Instructions CPS2 Multi Boot V2

User Manual:

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CPS2 Multi Boot!!!
Finally this long awaited project has come to an end and all the CPS2 fans will be able to play
all the CPS2 games using just a single CPS2 Setup. It's been months of work and testing so I
really hope you enjoy it as much as I did building it.
In order to make this work, you'll need to have a suicided CPS2 set, that means both A+B
Boards. The B Board, which is where the roms are, needs to be opened and the kit is
installed inside.
You can open the B Board with a TORX T20 bit. There is also a full tutorial from Mitsurugi-w
here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HExwzQlxrQ4
FIRST STEP
The first that you need to do is to remove all the socketed Eproms and mask roms that are
installed in the sockets. When you remove it, it will reveal some numbers. See picture below
of eproms and mask roms to be removed (Red are the sockets, don't try to remove that :)
Make sure that you have a battery-less B Board. We won't support anyone asking for
information about how to kill a working PCB. Look a little bit around the internet, there are
plenty of suicided B boards available.
SECOND STEP
Now you need to check the Jumper configuration of your PCB. This kit works with the
following configuration which is the highest possible:
SOOS SO OSOSOS SOSOSOSO SOSOSOSO (S=Short, O=Open)
To check the location of the Jumpers, please see here:
http://wiki.pcbotaku.com/wiki/CPS2_Eprom_and_Jumper_details
You can try with a tester in continuity mode (makes beep if two points are electrically
connected). If you hear a beep, then it's Short.
If any of the jumpers is not properly installed you may need to cut the contact or solder a
small point to make continuity.
THIRD STEP
You need to look now at your PAL3 chip. It's a 20 pin chip that is marked in the picture from
above in green (bottom center). You need to look at the revision of your board (center-right),
just below the yellow marked Graphic Roms. In this case, it's a 93646B-7, so revision 7.
This kit only works with PAL F+cable or PAL G. If you don't have that PAL, try to get it from
someone on the forums or you can get it from us as well. From us you'll only get the PAL G,
which is the best one.
If you have a revision 3 or 4 B Board, then you need to add an extra cable that goes from pin9
of PAL3 to pin C13 on connector CN3(If your using the G pal then the wire link needs to go to
pin 9, if your using the F pal then it goes to pin 7).
To make your life easier, instead of having to solder into pin C13 on connector CN3, I've
provided a pin already available in the Multi boot where it should be plugged in. This pin is
located at position J17 in the lower center part of the bigger board. See below:
If you have a revision 5 or above, you'd be ok with a PAL G or a PAL F+Cable.
If you already have a PAL F, you have to lift pin 7 of PAL 3 so that doesn't go into the socket
and doesn't make contact and solder a jumper wire into the pin J17 that I explained for
revision 3 and 4.
See pictures here and below:
http://ikotsu.blogspot.com/2010/01/progear-capcom-cps2-cavecapcom-2001.html
FORTH STEP
Once your PCB is romless and you have the right jumper and PAL configuration, you can now
proceed to install the two PCBs that you should have received with your package. The two
PCBs will end up joined together by a small 3rd PCB.
IMPORTANT! When installing the PCBs you should do it gently, making sure first that
everything is properly aligned and then start pushing gently until all the pins are inserted
inside the ROM socket. It should look like this:
This is what you'll receive.
First, proceed to install the smaller PCB. Check that the PCB is placed as in the picture
below. First just lay it, to make sure all the pins are in the right place.
Now, start pushing them gently by each corner and also in the middle, look at the pins while
you push to make sure everything goes gently in the right place and you don't bend any pins.
It should look like this once installed:
Now you can proceed to installing the big PCB. First make sure that it has arrived undamaged
to you. It is important that no pins have been bent. Notice that only the top of the pin should
go inside. This is the part marked in red.
The first thing is to align the white connectors with the ones in the B Board like you can see
below. Again you need to carefully look at the pins while you insert them in the Eprom socket
to make sure that everything is aligned and the pins insert in the right place.
Now start pushing gently the PCB into the sockets making sure that all of them fall into the
right place.If unsure remove it and insert again. IT will look like this:
Your kit should now look like this:
Now you can proceed to insert the tiny PCB that joins these two PCBs together.
Make sure that the ЯU sign is facing upwards as it's shown in the picture below:
Your kit also includes an LCD screen module with 3 buttons to choose which game to load.
The buttons and the cable are connected to the bigger PCB's 14-pin socket and you can take
that cable outside the B Board case through the register opening in one of the sides.
You will be able to change games with the lid closed.
Now using left, right an OK buttons you can choose which game to load. You'll see a progress
bar and once the uploading process is complete, you'll see a message prompting you to
reset. Now power cycle the cabinet and your recently loaded game will boot.
IMPORTANT: Due to a last minute change, the lid will not close unless one of the legs of the
B Board lid is removed. I know we stated that it will close as it is, but we were afraid of the
consistency of the PCB with an opening there. We apologize for that.
If you want to close the lid, you just need to cut one of the supporting legs of the lid. As you
can see in the pictures below. You can use a knife like this one. Make sure you do the cutting
gently and without rush or you can break the lid.
So it will end up like this:
In order to have also auto reset feature, you need to solder a cable between the SWD5 “dot” in the
CPS2Multi which can be seen below and the pin B28 of CN1 connector in the B Board.
Now you should prepare your MicroSD to work with your kit.
You need to get the latest romset from your usual source.
This latest available at 31/05/2015 is this one:
https://mega.nz/#!RgxEmY5D!GF5qK8hBl2PcJQWC0_FJtvfAjtEklQNLBYhd_qb5jlQ
Make sure you use a branded MicroSD, preferably Class 4 from Samsung, which work very
well. See below:
Most of the issues with the games not loading come from using a cheap card or not properly
formated. We don't recommend to use a Mac to copy the files, but if you do, make sure you
eject the card “to be used with windows”.
If even after that you see a yellow or purple screen only after loading, you probably need to
reset the board properly. Make sure you make a shortcut at position EXC5 which are 3 pins
on the B Board right where the battery was but on the other side. Obviously do this without
powering the B-board.
I trust this kit will give you hours and hours of fun, so enjoy!
Darksoft and Mitsurugi-w

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