Help Guide Creality And Others 12 2018

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Help Guide with assembly, tuning,
and troubleshooting tutorials.
For Creality3d Aluminum framed printers, and
similar copy’s

Author: Luke Hatfield
Editor: Maikel Blewanus
Special thank’s to all the
contributors of photo’s of their
problem components, etc.
This is provided free of charge.
Many people have asked to be
able to donate to appreciate my
work on the guide and in the
community help groups. To that
end I can accept funds through
Paypal @
Lukehatfield@hotmail.com
If you just want to pay it
forward, share the information
on where to find the guide with
other users that may be in
need of the help contained
within. Or share your personal
experiecnces with others
experiencing similar issues.
You can follow the Author as
OneBadMarine at Thingiverse
and You Tube, and Luke
Hatfield in the Facebook
groups and other forums.
Happy Printings

LUKE HATFIELD V2.0 2018

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INDEX
1.

PRECISION ASSEMBLY GUIDE AND PATH TO YOUR FIRST PRINT.......................... 5
1.1. New Assembly guide ................................................................................................. 5
1.2. Alternate steps for x gantry assembly ....................................................................... 6
1.3. Bed level .................................................................................................................... 8
1.4. PTFE Bowden fix ..................................................................................................... 10
1.5. Filament loading ...................................................................................................... 11
1.6. Finding .stl models ................................................................................................... 11
1.7. Slicing software ........................................................................................................ 12
1.8. E steps and flow rate tuning .................................................................................... 15
1.9. Bed center establish ................................................................................................ 17
1.10. List of mods that are in other parts of document that are able to be performed at
assembly .................................................................................................................. 17
1.11. Rocking base fix ...................................................................................................... 18
1.12. Extruder trouble shooting......................................................................................... 18

2.

3.

LUKE’S CHECK LIST TO A STABLE/FINE-TUNED MACHINE.................................... 19
2.1.1.

Z binding shim ................................................................................................. 19

2.1.2.

X gantry rework ................................................................................................ 23

2.1.3.

Bed stabilization mod....................................................................................... 26

2.1.4.

Set bed height and adjustment. ....................................................................... 27

2.1.5.

Hot end fix ........................................................................................................ 28

2.1.6.

E step calculation ............................................................................................. 31

2.1.7.

Y axis trolley eccentric wheel adjustment ........................................................ 33

HOT END ......................................................................................................................... 35
3.1. Nozzle clogs or filament drag issues ....................................................................... 35
3.2. Nozzle leaking ......................................................................................................... 39

4.

3.2.1.

How can my brand-new printer have a clog or jam? ....................................... 39

3.2.2.

I ran my nozzle into bed, could I have damaged the nozzle? ......................... 39

EXTRUDER ...................................................................................................................... 40
4.1. Extruder trouble shooting......................................................................................... 40
4.2. Extruder issues ........................................................................................................ 41

5.

4.2.1.

Filament is being fed backwards ..................................................................... 41

4.2.2.

What are the best replacement couplers for the Bowden tube? ..................... 41

4.2.3.

How do I calculate e steps for my extruder? Also flow rate? ........................... 42

HEATED BED .................................................................................................................. 44
5.1. Leveling the be ........................................................................................................ 44
5.2. Heated bed issues ................................................................................................... 46
5.3. Warped bed ............................................................................................................. 46

6.

X AXIS .............................................................................................................................. 47
6.1. X axis tuning ............................................................................................................ 47
6.2. X axis issues ............................................................................................................ 50

7.

Y AXIS .............................................................................................................................. 51

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7.1. Y axis tuning ............................................................................................................ 51
7.2. Y axis belt tension .................................................................................................... 51
7.3. Y axis eccentric nut adjustment ............................................................................... 52
8.

Z AXIS .............................................................................................................................. 54
8.1. Z axis binding issues ............................................................................................... 54

9.

X, Y AND Z AXIS ............................................................................................................. 55
9.1. Dust on roller wheels ............................................................................................... 55
9.2. X, Y and Z axis issues ............................................................................................. 56
9.2.1.

Why is axis X,Y,Z not homing with a home all? .............................................. 56

9.2.2.

I have this weird pattern in the X or Y axis, what is causing it?....................... 56

10. SUGGESTED UPGRADES PURCHASED OR PRINTED .............................................. 57
10.1. Stepper dampeners ................................................................................................. 57
10.2. Case fan .................................................................................................................. 64
10.3. Printable upgrades ................................................................................................... 64
11. SOFTWARE ..................................................................................................................... 64
11.1. Marlin firmware ........................................................................................................ 64
11.1.1.

Why should I update Firmware? ...................................................................... 64

11.1.2.

My printer won't store the settings (e-steps) in the eeprom. ........................... 65

What could be the problem? ............................................................................................ 65
11.2. G code ..................................................................................................................... 65
11.2.1.

Start and End G code scripts ........................................................................... 65

11.2.2.

Estep 100mm advance gcode ......................................................................... 66

11.3. Cura ......................................................................................................................... 67
11.3.1.

Cura settings .................................................................................................... 67

11.3.2.

Visually unpleasing diagonal linesU ................................................................ 67

11.3.3.

Cura Combing settings related issue ............................................................... 68

11.3.4.

Cura slicer bed origin settings Issue ................................................................ 68

11.3.5.

Cura concentric fill issue .................................................................................. 71

12. PRINT QUALITY TROUBLE SHOOTING ....................................................................... 72
12.1. Under/over extrusion photo examples ..................................................................... 72
12.2. First layer / Bed adhesion ........................................................................................ 72
13. YOU TUBE VIDEO’S ....................................................................................................... 73

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1.

Precision assembly guide and path to your
first print

1.1.

New Assembly guide

Alternate process for step by step assembly based from the Official Ender 3
assembly instructions. You will be using both the original instructions as provided in the SD
card and these instructions. These changes will help avoid assembly issues that cause
problems with bed leveling and Z height repeatability.
These following steps are to go along with the factory assembly paper guide, or
the pdf on the supplied SD card.

1.

(Step One) Tighten the 4 M5x45mm bolts just to the point you can rotate the
extrusions around with a medium force, twisting by hand. This will allow an alignment
to be done later in the assembly process. This is an important detail to the future
assembly and alignment of the x gantry assembly.
2. (Step Two) Tip: it is easier to install the ribbon cable to the led to port #3, before
bolting it on the frame. The PSU, the big metal unit, should be close to the lower rail.
If not flip right extrusion to correct.
3. (Step Three) We are going to install this as our last step. Reminder will follow the
Alternate steps for X gantry assembly.
4. (Step Four) Do not install the stepper or the z drive rod at this time, will be covered in
Alternate steps for X gantry
5. (Step Five) Take the two M4x16mm screws ½ to 3/4 turn past bringing snug, final
tightening will occur in the Alternate steps for X gantry (DO NOT use the ball sockets
of the Allen key for this tightening)
6. (Step Six) Skip this step will be installed at Alternate steps for X gantry assembly
7. (Step Seven) Skip this step will be installed at Alternate steps for X gantry assembly
8. (Step Eight) Skip this step will be covered in Alternate steps for X gantry assembly
9. (Step Nine) Due to the bracket this is sitting on being under bent, these screws need
backed off 1 turn from tight. Later they can be replaced with longer screws and nyloc
nuts, or double nutted to fix them from loosening more.
10. (Step Ten) Skip this step will be covered in Alternate steps for X gantry assembly
11. (Step Eleven) Assemble now, install on top extrusion after tightening the top extrusion
when Alternate steps for x gantry assembly is finished
(Step Twelve) These will be performed once all mechanical assembly is done. Note that
the wire for the L.E.D. screen goes in socket 3 which when it is in final position will be
closest to the center of the printer, or left side as you face the display. The X
<<< end stop is hiding inside the box with the QR code on its
face. The Bowden tube at the extruder fitting push in, holding in,
pull back on the plastic lock collar then pull tube to set. Apply a
zip tie to the coupler to prevent it coming unlocked. >>>>>

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1.2.

Alternate steps for x gantry assembly

You will see references to eccentric
nuts. This is one with the wheel and bolt thru it
removed. They will always be between a
wheel and a bracket or frame, not on the end
of a bolt, which would be the nut holding the
whole assembly together. By rotating the
eccentric nut, you are moving the attached
wheel either closer or further from the
extrusion it rides on. One item to note, if you
rotate the nut clockwise as facing the retention
nut, it will try to loosen the retention nut. And there is no consistency from the factory on
which way they started them. So anti clockwise is better, monitor the retention nut and the
assembly tightness as you make these adjustments. The wheels should never be so tight that
if a trolley or carriage are held in place, that a wheel could not be spun, with a bit of force with
2 fingers.

1. Take the x gantry from step number 5 and place it on the left side vertical extrusion.
See Bed Stabilization Mod for an item most easily addressed before assembly
begins.

Continued next page

2. While supporting it from hitting the table adjust the eccentric nut shown in photo. Back
the nut off until the crossarm can be moved
easily front to back with the slop in the guide
wheels. Then slowly tighten it, in small steps
while moving fore and aft till the play in the
wheels stops. No further, as this will cause
problems later. Leave supported above the bed.
3. Put the x trolley on to the horizontal extrusion.
Adjust the eccentric wheel until the trolley is
loose when moved left to right. Then slowly
tighten in small steps, until the play goes away.
4. Take the right-side trolley from step 6 and put
it on the right-side vertical extrusion by itself.
Loosen eccentric wheel till there is slop in when
rotating it side to side. Slowly tighten in small
steps until the play just stops. Note: excess
tightening will prove to hurt proper function
later.
5. Now position the right-side trolley in position like you are going to connect the two
halves of the gantry together at the position you left the gantry supported at.
6. Then using the rotation of the vertical extrusions rotate both left and right extrusions
until the mating surfaces of the two parts of the gantry assembly are parallel and just
lightly touching with no forcing them together. Now mate the two together with the two
m4 x16 screws from step 6.

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7. We will now temporarily put the top rail in place, with the machined counter sink side
on top.
8. Tighten the top rail bolts snug.
9. Put Z stepper from step 4 in position and loosely tighten the two provided screws into
the extrusion as shown in diagram of step 4.
10. Prepare for this step by having the Z rod at hand. Bring the x gantry up near the top
rail. Insert the Z rod by screwing it through the brass nut until it is in the coupler of
the Z stepper. Lightly tighten the top grub/set screw of the aluminum coupler.
11. Now that Z rod is holding the weight, measure from the X gantry extrusion to the top
rail on the far left, and again on far right. If there is
more than 1 mm of difference in the
measurements, adjust to correct. You had left the
2 screws holding the cross-arm extrusion not fully
tight, so with a bit of pressure, you should be able
to lift up or push down to level arm. Remember
that you are putting force across the wheels of the
z carriage, so do not use too much force. (Note if it
will not stabilize in level position because arm
keeps dropping, take top rail off, undo the Z rod
and remove. Pull assembly off the uprights, then
tightening the two bolts nearest the extruder motor
again, so that it still can be manipulated for
adjustment. Repeat this step).
12. Once leveled, support the X gantry, loosen the grub screw on Z coupler, remove Z
rod and remove the top rail carefully lifting the X gantry off the vertical extrusions.
13. Final tighten the 2 screws nearest the extruder, very firmly now, but take care to not
strip the threads or round out the screw heads. (DO NOT use the ball sockets of the
Allen key for this tightening).
14. Place the X gantry back onto the vertical extrusions and support it with the work head
off the bed surface.
15. We are now going to check the fit of the Z lead screw into the Z stepper coupler.
Screwing it down to see if it easily enters coupler or if it will need shim between
stepper and the rail to be in a natural alignment. If it freely enters, tighten the 2
screws holding Z stepper to the rail, and then make sure that after the Z rod goes fully
in coupler to lift it up one to 2 mm so that the z screw end is not touching the stepper
shaft inside the coupler. As a temporary stop gap, you can insert the two screws for
stepper mounting one full turn and put folded up paper or other filler between the
bracket, to be able to print the fixes available. If it does not fit properly see the
shimming and alternate stepper motor bracket in the troubleshooting portion of this
.pdf.
16. Install the top rail extrusion and take to firmly tightened.
17. Remove that support used earlier.
18. Tighten all bed screws down till tight moving them in pairs, front 2 then rear 2. Then
back off 4 turns, again working in pairs.
19. Now move the nozzle manually to the front left corner of the bed, using the Z screw
by hand lower and touch off to a piece of paper.
20. Take the Z end stop switch from step 3 and put the t nuts into slot, sliding it up until
you hear the switch click. Tighten the 2 screws. Note , you will need to do a 4 point
paper leveling once printer is wired and can be homed.
21. Now run the belt from the x carriage around the x stepper gear, connecting it on the
left side as you face the printer.
22. Put the end roller bearing on the end of the x gantry cross extrusion.
23. Run belt around it and attach the belt back to the carriage.
24. Pull the pulley directly away from the extrusion as hard as you can with one hand and
tighten the left screw down.

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25. Slowly run the carriage left and right to see if the belt is tracking true, or offline hitting
the extrusion.
26. If true, tighten the right screw. If not, you will need to find a shim to adjust the attitude
of pulley so that the belt runs true. Shim usually would need to go between the
extrusion and bracket on the right side of the right screw.
27. This conflicts with or must be done before 18-20, but it is best to adjust the Y trolley
eccentric wheels, not covered in the original instructions. In case there was shipping
damage, and just to know that it is done properly. Turn machine over for access. In
this case loosen the 2 eccentric nuts, till it is loose, slowly tighten the eccentric nuts
until the play is out of the carriage. Turn the eccentric nut 1/16 turn past the
movement stop, as the leverage seen by this set is higher than all other axis. Note if
you check the bed travel the following day, and you feel a bump occasionally, you
have slightly over tightened the wheels. It deforms making a temporary flat spot. To
fix back off a little bit on eccentric. Once properly adjusted over a few hours it will
return back to its original shape.
28. Return to step 12 in original instructions

1.3.

Bed level

How to set bed height and adjustment.
We are going to adjust the bed spring tension. Set the z end stop height, and paper level the
bed. Or use a gcode assisted leveling. What we are doing is actually bed tramming, which
aligns the x gantry arm and the bed to each other.
1. Loosen and lower or remove the Z end
stop. Shown in the photo at bottom of
left vertical extrusion.
2. Working the knobs in pairs, front and
back, tighten the bed down until the
springs are fully compressed.
3. Back of the knobs 3 to 4 turns all 4
corners. Again, working in pairs. As
pictured
4. Disable the stepper motors
5. Manually move the hot end up above the bed in front left corner. Using the z lead
screw, and manually moving bed and x trolley.
6. Using z lead screw, slowly lower the the x gantry until a piece of paper moving back
and forth under nozzle folds as you push
the paper in.
7. Put Z end stop on rail,
8. Run it up until you hear the switch “click”
9. Tighten the Z end stop at this position.
10. If the little plastic nub is in the way, remove
it using the provided flush cut pliers.
11. Activate the Home all on the machine
controller
12. Alternate method Use the thingiverse file
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803 this will take the hot end above bed
coming down to zero at each corner lifting up and coming down, waiting until your

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13.
14.
15.

16.
17.
18.

ready to push the control button to advance. This is done nozzle and bed heated. And
once you go around bed twice, it will print a single layer .2mm thick test pattern of
discs at all four corners and the center. Along with a skirt that can be measured. You
can adjust each corner based on measured disc thickness from target size. Each
1/16 turn of the bed knobs is .04mm, this can fine tune the height.
Disable the steppers
Heat nozzle to 200` and bed to 60`.
Using the paper, move the hot end to each corner to set the bed to the paper move till
it folds method. Note it may be higher at next corner you are headed to. Keep paper
under nozzle, if you feel it getting tight as you move, lower the bed as needed to be
able to move the nozzle to the corner. Do this to all four corners
Now do one more round of fine tuning, using the paper touch method as the other
corners were affected by the adjustments made after you moved on from them.
Turn off hot end and bed by selecting cooldown from the menu.
You can slice a five point test to try, or a live level gcode file to give you a measurable
first layer to final adjust the bed height. The bed knobs move the bed .04mm per 1/16
turn of leveling knobs.

Thingiverse pattern/gcode links Ender-3/ CR-20
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3118088
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3069292
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948908
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3177424

Thingiverse pattern/gcode CR-10
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2898163
Continued next page
Thingiverse pattern/gcode CR-10-continued
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748074
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2188146
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187071
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2549082

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1.4.

PTFE Bowden fix

This step is to try and prevent
the Bowden tubing from getting
pushed away from the nozzle
inside the hot end. A common
trouble with stock fittings.
1. Preparation; the hot end
must have a clear path for the
tubing to insert.
2. New printer with no
evidence of test print continue to step 6.
3. If there has been any filament in the hot end, you need to remove nozzle with a heated hot
end.
4. Remove the Bowden fitting, while hot use the ptfe to pass down completely thru the hot
end clearing any plastic residue.
5. Re install nozzle, heat to 20` over your material temperature. Support the heat block insert
and tighten the nozzle.
6. The fix is to back the fitting off by 1 turn push down on tubing, then holding, while pulling up
on the Bowden lock collar. Reference video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAU7cIZ0Hns&t=185s
7. Apply a zip tie to the
fitting.
8. Tighten the Bowden
coupler firmly seating the
ptfe against nozzle.
9. Now mark the ptfe with
permanent marker or tape at
fitting to be a witness of any
ptfe movement from the
nozzle.
10. Select cooldown in the control panel.
Advanced technique print and install this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831

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1.5.

Filament loading

3. Filament Loading

1. First let’s prepare the filament to be loaded.
2. Remove the filament from the air tight packing.
3. Be careful that once you free the end from the tape or hole it has been secured with.
That you do not let go, until it is in the extruder, or re-secured to roll. If you
accidentally introduce an over wrap or knot. It will plague your filament being
dispensed till the knot is removed.
4. It is general practice to use the flush cut pliers to cut a steep angle on the filament
end before insertion.
5. Use one hand to release the extruder tension arm, using the other to feed the
filament past the drive gear and guide roller. Sometimes it is helpful to not release too
far, this lets the guide roller assist in lining up filament with extruder passage hole.
6. Keep feeding in the filament till you feel it hit the resistance of the hot end.
7. If it was already hot, push until you see filament being extruded.
8. If cold bring up to temperature and then push till it extrudes.
9. If changing color of filament, use the Extruder manual control in the control panel. It
may take 45 to 100 mm to clear a previous color
10. Note if changing filament type, go to the temperature of the highest of the two being
swapped. Extrude till you’re sure the previous material has been cleared.
11. You are now loaded with filament.
12. Use control to select cooldown. Or start a print in a few minutes. We don’t want to
cook the filament for extended periods of time if we can help it.
Mods that help this.
A printed knob for the extruder to use with disabled stepper, so you can use knob to
draw in the filament rather than the release. I still use release arm to then continue to
push the filament to the hot end. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3005278

1.6.

Finding .stl models

What is an .stl file? This is the file
designation for a method of taking
a model, and using a program to
break it down into triangles that the
Slicing software can use to make
the parts we want. The hot shows
me preparing an part for export
and slicing. I chose low refinement
of the triangle count to allow you to
see the triangles involved. The
finer detail you want in a finished
part, the more triangles you will
want at creation.

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So you are not a 3d modeler, this is ok. We have hundereds of repositories of .stl based
models that other people have created. Many free, some will ask for money for detailed, or
copyrighted models.
Google isn’t .st friendly, so where are these repositories? https://www.aniwaa.com/best-sitesdownload-free-stl-files-3d-models-and-3d-printable-files-3d-printing/
That site has a list of the best options available. The author is engaged at
www.thingiverse.com
Here is my Ender-3 collection, you can find my other models and information from there.
https://www.thingiverse.com/OneBadMarine/collections/ender-3

Okay I have found my .stl I want to print. What do I do now?
We need to use a slicer to modify the .stl into gcode for the printer to be able to make it.
Ok, another strange named file. What is it? Gcode is a series of instruction that instructs the
printer what to do. There are M codes, or modal commands, and g code or linear travel
instructions. But thankfully for the most part the slicing software takes care of that for us.
Slicer, what is that? It gets its nickname from slicing the part into layers, so that the printer
knows what to do in each layer to build your new model you want.
See Slicing software to learn what slicers are available and basics on how to use them.

1.7.

Slicing software

5. Slicing software to learn what slicers are available and basics on how to use them.

What is Slicing software? It is a tool to translate .stl files into Gcode files that we can print
with. Using a set of directions or rules that we give it in our profiles. A profile can be a static
set of instructions given the slicer, or a basic set of instructions that the user augments with
additional instructions based on the part shape or special requirements to print.
So what slicers are out there. We have Simplify3d, a paid product that is often preferred by
advanced users. Cura, a product of Ultimaker brand printers. Slic3r an open source based
project. Repertier, a slicer that can be used with Cura in certain packages. And many more.
So for the how to set up and how to add others profiles, I will focus on Cura as it is what I use.
To start, skip the shipped version of the software sent with the printer, it is likely several
versions or updates out of date. So head to https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-curasoftware
, or the Slicer of your choice’s home page to find the last full release that is not a Beta testing
version.
My images will be from Cura 3.5.1

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Setting up the slicer
The first you must do is set up a machine profile in the slicer to define your machine to the
software.

Most mainstream printers will have a selectable pre-set profile in the software. If not you will
have to give it the relevant information to define the printer.

That would be build volume, what firmware used, and the location of the origin in relation to
the bed surface. For Ender3 as an example to use full build volume (Requiring a bootloader

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and changing bed safety parameters) X 235mm Y 235mm Z 250mm with extruder offset of
X0 Y2.5.
We have now established the printer. There are stock profiles based on an material brand
and type within most of the slicers. So for example you could choose Hatchbox PLA and it will
give you a base profile with the settings that were suggested by the mfg to print their product.
Or you can forgo that and set the temperatures and other settings using the custom option
and select what you determine would be the best for the print you are slicing.
You can also borrow from others experience by
finding other users profiles in groups or places
where other users gather and share information.
For example if you were to go to any of the Creality
user groups I participate in. In Facebook groups
there is a section called Files. You can see the
profile name, slicer type by the file extension, and
who up loaded it. You can then download the file,
unzip the profile into a new folder, and set up to use
it in your slicer. You will go to the profile editing
section of the slicer and they will have some sort of
import or add profile option to load the profile for
your use.
Slicing terms and functions the basics
Here are some of the basic terms for what you may need to select or provide values for to
slice a part. I will list the sections as Cura defines them and what values to input.
Quality; you will need to set the layer height. This is the amount the printer will lay down in a
given layer of the print. This will be from .04 to .3mm with an stock .4mm nozzle. Also the first
layer height, this may differ from the layer height as you do not want to get too close to bed
and cause a nozzle jam or potentially hit the bed with nozzle if bed is not perfectly flat. Most
users will run first layer at .2 or .3mm height. Note for other size nozzles you should not
exceed 75% of the nozzle diameter as the maximum layer height.
Shell; This pertains to the thickness of the outer layer of the part. It may be defined by setting
a numeric value based on nozzle size, or as layers also referencing nozzle width as a count
of how many layers wide you want the walls. Example 1 layer or .4mm based on a .4 nozzle
width, or 1.2mm and 3 shell or walls for a part that needs more surface strength.
Infill; this is the way you can support the inside of part without making it a solid piece of
plastic. Infill can be from 1% to 100%. 20 to 40% is common range of infill for nonstructural
parts. Note that later in the part this controls how much support will be given to the top layers
of the part. If its too sparse the infill pattern may show in the part finish
Material; This section has four very important features defined. The nozzle temperature you
will be printing at, with sub options for first layer and top layer. Build plate or bed temperature
for part adhesion or to prevent warping. Flow which is a way you can change the extruded
amount if a filament is over or under extruding. And first layer flow which can be used in
conjunction with layer height to facilitate bed adhesion of first layer. And finally retraction.
Retraction is a mode that when the nozzle is moving but not wanting to extrude, it pulls the
filament back against the molten zone, trying to keep it from leaking while moving.

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Speed; This controls printing speeds for different areas of the print. With sub options for first
layer, outer wall inner wall and infill print speeds.
Travel; has a few options to avoid crossing certain areas while re positioning the nozzle
during printing.
Cooling; setting when or if you want the part cooling fan to run, and what percentage of its
capacity to run at if selected.
Support; This prints waste material that will not bond to the primary model, when there are
areas that start printing above the initial be height and need support till that section bonds
with the kept part. It has multiple choices as to where support will be added. 15% is a good
starting point for support.
Build plate adhesion; There are a few choices in this category. Skirt, is a priming function,
so that if model needs no extra adhesion, the nozzle is still primed when printing commences
on the part. Second is Brim, this adds multiple passed adjacent to and connecting to the part,
to add stability, or help edge to not lift up from the bed. And Rafts, this uses significantly more
filament, but can manufacture a flatter surface on which the part is built, as it evens out bed
irregularities before printing the part using the raft as its build platform.

Options for transferring gcode from computer to printer
1. Save it directly to the SD card.
2. Connect via the usb port directly to printer using software
3. Via an raspberryPi

1.8.

E steps and flow rate tuning

E step calculation
What is an E step? This is the description of how many times the stepper motor on the
extruder must advance for 100mm of filament to be advanced. There is two methods that can
be used. First method is to remove the Bowden tube from the extruder. We will call this the
free air method. The second would be to do the test thru the heated extruder. The through the
extruder is done by marking the filament at 100 and 120 mm from the inlet to the extruder.
Then use the controller or gcode to advance 100mm of filament. Once done, you measure the
distance from the extruder to the 20mm mark to determine actual length advanced. You then
use the actual filament extruded in a formula, along with the current e step to calculate your
new E step value. Example using 87 mm advanced (100 commanded measured 33mm from
the 120mm mark, giving 87 actual distance traveled) and 98 for current e step; Formula
100/87 = 1.1494 x 98 = 112.64 so rounded off that’s a new e step of 113 steps.

Using the free air method, we will remove the Bowden tube and coupler from the extruder.
Run the filament just out of the extruder by hand and use flush cuts to cut it at face of
extruder. Now use the control panel to advance 100mm with hot end at temperature, as
extruder will not function when nozzle off. Or use this gcode put into a text editor and saved
as a gcode file extension for use in the printer. Note if you use abl use your start g28/g29 in
place of whats provided here.

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; 100mm gcode advancement program
G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; HOME ALL AXIS
G90 ; ABSOLUTE POSITIONING
G92 E0 ; SET EXTRUDER TO ZERO VALUE
M92 E93 ; ***SET NEW E STEP *** (93 is factory value) (set new target value here once you
;have calculated your new estep, to run a test of the new value)
M190 S60 ;
M104 S215 ;
M109 ;
M82 ;
GO1 E100 F200; ADVANCE 100MM OF FILAMENT (***set to F50 if using the thru the hot
end method****)
M140 S0 ;
M104 S0 ;
G90 E0; Return to absolute positioning

Continued next page

After extrusion stops, cut the filament in same location. Take the cut piece and measure its
length. Use 100/measured length x the current e step to calculate your new e step. Example;
we sent 100mm with an e step of 93mm the stock ender 3 value. Our cut length of material
was 86mm. So 100 / 86 is 1.1628 x93 equals a new e step of 108.13 or 108.
Ideology of each method. Free air is giving a direct linear advance without the restriction of
the hot end flow path. The slicer is designed to use linear value along with measured
diameter to calculate extruded volume in a part tool path. This method does not require you to
calculate e steps again if changing filament type. It is one and done, only to be re visited if
changing extruder or extruder drive gear. With this method any filament used will then be
tuned with the flow rate to optimal extrusion using a single wall test cube. Print the cube at .40
single wall, then measure and record 2 values from all 4 sides. Add them together and divide
by eight. Divide .40 by the resultant, and multipy that by 100 to give your new flow rate or
extrusion multiplier. Example test cube measurements avg to be .428 so we take .4/.428
which equals .934579 x 100 = 93.458 or 93% flow rate as your new value. Note: if you had
already been using a flow rate modifier, you would be at that % of the rate you were using.
Example was at 97% and the calculation comes to 92%. That’s 92% of 97% or 89% 97 x.92
is 89
In summary, the author prefers this method, as I never have to chase my e step, I can mark a
filament of any type with its flow % on the spools label, and just change it in slicer. Being able
to move through many materials at will.

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Ideology of threw the nozzle method. When done with a given filament, the flow rate may be
left at 100% as you have tuned the e step to the current condition of the hot end and the
specific filament that you are running. There is no need for a flow test to be done once the e
step is set, unless conditions change.

1.9.

Bed center establish

8. How do I get my nozzle centered on the bed
First open up the machine settings for the slicer. You want X 235 Y 235 Z 250.
Then you need to also tell slicer how far from the bed corner the mechanical home is.
For a standard Ender-3 this is X 0 Y 2.5, to be entered as extruder offset.
To realize the back extra 15mm and the right 15mm that are past the machine default of X
220 Y 220 you must install a bootloader and change the machine hard travel limits to match
the 235 235 over all capacity

1.10. List of mods that are in other parts of document that
are able to be performed at assembly
1. Bed stabilization mod. This requires four 4 mm x .7mm pitch nuts
2. Stepper dampeners
Suggested Mods that can be done at any point.
1. Bed screw stabilization in the modification section, you will need four 4mm nuts to
execute
2. Change out springs for the CR 10 springs https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-LightCompression-SpringYellow/dp/B013G5I4US/ref=pd_sbs_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013G5I4US
&pd_rd_r=77568fe0-e95a-11e8-8731197ef284cbe4&pd_rd_w=ZTXIH&pd_rd_wg=60mG3&pf_rd_i=desktop-dpsims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=20HBVE4F71MJGWQZZ6P6&pf_rd_s=desktop-dpsims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=20HBVE4F71MJGWQZZ6P6
3. Extruder replacement https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-ExtruderAluminum/dp/B07J44QW8B/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1542343711&sr
=11&keywords=creality+3d+extruder&dpID=41Kz8GVrSHL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&d
pSrc=srch
4. Stepper dampeners ; search amazon there are 2 needed to quiet the primary drive
steppers

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1.11. Rocking base fix
How to get your printer to not rock
on two corners if frame was twisted.
Loosen the four bolts two on each
side on the lower base extrusions.
Grab the top rail and move it fore
and aft. The feet should be sitting
flat on the table now. Slide each
side just off the table and re tighten
the bolts.

1.12. Extruder trouble shooting

Items that may cause intermittent extrusion fluctuations
1. Crack in the release lever,
sometimes cannot be seen
from the top side.

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Eccentric hole in drive gear. Causes patterns to show in the
first layer or top layer of parts.
2. The drive gear slipping on the drive shaft. Fix ;
make sure one of the two grub screws is on the
drive flat. A little blue Loctite can keep them from
vibrating loose.
3. The pivot screw for the release arm being over
tightened, causing the spring tension not to transfer
to the idler bearing
4. Spring pressure is too weak
5. Filament has worn the release arm causing friction
and drag on the filament
6. The drive gear has excessive wear on the teeth.
Move gear to a different height or replace.

2.

2.1.1.

Luke’s check list to a stable/fine-tuned
machine
Z binding shim

Shaft Alignment/Binding correction

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Symptoms; Prints are too short/compressed in height, varying thickness of
layers throughout the part, occasionally Z axis motor clicking/skipping.
Procedure. You are now going to align
the Z stepper motor to the Z drive
screw. Support X axis just off bed with
50mm support. Remove the Z rod from
the coupler, using the top two grub
screws. Remove the 2 bolts holding the
stepper motor to the frame. Now insert the
shaft into the stepper and measure the
gap from bracket to the extrusion. A
shim of that thickness between stepper
motor and frame is needed. List of
shims and printable stepper holders below.
If you currently are not able to print a solution, a nut put on both bolts in
between the stepper and the extrusion can temporarily reduce binding. Then
you can print a shim to fix properly.
Find the right shim thickness you need on www.thingiverse.com or here's a
couple I have found.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2959991

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2526607

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https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115362

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Alternate methods
Option 1
If your bracket is bent so much that the shim does not fully correct this issue.
You can thru drill the bushing and bracket with an 3mm or 1/8”drill bit.
Replace original screws with 3mm x15 screws and nyloc nuts, or doubled nuts
jammed together. Take till tight, then back off 1 turn. The 2 nut jam will be
hard to accomplish, but not all have access to nyloc 3mm nuts at home depot,
so this option is included.

Option two;
Remove the x gantry , strip all parts from bracket holding the z nut. Put
bracket in vice bending to 90` using a crescent wrench.

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2.1.2.

X gantry rework

Re-alignment of the X gantry assembly of single stepper drive Ender-3 and CR-10 models
(other MFG. using same system) with an following 3 wheel trolley. Creating stable Z
repeatability and fixing x lagging or hanging up

So an explanation of the methodology of the adjustment you are about to
perform. Many teaching guides have you use the cross extrusion to align the faces of
the vertical extrusions. This would be an excellent practice, if, the wheel trolleys were
then sitting perfectly square to the vertical extrusions. But we are in an imperfect
world. We want the two rolling trolleys to travel together with no lag of the right side
and assist in always returning to a consistent position for the tramming of the bed or
leveling. My observation is that using the previously mentioned method may be
having the wheels try to run out of the v groove because the trolleys are twisted and
may exaggerate any inconsistency in “V” groove geometry. Either way, this new
method offered has proven reliable for the author and many people who struggled
with bed level inconsistency.
You will see references to eccentric nuts. This is one with the wheel and bolt thru it
removed in the accompanying photo. They will always be between a wheel and a
bracket/frame, not on the end of
a bolt. Those nuts would be the
nut holding the whole assembly
together. By rotating the
eccentric nut, you are moving the
attached wheel either closer or
further from the extrusion it rides
on. One item to note, if you rotate
the nut clockwise as facing the
retention nut, it will try to loosen
the retention nut. And there is no
consistency from the factory on
which way they started them. So
anti clockwise is better, monitor
the retention nut and the
assembly tightness as you make
these adjustments. The wheels should never be so tight that if a trolley of carriage is
held in place, that a wheel could not be spun with a bit of force with 2 fingers

Continued next page

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Directions

Remove any filament from the printer, and then remove
mains power and un plug the extruder, X stepper motor, and x end stop connections from
the X gantry.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.

34.
35.
36.

37.

38.

Lower or remove z end stop.
Remove the top rail extrusion.
Support the x gantry and remove the z lead screw.
Take X gantry and set on the table.
Loosen the 4 screws that attach to the bottom of the two vertical extrusions. They
should be able to be rotated with medium force within the range the slop in the
screws allow.
Remove the 2 screws holding on the three-wheel trolley.
Place trolley on the right-hand extrusion.
The two screws
securing the
horizontal
extrusion to the z
drive bracket.
Loosen them,
then re-tighten to
just past snug.
Put the drive side
of the gantry on
to the vertical
extrusion.
While supporting it from hitting the table (Find a household object that is more than 40
mm tall to go between extrusion and the bed.),
adjust the eccentric nut shown in photo. Back
the nut off until the crossarm can be moved
easily front to back with the slop in the guide
wheels. Then slowly tighten it, in small steps
while moving fore and aft till the play in the
wheels stops. No further, as this will cause
problems later. Leave supported above the bed.
39.
Put the right-side trolley on to the
horizontal extrusion. Adjust the eccentric wheel
until the trolley is loose when rotated side to
side. Then slowly tighten in small steps, until
the play goes away.
40.
Now position the right-side trolley in
position like you are going to connect the two
halves of the gantry together at the position you
left the gantry supported at.

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41. Then using the rotation of the vertical extrusions rotate both left and right extrusions
until the mating surfaces of the two parts are parallel and just lightly touching.
42. Mate the two together with the two m4 x16 screws.
43. We will now temporarily put the top rail in place, with the machined counter sink side
on top.
44. Tighten the bolts on top rail extrusion up snug.

45. Prepare for this step by having the z rod at hand. Bring the x gantry up near the top
rail. Insert the z rod by screwing it through the nut until it is in the coupler of z
stepper. Lightly tighten the top grub/set screw of the aluminum coupler.

46. Now that Z rod is holding the weight, measure from the X gantry extrusion to the top
rail on the far left, and again on far right. If there is more than 1 mm of difference in

the measurements,
correct.

adjust to

47. You had left the 2 screws holding the cross arm extrusion not fully tight, so with a bit
of pressure, you should be able to lift up or push down to level arm. (Note if it will not
stabilize in level position because arm keeps dropping, take top rail off, undo the Z
rod and remove, then pull assembly tightening the two bolts nearest the extruder
motor again, so that it still can be manipulated for adjustment. Then repeat this step)
48. Once leveled, remove the top rail extrusion.
49. Now while supporting the x gantry, loosened grub screw on z coupler, remove Z rod
and carefully lift the X gantry off the vertical extrusions.
50. Final tighten the 2 screws nearest the extruder, very firmly now, but take care to not
strip the threads or round out the screw heads. (DO NOT use the ball sockets of the
Allen key for this tightening).
51. Place the X gantry back onto the vertical extrusions and support it with work head off
the bed surface.
52. Install the top rail extrusion and take to firmly tightened.
53. Tighten thee 4 screws under the vertical extrusions.
54. Install Z lead screw.
55. Re connect all wiring
56. Remove that support used earlier.

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57. Tighten all bed screws down till tight moving them in pairs, front 2 then rear 2. Then
back off 4 turns, again working in pairs.
58. Now move the nozzle manually to the front left corner of the bed, using the Z screw
by hand lower and touch off to a piece of paper.
59. Take the Z end stop switch and slide it up until you hear the switch click. Tighten the
2 screws.
60. Auto home all axis and re tram the the bed.

Congratulations your x gantry is now optimally aligned

2.1.3.

Bed stabilization mod

Bed modification to stabilize adjustment screws
The goal
Stabilizing the screws that cause bed level to shift often, also to secure the
screw’s, so they do not spin when attempting to tighten adjustment knobs.
Also stopping them from being able to lean or tip from being perpendicular to
the bed plane.
Process: Take the knobs off, lift bed up and remove the springs. Take care to
not stress the heater wires as you flip over the bed to work on it.
Add four 4mm jam nuts to lock the screws to the bedsurface.
You will need to stop screw from rotating with a pliers as you tighten nut
against back of bed surface.
Holding bed level test fit the bed into the Y mounting plate making sure
screws freely move through that plate. If not, slightly enlarge holes, or loosen
and shift screws so they do not hang up when moving up and down.
Re assemble bed.

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2.1.4.

Set bed height and adjustment.

We are going to adjust the bed spring tension. Set the z end stop height, and paper level the
bed. Or use a gcode assisted leveling. What we are doing is actually bed tramming, which
aligns the x gantry arm and the bed to each other.
1. Loosen and lower or remove the Z
end stop. Shown in the photo at
bottom of left vertical extrusion.
2. Working the knobs in pairs, front
and back, tighten the bed down until
the springs are fully compressed.
3. Back of the knobs 3 to 4 turns all 4
corners. Again, working in pairs. As
pictured
4. Disable the stepper motors
5. Manually move the hot end up
above the bed in front left corner.
Using the z lead screw, and
manually moving bed and x trolley.
6. Using z lead screw, slowly lower
the the x gantry until a piece of
paper moving back and forth under
nozzle folds as you push the paper
in.
7. Put Z end stop on rail,
8. Run it up until you hear the switch
“click”
9. Tighten the Z end stop at this
position.
10. If the little plastic nub is in the way, remove it using the provided flush cut pliers.
11. Activate the Home all on the machine controller
12. Alternate method Use the thingiverse file https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803
this will take the hot end above bed coming down to zero at each corner lifting up and
coming down, waiting until your ready to push the control button to advance. This is
done nozzle and bed heated. And once you go around bed twice, it will print a single
layer .2mm thick test pattern of discs at all four corners and the center. Along with a
skirt that can be measured. You can adjust each corner based on measured disc
thickness from target size. Each 1/16 turn of the bed knobs is .04mm , this can fine
tune the height.
13. Disable the steppers
14. Heat nozzle to 200` and bed to 60`.
15. Using the paper, move the hot end to each corner to set the bed to the paper move till
it folds method. Note it may be higher at next corner you are headed to. Keep paper
under nozzle, if you feel it getting tight as you move, lower the bed as needed to be
able to move the nozzle to the corner. Do this to all four corners
16. Now do one more round of fine tuning, using the paper touch method as the other
corners were affected by the adjustments made after you moved on from them.
17. Turn off hot end and bed by selecting cooldown from the menu.
18. You can slice a 5 point test to try, or a live level gcode file to give you a measurable
first layer to final adjust the bed height. The bed knobs move the bed .04mm per 1/16
turn of leveling knobs.

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19. Thingiverse pattern/gcode links Ender-3/ CR-20
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3118088
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3069292
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948908
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3177424

19. Thingiverse pattern/gcode CR-10
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2898163
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2748074
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2188146
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187071
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2549082

2.1.5.

Hot end fix

13. Original Creality hot end ptfe fix
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831
Why do I want to do this fix to my hot end?
Answer; it takes the bownden fitting duties
for holding the ptfe to the back of nozzle
away from the grabber teeth, and uses the
fitting body to trap a spacer creating a
consistent capture of the cut length of
tubing to the nozzle and no void that often
happens with factory arrangement can
occur.
This fix adds a spacer inside the top of hot
end that allows a cut length of tubing to be
lightly compressed against the nozzle. also
taking the extra work of maintaining that seal away from the teeth in the bowden coupler.
There are verions currently for the following model hot ends, Ender-3, CR10, CR10S Pro
( Pro----note that i am preparing an addendem as with the screw in throat you will need to
adjust to pre determined measurements for tube to work).
If your model hot end is not listed contact me to see if we can fit it up as well.
!!!! If for some reason the parts do not work. Contact me so we can determine if you have out
of specification parts. !!!!

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Notes:
Files set to print at 60mm/s, 100% infill no supports. .12mm layer height.

How to correct the spacer if the hole is printing too small for filament to pass thru.
Easiest way is to reduce your flow rate, either in the slicer, or you may over ride flow during
the print. I would suggest a 5% decrease in flow, each attempt till you get desired result. The
spacer is a 4 minute print solo. So don't be afraid to print it a time or two so you have a well
fitting part.

Video on why and installation
https://youtu.be/ANUhIF1YrRU

Post-Printing
Step 1 Detail parts

1. Make sure that the insert washer is able to pass a piece of
filament loosely thru the center hole.

2. Ensure it easily fits inside the cooling block threaded
countersink, so it is not stuck later during maintenance
activities.
3. Check that the ptfe fits thru the cutting guide/guage.
4. Clear hot end and reset nozzle
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.

LUKE HATFIELD V2.0 2018

Prepare the hot end
Heat up the hot end
Remove filament
Remove the bowden tube and its fitting
Remove the nozzle
Use ptfe to clear any plastic in throat by passing the ptfe top
down thru the heat block several times
Make sure no plastic on mating surface/back of the nozzle
and re install
Take temperature to 20` over operating temp and final
tighten nozzle supporting heat block while tightening
Cut ptfe and install all parts
Use the cut guide/gauge to cut your ptfe piece for inside the
hot end.
Tubing can come from the original tube, or upgrade by using
capricorn xs for this hot zone piece

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16. Have a piece of filament cut to about 100mm for testing
fitment and a guiding assembly
17. Put the cut piece of tubing into the heated hot end
18. Put the spacer washer into the top of the cooling block
19. Hand screw the bowden fitting in until it just touches spacer
washer
20. Put filament thru washer and slowly move it up and down
while tightening the bowden coupler down on the spacer till
its tight enough it wont easily back off in use.
21. There will be a small space between the shoulder of the
fitting and cooling block. This is normal, and ensures the
spacer is being compressed and compressing ptfe lightly into
nozzle inside the hot end.
22. Push your supply ptfe into the fitting till it stops, pull up on
lock collar and zip tie or put clip on.
23. Load filament
Congratulations you are now done.
Enjoy your new less back pressure flow, as the small void left by the push pull nature of the
design of the original flow path have been eliminated. and your bowden fitting will see less
forces trying to push the tube back.
How I Designed This
Fusion 360

Modeled using parametric techniques

Maintenance and FAQ.

Does this effect routine maintenance of nozzle.
No, as the tube should remain in place when removing and replacing a nozzle.

How do I get the cut ptfe out for changing it.
Remove Bowden coupler, use a small Allen key to fish out the spacer, remove nozzle and
push through while hot end heated with an 3mm Allen key wrench.

My spacer was a bit big and its stuck, not able to remove from top end.
Heat up the hot end, remove the nozzle, use 3mm Allen key to push ptfe and washer from the
bottom end, out the top.

How much skill does it take to do this mod?
If you can handle removing a nozzle and Bowden fitting, routine maintenance, you should be
ok to use this mod.

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Does this alter my printer permanently? No, with the understanding that if you cut the primary
bowden tube, it could be short on travel if you stop using mod and were to try and use tubing
you cut.

2.1.6.

E step calculation

What is an E step? This is the description of how many times the stepper motor on the
extruder must advance for 100mm of filament to be advanced. There is two methods that can
be used. First method is to remove the Bowden tube from the extruder. We will call this the
free air method. The second would be to do the test thru the heated extruder. The through the
extruder is done by marking the filament at 100 and 120 mm from the inlet to the extruder.
Then use the controller or gcode to advance 100mm of filament. Once done, you measure the
distance from the extruder to the 20mm mark to determine actual length advanced. You then
use the actual filament extruded in a formula, along with the current e step to calculate your
new E step value. Example using 87 mm advanced (100 commanded measured 33mm from
the 120mm mark, giving 87 actual distance traveled) and 98 for current e step; Formula
100/87 = 1.1494 x 98 = 112.64 so rounded off that’s a new e step of 113 steps.

Using the free air method, we will remove the Bowden tube and coupler from the extruder.
Run the filament just out of the extruder by hand and use flush cuts to cut it at face of
extruder. Now use the control panel to advance 100mm with hot end at temperature, as
extruder will not function when nozzle off. Or use this gcode put into a text editor and saved
as a .gcode file extension for use in the printer. Note if you use abl use your start g28/g29 in
place of whats provided here.
; 100mm gcode advancement program
G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; HOME ALL AXIS
G90 ; ABSOLUTE POSITIONING
G92 E0 ; SET EXTRUDER TO ZERO VALUE
M92 E93 ; ***SET NEW E STEP *** (93 is factory value) (set new target value here once you
;have calculated your new estep, to run a test of the new value)
M190 S60 ;
M104 S215 ;
M109 ;
M82 ;
GO1 E100 F200; ADVANCE 100MM OF FILAMENT (***set to F50 if using the thru the hot
end method****)
M140 S0 ;
M104 S0 ;
G90 E0; Return to absolute positioning

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After extrusion stops, cut the filament in same location. Take the cut piece and measure its
length. Use 100/measured length x the current e step to calculate your new e step. Example;
we sent 100mm with an e step of 93mm the stock ender 3 value. Our cut length of material
was 86mm. So 100 / 86 is 1.1628 x93 equals a new e step of 108.13 or 108.
Ideology of each method. Free air is giving a direct linear advance without the restriction of
the hot end flow path. The slicer is designed to use linear value along with measured
diameter to calculate extruded volume in a part tool path. This method does not require you to
calculate e steps again if changing filament type. It is one and done, only to be re visited if
changing extruder or extruder drive gear.
Ideology of threw the nozzle method. When done with a given filament, the flow rate may be
left at 100% as you have tuned the e step to the current condition of the hot end and the
specific filament that you are running. There is no need for a flow test to be done once the e
step is set, unless conditions change.

2.1.6.1.

Flow
With this method any filament used will then be tuned with the flow
rate to optimal extrusion using a single wall test cube. Print the cube
at .40 single wall, then measure and record 2 values from all 4 sides.
Add them together and divide by eight. Divide .40 by the resultant,
and multipy that by 100 to give your new flow rate or extrusion
multiplier. Example test cube measurements avg to be .428 so we
take .4/.428 which equals .934579 x 100 = 93.458 or 93% flow rate
as your new value. Note: if you had already been using a flow rate
modifier, you would be at that % of the rate you were using. Example
was at 97% and the calculation comes to 92%. That’s 92% of 97% or
89% 97 x.92 is 89

In summary, the author prefers this method, as I never have to chase my e step, I can mark a
filament of any type with its flow % on the spools label, and just change it in slicer. Being able
to move through many materials at will.

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2.1.7.

Y axis trolley eccentric wheel adjustment

Y axis eccentric nut adjustment with pictures of what eccentric nuts
look like.
Issue
Bed rollers not properly tensioned to v groove
Symptoms;
Too Loose;
Bed has excessive rock or wobble when gently rocking across X axis, bed
leveling does not repeat,
layer lines have waves in them.
Too Tight;
Stepper straining, a pronounced flat spot develops on wheels when left unused for a while. Type 1 bed skewed away from square in Y axis.
Example of eccentric nut to understand how they function.
This is the
eccentric
wheel in
the fully
loose
position
where
through
bolt is
furthest
away from
the fixed
idler
wheels
(left side
in photo)

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Fix;
Condition bed is Too Loose: Type 2 (later models)
Tip machine up or lay on side. Use eccentric nuts
(Shown exposed in photos below) on the one side to
adjust. Loosen both of the eccentric nut wheels. Rotate
first nut until it just stops excessive movement. Second
eccentric nut tightening till there is some resistance to
turning rubber wheel while holding carriage in place.
Once adjusted properly a moderate pressure applied to
the bed corner should only see 1 to 2mm of deflection.

Condition bed is Too Loose; Type 1(Early production
models) First design offset wheel pattern
Note the hand is tightening the compression nut, Not the Eccentric nut.
Tip machine up or
lay on side. Use
eccentric nuts to adjust.
Loosen both eccentric
wheels 3 and 4. Rotate
nut 3, until it just stops
excessive movement.
Second rotate nut 4,
tighten till there is some
resistance to turning
rubber wheel while
holding carriage in place.
!! Warning over
tightening this outside
wheel #4 can and will
cause bed to be skewed to the y axis.!! Do not over tighten.!!

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3.
3.1.

Hot end
Nozzle clogs or filament drag issues

Symptoms;
Clog or full stoppage, inconsistent extrusion, blockage, retraction no stopping stringing.
Infill not complete. Inconsistent outer wall surface.

Stock Ender 3 hot end with insulation and Kapton tape wrap.
Reason this occurred.
Why am I getting nozzle clog or restricted filament advancement? The most common
cause is that the PTFE tube pushed back away from nozzle inside the hot end. As
illustrated in this cut away drawing

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Figure 1 The PTFE pulled away about 2.5mm from nozzle in this discovery picture.

You now have a void space that once heat creep sets in or it gets to full operating
temperature, melting the plastic into void. This can cause drag, the filament can harden
over time restricting the path to the nozzle creating back pressure, often causing stepper
skipping, or also variations in flow. Once there is a gap the retraction, it can act on the
melted filament to hydraulically push it further away or back into the Bowden
connector. There are very specific tasks on re-assembly, if you do not read to the end,
and just re-assemble, you will likely see this happen again. Can take minutes or days to
re manifest.
Solution;
First disassemble the hot end.
!!!!This is a Hazardous Task, as you most likely will need to work with the hot end at
temperature for parts of disassembly and cleaning. !!!!
Tools needed, pliers or crescent wrench to support heat block, nozzle wrench or socket
that fits nozzle. Additional tools that can help, 2 pairs of pliers, heat gun, nozzle cleaner
from the Ender 3 tool kit, tooth picks, anything that you can scrape, heat or otherwise
clean up filament with.
First remove both the part and hot end fans, and pull them back and out of the way.

Continued next page

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1. Bowden coupler
2. Cooling body
3. Throat
4. Assembly screws
5. Heat block
6. Nozzle
To disassemble. While cold, insert the two screws between the heat block and
cooling body. If you have removed them prior re- install them.
(Note opinions vary on whether to remove these in normal use, Author prefers to
remove them as in my opinion it moves un-needed heat to cooling body causing heat
creep.) !!!The removal of the installation screws can cause serious issues, especially if
you have a defective or weak throat piece, you have been warned that it can cause loss
of use while diagnosing or repairing if these conditions exist!!!!
Heat up hot end, pull any remaining filament out from the Bowden tube.
Then support heat block, removing nozzle. You can choose to let heat block melt/drip
away some of the filament. Warning this can cause hazardous fumes. Once nozzle is
removed, remove grub screw holding the throat end while holding on to the heat block
with pliers.
Now clean all plastics out of throat, inside cooling body and the nozzle.
Assembly process
Because of filament residue in threads, this is best accomplished with nozzle
temperature set to 180`C to 250`C depending on what polymer of filament you use.
Screw nozzle into heat block until it bottoms out against its shoulder.
Tighten the nozzle while supporting the heater block
Using the two assembly screws push throat into cooling body.
Ensuring that the heat block is parallel to the bed.

Continued next page

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* Tighten the grub screw now, without stripping it out*

If you have a matching 3mm x 8mm long socket headed cap screw, i recommend that
you replace the grub screw entirely. Check clearance of all shrouds and covers prior to
full re assembly to check for interference.

Remove the installation screws and set aside for later hot end maintenance
work.
Heat up hot end to 10 degrees above the hottest working temperature you work at.
For author that is 255c.
While supporting heat block tighten nozzle firmly now.
In preparation for Bowden tube installation, pre mark your ptfe with a marker or piece
of tape at 51mm from end for a depth check after tightening. Back off the Bowden
coupler ¾ to 1&3/4 turn. Then push PTFE tubing firmly seated to a stop inside the hot
end against the back of nozzle. Now while continuing to push in, pull back on Bowden
locking collar and lock in place with zip tie, or a printed clip.
Now tighten Bowden coupler. This has ensured it is seated against the nozzle.
Feed filament until it oozes some outset control to cool down.
Re assemble the fans and shrouds .
You should now be on to printing without mechanically induced clogs.

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3.2.

Nozzle leaking

Nozzle leaking filament
Symptoms;
Burnt filament deposited in prints. Blobs of filament on top of heat block making it
encapsulated. Thick or thin wisps of filament that did not originate from nozzle tip. Heat
block covered in filament.
Fix
Pre heat hot end to 20` hotter than your planned working temperature.
Use a wrench or pliers to stabilize hot end.
Firmly tighten nozzle using supplied wrench or an socket that fits nozzle on a nut driving
handle or ratchet. Note if the nozzle bottoms out against the heat block before the
assembly tightens, you must dis assemble the throat , heatblock and nozzle. Re
assemble by running the nozzle to stop while heat block at temp. Back it off 1.5 turns,
run the throat in till touching nozzle, install throat into cooiling body. Tightne grub
screw. Heat to 20` over working temperature, support heat block and tighten nozzle.
Run bowden fitting in till tight, back off ¾ turn, insert ptfe till pushed against nozzle.
While holding it in , pull plastic collar up, and clip or zip tie it to lock. Now release
pressure and tighten the final ¾ turn, lightly compressing the ptfe against the nozzle to
try and prevent the “void”. See also the hot end fix as altenative to this method.

3.2.1.

How can my brand-new printer have a clog or jam?

The stock PTFE couplers are often of poor quality. They allow the ptfe to back away from
the nozzle creating a void.
The mfg does not give a method to add more than hand pressure to installing ptfe.
The material in void does not flow through, over time hardening and eventually causing
drag on the remaining path for the filament to travel.
See the nozzle clog section for repair process as fix for all these issues.

3.2.2.

I ran my nozzle into bed, could I have damaged the
nozzle?

Yes. There have been several reported in forums that were damaged, also creating an
issue diagnosing extrusion problems as an oval, or rolled lip on a nozzle does some very
erratic things while extruding. You may have also bent the throat which will be evident if
heat block is skewed.

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4.

Extruder

4.1.

Extruder trouble shooting

15. Extruder troubleshooting
Items that may cause intermittent extrusion fluctuations
1. Crack in the release lever,
sometimes cannot be seen
from the top side.

2.

Eccentric hole in drive gear.
Causes patterns to show in the
first layer or top layer of parts.

3. The drive gear slipping on the drive shaft. Fix ; make sure one of the two grub screws
is on the drive flat. A little blue Loctite can keep them from vibrating loose.

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4. The pivot screw for the release arm being over tightened, causing the spring tension
not to transfer to the idler bearing
5. Spring pressure is too weak
6. Filament has worn the release arm causing friction and drag on the filament

7. The drive gear has excessive wear on the teeth. Move to a different height or replace.

4.2.

Extruder issues

4.2.1.

Filament is being fed backwards

Issue
Filament is being fed backwards out of the extruder.
Commonly this is on a new build. The X and E stepper cables are reversed. Rumors of
occasional label swap, also reports of cables landed to the wrong mosfet on control
board by factory.
Fix
Reverse the stepper cables,
With others contact Creality support to get wiring diagram and put wires back in proper
order.

4.2.2.

What are the best replacement couplers for the Bowden
tube?

(this was volunteered by another, cannot vouch for validity of claims)
The M6 threaded one (PC4-M6) if you want to replace the hot end one as well, that is a
PC4-M10x0.9-4.1 (the tube goes through) If you aim for the stars, go with Festo
couplers/fittings but that's might be over the top.

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4.2.3.

How do I calculate e steps for my extruder? Also flow
rate?

E step calculation
What is an E step? This is the description of how many times the stepper motor on the
extruder must advance for 100mm of filament to be advanced. There is two methods that can
be used. First method is to remove the Bowden tube from the extruder. We will call this the
free air method. The second would be to do the test thru the heated extruder. The through the
extruder is done by marking the filament at 100 and 120 mm from the inlet to the extruder.
Then use the controller or gcode to advance 100mm of filament. Once done, you measure the
distance from the extruder to the 20mm mark to determine actual length advanced. You then
use the actual filament extruded in a formula, along with the current e step to calculate your
new E step value. Example using 87 mm advanced (100 commanded measured 33mm from
the 120mm mark, giving 87 actual distance traveled) and 98 for current e step; Formula
100/87 = 1.1494 x 98 = 112.64 so rounded off that’s a new e step of 113 steps.

Using the free air method, we will remove the Bowden tube and coupler from the extruder.
Run the filament just out of the extruder by hand and use flush cuts to cut it at face of
extruder. Now use the control panel to advance 100mm with hot end at temperature, as
extruder will not function when nozzle off. Or use this gcode put into a text editor and saved
as a .gcode file extension for use in the printer. Note if you use abl use your start g28/g29 in
place of whats provided here.
; 100mm gcode advancement program
G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; HOME ALL AXIS
G90 ; ABSOLUTE POSITIONING
G92 E0 ; SET EXTRUDER TO ZERO VALUE
M92 E93 ; ***SET NEW E STEP *** (93 is factory value) (set new target value here once you
;have calculated your new estep, to run a test of the new value)
M190 S60 ;
M104 S215 ;
M109 ;
M82 ;
GO1 E100 F200; ADVANCE 100MM OF FILAMENT (***set to F50 if using the thru the hot
end method****)
M140 S0 ;
M104 S0 ;
G90 E0; Return to absolute positioning

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After extrusion stops, cut the filament in same location. Take the cut piece and measure its
length. Use 100/measured length x the current e step to calculate your new e step. Example;
we sent 100mm with an e step of 93mm the stock ender 3 value. Our cut length of material
was 86mm. So 100 / 86 is 1.1628 x93 equals a new e step of 108.13 or 108.
Ideology of each method. Free air is giving a direct linear advance without the restriction of
the hot end flow path. The slicer is designed to use linear value along with measured
diameter to calculate extruded volume in a part tool path. This method does not require you to
calculate e steps again if changing filament type. It is one and done, only to be re visited if
changing extruder or extruder drive gear. With this method any filament used will then be
tuned with the flow rate to optimal extrusion using a single wall test cube. Print the cube at .40
single wall, then measure and record 2 values from all 4 sides. Add them together and divide
by eight. Divide .40 by the resultant, and multipy that by 100 to give your new flow rate or
extrusion multiplier. Example test cube measurements avg to be .428 so we take .4/.428
which equals .934579 x 100 = 93.458 or 93% flow rate as your new value. Note: if you had
already been using a flow rate modifier, you would be at that % of the rate you were using.
Example was at 97% and the calculation comes to 92%. That’s 92% of 97% or 89% 97 x.92
is 89
In summary, the author prefers this method, as I never have to chase my e step, I can mark a
filament of any type with its flow % on the spools label, and just change it in slicer. Being able
to move through many materials at will.
Ideology of threw the nozzle method. When done with a given filament, the flow rate may be
left at 100% as you have tuned the e step to the current condition of the hot end and the
specific filament that you are running. There is no need for a flow test to be done once the e
step is set, unless conditions change.

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5.
5.1.

Heated bed
Leveling the be

ENDER 3
Bed modification to stabilize adjustment screws
Followed by bed leveling , with two options

A tech tip for bed adjustments.
The goal
Stabilizing the screws that cause bed level to shift often, also to secure the screws so
they do not spin when attempting to tighten adjustment knobs.
Process: Take the knobs off, lift bed up and remove the springs. Take care to not stress
the heater wires as you flip over the bed to work on it.
Add four 4mm jam nuts to lock the screws to the bed surface.

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You will need to stop screw from rotating with a pliers as you tighten nut against back of
bed surface.
Holding bed level test fit the bed into the Y mounting plate making sure screws freely
move through that plate. If not, slightly enlarge holes, or loosen and shift screws so they
do not hang up when moving up and down.
Now put springs on, tightening springs till about 70% compressed.
Turn on printer and home all axis. Turn machine off or disable steppers. Y

Now loosen both screws on the Z end stop lowering it so it is not hit while you move the
x cairrage over the front right corner, using the nozzle wrench as a guage set nozzle
height its thickness above bed. Now take the z liit switch and slowly move up until you
hear the microswitch click, and tighten the stop bracket down.
Your now ready to move on to tram or “level” the bed to the nozzle and X axis.

Bed leveling procedures
Option 1;
Conventional manual level, must complete process highlighted in red above before
proceeding!
Tram the bed after homing all axis and disabling stepper motors. Pre heat bed and
nozzle to your normal working temperatures. 200` c and 60`c avg. Then move to each of
the four corners using the paper till it drags method to bring bed up to the. You should
move to each of the 4 corners in rotation making two or three trips around until you are
confident the 4 corners are equal. The author finds that using notebook paper if you
tighten while sliding paper in and out under nozzle, when the paper folds on the push,
that will be near .25mm from the bed. Once this is done you can measure your skirt on
your first print to make adjustment to Z height. The thread pitch for the 4mm screws is

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.7mm per revolution. This nets movement of .0875 per 1/8 turn, .175 per ¼ turn, .35 per
half turn…..and so on. If you have reached the set value in your slicer for first layer
height. And your filament is not sticking to the bed. Leave Z height here. Use the first
layer flow to add “squish” until you are happy with the adhesion to the bed. 104 to
112% would be a normal range for that value.
Option 2; G code assisted level with a confirmation test print as continuation of the
program.
Go to Thingiverse and download the files for
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803.
You need to perform must complete process highlighted in red above before
proceeding!
The g code will pre heat nozzle and bed. Then move over front left corner and park.
Using paper, adjust up till the paper gets to the point where it drags on pulling, and folds
when pushed forward. Push knob to move to next step. Note, if you work both front
adjustment wheels together, it will help keep the opposite side from restricting the
move up. Hit button on printer. It will go up in z and move over to come down on right
side. Have paper under as it comes down. Adjust up if paper is loose, down if trapped.
This same sequence will happen on back 2 corners. Then it will make another or second
round of the 4 corners to fine tune the level. After the last manual level, it prints a skirt
and 5 round circles. They should all measure. 3mm if the leveling went well. If the center
disc is off from the outsides, minor corrections can be made for a difference of up to
.1mm, much more and you may need to look at a replacement bed surface. Note the
adjustment screws have a thread pitch of .5 mm. That means .125mm per 1/4 turn of
the adjustment knob. You can fine tune without running full program if you're printed
pads are too thin or thick. The author prefers to see the skirt at .27 to .33 with a set
value of .3mm for first layer in the slicing software.

5.2.

Heated bed issues

5.3.

Warped bed

Issue
Bed is warped on delivery, is this normal?
Fix.
On machines with an overall flatness of >.15mm, after tramming bed, with the height
difference split, it is capable of usable prints for most users with manual leveling
techniques
With a Flatness of .15 to >.27mm, using mesh bed leveling, or an aftermarket probe and
software correction. These can still be used.
<.27mm or greater and for any bed where the 3d operator is not able or willing to adjust
for an out of flat bed.
Mirror or Glass cut to 235 by 235 can be cut and clamped to bed for a flatter surface. In
some cases, capton tape may be needed to be applied to the bed to keep these add on
surfaces supported and flat.
There is a myriad of other magnetic and other types of bed materials available, I
encourage you to research what you think will work for you on your own. As this is a

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very personal choice. And to Authors knowledge no surface covers every polymer
available.
Question
Is anyone using Cura? Are there any good profiles?
Answer;
Seek out Facebook groups, or Internet 3d printing forums, and search their files or file
archive sections for a profile that may suit the style of printing you are performing. For
example, a Miniatures profile, or a file tuned for an specialty filament like Nylon or Abs,
or? It's up to you, your materials used and your imagination.
The authors profiles are listed on the 5 groups I participate in, look for Luke
Hatfield

6.
6.1.

X axis
X axis tuning

X axis tuning
Symptoms;
No repeatability in bed level or first layer adhesion.
Occasionally varied layer heights if arm is catching and then releasing.
There are three possible mechanical causes for this if bed stabilization has been
modified per tutorial here.
Issue One;
Improperly adjusted Y axis bed carriage/trolley wheel bearing rollers.
Fix
With the bed tensioner removed, the bed should move fore and aft freely, and no
wobble if gently rocking side to side across the carriage.
To adjust, loosen the two eccentric nuts until carriage is loose. Slowly adjust one till the
play just goes away, now adjust second till it snugs up and you can just cause it to slip
pulling on the wheel radially with your fingers with carriage held in place.

Issue Two;
Symptom;
X axis drag of arm, due to not fully tightening the cross-extrusion bolts between x motor
bracket and the cross extrusion. Or cross extrusion was not parallel at time of asssembly
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Fix
Loosen the X gantry extrusion bolts on the extruder frame
Set extrusion parallel to lower frame by measuring from x extrusion to top of frame
Re-tighten the bolts.
Issue Three;
Symptom;
X Axis has right side catching or lagging/ canting as Z height moves causing bed leveling
to not repeat and layer thickness/height issues.

Adjustment procedure;
How to make X axis wheel adjustments to right guide bracket

Step One
Remove the belt by loosening tensioner

Step Two
Then pulling belt out of retainer groove

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Step Three
Unbolt the right-side bearing plate from cross arm.
(shown off printer for clarity)

Step Four
Adjust the eccentric wheel until the play just goes away.

As you move it up and down right vertical extrusion you should be able to lightly spin
each wheel with your fingers, while holding plate in place, but feel drag of it trying to
move assembly.
Photo step 4
Re attach and assemble in reverse order. See also X belt tensioning.
If problem is still there, check straightness of the two vertical extrusions. Also check if
top and side extrusions are square. Also see Z axis bind if this doesn’t resolve your issue.

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6.2.

X axis issues

X axis Belt under tensioned
Symptom;
Ghosting in X axis vertical face of prints.
Oval circles.
Corner over run

Option One.
Loosen the two smaller screws, push sideway with hand against idler arm, while
tightening first screw. Tighten both screws now. This should be enough tension to
properly operate. A plucking of belt should give a slight twang. Check that belt is running
in into the extrusion without rubbing on it. You may need to shim towards right end
between bracket and extrusion to square idler bearing to the extrusion.
Option Two, (Perform Option One first so you can print option two) print
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2986144

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7.

Y axis

7.1.

Y axis tuning

7.2.

Y axis belt tension

Y axis belt tension
Symptoms;
Evidence of ringing in vertical walls
Ghosting
oblong holes oval in Y plane
Option One

To tension Y axis you must loosen the four t-nut screws on either side of the y axis
extrusion. Pull or very lightly leverage tension on belt tightening one screw each side.
Move bed in and out. If belt not running true, you must adjust one of the two side plates
to get the belt running true in the middle of the extrusion.
Option Two (Perform Option One First)
Print thingiverse.com file https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2986144
And use tension ring to tighten belt until it is under moderate tension.
If belt not running true, shim between face of extrusion and the tensioner on the side
the belt is tracking towards.

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7.3.

Y axis eccentric nut adjustment

Y axis eccentric nut adjustment with pictures of what eccentric nuts look like.
Issue
Bed rollers not properly tensioned to v groove
Symptoms;
Too Loose;
Bed has excessive rock or wobble when gently rocking across X axis, bed leveling does
not repeat,
layer lines have waves in them.
Too Tight;
stepper straining, a pronounced flat spot develops on wheels when left un used for a
while. Type 1 bed skewed away from square in Y axis.
Fix;
Condition bed is Too Loose: Type 2
Tip machine up or lay on side. Use eccentric nuts (Shown exposed in photos below) on
the one side to adjust. Rotate first nut until it just stops excessive movement. Second
eccentric nut tightening till there is some resistance to turning rubber wheel while
holding carriage in place.
Condition bed is Too Loose; Type 1
Tip machine up or lay on side. Use eccentric nuts to adjust. Rotate first nut 1 or 3, until it
just stops excessive movement. Second eccentric nut, 2 or 4, tighten till there is some
resistance to turning rubber wheel while holding carriage in place. !! Warning over
tightening this outside wheel can and will cause bed to be skewed to the y axis.!! Do not
over tighten.!!
Too Tight;
Rotate both eccentrics till bed is loose to v grooves. Then use “Too loose” procedure to
set the eccentric
wheels".

Type1
First design offset wheel pattern.

Note the hand is tightening the compression nut, Not the E
ccentric nut.
Type 2 later production” fixed offset issue”

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This is eccentric nut (with wheel removed for clarity) in the fully tight position

This is the eccentric wheel in the fully loose position where through bolt is furthest away
from the fixed idler wheels (left side in photo).

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8.
8.1.

Z axis
Z axis binding issues

Z Shaft Alignment/Binding correction
Symptoms; Prints are too short/compressed in height, varying thickness of layers
throughout the part, occasionally Z axis motor clicking/skipping.

Procedure. You are now going to align the Z stepper motor to the Z drive screw. Support
X axis just off bed. Remove the Z rod from the coupler, using the top two grub screws.
Remover the 2 bolts holding the stepper motor to the frame. Now insert the shaft into the
stepper and measure the gap from bracket to the extrusion. A shim of that thickness
between stepper motor and frame is needed. List of shims and printable stepper holders
below.
If you currently are not able to print a solution, a nut put on both bolts in between the
stepper and the extrusion can temporarily reduce binding. Then you can print a shim to
fix properly.
Find the right shim thickness you need on www.thingiverse.com or here's a couple I
have found.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3124959,
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2526607,
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2925230,
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2907882
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3115362

Alternate methods
Option 1
If your bracket is bent so much that the shim does not fully correct this issue. You can
thru drill the bushing and bracket at 3mm, using longer 3mm screws and nyloc nuts, or
doubled nuts jammed together. Take till tight, then back off 1 turn. The 2 nut jam will be
hard to accomplish, but not all have access to nyloc 3mm nuts at home depot, so this
option is included.

Option two;
Remove the x gantry , strip all parts from bracket holding the z nut. Put bracket in vice
bending to 90` using a crescent wrench.

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9.
9.1.

X, Y and Z axis
Dust on roller wheels

Issue;
Dust on rails or roller wheels
Symptoms;
Dust or debris seen on wheels or rails
Fix
Option One
Do nothing but clean the offending dust off of printer. There is static electricty created
as wheels roll on the aluminum rails, which attracts dust.
Option Two
Check that wheels are adjusted properly on X and Y carriages. If Wheel damage is
verified, replace rollers and see Y bed cairrage wheel adjustment procedure for proper
adjustment guide.
This is authors Y carriage just before performing maintenance (adding dampeners) 2
months accumulation, no wheel wear noted.

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9.2.

X, Y and Z axis issues

9.2.1.
-

Why is axis X,Y,Z not homing with a home all?

The wire to the axis end stop is unplugged
The stepper motor is un plugged
On build X and E stepper reversed causing X to not be powered

9.2.2.

I have this weird pattern in the X or Y axis, what is
causing it?

Failed bearing, see picture of my personal bearing failure recently.

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10.

Suggested upgrades purchased or printed

10.1. Stepper dampeners

Stepper dampener installation series X Y E
Stepper dampeners; these are used to significantly reduce the electronic stepper noise
that is resonated through the aluminum extrusions. This guide will show how to install
on X Y and E axis. The E axis has the least effect on overall noise.
Note, for my installation I had to cut some screws down, as they were bottoming out
before tightening dampeners to the steppers. In the end, there were enough of the
shorter screws, that are displaced by going from 4 screws to 2, in all 3 axis to possibly
1not do this, but I did them one at a time, so realized it after the fact. Just know you may
need to adjust, purchase, or modify some screws.
Step one
Y axis
Step 1
To release tension on Y axis belt tensioner. Loosen the t nut screws that hold the 2 side
support brackets to the extrusion.

Step 2
Take belt off the stepper drive pulley. Remove pully off the stepper shaft using the 2
grub screws. Unbolt the 4 bolts of the stepper motor from the bracket.

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Step 3
Now mark the amount of material to remove from the Y frame.
**Alternate use a printed adjustable Y axis end stop mount.** This reduces available
bed surface in Y by a few mm. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:298746

Step 4
Cut out the excess material from the Y plate.
Extra style points for using a 3d printed sawzall blade handle to perform the cuts.

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Use 2 screws to attach dampener to the stepper motor (note: you may need to use
shorter screws if the stock ones bottom out or use Dremel to cut them down). Use 2
factory screws to mount dampener bracket to the stepper bracket. Then align pully to
the extrusion. You can re attach the tensioner loosely on other end to allow you to run
carriage in and out and check that belt is running in the proper position.

Step 5
Perform final tensioning of the Y belt. Taking care to make sure the belt does not try to
run off the side of pulley. You can use the side plate on the side that belt is moving
towards and add tension till it runs true.

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X axis stepper dampener installation
Step 1
Loosen the 2 screws that hold the plate of the X roller bearing support to take tension
off the belt.

Then remove one side of belt catch on the x axis trolley

Step 2

Now you are ready to remove the 4 screws holding the dust cover with x end stop off.
Have ahold of stepper as these through bolt holding it to the frame. You must remove
the QR code sticker to access screw heads.

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Step 3

Now loosen and remove the drive cog from the stepper and mount the stepper
dampener with the 2 screws to the stepper. Ensure the cover screws and the stepper
screws leave the stepper plug pointing away from printer when installed.
The author chose to use a temporary screw to hold the stepper in place while aligning
the drive cog and belt to the center of the extrusion, and tightening the 2 set screws.
Step 4

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Now remove temp screw and install 2 of the original 4 screws through the plastic end
stop housing and into the x stepper dampener. (end stop cable goes in from below, was
testing install before I re-routed it)
Step 5
Re-install the belt to carriage and use tensioner pully to re-tension the x axis belt.

E axis

First remove any filament from printer.
Now remove the screw that holds the idler bearing arm to the stepper
Caution, you are releasing the pressure on a compressed spring. Safety glasses would be
prudent. You can put a rag over it so it doesn’t fly, or use pliers to remove prior to the
arm removal.
Now undo last 3 bolts holding extruder drive frame and stepper on the bracket.

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Then bolt the dampener to the stepper motor. Orient so that stepper plug is pointed to
back of printer, and the dampener mount plate will be under the pivot arm bolt location
shown previously
Install the screw diagonal across from pivot arm to affix the extruder drive body to the
stepper.
Then install pivot screw. While compressing spring with arm. Alternately install arm,
then use pliers to put spring in place.
Install drive gear. You are now done.

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End of project check list
1. All end stops mounted and plugged in
2. All stepper motors wires are installed
3. All motion systems can reach, and touch end stops
4. All wires are back in restraints or looms
5. Test each axis before a home all
6. Enjoy your now significantly quieter printer.

10.2. Case fan
Issue
Case fan not running
Symptom;
Case fan observed to not be running when printer turned on.
Fix
The fan is only set by Creality to run when the software turns on the part cooling fan.
Option One
Do nothing as this was the factory design.
Option Two
Modification;
Unhook wires or fan from control board. Extend wires to run to the 24v terminals of the
power supply,
adding a fuse to protect against shorting.

10.3. Printable upgrades

11.

Software

11.1. Marlin firmware
11.1.1.

Why should I update Firmware?

Option 1
As shipped the Marlin version that Creality purchased shipped with High temperature
run away disabled. That is a fire hazard. Purchase boot loader to be able to flash
firmware with a safe Marlin version.
Option 2
Skip update, do not print un-attended.

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11.1.2.

My printer won't store the settings (e-steps) in the
eeprom.

What could be the problem?
You must have a bootloader to flash eeprom on an Ender 3. As shipped there is No
bootloader or way to set the eeprom through the serial port that is on the printer.

11.2. G code
11.2.1.

Start and End G code scripts

Their purpose. The start code rapidly purges filament as a nozzle cleaning exercise, to
prevent build up and clogging. The end code purpose is getting the nozzle off the part
and presenting the bed forward for print removal.
;Start gcode
M107 ;turn off fan
G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; home X, Y and Z axis end-stops
G0 X0 Y0 F9000 ; Go to front
G0 Z0.15 ; Drop to bed
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 X40 E45 F300 ; Extrude 25mm of filament in a 4cm line
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 E-1 F500 ; Retract a little
G04 S10 ;Dwell 8 seconds
G1 X80 F4000 ; Quickly wipe away from the filament line
G1 Z0.3 ; Raise and begin printing.
;End gcode
G91;
G1 F1800 E-3; retract filament
G1 F3000 Z10; move z 10mm above print finish height
G90;
G28 X0 ; home x
G1 F3000 Y200; bring bed forward
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M84 ; disable motors
M4 60000; dwell to cool hot end
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan

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11.2.2.

Estep 100mm advance gcode

What is an E step? This is the description of how many times the stepper motor on the
extruder must advance for 100mm of filament to be advanced. There is two methods that can
be used. First method is to remove the Bowden tube from the extruder. We will call this the
free air method. The second would be to do the test thru the heated extruder. The through the
extruder is done by marking the filament at 100 and 120 mm from the inlet to the extruder.
Then use the controller or gcode to advance 100mm of filament. Once done, you measure the
distance from the extruder to the 20mm mark to determine actual length advanced. You then
use the actual filament extruded in a formula, along with the current e step to calculate your
new E step value. Example using 87 mm advanced (100 commanded measured 33mm from
the 120mm mark, giving 87 actual distance traveled) and 98 for current e step; Formula
100/87 = 1.1494 x 98 = 112.64 so rounded off that’s a new e step of 113 steps.

Using the free air method, we will remove the Bowden tube and coupler from the extruder.
Run the filament just out of the extruder by hand and use flush cuts to cut it at face of
extruder. Now use the control panel to advance 100mm with hot end at temperature, as
extruder will not function when nozzle off. Or use this gcode put into a text editor and saved
as a .gcode file extension for use in the printer. Note if you use abl use your start g28/g29 in
place of whats provided here.
; 100mm gcode advancement program
G28 X0 Y0 Z0 ; HOME ALL AXIS
G90 ; ABSOLUTE POSITIONING
G92 E0 ; SET EXTRUDER TO ZERO VALUE
M92 E93 ; ***SET NEW E STEP *** (93 is factory value) (set new target value here once you
;have calculated your new estep, to run a test of the new value)
M190 S60 ;
M104 S215 ;
M109 ;
M82 ;
GO1 E100 F200; ADVANCE 100MM OF FILAMENT (***set to F50 if using the thru the hot
end method****)
M140 S0 ;
M104 S0 ;
G90 E0; Return to absolute positioning

Continued next page

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After extrusion stops, cut the filament in same location. Take the cut piece and measure its
length. Use 100/measured length x the current e step to calculate your new e step. Example;
we sent 100mm with an e step of 93mm the stock ender 3 value. Our cut length of material
was 86mm. So 100 / 86 is 1.1628 x93 equals a new e step of 108.13 or 108.
Ideology of each method. Free air is giving a direct linear advance without the restriction of
the hot end flow path. The slicer is designed to use linear value along with measured
diameter to calculate extruded volume in a part tool path. This method does not require you to
calculate e steps again if changing filament type. It is one and done, only to be re visited if
changing extruder or extruder drive gear. With this method any filament used will then be
tuned with the flow rate to optimal extrusion using a single wall test cube. Print the cube at .40
single wall, then measure and record 2 values from all 4 sides. Add them together and divide
by eight. Divide .40 by the resultant, and multipy that by 100 to give your new flow rate or
extrusion multiplier. Example test cube measurements avg to be .428 so we take .4/.428
which equals .934579 x 100 = 93.458 or 93% flow rate as your new value. Note: if you had
already been using a flow rate modifier, you would be at that % of the rate you were using.
Example was at 97% and the calculation comes to 92%. That’s 92% of 97% or 89% 97 x.92
is 89
In summary, the author prefers this method, as I never have to chase my e step, I can mark a
filament of any type with its flow % on the spools label, and just change it in slicer. Being able
to move through many materials at will.
Ideology of threw the nozzle method. When done with a given filament, the flow rate may be
left at 100% as you have tuned the e step to the current condition of the hot end and the
specific filament that you are running. There is no need for a flow test to be done once the e
step is set, unless conditions change.

11.3. Cura
11.3.1.

Cura settings

11.3.2.

Visually unpleasing diagonal linesU

Issue
Visually unpleasing diagonal lines on top or bottom layers of print.
Fix
Change infill pattern and or Shells/ TopBottomPattern/ to Concentric, line, or zig zag

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11.3.3.

Cura Combing settings related issue

Symptom;
Missing layers and wall defects.
Causes
It can be from combing. Disabling Combing and activating "Retract before outer wall can
get rid of the missing layers. Issue initially thought to be a clog with layer separation.
Massive under extrusion. See also nozzle clog or filament drag
Symptom;
Looks like extrusion set to .4mm layer with a .4mm nozzle. Filament size / looks like
under extrusion or z drag.
Cause
Reason/ fix go to Cura, the filament diameter is set at 2.8 from the initial printer model
you based the profile on. Change to 1.75 or measured filament diameter.

11.3.4.

Cura slicer bed origin settings Issue

Issue slicer bed origin settings \
Symptom
Parts do not align to bed from slicer, not able to use whole build surface. Initial set up of
Profile in Cura or another slicer.
There are two places that the Slicer needs information to properly orient your parts to
the bed.
First
In the machine settings section (Cura referenced, but all slicers will have something
similar)

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Set the machine dimensions at X235.0, Y235.0, Z250.0

Continued next page

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Second;
Under the extruder settings, in offset you need to set value for the nozzle sitting at
lower left corner of the bed. To find your number, home all, then use manual position
move with the controller. Or you can try the X0. Y2.5 that the authors stock Ender 3 set
up produced.

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11.3.5.

Cura concentric fill issue

Issue
Cura setting defaults to concentric fill
Symptom;
Holes in portions of top infill of test cube or other part.
Fix
Go to Cura/shells/topbottompattern/ select Line or Zig Zag instead of Concentric
Examples;

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12.

Print quality trouble shooting

A good guide is found at:

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

12.1. Under/over extrusion photo examples
To be added next revision placeholder

12.2. First layer / Bed adhesion
Question
Why is first layer so ugly/not sticking?
Answer
I could write a separate book on all the factors that can cause a poor first layer bond to
not stick. But I will take a swing at some commonly found issues that people new to the
hobby, and some veterans fall victim to.
1. Oils from your hands. This to a polymer is like putting Crisco oil on a frying pan
and trying to get something to stick........Use Isopropyl Alcohol, 70 to 94 %.
Author prefers 94 % as the water percentage is less to evaporate before printing
may commence after cleaning. Some removable surfaces like glass, borosilicate,
PEI, glue or hairspray on many of these previous, Build Tack, Kapton tape, and
blue painters tape. All these have different methods to clean or prepare for a
new print.
2. Bed temperature that is above the glass transition temperature of the filament.
These are technical words that boil down to, do not exceed bed temperatures
that are generally recommended by the community or manufactures for a given
polymer, and expect that being hotter will not necessarily give better results.
3. Nozzle height from bed surface, this is often referred to as needing releveled......adjusting height is not leveling, If you are too far from the nozzle to
bed, it will have a negative effect on trying extrude material with adhesion.
4. Using a bed material that is not compatible with a given filament, too many
variables to list here. See YouTube and google for recommended compatibility.
5. Mechanical issues such as bed is trammed to be level, but the x arm and bed are
not on same plane after a positional move, so now it's too high, low, or skewed
to get an even first layer for the part.
6. Material is Hygroscopic, another big word. This means it can collect moisture
from the air around the filament. This causes steam while extruding that causes
uneven flow, bubbling, and often very poor adhesion factor compared to a dry
sample of the material.

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7. We covered cleaning hand oils, so for those who are a Houdini and do not touch
the bed, or who knows use gloves. The bed still needs cleaned of dust and
remnants of prior prints each break between parts. Or an application of any
agents used to assist in the bonding process.
8. Glues, some glues do very well in assisting adhesion. But others or even good
ones, can have a cure time while they off gas water and certain chemicals that
before the surface is cured, working against adhesion.
9. Place holder, because I assure you there is more..........

13.

You tube video’s

Videos about Ender 3 to watch
Not every one has time, but the author learned much of his 3d printing knowledge from
YT videos. Try to be specific in topic you want to study when searching.
7 easy 3D printed upgrades for your Ender 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq2IKp3jeaY
7 more easy 3D printed upgrades for your Ender 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxopTyCCkOU
Fixing a Filament Flow Problem on CR-10 mini, CR-10 or Ender 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x35aWmnZ_A0&app=desktop
Fixing a Filament Flow Problem on CR-10 mini, CR-10 or Ender3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x35aWmnZ_A0&app=desktop
updating firmware without a bootloader
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZVTYpHnpIw&feature=youtu.be
building video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHHxkOULP5Q&feature=youtu.be
Nerys ender 3 misc videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffVe-Ir0La0&t=
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fn9vo2XiqLY&t=63s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dTmKPZA0dw&t=14369s
easy live leveling
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=gkZUAyTxU1Q&app=desktop
un boxing and assembly guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=Fzc_e51vIIA&app=desktop
bootloader and firmware update
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIl5X2ffdyo&feature=youtu.be
bed leveling
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZRY6kunAvs
ABL usage demo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5iH3y20MQE
Print quality trouble shooting

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

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