T962A_TFT_Building_Instructionsx T962A Controller Building Instructions

User Manual:

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**** Assembling the T962A V3.0C Controller (STM32 with 5.0” TFT) *********

1) FIRST, It is highly recommended to solder on the most difficult component,

the STM32H7 processor, since it is a LQFP-176 pin chip.

(whether using a reflow oven or hand soldering, I’ve found it much easier

to do the processor first, by itself, when the board is nice and empty)

2) SECOND build the POWER SUPPLY section of the board, the right-most

section of the board, as shown in the picture.

Since the power supply on this board (5V & 3.3V) uses switching ICs, you

really want to make sure you got all the components correct or you can

easily have high/incorrect voltages and blow up everything else. I

destroyed an STM32 processor by doing this exact thing, put an incorrect

resistor in and the supply put out 12V instead of 3.3v.

3) THIRD check the supply voltages once the power supply section is

complete.

*** DO NOT MOVE ON UNTIL YOU SEE APPROX. 3.3v AND 5.0v ****

4) FOURTH build the two FAN5333B boost supply circuits as shown below.

These provide the approx. 19.2v for the LCD backlight and the approx.

12.5v for the FL5160 IC.

*** Measure the 19.2V (approx) supply as shown below: ***

*** Measure the 12.5V (approx) supply as shown below: ***

5) At this point the rest of the board can be assembled, as all voltages required

have been verified.

** notice I did leave out some of the power supply capacitors, there is quite

a bit of extra capacitance on this board, that you can omit to save cost if

required. **

6) *** EXTRA NOTES ****

When mounting this board into your oven, **DO NOT** use

the red felt insulators as the OEM board did.

This board MUST be grounded to the chassis, as it was

designed to be properly grounded with the rest of the oven

chassis.

***See the above pictures, all of the mounting screws are

directly mounted to the PLATED MOUNTING HOLES***

The 2 left mounting holes (where the old LCD screen was) sit a

bit higher than the other 4 holes…

you can use the old RED FELT insulators as spacers on the

UNDERSIDE of the board when mounting it (or you can user

metal washers as well) to make the board sit evenly across all

6 mounting holes without any flexing.