2005 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI & 800 Service Manual

9919820 to the manual 70b01de9-80ac-4f99-8f48-d12a1f757a9e

User Manual: 2005 Polaris Sportsman 700 EFI & 800 EFI Service Manual

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2005 SPORTSMAN 700 EFI
2005 SPORTSMAN 800 EFI
SERVICE MANUAL
PN 9919820
2005 SPORTSMAN 700/800 EFI SERVICE MANUAL PN 9919820
Printed in USA
9919820
PART #
Cvr_9919820 10/14/04 10:19 AM Page 1
2005 SPORTSMAN 700/800 EFI
SERVICE MANUAL
Foreword
This manual is designed primarily for use by certified Polaris Master Service Dealer technicians in a properly
equipped shop and should be kept available for reference. All references to left and right side of the vehicle
are from the operator’s perspective when seated in a normal riding position.
Some procedures outlined in this manual require a sound knowledge of mechanical theory, tool use, and shop
procedures in order to perform the work safely and correctly. Technicians should read the text and be familiar
with service procedures before starting the work. Certain procedures require the use of special tools. Use
only the proper tools as specified.
This manual includes procedures for maintenance operations, component identification and unit repair, along
with service specifications for Polaris Sportsman 700/800 EFI ATVs. Comments or suggestions about this
manual may be directed to: Service Publications Dept. @ Polaris Sales Inc. 2100 Hwy 55 Medina Minnesota
55340.
Some Polaris factory manuals can be downloaded from www.polarisindustries.com or purchased from
www.purepolaris.com or contact your nearest Polaris dealer.
2005 Sportsman 700/800 EFI ATV Service Manual (PN 9919820)
ECopyright 2004 Polaris Sales Inc. All information contained within this publication is based on the latest product information at the
time of publication. Due to constant improvements in the design and quality of production components, some minor discrepancies may
result between the actual vehicle and the information presented in this publication. Depictions and/or procedures in this publication are
intended for reference use only. No liability can be accepted for omissions or inaccuracies. Any reprinting or reuse of the depictions
and/or procedures contained within, whether whole or in part, is expressly prohibited. Printed in U.S.A.
UNDERSTANDING SAFETY LABELS AND INSTRUCTIONS
Throughout these instructions, important information is brought to your attention by the following symbols:
The Safety Alert Symbol means ATTENTION! BECOME ALERT! YOUR SAFETY IS INVOLVED!
DANGER
Failure to follow DANGER instructions will result in severe injury or death to the operator, bystander or person
inspecting or servicing the ATV.
WARNING
Failure to follow WARNING instructions could result in severe injury or death to the operator, bystander or
person inspecting or servicing the ATV.
CAUTION:
A CAUTION indicates special precautions that must be taken to avoid personal injury, or ATV or property
damage.
NOTE:
A NOTE provides key information to clarify instructions.
Trademarks
Polaris acknowledges the following products mentioned in this manual:
Loctite, Registered Trademark of the Loctite Corporation
STA-BIL, Registered Trademark of Gold Eagle
Nyogel, Trademark of Wm. F. Nye Co.
Fluke, Registered Trademark of John Fluke Mfg. Co.
Mity Vac, Registered Trademark of Neward Enterprises, Inc.
Ammco, Registered Trademark of Ammco Tools, Inc.
Torx, Registered Trademark of Textron
Hilliard, Trademark of the Hilliard Corporation
Warn, Trademark of the Warn Industries
HiPerWashtand Liquid Bufftare trademarks of HPC inc.
GENERAL
MAINTENANCE
ENGINE
ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION
CLUTCHING
FINAL DRIVE
BODY AND STEERING
TRANSMISSION
BRAKES
ELECTRICAL
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.1
Model Identification 1.2.......................
Serial Number Location 1.2...................
2005 Sportsman EFI Dimensions 1.3...........
Specifications - Sportsman EFI 1.4--1.5............
Publication Numbers 1.6.....................
Paint Codes 1.6.............................
Replacement Keys 1.6.......................
Standard Torque Specifications 1.6............
Special Tools 1.7--1.10............................
Torque Table 1.11............................
Conversion Table 1.12........................
Tap Drill Charts 1.13..........................
Decimal Equivalent Chart 1.13.................
Glossary of Terms 1.14........................
Specs
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.2
MODEL IDENTIFICATION
The machine model number must be used with any correspondence regarding warranty or service.
Machine Model Number Identification
Year Designation Basic Chassis
Designation Engine Designation
A05MH68AU
Emissions &
Model Option
ENGINE DESIGNATION NUMBERS
EH068OLE Twin cylinder, Liquid Cooled, 4 Stroke, Electric Start.................
EH076OLE Twin cylinder, Liquid Cooled, 4 Stroke, Electric Start.................
VIN IDENTIFICATION
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1112 13 14 15 16 17
4XA MH 68A* 4P0 00 000
Vehicle Description Vehicle Identifier
Powertrain
Engine
Emissions Model
Year
Plant No. Individual Serial No.
Body Style
Check Digit
World Mfg. ID
* This could be either
a number or a letter
ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION
Be sure to refer to the engine model number and serial number
whenever corresponding about an engine. This information
can be found on the sticker applied to the top side of the
crankcase (A). An additional number is stamped on the side of
the crankcase beneath the cylinder coolant elbow.
MACHINE MODEL NUMBER AND
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION
The machine model number and serial number are
important for vehicle identification. The machine serial
number is stamped on the lower left side of the frame
tube.(B)
TRANSMISSION I.D. NUMBER
LOCATION
A
B
Front
The transmission I.D. number is located on
the right side of machine.
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.3
MODEL: 2005 SPORTSMAN 700 EFI..........
MODEL NUMBER: A05MH68AU.
ENGINE MODEL: EH068OLE22..
Category Dimension / Capacity
Length 83 in./205.74 cm
Width 48 in./116.8 cm
Height 48 in./119.4 cm
Seat Height 34 in./86.4 cm
Wheel Base 50.75 in./128.9 cm
Dry Weight 770 lbs./326.6 kg
Gross Vehicle Weight 1220 lbs. / 553 kg
Front Rack Capacity 100 lbs./45.4 kg
Rear Rack Capacity 200 lbs./90.7 kg
Towing Capacity 1500 lbs./454 kg
Hitch Tongue Capacity 150 lbs./68 kg
Body Style Spirit
MODEL: 2005 SPORTSMAN 800 EFI..........
MODEL NUMBER: A05MH86AU.
ENGINE MODEL: EH076OLE011..
Category Dimension / Capacity
Length 83 in./205.74 cm
Width 48 in./116.8 cm
Height 48 in./119.4 cm
Seat Height 34 in./86.4 cm
Wheel Base 50.75 in./128.9 cm
Dry Weight 770 lbs./326.6 kg
Gross Vehicle Weight 1220 lbs. / 553 kg
Front Rack Capacity 100 lbs./45.4 kg
Rear Rack Capacity 200 lbs./90.7 kg
Towing Capacity 1500 lbs./454 kg
Hitch Tongue Capacity 150 lbs./68 kg
Body Style Spirit
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.4
MODEL: 2005 SPORTSMAN 700 EFI..........
MODEL NUMBER: A05MH68AU.
ENGINE MODEL: EH068OLE..
Engine
Platform Polaris Twin Cylinder
Engine Model Number EH0680LE022
Engine Displacement 683cc
Number of Cylinders 2
Bore & Stroke (mm) 80 x 68 mm
Compression Ratio 9.78:1
Compression Pressure 150--170 psi
Engine Idle Speed 1150 ±100 RPM
Engine Max Operating Rpm 6500 Rpm ±200 Rpm
Cooling System / Capacity Liquid -- 3.2 qt / 3 ltr
Overheat Warning HOT on Instrument Cluster
Lubrication Pressurized Wet Sump
Oil Requirements / Capacity Polaris 0W--40 2 qt. / 1.9 ltr
Exhaust System Single Pipe
Fuel System
Fuel System Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)
Fuel Pump (in tank assembly) 25L per hour at 39 PSI
Fuel Filter(s) 30 Micron in Tank (not replaceable)
10 Micron In Line (replaceable)
Fuel Injector(s) Bosch
EFI Controller Bosch MSE 1.1 ECU
Fuel Capacity / Requirement 4.13 gal US / 15.6 ltr
87 Octane (minimum)
89 Oxygenated
Electrical
Alternator Output 500 w @ 6000 RPM
Lights : Pod 50 watts
Grill Two x 27 watts
Brake 8.26 watts
Tail 26.9 watts
Ignition System DC/CDI Ignition
Operating RPM 6000 RPM
Ignition Timing 13°BTDC @ 1200 RPM
Spark plug / Gap RC7YC/ .035 in./0.9 mm
Battery / Model / Amp Hr Lead Acid / 30 Amp Hr
Circuit Breakers Fan20amp--Harness20amp
Fuel pump/ECU 15 amp
Instrument Cluster / Voltage
Regulator 6 amp
Starting Electric
Instrument Cluster LCD
Drivetrain
Transmission Type Drumshift -- H/L/N/Rev/Park
Transmission Capacity 15 oz. / 450m
Rear Gearcase Capacity 5 oz. / 150ml
Front Gearcase Capacity 5 oz. / 150ml
Gear Ratio : Low
Rev
High
Front Drive
Rear Drive
7.49:1
5.11:1
2.70:1
3.82:1
3.10:1
Clutch Type PVT w/EBS
Belt 3211091
Steering / Suspension
Front Suspension / Shock A--arm / MacPherson Strut
Front Travel 8.2in./21cm
Rear Suspension / Shock Progressive Rate Independent
/Two x 2” Coil--over Shock
Rear Travel 9.5 in. / 24.13 cm
Ground Clearance 11.25 in. / 28.6 cm
Shock Preload Adjustment
Front / Rear Front --Non Adjustable.
Rear -- Ratchet Style-- Std.
Turning Radius 76 in. / 193 cm unloaded
Toe Out 0 -- 1/16 in / .0 -- .159 mm
Wheels / Brakes
Wheel Size / Pattern -- Front Steel 25x8--12 / 4--156
(205/80R--12)
Wheel Size / Pattern -- Rear Steel 25x11--12 / 4--156
(270/60R--12)
Front Tire Size 25x8--12
Rear Tire Size 25x11--12
Recommended Air Pressure
F/R 5 psi Front
5 psi Rear
Brake -- Front Dual Hydraulic Disc
Brake -- Rear Dual Hydraulic Disc
(7041157) (3234199)
(3234208)
(3234208)
(5631215)
(5631214)
(7041157)
CLUTCH CHART EBS Models have no helix/spring adjustment
Altitude
Meters
(Feet)
0--1800
(0--6000)
1800--3700
(6000--12000)
Shift Drive
Spring
Driven
Helix
Weight
20--56
20--54
60--56--40
Blu/Green
Blu/Green
Driven
Spring
White 60--56--40
(3234199)
White
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.5
MODEL: 2005 SPORTSMAN 800 EFI..........
MODEL NUMBER: A05MH76AU/AW.
ENGINE MODEL: EH076OLE..
Engine
Platform Polaris Twin Cylinder
Engine Model Number EH0760LE011
Engine Displacement 760cc
Number of Cylinders 2
Bore & Stroke (mm) 80 x 68 mm
Compression Ratio 10:1
Compression Pressure 150--200 psi
Engine Idle Speed 1150 ±100 RPM
Engine Max Operating Rpm 6500 Rpm ±200 Rpm
Cooling System / Capacity Liquid -- 3.2 qt / 3 ltr
Overheat Warning HOT on Instrument Cluster
Lubrication Pressurized Wet Sump
Oil Requirements / Capacity Polaris 0W--40 2 qt. / 1.9 ltr
Exhaust System Dual Pipe / Silencer
Fuel System
Fuel System Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI)
Fuel Pump (in tank assembly) 25L per hour at 39 PSI
Fuel Filter(s) 30 Micron in Tank (not replaceable)
10 Micron In Line (replaceable)
Fuel Injector(s) Bosch
EFI Controller Bosch MSE 1.1 ECU
Fuel Capacity / Requirement 4.13 gal US / 15.6 ltr
87 Octane (minimum)
89 Oxygenated
Electrical
Alternator Output 500 w @ 6000 RPM
Lights : Pod 50 watts
Grill Two x 27 watts
Brake 8.26 watts
Tail 26.9 watts
Ignition System DC/CDI Ignition
Operating RPM 6000 RPM
Ignition Timing 13°BTDC @ 1200 RPM
Spark plug / Gap RC7YC/ .035 in./0.9 mm
Battery / Model / Amp Hr Lead Acid / 30 Amp Hr
Circuit Breakers Fan20amp--Harness20amp
Fuel pump/ECU 15 amp
Instrument Cluster / Voltage
Regulator 6 amp
Starting Electric
Instrument Cluster LCD
Drivetrain
Transmission Type Drumshift -- H/L/N/Rev/Park
Transmission Capacity 15 oz. / 450m
Rear Gearcase Capacity 5 oz. / 150ml
Front Gearcase Capacity 5 oz. / 150ml
Gear Ratio : Low
Rev
High
Front Drive
Rear Drive
7.49:1
5.11:1
2.70:1
3.82:1
3.10:1
Clutch Type PVT w/EBS
Belt 3211106
Steering / Suspension
Front Suspension / Shock A--arm / MacPherson Strut
Front Travel 6.7 in. / 17.02 cm
Rear Suspension / Shock Progressive Rate Independent
/Two x 2” Coil--over Shock
Rear Travel 9.5 in. / 24.13 cm
Ground Clearance 11.25 in. / 28.6 cm
Shock Preload Adjustment
Front / Rear Front --Non Adjustable.
Rear -- Ratchet Style-- Std.
Turning Radius 76 in. / 193 cm unloaded
Toe Out 0 -- 1/16 in / .0 -- .159 mm
Wheels / Brakes
Wheel Size / Pattern -- Front Cast Alum. 26x8--12 / 4--156
(205/80R--12)
Wheel Size / Pattern -- Rear Cast Alum. 26x11--12 / 4--156
(270/60R--12)
Front Tire Size 26x8--12
Rear Tire Size 26x11--12
Recommended Air Pressure
F/R 5 psi Front
5 psi Rear
Brake -- Front Dual Hydraulic Disc
Brake -- Rear Dual Hydraulic Disc
(7041157) 3234233
3234234
3234234
(5631689)
(5631216)
(7041157)
CLUTCH CHART EBS Models have no helix/spring adjustment
Altitude
Meters
(Feet)
0--1800
(0--6000)
1800--3700
(6000--12000)
Shift Drive
Spring
Driven
Helix
Weight
20--60
20--58
Blu/Green
Blu/Green
Driven
Spring
3234233
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.6
PUBLICATION NUMBERS
Year Model Model No. Owner’s
Manual
PN
Parts
Manual PN Parts
Micro Fiche
PN
2005 Sportsman 700 EFI A05MH68AU 9919426 9919427 9919428
2005 Sportsman 800 EFI A05MH76AU 9917720 9917721 9917722
*When ordering service parts be sure to use the correct parts manual.
NOTE: Some Polaris factory publications can be found at www.polarisindustries.com or purchased from
www.purepolaris.com.
PAINT CODES
PAINTED PART COLOR
DESCRIPTION DITZLER
NUMBER POLARIS
NUMBER
Frame Black 9440 P-067
FRAME COLOR - (All) P067 Medium Gloss Black 9440 / 8520147.
Order direct at www.polarisdealers.com (dealers only). Mix as directed.
REPLACEMENT KEYS
Replacement keys can be made from the original
key. To identify which series the key is, take the
first two digits on the original key and refer to the
chart to the right for the proper part number.
Should both keys become lost, ignition switch
replacement is required.
Series # Part Number
20 4010278
21 4010278
22 4010321
23 4010321
27 4010321
28 4010321
31 4110141
32 4110148
67 4010278
68 4010278
700 ENGINE COLD WEATHER
FROST PLUG HEATER
Frost Plug Heater for Sportsman 700/800 -- (PN 2873069)
31XX
Key Series
Number
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.7
SPECIAL TOOLS
Special Tools maybe required while servicing your
machine. Some of the tools listed are mandatory and
other tools maybe substituted with a similar tool, if
available. Polaris recommends the use of Polaris
special tools when servicing any Polaris product.
Standard Tools and Engine Tools
PU--45432 -- Caliper or
A Basic Caliper
Basic Micrometer
2871043 -- Flywheel Puller
2870773 -- C--Clip Install Tool
2870386 -- Piston Pin Puller
2871445 -- Piston Pin Puller Adapter
Standard Tools and Engine Tools
2870390 -- Piston Support Block
PV--43527 Oil Filter Wrench
PA--44995 -- Water Pump Mechanical
Seal Install Tool
PU--45543 -- Universal Driver Handle
PA--45483 -- Main Seal Installer
PA--45658 -- Main Crank Seal Saver
PA--45401 -- Water Pump Seal Saver
PU--45778 -- Oil Pump Priming Tool
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.8
SPECIAL TOOLS
Standard Tools and Engine Tools
2870303 -- Hone Kit
2870305 -- Stone Replacement Kit
2870459 -- Dial Indicator
2870588 -- Hone Oil (12 oz.)
PV--35667--A -- Cylinder Leak
down Tester
2200634 -- Valve Seat
Reconditioning Kit
Clutch (PVT) Tools
2870506 -- Drive Clutch Puller
2870913 -- Driven Clutch Puller
2872292 -- EBS Clutch Align Tool
9914177--A -- Drive Clutch Holding Tool
8700220 -- Clutch Compression Tool
2871358 -- Clutch Hold Fixture
2870341 -- Drive Clutch Spider
Removal Tool
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.9
Clutch (PVT) Tools
2870910 -- Roll Pin Tool
2871226 -- Clutch Bushing
Replacement Kit
2201379 -- EBS Bushing
Replacement Kit
2870338 -- Spider Nut Socket
2871358 -- Clutch Holding Fixture
2871025 -- Clutch Bushing Replace
Tool Kit
Suspension Tools
2870871 -- ATV Ball Joint Tool Kit
2871071 -- Shock Body Holding Tool
2870623 -- Shock Spring Compressor
2871572 -- Strut Rod Wrench
2871573 & 2871574 -- Strut
Spring Compressor
8700225 & 8700226 -- CV Boot
Clamp Pliers
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.10
Suspension Tools
2870872 -- Shock Spanner Wrench
2872608 -- Roll Pin Removal Tool
2871351 -- Shock IFP Depth Tool
Fuel & Brake Systems
2870975 -- Mity Vac
Electrical Tools
PV--43568 --Fluke 77 Multimeter
PV--39617 -- Current Clamp
2870836 -- Battery Hydrometer
8712500 --
Tachometer
RPM
PV--39951--A --
Tachometer
Electrical Tools
2870630 -- Timing Light
2871745 --Static Timing Light Harness
2460761 -- Hall Sensor Probe Harness
PV--39991 -- Peak Reading Adapter
PV--37453 -- Christie Se--Sulfating
Multi--Battery Charger
PV--63070 -- Christie Multi--Battery
Charger
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.11
STANDARD TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
The following torque specifications are to be used as a general guideline. There are exceptions in the steering,
suspension, and engine areas. Always consult the exploded views in each manual section for torque values of
fasteners before using standard torque.
Bolt Size Threads/In Grade 2 Grade 5 Grade 8
Torque in. lbs. (Nm)
#10 - 24 27 (3.1) 43 (5.0) 60 (6.9).............. ................ ..............
#10 - 32 31 (3.6) 49 (5.6) 68 (7.8).............. ................ ..............
Torque ft. lbs. (Nm)*
1/4 - 20 5 (7) 8 (11) 12 (16).............. .................. ................
1/4 - 28 6 (8) 10 (14) 14 (19).............. .................. ..............
5/16 - 18 11 (15) 17 (23) 25 (35).............. ................ ..............
5/16 - 24 12 (16) 19 (26) 29 (40).............. ................ ..............
3/8 - 16 20 (27) 30 (40) 45 (62).............. ................ ..............
3/8 - 24 23 (32) 35 (48) 50 (69).............. ................ ..............
7/16 - 14 30 (40) 50 (69) 70 (97).............. ................ ..............
7/16 - 20 35 (48) 55 (76) 80 (110).............. ................ ..............
1/2 - 13 50 (69) 75 (104) 110 (152).............. ................ .............
1/2 - 20 55 (76) 90 (124) 120 (166).............. ................ .............
Metric
6 x 1.0 72-78 In. lbs.
8 x 1.25 14-18 ft. lbs.
10 x 1.25 26-30 ft. lbs.
*To convert ft. lbs. to Nm multiply foot pounds by .1.382
*To convert Nm to ft. lbs. multiply Nm by .7376.
SPECIFIC TORQUE VALUES OF FASTENERS
Refer to exploded views in the appropriate section.
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.12
CONVERSION TABLE
Unit of Measure Multiplied by Converts to
ft. lbs. x12 =in.lbs.
in. lbs. x .0833 = ft. lbs.
ft. lbs. x 1.356 =Nm
in. lbs. x .0115 =kg-m
Nm x .7376 = ft.lbs.
kg-m x 7.233 = ft. lbs.
kg-m x 86.796 =in.lbs.
kg-m x10 =Nm
in. x 25.4 =mm
mm x .03937 =in.
in. x2.54 =cm
mile (mi.) x1.6 =km
km x .6214 = mile (mi.)
Ounces (oz) x 28.35 = Grams (g)
Fluid Ounces (fl. oz.) x 29.57 = Cubic Centimeters (cc)
Cubic Centimeters (cc) x .03381 = Fluid Ounces (fl. oz.)
Grams (g) x 0.035 = Ounces (oz)
lb. x .454 =kg
kg x 2.2046 =lb.
Cubic inches (cu in) x 16.387 = Cubic centimeters (cc)
Cubic centimeters (cc) x 0.061 = Cubic inches (cu in)
Imperial pints (Imp pt) x 0.568 = Liters (l)
Liters (l) x1.76 = Imperial pints (Imp pt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.137 = Liters (l)
Liters (l) x0.88 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x 1.201 = US quarts (US qt)
US quarts (US qt) x 0.833 = Imperial quarts (Imp qt)
US quarts (US qt) x 0.946 = Liters (l)
Liters (l) x 1.057 = US quarts (US qt)
US gallons (US gal) x 3.785 =Liters (l)
Liters (l) x 0.264 = US gallons (US gal)
Pounds - force per square inch (psi) x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa)
Kilopascals (kPa) x 0.145 = Pounds - force per square inch (psi)
Kilopascals (kPa) x0.01 = Kilograms - force per square cm
Kilograms - force per square cm x 98.1 = Kilopascals (kPa)
π (3.14) xR
2x H (height) = Cylinder Volume
°Cto°F: 9 (°C + 40) ÷5-40=°F
°Fto°C: 5 (°F + 40) ÷9-40=°C
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.13
SAE TAP DRILL SIZES
Thread Size/Drill Size Thread Size/Drill Size
#0-80 3/64
#1-64 53
#1-72 53
#2-56 51
#2-64 50
#3-48 5/64
#3-56 45
#4-40 43
#4-48 42
#5-40 38
#5-44 37
#6-32 36
#6-40 33
#8-32 29
#8-36 29
#10-24 24
#10-32 21
#12-24 17
#12-28 4.6mm
1/4-20 7
1/4-28 3
5/16-18 F
5/16-24 I
3/8-16 O
3/8-24 Q
7/16-14 U
7/16-20 25/64
1/2-13 27/64
1/2-20 29/64
9/16-12 31/64
9/16-18 33/64
5/8-11 17/32
5/8-18 37/64
3/4-10 21/32
3/4-16 11/16
7/8-9 49/64
7/8-14 13/16
1-8 7/8
1-12 59/64
1 1/8-7 63/64
1 1/8-12 1 3/64
11/4-7 17/64
1 1/4-12 1 11/64
11/2-6 111/32
1 1/2-12 1 27/64
13/4-5 19/16
1 3/4-12 1 43/64
2-4 1/2 1 25/32
2-12 1 59/64
2 1/4-4 1/2 2 1/32
21/2-4 21/4
23/4-4 21/2
3-4 2 3/4
METRIC TAP DRILL SIZES
Tap Size Drill Size Decimal
Equiva-
lent
Nearest
Fraction
3x.50
3x.60
4x.70
4x.75
5x.80
5x.90
6 x 1.00
7 x 1.00
8 x 1.00
8 x 1.25
9 x 1.00
9 x 1.25
10 x 1.25
10 x 1.50
11 x 1.50
12 x 1.50
12 x 1.75
#39
3/32
#30
1/8
#19
#20
#9
16/64
J
17/64
5/16
5/16
11/32
R
3/8
13/32
13/32
0.0995
0.0937
0.1285
0.125
0.166
0.161
0.196
0.234
0.277
0.265
0.3125
0.3125
0.3437
0.339
0.375
0.406
0.406
3/32
3/32
1/8
1/8
11/64
5/32
13/64
15/64
9/32
17/64
5/16
5/16
11/32
11/32
3/8
13/32
13/32
DECIMAL EQUIVALENTS
1/64 .0156................
1/32 .0312 1 mm = .0394″........... ...
3/64 .0469................
1/16 .0625...........
5/64 .0781 2 mm = .0787″................ ...
3/32 .0938...........
7/64 .1094 3 mm = .1181″.............. ...
1/8. .1250...
9/64 .1406................
5/32 .1563 4 mm = .1575″........... ...
11/64 .1719...............
3/16 .1875 5 mm = .1969″........... ...
13/64 .2031...............
7/32 .2188...........
15/64 .2344 6 mm = .2362″............... ...
1/4 .25....
17/64 .2656 7 mm = .2756″............... ...
9/32 .2813...........
19/64 .2969...............
5/16 .3125 8 mm = .3150″........... ...
21/64 .3281...............
11/32 .3438 9 mm = .3543″.......... ...
23/64 .3594...............
3/8 .375....
25/64 .3906 10 mm = .3937″............... ...
13/32 .4063.........
27/64 .4219 11 mm = .4331″............... ...
7/16 .4375...........
29/64 .4531...............
15/32 .4688 12 mm = .4724″......... ...
31/64 .4844...............
1/2 .5 13 mm = .5118.... ..............
33/64 .5156...............
17/32 .5313.........
35/64 .5469 14 mm = .5512″............... ...
9/16 .5625...........
37/64 .5781 15 mm = .5906″............... ...
19/32 .5938.........
39/64 .6094...............
5/8 .625 16 mm = .6299″.... ............
41/64 .6406...............
21/32 .6563 17 mm = .6693″......... ...
43/64 .6719
..............
11/16 .6875..........
45/64 .7031 18 mm = .7087″............... ...
23/32 .7188.........
47/64 .7344 19 mm = .7480″............... ...
3/4 .75....
49/64 .7656...............
25/32 .7813 20 mm = .7874″......... ...
51/64 .7969...............
13/16 .8125 21 mm = .8268″......... ...
53/64 .8281...............
27/32 .8438.........
55/64 .8594 22 mm = .8661″............... ...
7/8 .875....
57/64 .8906 23 mm = .9055″............... ...
29/32 .9063.........
59/64 .9219..............
15/16 .9375 24 mm = .9449″......... ...
61/64 .9531...............
31/32 .9688 25 mm = .9843......... ...
63/64 .9844...............
11.0.....
GENERAL INFORMATION
1.14
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
ABDC: After bottom dead center.
ACV: Alternating current voltage.
Alternator: Electrical generator producing voltage alternating current.
ATDC: After top dead center.
BBDC: Before bottom dead center.
BDC: Bottom dead center.
BTDC: Before top dead center.
CC: Cubic centimeters.
Center Distance: Distance between center of crankshaft and center of driven clutch shaft.
Chain Pitch: Distance between chain link pins (No. 35 = 3/8″or 1 cm). Polaris measures chain length in number of pitches.
Crankshaft Run-Out: Run-out or “bend” of crankshaft measured with a dial indicator while crankshaft is supported
between centers on V blocks or resting in crankcase. Measure at various points especially at PTO.
DCV: Direct current voltage.
Electrical Open: Open circuit. An electrical circuit which isn’t complete.
Electrical Short: Short circuit. An electrical circuit which is completed before the current reaches the intended
load. (i.e. a bare wire touching the chassis).
End Seals: Rubber seals at each end of the crankshaft.
Engagement RPM: Engine RPM at which the drive clutch engages to make contact with the drive belt.
ft.: Foot/feet.
Foot Pound: Ft. lb. A force of one pound at the end of a lever one foot in length, applied in a rotational direction.
g: Gram. Unit of weight in the metric system.
gal.: Gallon.
ID: Inside diameter.
in.: Inch/inches.
Inch Pound: In. lb. 12 in. lbs. = 1 ft. lb.
kg/cm 2:Kilograms per square centimeter.
kg-m: Kilogram meters.
Kilogram/meter: A force of one kilogram at the end of a lever one meter in length, applied in a rotational direction.
lorltr: Liter.
Left Side: Always referred to based on normal operating position of the driver.
m: Meter/meters.
Mag: Magneto.
Magnetic Induction: As a conductor (coil) is moved through a magnetic field, a voltage will be generated in the windings.
Mechanical energy is converted to electrical energy in the stator.
mi.: Mile/miles.
mm: Millimeter. Unit of length in the metric system. 1mm = approximately .040″.
Nm: Newton meters.
OD: Outside diameter.
Ohm: The unit of electrical resistance opposing current flow.
oz.: Ounce/ounces.
Piston Clearance: Total distance between piston and cylinder wall.
psi.: Pounds per square inch.
PTO: Power take off.
qt.: Quart/quarts.
RPM: Revolutions per minute.
Regulator: Voltage regulator. Regulates battery charging system output at approx. 14.5 DCV as engine RPM increases.
Resistance: In the mechanical sense, friction or load. In the electrical sense, ohms. Both result in energy
conversion to heat.
Right Side: Always referred to based on normal operating position of the driver.
RPM: Revolutions per minute.
Seized Piston: Galling of the sides of a piston. Usually there is a transfer of aluminum from the piston onto the cylinder
wall. Possible causes: 1) improper lubrication; 2) excessive temperatures; 3) insufficient piston clearance; 4) stuck
piston rings.
Stator Plate: The plate mounted under the flywheel supporting the battery charging coils.
TDC: Top dead center. Piston’s most outward travel from crankshaft.
Volt: The unit of measure for electrical pressure of electromotive force. Measured by a voltmeter in parallel with the circuit.
Watt: Unit of electrical power. Watts = amperes x volts.
WOT: Wide open throttle.
MAINTENANCE
2.1
Periodic Maintenance Chart 2.2-2.5...............
Component Locations 2.6....................
Lubricant and Maintenance Product Numbers 2.7
Special Tools 2.8............................
Lubrication Charts 2.9-2.10........................
Front & Rear Gearcase Lubrication 2.11-2.12.........
Transmission Lubrication 2.13..................
Throttle Cable Adjustment 2.14.................
Transmission Linkage Inspection 2.15...........
Fuel System 2.15.............................
Compression Test 2.15-2.16........................
Battery Maintenance 2.16-2.17......................
Ignition 2.17..................................
Coolant System Maintenance 2.18-2.20..............
Radiator Screen Removal 2.20.................
Air Filter Service 2.20-2.21.........................
Air Box Sediment Tube Service 2.21............
Breather Filter 2.21-2.22...........................
PVT Drying & PVT Drain Plug 2.22..............
Oil Change/Filter 2.23-2.24.........................
Steering and Toe Alignment 2.25-2.27...............
Exhaust System Maintenance 2.27-2.28.............
Brake System Service 2.28-2.29....................
Suspension Service 2.29-2.30......................
Controls 2.30.................................
Wheel/Tire --Removal/Installation/Inspection 2.31-2.32.
Warn®Winch Operation 2.33-2.34..................
Cleaning and Storage 2.35-2.36.....................
800 EFI Exhaust Canister Maintenance 2.36.....
MAINTENANCE
2.2
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART
Careful periodic maintenance will help keep your vehicle in the safest, most reliable condition. Inspection,
adjustment and lubrication of important components are explained in the periodic maintenance chart.
Inspect, clean, lubricate, adjust and replace parts as necessary. When inspection reveals the need for
replacement parts, use genuine Polaris parts available from your Polaris dealer.
NOTE: Service and adjustments are critical. If you’re not familiar with safe service and adjustment
procedures, have a qualified dealer perform these operations.
Maintenance intervals in the following chart are based upon average riding conditions and an average vehicle
speed of approximately 10 miles per hour. Vehicles subjected to severe use must be inspected and serviced more
frequently.
Severe Use Definition
GFrequent immersion in mud, water or sand
GRacing or race-style high RPM use
GProlonged low speed, heavy load operation
GExtended idle
GShort trip cold weather operation
Pay special attention to the oil level. A rise in oil level during cold weather can indicate contaminants collecting
in the oil sump or crankcase. Change oil immediately if the oil level begins to rise. Monitor the oil level, and if
it continues to rise, discontinue use and determine the cause or see your dealer.
Maintenance Chart Key
The following symbols denote potential items to be aware of during maintenance:
H=CAUTION: Due to the nature of these adjustments, it is recommended this service be performed
by an authorized Polaris dealer.
"=SEVERE USE ITEM ----If vehicle is subjected to severe use, decrease interval by 50%
(Severe Use is defined as frequent vehicle immersion in mud, water or sand, racing or race- style high rpm
use, prolonged low speed - heavy load operation or extended idle. More preventative maintenance is
required under these conditions. Fluid changes, cable, chain and chassis lubrication are required more
frequently. For engine oil, short trip cold weather riding also constitutes severe use.Pay special attention
to oil level. A rising oil level in cold weather can indicate contaminants collecting in the oil sump or
crankcase. Change oil immediately and monitor level. If oil level begins to rise, discontinue use and
determine cause.)
E=Emission Control System Service (California).
NOTE: Inspection may reveal the need for replacement parts. Always use genuine Polaris parts.
WARNING: Improperly performing the procedures marked with a Jcould result in component failure and lead
to serious injury or death. Have an authorized Polaris dealer perform these services.
MAINTENANCE
2.3
MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION
Periodic Maintenance Chart
Item Maintenance Interval
(whichever comes first) Remarks
Hours Calendar Miles
(Km)
JSteering -- Pre-Ride -- Make adjustments as needed. See Pre-Ride
C
h
k
l
i
t
P
1
7
"Front suspension -- Pre-Ride --
j
Checklist on Page 1.7.
"Rear suspension -- Pre-Ride --
Tires -- Pre-Ride --
"Brake fluid level -- Pre-Ride --
"Brake lever travel -- Pre-Ride --
Brake systems -- Pre-Ride --
Wheels/fasteners -- Pre-Ride --
Frame fasteners -- Pre-Ride --
"
EEngine oil level -- Pre-Ride --
"
EAir filter, pre-filter -- Daily -- Inspect; clean often
"
EAir box sediment
tube -- Daily -- Drain deposits when visible
Coolant
(if applicable) -- Daily -- Check level daily, change coolant every 2 years
Headlamp/tail
lamp -- Daily -- Check operation; apply dielectric grease if re-
placing
"
EAir filter,
main element -- Weekly -- Inspect; replace as needed
Recoil housing
(if applicable) -- Weekly -- Drain water as needed, check often if operating
in wet conditions
"
J
Brake pad wear 10 H Monthly 60 (100) Inspect periodically
Battery 20 H Monthly 125 (200) Check terminals; clean; test
"Front gearcase oil
(if equipped) 25 H Monthly 155 (250) Inspect level; change yearly
"Middle gearcase
oil (if equipped) 25 H Monthly 155 (250) Inspect level; change yearly
"Rear gearcase oil
(if equipped) 25 H Monthly 155 (250) Inspect level; change yearly
"Transmission oil 25 H Monthly 155 (250) Inspect level; change yearly
"Perform these procedures more often for vehicles
subjected to severe use.
EEmission Control System Service (California)
JHave an authorized Polaris dealer perform these
services.
MAINTENANCE
2.4
MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION
Periodic Maintenance Chart
Item Maintenance Interval
(whichever comes first) Remarks
Hours Calendar Miles
(Km)
"
EEngine breather
filter (if equipped) 25 H Monthly 155 (250) Inspect; replace if necessary
"
EEngine oil change
(break-in) 25 H 1M 155 (250) Perform a break-in oil change at one month
"General
lubrication 50 H 3M 310 (500) Lubricate all fittings, pivots, cables, etc.
Shift Linkage 50 H 6M 310 (500) Inspect, lubricate, adjust
JSteering 50 H 6M 310 (500) Lubricate
"Front suspension 50 H 6M 310 (500) Lubricate
"Rear suspension 50 H 6M 310 (500) Lubricate
J
EThrottle Cable/
ETC Switch 50 H 6M 310 (500) Inspect; adjust; lubricate; replace if necessary
EAir intake ducts/
flange 50 H 6M 310 (500) Inspect ducts for proper sealing/air leaks
Drive belt 50 H 6M 310 (500) Inspect; adjust; replace as needed
Cooling system
(if applicable) 50 H 6M 310 (500) Inspect coolant strength
seasonally; pressure test
system yearly
"
EEngine oil change 100 H 6M 620
(1000) Perform a break-in oil change at 25 hours/one
month
"
EOil filter change 100 H 6M 620
(1000) Replace with oil change
"
EOil tank vent hose 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect routing, condition
J
EValve clearance 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect;
"Perform these procedures more often for vehicles
subjected to severe use.
EEmission Control System Service (California)
JHave an authorized Polaris dealer perform these
services.
MAINTENANCE
2.5
MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION
Periodic Maintenance Chart
Item Maintenance Interval
(whichever comes first) Remarks
Hours Calendar Miles
(Km)
J
EFuel system 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Check for leaks at tank cap, lines, fuel pump,
filter, pump, injectors; replace lines every two
years
J
EFuel filter 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Replace yearly
"Radiator
(if applicable) 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect; clean external
surfaces
"Cooling hoses
(if applicable) 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect for leaks
"Engine mounts 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect
Exhaust muffler/
pipe 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect
J
ESpark plug 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect; replace as needed
J
EIgnition Timing 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect
"Wiring 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect for wear, routing,
security; apply dielectric grease to connectors
subjected to water, mud, etc.
JClutches (drive
and driven) 100 H 12 M 620
(1000) Inspect; clean; replace worn parts
JFront wheel
bearings 100 H 12 M 1000
(1600) Inspect; replace as needed
JBrake fluid 200 H 24 M 1240
(2000) Change every two years
Spark arrestor 300 H 36 M 1860
(3000) Clean out
EIdle speed -- Adjust as needed
JToe adjustment -- Inspect periodically; adjust when parts are re-
placed
"
J
Auxiliary brake -- Inspect daily; adjust as needed
Headlight aim -- Adjust as needed
"Perform these procedures more often for vehicles
subjected to severe use.
EEmission Control System Service (California)
JHave an authorized Polaris dealer perform these
services.
MAINTENANCE
2.6
SPORTSMAN COMPONENT LOCATIONS
Front Gearcase
PVT Cover Drain
Front Prop Shaft
(Behind Radiator)
(Between Transmission
and Front Gearcase)
Front Drive Shafts
Right Side View
Transmission
Rear Storage Compartment
Front Storage
Compartment
&Rack
Gas Cap
Gear Shifter
Brake Lever
Ignition/Key
EFI Diagnostic
Plug Cover
Brake Fluid Reservoir
Instrument Cluster
(Speedometer)
Light Control
& Run Switch Reverse
Override Throttle
AWD Switch
Work light
Oil Dipstick
Muffler
Auxiliary Brake
MAINTENANCE
2.7
POLARIS LUBRICANTS/FLUIDS FOR SPORTSMAN MODELS
Pure Polaris Lubricants and Maintenance Kits can be purchased at your local Polaris dealer.
2202166 -- Sportsman 600/700 Oil Change Kit
-- Oil Filter & 2 Qts. of 0W--40 oil
-- Instruction Sheet
2859066 -- Sportsman 600/700 Maintenance Kit
-- Oil Filter & 2 Qts. of 0W--40 oil
-- D r i v e B e l t
-- PVT Cover Seal
-- Spark Plug
-- Instruction Sheet
ATV ANGLE DRIVE FLUID
MAINTENANCE
2.8
SPECIAL TOOLS
PART NUMBER TOOL DESCRIPTION CHAPTER TOOL USED IN
PV--43527 Oil Filter Wrench 2,3
2870872 Shock Spanner Wrench 2, 5
8712100 or 8712500 Tachometer 2,10
2200634 Valve Seat Reconditioning Kit 3
PU--45257 Valve Spring Compressor 3
PU--45652 Valve Pressure Hose 3
2871043 Flywheel Puller 3
2870390 Piston Support Block 3
PU--45497--2 Cam Gear Tooth Alignment Tool 3
PU--45497--1 Cam Gear Spring Installation Kit (3 Tapered Pins) 3
PU--45498 Cam Spanner Wrench 3
PU--45838 Gear Holder 3
PA--44995 Water Pump Mechanical Seal Installer 3
PU--45543 Universal Drive Handle 3
PU--45483 Main Seal Installer 3
PU--45658 Main Crankshaft Seal Saver 3
PA--45401 Water Pump Seal Saver 3
PU--45778 Oil System Priming Tool 3
2870975 Mity VactPressure Test Tool 3, 9
PU--43506 Fuel Pressure Test Kit 4
PU--47082 Throttle Position Sensor Tester 4
2870871 Ball Joint Replacement Tool 5
2870623 Shock Absorber Spring Compression Tool 5
2871572 Strut Rod Wrench 5
2871573 LH Strut Spring Compressor 5
2871574 RH Strut Spring Compressor 5
2870506 Clutch Puller 6
9314177 Clutch Holding Wrench 6
2871358 Clutch Holding Fixture 6
2870341 Drive Clutch Spider Removal and Install Tool 6
2870913 Driven Clutch Puller 6
2870910 Roller Pin Tool 6
2871226 Clutch Bushing Replacement Tool Kit 6
2870386 Piston Pin Puller 6
2872292 EBS Clutch Alignment Tool 6
PU--47086 and 8700220 Clutch Compression Tool 6
2871025 Clutch Bushing Replacement Tool Kit 6
2872608 Roller Pin Removal Tool 7
8700226 CV Boot Clamp Pliers 7
PV--43568 Fluket77 Digital Multimeter 10
2870630 Timing Light 10
2870836 Battery Hydrometer 10
*Special Tools Can be ordered through SPX Corporation (www.polaris.spx.com)
MAINTENANCE
2.9
LUBRICATION
* More often under severe use, such as operated in water or under severe loads.
¡Semi-annually or 50 hours of operation (refer to Maintenance Schedule for additional information)
More often under severe conditions (operating in water or hauling heavy loads)
©Annually or 100 hours of operation (refer to Maintenance Schedule for additional information)
More often under severe conditions (operating in water or hauling heavy loads)
¢Grease conforming to NLGI No. 2, such as Polaris Premium All Season Grease, Conoco Superlube M or
Mobilegrease Special
Ill.
#Item Lube Rec. Method Frequency*
1. Engine Oil Polaris 0W--40
Synthetic Check dipstick and add to
proper level. Change after 1st month, 6 months or 100
hours thereafter; Change more often
(25-50 hours) in extremely dirty condi-
tions, or short trip cold weather operation.
2. Transmis-
sion Polaris AGL Gear-
case Lubricant Add lube to bottom of fill hole. Change annually ©
3. Front Gear
Case Premium Demand
Drive Hub Fluid Drain completely. Add lube to spe-
cified quantity. Change annually ©
4. Rear Gear
Case ATV Angle Drive
Fluid Drain completely. Add lube to spe-
cified quantity. Change annually ©
5. Brake Fluid Polaris Dot 3 Brake
Fluid Fill master cylinder reservoir to in-
dicated level inside reservoir. As required. Change fluid every 2 years
2. Transmission
1. Engine Oil
5. Brake Fluid (Left hand Master Cylinder)
3. Front Gear Case Fill Plug
Fill Plug
4. Rear Gear Case Fill Plug
Master Cylinder
Reservoir
Dipstick/Fill Tube
Fill / Check
Drain Plug
Drain Plug
Fill / Check
Drain Plug
0W/40
AGL
DHF
ADF
MAINTENANCE
2.10
LUBRICATION, CONT.
7. Front Hub strut
6. Front Prop Shaft
U-Joint
Front Hubstrut (All Models)
Ill.
#Item Lube Rec. Method Frequency*
6. Front Prop Shaft Polaris U-Joint
Grease¢
Locate grease fitting and
grease with grease gun. Semi-annually ¡
7. Front Hub strut Polaris All Season
Grease¢
Locate fitting and grease Semi-annually ¡
* More often under severe use, such as operated in water or under severe loads.
¡Semi-annually or 50 hours of operation (refer to Maintenance Schedule for additional information)
More often under severe conditions (operating in water or hauling heavy loads)
©Annually or 100 hours of operation (refer to Maintenance Schedule for additional information)
More often under severe conditions (operating in water or hauling heavy loads)
¢Grease conforming to NLGI No. 2, such as Polaris Premium All Season Grease, Conoco Superlube M or
Mobilegrease Special
MAINTENANCE
2.11
FRONT GEARCASE LUBRICATION
The gearcase lubricant level should be checked and
changed in accordance with the maintenance
schedule.
GBe sure vehicle is level before proceeding and in
PARK.
GCheck vent hose to be sure it is routed properly
and unobstructed.
GThe correct front gearcase lubricant to use is
Polaris Premium Demand Hub Fluid.
Specified Lubricant:
Capacity:.........5.0 Oz. (150 ml.)
FRONT GEARCASE SPECIFICATIONS
Premium Demand Drive Hub Fluid
(PN 2871654)
Fill Plug Torque: 8--10 ft.lbs. (11--14 Nm)
Drain Plug Torque: 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)
Fill plug
Make sure vent is unobstructed
Drain plug
FRONT GEARCASE
ILL. 1
11 ft.lbs.
(15 Nm)
8--10 ft.lbs.
(11--14 Nm)
To check the lubricant level:
The front and rear gearcase lubricant level cannot be
checked with a dipstick. The gearcase must be
drained and re-filled with the proper amount of
lubricant or be filled to the bottom of the fill plug hole
threads. Refer to procedures.
To change gearcase lubricant:
11 ft.lbs (15 Nm)
A
B
1. Remove gearcase drain plug (A) (11 mm) located
on the bottom of the gearcase and drain oil. (The
drain plug is accessible through the skid plate.)
Catch and discard used oil properly.
2. Clean and reinstall drain plug (A) using a new
sealing washer Toque to 11 ft.lbs. (15 Nm).
Fill Plug
Left Side View Front Wheel
3. Remove fill plug (8 mm hex). Check the O--ring.
4. Fill with the recommended fluid amount (5 oz.) or
to the bottom of the fill plug hole threads. (See ILL.
3).
Plug Threads
Fill with 5 oz. lubricant
or bottom of fill plug
threads.
Front Gearcase
ILL. 3
5. Install / torque fill plug and check for leaks.
MAINTENANCE
2.12
REAR GEARCASE
LUBRICATION
The gearcase lubricant level should be checked and
changed in accordance with the maintenance
schedule.
GBe sure vehicle is level and in Park before
proceeding.
GCheck vent hose to be sure it is routed properly
and unobstructed.
GThe correct rear gearcase lubricant to use is
Polaris ATV Angle Drive Fluid.
Specified Lubricant:
ATV Angle Drive Fluid (PN 2871653)
Capacity: 5 Oz. (150 ml.)
Drain Plug / Fill Plug Torque:
14 ft. lbs. (19.4 Nm)
REAR GEARCASE SPECIFICATIONS
To Check Lubricant Level:
Place the ATV on a level surface and in Park. The rear
gearcase fluid level should be level with the bottom of
the fill plug threads. Refer to the bottom illustration 2.
Fill to bottom of
fill plug threads
REAR GEARCASE
Ill. 2
To Change Lubricant:
1. Remove gearcase drain plug located on the
bottom of the gearcase and drain oil. (The drain
plug is accessible through the skid plate.) Catch
and discard used oil properly.
A
B
2. Clean and reinstall drain plug (A) using a new
sealing washer (B).
3. Remove fill plug (C).
4. Fill with the recommended fluid amount or fill to
the bottom of the fill plug hole threads.
5. Install fill plug and check for leaks.
Make sure vent is unobstructed
(A) Drain plug
REAR GEARCASE
ILL. 1
(C) Fill Plug
MAINTENANCE
2.13
TRANSMISSION LUBRICATION
The transmission lubricant level should be checked
and changed in accordance with the maintenance
schedule.
GBe sure the vehicle is level before proceeding.
GCheck vent hose to be sure it is not kinked or
obstructed.
GFollow instructions to check / change transmission
lubricant.
To check the level:
1. Remove fill plug from the back of the transmission
and visually inspect the oil level. Level is correct
when it reaches the bottom of the fill hole as
shown at below.
To change lubricant:
1. Remove transmission drain plug to drain the oil.
Catch and discard used oil properly.
2. Clean and reinstall the drain plug. Torque to
specification.
3. Remove fill plug.
4. Add 15 oz. of Polaris AGL Gearcase Lubricant or
fill to top of the fill plug hole threads.
5. Check for leaks.
6. Reinstall fill plug and torque to 10--14 ft.lbs.
(14--19 Nm).
TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS
Specified Lubricant:
Polaris AGL Gearcase Lubricant
(PN 2873603) (gal.) (PN 2873602) (12oz.)
Capacity: 15 oz. (450 ml.)
Drain Plug / Fill Plug Torque:
10--14 ft. lbs. (14--19 Nm)
View From Back
Fill Plug
Drain Plug
Transmission Fill Plug
Fill to the Bottom of Fill Plug Hole Threads
Proper Oil Level
MAINTENANCE
2.14
THROTTLE CABLE /
ELECTRONIC THROTTLE
CONTROL (ETC SWITCH)
ADJUSTMENT
1. Slide boot off throttle cable adjuster and jam nut.
2. Place shift selector in neutral and set parking
brake.
3. Loosen lock nut on in-line cable adjuster (Ill. 1).
Boot Adjuster
Sleeve Lock-
nut Boot
Ill. 1
4. Turn adjuster until 1/16″to 1/8″freeplay is
achieved at thumb lever. (Ill. 2). After making
adjustments, quickly actuate the thumb lever
several times and reverify freeplay.
1/16″-1/8″
Freeplay
Direction
of travel
Ill. 2
5. Tighten lock nut securely and slide boot
completely in place to ensure a water-tight seal.
6. Turn handlebars from left to right through the
entire turning range. If idle speed increases,
check for proper cable routing. If cable is routed
properly and in good condition, repeat adjustment
procedure.
THROTTLE INSPECTION
Check for smooth throttle opening and closing in all
handlebar positions. Throttle lever operation should
be smooth and lever must return freely without
binding.
1. Place the gear selector in neutral.
2. Set parking brake.
3. Start the engine and let it idle.
4. Turn handlebars from full right to full left. If idle
speed increases at any point in the turning range,
inspect throttle cable routing and condition. Adjust
cable tension as needed until lock--to--lock turning
can be accomplished with no rise in engine rpm.
5. Replace the throttle cable if worn, kinked, or
damaged.
To remove the ETC cover:
1. Use a medium flat blade screwdriver and insert
blade into the pocket of the cover starting on the
#1 position.
2. Twist screwdriver slightly while lifting on the cover
to release snap.
3. Repeat procedure at the other five locations as
shown.
NOTE: Do not attempt to remove cover until all
latch points are released.
1
2
3
4
5
6
5
6
ETC Cover
Removal Sequence
Ill. 1
MAINTENANCE
2.15
SHIFT LINKAGE INSPECTION
NOTE: Shift rod is preset at time of manufacture.
Shift Linkage Rod
1. Inspect shift linkage tie rod ends, clevis pins, and
pivot bushings and replace if worn or damaged.
Lubricate the tie rod ends with a light aerosol
lubricant or grease.
2. Note orientation of tie rod end studs with the ends
that are up down (vertical). Remove both rod end
bolts from transmission bell crank.
Shifter
Shifter Mount
Shift Linkage Rod
VENT LINES
Check fuel tank, oil tank, carburetor, battery and
transmission vent lines for signs of wear,
deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace every two
years.
Be sure vent lines are routed properly and secured
with cable ties. CAUTION: Make sure lines are not
kinked or pinched.
FUEL FILTER
The fuel filter should be replaced in accordance with
the Periodic Maintenance Chart.
1. Relieve the pressure on the fuel rail. (See Ch. 4)
2. Remove line clamps at both ends of the filter.
3. Remove fuel lines from filter.
4. Install new filter with arrow pointed in direction of
fuel flow.
5. Install clamps on fuel line.
6. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
COMPRESSION TEST
NOTE: This engine does NOT have decompression
components. Compression readings will vary in
proportion to cranking speed during the test. Average
compression (measured) is about 150-200 psi during
a compression test.
A smooth idle generally indicates good compression.
Low engine compression is rarely a factor in running
condition problems above idle speed. Abnormally
high compression can be caused by carbon deposits
in the combustion chamber or worn, damaged
exhaust cam lobes. Inspect camshaft and
combustion chamber if compression is abnormally
high.
MAINTENANCE
2.16
A cylinder leakdown test is the best indication of
engine condition. Follow manufacturer’s instructions
to perform a cylinder leakage test. (Never use high
pressure leakage testers, as crankshaft seals may
dislodge and leak).
Cylinder Leakdown
Service Limit 15 %
(Inspect for cause if leakage exceeds 15%)
Cylinder Compression
Standard: 150-200 PSI
ENGINE MOUNTS
Inspect rubber engine mounts (A) for cracks or
damage. (Ill.3)
Check engine fasteners and ensure they are tight.
Ill. 3
A
A
A
BATTERY MAINTENANCE
WARNING
Battery electrolyte is poisonous. It contains
sulfuric acid. Serious burns can result from
contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Anti-
dote:
External: Flush with water.
Internal: Drink large quantities of water or
milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten
egg, or vegetable oil. Call physician im-
mediately.
Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and
get prompt medical attention.
Batteries produce explosive gases. Keep
sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Venti-
late when charging or using in an enclosed
space. Always shield eyes when working
near batteries. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF
CHILDREN.
NOTE: New Batteries: Batteries must be fully
charged before use or battery life will be reduced
by 10-30% of full potential.Charge battery for 3--5
hours at a current equivalent of 1/10 of the
battery’s rated amp/hour capacity. Do not use the
alternator to charge a new battery. (Refer to battery
video PN 9917987)
The battery is located under the seat.
Inspect the battery fluid level. When the electrolyte
nears the lower level, remove the battery and add
distilled water only to the upper level line. (Ill.1)
Maintain
between upper
and lower level
marks
Ill. 1
MAINTENANCE
2.17
To remove the battery:
1. Disconnect holder strap and remove cover.
2. Disconnect battery negative (-) (black) cable first,
followed by the positive (+) (red) cable.
CAUTION
To reduce the chance of sparks: Whenever
removing the battery, disconnect the negative
(black) cable first. When reinstalling the battery,
install the negative cable last.
3. Disconnect the vent hose.
4. Remove the battery.
5. (Conventional Batteries Only) Remove the
filler caps and add distilled water only as needed
to bring each cell to the proper level. Do not
overfill the battery. Fully recharge after filling.
Use only distilled water. Tap water contains
minerals which are harmful to a battery.
Do not allow cleaning solution or tap water to
enter the battery, as it will shorten the life of the
battery.
6. Reinstall the battery caps.
7. Clean battery cables and terminals with a stiff wire
brush. Corrosion can be removed using a
solution of one cup water and one tablespoon
baking soda. Rinse well with clean water and dry
thoroughly.
8. Reinstall battery, attaching positive (+) (red) cable
first and then the negative (-) (black) cable.
9. Reattach vent hose making sure it is properly
routed and not kinked or pinched.
10. Coat terminals and bolt threads with Dielectric
Grease (PN 2871329).
11. Reinstall battery cover and holder strap.
SPARK PLUG
1. Clean plug area so no dirt and debris can fall into
engine when plug is removed. Remove spark
plug high tension lead.
2. Remove spark plug.
3. Inspect electrodes for wear and carbon buildup.
Look for a sharp outer edge with no rounding or
erosion of the electrodes.
Inspect electrode for
wear and buildup
4. Clean with electrical contact cleaner or a glass
bead spark plug cleaner only. CAUTION: A wire
brush or coated abrasive should not be used.
5. Measure gap with a wire gauge. Refer to
specifications for proper spark plug type and gap.
Adjust gap if necessary by bending the side
electrode carefully. (Illustration below)
6. If necessary, replace spark plug with proper type.
CAUTION: Severe engine damage may occur if
the incorrect spark plug is used.
7. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to
the spark plug threads.
8. Install spark plug and torque to specification.
Recommended Spark Plug:
Refer to Specifications Chapter 1
Spark Plug Torque:
18 Ft. Lbs. (24 Nm)
.036″(0.9 mm)
Spark Plug Gap
IGNITION TIMING
Refer to Chapter 10 for ignition timing procedures.
MAINTENANCE
2.18
ENGINE-TO-FRAME GROUND
Inspect engine-to-frame ground cable connection. Be
sure it is clean and tight.
Typical Ground Cable
LIQUID COOLING SYSTEM
OVERVIEW
The engine coolant level is controlled or maintained
by the recovery system. The recovery system
components are the recovery bottle, radiator filler
neck, radiator pressure cap and connecting hose.
As coolant operating temperature increases, the
expanding(heated)excesscoolantisforcedoutofthe
radiator past the pressure cap and into the recovery
bottle. Asenginecoolanttemperaturedecreasesthe
contracting(cooled)coolantisdrawnbackupfromthe
tank past the pressure cap and into the radiator.
GSome coolant level drop on new
machinesisnormalas thesystemis
purgingitselfoftrappedair. Observe
coolant levels often during the
break-in period.
GOverheating of engine could occur if
air is not fully purged from system.
GPolarisPremium60/40anti--freezeis
premixed and ready to use. Do not
dilute with water.
COOLANT STRENGTH / TYPE
Test the strength of the coolant using an antifreeze
hydrometer.
Antifreeze Hydrometer
GA 50/50 or 60/40 mixture of
antifreeze and distilled water will
provide the optimum cooling,
corrosion protection, and antifreeze
protection.
GDo not use tap water. Tap water
contains minerals and impurities
which build up in the system. Do not
add straight antifreeze or straight
water to the system. Straight water
or antifreeze may cause the system
to freeze, corrode, or overheat.
Polaris 60/40 Anti-Freeze / Coolant
(PN 2871323)
MAINTENANCE
2.19
COOLING SYSTEM HOSES
Inspect all hoses for cracks, deterioration, abrasionor
leaks. Replace if necessary.
Lower Radiator Hose
Upper Radiator
Hose
Coolant Bottle
Fan
1. Check tightness of all hose clamps.
2. Do not over-tighten hose clamps at radiator or
radiator fitting may distort, causing a restriction or
leak. Radiator hose clamp torque is 36 in. lbs. (4
Nm).
RADIATOR
1. Check radiator external air flow passages for
restrictions or damage.
2. Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins.
3. Remove any obstructions with compressed air or
low pressure water.
COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE TEST
Refer to Chapter 3 for pressure test procedures.
COOLANT LEVEL
INSPECTION
WARNING
Never remove the radiator pressure cap when the
engine is warm orhot. Escaping steam and fluid can
cause severe burns. The engine must be allowed to
cool before removing the pressure cap.
The recovery bottle, located on the left side of the
machine, mustbemaintainedbetweentheminimum
and maximum levels indicated. (Ill.1)
With the engine at operating temperature, the coolant
level should be between the upper and lower marks
on the coolant reservoir. If it is not:
1. Remove reservoir cap. Verify the inner splash
cap vent hole is clear and open.
2. Fill reservoir to upper mark with Polaris Premium
60/40 Anti Freeze / Coolant (PN 2871323)ora
mixture of antifreeze and distilled water as
required for freeze protection in your area.
3. Reinstall cap.
NOTE: If overheating is evident, allow system to cool
completely and check coolant level in the radiator.
Inspect for signs of trapped air in system.
Recovery Bottle
Accessible Under
Side Panel
Ill.1
RADIATOR COOLANT LEVEL
INSPECTION
WARNING
Never remove the radiator pressure cap when the
engine is warm orhot. Escaping steam and fluid can
cause severe burns. The engine must be allowed to
cool before removing the pressure cap.
NOTE: This procedure is only required if the cooling
system has been drained for maintenance and/or
repair. However, if the recovery bottle has run dry, or
if overheating is evident, the level in the radiator
should be inspected via the radiator cap first and
coolant added if necessary.
NOTE: Use of a non-standard pressure cap will not
allow the recovery system to function properly.
MAINTENANCE
2.20
To access the radiator pressure cap:
Remove the four screws securing front rack. Turn
handle bars full left or right to provide more clearance.
Remove front cover by placing your fingers under the
front of the cover and pulling upward.
Remove
Cover
Radiator
Cap
RADIATOR SCREEN
REMOVAL
1. Pull out slightly on the top of the radiator screen.
2. With the top free, pull out on the bottom of the
screen to remove the screen.
3. To install the screen, simply press the tabs on the
screen back into the mounting grommets. Be
sure the screen is securely in place.
AIR FILTER/PRE-FILTER
SERVICE
It is recommended that the air filter and pre filter be
replaced annually. When riding in extremely dusty
conditions, replacement is required more often.
The pre filter should be cleaned before each ride using
the following procedure:
1. Lift up on the rear of the seat.
2. Pull the seat back and free of the tabs. NOTE:
When reinstalling seat, make sure the slots in the
seat engage the tabs in the fuel tank.
3. Remove clips (A) from air box cover and remove
cover. Inspect the gasket. It should adhere tightly
to the cover and seal all the way around.
A
4. Loosen clamp and remove air filter
assembly.
Gasket
Cover
Pre-filter
Main Element
Ill.1
Cleaning:
5. Slip the pre-filter element off of main element.
Clean the pre filter with high flash point solvent,
followed by hot soapy water.
6. Rinse and dry thoroughly.
7. Inspect element for tears or damage.
8. Apply foam filter oil or clean engine oil and
squeeze until excess oil is removed.
MAINTENANCE
2.21
9. Inspect main filter and replace if necessary. If the
filter has been soaked with fuel or oil it must be
replaced.
Installation:
10. Reinstall pre-filter element over main filter. Be
sure the element covers entire surface of main
filter without folds, creases, or gaps.
11. Reinstall filter on main filter mount. Place filter
clamp over the assembly and tighten.
NOTE: Apply a small amount of general purpose
grease to the sealing edges of the filter before
reinstalling.
Filter Clamp
Ill.2
Main Filter
Filter Support
Front
Air Box
Proper Filter Placement
Ill.3
NOTE: The air filter should rest on the filter support.
Proper placement of the air filter is important to
prevent rattles and air leaks. See Illustration above.
12. Install air box cover and secure with clips.
AIR BOX SEDIMENT TUBE
Periodically check the air box drain tube located
toward the rear of the machine. Drain whenever
deposits are visible in the clear tube.
1. Remove drain plug from end of sediment tube.
2. Drain tube.
3. Reinstall drain plug.
Sediment Tube
Ill.1
NOTE: The sediment tube will require more frequent
service if the vehicle is operated in wet conditions or
at high throttle openings for extended periods.
MAINTENANCE
2.22
BREATHER HOSE
1. Be sure breather line is routed properly and
secured in place. CAUTION: Make sure lines are
not kinked or pinched.
PVT DRYING & PVT DRAIN
PLUG
NOTE: If operating the ATV in or through water, be
sure to check the PVT cover and other components
for water ingestion. The ATV should be checked
immediately.
1. To release any water that maybe trapped in the
PVT cover, simply remove the PVT drain plug and
O--ring located on the bottom of the PVT cover
and let the water drain out. The PVT drain plug is
shown below.
PVT Drain Plug & O--ring
Ill.3
2. To further expel water from the cover and to dry
out the PVT system, shift the transmission to
neutral and rev engine slightly to expel the
moisture and air-dry the belt and clutches. Allow
engine RPM to settle to idle speed, shift
transmission to lowest available range and test
for belt slippage. Operate ATV in lowest available
range for a short period of time until PVT system
is dry.
MAINTENANCE
2.23
ENGINE OIL LEVEL
The 700 engine is a wet--sump engine, meaning the
oil is contained in the bottom of the crankcase. To
check the oil level:
Dipstick
Ill.1
1. Set machine on a level surface.
2. Be sure the machine has sat for awhile before
removing the dipstick. Do not run the machine
and then check the dipstick.
3. Unlock the lever lock.(Ill. 2) Remove dipstick and
wipe dry with a clean cloth.
Dipstick Location
SAFE ADD 8 OZ
Dipstick
Lever Lock
Ill.2
4. Reinstall dipstick and push it into place. Do not
lock the dipstick.
NOTE: Make certain the dipstick is inserted all the
way into the filler tube to keep the angle and depth of
stick consistent. When reinstalling the dipstick, make
certain to seat the lever lock.
5. Remove dipstick and check to see that the oil
level is in the normal range. Add oil as indicated
by the level on the dipstick. Do not overfill. (See
NOTE below!)
NOTE: Due to the dipstick entry angle into the
crankcase, the oil level will read higher on the bottom
side of the dipstick. Proper level indication is
determined on the upper surface of the dipstick as it
is being removed, regardless of the level marks being
on top or on bottom. (See the next illustration)
Always read top side of dipstick to
properly check oil level in crankcase
Dipstick
NOTE: A rising oil level between checks in cool
weather driving can indicate contaminants such as
gas or moisture collecting in the crankcase. If the oil
level is over the full mark, change the oil immediately.
MAINTENANCE
2.24
OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
1. Place vehicle on a level surface.
2. Run engine two to three minutes until warm. Stop
engine.
3. Clean area around drain plug at bottom of oil
engine.
4. Place a drain pan beneath crankcase and remove
drain plug.
Engine Oil Drain Plug - Bottom View
Crankcase Drain
CAUTION: Oil may be hot. Do not allow hot oil to
come into contact with skin, as serious burns may
result.
Oil Filter
(PN 2540006)
5. Allow oil to drain completely.
6. Replace the sealing washer on drain plug.
NOTE: The sealing surfaces on drain plug and oil
tank should be clean and free of burrs, nicks or
scratches.
7. Reinstall drain plug and torque to 192 ±24 in. lbs.
(21.7 ±2.7 Nm).
8. Place shop towels beneath oil filter. Using Oil
Filter Wrench (PV--43527), turn filter
counterclockwise to remove.
9. Using a clean dry cloth, clean filter sealing surface
on crankcase.
10. Lubricate O-ring on new filter with a film of fresh
engine oil. Check to make sure the O-ring is in
good condition.
11. Install new filter and turn by hand until filter gasket
contacts the sealing surface, then turn an
additional 1/2 turn.
12. Remove dipstick and fill sump with 2 quarts (1.9 l)
of Polaris Premium 4 Synthetic Oil (PN 2871281).
Recommended Engine Oil
Polaris Premium 4 All Season Synthetic,
0W--40 (PN 2871281)
Ambient Temperature Range:
-40_Fto120_F
Crankcase Drain Plug Torque:
192 ±24 in. lbs. (21.7 ±2.7 Nm)
Oil Filter Torque:
Turn by hand until filter gasket
contacts sealing surface, then
turn an additional 1/2 turn
Oil Filter Wrench:
(PV--43527)
13. Place gear selector in neutral and set parking
brake.
14. Start the engine and let it idle for one to two
minutes. Stop the engine and inspect for leaks.
15. Re-check the oil level on the dipstick and add oil
as necessary to bring the level to the upper mark
on the dipstick.
16. Dispose of used filter and oil properly.
MAINTENANCE
2.25
STEERING
The steering components should be checked
periodically for loose fasteners, worn tie rod ends, and
damage. Also check to make sure all cotter pins are
in place. If cotter pins are removed, they must not be
re-used. Always use new cotter pins.
Replace any worn or damaged steering components.
Steering should move freely through entire range of
travel without binding. Check routing of all cables,
hoses, and wiring to be sure the steering mechanism
is not restricted or limited. NOTE: Whenever steering
components are replaced, check front end alignment.
Use only genuine Polaris parts.
WARNING
Due to the critical nature of the procedures out-
lined in this chapter, Polaris recommends
steering component repair and adjustment be
performed by an authorized Polaris MSD--certi-
fied technician when replacing worn or dam-
aged steering parts. Use only genuine Polaris
replacement parts.
One of two methods can be used to measure toe
alignment. The string method and the chalk method.
If adjustment is required, refer to following pages for
procedure.
TIE ROD END / STEERING
INSPECTION
GTo check for play in the tie rod end,
grasp the steering tie rod, pull in all
directions feeling for movement.
GRepeat inspection for inner tie rod
end on steering post.
GReplace any worn steering
components. Steering should move
freely through entire range of travel
without binding.
GElevate front end of machine so front
wheels are off the ground. Check for
any looseness in front hub / wheel
assembly by grasping the tire firmly
at top and bottom first, and then at
front and rear. Try to move the wheel
and hub by pushing inward and
pulling outward.
GIf abnormal movement is detected,
inspect the hub and wheel assembly
to determine the cause ( possible
loose wheel nuts or loose front hub
components).
Check for Loose Wheel or Hub
GRefer to the Body/Steering Chapter
5 or Final Drive Chapter 7 for service
procedures.
CAMBER AND CASTER
The camber and caster are non-adjustable.
MAINTENANCE
2.26
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
METHOD 1:
STRAIGHTEDGE OR STRING
Be sure to keep handlebars centered. See notes
below.
NOTE: String should just touch side sur-
face of rear tire on each side of machine.
NOTE: The steering post arm “frog” can be
used as an indicator of whether the handle-
bars are straight. The frog should always
point straight back from the steering post.
Rear rim
measure-
ment should
be 1/16″to
1/8″(.2to.3
cm) more
than front rim
measure-
ment.
Measure
from string
to rim at
front and
rear of rim.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
METHOD 2: CHALK
1. Place machine on a smooth level surface.
2. Set handlebars in a straight ahead position and
secure handlebars in this position. NOTE: The
steering arm “frog” can be used as an indicator of
whether the handlebars are straight. The frog
should always point straight back from the
steering post.
3. Place a chalk mark on the center line of the front
tires approximately 10″(25.4 cm) from the floor or
as close to the hub/axle center line as possible.
NOTE: It is important that the height of both
marks be equally positioned in order to get an
accurate measurement.
4. Measure the distance between the marks and
record the measurement. Call this measurement
“A”.
5. Rotate the tires 180°by moving vehicle forward or
backward. Position chalk marks facing rearward,
even with the hub/axle centerline.
6. Again measure the distance between the marks
and record. Call this measurement “B”. Subtract
measurement “B” from measurement “A”. The
difference between measurements “A” and “B” is
the vehicle toe alignment. The recommended
vehicle toe tolerance is 1/8″to 1/4″(.3to.6cm)
toe out. This means the measurement at the front
of the tire (A) is 1/8″to 1/4″(.3 to .6 cm) wider than
the measurement at the rear (B).
Chalk Line
Measurement
“A” Measurement “B”
Ill.1
MAINTENANCE
2.27
TOE ALIGNMENT
ADJUSTMENT
If toe alignment is incorrect, measure the distance
between vehicle center and each wheel. This will tell
you which tie rod needs adjusting. NOTE: Be sure
handlebars are straight ahead before determining
which tie rod(s) need adjustment.
CAUTION: During tie rod adjustment, it is very
important that the following precautions be taken
when tightening tie rod end jam nuts. If the rod end
is positioned incorrectly it will not pivot, and may
break.
Incorrectly
Tightened
Jam Nut
Correctly
Tightened
Jam Nut
Hold
Rod End
Ill.2
Ill.2
To adjust toe alignment:
GHold tie rod end to keep it from
rotating.
GLoosen jam nuts at both end of the tie
rod.
GShorten or lengthen the tie rod until
alignment is as required to achieve
the proper toe setting as specified
in Method 1 or Method 2.
GIMPORTANT: When tightening the
tie rod end jam nuts, the rod ends
must be held parallel to prevent rod
end damage and premature wear.
Damage may not be immediately
apparent if done incorrectly. See
illustration 2.
GAfter alignment is complete, torque
jam nuts to 12-14 ft. lbs. (16-19 Nm).
EXHAUST PIPE
The exhaust pipe must be periodically purged of
accumulated carbon as follows:
1. Remove the clean out plugs located on the
bottom of the muffler as shown in illustration 1.
Clean Out Plug
Ill.1
2. Place the transmission in neutral and start the
engine. Purge accumulated carbon from the
system by momentarily revving the engine
several times.
3. If some carbon is expelled, cover the exhaust
outlet and rap on the pipe around the clean out
plugs while revving the engine several more
times.
4. If particles are still suspected to be in the muffler,
back the machine onto an incline so the rear of the
machine is one foot higher than the front. Set the
hand brake and block the wheels. Make sure the
machine is in neutral and repeat Steps 2 and 3.
SEE WARNING
5. If particles are still suspected to be in the muffler,
drive the machine onto the incline so the front of
the machine is one foot higher than the rear. Set
the hand brake and block the wheels. Make sure
the machine is in neutral and repeat Steps 2 and
3. SEE WARNING
1ft.
MAINTENANCE
2.28
6. Repeat Steps 2 through 5 until no more particles
are expelled when the engine is revved.
7. Stop the engine and allow the arrestor to cool.
8. Reinstall the clean out plugs.
WARNING
GDo not perform clean out immediately
after the engine has been run, as the ex-
haust system becomes very hot. Serious
burns could result from contact with ex-
haust components.
GTo reduce fire hazard, make sure that
there are no combustible materials in the
area when purging the spark arrestor.
GWear eye protection.
GDo not stand behind or in front of the ve-
hicle while purging the carbon from the
spark arrestor.
GNever run the engine in an enclosed
area. Exhaust contains poisonous car-
bon monoxide gas.
GDo not go under the machine while it is
inclined. Set the hand brake and block
the wheels to prevent roll back.
Failure to heed these warnings could result in
serious personal injury or death.
BRAKE SYSTEM INSPECTION
The following checks are recommended to keep the
brake system in good operating condition. Service life
of brake system components depends on operating
conditions. Inspect brakes in accordance with the
maintenance schedule and before each ride.
GKeep fluid level in the master cylinder
reservoir to the indicated level inside
reservoir.
GUse Polaris DOT 3 Brake Fluid (PN
2870990).
Parking Brake
Lock
Sight
Glass
Min.
Max
Rear Master Cylinder Reservoir
Auxiliary Brake Reservoir
Located Under Seat
GCheck brake system for fluid leaks.
GCheck brake for excessive travel or
spongy feel.
GCheck friction pads for wear,
damage or looseness.
GCheck surface condition of the disc.
GInspect thickness of brake pad
friction material.
BRAKE PAD INSPECTION
Pads should be changed when the friction material is
worn to 3/64″(.1 cm), or about the thickness of a dime.
3/64″
(.1cm) Minimum
Thickness
MAINTENANCE
2.29
HOSE/FITTING INSPECTION
Check brake system hoses and fittings for cracks,
deterioration, abrasion, and leaks. Tighten any loose
fittings and replace any worn or damaged parts.
AUXILIARY BRAKE TESTING
The auxiliary brake should be checked for proper
function.
Auxiliary Brake
Support the rear wheels off the ground.
While turning the rear wheels by hand, apply the
auxiliary foot brake. This brake should not stop the
wheels from turning until the lever is half way between
its rest position and bottoming on the footrest.
Auxiliary Foot Brake
Pedal
Floor
Board Surface
Full Height Full
Engagement
AUXILIARY BRAKE
ADJUSTMENT (HYDRAULIC)
Use the following procedure to inspect the hydraulic
auxiliary (foot) brake system and adjust or bleed if
necessary:
First, check foot brake effectiveness by applying 50 lb.
(approx.) downward force on the pedal. The top of the
pedal should be at least 1 inch, (25.4mm) above the
surface of the footrest.
50 lbs 1″or greater
1/8, to 1/4,
Free Play
Floorboard
If less than one inch, two things must be examined:
Free Play:
Free play of the brake pedal should be 1/8 - 1/4
inch (3.2 - 6.35 mm).
If free play is excessive, inspect pedal, linkage, and
master cylinder for wear or damage and replace any
parts as needed.
Bleeding:
If free play is correct and brake pedal travel is still
excessive, air may be trapped somewhere in the
system. Bleed the hydraulic auxiliary brake system in
a conventional manner, following the procedure
outlined in Brake Chapter 9.
SUSPENSION: SPRING
PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
Operator weight and vehicle loading affect
suspensionspringpreloadrequirements.Adjustas
necessary.
Shock Spanner Wrench
(PN 2870872)
MAINTENANCE
2.30
FRONT SUSPENSION
GCompress and release front suspension.
Damping should be smooth throughout
the range of travel.
GCheck all front suspension components
for wear or damage.
GInspect front strut cartridges for leakage.
REAR SUSPENSION
Rear Spring
Adjustment Cam
GCompress and release rear suspension.
Damping should be smooth throughout
the range of travel.
GCheck all rear suspension components
for wear or damage.
GInspect shock for leakage.
CV SHAFT BOOT
INSPECTION
Inspect the cv shaft boots in the front and rear of the
ATV for damage, tears, wear, or leaking grease. If the
rubber boot exhibits any of these symptoms, replace
the boot. Refer to Chapter 7 for CV boot replacement,
or have you Polaris dealer replace the boot.
Inspect Boots
CONTROLS
Check controls for proper operation, positioning
and adjustment.
Brake control and switch must be positioned to allow
brake lever to travel throughout entire range without
contacting switch body.
MAINTENANCE
2.31
WHEELS
Inspect all wheels for runout or damage. Check wheel
nuts and ensure they are tight. Do not over tighten the
wheel nuts.
WHEEL, HUB, TORQUE
Item Specification
Steel -- Front Wheel Nuts 30 Ft. Lbs. (41 Nm)
Steel -- Rear Wheel Nuts 30 Ft. Lbs. (41Nm)
Aluminum
Front Wheel Nuts
90 Ft. Lbs. (122 Nm)
Aluminum
Rear Wheel Nuts
90 Ft. Lbs. (122 Nm)
Front Hub Retaining Nut 70 ft.lbs. (90 Nm)
Rear Hub Retaining Nut 80 Ft. Lbs. (108 Nm)
WHEEL REMOVAL:
FRONT OR REAR
Front & Rear Wheels
1. Stop the engine, place the transmission in gear
and lock the parking brake.
2. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly.
3. Elevate the side of the vehicle by placing a
suitable stand under the footrest frame.
A
4. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel.
WHEEL INSTALLATION
1. With the transmission in gear and the parking
brake locked, place the wheel in the correct
position on the wheel hub. Be sure the valve stem
is toward the outside and rotation arrows on the
tire point toward forward rotation.
2. Attach the wheel nuts and finger tighten them.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Securely tighten the wheel nuts to the proper
torque listed in the table.
CAUTION:
Improperly installed wheels could affect vehicle
handling and tire wear. On vehicles with tapered rear
wheel nuts, make sure tapered end of nut goes into
taper on wheel. Torque to proper specification.
Steel Wheel Aluminum Wheel
TIRE PRESSURE
CAUTION:
Maintain proper tire pressure. Refer to the warning
tire pressure decal applied to the vehicle.
Tire Pressure Inspection (PSI - Cold)
Front Rear
5 5
MAINTENANCE
2.32
TIRE INSPECTION
GImproper tire inflation may affect ATV
maneuverability.
GWhen replacing a tire always use
original equipment size and type.
GThe use of non-standard size or type
tires may affect ATV handling.
Tire Tread Depth
Always replace tires when tread depth is worn to
1/8″(3 mm) or less.
Tread
Depth 1/8I(3 mm)
WARNING
Operating an ATV with worn tires will increase
the possibility of the vehicle skidding and pos-
sible loss of control.
Worn tires can cause an accident.
Always replace tires when the tread depth
measures 1/8″(.3 cm) or less.
FRAME, NUTS, BOLTS,
FASTENERS
Periodically inspect the torque of all fasteners in
accordance with the maintenance schedule. Check
that all cotter pins are in place. Refer to specific
fastener torques listed in each chapter.
FRONT / REAR STORAGE
COMPARTMENTS
The front and rear storage compartments are easily
accessible. To open the front compartment turn the
latch handle to the horizontal position on both sides.
To close the storage compartment turn the latch
handles to the vertical position.
Front Storage -- Unlatched
Front Storage -- Latched
Rear Storage -- Latched
MAINTENANCE
2.33
WARN®WINCH OPERATION
(If Equipped)
This information is for Sportsman models equipped
with a 2500 lb. (2.5chi) Warn®Winch in the front.
Pre--Wired WarntWinch Kits
2.5 ci -- PN 2875309
3.0 ci -- PN 2875308
Winch Handlebar Controls
The winch is located in the front bumper area.
The mini--rocker (IN/OUT) control controls the
direction of the cable for the winch. IN pulls the cable
into the winch and OUT feeds the cable out of the
winch.
Mini--Rocker Switch
IN
OUT
Winch Control
The winch control located on the side of the winch
gives the operator easy access to switch between
ENGAGED and FREESPOOL.
When the winch is ENGAGED, the winch only allows
the cable to be pulled IN or released OUT via the
mini--rocker switch on the handlebar.
When the winch is FREESPOOL, the winch allows
the cable to be pulled out freely. NOTE: The switch
on the handlebar does not have to be in the OUT
position.
FREESPOOL
ENGAGE
MAINTENANCE
2.34
Winch Wire Locations
The winch wires can be located under the front cab
area. Locate the wires, remove the cap and hook up
to winch the Blue and Yellow (6 Ga.) wires to the
winch. Refer to the installation instructions for more
details.
Winch Connecting Wires Located
Under Right Front Cab Area
Winch Connecting Wires
or
Pic of quick connect and locations
Under Right Side Front Fender
Contactor mounts for Splash Guard
The Red wire (6 Ga.) with the yellow crimp cover is
located under the left rear fender next to the starter
solenoid. The red wire connects to the battery.
Winch Connecting Wires
The Orange/White wires are located under the front
cover (under headlight pod). The Orange/White wires
supply the control power to the winch.
MAINTENANCE
2.35
CLEANING & STORAGE OF
ATV
Cleaning the ATV
Keeping your ATV clean will not only improve its
appearance but it can also extend the life of various
components. With a few precautions, your ATV can
be cleaned much like an automobile.
Washing the ATV
The best and safest way to clean your ATV is with a
garden hose and a pail of mild soap and water. Use
a professional type washing mitten, cleaning the
upper body first and the lower parts last. Rinse with
water frequently and dry with a chamois to prevent
water spots. NOTE: If warning and safety labels are
damaged, contact your a Polaris dealer for free
replacement.
Polaris does not recommend the use of a high
pressure type car wash system for washing the ATV.
If a high pressure system is used, exercise extreme
care to avoid water damage to the wheel bearings,
transmission seals, body panels, brakes and warning
labels. NOTE: Grease all zerk fittings immediately
after washing, and allow the vehicle to run for a while
to evaporate any water that may have entered the
engine or exhaust system.
Waxing the ATV
Your ATV can be waxed with any non-abrasive
automotive paste wax. Avoid the use of harsh
cleaners since they can scratch the body finish.
Polaris offers a detailing kit for your ATV, see Page
2.7.
CAUTION: Certain products, including insect
repellants and chemicals, will damage plastic
surfaces. Use caution when using these
products near plastic surfaces.
Storage Tips
See Page 2.7 for the part numbers of Polaris
products.
CAUTION: Starting the engine during the storage
period will disturb the protective film created by
fogging and damage could occur. Never start the
engine during the storage period.
Clean the Exterior
Make necessary repairs and then clean the ATV
thoroughly with mild soap and warm water to remove
all dirt and grime. Don’t use harsh detergents or high
pressure washers. Some detergents deteriorate
rubber parts. Use dish soap type cleaners only. High
pressure washers may force water past seals.
Stabilize the Fuel
Fill the fuel tank. Add Polaris Carbon Clean Fuel
Treatment or Polaris Fuel Stabilizer. Follow the
instructions on the container for the recommended
amount. (Carbon clean will also reduce the possibility of
bacterial growth in the fuel system.) Allow 15-20
minutes of operation for the stabilizer to disperse
through the fuel in the tank and carburetor. Turn the fuel
valve off and drain the carburetor bowl.
Oil and Filter
Warm the engine and change the oil and filter. Follow
the procedure in this chapter for proper oil change.
Air Filter / Air Box
Inspect and clean or replace the pre-cleaner and air
filter. Clean the air box and drain the sediment tube.
Breather Filter
Inspect and clean or replace the breather filter.
Fluid Levels
Inspect the following fluid levels and change if
necessary: front gearcase; transmission; brake fluid
(change every two years or as required if fluid looks
dark or contaminated).
Drain the Recoil Housing
Remove the recoil housing drain plug and drain any
moisture.
Storage Tips
Polaris offers storage kits for you ATV, see Page 2.7
for the part numbers of Polaris products.
Fog the Engine
Use Polaris Fogging Oil, following the instructions as
directed.
If you choose not to use Polaris Fogging Oil, perform
the following procedure.
1. Treat the fuel system with Polaris Carbon Clean.
Turn fuel petcock to ’OFF’.
2. To eliminate any fuel remaining in the carburetor,
run the engine until it stops. If Polaris fuel system
additive is not used, fuel tank, fuel lines, and
carburetor should be completely drained of
gasoline.
3. To access the plug hole, use a section of clear 1/4”
hose and a small plastic squeeze bottle filled with
the pre-measured amount of oil.
4. Remove the spark plug(s). Rotate the piston to
BDC and pour approximately two ounces of
Polaris oil into the cylinder.
NOTE: Do this carefully! If you miss the plug hole, oil will
drain from the spark plug cavity into the hole at the front
of the cylinder head, and appear to be an oil leak.
MAINTENANCE
2.36
5. Apply dielectric grease to the inside of the spark
plug cap and install the cap onto the plug.
6. Turn the engine over several times to ensure
coverage of piston rings, cylinder walls and
crankshaft bearings.
7. Treat the fuel system with Polaris Carbon Clean.
8. If Polaris fuel system additive is not used, fuel
tank, fuel lines, and carburetor should be
completely drained of gasoline. To eliminate any
fuel remaining in the carburetor, run the engine
until it stops.
Lubricate
Inspect all cables and lubricate with Polaris Cable
Lubricant. Follow lubrication guidelines in the
maintenance section of the service or owner’s manual
to completely grease and lubricate the entire vehicle
with Polaris Premium All Season Grease.
Storage Tips
Battery Storage
Remove the battery from the vehicle and ensure that
it’s fully charged before placing it in storage. See
Chapter 10 for instructions.
Engine Anti-Freeze
Test engine coolant strength and change if necessary.
Coolant should be replaced every two years. See
Page 2.18 for the proper test procedure.
Storage Area/Covers
Set the tire pressure and safely support the ATV with
the tires 1-2” off the ground. Be sure the storage area
is well ventilated, and cover the machine with a genuine
Polaris ATV cover. NOTE: Do not use plastic or coated
materials. They do not allow enough ventilation to
prevent condensation, and may promote corrosion and
oxidation.
Transporting the ATV
Follow these procedures when transporting the
vehicle.
1. Turn off the engine and remove the key to prevent
loss during transporting.
2. Always place the transmission in park and lock
the parking brake.
3. Turn the fuel valve off.
4. Be sure the fuel cap, oil cap and seat are installed
correctly.
5. Always tie the frame of the ATV to the transporting
unit securely using suitable straps or rope.
800 EFI Exhaust Canister Maintenance
The exhaust canisters on Polaris 800 EFIs are
ceramic coated. To maintain a beautiful finish and
prevent corrosion, periodic maintenence is required.
DO NOT use caustic chemicals to clean, as they may
damage the finish.
1. Wash any accumulated mud or debris from the
canisters with a soft brush and soapy water.
2. Use a cleaner, such as HPC HiPerWashtto
clean away any remaining grime, salts or oils.
3. If the canisters are stained from oils or other
fluids, use fine steel wool with HPC Liquid Bufft
Cleaner and Polish to remove the stain.
4. After removing the stains, polish using Liquid Buff
and a soft cloth.
Repeat this procedure as often as desired to maintain
the canister’s finish.
ENGINE
3.1
Engine Exploded Views 3.2--3.7......................
Exhaust System View / Notes 3.8.................
Special Tools 3.9...............................
Piston Identification 3.9..........................
Torque Specifications 3.10........................
Engine Fastener Torque Patterns 3.11.............
Engine Service Data 3.12--3.14.........................
Cooling System Specifications 3.15................
Cooling System Test 3.15.........................
Engine Removal/Installation 3.16--3.17..................
Engine Installation Notes 3.17--3.18.....................
Cylinder Honing 3.19............................
Oil Flow 3.20....................................
Rocker Arm/Pushrod Inspection 3.21...............
Cylinder Head Disassembly/Inspection 3.21--3.23.........
Valve Inspection 3.24............................
Combustion Chamber 3.25.......................
Valve Seat Reconditioning 3.25--3.27....................
Cylinder Head Assembly. 3.27.....................
Valve Sealing Test 3.28...........................
Valve Train Exploded View. 3.28...................
Engine Head Reassembly 3.29--3.30....................
Cylinder Removal 3.31...........................
Valve Lifter Removal/Inspection 3.31...............
Piston Removal 3.31--3.32.............................
Cylinder Inspection 3.32--3.33..........................
Piston/Rod/Ring Service 3.33--3.35.....................
Starter Bendix Removal/Inspection 3.36............
Flywheel/Stator Removal/Inspection 3.37...........
Flywheel/Stator Installation 3.37--3.38...................
Engine Crankcase Disassembly/Inspection 3.38--3.46.....
Camshaft Inspection 3.47.........................
Engine Crankcase Assembly 3.47--3.58.................
Troubleshooting 3.59--3.60.............................
4--Stroke Coolant System Bleeding Procedure 3.61..
ENGINE
3.2
ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
CRANKCASE
22 ±2 ft. lbs.
(30 ±3Nm)
Crankcase
Apply Loctitet242 to
the bolt threads.
Apply Moly
Lube Grease.
242
242
Crankcase Bolts
Oil Plug
Washer
Journal Bearings Baffle
NOTE: If needed, heat
the oil baffle bolts with a
heat gun to remove.
60 ±6in.lbs.
(6.8 ±.68 Nm)
60 ±6in.lbs.
(6.8 ±.68 Nm)
Oil Pickup
O--ring
Crankshaft
Flange Seal
Journal Bearings
Balance
Shaft
ML
Apply White
Lithium Grease.
Camshaft
Thrust Plate
115 ±12 in. lbs.
(13 ±1.35 Nm)
WL
192 ±24 in. lbs.
(21.7 ±2.7 Nm)
Woodruff Key
ML
SEE PAGE 3.11 FOR CRANKCASE
BOLT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
WL
ML
ML
ENGINE
3.3
ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
Apply Polaris 0W--40
oil to component.
Split Gear
Apply White
Lithium Grease.
Washer
22 ±2 ft. lbs.
(30 ±3Nm)
Bolt
Counterbalance Gear
Washer
22 ±2 ft. lbs.
(30 ±3Nm)Bolt
Oil rotor
OIL
OIL
Oil Pump
Oil Pump
Bolts
84 ±8in.lbs.
(9.5 ±.90 Nm)
1
2
3
4
Oil Pump Bolt Tighten Sequence
Mag Gasket Cover
No Grease on this portion of gasket!
Gear/Stator Cover
Wire Hold Down
96 ±12 in. lbs.
(10.85 ±.35 Nm)
Gear/Stator Housing Bolt
Impeller
Nut
Washer
108 ±12 in. lbs.
(6.8 ±.68 Nm)
1
2
3
4
Mag Cover Bolt Tighten Sequence
GEAR TIMING AT TDC
TIMING MARKS
MAG SIDE
*NOTE: Apply Corrosion Resistant
Grease to Stator Grommet Area
*See Note
WL
ENGINE
3.4
ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
SG
SG
Stator Cover
96 ±12 in. lbs.
(10.85 ±1.35 Nm)
Bolts
1
2
3
4
5
6
78
9
2
Stator Cover Bolt Tighten Sequence
Gasket
96 ±12 in. lbs.
(10.85 ±1.35 Nm)
Water Pump
Cover
1
2
3
4
55
6
7
Water Pump Cover Bolt
Tighten Sequence
Gasket
65 ±7 ft. lbs.
(88 ±9.50 Nm)
Crankshaft Nut
Washer
Flywheel
Bendix
Washer
SG Apply Polaris
Starter Grease.
Washer
Starter
Neg. Cable
Pos. Cable
Nut Washer
108 ±12 ft. lbs.
(12 ±1.35 Nm)
84 ±8 ft. lbs.
(9.50 ±0.9 Nm)
Bolts
(Tighten Top Bolt First)
1
2
Oil Filter
50 ±5in.lbs.
(5.65 ±0.56 Nm)
Apply Polaris 0W--40
oil to seal.
OIL
Oil Filter Nipple
35 ±4 ft. lbs.
(47.5 ±5.4 Nm)
Hex Plug
216 ±24 in. lbs.
(24.4 ±2.71 Nm)
LoctitetPipe Sealant
(PN 2871956)
Dipstick
Oil Fill Tube
50 ±5in.lbs.
(5.64 ±0.56 Nm)
Clamp
O--ring
22 ±2 ft.lbs.
(30 ±3Nm)
Dowel Spring
(Chamfer Side Down)
MAG SIDE
OIL
OIL
SG
(NO Grease or Oil!)
ENGINE
3.5
ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
Initial: 15 ±2 ft. lbs. (20.3 ±2.7 Nm)
to seat gasket and back off 5 turns
Re--torque to 35 ±4 ft. lbs (47.5 ±
5.5 Nm). Finalize sequence by tight-
ening an additional 90°(1/4 turn)
Head Bolts
1Lubricate threads and be-
tween washers and underside
of bolt heads with engine oil
Torque in sequence provided.
1
1
2
3
4
5
6
Rocker Arms 22 ±2 ft. lbs.
(30 ±3Nm)
2
Apply Moly
Lube Grease.
Apply Moly Lube
grease to valve tips. 2
Gasket
3Gasketfreeofoil.Verify
tabs are visible.
3
Pushrods
Bushing
Expansion
Plug
Cylinder
Apply Polaris 0W--40 oil.
OIL
4
4
Apply thin film of 0W--40 to
25--55 mm of cylinder bore.
Piston Assembly
Circlip UP for Install
5
5Apply0W--40topiston
pin or pin bore.
3Gasket
Hydraulic Lifter
6Apply 0W--40 to lifters.
Side View
Do not install expansion plug
more than 1.5 mm inward.
TOP END
Head Bolt Tighten Sequence
OIL
OIL
OIL
OIL
ML
OIL
(Each Bolt
Threads)
1.5 mm ML
ML
0
ENGINE
3.6
ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
84 ±8in.lbs.
(9.5 ±0.9 Nm)
Screws
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Rocker Cover
Breather
20 ±5in.lbs.
(2.5 ±0.55 Nm) Breather Bolts
Spark Plugs
216 ±24 in. lbs.
(24.5 ±2.7 Nm)
O--ring Seal
Carburetor Boot
216 ±24 in. lbs.
(24.5 ±2.7 Nm) Bolts
Boot Clamp
20 ±5in.lbs.
(2.5 ±0.55 Nm)
Exhaust Manifold
Gasket
Bolts
216 ±24 in. lbs.
(24.5 ±2.7 Nm)
Thermistor200 ±20 in. lbs.
(1.41 ±0.14 Nm)
O--ring
Thermostat
Housing
Bolts
84 ±8in.lbs.
(9.5 ±0.9 Nm)
OUTER COMPONENTS
Throttle Body
*Apply Corrosion Resistant Grease
Crank Position
Sensor
84 ±8in.lbs.
(9.5 ±0.9 Nm)
(*Apply Dielectric Grease Tips of Spark Plugs)
ENGINE
3.7
ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
Fuel Injector
Fuel Rail
216 ±24 in. lbs.
(24.5 ±2.7 Nm)
EFI Harness
ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS
NOTE: See Chapter 4 for more information the EFI system.
ENGINE
3.8
EXHAUST SYSTEM
7.
4.
1.
11.
2.
6. 5.
3.
8.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
8.
7.
12.
16.
16.
E2004 Polaris Sales Inc.
10.
19.
18.
23.
9.
14.
17.
20.
15.
21.
25.
24.
13.
26.
22.
15.
800 EFI Exhaust
Canister Maintenance
The exhaust canisters on Polaris 800
EFIs are ceramic coated. To maintain a
beautiful finish and prevent corrosion,
periodic maintenence is required. DO
NOT use caustic chemicals to clean, as
they may damage the finish.
1. Wash any accumulated mud or
debris from the canisters with a
soft brush and soapy water.
2. Use a cleaner, such as HPC
HiPerWashtto clean away any
remaining grime, salts or oils.
3. If the canisters are stained from
oils or other fluids, use fine steel
wool with HPC Liquid Bufft
Cleaner and Polish to remove the
stain.
4. After removing the stains, polish
using Liquid Buff and a soft cloth.
Repeat this procedure as often as de-
sired to maintain the canister’s finish.
NOTE: Silencer Removal
Silencer removal requires replacement of the silencer grommets, item #24,
as they become damaged during removal.
Ref. Qty. Description Ref. Qty. Description
1. 2Nut, Nylok
2. 2Washer
3. 2Bushing
4. 2Washer, Rubber
5. 2Bushing
6. 1Bracket, Silencer, Frame
7. 2Dampener, Vibration
8. 2Bolt
9. 1Exhaust, Silencer, RH
10. 1Washer, Clean Out
11. 1Bolt
12. 1Seal, Exhaust Socket
13. 2Spring
14. 1Exhaust, Pipe, Dual, Black
15. 4Screw
16. 4Washer
17. 1Shield, Heat, Dual
18. 4Screw
19. 1Gasket
20. 1Shield, Heat, Exhaust, Top
21. 1Seal, Exhaust
22. 1Clamp, Exhaust
23. 1Exhaust, Silencer, LH
24. 2Grommet, Silencer, Mount
25. 1Bracket, Silencer, Mount
26. 1Spring
ENGINE
3.9
SPECIAL TOOLS
PART NUMBER TOOL DESCRIPTION
PV--43527 Oil Filter Wrench
2200634 Valve Seat Reconditioning Kit
PU--45257 Valve Spring Compressor
PU--45652 Valve Pressure Hose
2871043 Flywheel Puller
2870390 Piston Support Block
PU--45497--2 Cam Gear Tooth Alignment Tool
PU--45497--1 Cam Gear Spring Installation Kit (Tapered Pins)
PU--45498 Cam Spanner Wrench
PU--45838 Gear Holder
PA--44995 Water Pump Mechanical Seal Installer
PU--45543 Universal Driver Handle
PU--45483 Main Seal Installer
PU--45658 Main Crankshaft Seal Saver
PA--45401 Water Pump Seal Saver
2870975 Mity VactPressure Test Tool
PU--45778 Oil System Priming Tool
ACCESSIBLE COMPONENTS
The following components can be serviced or
removed with the engine installed in the frame:
SFlywheel
SAlternator/Stator
SStarter Motor/Starter Drive
SCylinder Head
SCylinder
SPiston/RIngs
SCamshaft
SRocker Arms
SOil pump/Water Pump and Oil
Pump Drive Gear
SGear Train Components
The following components require engine
removal for service:
SCounterbalance Shaft or Bearing(s)
SConnecting Rod
SCrankshaft
SCrankshaft Main Bearings
SCrankcase
PISTON IDENTIFICATION
Four stroke engine rings have a rectangular profile. See text on Page 3.29 for ring installation. Use the information
below to identify pistons and rings.
NOTE: The pistons have no directional identification marks. New pistons are non--directional.
Engine Model No. Piston Diameter Standard Piston Identification
EH076OLE 80 mm None
EH068OLE 80 mm None
ENGINE
3.10
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Fastener Size 700/800
in. Lbs. (Nm) 700/800
ft.lbs. (Nm)
Camshaft Gear 8mm -- 22 ±2(30±3)
Camshaft Thrust Plate 6mm 115 ±12 (13 ±1.35) --
Carburetor Adaptor Bolts 8mm 216 ±24 (24.5-±2.7) --
Counterbalance Gear 8mm -- 22 ±2(30±3)
Crankcase Bolts 8mm -- *22 ±2(30±3)
Crankcase Breather 5mm 20 ±5(2.5±0.55) --
Cylinder Head Bolts 11 mm -- *35 ±4 (47.5 ±5.5)
Exhaust Manifold 8mm 216 ±24 (24.5 ±2.70) --
Flywheel 14 mm -- 65 ±7(88±9.50)
Magneto Cover 6mm *96 ±12 (10.85 ±0.35) --
Oil Baffle Weldment 5mm 60 ±6(6.8±0.68) --
Oil Drain Bolt (Crankcase) 12 mm 192 ±24 (21.7 ±2.7) --
Oil Fill Tube Bolt 5mm 50 ±5 (5.64 ±0.56) --
Oil Filter Pipe Fitting 20 mm -- 35 ±4 (47.5 ±5.4)
Oil Pick Up 5mm 60 ±6(6.8±0.68) --
Oil Pressure Relief Plug 10 mm 22 ±2(30±3) --
Oil Pump Housing Screw 6mm *84 ±8 (9.50 ±0.90) --
Rocker Arm 8mm -- *22 ±2(30±3)
Rocker Cover 6mm *84 ±8(9.5±0.9) --
Spark Plug 14 mm 216 ±24 (24.5 ±2.7) --
Starter Motor 6mm *84 ±8(9.5±0.9) --
Stator Assembly 6mm 96 ±12 (10.85 ±1.35) --
Stator Housing 6mm *96 ±12 (10.85 ±1.35) --
Temperature Switch 3/8 PT -- 25 ±3(34±4)
Thermostat Housing 6mm 84 ±8(9.5±0.9) --
Timing Plug 3/4-16 -- 7-9 (10-12 Nm)
Trigger Coil/Stator Wire Holddown 5mm *96 ±12 (10.85 ±1.35) --
Water Pump Housing Cover 6mm *96 ±12 (10.85 ±1.35) --
Water Pump Impeller Nut 8mm 108 ±12 (12 ±1.35) --
*See exploded views for notes or torque sequences.
ENGINE
3.11
ENGINE FASTENER TORQUE PATTERNS
Tighten cylinder head/cylinder base, and crankcase fasteners in the following sequence outlined below.
CRANKCASE BOLT TIGHTEN SEQUENCE
315
624
Lubricate threads and between washer and underside of bolt with engine oil.
Torque in sequence to spec provided, allow the gasket to set for 1 minute,
then tighten in sequence 90°(1/4 turn).
CYLINDER HEAD BOLT TIGHTEN SEQUENCE
35 ±4 ft. lbs.
(47.5 ±5.5 Nm) +90°(1/4 turn)
22 ±2 ft. lbs.
(30 ±3Nm)
ENGINE
3.12
700/800 EFI ENGINE SERVICE DATA
**Cylinder Head / Valve EFI Engine No. -- EH680OLE / EH780OLE
Camshaft Cam lobe height In Std 1.3334” (33.8674 mm)
g
Ex Std 1.3334” (33.8674 mm)
Camshaft journal OD Mag 1.654” ±0.00039” (42 ±0.010 mm)
j
Center 1.634” ±0.00039” (41.50 ±0.010 mm)
PTO 1.614” ±0.00039” (41 ±0.010 mm)
Camshaft journal
b
I
D
Mag 1.656” ±0.00039” (42.07 ±0.010 mm)
j
bore ID Center 1.637” ±0.00039” (41.58 ±0.010 mm)
PTO 1.617” ±0.00039” (41.07 ±0.010 mm)
Camshaft Oil
l
Std 0.00276” ±0.00079” (0.07 ±0.02 mm)
clearance
End Play 0.0167” ±0.0098” (0.425 ±0.25 mm)
Counter
Balance End Play 0.005” (0.127 mm)
Cylinder
H
d
Surface warpage limit 0.00394” (0.1 mm)
y
Head Standard height 3.478” (88.35 mm)
Valve Seat Contacting width In Std 0.0472” + 0.00787” -- 0.0039”
(1.20 +0.20 -- 0.10 mm)
Ex Std 0.0591” + 0.00787” -- 0.0039”
(1.50 +0.20 -- 0.10 mm)
Seat Angle Std 45.5 ±0.25°
Valve
G
i
d
Inner diameter 0.2367” ±0.00029” (6.012 ±0.007 mm)
Guide Protrusion above head 0.807” ±0.0039” (20.50 ±0.01 mm)
Valve Margin
T
h
i
k
In Std 0.79” (20.06mm)
g
Thickness Max-- 0.98” (24.89mm) Min-- 0.59” (14.98mm)
Ex Std 0.80” (3.488 mm)
Max-- 1.0” (25.4mm) Min-- 0.60” (15.24mm)
Stem diameter In 0.2356” ±0.00039” (5.985 ±0.01 mm)
Ex 0.2351” ±0.00039” (5.972 ±0.01 mm)
Stem oil
l
Std In 0.00228” ±0.00098” (0.058 ±0.025 mm)
clearance Ex 0.00275” ±0.00098” (0.0870±0.025mm)
Overall length In 4.51” ±0.01476” (114.5550 ±0.375 mm)
g
Ex 4.5453” ±.01496” (115.45 ±0.38 mm)
Valve
Spring Overall length Free
Length 1.735” (46.069 mm)
p
g
Installed
Height Intake -- 1.4638” (37.18 mm)
Exhaust -- 1.4736” (37.43 mm)
**denotes cylinder head with bronze valve guide
ENGINE
3.13
700/800 EFI ENGINE SERVICE DATA
Cylinder / Piston / Connecting Rod EFI Engine No.
EH680OLE EFI Engine No.
EH780OLE
Cylinder Surface warpage limit
(mating with cylinder head) 0.004” (0.10 mm) Same
Cylinder bore Std 3.1495” (80 mm) Same
Taper limit 0.00031” (0.008 mm) Same
Out of round limit 0.00030” (0.0075 mm) Same
Piston clearance Std .040” ±.015”
(.041 ±.016 mm)
Same
Boring limit N/A N/A
Lifter Outer Diameter Std 0.84245” ±0.00025”
(21.39 8±0.00635 mm)
Same
Block Bore Std 0.8438” ±0.00062”
(21.4322 ±0.0157 mm)
Same
Piston Std 3.1477”±.000121”
(79.954±.003mm) 3.14803” ±.00028I
(79.960 ±.007 mm)
Standard inner diameter of piston pin
bore 0.78789” ±.00009I
(20.0125 ±0.003 mm) 0.70902” ±.00012I
(18.009 ±0.003 mm)
Piston Pin Outer diameter 0.7874” -- 0.7872”
(20 -- 19.995 mm) 0.70866” -- 0.70846”
(18 -- 17.995 mm)
Standard clearance-piston pin to pin
bore 0.00059” ±0.0002”
(0.015 ±0.005 mm) 0.00047” ±0.00024”
(0.012 ±0.006 mm)
Degree of fit Piston pin must be a push
(by hand) fit at 68°F(20°
C)
Same
ENGINE
3.14
700/800 EFI ENGINE SERVICE DATA
Cylinder / Piston / Connecting Rod EFI Engine No.
EH680OLE EFI Engine No.
EH780OLE
Piston
Ring Piston ring installed
gap Top ring Std 0.0059-- 0.0138”
(0.15 ±0.35 mm) 0.0059 -- 0.0138”
(0.15 ±0.35 mm)
g
g
p
Limit > 15% Leakdown > 15% Leakdown
Second
ring Std 0.0098 -- 0.0197”
(0.25 ±0.50 mm) 0.0098 -- 0.0197”
(0.25 ±0.50 mm)
g
Limit > 15% Leakdown > 15% Leakdown
Oil ring Std 0.0196” ±.00984”
(0.50 ±0.25 mm) 0.0196” ±.00984”
(0.50 ±0.25 mm)
Limit > 15% Leakdown > 15% Leakdown
Standard clearance
piston ring to ring Top ring Std 0.0024” ±0.0008I
(0.060 ±0.020 mm) 0.0024” ±0.0008I
(0.060 ±0.020 mm)
p
g
g
groove Limit > 15% Leakdown > 15% Leakdown
Second
ring Std 0.0028” ±0.0008I
(0.070 ±0.020 mm) 0.0028” ±0.0008I
(0.070 ±0.020 mm)
g
Limit > 15% Leakdown > 15% Leakdown
Connect-
ing Rod Connecting rod small end ID .789 -- .78841”
(20.030 -- 20.015 mm) .7096” ±0.0003
(18.023±.008 mm)
g
Connecting rod small end ra-
dial clearance Std 0.00098” ±0.00039”
(0.025 ±0.010 mm)
Same
Connectin
g
rod bi
g
end side
C
o
n
n
e
c
t
i
n
g
r
o
d
b
i
g
e
n
d
s
i
d
e
clearance Limit 0.01181” ±0.00591” (0.30
±0.15 mm)
Same
Connectin
g
rod bi
g
end radial
C
o
n
n
e
c
t
i
n
g
r
o
d
b
i
g
e
n
d
r
a
d
i
a
l
clearance Limit 0.00015” ±0.00006”
(0.0038 ±0.0015 mm)
Same
Crankshaft Crankshaft runout limit 0.00236” (0.060 mm) Same
KEY - Std: Standard; OS: Oversize; ID: Inner Diameter; OD: Outer Diameter; Mag: Magneto Side;
PTO: Power Take Off Side
Radiator
Left Side
View
Radiator
Front
View
Top
Bottom
To Water Pump
Coolant Flow Diagram
ENGINE
3.15
COOLING SYSTEM
SPECIFICATIONS
Condition Approx. Reading
(Min--Max) Temperature
Hot Light
On 178Ω-- 190Ω215°F
(102°C)
Fan Off 296Ω-- 316Ω180°F(82°C)
Fan On 236Ω-- 251Ω195°F(91°C)
System
Capacity 2.25 Quarts
(2.13L)
Radiator
Cap Relief
Pressure 13 PSI
Recommended Coolant
Use only high quality antifreeze/coolant mixed with
distilled water in a 50/50 or 60/40 ratio, depending on
freeze protection required in your area. CAUTION:
Using tap water in the cooling system will lead to a
buildup of deposits which may restrict coolant flow and
reduce heat dissipation, resulting in possible engine
damage. Polaris Premium 60/40 Antifreeze/Coolant is
recommended for use in all cooling systems and comes
pre-mixed, ready to use.
Radiator
Thermostat
Cylinder
Head
Water
Pump
Cylinder
FLOW
COOLING SYSTEM
WARNING
Never remove radiator cap when engine is
warm or hot. The cooling system is under
pressure and serious burns may result. Allow
the engine and cooling system to cool before
servicing.
1. Remove front cover.
2. Remove recovery bottle hose from coolant filler
neck.
3. Connect a Mity Vact(PN 2870975) to the filler
neck nipple and pressurize system to 10 psi. The
system must retain 10 psi for five minutes or
longer. If pressure loss is evident within five
minutes, check the radiator, hoses, clamps and
water pump seals for leakage.
Radiator Cap Pressure Test
1. Remove radiator cap and test cap using a
commercially available cap tester.
2. The radiator cap relief pressure is 13 lbs. Replace
cap if it does not meet this specification.
Radiator
Shroud
Fan
Lower Engine
Hose
Hose
Upper Engine Hose Surge Tank
Filler Neck Assy.
Exploded View
ENGINE
3.16
ENGINE REMOVE & INSTALL
WARNING
Always wear safety glasses and proper shop
clothing when performing the procedures in this
manual. Failing to do so may lead to possible
injury or death.
1. Clean work area.
2. Thoroughly clean the ATV engine and chassis.
3. Disconnect battery negative (-) cable.
4. Remove the following parts as required:
SSeat
SLeft and Right Side Covers (Refer to
Chapter 5)
SFuel Tank Cover / Front Cab (Refer to
Chapter 5)
SFuel Tank (Refer to Chapter 4)
5. Remove springs from exhaust pipe and remove
pipe.
6. Drain coolant and engine oil.
7. Remove air pre-cleaner and duct.
8. Remove airbox.
9. Disconnect the throttle body sensor (C) and the
T--map sensor (D). Remove throttle body (A).
Insert a shop towel into the engine intake to
prevent dirt from entering the intake port.
10. Relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel rail (refer to
Chapter 4, “FUEL INJECTION”) for proper
procedure. Carefully remove the fuel rail (B) and
injectors.
B
A
C
D
11. Disconnect spark plug high tension leads.
12. Remove the crank position sensor (E) located on
the mag cover.
E
13. Remove the air breather line .
F
14. Disconnect the coolant hoses. Properly dispose
of any antifreeze from the engine or hoses.
15. Refer to PVT System Chapter 6 to remove outer
clutch cover, drive belt, drive clutch, driven clutch,
and inner cover (F).
16. When removing starter cables, note and mark
ground cable and positive(+) cable mounting
angle and locations . Remove cables.
17. Remove transmission linkage rod from gear
selector and secure out of the way.
18. Disconnect coolant temperature sensor wire
located on the cylinder.
19. Remove engine to chassis ground cable.
20. Remove all engine mount nuts and / or engine
mount plates. Remove the frame brace (F) from
the front left side of the frame.
ENGINE
3.17
F
21. Remove the engine from the left side of the frame.
NOTE: Use caution when lifting the engine out of
frame. Use an engine lift or other means if the engine
is too heavy to be lifted manually.
22. For engine installation, reverse procedures.
ENGINE INSTALLATION NOTES
After the engine is installed in the frame, review this
checklist and perform all steps that apply:
General Items
1. Install previously removed components using
new gaskets, seals, and fasteners where
applicable.
2. Perform regular checks on fluid levels, controls,
and all important areas on the vehicle as outlined
in the daily pre-ride inspection checklist (refer to
Chapter 2 or the Owner’s Manual).
PVT System
1. Adjust center distance of drive and driven clutch.
(Chapter 6)
2. Adjust clutch offset, alignment, and belt
deflection. (Chapter 6)
3. Clean clutch sheaves thoroughly and inspect inlet
and outlet ducts for proper routing and sealing.
(Chapter 6)
Transmission
1. Inspect transmission operation and adjust linkage
if necessary. Refer to Chapter 2 and Chapter 8.
Exhaust
1. Replace exhaust gaskets. Seal connections with
high temp silicone sealant.
2. Check to be sure all springs are in good condition.
Bleed Cooling System
NOTE: This cooling system contains vent lines to
help purge trapped air during filling. Refer to Page
3.15 for hose routing. Bleeding generally should not
be necessary.
1. Remove radiator cap and slowly add coolant to
the bottom of filler neck.
2. Fill coolant reservoir tank to full mark.
3. Install radiator cap and gently squeeze coolant
hoses to force any trapped air out of system.
4. Again, remove radiator cap and slowly add
coolant to the bottom of fill neck if needed.
5. Start engine and observe coolant level in the
radiator. Allow air to purge and top off as
necessary. Reinstall radiator cap and bring
engine to operating temperature. After engine is
cool, check level in reservoir tank and add coolant
if necessary.
NOTE: Should the reservoir tank become empty, it
will be necessary to refill at the radiator and repeat the
bleeding procedure.
ENGINE
3.18
Engine Break In Period
The break in period for a Polaris ATV engine is defined
as the first ten hours of operation, or the time it takes
to use two full tanks of gasoline. No single action on
your part is as important as a proper break in period.
Careful treatment of a new engine will result in more
efficient performance and longer life for the engine.
Perform the following procedures carefully.
Use only Polaris Premium 0--40W All Season
synthetic oil or equivalent. Never substitute or
mix oil brands. Serious engine damage and
voiding of warranty can result.
Do not operate at full throttle or high speeds for
extended periods during the first three hours of
use. Excessive heat can build up and cause
damage to close fitted engine parts.
CAUTION
1. Fill fuel tank with unleaded or leaded fuel which
has a minimum pump octane number of 87= (R+
M)/2.
2. Check oil reservoir level indicated on dipstick.
Add oil if necessary.
SAFE ADD 8 OZ
3. Drive slowly at first to gradually bring engine up to
operating temperature.
4. Vary throttle positions. Do not operate at
sustained idle or sustained high speed.
5. Perform regular checks on fluid levels, controls
and all important areas on the vehicle.
6. Pull only light loads during initial break in.
7. Change break in oil and filter at 20 hours or 200
miles.
ENGINE
3.19
CYLINDER HONE SELECTION
AND HONING PROCEDURE
CAUTION:
A hone which will straighten as well as remove
material from the cylinder is very important. Using a
common spring loaded glaze breaker for honing is not
advised for nicasil cylinders. Polaris recommends
using a rigid hone or arbor honing machine.
Cylinders may be wet or dry honed depending upon
the hone manufacturer’s recommendations. Wet
honing removes more material faster and leaves a
more distinct pattern in the bore.
HONING TO DEGLAZE
A finished cylinder should have a cross-hatch pattern
to ensure piston ring seating and to aid in the retention
of the fuel/oil mixture during initial break in. Hone
cylinder according to hone manufacturer’s
instructions, or these guidelines:
SHoning should be done with a
diamond hone. Cylinder could be
damaged if the hone is not hard
enough to scratch the nicasil lining.
SUse a motor speed of approximately
300-500 RPM, run the hone in and
out of the cylinder rapidly until cutting
tension decreases. Remember to
keep the hone drive shaft centered
(or cylinder centered on arbor) and to
bring the stones approximately 1/2″
(1.3 cm) above and below the bore at
the end of each stroke.
SRelease the hone at regular intervals
and inspect the bore to determine if
it has been sufficiently deglazed, and
to check for correct cross--hatch.
NOTE:Do not allow cylinder to
heat up during honing.
SAfter honing has been completed,
inspect cylinder for thinning or
peeling.
If cylinder wear or damage is excessive, it will be
necessary to replace the cylinder. The cylinders are
lined with a nicasil coating and are not repairable.
Hone only enough to deglaze the outer layer of the
cylinder bore.
EXAMPLE OF CROSS HATCH PATTERN
IMPORTANT: Clean the Cylinder After Honing
It is very important that the cylinder be thoroughly
cleaned after honing to remove all grit material. Wash
the cylinder in a solvent, then in hot, soapy water. Use
electrical contact cleaner if necessary to clean these
areas. Rinse thoroughly, dry with compressed air,
and oil the bore immediately with Polaris 4 Cycle
Lubricant to prevent the formation of surface rust.
ENGINE LUBRICATION
Oil Type -- Polaris Premium 0W--40 Synthetic (PN
2871281)
Capacity -- Approximately 2 U.S. Quarts (1.9 l)
Filter -- (PN 2540086)
Filter Wrench -- PV--43527 or equivalent
Oil Pressure Specification -- 35--39 PSI @ 5500
RPM, Polaris 0W--40 Synthetic , Engine at operating
temperature.
NOTE: See Chapter 1 for oil change kit part numbers.
OIL PRESSURE TEST
1. Remove blind plug/sender from left side of
crankcase.
2. Insert a 1/8 NPT oil pressure gauge adaptor into
the crankcase and attach the gauge.
3. Start engine and allow it to reach operating
temperature, monitoring gauge indicator.
NOTE: Use only Polaris Premium 0W--40 Synthetic
Engine Lubricant.
Oil Pressure at 5500 RPM (Engine Hot):
Standard: 39 PSI
Minimum: 35 PSI
ENGINE
3.20
OIL FLOW
This chart describes the flow of oil through the 600/700/800 engine. Beginning in the crankcase sump, the oil
is drawn through an oil galley to the feed side of the oil pump. The oil is then pumped through the oil filter. If the
oil filter is obstructed, a bypass valve contained in the filter allows oil to bypass the filter element. At this point,
the oil is supplied to the main oil galley through a crankcase passage. Oil is then diverted three ways from the
main oil galley, with the first path entering the camshaft bores, onto the rear balance shaft journal and then draining
back into the crankcase sump. The second oil path from the main oil galley feeds the lifter bores and then drains
back to the crankcase sump. The third oil path flows through a crankcase galley to the MAG side crankshaft
journal and also to the front balance shaft journal and onto the crankcase sump. The oil pressure switch is fed
off the main oil galley.
Main Oil Gallery
Counterbalance
Bore
Lifter Bores
Camshaft
Bore Camshaft
Bore
Camshaft
Bore
Crankshaft
Rod
Bearings
Counterbalance
Bore
Oil Pressure
Relief
Crankshaft
Main Bearing
Crankcase
Sump
Sump
Crankcase
Pump Filter
MAGNETO
SIDE
PTO
SIDE
Main Bearing
ENGINE
3.21
ROCKER ARM INSPECTION
1. Mark or tag rocker arms in order of disassembly to
keep them in order for reassembly.
2. Inspect the wear pad at the valve end of the rocker
arm for indications of scuffing or abnormal wear.
If the pad is grooved, replace the rocker arm.
NOTE: Do not attempt to true this surface by
grinding.
3. Check the rocker arm pad and fulcrum seat for
excessive wear, cracks, nicks or burrs.
PUSH ROD INSPECTION
1. Clean push rods (A) in a suitable solvent. Blow
dry push rods with compressed air.
2. Use compressed air to confirm the oil passage is
clear in the center of the push rod.
WARNING
Always wear safety glasses when workingwith
compressed air to prevent personal injury.
3. Check the ends of the push rods (A) for nicks,
grooves, roughness or excessive wear.
4. The push rods (A) can be visually checked for
straightness while they are installed in the engine
by rotating them with the valve closed. Push rods
canalsobecheckedwithadialindicatororrolled
across a flat surface to check for straightness.
5. If the push rod (A) is visibly bent, it should be
replaced.
A
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
1. Loosen the six cylinder head bolts evenly 1/8 turn
each in a criss--cross pattern until loose.
2. Remove bolts (A) and tap cylinder head (B) lightly
with a soft face hammer until loose. CAUTION:
Tap only in reinforced areas or on thick parts of
cylinder head casting to avoid damaging the head
or cylinder.
3. Remove cylinder head (B) and head gasket (C)
from the cylinder (D).
A
B
C
D
ENGINE
3.22
CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION
1. Thoroughly clean cylinder head surface to
remove all traces of gasket material and carbon.
CAUTION: Use care not to damage sealing surface.
CYLINDER HEAD WARPAGE
1. Lay a straight edge (A) across the surface of the
cylinder head (B) at several different points and
measure warpage by inserting a feeler gauge
between the straight edge and the cylinder head
surface. If warpage exceeds the service limit,
replace the cylinder head.
Bottom Side View
B
A
Measure at different points
on the surface.
Cylinder Head Warpage Limit:
004″(.1016 mm) Max.
CYLINDER HEAD
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: The following procedure is only for
servicing the top end of the valve train when
replacing valve springs or replacing valve seals.
Valve Train Servicing
In some cases the valve train can be serviced while
the cylinder head is still on the engine. Keep all parts
in order with respect to their location in the cylinder
head.
WARNING
Wear eye protection or a face shield during
cylinder head disassembly and reassembly.
1. Having already removed the valve cover, rocker
arms and pushrods, align the cylinder to be
worked on at top dead center. Install the Valve
Pressure Hose (PU--45652) into the spark plug
hole. Hook the hose to an air compressor and
supply 50 to100 psi to the hose. This will seat the
valves during valve spring removal. Do not
remove air from the hose at anytime until
reassembly is completed.
2. Using the Valve Spring Compressor (PU--45257),
compress the valve spring and remove the valve
keepers. NOTE: A small parts magnet (A) can aid
in the removal of the retainers (B).
B
A
PU--45257
Valve Spring Compressor:
(PU--45257)
Valve Pressure Hose:
(PU--45652)
NOTE: To prevent damage to the valve seals, do not
compress the valve spring more than is needed to
remove the valve keepers.
3. Remove spring retainer and spring.
4. The valve seals are now serviceable.
ENGINE
3.23
CYLINDER HEAD DISASSEMBLY, CONT.
NOTE: Carefully remove the cylinder components.
Place the hydraulic lifters (C), pushrods (D), and
rocker arms (E) in a safe, clean area.
DC
E
5. Measure free length of spring with a Vernier caliper.
Compare to specifications. Replace spring if
measurement is out of specification.
Valve Spring
Free Length
Valve Spring Length:
Std: 1.735I(44.069 mm)
6. Remove valve guide seals. IMPORTANT: It is
recommended to replace seals whenever the
cylinder head is disassembled. Hardened,
cracked or worn valve seals will cause excessive
oil consumption and carbon buildup.
7. Mark the valves with a white pen. Remove the
valves from the cylinder head. This will ensure
that the valves are properly placed during engine
reassembly.
Mark the valves
ENGINE
3.24
VALVE INSPECTION
1. Remove all carbon from valves with a soft wire
wheel or brush.
2. Check valve face for runout, pitting, and burnt
spots. To check for bent valve stems, mount
valve in a drill or use “V” blocks and a dial
indicator.
3. Check end of valve stem for flaring, pitting, wear
or damage (A).
A
B
4. Inspect split keeper groove for wear or flaring of
the keeper seat area (B). NOTE: The valves can
be re-faced or end ground, if necessary. They
must be replaced if extensively worn, burnt, bent,
or damaged.
5. Measure diameter of valve stem with a
micrometer in three places, then rotate 90
degrees and measure again (six measurements
total). Compare to specifications.
Valve Stem Diameter:
Intake: 0.2356” ±0.00039”
(5.985 ±0.01 mm)
Exhaust: 0.2351” ±0.00039”
(5.972 ±0.01 mm)
Measure valve stem in several places.
Rotate the valve 90 degrees and mea-
sure for wear.
6. Measure valve guide inside diameter at the top
middle and end of the guide using a small hole
gauge and a micrometer. Measure in two
directions.
Valve Guide
Valve Guide I.D.:
0.23672” ±0.000295”
(6.0617 ±0.0075 mm)
7. Subtract valve stem measurement from the valve
guide measurement to obtain stem to guide
clearance. NOTE: The valve guides cannot be
replaced. Be sure to measure each guide and
valve combination individually.
ENGINE
3.25
COMBUSTION CHAMBER
1. Clean all accumulated carbon deposits from
combustion chamber and valve seat area with
carbon cleaner and a soft plastic scraper.
IMPORTANT: Do not use a wire brush, metal scraper,
or abrasive cleaners to clean the bottom of the
cylinder head. Extensive damage to the cylinder head
may result. Wear safety glasses during cleaning.
Combustion Area
VALVE SEAT
RECONDITIONING
Cylinder Head Reconditioning
NOTE: Polaris recommends that the work be done
by a local machine shop that specializes in this area.
NOTE: The cylinder head valve guides cannot be
replaced.
WARNING
Wear eye protection or a face shield during
cylinder head disassembly and reassembly.
Valve Seat Inspection
Inspect valve seat in cylinder head for pitting, burnt
spots, roughness, and uneven surface. If any of the
above conditions exist, the valve seat must be
reconditioned. If the valve seat is cracked the cylinder
head must be replaced.
Follow the manufacturers instructions provided with
the valve seat cutters in the Cylinder Head
Reconditioning Kit (PN 2200634). Abrasive stone
seat reconditioning equipment can also be used.
Keep all valves in order with their respective seat.
NOTE: Valve seat width and point of contact on the
valve face is very important for proper sealing. The
valve must contact the valve seat over the entire
circumference of the seat, and the seat must be the
proper width all the way around. If the seat is uneven,
compression leakage will result. If the seat is too
wide, seat pressure is reduced, causing carbon
accumulation and possible compression loss. If the
seat is too narrow, heat transfer from valve to seat is
reduced. The valve may overheat and warp, resulting
in burnt valves.
Too
Wide Uneven Good Too
Narrow
1. Install pilot into valve guide.
2. Apply cutting oil to valve seat and cutter.
3. Place 46°cutter on the pilot and make a light cut.
4. Inspect the cut area of the seat:
SIf the contact area is less than 75%
of the circumference of the seat,
rotate the pilot 180°and make
another light cut.
SIf the cutter now contacts the uncut
portion of the seat, check the pilot.
Look for burrs, nicks, or runout. If the
pilot is bent it must be replaced.
ENGINE
3.26
VALVE SEAT RECONDITIONING CONT’D
SIf the contact area of the cutter is in
the same place, the valve guide is
distorted from improper installation.
SIf the contact area of the initial cut is
greater than 75%, continue to cut the
seat until all pits are removed and a
new seat surface is evident. NOTE:
Remove only the amount of material
necessary to repair the seat surface.
5. To check the contact area of the seat on the valve
face, apply a thin coating of Prussian Bluetpaste
to the valve seat. If using an interference angle
(46°) apply black permanent marker to the entire
valveface(A).
(A)
6. Insert valve into guide and tap valve lightly into
place a few times.
7. Remove valve and check where the Prussian
Bluetindicates seat contact on the valve face.
The valve seat should contact the middle of the
valve face or slightly above, and must be the
proper width.
SIf the indicated seat contact is at the
top edge of the valve face and
contacts the margin area(B) it is too
high on the valve face. Use the 30°
cutter to lower the valve seat.
SIf too low, use the 60°cutter to raise
the seat. When contact area is
centered on the valve face, measure
seat width.
SIf the seat is too wide or uneven, use
both top and bottom cutters to
narrow the seat.
SIf the seat is too narrow, widen using
the 45°cutter and re-check contact
point on the valve face and seat width
after each cut.
NOTE: When using an interference angle, the seat
contact point on the valve will be very narrow, and is
a normal condition. Look for an even and continuous
contact point all the way around the valve face. (B)
(A)
(B)
Proper Seat Contact On Valve Face
Bottom - 60°Seat - 45°
Top - 30°
Seat
Width
Valve Seat Width:
Intake Std: .028I(.7 mm)
Limit: .055I(1.4 mm)
Exhaust Std: .039I(1.0 mm)
Limit: .071I(1.8 mm)
ENGINE
3.27
VALVE SEAT RECONDITIONING CONT”D
8. Clean all filings from the area with hot soapy
water, rinse, and dry with compressed air.
WARNING
Wear eye protection or a face shield when
working with compressed air during cylinder
head disassembly and reassembly.
9. Lubricate the valve guides with clean engine oil,
and apply oil or water based lapping compound to
the face of the valve. NOTE: Lapping is not
required with an interference angle valve job.
10. Insert the valve into its respective guide and lap
using a lapping tool or a section of fuel line
connected to the valve stem.
11. Rotate the valve rapidly back and forth until the
cut sounds smooth. Lift the valve slightly off of the
seat, rotate 1/4 turn, and repeat the lapping
process. Do this four to five times until the valve is
fully seated, and repeat process for the other
valve(s).
12. Thoroughly clean cylinder head and valves.
CYLINDER HEAD
REASSEMBLY
NOTE: Assemble the valves one at a time to maintain
proper order.
1. Apply engine oil to valve guides and seats.
2. Coat valve stem with molybdenum disulfide
grease or 0W--40 Synthetic oil.
3. Install valve carefully with a rotating motion to
avoid damaging valve seal.
4. Valve seals should be installed after the valves
are in the head to avoid valve seal damage. Install
new valve seals on valve guides.
5. Dip valve spring and retainer in clean engine oil
and install.
6. Place retainer on spring and install Valve Spring
Compressor (PU--45257). Install split keepers
with the gap even on both sides. NOTE: A small
parts magnet can aid in installation of the
keepers.
(PU--45257)
7. Repeat procedure for remaining valves. When all
valves are installed, tap lightly with soft faced
hammer on the end of the valves to seat the split
keepers. NOTE: To prevent damage to the valve
seals, do not compress the valve spring more
than necessary to install the keepers.
ENGINE
3.28
VALVE SEALING TEST
1. Clean and dry the combustion chamber area (A).
Refer to Page 3.25 for cleaning tips.
2. Pour a small amount of clean solvent onto the
intake port and check for leakage around each
intake valve. The valve seats should hold fluid
with no seepage.
3. Repeat for exhaust valves by pouring fluid into
exhaust port.
A
VALVE TRAIN EXPLODED VIEW
HEAD
VALVES
SPRINGS
RETAINER LOCKS
SPRING RETAINERS
SPRING SEATS
ROCKER ARMS
PUSH RODS
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
22 ±2 ft. lbs.
(30 ±3Nm)
ENGINE
3.29
ENGINE HEAD REASSEMBLY
Before reassembly, clean the bolts and bolt holes with
Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any debris. This
will ensure proper sealing when installing bolts.
1. Install the head gasket (A) on the cylinder (B).
A
B
2. Install cylinder head on cylinder.
3. Lubricate threads and top of washers underside
of bolt head with engine oil. Install head bolts (C).
Torque to 35 ±4 ft. lbs. (47.5 ±5.5 Nm) in
sequence provided (Pg.3.11). Allow the gasket to
set for 1 minute at this torque, then turn bolts 90°
(1/4 turn) in sequence . Refer to Page 3.11 for
tightening sequence.
C
Cylinder Head Bolt Torque:
-- Allow to set for 1 min.
(47.5 ±5.5 Nm)
Then turn additional 90°(1/4 turn)
*Torque Bolts In Sequence (Pg. 3.11)
35 ±4 ft. lbs.
4. Lubricate push rods (D) and install into lifters.
D
5. Lubricate rockers (E) with engine oil.
E
6. Verify pushrods are engaged in lifters.
7. Install rockers. Be sure that tab of fulcrum (F) is
seated in head stand-off. Torque bolts to 22 ±2
ft. lbs. (30 ±3 Nm).
F
Rocker Arm Bolt Torque:
22 ±2 ft. lbs.
(30 ±3Nm)
ENGINE
3.30
ENGINE HEAD REASSEMBLY CONT’D
8. Install breather reed (G) into rocker cover (H).
Lightly apply black RTV sealant to the outer
edges of the breather reed. The reed has a tab
and will assemble one way only. Torque the
breather bolts to 20 ±5in.lbs.(2.5±0.55 Nm).
NOTE: When applying RTV, do not get any RTV
inside the reed assembly.
9. Place a new seal (I) into the bottom of the cover.
Be sure the seal is seated into the cover properly.
G
I
H
20 ±5in.lbs.
(2.5 ±.55 Nm)
REMINDER: Before assembly, clean the bolts and
bolt holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any
debris. This will ensure proper sealing when installing
bolts.
10. Install rocker cover. Torque bolts to 84 ±8in.lbs.
(9.5 ±0.9 Nm). See Page 3.6 for proper torque
sequence.
Rocker Cover Bolt Torque:
84 ±8 in. lbs. (9.5 ±0.9 Nm)
*Torque In Proper Sequence (Pg. 3.6)
11. Install thermostat (J), new O--ring, and
thermostat housing. Torque thermostat housing
bolts to 84 ±8in.lbs.(9.5±0.9 Nm).
J
84 ±8in.lbs.
(9.5 ±0.9 Nm)
25 ±3 ft. lbs.
(34 ±4Nm)
Thermostat Housing Bolt Torque:
84 ±8 in. lbs. (9.5 ±0.9 Nm)
12. Install temperature sender (K) and torque to 200 ±
20 in. lbs. (1.4 ±.14 Nm).
200 ±20 in. lbs.
(1.4 ±.14 Nm)
K
K
Temperature Sender Torque:
200 ±20in.lbs.(1.4±.14 Nm)
ENGINE
3.31
CYLINDER REMOVAL
1. Follow engine disassembly procedures to
remove rocker cover and cylinder head.
2. Tap cylinder (A) lightly with a rubber mallet in the
reinforced areas only until loose.
3. Rock cylinder forward and backward while lifting it
from the crankcase, supporting pistons and
connecting rods. Support pistons with Piston
Support Block (PN 2870390).
A
VALVE LIFTER
REMOVAL/INSPECTION
1. Remove the valve lifter’s by reaching into the
crankcase and pushing the lifter up through the
lifter bore by hand.
2. Thoroughly clean the lifters in cleaning solvent
and wipe them with a clean lint-free cloth.
3. Mark the lifters with a white pen if using the lifters
for reassembly. This will ensure that the lifters are
properly placed during engine reassembly.
Mark the Hydraulic Lifter
4. Check the lifters for wear or scores.
5. Check the bottom end of lifter to make sure that it
has a slight convex.
6. If the bottom surface has worn flat, it may be used
with the original camshaft only.
Inspect Hydraulic Lifter
NOTE: Lifters that are scored, worn, or if the bottom
is not smooth should be replaced with new lifters and
cam as an assembly. If replacing the lifters, the
camshaft should also be replaced.
PISTON REMOVAL
1. Remove circlip (A). Mark the piston with a white
pen to ensure proper orientation (if reused) during
assembly.
A
Mark the piston
NOTE: If the pistons are to be reused, reassemble
the pistons in the same cylinder and direction from
which they were removed.
NOTE: New pistons are non--directional and can be
placed in either cylinder.
ENGINE
3.32
2. Remove piston circlip and push piston pin out of
piston. If necessary, heat the crown of the piston
slightly with a propane torch. CAUTION: Do not
apply heat to the piston rings. The ring may lose
radial tension.
3. Remove top compression ring:
*Using a piston ring pliers: Carefully expand ring
and lift it off the piston. CAUTION: Do not expand the
ring more than the amount necessary to remove it
from the piston, or the ring may break.
*Byhand: Placing both thumbs as shown, spread the
ring open and push up on the opposite side. Do not
scratch the ring lands.
4. Repeat procedure for second ring.
5. Remove the oil control ring.
The oil control ring is a three piece design consisting
of a top and bottom steel rail and a center expander
section. The top rail has a locating tab on the end
which fits into a notch (B) in the upper oil ring land of
the piston. To Remove:
a) Remove the top rail first followed by the bottom rail.
b) Remove the expander.
Oil Ring
Compression
Rings B
CYLINDER INSPECTION
1. Remove all gasket material from the cylinder
sealing surfaces.
2. Inspect the top of the cylinder (B) for warpage
using a straight edge (A) and feeler gauge (C).
Refer to Ill. 1 and Ill. 2.
Top View
B
A
Measure at different points
on the surface.
Ill.1
Ill.2
A
B
C
Cylinder Warpage.
.004″(0.1 mm) Max.
ENGINE
3.33
3. Inspect cylinder for wear, scratches, or damage.
4. Inspect cylinder for taper and out of round with a
telescoping gauge or a dial bore gauge. Measure
in two different directions, front to back and side to
side, on three different levels (1/2″down from top,
in the middle, and 1/2″up from bottom).
1/2″Down From Top of Cylinder
1/2″Up From Bottom
X
X
Y
Y
X
Y
5. Record measurements. If cylinder is tapered or
out of round beyond .002, the cylinder must be
replaced.
Cylinder Taper
Limit: .002I(.05mm)Max.
Cylinder Out of Round
Limit: .002I(.05mm)Max.
Standard Bore Size (Both Cylinders):
Sportsman 700 / 800 : 3.1496I(80 mm)
PISTON-TO-CYLINDER
CLEARANCE
Measure piston outside diameter at a point 5 mm up
from the bottom of the piston at a right angle to the
direction of the piston pin.
Subtract this measurement from the maximum
cylinder measurement obtained in Step 5.
5mm
Piston
Piston Pin
Piston to Cylinder Clearance
Refer To Engine Service Data
Pg. 3.12 -- 3.14
Piston O.D.
Refer To Engine Service Data
Pg. 3.12 -- 3.14
ENGINE
3.34
PISTON/ROD INSPECTION
1. Measure piston pin bore.
Piston Pin Bore:
Refer To Engine Service
Data
Pg. 3.12 -- 3.14
2. Measure piston pin O.D. Replace piston and/or
piston pin if out of tolerance.
Piston Pin Measurement Locations
Piston Pin O.D.
Refer To Engine Service Data
Pg. 3.12 -- 3.14
3. Measure connecting rod small end ID.
Connecting Rod Small End I.D.
Refer To Engine Service Data
Pg. 3.12 -- 3.14
ENGINE
3.35
4. Measure piston ring to groove clearance by
placing the ring in the ring land and measuring
with a thickness gauge. Replace piston and rings
if ring-to-groove clearance exceeds service
limits.
Piston
Ring
Feeler Gauge
Piston Ring-to-Ring Groove Clearance
Refer To Engine Service Data
Pg. 3.12 -- 3.14
PISTON RING INSTALLED GAP
1. Place each piston ring (A) inside cylinder (B)
using piston to push ring squarely into place as
shown. (See next page)
25-50mm
B
A
C
Piston Ring Installed Gap
Refer To Engine Service Data
Pg. 3.12 -- 3.14
NOTE: Ring should be installed with the mark facing
upward.
2. Measure installed gap with a feeler gauge (C) at
both the top and bottom of the cylinder.
REMINDER: A difference in end gap indicates
cylinder taper. The cylinder should be measured
for excessive taper and out of round.
3. If the bottom installed gap measurement exceeds
the service limit, replace the rings. If ring gap is
smaller than the specified limit, file ring ends until
gap is within specified range.
NOTE: Always check piston ring installed gap after
re-boring a cylinder or when installing new rings. A
re-bored cylinder should always be scrubbed
thoroughly with hot soapy water, rinsed, and dried
completely. Wipe cylinder bore with oil immediately to
remove residue and prevent rust.
ENGINE
3.36
STARTER DRIVE/BENDIX
REMOVAL/INSPECTION
1. Remove stator housing bolts and remove
housing.
2. Remove the flywheel nut and washer. Install
Flywheel Puller (PN 2871043) and remove
flywheel. CAUTION: Do not thread the puller
bolts into the flywheel more than 1/4″or stator
coils may be damaged.
3. Remove starter bendix assembly (A). Note the
thrust washers located on both sides of the
bendix.
B
4. Inspect the thrust washer for wear or damage and
replace if necessary.
5. After the bendix is removed, tap on the starter
assembly with a soft faced mallet to loosen the
starter from the crankcase.
B
6. Inspect gear teeth on starter drive (B). Replace
starter drive if gear teeth are cracked, worn, or
broken.
7. Inspect the bendix bushing (C) in the mag cover
for wear. Replace as needed.
C
ENGINE
3.37
FLYWHEEL/STATOR
REMOVAL/INSPECTION
1. Remove stator housing bolts and remove
housing.
Remove
Stator Cover
2. Remove flywheel nut and washer.
3. Install Flywheel Puller (PN 2871043) and remove
flywheel (A). CAUTION: Do not thread the puller
bolts into the flywheel more than 1/4″or stator
coils may be damaged.
2871043
A
4. Use caution when removing the wire holddown
(B), trigger coil (C), and the stator assembly (D).
Do not tap or bump the gear /stator housing
cover or the stator. This could cause the seal
around the gear/stator housing cover and the
crankcase to break, causing a leak.
D
C
E
B
5. Remove the bendix (E) if necessary.
FLYWHEEL/STATOR
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Before assembly, clean the bolts and bolt
holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any
debris. This will ensure proper sealing when installing
bolts.
1. Carefully install the stator and trigger coil to the
gear/stator housing cover. Do not tap on the
stator or the gear stator housing cover. This
may cause a leak in between the gear/stator
housing cover and the crankcase.
2. Properly place the stator wires under the wire
holddown and install the bolts. Inspect the bolts, if
new bolts are needed, replace them with new
bolts. The new bolts contain patch lock, so
Loctitetis not needed on the new bolts. Torque
bolts to 96 ±12 in.lbs. (10.85 ±0.35 Nm).
3. Install the starter bendix if removed.
4. Install woodruff key. Install the flywheel. Install
the flywheel washer and nut. Torque the flywheel
nut to 65 ±7 ft.lbs. (88 ±9.50 Nm)
ENGINE
3.38
Flywheel Nut Torque:
65 ±7 ft. lbs. (88 ±9.50 Nm)
5. Inspect the mating surface around the gear/stator
housing cover and the crankcase for oil seepage.
If there is seepage between the mating surfaces,
then the gear/stator housing cover must be
resealed. Clean the gearcase surfaces and
reseal with a new gasket. Refer to the Lower
Engine Disassembly section and the Lower
Engine Assembly section for details. lnspect the
areas pointed out in the illustration for possible oil
seepage.
FLYWHEEL/STATOR INSTALLATION
6. Install stator housing with new O-rings. Torque
the bolts to 96 ±12 in. lbs. (1.85 ±1.35 Nm).
Follow bolt torque sequence on Pg. 3.4.
96±12 in.lbs.
Stator Housing Bolt Torque:
96 ±12 in.lbs. (1.85 ±1.35 Nm)
*Torque Bolts In Sequence 3.4)
ENGINE CRANKCASE
DISASSEMBLY/INSPECTION
1. Remove the stator cover (A) and water pump
cover (B).
B
A
2. Remove the nylok nut (C), washer (D), and water
pump impeller (E). Remove part of the water
pump seal behind the impeller.
E
CD
3. Remove flywheel nut and washer.
ENGINE
3.39
4. Install Flywheel Puller (PN 2871043) and remove
flywheel (F). CAUTION: Do not thread the puller
bolts into the flywheel more than 1/4″or stator
coils may be damaged.
2871043
F
5. Remove the starter bendix (G), wire holddown
plate (H), and the woodruff key (I) from the
crankshaft. The stator does not have to be
removed at this point.
G
I
H
6. Remove the gear/stator housing bolts and
remove the gear/stator housing cover (J) and
gasket from the crankcase. Be sure to catch the
excess oil from the crankcase.
J
7. Note the positions of the gears in the photo.
Crank Gear Counterbalance Gear
Camshaft Gear
8. Use a white pen to accent the timing marks on the
following gears: camshaft gear (K), crankshaft
gear (M), or counterbalance gear (N) This will
ensure proper gear alignment and timing during
reassembly of the gears.
Timing Marks K
MN
Water Pump Gear
ENGINE
3.40
NOTE: If replacing one of the gears, it is
recommended that all of the gears be replaced. A
gear kit is available in the parts book.
Cam Gear Removal
9. Use the Cam Gear Tooth Alignment Tool
(PU--45497--2) (O) to align the cam split gear
assembly. With the split gear aligned, remove the
bolt and cam gear assembly.
PU--45497--2 O
NOTE: Install the Cam Gear Tooth Alignment Tool
(PU--45497--2) into the assembly hole counter
clockwise from the timing mark as shown.
Cam Gear Alignment Tool:
(PU--45497--2)
Cam Gear Disassembly
10. Inspect the cam gear teeth and check to make
sure there is spring tension offsetting the teeth
between the two gears. If there is no tension,
check the springs inside of the cam gear
assembly.
3 Loaded Springs
11. The cam gear assembly contains three loaded
springs. To open the cam gear assembly:
SPlace the cam gear on a flat surface
with the timing mark side facing up.
SWhile holding both gears together,
lightly work a small flathead
screwdriver between the two gears.
SRemove the top gear. The springs
should stay in place.
CAUTION:
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES. USE
CAUTION WHEN WORKING WITH THE TOP
GEAR. THE SPRINGS COULD CAUSE INJURY OR
BECOME LOST SHOULD THEY POP OUT.
12. Remove all three springs using one of the tapered
pins from the Tapered Pins (PU--45497--1).
PU--45497--1PU--45497--1
13. With a white marking pen, accent the timing mark
on the gear that contains the springs.
Accent the Timing Marks
14. Inspect the gear teeth and the three tabs on the
gears for wear.
ENGINE
3.41
Inspect Teeth & Tabs
Replace Three Springs
Cam Gear Reassembly
15. Install the new springs into the grooves of the cam
gear.
Insert Springs
16. Insert the pointed dowels from the Tapered Pins
(PU--45497--1) into the cam gear.
PU--45497--1
To assemble:
SHold the spring with one finger.
SStart the pointed end of the tapered
pin into the cam gear hole and slowly
push the dowel through the hole until
the end of the dowel is almost flush
with the spring.
SPerform this procedure with all three
tapered pins.
SDo not push the pins too far
through orthe springs will pop out.
NOTE: Do not remove the tapered pins at this time.
17. Note in the photograph that the Tapered Pins
(PU--45497--1) are below flush with end of the
springs. This helps to align the three gear tabs
during the next step.
PU--45497--1
ENGINE
3.42
Cam Gear Spring Installation Tool Kit:
(PU--45497)
Tapered Pins:
(PU--45497--1)
Cam Gear Tooth Align Tool:
(PU--45497--2)
18. Line up the two gears using the timing marks and
the three gear tabs that were referenced earlier.
Push the gears back together, using both hands
and hold securely.
Align Timing Marks
19. Once the gears are pressed together, firmly hold
the gears together with one hand. Carefully
remove the Tapered Pins (PU--45497--1)by
pulling them out one at a time with the other hand.
20. After the tapered pins are removed, be sure the
cam gear assembly is held together tightly. Place
the cam gear assembly on a flat surface. Use the
Cam Gear Tooth Alignment Tool (PU--45497--2)
(R) to align the teeth of the cam gears, as shown
in the picture.
NOTE: Install the Cam Gear Alignment Tool
(PU--45497--2) into one assembly hole counter
clockwise from the timing mark.
PU--45497--2
NOTE: For ease of installing the Cam Gear
Alignment Tool (PU--45497--2) (R), use a twisting
motion when pushing down on the tool.
21. To remove the balance shaft gear, the flat side of
the camshaft (P) must face the balance shaft
gear. To rotate the camshaft, use the Cam
Spanner Wrench (PU--45498) to rotate the
camshaft so the flat side of the camshaft faces the
balance shaft gear.
PU--45498
P
NOTE: This Cam Spanner Wrench (PU--45498)is
only needed to rotate the camshaft when the entire
valve train is assembled. If the rocker arms are
removed, the cam--shaft can be turned by hand.
22. Remove the bolt and nut from the balance shaft
gear. Try to remove the balance shaft gear. If the
gear does not come off manually, use the
Flywheel Puller (PN 2871043) to remove the
ENGINE
3.43
balance shaft gear.
2871043
23. Inspect the crankshaft gear (Q) for broken or worn
teeth. If the crankshaft gear does not need to
be replaced, it does not need to be removed.If
the crankshaft gear is damaged, remove the
crankshaft gear with the Flywheel Puller (PN
2871043).
Q
24. Install the two puller bolts (R). Tighten the puller
bolts up so that the bolts are at equal length.
R
25. Install the Flywheel Puller (PN 2871043) and
remove the crankshaft gear, if needed.
2871043
Water/Oil Pump Removal/Disassembly
26. Rotate the water/oil pump gear (S), so that all four
bolts are visible though the gear. Remove the four
bolts with a hex wrench. Pull out the pump.
S
27. Inspect the oil pump rotors for wear. Mark the
rotors with a white pen to ensure upon
reassembly that the correct sides of the rotors are
installed and mesh with the same edges as
previously installed.
Mark Rotors
NOTE: If replacing the old rotors, new replacement
rotors will fit into the old oil/water pump housing.
ENGINE
3.44
Oil Rotor Clearance
28. Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance
between the two rotors. Measure the gap
between the two rotor tips as shown below. The
clearance should not exceed 0.006” (0.15 mm).
0.006” (0.15 mm)
Max Tip Clearance
29. Remove the oil pressure relief. The oil pressure
relief consists of a bolt, washer, spring, and valve
(dowel). Inspect the the valve (dowel) for signs of
possible obstructions. Use compressed air to
blow out any debris.
30. Reinstall the valve (dowel chamfered end first).
Install the spring, washer, and bolt. Torque the
bolt to 22 ±2 ft. lbs. (30 ±3 Nm).
22 ±2 ft.lbs.
(30 ±3Nm)
Chamfered
end first
NOTE: Be sure to place the tapered end of the valve
(dowel) in first. If the valve is installed incorrectly, oil
pressure and oil priming problems will occur.
DISASSEMBLY OF WATER/OIL PUMP SHAFT
WARNING Wear appropriate safety gear
during this procedure. Protective gloves,
clothing and eyewear are required.
31. Carefully press the gear off the assembly while
supporting the housing assembly.
Press off gear
32. Remove the snap ring from the assembly. Place
the housing in a support and press out the
bearing/shaft assembly.
ENGINE
3.45
Retaining Ring
Bearing
Press out
shaft and
bearing
assembly
33. Place the shaft in a press to remove the bearing.
Bearing
WATER/OIL PUMP REASSEMBLY
34. Press new bearing onto the shaft.
Bearing
35. Press the bearing/shaft assembly using the
bearing’s outer race. Do not use the shaft to press
the assembly into the housing, as bearing
damage may result. Install retaining ring.
Press Bearing/Shaft
assembly using outer
race only
36. Press gear onto shaft while supporting the
housing.
ENGINE
3.46
CRANKCASE DISASSEMBLY CONT’D
37. Remove thrust plate (U).
U
38. Remove PTO end engine mount. Remove
crankcase bolts. Tap on the reinforced areas on
the cases using soft hammer. Carefully separate
the two crankcase halves.
Separate the
crankcase
halves
NOTE: Only remove the oil baffle if the baffle is
damaged. When removing the oil baffle bolts, use a
heat gun to heat the bolts and loosen the Loctitet.
This will prevent any possible damage to the bolts or
to the crankcase casting.
39. Remove and clean oil pick up (V) and oil baffle
weldment (W).
V
W
40. Remove balance shaft and crankshaft.
41. Remove and inspect crankshaft main journal
bearings for abnormal wear. It is recommended
to replace the bearings anytime the engine is
disassembled.
ENGINE
3.47
CAMSHAFT INSPECTION
1. Thoroughly clean the cam shaft.
2. Visually inspect each cam lobe for wear, chafing
or damage.
Lobe height
3. Measure height of each cam lobe using a
micrometer. Compare to specifications.
Cam Lobe Height (Intake & Exhaust):
Std: 1.3334”
(33.8674 mm)
4. Measure camshaft journal outside diameters
(O.D.)
Journal O.D.’s
A
B
C
Camshaft Journal O.D. :
A. (Mag): 1.654” ±.00039” (42 ±.010 mm)
B. (Ctr.): 1.634” ±.00039” (41.50 ±.010 mm)
C. (PTO): 1.614” ±.00039” (41 ±.010 mm)
5. Measure ID of camshaft journal bores.
Camshaft Journal Bore I.D.:
(Mag): 1.656” ±0.00039” (42.07 ±0.010 mm)
(Ctr.) 1.637” ±0.00039” (41.58 ±0.010 mm)
(PTO) 1.617” ±0.00039” (41.07 ±0.010 mm)
6. Calculate oil clearance by subtracting journal
O.D.’s from journal bore I.D.’s. Compare to
specifications.
Camshaft Oil Clearance:
Std: 0.0027” (.070mm)
Limit: .0039” (.10 mm)
NOTE: Replace camshaft if damaged or if any part
is worn past the service limit.
NOTE: Replace engine block if camshaft journal
bores are damaged or worn excessively.
ENGINE CRANKCASE
REASSEMBLY
WARNING: After any reassembly or
rebuild, the engine must be primed using
the Oil Priming Adapter (PU--45778) and
a 3/4--full oil filter before initial start--up.
Follow Steps 45--46 in this section to
properly prime the engine and to help aid
proper engine break in.
NOTE: Before assembly, clean the bolts and bolt
holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any
debris. This will ensure proper sealing when installing
bolts.
ENGINE
3.48
1. Install oil pick up (A), if removed. Torque bolt to 60
±6in.lbs.(6.8±0.68 Nm).
A
B
2. Install oil baffle weldment (B). Torque bolts to 60 ±
6in.lbs.(6.8±0.68 Nm).
Oil Baffle Weldment & Oil Pick Up-
Bolt Torque:
60 ±6 in. lbs. (6.8-0.68 Nm)
3. Install the balance shaft. Inspect balance shaft
clearance (C) in both gearcase halves. Rotate
balance shaft to ensure that there is clearance
between it and oil baffle weldment.
NOTE: Always install new balance shaft bearings.
C
4. Apply Moly Lube Grease to cam journals and
balance shaft bearing surfaces of the MAG case
halve. Install cam and balance shafts.
5. Install crankshaft assembly and apply engine oil
to crank pins and rods (D). Apply Moly Lube
Grease to the main journals and bearings.
D
6. Apply Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557)tothe
top gearcase halve.
E
NOTE: Do not apply sealant to cam relief hole (E).
ENGINE
3.49
7. Assemble the crankcase halves. Apply LocTitet
242 (PN 2871949)to the threads and pipe sealant
to the bolt flanges. Torque bolts to 22 ±2 ft. lbs.
(30 ±3 Nm) following torque pattern on Page
3.11.
Crankcase Bolt Torque:
22 ±2 ft. lbs. (30 ±3Nm)
*Torque in Proper Sequence (Pg. 311)
8. Lubricate cam lobes and valve lifters with Moly
Lube Grease.
Moly--lube Cam Lobes
Moly--lube Lifters
9. Lubricate lifters with engine oil and install in the
original order as removed in disassembly. Apply
Lubriplate or Moly Lube to the ends of the lifters.
NOTE: Always replace the camshaft and lifters
as a set.
10. Lubricate connecting rods with 0W--40 engine oil.
11. Install new cylinder gasket on crankcase. Align
gasket on the dowel pins for proper gasket
alignment.
NOTE: Gasket must be installed dry. Do not use
sealers or lubricants to hold in place during
installation.
12. Orientate the piston rings on the piston before
installation into the cylinders. Set the gaps of the
rings every 120°(see illustration).
1
2
3
SECOND RING
OIL RING
TOP RING
1. 2.
3.
Piston
Ring
Orientation
ENGINE
3.50
13. Install piston assemblies into cylinder aligning the
piston pin holes, to ensure proper alignment of the
pistons to the connecting rods upon assembly.
Partially install the piston pins into the pistons.
Cylinder Installation
NOTE: To help align the pistons, slide a rod that is
close to the same diameter as the wrist pin holes to
properly align them in the cylinder.
14. Position cylinder and piston assemblies onto the
connecting rods and push the piston pins through
the piston and connecting rods.
Push in Piston Pins
15. Install the piston pin keepers (F). The pin keeper
ends should be installed at the 12 O’clock
position.
Place Pin Keeper (F)
in 12 O’clock position
NOTE: While installing in piston pins, cover all
engine passages. The clip could fall into the engine
during installation.
F
16. Install camshaft thrust plate (G) with new bolts.
Torque bolts to 115 ±12 in.lbs. (13 ±1.35 Nm).
NOTE: New bolts have patch lock on the threads and
do not require Loctitet.
G
17. Assemble rotors as marked when disassembled.
Use a cleaner to remove the marks previously
made on the rotors.
ENGINE
3.51
Line Up Marks
18. Apply moly lube, lubriplate, or oil to the rotors on
the oil pump shaft.
NOTE: The application of oil or lubriplate aids in
priming the oil pump during initial engine start up.
Lubricate Rotors
19. Align the bolt holes and install oil pump assembly
into crankcase. Rotate the rotors in the housing
during installation, as this checks for binding if new
rotors are used.
NOTE: For assembly of the gears, the cam gear and
the crankshaft gear are stamped with “This Side Out.”
This indicates the side of the gear that faces outward
or away from the case.
This Side Out
NOTE: Before assembly, clean the bolts and bolt
holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any
debris. This will ensure proper sealing when installing
bolts and new Loctitet.
20. Install oil pump housing bolts (H). The new bolts
contain patch lock, so Loctitetis not needed on
the new bolts. Torque bolts to 84 ±8 in.lbs. (9.50 ±
0.90 Nm) and follow the torque sequence on Pg.
3.3.
NOTE: Occasionally spin the oil pump when
installing bolts to check for binding of the rotors.
H
Oil Pump Bolt Torque:
84 ±8 in.lbs. (9.50 ±0.90 Nm)
*Torque in Proper Sequence (Pg. 3.3)
21. Apply Loctitet242 (PN 2871949)tothe
crankshaft.
22. Before installing the crankshaft gear (I), heat the
crankshaft gear to 250°F (121°C) on a hot plate
ENGINE
3.52
(J).
IJ
CAUTION:
The crankshaft gear is extremely hot! Severe
burns or injury can occur if the gear is not
handled with extreme care and caution. Follow
the procedure below to help ensure safety.
23. Use extreme caution when removing the
crankshaft gear from the hot plate. Use a pair of
pliers and leather gloves when handling the
crankshaft gear.
24. Install the crankshaft gear (I) onto the crankshaft.
NOTE: For assembly of the gears, the cam gear and
the crankshaft gear are stamped with “This Side Out.”
This indicates the side of the gear that faces outward
or away from the
case.
I
This Side Out
25. Install counter balance shaft gear (J) with new
key, aligning timing marks with crankshaft gear
(I). Install washer and bolt. Use the Gear Holder
(PU--45838). Torque to 22 ±2 ft. lbs.(30 ±3 Nm).
I
PU--45838
J
Balance Shaft Gear Bolt Torque:
22 ±2 ft.lbs. (30 ±3Nm)
26. Use the Cam Gear Alignment Tool (PU--45497--2)
to align the teeth of the cam gear (M). Install the
cam gear (M) (with the Cam Gear Alignment Tool
still in place) onto the camshaft. The timing marks
on the camshaft gear should align with the
keyway on the balance shaft gear.
PU--45497--2
M
NOTE: If the timing mark on the camshaft gear does
not align properly, remove the camshaft gear and tool.
Use the Cam Spanner Wrench (PU--45498) to rotate
the cam to the proper position.
NOTE: Cam Spanner Wrench (PU--45498) is only
needed to rotate the camshaft when the entire valve
train is assembled.
ENGINE
3.53
PU--45498
27. Reinstall the camshaft gear; so the timing marks
are properly aligned. Install the washer and bolt.
Torque to 22 ±2 ft. lbs.(30 ±3 Nm).
NOTE: Be sure all of the timing marks are properly
aligned.
Timing Marks K
MN
Water Pump Gear
Timing Marks
Timing Marks
Counterbalance Gear and Camshaft
Gear Bolt Torque:
22 ±2 ft. lbs. (30 ±3Nm)
GEAR/STATOR HOUSING SEAL REPLACEMENT
IMPORTANT: Due to seal design and
construction, these seals MUST be installed dry
(no lubricant) during assembly. Use of lubricants
(oil, soapy water, etc.) will not allow the seal to
wear--in and seal properly. Do not touch seal
surface or allow seal surface to come in contact
with contaminates during installation.
Thoroughly clean parts, tools and hands before
installation.
28. Before installing the gear/stator housing, replace
the seals in the cover. Install a new water pump
seal (N) into the gear/stator housing (O). Use the
Water Pump Mechanical Seal Installer
(PA--44995) to properly install the seal to the
correct depth in the cover.
ENGINE
3.54
PA--44995 O
N
NOTE: To remove the water pump seal, the
gear/stator housing must be removed. The water
pump seal cannot be removed or installed with the
gear/stator housing attached to the engine. Shaft
damage will occur.
NOTE: Install the waterpump seal (N) with the seal
lip facing out (towards the crankcase). Use of a
hydraulic press is recommended for this procedure.
29. Install a new crankshaft seal (P) into the
gear/stator housing cover (O). Use the Universal
Driver Handle (PU--45543) and the Main Seal
Installer (PU--45483) to seat the crankshaft seal
into place.
PU--45483
P
O
PU--45543
NOTE: Install the crankshaft seal (P) with the seal lip
facing out (towards the crankcase).
Seal lip goes towards the crankcase.
P
30. Once the crankshaft seal is installed into the gear/
stator housing cover, set the direction of the paper
lip by sliding the Main Crankshaft Seal Saver
(PA--45658) into the crankshaft seal from the
rubber lipped side to the paper lip side.(Back to
Front) Remove the tool.
PA--45658
Important: Set
the direction of
the paper seal lip
31. Carefully install the tapered end of the
Crankshaft Seal Protection Tool (PA--45658)
through the paper side of the crankshaft seal.
(Back to Front) Leave the seal protector installed
in the crankshaft seal. Check the crankshaft seal
lips to verify they have not been rolled or
damaged.
ENGINE
3.55
(PA--45658)
32. Before installing the gear/stator housing cover,
install the Water Pump Seal Saver (PA--45401)
onto the water pump shaft.
PA--45401
33. Install the new gasket to the gear/stator housing
cover and crankcase. With the tools installed,
carefully place the gear/stator housing cover over
the protection tools. NOTE: New gasket is not
shown in the picture.
34. Apply Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557)tothe
outside edges of the crankcase halves (See
arrows), where the crankcases mate. (See
photos below.) This helps to prevent coolant
leakage.
35. Install the gear/stator housing gasket onto he
crankcase.
Gear/Stator
Housing Gasket
36. Secure the gear/stator housing cover (O) to the
crankcase with the cover bolts. Torque bolts to 96
±12 in.lbs. (10.85 ±0.35 Nm) in proper tightening
sequence (see Pg. 3.3). Remove seal protectors
from the shaft ends once secure.
ENGINE
3.56
(PA--45401)
(PA--45658) O
Gear/Stator Housing Bolt Torque:
96 ±12 in. lbs. (10.85 ±0.35 Nm)
*Torque in Proper Sequence (Pg. 3.3)
NOTE: Before assembly, clean the bolts and bolt
holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any
debris. This will ensure proper sealing when installing
bolts.
37. Install shaft seal with ceramic surface facing
inward.
38. Install water pump impeller (P). Secure the
impeller with the washer and a new nylok nut
(Q).Torque the nut to specification.
P
Q
Water Pump Impeller Nut Torque:
108 ±12in.lbs.(6.8±0.68 Nm)
39. Install water pump cover (R) with new O-ring seal.
Torque bolts to specification in proper sequence
(See Pg. 3.4).
R
Install Dry
Do not use lubricants or
sealants on O--ring Seal
96 ±12 in. lbs. (10.85-1.35 Nm)
Water Pump Housing Bolt Torque:
96 ±12 in. lbs. (10.85-1.35 Nm)
*Torque Bolts in Proper Sequence (Pg. 3.4)
ENGINE
3.57
40. Sparingly apply Starter Drive Grease (PN
2871423) to the starter drive. Install the starter
bendix.
NOTE: There are thrust washers on both sides of
starter drive.
41. Install stator assembly (S) and bolts. Torque bolts
to 96 ±12 in.lbs. (10.85 ±0.35 Nm).
42. Install the the wire hold down bracket (T). Install
two new wire hold down bolts. New bolts contain
patch--lock. Torque bolts to 96 ±12 in.lbs. (10.85
±0.35 Nm) and follow the proper bolt torque
sequence on Pg. 3.3). Coat the stator wire
grommet (U) with NyogeltGrease (PN
2871329).
NOTE: Be sure the stator wires are routed properly
under the wire hold down bracket.
T
Replace 2 bolts with new bolts
US
Stator Assembly Bolt Torque:
96 ±12 in.lbs. (10.85 ±0.35 Nm)
43. Install the flywheel, washer, nut, and key. Torque
flywheel nut to 65 ±7 ft. lbs. (88 ±9.50 Nm).
65 ±7 ft. lbs.
(88 ±9.50 Nm)
Flywheel Nut Torque:
65 ±7 ft. lbs. (88 ±9.50 Nm)
44. Install stator housing with new O-rings. Torque the
bolts to 96 ±12 in.lbs. (10.85 ±0.35 Nm) and follow
proper bolt torque sequence Pg. 3.4.
96 ±12 in. lbs.
(10.85 ±0.35 Nm)
Stator Housing Bolt Torque:
96 ±12 in. lbs. (10.85 ±0.35 Nm)
*Torque in Proper Sequence (Pg. 3.4)
ENGINE
3.58
45. After the engine is completely assembled and
ready for installation, the engine must be properly
primed with Polaris 0W--40 Synthetic Oil (PN
2871281). Fill the oil filter three--quarters full with
Polaris 0W--40 Synthetic Oil (PN 2871281). Let
the oil soak into the filter for 8--10 minutes. Install
the filter onto the engine.
Fill 3/4 full with 0W--40 oil
46. Remove primer plug from the engine. Install the
Oil System Priming Adapter (PU--45778) into the
oil plug hole. Push 3--5 oz. (approx.) of Polaris
0W--40 into the adapter until resistance is felt.
Remove the adapter. Apply pipe dope or Teflon
tape to the plug threads. Install the plug and
torque to 216 ±24 in.lbs. (24.4 ±2.71 Nm).
PU--45778
Oil System Priming Adapter:
(PU--45778)
WARNING: After any reassembly or
rebuild, the engine must be primed using
the Oil Priming Adapter (PU--45778) and
a 3/4--full oil filter before initial start--up.
Follow the steps in this section to
properly prime the engine and aid proper
engine break in. Failure to perform this
procedure may cause internal engine
damage on initial start--up.
ENGINE
3.59
TROUBLESHOOTING
Spark Plug Fouling
SSpark plug cap loose or faulty
SIncorrect spark plug heat range or
gap
SPVT system calibrated incorrectly/
components worn or mis-adjusted
SFuel quality poor (old) or octane too
high
SLow compression
SRestricted exhaust
SWeak ignition (loose coil ground,
faulty coil, stator, or ETC switch)
SETC switch mis-adjusted
SRestricted air filter (main or
pre-cleaner) or breather system
SImproperly assembled air intake
system
SRestricted engine breather system
SOil contaminated with fuel
Engine Turns Over But Fails to Start
SNo fuel
SDirt in fuel line or filter
SFuel will not pass through fuel valve
SFuel pump inoperative/restricted
STank vent plugged or pinched
SEngine flooded
SLow compression (high cylinder
leakage)
SNo spark (Spark plug fouled)
ignition component failure
Engine Does Not Turn Over
SDead battery
SStarter motor does not turn
SEngine seized, rusted, or
mechanical failure
Engine Runs But Will Not Idle
SRestricted carburetor pilot system
SLow compression
SCrankcase breather restricted
Engine Idles But Will Not Rev Up
SSpark plug fouled/weak spark
SBroken throttle cable
SObstruction in air intake
SAir box removed (reinstall all intake
components)
SIncorrect or restricted carburetor
jetting
SETC switch limiting speed
SReverse speed limiter limiting
speed
SIncorrect ignition timing
SRestricted exhaust system
SCam worn excessively
Engine Has Low Power
SSpark plug fouled
SCylinder, piston, ring, or valve wear
or damage (check compression)
SPVT not operating properly
SRestricted exhaust muffler
SCam worn excessively
ENGINE
3.60
TROUBLESHOOTING, CONT
Piston Failure - Scoring
SLack of lubrication
SDirt entering engine through cracks
in air filter or ducts
SEngine oil dirty or contaminated
Excessive Smoke and Carbon Buildup
SExcessive piston-to-cylinder
clearance
SWet sumping
SWorn rings, piston, or cylinder
SWorn valve guides or seals
SRestricted breather
SAir filter dirty or contaminated
Low Compression
SCylinder head gasket leak
SNo valve clearance ( cam wear )
SCylinder or piston worn
SPiston rings worn, leaking, broken,
or sticking
SBent valve or stuck valve
SValvespringbrokenorweak
SValve not seating properly (bent or
carbon accumulated on sealing
surface)
SRocker arm sticking
Backfiring
SETC or speed limiter system
malfunction
SFouled spark plug or incorrect plug
or plug gap
SExhaust system air leaks
SIgnition system faulty:
Spark plug cap cracked/broken
Ignition coil faulty
Ignition or kill switch circuit faulty
Ignition timing incorrect
Sheared flywheel key
SPoor connections in ignition system
SValve sticking
SAir leaks in intake
SLean condition
COOLING SYSTEM
TROUBLESHOOTING
Overheating
SLow coolant level
SAir in cooling system
SWrong type/mix of coolant
SFaulty pressure cap or system
leaks
SRestricted system (mud or debris in
radiator fins causing restriction to
air flow, passages blocked in
radiator, lines, pump, or water
jacket, accident damage)
SLean mixture (restricted jets, vents,
fuel pump or fuel valve)
SFuel pump output weak
SElectrical malfunction
SWater pump failure/ Loose impeller
SThermistor failure
SCooling fan inoperative or turning
too slowly (perform current draw
test)
SIgnition timing misadjusted
SLow oil level
SSpark plug incorrect heat range
SFaulty hot light circuit
SThermostat stuck closed or not
opening completely
Temperature Too Low
SThermostat stuck open
Leak at Water Pump Weep Hole
SFaulty water pump mechanical seal
(coolant leak)
SFaulty pump shaft oil seal (oil leak)
ENGINE
3.61
BLEEDING PROCEDURE FOR 4--STROKE COOLING SYSTEMS
Use this procedure when a unit overheats and no appar-
ent leaks in the cooling system are found.
Note: If the coolant level is LOW in the radiator, or if there
are leaks in the system, the coolant system will not draw
coolant from the reservoir tank.
1. Park Machine on a flat surface. Remove radiator cap and
top off coolant. Leave the cap off of the radiator. Start and idle
machine for 5-10 minutes until steam is visible in the radiator
cap area.
2. Stop the engine and let cool for a few minutes or until a
“glug” is seen at the filler neck or there is a dropping of the
coolant level, indicating that coolant has been pulled into the
system.
Important Tips: Slowly squeezing the hose after the bend
below the filler neck will aid in purging the system of air.
Pump the hose using your hand several times as shown in
the diagram. Elevating the rear of the ATV with a floor jack
(rear tires 4-6, off the ground) also aids the purging of air from
the system.
3. Always add coolant to the radiator first, filling to the top of
the neck to replace air that has been purged from the system.
Fill the reservoir only after you have completely filled the cool-
ing system at the radiator filler neck.
4. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 four or five times or until no more
coolant is pulled into the system.
5. In some instances, Steps 1 and 2 may have to be per-
formed with the radiator cap on to prevent coolant loss.
6. To test, install the radiator cap and idle machine until fan
comes on. Make sure the fan comes on before the hot light.
Remote Filler Cooling System
Temperature Sensor
Polaris Premium Antifreeze
2871534 Quart
2871323 Gallon
Pump hose by
hand to help
purge system
Squeeze Hose
Here to Help
Purge Air From
System
ENGINE
3.62
NOTES
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.1
Special Tools 4.2............................
Service Notes 4.3............................
EFI System Exploded View 4.4--4.5................
Fuel Tank Exploded View 4.6..................
Electronic Fuel Injection System 4.7...........
Operation Overview 4.7.............
Initial Start/Priming Procedure 4.7......
Electronic Control Unit 4.8...................
Service 4.8......................
Replacement 4.8..................
Fuel Pump/Tank Assembly 4.9................
Test 4.9-4.10.........................
Replacement 4.10--4.11..................
Fuel Pressure Regulator 4.11..................
Test 4.11.........................
Replacement 4.11..................
Fuel Filters 4.11..............................
Service 4.11......................
Replacement 4.12..................
Fuel Injectors 4.12............................
Service 4.13......................
Replacement 4.13..................
Crankshaft Position Sensor 4.13................
Test 4.13.........................
Replacement 4.13..................
Temperature / Barometric Air Pressure Sensor 4.14
Test (Refer to Diagnostic Software) 4.14.......
Replacement 4.14..................
Throttle Position Sensor 4.14...................
Test 4.14.........................
Replacement 4.15..................
TPS Initialization 4.15-4.16................
Engine Temperature Sensor 4.16...............
Test (Refer to Diagnostic Software) 4.16.......
Replacement 4.16..................
Diagnostics using “Blink Codes” 4.17............
Troubleshooting 4.18..........................
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.2
SPECIAL TOOLS
PART NUMBER TOOL
DESCRIPTION
PU--47063 Polaris EFI
Diagnostic
Software
PU--43506 Fuel Pressure
Test Kit
PU--47082 Throttle Position
Sensor Tester
Fuel Pressure Sender -- PU--43506
IMPORTANT: The EFI fuel system remains under
high pressure, even when the engine is not running.
Before attempting to service any part of the fuel
system, the pressure must be relieved. The pressure
adapter has an integrated relief valve. Connect to the
test valve and release the pressure.
PU--43506
Fuel Pressure Tester
Test Valve
Polaris EFI Diagnostic Software -- PU--47063
This dealer--only software installs on laptop computers
equipped with a CD drive and serial port connection,
and is designed to replace multiple shop tools often
used to test EFI components. It also includes
step--by--step diagnostic procedures to aid technician
repair and troubleshooting.
Throttle Position Sensor Tester -- PU--47082
This tester allows the use of a digital multi--meter to
test TPS function as well perform initialization
procedures.
WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under
certain conditions.
EFI components are under high pressure.
Verify system pressure has been relieved
before disassembly.
Never drain the fuel system when the
engine is hot. Severe burns may result.
Do not overfill the tank. The tank is at
full capacity when the fuel reaches the
bottom of the filler neck. Leave room
for expansion of fuel.
Never start the engine or let it run in an
enclosed area. Gasoline powered engine
exhaust fumes are poisonous and can
cause loss of consciousness and death in
a short time.
Do not smoke or allow open flames or
sparks in or near the area where refueling
is performed or where gasoline is stored.
If you get gasoline in your eyes or if you
should swallow gasoline, seek medical
attention immediately.
If you spill gasoline on your skin or clothing,
immediately wash with soap and water and
change clothing.
Always stop the engine and refuel
outdoors or in a well ventilated area.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.3
Service Notes:
GFor more convenient and
accurate testing of EFI
components, it is recommended
dealers utilize the Polaris
Diagnostic Software (dealer only),
or testing may be done manually
using the procedures provided.
G80% of all EFI problems are
caused by wiring harness
connections.
GFor the purpose of troubleshooting
difficult running issues, a known--good
ECU from another Polaris ATV EFI
may be used without damaging
system or engine components.
GAlways depressurize the fuel system
through the fuel rail test valve before
disconnecting or servicing any EFl
system components.
GNever attempt to service any fuel
system component while engine is
running or ignition switch is ”on.”
GCleanliness is essential and must be
maintained at all times when
servicing or working on the EFI
system. Dirt, even in small
quantities, can cause significant
problems.
GDo not use compressed air if the
system is open. Cover any parts
removed and wrap any open joints
with plastic if they will remain open
for any length of time. New parts
should be removed from their
protective packaging just prior to
installation.
GClean any connector before opening
to prevent dirt from entering the
system.
GAlthough every precaution has been
taken to prevent water intrusion
failure, avoid direct water or spray
contact with system components.
GDo not disconnect or reconnect the
wiring harness connector to the
control unit or any individual
components with the ignition ”on.”
This can send a damaging voltage
spike through the ECU
GDo not allow the battery cables to
touch opposing terminals. When
connecting battery cables attach the
positive (+) cable to positive (+)
battery terminal first, followed by
negative (--) cable to negative (--)
battery terminal.
GNever start the engine when the
cables are loose or poorly connected
to the battery terminals.
GNever disconnect battery while
engine is running.
GNever use a quick--start battery
charger to start the engine.
GDo not charge battery with key switch
”on.”
GAlways disconnect negative (--)
battery cable lead before charging
battery.
GAlways unplug ECU from the wire
harness before performing any
welding on the ATV.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.4
EFI SYSTEM EXPLODED VIEW
1
2
3
4
5*
6
7
8
9
10
11
1. Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
2. Intake Air Temperature and Barometric Air Pressure Sensor (T--BAP)
3. Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS)
4. Fuel Injectors
5. Fuel Filter(s)
6. Fuel Pump / Regulator / Gauge Sender Assembly (located in tank as an assembly)
7. Fuel Rail ( 800 EFI utilizes quick connect couplings)
8. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
9. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
10. Throttle Body
11. Wire Harness ( Integrated into main harness assembly)
*800 EFI Fuel Filter
(w/ quick connect lines)
*800 EFI Fuel Rail
(w/ quick connect line)
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.5
EFI SYSTEM COMPONENT LOCATIONS
1. Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
2. Intake Air Temperature and Barometric Air Pressure Sensor (T--BAP)
3. Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS)
4. Fuel Injectors
5. 2 Fuel Filters (1 located in tank, 1 under front cab cover not pictured)
6. Fuel Pump / Regulator / Gauge Sender Assembly (located In tank as an assembly)
7. Fuel Rail
8. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
9. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
10. Throttle Body
11. Wire Harness Assembly
3.
2
3
4&7
9&10
8
Left Side of ATV (Side Panel Removed)
1
Right Side of ATV (Side Panel Removed) Front of ATV (Front Rack & Panel Removed)
700 EFI Shown
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.6
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY
E2003 Polaris Sales Inc.
Tank Vent
Fuel Pump/Tank Assembly
Frame
Protective Foil
Cap
Rear Tank Mount
Front of ATV
Fuel Tank
External Fuel
Filter -- 10 Micron
Fuel Filter
(30 Micron)
Fuel Pump / Pressure Regulator
Unit
Injectors
Fuel Tank Vent
L
LLocated in Fuel Tank
FUEL FLOW
Fuel Supply Rail
L
Excess Fuel
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.7
ELECTRONIC FUEL
INJECTION SYSTEM
OVERVIEW
General
The Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system is a
complete engine fuel and ignition management
design. This system includes the following principal
components:
GFuel Pump
GFuel Rail
GFuel Line(s)
GFuel Filter(s)
GFuel Injectors
GPressure Regulator
GThrottle Body / lntake Manifold
GEngine Control Unit (ECU)
GIgnition Coils
GCoolant Temperature Sensor
GThrottle Position Sensor (TPS)
GCrankshaft Position Sensor (CPS)
GIntake Air Temperature and
Barometric Air Pressure Sensor
(T--BAP)
GWire Harness Assembly
GCheck Engine Light (MIL)
EFI OPERATION OVERVIEW
The EFI system is designed to provide peak engine
performance with optimum fuel efficiency and lowest
possible emissions. The ignition and injection
functions are electronically controlled, monitored and
continually corrected during operation to maintain
peak performance.
The central component of the system is the Boscht
Engine Control Unit (ECU) which manages system
operation, determining the best combination of fuel
mixture and ignition timing for the current operating
conditions.
An in--tank electric fuel pump is used to move fuel
from the tank through the fuel line and in--line fuel filter.
The in--tank fuel pressure regulator maintains a
system operating pressure of 39 psi and returns any
excess fuel to the tank. At the engine, fuel is fed
through the fuel rail and into the injectors, which inject
into the intake ports. The ECU controls the amount of
fuel by varying the length of time that the injectors are
”on.” This can range from 1.5--8.0 milliseconds
depending on fuel requirements. The controlled
injection of the fuel occurs each crankshaft revolution,
or twice for each 4--stroke cycle. One--half the total
amount of fuel needed for one firing of a cylinder is
injected during each injection. When the intake valve
opens, the fuel/air mixture is drawn into the
combustion chamber, ignited. and burned.
The ECU controls the amount of fuel being injected
and the ignition timing by monitoring the primary
sensor signals for air temperature, barometric air
pressure, engine temperature, speed (RPM), and
throttle position (load). These primary signals are
compared to the programming in the ECU computer
chip, and the ECU adjusts the fuel delivery and
ignition timing to match the values.
During operation the ECU has the ability to re--adjust
temporarily, providing compensation for changes in
overall engine condition and operating environment,
so it will be able to maintain the ideal air/fuel ratio.
During certain operating periods such as cold starts,
warm up, acceleration, etc., a richer air/fuel ratio is
automatically calculated by the ECU.
INITIAL STARTING/PRIMING PROCEDURE
NOTE: The Injection system must be purged of all air
prior to the initial start up, and/or any time the system
has been disassembled.
If the EFI system is completely empty of fuel or has
been disassembled and repaired:
1. Cycle the key switch from “OFF” to “ON” 6 times,
waiting for approximately 3 seconds at each “ON”
cycle to allow the fuel pump to cycle and shut
down.
2. Once step 1 is completed, turn the key switch to
“START” until the engine starts or 5 seconds
seconds has passed.
3. If the engine failed to start, repeat step 1 for 2
more cycles and attempt to start the engine.
If the engine fails to start, a problem may still exist, and
should be diagnosed.
NOTE: Accurate testing of EFI components is
recommended utilizing the Polaris Diagnostic
Software (dealer only).
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.8
ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT
(ECU)
The ECU is the brain or central processing computer
of the entire EFI fuel/ignition management system.
During operation, sensors continuously gather data
which is relayed through the wiring harness to input
circuits within the ECU. Signals to the ECU include:
ignition (on/off), crankshaft position and speed
(RPM), throttle position, engine coolant temperature,
air temperature, intake manifold air pressure and
battery voltage. The ECU compares the input signals
to the programmed maps in its memory and
determines the appropriate fuel and spark
requirements for the immediate operating conditions.
The ECU then sends output signals to set the injector
duration and ignition timing.
700 EFI Shown
During operation, the ECU continually performs a
diagnostic check of itself, each of the sensors, and
system performance. If a fault is detected, the ECU
turns on the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) (Check
Engine Light) on the speedometer and stores the fault
code in its fault memory. Depending on the
significance or severity of the fault, normal operation
may continue, or ”Fail--Safe” operation (slowed
speed, richer running) may be initiated. A technician
can access the stored fault code using a ”blink code”
diagnosis flashed out through the Instrument cluster.
The ECU requires a minimum of 7.0 volts to operate.
The memory in the ECU is operational the moment
the battery cables are connected.
To prevent engine over--speed and possible failure, a
rev--limiting feature is programmed into the ECU. If
the maximum RPM limit (6500) is exceeded, the ECU
suppresses the injection signals, cutting off the fuel
flow. This process repeats it self in rapid succession,
limiting operation to the preset maximum.
Sportsman 700 / 800 EFI Rpm Limit:
Hard limit -- Injector Suppression occurs
High: 6500
Low: 6500
Neutral: 6500
Reverse: 6500
Park: 6500
Soft limit -- Timing Suppression occurs
High: None
Low: 6300
Neutral: 6300
Reverse: 6300
Park: 6300
ECU SERVICE
Never attempt to disassemble the ECU. It is sealed to
prevent damage to internal components. Warranty is
void if the case is opened or tampered with in any way.
All operating and control functions within the ECU are
pre--set. No internal servicing or readjustment may be
performed. If a problem is encountered, and you
determine the ECU to be faulty, contact the Polaris
Service Department for specific handling instructions.
Do not replace the ECU without factory authorization.
The relationship between the ECU and the throttle
position sensor (TPS) is very critical to proper system
operation. If the TPS is faulty, or the mounting position
of the TPS is altered, the TPS must be re--initialized.
For the purpose of troubleshooting, a known--good
ECU from another Polaris ATV EFI may be used
without system or engine component damage.
ECU REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the 2 retaining screws holding the ECU.
2. With the Ignition turned off, disconnect the wire
harness from the ECU.
3. To install, reverse the procedures, reapply a small
amount of dielectric grease to the connector if
desired. Tighten screws to 10 in. lbs (1.1 Nm).
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.9
FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY
NOTE: 800 EFI fuel connections are quick--connect
couplings vs 700 EFI connections.
An electric fuel pump assembly is used to transfer fuel
to the EFI system from inside the fuel tank. This
assembly includes the fuel pump, regulator and fuel
gauge sender. The pump is rated for a minimum
output of 25 liters per hour at 39 psi and has a
non--serviceable internal 30--micron filter. In addition,
the pump has a replaceable 10--micron filter attached
to the pump outlet, which is located under the strut
mount.
Fuel Pump
Regulator
Fuel Gauge
Sender
Internal
30 Micron Strainer
(Bottom)
Fuel pump is not replaceable.
Picture is for reference only.
700 EFI Shown
When the key switch is turned to ”ON”, the ECU
activates the fuel pump, which pressurizes the
system for start--up.
The ECU switches off the pump preventing the
continued delivery of fuel in these instances:
GIf the key switch is not promptly
turned to the ”start” position
Gif the engine fails to start, or
Gif the engine is stopped with the key
switch ”on” (as in the case of an
accident),
In these situations, the “check engine” light will go on,
but will turn off after 4 cranking revolutions if system
function is OK. Once the engine is running, the fuel
pump remains on.
NOTE: FUEL GAUGE SENDER TEST -- To test fuel
gauge sender function, refer to Chapter 10 in this
service manual.
FUEL PUMP TEST
The fuel pump/tank assembly is non--serviceable and
must be replaced if determined to be faulty. If a fuel
delivery problem is suspected, make certain the filters
are not plugged, that the pump is being activated
through the ECU, all electrical connections are
properly secured, the fuses are good, and a minimum
of 7.0 volts is being supplied. If during starting the
battery voltage drops below 7.0 volts, a reduction of
fuel pressure may occur resulting in a lean starting
condition. If required, testing of the fuel pump and
circuitry may be conducted.
CAUTION:
Check the fuel test valve for any possible fuel
seepage after performing any tests or
procedures. Fuel is extremely flammable and
may cause severe burns, injury, or death. Do not
use any device that produces a flame or electrical
devices that may spark around fuel or fuel vapors.
700 EFI Shown
1. Remove the fuel test valve cap. Connect the
pressure hose of the Polaris pressure tester (PN
PU--43506) to the test valve on the fuel rail. Route
the clear hose into a portable gasoline container
or the equipment fuel tank.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.10
2. Turn on the key switch to activate the pump and
check the system pressure on the gauge. If
system pressure of 39 psi ±3 is observed, the
ignition switch, ECU, fuel pump, and pressure
regulator are working properly. Turn the key
switch off and depress the valve button on the
tester to relieve the system pressure.
GIf the pressure is too high or too low,
replace the fuel pump assembly.
3. If the pump did not activate (step 2), disconnect
the plug from the fuel pump. Connect a DC
voltmeter across terminals ’A’ and ’C’ in the plug,
turn on the key switch and observe if a minimum
of 7 volts is present. If voltage is between 7 and
14, turn key switch off and connect an ohmmeter
between the terminals ’A’ and ’C’ on the pump to
check for continuity.
GIf there was no continuity between
the pump terminals, replace the fuel
pump/tank assembly.
GIf the voltage was below 7 Vdc, test the
battery, ignition switch, wiring harness,
Load--shed/Relay, and ECU.
4. If voltage at the plug was good, and there was
continuity across the pump terminals, reconnect
the plug to the pump, making sure you have good,
clean connections. Turn on the key switch and
listen for the pump to activate.
GIf the pump starts, repeat steps 1 and
2 to verify correct pressure.
GIf the pump still does not operate,
check for correct ECU operation by
plugging in a known--good ECU.
GIf the pump still does not operate,
replace the pump/tank assembly.
FUEL PUMP/TANK ASSEMBLY
REPLACEMENT
NOTE: 800 EFI fuel connections are quick--connect
couplings vs 700 EFI connections.
WARNING: Always wear safety goggles when
working with high pressure or flammable fluids.
Failure to do so could result in serious injury or
complications.
NOTE: The fuel pump cannot be replaced as an
individual part, the entire fuel pump and fuel tank is
replaced as an assembly. Refer to your parts book for
the proper part number.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the side panels and front cab assembly.
Refer to “COVER PANEL REMOVAL” in Chapter
5 for details.
3. Remove the gas tank cover vent hose. Be sure to
properly route the vent hose upon reassembly.
Pic 1
4. Remove the clamps on the PVT intake duct and
remove the PVT duct.
5. With all the body panels removed from the front of
the ATV and the gas tank exposed, disconnect
the pump wiring harness.
WARNING: Wear safety goggles while performing
this procedure, failure to do so could result in serious
injuries.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.11
6. Relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel test valve.
Test Valve
7. Loosen the fuel tank hose and pull the fuel line
from the tank. NOTE: A small amount of fuel may
come out of the fuel line or tank. Plug the fuel line
and tank inlet or use a shop towel during removal.
CAUTION:
Check the fuel test valve for any possible fuel
seepage after performing any tests or
procedures. Fuel is extremely flammable and
may cause severe burns, injury, or death. Do not
use any device that produces a flame or electrical
devices that may spark around fuel or fuel vapors.
700 EFI Shown
8. Remove the air box cover and remove the two gas
tank mounting bolts at the rear of the gas tank.
Front of ATV
Remove
2Bolts
9. Carefully pull the fuel tank out of the frame. Keep
the fuel tank horizontal during removal, this will
keep the fuel in the tank from spilling out the top
inlet.
Fuel Pump/Tank Installation
1. Reinstall the pump/tank assembly.
2. Reconnect the sender wiring harness and route
the harness properly. Install the fuel line and
tighten the fuel line clamp.
3. Reinstall the two fuel tank mounting bolts at back
of tank.
4. Reinstall the PVT intake duct, gas tank vent line,
front cab assembly, and side panels.
NOTE: Properly route the gas tank vent line, use tape
tosecuretheventlineinplace.(SeePic1).
5. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Test the
sender for proper operation.
FUEL PRESSURE
REGULATOR
The fuel pressure regulator maintains the required
operating system pressure of 39 psi ±3psi. A
rubber--fiber diaphragm divides the regulator into two
separate sections--, the fuel chamber and the pressure
regulating chamber. The pressure regulating spring
presses against the valve holder (part of the
diaphragm), pressing the valve against the valve seat.
The combination of atmospheric pressure and
regulating spring tension equals the desired operating
pressure. Any time the fuel pressure against the bottom
of the diaphragm exceeds the desired (top) pressure,
the valve opens, relieving the excess pressure,
returning the excess fuel back to the tank.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.12
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR TEST
Refer to the Fuel Pump Test procedure.
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
REPLACEMENT
The regulator is a sealed, non--serviceable assembly.
If it is faulty, the pump assembly must be replaced.
Refer to the Fuel Pump/Tank Assembly Replacement
procedure.
FUEL FILTERS
NOTE: 800 EFI fuel connections are quick--connect
couplings vs 700 EFI connections.
EFI Engines use a non--serviceable, high--volume,
high--pressure, 30--micron internal fuel pump filter
and a replaceable 10--micron, in--line fuel filter.
700 EFI Shown
FUEL FILTER SERVICE
In line filter replacement is recommended every 2
years of operation or more frequently under extremely
dusty, dirty conditions. Use only the specified filter,
and install it according to the directional arrows. DO
NOT use an aftermarket filter, as operating
performance and safety can be affected.
FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
To replace the filter:
1. Relieve system pressure through the test valve in
the fuel rail before servicing.
2. Loosen clamps and slide hose off the filter ends.
3. Install new filter with arrow pointing to the fuel line
connected to the injector rail.
NOTE: When replacing the fuel filter, wet the interior
of the new filter with gasoline before installation to
ensure high pump pressure doesn’t tear the filtering
material.
FUEL INJECTORS
NOTE: 800 EFI fuel connections are quick--connect
couplings vs 700 EFI connections.
The fuel injectors mount into the intake manifold, and
the fuel rail attaches to them at the top end.
Replaceable O--Rings on both ends of the injector
prevent external fuel leakage and also insulate it from
heat and vibration.
Injector
When the key switch is on, the fuel rail is pressurized,
and voltage is present at the injector. At the proper
instant, the ECU completes the ground circuit,
energizing the injector. The valve needle in the
injector is opened electromagnetically, and the
pressure in the fuel rail forces fuel down through the
inside. The ”director plate” at the tip of the injector (see
inset) contains a series of calibrated openings which
directs the fuel into the intake port in a cone--shaped
spray pattern.
The injector is opened and closed once for each
crankshaft revolution, however only one--half the total
amount of fuel needed for one firing is injected during
each opening. The amount of fuel injected is
controlled by the ECU and determined by the length
of time the valve needle is held open, also referred to
as the .’injection duration” or ”pulse width”. It may vary
in length from 1.5--8 milliseconds depending on the
speed and load requirements of the engine.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.13
FUEL INJECTOR SERVICE
Injector problems typically fall into three general
categories-- electrical, dirty/clogged, or leakage. An
electrical problem usually causes one or both of the
injectors to stop functioning. Several methods may be
used to check if the injectors are operating.
GWith the engine running at idle, feel
for operational vibration, indicating
that they are opening and closing.
GWhen temperatures prohibit
touching, listen for a buzzing or
clicking sound with a screwdriver or
mechanic’s stethoscope.
GDisconnect the electrical connector
from an injector and listen for a
change in idle performance (only
running on one cylinder) or a change
in injector noise or vibration.
NOTE: Do not apply voltage directly to the fuel
injector(s). Excessive voltage will burn out the
injector(s). Do not ground the injector(s) with the
ignition “on.” lnjector(s) will open/turn on if relay is
energized.
If an injector is not operating, it can indicate either a
bad injector, or a wiring/electrical connection problem.
Check as follows:
Injector leakage is very unlikely, but in rare instances
it can be internal (past the tip of the valve needle), or
external (weeping around the injector body). The loss
of system pressure from the leakage can cause hot
restart problems and longer start--up times.
Injector problems due to dirt or clogging are unlikely
due to the design of the injectors, the high fuel
pressure, the use of filters and the detergent additives
in the gasoline. Symptoms that could be caused by
dirty/clogged injectors include rough idle,
hesitation/stumble during acceleration, or triggering
of fault codes related to fuel delivery. Injector clogging
is usually caused by a buildup of deposits on the
deflector plate, restricting the flow of fuel and resulting
in a poor spray pattern. Some contributing factors to
injector clogging include; dirty air filters, higher than
normal operating temperatures, short operating
intervals and dirty, incorrect, or poor quality fuel.
Cleaning of clogged injectors is not recommended;
they should be replaced. Additives and higher grades
of fuel can be used as a preventative measure if
clogging has been a problem.
FUEL INJECTOR REPLACEMENT
1. Engine must be cool. Depressurize fuel system
through test valve in fuel rail.
2. Remove the front fender assembly and fuel tank.
3. Thoroughly clean the area around and including
the throttle body/manifold and the injectors.
4. Disconnect the fuel injector harness(s) at the
ECU.
5. Remove the fuel rail mounting screw and carefully
loosen / pull the rail away from the injectors.
6. Reverse the procedures to install the new
injector(s) and reassemble. Use new O--rings any
time an injector is removed (new replacement
injectors include new O--rings). Lubricate O--rings
lightly with oil to aid installation. Torque the fuel rail
mounting screw to 16--20 ft. lbs. (22.6--27 Nm).
CRANKSHAFT POSITION
SENSOR (CPS)
The engine speed sensor is essential to engine
operation, constantly monitoring the rotational speed
(RPM) of the crankshaft.
Crankshaft Position Sensor
A ferromagnetic 60--tooth ring gear with two
consecutive teeth missing is mounted on the flywheel.
The inductive speed sensor is mounted 1.0 ±0.26 mm
(0.059 ±0.010 in.) away from the ring gear. During
rotation, an AC pulse is created within the sensor for
each passing tooth. The ECU calculates engine
speed from the time interval between the consecutive
pulses. The two--tooth gap creates an “interrupt” input
signal, corresponding to specific crankshaft position
for PTO cylinder. This signal serves as a reference for
the control of ignition timing by the ECU.
Synchronization of the CPS and crankshaft position
takes place during the first two revolutions each time
the engine is started. This sensor must be properly
connected at all times. If the sensor fails or becomes
disconnected for any reason, the engine will quit
running.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.14
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR TEST
The crankshaft position sensor is a sealed,
non--serviceable assembly. If fault code diagnosis
indicates a problem within this area, test and correct
as follows:
1. Disconnect main harness connector from ECU.
2. Connect an ohmmeter between the pin terminals.
A resistance value of 560 Ω±10% at room
temperature (20_C, 68_F) should be obtained. If
resistance is correct, check the mounting, air gap,
toothed ring gear (damage, runout, etc.), and
flywheel key.
3. Disconnect speed sensor connector from wiring
harness. (the connector with one heavy black
lead) Viewing the connector with dual aligning
rails on top, test resistance between the
terminals. A reading of 560 Ω±10% should again
be obtained.
NOTE: If the resistance is incorrect, remove the
screw securing the sensor to the mounting bracket
and replace the sensor. If the resistance in step 2 was
incorrect, but the resistance of the sensor alone was
correct, test the main harness circuit between the
sensor connector terminals and the corresponding pin
terminals in the main connector. Correct any
observed problem, reconnect the sensor, and perform
step 2 again.
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect sensor harness connector.
2. Using a 6mm hex wrench, remove the retaining
bolt and replace the sensor, using a light coating
of oil on the o--ring to aid installation.
3. Torque the retaining bolt to 25 in. lbs. (2.8 Nm)
TEMPERATURE and
BAROMETRIC AIR
PRESSURE SENSOR (T--BAP)
Mounted on the throttle body intake, the temperature
and barometric air pressure sensor (T--BAP)
performs two functions in one unit.
Air passing through the intake is measured by the
T--BAP and relayed to the ECU. These signals,
comprised of separate air temperature and
barometric air pressure readings, are processed by
the ECU and compared to it’s programming for
determining the fuel and ignition requirements during
operation.
TEMPERATURE AND BAROMETRIC AIR
PRESSURE SENSOR TEST
The temperature and barometric air pressure sensor
(T--BAP) is a non--serviceable item. If it is faulty, it must
be replaced. This sensor requires a 5 Vdc input to
operate, therefore the T--BAP sensor should only be
tested using the Polaris Diagnostic Software (dealer
only). Refer to the EFI Diagnostic Software Manual for
more information.
TEMPERATURE AND BAROMETRIC AIR
PRESSURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect sensor from engine harness.
2. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the retaining bolt
and replace the sensor, using a light coating of oil
on the o--ring to aid installation.
3. Torque the retaining bolt to 29 in. lbs. (3.3 Nm)
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.15
THROTTLE POSITION
SENSOR (TPS)
The throttle position sensor (TPS) is used to indicate
throttle plate angle to the ECU.
Mounted on the throttle body and operated directly off
the end of the throttle shaft, the TPS works like a
rheostat, varying the voltage signal to the ECU in
direct correlation to the angle of the throttle plate. This
signal is processed by the ECU and compared to the
internal pre--programmed maps to determine the
required fuel and ignition settings for the amount of
engine load.
NOTE: The correct position of the TPS is
established and set at the factory. Do not loosen
the TPS or alter the mounting position. If the TPS
is repositioned, replaced or loosened it must be
recalibrated.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR TEST
The throttle position sensor (TPS) is a non--serviceable
item. If it is faulty, it must be replaced. It can be tested
using the following method:
GSet up the TPS voltage check tool,
PN PU--47082, according to the
instructions. Make sure that the 9 volt
battery has a minimum of 6 volts.
Figure 2.
Figure 2 Red
Pink
Black
No ’Jumps’ in read--out
.70--.99v
Vdc
Black Probe
Red Probe
Tool PN PU--47082
RYBK
GWith the test leads connected and
the meter set, move the throttle open
and closed slowly while reading the
display. The voltage should increase
smoothly with no ’jumps’ or
decreases when the throttle is
applied.
GIf the sensor does not function
correctly, replace it.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
REPLACEMENT
The correct position of theTPS is established and
set at the factory. If the TPS is repositioned,
replaced or loosened it must be recalibrated.
1. Remove the front fender assembly and fuel tank.
2. Disconnect sensor from the harness.
3. Loosen and rotate the throttle body to gain access
to the retaining screw.
4. Remove the retaining screw and replace the
sensor.
5. Refer to “TPS Initialization” for setting the TPS
voltage.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
INITIALIZATION
The correct position of theTPS is established and
set at the factory. Use this procedure only if the
TPS was repositioned, replaced or loosened.
This set procedure can be accomplished with the
throttle body attached to the engine. This
procedure is meant to allow the TPS flow and idle
offset voltage to be correctly set without the use of
a flow bench. No steps can be eliminated.
Step 1
Establishing zero offset voltage: This step is
crucial as it sets the TPS position using a fixed
physical stop. This will insure that the correct offset
voltage is reached once the correct throttle body flow
is set.
Figure 1
Throttle Plate
must be closed
GRemove cover and disconnect
throttle cable from throttle cam.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.16
GWith engine off, back out air flow
screw until it no longer is in contact
with throttle plate cam. The throttle
plate should seal off throttle bore
completely.
Figure 1
Back air flow screw out
until no contact is made
GOpen and close throttle plate a
couple of times to ensure full throttle
closing. Do not snap closed, as this
could cause unnecessary throttle
plate to throttle body interference
and/or damage.
GSet up the TPS voltage check tool
PN PU--47082 according to the
instructions. Verify that the 9 volt
battery has a minimum of 6 volts.
Figure 2.
Figure 2 Red
Pink
Black
Should read
.528v
Vdc
Black Probe
Red Probe
.528
Tool PN PU--47082
RYBK
GUsing a voltmeter attached to tool PN
PU--47082 check the voltage output
of the TPS. It should read .528 ±.01
volts.
GIf it does not read .528 ±.01 volts,
loosen the screw holding the TPS to
the throttle body. Rotate TPS until
voltmeter reads .528 ±.01 volts.
GRetighten TPS mounting screw, and
verify the voltage did not change.
Step 2
Establishing correct flow: Now that the zero offset
voltage has been set, you can now set the throttle
body to the correct air flow value.
GWith voltmeter still attached to tool
PN PU--47082, turn the air flow
adjustment screw until the voltmeter
reads .710 ±.01 volts. The throttle
body is now adjusted to the correct
flow value Figure 3.
Figure 1
Turn air flow screw in
Figure 3 Red
Pink
Black
Should read
Vdc
Black Probe
Red Probe
.710
Tool PN PU--47082
RYBK
.710v
GReconnect the TPS harness lead
GReinstall throttle cable on throttle
cam and install cover. Adjust cable
freeplay.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.17
ENGINE TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
Mounted on the cylinder, the engine temperature
sensor measures coolant temperature. The engine
temperature sensor is a Negative Temperature
Coefficient (NTC) type sensor, as the temperature
increases the resistance decreases.
Engine Temperature Sensor
Refer to Chapter 10 for testing. Standard resistance
readings according to temperature:
Temperature °F(°C) Resistance
68°F(20°C) 2.5 kΩ±6%
212°F (100°C) 0.186 kΩ±2%
Coolant passes through the cylinder and by the
sensor probe, creating a resistance reading which is
relayed to the ECU. This signal is processed by the
ECU and compared to it’s programming for
determining the fuel and ignition requirements during
operation. The ECU also uses this signal to determine
when to activate the fan during operation. If for any
reason the engine temperature sensor circuit is
interrupted, the fan will default to ’ON’.
ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST
Refer to Chapter 10 for testing. Polaris dealers can also
test the sensor by using the Polaris Digital Wrencht
Software (dealer only). Refer to the Digital Wrencht
Software Manual for more information.
ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR
REPLACEMENT
1. Disconnect sensor from engine harness.
2. Using a wrench, remove and replace the sensor,
applying a light coating of thread sealant to aid
installation.
3. Torque the sensor to 18.5 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.18
DIAGNOSTICS USING “BLINK
CODES”
To enable the blinkcodes, turn the ignition from
’off’ to ’on’ 3 times, leaving it ’on’ the 3rd time,
within 5 seconds.
Any “blink codes” stored in the ECU will display, one at
a time, in numerical order. The word END will display
after all codes have been transmitted.
NOTE: To clear codes manually, disconnect the
positive battery lead for 20 seconds.
DIAGNOSTIC “BLINK CODES” CHART
SAE Code Blink Code Name MIL
On?
P0335 21 Loss of Synchronization Yes
P0122 22 TPS Circuit: Open or Short to Ground Yes
P0123 22 TPS Circuit: Short to Battery Yes
P0601 23 RAM Error: Defective ECU Yes
P0113 41 Air Temp Sensor: Open or Short Circuit to Sensor Voltage (ECU) Yes
P0112 41 Air Temp Sensor: Short Circuit to Ground Yes
P0117 42 Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Short to Ground Yes
P0118 42 Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Open or Short to Battery Yes
P0107 45 Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit Low Input Yes
P0108 46 Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit High Input Yes
P1260 51 Injector 1: Open Load Yes
P0261 51 Injector 1: Short Circuit to Ground Yes
P0262 51 Injector 1: Short Circuit to battery Yes
P1263 52 Injector 2: Open Load Yes
P0264 52 Injector 2: Short Circuit to Ground Yes
P0265 52 Injector 2: Short Circuit to Battery Yes
P0655 54 Engine Temperature Lamp: Open Load Yes
P1657 54 Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground Yes
P1658 54 Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Battery Yes
P1651 55 Diagnostic Lamp: Open Load Yes
P1652 55 Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground Yes
P1653 55 Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit to Battery Yes
P1231 56 Pump Relay Open Load Yes
P1232 56 Pump Relay Short Circuit to Ground Yes
P1233 56 Pump Relay Short Circuit to Battery Yes
P1480 58 Cooling Fan: Open Load Yes
P1481 58 Cooling Fan: Short Circuit to Ground Yes
P1482 58 Cooling Fan: Short Circuit to Battery Yes
-- -- 61 End of Diagnostic Check -- --
ON
OFF
NOTE: See Chapter 10 for more details.
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.19
TROUBLESHOOTING
FUEL STARVATION/LEAN MIXTURE
Symptoms: Hard start or no start, bog, backfire,
popping through intake / exhaust, hesitation,
detonation, low power, spark plug erosion, engine
runs hot, surging, high idle, idle speed erratic.
GNo fuel in tank
GRestricted tank vent, or routed
improperly
GFuel lines or fuel injectors restricted
GFuel filter plugged
GFuel pump inoperative
GAir leak in system
GIntake air leak (throttle shaft, intake
ducts, airbox or air cleaner cover)
GIncorrect throttle stop screw
adjustment
RICH MIXTURE
Symptoms: Fouls spark plugs, black, sooty exhaust
smoke, rough idle, poor fuel economy, engine runs
rough/ misses, poor performance, bog, engine loads
up, backfire.
GAir intake restricted (inspect intake
duct)
GAir filter dirty/plugged
GPoor fuel quality (old fuel)
GFouled spark plug
GTPS setting incorrect
GInjector failure
POOR IDLE
Idle Too High (If greater than 1300 RPM when
engine is warm)
GThrottle stop screw set incorrect
GThrottle cable sticking, improperly
adjusted, routed incorrectly
Idle Too Low (If less than 900 RPM when engine
is warm)
GPlugged air filter
GLeaking injector (rich condition)
GBelt dragging
GThrottle stop screw set incorrect
Erratic Idle
GThrottle cable incorrectly adjusted
GAir leaks, dirty injector
GTPS damaged or adjusted
incorrectly
GTight valves
GIgnition timing incorrect
GBelt dragging
GDirty air cleaner
GEngine worn
GSpark plug fouled
GThrottle stop screw set incorrectly
(out of sync with ECU)
FUEL SYSTEM / FUEL INJECTION
4.20
NOTES
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.1
Torque Specifications and Special Tools 5.2........
Cover/Panel Removal 5.2--5.3.......................
Side Panel Removal 5.3.........................
Front Cover Removal 5.4........................
Footwell Removal/Install 5.4.....................
Front Storage Removal/Install 5.5--5.7................
Rear Rack Removal/Install 5.7--5.8...................
Front Cab Removal/Install 5.8....................
Rear Cab Removal/Install 5.9....................
Rear Storage Removal/Install 5.9.................
Radiator Screen Removal 5.10....................
Body Assembly, Exploded View 5.11--5.12...............
Headlight Pod Exploded View 5.13.................
Handlebar Block Installation Procedure 5.14........
Steering Assembly, Exploded View 5.15............
A-Arm Replacement 5.16.........................
Rear Suspension Assembly 5.17..................
Strut Assembly Exploded View 5.18................
Front Strut Cartridge Replacement 5.19............
Front Strut Ball Joint Replacement 5.19--5.20............
Steering Post Assembly 5.20......................
Decal Replacement 5.20.........................
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.2
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
COMPONENT FT. LBS.
(IN.LBS.)
NM
Front Hub Nut 70 95
Front A-Arm Attaching Bolt 30 41
Front A-Arm Ball Joint Stud
Nut
25 35
Handlebar Adjuster Block 11--13 15--18
Master Cylinder Clamp
Bolts
(45-55) 5.2-6.3
Rear Shock Bolt (Upper) 30 41
Rear Shock Bolt (Lower) 30 41
Rear Wheel Hub Nut 80 108
Upper Stabilizer Support
Nuts
17 27
Upper Control Arm Mount-
ing Bolt
35 48
Lower Wheel Bearing Carri-
er Bolt
30 41
Strut Rod Retaining Nut
(Top)
15 21
Strut Casting Pinch Bolt 15 21
TieRodEndJamNut 12-14 17-19
TieRodEndCastleNut 40--45 54--61
TieRodEndAttachingBolt 25-30 35--41
NOTE: Refer to exploded views throughout this
chapter for identification and location of components.
SPECIAL TOOLS
PART NUMBER TOOL DESCRIPTION
2870871 Ball Joint Replacement Tool
2870872 Shock Spanner Wrench
2870623 Shock Absorber Spring
Compression Tool
2871572 Strut Rod Wrench
2871573 LH Strut Spring Compressor
2871574 RH Strut Spring Compressor
7052069 Charging Needle
2200421 Gas Shock Recharging Kit
2871352 Shock Rod Holding Tool
2871199 Seal Sleeve Installation Tool
Kit
2870872 Shock Spanner Wrench
2871351 FoxtShock IFP Depth Tool
PLASTIC INSERT REMOVAL /
INSTALLATION
Some Polaris ATVs use a two piece plastic insert in
place of a metal screw. The plastic inserts are easy
to remove and install.
1. Use a a pair of diagonal side cutters to lift the
plastic insert (A) until you feel some slight
pressure or lift the insert approximately 1/4” (6.35
mm). Apply just enough pressure on the side
cutters to lift up on the insert. DO NOT apply too
much pressure on the side cutters, or damage to
the insert will occur.
A
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.3
2. Next, use the diagonal side cutters under outside
insert (B) to completely remove the assembly.
NOTE: The inside insert (A) will still be installed in
the outside insert (B
B
3. To install the inserts, press outside insert (B) into
the hole. Press inside insert (A) until it snaps into
place.
NOTE: The outside insert (B) should be flush
surface after installation.
The inside insert (A) should be flush with the top of
the outside insert (B).
A
B
SIDE PANEL REMOVAL
Side panel removal is quick and easy, use the
following instructions for removal and installation.
1. Remove seat by releasing the latch and lifting up
on the seat.
Step 1.
2. Grasp the rear of the side panel near the rear cab.
With a firm motion, pull the panel outward to
disengage the side panel from the grommet. Pull
the panel downward and rearward to remove it
from the ATV.
Step 2.
3. Reinstall the side panel by reversing the removal
procedure.
Step 3.
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.4
FRONT COVER REMOVAL /
INSTALLATION
1. Open the front storage compartment.
2. Pull up and outward on the front cover to remove
the cover.
3. To install the front cover, insert the tabs of thefront
cover into the inserts of the cab. Make sure the
tabs are aligned with the slots. Then press the
rear tabs into the slots.
FOOT WELL REMOVAL /
INSTALLATION
1. Remove the four plastic inserts (A) that secure
the wheel well to the front and rear cabs. (See
“PLASTIC INSERT REMOVAL /
INSTALLATION” for help).
2. Remove the four screws (B) from the bottom of
the foot well. Remove the footwell.
A
A
B
18 in.lbs.
(2 Nm)
3. Reverse the removal procedures to install the foot
well. Be sure to properly align the the cab ends
into the foot wells upon reassembly.
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.5
FRONT STORAGE REMOVAL
Front Cab
Inserts
Front Storage
-- T -- 2 5 S c r e w s
1. Remove the front radiator cap cover (A) by lifting
upward on the cover.
A
2. Remove the strut tower caps (B). Squeeze the
caps inward and lift up to remove.
B
3. Remove the four bolts that secure the storage
rack to the frame.
Remove Bolts
4. Remove the two (T25) screws that secure the
storage box to the front fender well areas (each
side).
Remove Bolts
5. Remove the two (T25) screws that secure the
outside of the storage box to the front fenders
(each side).
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.6
T--25 Screws
View -- Under Right Fender
Winch Installation Area
6. Remove the front cover piece by lifting up on
sides of the two locking tabs as shown. Pull the
tabs out of the notches and lift up on the cover
piece.
Pull Out to Remove
To install the front cover place top lip of the cover into
the groove in the rack, then press in the bottom of the
cover until the notches snap into place.
Lip
Groove
2. Press Tabs In
1. Place Lip in Groove
7. Remove the front headlights (C) or simply
disconnect the electric connector (D) before
removing the front plastic bumper.
CD
8. Remove the remaining bolts and screws that
secure the front bumper section to the frame.
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.7
FRONT STORAGE
INSTALLATION
Front Cab
Inserts
Front Storage
A
B
B
C
CE
A. 14 ft.lbs. (19 Nm)
B. 10 in.lbs. (1.13 Nm)
C. 10 in.lbs. (1.13 Nm)
D
-- T -- 2 5 S c r e w
D. 24 in.lbs. (2.7 Nm)
1. Place the front storage rack onto the frame.
2. Install the four bolts (A) into the inside of the
compartment hand tight.
3. Install the four screws and washers (B) (T--25)
under the fender area (2 each side).
4. Install the four screws (C) (T--25) into the front
fender area of the storage box (2 each side).
5. Install the two screws (D) into the rear area of the
cab (if removed).
6. Install the two plastic inserts (E) into the front cab
(if removed).
7. Torque all bolts and screws according to the
illustration.
8. Install the front radiator cap cover (E) and shock
tower covers (F).
E
F
REAR RACK REMOVAL/
INSTALLATION
-- T -- 2 7 S c r e w
A
A. 36 in.lbs. (4 Nm)
B. 18 in.lbs. (2 Nm)
A
A
ABB
C
C
B
1. Remove the six (A) T27 screws and two bolts (B)
that secure the rear rack to the rear cab and
frame.
2. Lift the rear rack from the ATV. Remove the two
rack spacers (C).
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.8
Rear Rack Installation
3. Place spacers on frame.
4. Install rear rack onto rear frame and cab.
5. Install the two bolts (B) and six (A) T--27 screws.
Torque the bolts (A) to 18 in.lbs. (2 Nm) and six
T--27 screws to 36 in.lbs. (4 Nm). Refer to the
illustration for torque values.
FRONT CAB/FENDER
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1. Follow the “FRONT RACK / BUMPER
REMOVAL” section to begin removal of the front
cab, rack, and bumper.
2. Remove the plastic inserts (A) that secure the
front cab to the upper strut support.
A
3. Remove the two screws (B) that secure the front
cab to the frame in the fuel tank mount area.
B
A
B
24 in.lbs.
(2.7 Nm)
4. Remove the side panels (D), refer to the “SIDE
PANEL REMOVAL” section.
5. Remove the plastic inserts (E) that secure the
front of the foot wells to the front
cab.
E
D
6. Remove the fuel cap and place a clean lint free
shop towel into the tank neck to keep any debris
from falling into the tank.
7. The front cab should now slide back over the fuel
tank and fuel tank neck.
NOTE: When removing the front cab use caution so
the plastic cab does not scratch or get caught on other
components.
8. Reverse the removal steps for installation.
Torque two front cab to frame screws to 24 in.lbs.
(2.7 Nm).
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.9
REAR CAB / FENDER
REMOVAL / INSTALLATION
1. Follow the ““REAR RACK REMOVAL” procedure
to remove the rear rack.
2. Remove the three screws (A) (T--25) that secure
the rear cab to the storage container.
A
3. Remove the ten plastic inserts that secure the
rear cab to the frame and plastic.
T--25 -- 6 in.lbs.
Remove plastic dart inserts.
4. Disconnect the rear lights by pulling the locks on
each side and removing the connectors. Lift the
rear cab from the frame.
Remove Connectors
Lock
5. Reverse the removal steps for installation.
REAR STORAGE
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1. Follow the “REAR RACK REMOVAL” and “REAR
CAB REMOVAL” procedure to remove the rear
storage compartment. After the rear cab is
removed the storage compartment comes out.
2. Remove the two plastic inserts that hold the rear
storage compartment in place.
3. For installation, reverse the removal steps.
4. Torque the 3 T--25 screws that hold the rear
storage to the rear cab to 6 in. lbs. (0.70 Nm).
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.10
RADIATOR SCREEN
REMOVAL
1. Pull out slightly on the top of the radiator screen.
2. With the top free, pull out on the bottom of the
screen to remove the screen.
3. To install the screen, simply press the tabs on the
screen back into the mounting grommets. Be
sure the screen is securely in place.
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.11
BODY ASSEMBLY EXPLODED VIEW
Rear Cab Assembly
Front Cab Assembly
Seat Latch
Release
Storage
Rear Cab
Side Cover
Front Cover
Front Cab
Wheelwell
Pull UP on rear of seat and back
to disengage tabs at front of seat
Splash Shields
Frame
Frame
Wheelwell
Seat Latch
Side Cover
Front Brush Guard
Support
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.12
BODY RACK EXPLODED VIEW
Rack Rails
Rear Rack
Rear Rack Support
Rack Rails
Radiator Shield
Support
Radiator Screen
Grill
Panel
Front Brush Guard
Front Bumper
Cover
Box Latches
Front
Box
Assy.
Strut Covers
Rack Mounting
Hardware
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.13
HEADLIGHT POD EXPLODED VIEW
Clean knurling when
repositioning handlebars
*NOTE: To install handlebars, follow
the handlebar block torque procedure
on the next page.
Disassembly
SRemove two side Phillips screws (A).
SRemove one rear Phillips screw (B).
SLift top half of pod.
SDisconnect instrument cluster wire connectors.
SDisconnect work light switch connector.
SDisconnect 12V power plug (G).
SDisconnect headlight harness.
SRemove ignition switch (C) and choke cable (D).
SRemove headlight (F) with adjuster.
SRemove two screws securing bottom half of pod (E).
Assembly
SInstall bottom of pod onto handlebar and secure to brackets.
SInstall key switch, choke cable, and headlight.
SConnect 12V power outlet (where applicable)
SConnect headlight.
SConnect instrument cluster connectors to instrument cluster.
SInstall top of pod onto bottom half, making sure interlocking tabs mate properly.
SInstall two side Phillips screws.
SInstall one rear Phillips screw.
STo adjust headlight, refer to procedure outlined in Chapter 2.
STo apply decals, refer to Page 5.20.
E
A
D
C
F
A
B
C
*NOTE: Refer to Chapter 10 for more
information on headlight pod compo-
nents.
G
Instrument Cluster
Worklight Switch
ETC
Brake
Controls
Wheel Speed Sensor
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.14
HANDLEBAR BLOCK INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. The pin (A) on the bottom side of the top handlebar block faces down and to the front of the ATV.
5. Install the rear bolts and tighten evenly. Evenly torque the 2 rear bolts to 11--13 ft.lbs. (15--18 Nm).
Clean the knurling when
repositioning handlebars.
A
B
11--13 ft.lbs. (15--18 Nm)
*Install and Torque Front Bolts First
NOTE: There will be a slight gap on the backside of the blocks after the procedure is performed.
2. The bottom handle bar block has a side with 3 holes, the side with 3 holes faces up and to the front of the ATV.
3. Align the pin (A) in the top block with the middle hole (B) in the bottom block for proper installation.
The pin (A) and middle hole (B) should face the front of the ATV.
4. Install the pin side bolts first and evenly tighten the bolts down. Evenly torque the 2 front bolts to 11--13
ft.lbs.(15--18 Nm).
25-30 ft. lbs.
(35-41 Nm)
8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm)
25 ft. lbs.
(35 Nm)
30 ft. lbs.
(41 Nm)
Always use new bolts
upon reassembly
Always use new cotter pins upon
reassembly. Install with open end
toward rear of machine.
B
1
2
1
30 ft. lbs.
(41 Nm)
A
2
12-14 ft. lbs.
(17-19 Nm)
40-45 ft. lbs.
(54-61 Nm)
Steering Post
Steering Post
Arm (Frog)
12
NOTE:
To avoid damage to tie rods and other steering
components, be sure to install tie rod end bolts in the
proper direction. The steering post arm bolt (B) points up;
the rod end bolts (A) point down. Be sure inner rod ends
are placed between the steering post arms.
Apply Loctitet242 to
the bolt threads.
242
242
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.15
STEERING/A--ARM EXPLODED VIEW
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.16
A-ARM REPLACEMENT
1. Elevate and safely support vehicle with weight removed from front wheel(s).
2. Remove cotter pin from ball joint stud at wheel end of A-arm and loosen nut until it is flush with end of stud.
3. Using a soft face hammer, tap nut to loosen A-arm from bolt. Remove nut and A-arm from hub strut assembly.
4. Loosen two bolts on A-arm tube by alternating each about 1/3 of the way until A-arm can be removed.
5. Examine A-arm shaft. Replace if worn. Discard hardware.
6. Insert A-arm shaft into new A-arm.
7. Install CV joint shields.
8. Install new A-arm assembly onto vehicle frame. Torque new bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (41.4 Nm).
WARNING
The locking features on the existing bolts were destroyed
during removal. DO NOT reuse old bolts. Serious injury
or death could result if fasteners come loose during
operation.
9. Attach A-arm to hub strut assembly. Tighten ball joint
nut to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). If cotter pin holes are not
aligned, tighten nut slightly to align. Install a newcotter
pin with open ends toward rear of machine. Bend both
ends in opposite directions around nut.
WARNING
Upon A-arm installation completion, test vehicle at low speeds before putting into regular service.
Vehicle Frame
Nut
Cotter Pin
Ball Joint
Stud
CV Joint Shield
A-Arm Tube
A-Arm Shaft
Bolt 30 ft. lbs.
(41 Nm)
Washer 25 ft. lbs
(35 Nm).
8 ft. lbs.
(11 Nm)
Bolt 30 ft. lbs.
(41 Nm)
Apply Loctitet242 to
the bolt threads.
242
242
Bushing
A-arm Attaching Bolt Torque:
30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Ball Joint Stud Nut Torque:
25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm)
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.17
REAR SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY
17 ft. lbs.
(24 Nm)
Stabilizer Support
35 ft. lbs.
(48 Nm)
30 ft. lbs.
(41 Nm)
30 ft. lbs.
(41 Nm)
Lower Control Arm
Orientate
Bushings
Correctly
Rear Front
Bushing Orientation
1
1
1
Upper Control
Arm
35 ft. lbs.
(48 Nm)
35 ft. lbs.
(48 Nm)
17 ft. lbs.
(24 Nm)
Bushings
Rear Shock
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.18
STRUT ASSEMBLY
NOTE: Grease fitting location. Check lubrication guide for recommended service intervals.
15 ft. lbs.
(21 Nm)
Nut
15 ft. lbs.
(21 Nm)
18 ft. lbs.
(25 Nm)
Washer
Upper Pivot Ball
Lower Pivot Ball
Spacer Rubber
Spring Retainer
Spring
Bolt
Spacer
Nut
Washer
Clamp
Strut
Strut Bumper
Hubstrut Bearing
Retaining Ring
Lubrication Fitting
Brake Caliper
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.19
FRONT STRUT CARTRIDGE
REPLACEMENT
REFER TO ILLUSTRATION ON PAGE
5.18
1. Hold strut rod and remove top nut.
2. Remove upper strut pivot assembly.
Strut Spring Compressor Tools
(PN 2871573) and (PN 2871574)
Strut Rod Wrench (PN 2871572)
3. Compress spring using strut spring compressor
tools and remove the spacer nut.
4. Remove coil spring and collapse strut cartridge.
5. Remove two pinch bolts from strut casting.
6. Remove strut cartridge.
7. Install cartridge until bottomed in strut casting.
8. Install pinch bolts with wire clamp(s). Torque
pinch bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).
9. Reassemble spring and top pivot assembly. Be
sure all parts are installed properly and seated
fully.
10. Torque strut rod nut to specification. Do not over
torque the nut.
Strut Rod Nut Torque
15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT.
NOTE: Refer to the illustration on the previous page
for this procedure.
1. Loosen front wheel nuts slightly.
2. Elevate and safely support machine under
footrest/frame area.
CAUTION: Serious injury may result if machine tips
or falls. Be sure machine is secure before beginning
this service procedure.
3. Remove wheel nuts and wheels.
A
BC
D
E
F
4. Remove cotter pin (A) from ball joint castle nut
(B).
5. Remove castle nut (B) and separate A-arm (C)
from ball joint stud.
6. Remove screws (D) and ball joint retaining plate
plate (E).
7. Use the Ball Joint Replacement Tool (PN
2870871), remove ball joint (F) from strut
housing. Refer to photos at right.
G
H
I
J
SInstall puller guide (G) with extension cap
(H).
SApply grease to extension cap and
threads of puller bolt to ease removal.
SThread bolt (J) with nut (I) onto ball joint
stud as shown.
SApply heat to ease removal.
SHold bolt (J) and turn nut (I) clockwise
until ball joint is removed from strut
housing.
BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION
5.20
A
B
C
E
D
L
K
8. To install new ball joint:
SRemove extension cap and attach puller
guide using short bolts provided in the kit.
SInsert new ball joint (K) into driver (L).
SSlide ball joint/driver assembly into
guide.
SApply heat to ease installation.
SDrive new joint into strut housing until
fully seated.
9. Apply Loctitet242 (PN 2871949) to threads of
retaining plate screws or install new screws with
pre-applied locking agent. Torque screws to 8 ft.
lbs. (11 Nm).
10. Install A-arm on ball joint and torque castle nut to
25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
11. Reinstall cotter pin with open ends toward rear of
machine.
DECAL REPLACEMENT
Plastic polyethylene material must be “flame treated”
prior to installing a decal to ensure good adhesion.
The flame treating procedure can often be used to
reduce or eliminate the whitish stress marks that are
sometimes left after a fender or cab is bent, flexed, or
damaged.
WARNING
The following procedure involves the use of an
open flame. Perform this procedure in a well ventilated
area, away from gasoline or other flammable materials.
Be sure the area to be flame treated is clean and free
of gasoline or flammable residue.
To flame treat the decal area:
1. Pass the flame of a propane torch back and forth
quickly over the area where the decal is to be
applied until the surface appears slightly glossy.
This should occur after just a few seconds of
flame treating. Do not hold the torch too close to
the surface. Keep the torch moving to prevent
damage.
2. Apply the decal.
STEERING POST ASSEMBLY
12 ft. lbs.
(16 Nm)
AB
1. Hand tighten steering post slotted nut (A).
2. Align the cotter pin hole on the steering post
slotted nut (A).
3. Install the cotter pin (B). Bend both ends of the
cotter pin around the slotted nut (A) in opposite
directions.
4. Check the steering, the handle bars must move
freely and easily from full left to full right without
binding.
CLUTCH
6.1
Drive Clutch Exploded View 6.2...............
PVT Sealing and Ducting Components 6.2......
EBS System Exploded View 6.3...............
Special Tools, Supplies & Torques 6.4..........
PVT Operation Overview 6.4..................
PVT Maintenance/Inspection/Drying 6.5........
PVT Overheating/Diagnosis 6.6...............
PVT Disassembly 6.7........................
PVT Assembly/Inspection 6.8.................
Drive Clutch Spring Specifications 6.9..........
Shift Weights/Inspection 6.10--6.11..................
700 Drive Clutch Disassembly/Inspection 6.11--6.15....
700 Drive Clutch Reassembly 6.15--6.16..............
Drive Belt Removal/Inspection 6.16.............
Drive Belt Installation 6.17.....................
Clutch Alignment/Offset 6.18...................
Drive Clutch Bushing Service 6.19--6.20..............
Driven Clutch Service 6.21--6.26.....................
Driven Clutch Exploded View 6.27..............
Troubleshooting 6.28--6.29..........................
CLUTCH
6.2
700 / 800 DRIVE CLUTCH EXPLODED VIEW
EBS Drive Clutch Mark with permanent marker before disassembly to maintain clutch balance
700 EFI One way clutch
E2004 Polaris Sales Inc.
800 EFI
700 EFI
800 EFI One way clutch
PVT SEALING AND DUCTING COMPONENTS
Clutch Cover
Clutch Inlet Duct
Clamps
Clutch Cover Seal
Seal Retainer
Bracket
Inner Cover
Seal
Transmission Cover
Seal Inner Clutch
Cover
Boot Duct
CLUTCH
6.3
ENGINE BRAKING SYSTEM (EBS) EXPLODED VIEW
Bolts, Lock
Washers
Coil
Spring
Shift Weights
Spacer Sleeve
Brass Washer
One Way
Clutch Drive
2.25″PTFE
Washer
Screws
Clutch
Shaft
Compression
Spring
Cam Assy.
Drive Belt
Bearing
Retaining
Rings
Drive Clutch Assembly
(700 EFI Shown)
Cover
Bushing
Roller/Bushing
Assembly
Spacer
Washer
Spider
Assy.
Torque to
200 Ft. Lbs.
(271 Nm)
Retaining
Ring
Clutch Rollers
Spider Lock Nut
Sheaves
CLUTCH
6.4
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS
AND SUPPLIES
TOOL
DESCRIPTION PART NUMBER
Clutch Puller 2870506
Clutch Holding
Wrench 9314177
Clutch Holding
Fixture 2871358
Spider Nut Socket 2870338
Drive Clutch
Spider Removal
and Install Tool
2870341
Driven Clutch
Puller 2870913
Roller Pin Tool 2870910
Clutch Bushing
Replacement Tool
Kit
2871226
Piston Pin Puller 2870386
EBS Clutch
Alignment Tool 2872292
EBS Bushing
Replacement Kit 2201379
Driven Clutch
Compression Tool PU--47086
Std. Clutch
Compression Tool 8700220
Clutch Bushing
Replacement Tool
Kit
2871025
800 EFI Drive
Clutch Bushing
Replacement Tool
PA--47336
PVT SYSTEM FASTENER
TORQUES
PVT COMPONENT TORQUE VALUE
Drive Clutch Retaining Bolt 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
Driven Clutch Retaining Bolt 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)
PVT Inner Cover Bolts 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm)
Drive Clutch Spider EBS
Clutch 200 ft. lbs. (271 Nm)
Drive Clutch Spider Lock Nut
(Plastic) 15 ft. lbs. (20.3 Nm)
Drive Clutch Cover Plate 90 in. lbs. (10 Nm)
PVT OPERATION OVERVIEW
WARNING
All PVT maintenance or repairs should be
performed only by a certified Polaris Master Service
Dealer (MSD) technician who has received the proper
training and understands the procedures outlined in
this manual. Because of the critical nature and
precision balance incorporated into the PVT
components, it is absolutely essential that no
disassembly or repair be made without factory
authorized special tools and service procedures.
The Polaris Variable Transmission (PVT) consists of
three major assemblies: 1) The Drive Clutch; 2) The
Driven Clutch; and 3) The Drive Belt. The internal
components of the drive clutch and driven clutch
control engagement (initial vehicle movement), clutch
upshift and backshift. During the development of a
Polaris ATV, the PVT system is matched first to the
engine power curve; then to average riding conditions
and the vehicle’s intended usage. Therefore,
modifications or variations of components at random
are never recommended. Proper clutch setup and
careful inspection of existing components must be the
primary objective when troubleshooting and tuning.
DRIVE CLUTCH OPERATION
Drive clutches primarily sense engine RPM. The two
major components which control its shifting function
are the shift weights and the coil spring. Whenever
engine RPM is increased, centrifugal force is created,
causing the shift weights to push against rollers on the
moveable sheave, which is held open by coil spring
preload. When this force becomes higher than the
preload in the spring, the outer sheave moves inward
and contacts the drive belt. This motion pinches the
drive belt between the spinning sheaves and causes
it to rotate, which in turn rotates the driven clutch.
At lower RPM, the drive belt rotates low in the drive
clutch sheaves. As engine RPM increases,
centrifugal force causes the drive belt to be forced
upward on drive clutch sheaves.
DRIVEN CLUTCH OPERATION
Driven clutches primarily sense torque, opening and
closing according to the forces applied to it from the
drive belt and the transmission input shaft. If the
torque resistance at the transmission input shaft is
greater than the load from the drive belt, the drive belt
is kept at the outer diameter of the driven clutch
sheaves.
CLUTCH
6.5
DRIVEN CLUTCH OPERATION CONT’D
As engine RPM and horsepower increase, the load
from the drive belt increases, resulting in the belt
rotating up toward the outer diameter of the drive
clutch sheaves and downward into the sheaves of the
driven clutch. This action, which increases the driven
clutch speed, is called upshifting.
Should the throttle setting remain the same and the
vehicle is subjected to a heavier load, the drive belt
rotates back up toward the outer diameter of the
driven clutch and downward into the sheaves of the
drive clutch. This action, which decreases the driven
clutch speed, is called backshifting.
In situations where loads vary (such as uphill and
downhill) and throttle settings are constant, the drive
and driven clutches are continually shifting to maintain
optimum engine RPM. At full throttle a perfectly
matched PVT system should hold engine RPM at the
peak of the power curve. This RPM should be
maintained during clutch upshift and backshift. In this
respect, the PVT system is similar to a power
governor. Rather than vary throttle position, as a
conventional governor does, the PVT system
changes engine load requirements by either
upshifting or backshifting.
PVT
MAINTENANCE/INSPECTION
Under normal operation the PVT system will provide
years of trouble free operation. Periodic inspection
and maintenance is required to keep the system
operating at peak performance. The following list of
items should be inspected and maintained to ensure
maximum performance and service life of PVT
components. Refer to the troubleshooting checklist at
the end of this chapter for more information.
1. Drive to Driven Clutch Offset, Belt Width. See
Page-6.16--6.18
2. Drive and Driven Clutch Rollers and
Bushings, Drive Clutch Shift Weights and
Pins, Drive Clutch Spider Rollers and Roller
Pins, Drive and Driven Clutch Springs. See
Pages 6.11-6.12
3. Sheave Faces. Clean and inspect for wear.
4. PVT System Sealing. Refer to appropriate
illustrations and photos. The PVT system is air
cooled by fins on the drive clutch stationary
sheave. The fins create a low pressure area in the
crankcase casting, drawing air into the system
through an intake duct. The opening for this
intake duct is located at a high point on the vehicle
(location varies by model). The intake duct draws
fresh air through a vented cover. All connecting
air ducts, as well as the inner and outer covers,
must be properly sealed to ensure clean air is
being used for cooling the PVT system. This also
will prevent water and other contaminants from
entering the PVT area. A sealed PVT is
especially critical on units subjected to frequent
water forging.
PVT DRYING
Special Tool NOTE: If operating the ATV through
water, be sure to check the PVT cover and other ATV
components for water ingestion. The ATV should be
checked immediately. Refer to Owner’s Manual for
Safe Riding Tips.
PVT Drain Plug
To drain any water that may be trapped inside the PVT
cover, simply remove the PVT drain plug and O--ring
located on the bottom of the PVT cover and let the
water drain out. The PVT drain plug is shown below.
To further expel water in the PVT cover and to dry out
the PVT system, shift the transmission to neutral and
rev engine slightly to expel the moisture. This will also
air-dry the belt and clutches. Allow engine RPM to
settle to idle speed, shift transmission to lowest
available range and test for belt slippage. Repeat as
needed. Operate ATV in lowest available range for a
short period of time until PVT system is dry.
PVT Drain Plug & O--ring
CLUTCH
6.6
PVT OVERHEATING/DIAGNOSIS
During routine maintenance or whenever PVT system overheating is evident, it’s important to check the inlet
and outlet ducting for obstructions. Obstructions to air flow through the ducts will significantly increase PVT
system operating temperatures. The ATV should be operated in LOW RANGE when pulling or plowing heavy
loads, or if extended low speed operation is anticipated.
GENERAL RANGE OPERATION
GUIDELINES:
Low Range: Heavy pulling, basic operational speeds less
than 7 MPH, riding through rough terrain (swamps, mountains,
etc..), low ground speeds.
High Range: High ground speeds, speeds above 7 MPH.
Diagnosis of Clutch Drive Belt & Cover Related Issues:
Possible Causes Solutions/What to do
Loading the ATV into a pickup or tall trailer
when in high range. Shift transmission to low range during loading of the ATV to
prevent belt burning.
Starting out going up a steep incline. When starting out on an incline, use low range, or dismount the
ATV after first applying the park brake and perform the “K”
turn.
Driving at low RPM or low ground speed
(at approximately 3--7 MPH). Drive at higher speed or use Low Range. The use of Low
Range is highly recommended for cooler PVT operating tem-
peratures and longer component life.
Insufficient warm--up of ATVs exposed to
low ambient temperatures. Warm engine at least 5 min., then with transmission in neutral,
advance throttle to approx. 1/8 throttle in short bursts, 5 to 7
times. The belt will become more flexible and prevent belt
burning.
Slow and easy clutch engagement. Fast, effective use of the throttle for efficient engagement.
Continuous operation at the point of engagement (initial vehicle
movement) increases PVT temperatures and component wear.
Towing/Pushing at low RPM/low ground
speed. Use Low Range only.
Plowing snow, dirt, etc./utility use. Use Low Range only.
Stuck in mud or snow. Shift the transmission to Low Range, carefully use fast,
aggressive throttle application to engage clutch. Warning:
Excessive throttle may cause loss of control and vehicle
overturn.
Climbing over large objects from a
stopped position. Shift the transmission to Low Range, carefully use fast,
aggressive, throttle application to engage clutch. Warning:
Excessive throttle may cause loss of control and vehicle
overturn.
Belt slippage from water or snow ingestion
into the PVT system. Shift the transmission to neutral. Using the throttle, vary the
engine rpm from idle to 3/4 throttle. Engage transmission in
the lowest possible range and test for belt slippage Repeat
several times as required. During this procedure, the
throttle should not be held at the full position for more
than 10 seconds. PVT seals should be inspected for damage
if repeated leaking occurs.
Clutch malfunction. Inspection/repair of clutch components should be performed by
a certified Polaris MSD techinician.
CLUTCH
6.7
PVT DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: Some fasteners and procedures will vary.
Refer to the appropriate parts manual for proper
fasteners and fastener placement.
1. Remove seat.
2. Remove or loosen rear cab fasteners as
necessary to gain access to PVT outer cover.
3. Remove PVT air outlet duct hose.
4. Remove outer cover screws. Refer to Page 6.2.
5. Mark the drive belt direction of rotation and
remove drive belt. See Page 6.16 for drive belt
removal.
6. Remove drive clutch retaining bolt and remove
drive clutch using puller.
Drive Clutch Puller (PN 2870506)
Clutch Holding Wrench (PN 9314177)
7. Remove driven clutch retaining bolt and driven
clutch. Use puller if necessary.
Driven Clutch Puller (PN 2870913)
8. Remove driven clutch offset spacers from the
transmission input shaft. NOTE: Remember to
keep spacers in order for proper clutch offset on
reassembly.
Offset
Spacer
9. Remove cover screws and retainer plate.
Foam Seal
Inner cover
Retainer Seal
10. Remove inner cover retaining bolts at rear of
cover.
11. Remove cover along with foam seal on back of
cover or shaft.
CLUTCH
6.8
PVT ASSEMBLY/INSPECTION
1. Inspect PVT inner cover-to-engine seal. Replace
if cracked or damaged. Align the alignment mark
on the cover with the mark on the engine seal.
Seal this edge to cover on engine side
2. Place a new seal on transmission input shaft.
3. Apply RTV silicone sealant to outside edge of
inner cover-to-engine seal, to ensure a water tight
fit between the seal and the cover on engine side.
Surfaces must be clean to ensure adhesion of
silicone sealant.
4. Reinstall cover and tighten rear cover bolts just
enough to hold it in place.
5. Fit lip of inner cover seal (A) to engine. Install seal
retainer plate and tighten screws securely.
6. Torque rear inner cover bolts (B) to specification.
Seal outer edge to cover
with RTV silicone sealant
A
BC
Inner Cover Bolt Torque (Rear):
12 ft. lbs. (16.6 Nm)
Driven Clutch Retaining Bolt Torque:
17 ft. lbs. (23.5 Nm)
Drive Clutch Retaining Bolt Torque:
40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm)
7. Install clutch offset spacer(s) on transmission
input shaft.
Offset
Spacer
8. Clean splines inside driven clutch and on the
transmission input shaft.
9. Apply a light film of grease to the splines on the
shaft.
10. Install the driven clutch, washer, lock washer, and
retaining bolt. Torque to specification.
11. Clean end of taper on crankshaft and the taper
bore inside drive clutch.
12. Install drive clutch and torque retaining bolt to
specification.
13. Reinstall drive belt noting direction of rotation. If a
new belt is installed, install so numbers can be
easily read.
14. Only replace PVT outer cover rubber gasket if it is
damaged. Place the gasket with the narrow side
out (C).
PVT Cover Gasket
Toward outer cover
15. Reinstall PVT outer cover and secure with
screws.
16. Reinstall rear cab assembly, panel and seat.
CLUTCH
6.9
DRIVE CLUTCH SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
The drive clutch spring has two
primary functions:
1. Controls clutch engagement
RPM. The springs which have a
higher rate when the clutch is in
neutral will increase clutch
engagement RPM.
2. Controls the rate at which the
drive belt moves upward in the
drive clutch sheaves. This is
referred to as drive clutch upshift.
The drive clutch spring is one of the
most critical components of the PVT
system. It is also one of the easiest to
service. Due to the severe stress the
coil spring is subject to during
operation, it should always be
inspected for tolerance limits during
any clutch diagnosis or repair.
There are other components which
control upshift, but the spring is one of
the primary components in insuring
optimum performance. It is very
important that the spring is of correct
design and is in good condition.
CAUTION: Never shim a drive clutch
spring to increase its compression
rate. This may result in complete
stacking of the coils and subsequent
clutch component failure.
Measuring Spring Length: With the spring resting on
a flat surface, measure its free length from the outer coil
surfaces as shown. Refer to the spring specification
chart for specific free length measurements and
tolerances. Also check to see that spring coils are
parallel to one another. Distortion of the spring indicates
stress fatigue, requiring replacement.
Primary Clutch Springs Secondary Clutch Springs
PART
NUMBER COLOR
CODE WIRE
DIAMETER FREE LENGTH
¦.125I
PART
NUMBER DESCRIPTION
7041021 Plain .157I4.38I3234199 White
7041022 Black .140I4.25I
7041063 Purple .168I4.37I
7041132 White .177I2.92I
7041168 Green .177I3.05I
7041157 Blue/Green .177I2.53I
2.5 2.25 2.00 1.75 1.50 1.25 1.19
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
200
220
240
260
280
300
ATV TRAVEL
COMPRESSED SPRING LENGTH (INCHES)
Green
7041168
Purple
7041063
White
7041132
Plain
7041021
Black
7041022
NEUTRAL FULL UPSHIFT
Blue/Green
7041157
FORCE (POUNDS)
CLUTCH
6.10
SHIFT WEIGHTS
Shown below are optional shift weights which may be used in the PVT system. These shift weights have many
different factors designed into them for controlling engagement RPM and shifting patterns. Shift weights should
not be changed or altered without first having a thorough understanding the effects they have on belt to sheave
clearance, clutch balance, engagement and shifting characteristics.
PN 5630513
50.5 gr
PN 5630509
55 gr
55
16
PN 5630279
43 gr
PN 5630418
50 gr PN 5630095
53 gr
53
PN 5630709
44 gr PN 5630710
46 gr PN 5630711
47gr
RH BH
10 10
10
WH
PN 5631214
20
54
54 gr
20
56
PN 5631215
56 gr
20
58
PN 5631216
58 gr
CLUTCH
6.11
SHIFT WEIGHT INSPECTION
1. Inspect as shown, using a clutch holding tool to
compress the moveable sheave. The contact
surface of the weight should be smooth and free
of dents or gall marks. Remove shift weight bolts
and weights.
Broken Worn Good
Inspect the weight pivot bore and pivot bolts for
wear or galling. If weights or bolts are worn or
broken, replace in sets of three with new bolts.
NOTE: A damaged shift weight is usually caused
by a damaged or stuck roller in the spider
assembly. See roller inspection, Page 6.13.
WARNING
The clutch assembly is a precisely balanced unit.
Never replace parts with used parts from another
clutch assembly!
All PVT maintenance or repairs should be performed
only by a certified Polaris Master Service Dealer
(MSD) technician who has received the proper
training and understands the procedures outlined in
this manual. Because of the critical nature and
precision balance incorporated into the PVT
system, it is absolutely essential that no attempt
at disassembly or repair be made without factory
authorized special tools and service procedures.
BUTTON TO TOWER
CLEARANCE INSPECTION
1. Inspect for any clearance between spider button
to tower. If clearance exists, replace all buttons
and inspect surface of towers. See Spider
Removal Page 6.12.
Button to Tower Clearance:
.000 - .001I
2. Inspect sheave surfaces. Replace the entire
clutch as an assembly if worn, damaged or
cracked.
DRIVE CLUTCH
DISASSEMBLY
1. Using a permanent marker, mark the cover,
spider, and moveable and stationary sheaves for
reference, as the previous X’s may not have been
in alignment before disassembly.
Mark
“X”
Mark
CLUTCH
6.12
DRIVE CLUTCH DISASSEMBLY CONT’D
2. Remove cover bolts evenly in a cross pattern and
remove cover plate.
3. Inspect cover bushing (A). The outer cover
bushing is manufactured with a Teflontcoating.
Wear is determined by the amount of Teflon™
remaining on the bushing.
A
Cover Bushing inspection
Cover Bushing Inspection:
Replace the cover bushing if more
brass than Teflontis visible on the
bushing. Refer to bushing replace-
ment in this chapter.
4. Inspect area on shaft where bushing rides for
wear, galling, nicks, or scratches. Replace clutch
assembly if worn or damaged.
5. Remove and inspect spring. (See Page 6.9)
Inspect shaft
SPIDER REMOVAL
1. Remove the limiter nut using the Clutch Spider
Nut Socket (PN 2870338). Install clutch in
holding fixture and loosen the spider
(counterclockwise) using Clutch Spider Install
Tool (PN 2870341).
Clutch Holding Fixture:
(PN 2871358)
Spider Removal Tool:
(PN 2870341)
Special Tool NOTE: It is important that the same
number and thickness of washers are reinstalled
beneath the spider during assembly. Be sure to note
the number and thickness of these washers.
To maintain proper clutch balance
and belt-to-sheave clearance, be
sure to reinstall original quantity
and thickness washers
CLUTCH
6.13
Moveable Sheave Bushing Inspection
2. Inspect the Teflontcoating on the moveable
sheave bushing.
Moveable Sheave Bushing Inspection:
Replace the cover bushing if more brass
than Teflontis visible on the bushing.
Refer to bushing replacement in this
chapter.
Roller, Pin and Thrust Washer Inspection
3. Inspect all rollers, bushings and roller pins by
pulling a flat metal rod across the roller. Turnroller
with your finger. If you notice resistance, galling,
or flat spots, replace rollers, pins and thrust
washers in sets of three. Also inspect to see if
roller and bushing are separating. Bushing must
fit tightly in roller. Use the Roller Pin Tool (PN
2870910) to replace rollers and pins. Take care
not to damage roller bushing or bearing surface of
the new pin during installation.
4. Rubber backed buttons can and should be used in
all ATV clutches if the hollow roller pin is changed
to a solid roller pin. NOTE: The rubber side of the
button is positioned toward the solid roller pin. It is
recommended to switch all buttons to the rubber
version during service (if needed).
ONE-WAY CLUTCH
INSPECTION (DRIVE
CLUTCH)
1. Rotate one-way clutch clockwise (as viewed from
the cover plate side). The clutch should rotate on
the shaft with only slight amount of drag. Verify
there is no binding or rough spots. When rotated
counterclockwise, the clutch should lock to the
shaft without slipping. If problems are noted in
either direction, continue with disassembly.
DRIVE CLUTCH INSPECTION
Special Tool NOTE: Remove cover, spring, and
spider following instructions for drive clutch removal,
then proceed as follows:
1. Remove moveable sheave spacer sleeve and the
thrust washer. Visually inspect the washer for
damage. Measure the thickness and compare to
specification. Replace if worn or damaged.
CLUTCH
6.14
Thrust Washer Thickness
Standard: .030″(.76mm)
Service Limit: .025″(.64mm)
2. Lift one-way clutch off shaft. Replace as an
assembly if worn, damaged, or if problems were
noted.
3. Inspect surface of shaft for pitting, grooves, or
damage. Measure the outside diameter and
compare to specifications. Replace the drive
clutch assembly if shaft is worn or damaged.
Shaft Diameter
Standard: 1.3745″- 1.375″
Service Limit: 1.3730″
4. Remove21/2″PTFE washer from shaft. Visually
inspect the washer for damage. Measure the
thickness and compare to specification. Replace
if worn or damaged.
PTFE Washer Thickness
Standard: .030″(.76mm)
Service Limit: .025″(.64mm)
MOVEABLE SHEAVE
BUSHING INSPECTION
1. Inspect the Teflontcoating on the moveable
sheave bushing. Inspect BOTH sheaves for signs
of wear, grooving or cracking. Clean surfaces with
a3Mtpad if needed
Moveable Sheave Bushing Inspection:
Replace the cover bushing if more
brass than Teflontis visible on the
bushing. Refer to bushing replacement
in this chapter.
CLUTCH
6.15
DRIVE CLUTCH REASSEMBLY
Special Tool NOTE: It is important that the same
number and thickness of washers are reinstalled
beneath the spider during assembly. The Teflon
bushings are self-lubricating. Do not apply oil or
grease to the bushings.
1. Reassemble drive clutch in the following
sequence. Be sure the “X”, or the marks that were
made earlier, are aligned during each phase of
assembly.
a) “X”, or the marks that were made earlier on
cover
b) X on spider, making sure spacer washers
are installed underneath spider and
positioned properly in recess.
c) “X”, or the marks that were made earlier
under weight
DRIVE CLUTCH REASSEMBLY CONT’D
2. Install moveable sheave onto fixed sheave.
3. Install spider spacers. Use same quantity and
thickness as were removed.
4. Compress spider buttons for each tower and
install spider, making sure that “X”, or the marks
that were made earlier, on spider aligns with “X”,
or the marks that were made earlier on the
moveable sheave.
5. Torque spider to specification using the holding
fixture and spider tool. Torque with smooth
motion to avoid damage to the stationary sheave.
Refer to Page 6.3 for torque specification.
CAUTION:
Be sure the spider spacer washers are fully seated in
the recessed area of the spider. Any misalignment will
alter clutch balance. Inverting the clutch while initially
tightening the spider will help position the washers.
Spacer washers
6. Install limiter nut on top of spider using the Clutch
Spider Nut Socket (PN 2870338). Torque to 15 ft.
lbs. Reinstall shift weights using new lock nuts on
the bolts.
7. Reinstall clutch spring.
Engine
Rotation
Nut on trailing side
CLUTCH
6.16
8. Reinstall cover, aligning bosses on the tower and
cover. Torque cover bolts evenly to specification
Spider Torque:
200 ft. lbs. (271 Nm)
Cover Screw Torque:
90 in. lbs. (10.4 Nm)
DRIVE BELT
REMOVAL/INSPECTION
1. Remove outer PVT cover as described in PVT
Disassembly.
2. Mark drive belt direction of rotation so that it can
be installed in the same direction. NOTE:
Normally positioned so part numbers are easily
read.
3. To remove drive belt, apply brake, pull upward
and rearward on belt to open driven clutch
sheaves, pull out and down on belt to slip over the
driven clutch outer sheave.
Special Tool NOTE: When reinstalling the belt with
the drive clutch and driven clutch already removed
follow these steps:
GInstall the driven clutch.
GInstall the belt onto the driven clutch.
GLoop the drive clutch through the
belt.
GInstall the drive clutch onto the
crankshaft.
4. Measure belt width and replace if worn.
Generally, belts should be replaced if clutches
can no longer be adjusted to provide proper belt
deflection.
GThe top edges have been trimmed on
some drive belts. It will be necessary
to project the side profiles and
measure from corner to corner.
GPlace a straight edge on each side of
the drive belt.
CLUTCH
6.17
GPlace another straight edge on top of
belt.
GMeasure the distance where the side
straight edges intersect the top, as
shown in the illustration.
Projected Belt
Width
Belt Width:
New 1.174 - 1.188″(2.98-3.02 cm)
Wear Limit 1.125″(2.86 cm)
5. Inspect belt for loosecords, missing cogs, cracks,
abrasions, thin spots, or excessive wear.
Replace if necessary.
6. Inspect belt for hour glassing (extreme circular
wear in at least one spot and on both sides of the
belt). Hour glassing occurs when the drive train
does not move and the drive clutch engages the
belt continuously in one spot.
7. Measure belt length with a tape measure around
the outer circumference of the belt. Belts which
measure longer than nominal length may require
driven shimming or engine adjustment for a
longer center distance to obtain proper belt
deflection. Belts which measure shorter than
nominal length may require driven shimming or a
shorter center distance. Remember, proper belt
deflection is the desired goal -- not a specific
center distance.
8. Replace belt if worn past the service limit. Belts
with thin spots, burn marks, etc., should be
replaced to eliminate noise, vibration, or erratic
PVT operation. See Troubleshooting Chart at the
end of this chapter for possible causes.
Center
Distance
Clutch Center Distance -
10″+.1 / -.05 (254 +2.5 / -1.3mm)
Belt Nominal Length - 40.875″± 3/16
(103.8 cm ±.48 cm)
DRIVE BELT INSTALLATION
Special Tool NOTE:Be sure to position belt so part
number is easily read. Verfiy new belt is seated
properly in the clutches before operating the ATV.
1. Loop belt over drive and over top of driven
sheave.
2. While pushing down on top of belt, turn the back
or moveable driven sheave clockwise.
3. The belt then should be able to be pushed down
into and between the sheaves.
4. Install clutch cover temporarily. Verify engine is in
PARK. Start engine and raise engine RPM
enough to engage the clutch, rotating the belt and
seating it in the clutches. Remove clutch cover
and verify belt is seated properly before final
cover installation.
CLUTCH
6.18
CLUTCH ALIGNMENT
1. Remove belt and install the Clutch Offset
Alignment Tool (PN 2872292) as shown.
1/8I+0 / -- 1/16
3.2mm +0 / -- 1.6 mm)
Offset Alignment Tool
(PN 2872292) - EBS
B
A
2. With tool touching rear of driven clutch inner
sheave, the distance at point “A” should be 1/8″.
Special Tool NOTE:If the distance is greater than
1/8″or less than 1/16″, clutch alignment must be
adjusted as follows:
3. Remove drive and driven clutch. See PVT
Disassembly, Pages 6.7--6.8.
4. Remove PVT inner cover.
5. Loosen all engine mounts. Move front of engine
to the right or left slightly until alignment is correct.
6. Tighten engine mounts and verify alignment is
correct.
7. Measure belt deflection and measure offset both
above and below shaft centerlines. Adjust if
necessary.
Center line
Measure offset above and below
centerline
Special Tool NOTE: On some models, minor
adjustments can be made by adding shims between
the frame and front lower left engine mount to
increase the distance at point “A”. If a shim is present,
it can be removed to decrease the distance at point
“A”.
Shim Kit (PN 2200126)
CLUTCH OFFSET
Important: Inspect clutch alignment and center
distance before adjusting offset.
Offset is correct when rear of tool contacts rear of
inner sheave with driven clutch pushed completely
inward on shaft and bolt torqued. Adjust offset by
adding or removing spacer washers between back of
driven clutch and spacer.
Spacer Washer (PN 7556401)
1. Install offset alignment tool as shown. Remember
to measure above and below the shaft
centerlines.
Offset Alignment Tool
should contact rear edge
of driven clutch sheave
Driven Clutch Offset
To adjust, add or remove
washers from behind the
driven clutch
CLUTCH
6.19
EBS DRIVE CLUTCH
BUSHING SERVICE
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIREMENTS -- EBS
CLUTCH BUSHING REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION
Tool Kit PN 2201379 -- contents of this kit include:
Item Qty Part Description Part No
A/B 1 EBS Puller Tool 5132027
C 1 EBS Puller Nut 5132501
D 1 EBS Main Adapter 5132029
E 1 EBS Bushing 5132028
Removal Tool
1 Instructions 9915111
Also required:
Bushing Replacement Kit (PN 2871226)
Piston Pin Puller (PN 2870386)
OPTIONAL KIT -- PN 2871025 -- Includes the
above listed tools and is for all clutches.
Special Tool NOTE: Sportsman 800 EFI Drive
Clutch requires Bushing Removal Tool
PA--47336. Order from Polaris tool supplier SPX
1--800--328--6657.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS
Special Tool NOTE: Bushings are installed at the
factory using Loctitet609. In order to remove
bushings it will be necessary to apply heat evenly to
the area around each bushing. Clean all residual
Loctite from bushing bore prior to installing new
bushing.
EBS Drive Clutch Moveable Sheave
Bushing Removal
1. Remove clutch as outlined previously in this
chapter.
2. Install handle end of Piston Pin Puller (PN
2870386) securely into bench vise and lightly
grease puller threads.
3. Remove nut from puller rod and set aside.
4. Install puller adapter (Item 10 from kit PN
2871226).
5. Install main adapter (Item D) onto puller.
Puller Adapter (10)
Main Adapter
(D)
Puller Tool (A/B)
Side “A” toward
sheave
Piston Pin
Puller
Nut (C)
6. With towers pointing toward the vise, slide sheave
onto puller rod.
7. Install removal tool (Item A/B) into center of
sheave with “A side” toward sheave. 800 EFI
Clutch -- Use Bushing Tool PA--47336.
8. Install nut (C) onto end of puller rod and hand
tighten. Turn puller barrel to increase tension on
sheave if needed. Using a hand held propane
torch, apply heat around outside of bushing until
tiny smoke tailings appear.
9. Turn sheave counterclockwise on puller rod until it
comes free. Lift sheave off puller.
10. Remove nut from puller rod and set aside.
11. Pull bushing removal tool and adapter from puller
rod. Remove bushing from tool and discard.
CLUTCH
6.20
EBS Drive Moveable Bushing Installation
1. Place main adapter (Item 8) on puller.
Main Adapter
(8) Piston Pin
Puller
Nut (C)
Bushing
EBS Drive Clutch Moveable Sheave
Bushing Installation
Puller Tool (A/B)
Side “A” toward
sheave
2. Apply Loctitet609 evenly to bushing bore inside
moveable sheave.
3. Set bushing in place on sheave.
4. Insert installation puller tool (Item A/B) with “A”
side down, into center of bushing. 800 EFI
Clutch -- Use Bushing Tool PA--47336.
5. With towers pointing upward, slide sheave,
bushing and tool onto puller rod.
6. Install nut on puller rod and hand tighten. Turn
barrel to apply additional tension if needed.
7. Turn sheave counterclockwise, making sure
bushing is drawn straight into bore. Continue until
bushing is seated.
8. Remove nut from puller rod and set aside.
9. Remove sheave from puller.
10. Remove installation tool.
EBS Drive Clutch Cover Bushing Removal
1. Install main adapter (Item 8) on puller.
Main Adapter
(8)
Removal Tool (3)
Piston Pin
Puller
Nut (C)
Adapter
Reducer (9)
EBS Drive Clutch Cover Bushing Removal
2. Install adapter reducer (Item 9).
3. From outside of clutch cover, insert removal tool
(Item 3) into cover bushing.
4. With inside of cover toward vise, slide cover onto
puller.
5. Install nut onto puller rod and hand tighten. Turn
puller barrel to increase tension as needed.
6. Turn clutch cover counterclockwise on puller rod
until bushing is removed and cover comes free.
7. Remove nut from puller rod and set aside.
8. Remove bushing and bushing removal tool from
puller. Discard bushing.
EBS Drive Clutch Cover Bushing Installation
1. Apply Loctitet609 evenly to bushing bore in
cover.
2. Working from inside of cover, insert new bushing
and bushing installation tool into center of clutch
cover.
3. With main adapter on puller, insert cover onto
puller rod, placing outside of cover toward vise.
4. Install nut on rod and hand tighten. Turn puller
barrel to apply more tension if needed.
5. Turn clutch cover counterclockwise on puller rod
until bushing is seated.
6. Remove nut from puller rod. Take installation tool
and clutch cover off rod.
CLUTCH
6.21
EBS DRIVEN CLUTCH
DISASSEMBLY/INSPECTION -
EBS Driven Clutch Operation
This EBS driven clutch provides the same engine
braking abilities as the earlier EBS driven clutch.
One--way Clutch
Drive Clutch
Belt Rotation
Downhill
Drive
Driven
When the ATV is moving downhill the drive train turns
the driven clutch, belt, and one way clutch in the
direction of engine rotation. When the one--way
clutch (see exploded view of drive clutch) exceeds the
drive clutch rotational speed, the one--way clutch
locks to the drive clutch shaft and engine braking
occurs. Essentially the driven clutch has become the
“driving” clutch. The spider assembly with the two
rollers, that is fixed to the transmission shaft rotates
in the pockets of the sheave, allowing the stationary
sheave to rotate with the moveable sheave as the
rollers move to the other side of the ramp, providing
instant EBS braking. Engine braking (EBS) continues
until the drive clutch speed exceeds the one--way
clutch speed, or until the throttle is applied and the
engine reaches clutch engagement speed, lifting the
belt off of the one--way clutch.
CAUTION: The driven clutch must be
disassembled from the helix end to reducespring
pressure. Review all information below before
proceeding.
DRIVEN DISASSEMBLY/ASSEMBLY
1. Remove driven clutch from the transmission input
shaft. Do not attempt disassembly of the driven
clutch from the outside snap ring. The driven
clutch must be disassembled from the helix side.
Do not disassemble from this side
2. It is important to mark the position of the shaft,
cam cover, and sheave before disassembly or
use the “X”s on the components for reference.
This will aid in reassembly and helps to maintain
clutch balance after reassembly.
Mark Components Before Disassembly
3. Remove the four torx screws that secure the cam
assembly (helix) using a T25 torx.
4. Place the driven assembly into the Clutch Holding
Tool (PU--47086). Install the compression
CLUTCH
6.22
cylinder of the holding tool on top of the spider
assembly and retaining ring. Install the clutch
holding tool handle and slowly compress the
spider onto the shaft. Push helix inward. Remove
snap ring (A).
A
5. Remove the spider assembly, spring (B), and
spacer washer (C). NOTE: The spring is a
compression spring only and has no torsional
wind
B
C
SPIDER DISASSEMBLY
6. Remove the inside spider plate (D) and spider
dampener (E). Inspect the spider dampener (E)
for wear and replaced if needed.
ED
7. Remove the E--clip (F), washer (G), and the
clutch rollers (H). Inspect the rollers for wear
replace if worn.
F
G
H
8. Remove the clutch assembly from the holding
tool. Remove the large outer retaining ring (I) and
the inner retaing ring (J).
I
J
CLUTCH
6.23
CLUTCH ROLLER REMOVAL
9. Press out the spring pins (K) in the inner sheave.
10. Pull out the clutch roller pins (L) and rollers (M).
K
LM
K
11. Press the shaft and bearing out of the outer
sheave using a press.
Press Shaft/Bearing Out
Inspect Bearing
12. Inspect the bearing for wear. Spin the bearing, if
the bearing does not spin smoothly replace as
needed. To remove the bearing, simply press the
bearing from the shaft.
13. Inspect BOTH sheaves for signs of wear,
grooving or cracking. Clean surfaces with a 3Mt
pad if needed
Inspect Sheave Surface
14. Inspect the cam assembly (helix) bushing for
wear. If the bushing is worn or the shaft does not
fit snug into the bushing, replace the cam
assembly (cover).
Inspect Bushing
CLUTCH
6.24
EBS DRIVEN CLUTCH
REASSEMBLY
1. Press the bearing onto the output shaft using a
press.
2. Install the shaft/bearing into the outer sheave.
3. Install the small and large retaining rings into the
outer sheave above the bearing.
4. Line up the “X” ont the moveable sheave with the
“X” on the stationary sheave or use the marks
previously used. Put the sheaves together.
Align X’s
5. Install the roller (A) onto the roller pin (B). (Both
Sides)
A
B
CLUTCH
6.25
6. Install the roller pin into the sheave assembly.
(Both sides). The flat side of the roller pin faces
downward when the shaft side is laying flat on the
bench.
Flat Side of Roller
Downward
7. Install the spring pins (C) to secure the roller pins.
Install until flush with sheave surface.
C
8. Install the spacer washer.
Install Spacer
Washer
9. Install the spring over the shaft.
Install Spring
10. Install the clutch rollers (D) onto each side of the
outside spider. Install the washers (E) and
E--clips (F) to secure the rollers. Spin the roller,
the rollers should spin freely.
11. Install the spider dampener (G) inside the outer
spider and install the inside spider plate (H).
D
EF
Outer Spider
G
H
12. Install the clutch assembly into the Clutch Holding
Tool (PU--47086). Install the spider assembly
onto the shaft with the retaining ring on top of the
spider. NOTE: Use the marks previously made to
align the skip tooth spider, or use the “X” on top of
the spider and aling it with the skip tooth on the
shaft.
Align marks
CLUTCH
6.26
13. Install the compression cylinder of the holding tool
on top of the spider assembly and retaining ring.
Install the clutch holding tool handle and slowly
compress the spider onto the shaft. Align the
marks on the spider with the skip tooth on the
shaft.
PU--47086 Clutch
Compression Tool
14. Slowly compress the spider into place. If the
spider appears to bind while compressing, stop
and make sure the skip tooth on the shaft and the
spider are aligned. Once the spider passes the
retaining ring notch on the shaft, install the
retaining ring.
Retaining Ring
15. Install the cam assembly (helix) over the shaft.
Line up the “X” on the cam, “X” on spider, and “X”
on the stationary sheave or use the marks
previously made before disassembly. NOTE: If
the cam assembly (helix) is difficult to install, be
sure the sheaves are aligned. To align the
sheaves place the clutch assembly on a flat
surface with the cam assembly (helix) side down.
Press down on the moveable sheave belt face
with both hands and the helix will release.
Press Down to
Loosen Helix
16. Use a T25 torx to install the four torx screws and
torque to 42--52 in. lbs. (4.75 -- 5.88 Nm) in a star
pattern.
Torque: 42--52 in. lbs.
(4.75--5.88 Nm)
CLUTCH
6.27
EBS DRIVEN CLUTCH EXPLODED VIEW
1. Torx Screw
2. Cam Assembly
3. Retaining Ring
4. E--clip
5. Washer
6. Roller
7. Outer Spider
8. Spring
9. Shaft
10. Thrust Washer
11. Moveable Sheave
12. Roller Pin
13. Spring Pin
14. Stationary Sheave
15. Bearing
16. Retaining Ring
17. Retaining Ring
18. Inner Spider Plate
19. Spider Dampener
20. Clutch Roller
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
CLUTCH
6.28
TROUBLESHOOTING
Situation Probable Cause Remedy
Engine RPM
below specified
operating range
although engine
is properly
tuned.
-Wrong or broken drive clutch spring.
-Drive clutch shift weight too heavy.
-Drivenclutchspringbrokenorinstalled
wrong .
-Replace with recommended spring.
-Install correct shift weight kit to match engine application.
-Replace spring; refer to proper installation location.
Erratic engine
operating RPM
during accelera-
tion or load vari-
ations.
-Drive clutch binding.
-Belt worn unevenly - thin/burnt spots
-Driven clutch malfunction.
-Sheave face grooved.
a. Disassemble drive clutch; inspect shift weights for wear
and free operation.
b. Clean and polish stationary shaft hub; reassemble clutch
without spring to determine problem area.
Replace belt
a. Replace ramp buttons.
b. Inspect movable sheave for excessive bushing clearance/
replace.
-Replace the clutch.
Engine RPM
above specified
operating
range.
-Incorrectdriveclutchspring(toohigh
spring rate).
-Drive clutch shift weights incorrect for ap-
plication (too light).
-Drive clutch binding.
-Driven clutch binding.
-Converter sheaves greasy; belt slippage.
-Install correct recommended spring.
-Install correct recommended shift weights.
-Disassemble and clean clutch, inspecting shift weights and
rollers. Reassemble without the spring and move sheaves
through entire range to further determine probable cause.
-Disassemble, clean, and inspect driven clutch, noting worn
sheave bushing and ramp buttons and helix spring location.
-Clean sheaves with denatured alcohol or brake cleaner,
install new belt.
Harsh drive
clutch engage-
ment.
-Drive belt worn too narrow.
-Excessive belt/sheave clearance with new
belt.
-Replace belt.
-Perform belt/sheave clearance adjustment with shim wash-
ers beneath spider.
Drive belt turns
over -Wrong belt for application.
-Clutch alignment out of spec.
-Engine mount broken or loose.
-Replace with correct belt.
-Adjust alignment offset.
-Inspect/adjust or replace.
PVT cover
overheating
(melting)
-Plugged air intake or outlet
-Belt slippage due to water, oil, grease,
etc., rubbing on cover
-Clutches or weight being applied to cover
while in operation
-Use of High vs. low range
-Clear obstruction.
-Inspect system. Clean , repair or replace as necessary.
Seal PVT system ducts.
-Remove weight. Inform operator.
-Instruct operator on guidelines for operation in proper driving
range for different terrain as outlined in Owner’s Safety and
Maintenance Manual.
Water ingestion -Cover seals or ducts leaking
-Operator error
-Find leak and repair as necessary.
-Instruct operator on guidelines for operation in wet terrain as
outlined in Owner’s Safety and Maintenance Manual.
CLUTCH
6.29
Belt slippage -Belt worn out
-Water ingestion
-Belt contaminated with oil or grease
-Replace belt.
-Inspect and seal PVT system.
-Inspect and clean.
Belt burnt, thin
spots -Abuse (continued throttle application when
vehicle is stationary, excess load)
-Dragging brake
-Slow, easy clutch engagement
-Caution operator to operate machine within guidelines.
-Vehicle operated with park brake on. Inspect brake system.
-Instruct firm, effective use of throttle for efficient engage-
ment.
PVT noise -Belt worn or separated, thin spots, loose
belt
-Broken or worn clutch components, cover
hitting clutches
-Replace belt.
-Inspect and repair as necessary.
Engagement
erratic or stabby -Thin spots on belt, worn belt
-Drive clutch bushings stick
-Replace belt. Refer to belt burnt troubleshooting and instruct
operator.
-Inspect and repair clutches.
CLUTCH
6.30
NOTES
FINAL DRIVE
7.1
Final Drive Torque Specifications 7.1.....
AWD Front Axle Remove/Install 7.2-7.3......
AWD Front CV Joint Boot Replace. 7.4-7.5...
AWD Front Drive Axle Exploded View 7.15.
Front Hub Disass./Assemble 7.5.........
AWD Front Prop Shaft Removal 7.6......
U-Joint Disassemble/Assemble 7.6--7.7......
Drive Axle / Propshaft Exploded View 7.8.
AWD Front Gearcase Operation 7.9.....
AWD Front Gearcase Service 7.9--7.17........
Rear Hub Remove/Install 7.19--7.20...........
Rear Hub Disassembly/Assembly 7.21--7.22....
Rear Drive Shaft Removal 7.22...........
Driveshaft / CV Joint Tips 7.22..........
Rear Driveshaft Installation 7.23..........
Rear Driveshaft Service 7.24--7.26.............
Rear Gearcase Service 7.26--7.30.............
FINAL DRIVE
7.2
WHEEL AND HUB TORQUE
TABLE
COMPONENT FT. LBS.
(IN.LBS.)
NM
F/R Steel Wheel Nuts 30 41
F/R Aluminum Wheel Nuts 90 122
Front Hub Nut 70 95
Rear Hub Nut 80 109
CAUTION: Locking nuts, and bolts with preapplied
locking agent should be replaced if removed. The
self-locking properties of the nut or bolt are reduced
or destroyed during removal.
SPECIAL TOOLS
PART NUMBER TOOL
DESCRIPTION
2872608 Roller Pin
Removal Tool
8700226 CV Boot Clamp
Pliers
2870772 1 3/4” Straight
Wrench
FRONT DRIVE AXLE
REMOVAL
1. Set the ATV in park. Remove hub dust cap.
2. Remove cotter pin.
3. Loosen the hub retaining nut.
4. Loosen - but do not remove - the wheel nuts.
5. Safely lift and support the front of the ATV.
CAUTION:
Seriousinjurycould occurif machine tips orfalls.
6. Remove wheel.
7. Remove the two brake caliper attaching bolts.
CAUTION: Do not hang the caliper by the brake
line. Use wire to hang the caliper to prevent
possible damage to the brake line.
8. Remove hub.
9. Remove cotter pin and nut from lower A-arm ball
joint. Remove lower A-arm from ball joint.
10. Pull strut assembly out while pivoting front drive
shaft downward until it clears strut assembly.
FINAL DRIVE
7.3
11. With short, sharp jerks, remove drive shaft from
front gearcase.
FRONT DRIVE AXLE
INSTALLATION
1. Install new spring ring on drive shaft. Apply an
anti--seize compound to splines. Align splines of
drive shaft with front gearcase and install by
lightly tapping on drive shaft with rubber faced
hammer.
2. Install drive shaft in strut.
3. Install lower ball joint, torque nut to 25 ft. lbs. (34.5
Nm) and install new cotter pin.
4. Install hub and tighten hub nut to 70 ft. lbs. (95
Nm).
New Cotter Key
Front Hub Retaining Nut Torque
70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm)
DRIVE SHAFT (CV) BOOT
INSPECTION
Check the front and rear driveshaft cv boots for any
tears or leaking grease. If the driveshaft boot loses all
of the grease cv joint failure will occur.
FINAL DRIVE
7.4
FRONT DRIVE SHAFT CV
JOINT BOOT REPLACEMENT
1. Remove wheel, brake caliper and wheel hub.
Refer to Front Drive Axle Removal Page 7.2 for
procedure.
2. Remove cotter pin and castle nut from A-arm ball
joint.
3. Disconnect A-arm from ball joint using a tie rod
fork.
4. Slide strut off end of drive shaft and tie it up out of
the way of the shaft.
5. Remove clamps from rubber boot using the
proper boot clamp pliers.
6. Remove the large end of the boot from the CV
joint, slide the boot back and separate the wheel
spindle and CV joint assembly from the axle shaft
by pulling the shaft sharply outward, away from
the CV joint. It may be necessary to tap the CV
joint assembly outward with a soft faced hammer.
Retaining ring
Pull shaft to remove from
CV joint
7. Remove small clamp and boot from driveshaft.
NOTE: If the ATV has been operated with a damaged
boot, the CV joint grease may be contaminated.
Inspect the grease carefully for contamination, and
clean the joint thoroughly if necessary. Front drive
axle CV boot replacement requires 3.5 oz. of grease.
8. Before installing the new boot, remove all grease
from the boot area and shaft.
NOTE: It is very important to use thecorrect type and
quantity of grease. Use only the grease contained in
the boot kit. DO NOT use a substitute grease and DO
NOT overfill or underfill the CV joint.
CV Joint Grease -3.5 oz. (Refer to
parts manual for boot kit)
CV Boot Clamp Pliers:
Earless Type (PN 8700226)
Boot replacement with complete CV
joint cleaning requires the entire 3.5 oz.
of grease.
9. Slide the new clamp and boot (small end first)
over the splined shaft, then slide (tap) the CV joint
into the splines of the axle.
10. Add grease through large end of boot.
11. Install a new boot onto the axle shaft and fill the
CV joint and boot with the correct type and
amount of grease.
12. While pulling out on the CV shaft, fully extend the
CV joint and slide a straight O-ring pick or a small
slotted screw driver between the small end of the
boot and the shaft. This will allow the air pressure
to equalize in the CV boot in the position that the
joint will spend most of its life. Before you remove
your instrument, be sure the small end of the boot
is in its correct location on the axle. CARE MUST
FINAL DRIVE
7.5
BE TAKEN TO AVOID DAMAGE TO THE
NEWLY INSTALLED BOOT.
13. Install the small clamp on the boot.
3.5 oz.
3.5 oz.
Front Shaft
FRONT HUB DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove outer snap ring.
2. From the back side, tap on the outer bearing race
with a drift punch in the reliefs as shown.
NOTE: Drive bearing out evenly by tapping on outer
race only. Once bearing is at bottom of casting,
support casting on outer edges so bearing can be
removed.
3. Inspect the bearing.
NOTE: Due to extremely close tolerances and
minimal wear, the bearings must be inspected
visually, and by feel. While rotating bearings by hand,
inspect for rough spots, discoloration, or corrosion.
The bearings should turn smoothly and quietly, with
no detectable up and down movement and minimal
movement sideways between inner and outer race.
4. Inspect bearing housing for scratches, wear or
damage. Replace housing if damaged.
FRONT HUB ASSEMBLY
1. Support bottom of hubstrut housing.
2. Start bearing in housing.
3. Press bearing into place until outer race bottoms
on housing.
CAUTION:
When using an arbor press be sure to press only on
the outer race, as bearing damage may occur.
4. Install snap ring into groove.
FINAL DRIVE
7.6
FRONT PROP SHAFT
REMOVAL
1. Using Roll Pin Removal Tool (PN 2872608),
remove the roll pin from prop shaft at rear of
housing. Slide prop shaft back and away from
front housing. Pull sharply forward to remove
from transmission shaft.
Roll Pin Remover Tool (PN 2872608)
NOTE: If removing front housing, use roll pin
removal tool to remove the pins from both front drive
axles.
U-JOINT DISASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Always wear eye protection.
1. Remove internal or external snap ring from all
bearing caps.
NOTE: If yoke or bearing is removed, cross bearing
must be replaced. Note orientation of grease fitting
and mark inner and outer yoke for correct
re-positioning during installation.
2. Support inner yoke as shown and drive outer yoke
down (bearing cap out) with a soft face hammer.
3. Support U-joint in vise as shown and drive inner
yoke down to remove remaining bearing caps.
FINAL DRIVE
7.7
4. Force U-joint cross to one side and lift out of inner
yoke.
U-JOINT ASSEMBLY
1. Install new bearing caps in yoke by hand.
Carefully install U-joint cross with grease fitting
properly positioned inward toward center of shaft.
Take care not to dislodge needle bearings upon
installation of cross joint. Tighten vise to force
bearing caps in.
2. Using a suitable arbor, fully seat bearing cap in
one side. Continually check for free movement of
bearing cross as bearing caps are assembled.
3. Install snap ring to contain bearing cap just
installed. Repeat procedure for other side.
4. Install outer yoke, aligning marks made before
disassembly.
5. Repeat Steps 1-3 to install bearing caps on outer
yoke.
6. Seat all bearing caps against snap rings by
supporting cross shaft and tapping on each
corner as shown.
7. When installation is complete, yokes must pivot
freely in all directions without binding. If the joint is
stiff or binding, tap the yoke lightly to center the
joint until it pivots freely in all directions.
Clamp
Circlip Outer CV Joint
Front Drive Axle Components
Front Prop Shaft Components
O-Ring
Yoke, Propshaft to Transmission
Prop Shaft
Cross and Bearing Kit
Yoke, Front Gearcase
Propshaft Assembly
Inner CV Joint Circlip Circlip
Inner Boot Outer Boot
Front Drive Boot Replacement Kits
Outer Clamp
Boot
Inner Clamp 3.5 oz. Grease
3.5 oz.
NOTE: Refer to your parts manual for the proper replacement parts.
Rear Prop Shaft Components
Yoke, Propshaft to Transmission
Prop Shaft
Yoke, Rear Gear case
FINAL DRIVE
7.8
AWD FRONT DRIVE AXLE EXPLODED VIEW
FINAL DRIVE
7.9
FRONT GEARCASE
OPERATION -- CENTRALIZED
HILLIARD)
Engaging Front Gearcase: The AWD switch may
be turned on or off while the vehicle is moving. Initially,
the vehicle’s electronic system will not enable the
AWD until the engine RPM is below 3100. Once
enabled, the AWD remains while the front gearcase
is moving, it will not disengage until the rear wheels
regain traction.
Engage the AWD switch before getting into conditions
where the front wheel drive may be needed. If the rear
wheels are spinning , release the throttle before
switching to AWD.
CAUTION: Switching to AWD while the rear wheels
are spinning may cause severe drive shaft and
gearcase damage. Always switch to AWD while the
rear wheels have traction or are at rest.
Normal Operation: With the AWD switch off the
vehicle drives only the rear wheels (2 wheel drive).
When the AWD switch is activated it engages the
Hilliard, locking both front axles into All Wheel Drive.
Coil Cover
Output
Hub
Armature
Plate
Roller Cage
4x4 Engagement: When the AWD switch is
activated, a 12 VDC current charges the central coil
which creates a magnetic field. This magnetic field
attracts an armature plate keyed to a roller cage that
contains 14 rollers and roller cam. The difference in
rpm by input shaft and front axles the forces the rollers
up the external cam. The rollers engage themselves
to the output hubs that link both front axles, resulting
in True All Wheel Drive.
CAUTION: If the rear wheels are spinning, release
the throttle before turning the AWD switch on. If AWD
is engaged while the wheels are spinning, severe
drive shaft and clutch damage could result.
Roller Cage
& Bearings
Output
Hub
Roller Cage and Roller’s Rotate Inward and
Grip the Output Hub for AWD Engagement
Rollers
Disengagement: As the front and rear wheels gain
traction, rotating very close to the same speed, the
front wheels “overdrive” the output hubs and the
rollers are forced outward, disengaging the AWD.
The vehicle is now back to rear wheel drive until the
next loss of traction.
FRONT GEARCASE
REMOVAL
1. Stop engine, place machine in Park and set
parking brake.
2. Loosen right front wheel nuts slightly.
3. Elevate and support machine under
footrest/frame area.
CAUTION: Serious injury may result if machine tips
or falls. Be sure machine is secure before beginning
this service procedure. Wear eye protection when
removing and installing bearings and seals.
4. Remove right wheel nuts and wheel.
5. Remove the front brake caliper and suspend the
safely suspend the brake caliper from the frame
FINAL DRIVE
7.10
with a piece of wire.
CAUTION: Do not hang the caliper by the brake line.
Use wire to hang the caliper to prevent possible
damage to the brake line.
6. Remove the front hub from the drive shaft.
7. Remove cotter pin, lower ball joint nut and A-arm
from ball joint.
8. Pull the hub and strut assembly out and pull the
drive--shaft out of the hub.
9. Pull both driveshafts from the front gearcase.
Replace the circlip on the driveshaft end for
reassembly.
10. Remove the roller pin from the front prop shaft.
Use the Roller Pin Removal Tool (PN 2872608).
11. Remove bolts securing bottom of housing to
frame. Bolts are accessible through the skid
plate. Remove vent line. Remove the front
gearcase from right side of frame.
Remove4Bolts
Front Gearcase Removal
FRONT GEARCASE
DISASSEMBLY/INSPECTION
1. Drain and properly dispose of used oil. Remove
any metal particles from the drain plug magnet.
2. Remove bolts and output shaft cover.
Front Gearcase Coil Resistance:
22.8--25.2 Ohms
FINAL DRIVE
7.11
Gearcase Coil Resistance
NOTE: To test the gearcase coils resistance, use the
coil harness. The gearcase coils should measure
between 22.8 ohms and 25.2 ohms.
3. Remove output shaft assembly.
NOTE: Be careful not to misplace the thrust bearing
located between the two output shafts.
4. Clean all parts and inspect spacers for wear.
Inspect ring gear for chipped, broken, or missing
teeth.
5. Remove the roll cage assembly, rollers, and
H--springs.
6. Thoroughly clean all parts. Inspect the rollers (A)
for nicks and scratches. The rollers must slide up
and down freely within the roller cage surfaces
(B).
7. Inspect the ring gear (C) for consistent wear
patterns. The surfaces should be free of nicks
and scratches.
A
B
C
8. Inspect roll cage (B) sliding surface. This surface
must be clean and free of nicks, burrs or
scratches. Remove and inspect the H--springs.
B
H--spring
9. Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the
retaining clip from the output cover.
C
FINAL DRIVE
7.12
10. Remove the spacer washer (D), armature plate
(E), and rubber O--ring from the output cover.
D
E
O--ring
11. Inspect the armature plate (E) for a consistent
wear pattern. Uneven wear of the armature plate
(E) indicates a warped plate, which may cause
intermittent operation. NOTE: See “FRONT
GEARCASE DIAGNOSIS” later in this chapter for
more details.
E
12. Remove the output hub (G) from the cover.
Remove the thrust bearing (F) from the output
hub (G). Inspect the thrust bearing (F) and the
dowel (H).
G
F
H
13. Inspect the magnetic coil (I) in the output housing.
NOTE: See “FRONT GEARCASE DIAGNOSIS”
later in this chapter for more details on the coil.
14. Inspect the back lash pad (J) for excessive wear.
NOTE: The backlash for the centralized hilliard is set
at the factory. No adjustment is required, unless
the front cover needs to be replaced, or the back
lash pad screw is removed. See the “FRONT
GEARCASE ASSEMBLY” procedure later in this
chapter for details on backlash setting.
I
J
15. Remove the other output hub (K) from the main
gearcase. Inspect the inner bearing (L) for wear.
If there is excessive wear, replace bearing as
needed.
FINAL DRIVE
7.13
K
L
16. Remove the input cover (M), bearing (N), and the
pinion gear (O). Inspect the pinion gear (O) for
chipped, broken, or missing teeth. Replace the
input cover O--ring.
M
N
O
17. Inspect the output shaft bushing. Replace as
needed. Clean the inside surfaces of both
gearcase halves.
18. Remove and replace the O--rings and seals from
the assembly.
FRONT GEARCASE
REASSEMBLY/INSPECTION
1. Replace all O--rings, seals, and worn
components.
2. Press the pinion shaft seal into the pinion cover,
until the seal is flush with the sealing surface.
3. Inspect bearings on output and pinion shafts. To
replace, press new bearing on to shaft.
NOTE: Due to extremely close tolerances and
minimal wear, the bearings must be inspected
visually, and by feel. While rotating bearings by hand,
inspect for rough spots, discoloration, or corrosion.
The bearings should turn smoothly and quietly, with
no detectable up and down movement and minimal
movement side to side.
4. Install pinion shaft, bearing, and input cover with
new o-ring and torque bolts to 14 ft. lbs (19 Nm).
Input Cover Bolts Torque:
14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm)
FINAL DRIVE
7.14
5. Install the output hub (A) into the gearcase
housing. The output hub should spin freely.
A
6. Install the other output hub (B) and thrust bearing
(C) into the output cover. Apply a small amount of
grease onto the thrust bearing.
C
B
7. Install the armature plate (D) and spacer washer
(E) into the output cover. NOTE: Be sure
backlash plate in in place.
E
D
Backlash Plate
8. Install the retaining ring (F) into the output cover.
Be sure the retaining ring is properly seated into
the cover.
F
9. Install the ring gear onto the output hub on the
output cover.
G
10. Install the rollers and roll cage into the ring gear.
Insert the rollers as the roll cage is installed.
11. Install the output cover assembly onto the main
gearcase.
NOTE: Be sure armature plate tabs are placed into
the slots on roll cage. (See Reference Photo)
FINAL DRIVE
7.15
Photo for reference only!
Armature Plate Tabs Fit Into Rollcage Slots
NOTE: This photo is for reference only, the armature
plate is actually installed in the output cover.
12. Install output cover with new O-ring and torque
bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
NOTE: Be sure the square O--ring is placed flat on
the cover surface, if the O--ring is twisted fluid leakage
may occur.
Cover Bolts Torque
14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm)
13. Install new seals into the gearcase housing and
gearcase housing cover.
Back Lash Pad (Thrust Pad) Adjustment
14. Lay the gearcase on the side with the output cover
facing up.
15. The backlash screw is loctited into place. Use a
heat gun to lightly heat up the loctite on the screw
(1).
1
16. Using a hex wrench, turn the back--lash screw out
3--4 turns. Re--apply red loctite onto the bottom
screw threads.
17. Turn the screw in until it is lightly seated, then turn
the screw out 1/4 turn.
18. Set the gearcase upright. Rotate the pinion shaft
at least 4 times. This ensures the ring gear
completes one full rotation.
FINAL DRIVE
7.16
19. If a tight spot is felt during rotation, loosen the
backlash screw another 1/8 turn. Perform the
previous step again. Repeat this procedure until
the pinion shaft rotates smoothly 4 times (1
revolution of ring gear).
FRONT GEARCASE
DIAGNOSIS
Symptom: AWD Will Not Engage.
1. Check the gearcase coil resistance. To test the
gearcase coil resistance, use the coil harness
(Grey & Brown/White). The gearcase coils should
measure between 22.8 ohms and 25.2 ohms.
2. Check the minimum battery voltage at the wire
(Grey & Brown/White) that feeds the hub coil wire.
There should be a minimum of 11.80--12.0 Volts
present for proper operation.
3. Inspect the armature plate for a consistent wear
pattern. There should one or two distinct wear
bands (one band inside the other). If only one
band of wear is present (or if there is wear
between the two bands, inspect the coil area as
indicated in Step 4. A band with an interrupted
wear mark may indicate a warped plate, which
may cause intermittent operation. See Illustration
1.
Armature Plate
Check for wear bands
Possible
Wear Ring on
Armature Plate
OK Condition
Bad Condition
(Wear from Coil
On Armature Plate)
ILL. 1
4. Check to make sure the coil is seated in the
U--shaped insert that is pressed into the gearcase
cover. The top of the coil should be seated below
the U--shaped insert. The U--shaped insert
controls the pole gap. If the top of the coil is above
the surface of the U--shaped insert it raises the
armature plate, thereby increasing pole gap. If
the pole gap increases the coil will not be strong
enough to engage the AWD system. If this is the
cause order a new Plate Cover Assembly (PN
FINAL DRIVE
7.17
3233952).
U--shaped insert
Coil
Gearcase Cover
Side Cutaway View of Centralized Hilliard Cover
5. Inspect the rollers for nics and scratches. The
rollers must slide up and down and in and out
freely within the roll cage sliding surfaces.
Rollers
FRONT HOUSING
INSTALLATION
1. To install gearcase, reverse removal procedure.
Use new spring pin in front prop shaft.
2. Torque mounting bolts to 30 ft.lbs. (41 Nm).
30 ft.lbs. (41 Nm)
New Roller Pin
3. Add the proper lubricant to the front gearcase.
Check drain plug for proper torque. Refer to
Chapter 2 for fluid fill and change information.
Premium Front Hub Fluid
(PN 2871654)
Front Housing Capacity
5.0 fl. oz. (148 ml)
Front Housing Mount Bolt Toque:
30 ft.lbs. (41 Nm)
FINAL DRIVE
7.18
FRONT GEARCASE -- CENTRALIZED HILLIARD EXPLODED
VIEW
Ref. Qty. Description Ref. Qty. Description
1Asm., Mid Gearcase 20. 1O--Ring
1. 1Cover, Output 21. 1Seal
2. 1O--Ring 22. 11 Kit, Bolt
3. 1Insert 23. 1Cover, Input
4. 1Coil 24. 1Bearing, Roller Ball
5. 1Kit, Shim Set (Incl. Shims) 25. 1Shaft, Pinion, 11T
6. 2Bearing, Roller Ball 26. 1Bushing
7. 1Hub, Race/Output, Male 27. 1Gearcase, LH
8. 1Pin, Dowel 28. 2Seal, Oil
9. 1Dowel 29. 1Plug, Oil Fill
10. 1Clutch Housing/Ring Gear 30. 4N/A
11. 1Spring 31. 4N/A
12. 14 Kit, Roll 32. 1Plug, Oil Drain
13. 2Retaining Ring 33. 1Washer
14. 1Bushing 34. 1Bearing, Needle, Roller Thrust
15. 1Hub, Race/Output, Female 35. 1Roll Cage, Aluminum
16. 1Bushing 36. 1Plate Armature
17. 1Vent 37. 1Back Lash Plate
18. 1N/A
19. 1N/A
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
10
9
11
12
35
13
14
34
15
6
16
27
29
30
31
32
33 28
17
26
18
19
25
24
20
23
22
21
36
28
22
37
FINAL DRIVE
7.19
REAR HUB REMOVAL
1. Place the ATV in Park and lock the parking brake.
Remove rear hub cap.
2. Remove cotter pin.
3. Loosen the hub retaining nut.
4. Loosen the wheel nuts.
5. Safely support the rear of the ATV.
CAUTION:
Secure the machine. Serious injury could occur
if machine tips or falls.
6. Remove wheel nuts and wheel.
7. Remove the rear brake caliper and safely
suspend the caliper from the frame with a piece of
wire.
8. Remove hub nut, domed washer and flat washer.
9. Remove hub.
10. Remove upper control arm bolt as shown.
FINAL DRIVE
7.20
11. Remove both lower control arm bolts.
12. Remove bearing carrier.
REAR HUB INSTALLATION
1. Insert bearing carrier on drive shaft.
2. Align bottom of carrier housing and lower control
arm. Grease and slide lower control arm
bushings into place, securing corner housing.
Install upper and lower bolts
Lower Control Arm Bolt Torque:
40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
Upper Control Arm Bolt Torque:
35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm)
3. Install and torque both lower control arm bolts.
4. Lift bearing carrier until top aligns with upper
control arm. Install and torque upper control arm
bolt and torque to specification.
Rear Hub Nut Torque:
80 ft. lbs. (109 Nm)
Rear Wheel Nut Torque:
Refer to Page 7.2
5. Pull drive shaft outward and install hub onto
driveshaft splines.
6. Install cone washers with domed side facing
outward.
7. Install retainer nut, wheel and wheel nuts.
8. Remove jackstand and torque axle nut and wheel
nuts.
9. Install a new cotter pin. Tighten nut slightly to
align holes if required.
10. Install hub cap.
FINAL DRIVE
7.21
REAR HUB DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove outer snap ring.
2. From the back side, tap on the outer bearing race
with a drift punch in the reliefs as shown.
NOTE: Drive bearing out evenly by tapping on outer
race only. Once bearing is at bottom of casting,
support casting on outer edges so bearing can be
removed.
3. Inspect bearing.
NOTE: Due to extremely close tolerances and
minimal wear, the bearings must be inspected
visually, and by feel. While rotating bearings by hand,
inspect for rough spots, discoloration, or corrosion.
The bearings should turn smoothly and quietly, with
no detectable up and down movement and minimal
movement sideways between inner and outer race.
4. Inspect bearing housing for scratches, wear or
damage. Replace housing if damaged.
REAR HUB ASSEMBLY
1. Support bottom of bearing carrier housing.
2. Start bearing in housing.
3. Press bearing into place until outer race bottoms
on housing.
FINAL DRIVE
7.22
CAUTION:
Use an arbor press only on the outer race, as
bearing damage may occur.
4. Install snap ring into groove.
REAR DRIVE SHAFT
REMOVAL
1. Remove rear hub and bearing carrier. (See
Pages 7.19).
2. Tip hub outward and remove shaft from hub.
3. Pull sharply outward to remove shaft from
transmission. Install a new lock ring upon
assembly.
Pull outward sharply to re-
move from transmission
Lock ring
DRIVESHAFT AND CV JOINT
HANDLING TIPS
Care should be exercised during driveshaft removal
or when servicing CV joints. Driveshaft components
are precision parts.
Cleanliness and following these instructions is very
important to ensure proper shaft function and a
normal service life.
SThe complete driveshaft and joint
should be handled by getting hold of
the interconnecting shaft to avoid
disassembly or potential damage to
the driveshaft joints.
SOver-angling of joints beyond their
capacity could result in boot or joint
damage.
SMake sure surface-ground areas
and splines of shaft are protected
during handling to avoid damage.
SDo not allow boots to come into
contact with sharp edges or hot
engine and exhaust components.
SThe driveshaft is not to be used as a
lever arm to position other
suspension components.
SNever use a hammer or sharp tools
to remove or to install boot clamps.
SBe sure joints are thoroughly clean
and that the proper amount and type
of grease is used to refill when joint
boots are replaced and when joints
are cleaned. Refer to text for grease
capacity of CV joints and CV joint
boots.
FINAL DRIVE
7.23
REAR DRIVE SHAFT
INSTALLATION
1. Slide shaft assembly into bearing carrier hub.
2. Apply anti-seize compound to splines of shaft.
3. Install a new lock ring and install the shaft.
4. Lift bearing carrier into place and install bolt to
upper control arm. Torque bolt to 35 ft. lbs. (48
Nm).
5. Install hub, flat washer, domed washer (domed
side out) and nut. Torque center hub nut to 80 ft.
lbs. (109 Nm). Install new cotter pin and hub cap.
Rear Hub Nut Torque:
80 ft. lbs. (109 Nm)
6. Install rear wheel and torque wheel nuts to
specification.
Out
Cone
Washer
Cone
washer
dome to
outside
80 ft. lbs.
(109 Nm) Flat Washer
Rear Wheel Nut Torque:
Refer to Page 7.2
7. Grease all fittings thoroughly with Premium
U-Joint Lubricant (PN 2871551).
FINAL DRIVE
7.24
REAR DRIVE SHAFT
SERVICE
1. Remove clamps from rubber boot(s) using the CV
Boot Clamp Pliers (PN 8700226)(A).
A
2. NOTE: Photo below is shown without shaft for
clarity. Wipe grease away from recess in CV joint
inner hub to locate snap ring.
Snap ring located in
recessed area
Snap ring
3. Open the snap ring using a snap ring pliers or
small needle nose pliers. Tap CV housing off
shaft with a soft faced hammer while holding snap
ring open.
Tap CV Housing
Off Shaft
Spread ends of snap ring
to remove joint from shaft
4. Place a new snap ring in the groove of the CV joint
inner hub, with tabs facing the shaft as shown.
Tabs face shaft
FINAL DRIVE
7.25
5. Refit CV joint on interconnecting shaft by tapping
with a plastic hammer on the joint housing. Take
care not to damage threads on the outboard CV
joint. The joint is fully assembled when the snap
ring is located in the groove on the
interconnecting shaft.
Tap joint onto shaft
6. Install and tighten large boot clamp with boot
clamp pliers.
7. Remove excess grease from the CV joint’s
external surfaces and position joint boot over
housing, making sure boot is seated in groove.
Position clamp over boot end and make sure
clamp tabs are located in slots. Note: Before
tightening boot clamp on inboard joint, make sure
any air pressure which may have built up in joint
boot has been released. The air should be
released after the plunging joint has been
centered properly. Tighten boot clamp using boot
clamp pliers.
Open snap ring and pull
CV joint away from shaft
(Boot Replacement)
1. Remove CV joint from end of shaft.
2. Remove boot from shaft.
NOTE: When replacing a damaged boot, check the
grease for contamination by rubbing it between two
fingers. A gritty feeling indicates contamination. If
the grease is not contaminated, the boot can be
replaced without cleaning the CV joint. Use the
recommended amount of grease for boot
replacement only (see below). Proceed to Boot
Installation.
(CV JOINT CLEANING / REPLACEMENT)
3. Thoroughly clean and dry the CV joint and inspect
ball tracks and cages for wear, cracks or other
damage.
NOTE: Shiny areas in ball tracks and on the cage
spheres are normal. Do not replace CV joints because
parts have polished surfaces. Replace CV joint only
if components are cracked, broken, worn or otherwise
unserviceable.
4. Add the recommended amount of grease for CV
joint cleaning to the joint as shown below. Be
sure grease penetrates all parts of the joint.
FINAL DRIVE
7.26
(BOOT INSTALLATION)
5. Slide the new clamp and boot (small end first)
over the splined shaft, then slide (tap) the CV joint
into the splines of the axle.
6. Add grease through large end of boot.
7. Install a new boot onto the axle shaft and fill the
CV joint and boot with the correct type and
amount of grease.
8. While pulling out on the CV shaft, fully extend the
CV joint and slide a straight O-ring pick or a small
slotted screw driver between the small end of the
boot and the shaft. This will allow the air pressure
to equalize in the CV boot in the position that the
joint will spend most of its life. Before you remove
your instrument, be sure the small end of the boot
is in its correct location on the axle. CARE MUST
BE TAKEN TO AVOID DAMAGE TO THE
NEWLY INSTALLED BOOT.
9. Install the small clamp on the boot.
10. Be sure to use only the Constant Velocity Joint
grease supplied with boot service kit. IF CV
JOINT WAS CLEANED, add the recommended
amount of grease to the joint in addition to the
grease pack supplied with boot kit.
NOTE: CV Joint Grease Capacity:
Joint Capacity
50 Grams
Boot Capacity
30 Grams
Joint Capacity
50 Grams
Boot Capacity
50 Grams
INBOARD
100g Total
OUTBOARD
80g Total
CV Joint Grease - 30g PN 1350046
50g PN 1350047
Outboard joint - 30g if boot is replaced only. Another
50g (80 total) if joint is cleaned.
Inboard joint - 50g if boot is replaced only. Another
50g (100 total) if joint is cleaned.
REAR GEARCASE
DISASSEMBLY
1. Drain and properly dispose of used oil.
2. Remove the gearcase housing cover bolts and
the gearcase housing cover.
FINAL DRIVE
7.27
3. Remove the shim, thrust button, and thrust button
shim from the gearcase.
Thrust Button Shims
4. Remove rear bevel gear from the gearcase
housing. cover.
5. Inspect the ring gear for abnormal wear, broken,
or chipped teeth. Spin the bearing to check the
ball bearings for smoothness. Replace the
bearing if needed.
6. Remove the input shaft cover and the pinion shaft
from the gearcase housing. See next page.
7. Inspect the ring gear for abnormal wear, broken,
or chipped teeth. Spin the bearing to check the
ball bearings for smoothness. Replace the
bearing if needed.
FINAL DRIVE
7.28
REAR GEARCASE
REASSEMBLY
1. Inspect the pinion shaft bushing for wear.
2. Replace all O--rings, seals, and worn
components.
3. Install the pinion shaft into the gearcase housing.
Install the pinion shaft cover and torque the cover
bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm).
Pinion Shaft Cover Bolt Torque:
25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
4. Install the original shim(s), thrust button, and
thrust button shims into the gearcase cover.
FINAL DRIVE
7.29
5. Apply Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557)to
surface of case and install cover bolts. Install the
gearcase cover onto the gearcase housing.
Torque the cover bolts to 25 ft. lbs. in a criss cross
pattern.
Gearcase Cover Bolt Torque:
25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)
6. Install the drain plug and fill plug. Replace the
drain plug washers to ensure proper sealing after
filling.
Fill Plug
Drain Plug
14--18 ft.lbs.
(19--24 Nm)
REAR GEARCASE
INSTALLATION
1. To install the rear gearcase, reverse the removal
procedures.
2. Torque the installation bolts and nuts to the
torques specified.
3. Refill the rear gearcase with 5 oz. (150 ml) of
Polaris Premium Gearcase Lubricant (PN
2871653). Torque the fill plug to 14--18 ft. lbs.
(19--24 Nm).
Fill / Check
FINAL DRIVE
7.30
REAR GEARCASE EXPLODED VIEW
Ref. Qty. Description Ref. Qty. Description
1Asm., Rear Gearcase 11. 2Ball Bearing
1. 1RH Gearcase 12. 1Ball Bearing
2. 1LH Cover 13. 2Triple Lip Seal
3. 131T Straight Bevel Gear 14. 1Triple Lip Seal
4. 110T Straight Bevel Pinion 15. 1Retaining Ring
5. 1Bushing 16. 2Plug
6. 1Thrust Button 17. 6Bolts
7. 1Shim
8. 1Dowel Pin
9. 1Vent
10. 1Shim
1
2
3
4
5
67
8
9
10
11
12
13 16
15 14
16
13
17
14--18 FT.LBS.
(19--24 NM)
14--18 FT.LBS.
(19--24 NM)
TRANSMISSION
8.1
Transmission, Exploded View 8.2--8.5..............
Torque Specifications/Lubrication 8.5...........
Gear Shift Selector Removal 8.5...............
Transmission Removal 8.6--8.7....................
Transmission Installation 8.7--8.8..................
Transmission Disassembly 8.8-8.13................
Transmission Reassembly 8.13-8.18.................
TRANSMISSION
8.2
TRANSMISSION EXPLODED VIEW
Apply White Lithium
Based Grease.
Apply Loctitet262 to
the bolt threads.
Apply Polaris
Crankcase Sealant
262
FOR REASSEMBLY
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Item
1
3
23
33
39
70
71
Torque
12--18 fl.lbs. (16--24 Nm)
7--9 ft.lbs. (9.5--12 Nm)
15--19 ft.lbs. (20--26 Nm)
27--34 ft.lbs. (37--46 Nm)
6--12 ft.lbs. (8--16 Nm)
14--18 ft.lbs. (19--24 Nm)
6--12 ft.lbs. (8--16 Nm)
70
71
72
262
10--14 ft. lbs. (14--19 Nm)
11
TRANSMISSION
8.3
TRANSMISSION EXPLODED VIEW, CONT.
Ref. Qty. Description Ref. Qty. Description
35. 122T Sprocket
1. 1Nut 36. 119T Sprocket
2. 1Shift Drum Bellcrank 37. 1Silent Chain
3. 5Sector Cover Screws 38. 1Front Main Output Shaft
4. 1Sector Cover 39. 110T Spiral Pinion Shaft
5. 1Sector Cover Gasket 40. 1Ball Bearing
6. 1O--ring 41. 1Spacer
7. 1Detent Pawl 42. 1Retaining Ring
8. 1Compression Spring 43. 1Bearing Center Drive Cover
9. 1Shift Shaft 44. 4Torx Screws
10. 131T Sector Gear 45. 160T Mid Output Helical Gear
11. 2Hollow Hex Plug 46. 4Ball Bearing
12. 2Triple Lip Seal 47. 1Reverse Shaft
13. 1Gearcase 48. 1Needle Cage Bearing
14. 1Vent Tube 49. 124T 6 Face Sprocket
15. 1O--ring 50. 1Washer
16. 1Shift Drum 51. 2External Retaining Ring
17. 1External Retaining Ring 52. 46 Face Engagement Dog
18. 16--Pin Switch 53. 2Wave Spring
19. 1O--ring 54. 1Washer
20. 1Detent Star 55. 2Needle Cage Bearing
21. 1Lockout Disc 56. 130T 6 Face Gear
22. 116T Sector Gear 57. 147T Mid Output Helical Gear
23. 2Lock Nut 58. 1Shift Shaft Rail
24. 4Dowel Pin 59. 2Shift Fork
25. 4Ball Bearing 60. 2Dowel Pin
26. 1Thrust Washer 61. 1Silent Chain
27. 131T Spiral Gear 62. 1Input Shaft Assy.
28. 1Output Shaft 63. 1LH Main Cover
29. 1Shim 64. 1Dual Lip Seal
30. 1Thrust Button 65. 1Transmission Mount Bracket
31. 1Shim 66. 2Hex Screw
32. 1Output Cover 67. 133T 6 Face Gear
33. 15 Screw 68. 1Washer
34. 1Plain Bearing 69. 1Label
70. 1Park Lock
71. 1Bolts
72. 1Park Plate
TRANSMISSION
8.4
TRANSMISSION
INFORMATION
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
COMPONENT FT. LBS.
(IN.LBS.)
NM
Transmission Case Bolts 27--34 37--46
Oil Deflector Screws (16--30) 2--3.3
Shift Cover Bolt 6--12 8--16
Bell Crank Nut 12--18 16--24
Trans. Drain Plug / Fill Plug 10--14 14--19
Trans. Mounting Bolts 25 34.5
Snorkel Lock Screw 8--12 11--16
LUBRICATION
Refer to maintenance section for transmission
lubricant type and capacity.
GEAR SELECTOR REMOVAL
1. Disconnect linkage rod from gear selector handle.
2. Remove two bolts attaching gear selector mount to
machine frame.
3. Lift gear selector out of mounting bracket and away
from frame.
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
1. Remove seat, rear rack, rear cab, air box, and
exhaust system, and right footwell (if required for
access).
Front
Transmission Mounting
2. Disconnect transmission vent line.
3. Drain transmission lubricant.
4. Disconnect shift linkage rod end from transmission
bellcrank.
Linkage Rod
Transmission
Switch
5. Disconnect gear position switch harness.
TRANSMISSION
8.5
6. Remove auxiliary brake mounting bracket from
frame and secure out of way for transmission
removal.
7. Remove PVT outer cover, both drive and driven
clutch, and inner PVT cover (refer to Clutch
Chapter 6).
8. Use the Roll Pin Removal Tool (PN 2872608)to
remove the roll pins from the front prop shaft and
the rear prop shaft. Remove the front propshaft.
Remove
Roll Pin
9. Loosen or remove the bolts that secure the rear
gearcase. Move the rear gearcase back just
enough to slide the rear propshaft from the
transmission shaft.
Remove or Loosen
Rear Gearcase Bolts
10. Remove the park lock spring.
Park Lock Spring
11. Remove left side transmission bracket, rear
bracket, and lower right bracket bolt.
12. Remove front transmission-to-engine mount
bolts. See illustration.
13. Remove transmission from right side of frame.
TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION
1. Install transmission from right side of vehicle.
2. Align rear output shaft to rear propshaft yoke and
roll pin hole.
3. Slide rear output shaft into propshaft yoke.
4. Position transmission in frame.
5. Install front propshaft and roll pin.
6. Loosely install left side and rear mounting brackets.
7. Loosely install lower right bracket bolt.
8. Loosely install front mounting bolts.
9. Tighten mounting fasteners in order A-F as shown.
NOTE: Align clutches as outlined in Clutch Chapter 6.
Transmission Mounting
Bolts Torque
25 ft. lbs. (34.5 Nm)
TRANSMISSION
8.6
NO TAG
A
B
C
D
E
Tighten Bolts In Sequence A through E
TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY
1. Place the bellcrank in neutral position.
Bellcrank
Cover
Shift Shaft
Detent Pawl Case
2. Remove the nut, and washer that secure the bell
crank. Remove the bellcrank.
3. Remove the e--clip and then remove the
transmission switch.
Transmission
Switch
4. Remove the five bolts that secure the cover.
Remove the detent spring.
Spring
5. Mark the detent gear with a white pen. Remove the
detent gear from the case.
TRANSMISSION
8.7
NOTE: It may be helpful to place a mark just above
the keyed spline. Note the raised edge on the detent
gear for reassembly.
6. Mark the shift lockout disc, this will indicate which
side of the disc faces outward during assembly.
Remove the shift lockout disc.
NOTE: It may be helpful to place a mark just above
the keyed spline. Note the raised edge on the detent
gear for reassembly.
7. Remove the shift shaft and detent lever.
8. Note the timing marks on the shift gears. Remove
the shift gears from the case.
NOTE: You may have to tap the shift drum from the
backside of the case to aid in removal.
9. Remove the upper gear cluster and shift forks. You
may need to move the assembly back and forth to
aid in removal.
10. Set the upper gear cluster on a flat surface and
inspect the components.
TRANSMISSION
8.8
11. Remove the shift forks from the assembly. Note
the correct position of each fork.
12. Remove the bearing from the reverse shaft using
a puller.
13. Remove the park lock engagement dog. Remove
the wave spring and reverse engagement dog.
Engagement
Dogs
14. Remove the bearing from the input shaft with a
puller.
15. Remove the snap ring and washer from the
reverse shaft.
TRANSMISSION
8.9
16. Remove low gear (33T) and the needle bearing.
17. Remove the reverse gear shaft.
18. Remove the rest of the bearings from the shafts.
19. Use a press to remove the gear from the shaft.
20. Make note of the direction of the gear and hub
location.
21. Remove the gear, split bearing, and washer from
the reverse shaft.
22. Slide off the shift dogs and wave springs.
23. Remove the snap ring, washer, gear, and split
bearing.
TRANSMISSION
8.10
24. Remove bearing and the helical gear.
25. Remove the pinion shaft retainer plate and the
pinion shaft.
26. Remove the front housing cover screws.
TRANSMISSION
8.11
27. Remove the front housing cover, shim, thrust
button, and thrust button shim.
28. Remove the shafts as an assembly.
29. Remove the silent chain from the assembly for
shaft inspection.
Note Location of Hubs
30. Clean all components in a parts washer and
inspect for wear.
31. Inspect engagement dogs of gears and replace if
edges are rounded.
32. Inspect gear teeth for wear, cracks, chips or
broken teeth. Note the location of the hubs on the
gear.
33. Remove seals from transmission case.
IMPORTANT: New seals should be installed after the
transmission is completely assembled.
34. Inspect bearings for smooth operation. Check for
excessive play between inner and outer race.
TRANSMISSION REASSEMBLY
1. Reinstall the chain onto the front output shaft and
rear output shaft.
2. Install front and rear output shafts into the case.
TRANSMISSION
8.12
3. Before installing the cover make sure the sealing
surfaces are clean and dry, and shafts are fully
seated in the transmission case. Apply
Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557) to the mating
surfaces.
Crankcase Sealant
(PN 2871557)
4. Reinstall the thrust button shim, thrust button, and
other shims into the cover. Reinstall cover and
torque bolts in a criss-cross pattern in 3 steps to
27--34 ft. lbs. (36.50--46 Nm).
NOTE: Make sure that the case locating pins (knock
pipes) are in place.
Front Cover Bolt Torque:
27--34 ft. lbs. (36.50--46 Nm)
5. Install new front and rear output shaft seals. Apply
grease to the seal lips. Cover the splines of the
shaft to protect the seal lips during installation.
6. Install pinion shaft with bearing.
7. Install retainer plate with flat side toward bearing.
8. Apply Loctitet262 (Red) (PN 2871951) to screw
threads and torque screws to 6--12 ft. lbs. (8--16
Nm).
Pinion Retainer Plate
6--12 ft. lbs. (8--16 Nm)
Bolt Torque:
9. Install the a new needle bearing, the 24T reverse
sprocket, washer, and a new snap ring. Install the
shift dogs and wave spring. Install the washer, a
new needle bearing and the high gear. Install the
press fit gear and ball bearing.
TRANSMISSION
8.13
NOTE: Install a new snap ring at this time. When
installing the new snap ring, open the the snap ring
just far enough to go over the shaft, to avoid stressing
the snap ring. If the snap ring is over--stressed, it
could come off the shaft and cause internal damage
to the transmission.
10. Slide the reverse shaft assembly through the
silent chain.
11. Install a new needle bearing, the low gear, the
thrustwasher and the snap ring. Use of a new
snap ring is recommended.
12. Install the engagement dogs, wave springs, and
bearing.
13. Install the ball bearing onto the end of the input
shaft.
14. As the engagement dogs are installed onto the
shaft, place the wave springs into the spring
groove. Keep the spring in place while the fork is
being installed on the shaft and while placing the
shafts into the case.
NOTE: Use caution when installing the fork, as the
spring can easily fall out.
NOTE: Installing the shift rail will aid in keeping the
shift forks, shift dogs, and the springs in place.
15. Carefully install the shaft assembly and gear
cluster as a unit into their respective bearing case
recesses. Tap with a soft face hammer to seat
shaft assemblies.
TRANSMISSION
8.14
16. Position the shift forks up and so the the pins point
toward the 9 o’clock position, before installing the
shift drum assembly.
17. Replace and grease the O--rings on the shift drum
before installation.
18. Install the shift drum into the case.
NOTE: Make sure shift shaft pins are properly
positioned in the slot on selector arms.
19. Lift the shift rail slightly and rotate the rail/fork
assembly so it meshes with the tracks on the
shiftdrum. Be sure the wave springs are properly
in place and that the shift rail is seated into the
pocket on the backside of the case.
20. Install the helical gear and bearing onto the pinion
shaft.
21. Clean the mating surfaces of the case and cover.
Apply Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557)tothe
mating surfaces. Be sure the locating pins (knock
pipes) are in place. Reinstall cover, LH mounting
bracket and torque bolts in a criss-cross pattern in
3 steps to 27--34 ft. lbs. (36.50--46 Nm).
Front Cover Bolt Torque:
27--34 ft. lbs. (36.50--46 Nm)
22. Grease the seal lips of the input shaft seal. Apply
electricians tape or somehow cover the splines of
the shaft to protect the seal lips during installation.
Install new input shaft seal.
23. Install drain plug with a new sealing washer.
Torquedrainplugto14--18ft.lbs.(19--24Nm).
Drain Plug Torque:
10--14 ft. lbs. (14--19 Nm)
TRANSMISSION
8.15
24. Place a small amount of grease (PN 2871551)
into the pocket before installing the sector gear.
Install the shift gear (16T) on the shift drum shaft.
Install the sector gear in the bushing pocket on the
left side. Aligning the timing marks on the gears.
Sector Gear Lockout Disc
NOTE: Note the location of the skip tooth on the
splines. Apply a light coating of grease on the gear
teeth.
25. Install the lockout disc. Use the white marks that
were previously applied for reference.
26. Install the shift shaft and the detent star. Note the
keyed spline on the end of the shaft.
Keyed Spline
Detent Star
27. Install the detent pawl and spring. Install a new
o--ring onto the shift shaft after the detent pawl is
assembled to the shaft. Place a small amount of
grease on the small O--ring on the shift shaft and
on the detent star. Grease the o--ring on the end
of the shift drum.
28. Install the park lockout assembly. Torque park
lockout to 12 -- 14 ft. lbs. (16--19 Nm).
29. Apply Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557) onto the
cover and case mating surfaces. Install the cover
and hand tighten all of the bolts.
Install Cover and Bolts
30. Tighten the bolt shown below first. This helps to
align the cover and shafts to ensure smoother and
precise shifting. Torque the bolt to 6--12 ft. lbs.
(12--16 Nm).
6--12 ft.lbs.
(12--16 Nm)
Tighten This Bolt First
TRANSMISSION
8.16
31. Torque the remaining bolts to 6--12 ft.lbs. (12--16
Nm).
Cover Bolt Torque:
6--12 ft. lbs. (12--16 Nm)
32. Install a new bellcrank onto the shift shaft. Note
the keyed spline on the bellcrank and shaft.
Install the washer and nut. Torque the bellcrank
nut to 12--18 ft. lbs. (16--24 Nm).
Bellcrank Nut Torque:
12--18 ft. lbs. (16--24 Nm)
33. Install the shift switch. Install the retaining clip.
Hook up the switch harness and reconnect the
lockout plunger spring.
NOTE: Rotate the bellcrank to line the flat side of the
switch up to the flat side of the shaft.
34. Install transmission and add Polaris AGL
Gearcase Lubricant (PN 2873602)inthe
recommended amount. Refer to Maintenance
Chapter 2 for more information.
BRAKES
9.1
Special Tools/Specifications/Torques 9.2...........
Brake System Components 9.3...................
Rear Caliper Exploded View 9.4..................
Front Caliper Exploded View 9.4..................
Rear Auxiliary Master Cylinder Exploded View 9.5..
Brake System Service Notes 9.5.................
Brake Noise Troubleshooting 9.5.................
Hydraulic Brake System Overview 9.6--9.7.............
Hydraulic Caliper Bleeding 9.7...................
Brake Bleeding / Fluid Change 9.7--9.9................
Master Cylinder Removal 9.9....................
Master Cylinder Installation 9.9--9.10...................
Front Pad Removal 9.10--9.11..........................
Front Pad Assembly 9.12--9.13.........................
Brake Burnishing 9.13............................
Front Disc Inspection 9.13........................
Front Disc Removal/Replacement 9.13--9.14.............
Front Caliper Removal 9.14.......................
Front Caliper Disassembly 9.14-9.15...................
Front Caliper Inspection 9.15......................
Front Caliper Reassembly 9.15--9.16....................
Front Caliper Installation 9.17.....................
Rear Pad Removal 9.17--9.18..........................
Rear Pad Installation 9.18........................
Rear Caliper Removal/Inspection 9.19--9.20..............
Rear Caliper Reassembly 9.20--9.21....................
Rear Disc Inspection 9.21........................
Rear (Auxiliary) Brake Remove/Install 9.22..........
Troubleshooting 9.23.............................
BRAKES
9.2
SPECIAL TOOLS
PART NUMBER TOOL DESCRIPTION
2870975 Mity VactPressure Test Tool
SPECIFICATIONS
Front Brake Caliper
Item Standard Service Limit
Brake Pad Thickness .298″/7.6mm .180″/4.6mm
Brake Disc Thickness .150-.165″/ 3.81-4.19mm .140″/ 3.556mm
Brake Disc Thickness Variance Between
Measurements -.002″/ .051mm
Brake Disc Runout -.010″/ .254mm
Rear Axle Brake Caliper
Item Standard Service Limit
Brake Pad Thickness .318″/7.6mm .180″/4.6mm
Brake Disc Thickness .150-.165″/ 3.81-4.19mm .140″/ 3.56mm
Brake Disc Thickness Variance Between
Measurements -.002″/ .051mm
Brake Disc Runout -.010″/ .254mm
Master Cylinder I.D. - Front .750″
Master Cylinder I.D. - Aux. Rear .500″
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Item Torque
(ft. lbs. except where noted*) Torque
(Nm)
Front/Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts 18.0 24
Handlebar Master Cylinder Clamp
Bolts *25 in. lbs. 3.0
Hand Master Cylinder Reservoir
Cover Bolt *5 in. lbs. 0.56
Brake Line Banjo Bolt 15.0 21
Front Brake Disc Bolts 18.0 24
NOTE: Refer to the tightening procedures in this chapter when torquing the bolts. Some special procedures are
used when torquing certain bolts and fasteners.
BRAKES
9.3
BRAKE SYSTEM MAIN COMPONENTS
All Banjo Style Fittings
15 ft.lbs. (21Nm)
1
All Bleed Screws:
25--30 in.lbs.(2.80--3.40 Nm)
All Flare Style Fittings
12--15 ft.lbs. (16--21Nm)
2
3
2 Screws 5 in.lbs. (0.56 Nm)
2
2
2
2
3
3
3
1
11
1
Apply Pipe Sealant
to Threads
BRAKES
9.4
REAR BRAKE CALIPER EXPLODED VIEW
Bleed
Screws
Torque
25--30 in. lbs.
(2.80--3.40) Nm
Anvil Bolts
16--18 ft.lbs.
(22--25 Nm)
Torque
O--rings
Washers
Rear Housing
Seals
Slide Pins
Torque
30--35 ft.lbs.
(41--48 Nm)
Piston
Bushings
Seal
Bracket
Pads
Front Housing (Anvil)
O--ring
FLUID TO COMPONENT
3
3
3
APPLY POLARIS DOT 3 BRAKE
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER EXPLODED VIEW
Caliper Mount
Piston
Bushing Boot
Square
O--Rings
Socket Set Screw
Boot Bushing
Brake Pads
Caliper Assembly
Bleeder Screw
35--60 IN. LBS.
(4--6.5 NM)
APPLY POLARIS ALL
PURPOSE GREASE
APPLY POLARIS DOT 3 BRAKE
FLUID TO COMPONENT
3
33
BRAKES
9.5
REAR AUXILIARY MASTER CYLINDER
Frame
Bushing
Bushing
Washer
Washer
Screw
Spring
Screw
Rear Brake
Master Cylinder
Rear Brake Line
Seal
Bolt
Brake Reservoir
Clamp
Reservoir Hose
Brake Mount
BRAKE SYSTEM SERVICE
NOTES
Polaris disc brake systems are light weight, low
maintenance and perform well in the conditions ATVs
routinely encounter. However, there are a few things
to remember when replacing disc brake pads or
performing brake system service to ensure proper
system function and maximum pad service life.
SPerform a brake burnishing
procedure after installing new pads
to maximize service life.
SOptional pads are available to suit
conditions in your area. Select a pad
to fit riding style and environment.
SDo not over-fill the master cylinder
fluid reservoir.
SMake sure the brake lever and pedal
returns freely and completely.
SAdjust stop pin on front caliper after
pad service.
SCheck and adjust master cylinder
reservoir fluid level after pad service.
SMake sure atmospheric vent on
reservoir is unobstructed.
STest for brake drag after any brake
system service and investigate
cause if brake drag is evident.
SMake sure caliper moves freely on
guide pins (where applicable).
SInspect caliper piston seals for
foreign material that could prevent
caliper pistons from returning freely.
CAUTION: Use only DOT 3 brake fluid as an
assembly aid for all procedures described in this chapter to
prevent brake system contamination. DO NOT USE
LUBRICANTS OF ANY KIND FOR ASSEMBLY, AS THEIR
USE CAN CAUSE RUBBER COMPONENTS TO SWELL.
BRAKE NOISE
TROUBLESHOOTING
Dirt or dust buildup on the brake pads and disc is the
most common cause of brake noise (squeal caused
by vibration). If cleaning does not reduce the
occurrence of brake noise, PermatextDisc Brake
Quiet (PN 2872113) can be applied to the back of the
pads. Follow directions on the package. This will
keep pads in contact with caliper piston(s) to reduce
the chance of squeaks caused by dirt or dust.
BRAKES
9.6
Brake Noise Troubleshooting
Possible Cause Remedy
Dirt, dust, or im-
bedded material
on pads or disc
Spray disc and pads
with CRC Brake Kleent
or equivalent non-flam-
mable aerosol brake
cleaner. Remove pads
and/or disc hub to clean
imbedded material from
disc or pads.
Pad(s) dragging on
disc (noise or
premature pad wear)
Improper adjustment
Insufficient lever or
pedal clearance
Master cylinder res-
ervoir overfilled
Master cylinder
compensating port
restricted
Master cylinder pis-
ton not returning com-
pletely
Caliper piston(s) not
returning
Operator error (riding
the brake / park brake
applied)
Adjust pad stop
(front calipers)
Check position of
controls & switches.
Set to proper level
Clean compensating port
Inspect.
Repair as necessary
Clean piston(s) seal
Educate operator
Loose wheel hub or
bearings Check wheel and hub
for abnormal
movement.
Brake disc warped or
excessively worn Replace disc
Brake disc
misaligned or loose Inspect and repair as
necessary
Noise is from other
source (chain, axle,
hub, disc or wheel)
If noise does not
change when brake is
applied check other
sources. Inspect and
repair as necessary
Wrong pad for
conditions Change to a softer or
harder pad
HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM
OPERATION OVERVIEW
AB
C
D
E
F
Must be clear
to allow
proper dia-
phragm move-
ment
Compensating port
compensates
for temperature
changes by allow-
ing fluid back to
master cylinder
Move-
able
Brake
Pad G
Typical Hydraulic Brake System
The Polaris disc brake system consists of the
following components or assemblies: brake lever;
master cylinder; hydraulic hose; brake calipers (slave
cylinder); brake pads; and brake discs, which are
secured to the drive line.
When the hand activated brake lever (A) is applied it
contacts piston (B) within the master cylinder. As the
master cylinder piston moves inward it closes a small
opening (compensating port C) within the cylinder and
starts to build pressure within the brake system. As
the pressure within the system is increased, the piston
(D) located in the brake caliper moves outward and
applies pressure to the brake pad. This pad contacts
the brake disc and moves the caliper in its floating
bracket, pulling the stationary side pad into the brake
disc. The resulting friction reduces brake disc and
vehicle speed. As the lever pressure is increased, the
braking affect is also increased.
The friction applied to the brake pads will cause the
pads to wear. As these pads wear, the piston within
the caliper moves further outward and becomes self
adjusting. Fluid from the reservoir fills the additional
area created when the caliper piston moves outward.
Brake fluid level is critical to proper system operation.
Too little fluid will allow air to enter the system and
cause the brakes to feel spongy. Too much fluid could
cause brakes to drag due to fluid expansion.
Located within the master cylinder is the
compensating port (C) which is opened and closed by
the master cylinder piston assembly. The port is open
BRAKES
9.7
when the lever is released and the master cylinder
piston is outward. As the temperature within the
hydraulic system changes, this port compensates for
fluid expansion (heated fluid) or contraction (cooled
fluid). During system service, be sure this port is
open. Due to the high temperatures created within the
system during heavy braking, it is very important that
the master cylinder reservoir have adequate space to
allow for fluid expansion. Never overfill the
reservoir! Fill to 1/4″-5/16″(.64 - .80 cm) from top
of the cylinder.
This system also incorporates a diaphragm (E) aspart
of the cover gasket; and a vent port (F) located
between the gasket and the cover. The combination
diaphragm and vent allow for the air above the fluid to
equalize pressure as the fluid expands or contracts.
Make sure the vent is open and allowed to function.
If the reservoir is over filled or the diaphragm vent is
plugged the expanding fluid may build pressure in the
brake system leading to brake failure.
When servicing Polaris ATV brake systems, use only
Polaris DOT 3 Brake Fluid (PN 2870990).
WARNING: Once a bottle is opened, use what is
necessary and discard the rest in accordance with
local laws. Do not store or use a partial bottle of brake
fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it rapidly
absorbs moisture. This causes the boiling
temperature of the brake fluid to drop, which can lead
to brake fade and the possible loss of control.
HYDRAULIC
CALIPER BLEEDING
The front calipers a single piston conventional design.
The rear caliper piston is a “T”-shaped, which allows
both hand and foot brake to use the same caliper
piston, but remain separated by seals. The hand
brake system applies hydraulic pressure to both front
calipers and only the outer diameter of the rear caliper
pistons. The auxiliary (foot) brake applies pressure to
the inner portion of the rear caliper pistons. Because
the hand and foot brake hydraulic systems are
separate, there are also two bleed screws -- one for
the outer fluid chamber (hand brake), and one for the
inner fluid chamber (foot brake). The basic procedure
for bleeding the brake system is the same as outlined
on page 9.7 - 9.8, however, each system must be bled
separately.
Hydraulic Auxiliary Brake inspection and adjustment
is outlined in Chapter 2 beginning on Page 2.28.
NOTE: Uppermost (inner) bleed screw and brake line
(A) is for hand brake system. Lower (outer) bleed screw
and brake line (B) is for auxiliary (foot) brake system.
B
Inner Bleed Screw
Hand Brake
Outer Bleed Screw
Auxiliary Brake
A
B
BRAKE BLEEDING - FLUID
CHANGE
NOTE: When bleeding the brakes or replacing the
fluid, always start with the caliper farthest from the
master cylinder.
CAUTION:
Always wear safety glasses during these
procedures. Brake fluid will damage finished
surfaces. Do not allow brake fluid to come in
contact with finished surfaces.
NOTE: Do not remove brake lever when reservoir
fluid level is low.
This procedure should be used to change fluid or
bleed brakes during regular maintenance.
1. Clean reservoir cover thoroughly.
2. Remove screws, cover and diaphragm (C) from
reservoir.
3. Inspect vent slots (A) in cover and remove any
debris or blockage.
B
A
D
CSight
Glass
BRAKES
9.8
4. If changing fluid, remove old fluid from reservoir
with a Mity Vactpump or similar tool.
Mity Vact(PN 2870975)
5. Add brake fluid to the indicated MAX level inside
reservoir.
MAX
Polaris DOT 3 Brake Fluid
(PN 2870990)
6. Begin bleeding procedure with the caliper that is
farthest from the master cylinder. Install a box
end wrench on caliper bleeder screw. Attach a
clean, clear hose to fitting and place the other end
in a clean container. Be sure the hose fits tightly
on fitting. (E) is Auxiliary Brake Line, (F) is Hand
Brake Line.
B
Inner Bleed Screw
Hand Brake
Outer Bleed Screw
Auxiliary Brake
F
E
BRAKE BLEEDING CONT’D
NOTE: Fluid may be forced from supply port (B)
when brake lever is pumped. Place diaphragm (C) in
reservoir to prevent spills. Do not install cover. See
Illustration above.
7. Slowly pump brake lever (D) until pressure builds
and holds.
8. While maintaining lever pressure, open bleeder
screw. Close bleeder screw and release brake
lever. NOTE: Do not release lever before bleeder
screw is tight or air may be drawn into caliper.
Bleeder Screw Torque
25--30 in.lbs. (2.80 --3.40 Nm)
9. Repeat procedure until clean fluid appears in
bleeder hose and all air has been purged. Add
fluid as necessary to maintain level in reservoir.
CAUTION:
Maintain at least 1/2″(1.27 cm) of brake fluid in the
reservoir to prevent air from entering the master
cylinder.
10. Tighten bleeder screw securely and remove
bleeder hose. Torque the bleeder screw to 25--30
in.lbs. (2.80 --3.40 Nm).
11. Repeat procedure Steps 5-9 for the remaining
caliper(s).
12. Add Polaris Dot 3 Brake Fluid (PN 2870990)to
MAX level inside reservoir.
Master Cylinder Fluid Level:
MAX level inside reservoir
Sight glass must look dark, if sight
glass is clear, fluid level is too low
BRAKES
9.9
13. Install diaphragm, cover and screws. Tighten
screws to specification 5 in. lbs. (0.56 Nm).
Reservoir Cover Torque -
5 in. lbs. (.56 Nm)
14. Field test machine at low speed before putting
into service. Check for proper braking action and
lever reserve. With lever firmly applied, lever
reserve should be no less than 1/2″(1.3 cm) from
handlebar.
15. Check brake system for fluid leaks and inspect all
hoses and lines for wear or abrasion. Replace
hose if wear or abrasion is found.
MASTER CYLINDER
REMOVAL
1. Clean master cylinder and reservoir assembly.
Make sure you have a clean work area to
disassemble brake components.
2. Place a shop towel under brake line connection at
master cylinder. Loosen banjo bolt; remove bolt
and sealing washers.
CAUTION:
Brake fluid will damage finished surfaces. Do not
allow brake fluid to come in contact with finished
surfaces.
3. Remove master cylinder from handlebars.
4. Hold brake upright and continue to remove
master cylinder. Cover brake line to avoid
spillage.
MASTER CYLINDER
INSTALLATION
Notice: When replacing the brake master cylinder
assembly or master cylinder parts, use the correct
parts. There are different brake master cylinders for
the different Polaris ATV models. Refer to your parts
manual or guide for the correct parts. This master
cylinder is not serviceable and is replaced as a
unit.
1. Install master cylinder on handlebars. Torque
mounting bolts to 25 in. lbs. (3 Nm). Torque the
inside bolt first as indicated in the illustration to the
right.
Torque both bolts to
25 in.lbs. (3 Nm)
Torque this
bolt first
5in.lbs.
(.56 Nm)
NOTE: To speed up the brake bleeding procedure,
the master cylinder can be purged of air before brake
line is attached. Fill with DOT3 Brake Fluid (PN
2870990) and pump lever slowly two to three times
with finger over the outlet end to purge master cylinder
of air.
BRAKES
9.10
2. Place new sealing washers on each side of banjo
line and torque banjo bolt to specification.
Brake Line
Banjo Bolt
Sealing Washers
Torque to 15 ft.lbs.
(21 Nm)
Hand Master Cylinder Clamp Bolt
Torque 25 in. lbs. (3 Nm)
Brake Line Banjo Bolt Torque
15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
3. Fill reservoir with DOT3 Brake Fluid (PN
2870990).
Polaris DOT 3 Brake Fluid
(PN 2870990)
4. Follow bleeding procedure on Pages 9.7-9.8.
Check all connections for leaks and repair if
necessary.
FRONT PAD REMOVAL
1. Elevate and support front of machine.
CAUTION:
Use care when supporting vehicle so that it does
not tip or fall. Severe injury may occur if machine
tips or falls.
2. Remove the front wheel. Loosen pad adjuster
screw 2-3 turns.
3. Remove caliper from mounting bracket.
4. Push caliper piston into caliper bore slowly using
a C-clamp or locking pliers with pads installed.
BRAKES
9.11
NOTE: Brake fluid will be forced through
compensating port into master cylinder fluid reservoir
when piston is pushed back into caliper. Remove
excess fluid from reservoir as required.
5. Push mounting bracket inward and slip outer
brake pad past edge. Remove inner pad.
6. Measure the thickness of the pad material.
Replace pads if worn beyond the service limit.
Measure
Thickness
Front Brake Pad Thickness
New .298″/7.6 mm
Service Limit .180″/4.6mm
BRAKES
9.12
FRONT PAD ASSEMBLY
1. Lubricate mounting bracket pins with a light film of
Polaris Premium All Season Grease, and install
rubber dust boots.
Polaris Premium All Season Grease
(PN 2871423)
2. Compress mounting bracket and make sure dust
boots are fully seated. Install pads with friction
material facing each other. WARNING: If the
brake pads are contaminated with grease, oil, or
liquid soaked do not use the pads, use only new
clean pads.
3. Install caliper on hub strut, and torque mounting
bolts.
18 ft. lbs.
(25 Nm)
Front Caliper Mounting Bolts
Torque: 18 ft. lbs. (24Nm)
4. Slowly pump the brake lever until pressure has
been built up. Maintain at least 1/2″(12.7 mm) of
brake fluid in the reservoir to prevent air from
entering the brake system.
5. Install the adjuster screw and turn clockwise until
stationary pad contacts disc, then back off 1/2
turn (counterclockwise).
6. Verify fluid level in reservoir is up to MAX line
inside reservoir and install reservoir cap.
Master Cylinder Fluid
Up to MAX line inside reservoir
BRAKES
9.13
7. Install wheels and torque wheel nuts.
Front Wheel Nut Torque:
SeePage7.2
BRAKE BURNISHING
PROCEDURE
It is required that a burnishing procedure be
performed after installation of new brake pads to
extend service life and reduce noise.
Start machine and slowly increase speed to 30 mph.
Gradually apply brakes to stop machine. Allow pads
and disc to cool sufficiently during the procedure. Do
not allow pads or disc to become hot or warpage may
result. Repeat this procedure 10 times.
FRONT DISC INSPECTION
1. Visually inspect the brake disc for nicks,
scratches, or damage.
2. Measure the disc thickness at eight different
points around the pad contact surface using a
0-1″micrometer. Replace disc if worn beyond
service limit.
Brake Disc Thickness
Service Limit .140″/ 3.556 mm
New .150-.165″(3.810-4.19 mm)
Brake Disc Thickness Variance
Service Limit: .002″(.051 mm)
difference between measurements.
3. Mount dial indicator as shown to measure disc
runout. Slowly rotate the disc and read total
runout on the dial indicator. Replace the disc if
runout exceeds specifications.
Brake Disc Runout
Service Limit .010″/ .254 mm
FRONT BRAKE DISC
REMOVAL / REPLACEMENT
NOTE: To reduce the possibility of warpage, try
removing the brake disc mounting bolts before
applying heat to the bolts.
1. Apply heat to the hub in the area of the brake disc
mounting bolts to soften the bolt locking agent.
18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)
new bolts have
pre-applied
locking agent.
2. Remove bolts and disc.
3. Clean mating surface of disc and hub.
4. Install disc on hub.
5. Install new bolts and tighten to specified torque.
Front Brake Disc Mounting Bolt Torque
18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)
BRAKES
9.14
CAUTION: Always use new brake disc mounting
bolts. The bolts have a pre-applied locking agent
which is destroyed upon removal.
FRONT CALIPER REMOVAL
CAUTION:
Use care when supporting vehicle so that it does
not tip or fall. Severe injury may occur if machine
tips or falls.
1. Using a line wrench, loosen and remove brake
line to caliper. Place a container under caliper to
catch fluid draining from brake line.
2. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts.
3. Remove brake caliper and drain fluid into
container. Do not reuse brake fluid.
FRONT CALIPER
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove brake pad adjuster screw.
2. Push upper pad retainer pin inward and slip brake
pads past edge.
3. Remove mounting bracket, pin assembly and
dust boot.
Remove
Mounting Bracket
4. Remove piston, dust seal and piston seal.
BRAKES
9.15
5. Clean the caliper body, piston, and retaining
bracket with brake cleaner or alcohol.
NOTE: Be sure to clean seal grooves in caliper body.
Clean Components
FRONT CALIPER
INSPECTION
1. Inspect caliper body for nicks, scratches or wear.
Measure bore size and compare to specifications.
Replace if damage is evident or if worn beyond
service limit.
Front Caliper Piston Bore I.D.
Std. 1.188″(30.2 mm)
Service Limit 1.193″(30.30 mm)
2. Inspect piston for nicks, scratches, wear or
damage. Measure diameter and replace if
damaged or worn beyond service limit.
3. Inspect the brake disc and pads as outlined for
brake pad replacement this section. See Pages
9.10--9.11.
FRONT CALIPER REASSEMBLY
1. Install new O-rings (A) in the caliper body (B). Be
sure groove is clean and free of residue or brakes
may drag upon assembly.
A
B
C
2. Coat piston with clean Polaris DOT 3 Brake Fluid
(PN 2870990) (C). Install piston (D) with a
twisting motion while pushing inward. Piston
should slide in and out of bore smoothly, with light
resistance.
3. Lubricate the mounting bracket pins with Polaris
Premium All Season Grease, and install the
rubber dust seal boots.
BRAKES
9.16
Polaris Premium All Season Grease
(PN 2871423)
4. Compress the mounting bracket and make sure
the dust seals are fully seated. Install the pads as
shown on Page 9.10. Clean the disc and pads
with brake parts cleaner or denatured alcohol to
remove any dirt, oil or grease.
FRONT CALIPER
INSTALLATION
1. Install caliper on hub strut, and torque mounting
bolts.
18 ft. lbs.
(24 Nm)
15 ft. lbs.
(21 Nm)
Front Caliper Mounting Bolt:
18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)
Torque Specifications
Front Banjo Bolt Brake Line:
15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
2. Install brake line and tighten securely with a line
wrench. Torque the banjo brake lines to the
proper torque specification.
3. Install the adjuster screw and turn until stationary
pad contacts disc, then back off 1/2 turn.
4. Follow brake bleeding procedure outlined on
Pages 9.7-9.8.
5. Install wheels and torque wheel nuts to
specification.
Front Wheel Nut Torque:
SeePage7.2
BRAKES
9.17
BRAKE BURNISHING
PROCEDURE
It is required that a burnishing procedure be
performed after installation of new brake pads to
extend service life and reduce noise.
Start machine and slowly increase speed to 30 mph.
Gradually apply brakes to stop machine. Allow pads
and disc to cool sufficiently during the procedure. Do
not allow pads or disc to become hot or warpage may
result. Repeat this procedure 10 times.
REAR BRAKE PAD REMOVAL
1. Support the machine. Remove the rear tire.
2. Remove one of the slide pin clips from the slide
bolt.
Clip
3. Loosen one of the slide pins with a hex wrench.
4. Remove caliper mounting bolts and lift caliper off
of disc.
NOTE: When removing caliper, be careful not to
damage brake line. Support caliper so as not to kink
or bend brake line.
5. Push caliper pistons into caliper bore slowly with
pads installed.
NOTE: Brake fluid will be forced through
compensating port into master cylinder fluid reservoir
when piston is pushed back into caliper. Remove
excess fluid from reservoir as required.
6. Remove the caliper slide pin and remove the
brake pads from the caliper.
Remove
Brake Pads
7. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner or alcohol.
8. Measure the thickness of the pad material.
Replace pads if worn beyond the service limit.
BRAKES
9.18
Measure
Thickness
Rear Brake Pad Thickness
New: .318″(8.0 mm)
Service Limit: .180″(4.6 mm)
REAR BRAKE PAD
INSTALLATION
1. Install new brake pads in caliper body.
WARNING: If the brake pads are contaminated
with grease, oil, or liquid soaked do not use the
pads, use only new clean pads.
Install Pads
2. Install and tighten the slide pin with a hex wrench.
3. Install caliper and torque the mounting bolts.
18 ft.lbs. (24 Nm)
Rear Brake Caliper:
18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)
Torque Specifications:
Caliper Slide Pin Torque:
30--35 ft. lbs. (41 Nm--48 Nm)
4. Install the slide bolt snap ring. Torque the slide pin
to 30--35 ft. lbs. (41 Nm--48 Nm).
30--35 ft.lbs.
(41--48 Nm)
5. Slowly pump the brake lever until pressure has
been built up. Maintain at least 1/2″(12.7 mm) of
brake fluid in the reservoir to prevent air from
entering the master cylinder.
6. It is recommended that a burnishing procedure be
performed after installation of new brake pads to
extend service life and reduce noise. Start
machine and slowly increase speed to 30 mph.
Gradually apply brakes to stop machine. Repeat
procedure 10 times.
BRAKES
9.19
REAR CALIPER
REMOVAL/INSPECTION
1. Clean caliper area before removal.
2. Using a flare nut wrench, remove hand brake
(inner) and auxiliary brake (outer) lines. Place a
container to catch brake fluid draining from brake
lines.
3. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and the
caliper.
4. Remove the slide bolt snap rings (A), the slide
pins(B), the bracket pad (C), and the brake pads
(D).
A
Caliper
B
C
D
5. Remove the anvil bolts and separate caliper
halves and remove pistons with piston pliers.
Seal
Piston & O--rings
Caliper
Anvil Bolts
6. Remove seals and O-rings. Clean the O-ring
grooves.
7. Clean disc, caliper body, and pistons with brake
cleaner or alcohol.
8. Remove the slide bolt bushings. Inspect the
bushings and O--rings and replace if necessary.
Bushing
O--ring
9. Measure the inside diameter of the rear caliper.
The caliper body is a 2--step piston. The rear step
is measured as well as the outside step.
BRAKES
9.20
1.5 in.
38.1 mm
.94 in.
23.88 mm
10. Inspect caliper piston bore for scratches, severe
corrosion, or galling and replace if necessary.
Inspect
11. Inspect surface of caliper piston for nicks,
scratches, or damage and replace if necessary.
REAR CALIPER ASSEMBLY
1. Install new O-rings in the slide bolt bushing holes.
Be sure O-ring and seal grooves are thoroughly
cleaned of all residue, or piston may bind in bore.
Apply brake fluid to piston seals and install
carefully with a twisting motion to ease assembly
until fully seated.
O-Rings
Seals
2. Carefully assemble caliper body, making sure
O-rings are properly positioned in groove.
Tighten the caliper anvil bolts and then torque the
anvil bolts evenly to 16--18 ft. lbs. (22--24 Nm).
16--18 ft.lbs. (22--24 Nm)
Caliper Anvil Bolt Torque:
16--18 ft. lbs. (22--25 Nm)
3. Install brake pads in caliper body with friction
material facing each other. Install the slide pins
and the slide pin retaining ring. Torque the slide
pins to 30--35 ft.lbs. (41--48 Nm).
NOTE: The slide pins can be torqued when
installed on caliper mount also.
BRAKES
9.21
Caliper Slide Pin
Caliper Slide Pin Torque:
30--35 ft. lbs. (41 Nm--48 Nm)
4. Install caliper and torque mounting bolts to 18
ft.lbs (25 Nm).
18 ft.lbs. (24 Nm) 30--35 ft.lbs.
(41--48 Nm)
18 ft.lbs. (24 Nm)
30--35 ft.lbs.
(41--48 Nm)
Caliper Mounting Bolt Torque:
18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)
5. Install brake line and tighten securely with a line
wrench. Torque the brake lines to the proper
torque specification.
6. Follow bleeding procedure outlined on Pages
9.6-9.7 of this section and refer to system
overview and illustrations on Pages 9.2--9.3.
7. Field test unit for proper braking action before
putting into service. Inspect for fluid leaks and
firm brakes. Make sure the brake is not dragging
when lever is released. If the brake drags,
re-check assembly and installation.
REAR BRAKE DISC
INSPECTION
1. Visually inspect disc for scoring, scratches, or
gouges. Replace the disc if any deep scratches
are evident.
2. Usea0-1″micrometer and measure disc
thickness at 8 different points around perimeter of
disc. Replace disc if worn beyond service limit.
Measure
Thickness
Rear Brake
Disc
Brake Disc Thickness
Service Limit .140″(3.556 mm)
New .150-.165″(3.81--4.19 mm)
Brake Disc Thickness Variance
Service Limit .002″(.051 mm)
difference between measurements
3. Mount dial indicator and measure disc runout.
Replace the disc if runout exceeds specifications.
Brake Disc Runout
Service Limit .010″/ .254 mm
BRAKES
9.22
REAR (AUXILIARY) BRAKE
REMOVAL / INSTALL
Brake Pedal Removal / Install
1. To remove the brake pedal:
SRemove the spring attached to the
transmission park lock mechanism
SRemove the cotter key
SRemove the washers, bushings, and
tension spring
2. Reverse the steps for installation, use a new
cotter key during installation.
Rear Brake Master Cylinder Removal /
Install
1. If necessary, remove the rear brake line from the
master cylinder. Use a suitable container to catch
the brake fluid. Dispose of brake fluid properly.
2. Remove the two bolts that secure the rear master
cylinder to the brake mount plate. Replace parts
as needed.
3. To install the rear brake master cylinder, mount
the master cylinder to the mount plate and torque
bolts to 8 ft.lbs. (11 Nm).
4. Reinstall the brake line and torque the banjo bolt
to 15 ft.lbs. (21 Nm). If the rear brake line is the
pipe fit style, torque the fitting to 12--15 ft. lbs.
(16--20 Nm).
REAR AUXILIARY MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
Brake Reservoir
Rear Foot Brake Line
Foot Pedal
Cotter Pin
Washer
Bushing
Mount Plate
Rear Master Cylinder
MC Bolts
Mount Plate Bolts
15 ft.lbs.
(21 Nm)
8 ft.lbs.
(11 Nm)
8 ft.lbs.
(11 Nm)
BRAKES
9.23
REAR BRAKE CALIPER EXPLODED VIEW
Bleed
Screws
Torque
25--30 in. lbs.
(2.80--3.40) Nm
Anvil Bolts
16--18 ft.lbs.
(22--24 Nm)
Torque
O--rings
Washers
Rear Caliper
Seals
Slide Pins
Torque
30--35 ft.lbs.
(41--48 Nm)
Piston
Bushings
Seal
Bracket
Pads
Front Caliper
Snap Ring
APPLY POLARIS DOT 3 BRAKE
FLUID TO COMPONENT
3
3
3
TROUBLESHOOTING
Brakes Squeal
GDirty/contaminated friction pads
GImproper alignment
GWorn disc
GWorn disc splines
Poor Brake Performance
GAir in system
GWater in system (brake fluid contaminated)
GCaliper/disc misaligned
GCaliper dirty or damaged
GBrake line damaged or lining ruptured
GWorn disc and/or friction pads
GIncorrectly adjusted lever
GIncorrectly adjusted stationary pad
GWorn or damaged master cylinder or components
GImproper clearance between lever and switch
Lever Vibration
GDisc damaged
GDisc worn (runout or thickness variance exceeds
service limit)
Caliper Overheats (Brakes Drag)
GCompensating port plugged
GPad clearance set incorrectly
GAuxiliary brake pedal incorrectly adjusted
GBrake lever or pedal binding or unable to return
fully
GParking brake left on
GResidue build up under caliper seals
GOperator riding brakes
Brakes Lock
GAlignment of caliper to disc.
BRAKES
9.24
NOTES
ELECTRICAL
10.1
Crankshaft Position Sensor Gap 10.2..............
Gear Position Switch Test 10.2....................
Instrument Cluster Overview 10.3--10.7.................
Speedometer Removal/Installation 10.8............
Speedometer Operation Troubleshooting 10.9--10.13......
Coolant Sensor Tests 10.14.......................
Fan Motor Tests 10.14............................
Fan Control Switch Tests 10.14....................
Electronic Throttle Circuit System Operation 10.15....
Flywheel Identification 10.16.......................
Ignition System Operation 10.16...................
Ignition Components 10.17........................
Ignition System Troubleshooting 10.18--10.19..............
Charging System Testing 10.19....................
Fan / ECU Relays 10.20...........................
Charging System Testing Flow Chart 10.21..........
Battery Identification 10.22.........................
Conventional Battery Activation/Service 10.22--10.23........
Low Maint. Battery Activation/Service 10.24--10.28..........
Head Light/ Lamp / Switch Service 10.28--10.32............
Work / Brake Light Lamp /Switch Service 10.32--10.34......
Fuel Sender Test 10.34............................
Accessory Wire Connections 10.35.................
Winch Wiring Diagram 10.36.......................
Starter System Troubleshooting 10.37...............
Starter Motor Service 10.37--10.43........................
ELECTRICAL
10.2
CRANKSHAFT POSITION
SENSOR GAP
Measure trigger coil gap with a feeler gauge. The gap
should be .059 inch (1.0 mm).
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor Gap:
.059” ±.010 inch
(1.0 ±.26mm)
GEAR POSITION INDICATOR
SWITCH TEST
High Range
Neutral
Reverse
F
FF
Low Range
C
BA D
High/Low/Neutral/Reverse/Park Switch
ABCDEF
TRANSMISSION SWITCH
EF
FF
F
Park F
F
F
F
Blue / Red
White / Blue
Brown / Red
Green / White
Purple
Orange / Red
NOTE: Also see “INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
TROUBLESHOOTING” for gear switch re-
sistance.
ELECTRICAL
10.3
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
OVERVIEW
Ill.1
Ill.2
9
Introduction
Refer to Illustration 1:
The Polaris ATV Instrument Cluster is powered by
battery voltage (12 VDC) and requires inputs from the
engine RPM, transmission gear, and wheel speed
sensor for proper operation. Two harnesses plug into
the cluster head; one from the right front wheel speed
sensor, and one from the vehicle main harness. A
non-serviceable internal memory battery maintains
odometer and hour meter data when the machine is
not running. The illumination lamp inside the gauge
is non-serviceable and is designed to last for the life
of the unit. (A) The speedometer needle indicates
speed from an electronic wheel speed sensor located
on the right front brake caliper bracket and the needle
also flashes during a warning condition. The
speedometer needle indicates speed in MPH and
KPH. NOTE:A flashing needle could indicate a
hot engine, low battery warning, or the No. 10 Pin
could be grounded. (B) The speedometer features
numbers in Mile Per Hour (MPH) and Kilometers Per
Hour (KPH). (C) The Rider Information Center
performs a number of functions (See Illustration 2):
1. Odometer/Tachometer/Trip meter/Hour Meter
* Odometer records the miles traveled by the ATV.
*Tachometer displays engine RPM. This feature will
also display with the vehicle in motion NOTE: Small
RPM fluctuations from day to day are normal because
of changes in humidity, temperature, and elevation.
*Trip meter records the miles traveled by the ATV if
reset before each trip or total miles to 999. To reset
the trip meter, select the trip meter mode. Press and
hold the mode button (override button) until the total
changes to 0.NOTE: In the Rider InformationCenter,
the trip meter display contains a decimal point, but the
odometer displays without a decimal point.
*Hour Meter logs the total hours the engine has been
in operation.
2.Programmable Service Interval/Diagnostic
Mode
*Service Interval -- The purpose of the
programmable service interval is to provide the
consumer and the dealer with a convenient way to
schedule routine maintenance. When the ATV leaves
the factory, this feature is set at “50 hours”. When the
first 50 hours of engine operation are finished the
wrench icon will flash for 10 seconds each time the
ATV is started as a reminder that ATV maintenance
is due. NOTE: To reset the Service Interval, follow the
directions on the on Page 10.5, “Setting New Service
Interval”.
3. Check Engine Warning Indicator
The word HOT will display alpha numerically when the
engine is overheating. Do not continue to operate the
ATV if this warning appears. Refer to Chapter 3
“Cooling System Troubleshooting” for help with
diagnosis of overheating.
4. High/Low Battery Voltage
This warning usually indicates that the ATV is being
operated at an RPM too low to keep the battery
charged. A low battery warning may also occur under
normal operation if the machine is at idle and high
electrical load (lights, cooling fan, accessories) is
applied. Driving at a higher RPM or connecting a
battery charger will usually clear the warning.
ELECTRICAL
10.4
5. Engine Hour Display Indicator
Displays number of hours of engine operation.
6. AWD Indicator
Illuminates when the electrical portion of the AWD
system is enabled.
7. Gear Indicator
Specifies what position the shift lever and
transmission are in. This area is blank if a fault occurs.
8. Mode Indicator
Indicates which modes are being utilized.
9.Fuel Gauge
The segments of the fuel gauge indicate the level of
fuel in the fuel tank. When the last segment clears, a
low fuel warning is activated. All related icons will
flash, “FUEL” will display in the LCD, and the
speedometer needle will blink. If riding, be sure to
refuel immediately.
Blink When Low on Fuel
DIAGNOSTIC MODE
NOTE: This gauge features auto shut--off protection
if the voltage on the DC bus is excessive. This is
usually the result of an open battery condition, and the
gauge is designed to survive such an event.
NOTE: If the gauge will not indicate what gear it is in
and will not allow AWD operation, AWD can still be
enabled by holding in the mode/override button.
To enter the diagnostics mode:
1. Turn the key switch off and wait 10 seconds.
2. Set the park brake and shift the transmission to
neutral.
3. Hold the mode/reverse override button as you
turn the key switch on.
4. Release the switch as soon as the display is
activated.
Use the mode/reverse override button to toggle
through the diagnostic screens.
NOTE: The initial screen display refers to the
software version installed on your ATV. This
information is only displayed briefly.
Screen 1: The first screen indicates battery voltage.
Refer to Ill. 2.
Ill. 2
Screen 2:Tachometer (Ill. 3) indicates engine rpm.
Ill.3
Screen 3:AWD diagnostic screen. This screen
indicates whether or not current is flowing through the
AWD coil on models with switchable AWD.
AWD Off
AWD On
ELECTRICAL
10.5
Screen 4:Gear circuit diagnostic. This screen
displays the resistance value (in ohms) being read at
the gear switch input of the gauge. NOTE: 10--20%
variance from these readings is within normal
parameters.
23 Ohms in Park
158 Ohms in Neutral
75 Ohms in Reverse
297 Ohms in Low
628 Ohms in High
Screen 5: Programmable service interval. The
purpose of the programmable service interval is to
provide the consumer and dealer with a convenient
reminder for routine maintenance. When the ATV
leaves the factory, this feature is set at 50 hours.
Once the service interval mode is set with the hours
when service is due, the hours of actual engine
operation are subtracted from the set hours until 0is
reached. When the counter reaches 0, the wrench
icon will flash quickly for 10 seconds each time the
vehicle is started as a reminder that the periodic
maintenance is due.
Setat50hrs.fromFactory
SETTING A NEW SERVICE INTERVAL:
Setting Service Interval After Countdown (zero):
1. While in the service interval mode, press and hold
the mode/override button until the wrench icon
flashes. When it begins to flash, release the button.
2. The setting will increase by one hour each time the
button is pressed. Pressing and holding the button will
allow the numbers to escalate much faster.
3. When the desired time increment is displayed,
release the button and wait for the wrench to stop
flashing. When the wrench stops blinking, your
ELECTRICAL
10.6
service hours are set. (Next Page)
NOTE: If you scroll past the intended number, hold
the button down until the count turns over to 0.You
can then reset the number.
Turn Service Interval OFF:
1. If the service interval is enabled (functioning) on
your ATV and you wish to turn it off, toggle to the
service interval mode.
2. Press and hold the mode button for approximately
7 seconds until the word OFF appears in the Rider
Information Center. The service interval is now off.
3. To enable (turn on) the service interval mode,
repeat the steps above in “Setting Service Interval
After Countdown”.
Change Service Interval Time:
If you would like to change the service interval time,
(for example change the interval from 50 hrs. to 55
hrs.). Follow the steps below:
1. While in the service interval mode, press and hold
the mode button for approximately 7 seconds until the
word OFF appears in the Rider Information Center.
2. Wait 5 seconds and then press the mode button in
until the wrench icon flashes. Press the mode button
again to set the desired service increment. Release
the button and wait for the wrench icon to stop
flashing. The new service interval is now set.
Screen 6: Miles/Kilometers toggle, The display in
the trip meter and odometer can be changed to
display either kilometers or miles. The current display
mode will be shown as “KM” or “MP”. To change, hold
in the mode button until the letters flash, then press
and release the button once. When the display stops
flashing, the mode has been set.
MP = Miles
Km = Kilometers
NOTE: As long as you are in the diagnostic mode, the
wrench icon will remain lit.
NOTE: To leave the diagnostic mode, turn the key
switch off and on.
NOTE: Any movement of the tires will trigger the
speedometer out of the diagnostic mode and into
standard display mode.
EFI DIAGNOSTIC MODE
NOTE: The EFI diagnostic mode is intended to
quickly view fault codes stored in the EFI module.
Polaris dealers are equipped with the proper
diagnostic tools to further diagnose the blink code.
To download blink codes (failure codes) from you EFI
module:
1. Be sure the ATV key switch is off and with the
shifter is in Park.
2. Turn the key switch ON and OFF 3 times within 5
seconds and leave the key switch in the ON
position on the third turn.
ON
OFF
ELECTRICAL
10.7
3. The word “Wait” will appear, the EFI module is
now searching for blink codes. If any blink codes
are stored they will display on the instrument
cluster one at a time. NOTE: The check engine
icon will flash during this mode.
This picture is an example of
how a failure code appears.
4. The word “End” will display after all of the codes
have been displayed.
Blink Code Identification Table
Blink
Code Failure Description Blink
Code Failure Descrip-
tion
-No RPM Signal 54 Engine Temp
Lamp: Open
Load
21 Loss of Syn-
chronization 54 Engine Temp
Lamp: Short
Circuit to
Ground
45 Barometric
Pressure Sen-
sor: Circuit Low
Input
54 Engine Temp
Lamp: Short
Circuit to Bat-
tery
46 Barometric
Pressure Sen-
sor: Circuit High
Input
55 Diag Lamp:
Open Load
22 TPS: Open or
Short Circuit to
Ground
55 Diag Lamp:
Short Circuit
to Ground
22 TPS: Short Cir-
cuit to Battery 55 Diag Lamp:
Short Circuit
to
Battery
23 RAM Error: De-
fective ECU 56 Pump Relay:
Open Load
42 Engine Temp
Sensor Circuit:
Short to Ground
56 Pump Relay:
Short Circuit
to Ground
42 Engine Temp
Sensor Circuit:
Open or Short
to Battery
56 Pump Relay:
Short Circuit
to Battery
51 Injector 1: Open
Load 58 Cooling Fan:
Open Load
51 Injector 1: Short
Circuit to
Ground
58 Cooling Fan:
Short Circuit
to Ground
51 Injector 1: Short
Circuit to Bat-
tery
58 Cooling Fan:
Short Circuit
to Battery
52 Injector 2: Open
Load 41 Intake Air
Temp Sensor:
Open or Short
Circuit to
+Sensor Volt-
age
52 Injector 2: Short
Circuit to
Ground
41 Intake Air
Temp Sensor:
Short Circuit
to Ground
52 Injector 2: Short
Circuit to Bat-
tery
61 END of Check
ELECTRICAL
10.8
SPEEDOMETER REMOVAL
1. Remove the three screws that secure the
headlight pod cover and disconnect the wire
connectors from the instrument cluster.
2. Push the instrument cluster out from the backside
of the pod, while securely holding the pod.
Bezel Instrument Cluster
Pod
Push Instrument
Cluster Outward
Rubber Mount
NOTE: Do not remove the rubber grommet in the pod.
Only remove the rubber grommet if necessary. The
bezel is a snap--on assembly and is a serviceable
part.
SPEEDOMETER INSTALLATION
1. Spray a soap and water mixture onto the outer
surface area of the instrument cluster. This will
help the instrument cluster slide into the pod
assembly more easily.
2. Be sure the rubber grommet inside the pod is fully
installed and that the indexing key is in the
headlight pod keyway.
Align Index Points
3. Hold the pod assembly securely and insert the
instrument cluster into the pod assembly. Twist
the instrument cluster gently in a clockwise
motion to properly seat the instrument cluster into
the pod assembly. Apply pressure on the bezel
while pressing down on the instrument cluster.
NOTE: Do not allow alcohol or petroleum products to
come in contact with the instrument cluster lens.
CHECK
INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER
PROCEED
TO TEST 2
-- KEY SWITCH ON
-- TRANSMISSION IN LOW
--AWDSWITCHON
-- INSTRUMENT CLUSTER IN
DIAGNOSTIC MODE SET TO
AWD DIAGNOSTIC SCREEN
N
Y
TEST 1 -- NO ALL WHEEL DRIVE Note: If AWD icon comes on, instru-
ment cluster is O.K. Proceed to me-
chanical tests (in Service Manual).
Check the AWD icon on instrument clus-
ter to verify it’s operation. The AWD
switch is directly powered by switched
12 volts (red/white). The gear switch
only interfaces with the instrument clus-
ter. To enable AWD, the cluster must be
displaying low or high gear, or reverse
gear with the override button pushed in.
START HERE -- ENGINE OFF
ON HUB COIL
CONNECTOR
(LEAVE IT CONNECTED)
MEASURE FOR 12V FROM
BROWN/WHITE TO
GROUND
NOT AN INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER PROBLEM;
CHECK AWD SWITCH
AND WIRING
N
LEAVE AWD
DISCONNECT 16 PIN
CONNECTOR FROM CLUSTER
CHECK FOR 12V
FROM BRN/WHITE
TO GROUND
Y
Y
SWITCH ON
RECONNECT CLUSTER
LEAVE HEADLIGHT POD
DISASSEMBLED
SHIFT TO LOW OR HIGH
LEAVE AWD ON
YREMOVE THROTTLE
CONTROL COVER
CHECK FOR CONTINUITY
ACROSS AWD
SWITCH
Y
REPLACE
INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER
PROCEED TO
IF AWD PROBLEM
PERSISTS.
MECHANICAL AWD
COMPONENTS
N
WIRING
PROBLEM
N
TURN KEY SWITCH OFF
TURN KEY SWITCH ON
TURN KEY SWITCH OFF
LEAVE KEY
SWITCH OFF
DISCONNECT THROTTLE
CONTROL HARNESS
Note: Reversing polarity when connecting
the battery or other DC power source will
fail the AWD control and the instrument
cluster If the key switch and the AWD
switch are turned on.
1. Red-- 12V Ignition Switch
2. Red/White-- 12V ETC and AWD Switch
3. Grey/Orange-- Mode/Override button
4. Black-- Ignition Kill
5. Green-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
6. Blue-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
7. Yellow/Red-- RPM Input
8. Brown-- Ground
9. Blue White-- Engine Overheat Switch
10. N/C
11. Black/White-- Engine Check Light
12. Purple/White-- Fuel Sender (if equipped)
13. Brown/Red-- Trans Switch Ground
14. White-- Gear Shift Signal
15. White/Blue-- High Gear Signal
16. Brown/White-- AWD Coil
16 Pin Connector
MECHANICAL
PROBLEM
TURN ON AWD
SWITCH
DOES CLUSTER
SHOW
“ON”?
CLUSTER
READOUT
OK?
N
ELECTRICAL
10.9
SPEEDOMETER TROUBLESHOOTING
REPLACE
SPEEDO
16PIN MEA-
SURE 12VDC
ON PINS 1
&8 AND 2 & 8
REPAIR
WIRING
ODOMETER
DISPLAY
KEY&STOP
SWITCHES ON
TEST
DRIVE
VEHICLE
ODOMETER
CHANGE? POINTER
MOVE?
SPEEDO
OK
REPLACE
SPEEDO
POINTER
MOVE?
REPLACE
SPEEDO
CHECK
WHEEL
SPEED
SENSOR
(SEE
TEST 6)
CHECK
SENSOR
POWER
SUPPLY
PIN A
AT BACK OF SPEEDO:
CHECK FOR 10--12
VDCONPINATOPIN
C ON THE 3 PIN CON-
NECTOR?
REPLACE
SPEEDO
REPLACE
SPEEDO
CHECK FOR
MINIMUM 6VDC
ON PIN B TO
PIN C
TEST 2 -- NO SPEEDOMETER AND/OR ODOMETER DISPLAY
YN
N
Y
Y
Y
YN
N
N
Y
NN
START HERE
S
S
S
MEASURE
BACK OF
SPEEDO WITH
CONNECTORS
PLUGGED IN
A: D.C. Power
B: Signal
C: Ground
3 Pin Connector
TEST 3 -- NO REVERSE SPEED LIMIT
IS THE SPEEDO
READ OUT
CHECK
SPEEDOMETER
(PERFORM TEST 2)
N
OK?
Y
REMOVE 16 PIN PLUG
FROM BACK OF
SPEEDOMETER HEAD
SHIFT INTO REVERSE:
IS REVERSE INDICA-
TOR ON?
Y
(VEHICLE EXCEEDS 7--9 MPH IN REVERSE)
TEST TRANSMISSION
SWITCH, SHIFT MODULE
AND WIRING
N
REPLACE
SPEEDO
JUMPER TO PIN 4
(BLACK) TO PIN 8
(BROWN). DOES
ENGINE STOP?
INSPECT WIRING
AND CDI
N
Y
HMeasure Harness
Side
H
NOTE: Mode/Override button provides a grounding (sink-
ing) input to the instrument cluster.
TURN KEY SWITCH OFF
RESTART ATV
START HERE
16 Pin Connector
1. Red-- 12V Ignition Switch
2. Red/White-- 12V ETC and AWD Switch
3. Grey/Orange-- Mode/Override button
4. Black-- Ignition Kill
5. Green-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
6. Blue-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
7. Yellow/Red-- RPM Input
8. Brown-- Ground
9. Blue White-- Engine Overheat Switch
10. N/C
11. Black/White-- Engine Check Light
12. Purple/White-- Fuel Sender (if equipped)
13. Brown/Red-- Trans Switch Ground
14. White-- Gear Shift Signal
15. White/Blue-- High Gear Signal
16. Brown/White-- AWD Coil
Y
SWITCH CLUSTER TO
DIAGNOSTIC MODE
GEAR SWITCH DIAGNOSTIC
REPLACE
SPEEDO
IS
RESISTANCE
READING
CORRECT?
(PG 10.7)
N
Y
ELECTRICAL
10.10
SPEEDOMETER TROUBLESHOOTING
1. RAISE ATV WHEELS OFF GROUND AND
SUPPORT IN A SAFE MANNER.
2. MONITOR VOLTAGE AT HUB COIL
CONNECTOR, BETWEEN BROWN/WHITE
AND GROUND
ATV IN NEUTRAL
ACTIVATE DIAGNOSTIC
MODE. TOGGLE TO TACH--
OMETER SETTING & REV ENGINE.
HOLD UNTIL DISPLAY STABILIZES.
DOES IT APPEAR
ACCURATE?
IS
SPEEDO
FUNCTIONING
CORRECTLY?
YCHECK
SPEEDO
(TEST NO. 2)
REMOVE 16 PIN
CONNECTOR FROM
BACK OF
INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER.
ENGINE IDLING
MEASURE AC VOLTAGE
BETWEEN PIN 7 AND
PIN 8.
OVER 3 VAC?
YREPLACE
SPEEDOMETER
N
CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM
(STATOR, REGULATOR,
AND WIRING)
N
TURN
AWD OFF.
START THE ENGINE
REV AND HOLD THE
RPM’S ABOVE 3100.
TURN AWD ON.
DOES FRONT
DRIVE
ENGAGE?
IS THE
AWDICONON?
MECHANICAL PROBLEM
N
INSPECT
HUB COIL WIRING
FOR SHORT CIRCUITS
TO GROUND. (DISCONNECT
CONNECTOR & MEASURE
BETWEEN HUB COIL
BROWN/WHT
& GROUND.)
REPAIR HUB COIL WIRING
REPLACE
SPEEDOMETER
NO PROBLEM
N
N
Y
Y
Y
NOTE: IF THE AWD ICON DOES NOT COME ON OR IF 12
VDC IS NOT REGISTERING AND AWD IS ENGAGING
ABOVE 3100 RPM,IT MAY BE A MECHANICAL PROBLEM.
TEST 4 -- NO AWD HUB SAFETY LIMIT
N
START HERE
TURN KEY SWITCH OFF
RESTART ATV
Y
16 Pin Connector
1. Red-- 12V Ignition Switch
2. Red/White-- 12V ETC and AWD Switch
3. Grey/Orange-- Mode/Override button
4. Black-- Ignition Kill
5. Green-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
6. Blue-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
7. Yellow/Red-- RPM Input
8. Brown-- Ground
9. Blue White-- Engine Overheat Switch
10. N/C
11. Black/White-- Engine Check Light
12. Purple/White-- Fuel Sender (if equipped)
13. Brown/Red-- Trans Switch Ground
14. White-- Gear Shift Signal
15. White/Blue-- High Gear Signal
16. Brown/White-- AWD Coil
ELECTRICAL
10.11
SPEEDOMETER TROUBLESHOOTING
CHECK
SPEEDOMETER
INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER FUNC-
TION OK?
CHECK FUEL &
IGNITION SYSTEMS
REPLACE
SPEEDOMETER
N
Y
TEST 5 REVERSE SPEED LIMITER ACTIVATED IN FORWARD GEAR
REMOVE 16 PIN
PLUG FROM BACK OF
INSTRUMENT
(PERFORM TEST 2)
PROBLEM
REMAINS?
SHIFT TO LOW OR HIGH
GEARS. IS REVERSE INDICA-
TORICONONORGEARON?
(Engine loses spark when vehicle speed is above 7-9 mph.)
CHECK TRANSMISSION
SWITCH, RESISTOR MODULE
AND RELATED WIRING
TEST 6 WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
Tools Required:
GStatic Timing Light Harness (PN 2871745)
GHall Sensor Probe Harness (PN 2460761) or
equivalent jumper wires.
To test wheel speed sensor:
1. Disconnect 3 Pin connector from speedometer.
2. Connect wires from test light to sensor 3 Pin
connector as shown at right, using the Hall Sensor
Probe Harness (PN 2460761) or jumper leads.
3. Elevate front right side of vehicle until tire is off the
ground.
4. Slowly turn right front wheel while observing the
test light.
5. If light flashes, sensor is O.K. Be sure connections
are good and 9 volt battery is in good condition.
12V
-- +
Static Timing Light Harness
LED
Brn To Sensor Red
To Sensor
White
To Sensor
Black
680ΩWht
Blk
START HERE
(PN 2871745)
Y
N
CLUSTER
NOTE: OVERRIDE SWITCH PLAYS NO ROLE IN
REVERSE GEAR OUTPUT
Y
TURN KEY SWITCH OFF
RESTART ATV AND
TEST DRIVE
DOES GEAR INDICATOR
GO BLANK?
16 Pin Connector
1. Red-- 12V Ignition Switch
2. Red/White-- 12V ETC and AWD Switch
3. Grey/Orange-- Mode/Override button
4. Black-- Ignition Kill
5. Green-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
6. Blue-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
7. Yellow/Red-- RPM Input
8. Brown-- Ground
9. Blue White-- Engine Overheat Switch
10. N/C
11. Black/White-- Engine Check Light
12. Purple/White-- Fuel Sender (if equipped)
13. Brown/Red-- Trans Switch Ground
14. White-- Gear Shift Signal
15. White/Blue-- High Gear Signal
16. Brown/White-- AWD Coil
ELECTRICAL
10.12
SPEEDOMETER TROUBLESHOOTING
15. White/Blue-- High Gear Signal
CHECK
SPEEDOMETERINSTRUMENT
CLUSTER FUNC-
TION OK?
REPLACE
SPEEDOMETER
N
Y
TEST 7 FUEL GAUGE DISPLAY NOT WORKING
GAIN ACCESS TO FUEL
SENDER WIRING
(PERFORM TEST 2)
REPAIR
WIRES AS
REQUIRED
AND RE-
TEST
GAIN ACCESS TO
BACK OF GAUGE
CHECK CONNECTION
AT GAUGE (PIN #12)
CLEAN CONNECTOR TERMINALS
CHECK RELATED WIRING
START HERE
Y
N
Y
16 Pin Connector
TURN KEY SWITCH OFF
CHECK FOR CONTINUITY ON
PURPLE/WHT
DOES FUEL INDICATOR
WORK?
1. Red-- 12V Ignition Switch
2. Red/White-- 12V ETC and AWD Switch
3. Grey/Orange-- Mode/Override button
4. Black-- Ignition Kill
5. Green-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
6. Blue-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
7. Yellow/Red-- RPM Input
8. Brown-- Ground
9. Blue White-- Engine Overheat Switch
10. N/C
11. Black/White-- Engine Check Light
12. Purple/White-- Fuel Sender (if equipped)
13. Brown/Red-- Trans Switch Ground
14. White-- Gear Shift Signal
15. White/Blue-- High Gear Signal
16. Brown/White-- AWD Coil
16 Pin Connector
N
CHECK FOR CONTINUITY
FROM BRN TO GROUND
ARE WIRES OK?
TEST SENDER FOR PROPER OPERATION
REFER TO TEST PROCEDURES IS IT OK?
Y
WIRES FIXED BUT
PROBLEM REMAINS ?
REPLACE TANK ASSEMBLY
N
TEST 8 SHIFT INDICATOR NOT WORKING (TRANSMISSION SWITCH)
Operation:
The Instrument cluster sends a signal through the White wire
to the resistor module. This signal completes it’s path on the
Brown/Red wire through the transmission switch. Depending
on the transmission switch position, the Instrument cluster
interprets the resistance reading and displays the corre-
sponding shift position in the LCD panel.
Testing:
Use the diagram provided to test the continuity loop at each
of the shift points with a multi--meter. NOTE: The Instrument
cluster contains this diagnostic feature.
1. Red-- 12V Ignition Switch
2. Red/White-- 12V ETC and AWD Switch
3. Grey/Orange-- Mode/Override button
4. Black-- Ignition Kill
5. Green-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
6. Blue-- Diagnostic (Factory Use Only)
7. Yellow/Red-- RPM Input
8. Brown-- Ground
9. Blue White-- Engine Overheat Switch
10. N/C
11. Black/White-- Engine Check Light
12. Purple/White-- Fuel Sender (if equipped)
13. Brown/Red-- Trans Switch Ground
14. White-- Gear Shift Signal
16. Brown/White-- AWD Coil
Y
ELECTRICAL
10.13
SPEEDOMETER TROUBLESHOOTING
ELECTRICAL
10.14
COOLANT TEMPERATURE
SENSOR
The coolant temperature sensor can be tested using an
ohmeter or voltmeter.
1. With the engine and temperature sensor at room
temperature (68°F=20°C), disconnect the
harness connector.
2. With the meter in the ohms mode, place the meter
leads onto the sensor contacts. One lead on
Yellow wire and one lead on the Violet wire.
3. Use the table Temperature / Resistance table to
determine if the sensor needs to be replaced.
Temperature °F(°C) Resistance
68°F(20°C) 2.5 kΩ±6%
212°F (100°C) 0.186 kΩ±2%
NOTE: If the coolant temperature sensor or circuit
malfunctions the radiator fan will default to ’ON’.
NOTE: The fan may not function or operation may be
delayed if coolant level is low or if air is trapped in the
cooling system. Be sure cooling system is full and
purged of air. Refer to Maintenance Chapter 2 for
cooling system information.
FAN CONTROL CIRCUIT
OPERATION / TESTING
Power is supplied to the fan via the Orange/Black wire
when the relay is ON. The ground path for the fan
motor is through the Brown harness wire. Refer to
page 10.20 for more information on Fan Relay
functions.
CAUTION: Keep hands away from fan blades
during operation. Serious personal injury could
result.
NOTE: The fan may not function or operation may be
delayed if coolant level is low or if air is trapped in the
cooling system. Be sure cooling system is full and
purged of air. Refer to Maintenance Chapter 2 for
cooling system information.
FAN CONTROL CIRCUIT
BYPASS TEST
1. Disconnect harness from coolant temperature
sensor on engine.
2. With the ATV in “Park” and with the parking brake
on, turn the ignition key (and engine stop switch)
“ON”. The fan should start running.
3. If the fan does not run or runs slowly, check the fan
motor wiring, ground, motor condition and
mechanical relay for proper operation (refer to
’Fan Motor Current Draw’ this section). Repair or
replace as necessary. If the fan runs with the
sensor harness disconnected, but will not turn on
when the engine is hot, check the coolant
temperature sensor and connector terminals.
FAN MOTOR CURRENT DRAW
A current draw test will provide a good indication of fan
motor condition. A worn or damaged fan motor will
draw more current, which causes a reduction in blade
speed and reduced cooling.
Fan Motor
Connect ammeter
between Or/Blk pins
Or/Blk
Fan
Harness
Or/Blk
Brn
1. Disconnect the harness from the coolant sensor.
2. Connect a DC ammeter in between the fan switch
harness wires as shown.
3. Be sure fan blade is free to rotate.
4. Turn ignition key and engine stop switch to “ON”
position. Read the current draw on ammeter with
fan running.
5. If the fan motor draws more than 15 Amps,
replace the motor.
Fan Motor Current Draw:
Should Be Less Than 15 Amps
NOTE: This fan motor current draw specification only
applies to Sportsman EFI models.
ELECTRICAL
10.15
ELECTRONIC THROTTLE
CONTROL (ETC) SWITCH
The Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) system is
designed to stop the engine of an ATV in the event of
a mechanical problem with the throttle mechanism.
The ETC switch is mounted independently of the
throttle actuator lever inside the throttle block
assembly. Thisisanormally closed switch, and is
held in the open position (contacts are separated (as
shown below) by throttle cable tension. The contacts
are “open” during normal operation regardless of
throttle lever position. In the event of a mechanical
problem in the throttle mechanism (cable tension is
lost), the switch contacts close, connecting the black
wire to ground, which prevents ignition spark. This is
the same as turning the key or engine stop switch
“OFF”.
NOTE: Test the ETC switch at the harness connector.
ETC will not activate unless there is throttle plate
movement off of ’zero’ detected by the ECU. Adjust
throttle cable freeplay (ETC switch) and make sure
throttle mechanism is functioning properly before
testing the switch. Refer to Maintenance Chapter 2
for cable adjustment procedure.
ETC OPERATION TEST
Remove throttle block cover by carefully releasing all
tabs around edge of cover.
Place transmission in neutral and apply parking
brake.
Start engine and open throttle lever slightly until
engine RPM is just above idle speed.
Hold throttle cable with fingers at point “A” as shown
below and release throttle lever. If the ETC system is
functioning properly, the engine will lose spark and
stop.
Switch contacts are open
during normal operation
A
ETC switch contacts are
closed in a fault condition
(throttle cable slack).
Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) Switch
(Composite Throttle Housing)
Brn
Blk
Brn
CDI UNIT
ELECTRICAL
10.16
FLYWHEEL IDENTIFICATION
Production Date Part Number
Kokusan EFI Flywheel
Timing Marks
A
Flywheel Identification Stamp Location
The flywheel can be identified by the stamp mark in location A. Refer to “I.D.” location in chart below. Do not
use the cast mark to determine flywheel application.
Engine
Application Cast Stamp Comment
Kokusan Flywheel 4010912 NA 500 W
EFI -- DC / CDI IGNITION
The Sportsman EFI system has incorporated into it’s
design a DC/ CDI ignition system.
Some of the advantages of DC ignition are:
GStronger, more consistent spark at
low rpm for better performance
GEasier starts
GSimpler component design for ease
trouble shooting and maintenance
Operation Overview:
The DC/CDI system relies on battery power for ignition.
Instead of generating DC voltage via magnetic
induction, a 12 volt DC current is supplied directly to the
ECU from the battery. 12 volt DC current charges an
internal capacitor to build up the initial ignition charge.
An A/C signal from the Crank Shaft Position Sensor
is processed by the ECU, which determines ignition
timing by calculating from a point pre--determined in
the crankshaft rotation. This signal releases the
electrical charge which saturates the coil for ignition.
DC/CDI systems have the ability to ignite with as little
as 6 volts of power.
NOTE:
DC/CDI systems and compo-
nents are not interchangeable
with any other system. Timing curve
shown is not indicative of EFI ignition operation.
ELECTRICAL
10.17
COMPONENTS OF EFI 500 WATT ALTERNATOR/IGNITION
SYSTEM
Solenoid Switch
(starter switch)
Stator Assembly
Flywheel
(Steering Post Area)
Crank Position Sensor
Ignition Coils
Coil Wires
Spark Plugs
Relays
Voltage Regulator
Control Module
Pre--Wire Winch Cables
30 Amp Hr. Battery
Negative Battery Cable
Battery to Solenoid Cable
Solenoid to Starter Cable
Fuses
ELECTRICAL
10.18
IGNITION SYSTEM
TROUBLESHOOTING
No Spark, Weak or Intermittent Spark
GSpark plug gap incorrect
GFouled spark plug
GFaulty spark plug cap or poor
connection to high tension lead
GRelated wiring loose, disconnected,
shorted, or corroded
GEngine Stop switch or ignition
switch faulty
GETC switch misadjusted or faulty
GWire harness or connections wet,
corroded
GPoor ignition coil ground (e.g. coil
mount loose or corroded)
GIncorrect wiring (inspect color
coding in connectors etc)
GFaulty ignition coil winding
(measure resistance of primary and
secondary)
GSheared flywheel key
GFlywheel loose or damaged
GFaulty ECU
CURRENT DRAW - KEY OFF
CAUTION: Do not connect or disconnect the battery
cable or ammeter with the engine running. Damage
will occur to electrical components.
Connect an ammeter in series with the negative
battery cable. Check for current draw with the key off.
If the draw is excessive, loads should be
disconnected from the system one by one until the
draw is eliminated. Check component wiring as well
as the component for partial shorts to ground to
eliminate the draw.
Refer to Illustration 1 on the next page.
--+
Current Draw Inspection
Key Off
YB30L--B
Ill. 1
Current Draw - Key Off:
Maximum of .01 DCA (10 mA)
ELECTRICAL
10.19
CHARGING SYSTEM “BREAK
EVEN” TEST
CAUTION: Do not allow the battery cables to
become disconnected with the engine running.
Follow the steps below as outlined to reduce the
chance of damage to electrical components.
The “break even” point of the charging system is the
point at which the alternator overcomes all system
loads (lights, etc.) and begins to charge the battery.
Depending on battery condition and system load, the
break even point may vary slightly. The battery should
be fully charged before performing this test.
WARNING: Never start the engine with an ammeter
connected in series. Damage to the meter or meter
fuse will result. Do not run test for extended period of
time. Do not run test with high amperage accessories.
1. Connect a tachometer to the engine.
2. Using an inductive amperage metering device,
(set to DC amps) connect to the negative battery
cable
3. With engine off and the key, kill switch, and lights
in the ON position, the ammeter should read
negative amps (battery discharge). Reverse
meter lead if a positive reading is indicated.
4. Shift transmission into Park and start the engine.
With the engine running at idle, observe meter
readings.
5. Increase engine RPM while observing ammeter
and tachometer.
6. Note RPM at which the battery starts to charge
(ammeter indication is positive).
7. With lights and other electrical loads off, the
“break even” point should occur at approximately
1500 RPM or lower.
8. With the engine running, turn the lights on and
engage parking brake lock to keep brake light on.
9. Repeat test, observing ammeter and tachometer.
With lights on, charging should occur at or below
2000 RPM.
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT TEST
Threetestscanbeperformedusingamultimeterto
determine the condition of the stator (alternator).
Y1 Y2
Y3
TEST 1: Resistance Value of Each Stator Leg
1. Measure the resistance value of each of the three
stator legs: Y1 to Y2, Y1 to Y3, and Y2 to Y3.
Each should measure 0.19 Ω±15 %.
Test Connect Meter
Wires To: Reading In
Ohms
Charge Coil Y1 to Y2 0.19 Ω±15%
Charge Coil Y1 to Y3 0.19 Ω±15 %
Charge Coil Y2 to Y3 0.19 Ω±15 %
Charge Coil Y1, Y2, or Y3
to Ground Open (Infinity)
NOTE: If there are any significant variations in ohm’s
readings between the three legs; it is an indication that
one of the three stator legs maybe weak or failed.
TEST 2: Resistance Value of Stator Leg to Ground
1. Measure the resistance value of each of the stator
legs to ground: Y1 to Ground, Y2 to Ground, Y3 to
Ground.
NOTE: Any measurement other than Infinity (open)
will indicate a failed or shorted stator leg.
ELECTRICAL
10.20
TEST 3: Measure AC Voltage Output of Each
Stator Leg at Charging RPM
1. Set the selector dial to measure AC Voltage.
2. Start the engine and let it idle.
3. While holding the ATV at a specified RPM,
separately measure the voltage across each ’leg’
of the stator by connecting the meter leads to the
wires leading from the alternator (Y1 to Y2, Y1 to
Y3,Y2toY3).
4. Refer to the table below for approximate Voltage
AC readings according to RPM. Test each leg at
the specified RPM in the table. Example:The
alternator current output reading should be
approximately 18 Vac at 1300 RPM between
each ’leg’.
NOTE: If one or more of the stator leg output AC
voltage varies significantly from the specified value,
the stator may need to be replaced.
ATV RPM
Reading AC Voltage (Vac)
Reading
1300 18 Vac ±25 %
3000 42 Vac ±25 %
5000 64 Vac ±25 %
RELAYS
These relays, located next to the ECU, assist with
component operation such as the fan, fuel pump, etc.
The fan relay, controlled by the ECU, operates the fan.
The power relay, controlled by the ECU, turns on
power for components such as the fuel pump,
injectors, etc.
Fused 20--amp, unswitched FAN power supply.
Fan ’ON’ Command. Ground is supplied by the ECU,
closing the relay to turn on the fan.
KEY--ON Battery power supply, switched on by the key
and LH control switches, enables power to relay.
Relay ’ON’ command. The ECU supplies a ground
which closes the relay, supplying power to run the fuel
pump, injectors, etc.
EFI power output. ’ON’ when ECU sends a signal on the
GRY/W wire, closing the relay. Supplies 15--amp power
for ECU--controlled operation of EFI components.
Fused 15--amp, unswitched battery power IN supply for
EFI component operation.
Fan power output. ’ON’ when the ECU sends a signal
on the Y/BLK wire, closing the relay. Supplies 20--amp
power for fan operation.
RED
YELLOW / BLK
RED / WHITE
FAN RELAY
POWER RELAY
ORANGE/BLK
RED / WHITE KEY--ON Battery power supply, switched on by the
key and LH control switches, enables power to relay.
Tied to Fan Relay terminal.
GRAY/WHITE
ORANGE
RED/BLK
ELECTRICAL
10.21
CHARGING SYSTEM TESTING FLOW CHART
Whenever charging system problems are suspected, proceed with the following system check after verifying that
all wires are in good condition, connected and not kinked or pinched.
Check for owner modification, and
discuss operating habits. The battery
will continually discharge if operated
below the “Break Even” RPM. Con-
tinued problems would call for battery
inspection.
Disconnect the wires from the regulator/rec-
tifier. Using a multitester, perform an Alter-
nator Output (AC amp) test. See test pro-
cedure on Page 10.20 for procedure.
Is output above 7 amps?
Inspect the wiring harness be-
tween the panel and the stator for
damage. If no damage is found,
remove the recoil and flywheel.
Inspect the flywheel magnets, sta-
tor coils and stator wire harness
for damage. Repair or replace
any damaged components.
Reconnect the alternator wires. Note: Red
wire must be connected to harness. Battery
voltage must be present on red wire terminal
on harness side of voltage regulator connector.
Is it?
Check regulator/rectifier connections
and ground, battery connections, cir-
cuit breaker and connecting wires.
Repair or replace faulty wiring or
components.
If all of the previous tests indicate a
good condition, but the charging voltage
does not rise above battery voltage at the
connector or wire harness, replace the volt-
age regulator.
No
Yes
No
Yes
Perform “Break Even Amperage Test”
Does charging occur as specified?
Using a multitester set on D.C. volts, mea-
sure the battery open circuit voltage (See
earlier test). It should be 12.4 volts or
more. Is it?
Remove the battery and properly ser-
vice. Reinstall the fully charged battery
or a fully charged shop battery.
With the transmission in Park, start the en-
gine and increase RPM to between 3000 and
4000. Read battery voltage with the multi-
tester. Readings should increase to between
13.0 and 14.6 V D.C. Are they?
No
Yes
No
Yes Check Key off Current Draw
No
Meter Setting: AC Amps
Meter Setting: DC Amps
Meter Setting: DC Volts
Meter Setting: DC Volts
Yes
Ohm stator wires If bad, replace stator. If good,
continue with alternator output test.
ELECTRICAL
10.22
BATTERY IDENTIFICATION
NOTICE: It is important to identify what type of
battery you have installed in your ATV. Different types
of batteries require different service procedures.
Proper servicing and upkeep of your battery is very
important for maintaining long battery life.
Your ATV may have a Conventional Battery or a
Sealed Low Maintenance Battery. To identify which
type of battery your ATV has, refer to the illustration
below and follow the correct service and charging
procedures that follow in the manual.
CONVENTIONAL BATTERY
Removable
Caps
Electrolyte Level
Indicator
Top View
Side View
SEALED LOW
MAINTENANCE BATTERY
No Caps
(Non--removable
sealed top)
No Electrolyte
Level Indicator
Top View
Side View
BATTERY ACTIVATION
(CONVENTIONAL)
WARNING
Battery electrolyte is poisonous. It contains
sulfuric acid. Serious burns can result from con-
tact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote:
External: Flush with water.
Internal: Drink large quantities of water or milk.
Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg, or
vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.
Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get
prompt medical attention.
Batteries produce explosive gases. Keep
sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away. Ventilate
when charging or using in an enclosed space.
Always shield eyes when working near batter-
ies. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
WARNING: The gases given off by a battery are
explosive. Any spark or open flame near a battery can
cause an explosion which will spray battery acid on
anyone close to it. Should there be contact with
battery acid, wash the affected area with large
quantities of cool water and seek immediate medical
attention.
To ensure maximum service life and performance
from a new battery, perform the following steps.
NOTE: Do not service the battery unless it will be put
into regular service within 30 days. After initial
service, add only distilled water to the battery.
Never add electrolyte after a battery has been in
service.
NOTE: New Battery: Battery must be fully charged
before use or battery life will be significantly reduced
10-30% of the battery’s full potential.
To activate a new battery:
1. Remove vent plug from vent fitting. Remove cell
caps.
2. Fill battery with electrolyte to upper level marks on
case.
3. Set battery aside to allow for acid absorption and
stabilization for 30 minutes.
4. Add electrolyte to bring level back to upper level
mark on case. NOTE: This is the last time that
electrolyte should be added. If the level becomes
low after this point, add only distilled water.
ELECTRICAL
10.23
5. Charge battery at 1/10 of its amp/hour rating.
Examples: 1/10 of 9 amp battery = .9 amp; 1/10
of 14 amp battery = 1.4 amp; 1/10 of 18 amp
battery = 1.8 amp (recommended charging
rates).
6. Check specific gravity of each cell with a
hydrometer to assure each has a reading of 1.270
or higher.
BATTERY
TERMINALS/TERMINAL BOLTS
Use Polaris corrosion resistant Nyogeltgrease (PN
2871329) on battery bolts. SeeBattery Installationon
Page 10.23.
CONVENTIONAL BATTERY
INSPECTION/REMOVAL
The battery is located under the seat.
Inspect the battery fluid level. When the battery fluid
nears the lower level, remove the battery and fill with
distilled water only to the upper level line. To remove
the battery:
Maintain
between upper
and lower level
marks
1. Disconnect holder strap and remove covers.
2. Disconnect battery negative (-) (black) cable first,
followed by the positive (+) (red) cable.
CAUTION
Whenever removing or reinstalling the battery,
disconnect the negative (black) cable first and
reinstall the negative cable last!
3. Remove the battery.
4. Remove the filler caps and add distilled water
only as needed to bring each cell to the proper
level. Do not overfill the battery.
Refill using only distilled water. Tap water
contains minerals which are harmful to a battery.
Do not allow cleaning solution or tap water inside
the battery. Battery life may be reduced.
5. Reinstall the battery caps.
CONVENTIONAL BATTERY
INSTALLATION
1. Clean battery cables and terminals with a stiff wire
brush. Corrosion can be removed using a solution
of one cup water and one tablespoon baking soda.
Rinse well with clean water and dry thoroughly.
2. Route the cables correctly.
3. Reinstall battery, attaching positive (+) (red) cable
first and then the negative (-) (black) cable. Coat
terminals and bolt threads with NyogeltGrease
(PN 2871329).
4. Install clear battery vent tube from vehicle to battery
vent. WARNING: Vent tube must be free from
obstructions and kinks and securely installed. If not,
battery gases could accumulate and cause an
explosion. The vent tube should be routed away
from frame and body to prevent contact with
ELECTRICAL
10.24
electrolyte. Avoid skin contact with electrolyte, as
severe burns could result. If electrolyte contacts the
vehicle frame, corrosion will occur.
5. Reinstall the holder strap.
CONVENTIONAL BATTERY
TESTING
Whenever a service complaint is related to either the
starting or charging systems, the battery should be
checked first.
Following are three tests which can easily be made on
a battery to determine its condition: OCV Test,
Specific Gravity Test and Load Test.
CONVENTIONAL BATTERY
OCV - OPEN CIRCUIT
VOLTAGE TEST
Battery voltage should be checked with a digital
multitester. Readings of 12.6 volts or less require
further battery testing and charging. See charts and
Load Test on below.
NOTE: Lead-acid batteries should be kept at or near
a full charge as possible. Electrolyte level should be
kept between the low and full marks. If the battery is
stored or used in a partially charged condition, or with
low electrolyte levels, hard crystal sulfation will form
on the plates, reducing the efficiency and service life
of the battery.
CONVENTIONAL BATTERY
SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST
A tool such as a Battery Hydrometer (PN 2870836)
can be used to measure electrolyte strength or
specific gravity. As the battery goes through the
charge/discharge cycle, the electrolyte goes from a
heavy (more acidic) state at full charge to a light (more
water) state when discharged. The hydrometer can
measure state of charge and differences between
cells in a multi-cell battery. Readings of 1.270 or
greater should be observed in a fully charged battery.
Differences of more than .025 between the lowest and
highest cell readings indicate a need to replace the
battery.
Detail A
1.10
1.15
1.20
1.25
1.30
Battery Hydrometer (PN 2870836)
OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE
State of
charge Conventional
Lead-acid Low
Maintenance
100%
Charged
75% Charged
50% Charged
25% Charged
0% Charged
12.60V
12.40V
12.10V
11.90V
less than
11.80V
12.70V
12.50V
12.20V
12.0V
less than 11.9V
SPECIFIC GRAVITY
State of
charge* Conventional
lead-acid Low
Maintenence
100%
Charged
75% Charged
50% Charged
25% Charged
0% Charged
1.265
1.210
1.160
1.120
less than 1.100
1.275
1.225
1.175
1.135
less than 1.115
*At80_F
NOTE: Subtract .01 from the specific gravity reading at 40_F.
LOAD TEST
CAUTION: To prevent shock or component
damage, remove spark plug high tension leads
and connect securely to engine ground before
proceeding.
NOTE: This test can only be performed on machines
with electric starters. This test cannot be performed
with an engine or starting system that is not working
properly.
A battery may indicate a full charge condition in the OCV
test and the specific gravity test, but still may not have
the storage capacity necessary to properly function in
the electrical system. For this reason, a battery capacity
ELECTRICAL
10.25
or load test should be conducted whenever poor battery
performance is encountered. To perform this test, hook
a multitester to the battery in the same manner as was
done in the OCV test. The reading should be 12.6 volts
or greater. Engage the starter and observe the battery
voltage while cranking the engine. Continue the test for
15 seconds. During cranking the observed voltage
should not drop below 9.5 volts. If the beginning voltage
is 12.6 volts or higher and the cranking voltage drops
below 9.5 volts during the test, replace the battery.
OFF SEASON STORAGE
To prevent battery damage during extended periods
of non-use, the following basic battery maintenance
items must be performed:
GRemove the battery from the
machine and wash the case and
battery tray with a mild solution of
baking soda and water. Rinse with
lots of fresh water after cleaning.
NOTE: Do not get any of the baking
soda into the battery or the acid will
be neutralized.
GUsing a wire brush or knife, remove
any corrosion from the cables and
terminals.
GMake sure that the electrolyte is at
the proper level. Add distilled water
if necessary.
GCharge at a rate no greater than 1/10
of the battery’s amp/hr capacity until
the electrolyte’s specific gravity
reaches 1.270 or greater.
GStore the battery either in the
machine with the cables
disconnected, or store in a cool
place.
NOTE: Recharge to full capacity every 30 to 60 days
during a non-use period. If the battery is stored during
the winter months, electrolyte will freeze at higher
temperatures as the battery discharges. The chart
below indicates freezing points by specific gravity.
Electrolyte Freezing Points
Specific Gravity
of Electrolyte Freezing
Point
1.265 -75°F
1.225 -35°F
1.200 -17°F
1.150 +5°F
1.100 +18°F
1.050 +27°F
CHARGING PROCEDURE
1. Remove the battery from the ATV to prevent
damage from leaking or spilled acid during
charging.
2. Charge the battery with a charging output no
larger than 1/10 of the battery’s amp/hr rating.
Charge as needed to raise the specific gravity to
1.270 or greater.
3. Install battery in vehicle with positive terminal
toward the front. Coat threads of battery bolt with
a corrosion resistant dielectric grease.
Dielectric Grease
(PN 2871329)
4. Connect battery cables.
WARNING
To avoid the possibility of explosion, connect positive
(red) cable first and negative (black) cable last.
5. After connecting the battery cables, install the
cover on the battery and attach the hold down
strap.
6. Install clear battery vent tube from vehicle to
battery vent. WARNING: Vent tube must be free
from obstructions and kinks and securely
installed. If not, battery gases could accumulate
and cause an explosion. Vent should be routed
away from frame and body to prevent contact with
electrolyte. Avoid skin contact with electrolyte, as
severe burns could result. If electrolyte contacts
the vehicle frame, corrosion will occur.
7. Route cables so they are tucked away in front and
behind battery.
LOW MAINTENANCE
BATTERY
NOTE: All Low Maintenance batteries are fully
charged and tested at the factory before
installation. Expected shelf life varies on storage
conditions. As a general rule before placing the
battery into service, check the battery condition
and charge accordingly.
Battery Check:
1. Check the date label on the side of the battery to
calculate when to check voltage. The battery
should be checked every 3 months.
ELECTRICAL
10.26
2. Check the voltage with a voltmeter or multimeter.
A fully charged battery should be 12.8 V or
higher.
3. If the voltage is below 12.8 V, the battery will need
to be recharged.
New Batteries: Batteries must be fully charged
before use or battery life can be reduced by
10-30% of full potential.Charge battery for 3--5
hours using a variable rate charger. Do not use
the alternator to charge a new battery. A high rate
battery charger can cause battery damage.
Low Maintenance batteries are permanently
sealed at the time of manufacture. The use of
lead--calcium and AGM technology instead of
lead--antimony allows the battery acid to be fully
absorbed. For this reason, a Low Maintenance
battery case is dark and the cell caps are not
removable, since there is no need to check
electrolyte level.
NEVER attempt to add electrolyte or water to a Low
Maintenance battery. Doing so will damage the
case and shorten the life of the battery. Refer to the
Battery Activation and Maintenance Video (PN
9917987) for proper instruction on servicing Low
Maintenance batteries.
NOTE: New Batteries: Batteries must be fully
charged before use or battery life will be reduced
by 10-30% of full potential.Charge battery for 3--5
hours at a current equivalent of 1/10 of the
battery’s rated amp/hour capacity. Do not use the
alternator to charge a new battery. (Refer toBattery
Activation and Maintenance video PN 9917987)
NEVER attempt to add electrolyte or water to a Low
Maintenance battery. Doing so will damage the
case and shorten the life of the battery. Refer to the
Battery Maintenance Video (PN 9917987) for proper
instruction on servicing Low Maintenance
batteries.
To service a Low Maintenance battery:
1. Remove battery from the vehicle
2. Test battery with a voltage meter or load tester to
determine battery condition. This will determine
the length of time required to charge the battery to
full capacity. Refer to capacity table.
3. Charge battery using a variable rate charger.
LOW MAINTENANCE
BATTERY CHARGING
If battery voltage is 12.8 V or less, the battery may
need recharging. When using an automatic charger,
refer to the charger manufacturer’s instructions for
recharging. When using a constant current charger,
use the following guidelines for recharging.
NOTE: Always verify battery condition before and 1-2
hours after the end of charging.
WARNING: An overheated battery could explode,
causing severe injury or death. Always watch
charging times carefully. Stop charging if the battery
becomes very warm to the touch. Allow it to cool
before resuming charging.
Battery Charging Reference Table
State of
Charge Voltage Action Charge
Time (*See
note below)
100% 12.8--13 V None,
check volt-
age at 3
mos. after
manufac-
ture date
None Re-
quired
75--100% 12.5--12.8 V May need
slight
charge
3--6 hours
50--75% 12.0--12.5 V Needs
Charge 5--11 hours
25--50% 11.5--12.0 V Needs
Charge At least 13
hours,
verify state
of charge
0--25% 11.5 V or
less Needs
Charge At least 20
hours
ELECTRICAL
10.27
LOW MAINTENANCE
BATTERY INSPECTION/
REMOVAL
The battery is located under the seat.
1. Remove the seat and Disconnect holder strap.
2. Disconnect battery negative (-) (black) cable first,
followed by the positive (+) (red) cable.
CAUTION
Whenever removing or reinstalling the battery,
disconnect the negative (black) cable first and
reinstall the negative cable last!
3. Remove the battery.
LOW MAINTENANCE
BATTERY INSTALLATION
1. Clean battery cables and terminals with a stiff wire
brush. Corrosion can be removed using a
solution of one cup water and one tablespoon
baking soda. Rinse well with clean water and dry
thoroughly.
2. Route the cables correctly.
3. Reinstall battery, attaching positive (+) (red) cable
first and then the negative (-) (black) cable. Coat
terminals and bolt threads with NyogeltGrease
(PN 2871329).
4. Reinstall the holder strap.
LOW MAINTENANCE
BATTERY TESTING
Whenever a service complaint is related to either the
starting or charging systems, the battery should be
checked first.
Following are three tests which can easily be made on
a battery to determine its condition: OCV Test,
Specific Gravity Test and Load Test.
LOW MAINTENANCE
BATTERY -- OCV - OPEN
CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TEST
Battery voltage should be checked with a digital
multitester. Readings of 12.8 volts or less require
further battery testing and charging. See charts and
Load Test.
NOTE: Lead-acid batteries should be kept at or near
a full charge as possible. If the battery is stored or
used in a partially charged condition, or with low
electrolyte levels, hard crystal sulfation will form on
the plates, reducing the efficiency and service life of
the battery.
NOTE: Use a voltmeter or multimeter to test batter
voltage.
OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE
State of
charge Maintenance
Free Low
Maintenence
100%
75% Charged
50% Charged
25% Charged
0% Charged
13.0V
12.80V
12.50V
12.20V
less than 12.0V
12.70V
12.50V
12.20V
12.0V
less than 11.9V
*At80_F
NOTE: Subtract .01 from the specific gravity reading at 40_F.
ELECTRICAL
10.28
LOW MAINTENANCE
BATTERY LOAD TEST
CAUTION: To prevent shock or component
damage, remove spark plug high tension leads
and connect securely to engine ground before
proceeding.
NOTE: This test can only be performed on machines
with electric starters. This test cannot be performed
with an engine or starting system that is not working
properly.
A battery may indicate a full charge condition in the OCV
test and the specific gravity test, but still may not have
the storage capacity necessary to properly function in
the electrical system. For this reason, a battery capacity
or load test should be conducted whenever poor battery
performance is encountered. To perform this test, hook
a multitester to the battery in the same manner as was
done in the OCV test. The reading should be 12.6 volts
or greater. Engage the starter and observe the battery
voltage while cranking the engine. Continue the test for
15 seconds. During cranking the observed voltage
should not drop below 9.5 volts. If the beginning voltage
is 12.6 volts or higher and the cranking voltage drops
below 9.5 volts during the test, replace the battery.
LOW MAINTENANCE
BATTERY OFF--SEASON
STORAGE
To prevent battery damage during extended periods
of non-use, the following basic battery maintenance
items must be performed:
GRemove the battery from the
machine and wash the case and
battery tray with a mild solution of
baking soda and water. Rinse with
lots of fresh water after cleaning.
GUsing a wire brush or knife, remove
any corrosion from the cables and
terminals.
GMake sure that the electrolyte is at
the proper level.
GCharge at a rate no greater than 1/10
of the battery’s amp/hr capacity until
the electrolyte’s specific gravity
reaches 1.270 or greater.
GStore the battery either in the
machine with the cables
disconnected, or store in a cool
place.
NOTE: Stored batteries lose their charge at the rate
of 1% per day. Recharge to full capacity every 30 to
60 days during a non-use period. If the battery is
stored during the winter months, electrolyte will freeze
at higher temperatures as the battery discharges.
The chart below indicates freezing points by specific
gravity.
Electrolyte Freezing Points
Specific Gravity
of Electrolyte Freezing
Point
1.265 -75°F
1.225 -35°F
1.200 -17°F
1.150 +5°F
1.100 +18°F
1.050 +27°F
LOW MAINTENANCE
BATTERY CHARGING
PROCEDURE
1. Remove the battery from the ATV to prevent
damage from leaking or spilled acid during
charging.
2. Charge the battery with a variable rate charging
output. Charge as needed to raise the specific
gravity to 1.270 or greater.
3. Install battery in vehicle with positive terminal
toward the front. Coat threads of battery bolt with
a corrosion resistant NyogeltGrease (PN
2871329).
4. Route cables so they are tucked away in front and
behind battery.
5. Connect battery cables.
WARNING
To avoid the possibility of sparks and explosion,
connect positive (red) cable first and negative (black)
cable last.
6. After connecting the battery cables, install the
cover on the battery and attach the hold down
strap.
ELECTRICAL
10.29
HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHT
BULB REPLACEMENT
CAUTION: Do not service while headlight is hot.
Serious burns may result. Protect lamp during install.
Remove 3 screws
1. Remove three Phillips screws on the headlight
pod.
2. Lift pod cover up.
3. Disconnect instrument cluster harness (A) and
work light switch (B).
A B
4. Turn the headlight lamp socket counter--clockwise
and remove.
Loosen Tighten
Turn Harness Assembly
5. Carefully remove headlamp bulb from housing.
6. Remove the headlamp and replace with a new
headlamp.
NOTE: Do not touch the lamp with bare fingers. Hold
the plastic part (1) of the lamp. Oil from your skin
leaves a residue, causing a hot spot that will shorten
the life of the lamp.
1
7. Install the new headlamp and harness assembly
into the headlight assembly. Turn the headlight
harness clockwise to secure the headlamp into
place.
ELECTRICAL
10.30
HEADLIGHT HOUSING
REPLACEMENT
1. Remove three Phillips screws on the headlight
pod.
2. Disconnect instrument cluster harness (A) and
work light switch (B).
A B
3. Unplug headlamp harness (C).
C
4. Remove O-Ring (D) from headlight pivot pins.
(Both Sides)
D
5. Pull the headlight housing up to release from the
locking tabs.
Both Sides
6. Lift the adjusting knob up to remove from the
locking tabs.
7. Carefully pull the assembly up and out of pod.
8. Reverse the steps to install the new housing and
reassemble the pod.
51/8″
(13 cm)
NOTE: The distance from the headlamp parting line
to the end of the adjustment knob stop is 5 1/8, (13
cm). See illustration.
9. Adjust the headlight aim by turning the adjusting
knob.
ELECTRICAL
10.31
HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHT
ADJUSTMENT
The headlight beam can be adjusted to any position
desired by turning the adjusting knob located on the
bottom right side of the headlight pod.
Raise Headlight -- Turn knob counter-- counterclockwise
Lower Headlight -- Turn knob clockwise
Headlight Adjustment Knob
1. Place the vehicle on a level surface with the
headlight approximately 25’ (7.6 m) from a wall.
25’ (7.6 m)
Lamp Center Height
2″(5.1 cm)
2. Measure the distance from the floor to the center
of the headlight and make a mark on the wall at
the same height.
3. Start the engine and turn the headlight switch to
high beam.
4. Observe headlight aim. The most intense part of
the headlight beam should be aimed 2″(5.1 cm)
below the mark placed on the wall in Step 2
NOTE: Rider weight must be included on the
seat. On machines with separate low beam
lights, the drop should be 8″(20.3 cm) in 25’ from
the center of the low beam lamp.
5. Adjust beam to desired position .
LOWER HEADLAMP
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
Loosen Tighten
Turn Harness Assembly
1. Turn the back of the headllamp harness in a
counter--clockwise direction to loosen.
2. Pull the harness assembly out from the headlight
assembly.
3. Remove the lamp and replace with a new
headlamp.
NOTE: Do not touch the new lamp with bare fingers.
Hold the plastic part (1) of the lamp. Oil from your skin
leaves a residue, causing a hot spot that will shorten
the life of the lamp.
1
4. Install the harness assembly into the headlight
assembly. Turn the headlight harness clockwise
to secure the headlamp into place.
ELECTRICAL
10.32
Lower Headlamp Housing Removal
(if required)
5. Remove the screw that secures the lower
headlamp.
Remove Screw
6. Pull the headlamp out of the locking tab.
LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT
ADJUSTMENT
1. The low beam can be adjusted slightly upward or
downward.
Loosen Screw
2. Loosen the phillips screw located at the rear of the
headlamp.
3. Tilt the headlamp upward or downward.
4. Tighten the screw.
HEADLAMP SWITCH TEST
1. Remove the headlight pod cover.
2. Set meter to DC Volts and probe the headlamp
plug wires (Brown and Yellow) at back of
connector for 12 Volts.
3. Turn ignition and headlight on. If there is no
power, continue with checks to the harness and
fuses.
Upper Headlamp Plug Wires
Brown
Yellow
Brown
Green
WORKLIGHT SWITCH
Remove the headlight pod cover to locate the switch
wires. The switch snaps out by pushing in on the tabs
on both sides of the switch.
Squeeze Tabs -- Push Thru to Remove
If the rear work lights will not come on, check the
following:
ELECTRICAL
10.33
GCheck for continuity between the switch
contacts -- Place meter leads between two
contacts with switch in ON position.
GProbe the worklight plug wires at back of
vehicle, there should be at least 12V at the
plug.
GCheck for 12 volt power at the blue wire.
Worklight Plug Wires
BRAKE LIGHT / WORK LIGHT
REPLACEMENT
The brake light (A) and the work light (B) are both
located in the rear tail lamp housing.
A
B
1. To remove the worklight electrical connector (B),
pull down on the connector lock and pull the
connector from the bulb assembly.
B
2. To remove the brake light electrical connector (B),
press in on the tab on the connector to unlock the
connector and pull the connector from the bulb
assembly.
A
3. To remove either of the bulbs, turn the holder
assembly counter--clockwise to remove and pull
out. Turn the holder assembly clockwise to
install. Refer to the parts manual for the correct
bulb part number.
Remove
Install
ELECTRICAL
10.34
BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
1. Remove the front cover.
Brake Lamp Switch
Brake Switch Location: Under
front cover below headlight pod.
2. Disconnect wire harness from switch.
3. Connect an ohmmeter across switch contacts.
Reading should be infinite (∞).
4. Apply brake at handlebar lever and check for
continuity between switch contacts. Replace
switch if there is no continuity or greater than .5
ohms resistance when the brake is applied with
slight pressure.
FUEL SENDER TEST
1. Drain the fuel tank and remove it from the atv.
2. Set the fuel tank on a flat surface.
3. Hook up an ohm meter to the fuel sender harness
Violet/White wire (B) and Brown wire (C).
4. With the sender float in the empty position,the
meter should read 5 ohms.
5. Slowly tilt invert the tank so that gravity moves the
sender float to the full position, the meter should
now read 90 ohms.
ABC
Empty -- 6Ω±5%
Half -- 47Ω±5%
Full -- 90Ω±5%
6. If the readings are not between 5 ohms and 90
ohms, or if the reading is erratic or LCD display
’sticks’, check the following before replacing the
fuel pump assembly.
GLoose float
GFloat contact with tank
GBent float rod
If none of the conditions exists, the sender assembly is
faulty. Fuel pump assembly replacement is required.
ELECTRICAL
10.35
ACCESSORY WIRE
CONNECTIONS
Winch Installation
The 2005 Sportsman models have the main winch
cables routed and installed from the factory. This
enables quick installation.
Refer to Chapter 2 for more information on winch
installation and operation.
Accessory Power Wires
The accessory power leads for all accessories are
located under the front cover. The wires are 12 Volt
wires and are Orange / White in color. To locate the
wires, remove the front cover. The wires will be
located in the main wire loom on the right side.
If you have trouble locating the Orange / White wires
remove the left side panel and search under the front
fender area.
NOTE: Refer to the accessory instructions for
accessory hook--up and installation.
Orange/White Wires Located in This Area
Orange / White Wires
Accessory Wires
ELECTRICAL
10.36
BASIC WINCH WIRING -- 2005 ATV MODELS
2005 ATV WINCH WIRING DIAGRAM
ELECTRICAL
10.37
STARTER SYSTEM
TROUBLESHOOTING
Starter Motor Does Not Turn
GBattery discharged. Low specific
gravity
GLoose or faulty battery cables or
corroded connections (see Voltage
Drop Tests)
GRelated wiring loose, disconnected,
or corroded
GPoor ground connections at battery
cable, starter motor or starter
solenoid (see Voltage Drop Tests)
GFaulty key switch
GFaulty kill switch
GFaulty starter solenoid or starter
motor.
GEngine problem - seized or binding
(Can engine be rotated easily with
recoil starter?)
Starter Motor Turns Over Slowly
GBattery discharged - low specific
gravity
GExcessive circuit resistance - poor
connections (see Voltage Drop Test
below)
GEngine problem - seized or binding
(Can engine be rotated easily?)
GFaulty or worn brushes in starter
motor
Starter Motor Turns - Engine Does Not Rotate
GFaulty starter drive
GFaulty starter drive gears or starter
motor gear
GFaulty flywheel gear or loose
flywheel
VOLTAGE DROP TEST
The Voltage Drop Test is used to test for bad
connections. When performing the test, you are
testing the amount of voltage drop through the
connection. A poor or corroded connection will
appear as a high voltage reading. Voltage shown on
the meter when testing connections should not
exceed .1 VDC per connection or component.
To perform the test, place the meter on DC volts and
place the meter leads across the connection to be
tested. Refer to the chart on 1.47 to perform voltage
drop tests on the starter system.
Voltage should not exceed
.1 DC volts per connection
STARTER MOTOR REMOVAL/
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: Use electrical contact cleaner to clean starter
motor parts. Some solvents may leave a residue or
damage internal parts and insulation.
1. Remove the starter from the engine.
2. Remove the two bolts, washers, and sealing
O-Rings. Inspect O-Rings and replace if
damaged.
NOTE: Note the alignment marks on both ends of the
starter motor casing. These marks must align during
reassembly.
3. Remove the front bracket assembly and the rear
bracket assembly. Remove the shims from the
armature shaft and inspect the O--rings located
on the armature housing.
ELECTRICAL
10.38
O--rings
Shims
NOTE: The shims will be replaced during
reassembly.
BRUSH
INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT
1. Measure resistance between starter input
terminal and insulated brushes. The reading
should be .3 ohms or less. Remember to subtract
meter lead resistance.
2. Measure resistance between insulated brush and
starter housing. Reading should be infinite. (OL).
Inspect insulation on brush wires for damage and
repair or replace as necessary.
3. Slide positive brush springs to the side, pull
brushes out of their guides and remove brush
plate. Slide brush end frame off end of starter.
NOTE: The electrical input post must stay with
the field coil housing.
4. Measure resistance between ground brush and
brush plate. Resistance should be .3 ohms or
less.
Inspection
1. Measure length of each carbon brush. Replace
brush assembly when worn to 5/16″(8 mm) or
less. The brushes must slide freely in their
holders.
ELECTRICAL
10.39
Brush Length
Limit 5/16″(8mm)
Brush Replacement
1. Remove terminal nut with lock washer, flat
washer, large phenolic washer, the small phenolic
spacers, and sealing O-ring. Inspect O-ring and
replace if damaged.
2. Slide positive brush springs to the side, pull
brushes out of their guides and remove brush
plate.
Cleaning
CAUTION:
Some cleaning solvents may damage the insulation in
the starter. Care should be exercised when selecting
an appropriate solvent. If the commutator needs
cleaning use only electrical contact cleaner.
ARMATURE TESTING
1. Remove armature from starter casing. Note
order of shims on drive end for reassembly.
2. Inspect surface of commutator. Replace if
excessively worn or damaged.
3. Using a digital multitester, measure the resistance
between each of the commutator segments. The
reading should be .3 ohms or less.
4. Measure the resistance between each
commutator segment and the armature shaft.
The reading should be infinite (no continuity).
5. Check commutator bars for discoloration. Bars
discolored in pairs indicate shorted coils,
requiring replacement of the starter motor.
ELECTRICAL
10.40
6. Place armature in a growler. Turn growler on and
position a hacksaw blade or feeler gauge
lengthwise 1/8″(.3 cm) above armature coil
laminates. Rotate armature 360°. If hacksaw
blade is drawn to armature on any pole, the
armature is shorted and must be replaced.
CAUTION:
Use care when handling starter housing. Do not drop
or strike the housing as magnet damage is possible.
If magnets are damaged, starter must be replaced.
STARTER
REASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1. Install brush plate to field magnet housing aligning
index tab.
2. Install O-ring, two small phenolic spacers, large
phenolic washer, flat washer, lock washer, and
terminal nut.
3. While holding brush springs away from brushes,
push brushes back and hold in place.
4. Slide armature into field magnet housing.
Release brushes.
5. Lightly grease the drive roller bearing and reinstall
drive end frame on armature. Inspect seal for
wear or damage. Replace drive end cap if
necessary.
Roller Bearing
Seal
6. Be sure wire insulation is in place around positive
brush wire and pushed completely into slot on
phenolic plate.
7. Using a non-petroleum grease, lubricate brush
end bushing and install shims.
Dielectric Grease (PN 2871329)
8. Align brush plate and install cover and screws.
9. Lightly grease pinion shaft and install pinion,
spring stopper, and snap ring.
10. Install the starter onto the engine case. Hand
tighten each of the starter bolts. Torque the
bottom bolt first to 9 ft.lbs. (12 NM). Then
torque the top bolt to the same specification.
ELECTRICAL
10.41
NOTE: It is important to tighten the bottom starter bolt
first, as the bottom hole acts as a pilot hole to properly
align the starter drive (bendix) with the flywheel. This
helps to prevent binding and starter damage.
Torque the bottom bolt first!
9 ft.lbs. (12 Nm)
STARTER SOLENOID BENCH
TEST
To measure the resistance of the pull-in coil, connect
one meter lead to the solenoid lead wire and the other
to ground. The resistance should be 2.8-3.6 ohms.
Refer to Electric Starter System Testing in this section
to further test the solenoid.
STARTER DRIVE
Pinion Gear - Anti Kick-out Shoe, Garter
Spring Replacement
If the garter spring is damaged, the overrun clutch
may fail to return properly. Use either of the following
methods to remove and install a new garter spring:
Gear Assembly
Thrust Washer
Bushing
Spring
Thrust
Washer
Retaining
Ring
Stopper
Cover
Polaris Premium Starter Drive Grease
(PN 2871460)
1. Screw the overrun clutch out to the engaged
position on the pinion shaft assembly. Use a
small piece of wire with the end bent in a hook and
pick the old spring out of its channel. Slide it off
the end of the shaft. Slide the new spring over the
overrun clutch and into the spring groove. Make
sure that the spring is positioned between the
shoe alignment pins and the back flange of the
anti kick-out shoes.
2. Remove the retaining ring, thrust washer, spring
retainers and clutch return spring. Screw the
overrun clutch off the end of the pinion shaft.
Remove the old spring and install a new one.
Lightly grease the pinion shaft and reinstall the
clutch, spring, retainers, end washer and lock ring
in the reverse order. Make sure the end washer is
positioned properly so that it will hold the lock ring
in its groove.
ELECTRICAL
10.42
STARTER ASSEMBLY
1*
1*
3
2
4
5*
6
16
11
7*
8
15
9
10
12
13
14 15
17
18
Ref. Description Description
Ref.
1. Rubber Ring* 10. Gear Assembly
2. Brush Spring 11. Though Bolt
3. Thrust Washer 12. Cover
4. Gear Assembly 13. Stopper
5. O-Ring* 14. Snap Ring
6. Brush Complete 15. Washer
7. O-Ring* 16. Flange Bolt
8. Thrust Washer 17. Thrust Washer
9. Shaft Complete 18. Flange Bushing
*Do not reuse. Replace with new parts.
ELECTRICAL
10.43
STARTER SYSTEM TESTING FLOW CHART
Condition: Starter fails to turn motor. NOTE: Make sure engine crankshaft is free to turn before proceeding with
dynamic testing of starter system. A digital multitester must be used for this test.
With the tester on the VDC position, place the tes-
ter’s black lead on the battery negative and the red
lead on the battery positive.
Reading should be 12.4 V D. C. or greater.
Remove battery and properly service.
Install fully charged shop battery to continue
test.
Disconnect coil engagement wire from the starter
solenoid. Connect tester black wire to battery
ground. Connect red tester lead to harness wire at
solenoid. Turn on ignition switch and depress the
starter button. Tester should read battery voltage.
Check voltage on both sides of circuit
breaker, ignition switch/engine stop switch
and starter button. The voltage on both
sides should be the same. NOTE: The igni-
tion switch and engine stop switch must be
on and the starter button depressed. Re-
place component if failed .
Reconnect the solenoid. Connect the tester black
lead to the battery positive and the red lead to the
solenoid end of the battery-to-solenoid wire. De-
press starter button. Reading should be less than
.1 V D.C.
Clean the battery-to-solenoid cable ends or
replace the cable.
Connect the black tester lead to solenoid end of
battery-to-solenoid cable. Connect red tester lead
to solenoid end of solenoid-to-starter cable. De-
press starter button. Reading should be less than
.1 V D.C.
Replace the starter solenoid.
Connect the black tester lead to the solenoid end of
the solenoid-to-starter cable. Connect the red tester
lead to the starter end of the same cable. Depress
the starter button. The reading should be less than
.1 V D.C.
Clean the solenoid-to-starter cable ends or
replace the cable.
No
Yes
No
No
Yes
No
Yes
If all of these indicate a good condition, yet the starter still fails to turn, the
starter must be removed for static testing and inspection.
No
Yes
Test starter solenoid coil by connecting an ohmmeter between the solenoid
wire and the solenoid mounting plate. Resistance should be 3.4Ω. Check
solenoid ground path by measuring resistance between mounting plate and
battery negative terminal (-).
Voltage Drop Testing
See Page 10.37 for instructions.
Yes
ELECTRICAL
10.44
NOTES
ELECTRICAL
10.39
WIRING DIAGRAM 2005 SPORTSMAN 700/800 EFI
Stator
ELECTRICAL
10.40
WIRING DIAGRAM 2005 SPORTSMAN 700/800 EFI
A
A-Arm Replacement, 5.16
Air Filter Service, 2.20
Alternator Output Test, 10.19
ATV Specifications, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5
Auxiliary Brake Removal, 9.22
B
Back Lash Pad Adjustment, 7.15
Battery Charging, 10.25, 10.26, 10.28
Battery Check Before Install, 10.25
Battery Installation, 10.23, 10.27
Battery Maintenance, 2.16, 10.25
Battery Service, 10.22, 10.23, 10.24, 10.25,
10.27, 10.28
Battery Storage, 2.36
Battery Terminal Bolts, 10.23
Battery Testing, 10.24, 10.27
Battery, Off Season Storage, 10.25, 10.28
Bleeding Procedure,4--Stroke Cooling System,
3.61
Body Assembly Exploded View, 5.11
Body Rack Exploded View, 5.12
Brake Bleeding/Fluid Change, 9.7, 9.8, 9.13, 9.17
Brake Caliper Disassembly, Front, 9.14
Brake Caliper Exploded View, Front, 9.4
Brake Caliper Exploded View, Rear, 9.4, 9.23
Brake Caliper Inspection, Front, 9.15
Brake Caliper Installation, Front, 9.16
Brake Caliper Removal, Front, 9.14
Brake Caliper Removal/Inspection, Rear, 9.19
Brake Disc Inspection, Front, 9.13
Brake Disc Inspection, Rear, 9.21
Brake Disc Removal/Replacement, Front, 9.13
Brake Fluid Level, 2.28
Brake Hose/Fitting Inspection, 2.29
Brake Light Switch Testing, 10.34
Brake Light, Work Light, Replacement, 10.33
Brake Master Cylinder Exploded View, Rear, 9.5,
9.22
Brake Noise, 9.5
Brake Pad Assembly, Front, 9.12
Brake Pad Inspection, 2.28
Brake Pad Installation, Rear, 9.18
Brake Pad Removal, Front, 9.10
Brake Pad Removal, Rear, 9.17
Brake System Inspection, 2.28
Brake System Main Components, 9.3
Brake System Operation, 9.6
Brake, Auxiliary, Hydraulic, 2.29
Brake, Auxiliary, Testing, 2.29
Breather Filter Maintenance, 2.21
Breather Hose Inspection, 2.22
Brush Replacement, Starter Motor, 10.39
C
Cam Gear Assembly, 3.41
Cam Gear Disassembly , 3.40
Cam Gear Removal, 3.40
Camber & Caster, 2.25
Camshaft Inspection, 3.47
Charging System Break Even Test, 10.19
Charging System Testing, 10.21
Cleaning the ATV, 2.35
Clutch Alignment, 6.18
Clutch Offset, 6.18
Cold Weather Heater Plug, 1.6
Combustion Chamber, 3.25
Compression Test, 2.15
Controls Inspection, 2.30
Coolant Level Inspection , 2.19
Coolant Strength, 2.18
Coolant Temperature Sensor, 10.14
Cooling System Hoses, 2.19
Cooling System Overview , 2.18
Cooling System Test, 2.19
Crank Position Sensor, 4.13
Current Draw, 10.18
CV Joint Handling Tips, 7.22
CV Shaft Boot, Inspection, 2.30
Cylinder Head Assembly, 3.27
Cylinder Head Disassembly, 3.22, 3.23
Cylinder Head Inspection, 3.22
Cylinder Head Reconditioning, 3.25
Cylinder Head Removal, 3.21, 3.28
Cylinder Head Warpage, 3.22
Cylinder Honing, 3.19
Cylinder Inspection, 3.32
Cylinder Removal/Inspection, 3.31
D
Decal Replacement, 5.20
Decimal Equivalents, 1.13
Diagnostic Codes, 4.18
Diagnostic Mode, 10.4
Diagnostic Mode, Service Interval, 10.5
Drive Belt Installation, 6.17
Drive Belt Removal/Inspection, 6.16
Drive Clutch Assembly, 6.15
Drive Clutch Disassembly, 6.11, 6.12, 6.13
Drive Clutch Exploded View, 6.2
Drive Clutch Inspection, 6.11
Drive Clutch Operation, 6.4
Drive Shaft Boot Inspection, 7.3
Drive Shaft Boot Replacement, 7.4
Driven Clutch Assembly, 6.24
Driven Clutch Operation, 6.4, 6.5
Dual Hydraulic Caliper Bleeding, 9.7
E
EBS Drive Clutch Bushing Service, 6.19
EBS Drive Clutch Inspection, 6.13
EBS Driven Clutch Disassembly, 6.21
EBS Driven Clutch Disassembly, Late 2004, 6.27
EBS Exploded View, 6.3
EBS Moveable Sheave Bushing Inspection, 6.14
EBS One Way Drive Clutch Inspection, 6.13
EFI Component Locations, 4.5
EFI Diagnostic Mode, 10.6
EFI System Exploded View, 4.4
EFI System Overview, 4.7
Electronic Control Unit, 4.8
Engine Accessible Components, 3.9
Engine Bottom End Disassembly, 3.31, 3.32, 3.34
Engine Bottom End Disassembly/Inspection, 3.47
Engine Break in Period, 3.18
Engine Designation Numbers, 1.2
Engine Exploded View, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7
Engine Fogging, 2.35
Engine Head Assembly, 3.29, 3.30
Engine Lower Disassembly/Inspection, 3.38
Engine Lower Reassembly, 3.47
Engine Lubrication, 3.19
Engine Removal, 3.16
Engine Serial Number Location, 1.2
Engine Service Data, 3.12, 3.13, 3.14
Engine Temperature Sensor, 4.17
Engine to Frame Ground, 2.18
Engine Top End Disassembly, 3.21, 3.24, 3.28
ETC Operation Test, 10.15
ETC Switch Adjustment, 2.14
ETC Switch Testing, 10.15
Exhaust Canister Maintenance, 2.36
Exhaust System, Maintenance, 2.27
F
Fan Control Circuit Testing, 10.14
Fan Control Switch Bypass Test, 10.14
Fan Motor Current Draw Test, 10.14
Flywheel Identification, 10.16
Foot Well Removal / Install, 5.4
Frame, Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, 2.32
Front / Rear Storage Compartment, 2.32
Front Axle Installation, 7.3
Front Axle Removal, 7.2
Front Cab Removal / Installation, 5.8
Front Cover Removal / Install, 5.4
Front Drive Axle Exploded View, 7.8
Front Gearcase Assembly/Inspection, 7.13
Front Gearcase Diagnosis -- Centralized Hilliard,
7.16
Front Gearcase Disassembly, 7.10
Front Gearcase Exploded View -- Centralized Hil-
liard, 7.18
Front Gearcase Operation, 7.9
Front Hub Assembly, 7.5
Front Hub Disassembly, 7.5
Front Prop Shaft Removal, 7.6
Front Storage Installation, 5.7
Front Storage Removal, 5.5
Front Strut Assembly, 5.18
Front Strut Ball Joint Replacement, 5.19
Front Strut Weldment Replacement, 5.19
Fuel Filter, 4.12
Fuel Filter Maintenance, 2.15
Fuel Injector, 4.12
Fuel Pressure Regulator, 4.11
Fuel Pump Service, 4.9, 4.18
Fuel Sender, Test, 10.34, 10.35
Fuel Stabilizer, 2.35
Fuel Tank Assembly, Exploded View, 4.6
G
Gear Circuit Readings, Instrument Cluster, 10.5
Gear Position Switch Test, 10.2
Gear Shift Selector Removal, 8.4
Gearcase Assembly, Rear , 7.28
Gearcase Coil Resistance, Front,7.11
Gearcase Disassembly, Rear , 7.26
Gearcase Exploded View, Rear , 7.30
Gearcase Installation, Front, 7.17
Gearcase Installation, Rear , 7.29
Gearcase Lubrication, Front, 2.11
Gearcase Lubrication, Rear, 2.12
Gearcase Removal, Front, 7.9
Glossary of Terms, 1.14
H
Headlamp Service, 10.30, 10.31, 10.32
Headlamp Switch Testing, 10.32
Headlight Adjustment, 10.31, 10.32
High Engine Coolant Temperature, 10.3
High/Low Battery Voltage, 10.3
Honing to Oversize, 3.19
Hub Installation, Rear, 7.20
Hub Removal, Rear, 7.19
I
Ignition System Components, 10.17
Instrument Cluster Overview, 10.3
K
Keys, Replacement, 1.6
L
Load Test, 10.24, 10.28
Lubrication Charts, 2.9, 2.10
Lubrication, Transmission, 2.13, 8.4
M
Mag Cover Seal Replacement, 3.53
MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION, 2.3, 2.4,
2.5
Maintenance, ATV Component Location, 2.6
Master Cylinder Installation, 9.9
Master Cylinder Removal, 9.9
Model & Serial Number Location, 1.2
Model Identification, 1.2
O
Odometer, Tachometer,Trip Meter, 10.3
Oil / Water Pump Disassembly, 3.44
Oil Check , Engine, 2.23
Oil Filter Change, 2.24
Oil Flow, 3.20
Oil Pressure Test, 3.19
Oil Rotor Clearance, 3.44
P
Paint Codes, 1.6
Periodic Maintenance Chart, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5
Piston Identification, 3.9
Piston Removal, 3.31
Piston Ring Installed Gap, 3.35, 3.37
Piston to Cylinder Clearance, 3.33
Piston/Rod Inspection, 3.34
Plastic Insert Removal, 5.2
Progammable Service Interval, Diagnostic Mode,
10.3
Publication Numbers, 1.6
Push Rod Inspection, 3.21
PVT Assembly, 6.8
PVT Disassembly, 6.7
PVT Drying, 2.22, 6.5
PVT Maintenance, 6.5
PVT Operation, 6.4
PVT Overheating, 6.6
PVT System Sealing/Ducting Components, 6.2
PVT Troubleshooting, 6.28
R
Radiator Coolant Level Inspection, 2.19
Radiator Front Cover Removal, 2.20, 5.10
Radiator, Maintenance, 2.19
Rear Cab Removal / Installation, 5.9
Rear Caliper Assembly, 9.20
Rear Drive Shaft Installation, 7.23
Rear Drive Shaft Removal, 7.22
Rear Drive Shaft Service, 7.24
Hub Assembly, Rear , 7.21
Hub Disassembly, Rear , 7.21
Rear Rack Removal / Installation, 5.7
Rear Storage Compartment Removal, 5.9
Rear Suspension Exploded View, 5.17
Rocker Arm Inspection, 3.21
S
Sediment Tube, Maintenance, 2.21
Shift Linkage Adjustment, 2.15
Shift Weights, 6.10
Side Panel Removal, 5.3
Solid State Relay, 10.20
Spark Plug Maintenance, 2.17
Special Tools, 1.7, 1.8, 2.8, 4.2, 5.2, 7.2, 9.2
Special Tools, Engine, 3.9
Special Tools, PVT, 6.4
Specifications, Brake, 9.2
Specifications, Cooling System, 3.15
Specifications, Drive Clutch Spring, 6.9
Specifications, Torque, Brakes, 9.2
Specifications, Torque, Engine, 3.10
Specifications, Torque, Final Drive, 7.2
Specifications, Torque, PVT, 6.4
Specifications, Torque, Standard, 1.11
Specifications, Torque, Steering, 5.2
Specifications, Torque, Suspension, 5.2
Specifications, Torque, Transmission, 8.4
Speedometer Installation, 10.8
Speedometer Troubleshooting, 10.9, 10.10,
10.11, 10.12, 10.13
Speedometer Removal, 10.8
Spider Disassembly, 6.22
Spider Removal, 6.12
Starter Assembly, 10.40, 10.42
Starter Disassembly, 10.37
Starter Drive, 10.41
Starter Drive Removal/Inspection, 3.36
Starter Motor Armature Testing, 10.39
Starter Motor Brush Inspection/Replacement,
10.38
Starter Motor Cleaning, 10.39
Starter Solenoid Bench Test, 10.41
Starter System Test, 10.43
Stator Removal/Inspection, 3.37, 3.38
Steering Maintenance, 2.25
Steering Post Assembly, 5.20
ATV Cleaning & Storage , 2.35
Storage Tips, 2.35, 2.36
Suspension Preload Adjustment, 2.29
Suspension, Front, Inspection, 2.30
Suspension, Rear, Inspection, 2.30
T
Tap Drill Chart, 1.13
Temperature & Barometric Sensor (T--Bap), 4.14
Throttle Cable Adjustment, 2.14
Throttle Operation, 2.14
Throttle Position Sensor, 4.15
Tie Rod Inspection, 2.25
Tire Inspection, 2.32
Tire Pressure, 2.31
Tire Tread Depth, 2.32
Toe Alignment, 2.26, 2.27
Torque Patterns, Engine, 3.11
Transmission Disassembly, 8.6
Transmission I.D. Location, 1.2
Transmission Information, 8.4
Transmission Installation, 8.5
Transmission Reassembly, 8.11
Transmission Removal, 8.4
Transmission, Exploded View, 8.2, 8.3
Transporting the ATV, 2.36, 3.8
Trigger Coil Gap, 10.2
Troubleshooting, Brakes,9.23
Troubleshooting, Cooling System, 3.60
Troubleshooting, Engine, 3.59, 3.60
Troubleshooting, Fuel System, 4.19
Troubleshooting, Ignition System, 10.18
Troubleshooting, Spark Plug, 3.59
Troubleshooting, Starter System, 10.37
U
U--Joint Assembly, 7.7
U--Joint Disassembly, 7.6
Unit of Measure Conversion Table, 1.12
V
Valve Inspection, 3.24
Valve Lifter Removal/Inspection, 3.31
Valve Seal Testing, 3.28
Valve Seat Inspection, 3.25
Valve Seat Reconditioning, 3.25, 3.26, 3.27
Vent Line Maintenance, 2.15
VIN Identification, 1.2
Voltage Drop Test, 10.37
Voltage Test Open Circuit, 10.24, 10.27
W
Washing the ATV, 2.35
Water/Oil Pump Removal, 3.43
Waxing the ATV, 2.35
Wheel Inspection, 2.31
Wheel Installation, 2.31
Wheel Removal Front or Rear, 2.31
Wheel, Hub Torque, 2.31
Winch Operation, 2.33
Winch Wiring, 10.36
Worklight Switch, 10.32
Publication Title, Part Number: ____________________________ Page(s)____________
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Medina, MN 55340
USA
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2005 SPORTSMAN 700 EFI
2005 SPORTSMAN 800 EFI
SERVICE MANUAL
PN 9919820
2005 SPORTSMAN 700/800 EFI SERVICE MANUAL PN 9919820
Printed in USA
9919820
PART #
Cvr_9919820 10/14/04 10:19 AM Page 1

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