Air Sealing JV376VWW 26446

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T e c h n o l o g y F a c t S h e e t

AIR SEALING
For more information, contact:
Energy Efficiency and
Renewable Energy
Clearinghouse (EREC)
1-800-DOE-3732
www.eren.doe.gov

AIR SEALING CHECKLIST
BEFORE DRYWALL
• Seal bottom plate of exterior walls with
caulk or gasket; seal inside edge with
caulk after walls are up.
•

Or visit the BTS Web site at
www.eren.doe.gov/buildings
Or refer to the Builder’s Guide
Energy Efficient Building
Association, Inc.
651-268-7585
www.eeba.org
Written and prepared for
the U.S. Department of
Energy by:

•

•

Southface Energy Institute
404-872-3549
www.southface.org
Oak Ridge
National Laboratory
Buildings Technology Center
423-574-5178
www.ornl.gov/ornl/btc
The Model Energy Code
can be obtained from the
International Code Council by
calling 703-931-4533
MECcheck, a companion
compliance software
package, can be ordered from
DOE by calling
1-800-270-CODE
or downloaded directly
from the Web at
www.energycodes.org/
resid/resid.htm.

NOTICE: Neither the United States government nor any agency thereof, nor
any of their employees, makes any warranty, express or implied, or assumes
any legal liability or responsibility for the
accuracy, completeness,
or usefulness of any information, apparatus, product, or process disclosed.

Seal band joist with caulk, spray foam, or
gasketing between top plate and band
joist, and between band joist and subfloor.
For bath tubs on outside walls, insulate
the exterior wall and air seal behind tub
with sheet goods or plastic before tub is
installed. After the drain is installed, seal
the tub drain penetration with sheet
goods and caulk or spray foam.
For dropped ceilings or soffits, duct and
flue chases, and open partition walls,
use sheet goods and sealant to stop air
leakage from attic into soffit and then insulate. Alternately, install framing and
drywall for the soffits after the taped ceiling drywall is installed.

•

Caulk the backsides of window flanges to
the sheathing during installation.

•

Seal between door thresholds and
subflooring with caulk.

•

•

•

Seal window and exterior door rough
openings with backer rod and caulk, or
use non-expanding latex-based spray
foams that will not pinch jambs or void
window warranties.
Seal all electrical wire, plumbing, and
HVAC penetrations between any conditioned and unconditioned spaces with
caulk or spray foam.
Seal wiring and knockouts in electrical
boxes with caulk. Also seal outdoormounted boxes to the exterior sheathing.

DURING DRYWALL
• Seal drywall to top and bottom plates
using gaskets, adhesive, or caulk.

The views and opinions of authors expressed herein do not necessarily state
or reflect those of the United States government or any agency thereof.

AIR SEALING

AFTER DRYWALL
• Seal electrical switch, outlet, and circuit
breaker boxes to drywall with caulk or
foam.
•

Seal light fixture boxes, medicine
cabinets, and bath and kitchen ventilation
fans to drywall with caulk or foam.

•

Seal all duct boots to floor or drywall
with caulk, foam, or mastic.

•

Seal any plumbing or electrical wire penetration through drywall with caulk or foam.

•

•

•

•

•

•

Seal gaps at whole house fan with spray
foam or housewrap tape (ensure louvers
function properly).
For attic hatches and kneewall access
doors, weatherstrip and include a tight
latch. Add rigid insulation.
For attic pull-down stairs, make stairs
airtight using latch bolts and
weatherstripping. Add an insulated cover.
Seal between a masonry chimney and the
attic framing using sheet metal or other
noncombustible sheet goods and
high-temperature (450°F), fire-rated caulk.
Seal around the metal flue of combustion
equipment using a UL-approved metal
collar and high-temperature (450°F),
fire-rated caulk.
Use only UL-approved airtight, IC-rated
recessed light fixtures (that meet ASTM
E283 requirements); seal between fixture
and drywall with caulk.

AIR SEAL EXTERIOR
• Repair any damaged sheathing pieces.
•

•

Seal air leaks and save energy!

Seal all exterior penetrations, such as
porch light fixtures, phone, security,
cable and electric service holes, with
caulk or spray foam.
If not using housewrap, seal all sheathing seams with housewrap tape or caulk.

Buildings for
the 21st Century
Buildings that are more
energy-efficient, comfortable,
and affordable…that’s the
goal of DOE’s Office of Building
Technology, State and
Community Programs (BTS).
To accelerate the development
and wide application of energy
efficiency measures, BTS:
• Conducts R&D on technolo­
gies and concepts for energy
efficiency, working closely
with the building industry
and with manufacturers of
materials, equipment, and
appliances

WHAT IS AIR LEAKAGE?
Ventilation is fresh air that enters a house in a
controlled manner to exhaust excess moisture
and reduce odors and stuffiness. Air leakage,
or infiltration, is outside air that enters a house
uncontrollably through cracks and openings. It
is unwise to rely on air leakage for ventilation.
During cold or windy weather, too much air
may enter the house and, during warm or calm
weather, too little. Also, a leaky house that
allows moldy, dusty crawlspace or attic air to
enter is not healthy.

• Provides support and grants
to States and communities
for deployment of energyefficient technologies and
practices

and rodents. Reducing infiltration can signifi­
cantly cut annual heating and cooling costs,
improve building durability, and create a
healthier indoor environment. The size of heat­
ing and cooling equipment can also be de­
creased, which saves additional dollars. Reduc­
ing air leakage in new homes, as required by
the 1995 Model Energy Code (see page 4),
typically costs less than $200 for the average
home and does not require specialized labor.
Annual Energy Costs for 1300 sq. ft. house

The recommended strategy in both new and old
homes is to reduce air leakage as much as pos­
sible and to provide controlled ventilation as
needed. For simple house designs, effective spot
ventilation, such as kitchen and bath fans that
exhaust to the outside, may be adequate. For
more complex houses or ones in colder
climates, whole house ventilation systems may
be appropriate. Such systems may incorporate
heat recovery, moisture control, or air filtering.

• Promotes energy/money
saving opportunities to both
builders and buyers of homes
and commercial buildings
• Works with State and local
regulatory groups to improve
building codes, appliance
standards, and guidelines for
efficient energy use

noise, dust, and the entry of pollutants, insects,

Kitchen
Range
Hood

Bath Fan

Kitchen and bath vents provide spot ventilation

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF AIR
SEALING?
Air infiltration can account for 30 percent or
more of a home’s heating and cooling costs
and contribute to problems with moisture,

Infiltration rate

Atlanta

High*

Low**

Heating
Cooling

$311
$196

$244
$178

Savings

$67
$18

* Estimated 12 air changes per hour at 50 Pascal pressure difference
** Estimated 6 air changes per hour at 50 Pascal pressure difference

WHAT IS AN
AIR BARRIER?
The ceilings, walls,
and floor/foundation
that separate the
inside conditioned
space from the outside or uncon­
ditioned space form the air barrier and the
insulation barrier for a house. These two
barriers differ by the materials used.
For most homes, the sheet goods that form the
ceilings, walls, and floor (such as drywall,
sheathing, and decking) are effective at stopping
air leakage. It is critical to seal all holes and
seams between these sheet goods with durable
caulks, gaskets, and foam sealants to create a
continuous air barrier. The insulation barrier is
usually made up of standard insulating materi­
als, such as batt or loose fill products, that do
not seal against air leakage.

Printed with a renewable-source ink on paper containing at
least 50% wastepaper, including 20% postconsumer waste.
February 2000 DOE/GO-102000-0767

OFFICE OF BUILDING TECHNOLOGY, STATE AND COMMUNITY PROGRAMS
ENERGY EFFICIENCY AND RENEWABLE ENERGY • U.S. DEPARTMENT OF ENERGY

AIR SEALING
WHAT ARE THE PRIORITIES FOR AIR SEALING?
Although windows, doors, and outside walls contribute to air
leakage, the biggest holes are usually hidden from view and
connect the house to the attic, crawlspace, or basement. The
key is to identify these areas during the design process, assign
responsibility for sealing holes, and check to ensure that the air
sealing was done effectively. Usually, seal all the big
holes first, then the large cracks and penetrations, and
finally the smaller cracks and seams.
WHERE ARE THESE LEAKAGE SITES?
Dropped ceilings and kitchen soffits, ductwork and
plumbing chases, attic accesses and pull-down stairs,
recessed light fixtures, holes in mechanical room closets,
and wiring penetrations through the top plates of walls
represent major connections between the attic and con­
ditioned space. Many times unseen holes or pathways,
called bypasses, occur at key junctures in the framing
(such as at attic-to-kneewall transitions) and permit large
quantities of air to leak in and out of the home.

•

Spray foam: Fills large cracks and small holes. It can be
messy; consider new latex-based foams. DO NOT USE near
flammable applications (e.g., flue vents). DO NOT USE
expanding types on windows and doors.

•

Backer rod: Closed-cell foam or rope caulk. Press into crack
or gap with screwdriver or putty knife. Often used with caulk
around window and door rough openings.
•

•

•

UL181 or foil-faced tape: Temporarily seals the air
handler.

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

Attic space

Unwanted
air leakage
Attic Ventilation

Seal tub penetration

Seal kneewall to create a continuous air barrier.

Seal and insulate exterior wall before installing bath tubs.

Attic
ventilation

Sheet
metal
and
high-temp
caulk

Seal
chases
Caulk drywall to
top and bottom
plates
Caulk bottom plate
to subfloor

Caulk
electrical
fixtures to
drywall

Seal
bottom
plate

Seal plumbing
penetrations

is a telltale sign of air movement (it simply collects

yy
;;
;;
yy
;;
yy

dirt like a filter). Certain types of insulation, such
as dense-packed cellulose and certain foams, can

○

○

○

○

○

Seal dropped soffit ceilings, plumbing and electrical penetrations, and utility
chases.

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

Caulk bottom plate
to subfloor

yy
;;
;;
yy
;;
yy

Tape or
caulk exterior
sheathing
seams

Sill gasket or
double-bead of caulk

stop air leakage. In older homes, dirty fiberglass

flow.

Soffit vent

Caulk band joist
to subfloor and plates

Seal HVAC
penetrations

The most common insulation, fiberglass, does not

be effective at reducing air flow as well as heat

Rafter
baffle

Seal and insulate
dropped soffit

DON’T RELY ON THE INSULATION:

○

Seal all edges of rigid
foam insulation

Seal
outlet
box to
drywall

Seal electrical
penetrations

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

DIAGNOSTIC TOOLS
Testing the airtightness of a home using a special fan called
a blower door can help to ensure that air sealing work is ef­
Exterior
fective. Often, energy ef­
door frame
Temporary covering
ficiency incentive proAdjustable frame
grams, such as the DOE/
EPA ENERGY STAR Program, require a blower
door test (usually performed in less than an
Air pressure gauge
hour) to confirm the
Fan
tightness of the house.

Desired
ventilation

Knee wall

Mastic: Seals air handlers and all duct connections and
joints.

•

○

Seal

for sealing high-temperature components,
such as flues and chimneys, to framing.

such as doors, windows, and attic accesses.

Caulk: Seals gaps of less than ½". Select grade (interior,
exterior, high temperature) based on application.

Option 2

Sheet metal: Used with high-temperature caulk

Weatherstripping: Used to seal moveable components,

•

Seal
Hardboard

Polyethylene plastic: This inexpensive material for air
sealing also stops vapor diffusion. All edges and penetra­
tions must be completely sealed for an effective air barrier.
Poly is fragile, and proper placement is climate specific.

•

Attic
living
space

Sheet goods (plywood, drywall, rigid foam insu­
lation): These materials form the air barrier. Air
leaks only at unsealed seams or penetrations.

Use backer rod to fill gaps between
window and rough opening before
caulking or use non-expanding
foam.

A I R SE A L I N G M A T E R I A L S
Use a combination of these different air sealing materials.

Ext
erio
rw
all

Housewrap: Installed over exterior sheathing.
Must be sealed with housewrap tape or caulk
to form an airtight seal. Resists water but is
nota vapor barrier.

•

•

Option 1

Gaskets: Apply under the bottom plate before
an exterior wall is raised or use to seal drywall
to framing instead of caulk or adhesive.

•

Major leakage sites in the floor can be found around
the tub drain and the numerous plumbing, HVAC, and
wiring penetrations through the floor decking and bottom plates
of walls. In walls, the band joist (for two-story homes), window
and door rough openings, and penetrations through the drywall
and exterior sheathing are primary leakage sites.

Insulate and air seal
behind tub with sealed polyethylene
plastic or sheet material

Seal plumbing
and
electrical
penetrations

Sheathing –
OK to extend
sheathing
below sill plate

Seal exterior sheathing joints, and top and bottom plates.

AIR SEALING
WHAT ARE THE PRIORITIES FOR AIR SEALING?
Although windows, doors, and outside walls contribute to air
leakage, the biggest holes are usually hidden from view and
connect the house to the attic, crawlspace, or basement. The
key is to identify these areas during the design process, assign
responsibility for sealing holes, and check to ensure that the air
sealing was done effectively. Usually, seal all the big
holes first, then the large cracks and penetrations, and
finally the smaller cracks and seams.
WHERE ARE THESE LEAKAGE SITES?
Dropped ceilings and kitchen soffits, ductwork and
plumbing chases, attic accesses and pull-down stairs,
recessed light fixtures, holes in mechanical room closets,
and wiring penetrations through the top plates of walls
represent major connections between the attic and conditioned space. Many times unseen holes or pathways,
called bypasses, occur at key junctures in the framing
(such as at attic-to-kneewall transitions) and permit large
quantities of air to leak in and out of the home.

•

Spray foam: Fills large cracks and small holes. It can be
messy; consider new latex-based foams. DO NOT USE near
flammable applications (e.g., flue vents). DO NOT USE
expanding types on windows and doors.

•

Backer rod: Closed-cell foam or rope caulk. Press into crack
or gap with screwdriver or putty knife. Often used with caulk
around window and door rough openings.
•

•

•

•
•

UL181 or foil-faced tape: Temporarily seals the air
handler.

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

Attic space

Unwanted
air leakage
Attic Ventilation

Seal tub penetration

Seal kneewall to create a continuous air barrier.

Seal and insulate exterior wall before installing bath tubs.

Attic
ventilation

Sheet
metal
and
high-temp
caulk

Seal
chases
Caulk drywall to
top and bottom
plates
Caulk bottom plate
to subfloor

Caulk
electrical
fixtures to
drywall

Seal
bottom
plate

Seal plumbing
penetrations

is a telltale sign of air movement (it simply collects

yy
;;
;;
yy
;;
yy

dirt like a filter). Certain types of insulation, such
as dense-packed cellulose and certain foams, can

○

○

○

○

○

Seal dropped soffit ceilings, plumbing and electrical penetrations, and utility
chases.

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

Caulk bottom plate
to subfloor

;;
yy
;;
yy
;;
yy

Tape or
caulk exterior
sheathing
seams

Sill gasket or
double-bead of caulk

stop air leakage. In older homes, dirty fiberglass

○

Soffit vent

Caulk band joist
to subfloor and plates

Seal HVAC
penetrations

The most common insulation, fiberglass, does not

flow.

Rafter
baffle

Seal and insulate
dropped soffit

DON’T RELY ON THE INSULATION:

be effective at reducing air flow as well as heat

Seal all edges of rigid
foam insulation

Seal
outlet
box to
drywall

Seal electrical
penetrations

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

○

DIAGNOSTIC TOOLS
Testing the airtightness of a home using a special fan called
a blower door can help to ensure that air sealing work is efExterior
fective. Often, energy efdoor frame
Temporary covering
ficiency incentive proAdjustable frame
grams, such as the DOE/
EPA ENERGY STAR Program, require a blower
door test (usually performed in less than an
Air pressure gauge
hour) to confirm the
Fan
tightness of the house.

Desired
ventilation

Knee wall

Mastic: Seals air handlers and all duct connections and
joints.

Caulk: Seals gaps of less than ½". Select grade (interior,
exterior, high temperature) based on application.

Option 2

Seal

Sheet metal: Used with high-temperature caulk
for sealing high-temperature components,
such as flues and chimneys, to framing.

Weatherstripping: Used to seal moveable components,
such as doors, windows, and attic accesses.

Seal
Hardboard

Polyethylene plastic: This inexpensive material for air
sealing also stops vapor diffusion. All edges and penetrations must be completely sealed for an effective air barrier.
Poly is fragile, and proper placement is climate specific.

•

Attic
living
space

Sheet goods (plywood, drywall, rigid foam insulation): These materials form the air barrier. Air
leaks only at unsealed seams or penetrations.

Use backer rod to fill gaps between
window and rough opening before
caulking or use non-expanding
foam.

A I R SE A L I N G M A T E R I A L S
Use a combination of these different air sealing materials.

Ext
erio
rw
all

Housewrap: Installed over exterior sheathing.
Must be sealed with housewrap tape or caulk
to form an airtight seal. Resists water but is
not a vapor barrier.

•

•

Option 1

Gaskets: Apply under the bottom plate before
an exterior wall is raised or use to seal drywall
to framing instead of caulk or adhesive.

•

Major leakage sites in the floor can be found around
the tub drain and the numerous plumbing, HVAC, and
wiring penetrations through the floor decking and bottom plates
of walls. In walls, the band joist (for two-story homes), window
and door rough openings, and penetrations through the drywall
and exterior sheathing are primary leakage sites.

Insulate and air seal
behind tub with sealed polyethylene
plastic or sheet material

Seal plumbing
and
electrical
penetrations

Sheathing –
OK to extend
sheathing
below sill plate

Seal exterior sheathing joints, and top and bottom plates.

T e c h n o l o g y F a c t S h e e t

AIR SEALING
For more information, contact:
Energy Efficiency and
Renewable Energy
Clearinghouse (EREC)
1-800-DOE-3732
www.eren.doe.gov

AIR SEALING CHECKLIST
BEFORE DRYWALL
• Seal bottom plate of exterior walls with
caulk or gasket; seal inside edge with
caulk after walls are up.
•

Or visit the BTS Web site at
www.eren.doe.gov/buildings
Or refer to the Builder’s Guide
Energy Efficient Building
Association, Inc.
651-268-7585
www.eeba.org
Written and prepared for
the U.S. Department of
Energy by:

•

•

Southface Energy Institute
404-872-3549
www.southface.org
Oak Ridge
National Laboratory
Buildings Technology Center
423-574-5178
www.ornl.gov/ornl/btc
The Model Energy Code
can be obtained from the
International Code Council by
calling 703-931-4533
MECcheck, a companion
compliance software
package, can be ordered from
DOE by calling
1-800-270-CODE
or downloaded directly
from the Web at
www.energycodes.org/
resid/resid.htm.

NOTICE: Neither the United States gov­
ernment nor any agency thereof, nor
any of their employees, makes any war­
ranty, express or implied, or assumes
any legal liability or responsibility for the
accuracy, completeness,
or usefulness of any information, appa­
ratus, product, or process disclosed.

Seal band joist with caulk, spray foam, or
gasketing between top plate and band
joist, and between band joist and subfloor.
For bath tubs on outside walls, insulate
the exterior wall and air seal behind tub
with sheet goods or plastic before tub is
installed. After the drain is installed, seal
the tub drain penetration with sheet
goods and caulk or spray foam.
For dropped ceilings or soffits, duct and
flue chases, and open partition walls,
use sheet goods and sealant to stop air
leakage from attic into soffit and then in­
sulate. Alternately, install framing and
drywall for the soffits afterthe taped ceil­
ing drywall is installed.

•

Caulk the backsides of window flanges to
the sheathing during installation.

•

Seal between door thresholds and
subflooring with caulk.

•

•

•

Seal window and exterior door rough
openings with backer rod and caulk, or
use non-expanding latex-based spray
foams that will not pinch jambs or void
window warranties.
Seal all electrical wire, plumbing, and
HVAC penetrations between any condi­
tioned and unconditioned spaces with
caulk or spray foam.
Seal wiring and knockouts in electrical
boxes with caulk. Also seal outdoormounted boxes to the exterior sheathing.

DURING DRYWALL
• Seal drywall to top and bottom plates
using gaskets, adhesive, or caulk.

The views and opinions of authors ex­
pressed herein do not necessarily state
or reflect those of the United States gov­
ernment or any agency thereof.

AIR SEALING

AFTER DRYWALL
• Seal electrical switch, outlet, and circuit
breaker boxes to drywall with caulk or
foam.
•

Seal light fixture boxes, medicine
cabinets, and bath and kitchen ventilation
fans to drywall with caulk or foam.

•

Seal all duct boots to floor or drywall
with caulk, foam, or mastic.

•

Seal any plumbing or electrical wire pen­
etration through drywall with caulk or foam.

•

•

•

•

•

•

Seal gaps at whole house fan with spray
foam or housewrap tape (ensure louvers
function properly).
For attic hatches and kneewall access
doors, weatherstrip and include a tight
latch. Add rigid insulation.
For attic pull-down stairs, make stairs
airtight using latch bolts and
weatherstripping. Add an insulated cover.
Seal between a masonry chimney and the
attic framing using sheet metal or other
noncombustible sheet goods and
high-temperature (450°F), fire-rated caulk.
Seal around the metal flue of combustion
equipment using a UL-approved metal
collar and high-temperature (450°F),
fire-rated caulk.
Use only UL-approved airtight, IC-rated
recessed light fixtures (that meet ASTM
E283 requirements); seal between fixture
and drywall with caulk.

AIR SEAL EXTERIOR
• Repair any damaged sheathing pieces.
•

•

Seal air leaks and save energy!

Seal all exterior penetrations, such as
porch light fixtures, phone, security,
cable and electric service holes, with
caulk or spray foam.
If not using housewrap, seal all sheath­
ing seams with housewrap tape or caulk.

Buildings for
the 21st Century
Buildings that are more
energy-efficient, comfortable,
and affordable…that’s the
goal of DOE’s Office of Building
Technology, State and
Community Programs (BTS).
To accelerate the development
and wide application of energy
efficiency measures, BTS:
• Conducts R&D on technologies and concepts for energy
efficiency, working closely
with the building industry
and with manufacturers of
materials, equipment, and
appliances

WHAT IS AIR LEAKAGE?
Ventilation is fresh air that enters a house in a
controlled manner to exhaust excess moisture
and reduce odors and stuffiness. Air leakage,
or infiltration, is outside air that enters a house
uncontrollably through cracks and openings. It
is unwise to rely on air leakage for ventilation.
During cold or windy weather, too much air
may enter the house and, during warm or calm
weather, too little. Also, a leaky house that
allows moldy, dusty crawlspace or attic air to
enter is not healthy.

Annual Energy Costs for 1300 sq. ft. house

The recommended strategy in both new and old
homes is to reduce air leakage as much as possible and to provide controlled ventilation as
needed. For simple house designs, effective spot
ventilation, such as kitchen and bath fans that
exhaust to the outside, may be adequate. For
more complex houses or ones in colder
climates, whole house ventilation systems may
be appropriate. Such systems may incorporate
heat recovery, moisture control, or air filtering.

• Promotes energy/money
saving opportunities to both
builders and buyers of homes
and commercial buildings
• Works with State and local
regulatory groups to improve
building codes, appliance
standards, and guidelines for
efficient energy use
• Provides support and grants
to States and communities
for deployment of energyefficient technologies and
practices

noise, dust, and the entry of pollutants, insects,
and rodents. Reducing infiltration can significantly cut annual heating and cooling costs,
improve building durability, and create a
healthier indoor environment. The size of heating and cooling equipment can also be decreased, which saves additional dollars. Reducing air leakage in new homes, as required by
the 1995 Model Energy Code (see page 4),
typically costs less than $200 for the average
home and does not require specialized labor.

Kitchen
Range
Hood

Bath Fan

Kitchen and bath vents provide spot ventilation

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF AIR
SEALING?
Air infiltration can account for 30 percent or
more of a home’s heating and cooling costs
and contribute to problems with moisture,

Infiltration rate

Atlanta

High*

Low**

Heating
Cooling

$311
$196

$244
$178

Savings

$67
$18

* Estimated 12 air changes per hour at 50 Pascal pressure difference
** Estimated 6 air changes per hour at 50 Pascal pressure difference

WHAT IS AN
AIR BARRIER?
The ceilings, walls,
and floor/foundation
that separate the
inside conditioned
space from the outside or unconditioned space form the air barrier and the
insulation barrier for a house. These two
barriers differ by the materials used.
For most homes, the sheet goods that form the
ceilings, walls, and floor (such as drywall,
sheathing, and decking) are effective at stopping
air leakage. It is critical to seal all holes and
seams between these sheet goods with durable
caulks, gaskets, and foam sealants to create a

continuous air barrier. The insulation barrier is
usually made up of standard insulating materials, such as batt or loose fill products, that do
not seal against air leakage.

Printed with a renewable-source ink on paper containing at
least 50% wastepaper, including 20% postconsumer waste.
February 2000 DOE/GO-102000-0767

OFFICE OF BUILDING TECHNOLOGY, STATE AND COMMUNITY PROGRAMS
ENERGY EFFICIENCY AND RENEWABLE ENERGY • U.S. DEPARTMENT OF ENERGY



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Create Date                     : 2000:02:15 13:49:12Z
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Description                     : This fact sheet describes ventilation and the importance of sealing air leaks and providing controlled ventilation.
Creator                         : Southface Energy Institute
Title                           : Air Sealing
Subject                         : DOE/GO-102000-0767 ; NREL/BR-810-26446 ; February 2000 ; air leakage, infiltration, air barriers, sealing materials, drywall, checklist
Keywords                        : "DOE/GO-102000-0767 ; NREL/BR-810-26446 ; February 2000 ; air leakage, infiltration, air barriers, sealing materials, drywall, checklist"
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Author                          : Southface Energy Institute
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