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REPAIR MANUAL

ZT18542

ZT2350

Swisher Mower Co

Warrensburg, MO

For additional assistance on service

Contact Swisher Mower Co., Inc.

Phone 1-800-222-8183

Fax 1-660-747-8650

E-mail cust.serv@swisherinc.com

This manual was produced at the beginning of

our 2006 production. It was specifically

written for those models built after January,

2006. For those models built before that time

refer to the owners manuals for specific parts or

call the Swisher Mower factory for assistance.

For warranty issues or ordering parts for

the engines or the hydro units, contact the

authorized dealer in your area.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. If engine won’t crank

2. If engine won’t crank - continued

Battery ground connection at engine

3. Engine cranks but won’t start

Engine stalls when PTO is engaged

4. If PTO clutch will not engage

5. Wiring diagram

Hour meter not operating

6. Wire identification at switches

7. Wire identification on ZT18542

8. Wire identification on ZT2350

9. Carburetor fuel solenoid

10. Battery charging systems

11. Adjusting the drive controls

12. Tracking adjustments

13. Replacement of the hydro unit

14. Repairing or replacing the blade driver

15. Belt replacement routing

IF ENGINE WON’T CRANK

ALWAYS CHECK FUSE FIRST

TEST #1

Using a remote starter switch or a suitable device,

make a connection between the large terminals on

the solenoid. If engine does not crank!!!

•Battery may be weak or dead

•Starter may be bad

•Battery cables may have bad connections

•Do not go to Test #2 until this test gives results

TEST #2

If engine did crank in test #1, disconnect green wire at

spade connector and apply positive voltage from the

battery to the primary wire on the solenoid. Make sure

the one with the eyelet is grounded. If engine doesn’t

crank now, replace the solenoid.Remember, all other

tests are useless unless these two tests make the

engine turn over.

TEST #3

If engine did crank in the first part of test #2, reconnect

green wire to solenoid. Make sure the drive controls are

out in neutral position. Using a jumper wire attached to

the positive terminal of the battery, apply 12 volts to

the red wire on terminal B of the ignition switch. Try to

crank, using the ignition switch. If engine cranks, the

fuse or the fuse holder, or related wiring is defective

somewhere back to the solenoid.

TEST #4

If engine did not crank in test #3, make sure the drive

controls are in neutral position. This time move the

jumper wire attached to the positive terminal of the

battery, to the green wire on S terminal of the ignition

switch. If all components in the circuit are working, the

engine should crank. If it doesn’t, move on to next test.

1

2

A neutral switch is located at the lower end of both

drive control handles and is activated when the handles

are outward in the neutral position. Check that the

plunger buttons on both switches are depressed at least

3/8 inch. Loosening the two mounting screws and

sliding the switch to the side can adjust these.

Ohmmeter should go to zero when checking continuity

across switch terminals with plungers depressed.

With PTO switch in the

off position, meter should

go to zero when checking

continuity across these

two terminals.

If any of the switches in this circuit tested bad, install a

new one and perform Test #4 again. If all switches are

good, a connecting wire must be at fault. Don’t move

past Test #4 until it assures a good circuit. When you do

get good results, hook all wires back to original position

and try the ignition switch again. If no results, you will

need to replace the ignition switch.

This panel is located

right in front of the

battery. It is accessible

by removing the plate

below the front edge of

the seat.

Negative battery ground on ZT2350Negative battery ground on ZT18542

BATTERY GROUND CONNECTION AT ENGINE

ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON’T START

Checks for electrical problems

•While turning ignition switch to its first position, listen for the fuel solenoid on the

carburetor to click. It must click to supply fuel to the carburetor.

•Try a new spark plug.

•Check for spark at plug when it is removed and the threaded end is grounded.

•Unplug the six-position socket that connects engine wiring to mower wiring harness.

Engine will still crank. If plug doesn’t have a spark now, ignition module is probably

defective.

Checks for mechanical problems

•Make sure the tank gas valve is turned on.

•Remove air filter element to check for signs of gas in the throat of the carburetor.

•If no gas, check to see if choke is working properly.

•If all above checks show positive, carburetor must have an internal problem. Remove and

clean the carburetor.

ENGINE STALLS WHEN PTO IS ENGAGED

The seat safety switch plug not being properly inserted, or a

defective plug can cause this problem. If the plug is not

inserted or is defective, the spark plug is grounded out when

the PTO is engage.

To check, remove plug from the PTO switch. Using an

ohmmeter, place one probe on the terminal connected to the

black wire going to the seat safety switch plug. Place the

other probe on a good chassis ground. The meter should be

on zero with no weight on the seat. Pulling the seat down

should open the circuit.

3

IF PTO CLUTCH WILL NOT ENGAGE

Apply a negative ground to this terminal

Apply 12Volts to this terminal. Clutch should

activate, if it doesn’t, clutch is defective.

If clutch checks OK, use a voltmeter to measure for

12 volts at the brown wire’s terminal. First turn

ignition switch to the ON position but don’t start the

engine. Now engage the PTO switch. For the first test

put the negative probe on a good ground, not on the

white wire’s terminal in the plug. If no voltage is

measured, move on to next test.

The problem may be a poor ground on the white wire

in the clutch plug. Check by testing for continuity to

ground or check for voltage between the two

terminals. If no voltage is measured, move on to next

test.

With the PTO switch ON there should be continuity

between these two connectors, if not, replace switch.

If switch tested good, check wires and connectors

back to ignition switch and back to clutch plug.

Used on

ZT2350

Used on

ZT18542

4

WIRING DIAGRAM

HOUR METER USED ONLY ON ZT2350

HOUR METER NOT OPERATING

Hour meter has a positive and a

negative post. Gray wire should go on

the positive. Power is supplied from the

ignition switch.

Green wire from hour meter is

grounded by the oil pressure switch,

therefore only has a ground when the

engine is running.

5

WIRE IDENTIFICATION AT SWITCHES

3623 IGNITION SWITCH

One gray wire goes to the

PTO switch and the other

goes to the hour meter

One black wire goes

to PTO switch and

the other goes to the

engine plug

Green wire goes to PTO switch

Red wire goes to fuse and

on to battery positive at

the solenoid terminal.

One white wire goes to clutch

and other one goes to ground.

STARTER SOLENOID

Heavy red cable

goes to the starter.

Red wire goes through

fuse and onto ignition

switch.

Green wire goes to

neutral switches and

on to the ignition

switch.

Heavy red cable

goes to the

positive post of the

battery.

Red wire goes to

engine plug.

Green wire with

orange stripe goes

to the ground.

PTO SWITCH PLUG

Black wire goes to the

ignition switch.

Green wire goes to the

ignition switch.

Gray wire goes to the

ignition switch.

Black wire goes to the seat

switch.

Green wire goes to the

neutral switches.

Brown wire goes to the

clutch.

6

WIRE IDENTIFICATION ON ZT18542

Gray wire goes to ignition switch

Black wire goes to ignition switch

Red wire goes to terminal on

solenoid with the positive battery

cable

Red wire goes to engine charging

system

Orange wire is not used on this

application

Black wire goes to engine ignition

module

Gray wire goes to carburetor fuel

solenoid

WIRING HARNESS TO ENGINE PLUG CONNECTION

WIRING HARNESS PLUG TO ENGINE

Red wire goes to terminal on solenoid

with the positive battery cable

Black wire goes to the ignition switch

Gray wire to the ignition switch

7

WIRING HARNESS TO ENGINE PLUG CONNECTION

Gray wire goes to carburetor fuel solenoid

Green wire goes to oil pressure switch

Black wire goes to engine ignition module

Red wire goes to engine charging system

Green wire goes to hour meter

Red wire goes to terminal on solenoid

with the positive battery cable.

Black wire goes to the ignition switch.

Gray wire goes to hour meter

WIRING HARNESS PLUG TO ENGINE

Gray wire goes to hour meter

Green wire goes to hour meter

Red wire goes to

terminal on solenoid

with the positive

battery cable.

Black wire goes to the

ignition switch.

WIRE IDENTIFICATION ON ZT2350

8

CARBURETOR FUEL SOLENOID

USED ON ZT2350

Black wire goes to engine ground.

Gray wire goes to the engine plug,

then on to the ignition switch where

it receives power to activate the fuel

shut off valve.

Fuel shut off solenoid is a Briggs part

and is available through them only.

USED ON ZT18542

Black wire goes to ground.

Gray wire goes to the engine plug,

then on to the ignition switch where

it receives power to activate the fuel

shut off valve.

Fuel shut off solenoid is a Briggs part

and is available through them only.

9

BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEMS

To test alternator before it goes to the

regulator, unplug the yellow connector and

measure the AC voltage across the the two

gray wires inside this connector.There

should be at least 20 volts AC.

USED ON THE ZT2350

USED ON ZT18542

To test alternator, first disconnect the

green plug. Then measure for AC voltage

between the terminal end on the gray

wire and the bolt in the regulator There

should be around 40 volts AC.

Red wire goes to the engine plug and

then on to the positive terminal of the

solenoid to keep the battery charged.

Easiest way to check if the charging is

taking place is to measure the DC

voltage of the battery before you start

the engine. Then start the engine.

Measure the voltage at the battery with

the engine running. The voltage should

be at least one volt higher right after

the engine is started. This voltage will

drop a little as the battery gets

recharged.

Red wire goes to the engine plug and then

on to the positive terminal of the solenoid

to keep the battery charged. Easiest way to

check if the charging is taking place is to

measure the DC voltage of the battery

before you start the engine. Then start the

engine. Measure the voltage at the battery

with the engine running. The voltage

should be at least one volt higher right after

the engine is started. This voltage will drop

a little as the battery gets recharged.

Voltage

Regulator

10

ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CONTROLS

Remove left and right instrument covers for access

Once the tracking adjustments have been made on

the previous page, the handles can now adjusted

straight across from each other by loosening both

nuts that mount handles and rotate them forward or

backwards.This adjustment can also be used to bring

both handles closer or farther forward for the

comfort of the operator.

The bolt that joins the handle mount to the pivot

weldment has a nylon bushing that provides friction

to control the effort needed to move the control arms

in or out. The proper adjustment is achieved when

arms stay put in any position and a slight effort is

required to reposition them.

Adjusting this screw and its

locking nut can move the

handles left or right to avoid

contact between them.

ADJUSTMENT OF STEERING PIVOT PLATE

View by removing right side instrument cover

This turnbuckle should be adjusted to

position the front of the pivot plate

slightly lower than the rear. Make sure

the handle is out in its neutral position

while making the adjustment.

When replacing this ball linkage

assembly, a sequence needs to be

followed. Put the control handle out in

the neutral position. Fasten the top end

first. Then since the control lever on the

front of the hydro unit self-centers,

lengthen or shorten the ball linkage

assembly until the lower stud falls freely

into the hole on the control.

ADJUSTMENT OF STEERING

View by removing right side instrument cover

11

TRACKING ADJUSTMENTS

Adjustments to the unit may need to be made if the unit does not track in a straight line.

The primary reason for the unit not tracking straight is incorrect or unbalanced tire

pressure. Before making any adjustments first check and adjust the tire pressure. DO NOT

EXCEED MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED TIRE PRESSUE.

ADJUST LINKAGE: Place steering levers outward locking them in the neutral position.

Turn off engine and raise seat. Under the seat are (4) adjustment bolts. The two adjustment

bolts toward the seat mount are adjustments for the forward travel. The two bolts toward

the engine are for the reverse travel. Clockwise movement for these will decrease or slow

the travel speed of the individual side. Counterclockwise movement will increase the travel

of the individual side. The linkage is factory set to maximum performance. Adjustment is

made by, first loosening the locking nuts, then rotating the adjustment bolt clockwise on

the opposite side that the unit tracks toward. Adjust forward and reverse to track straight as

needed. When accomplished, adjustment to the steering levers may need to be done. This is

made by loosening the two bolts on the steering lever and aligning with the other. Travel of

the steering levers from front to rear may be accomplished in the same manner, to adjust

for the comfort of the operator.

Neutral-Lock position

Steering levers out

Adjustment bolts

both sides Front of

Mower

Tracking Adjustment

Diagram

Increase speed

Decrease speed

12

REPLACEMENT OF THE HYDRO UNIT

Prepare to replace the unit by jacking the mower up on the side where the defective unit is

located. Use a jack stand to support the mower while you are working. Remove the wheel

on the defective unit. Remove the rear cover behind the clutch and remove the deck belt.

Remove the transmission idler spring from its mounting bolt on the transmission plate

allowing the transmission belt to be removed from the defective unit. Dropping the

electric clutch will give more room to work under the engine compartment. The hydro

release lever will need to be unhooked from the transmission. Remove enough of the

parking brake weldment to get it out of the way. Six bolts hold the hydro unit to the

mount plate. The bolts come down from the top, putting the nuts on the bottom for easy

removal. The opening in the mount plate is large enough to drop the unit out without

removing the pulley and fan blade. Use the pictures below to help locate the parts. Install

the new unit in reverse order of removal. Referring to the sections on “Adjusting the

Drive Controls” and “Tracking Adjustments” get the new unit working in coordination

with opposite side.

Remove cotter pin and washer

to remove hydro release lever.

Location of bolts

13

REPAIRING OR REPLACING BLADE DRIVER

Torque top nut to 90 ft/lbs

Replacing this nut each

time is recommended.

Pulley does not have a hub.

When removing, just lift it

off like a washer, no puller is

needed.

Machine washers are used

to keep the pulley from

contacting the outer race

of the bearing. When

applying torque to the top

nut the pressure is to the

inner race only and onto

the shank on the inner

shaft.

Bearings are sealed. They

can be driven out and new

ones pressed in for repairing

the spindle assembly. It can

also be purchased as a unit

for easier repair.

Since there are no hubs on

our pulleys, this Belleville

washer is important to apply

friction to the pulley to turn

the shaft. Make sure the

outer lip is down to best

contact the pulley.

Bottom end of the shaft

has the same ¾ in. SAE

threads as the top end.

This washer is wide

enough to to cover the full

bottom of the housing and

is used as a protector for

the seal in the bearing.

Machine washer used

as a spacer just like

those on top of the

upper bearing.

This adaptor block is right

hand threaded onto the ¾ in.

shaft. Torque this block to

90 ft/lbs just like the nut at

the top of the shaft.

Install the blade adaptor block to the bottom of the shaft. Before applying torque, install the

blade to the block using only the outer two bolts. Leave the center bolt out for now. Block

the blade to outer deck edge by using a 4x4 or similar stop. Using a torque wrench on the

top nut above the pulley, apply 90 ft/lbs. The top nut and the adaptor block will equally

receive the tightening. Now put the washer on the center bolt and install into the shaft.

Torque the three bolts to 35 ft/lbs. The center bolt will lock the block so it won’t come off.

14

BELT REPLACEMENT ROUTING

•Clutch drive belt replacement

•Remove belt covers

•Disconnect tension idler from tension bracket

•Remove belt from mower pulley and electric

clutch

•Install new belt onto electric clutch and mower

pulley and check for proper routing and

clearance.

•Reconnect idler tension bolt to tension bracket

Hydrostats belt replacement

•Remove clutch drive belt. See clutch belt

replacement.

•Disconnect wiring from electric clutch.

•Disconnect idler spring from tension bracket.

•Remove bolt and washer from bottom of

electric clutch and slide clutch from engine

crankshaft, set aside.

•Remove belt from transaxles and engine pulley.

•Install new belt. Check for proper routing and

clearance.

•Reinstall electric clutch carefully aligning

keyed portion of clutch and keyway in

crankshaft. Reinstall bolt and washer. Washer is

“cupped” be sure to place “cupped” side of

washer towards the clutch body.

•Reconnect tension idler to tension bracket.

•Reconnect wiring harness to electric clutch.

•Reinstall clutch drive belt. See clutch drive belt

replacement.

Part # 3816

Part # 3752

66LR Transmission belt

Hydraulic Release

Push in and lock to the left.

15

REPLACEMENT PARTS

Quick Reference

Swisher Part# Description

•66LR Hydro belt

•3752 Deck belt for 42”

•3816 Deck belt for 50”

•9004 and 9005 Blades for 42” (1 of each)

•10099 Set of Blades for 50”

•9018 Blade driver assembly

•B98 Blade driver bearing

•9076 Blade shaft

•3785 Blade pulley for 42”deck

•B4104TK Blade pulley for 50”deck

•3623 Ignition switch

•9043 Starter solenoid

•3605 PTO switch

•6102NC Gas cap

•TZ2S Deck idler spring

16

REPAIR

MANUAL

MODEL NO.

ZT2350

Each mower has its own model number. Each engine has its

own model number. The model number for the mower will be

found under the seat. The model number for the engine will be

found on the top of the blower fan housing.

All mower parts listed herein may be ordered directly from

Swisher Mower & Machine Co. Inc. or your nearest Swisher

dealer.

All engine parts may be ordered from the nearest dealer of the

engine supplied with your mower.

WHEN ORDERING PARTS, PLEASE HAVE THE

FOLLOWING INFORMATION AVAILABLE:

* PRODUCT – Zero Turn Rider (“Z” Series)

* SERIAL NUMBER - _______________

* MODEL NUMBER - _______________

* ENGINE MODEL NUMBER - _______________

TYPE - _______________

* PART NUMBER WITH PAINT CODE

* PART DESCRIPTION

TELEPHONE - 1-800-222-8183

FAX - 1-660-747-8650

SWISHER MOWER & MACHINE CO. INC.

1602 CORPORATE DRIVE

P.O. BOX 67

WARRENSBURG, MO 64093

SWISHER MOWER & MACHINE CO. INC.

swisherinc.com

ZERO TURN HYDROSTATIC DRIVE

“Z” SERIES

ZT18542