fully seated. Install the pads as

shown on Page 9.10. Clean the disc and pads

with brake parts cleaner or denatured alcohol to

remove any dirt, oil or grease.

BRAKES

9.15

FRONT CALIPER

INSTALLATION

1. Install caliper on hub strut, and torque mounting

bolts.

18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Front Caliper Mounting Bolt Torque

18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

2. Install brake line and tighten securely with a line

wrench.

3. Install the adjuster screw and turn until stationary

pad contacts disc, then back off 1/2 turn.

4. Follow brake bleeding procedure outlined on

Pages 9.6-9.7.

5. Install wheels and torque wheel nuts to

specification.

Front Wheel Nut Torque

20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).

BRAKES

9.16

FRONT BRAKE CALIPER

EXPLODED VIEW

Caliper Mount

Piston

Bushing Boot

Square

O--Rings

Socket Set Screw

Boot Bushing

Brake Pads

Caliper Assembly

Bleeder Screw

35--60 IN. LBS.

(4--6.5 NM)

APPLY POLARIS ALL

PURPOSE GREASE

APPLY POLARIS DOT 3 BRAKE

FLUID TO COMPONENT

BRAKES

9.17

REAR BRAKE PAD REMOVAL

1. Remove caliper mounting bolts and lift caliper off

of disc.

Support Caliper from Frame

NOTE: When removing caliper, be careful not to

damage brake line. Support caliper so as not to kink

or bend brake line.

2. With pads installed, push the caliper pistons into

their bores .

NOTE: Brake fluid will be forced through

compensating port into master cylinder fluid reservoir

when piston is pushed back into caliper. Remove

excess fluid from reservoir as required.

Spacer

Retaining Pin

3. Remove brake pad retaining pin, and pad spacer.

NOTE: This is a spring pin, do not spread apart

farther than necessary to remove it.

4. Measure the thickness of the pad material.

Replace pads if worn beyond the service limit.

Measure

Thickness

Rear Brake Pad Thickness

New .298 ±.005²(6.85 .127 mm 0

Service Limit .150²(3.81 mm)

REAR BRAKE PAD

INSTALLATION

Spacer

Retaining Pin

1. Install new pads in caliper body. Be sure to put

aluminum spacer between pads. Install retainer.

2. Torque mounting bolts to specified torque.

DH Brake Caliper Mounting

Bolts Torque:

28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm)

3. Slowly pump the brake levers until pressure has

been built up. Maintain at least 1/2²(12.7 mm) of

brake fluid in the reservoir to prevent air from

entering the master cylinder.

BRAKES

9.18

Auxiliary Brake Master Cylinder

Fluid Level

Between MIN and MAX lines

4. It is recommended that a burnishing procedure be

performed after installation of new brake pads to

extend service life and reduce noise. Start

machine and slowly increase speed to 30 mph.

Gradually apply brakes to stop machine. Repeat

procedure 10 times.

REAR CALIPER

REMOVAL/INSPECTION

1. Clean caliper area before removal.

Remove inner

and outer

brake lines

2. Using a wrench, remove left hand brake (outer)

and right hand brake (inner) lines. Place a

container to catch brake fluid draining from brake

lines.

3. Remove the caliper and pads from the caliper.

Spacer

Retaining Pin

4. Remove Allen head screw and separate caliper

halves and remove pistons with piston pliers.

5. Remove O-rings and clean O-ring grooves.

6. Clean disc, caliper body, and pistons with brake

cleaner or alcohol.

7. Remove square-rings. Clean square-ring grooves.

8. Clean disc, caliper body, and piston with brake

cleaner or alcohol.

9. Inspect caliper piston bores for scratches, severe

corrosion, or galling and replace if necessary.

BRAKES

9.19

10. Inspect surface of caliper piston for nicks,

scratches, or damage and replace if necessary.

REAR CALIPER ASSEMBLY

O-Rings

Piston Seals

1. Install new square-rings on piston. Be sure

square-ring grooves are thoroughly cleaned of all

residue, or piston may bind in bore. Apply brake

fluid to piston and install carefully with a twisting

motion to ease assembly. Install dust seal on

piston before fully seating piston.

2. Install new O-rings in caliper halves.

3. Carefully assemble caliper body, making sure

O-rings are properly positioned in groove. Apply

LocTitet242 (PN 2871949) to the allen head

screw and torque body screw evenly to 18 ft. lbs.

(25 Nm).

Caliper Halves Bolt Torque:

18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

4. Install brake pads in caliper body with friction

material facing each other. If equipped with a pad

spacer, install the spacer between the pads.

Install retaining pin through outer pad, pad spacer

and inner pad.

5. Install caliper and torque mounting bolts.

28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm)

Caliper Mounting Bolt Torque

28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm)

BRAKES

9.20

6. Install brake lines and tighten to specified torque.

Hand Brake Line

Auxiliary Brake

Line

Banjo Bolt Torque

15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)

7. Follow bleeding procedure outlined on Pages

9.6--9.7 of this section and refer to system

overview and illustration on Page 9.5.

8. Field test unit for proper braking action before

putting into service. Inspect for fluid leaks and

firm brakes. Make sure the brake is not dragging

when lever is released. If the brake drags,

re-check assembly and installation.

REAR BRAKE DISC

INSPECTION

1. Visually inspect disc for scoring, scratches, or

gouges. Replace the disc if any deep scratches

are evident.

Measure

Thickness

Rear Brake

Disc

2. Usea0-1²micrometer and measure disc

thickness at 8 different points around perimeter of

disc. Replace disc if worn beyond service limit.

Brake Disc Thickness

Service Limit .167²(4.242 mm)

New .177-.188²(4.496-4.750 mm)

Brake Disc Thickness Variance

Service Limit 002²(.051 mm)

difference between measurements

3. Mount dial indicator and measure disc runout.

Replace the disc if runout exceeds specifications.

Brake Disc Runout

Service Limit .010²(.25 mm)

BRAKES

9.21

TROUBLESHOOTING

Brakes Squeal

GDirty/contaminated friction pads

GImproper alignment

GWorn disc

GWorn disc splines

Poor Brake Performance

GAir in system

GWater in system (brake fluid

contaminated)

GCaliper/disc misaligned

GCaliper dirty or damaged

GBrake line damaged or lining

ruptured

GWorn disc and/or friction pads

GIncorrectly adjusted lever

GIncorrectly adjusted stationary pad

GWorn or damaged master cylinder or

components

GImproper clearance between lever

and switch

Lever Vibration

GDisc damaged

GDisc worn (runout or thickness

variance exceeds service limit)

GCaliper Overheats (Brakes Drag)

GCompensating port plugged

GPad clearance set incorrectly

GAuxiliary brake pedal incorrectly

adjusted

GBrake lever or pedal binding or

unable to return fully

GParking brake left on

GResidue build up under caliper seals

GOperator riding brakes

Brakes Lock

GAlignment of caliper to disc.

BRAKES

9.22

DH (REAR AXLE MOUNTED) CALIPER/MASTER CYLINDER

Spacer

Torque

28 ft. lbs.

(38 Nm)

Caliper

Auxiliary

Brake Pads

Hand Brake Line

Auxiliary Brake Line

Auxiliary

Brake Bleed

Hand Brake

Bleed

Torque

15 ft. lbs.

(20.7 Nm)

Torque

18 ft. lbs.

(24.8 Nm)

To r si o n

Spring

Auxiliary Brake

Reservoir

Auxiliary Brake

Master Cylinder

Torque

8 ft. lbs.

(11 Nm)

15 ft. lbs.

(20 Nm)

ELECTRICAL

10.1

CHAPTER 10

ELECTRICAL

Special Tools and Electrical Service Notes 10.2.....

Timing Check Procedure 10.2.....................

Transmission Gear Position Switch Testing 10.3.....

Speed Limiter System/Troubleshooting 10.3-10.5........

Oil Cooler Fan Circuit Operation 10.6..............

Thermistor / Fan Control Testing 10.6..............

Fan Motor Current Draw Test 10.6.................

Electronic Throttle Control System Operation 10.7...

Flywheel Identification -- DC/CDI Operation 10.8.....

ES32PF 200 Watt Alternator, Exploded View 10.9....

Ignition System Testing 10.10......................

Ignition System Troubleshooting 10.11..............

Cranking Output Tests 10.11.......................

Charging System Testing 10.12-10.14.....................

Battery Service 10.14-10.17.............................

Headlight/Tail Light Service 10.18-10.19...................

Starter System Testing 10.20.......................

Starter System Troubleshooting 10.21...............

Starter Motor Service 10.21-10.23........................

Starter Drive 10.24................................

Wiring Diagram 10.25.............................

ELECTRICAL

10.2

SPECIAL TOOLS

PART NUMBER TOOL

DESCRIPTION

PV--43568 Fluke77 Digital

Multimeter

2870836 Battery

Hydrometer

2870630 Timing Light

8712100 or 8712500 Tachometer

ELECTRICAL SERVICE

NOTES

Keep the following notes in mind when diagnosing an

electrical problem.

GRefer to wiring diagram for stator and

electrical component resistance

specifications.

GWhen measuring resistance of a

component that has a low resistance

value (under10 Ohms), remember to

subtract meter lead resistance from

the reading. Connect the leads

together and record the resistance.

The resistance of the component is

equal to tested value minus the lead

resistance.

GBecome familiar with the operation of

your meter. Be sure leads are in the

proper jack for the test being

performed (i.e. 10A jack for current

readings). Refer to the Owner’s

manual included with your meter for

more information.

GVoltage, amperage, and resistance

values included in this manual are

obtained with a Fluket77 Digital

Multimeter (PV--43568).This

meter is acceptable for use when

diagnosing electrical problems.

Readings obtained with other

meters may differ.

GPay attention to the prefix on the

multimeter reading (K, M, etc.) and

the position of the decimal point.

GFor resistance readings, isolate the

component to be tested. Disconnect

it from the wiring harness or power

supply.

TIMING CHECK

PROCEDURES

1. The ignition timing check hole is in the starter

recoil/magneto housing. Remove the check plug.

NOTE: The ignition timing marks are stamped on the

outside of the flywheel. Ignition timing must be

inspected with the engine at room temperature (68°F

/20°C).

2. With the transmission in neutral, start the engine

and set engine speed to 5000 +/- 200 RPM.

3. Direct the timing light at the ignition timing check

hole and check the ignition timing. NOTE: Do not

allow the engine to warm up. The timing will retard

approximately 2°when the engine is warm.

Flywheel

Rotation 32

Timing

Pointer

30°±2°BTDC@5000RPM

Stator Adjustment

If the ignition timing is not within the specified range,

adjust the stator plate position as described below.

1. Remove the magneto housing.

2. Remove the flywheel.

3. Loosen the stator plate screws and adjust the

stator plate position. NOTE: Moving the stator

plate clockwise retards (delays) the ignition

timing. Moving the plate counterclockwise

advances it.

Advance

Retard

ELECTRICAL

10.3

GEAR POSITION INDICATOR

SWITCH TEST

Switch Continuity Table

High Range

Neutral

Reverse

DCB A

High/Neutral/Reverse Switch

H/N/RSwitch

GRN/

LIMITER SPECIFICATIONS

NOTE: The part number is printed on some late

model LR modules. Whenever possible, use part

number to identify the module. Modules may have

same “LR” I.D. number, with different part numbers,

terminals, and internal function.

Speed Limiter

Module LR

ID Number

Part number is printed

on module

LIMITER SPECIFICATIONS

(Refer to parts manual or microfiche for part num-

ber and application.)

PART NO. TYPE FUNCTION / LIMIT RPM

4010137 LR44-3 Reverse Limit - 3500

NOTES

ELECTRICAL

10.4

REVERSE LIMIT SYSTEM

RPM Signal Gray/Orange

Reverse Gear Signal

Y/R

Blk

Gry/Or

LR44--3

Gry/Or

Blk

Y/R

Engine Stop Signal

RPM Signal

Transmission

Switch

Reverse speed limit

module sends signal

(ground) to CDI to

eliminate spark at

3500 (approx.) in re-

verse.

Under Front cover

NO REVERSE SPEED LIMIT

(LR44--3 Limit Module)

REVERSE LAMP

ON?

APPLY PARKING BRAKE. START ENGINE.

SHIFT TO REVERSE GEAR

TEST GEAR POSITION INDICA-

TOR SWITCH AND INDICATOR

LAMP

3V-9V AC AT

IDLE?

NTEST WIRING

NTEST VOLTAGE REGULATOR AND

CHARGING SYSTEM

MEASURE DC VOLTS ON

GRY/OR WIRE. TO GROUND

AT LR MODULE

MEASURE AC VOLTS ON

Y/R WIRE. AT LR MODULE

TO GROUND

DISCONNECT BLACK

WIRE FROM LR MOD-

ULE AND CONNECT TO

GROUND.

ENGINE STOP?

NTEST WIRING / TEST CDI (BLACK

WIRE)

REPLACE LIMITER MODULE

12 VOLTS

DC?

ELECTRICAL

10.5

REVERSE SPEED LIMIT SYSTEM

ELECTRICAL

10.6

OIL COOLER FAN CONTROL

Battery Voltage

OIL COOLER FAN CIRCUIT

Hot light and fan “on” with leads connected

Electronic

Module

GThermistor resistance decreases as

temperature increases

GBoth fan and hot light should be on with

thermistor leads shorted together

(low resistance)

GFan blade should rotate drawing air in

through cooler (blowing on engine)

THERMISTOR -- RESISTANCE VS.

TEMPERATURE

Tempera-

ture

Resist-

ance ±

20%

Fan ON/

OFF

Hot Light

ON/OFF

77°F(25°

100KWFan OFF

240°F

(116°C)

3.5KWFan OFF

260°F

(127°C)

2.5KWFan ON

290°F

(143°C)

1.6KWFan ON Hot Light

ON/OFF

THERMISTOR / FAN

CONTROL TEST

GTurn ON and engine stop switch to RUN.

GTest voltage on R/W wire to ground -

R/W wire should have 12 Volts DC

(battery voltage)

GShort thermistor leads together - fan

and hot light ON? (If not, test hot

light, fan motor and circuit)

GDisconnect thermistor wires and test the

resistance of the thermistor (refer to

temperature/resistance table).

Replace thermistor if out of specified

range.

GReplace the module and test system.

FAN MOTOR CURRENT

DRAW TEST

Connect ammeter leads

between exposed

Orange/Black terminals at

fan connection.

Connect only the Red/White

terminals at fan connection.

A current draw test will provide a good indication of fan

motor condition. A worn or damaged fan motor will

draw more current, which causes a reduction in blade

speed and reduced cooling.

1. Turn key to off.

2. Disconnect the thermistor.

3. Reconnect fan motor connector to place a DC

ammeter in series as shown in the Illustration.

4. Be sure fan blade is free to rotate.

5. Turn ignition key and engine stop switch to “ON”

position. Read the current draw on ammeter with

fan running.

6. If the fan motor draws more than 6.5 Amps,

replace the motor.

ELECTRICAL

10.7

ELECTRONIC THROTTLE

CONTROL (ETC) SWITCH

(COMPOSITE THROTTLE

HOUSING)

The Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) system is

designed to stop the engine of an ATV in the event of

a mechanical problem with the throttle mechanism.

The ETC switch is mounted independently of the

throttle actuator lever inside the throttle block

assembly. This is a normally closed switch, and is

held in the open position (contacts are separated as

shown in Illustration 1) by throttle cable tension. The

contacts are “open” in normal operation regardless of

throttle lever position. In the event of a mechanical

problem in the throttle mechanism (cable tension is

lost), the switch contacts close, connecting the CDI

black wire to ground, preventing ignition spark. This

is the same as turning the key or engine stop switch

“OFF”.

Test the ETC switch at the harness connector. NOTE:

Adjust throttle cable freeplay (ETC switch) and make

sure throttle mechanism is functioning properly before

testing the switch. Refer to Maintenance Chapter 2

for cable adjustment procedure.

ETC OPERATION TEST

1. Remove throttle block cover by carefully

releasing all tabs around edge of cover.

2. Place transmission in neutral and apply parking

brake.

3. Start engine and open throttle lever slightly until

engine RPM is just above idle speed.

4. Hold throttle cable with fingers at point “A” as

shown below and release throttle lever. If the

ETC system is functioning properly, the engine

will lose spark and stop.

Switch contacts are open

during normal operation

ETC switch contacts are

closed in fault condition

(throttle cable slack).

Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) Switch

(Composite Throttle Housing)

Brn

Blk

Brn

Illustration 1

ELECTRICAL

10.8

FLYWHEEL IDENTIFICATION

Flywheel Identification Stamp Location

The flywheel can be identified by the stamp mark in location A. Refer to “I.D.” location in chart below. Do not

use the cast mark to determine flywheel application.

2003 Engine Application Type Cast Stamp Comment I.D. Stamp

Magnum ES32PFE10 N/A N/A N/A 200W N/A

330 -- DC/CDI IGNITION

The Trail Boss 330 has incorporated into it’s design a

DC/CDI ignition system.

Some of the advantages of DC ignition are:

0Stronger, more consistent spark at low

rpm for better performance

0Easier starts

0Simpler component design for ease

trouble shooting and maintenence

Operation Overview:

The DC/CDI system relies on battery power for ignition.

Instead of generating DC voltage via magnetic

induction, a 12 volt DC current is supplied directly to the

CDI unit from the battery.

At the CDI, 12 volt DC current charges an internal

capacitor to build up the initial ignition charge. A small

A/C signal from the Trigger (Pulse) coil closes a

thyristor (located in the CDI) at a point

pre--determined in the crankshaft rotation by magnets

on the flywheel’s outer diameter. This signal releases

the electrical charge which saturates the coil for

ignition. DC/CDI systems have the ability to ignite

with as little as 6 volts of power.

Maximum Timing 330 Trail Boss

NOTE:

DC/CDI systems and compo-

nents are not interchangeable

with any other system.

ELECTRICAL

10.9

COMPONENTS OF ES32PF / 200 WATT ALTERNATOR

battery charge Coils

Flywheel and

Ring Gear Casting.

Refer to Page 10.8 for

identification.

Resistor

Cap

CDI Box

Stator Plate

Pulse Coil (Trigger)

Air Gap: .016-.030²

(.4-.75mm)

Meter

WIgnition Coil

Primary

Winding

.3 W

Ignition Kill

Wire

(Black)

Coil Lead

Secondary Coil

Check coil mount to verify

ground to engine (0-.2 )W

Refer To Wiring Diagrams For

Specified Stator Coil Resistance

Magnetic

Switch

Meter

10.5KW

Note: DC/CDI components are not compatible with any other type of ignition

12 Volt DC

Supply Wire

(Red)

520W

Meter

ELECTRICAL

10.10

IGNITION SYSTEM TESTING

Whenever troubleshooting an electrical problem you should first check all terminal connections to be sure they

are clean and tight. Also be sure that colors match when wires are connected. Use the following pages as a guide

for troubleshooting. The resistance values are also given on the specification pages.

Condition: No Spark or intermittent spark

Disconnect the black wire at the CDI module to

isolate the ignition from the kill system, but

verify the CDI has a good ground (brown) for

operation.

Does it have spark?

-Test the ignition switch, engine stop

switch, and speed limiter circuit for

shorts to ground.

-Check connectors for moisture,

wire color matching or corrosion.

Disconnect the pulse (trigger) coil connector from

the CDI module. Measure the resistance of the

trigger coil (520W). Refer to the exploded view on

Page 10.9 or the wiring schematic for meter con-

nections and specifications. Compare results to

the specifications on the exploded views.

Is it within specification?

Inspect connectors, wiring and

grounds to the component in ques-

tion. Replace the component if a

wiring problem cannot be found.

Yes

Check coil ground connection between engine and coil

mount using an ohmmeter. The coil mount should

have good continuity to ground on the engine (0-.2 W).

Verify 12 Volt DC power is present on the red wire to CDI. Replace Spark Plug.

Disconnect and check the secondary coil. Resis-

tance values should be:

Primary Side - Primary Wire Tab to Ground

(on coil mount or engine): .3 to .5 Ohms

Secondary Side High Tension Wire to engine

ground- Cap installed - 11,300W

Cap removed - 6300W

Are these values within specs?

Replace the ignition coil.

Yes

If all of the above tests are within specifications, and all grounds, connections, and wire color coding

have been inspected, perform voltage output tests on following page or replace the CDI module.

Clean coil mounting area.

Repair ground wire connections.

ELECTRICAL

10.11

IGNITION SYSTEM

TROUBLESHOOTING

No Spark, Weak or Intermittent Spark

0No12 volt power or ground to CDI

0Spark plug gap incorrect

0Fouled spark plug

0Faulty spark plug cap or poor

connection to high tension lead

0Related wiring loose, disconnected,

shorted, or corroded

0Engine Stop switch or ignition switch

faulty

0ETC switch misadjusted or faulty

0Poor ignition coil ground (e.g. coil

mount loose or corroded)

0Faulty stator (measure resistance of

all ignition related windings)

0Incorrect wiring (inspect color coding

in connectors etc)

0Faulty ignition coil winding (measure

resistance of primary and

secondary)

0Worn magneto (RH) end Crankshaft

bearings

0Sheared flywheel key

0Flywheel loose or damaged

0Excessive crankshaft runout on

magneto (RH) end - should not

exceed .005²

0Faulty CDI module

CRANKING OUTPUT TEST

WITH PEAK READING

VOLTMETER

The following peak voltage tests will measure the

amount of output directly from each component. A

peak reading voltmeter must be used to perform the

tests. A variety of peak reading adaptors are

commercially available for use with the FlukeZ77

Digital Multimeter (PV--43568), which will allow peak

voltage tests to be performed accurately. Follow the

directions provided with the adaptor. All

measurements are indicated in DC Volts. Readings

obtained without a peak reading adaptor will be

significantly different.

Test output from the CDI and pulse (trigger) coil and

compare to the table. The following measurements

are obtained when cranking the engine with the

electric starter, spark plug installed. The starter

system must be in good condition and the battery fully

charged.

200 Watt 4 Stroke DC/CDI Ignition

Test Connect

Meter Wires

To:

Reading

(Without Peak

Reading Volt

meter)

CDI Output Yellow Blue

and Ground

20 DCV

Pulse (Trigger) Yellow/Red

and

Yellow

3.3 DCV

CDI OUTPUT TEST USING

PEAK READING ADAPTOR

Re-connect all CDI wires to stator wires. Disconnect

CDI module wire from ignition coil primary terminal.

Connect one meter lead to engine ground and the

other to the ignition coil primary wire leading from the

CDI module. Set meter to read DC Volts. Crank

engine and check output of CDI wire to coil.

Reconnect CDI wire to coil.

Output w/ Peak output tester

130 DCV

Average Output w/ Digital Voltmeter

20 DCV

ELECTRICAL

10.12

CHARGING SYSTEM TESTING

Whenever charging system problems are suspected, proceed with the following system checks:

Check for owner modification, and

discuss operating habits. The battery

will continually discharge if operated

below the “Break Even” RPM. Con-

tinued problems would call for battery

inspection.

Disconnect the Yellow/Red, Yellow, and Yel-

low/Brn (if applicable) wires from the regula-

tor/rectifier. Using a multitester, perform an

Alternator Output (AC amp) test.See

test procedure on Page 10.13 for proce-

dure.

Is output above 5 amps?

Inspect the wiring harness be-

tween the panel and the stator for

damage. If no damage is found,

remove the recoil and flywheel.

Inspect the flywheel magnets, sta-

tor coils and stator wire harness

for damage. Repair or replace

any damaged components.

Reconnect the alternator wires. Note: Red

wire must be connected to harness. Battery

voltage must be present on red wire terminal

on harness side of voltage regulator connector.

Is it?

Check regulator/rectifier connections

and ground, battery connections, cir-

cuit breaker and connecting wires.

Repair or replace faulty wiring or

components.

If all of the previous tests indicate a

good condition, but the charging voltage

does not rise above battery voltage at the

connector or terminal board, replace the

voltage regulator.

Yes

Perform system “Break Even Amperage”

test outlined on Page 10.13.

Does charging occur as specified?

Using a multitester set on D.C. volts, mea-

sure the battery open circuit voltage (See

Page 10.15). It should be 12.4 volts or

more. Is it?

Remove the battery and properly ser-

vice. Reinstall the fully charged battery

or a fully charged shop battery.

With the transmission in neutral, start the

engine and increase RPM to between 3000

and 4000. Read battery voltage with the

multitester. Readings should be between

13.0 and 14.6 V D.C.

Are they?

Yes

Yes Check Key off Current Draw

Meter Setting: AC Amps

Meter Setting: DC Amps

Meter Setting: DC Volts

Yes

Refer to Page 10.13.

ELECTRICAL

10.13

CURRENT DRAW - KEY OFF

CAUTION: Do not connect or disconnect the battery

cable or ammeter with the engine running. Damage

will occur to light bulbs and speed limiter.

Connect an ammeter in series with the negative

battery cable. Check for current draw with the key off.

If the draw is excessive, loads should be

disconnected from the system one by one until the

draw is eliminated. Check component wiring as well

as the component for partial shorts to ground to

eliminate the draw.

Current Draw - Key Off:

Maximum of .02 DCA (20 mA)

CHARGING SYSTEM “BREAK

EVEN” TEST

CAUTION: Do not connect or disconnect the battery

cable or ammeter with the engine running.

CAUTION: Never use the electric starter with the

ammeter connected, as damage to the meter or meter

fuse may result. Do not run test for extended period

of time. Do not run test with high amperage

accessories.

The “break even” point of the charging system is the

point at which the alternator overcomes all system

loads (lights, etc.) and begins to charge the battery.

Depending on battery condition and system load, the

break even point may vary slightly. The battery should

be fully charged before performing this test.

GConnect an ammeter (set to DC amps)

in series between the negative

battery cable and terminal.

Do not use electric start.

--+

YB14A

Current Drain Inspection

Key Off

Less Than 9 mA

GConnect a tachometer according to

manufacturer’s instructions.

GWith engine off and the key and kill

switch in the ON position, the

ammeter should read negative amps

(battery discharge). Reverse meter

leads if a positive reading is

indicated.

GShift transmission into neutral. Start

engine with recoil only.

GIncrease engine RPM while observing

ammeter and tachometer.

GNote RPM at which the battery starts to

charge (ammeter indication is

positive).

GWith lights and other electrical load off,

this should occur at approximately

1500 RPM or lower.

GTurn the lights on and lock parking brake

to keep brake light on.

GRepeat test, observing ammeter and

tachometer. With lights on, charging

should occur at or below 2000 RPM.

ALTERNATOR OUTPUT TEST

(AC AMP)

This test measures AC amperage from the alternator.

CAUTION: This test simulates a “full load” on the

alternator. Do not perform this test longer than required

to obtain a reading or the alternator stator windings may

overheat. Do not exceed idle rpm during this test.

To Calculate Available Alternator Output

150W

12V

=12.5 Amps

I=P

I = Current in Amps

P = Power in Watts

E = Electromotive Force (Volts)

Alternator Current Output:

Minimum of 7 AC Amps

GMaximum alternator output will be

indicated on the meter. It is not

necessary to increase engine RPM

above idle.

GPlace the red lead on the tester in the

10A jack.

ELECTRICAL

10.14

GTurn the selector dial to the AC amps

(Aµ) position.

GConnect the meter leads to the Yellow

and Yellow/Red wires leading from

the alternator.

GStart the engine and let it idle. Reading

should be a minimum of 7A at idle.

BATTERY SERVICE

WARNING

Battery electrolyte is poisonous. It contains

sulfuric acid. Serious burns can result from

contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote:

Internal: Drink large quantities of water or milk.

Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg, or

vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.

Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get

prompt medical attention.

Batteries produce explosive gases. Keep

sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate

when charging or using in an enclosed space.

Always shield eyes when working near batteries.

KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

WARNING: The gases given off by a battery are

explosive. Any spark or open flame near a battery can

cause an explosion which will spray battery acid on

anyone close to it. If battery acid gets on anyone,

wash the affected area with large quantities of cool

water and seek immediate medical attention.

The battery is located under the left rear fender.

BATTERY TERMINALS/BOLTS

Use Polaris corrosion resistant Dielectric Grease (PN

2871329) on battery bolts. See Battery Installation on

Page 10.15.

MAINTENANCE--FREE

BATTERY INSPECTION

NOTE: All 2003 Trail Boss ATV batteries are

Maintenance--Free design and construction. All

Maintenance--Free batteries are fully charged and

tested at the factory before installation. Expected

shelf life is 6--8 months depending on storage

conditions. As a general rule before placing the

battery into service, check the battery condition

and charge accordingly .

New Batteries: Batteries must be fully charged

before use or battery life can be reduced by

10-30% of full potential.Charge battery for 3--5

hours at a current equivalent of 1/10 of the

battery’s rated amp/hour capacity (i.e. 12amp hr

x .10 = 1.2 amp charging). Do not use the

alternator to charge a new battery.

Maintenance--Free batteries are permanently

sealed at the time of manufacture. The use of

lead--calcium and AGM technology instead of

lead--antimony allows the battery acid to be fully

absorbed. For this reason, a Maintenance--Free

battery case is dark and the cell caps are not

removable, since there is no need to check

electrolyte level.

NEVER attempt to add electrolyte or water to a

Maintenance--Free battery. Doing so will damage

the case and shorten the life of the battery. Refer

to the Battery Maintenance Video (PN 9917987) for

proper instruction on servicing Maintenance--Free

batteries.

To service a Maintenance--Free battery:

1. Remove battery from the vehicle

2. Test battery with a voltage meter or load tester to

determine battery condition. This will determine

the length of time required to charge the battery to

full capacity. Refer to capacity table on Page

10.15.

3. Charge battery at 1/10 of its amp/hour rating.

Example: 1/10 of 12 amp battery = 1.2 amp

charge rate.

CONVENTIONAL LEAD--ACID

BATTERY INSPECTION

Maintain

between upper

and lower level

marks

NOTE: Use these procedures ONLY if the

Maintenance- Free battery has been replaced

with a Conventional Lead- acid type.

1. Inspect the battery fluid level. When the battery

fluid nears the lower level, the battery should be

removed and distilled water should be added to

the upper level line.

ELECTRICAL

10.15

To remove the battery:

1. Disconnect holder strap and remove cover.

2. Disconnect battery negative (-) (black) cable first,

followed by the positive (+) (red) cable.

CAUTION

Whenever removing or reinstalling the battery,

disconnect the negative (black) cable first and

reinstall the negative cable last!

To activate a NEW conventional lead/acid battery:

1. Remove vent plug and battery cell caps.

2. Fill battery with electrolyte to upper level marks on

case.

3. Set battery aside and allow it to cool and stabilize

for 30 minutes.

4. Add electrolyte to bring level back to upper level

mark on case. NOTE: This is the last time that

electrolyte should be added. If the level becomes

low after this point, add only distilled water.

5. Charge battery at 1/10 of its amp/hour rating.

Example: 1/10 of 14 amp battery = 1.4 amp

To charge an existing conventional lead/acid

battery:

1. Disconnect the vent hose.

2. Remove the battery.

3. Remove the filler caps and add distilled water only

as needed to bring each cell to the proper level.

Do not overfill the battery.

To refill use only distilled water. Tap water

contains minerals which are harmful to a battery.

4. Reinstall the battery caps.

5. Charge battery at 1/10 of its amp/hour rating.

Example: 1/10 of 14 amp battery = 1.4 amp

6. Reinstall the battery after testing.

BATTERY INSTALLATION

1. Clean battery cables and terminals with a stiff wire

brush. Corrosion can be removed using a solution

of one cup water and one tablespoon baking soda.

Rinse will with clean water and dry thoroughly.

2. Reinstall battery, attaching positive (+) (red) cable

first and then the negative (-) (black) cable. Coat

terminals and bolt threads with Dielectric Grease

(PN 2871329).

3. (Conventional Lead/Acid Batteries Only) Install

clear battery vent tube from vehicle to battery vent.

WARNING: Vent tube must be free from

obstructions and kinks and securely installed. If not,

battery gases could accumulate and cause an

explosion. Vent should be routed away from frame

and body to prevent contact with electrolyte. Avoid

skin contact with battery electrolyte, severe burns

could result. If electrolyte contacts the vehicle

frame, corrosion will occur.

4. Route cables so they are tucked away in front and

behind battery.

5. Reinstall battery cover and holder strap.

Do not run the engine with the battery

disconnected. Electrical components can become

damaged.

BATTERY TESTING

Whenever a service complaint is related to either the

starting or charging systems, the battery should be

checked first.

Following are three tests which can easily be made on

a battery to determine its condition: OCV Test,

Specific Gravity Test (Conventional Lead--acid

batteries only) and Load Test.

OCV - OPEN CIRCUIT

VOLTAGE TEST

Battery voltage should be checked with a digital

multitester. Readings of 12.6 volts or less require

further battery testing and charging. See charts and

Load Test on Page 10.16.

NOTE: Lead-acid battery electrolyte levels should be

kept between the low and full marks. If the battery is

stored or used in a partially charged condition, or with

low electrolyte levels, crystal sulfation will form on the

plates, reducing the efficiency and service life of the

battery.

ELECTRICAL

10.16

SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST

NOTE: This test is for Conventional Lead--acid

batteries only. Maintenance--Free batteries cannot be

opened.

A tool such as a Battery Hydrometer (PN 2870836)

can be used to measure electrolyte strength or

specific gravity. As the battery goes through the

charge/discharge cycle, the electrolyte goes from a

heavy (more acidic) state at full charge to a light (more

water) state when discharged. The hydrometer can

measure state of charge and differences between

cells in a multi-cell battery. Readings of 1.270 or

greater should be observed in a fully charged battery.

Differences of more than .025 between the lowest and

highest cell readings indicate a need to replace the

battery.

Detail A

1.10

1.15

1.20

1.25

1.30

Battery Hydrometer (PN 2870876)

OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE

State of

charge

Conventional

Lead-acid

Maintenance

Free

100%

Charged

75% Charged

50% Charged

25% Charged

0% Charged

12.60V

12.40V

12.10V

11.90V

less than

11.80V

12.70V

12.50V

12.20V

12.0V

less than

11.9V

SPECIFIC GRAVITY

State of

charge*

Conventional

lead-acid

Maintenance

Free

100%

Charged

75% Charged

50% Charged

25% Charged

0% Charged

1.265

1.210

1.160

1.120

less than

1.100

n/a

*At80_FNOTE: Subtract .01 from the specific gravity

reading when testing. At 40_F, add .01 to the specific

gravity.

LOAD TEST

CAUTION: Remove spark plug high tension leads and

connect securely to engine ground before proceeding.

NOTE: This test can only be performed on engines with

electric starters. This test cannot be performed with an

engine or starting system that is not working properly.

A battery may indicate a full charge condition in the OCV

test and the specific gravity test, but still may not have

the storage capacity necessary to properly function in

the electrical system. For this reason, a battery capacity

or load test should be conducted whenever poor battery

performance is encountered. To perform this test, hook

a multitester to the battery in the same manner as was

done in the OCV test. The reading should be 12.6 volts

or greater. Engage the electric starter and view the

registered battery voltage while cranking the engine.

Continue the test for 15 seconds. During this cranking

period, the observed voltage should not drop below 9.5

volts. If the beginning voltage is 12.6 volts or higher and

the cranking voltage drops below 9.5 volts during the

test, replace the battery.

OFF SEASON STORAGE

To prevent battery damage during extended periods

of non-use, the following basic battery maintenance

items must be performed:

GRemove the battery from the machine and

wash the case and battery tray with a mild

solution of baking soda and water. Rinse

with fresh water after cleaning. NOTE:

Do not get any baking soda into the

battery or the acid will be neutralized.

GUsing a wire brush, remove any corrosion

from the cables and terminals.

GMake sure that the electrolyte is at the

proper level. Add distilled water if

necessary.

GCharge at a rate no greater than 1/10 of the

battery’s amp/hr capacity until the

electrolyte’s specific gravity reaches

1.270 (12.7 volts) or greater.

GStore the battery either in the machine with

the cables disconnected or place the

batter on a piece of wood and store in a

cool place.

CHARGING PROCEDURE

Charge the battery with a charger no larger than 1/10

of the battery’s amp/hr rating for as many hours as

needed to raise the specific gravity to 1.270 or greater.

ELECTRICAL

10.17

NOTE: Stored batteries lose their charge at the rate

of 1% per day. They should be recharged to a full

charge every 30 to 60 days during a non-use period.

If the battery is stored during the winter months the

electrolyte will freeze at a higher temperature as the

battery discharges. The chart at below indicates

freezing points by specific gravity.

Electrolyte Freezing Points

Specific Gravity

of Electrolyte

Freezing

Point

1.265 -75°F

1.225 -35°F

1.200 -17°F

1.150 +5°F

1.100 +18°F

1.050 +27°F

1. Install battery in vehicle with positive terminal

toward the front. Coat threads of battery bolt with

a corrosion resistant dielectric grease.

Dielectric Grease

(PN 2871329)

WARNING: To avoid the possibility of explosion,

connect positive (red) cable first and negative (black)

cable last.

2. Connect battery cables.

3. After connecting the battery cables, install the cover

on the battery and attach the hold down strap.

4. (Conventional Lead--acid batteries only) Install

clear battery vent tube from vehicle to battery vent.

WARNING: Vent tube must be free from

obstructions and kinks and securely installed. If not,

battery gases could accumulate and cause an

explosion. Vent should be routed away from frame

and body to prevent contact with electrolyte. Avoid

skin contact with battery electrolyte, severe burns

could result. If electrolyte contacts the vehicle

frame, corrosion will occur.

5. Route cables so they are tucked away in front and

behind battery.

HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT

The headlight beam can be adjusted up and down and

side to side.

1. Place the vehicle on a level surface with the

headlight approximately 25’ (7.6 m) from a wall.

25’ (7.6 m)

Lamp Center Height

2²(5.1 cm)

2. Measure the distance from the floor to the center

of the headlight and make a mark on the wall at

the same height.

3. Shift transmission to neutral, start the engine and

turn the headlight switch to high beam.

4. Observe headlight aim. The most intense part of

the headlight beam should be aimed 2²(5.1 cm)

below the mark placed on the wall in Step 2.

NOTE: Rider weight must be included on the

seat. For machines with separate low beam

lights, the drop should be 8²(20.3 cm) in 25’.

5. Adjust beam to desired position by moving

headlight.

HEADLIGHT LAMP

REPLACEMENT

NOTE: Allow lamp to cool before proceeding. Do not

touch a halogen lamp with bare fingers. Oil from your

skin leaves a residue, causing a hot spot which will

shorten the life of the lamp. Hold the bulb by the base

only.

Headlight Assembly Removal

1. Carefully unsnap the electrical harness from the

back of the headlight assembly and remove the

harness.

2. Remove the screws and nuts from the sides of the

headlight assembly.

3. Remove the headlight assembly.

ELECTRICAL

10.18

Headlamp Replacement

1. With the headlight assembly in place, unsnap the

electrical harness from the back the headlight

assembly.

2. Turn and pull out the connector on the back of the

headlight assembly. Gently pull the bulb out and

replace with the new bulb. Snap the harness back

into place.

TAILLIGHT/BRAKELIGHT

LAMP REPLACEMENT

If the taillight/brakelight does not work the lamp may

need to be replaced.

1. From the rear of the taillight remove two screws

holding lens cover in place and remove lens

cover.

Lens Cover

Bulb

2. Remove lamp and replace it with recommended

lamp. Apply Dielectric Grease (PN 2871329).

3. Reinstall the lens cover removed in Step 1.

4. Test the taillight/brakelight to see that it’s working.

POD ASSEMBLY REMOVAL /

INDICATOR LAMP

REPLACEMENT

1. Remove the two screw covers (A) and screws

from the pod assembly (B).

2. Disconnect indicator light panel from harness, by

lifting the retaining latch from the wire connector.

NOTE: The indicator panel (C) does not have to be

remove from the pod to replace an indicator light.

3. To remove defective light: Use a small

screwdriver and turn light holder a quarter turn,

pull light holder out with a needle nose pliers or

equivalent. Replace with new holder and bulb

assembly and reassemble pod.

Rear view of indicator lamp panel

1/4 Turn

4. Reverse the above steps for installation.

ELECTRICAL

10.19

HEADLAMP SWITCH

Follow procedure, Headlight Lamp Replacement, on

Page 10.17--10.18 to access connector. Probe the

headlamp plug wires (Brown, Green, Yellow) at back

of connector. Turn headlight on. Test for battery

voltage across the connections.

Check continuity across pins of the left handle bar

switch assembly. See illustration below.

Continuity

R/W Grn

Off

On FF

NEUTRAL LIGHT CIRCUIT

OPERATION

Power is supplied to the transmission switch from the

Red/White wire when the key and engine stop switch

are on. When neutral is selected, power flows through

the switch to the Green/White wire, through the lamp

and to ground via the Brown wire.

If the light is not on when neutral is selected, check the

bulb. If the bulb is good, check the wiring,

transmission switches, and lamp socket ground path.

BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH

1. Remove front cover.

2. Disconnect wire harness from switch.

3. Connect an ohmmeter across switch contacts.

Reading should be infinite (∞).

4. Apply brake at handlebar lever and check for

continuity between switch contacts. Replace

switch if there is no continuity or greater than .5

ohms resistance when the brake is applied with

slight pressure.

NOTES

ELECTRICAL

10.20

STARTER SYSTEM TESTING

Condition: Starter fails to turn motor. NOTE: Make sure engine crankshaft is free to turn before proceeding with

dynamic testing of starter system. A digital multitester must be used for this test.

With the tester on the VDC position, place the tes-

ter’s black lead on the battery negative and the red

lead on the battery positive.

Reading should be 12.4 volts or greater.

Remove battery and properly service.

Install fully charged shop battery to continue

test.

Disconnect White/Red engagement coil wire from

the starter solenoid. Connect tester black wire to

battery ground. Connect red tester lead to White/

Red harness wire at solenoid. Turn on ignition

switch and depress the starter button. Tester

should read battery voltage.

Check voltage on both sides of circuit

breaker, ignition switch/engine stop switch

and starter button. The voltage on both

sides should be the same. NOTE: The igni-

tion switch and engine stop switch must be

on and the starter button depressed. Re-

place the defective component.

Reconnect the solenoid. Connect the tester black

lead to the battery positive and the red lead to the

solenoid end of the battery-to-solenoid wire. De-

press starter button. Reading should be less than

.1 V D.C.

Clean the battery-to-solenoid cable ends or

replace the cable.

Connect the black tester lead to solenoid end of

battery-to-solenoid cable. Connect red tester lead

to solenoid end of solenoid-to-starter cable. De-

press starter button. Reading should be less than

.1 V D.C.

Replace the starter solenoid.

Connect the black tester lead to the solenoid end of

the solenoid-to-starter cable. Connect the red tester

lead to the starter end of the same cable. Depress

the starter button. The reading should be less than

.1 V D.C.

Clean the solenoid-to-starter cable ends or

replace the cable.

Yes

If all of these indicate a good condition, yet the starter still fails to turn, the

starter must be removed for static testing and inspection.

Yes

Test starter solenoid coil by connecting an ohmmeter between the solenoid

red wire and the solenoid mounting plate. Resistance should be 3.4W.

Check solenoid ground path by measuring resistance between mounting

plate and battery negative terminal (-).

Voltage Drop Testing

See Page 10.21 for instructions.

Yes

ELECTRICAL

10.21

STARTER SYSTEM

TROUBLESHOOTING

Starter Motor Does Not Turn

GBattery discharged - low specific gravity

GLoose or faulty battery cables or corroded

connections (see Voltage Drop Tests)

GRelated wiring loose, disconnected, or

corroded

GPoor ground connections at battery cable,

starter motor or starter solenoid (see

Voltage Drop Tests)

GFaulty starter button

GFaulty ignition switch (Do other systems

function?)

GFaulty starter solenoid or starter motor.

GEngine problem - seized or binding (Can

engine be rotated easily with recoil

starter?)

Starter Motor Turns Over Slowly

GBattery discharged - low specific gravity

GExcessive circuit resistance - poor

connections (see Voltage Drop Test

below)

GEngine problem - seized or binding (Can

engine be rotated easily with recoil

starter?)

GFaulty or worn brushes in starter motor

GAutomatic compression release inoperative

Starter Motor Turns - Engine Does Not Rotate

GFaulty starter drive

GFaulty starter drive gears or starter motor

gear

GFaulty flywheel gear or loose flywheel

VOLTAGE DROP TEST

The Voltage Drop Test is used to test for bad

connections. When performing the test, you are

testing the amount of voltage drop through the

connection. A poor or corroded connection will

appear as a high voltage reading. Voltage shown on

the meter when testing connections should not

exceed .1 VDC per connection or component.

To perform the test, place the meter on DC volts and

place the meter leads across the connection to be

tested. Refer to the chart on next page to perform

voltage drop tests on the starter system.

Voltage should not exceed:

1 DC volts per connection

STARTER MOTOR

DISASSEMBLY

NOTE: Use electrical contact cleaner to clean starter

motor parts. Some solvents may leave a residue or

damage internal parts and insulation.

1. Note the alignment marks on both ends of the

starter motor casing. These marks must align

during reassembly.

2. Remove the two bolts, washers, and sealing

O-Rings. Inspect O-Rings and replace if damaged.

ELECTRICAL

10.22

3. Remove brush terminal end of housing while

holding other two sections together.

4. Remove shims from armature shaft. NOTE: All

shims must be replaced during reassembly.

BRUSH

INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT

Brush Set

1. Using a digital multitester, measure the

resistance between the cable terminal and the

insulated brush. The reading should be .3 ohms

or less. Measure the resistance between the

cable terminal and brush housing. Make sure the

brush is not touching the case. The reading

should be infinite.

2. Remove nut, flat washer, large phenolic washer,

two small phenolic washers, and O-Ring from

brush terminal. Inspect the O-Ring and replace if

damaged.

Brush Length

5/16²(.8 cm)

Brush Length Service Limit:

5/16²(.8 cm)

3. Remove brush plate and brushes. Measure

length of brushes and replace if worn past the

service limit. Replace springs if they are

discolored or have inadequate tension.

4. Inspect surface of commutator for wear or

discoloration. See Steps 3-6 of armature testing

on Page 10.23.

5. Install a new carbon brush assembly in the brush

housing. NOTE: Be sure that the terminal bolt

insulating washer is properly seated in the

housing, and the tab on the brush plate engages

the notch in the brush plate housing.

6. Place a wrap of electrical tape on the threads of

the terminal bolt to prevent O-Ring damage

during reinstallation.

7. Install the O-Ring over the bolt. Make sure the

O-ring is fully seated.

8. Remove the electrical tape and reinstall the two

small phenolic washers, the large phenolic

washer, flat washer, and nut.

ELECTRICAL

10.23

ARMATURE TESTING

1. Remove armature from starter casing. Note

order of shims on drive end for reassembly.

2. Inspect surface of commutator. Replace if

excessively worn or damaged.

3. Using a digital multitester, measure the

resistance between each of the commutator

segments. The reading should be .3 ohms or

less.

4. Measure the resistance between each

commutator segment and the armature shaft.

The reading should be infinite (no continuity).

5. Check commutator bars for discoloration. Bars

discolored in pairs indicate shorted coils,

requiring replacement of the starter motor.

6. Place armature in a growler. Turn growler on and

position a hacksaw blade or feeler gauge

lengthwise 1/8²(.3 cm) above armature coil

laminates. Rotate armature 360°. If hacksaw

blade is drawn to armature on any pole, the

armature is shorted and must be replaced.

STARTER ASSEMBLY

1. Place armature in field magnet casing.

2. Place shims on drive end of armature shaft with

phenolic washer outermost on shaft. Engage

tabs of stationary washer in drive end housing,

holding it in place with a light film of grease.

3. Install case sealing O-Ring. Make sure O-Ring is

in good condition and not twisted on the case.

Lubricate needle bearing and oil seal with a light

film of grease, and install housing, aligning marks.

4. Install O-Ring on other end of field magnet casing.

Make sure it is in good condition and not twisted

on the case.

5. Align casing marks and install housing, pushing

back brushes while installing shaft in bushing.

6. Reinstall starter motor housing bolts.

Make sure O-Rings are in good condition and

seated in groove.

7. Inspect permanent magnets in starter housing.

Make sure they are not cracked or separated from

housing.

CAUTION: Use care when handling starter housing.

Do not drop or strike the housing as magnet damage

is possible. If magnets are damaged, starter must be

replaced.

ELECTRICAL

10.24

STARTER DRIVE

Pinion Gear - Anti Kick-out Shoe, Garter

Spring Replacement

If the garter spring is damaged, the overrun clutch

may fail to return properly. The replacement spring is

(PN 7042039). Use either of the following methods to

remove and install a new garter spring.

Starter Motor Exploded View

O-ring

Rear Brkt Assy

Armature

SetBoltAssy

Washer

Washer Set

Rubber Rings

Weight Spring

Return Spring

Carbon

Brush

Set

1. Screw the overrun clutch out to the engaged

position on the pinion shaft assembly. Use a

small piece of wire with the end bent in a hook and

pick the old spring out of its channel. Slide it off

the end of the shaft. Slide the new spring over the

overrun clutch and into the spring groove. Make

sure that the spring is positioned between the

shoe alignment pins and the back flange of the

anti kick-out shoes.

2. Remove the lock ring, end washer, spring

retainers and clutch return spring. Screw the

overrun clutch off the end of the pinion shaft.

Remove the old spring and install a new one.

Lightly grease the pinion shaft and reinstall the

clutch, spring, retainers, end washer and lock ring

in the reverse order. Make sure the end washer is

positioned properly so that it will hold the lock ring

in its groove.

Polaris Premium Starter Drive Grease

(PN 2871460)

NOTES

A-Arm Replacement, 5.6

Air Filter Cleaning, 2.15

Air Filter Service, 2.15

Alternator Output Test, 10.13

Alternator, Exploded View, 10.9

Battery Charging, 10.16

Battery Installation, 10.15

Battery Maintenance, 2.13

Battery Service, 10.14, 10.16

Battery Terminal Bolts, 10.14

Battery Testing, 10.15

Battery, Off Season Storage, 10.16

Body Assembly Exploded View, 5.2

Brake Bleeding, 9.6

Brake Bleeding/Fluid Change, 9.11

Brake Caliper Assembly, Rear, 9.19

Brake Caliper Disassembly, Front, 9.12

Brake Caliper Exploded View, Front, 9.16

Brake Caliper Exploded View, Rear, 9.22

Brake Caliper Inspection, Front, 9.13

Brake Caliper Installation, Front, 9.15

Brake Caliper Removal, Front, 9.12

Brake Caliper Removal, Rear, 9.18

Brake Disc Inspection, Front, 9.11

Brake Disc Inspection, Rear, 9.20

Brake Disc Removal/Replacement, Front, 9.11

Brake Fluid Change, 9.6

Brake Fluid Level, 2.23

Brake Hose/Fitting Inspection, 2.23

Brake Light Switch Testing, 10.19

Brake Noise, 9.3

Brake Pad Application, 9.3

Brake Pad Assembly, Front, 9.10

Brake Pad Inspection, 2.23

Brake Pad Installation, Rear, 9.17

Brake Pad Removal, Front, 9.9

Brake Pad Removal, Rear, 9.17

Brake System Inspection, 2.23

Brake System Main Components, 9.5

Brake System Operation, 9.4

Brake System Service Notes, 9.3

Brake, Auxiliary, Hydraulic, 2.23

Brakelight Lamp Replacement, 10.18

Cam Chain Drive Sprocket Installation, 3.34

Cam Chain Tensioner Inspection, 3.11

Cam Chain Tensioner Installation, 3.41

Cam Chain Tensioner Removal, 3.11

Cam Chain/Camshaft Installation, 3.37

Cam Chain/Tensioner Blade, 3.27

Camber & Caster, 2.21

Camshaft Inspection, 3.14

Camshaft Removal, 3.13, 3.14

Camshaft Timing, 3.37, 3.38, 3.39, 3.40

Carburetor Assembly, 4.10

Carburetor Disassembly, 4.8

Carburetor Exploded View, BST34, 4.2

Carburetor Float Bowl Draining, 2.12

Carburetor Float Height Adjustment, 4.11

Carburetor Float System, 4.8

Carburetor Fuel Level Testing, 4.12

Carburetor Inspection, 4.9, 4.10

Carburetor Main System, 4.8

Carburetor Needle and Seat Testing, 4.11

Carburetor Operation, 4.6

Carburetor Pilot System, 4.7

Carburetor Starter System, 4.7

Carburetor System Function, 4.6

CDI Output Test, 10.11

Charging System Break Even Test, 10.13

Charging System Testing, 10.12, 10.13

Choke Adjustment, 2.10

Clutch Alignment, 6.15

Clutch Offset, 6.16

Combustion Chamber, 3.18

Compression Release Installation, 3.14

Compression Release Removal/Inspection, 3.14

Compression Test, 2.13

Concentric Swing Arm Installation, 5.8

Concentric Swing Arm Removal, 5.7

Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance Inspection,

3.31

Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection, 3.31

Connecting Rod Installation, 3.33

Controls Inspection, 2.27

Conversion Table, 1.10

Cover/Panel Removal, 5.5

Crankcase Assembly, 3.34

Crankcase Bearing Inspection, 3.31

Crankcase Bearing Installation, 3.32

Crankcase Disassembly, 3.25

Crankcase Inspection, 3.32

Crankcase Oil Strainer Inspection, 3.34

Crankcase Separation, 3.29

Cranking Output Test, 10.11

Crankshaft Bearing Inspection, 3.31

Crankshaft End Play Adjustment, 3.32

Crankshaft End Play Inspection, 3.32

Crankshaft Inspection, 3.30

Crankshaft Installation, 3.34

Crankshaft Removal/Inspection, 3.29

Cylinder Head Assembly, 3.21, 3.22

Cylinder Head Disassembly, 3.16

Cylinder Head Inspection, 3.15

Cylinder Head Installation, 3.36

Cylinder Head Reconditioning, 3.18

Cylinder Head Removal, 3.15

Cylinder Head Warpage, 3.16

Cylinder Honing, 3.6

Cylinder Inspection, 3.23, 3.24

Cylinder Installation, 3.36

Cylinder Removal, 3.22

Decal Replacement, 5.12

Decimal Equivalents, 1.9

Draining Recoil Housing, 2.16

Drive Belt Removal/Inspection, 6.14

Drive Belt Tension, 6.13

Drive Chain Adjustment, 2.24

Drive Chain Inspection, 2.24

Drive Clutch Assembly, 6.12

Drive Clutch Bushing Service, 6.16, 6.17, 6.18

Drive Clutch Disassembly, 6.10, 6.11, 6.12

Drive Clutch Exploded View, 6.7

Drive Clutch Inspection, 6.10

Drive Clutch Operation, 6.2

Drive Sprocket Removal/Inspection, 3.27

Driven Clutch Assembly, 6.20

Driven Clutch Bushing Service, 6.21, 6.22

Driven Clutch Disassembly, 6.19

Driven Clutch Operation, 6.2, 6.3

Dual Hydraulic Caliper Bleeding, 9.5

Electrical Service Notes, 10.2

Engine Accessible Components, 3.5

Engine Assembly, 3.32, 3.33, 3.34, 3.35, 3.36,

3.37, 3.38, 3.39, 3.40, 3.41, 3.42

Engine Bottom End Disassembly, 3.22, 3.23,

3.24, 3.25, 3.26, 3.27, 3.28, 3.29, 3.31

Engine Break in Period, 3.6

Engine Designation Numbers, 1.2

Engine Exploded View , ES32PF, 3.10

Engine Installation Notes, 3.6

Engine Lubrication, 3.7

Engine Mounts, 2.13

Engine Oil Check, 2.17

Engine Removal, 3.5

Engine Serial Number Location, 1.2

Engine Service Data, 3.2, 3.3

Engine to Frame Ground, 2.15

Engine Top End Disassembly, 3.11, 3.12, 3.13,

3.14, 3.15, 3.16, 3.17

ETC Switch Adjustment, 2.11

ETC Switch Testing, 10.7

Exhaust System, Maintenance, 2.22

Exhaust Valve Adjustment, 2.19

Fan Control Circuit, 10.6

Fan Motor Current Draw Test, 10.6

Fastener Torque, 2.13

Flywheel Identification, 10.8

Flywheel Installation, 3.42

Flywheel Removal/Inspection, 3.26

Frame, Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, 2.28

Front Hub Assembly, 7.3

Front Hub Disassembly, 7.2

Front Hub Exploded View, 7.5

Front Hub Installation, 7.4

FrontStrutAssembly,AWD,5.9

Front Strut Ball Joint Replacement, 5.10

Front Strut Weldment Replacement, 5.10

Fuel Filter Maintenance, 2.12

Fuel Pump Exploded View, 4.3

Fuel Pump Service, 4.12

Fuel System, 2.12

Fuel Tank Assembly, Exploded View, 4.4

Gear Position Switch Test, 10.3

Glossary of Terms, 1.11

Headlamp Replacement, 10.18

Headlamp Switch Testing, 10.19

Headlight Adjustment , 10.17

Headlight Assembly Removal, 10.17

Headlight Lamp Replacement, 10.17

Honing to Oversize, 3.6, 3.7

Idle Speed Adjustment, 2.11

Ignition System Testing, 10.10

Ignition Timing, 2.14

Indicator Lamp Replacement, 10.18

Intake Valve Adjustment, 2.19

Jetting Guidelines, 4.5

Keys, Replacement, 1.4

Load Test, 10.16

Lubricants, 2.4

Lubricants, Recommended, 2.5

Lubrication Chart, 2.6

Lubrication Charts, 2.5

Lubrication, Transmission, 2.8, 8.2

Machine Dimensions, 1.5

Maintenance Chart, Periodic, 2.2, 2.3

Master Cylinder Disassembly, 9.7

Master Cylinder Installation, 9.8

Model & Serial Number Location, 1.2

Model Identification, 1.2

Model Specifications, 1.6, 1.7

Neutral Light Testing, 10.19

Oil & Filter Change--Magnum 500, 2.18

Oil Cooler Assembly, 3.8

Oil Filter Installation, 3.35

Oil Flow, ES32PF, 3.9

Oil Pressure Test, 3.7

Oil Pump Assembly, 3.29

Oil Pump Installation, 3.34

Oil Pump Removal/Inspection, 3.28

Paint Codes, 1.8

Pilot Screw Adjustment, 2.10

Piston Identification, 3.5

Piston Inspection, 3.24

Piston Installation, 3.35

Piston Removal, 3.23

Piston Ring Installation, 3.35

Piston Ring Installed Gap, 3.25

Pod Assembly Removal, 10.18

Pre Ride Inspection, 2.3

Pressure Relief Valve, 3.28

Pressure Relief Valve Installation, 3.34

Publication Numbers, 1.8

PVT Assembly, 6.6

PVT Disassembly, 6.5

PVT Drying, 2.17, 6.3

PVT Maintenance, 6.3

PVT Operation, 6.2

PVT Overheating, 6.4

PVT System Sealing/Ducting Components, 6.7

PVT Troubleshooting, 6.23, 6.24

Rear Axle Assembly, 7.7

Rear Axle Assembly, Exploded View, 7.9

Rear Axle Disassembly, 7.7

Rear Axle Installation, 7.8

Rear Axle Removal, 7.6

Rear Housing Bearing Service, 7.10

Rear Housing Installation, 7.11

Rear Housing Removal, 7.10

Recoil Assembly, 3.44

Recoil Disassembly/Inspection, 3.42

Recoil Draining, 2.16

Reverse Limit System, 10.4, 10.5

Rocker Arm/Shaft Inspection, 3.12

Rocker Shaft/Rocker Arm Assembly Installation,

3.42

Troubleshooting, Transmission, 8.7

Sediment Tube, Maintenance, 2.16

Shift Linkage Adjustment, 2.9

Shift Weights, 6.9

Side Panel Removal, 5.5

Spark Plug Maintenance, 2.14

Special Tools, 2.7, 3.4, 4.5, 6.2, 8.2, 9.3, 10.2

Specific Gravity Test, 10.16

Specifications, Brake, 9.2

Specifications, Drive Clutch Spring, 6.8

Specifications, Speed Limiter, 10.3

Specifications, Torque, Brakes, 9.2

Specifications, Torque, Engine, 3.4

Specifications, Torque, Final Drive, 7.2

Specifications, Torque, PVT, 6.2

Specifications, Torque, Standard, 1.8

Specifications, Torque, Suspension, 5.4

Specifications, Torque, Transmission, 8.2

Spider Removal, 6.11

Sprocket Inspection, 2.24

Starter Assembly, 10.23

Starter Disassembly, 10.21

Starter Drive, 10.24

Starter Drive Installation, 3.42

Starter Drive Removal/Inspection, 3.26

Starter Motor Armature Testing, 10.23

Starter Motor Brush Inspection/Replacement,

10.22

Starter System Test, 10.20

Stator Installation, 3.41

Stator Removal/Inspection, 3.26

Steering Assembly, Exploded View, 4x4, 5.3

Steering Maintenance, 2.20

Steering Post Assembly, 5.12

Suspension Preload Adjustment, 2.26

Suspension Special Tools, 5.4

Suspension, Front, Inspection, 2.26

Suspension, Rear, Inspection, 2.26

Taillight Lamp Replacement, 10.18

Tap Drill Chart, 1.9

Tensioner Blade Installation, 3.35

Thermistor Testing, 10.6

Throttle Cable Adjustment, 2.11

Throttle Operation, 2.10, 2.11

Tie Rod Inspection, 2.20

Timing Check Procedures, 10.2

Tire Inspection, 2.28

Tire Pressure, 2.28

Tire Tread Depth, 2.28

Toe Alignment, 2.21, 2.22

Torque Patterns, Engine, 3.4

Torque Stop Adjustment, 2.8

Trailboss, 2003, Model, 1.3

Transmission Assembly, 8.5

Transmission Disassembly, 8.2

Transmission Exploded View, 8.7, 8.8

Transmission I.D. Location, 1.2

Transmission Installation, 8.2

Transmission Linkage Adjustment, 2.9

Transmission Removal, 8.2

Troubleshooting, Brakes, 9.21

Troubleshooting, Engine, 3.45, 3.46

Troubleshooting, Fuel System/Carb, 4.13

Troubleshooting, Ignition System, 10.11

Troubleshooting, Spark Plug, 3.45

Troubleshooting, Starter System, 10.21

Valve Clearance, 2.19

Valve Guide Removal/Installation, 3.18

Valve Inspection, 3.17

Valve Seal Testing, 3.22

Valve Seat Inspection, 3.18

Valve Seat Reconditioning, 3.18, 3.19, 3.20

VIN Identification, 1.2

Voltage Drop Test, 10.21

Voltage Test Open Circuit, 10.15

Wheel Inspection, 2.27

Wheel Installation, 2.27

Wheel Removal Front or Rear, 2.27

Wiring Diagram, 2002, Trail Boss 325, 10.29

ELECTRICAL

10.25

WIRING DIAGRAM 2003 TRAILBOSS 330

03_foreword 2003 Polaris Trail Boss 330 Service Manual Part III

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