Cat Owners Manual

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Congratulations on adding a new member to your household!
We hope that your cat will bring you years of joy and we’ve included some information in this packet that
should help you along toward this goal.
You will receive your new friend’s health records with information on vaccination dates and any treatments
or procedures the cat had during its stay at C.A.R.E. You will want to have this with you at the cat’s first visit
with your own vet. We recommend establishing a relationship between you, your cat, and your vet at your
earliest convenience.
In the event you do not have a regular vet, we’ve provided you with information on how to choose a vet.
You’ll also find information about local emergency animal centers, information on handling common
(though not always appreciated) feline behaviors, basic tips on cat C.A.R.E. and a list of resources should
anything arise that we don’t cover in your adoption packet.
Please understand that while bringing this cat into your home is a wonderful thing, it can still be a stressful
change for your kitty. We strongly urge you to give your cat a few days to adapt to all these changes. Keep
him or her in a small room, even a bathroom, for a couple of days so your kitty can get used to life outside
a cage, and get to know you. This step is even more critical if you have adopted an especially shy cat.
Spend several 20 minute to one-half hour sessions with your new cat. Use this time to let your kitty know
that you are the source of all things good...food, petting, and play. Gradually introduce your cat to the rest
of your home. If you move too fast, you might find that your cat will hide a lot, perhaps only coming out
while you’re asleep to check you out.
Don’t be alarmed if kitty doesn’t eat a lot for the first day or so. Sometimes cats develop little stress colds
after moving into their new home. This is generally nothing to be alarmed about, but do make sure that the
cat is eating and not overly congested. Call your adoption counselor and your vet if the cat does not eat
for more than 2 days or seems lethargic.
Your adoption counselor will be calling you after a day or so to see how your kitty is adjusting to its new
environment. Please do not hesitate to call your counselor or the C.A.R.E. voicemail (847-705-2653) in the
meantime should you have any questions.
As you and your new cat adjust to each other, please keep in mind the adoption counselors and other
feline volunteers at C.A.R.E. are happy to provide you additional information or resources throughout your
cat’s lifetime. For example, if you need help learning to trim your cat’s nails, or need help trimming the nails,
you can schedule a nail trim at C.A.R.E.
We look forward to a long and satisfying relationship with you...and for you and your cat. Please let us
know how your cat is doing....we love receiving holiday cards and photos, and hearing stories about your
cat in his or her new home!

Table of Contents
Adopters Resource Page – “Things Your Cat Wants You to Know” ............................. 1
Why Two Kittens ........................................................................................................... 2
Cat Proofing Your Home............................................................................................... 3
Kitten Proofing Your Home................................................................................. 5
Allergies and Your Cat .................................................................................................. 6
Owner Allergic Reactions ................................................................................... 6
Introducing Your Cat .................................................................................................... 7
To Your Home.................................................................................................... 7
To Other Cats..................................................................................................... 9
To Dogs............................................................................................................ 11
Feeding Guidelines ..................................................................................................... 13
Food Ingredients ......................................................................................................... 16
Behavior...................................................................................................................... 18
Aggression ....................................................................................................... 18
Over-stimulation ............................................................................................... 18
Stress ............................................................................................................... 19
Alpha Females ................................................................................................. 20
Head-Bumps and Cheek Rubs......................................................................... 21
Indoor Cats ................................................................................................................. 22
Litter and Litterbox Tips .............................................................................................. 24
Preventing & Problem Solving.......................................................................... 24
Health ......................................................................................................................... 26
Selecting a Vet ................................................................................................. 26
Local Emergency Animal Centers .................................................................... 26
AAFP Pre-Vet Checklist ................................................................................... 27
AAFP Senior Cat Checklist .............................................................................. 28
Toxic Substances............................................................................................. 29
Nails and Nail Trimming.............................................................................................. 32
Appointments with CARE for Trimming ............................................................ 33
“Think Twice Before You Declaw” by Steve Dale............................................. 34
Postures of the Cat ..................................................................................................... 38

Things Your Cat Wants You To Know
Useful Websites
Behavior
•

Various topics: http://www.aafponline.org/resources/
practice_guidelines.htm. American Association of Feline Practitioners.

•

Various topics: http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/brochures/index.htm.
Cornell Feline Health Center.

Declawing
•

http://stevedalepetworld.com/images/stories/declawing.pdf

Health
•

Comprehensive articles and issues. http://www.sheltermedicine.com/
portal/infosheets.shtml#top3. Univ. of CA, Davis

•

Diabetes, Urinary Tract, Gastrointestinal, etc.: http://
www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/brochures/index.htm. Cornell Feline Health
Center

•

Nutrition and Feeding: http://www.catinfo.org/. Linda A. Pierson, DVM

Important Phone
Numbers
C.A.R.E. Hotline
(847) 705-2653
Poison Control Center—
Animal
(888) 426-4435
*A consultation fee may be
applied to your credit card*
Avid Microchip
(800) 336-2843

C.A.R.E. Adoption Counselor

Infectious Diseases

Name:

•

FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis): Go to “Library” at http://
www.winnfelinehealth.org/index.html. Winn Feline Foundation.

Phone:

•

FIP, FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus), FeLV (Feline Leukemia Virus):
http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/brochures/index.htm. Cornell Feline
Health Center

Links to Links

Kitten Care

• www.catwellness.org/

•

• www.stevedalepetworld.com/
images/stories/resourcelist.pdf

Comprehensive kitten care information. http://www.catchannel.com/
kittens/default.aspx. Cat Channel

Senior Care
•
•

http://www.aafponline.org/resources/practice_guidelines.htm. American
Association of Feline Practitioners
http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/brochures/index.htm. Cornell Feline
Health Center

Just Plain Fun...AND Informative
•

Create a web page for your cat, chat groups, more links. http://
www.catster.com

•

Create a web page for your cat, blogs, more links. http://
www.catchannel.com

C.A.R.E. Website
http://www.care-evanston.org/

www.CAREnorthshore.org
links.htm
• Fundraising activities
• Happy Tails
• Volunteer opportunities
• More links to helpful re-

sources

Why Kittens & Young Cats Should Be Adopted In Pairs
Credit and Thanks to PAWS Chicago Adoption Program for this article

Kittens are curious and crave constant stimulation. A single, bored kitten will often
entertain itself by chewing on plants, climbing drapes, climbing furniture, unrolling toilet
paper, exploring electrical cords and sockets, etc. This is not to say that kittens who live
with other kittens won't also sometimes do these things, but if they have another kitten to
tumble around and play with, it is less likely that they will need to entertain themselves
with behaviors like these, which at the least are destructive and at the worst can be very dangerous.
Kittens tend to be very active at night. A single kitten is likely to keep the owner awake with constant
jumping, pouncing and other hunting behavior directed at any portion of the owner's body, which moves
under the bed linens. With a companion to play with after the owner has gone to bed, this behavior is
minimized as the two will occupy each other by finding interesting shadows to chase and games to play until
they finally tire and fall asleep too.
Kittens want and need interaction with others of their own kind for healthy social development. A kitten learns
a lot in the first several months of life from its mother and littermates. Separating a
kitten from its mother is often a necessity in order for it to be adopted, but taking it
away from its littermates and isolating it can delay the kitten's development
emotionally, socially and sometimes physically. Kittens that are able to remain with
one of their littermates or a similarly aged companion, tend to be healthier and
happier, and in the end, better socialized pets than those who are isolated from
others of their kind at an early age.
Anyone who has observed kittens know they want to bite and wrestle with one another--this behavior is
normal. You cannot prevent a kitten from doing what comes naturally anymore than you can force a twoyear-old toddler to sit still. Though it is not acceptable for a kitten to bite and wrestle with its human
companions, in the absence of having a littermate or companion its own age to play with, this is precisely
what a single kitten will want to do. Even if you are willing to allow (and can tolerate) this behavior from your
kitten when it is small, by the time the animal matures, you will end up with an adult cat who has developed
very bad habits (for example, biting and scratching as "play").
Humans, even loving, caring humans, are not an adequate substitute for a cat in lieu of one of its own kind.
Even if the owner is fortunate enough to be home quite a bit, the amount of attention a lone kitten will
demand is likely to occupy all of the owner's waking hours at home. A pair of kittens will definitely still want to
interact with the owner, but can keep each other occupied while the owner is doing such necessary tasks as
working, paying bills, having telephone conversations, gardening, laundry, etc. Most cats, regardless of their
age, are highly sociable and are truly happier living with other cat companions. This in turn makes them
better pets, which results in happier owners.
Particularly if there is already an older cat in the household, a kitten should not
be brought in as a lone companion. As mentioned above, a youngster has
boundless energy, wants to play and run constantly, and requires very high
amounts of interaction, all of which are likely to overwhelm and irritate an older
cat in short order. Likewise, a kitten is apt to be frustrated that its companion
does not have the same energy level as itself. At the very least, this can lead to
two very unhappy cats. Worse-case scenario, behavior problems such as litter
box avoidance or destructive scratching can occur if one or both cats act out their frustrations on their
surroundings. Longer-term, it is almost certain that the two will never have a close, bonded relationship, even
after the kitten matures, since their experiences with one another from the beginning of the relationship are
likely to be negative. An older cat is better matched with someone of his or her own age, who has a similar
temperament.
Adopting a single kitten or young cat is simply not a good idea. Trying to keep a single kitten occupied,
stimulated, safe and happy while also going about the business of everyday life is much more of a challenge
than it may seem upon first consideration.

How To Cat-Proof Your Home
Stuff
Ø

Protect Valuables

Cats are curious. That’s one of their main jobs – being curious. So you won't want
to leave your Ming Dynasty antique vase sitting on the coffee table. Because
about ten seconds into Kitty’s first exploration of the house, she will spring up on
the table and topple the Ming Dynasty. Vase, that is.

Ø Breakables
Put away any breakable treasures that are remotely accessible to your cat. Jumping up onto
high places (like shelves and counters) is innate cat behavior; trying to stop it will be stressful
for both you and kitty. Instead, put yourself into the mind of the cat, look around, and
remove anything you value.
Ø Other Destroyables
Kittens will climb your furniture and drapes. Consider covering cloth furniture with a
purchased cover, or even with a blanket or bedspread. Confine drapes to off-limit rooms.

Poisonous Plants

Kittens and adult cats love to play with plants – the motion of leaves moving in a draft is irresistable.
Unfortunately, part of their play involves biting and tasting – eating some plants can be fatal, so get
rid of those, or hang them safely out of reach. For a comprehensive list of list of plants poisonous to
pets, read the “Poisonous Plants” article in this series.

The Garage

It's best just to make the garage off-limits to your cat. Too many poisonous/hazardous materials are
stored there. Anti-freeze is the worst because pets are attracted by its taste. Clean up all spilled antifreeze pronto.

Other Hazards
Ø

Hanging blinds cords

Electrical and phone cords

Pest Poisons

Small Hazards

Kittens will love to bat around cords from hanging blinds, but can also get tangled up in them
with disastrous consequences. The safest bet is to tie the cords up out of reach.
Kittens' insatiable curiosity often leads them to one of the most dangerously temptable objects
in the house: electric cords. Invest in a cord management system or tape the cords together
and fasten them out of reach. Do the same with long phone cords.
Remove any ant or roach traps from accessible areas.
Rubber bands, paper clips, thumb tacks, broken balloons, Christmas tree tinsel and other
small articles are tempting play objects for cats, but pose a choking hazard. Put them away in
containers, and leave the tinsel off the tree this year. Keep plastic bags and bags with small
handles out of reach of your cat.

The Safe Room

Set aside a "safe room" for your new arrival. Put her food dish, water, litter box, toys, scratching post
and bed in it. Give this room a thorough going over. Once kitty is comfortable in her new
surroundings, it will be time to let her explore the rest of your happily cat-proofed home.

Welcome home, Kitty!
To view the complete collection of Shelter Sheets, visit www.cats.about.com/library/nosearch/blss.htm
© 2001 by Franny Syufy, licensed to About.com, Inc. Used by permission of About.com, Inc.,
http://www.About.com.
All rights reserved.

A KITTEN-PROOF HOME
Kittens are curious creatures capable of jumping onto high surfaces or squeezing into
the smallest of spaces. To protect your kitten in his/her new environment, and to
safeguard your belongings, consider kitten proofing your house. It is easy - here’s how:

Kitchens/Bathrooms:
Use childproof latches to keep little paws from prying open cabinets.
Keep medications, cleaners, chemicals, and laundry supplies on high shelves
Keep trash cans covered or inside a latched cabinet
Make sure the kitten hasn’t jumped into the dryer before you turn it on
Keep all foods out of reach (even if the food isn’t harmful, the wrapper could be *
Store all plastic (grocery/store) bags out of reach for the kitten (they are covered with
animal fats so kittens like to lick/suck on them or they can get the handle stuck on
their head)

Living/family room:

Place dangling wires from lamps, VCR’s televisions, stereos, and phones out of
reach
Keep kids toys put away
Put away knick-knacks until your kitten has the coordination not to knock them over
Check all of the places where your vacuum cleaner doesn’t fit, but your kitten does ,
for dangerous items, like string
Move house plants-which can be poisonous – out of reach, including hanging plants
that can be jumped onto from nearby surfaces
Tie hanging blinds up and out of reach
Remove all small hazards such as rubber bands, paper clips, thumb tacks, broken
balloons which pose a choking hazard

Bedrooms:

Keep laundry and shoes behind closed doors (drawstrings and buttons can cause
major problems)
Keep and medications, lotions, or cosmetics off accessible surfaces (like the bedside
table)
Move electrical and phone wires out of reach of chewing

Coping with Allergies
At least 1 in 3 cat owners has allergies to their feline companion. For many pet lovers, the
benefits of animal companionship outweigh the drawbacks of allergy symptoms.
Yet, despite that statistic, cats are the most popular pet in America. There are ways to co-exist
with your fluffy allergen.
First, it is important to note that cat allergies are triggered by a protein in the cat’s skin, saliva
and urine and NOT by the hair itself. That said, cats do groom themselves several times during
the day hence leaving tiny particles of this protein (called dander) on the fur. This becomes
airborne when it dries, allowing it to be inhaled or stick to various surfaces in your home,
including carpeting, furniture, walls and bedding. You may also find you are allergic to Siamese
but not Persians, or orange tabbies but not black cats.
Be aware that kittens often do not cause allergic reactions until they become adults. You might
want to consider an adult cat you do not react to rather than take a chance on a kitten only to
find you are extremely sensitive to it when it grows up.
You should consult an allergist to determine if you are truly allergic to cats, and/or other
allergens. Generally, people who are allergic to one thing are allergic to several. Common
allergens are pollen, mold, grass, trees, and dust mites. Allergies often work in combination, so
exposure to one allergen can intensify your reaction to another. You may want to consider
medications, immunotherapy (allergy shots) or simple housekeeping practices to reduce your
exposure.
Top Ten (OK, 11) Tips for Coping with Allergies to Cats (or anything else for that matter)
1. Always have a “safe” room where you can retreat, generally your bedroom. Do not allow
the cat in this room. Do NOT let the cat sleep on your bed!!! Keep an air purifier (ideally
with a HEPA filter) in this room as well. Wash bedding in hot water (140° F) at least
twice a month. This will also kill off dust mites (another big allergen).
2. Thoroughly clean your home to remove cat allergens from carpets, drapes, upholstered
furniture, walls. Vacuum often using a filter with a high allergy containment rating. You
might want to consider replacing carpeting with hardwood flooring.
3. Check with your veterinarian for products (such as Allerpet) to reduce dander. These
can be wiped over the cat’s fur. Or, try a micro fiber cloth. If your cat is agreeable, you
can try bathing your cat weekly. Sometimes wiping the cat with a cloth moistened with
distilled water will do the trick.
4. If possible, have someone who is non-allergic do the bathing/grooming. Restrict the
grooming to an easy to clean room.
5. Consult an allergist to help determine the most effective form of allergy
control/treatment. Find a doctor who understands your commitment to your cat.
6. Place allergen-impermeable covers on mattresses, box springs and pillows to prevent
previously accumulated allergens from escaping and from allowing more allergens to be
captured.
7. Medications (over-the-counter and prescription).
8. Allergy shots (immunotherapy).
9. Use air purifiers with HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) filters to help trap allergens.
10. Ventilate the house frequently and keep furnaces, air ducts and air conditioner filters
clean.
11. Wash your hands after handling the cat…and do not touch your eyes!!
6

Bringing Your New Cat Home
© The Humane Society of The United States (www.hsus.org)

Congratulations! You are the proud new owner of a cat. No doubt you're looking forward to
years of happy companionship. But what do you do now?
The first thing you should know about your new pet is that most cats hate to travel. After the ride
home from the animal shelter, he will, most likely, not be in the mood for fun. For the trip home,
confine your pet in a sturdy cat carrier. Don't leave him loose in your car where he might panic
and cause an accident.
To make his transition to your household as comfortable as possible, select a quiet, closed-in
area such as your bedroom or a small room away from the main foot traffic, and provide him
with a litter box. Let your new pet become acquainted with that limited area for the first few
days. Let him sniff all your belongings and investigate all the hiding places. Over a few days,
slowly introduce him to the rest of your house, including the other pets and household members.
It will take a little while, but he will eventually begin to feel at home.
Cats vary in terms of how demanding they are as pets, so let yours guide you to the level of
attention he wants, whether it's your hand for petting or your lap for sitting. Provide him with the
necessary creature comforts and give him the companionship he seeks, and he will be content.
The following is a mini-primer of cats' requirements for a happy life:
Cleanliness. Your new cat will prize a clean environment and a clean body.
Cats are naturally fastidious and most will instinctively use a litter box; for
some, you may need to place the cat in the box and make little scratching
motions with their front paws so they get the idea. Many place such a
premium on cleanliness that you should clean the box daily or several times
a week. Cats also value privacy, so place the litter box in a convenient but
secluded spot.
Most cats will spend hours grooming themselves, but even the most avid groomer can use a
little help from time to time. Nail clipping and ear and teeth cleaning are tasks you can do to
keep your cat well groomed. Even short-haired cats benefit from weekly brushing, a task that
can be pleasurable for both of you.
Security. Provide your cat with safety and security. Always use a cat carrier when transporting
your pet. Protect him by making certain that all windows are securely screened,
and that the washer and dryer are kept closed and are inspected before each
use. Get into the habit of ensuring that drawers, closets, and cupboards are
uninhabited before you close them. And for your own security, put a collar and
tag on your feline—there's always the chance he may slip outside by mistake,
and you want to make sure he can be identified as your pet.

Health Care. Animal shelters take in animals with widely varying backgrounds, some of whom
have not been previously vaccinated. Despite the best efforts of shelter workers, viruses can
spread and may occasionally go home with adopted animals. If you already have dogs or cats
at home, make sure they are up-to-date on their shots—including feline leukemia—and in good
general health before introducing your new cat.
Take your new cat to the veterinarian within a week after adoption. There,
he will receive a health check and any needed vaccinations. If your cat has
not been spayed or neutered, make that appointment! There are already far
too many unwanted kittens and cats; do not let your new pet add to the
problem. Most likely, the shelter will require that you have your pet spayed
or neutered anyway. If you need more information about why it is
important to spay or neuter your cat, read our online information on spaying
and neutering.
House Rules. Provide your cat with some "basic training" to help him get along in your home.
It's true that cats usually have their own ideas about how to do things. Even so, most cats can
be taught to obey simple rules like not scratching the couch, eating plants, or jumping up on the
kitchen counter. With repeated, gentle, and consistent training, your cat will learn.
Yelling at your cat never works. Instead, positively reward him and provide him with alternative
choices. A good scratching post—coupled with the handy squirt gun filled with water—can save
your couch, your chair, and your nerves. If you help your cat understand the rules and give him
a satisfying outlet for his scratching impulses, there will be no need to have him declawed, an
unnecessary operation no cat should endure.
Room for Fun. Finally, provide your cat with an interesting indoor environment. Cats love to
play and will appreciate simple and inexpensive toys. Ping-Pong balls and paper bags can
provide hours of fun. A comfortable perch by a window can become your cat's very own
entertainment and relaxation center.
Toys are very important for cats. They not only fight boredom, they also give cats a chance to
express their prey-chasing drives. If you're the one moving the toy while your cat chases after it,
playtime can be a bonding experience for both of you.
Enjoy Your Rewards. Now that you've made certain all the basic provisions are attended to,
you can relax and enjoy your new pet. It may take a couple of weeks for him to adjust to life with
you. But before you know it, you'll be curled up on the couch together, watching TV like old pals,
and you won't remember what life was like without him.

How To Introduce Your New Cat to Other Cats

“Slowly” and “Patiently” are the Operative Words
Although sometimes cats will get along swimmingly in just a couple of hours, you should
not be surprised to have a battle on your hands if you try to introduce your new cat too
quickly. The time you spend on this all-important process will be saved exponentially by
not having to break up conflicts every day.

The Steps to Take
Ø Set up a comfortable “safe room” for New Cat. Put her food, water, litter box (not
near the food), scratching post, toys, and bed or other sleeping mat there.
Ø Expect a great deal of “hissy-spitty” behavior from both cats. This is natural and
normal; they are just starting to explore their “pecking order.”
Ø Scent is very important for cats. Let each of them smell the other indirectly, by
rubbing a towel on one and letting the other smell it. They will soon accept the scent
as a normal part of the house.
Ø Once or twice, switch roles. Put New Cat in the normal living quarters, and let your
resident cat sniff out the new cat’s Safe Room.
Ø After a day or so, let the two cats sniff each other through a baby-gate or through a
barely-opened door. Gauge the rate at which they seem to be acclimating to each
other
Ø When you think they’re ready, let them mingle under your supervision. Ignore
hissing and growling, but you may have to intervene if a physical battle breaks out.
Again, take this step slowly, depending on how quickly they get along. If they do
seem to tolerate each other, even begrudgingly, praise both of them profusely.
Ø Make their first activities together enjoyable ones so they will learn to associate
pleasure with the presence of the other cat. Feeding (with their own separate
dishes), playing, and petting. Keep up with the praise.
Ø If things start going badly, separate them again, and then start where you left off. If
one cat seems to consistently be the aggressor, give her some “time out,” then try
again a little bit later.
The introduction can take from two hours to six months, so don’t be discouraged if your
cats don’t seem to get along well at first. Often the case is that they will eventually be
“best buddies.”

Factors to Consider
Ø If you are thinking of getting a kitten to keep an older cat company, you might want
to consider two kittens. They will be able to keep each other company while the
older cat learns to love them
Ø If you already have more than one cat, use the “alpha cat” for preliminary
introductions. Once he/she accepts the newcomer, the other resident cats will
quickly fall in line.
Ø Lots of snuggle-time and attention is indicated for all cats concerned during this
period. Remember, the prime goal is to get them to associate pleasure with the
presence of each other.
Ø If possible, ask a friend to deliver the new cat to your home, in her cage. You can
9

act nonchalant, as if it’s no big deal, then later let your resident cat(s) think it’s their
idea to welcome the newcomer.
With patience and perseverance, you can turn what might appear at first as an “armed
camp” into a haven of peace for your integrated feline family. Congratulations on giving
another cat in need a permanent home!
To view more Shelter Sheets online, go to: http://cats.about.com/library/nosearch/blss.htm
© 2001 by Franny Syufy, licensed to About.com, Inc. Used by permission of About.com, Inc.,
http://www.About.com.
All rights reserved.

How To Introduce Your Dog to Your Cat
Dogs and cats can usually live together peacefully, although creating a harmonious “blended family”
requires some planning, patience, and careful guidance on your part. In some cases
your dog and cat will become best friends (see picture, above). Some dogs
unfortunately will be too dangerous for your cat, and one of the most important points
of this article is that you need to recognize when this is the case. This sheet
specifically is about introducing a new dog to a resident cat; a separate (though
similar) sheet will talk about introducing a new cat to a dog.

Before the Introduction

You will have better chance of success if:

× Your dog is a puppy. A puppy who grows up with a cat is likely to see the cat as part of
the pack.
You will have less chance of success if:
× Your dog has an aggressive or predatory nature. An aggressive dog can seriously
injure or kill a cat.
Ø Your cat is a small kitten, or is declawed, handicapped, or elderly. A kitten can be
injured by an overly playful dog. Declawed, older, or handicapped cats are less
equipped to defend themsleves.
Preparation steps – important!
b Get to know your dog and cat well. Be able to interpret their body language and sense
their moods.
× Your dog should be well-trained, and respond to commands to come, stay, and sit. Ø
You should also know how to blend mild discipline and positive redirection to gently
influence your cat’s behavior.
Do not proceed with the introduction until you have completed the steps in this
section.

The Introduction
× Beforehand, exercise your dog and feed him a nice meal; put him in a relaxed mood.
× Put your dog on a short leash or in his crate. Ø Put your cat in her carrier if she’s a
scaredy-cat by nature; otherwise let her walk around. Be armed with lots of treats for
good behavior.
× Let dog and cat check each other out at a distance. Pet and talk to your dog
soothingly. It’s not time for dog to approach cat just yet. Give your dog and cat some
treats and praise as rewards.
× If your dog bolts toward your cat, correct him with the leash. If he shows any signs of
excessive excitability, calm him. If this doesn’t do the trick, cut the visit short and try
again later.
× Repeat these short visits several times a day, gradually giving your dog more leash as
appropriate.
Do not move to the next phase until you have several consecutive days of
incident-free visits in which both animals demonstrate to your satisfaction that
they are comfortable with each other.

Proceed with Caution
Once your dog and cat consistently get along during leashed visits, you’re ready for the next
step. Take your dog off the leash, and supervise the two closely. If you see problems, and
they don’t abate with a few simple voice commands, back up to the previous phase for a
few days. Gradually make the no-leash sessions longer. Do not leave the cat and dog alone
until you’re sure they’re both fully comfortable with each other and there will be no trouble.
Make sure your cat has places she can jump to for safety. Make some private space in your
home for each animal. Use cat doors or baby gates if practical, as well as gentle discipline
and rewards to enforce the rules. Keep kitty’s litter box and food bowl out of your dog’s
reach. Now relax and give these guys some hugs.

When it Doesn’t Work Out
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, it wasn’t meant to be. Some dogs are simply too
dangerous to be around cats (occasionally the reverse is true). If your gut is telling you that
this isn’t working out, respect that message. The humane thing to do in this case is contact
the shelter or breeder so that you can find a good cat-free home for the dog. In the interim,
keep dog and cat separated and give them both lots of love.

To view more Shelter Sheets online, go to: http://cats.about.com/library/nosearch/blss.htm
© 2001 by Franny Syufy, licensed to About.com, Inc. Used by permission of About.com, Inc.,
http://www.About.com.
All rights reserved.

Cat Food Recommendations

Cats evolved from a desert-dwelling animal
where small prey was abundant; vegetation
and water were sparse. As a result, a cat’s
digestive system became very efficient at
converting fat and protein into energy, but has
difficulty processing carbohydrates. In addition,
cats are designed to obtain most of their water
through their prey which typically consists of
75% water.

Need Moisture From Food: WATER is vital
to your cat’s health. Dry foods only contain 10
percent water whereas canned foods
contain approximately 78 percent water. A cat
whose diet consists of mostly dry food will
drink more water than a cat eating canned
food, but in the end, when water from all
sources is added together (what’s in their diet
plus what they drink), the cat on dry food
consumes approximately half the amount of
water compared with a cat eating canned
foods. Since cats do not have a strong thirst
drive compared to other mammals, it is critical
that they get plenty of moisture from their
food. This is crucial when one considers the
effects of chronic dehydration and how
common kidney and bladder problems are in
today’s cat.

Good Health is Related to Diet

What to Look For in Cat Food

There is a strong and logical connection
between the food cats eat and their long-term
health. Two common reasons for chronic feline
health problems are diets too high in
carbohydrates and too low
in moisture.

Wet/Canned Food: The key in choosing a
good type of food is to read the ingredients.
Avoid meat by-products. The more meat
ingredients in the first few positions, the better
the food.

Mother Nature Knows Best
Cats thrive on a diet that resembles their
natural diet; one rich in meatbased protein, with a high
moisture content, moderate
amounts of fat and little or no
carbohydrates.

Minimize Carbohydrates:
Dry foods may contain as
much as
50% carbohydrates. Since
cat’s cannot efficiently process carbohydrates,
they are stored as fat. This leads to obesity.
The effects of obesity are:
Heart disease because of the increased
workload on the heart.
Orthopedic problems are increased
because of increased physical stress on the
frame, leading to arthritis and early debilitation.
Diabetes, a condition in which the
pancreas doesn't produce the amount of
insulin that it should to help metabolize blood
sugar.
Several liver disorders occur more
frequently in overweight cats.

Here’s a good example of an ingredient list
from a high quality canned food: Turkey,
chicken, liver, chicken, chicken broth...
Here’s one from a low quality product: Meat
by-products, ocean fish, water, poultry byproducts, fish broth...
Canned/wet food is often considered better for
cats because it is closer to what they would eat
in the wild than dry food. Wet food has higher
levels of protein and moisture, and lower levels
of carbohydrates. Where wet food keeps your
cat hydrated, dry food
dehydrates your cat. Many
vets now recommend always
feeding wet food.
Dry Food: Again, the key to
choosing a good quality food
is to look for high quality protein ingredients as
13

the first few ingredients listed on the label. If
the first ingredient is meat, turkey or chicken
the label should say so.
Avoid foods with by-products listed in the first
few ingredients. A “by-product” (unrendered
parts of an animal left over after slaughter) can
include heads, feet, intestines, feathers, and
egg shells.
Avoid foods that list grain—like corn, corn
gluten meal, or rice—as any of the first few
ingredients. The main ingredient in a cat’s diet
should not be grain.
Here’s an example of the ingredient list taken
from the label of a high quality dry food:
Turkey, chicken, chicken meal, herring meal …
versus a low quality food product: Ground
yellow corn, corn gluten meal, chicken byproduct meal, meat and bone meal...
Avoid Fish Varieties: In general, the small
amounts of "fish meal" used as a flavoring
and/or source of omega-3 fatty acids in cat
foods are not a problem, but food with fish as a
main ingredient should not be a mainstay of

any cat's diet. It should be limited to an
occasional--and small—treat. Why?
Fish is one of the top 3 food allergens.
There is a known link between feeding fishtype canned cat foods and the development of
hyperthyroidism in older cats.
Fish varieties have increased ash and
magnesium content that can cause urinary
tract infections and blockages.
Fish may not be safe to feed to cats.
Predatory fish at the top of the food chain,
such as tuna and salmon, may contain very
elevated levels of heavy metals (including
mercury) as well as PCBs, pesticides, and
other toxins.

Keeping Kitty’s Teeth Clean
Some people believe that dry food
helps keep a cat’s teeth clean of
tarter build up. Most dry foods are
hard but brittle so that the kibble
shatters without much resistance;
there is little or no abrasive effect
from chewing. The best way to
keep your cat’s teeth clean and tarter free is to
brush them regularly.

Where to Find Quality Foods
You will find most premium quality cat foods at pet specialty stores not at the supermarket. Relying
on supermarket brands of cat food is analogous to feeding your children fast food for every meal.
These foods may be fine for an occasional treat but should not be fed every day.
Preiser Animal Hospital Pet Store
Evanger (manufacturer)
Pet Supply Plus locations

Chalet Nursery & Garden Shop
Noah’s Ark Pet Supply
City of Perrrect Pets
Barrington Barkery
Trader Joes Food Stores
Kiss my K-Nine

2975 Milwaukee, Northbrook
221 Wheeling Road, Wheeling
1634 Deerfield Rd, Highland Park
7220 W. Foster Rd. Chicago
1748 N. Harlem Ave., Elmwood Park
1168 Lee St., Des Plaines
7172 Dempster, Morton Grove
3640 N. Elston, Chicago
270 W. North Ave., Villa Park
67-71 West Golf Rd, Arlington Hts
1206 W. Dundee, Buffalo Grove
915 E. Roosevelt, Wheaton
15 W. Ogden Ave., Westmont
3132 Lake Ave Wilmette
831 Elm St, Winnetka
630 Busse Hwy, Park Ridge
110 Barrington Commons Court, Barrington

(847) 827-5200
(847) 537-0102

(847) 920-2800
(847) 784-0125
(847) 698-0140
(847) 381-3420

1640 Orrington Av, Evanston

(847) 424-0517

Sources and Recommended links
•catnutrition.org
•maxshouse.com/feline_nutrition.htm
•catinfo.org
•felinediabetes.com/hodgkinsarticle.htm
•littlebigcat.com

Check out the excellent videos on how to: pill your cat, brush their teeth, & trim their nails at
www.felinevideos.vet.cornell.edu

Author: Lori Festenstein, Heartland Animal Shelter, January 2007

Quality Cat Foods – Ingredients List
PREMIUM FOOD
Wellness

Can

Dry

Natural Balance

Felidae

Nature's Variety
Prairie

California Natural

Innova Evo

Merrick

Eagle Pack

Innova

Newman’s Own

Evolve

Pinnacle

Nutro Natural Choice

Nutro Max Cat &
Gourmet Classics
Precise

INGREDIENTS (First Ingredients - poultry or main variety )
Deboned Chicken, Chicken Meal, Chicken Liver, Ground Brown Rice, Ground Whole Oats,
Canola Oil (preserved with mixed
Turkey, Chicken Liver, Chicken, Chicken Broth, Sweet Potatoes, Carrots, Natural Chicken
Flavor, Guar Gum, Carrageenan,
Chicken Meal, Chicken, Brown Rice, Duck Meal, Barley, Oatmeal, Chicken Fat (Preserved
With Mixed Tocopherols), Potatoes,
Turkey, Turkey Broth, Chicken Liver, Poultry Giblets, Carrots, Brown Rice Flour, Fish
Meal, Lecithin, Dried Cranberries,
Chicken Meal, Turkey Meal, Brown Rice, Lamb Meal, Chicken Fat, (Preserved with mixed
Tocopherols), Herring Meal, Eggs,
Chicken, Turkey, Chicken Broth, Chicken Liver, Herring (Source of Omega 3), Lamb,
Brown Rice, Eggs, Sun Cured Alfalfa
Chicken Meal, Brown Rice, Oatmeal, Chicken Fat (preserved with Mixed Tocopherols and
Citric Acid), Menhaden Fish Meal
Chicken, Turkey, Chicken Broth, Chicken Liver, Carrots, Peas, Tricalcium Phosphate,
Lecithin, Calcium Carbonate, Egg
Chicken, Chicken Meal, Ground Brown Rice, Chicken Fat, Sunflower Oil, Flaxseed, Natural
Flavors, Taurine,
Chicken, Chicken Broth, Herring, Egg, Ground Brown Rice, Sunflower Oil, Flaxseed, Guar
Gum, Taurine, Vitamins/Minerals
Turkey, Chicken, Chicken Meal, Herring Meal, Potato, Chicken Fat, Eggs, Turkey Meal,
Natural Flavors, Apples, Carrots,
Turkey, Chicken, Turkey Broth, Chicken Broth, Chicken Meal, Herring, Carrots, Whole
Eggs, Salmon Meal, Natural Flavors,
n/a
Chicken, Chicken Broth, Turkey Liver, Fresh Red Jacket New Potatoes, Fresh Carrots,
Fresh Snow Peas, Fresh Apples, Potato
Turkey, Turkey Broth, Chicken, Chicken Liver, Barley, Dried Egg Product, Carrots, Peas,
Potatoes, Guar Gum, Brewers Dried
Turkey, Chicken Meal, Chicken, Potatoes, Egg, Ground Barley, Chicken Fat, Rice, Herring,
Sunflower oil, Apples, Carrots, Whole Pasteurized Milk, Fish Oil, Taurine, Alfalpha
Sprouts, Vitamins/Minerals
Turkey, chicken, Chicken Broth, Whole Eggs, Chicken Meal, Herring, Potatoes, Carrots,
Brown Rice, Natural Flavors, Applies,
Organic Chicken, Chicken Meal, Organic Rice, Organic Milo, Organic Barley, Organic Oats,
Organic Ground Flax Seed, Fish
Organic Chicken, Sufficient Water for Processing, Ocean Whitefish, Brown Rice, Flaxseed,
Oat Bran, Guar Gum, Dried Kelp,
Chicken, Chicken Meal, Brown Rice, Brewers Rice, Chicken Fat (preserved with mixed
tocopherols, citric acid, and rosemary
Turkey, Turkey Broth, Turkey Liver, Chicken, Ocean Fish, Brown Rice, Carrots,
Cranberries, Cottage Cheese, Peas, Egg,
Chicken, Chicken Broth, Chicken Giblets, Tuna, Mackerel, Turkey, Kidney, Oat Bran,
Quinoa Seed, Egg Product, Guar Gum
Chicken Broth, Chicken, Chicken Liver, Cod, Turkey, Ground Rice, Herring Meal, Oat
Fiber, Lamb, Flaxseed Meal, Dried Beet
Turkey Broth, Turkey, Chicken, Chicken Liver, Wheat Gluten, Rice Flour, Dried Egg
Product, Natural Flavor,Food Starch, Salt,
Turkey, Turkey Broth, Chicken Liver, Brown Rice, Oat Bran, Dried Egg Product, Lecithin,
Brewers Dried Yeast, Guar Gum,

The No-No List
Do not feed your cat the following:
¾ Alcoholic beverages
¾ Chocolate
¾ Coffee
¾ Grapes & raisins
¾ Moldy or spoiled food
¾ Onions, garlic & chives
¾ Poultry bones
¾ Salt & salty foods
¾ Tomato leaves, stems & unripe fruit
¾ Yeast dough

Oh those quirky, but not necessarily appreciated feline
behaviors!
Cats are generally delightful pets, giving us endless joy with their presence. They can also be
amazingly confusing animals, seemingly delighting in bewildering mere humans with all manner of
behaviors. Below are some common behaviors you may encounter in the years you share with your
feline friend, along with some ways to cope with or change them. Be sure to check with your vet if
any change of behavior occurs suddenly as there could be a medical issue involved.

Aggressive Behavior:
Declawed cats biting:
Unfortunately, some declawed cats behave aggressively at times. It is possible they feel
defenseless and resort to biting as a means of communication.
You may or may not be able to train your cat to bite less. She must feel as comfortable as
possible - she's biting because she feels threatened. When working to retrain your cat to bite
less, introduce something that makes her uncomfortable ONLY when she misbehaves. For
example, at the exact moment she tries to bite, quickly mist her with a spray bottle (do not
spray directly in her eyes), or shake a can that has a few coins in it or make another startling
noise. Next, if she is biting when she interacts with you, and it is pleasurable for her (such as
petting or playing), stop interacting with her immediately. These tactics
will require a lot of patience and may never completely stop the biting
behavior.

Petting Aggression (over stimulation):

Some experienced cat owners are familiar with this problem: you’re
petting Kitty, she seems to like it because she is purring and suddenly,
CHOMP! Her teeth are firmly planted on your hand!
The consensus is that the cat is over stimulated during petting, and can´t quite figure out how to
tell you to stop. The best thing to do is DON´T PANIC. Slowly withdraw your hand and move
away from the cat. If you are holding kitty at the time, pull your hands away and allow her to
retreat, or stand up and let her jump to the floor.
Learn how to recognize signals that precede biting: wildly flicking tail, ears laid back, dilated
pupils, or body tensing. When you notice any of these, stop touching kitty and allow her to move
away on her own.
When training your kitty, start with short time periods of petting then slowly increase the length
of time. Always back away slowly when the cat shows signs of frustration.
Then there are some cats that prefer other methods of human interaction besides petting; for
those animals try playing with them more and petting them less.

Play Biting/Aggression:
It is best to understand kitty’s behavior, before attempting to change it. Under-stimulation, an
excess of unused energy, and lack of appropriate opportunities for play can also lead to
undesirable behavior. This may be exhibited as overly rambunctious or aggressive play, which
inadvertently may lead to injuries to people. In some cases, the play can include a number of
components of the cat’s predatory nature including the stalk, pounce, and bite. Although this
type of play is usually more common in kittens, it may persist through adulthood.

Cat play is simulated best with objects that can be stalked, chased, swatted, or pounced upon.
Providing ample opportunities for self-play aids in reducing play with owners. In addition, before
you consider using an interruption or punishment device (water sprayer, alarm, and compressed
air), the cat should first receive a sufficient number of play alternatives. Anticipate your cat’s
need to play and initiate interactive play sessions. Play toward the owners (including ambushing
and ankle biting), which is initiated by the cat, should never be tolerated. Successful interactive
toys include wiggling ropes, wands, dangling toys, and toys that are thrown or rolled for the cat
to chase. Toys that dangle on strings or ropes should only be used with human supervision to
avoid circulation or nerve injuries – or worse, strangulation.
For self-play, provide your cat with toys such as ping-pong balls, walnuts in the shell, catnipfilled toys, battery-operated or spring-mounted toys, scratching posts, or toys within containers
that deliver food or treats when scratched or manipulated. Hiding treats in various locations
stimulates searching behavior that cats enjoy. Bird feeders outside of windows occupy some
cats, while others might be interested in videos for cats. Cats with a strong desire for social play
benefit from a second kitten to act as a playmate -- provided both are adequately socialized and
properly introduced.

Redirected (or misplaced) aggression:
One of the most difficult types of aggression for owners to understand is called “redirected
aggression.” In this form of aggression, a cat generally attacks the closest object, often a family
member or a cat in the same household, when it is frightened or excessively aroused by a
stimulus that is inaccessible. The most common stimuli leading to redirected aggression are the
presence of another cat, high-pitched noises, visitors in a house, a dog, an
unusual odor, and being outdoors unexpectedly.
If your cat becomes agitated, first, avoid her until she calms down. If aggression
is redirected toward another cat in the household, the two cats may have to be
separated. With some cats, this separation may only need to last a few minutes,
but with others, it may take hours. In rare cases, it may take several days or the
cat may remain aggressive. This is most likely if the redirected aggression was met with
retaliation, punishment or other form of fearful event (perhaps in an effort to separate the cat
from the victim). If the attack leads to a change in relationship between the cat and the victim
(fear, defensiveness) then the aggression may persist.
The best way to calm an agitated cat is to put her in a darkened room and leave her there. If
she is too stimulated, leave the cat alone in the room. Picking up an angry cat can lead to bites
and/or scratches to the guardian. Some cats may need to be kept in the room anywhere from
several minutes to several days. The guardian can go in, turn on the light, offer food to the cat,
and if she remains fearful or does not accept the food, the guardian should turn out the lights
and leave. If the aggression has been directed toward another cat in the home it is very
important to wait until the cats are calm before reintroducing them. The biggest mistake that
guardians make in trying to resolve this problem is to try and bring the cats together too soon.
Aggression in cats can also be triggered by fear, pain, or territorial issues.

The Stressed Kitty:
We often look at our cats with envy. After all, who else gets away sleeping 18 hours a day, with
interruptions only for grooming, eating, playing and stretching, not to mention a little lovin’ from
their favorite human?
Despite their idyllic lifestyle, kitties can become stressed -- often by the simplest of things.
Some cats are naturally very curious and look at change as chance to explore new things.
Maybe you have moved the furniture around the living room or put in new carpeting. Perhaps
you’ve moved the litter box from one end of the room to another. While some cats will find this
19

exciting and fun, others find that you have totally disrupted their routine, and now you have a
stressed cat on your hands. It’s hard to predict what may trigger stress in your cat, but when it
happens she has a variety of ways to let you know. Some may change their litter box habits;
others develop illnesses such as upper respiratory or bladder infections. Still others may exhibit
some of the aggressive behaviors listed above.
There are ways to reduce stress. Try to keep kitty’s routine as normal as possible. Your work
hours may have changed, but see if you can find a way to feed her at about the same time each
day. Consider investing in an automatic feeder for this purpose.
If you are moving or redecorating, place kitty in one room with all of her favorite toys, food,
water, and litter box during the upheaval. Be sure to spend lots of time playing with and petting
her. If you are moving, leave some articles of your clothing with kitty -- something that smells
familiar. Keep kitty confined in the new home as well, giving her time to adjust to the new
smells and then slowly introduce her to the entire home. Use of a Feliway diffuser, or a spray
mist of diluted lavender oil can also be calming to a cat.
Calm your stressed kitty by speaking softly in a slightly higher pitched voice. Stroke her gently
on the forehead with one finger (mimicking the mother cat grooming her kitten). Say her name
often and try to use as few words as possible with a “hiss” sound. Give her some treats to
remind her that you are provider of good things!
When possible, make changes slowly to avoid stressing your kitty in the first place, especially if
you have a shy or sensitive cat. Don’t move all the furniture at once, maybe just a piece or two
every couple of days. If you must move the litter box, move it slowly. You may find that your
cat really does like it best where it is now and won’t use it in a different location, especially if the
location change is dramatic and done too fast.

The Alpha Female Cat
Among spayed and neutered cats, there are some female felines that are dominant by nature -these are the alpha females. In a multiple cat household, there is often a female at the top of
the cat hierarchy (there is not always an alpha female although it is possible for a female to
assume the role of alpha in a single cat household). This cat has a lot of responsibility – it is her
job to keep all of the other cats in line. She may not find much time play because of all this
responsibility. She cannot change this; it’s just her personality.
An alpha female must keep her place at the top of the hierarchy at all times. Sometimes it is
necessary for her to howl, yell, hiss, and/or whack the other resident cats on the head for no
apparent reason other than to remind them who is boss – who is head of the cat family. It is
very important that she get the first plate of food at eating time, as top cat she is entitled to eat
first. Alpha female cats are happiest as the only cat in a household, or where other resident cats
have mellow personalities. The majority are best suited to live with mellow males. Alpha
females are also more likely to get over stimulated when petted.
Most experienced cat owners know to let the alpha female cat just be herself. After all, she’s in
charge of everything and that is a big responsibility.

Headbutts and Cheek Rubs
Don't we all just love when our feline pal awakens us in the middle of the night? Well, if your
kitty uses a headbutt (officially known as "bunting") to wake you up, or headbutts you after you
have opened your eyes...purrrrrrhaps she wants you to know that she loves you.
Well that and it might be nice if you got up and gave her some food.
Headbutting or bunting (not cheek or full body rubs) is one way kitty shows her
affection toward us. Bunting is one form of greeting. Another is the long, slow
blinks we get when our cat looks at us. Try blinking slowly at your cat and see if she
blinks back. I bet she will!

Your Cat: Indoors Or Out
If you want your cat to live a long and healthy life, keep her inside.
If you allow your cat to wander around on her own, without your supervision, she is susceptible to any
of the following tragedies:
• • becoming
• •
hit by a car
• • ingesting
• •
a deadly poison like antifreeze or a pesticide
• • becoming
• •
trapped by an unhappy neighbor
• • being
• •
attacked by a roaming dog, cat or wild animal
• • contracting
• •
a disease from another animal
• • becoming
• •
lost and unable to find her way home
• • being
• •
stolen
• • encountering
• •
an adult or child with cruel intentions
Following are some of the reasons people have provided for allowing their cat to be outdoors
without their supervision, along with our comments and suggestions.

“I have a six-foot fence.”

Unless you have special fencing that’s designed to prevent a cat from climbing out, your cat will be
able to scale your fence and escape the confines of your yard. Even if you do have special fencing,
you need to make sure that it can keep other cats or animals from getting into your yard to get to
your cat.

“My last cat went outdoors and he loved it.”

Your cat may enjoy being outdoors, but by allowing him to go outside, unsupervised, you’re putting
him at risk and shortening his life span. Most cats that are allowed to roam outdoors usually don’t live
for more than a few years. Cats who live strictly indoors can live up to 18 - 20 years of age.

“My cat’s litter box smells.”

Scoop your cat’s litter box on a daily basis. How often you change the litter depends on the number
of cats in your home, the number of litter boxes, and the type of litter you use. Twice a week is a
general guideline for clay litter, but depending on the circumstances, you may need to change it
every other day or once a week. Wash the litter box with soap and water every time you change
the litter. Don’t use strong smelling chemicals or cleaning products when washing the litter box, as it
may cause your cat to avoid it.

“My cat likes to sun herself.”

Your cat can sun herself by any window indoors. If you’re really set on letting your cat sun herself
outdoors, put her on a harness and leash and stay with her while she’s taking in the rays.

“I can’t keep him in.”

Keep your windows closed or put in screens. Remember to always keep your doors closed and
teach your children the importance of keeping the doors closed, too. It may take a few days or a
few weeks, but if there are enough interesting things for your cat to play with indoors, he’ll come to
enjoy being indoors. Be sure to provide him with a scratching post and safe toys to bat or carry
around (see our handout: “Cat Toys and How To Use Them”).

“We’ve always let her out.”

You can change your cat’s behavior. It will take time and patience, but it might save her life. When
you implement your “closed door” policy, give her a lot of extra attention and entertainment. At first
she may cry, but don’t give in. Soon she’ll be happy to stay indoors with you.

“My cat knows to avoid cars.”

Even if this were true, all it would take is another car, a dog or a shiny object to lure your cat into the
street and into the path of traffic. Also keep in mind that some people may not swerve to miss a cat
in the road.

“My cat needs exercise and likes to play with other cats.”

Stray cats are likely to spread viruses like feline leukemia and other fatal diseases. If your cat needs a
friend, adopt another cat that’s healthy and disease-free.

“My cat yowls and acts likes he really needs to go outside.”

Your cat may be feeling the physiological need to mate. If this is the case, make sure your cat is
neutered (males) or spayed (females). Sterilized cats don’t have the natural need to breed, and
therefore, won’t be anxious to go out to find a mate.

How To Prevent Litter Box Problems
Under normal conditions, your cat will like to use her litter box. Changes
in your cat’s litter box behavior can almost always be traced to a medical
condition, stress, or something she dislikes about her litter box
environment. Fortunately, a little know-how and preventive maintenance
can greatly reduce the chance of litter box problems.
But First…
Ø Never punish or yell at your cat for not using her litter box; that only makes things
worse.
Ø Any acute or prolonged signs of litter box difficulties, such as urinating more
frequently, avoiding the litter box, or straining, could indicate an urgent medical
condition; call your vet right away.
The Perfect Litter Box Environment
Ø Location. Put the litter box in a pleasant location: easy to access, away from noisy or
high-traffic areas, out of the dog’s and baby’s reach. Some cats, especially older or
handicapped cats, prefer a litter box on each floor of the house. Beware of putting the
litter box directly on soft carpet; for some cats, the adjacent carpet feels like litter.
Use a minimum of one litter box per cat.
Ø Litter. Every cat has a favorite litter – work with your cat to find out her preference.
When in doubt, start with an unscented clumping litter. Although the jury’s still out on
this, if you have a kitten, you may want to avoid clumping litters that contain sodium
bentonite. Keep kitty’s box filled with about two inches of litter, unless directed
otherwise by the package. When changing litters, do it gradually over several days, or
fill a second box with the new litter.
Ø Type of box. Some cats don’t care for covered litter boxes. If you use a covered box,
remember to scoop and clean often, as odors can be trapped inside. Some cat owners
like automatic-cleaning litter boxes, others don’t. As with litter, your cat will help
guide you in your selection.
Ø Clean! Scoop clumping litter at least once a day, other litters as directed. Wash the
litter box and replace the litter weekly. Use a mild soap and rinse well. An occasional
1-part-in-10 bleach solution is fine if you rinse thoroughly. Stay away from ammonia
and citrus-scented or strong-smelling cleaners.
Ø Routine. Once you and kitty find a system that you’re both comfortable with, “stay
the course.”
Minimize Stress
Play with your cat each day. Make sure she has some convenient scratching posts that she
uses. Let her sleep undisturbed in a comfy place. Give her some nice views, fun cardboard
boxes to explore, a cat tree (or reasonable facsimile) to climb, and a small family of partially
hidden catnip mice to discover – accommodate her natural curiosity safely. Strive for a
harmonious household. Tell your cat what a great kitty she is, and give her affection each
day – but don’t invade her space when she prefers to be left alone.

Cats derive comfort from a predictable routine; if major changes such as a move or a new
baby are inevitable, gently and gradually acclimate kitty, and maintain her routine as much
as possible.
Monitor Kitty’s Litter Box Habits

Get to know your cat’s eating, drinking, and bathroom habits, and be alert to any changes. When you
scoop, do a onceover on the litter box contents. Occasionally watch kitty in the act, as long as you
don’t bother her. The urine amount emptied should be more than tiny; stools should be brown, not
immediately hard, and not runny. Your cat should seem comfortable when using her litter box and
digging in the litter. There is some room for natural variation in these behaviors – when in doubt, call
your vet.

Special Cases
Ø Kittens should be introduced to the litter box early. If your kitten goes outside the
box, wipe up the waste with a paper towel, put the towel in the box, and help kitty
cover up – she’ll catch on.
Ø Declawed cats might be more reluctant to dig in the litter, and may require a lighter
litter.
Ø Older, handicapped, and injured cats will appreciate more and shallower litter
boxes.
To view the complete collection of Shelter Sheets, visit www.cats.about.com/library/nosearch/blss.htm
© 2001 by Franny Syufy, licensed to About.com, Inc. Used by permission of About.com, Inc.,
http://www.About.com.
All rights reserved.

MEDICAL CARE FOR YOUR NEWLY ADOPTED CAT
Regular professional veterinary care is essential to the health of your cat. Preventive
veterinary care can add years and quality to the life of your cat. Consider yourself, your
cat, and your veterinarian and staff a team whose main goal is to keep your cat happy,
healthy, and in a loving relationship with you for as long as possible.
Selecting a veterinarian is a personal decision. The best way to find a good veterinarian
is to ask people who have the same approach to pet care as you. Start with a
recommendation from a friend, neighbor, co-worker, family member, dog trainer,
groomer, boarding kennel employee, or pet sitter.
Once you've narrowed your search, schedule a visit to meet the staff, tour the facility,
and learn about the animal center’s philosophy and policies. This is a reasonable
request that any veterinarian should be glad to oblige. Write down your questions ahead
of time.
Here are of some of the things to consider when you make your initial visit.
• Is the facility clean, comfortable, and well-organized?
• Are appointments required?
• How many veterinarians are in the practice?
• Are there technicians or other professional staff members?
• Are dog and cat cages in separate areas?
• Is the staff caring, calm, competent, and courteous, and do they communicate
effectively?
• Do the veterinarians have special interests such as geriatrics or behavior?
• Do fees fit your budget, and are discounts for senior citizens or multi-pet
households available?
• Are x-rays, ultrasound, bloodwork, EKG, endoscopy, and other diagnostics done
in-house or referred to a specialist?
• Which emergency services are available?
• Is location and parking convenient?
Local Emergency Medical Care
Animal 911
(847) 673-9110
3735 W Dempster Skokie, IL 60076
Animal Emergency & Referral Center
(847) 564-5775
1810 Skokie Blvd Northbrook, IL 60062

Pre-Vet Examination History and Checklist
May be used for routine (well visits) or non-routine/urgent visits to your cat’s veterinarian. This
is not an all-inclusive list but is helpful in describing your kitty’s general health or the beginning
of problems or concerns to the vet.

MONTHLY CHECKLIST FOR YOUR SENIOR FELINE
Review list with your vet and ask when he/she should like to be contacted regarding
noticed changes.
Always contact your vet immediately if there are sudden changes.

Plants, Foods and Substances Dangerous To Your Pet
Pets are naturally inquisitive and will investigate things that are sometimes harmful to
them. It is the responsibility of pet owners to create a safe environment for their furry
counterparts. Below are three lists from the ASPCA (www.aspca.org) of plants,
foods, and other common substances that are potentially toxic to pets, most specifically to cats
and dogs.
Many of the plants in the following list are very common in households. Great care should be
taken to keep these plants out of reach of your pets.
Ten Most Common Poisonous Plants
Marijuana: Ingestion of Cannabis sativa by companion animals can result in depression of the
central nervous system and incoordination, as well as vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, increased
heart rate, and even seizures and coma.
Sago Palm: All parts of Cycas Revoluta are poisonous, but the seeds or “nuts” contain the
largest amount of toxin. The ingestion of just one or two seeds can result in very serious effects,
which include vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures and liver failure.
Lilies: Members of the Lilium spp. are considered to be highly toxic to cats. While the
poisonous component has not yet been identified, it is clear that with even ingestions of very
small amounts of the plant, severe kidney damage could result.
Tulip/Narcissus bulbs: The bulb portions of Tulipa/Narcissus spp. contain toxins that can
cause intense gastrointestinal irritation, drooling, loss of appetite, depression of the central
nervous system, convulsions and cardiac abnormalities.
Azalea/Rhododendron: Members of the Rhododenron spp. contain substances known as
grayantoxins, which can produce vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, weakness and depression of the
central nervous system in animals. Severe azalea poisoning could ultimately lead to coma and
death from cardiovascular collapse.
Oleander: All parts of Nerium oleander are considered to be toxic, as they contain cardiac
glycosides that have the potential to cause serious effects—including gastrointestinal tract
irritation, abnormal heart function, hypothermia and even death.
Castor Bean: The poisonous principle in Ricinus communis is ricin, a highly toxic protein that
can produce severe abdominal pain, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst, weakness
and loss of appetite. Severe cases of poisoning can result in dehydration, muscle twitching,
tremors, seizures, coma and death.
Cyclamen: Cylamen species contain cyclamine, but the highest concentration of this toxic
component is typically located in the root portion of the plant. If consumed, Cylamen can
produce significant gastrointestinal irritation, including intense vomiting. Fatalities have also
been reported in some cases.
Kalanchoe: This plant contains components that can produce gastrointestinal irritation, as well
as those that are toxic to the heart, and can seriously affect cardiac rhythm and rate.
Yew: Taxus spp. contains a toxic component known as taxine, which causes central nervous
system effects such as trembling, in coordination, and difficulty breathing. It can also cause
significant gastrointestinal irritation and cardiac failure, which can result in death. Poisonous
Plants- Dogs and Cats
29

Toxic Plants Listed Alphabetically
This list contains plants that have been reported as having systemic effects on animals and/or
intense effects on the gastrointestinal tract. Please note this list is not meant to be all-inclusive,
but rather a compilation of the most frequently encountered plants.
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Aloe
Amaryllis
Andromeda Japonica
Asian Lily (Liliaceae)
Asparagus Fern
Australian Nut
Autumn Crocus
Avocado
Azalea
Bird of Paradise
American Bittersweet
European Bittersweet
Branching Ivy
Buckeye
Buddist Pine
Caladium
Calla Lily
Castor Bean
Ceriman (aka Cutleaf
Philodendron)
Charming Diffenbachia
Chinaberry Tree
Chinese Evergreen
Christmas Rose
Clematis
Cordatum
Corn Plant (aka Cornstalk
Plant)
Cutleaf Philodendron (aka
Ceriman)
Cycads
Cyclamen
Daffodil
Day Lily
Devil's Ivy
Dumb Cane
Deadly Nightshade (See
Nightshade)

Easter Lily
Elephant Ears
Emerald Feather (aka
Emerald Fern)
Emerald Fern (aka
Emerald Feather)

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English Ivy
Fiddle-Leaf
Philodendron
Flamingo Plant
Florida Beauty
Foxglove
Fruit Salad Plant
Glacier Ivy
Gladiolas
Glory Lily
Gold Dieffenbachia
Gold Dust Dracaena
Golden Pothos
Green Gold Nephthysis
Hahn's self branching
English Ivy
Heartleaf Philodendron
Heavenly Bamboo
Holly
Horsehead Philodendron
Hurricane Plant
Hyacinth
Hydrangea
Iris
Japanese Show Lily
Japanese Yew (aka Yew)
Jerusalem Cherry
Kalanchoe
Lace Fern
Lacy Tree
Lily of the Valley
Macadamia Nut
Madagascar Dragon Tree
Marble Queen
Marijuana
Mauna Loa Peace Lily
(aka Peace Lily)
Mexican Breadfruit
Mistletoe "American"
Morning Glory
Mother-in-Law
Narcissus
Needlepoint Ivy

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Nephthytis
Nightshade
Oleander
Onion
Orange Day Lily
Panda
Peace Lily (aka Mauna
Loa Peace Lily)
Philodendron Pertusum
Plumosa Fern
Precatory Bean
Queensland Nut
Red Emerald
Red Lily
Red-Margined Dracaena (aka
Straight-Margined Dracaena)
Red Princess
Rhododendron
Ribbon Plant (Dracaena sanderiana)
Rubrum Lily
Saddle Leaf Philodendron
Sago Palm
Satin Pothos
Schefflera Spotted Dumb Cane
Stargazer Lily
Striped Dracaena
Sweetheart Ivy
Swiss Cheese Plant
Taro Vine
Tiger Lily
Tomato Plant
Tree Philodendron
Tropic Snow Dumbcane
Tulip
Variable Dieffenbachia
Variegated Philodendron
Warneckei Dracaena
Wood Lily
Yesterday, Today,
Tomorrow
Yew (aka Japanese Yew)
Yucca

Dangerous Foods For Your Pet
We often think of our pets not as an animal, but as a person. After all, they have personalities just like we
do, likes and dislikes etc. And just as their human counter-parts, pets will often consume things that are
not so good for them. Some people foods are not safe for your pet to eat. While we all probably know
someone who has routinely fed their pet one or more of these unhealthy and possibly toxic foods with no
apparent adverse affects, most vets agree that you should avoid feeding the following foods to your pet.
Below are foods that you should avoid feeding your dog or cat.
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Alcoholic beverages
Avocado
Chocolate (all forms of chocolate)
Coffee (all forms of coffee)
Fatty foods
Macadamia nuts
Moldy or spoiled foods

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Onions, onion powder
Raisins and grapes
Salt
Yeast or any raw bread dough
Garlic
Products sweetened with xylitol (used to
sweeten some sugar-free candies and gum.)

Other Dangerous Substances To Pets
A good rule of thumb for making your house safe for your pet is to poison-proof it
just as you would for a small child. Dogs, cats, ferrets, rabbits, birds, and most other
animals are curious by nature. They like to explore new areas and substances. For
your pet's health, as well as the health of any children in the household, please be
certain all chemicals are kept out of reach. Common household cleaning products
are toxic to animals as well as humans. Animals, just like children, do not recognize
the danger these products pose to their health. The following is a list of common
products found in most homes that are hazardous to pets.

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Cleaning agents
Citronella candles
Compost piles
Fertilizers
Flea products
Outdoor plants and plant bulbs
Swimming pool treatment supplies
Pesticides
Fly baits containing methomyl and slug
and snail baits containing metaldehyde
Rat and mouse bait

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Herbicides
Prescription medication
Over the counter medication
Antifreeze
Liquid potpourris
Ice melting products
Batteries
Christmas decorations, tinsel, ribbons
(choking or intestinal blockage hazard)
Christmas tree water (may contain
fertilizers)

If you suspect your pet has ingested something that may be hazardous, or if your pet suddenly
shows any change in behavior, appetite, or overall appearance, you should contact your
veterinarian immediately. You can also contact The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at 1888-426-4435. For more information on The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center visit
www.apcc.aspca.org.

How to Trim Your Cat’s Claws
Regularly trimming your cat’s claws is an easy and cat-friendly way to “sharply” reduce the sting
from scratching activities. With a little preparation and diligence, claw-trimming can be a simple and
pleasant routine.

Preparation
Get your cat used to your handling and gently squeezing her paws. Don’t proceed faster than she’ll
let you; the idea is for her to become comfortable with this. Note: cats are often more agreeable to
new things if they get a treat.
In the interim, your vet or a trusted groomer can trim your cat’s claws quickly and cheaply, and will
usually be glad to show you how.

Step-by-Step Instructions
Start with a relaxed cat, sharp clippers, and a good light source, for best results. Some folks prefer
specially-made cat clippers (available in pet supply stores), others use regular human nail clippers.
Either device works well.
1.

Ease into a position that’s comfortable for you and your cat. For some, this means kneeling
behind kitty, for others this means supporting her in your lap. Calmly talk to her and pet her.
You may want to have a treat reward in plain view.

If kneeling down behind your cat, secure her gently between your knees, and take a front paw in
your left hand. If kitty’s in your lap, have her facing to your right, and support her securely in
your left arm with her front paw in your left hand. It may be easier at first to wrap her in a towel
with only the paw extended. If you’re left-handed, use the opposite hand (and face kitty to your
left if she’s in your lap).

With your thumb on top of her paw, and two or more fingers underneath, press gently but firmly
on the pad area to extend a claw. It isn't necessary to squeeze hard.

Examine the claw closely under light to find the pink area in the
center called the “quick.” This is a blood vessel, and will bleed if
nicked.

Holding the clippers in your other hand, make sure there’ s no
chance that the clippers will catch any of the pad. Then snip off the
tip of the claw, being careful not to cut into the quick (see picture).

Give kitty a treat and a few kind words for being such a good cat.
The more relaxed you and she both are, the easier the process will
be.

Repeat steps 3 through 6 until you have finished the first paw.

If your cat is comfortable and compliant, continue until the nails on both front feet have been
clipped. If things are going smoothly, optionally clip the back paws. Don’t forget the “dewclaw”
on the paw’s side.

Tips
1.

Keep some styptic powder or styptic pads handy in case you accidentally cut into the quick. If
this should occur, apply the powder to the nail to stop the bleeding, and call it a day.

It may be easier if you have a second person holding the cat. Above all, it's important that you
and your cat both be relaxed.

If at any time your cat becomes anxious, stop immediately. You can do one claw every day, if
necessary.

To view the complete collection of Shelter Sheets, visit
www.cats.about.com/library/nosearch/blss.htm.
© 2001 by Franny Syufy, licensed to About.com, Inc. Used by permission of About.com, Inc.,
http://www.About.com.
All rights reserved.
Illustration: Max’s House (www.maxshouse.com).

Need Help Trimming Cat Claws?
CARE can help! Give us a call and ask for an appointment to
bring your cat in for a trim, or to learn to trim.
Call 847-705-2653 and leave a message. This voice mail is
available to you 24-7.
Or, call the Evanston Animal Shelter during adoption hours.
The number is 874-866-5080. Adoption hours are MondayThursday 6-8PM or Saturday-Sunday noon-3:30PM.

Think Twice Before You Declaw
The Itch to Scratch
Cats do write. They don’t communicate
with a pen and paper or by using a computer keyboard. Instead, their prose is
cat scratch—literally. They scratch to
express their excitement and pleasure.
They scratch to leave messages, both
visual and aromatic. (A cat’s paws have
scent glands that leave smell-o-grams;
we can’t read them, but other cats can.)
Cats also scratch, not to sharpen their
nails but to remove the worn-out
sheaths from their claws. You see the
results as little crescent-moon shaped
bits around scratching areas. Scratching
is good exercise, too.
Scratching is normal behavior for cats.

Asking a cat never to scratch
is asking a cat not to act like
a cat.
Most of us don’t mind that
cats scratch; what bothers us
is where they scratch. But
nearly all cats can be taught
where to scratch—and where
not to. Kittens are particularly easy to train, but it’s not
that difficult to teach the
adults, either. The secret is to
provide attractive scratching
alternatives to the sofa or
stereo speakers and then
teach the cat to use those
alternatives.

All cats scratch; it’s part of being a cat.

Reality Check
Just so you know, a typical declaw
(called an onychectomy) is an irreversible surgical procedure.

formed on a cat who goes outdoors, since declawed cats have
been disarmed.

A cat’s toe has three bones; the
claw grows from the end of the last
bone. In declawing, the veterinarian amputates the end section of
the last bone, which contains the
growth plate, along with the nail.
This can be very painful, so pain
management is critical before, during and after the procedure.

In many countries declaw surgery
is illegal. The American Association of Feline Practitioners advises veterinarians never to include declawing along with
spay/neuter as a promotional incentive or to present declawing as
a routine surgical procedure.
Even if many cats ultimately do
recover without any adverse effects, why take the chance? Why
put your cat through the ordeal
and yourself through the expense
when there are other options?

Some human amputees feel phantom pain long after a limb is gone,
and declawed cats also may.
Declawing should never be perScratching is good exercise, and it’s fun.

Think Twice Before You Declaw

Page 2

How Cats Scratch
Just as we have our own preferences for
either pen and paper or a computer keyboard to write our prose, cats, too, have
preferences. While almost all cats relish
a vertical scratch, many also enjoy a
good horizontal scratch. However, all
cats seem to agree about certain requirements for their scratching surfaces.

equal to or exceed the cat’s height when
she is standing on her back legs.
A wobbly vertical scratcher that moves
and feels as if it might tip over when a
cat sinks her claws in, or a horizontal
scratcher that easily slides along the
floor, is not stable enough for serious
scratching.

Because cats like to stretch and scratch,
favorite vertical scratchers should be

Cats like materials they can really sink

their claws into. Sisal is particularly
popular. Natural wood and carpeting
(many cats prefer the back side of the
carpet) are also favorites. Again, it’s all
about individual preferences.
An assortment of surfaces and scratchers is ideal, even in a home with just
one cat. And several scratching choices
are absolutely necessary in a multi-cat
household.

Scratchers 101
Effective horizontal scratchers
are relatively inexpensive to
buy from a pet supply store.
They are often made of corrugated cardboard and sometimes
catnip is included to sprinkle
into slits cut in the scratcher.
Angled cardboard scratchers
are especially appealing to
many cats, giving them a combination vertical and horizontal
scratch in one.
Good vertical scratchers are tall
and sturdy, with a wide, heavy
bottom to prevent tipping. Industrious souls can build their

own cat trees with materials
that are easy to get at home
improvement stores.

Cats like materials they can really sink their claws
into.

While purchasing a luxurious multi-level cat tree or
condo playground is pricey,
it’s likely to be less expensive than a buying a new
sofa because the old one has
been shredded. The multiple
surfaces and perches will
attract feline scratchers of
all preferences. And when
the cats lounge on the cat
tree, there will be less cat
hair all over your house.

Location, Location
When you’re thinking about where to
put the scratching post, keep in mind
that, like all real estate, location is everything. Remember that cats scratch to
communicate, and leaving a message
hidden in the basement or behind the
washing machine is not their idea of
effective communication.
You’ll need to place the scratching post
in places cats want to scratch. These
include:

• Near where your family congregates.
• Near a favorite napping location,
since cats enjoy a good stretch and
scratch after awakening.
• Reasonably close to the front door,
since many cats like to scratch after
their people arrive home. (Never
think your cat runs to the sofa to
scratch after you walk through the
door because he’s angry that you’ve
been away. In fact, your cat is

scratching to express his excitement
to see you. Reprimanding a cat for
being happy to see you is confusing
and can damage your relationship
with your cat.)
• As a part of a feline aerobic center,
such as a sprawling cat tree, which
may also include places to climb,
play and snooze.
• Near a window or places where several cats gather to play and party.
35

Think Twice Before You Declaw

Page 3

Scratching School
Kittens are especially easy to instruct
about where to scratch, but most any
cat will learn. Realistically, it will take
more time to teach an adult who has
been scratching the sofa her entire life
than it will to teach a 12-week-old
kitty. However, mostly it depends on
the individual cat and how good an
instructor you happen to be. Just remember to be fair and consistent.

learn by watching, so all you have to
do is scratch your nails on the appropriate scratching post and act like
you’re having a really good time. If
your kitten follows your example, offer
a pay-off with a tasty morsel and enthusiastically tell your cat how smart
she is. Cats have huge egos; they love
it when you tell them they’re the greatest.

If you’re training an impressionable
kitten, begin the first day you bring
your baby home. It’s easier to start a
good habit than undo a bad one. Cats

Rubbing catnip on a vertical post and
depositing catnip within the corrugated
compartment of a horizontal scratcher
will entice many adults to scratch.

(Young kittens might not be turned on
by catnip. Sometimes it's an acquired
taste and a small percentage of cats
seem to never develop an interest in
catnip.)
Play with your cat around the post using an interactive toy (a fishing poletype toy with feathers or fabric at the
end). Even if the cat just accidentally
puts her paws on the post, that’s a great
start, since now your cat’s scent has
been deposited on it. Consistently
make the area near the scratching post
a playground.

Click and Train
One way to teach your cat where to
scratch is by using a clicker to tell him
when he is doing the right thing. Clickers are inexpensive and easy to find at
pet supply stores.
First teach your cat what the clicker
means. Click the clicker and drop a
treat on the floor. (For noise-sensitive
cats, clicking a retractable pen will do.)
Soon your cat will come running from
another room when you click because
he knows the click means food. Once
your cat understands that “click” means
“a treat is on the way,” you can use the
sound of the clicker to train him to do
just about anything.

Now entice your cat to paw at the post.
This might be as simple as you pointing
at the post and kitty following your
finger. Also, play with him around the
scratching post using an interactive toy.
The moment your cat touches the post
with any part of his body, click and
offer a treat.
Learning sessions should never be more
five to ten minutes, and even less time
with a kitten. While kittens may actually learn faster than adults, they’re at
an age when they have very short attention spans. It’s important to end a learning session with a treat for a successful
behavior.

Begin the next session where you left
off—with the kitty merely touching the
scratcher. Your next goal is to shape the
behavior to what you really want; don’t
reward the cat until he touches the
scratcher with his paw.
In each successive session, hold out for
a behavior that’s just a little bit closer to
what you want before you click and
treat. Soon your cat will be scratching
at the tree. In addition to the reward it
will feel good, so your cat will enjoy
the experience. Once your cat begins to
scratch regularly, offer rewards only
intermittently or else you’ll end up with
one very pudgy pussy.

Bad Kitty
What if your cat is scratching up a
favorite chair or sofa? Don’t take it
personally! Remember, scratching
these things is only inappropriate
to you; it’s normal to your cat.
You’ll need to block her access to
the inappropriate place, make sure
she has a fabulous scratching post
to use instead, and then show her
what you want her to do.

Discouraging your cat from
scratching is most effective when
you are not a part of the deterrent.
That’s because if the reprimand
comes from you, your cat quickly
figures out she can scratch anywhere when you’re not around.
Remember what cats like to
scratch and what they don’t. They
Cats will scratch as a part of play activity; kitty condo
units are great playgrounds in multi cat homes.

(Continued on page 4)

Think Twice Before You Declaw

Think Twice Before
You Declaw
Author—Steve Dale, Tribune
Media Services syndicated
newspaper columnist, host Pet
Central WGN Radio; syndicated
Steve Dale’s Pet World and The Pet
Minute with Steve Dale
(www.petworldradio.net)
Co-Author, Editor—Beth
Adelman, certified feline behavior
consultant, author and editor of more
than 100 pet books
Layout, Editor—Margaret H.
Bonham, award winning author of
18 books including, Bring Me
Home: Cats Make Great Pets
(www.shadowhelm.net)
Photos—Weems S. Hutto and Dusty
Rainbolt; Steve Dale, Angelical Cat
Company
Editorial Consultants—Lore I.
Haug, DVM, MS, DACVB, CPDT,
CABC Animal Behavior Service
Texas A&M University Veterinary
Teaching Hospital
Ilona Rodan, DVM, ABVP, co-chair
2005 AA FP F elin e B eh a vi or
Guidelines
Copyright ©2005 Steve Dale, Beth
Adelman. Photos copyright ©2005
Angelical Cat Company, Steve
Dale, Weems S. Hutto and Dusty
Rainbolt. All rights reserved. This
newsletter may be freely distributed
and printed in its entirety. All rights
to articles and photos belong to
their respective authors except
where noted. No portion of this
newsletter may be reprinted or
distributed in another medium
without contacting the copyright
holders.

Page 4

Bad Kitty
(Continued from page 3)

want to dig their claws into a
suitable material and they
don’t like to feel something
bumpy or smooth or sticky.
That’s why Sticky Paws
(available at pet supply stores
and on line) is a superbly
effective deterrent. These are
strips of double-sided sticky
tape (designed not to damage
furniture) that you can put on
fabric or wood. Another option is ordinary double-sided
tape.
If you need to cover an entire
sofa or chair, try a smooth
plastic tarp or shower curtain,

car floor mats (with the
nubby side up) or a plastic
rug runner (also nubby side
up).
When you discourage the cat
by simply blocking her access, there is no reason to
chase after and/or raise your
voice or use a squirt gun.
Sometimes these emotional
responses will actually encourage cats to scratch, since
they so love doing anything
to see their people get excited.

propriate items unattractive to
kitty and then provide something very attractive to
scratch as an alternative. So if
your cat is scratching the arm
of the sofa, cover it up and
place an enticing scratching
post right next to the sofa. It’s
a set-up that tells your cat
“Don’t scratch there, scratch
here instead.” When your cat
is consistently scratching at
the right place for several
weeks, you can safely uncover the sofa.

Do you need to leave the tarp
on your couch forever? Nope.
The idea is to make the inap-

Paws ’n Order
Keep your cat’s nails
trimmed by clipping them
with a nail cutter every 10 to
14 days. Your veterinarian or
a groomer can show you how
to do this while offering your
cat a special treat as you clip.
That way, your cat is so busy
eating that he won’t notice
you’re also clipping. Kittens
Maintain kitty’s nails, and he can easily learn to associate a
won’t need to scratch as often. special treat with the nail

clipper, so they actually look
forward to the experience.
(Well, at least they won’t fuss
about it.)
If you and your cat just can’t
see eye to eye about nail
trimming, Soft Paws are soft,
temporary nail covers that
can be fitted over a cat’s
claws.

Resources
Help Is Here!
If you still need help, it’s available. Ask your veterinarian to
help you find a veterinary behaviorist. Or, to find a certified
feline behavior consultant
where you live, check out
www.iaabc.org.

—Learn about clicker training at
www.clickertraining.com or
check out Clicker Training for
Cats by Karen Pryor, (800) 47CLICK
—Read Think Like a Cat by Pam
Johnson Bennett (Penguin Publishing), Every Cat’s Survival
Guide to Living with a Neurotic
Owner by Beth Adelman (Main
Street Books), Kittens for Dummies by Dusty Rainbolt (Wiley
Publishing), or Bring Me Home:

Cats Make Great Pets by Margaret H. Bonham (Howell Book
House)

• TopCat Products:

• Angelical Cat Company cat

• Soft Paws:

trees:
www.angelicalcat.com,
(954) 747-3629

• Smart Cat Ultimate

Scratching Post:
www.esmartcat.com/
shopping/ultimate.php

www.topcatproducts.com,
(615) 874-1221
www.softpaws.com,
(800) 989-2542

• Sticky Paws:

www.stickypaws.com,
(817) 926-3023

• Steve Dale’s website:

www.petworldradio.net

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