Presentation Manual AR2 Robot Arm Assembly

User Manual:

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Page Count: 67

Model AR2

Assembly Manual

Mechanical Unit Assembly

Manual 1

NOTE:

This manual shows the construction of the AR2 robot using aluminum for the

primary structural components, and plastic for the belt covers and spacer

components. Use Loctite on all screws during assembly process.

This robot can also be constructed using 3D printed components. The .stl print

files for all components can be found on the project page. The construction

illustrated in this manual is the same using either aluminum or 3D printed

components - note the following details if using 3D printed components:

•3D printed components require all threaded holes to be cleared with

appropriate drill size and then tapped.

•All printed components were printed at minimum 50% solid with the

exception of any drive spindles and tension rings which were printed at

90%+ solid. Parts were printed at 2mm layer height and thick shells.

•The J1 baseplate, J1 baseplate spacer and J2 arm larger than most 3D printer

beds and therefore are printed in 2 pieces and require being epoxied

together.

•The printed design calls for additional reinforcements to be epoxide in place

around the J1 base and at the base of the J2 arm (see details at the end of

this manual)

•You will need to cut and drill aluminum tubing as shown in BOM section of

this manual.

BEARING FIT:

The CAD models for the AR2 robot are sized for a slight press fit on all bearing

and race diameters. The assembly steps in this manual also reference pressing

the bearings and races in place. Given customer feedback and the fact that most

don’t have access to a quality bearing press or hardware we have tried to make

sure the aluminum kits we offer are closer to a slip fit. If bearings get improperly

wedged or tilted and then attempt to press, severe damage can occur. Given the

opportunity for bearings to jam and permanently damage to occur we have

opted to try and provide kits that error on the side of a looser fit to avoid part

damage and frustration. If the tolerance stack up on your components results in

a race that can slightly spin please use a small strip of shim stock or wax paper

to alleviate any movement. A small dab of epoxy can also be used.

The bearing oil that comes on bearings should be sufficient lubrication given

the low speed and pressure of the robot joints. If additional lubrication is

needed a very small about of white lithium grease is recommended.

BILL OF MATERIALS

Structural Components

Parts shown are made from aluminum but you can also 3D print the

structural components if you are building a fully 3D printed robot.

(see note below on J4 main shaft as this part cannot be 3D printed)

J1 BASE PLATE J1 TURRET HOUSING

J1 SPINDLE J1 PLATFORM

J2 TURRET HOUSING J2 ARM

J2 DRIVE SPINDE J2 TENSION RING

J1 & J3 MOTOR MOUNT J2 MOTOR SUPPORT

J3 BEARING CUP J3 SPINDLE

J3 SPINDLE RETAINER J4 TURRET HOUSING

J4 MAIN SHAFT

(see note below on making your own J4

main shaft if you are not using aluminum

parts kit and are 3D printing your robot)

J5 MOTOR MOUNT

J4 TIMING HUB J4 MOTOR MOUNT

J5 HOUSING J5 BELT CARRIER & J5 BELT CARRIER

CLAMP

J5 BEARING POST J5 IDLER TENSION BLOCK

J6 MAIN BEARING ARM J6 HOUSING SINGLE PIECE

J6 BEARING CAP J6 GRIPPER MOUNT

Note on J4 Main Shaft: If you are building a 3D printed robot and do not have aluminum

parts you will need to purchase a length of aluminum tubing, cut and drill as shown in this

drawing.

3D Printed Covers and

Spacers

J1 BASE SUPPORT SPACER PART 1 J1 BASE SUPPORT SPACER PART 2

J2 ARM COVER SPACER (x2) J2 SIDE COVER (x2)

J5 SIDE COVER CAP J5 SIDE COVER

J5 SIDE COVER SPACER (x2) J6 LIMIT SWITCH TIP

Stepper Motors

Geared and linear stepper motors as well as stepper

drivers are available from Stepper Online

http://www.omc-stepperonline.com/

J1 motor

SKU: 17HS15-1684S-HG20

J2 motor

SKU: 23HS22-2804S-HG50

J3 motor

SKU: 17HS15-1684S-HG50

J4 motor

SKU: 11HS20-0674S-PG14

J5 motor

SKU: 17LS19-1684E-200G

J6 motor

SKU: 14HS13-0804S-PG19

J4 bracket

SKU: ST-M3

Hardware Components

Qty. (2) for J1 bearings - Amazon Qty. (2) for J2 bearings - Amazon

Qty. (1) for J3 bearing - Amazon

Qty. (1) 35mm thrust bearing and washer

set for J3 - Amazon

Qty.(3) 1” thrust bearings (2 for J4 and 1

for J6) –McMaster Carr Qty.(4) (3 for J4 and 1 for J6) –McMaster

Carr

Qty. (1) for J5 belt idler - Amazon

Qty.(1) set of 10 shafts (you only need 2) -

Amazon

Qty.(2) (1 for J4 and 1 for J6) –McMaster

Carr

Qty.(2) for J4 bearings - Amazon

Qty.(1) set of 8 bearings (you only need 4)

- Amazon

Qty.(1) set of 10 8x16x5mm bearings (you

only need 1) - Amazon

Qty.(1) for J6 bearing - Amazon

Qty. (1) J1 belt - Amazon (2’ length) J3 chain – McMaster Carr

Qty.(1) link for J3 – McMaster Carr

Qty.(1) J4 belt – Amazon

Qty.(1) J5 belt – Amazon Qty.(1) driven pulley for J1 – Amazon

Qty.(2) 15 tooth 8mm bore sprocket (1 for

J1 and 1 for J6) - Ebay Qty.(1) for J4 - Ebay

Qty.(2) for J3 chain – McMaster Carr

Qty.(1) McMaster Carr

Aluminum parts kit comes with this tube

Qty.(1) – McMaster Carr

M3x10 SET SCREW

M3x14 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS

M3x18 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS

M3x20 FLAT HEAD SCREWS

M3x25 SOCKET HEAD SCREWS

M3x3 SET SCREW

M3x4 SET SCREW

M3x5 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW

M3x6 SET SCREW

M3x8 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW

M4 nuts

M4 washers

M4x10 FLAT HEAD SCREWS

M4x10 SET SCREWS

M4x10 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS

M4x14 FLAT HEAD SCREW

M4x18 FLAT HEAD SCREW

M4x20 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS

M4x35 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS (fully threaded)

M4x5 SET SCREWS

M6x14 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS

M6x18 FLAT HEAD SCREWS

M6x20 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS

M8x25 SQUARE HEAD

Gripper & Switches

Pneumatic Gripper – Ebay (used)

24vdc Solenoid to actuate gripper – Amazon

NOTE: solenoid valves tend to interrupt the serial connection to the Arduino if

located too close. If you find Arduino losing connection when valve actuates

install a flyover diode across solenoid terminals (reverse bias).

Qty.(1 switch) – Amazon

Qty.(5 switches) – Amazon

ASSEMBLY

Cut motor pigtails and attach JST

connectors to each of the 6 motors as

shown in section 4 of the wiring harness

manual.

Fabricate 6 limit switch pigtails with JST

connectors as shown in section 3 of the

wiring harness manual.

Press (x2) #32009 bearing races into the

J1 turret housing. If you do not have

access to a press place turret housing in

oven @ 350° and bearing races in

freezer for 60 minutes, quickly remove

housing from oven – the cold races will

drop into the expanded housing. (you will

need to do this for both races one at a

time)

Install #32009 bearing on J1 spindle as

shown.

Insert J1 spindle into turret housing then

install the other #32009 bearing on top

side of spindle. (note location of flat on

housing)

Press (x2) #30206 bearing races into the J2

turret housing. If you do not have access to

a press place turret housing in oven @ 350°

and bearing races in freezer for 60 minutes,

quickly remove housing from oven – the cold

races will drop into the expanded housing.

(you will need to do this for both races one at

a time)

Use abrasive saw to cut square M8

screw down as shown leaving approx

8mm of threads remaining.

Install square head M8 screw into J1

turret platform as shown – make sure

square head is tangent to center bolt

circle as indicated by dashed line in

picture.

Secure J2 turret housing to J1 platform

using (x6) M8x18 flat head screws. Install (x2) M6 x 20 socket head screws

in front of J2 turret housing going into the

J1 platform.

Install platform assembly onto J1 spindle

assembly and secure with (x8) M6 X 14

socket head cap screws.

Install (4) M4 x 10 set screws in the 4

perimeter holes in the platform. These

place tension on the upper bearing.

Snug the 4 set screws down evenly until

there is no play in the bearings.

Mount J2 limit switch to J2 housing

using (x2) M3x14 socket head cap

screws.

Install the J1 assembly onto the J1 base

as shown. Make sure the flat

surface with 2 holes is facing toward the

back.

Secure J1 assembly from the bottom

using (x8) M4x10 socket head cap

screws.

Mount J1 limit switch to J1 housing

using (x2) M3x14 socket head cap

screws.

Install the J1 driven sprocket onto the J1

spindle and secure with (x4) M6x14

socket head cap screws.

Install J1 motor mount onto J1 motor

using (x4) M4x10 flat head screws and

then Install XL15 tooth 8mm bore drive

sprocket on J1 gear motor shaft.

NOTE: you can broach pulley for keyway or

remove key from motor shaft with pliers or vise

grip and use setscrew.

Install motor assembly onto base and

secure with (4) 4mm X 20 socket head

cap screws and (4) 4mm washers. Make

sure (2) 3mm tension holes located on

ends of slots are facing toward back.

(note this picture was taken with a

prototype slotted J1 baseplate – print

files and future parts will have fixed

mounting holes in J1 baseplate – new

pictures will be taken)

Tension J1 belt using (x2) M3x10 set

screws in rear of motor mount slots.

(note this picture was taken with a

prototype slotted J1 baseplate – print

files and future parts will have fixed

mounting holes in J1 baseplate – new

pictures will be taken)

Place J1 baseplate on top of plastic

spacer (they are aligned with 4mm dowel

pins) then use 4 screws or bolts to mount

robot to benchtop or surface of your

choosing.

Install J2 spindle into J2 arm and secure

using (x8) M4x10 flat head screws. Make

sure keyway is aligned in the up position.

NOTE: when installing the J2 spindle the

2 mounting holes for the J3 limit switch

should be on right side as shown.

Install #30206 bearing onto J2 spindle

as shown.

Install M3x10 set screw into J2 spindle

as shown but do not thread through to

keyway yet.

Install J2 arm assembly into J2 turret

housing and then install the other #30206

bearing from opposite side as shown.

Install the J2 tension ring and secure

with (6) M3 x 10 flat head screws. Note

orientation – tension ring is 90° to the J2

arm.

Install and snug (x4) M4x5 screws until

there is no play in J2 bearings.

Remove (x4) M4 cap screws from the J2

motor gearbox as shown. Remove the top of the gearbox as

shown.

Install the J2 motor support plate over

the gearbox housing as shown. Reinstall the top of the J2 gearbox and

re-secure with M4 cap screws. (make

sure the key is in the up position as

shown)

Insert J2 motor shaft into the J2 spindle

as shown. Secure J2 motor support to J1 platform

using (x3) M6x18 flat head screws.

One at a time remove the factory M4x10

cap screws from J2 motor mount.

Replace factory screw with M4x35 fully

threaded cap screw. Place (x4) 4mm

washers between gearbox and J2 motor

support then secure with 4mm washer and

nut as shown. (repeat this process for all 4

motor screws)

NOTE: depending on combined variance in

washer thickness and J2 bearing stack

height you may need 4 or 5 washers.

(pictures in this manual may show only 2 or

3 washers due to original construction)

Install and snug M6x20 cap screw in J2

motor support plate.

NOTE: do not overtighten and deform

gear box. This only needs to be tight

enough to locate gearbox radially and

prevent it from rotating.

Tighten M3x10 set screw through access

hole in J2 turret housing as shown.

Install J3 motor mount onto J3 motor

using (x4) M4x10 flat head screws. The 13 tooth 8mm bore sprockets must

be drilled and tapped to accept a 4mm

set screw. Use a 3.3mm (#29) drill to

drill 2 holes in each sprocket.

(holes should be 90 from each other)

Use 4mm tap to thread (2) holes in each

sprocket (total 4 holes)

Install sprocket on to J3 motor shaft and

tighten (x2) M4x5 set screws.

Install J3 motor onto J2 arm and secure

with (x4) M4x20 socket head cap screws. Mount J3 limit switch to J2 arm using

(x2) M3x14 socket head cap screws.

Press (1) #30204 bearing race into the

J3 bearing cup.

Secure J3 bearing cup and race to end of

J2 arm using (6) M3 x 25 flat head

screws.

Use abrasive saw to cut length of 8mm

keyed shaft – length should be between

50mm & 53mm long.

Use abrasive saw to cut length of 2mm

keyed stock to 25mm long.

Install 8mm shaft into J3 spindle. Install

2mm key stock into shaft and spindle slot

and secure with 3mm x 4 set screw.

Install 35x52x4 thrust bearing and

washers onto J3 spindle.

Install #30204 bearing as shown. Install J3 spindle and shaft into J2 arm –

slide spindle into #30204 bearing.

Install J3 spindle retainer. Secure with (4)

M3 x 10 flat head screws. Tension

screws so there is no play in bearings.

Install one sprocket on the J3 spindle

Shaft and secure with (x2) M4x5 set

screws.

Cut length of 04B roller chain down to

20-3/4” long (52.7 cm). It should have 43

links.

Install master link in 04B roller chain.

Install chain around J3 and motor

sprockets. Leave J3 motor mount screws barely

snug so motor can still slide and then

install (x2) M3x14 cap screws into lower

holes on motor mount and then tighten to

tension the chain. (these M3 screws will

push against the lower motor mount

screws)

Once chain has good tension tighten all 4

of the J3 motor mount cap screws. Press (2) B-1616 (1” ID) needle roller

bearings into the J3 turret housing (install

one each side).

Secure turret housing to J3 spindle using

(x2) M4x14 flat head screws (center)

And (x4) M4x10 cap screws (outer).

Install (1) M3x5 socket head cap screw

into motor housing.

Note: this screw serves as a timing lug

for J4.

Secure J5 linear screw motor to J5 motor

mount using (4) M3 x18 socket head cap

screws.

Insert J4 main shaft as shown. Note the

single hole in end of shaft must align with

set screw hole in J5 motor mount

opposite the M3 timing lug.

Install M4x10 set screw as shown –

make sure set screw aligns and screws

into hole in shaft – note when looking

down tube you should be able to see the

head of set screw just poking through

tube.

Install and snug one more M4 set screw

in housing in next hole 90° to the set

screw in the previous step.

Install (x1) .032” thick bearing washer

over tube and into motor mount as

shown.

Install (x1) 1” ID needle bearing over

tube and into motor mount as shown.

Install (1) .032” bearing washer over tube

and on top of needle bearing as shown.

Insert J5 Motor shaft assembly into J3

turret housing as shown.

Pre install (x4) M4x5 set screws in back

side of J4 timing hub.

NOTE: this manual shows the use of a

3D printed timing hub – the kit provided

on the website now includes an

aluminum timing hub.

Install (x1) .032” bearing washer into

timing hub as shown.

Install (x1) 1” ID needle bearing into

timing hub. Install (1) .126” thick bearing washer on

top of thrust bearing as shown.

Install J4 timing hub and bearings into J4

shaft. Make sure M4 threaded hole in

timing hub aligns with 2nd hole in shaft.

Install (x4) M4x5 set screws around

perimeter of timing hub. Make sure set

screws on 2 sides seat into 2 holes in J4

shaft. You should be able to see head of

set screw slightly protrude on inside of

shaft.

Tighten (x4) M4x5 set screws in face of

timing hub to set tension on J4 bearings. Install J4 motor mount / limit switch

contact block as shown and secure with

(x3) M4x10 socket head cap screws.

Install Nema11 motor mount bracket and

secure with (x4) M3x14 socket head cap

screws.

Install J4 motor into bracket and

secure with (4) M3x8 socket head cap

screws.

Slide XL 10 tooth 6mm bore drive pulley onto

motor shaft along with 84XL037 timing belt

simultaneously over J4 driven sprocket.

(the belt in these instructions happens to be

clear but depending on source will likely be

black)

When belt and pulley are fully seated

tighten set screw on pulley making sure

set screw is aligned with flat on motor

shaft.

Countersink the 3 holes in POM nut

(supplied with linear motor) . Install POM nut into the J5 carrier.

secure with (3) M3x10 flat head screws.

Note: If additional belt tension is required

you can place shims between bracket and

aluminum. In this example 4mm nuts are

placed between bracket to provide tension.

Install (x4) LM3UU 3mm linear bearings

into J5 carrier. Note: I left them

protruding by 2mm to increase overall

support width (the carrier will experience

significant side load) If building a 3D

printed version I would advise using

epoxy to also secure bearing into carrier.

Secure bearings with (x4) M3x4 set

screws.

Use abrasive saw to cut (2) 3mm linear

rods down to 85mm length.

Install (2) 3mm liner rods into J5 housing

and through the J5 carrier bearings as

shown.

NOTE ON 3mm ROD DIAMETER

The diameter of the 3mm rod can vary slightly depending on

suppliers. Measure you rods and make sure they are approx. 2.98mm

in diameter and that the 3mm bearings slide on to them easily.

DO NOT FORCE BEARINGS ONTO ROD

If you find your rods are slightly larger – approx. 3.04mm this is easily

fixed using a drill press, sand paper and scotch-brite. Chuck rod into

drill and then evenly polish with 500 or larger grit paper. Check

diameter carefully along entire length of shaft then polish thoroughly

with scotch-brite. This process only takes a few minutes but its

important that the rods are not tight or forced into bearings. The

rods should measure approx. 2.98mm

Temporarily install M4x20 cap screw fully

threaded into hole as shown (this will

prevent 3mm rod from going too deep

and blocking hole) then finish sliding

3mm rods into place.

Secure both 3mm rods using (x2) M3x6

set screws – one from the top and one

from the bottom. Then remove the M4

cap screw. (Don’t forget to apply grease

to 3mm rods and bearings)

Install J5 idler tension block and secure

with (2) M3x8 socket head cap screws.

Install HK1612 bearing over the J5

bearing post as shown.

Then install J5 bearing and post into

tension block and secure with (x1)

M4x10 socket head cap screw.

Press 688Z 8x16x5mm bearing in end of

J5 housing.

secure with (x2) M3x6 set screws from

each side.

Spin J5 housing assembly onto J5 drive

screw as shown.

Slide J5 housing assembly forward onto

J4 main tube.

Install M3x6 set screw and secure J5

housing into tube.

Secure limit switch to J3 turret housing

using (x2) M3x14 socket head cap

screws.

Press #30203 taper roller bearing race

into J5 main bearing support arm.

Secure J6 main bearing arm to J5

housing using (x6) M4x18 flat head

screws.

Install J5 limit switch into slot on J6

bearing support arm as shown.

Manually rotate the screw shaft on the J5

motor until the J5 belt carrier is all the

way to the end of its stroke as shown.

With carrier at the end of its stroke

carefully adjust limit switch so that switch

wheel contacts carrier clicks when carrier

is forward.

Install and snug (x2) M4x10 set screws

to secure switch in place-be careful not

to overtighten (do not damage switch).

Rotate J5 motor shaft forward back to

make sure limit switch clicks when carrier

is in the forward position and adjust

switch position as necessary.

Install #30203 taper bearing onto J6

housing side post.

Note: If building 3D printed robot Use

epoxy to secure J6 drive post to J6

housing as they are printed in 2 pieces.

Install (x1) .126” thick bearing washer

into J6 bearing cap.

Install (1) 1” ID needle bearing into J6

bearing cap.

Install (1) .032” bearing washer into J6

bearing cap on top of bearings.

Install J6 motor bearing assembly into

bearing support arm with J6 cap

assembly on opposite side and secure

with (x1) M6x14 socket head cap screw.

Install (x6) M4x5 set screws in

perimeter of bearing cap and set tension

against needle bearings so there is no

play in J6 motor assembly.

Install J6 motor into J6 housing as shown

and secure with (4) M3x3 set screws.

You may need to grind down the upper

left screw so it doesn’t keep the J6 limit

switch from sitting flat. Note that motor

pigtail is in the up position.

Insert (x1) M4x10 socket head cap screw

into shoulder of gripper mount. (this will

be the contact for the J6 limit switch)

Secure J6 gripper mount to SMC MFH2-

8D1 gripper using (x2) M4x10 socket

head cap screws.

Install gripper mount over J6 motor shaft

and secure with (x2) M4x10 set screws.

Install plastic J5 side cover and Install (1)

XL15 tooth –8mm bore drive sprocket on

J6 spindle shaft as shown but do not

tighten set screws yet.

Use 3mm drill to create small hole in

center of 150XL037 belt, Adjust J5 idler tension block so that belt

just barely too tight to fit and tighten

mounting screws.

Belt should be just barely too tight so that

you cant slip it over the idler bearing.

Note: when using 3D printed

components you may not be able to get

the belt this tight.

Loosed bearing post mounting screw so

that post tips back and belt can now slide

onto bearing. Now tighten post mounting

screw – this should now result in a very

tight belt adjustment.

When using 3D printed components the M4

screws do not have the holding force to

keep tension on the belt under load.

Place a small drop of super glue around

the heads of the M4 screws securing the

head of the screw to the tension block.

(if disassembled or tension needs to be

reset bond will need to be broken and a

new tension block installed)

Install (x1) M3x8 set screw through belt

and J5 carrier clamp as shown and

tighten to clamp belt to carrier.

Rotate J5 motor shaft until belt carrier is

to the top of its stroke and you can feel

the J5 limit switch click or make contact.

Use angle gauge and rotate J6 housing

until housing is at 105°

Once J5 limit switch is clicked and

housing is at 105° tighten the pulley set

screws as shown.

Install J5 side spacers and cover cap as

shown. Secure to J5 housing with (8)

M3x25 flat head screws.(these go

through the cap, spacer and side plate

and then thread into the J5 housing)

Secure the cover & spacer to the side

plate on the front using (6) M3x20 flat

head screws. (these thread into shallow

threads on the plastic side plate)

Apply grease to chain and then Install the

J2 side cover spacers and caps using

(x16) M3x25 socket head cap screws.

Epoxy J6 limit switch arm tip to J6 limit

switch as shown. (make sure it remains

flat and fully seated while epoxy cures)

Install J6 limit switch onto J6 housing as

shown using (x2) M3x14 socket head

cap screws.

Install jaws of your own design/choosing

– the jaws pictures were 3D printed but

jaws can be made of any material.

If you are building a 3D printed version

use epoxy to attach (x6) auxiliary support

braces evenly spaced around J1 turret

for added rigidity.

If you are building a 3D printed version

use epoxy to attach J2 auxiliary support

brace as shown for added rigidity.

Mechanical assembly of the robot is now

complete. Please review the wiring

harness, electrical enclosure and startup

manuals to complete robot build.

Presentation Manual AR2 Robot Arm Assembly

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