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Warranty

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LIMITED WARRANTY • 1
LIMITED WARRANTY - ROADMASTER CHASSIS • 5
WARRANTY INFORMATION FILE • 8
MONACO COACH CORPORATION
MOTORHOME LIMITED WARRANTY
What the Period of Coverage Is:
If you use your Monaco motorhome only for recreational travel and family
camping purposes, the Limited Warranty provided by Monaco Coach
Corporation ("Warrantor") covers your new motorhome when sold by an
authorized dealer, for twelve (12) months from the original retail purchase date
or the first 24,000 miles of use, whichever occurs first. However, the Limited
Warranty provided by Warrantor covers the steel or aluminum frame structure
of the sidewalls (excluding slide outs), roof, and rear and front walls for sixty
(60) months from the original retail purchase date or the first 50,000 miles of
use, whichever comes first.

LIMITED
WARRANTY

- 2002 Windsor

If you use your motorhome for any rental, commercial or business purposes whatsoever, the Limited Warranty provided by Warrantor covers your
new motorhome when sold by an authorized dealer for ninety (90) days from
the original retail purchase date or the first 24,000 miles of use, whichever
occurs first. In addition, the Limited Warranty provided by Warrantor covers
the steel or aluminum frame structure of the sidewalls (excluding slide outs),
roof, and rear and front walls for twelve (12) months from the original purchase date or the first 24,000 miles of use, whichever comes first. A conclusive
presumption that your motorhome has been used for commercial and/or business purposes arises if you have filed a federal or state tax form claiming any
business tax benefit related to your ownership of the motorhome.
The above Limited Warranty coverage applies to all owners, including
subsequent owners, of the motorhome. However, a subsequent owner must
submit a warranty transfer form by filing the form through an authorized
Monaco dealer. A subsequent owner's warranty coverage period is the remaining
balance of the warranty coverage period the prior owner was entitled to under
this Limited Warranty. Warranty transfer forms can be obtained by contacting
the Consumer Affairs Department. There is no charge for the transfer.

WINDSOR

1

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Limitations of Implied ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES ARISING BY WAY OF STATE LAW,
INCLUDING ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY
Warranties
AND ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE, ARE LIMITED IN DURATION TO THE TERM OF THIS
LIMITED WARRANTY AND ARE LIMITED IN SCOPE OF COVERAGE
TO THOSE PORTIONS OF THE MOTORHOME COVERED BY THIS
LIMITED WARRANTY. There is no warranty of any nature made by
Warrantor beyond that contained in this Limited Warranty. No person has
authority to enlarge, amend or modify this Limited Warranty. The dealer is not
the Warrantor's agent but is an independent entity. Warrantor is not responsible
for any undertaking, representation or warranty made by any dealer or other
person beyond those expressly set forth in this Limited Warranty. Some states
do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above
limitation may not apply to you.

What the Warranty
Covers

Warrantor's Limited Warranty covers defects in the manufacture of your
motorhome and defects in materials used to manufacture your motorhome.
Also see the section "What the Warranty Does Not Cover" set out below.

What We Will Do to
Correct Problems

Warrantor will repair and/or replace, at its option, any covered defect if: (1)
you notify Warrantor or one of its authorized servicing dealers of the defect
within the warranty coverage period and within five (5) days of discovering the
defect; and (2) you deliver your Motorhome to Warrantor or Warrantor's
authorized servicing dealer at your cost and expense. It is reasonable to expect
some service items to occur during the warranty period.
Warrantor may use new and/or remanufactured parts and/or components of
substantially equal quality to complete any repair.
Defects and/or damage to interior and exterior surfaces, trim, upholstery and
other appearance items may occur at the factory during manufacture, during
delivery of the motorhome to the selling dealer or on the selling dealer's lot.
Normally, any such defect or damage is detected and corrected at the factory or
by the selling dealer during the inspection process performed by the Warrantor
and the selling dealer. If, however, you discover any such defect or damage
when you take delivery of the motorhome, you must notify your dealer or
Warrantor within five days of the date of purchase to have repairs performed to
the defect at no cost to you as provided by this Limited Warranty.
If two or more unsuccessful repair attempts have been made to correct any
covered defect that you believe substantially impairs the value, use or safety of
your motorhome, you must, to the extent permitted by law, notify Warrantor
directly in writing of the failure to successfully repair the defect so that
Warrantor can become directly involved in performing a successful repair to the
identified defect.

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The Warranty Registration form must be returned to Warrantor promptly
upon purchase to assure proper part replacement or repair and to activate your
Limited Warranty. For warranty service simply contact one of Warrantor's
authorized service centers for an appointment, then deliver your motorhome (at
your expense) to the service center. If you need assistance in locating an
authorized warranty service facility, contact Warrantor's Warranty Department
(1-877-466-6226). The mailing address is:

How to Get Service

MONACO COACH CORPORATION
Attention: Warranty Department
92320 Coburg Industrial Way
Coburg, Oregon 97408
In the event the motorhome is inoperative due to malfunction of a warranted
part, Warrantor will pay the cost of having the motorhome towed to the nearest
authorized repair facility provided you notify Warrantor prior to incurring the
towing charges to receive directions to the nearest repair facility.
Because Warrantor does not control the scheduling of service work by its
authorized servicing dealers, you may encounter some delay in scheduling
and/or in the completion of the repairs.

This Limited Warranty does not cover: any motorhome sold or registered
outside of the United States or Canada; items which are added or changed after
the motorhome leaves Warrantor's possession; items that are working as
designed but which you are unhappy with because of the design; normal wear
and usage, such as fading or discoloration of fabrics, or the effects of
condensation inside the motorhome; defacing, scratching, dents and chips on
any surface or fabric of the motorhome, not caused by Warrantor; routine
maintenance, including by way of example wheel alignments; the automotive
chassis and power train, including, by way of example the engine, drive train,
steering and handling, braking, wheel balance, muffler, tires, tubes, batteries
and gauges; appliances and components covered by their own manufacturer's
warranty including, by way of example the microwave, refrigerator, ice maker,
stove, oven, generator, roof air conditioners, hydraulic jacks, VCR, television(s), water heater, furnace, stereo, radio, compact disc player, washer,
dryer, inverter and cellular phone; or flaking, peeling and chips or other
defects or damage in or to the exterior or finish caused by rocks or other road
hazards, the environment including airborne pollutants, salt, tree sap and hail.

WINDSOR

What the Warranty
Does Not Cover

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Events Discharging
Warrantor from
Obligation Under
Warranty

Misuse or neglect, accidents, unauthorized alteration, failure to provide
reasonable and necessary maintenance (See Owner's Manual), damage caused
by off road use, collision, fire, theft, vandalism, explosions, overloading, and
odometer tampering shall discharge Warrantor from any express or implied
warranty obligation to repair any resulting defect.

Disclaimer of
Consequential &
Incidental Damages

THE ORIGINAL PURCHASER OF THE MOTORHOME AND ANY
PERSON TO WHOM THE MOTORHOME IS TRANSFERRED, AND
ANY PERSON WHO IS AN INTENDED OR UNINTENDED USER OR
BENEFICIARY OF THE MOTORHOME , SHALL NOT BE ENTITLED
TO RECOVER FROM WARRANTOR ANY CONSEQUENTIAL OR
INCIDENTAL DAMAGES RESULTING FROM ANY DEFECT IN THE
MOTORHOME. THE EXCLUSION OF CONSEQUENTIAL AND
INCIDENTAL DAMAGES SHALL BE DEEMED INDEPENDENT OF,
AND SHALL SURVIVE, ANY FAILURE OF THE ESSENTIAL PURPOSE
OF ANY LIMITED REMEDY. Some states do not allow the exclusion or
limitation of consequential or incidental damages, so the above exclusions may
not apply to you.

Legal Remedies

ANY ACTION TO ENFORCE THIS EXPRESS OR ANY IMPLIED
WARRANTY SHALL NOT BE COMMENCED MORE THAN ONE (1)
YEAR AFTER THE EXPIRATION OF THIS WARRANTY. Some states
do not allow the reduction in the statute of limitations, so the above reduction
may not apply to you.
THIS WARRANTY GIVES YOU SPECIFIC LEGAL RIGHTS, AND
YOU MAY ALSO HAVE OTHER RIGHTS WHICH VARY FROM
STATE TO STATE.
MONACO COACH CORPORATION
ATTENTION: WARRANTY DEPARTMENT
91320 COBURG INDUSTRIAL WAY
COBURG, OREGON 97408
1-877-466-6226

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What the Period of Coverage is:
If you use the Roadmaster Chassis that your motorhome is mounted upon
for only recreational travel and family camping purposes, the Limited
Warranty provided by Roadmaster ("Warrantor") covers your Roadmaster
Chassis for twenty-four (24) months from the original retail purchase date or
the first 24,000 miles of use, whichever occurs first.
If you use the Roadmaster Chassis that your motorhome is mounted upon
for any rental, commercial or business purposes whatsoever, the Limited Warranty
provided by Warrantor covers your new Roadmaster Chassis for Ninety (90)
days from the original retail purchase date of the motorhome or the first
24,000 miles of use, whichever occurs first. A conclusive presumption that the
Roadmaster Chassis has been used for commercial and/or business purposes
arises if you have filed a federal or state tax form claiming any business tax
benefit related to your ownership of the motorhome.

LIMITED
WARRANTY
- ROADMASTER
CHASSIS

ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES ARISING BY WAY OF STATE LAW,
INCLUDING ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY
AND ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE, ARE LIMITED IN DURATION TO THE TERM OF THIS
LIMITED WARRANTY AND ARE LIMITED IN SCOPE OF COVERAGE
TO THOSE PORTIONS OF THE ROADMASTER CHASSIS COVERED
BY THIS LIMITED WARRANTY. There is no warranty of any nature made
by Warrantor beyond that contained in this Limited Warranty. No person has
authority to enlarge, amend or modify this Limited Warranty. Any dealer selling a
motorhome assembled upon a Roadmaster Chassis is not the Warrantor's agent
but is an independent entity. Warrantor is not responsible for any undertaking,
representation or warranty made by any dealer or other person beyond those
expressly set forth in this Limited Warranty. Some states do not allow limitations
on how long an implied warranty lasts, so the above limitation may not apply
to you.

Limitation of
Implied Warranties

Warrantor's Limited Warranty covers defects in the manufacture of the
Roadmaster Chassis (as defined herein) and defects in materials used to
manufacture the Roadmaster Chassis. The term "Roadmaster Chassis" as used
herein means only the frame; frame cross members; steering axle, including the
axle king pins and bushings; hubs and bearings; brake calipers; rotors, brake
backing plates and related parts of the axle; tie rods; drag links; drive shafts,
including the U-joints; carrier bearings; and, the axle housing and its internal
parts. Also see the section "What the Warranty Does Not Cover" set out below.

What the Warranty
Covers

WINDSOR

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What We Will Do to
Correct Problems

Warrantor will repair and/or replace, at its option, any covered defect if: (1)
you notify Warrantor or one of its authorized servicing dealers of the defect
within the warranty coverage period and within five (5) days of discovering any
such defect; and (2) you deliver the Roadmaster Chassis to Warrantor or
Warrantor's authorized servicing dealer at your cost and expense. It is reasonable to expect some service items to occur during the warranty period.
Warrantor may use new and/or remanufactured parts and/or components of
substantially equal quality to complete any repairs.
Defect and/or damage to the Roadmaster Chassis may occur during manufacture
at the factory, during delivery of the motorhome to the selling dealer or on the selling
dealer’s lot. Normally, any factory defect or damage is detected and corrected at
the factory or by the selling dealer during the inspection process performed
by the Warrantor and the selling dealer. If, however, you discover any such
defect or damage when you take delivery of the Roadmaster Chassis, you must
notify your dealer or Warrantor within five days of the date of purchase to have
repairs performed to any such defect at no cost to you as provided by this
Limited Warranty.
If two or more unsuccessful repair attempts have been made to correct any
covered defect that you believe substantially impairs the value, use or safety of
your motorhome, you must, to the extent permitted by law, notify Warrantor
directly in writing of the failure to successfully repair the defect so that
Warrantor can become directly involved in performing a successful repair to the
identified defect.

How to Get Service

For warranty service simply contact one of Warrantor's authorized service
centers for an appointment, then deliver your Roadmaster Chassis (at your
expense) to the service center. If you need assistance in locating an authorized
warranty service facility, contact Warrantor's Warranty Department
(877-466-6226). The mailing address is:
Monaco Coach Corporation
Attention: Warranty Department
1809 W. Hively
Elkhart, Indiana 46517
In the event the Roadmaster Chassis is inoperative due to malfunction of a
warranted part, Warrantor shall pay the cost of having the Roadmaster Chassis
that the motorhome is mounted upon towed to the nearest authorized repair
facility provided you notify Warrantor prior to incurring the towing charges to
receive directions to the nearest repair facility.
Because Warrantor does not control the scheduling of service work by its
authorized servicing dealers, you may encounter some delay in scheduling
and/or in the completion of the repairs.

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This Limited Warranty does not cover: modifications and alterations to the
Roadmaster Chassis by others; the motorhome that is mounted upon the Roadmaster
Chassis, including by way of example the motorhome manufacturer's design,
manufacture, assembly and/or installation of the side walls, roof, windows, flooring,
electrical system, plumbing system, LP-gas system, appliances and slide-outs;
items that are working as designed but which you are unhappy with because of
the design; normal wear and usage; routine maintenance including by way of
example wheel alignments; component parts covered by their own manufacturer's
warranty, including by way of example the engine, transmission, tires,
tubes, batteries, exhaust system and the emission control systems; and, flaking,
peeling, rusting and chips or other defects or damage in or to the frame and frame
cross members caused by rocks or other road hazards and the environment
including airborne pollutants and salt.

What the Warranty
Does Not Cover

Misuse or neglect, accidents, unauthorized alteration, failure to provide
reasonable and necessary maintenance (See Owner's Manual), damage caused
by off road use, collision, fire, theft, vandalism, explosions, overloading, and
odometer tampering shall discharge Warrantor from any express or implied
warranty obligation to repair any resulting defect.

Events Discharging
Warrantor from
Obligation Under
Warranty

THE ORIGINAL RETAIL PURCHASER OF THE ROADMASTER
CHASSIS AND ANY PERSON TO WHOM THE ROADMASTER
CHASSIS IS TRANSFERRED, AND ANY PERSON WHO IS AN
INTENDED OR UNINTENDED USER OR BENEFICIARY OF THE
ROADMASTER CHASSIS, SHALL NOT BE ENTITLED TO RECOVER
FROM WARRANTOR ANY CONSEQUENTIAL OR INCIDENTAL
DAMAGES RESULTING FROM ANY DEFECT IN THE MOTORHOME.
THE EXCLUSION OF CONSEQUENTIAL AND INCIDENTAL DAMAGES
SHALL BE DEEMED INDEPENDENT OF, AND SHALL SURVIVE,
ANY FAILURE OF THE ESSENTIAL PURPOSE OF ANY LIMITED
REMEDY. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of consequential
or incidental damages, so the above exclusions may not apply to you.

Disclaimer of
Consequential &
Incidental Damages

ANY ACTION TO ENFORCE THIS EXPRESS OR ANY IMPLIED
WARRANTY SHALL NOT BE COMMENCED MORE THAN ONE (1)
YEAR AFTER THE EXPIRATION OF THIS WARRANTY. Some states
do not allow the reduction in the statute of limitations, so the above reduction
may not apply to you. THIS WARRANTY GIVES YOU SPECIFIC
LEGAL RIGHTS, AND YOU MAY ALSO HAVE OTHER RIGHTS
WHICH VARY FROM STATE TO STATE.

Legal Remedies

ROADMASTER CHASSIS DIVISION
MONACO COACH CORPORATION
91320 COBURG INDUSTRIAL WAY
COBURG, OREGON 97408
WINDSOR

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WARRANTY
INFORMATION
FILE

In addition to this Owner’s Manual you will find a Warranty Information
File in your unit. This file contains valuable documents about your
motorhome systems and equipment. Many of the component manufacturer’s
warranty registration cards can be found in the box. They will need to be filled
out and mailed. Be sure you read and understand all the information in this file
to help you safely operate, maintain and troubleshoot those items.

MONACO COACH CORPORATION FINISH
Because no two trees look alike, authentic woods vary in color
and character markings such as streaks, knots and grain patterns.
Since the stains may attach differently to these grain patterns,
some natural light and dark areas may result. The beauty lies
in these natural variations of color and grain that give
each cabinet its own individual charm.
The beauty of these products are protected with a furniture-quality
exterior finish. After a period of time, there may be minimal
changes in the finish color as it ages in its surrounding conditions.
This is an inherent characteristic of this particular finish, and the
natural aging process adds to the unique appearance of the cabinetry.
Due to the minor differences in tone, it may not be possible to
match the finish color of existing cabinets exactly when replacing
doors or adding additional cabinets at a later date.
MONACO COACH CORPORATION
The foregoing is not a warning. See Monaco Coach Corporation’s Limited Warranty or call
Monaco Coach Corporation at (877) 466-6226 for warranty information and limitations.

8

WINDSOR

SECTIONS

1
General Information
2
Driving & Safety
3
Care & Maintenancce
4
Appliancces
5
Eq
quipment
6
Water Systems
7
LP−G
Gas Systems
8
Elecctriccal Systems − House
9
Elecctriccal Systems − Chassis
10
Chassis Information
Index − 314
4

SIGNS
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------This sign indicates a NOTE.

T h i s s i g n i n d i c a t e s a WA R N I N G o r a C AU T I O N w i t h
additional information attached.

This sign indicates INSPECTION is required.

T h i s s i g n i n d i c a t e s A S S E M B LY / I N S TA L L AT I O N o r
D I S A S S E M B LY / R E M OVA L i s n e c e s s a r y.

This sign indicates the specified part requires
O I L / LU B R I C AT I O N .

T h i s s i g n i n d i c a t e s a r e f e r e n c e t o t h e Wa r r a n t y
I N F O R M AT I O N F I L E l o c a t e d w i t h i n t h e g r e y b o x i n s i d e
the motorhome.
The information contained in this document is intended to reflect standard and
optional equipment included in a typically equipped model at the time of delivery to the
initial retail owner. Your actual unit may vary from this document as a result of optional
equipment that is not generally offered on this model. In the case that you are not the
initial retail owner of this unit, this document will not reflect modifications that may
have been performed by previous owner.
Product information and specifications are shown herein as of the time of printing.
Monaco Coach Corporation reserves the right to change product specifications, designs
and standard equipment without notice and without incurring obligation.
©Copyright 2002 Monaco Coach Corporation. All rights reserved. The Windsor is a trademark of
Monaco Coach Corporation. All other trademarks or registered trademarks are property of their
respective holders. Brand name products of other companies mentioned in this manual are not
endorsed by Monaco Coach Corporation.

SECTION 1
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION • 13
CUSTOMER RELATIONS • 13
REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS • 14
TAKING DELIVERY • 14
MONACO COACH CORPORATION Responsibilities • 14
Dealer Responsibilities • 14
Customer Responsibilities • 15
SERVICE SUGGESTIONS • 15
Prepare for the Appointment • 15
Prepare a List • 15
Be Reasonable With Your Requests • 15
No Looking Over the Technicians Shoulder • 16
Inspect the Work Properly • 16
OWNER’S RECORD - SERIAL NUMBERS • 17
OWNER’S RECORD - PERSONAL PROPERTY • 18
OWNER’S RECORD - INSURANCE • 19
VENDOR LIST • 20

1

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This section contains warranty information and knowledge for the operation
and care of the motorhome. Not all information may be applicable to your
model of motorhome. More detailed information with CAUTION or WARNING
instructions, other than what is found in this chapter, can be found in the
manufacturer’s owner manuals located in the owner information box.
In time you will develop a knack for spotting wonderful little roadside
locations by turning off the main highway and exploring. There are many
modern recreational vehicle parks (including state, county and federal parks)
with good facilities where you can obtain hook-ups for electrical, water and
sewage connections. Directories are published which describe these parks and
the availability of services and hook-ups. On overnight or weekend trips,
chances are you will probably not fill up the sewage holding tanks, deplete the
water or LP-Gas supply, or run down the batteries which supply the living area
with 12 Volt DC current. On longer trips, when you have stayed where sewer
connections and utility hook-ups were not available, it will be necessary to
stop occasionally to empty the holding tanks and replenish the water and
LP-Gas supply.
Many gas stations have installed sanitary dumping stations. Publications are
available which list these dumping stations. When stopped for the night the
Windsor motorhome is built to be safely parked in any spot that is relatively
level and where the ground is firm. Try to pick as level a parking spot as possible. Your facilities are with you and the motorhome is fully self-contained.
The safety alert symbols of CAUTION or WARNING are “Personal
Safety Instructions.” It is important to thoroughly read and understand these
safety instructions where the symbols are displayed throughout the manual.
Failure to comply with specific instructions may result in personal injury or
death. Many instructions are required by National Safety Associations.

Only by ensuring your confidence and satisfaction with our products and
services can we have continued success as a manufacturer of motorhomes. We
believe a good relationship with our customers is just as important as improving
the technical excellence of our products. Your authorized dealer is pleased to
help you with instructions about your motorhome and to offer service when
you need it. If problems remain after you have consulted your dealer you are
invited to contact our Consumer Affairs Department. Please have all pertinent
information (serial numbers, model number, etc.) when calling. We will work
with the dealer and see that every attempt to resolve the matter is made.

INTRODUCTION

CUSTOMER
RELATIONS

Customer Service Department
Monaco Coach Corporation
91320 Coburg Industrial Way
Coburg, Oregon 97408
877-466-6226
WINDSOR

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REPORTING
SAFETY DEFECTS

If you believe that your motorhome has a defect which could cause a crash
or could cause injury or death, you should immediately inform the National
Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) in addition to notifying
Monaco Coach Corporation. If NHTSA receives similar complaints, it may
open an investigation, and if it finds that a safety defect exists in a group of
motorhomes, it may order a recall or remedy campaign. However, NHTSA cannot become involved in individual problems between you, your dealer or
Monaco Coach Corporation. To contact NHTSA you may either call the Auto
Safety Hot line toll-free at 1-800-424-9393 (or 1-202-366-0123 in the
Washington D.C. area) or write to:
NHTSA
U.S. Department of Transportation
400 Seventh Street
Washington, DC 20590

TAKING DELIVERY

Your motorhome has been manufactured to the highest quality and standards
by factory trained personnel. Quality inspections are performed throughout the
manufacturing process of your motorhome. The motorhome has been carefully
and almost completely hand assembled in our factory. Prior to the motorhome
arriving at the dealership, all systems have been carefully tested and inspected
to ensure optimum performance. The necessary forms and required manuals
have been placed in the motorhome at the time of shipment to the dealership.

Dealer
Responsibilities

The dealer must perform additional pre-delivery inspections and system
checks, assist in the customer’s understanding of the Limited Warranty and
assist in completing any necessary forms. They must do a customer orientation
to the motorhome, its systems, components and their operation.
The dealer should also ensure the customer receives a complete Owner’s
Packet with warranty cards and registrations for the motorhome and for
separately warranted products, including detailed operating and maintenance
instructions. The dealer is responsible for performing a review of the Limited
Warranty provisions with the customer, while stressing the importance of
mailing warranty cards and registrations to the manufacturers within the
prescribed time limit to avoid loss of warranty coverage. They must assist the
customer in completing these forms and locating serial numbers. They should
request that the customer reads all warranty information when possible and
explain any provision not clearly understood.
The dealer should instruct the customer on how to obtain local and
out-of-town service on the motorhome and its various individual warranted
components, whether the service is warrantable or out of warranty.

Monaco Coach
Corporation
Responsibilities

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As a new motorhome owner you are responsible for regular and proper
maintenance. This will help you prevent conditions arising from neglect that
are not covered by your Monaco Coach Corporation Limited Warranty.
Maintenance services should be performed in accordance with this Owner’s
Manual, and any other applicable manuals. As the owner, it is your responsibility
and obligation to return the motorhome to an authorized dealer for repairs and
service (see the Limited Warranty). Since the authorized dealer where you purchased your new motorhome is responsible for its proper servicing before
delivery, and has an interest in your continued satisfaction, we recommend that
Inspection, Warranty and Maintenance Services be performed by the dealership.
We suggest that you take your new motorhome on a weekend shakedown
before leaving on an extended trip.

Know when to take your motorhome in for service. Give some thought to
the appointment time. There are several things to consider when selecting a
time for service. Location of the service center and the time of year can be a
major issue. Monday and Friday are busy days for most dealers. Therefore, it
makes sense to make a mid-week appointment whenever possible. Ask your
dealer if additional time is needed for check in and completion of paperwork.

Customer
Responsibilities

SERVICE
SUGGESTIONS

If you are having warranty work done, be sure to have your warranty
registration papers with you. All work to be performed may not be covered by
the warranty; be sure to discuss additional charges with the service manager.
Keep a maintenance log of your motorhome service history. This can often
provide a clue to the current problem.

Prepare for the
Appointment

Make a written list of specific repairs needed. It is important the service
manager be aware of all previous work which has been done on your
motorhome. For example: if the motorhome has been repaired due to an accident.
While this may not seem important, it could have a significant effect on the
dealer’s diagnosis of a problem.

Prepare a List

Don’t leave a list of 20 items to be serviced and expect to have the
motorhome back by 5:00 p.m. If you list a number of items, and must have
your motorhome back by the end of the day, discuss the situation with the
service manager and list items in order of priority. Some items may not be able
to be repaired due to work loads or parts availability. Expect to make a second
appointment for work not completed or for the long, drawn-out repair item.

Be Reasonable
With Your
Requests

WINDSOR

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No Looking Over
the Technicians
Shoulder

Please don’t be offended when you are told you cannot watch the work
being done. Many service area insurance requirements forbid the admission of
customers into the service work area.

Inspect the Work
Properly

Check out the service or repair job when you pick up your motorhome and
notify the service manager of any dissatisfaction. If circumstances prevent returning
for immediate corrective work, make an appointment as soon as possible.

1 • 1 6

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FOR YOUR OWN REFERENCE
F O R YO U R O W N R E F E R E N C E

OWNER’S RECORD - SERIAL NUMBERS
Refer to the Manufacturer’s individual Owner’s Manuals for serial number locations that
are not listed below.
Motorhome Serial Number ______________________________________________________
Motorhome Federal Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) ______________________________
Door Key Number ____________________________________________________________
Range Model & Serial Number __________________________________________________
(Located under top burner plate)

Microwave Model & Serial Number ______________________________________________
(Located behind door on case)

Refrigerator Model & Serial Number ______________________________________________
(Located inside refrigerator compartment)

Generator Model & Serial Number________________________________________________
(Located in outside compartment on generator)

Roof Air Conditioner Model & Serial Number_______________________________________
(Located under top cover on air conditioner)

WINDSOR

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FOR YOUR OWN REFERENCE
for your own reference

OWNER’S RECORD - PERSONAL PROPERTY
Item

Serial Number

Value

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
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FOR YOUR OWN REFERENCE

OWNER’S RECORD - INSURANCE
Company: __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Policy #: ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Agent’s Name & Address: ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Business Phone #: _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Emergency Phone #: __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Renewal Date(s):_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Notes: _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

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VENDOR LIST
Air Conditioner
Dometic Corp.
219-463-4858
www.dometic.com

Brake-Anti-Lock Brake System
Eaton
800-826-4357
www.eaton.com

Air Conditioner - Dash
SCS/Frigette
800-433-1740
www.scsfrigette.com

Carbon Monoxide Detector
Safe-T-Alert
800-383-0269
www.safe-t-alert.com

Alternator
Leece-Neville
800-346-8093
www.prestolite.com

Cooktop
Atwood Mobile Products
800-873-4328
www.atwoodmobile.com

Aqua Hot
Vehicle System
800-685-4298

Dash Radio
Sony
800-222-7669
www.sony.com

Awnings
Carefree
800-338-2378
www.carefreeofcolorado.com
Girard Systems - Optional
Girard RV Products
800-621-2617
www.girardrv.com
Axles
Meritor Corporation
800-535-5560
www.meritorauto.com
Eaton Corporation
800-328-6687
www.truck.eaton.com
Batteries
Interstate
800-272-6548
www.interstatebatteries.com

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DVD Player
Sony
800-222-7669
www.sony.com
Energy Management System (Optional)
Intellitec
800-251-2408
www.intellitecsve.com
Engine
Cummins
800-343-7357
www.cummins.com
Entry Step
Kwikee
800-736-9961
www.kwikee.com
Exhaust Brake
Pac Brake
800-663-0096
www.pacbrake.com

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Fan - Bathroom Exhaust
Fan-Tastic Vent
800-395-4045
www.fantasticvent.com

Leveling Jacks - Air
HWH Corporation
800-949-3213
Liquefied Petroleum Protectors
MTI Industries, Inc.
800-383-0269
www.mtiindustries.com

Filters
Racor Fluid Filters
800-344-3286
www.parker.com/racor/
Fire Extinguisher
The Fire Extinguisher Co.
919-563-4911

LP Tank
Manchester Tank
800-877-8265
www.mantank.com

Generator
Onan
800-888-6626
www.onan.com

Microwave
Sharp Electronics Corp.
800-237-4277
www.sharp-usa.com

Heat - Furnace
Atwood Mobile Products
800-873-4328
www.atwoodmobile.com

Outside Mirrors
Velvac Mirror
800-783-8871
www.velvac.com

Hitch Receiver
Reese Products
219-164-7564
www.reeseproducts.com

Power Cord Reel - Optional
Glendinning Marine
843-399-6146
Rear Vision System
Sony
800-222-7669
www.sony.com

Hydraulic Filter
Fleetguard Nelson
1-800-223-4583
www.fleetguard.com

Refrigerator
Norcold
800-543-1219
www.norcold.com

Home Theater
Sony
800-222-7669
www.sony.com

Satellite Sytem
Datron DBS 4500
800-287-5052

Inverter
Trace Engineering
360-435-8826
www.traceengineering.com

Security System
Viper Directed Electronics Inc.
800-274-0200
www.dei.com

Leveling Jacks - Hydraulic
RVA
760-746-5732
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Shock Absorbors
Monroe
800-880-7580
www.tenneco-automotive.com

Toilet
Thetford
800-521-3032
www.thetford.com

Slide-Out Motor - Bedroom
Dewald
219-256-0782

Transfer Switch
Lyght Power Systems
219-295-6016
www.lyghtpower.com

Slide-Out Motor - Living Room
Power Gear
800-334-4712
www.powergear.com
Solar Panels
RV Solar Consultants
541-937-9812
Steering Gear
Sheppard
717-637-3751
www.rhsheppard.com
Steering Wheel (Smart Wheel)
Vehicle Improvement Products
847-395-7250
www.vipwheels.com
Storage Trays
Kwikee
800-736-9961
www.kwikee.com
Television/VCR
RCA
800-336-1900
Television Antenna
Winegard
319-754-0600
www.winegard.com
Tires
Goodyear Tire & Rubber
800-399-2772
www.goodyear.com

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Transmission
Allison Transmission
800-524-2303
www.allisontransmission.com
Washer/Dryer (Optional)
Splendide
800-736-4127
www.splendide.com
Water Filtration
Everpure
630-654-4000
www.everpure.com/consumer/rv
Water Heater
Suburban
800-659-2138
Water Pump
Aquatec
800-975-9995
www.aquatec.com
Wheels - Aluminum
Accuride
800-626-7096
www.accuridecorp.com
Windshield Wipers
Diesel Equipment
336-373-8331
www.dieselequipment.com

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SECTION 2
DRIVING & SAFETY
DRIVING & SAFETY • 25
Inspections • 25
Familiarize Yourself • 25
Safety Seat Belts • 25
Tips for Driving • 26
CHECKLIST - PRETRIP PREPARATIONS • 29
TRIP MESSAGE CENTER • 30
Keypad Keys • 31
REAR VIEW SYSTEM • 31
HITCH • 32
Using the Rear Receiver • 32
Tow Plug Connection • 32
BACKING UP A MOTORHOME • 33
CHECKLIST - SET-UP PROCEDURES • 35
DRY CAMPING TIPS • 37
BREAKING CAMP • 40
EMERGENCY PROCEDURES - ROADSIDE • 42
Light Retractable • 43
Transmission - Rocking Out • 43
Jump Start • 43
TOWING PROCEDURES • 44
Brake - Disabling the Parking Brake • 45
TIRES • 45
The Importance of Air Pressure • 46
How Much Air Should I Carry in My Tires? • 46
Tire Pressure Inflation Guideline • 46
Weight Terms • 47
Weight Chart • 48

WEIGHING THE MOTORHOME • 49
TIRE CHART • 52
Inspecting & Pressure • 53
Tire Rotation • 54
Blocking When Leveling • 54
Storage of Tires - Long Term • 55
In Case of Flat Tire • 56
SPECIFICATIONS - DIMENSIONS CHART • 57
VIEWS • 58
Front & Rear • 58
Roadside & Curbside • 59
SMOKE DETECTOR • 60
Operation • 60
How to Test • 60
Maintenance • 60
Troubleshooting • 61
LP-GAS DETECTOR • 61
Operation • 61
Testing • 62
Alarm • 62
Care • 63
CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR • 63
Operation Instructions • 63
Alarm • 64
Testing • 64
Cleaning • 64
FIRE EXTINGUISHER • 65
Operation • 65
EGRESS EXIT WINDOW • 65

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This section contains information on: driving
tips, emergency situations, towing, safety devices,
weighing the motorhome and tires.

DRIVING & SAFETY

There are significant differences between a passenger automobile and
your new motorhome. You should always be aware of these differences when
traveling. The key for safely operating the motorhome is inspection. Any
defect found may cause problems on the road that will result in lost time and
money. There are several states that require the motorhome be inspected
prior to registration. Know and observe the laws where you will be traveling
as they may vary from state to state. A systematic inspection conducted prior
to moving the motorhome will ensure nothing is overlooked. An inspection
process assists you in becoming familiar with the motorhome. Prior to moving the motorhome begin a general inspection by examining the condition
and area around the motorhome for hazards. Look high and low when walking around the motorhome.

Inspections

The location of the driver’s seat in the motorhome is higher and further to
the left giving a different perspective of the roadway. Rely on the outside
mirrors to line up with the center of the road and to check the conditions
behind you. The dashboard may contain more gauges and controls than are
normally found in passenger automobiles. Become familiar with these gauges
and what they are indicating before starting out.

Familiarize Yourself

All occupants must be furnished with and use seat belts while the
motorhome is moving. The driver’s seat and all other seats designed to carry
passengers while motorhome is in motion are equipped with safety seat belts.
While traveling, do not occupy beds or any seats that do not have a safety belt.
Seat belts must only be used on permanently mounted seats. The driver’s seat
must be locked in the forward facing position while motorhome is in motion.
Do not use a seat belt on more than one person. To fasten the seat belt pull the
belt out of the retractors and insert the tab into the buckle; you will hear a
click when the tab locks into the buckle. Seat belt lengths automatically adjust
to your size and sitting position. Do not route belts over armrest.

Safety Seat Belts

WARNING: Seats must be pointed in a forward position and
seat belts fastened while the motorhome is in motion. Avoid seat
rotation while in transit. Children must not be transported
unrestrained. Infants must be placed in approved safety seats.
Small children must be restrained in child safety seats. Failure
to comply with these rules can cause injury or death.
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Tips for Driving

The motorhome is a complex vehicle and requires an increased level of
driving awareness and attention because of its size and various components.
Due to the motorhome length the turning radius will be much wider than that
of a standard automobile. Always pay close attention to all perimeters of the
motorhome: front, sides, rear, roof and undercarriage, being sure the surrounding area is clear of any obstacles. Utilize the driving mirrors to observe traffic
and parts of the motorhome: tires, bay doors, blind spots, etc. Use a push-pull
method of steering, with both hands parallel on the steering wheel. The
motorhome is also heavier than an automobile, with a higher center of gravity.
These factors affect the reaction time of the motorhome. Swerves and sharp
turns, especially performed at high speeds, could result in the loss of control
of the motorhome. Keep the size of the motorhome in mind and drive with
extra caution to avoid situations which might require quick momentum
changes. Increase your reaction time by paying attention to traffic and road
conditions 12-15 seconds ahead of where the motorhome is at.
The motorhome will travel safely and comfortably at highway speed limits. However, it takes more time to reach highway speed. When passing another vehicle allow extra time and space to complete the pass due to the added
length of the motorhome. When descending a long hill, use the exhaust or
engine brake. The transmission and engine will help control downhill speed
and can extend the service life of the brake lining. The distance required to
stop the motorhome is greater than an automobile. The brakes are designed
for the (GVWR) Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. Practice stopping away from
traffic to get the “feel” of the distance required to stop the motorhome.
When backing up, have the co-pilot stand at the driver’s side rear corner so
the co-pilot remains visible in the driver’s rear view mirror. The co-pilot can
watch for any obstacles and give hand signals during the backing up process.
When traveling, make sure bridges being crossed can support the weight of
the motorhome. Check the tonnage limit of the bridges before crossing them.
Signs should be posted at bridge entrances. Check the posted height of any
overpass or situation where overhead clearance is limited. Keep in mind, road
surfaces may have been repaved or become packed with snow and therefore,
the actual posted clearance height would not apply in such conditions.
Driving Cautions:
• Avoid getting too close to the edge of the road, a soft
shoulder may not support the weight of the
motorhome.
• Side spacing is best maintained by keeping the
motorhome centered in the driving lane.
• Driving lanes in work zones can be uneven, congested
and narrower than usual.
• Be cautious of road debris, it can damage the undercarriage of the motorhome or become lodged in the dual
tires, causing damage to the tires, wheel rims, or tow car.

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• Keep in consideration that posted speed signs are passenger automobile rated. Therefore, an extra awareness of the driving conditions and appropriate speed for a motorhome are necessary, especially on corners and mountain roads.
• Downgrade speed should be at least 5 mph less than upgrade
speed, or downgrade speed should be attainable within 3 seconds
of a brake application.
• Use a 4 second rule when following other vehicles at speeds under 40
mph. Use a 5 second rule when following at speeds over 40 mph.
Right Turns:
The right hand turn can be an intimidating turn which requires negotiation. Many drivers fear they can not make the turn without turning into the other lane, or jumping the
curb. Here are a few tips:
• As the turn approaches look into the mirror to ensure the lane to
the left is clear, then move wide over to the left.
• When you are about to make the turn the left rear wheel should
touch the centerline of the road and your hips should be parallel to
the roadside curb of the corner being turned. This will help aid in
avoiding a premature turn.
• Make the turn slowly.
• Check mirrors frequently. Be aware of the motorhomes necessary
clearances and space management while negotiating the turn.
Left Turns:
• Do not start the turn until the center of the intersection is reached
with your hips. If there are two lanes available, take the right hand
lane. A car or driver on the left hand side is easier seen.
Night Driving:
• As always be well rested and alert when driving. If necessary, find
a safe stopping place to rest until ready to continue.
• Avoid using any interior lights while driving. They can create a
glare on the windshield, decreasing visibility.
• Dim the dash lights to a comfortable level to reduce the level of glare.
Extreme Heat and Hot Weather Conditions:
• Observe all gauges more frequently. Any variation from the normal conditions should be evaluated promptly.
• Check tire pressure more frequently when traveling in hot conditions. Tire air pressure increases with heat. It is not advisable to
let air out of a hot tire. When the tires cool down they will return
to the correct/previous tire pressure.
• Pay extra attention to hoses and belts which are more susceptible
to fatigue in extreme heat.
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Winter and Cold Climate Conditions:
• The motorhome should be prepared for Cold Weather Use.
• Keep speeds slow and steady, make moves gradually and
increase your visual distance for a gain in reaction time.
• If the road or weather conditions are treacherous, find a safe
stopping place and wait for conditions to improve.
• Avoid using engine retarding devices on wet or slippery surfaces, they can cause the drive wheels to skid.
• Wipers should be in good condition and the washer reservoir
should have sufficient window wash fluid that has an
antifreeze included within it.
• Use the mirror heat to keep the mirrors clear.
• Remove any ice build-up from the entry step to avoid any
accidental slipping.
Wet Conditions:
• The risk of hydroplaning is increased if tires are worn or
improperly inflated.
• Be aware that heavy rain or deep standing water can affect
brake application causing them to apply unevenly or grab.
Refueling:
• Truck stops are good refueling points for motorhomes.
• Be aware of which side the fuel port is on. There may not be
adequate space to move around the parking lot in order to
reposition for the pump.
• Check overhead clearance heights before pulling through the
fuel island.
• Be aware of the concrete/steel posts installed around the fuel
island.
• Avoid running over the fuel hose, it can get hung up on the
motorhome, causing body damage.
WARNING: Avoid the risk of fire or explosion. Turn
off all pilot lights and appliances before refueling.

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Before departure several items will need to be prepared. Items to pack.
Preparing the motorhome for travel. Making facility arrangements or just
dry camping along the way. Listed below is a general checklist which may
be used as a guide when preparing to depart.

CHECKLIST
- PRETRIP
PREPARATIONS

Items To Carry:
• Emergency Road Kit (road flares, warning signs, flashlight, fire
extinguisher).
• Local, State and National Maps. Available are truck atlases showing maps, refueling stations and truck repair facilities.
• Potable/non-potable water hoses and a water pressure regulator.
• Hand tools.
• 12 Volt DC test light, this may be helpful when on the phone with
a technician.
• Battery hydrometer, to check the condition of battery electrolyte.
• A spare 12-volt continuous duty solenoid (some models).
Hump Hose Clamp
• An assortment of spare fuses.
• One link kit for ride height control assembly (air suspension only
- see “Checking Ride Height” Chapter 10).
• A spare alternator belt.
• Charge air cooler hump hose clamp.
GB

GARDNER BENDER, INC

Interior:
• If possible, start refrigerator operation the night before departure to
get a head start on the cooling process. Pre-cool items prior to loading the refrigerator.

OPEN
GROUND
OPEN
NUETRAL
OPEN HOT
HOT/GRD
REVERSE
HOT/NEU
REVERSE
CORRECT

Polarity Tester.

NOTE: While traveling, use the inverter to supply power to
the refrigerator. Upon arrival, be sure to turn the inverter
OFF and switch refrigerator operation to LP-Gas or hook
the motorhome to shore power.
• Fill the fresh water tank. Disconnect and store the fresh water hose.
• If necessary, load pots, pans, utensils, soap, linens, etc.
• Secure and fasten the bi-fold and pocket doors. Lock the shower
door.
• Close roof vents and windows.
• Secure any loose, heavy or sharp objects in case of a sudden stop.
• Close all cabinet doors and drawers.
• Walk the interior and check for items not secured.
• Turn interior lighting off.
Engine Checklist:
• Inspect the engine, transmission and the engine compartment for
fluid leaks.
• Inspect the area under the motorhome for fluid leaks or puddles.
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• Check all fluid levels, oil, antifreeze, transmission,
hydraulic fluid and washer fluid.
• Inspect belts and hoses for wear.
• Inspect wiring for loose, frayed or corroded connections.
• Start engine and listen for any unusual noises.
Driving Preparations:
• Check operation of all exterior lights, headlamp, taillight, brake and clearance lights.
• Inspect fluid level (if applicable) in oil bath hubs and
check tire pressure.
• Check house battery condition.
• If applicable, program the navigation system.
• Secure all awning locks.
• Check items in storage bays to prevent shifting or damage to items.
• Outside compartment doors should be closed and locked.
• Look around, above and under the motorhome for
obstructions.
• Check fuel level gauge. Check all other dash gauges for
operation and correct level indications.
• Secure and lock the entry door for travel.

TRIP TEK
(Optional)

The Trip Tek system is simplistic in design. Three programmable
screens help manage trips, engine/transmission status also displays
fuel level and calculated range. The system component consists of a
keypad, a computer and utilizes the rear vision monitor for display. The
keypad has five function keys, each with a single function. The system is
virtually maintenance free.
Key Pad:
• View enables the display on the rear vision monitor.
• Screen enables or disables the display from the rear vision system.
• Rest zeroes out the screen for TODAY and new information for
inputting.
• Arrow Up scrolls the numbers for inputting.
• Arrow Down scrolls the numbers down for inputting.
Screen Displays:
Today Screen will provide daily information.
• Miles to Go displays the remainder of miles to the scheduled
destination.
• Time to Go displays the approximate time to the scheduled
destination based upon miles to go and MPH Average.

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• Mi. Traveled displays the miles traveled since last "Today"
screen reset.
• Time Traveled displays the time traveled since last "Today"
screen reset.
• Fuel Range based upon MPG AVERAGE and GAL IN TANK,
displays approximate miles available for remaining fuel.
• MPG Average displays the average fuel consumption per gallon
since last "Today" screen reset.
Leg Screen provides information from fill to fill.
• MPG Average displays the average fuel consumption per gallon
since last "Leg" screen reset.
• Time Traveled displays the time traveled since last "Leg"
screen reset.
• Mi. Traveled displays the miles traveled since last "Leg" screen
reset.
• Gallons Used displays the gallons of fuel used by the engine
since the last "Leg" screen reset.
• MPG Average displays the average fuel consumption per gallon
since last "Leg" screen reset.
• Gal in tank displays approximate gallon in fuel tank.
Trip Screen display long term data for a complete trip
or longer.
• MPG Average displays the average fuel consumption per gallon
since last "Trip" screen reset.
• HRS Traveled displays the hours traveled since the last "Trip"
screen reset.
• Mi. Traveled displays the miles traveled since last "Trip" screen
reset.
• Gal Used displays the gallons of fuel used by the engine since
the last "Trip" screen reset.
• MPG Average displays the average fuel consumption per gallon
since last "Trip" screen reset.
• MPG Current instantaneous display current fuel consumption in
miles per gal.
Coach Data Screen displays information for the
motorhome and engine performance.
• Gears displays the gears selected and attained.
• Turbo PSI displays the Turbocharger boost pressure.
• Eng. Temp displays the coolant temperature.
• Trans Temp. displays the transmission oil temperature.

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• Road SPD displays the current speed of the motorhome. This
indication is NOT intended to replace the motorhome speedometer.
• MPG Average displays the average miles per gallon for the life of
the motorhome.
• Odometer displays the total distance travel for the life of the
motorhome.

REAR VIEW
SYSTEM

The motorhome is equipped with a rear vision system. This system is
designed to provide the driver with a view of the rear of the motorhome. The
rear vision system consists of a monitor on the dash and a camera located at the
rear of the motorhome. The monitor is equipped with several adjustable features:
• Contract and brightness settings.
• Day/Night dimmer control.
The driver can see what is behind the motorhome. The rear vision system
will automatically turn On when the gear selector is placed in reverse. Turning
the main power switch to ON will allow continuous operation of the rear vision
system when the ignition key is turned ON. For more detailed instructions see
the manufacturer’s manual.

NOTE: The input select button is to remain in the OUT
position.

HITCH

Using the Rear Receiver

When using the rear hitch remember that the
motorhome is intended for towing light loads. The
motorhome is designed to be used primarily as a
recreational vehicle, towing will affect the durability
and economy. Your safety and satisfaction require
proper receiver use. Avoid excessive loads or any
other abuse. Do not use the motorhome to tow anything until it has been driven 500 miles (800 kilometers). Weight pushing down on the rear hitch must
not exceed 1,000 lbs. We recommend weighing the
motorhome when fully loaded, to be certain there is
proper weight distribution of the GCVW (Gross
Combined Vehicle Weight). When weighing the
motorhome add all passenger weight to the GCVW
total. The motorhome fully loaded and any vehicle
or trailer towed by it must not exceed the GCVW.

WARNING: Any trailer being towed
by a motorhome must have adequate
brakes. Failure to follow these
instructions will create a safety hazard and may result in an accident.
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The motorhome is prewired with a trailer wire harness. The harness is
Tow Plug Connection
located on or near the hitch receiver. Convoluted tubing protects the tow harness wires until they are ready for use. Current draw should not exceed ten
amps for each designated circuit.
The tow harness wires are color coded:
1. Brown, 12 gauge - tail lights.
2. White, 12 gauge - ground.
3. Black, 14 gauge - right turn signal.
4. Yellow, 14 gauge - left turn signal.
5. Black w/white stripe, 14 gauge - brake light.
When hooking up a tow plug connection you should strip the wires 3/8”.
Twist the wire and place under the clip and secure the screw. Make sure there
are no loose strands of wire which could short against the case or other terminals.
If your destination does not have “pull-through” sites, try to pick a solid,
level site. If possible, pick a site located on the left side. This is the preferred
side. The driver will have a better field of vision by using the driver side mirror. If the site is on the right side the driver will have to use the passenger
side mirror for backing up, which leaves a blind spot. When a potential site is
spotted, stop the motorhome before the site. Get out and observe the area for
soft ground, posts, large rocks, low hanging limbs or other obstacles. If the
site meets your particular criteria, prepare to back in carefully.
Whether you are a long time owner of recreational vehicles or just starting out, backing up can be a challenge. Following some simple helpful
guidelines may help reduce the challenge. When backing up, the driver
(pilot) should be comfortable using the mirrors, the back-up camera and the
co-pilot’s directions (ground guide) for assistance. Practice first, backing up
with the co-pilot’s guidance in a large unobstructed parking lot. It is a team
effort.
The backing up process should begin while the motorhome is in forward
motion. Maneuver the motorhome to align it with the chosen site. This
allows straight alignment with the site. Aligning the motorhome with the site
after the backing process begins will require considerably more room than an
automobile, and may require more than one attempt. When the motorhome is
properly aligned with the site the parking area will be visible in both mirrors.
Use straight lines, such as road markings, as reference points when possible.
The co-pilot will perform just as important a job as the driver. When
guiding the driver, the co-pilot should be located safely at the left rear corner
of the motorhome, facing forward, while remaining visible in the driver side
mirror at all times. The co-pilot should make a conscious effort to maintain
sight of the driver through the driver side mirror as the front of the
motorhome maneuvers. If the driver loses sight of the co-pilot, stop the backWINDSOR

BACKING UP
A MOTORHOME

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ing up process until the co-pilot returns to view. To avoid mishaps the copilot should be focused only on what the driver is doing, with brief observation moments. The driver should receive directions only from the co-pilot. If
necessary, stop the backing up process to have co-pilot inspect other areas or
angles of concern. Use of walkie-talkies will aid in guidance.
When the co-pilot is guiding the driver only five clearly defined signals
should be used, with only one signal given at a time. Flailing arms with indecisive signals only confuse the driver. Signals should be given with purpose
and confidence. Directional signals are directing travel of the rear of the
motorhome.
If desired direction is left, the co-pilot points left. For example: The copilot will use his/her right arm and forefinger pointing distinctly left with
arm and finger held on a horizontal plane, indicating desired direction of
travel of the rear of the motorhome. This type of directional signal is easily
discerned in the mirror by the driver. The directional signal given will remain
steady until desired movement is completed.
The five directional signals are:
1. Co-pilot uses left hand and arm held horizontal,
with forefinger pointing right, to direct rear of
motorhome to the right.
2. Co-pilot uses right hand and arm held horizontal,
with forefinger pointing left, to direct rear of
motorhome to the left.
3. Co-pilot uses both arms and hands parallel with
thumbs pointing up and to rear in a waving vertical
motion. This signals driver to maintain a straight
back direction.
4. Co-pilot holds arms vertically, hands open with
palms facing one another. Start with a wide
separation, gradually closing distance of hands, in a
rate appropriate to vehicle speed, to indicate amount
of distance to stop point.
5. Closed fists indicates STOP.
Trailers:
Trailers have only one pivot point. Trailers may be backed up. Towed
vehicles using a tow bar or tow dolly have more than one pivoting point.
This makes this type of equipment not suitable for backing. If using this type
of towing equipment, plan ahead. Park safely along the road and walk a distance if necessary to avoid a possible back up situation. Try to avoid putting
the motorhome and tow vehicle in a backing situation. The only way to back
up this combination is to completely disconnect the tow vehicle from
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motorhome. Trying to back up this combination, even as small as a foot, will
result in damage to the motorhome, tow vehicle and towing device.
The same rules for backing a motorhome may be applied when backing a
trailer. When preparing to back a trailer into a space, maneuver the tow vehicle sweeping wide, then turn back to the opposite direction. This will set the
motorhome and trailer in a position to maneuver the trailer into space. When
backing a trailer, the driver may become disoriented with the direction of the
steering wheel and the direction of the trailer. A tip here is to move the bottom of the steering wheel in the desired direction of the trailer. For example:
If the desired direction of the trailer is left, rotate the bottom of the steering
wheel left. If the trailer moves in an undesired direction, use a short “pullup” method, pulling forward just far enough to align the trailer with the
space. The co-pilot should stand safely at the left rear corner of the trailer
within view of the driver in the driver side mirror, using the five hand signals
for guiding.

CAUTION: Tow bars or car dollies generally are made to
travel in a forward direction only. Most towing equipment
of this type is not designed for backing. Never attempt
short back up distances with a tow bar or tow dolly.
Damage to the motorhome, vehicle or towing device will
result.
If the site for the motorhome has full hook-ups, use this quick reference
hook-up checklist. This hook-up list is only a guide. This checklist has information on hooking up the utilities and preparing the appliances for use.
Specific information on the slide room, awning and leveling system operations is discussed in detail in other sections.

CHECKLIST SET UP
PROCEDURES

For more detailed information refer to the section pertaining to the
item of interest.
• If applicable, unlock any travel locks which may be
securing the slide room awning. Check for lateral
clearance before extending the slide out room.

NOTE: To operate the kitchen slide: The ignition must be
OFF, the park brake must be set and the bay doors
directly under the slide room must be closed.
CAUTION: Before leveling the motorhome survey the
area around and under the motorhome for obstructions
which can damage the motorhome or undercarriage components when the air bags are deflated.

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• Follow the procedures and guidelines for “Leveling
the Motorhome.” If the motorhome is equipped with
hydraulic jacks, be certain the parking surface will
accommodate the weight placed on the jacks.

CAUTION: Hot asphalt may not support the weight that
is placed on the hydraulic jack pads. Place thick plywood
under the jack pads to help disperse the weight. Never
use the leveling system to support the entire weight of the
motorhome. Damage from excessive torsional twists can
result.
• Open the LP-Gas tank valve.
• If possible, begin appliance operation on LP-Gas for
the first 60 minutes. This will allow time for the
inverter to stabilize the battery charging. Switch the
refrigerator operation to gas, start the water heater
and furnace (if needed).
• Prepare the shore cord to be plugged in. Uncoil and
inspect the cord. Perform any necessary cord maintenance. Install proper electrical adapters if anything
other than 50 amp service is provided. Operate electrical appliances in sequence when hooked to a limited shore power service. Turn shore power circuit
breaker OFF prior to plugging in the shore cord.

CAUTION: If shore power service is limited to 15 or 20
amps, use of light duty extension cords and electrical
adapters will create a voltage loss through the cord and at
each electrical connection. Line voltage loss and the
resistance at each electrical connection can be a hazardous combination. Damage to sensitive electronic
equipment may result!
• If cable service is provided, hook-up a 75 Ohm or
RG6 cable to the cable connection in the service center. If the motorhome has a video selector box press
the appropriate viewing button for the item desired.
• A phone connection port is provided in the service
center. Phone utility outlets are placed throughout the
motorhome, including a phone line attached to the
satellite receiver for Pay Per View movies and events.
• Hook a potable water hose to the city water connection in the service center. A water pressure regulator
is built in. Turn the hand valve so the pointer indicates “city water.”
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NOTE: A water pressure regulator attached
between the city water faucet and the
potable fresh water hose will protect the
hose from swelling or bursting under high
city water pressure. Securing the pressure
regulator to the hose with pliers will prevent
the regulator from being misplaced.
• Hook-up the sewer hose. Sewer drain pipe diameters
are generally either three or four inches. Proper
sewer hose adapters will ensure against leaks or
spillage. With the sewer hose properly connected
open the grey water valve (small valve). The black
water valve (large valve) remains closed until the
tank is full or until time of departure.

With a little planning and conservation of resources, dry camping will be
no more difficult than using full hook ups.
Dry camping requires fully charged and maintained batteries (corrosion
cleaned, terminals tightened, cables checked, etc.). If the battery water needs
to be refilled, use only distilled water. Water containing high concentrates of
chemicals will ruin the batteries.

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DRY CAMPING
TIPS

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Battery State of Charge VS Voltage/Specific Gravity
VOLTAGE

SPECIFIC
GRAVITY

STATE OF
CHARGE

DEPTH OF
DISCHARGE

12.66

1.265

100%

0%

12.45

1.225

75%

25%

12.25

1.19

50%

50%

12.05

1.145

25%

75%

11.90

1.100

0%

100%

Verify the fresh water tank is full and empty the holding tanks. Many dry
camping sites have a running waterspout at the site. Do not refill the fresh tanks
at the site without first emptying the waste holding tanks as they will be unable
to hold the extra waste water.
Equip the motorhome with solar panels. Solar panels are a valuable tool in
keeping the batteries charged. If the motorhome is equipped with two panels, the
first will sustain the parasitic loads. The second panel (and third if available) will
charge the battery during the sunlight hours. Keep in mind the solar panels require
regular cleaning. Dust, dirt, grime and pollution from the road and air can
decrease their efficiency. Clean the solar panels with a spray window cleaner
using a soft cloth.
Have a full tank of diesel fuel, gasoline or LP-Gas, depending on what type
of generator you have.
There are plenty of dry camping locations with suitable sites that can accommodate a motorhome. Confirm with the campground host that a particular facility
will accommodate a motorhome. Arrive at the campground during daylight
hours so you can properly park the RV and prepare for the night ahead. Getting
to the site on the narrow and winding campground roads takes skill and patience
to avoid the low hanging limbs and tree trunks lining the path. Have the co-pilot
or the campground host assist with maneuvering the motorhome around the
curves and bends.
Because hookups are not a concern, take the extra time to ensure proper
setup. Make sure there is plenty of room to extend the slide-out room(s). When
dumping the air bags and leveling the motorhome, remember that the leveling
process will drain some of the battery power.
For units equipped with auto leveling be sure no people or pets are moving in
the coach during the leveling process. Manual leveling will be less critical.

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Setting up for dry camping:
• Turn the refrigerator off auto and switch over to gas.
• Switch the water heater to LP-Gas and turn it on about an hour
before hot water is needed.
• Set the furnace to a desired nighttime temperature and keep it a
bit cooler to prevent the furnace from cycling all through the
night.
• Check on small items that use battery power, such as the porch
light, bay lights, under step light, generator compartment lights,
engine compartment lights, etc. If the television is not being
used, turn off the 12 Volt booster. One light left on, such as
under the front cap near the wipers, can reduce the battery considerably. Do not forget to check the engine block heater in the
event it has been plugged into the outlet and is operating a
1,400-watt element when the inverter is on. In a case like that,
the batteries will not stay up for even 12 hours.
• Some battery draw has to be left on. Leave the battery kill
switch on at the entry door because the eyebrow in the refrigerator (some models) requires 12 Volts to operate. In most
motorhomes, even though it is switched to gas, the furnace
requires 12 Volts to operate the fan.
• Keep flashlights handy. If some nighttime hours are to be spent
outdoors, build a campfire. Illuminate the vicinity around the
outside of the motorhome with some inexpensive tiki torches.
Just remember to transport the torches empty of fuel (keep the container in the storage bay) and extinguish the flames before retiring for the night. Many campgrounds place wood or cement barriers between the site space and fire pit. Be sure to illuminate
any barriers or obstacles in the pathway to the motorhome.
• A large size flashlight positioned at the front door is perfect for
navigating through the coach during the dark of night without having to use the interior lights. If interior lights are needed, remove
excess bulbs in the fixtures to conserve on battery usage. Just
one bulb in a central location, such as the vanity, will be sufficient.
• During the day it is still important to conserve on energy. Turn
on the water pump only when using water; get in the habit of
turning the pump off when not in use. While the water pump
does not draw an abundance of power, the battery amp hours
while dry camping are important and should be conserved.

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• If it is too early or too late in the day to run the generator, use
the inverter. Remember to turn off the inverter when not in use.
When the rest of the campground is up and about, turn on the
generator and run it for a couple of hours. The generator may
seem loud and intrusive, however, the noise is minimal just a
short distance away from the coach. Run the generator during
clean up and preparation for the day.
• Check the monitor panel frequently and keep track of the water
usage and battery consumption. Routinely check the LP-Gas and
remember that more gas is used in cold weather.
• Careful management of water is critical when dry camping. Know
the motorhome tank capacities. Picture the amount of liquid it takes
to fill a two-gallon container and visualize that amount each time
you run the water. If you are dry camping for a time, limit the
shower usage. Turn the water off when soaping down in the
shower. If water conservation is a must, take a sponge bath.
Conserve water while brushing your teeth or join the tent campers
at the outdoor water spigot. Chances are a campground without
hookups will not have large comfortable shower rooms or bathrooms. It may only be equipped with a primitive outhouse, however, if it helps to economize on water, use it.
• Do not fill a sink full of water to wash a few dishes. Use disposable
dishes whenever possible. Cook dinner over the campfire.
However, if cooking over the campfire is not desired, use the
microwave. If you choose to use the microwave, do not run the
microwave with just battery power and the inverter because battery
power will be consumed quickly. Use the generator to operate the
microwave. It is healthy for the generator to run under a strong
load such as the microwave.
• Allow the generator to power up for five minutes before plugging in
a load.
• Plan ahead what is needed from the refrigerator prior to opening
it to conserve the battery power. If the weather does not permit
eating out at the picnic table (or if no picnic table is available),
eat at the dinette table by candlelight. Leave shoes outdoors to
avoid having to run the vacuum cleaner. Open the windows during
the day instead of running the air conditioner.
• Get back to nature and still enjoy the comforts of the motorhome.
With a little imagination, the ways to stretch out available
resources while dry camping are endless. Camping without
hookups is nothing to fear – it is a challenge to overcome. It will
be a pleasant surprise to discover how little of an inconvenience
dry camping can be.

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Listed below is a checklist guide to reference when preparing to break
camp. Preparing the motorhome for travel will require several small tasks.
Properly securing and storing items will help prevent them from getting lost
or being damaged during travel.

BREAKING CAMP

Outside checklist:
• Disconnect the cable TV, lower the television antenna
and (if applicable) the satellite dish.
• Retract the awnings and secure them for travel.
• Close LP-Gas tank valve. Check the level of the LPGas Tank to ensure a sufficient amount is available.
• Drain and flush the holding tanks. First close the grey
water valve, run enough cold water down the sink
and shower drains until the grey tank is at least 50%
full. Be careful not to overfill or flood the grey tank.
Next, open the black tank valve allowing the drain
cycle to complete. If applicable, connect a nonpotable water hose to the No-Fuss hose bib and flush
the black tank system. Close the black tank valve,
open the grey water valve. The water from the grey
tank will help flush the solids from the drain hose.
• Disconnect the sewer hose, flush hose with clean
water from non-potable hose, store the hose. Install
the sewer cap.
• Fill the fresh water tank. Disconnect and store the
fresh water hose. Remove any hose protected water
pressure regulator from the city water faucet.
• Turn shore power breaker off and disconnect the shore
line. Wind up and store the shore cord.
• Disconnect and stow the phone line.
• Inspect fluid level in oil bath hubs and check tire pressure.
Engine Checklist:
• Inspect the engine, transmission and the engine compartment for fluid leaks.
• Inspect the area under the motorhome for fluid leaks
or puddles.
• Check all fluid levels: oil, antifreeze, transmission,
hydraulic fluid and washer fluid.
• Inspect belts and hoses for wear.
• Inspect wiring for loose, frayed or corroded connections.
• Start engine and listen for any unusual noises.

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Interior Checklist:
• If applicable, retract leveling jacks allowing the air
suspension to obtain proper ride height.
• If applicable, clear the slide room path, clean the floor,
move the driver seat forward and make sure the bay
doors are shut. Once the slide room is fully retracted,
secure any slide room awning locks.

NOTE: To operate the kitchen slide: The ignition must be
OFF, the park brake must be set and the bay doors under
the slide room must be closed.
• Secure and fasten the bi-fold and pocket doors. Lock the
shower door.
• Close roof vents and windows.
• Secure any loose, heavy or sharp objects in case of a
sudden stop.
• Close all cabinet doors and drawers.
• Start engine, turn off water heater, water pump and
furnace. If applicable, turn inverter ON. Switch
refrigerator operation to electric. Be sure to turn
inverter OFF and switch refrigerator operation back
to LP-Gas or hook-up the motorhome to shore power
upon arrival.
Departure Checklist:
• Check items in storage bays to make sure shifting or
damage of items will not occur.
• Look around, above and under the motorhome for
obstructions.
• Walk around the motorhome and camp area checking
for forgotten items.
• Outside compartment doors should be closed and
locked.
• Check operation of all exterior lights, headlamp, taillamp, brake and clearance lights.
• Walk through the interior and check for any unsecured
items.
• Turn the interior lighting off.
• Check the fuel level gauge. Check all other dash
gauges for operation and correct level indications.
• Carefully pull forward out of the campsite. If necessary, clean the site and check for any forgotten items.
• Secure and lock the entry door for travel.

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If an emergency situation should occur, use the appropriate braking technique and pull off the roadway a safe distance from traffic (if possible) then
set the parking brake. Turn ON the hazard warning flashers especially when
parked alongside traffic lanes. In the event of an emergency stop due to a
mechanical breakdown or other motorhome related problems: contact
Monaco Coach Corporation Customer Support (1-877-466-6226) or your
emergency services provider.
An emergency road kit should include: Three reflective warning signs,
road flares, flashlight, spare automotive fuses, an assortment of hand tools.
For added safety, a separate fire extinguisher should be considered. The
motorhome is equipped with a fire extinguisher located inside next to the copilot seat. Road flares or reflective warning signs can be displayed if the
motorhome is alongside of the road for any length of time.
Guidelines for placing the warning triangles depend upon the road characteristics and visibility. For example: The standard placement is 10 feet, 100
feet and 200 feet from the rear of the motorhome when on a divided highway
or one-way road. On a two-way road with traffic traveling both directions the
same placement would also be required at the front of the motorhome. Roads
with curves and hills may require the placement of the last/furthest triangle
to be 500 feet behind the motorhome in order to safely warn approaching
traffic.

1. The retractable light is located in the roadside front
compartment. To activate the light: move the switch
to the ON position.
2. The light has an 18’ retractable reel cord. To operate:
lift the lever and pull the light out.
3. The base of the light is magnetic, allowing for handsfree operation.
4. To replace the bulb: push down on the clear plastic
cover and twist.
5. To rewind: crank the handle in the retract direction.
When fully retracted, push down on the lock handle
to secure the light into place.

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Light - Retractable

Retractable Reel Light.

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It may be possible to rock the motorhome out if you are stuck in snow,
mud or deep sand. Shift the selector to D (Drive) and apply steady light
throttle. Never full throttle as you may spin the wheels and bury yourself
deeper. When the motorhome has moved forward as far it will go, apply and
hold the service brakes. Allow the engine to return to idle before selecting
the R (Reverse). Release the brake and apply light throttle until the
motorhome has rocked as far it will go. Again, apply the service brake and
allow the engine to return to idle. Repeat this process if the motorhome has
moved a greater distance. If the process does not free the motorhome, call for
towing assistance.

NOTE: Sudden movements or lurching the motorhome
with an open throttle can result in damage to the transmission. Avoid this condition by making shifts only when
the throttle is closed and engine is at normal idle.

Jump Start

When using jumper cables to start the engine, make sure the cables are
connected in parallel. That is positive (+) to positive (+) and negative (-) to
negative (-). Always connect your positive (+) before the negative (-) and
disconnect the negative (-) before the positive (+) to prevent arcing. When
using an external electrical source to start the engine, shut the disconnect
switch to OFF position.
Batteries can emit explosive gases. Always ventilate the battery compartment prior to any work or service to the batteries. Extinguish all smoking
material and keep all open flame and spark producing devices away from
battery area.
In the event of a roadside emergency, contact the nearest Cummins Center
or phone 800-343-7357 for Cummins Customer Assistance Center.

WARNING: The gases around the battery can explode if
exposed to flames, sparks or lit cigarettes. An explosion
can result in injury or vehicle damage. Batteries contain
sulfuric acid, which burns skin, eyes and clothing. Do not
connect the end of the second cable to the negative (-) terminal of the battery to be jumped. A spark may cause
and explosion of the gases that surround the battery.
Connect only to chassis, away from the battery.

TOWING PROCEDURES

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If a towing company is called for service it is recommended that
they use a lowboy/landall type of trailer and if a tow truck is used it
needs to have a stinger (an arm that goes under motorhome and
hooks to front cross member). Inform the tow company of the
weight and length of the motorhome, number of passengers and
milepost location.
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The towing company may need to locate the air nipple to release the air
brakes. The air nipple is located on the roadside next to the generator and
should only be used by towing personnel. Generally, if the motorhome ever
needs to be towed, use the following instructions:
• Secure any loose or protruding parts if the motorhome
is damaged.
• Inspect points of attachment on a disabled
motorhome. If attachment points are damaged, select
other attachment points at a substantial frame structural member.
• Never allow anyone to go under a motorhome while it is
being lifted by towing equipment unless the disabled
motorhome is adequately supported by safety stands.
• Do not tow the motorhome from the rear. Towing
from the rear will cause the front tires and suspension
to be seriously overloaded, possibly resulting in a tire
or front suspension failure. Rear frame extensions are
not designed to withstand weight loads imposed by
lifting the rear of the motorhome.
• If rear wheels are disabled, place the motorhome on a
flat bed trailer or use a heavy duty dolly under the
rear wheels and tow from the front of the motorhome.
• The drive shaft must be removed to prevent damage
to the transmission.

WARNING: In the event the motorhome requires towing, ensure all precautions are followed. The driveline
must be disconnected and the mudflap may need to be
removed. When towing a motorhome equipped with the
HWH Air-Leveling System, the ignition MUST be left in
the ON position so that air suspension may operate.
Damage to the motorhome from a towing company will
not be covered by Monaco Coach Corporation.
• Block wheels securely before attempting this procedure.
• Remove the plug from the center rear brake chamber.
Save plug for reuse.
• Remove the caging tool from its holder on the rear
brake chambers and insert it into the hole. Turn the
tool clockwise to engage.
• Use a wrench to tighten the nut down, which compresses the internal spring, releasing the brake.

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Brake - Disabling the
Parking Brake

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• Repeat procedure for the other side.
• After towing, or when air pressure is again available,
loosen the nut and remove the tool. Return the tool to
its original location and replace the plug.
• Repeat process for the other side.

WARNING: Do not attempt to disassemble brake chambers without special tools and without having studied
specific manufacturer’s instructions. Chambers contain
springs under very high tension. Improper handling
could result in component damage or personal injury.

TIRES

The tire designed for the motorhome is a very technical and precisely
engineered product. To obtain the maximum wear and best service out of the
tires, it is helpful to understand the function of a tire. A tire is a “container”
that holds air. It is the combination of air and tire casing that supports the
motorhome and its contents. In addition, since the tire is the only contact the
motorhome has with the road surface, it must provide other functions such as
traction for moving, stopping, steering and providing a cushion for the
motorhome.

The Importance
Of Air Pressure

The most important factor in maximizing the life of the tires is maintaining proper inflation. Driving on any tire that does not have the correct inflation pressure for the load of the motorhome is dangerous and may cause premature wear, tire damage and/or loss of control of the motorhome.
A tire that is underinflated will build up excessive heat that may go
beyond the design limits of the rubber and radial cords. This could result in
sudden failure. A tire that is underinflated will also cause poor motorhome
handling, rapid and/or irregular tire wear and an increase in rolling resistance
which results in a decrease of fuel economy.
Over-inflation will reduce the tire’s footprint/contact patch with the road,
thus reducing traction, braking capacity and handling of the motorhome. A
tire that is over-inflated for the load will have a harsh ride, uneven tire wear
and becomes susceptible to impact damage.
Maintaining correct tire inflation pressure for each loaded wheel position
on the motorhome is of the utmost importance and must be a part of regular
motorhome maintenance.

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Federal law requires that the specifications for the tire’s maximum load
rating be molded into the sidewall of the tire. The amount of air pressure to
use is dependent on the weight of the motorhome when it is fully loaded. The
chart within this section shows weights that can be supported by various air
pressures. Utilizing less air pressure means a lesser load can be carried by the
tire.

How Much Air
Should I Carry in
My Tires?

Always comply with the tire manufacturer’s recommended pressure inflation guideline. The actual weight of the motorhome can vary significantly
depending on how it is loaded. Periodical adjustment to comply with the tire
manufacturer’s guideline will provide for the optimum ride and handling. A
tire inflation chart listing proper inflation for different loading conditions of
various size tires is contained in this section of the manual.
Monaco Coach Corporation inflates the tires of the motorhome to pressure(s) appropriate for the actual weight on each axle in the unloaded,
shipped condition. When the motorhome is loaded, it is important to check
and adjust the inflation pressure on each tire as needed.
Always inflate tires at a pressure high enough to handle the actual load on
the tires. DO NOT OVERINFLATE THE TIRES.

Tire Pressure
Inflation Guideline

The Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of the axles listed on the federal
certification label attached to the motorhome is the maximum allowable
loaded weight on an axle. When the actual loaded weight of the motorhome
and the weight on each axle is unknown, follow the federal certification label
recommended tire inflation pressure(s). When loading a motorhome never
exceed the motorhome’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) or the
GAWR for each axle.
Contact the tire manufacturer for further information concerning proper
tire pressure inflation and other tire issues.
The GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and GAWR (Gross Axle
Weight Rating) stickers on the motorhome (normally located on the support
pillar next to the driver’s seat) will show the chassis manufacturer’s and/or
the RV manufacturer’s total vehicle maximum weight ratings and per axle
weight rating.
The GVWR is the maximum total weight for which the motorhome is
rated-including passengers, fluids, and cargo. The GAW. is the maximum for
which a single axle is designed. These per axle and total maximum weight
ratings could be limited by the tires, wheels, axle and axle bearings, the
motorhome frame or other components of the motorhome.
The GAWR sticker is only a guide in knowing the maximum loaded axle
weights, and subsequently the correct tire inflation pressure. Every RV, even
of the same make and model, will vary in actual loaded axle weights because
of different options and personal loads.

Weight Terms

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While the actual loaded axle weight should be below the GAWR, you must
weigh your motorhome in a loaded condition to know its actual weight. Weigh
the front axle, the total unit and the rear axle. It is possible for a motorhome to
be within the GVWR yet overloaded on an axle. It is even possible for one
wheel position to be overloaded, even though the GAWR has not been exceeded. For this reason (if there is room to the sides of the scales) weigh each
wheel position of the motorhome. This will give a clear indication of exactly
how the weight of the motorhome is distributed. These instructions and diagrams are presented on the following pages. When the total weight, and the
weight on each axle is known, the tire load data chart in this manual will show
you the correct cold inflation pressure per tire for each axle.
There are two important factors to consider when loading the motorhome:
total weight and balance. When loading heavy objects keep them as low as
possible, preferably on the floor. Load weight must be distributed as evenly as
possible. The following is an explanation of commonly used weight abbreviations.

Weight Chart

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Improperly inflated tires or suspension that is incorrectly loaded can
result in poor fuel economy, poor handling and over-stressed chassis components. Vehicle loading affects tire inflation pressure and the load carried by
each axle. Motorhome axle configuration and floor plan styles will require
different weighing procedures.

WEIGHING THE
MOTORHOME

WARNING: Improperly inflated or overloaded tires can cause
a blowout. An overloaded axle can cause a component failure of
the suspension system. Tire blowouts or broken suspension
components can lead to loss of vehicle control resulting in property damage, personal injury or death.
CAUTION: If actual weight carried by any tire is below the
tire chart weight specification, then a minimum tire pressure of
at least 75 psi. must be maintained. Tire pressure below 75 psi.
can overheat and damage the tire casing leading to premature
tire failure or blowout.
Slide-Out Tire Pressure:
A motorhome equipped with slide-out room(s) will weigh slightly heavier
on the driver side. Tire inflation pressures between the driver side and passenger side will differ. More air pressure will be required in the driver side
tires due to the added weight on that side.
NOTE: When weighing a slide-out motorhome, each tire must
be weighed independently to obtain the correct weight carried
by each tire.
Scales
Certified public scales are located in a variety of places such as moving
and storage lots, farm suppliers with grain elevators, gravel pits, recycling
companies and large commercial truck stops.
If you are not aware of a nearby public scale, check the local area telephone book yellow pages under “scales-public” section or “weighers.” A
nominal fee will be charged, but this is money wisely spent.
Weight scale types and weighing methods will affect the procedure used
to determine proper tire inflation pressure and axle loading. The size of some
scales will allow the entire motorhome to fit on the scale, which will read the
GVW with only one scale recording required. Other scales are designed to
weigh only one axle at a time, which may require two or three scale readings
to determine the GAW or GVW total. Some scales will read only one wheel
position at a time due their physical size. Several scale readings may be
required to determine the GAW or GVW total.
Slide-out equipped motorhomes will require each wheel position to be
weighed. This is referred to as a four corner weigh. Slide-out motorhomes
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with a Tag Axle will require a six position weigh. This type of weighing procedure will accurately determine what the correct tire inflation pressure should
be. Depending on the type of scale being used, several different scale readings
may be required.
NOTE: The most accurate method to determine proper tire
pressure is a four corner weigh. A slide-out motorhome will
require each tire to be weighed independently. Weighing an axle
will net the total weight carried by that axle. When calculating
the drive axle dual tire pressure using a independent corner
weigh method, divide the total weight by two to determine the
weight carried by each tire. When weighing the entire drive axle,
divide the total weight by four to determine the approximate
weight carried by each tire.
Example:
The motorhome must be weighed fully loaded to obtain accurate scale
readings and to determine the proper tire pressure.
• Take the rear axle Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)
and divide it by two. Record the figure next to scale B
GAWR ÷ 2. Example: If rear axle GAWR is 13,000
lbs. GAWR ÷ 2 would be 6,500 lbs.
• Weigh the driver’s side rear corner (scale B) and record
the scale reading next to Gross Axle Weight (GAW)
for scale B. Example: Scale B reading is 5100 lbs.
• Repeat procedure for the rest of the scale readings.
• Add the GAWR from scales B and D and enter the sum
next to the final GAWR. Example 13,000.
• Add the GAW from scales B and D and enter this sum
next to the final GCAW. Example: 10,000.
• Compare scale readings GCAW against GAWR readings. All figures on line 2 are not to exceed figures on
line 1.
• Use tire chart with scale reading to determine correct
tire pressure.
NOTE: Scale readings and Gross Axle Weight Ratings are fictitious. Actual scale readings and Gross Axle Weight Ratings will
vary with model and options.

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Rear
Scale 1.GAWR ÷ 2 (6,500)
B
2.GAW (5100)
+

1.GAWR (13,000)
2. GCAW (10,000)

=

Scale 1. GAWR ÷ 2 (6,500)
D
2. GAW (4,900)
Weighing a two axle non slide motorhome.
• Record the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR)
and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).
• Weigh and record each wheel position or total
axle weight.
• If necessary, adjust the payload so the GAWR is
not exceeded. Total combined weights must not
exceed the GVWR.
• Using the tire chart, locate the recommended air
pressure for the weight carried by each tire.
Adjust the tire pressure accordingly.
GAWR (Rear)
GAWR (Front)
+
GAW (Rear)

GAW (Front)

+

=

GCVW

=

GCAW

Weighing a two axle slide-out motorhome.
• Slide rooms must be in the retracted position.
• Record the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR)
and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).
• Weigh and record the weight placed on each tire.
• If necessary, adjust the payload so the GAWR is
not exceeded. Total combined weights must not
exceed the GVWR.
• Using the tire chart, locate the recommended air
pressure for the weight carried by each tire.
Adjust the tire pressure accordingly.
Front

Rear
Scale GAWR ÷ 2
B
GAW
+

Scale
A
=

GAWR
Scale
C
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GAW

GAWR
+

GCAW

Scale GAWR ÷ 2
D
GAW

GAWR ÷ 2

=

GCAW

GAWR ÷ 2
GAW
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TIRE CHART

Monaco Coach Corporation is not the author of this chart and makes no representation or warranty concerning
the accuracy of the information disclosed by the chart. Monaco is not responsible for the accuracy of the information disclosed or for any errors within the Tire Inflation Chart.

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Check the tire pressure regularly. If a tire is punctured by a nail or screw,
creating a slow leak, it may eventually be spotted if it is a front tire or an
outside rear dual. However, if there is a leak on an inside dual, the chances of
spotting it without an air pressure check are very slim. If you begin driving
unaware that an inside dual tire has a low air pressure or is flat, very quickly
(in most cases a few miles) the outside rear tire (next to the low air pressure
tire) will heat up from carrying double the load, leading to failure of the outside dual tire. The motorhome will end up with two tires flat on the same
side on the same axle.
The air pressure should be checked every two weeks or at least once a
month and before any major trip. The RV tire air pressure should be checked
every “drive” morning on both long and short trips (driving a day or less).
The tires should be checked before leaving on a trip and again before you
start your trip home. If the motorhome is stored for any length of time the air
pressure should be checked prior to storage. More importantly, check the tire
pressure when it is pulled out of storage.
Check the tire pressure when the tires are “cold” and have not been driven for more than one mile. The stated load capacity for a given cold inflation
pressure is based on ambient outside temperature. If you must check the tires
when they are warm or hot, allow for a slight increase in air pressure and
make sure they are within a couple of pounds of each other on the same axle
(does not apply to slide-out equipped motorhomes). Never let air out of a hot
tire.
To check or maintain the inflation pressure in the tires, use a quality truck
tire air gauge which has an angle dual head. This type of gauge will allow
you to check inflation of the inner dual wheel which has the valve stem
pointing outward. The outer wheel which has the valve stem pointing inward.
Nothing should restrict the ability to check the tire’s air pressure daily when
traveling in the motorhome. Pressure sealing valve caps should always be
used to prevent air from escaping from the valve stem. If there are valve
stem extension hoses, make sure they are good quality stainless steel braid
reinforced and are securely anchored to the outer wheel.
Optimum tire performance is achieved with proper inflation pressures for
the loads being carried. The air pressure of all tires should be checked and
corrected prior to travel, or daily if in full time use.
Tires of different patterns should not be mixed on the same axle. The difference in tractive force could cause rear end gear fight and mechanical damage to the drive train. Tires of different size or construction must never be
mixed on the same axle.

Inspecting & Tire
Pressure

Higher than recommended pressure can cause:
• Hard ride.
• Tire bruising or carcass damage.
• Rapid tread wear at center of tire.

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Lower than recommended pressure can cause:
• Tire squeal on turns.
• Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread.
• Tire rim bruises and rupture.
• Tire cord breakage.
• High tire temperatures.
• Reduced handling.
• High fuel consumption.
Unequal tire pressures on same axle can cause:
• Uneven braking, swerve of acceleration.
• Steering lead, torque steer.
• Reduced handling.

Tire Rotation

Tire rotation can increase the useful life of the tires by achieving uniform
wear on all of the tires. The first tire rotation is the most important. The tire
rotation pattern used for the motorhome should be evaluated by the tire
manufacturer. Any unusual or unique wear pattern which may have developed
should be evaluated before rotation. Misalignment, imbalance or other mechanical problems may exist and will need corrected prior to rotation.
The tire rotation should be performed every 6,000 to 8,000 miles, or at any
sign of uneven wear. After a tire rotation, the inflation pressures should be
checked and adjusted for the actual loads of the wheel position accordingly.
Tires are covered by the tire manufacturer. Holiday Rambler is not responsible for tire wear.

Blocking
- When Leveling

Extreme caution must be taken to ensure that the tires are fully supported
when placing blocks under the tires. The load on the tire should be evenly distributed on the block. In the case of dual tires, distribute the load evenly on blocks
for both tires. If not properly blocked, the steel cables in the sidewall of the tires
may be damaged and could lead to premature fatigue of the sidewall.
Proper Cleaning:
Road oil will cause deterioration of the rubber. Dirt buildup will help hold
chemicals in the air next to the tire and will also cause deterioration.
When cleaning any rubber product, proper care and methods in cleaning
must be used to obtain the maximum service years out of the tires. Use a soft
brush and a mild detergent to clean tires. Use a soft brush and a mild detergent
to clean the tires. If a dressing product is used to “protect” the tires from agin,
use extra care and caution. Tire dressings that contain petroleum products or
alcohol may cause deterioration or cracking.
In many cases it is not the dressing that causes a problem but the chemical
reaction that subsequently occurs. When these same dressing products are used

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on a passenger car tire that is replaced every three to four years, it is rare to
see a major problem. However, in most cases, RV tires may last longer due
to limited annual mileage and exposure.

The RV is designed for recreation, not long-term storage. however, unless
you are living in your motorhome full-time you willhave a need to store it.
Rubber tires age faster when not being used. A cool, dry, sealed garage is the
preferred method of storage. Many Rv’s are stored outside in the elements.
Some storage surfaces may cause tires to age prematurely. Placing a barrier
(i.e. cardboard, plastic or plywood) between the tire and storage floor/ground
surface will help to protect the tires.
There are a few steps that can be taken to reduce the aging effects from
long-term storage or a non-use period. Thoroughly clean the tires. Cover the
tires to block direct sunlight and ultraviolet rays. Store the RV out of a high
ozone area. Failure to take these steps can cause early deterioration and
shorten the life of the tires.

Storage of Tires Long Term

NOTE: When the motorhome is stored the tires should be
inflated to maximum inflation pressure as indicated on the
sidewall of the tire.
Before removing the motorhome from long-term storage, thoroughly
inspect each of the tires. This means a close examination of each tire’s tread
area and air pressure. If the pressure check indicates the tires have lost air
during storage, inflate them to the correct pressure for the correct load before
putting the motorhome into service.
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In Case of Flat Tire

If you have a flat tire it is recommended to call for roadside service. The
size and weight of the motorhome, and its tires, requires proper equipment to
change the tire. A professional service technician will have the proper equipment and training to repair or replace the tire. In the case of sudden tire failure avoid heavy braking. Hold the steering wheel firmly and gradually
decrease speed. Slowly move to a safe off-road place, which should be a firm
level spot. Turn the ignition off and turn the hazard flasher system ON.
Goodyear Tire Company has an emergency number which offers 24 hour
assistance. To contact Goodyear call (877) 484-7376. The old tire should be
saved for warranty.
Hub Piloted Mounting:
• Before using flange nuts that have already been used
in service, apply 2 drops of oil at one point between
the flange and hex. This will allow parts to rotate
freely and provide the proper clamping force when
tightened. Use any common lubricant typically used
for fasteners. Examples are motor oil and general
purpose lubricating oils. Excessive lubricant is not
desirable, this will not improve the nut performance.
Excessive lubricant makes the nuts hard to handle,
attracts dirt to the nuts, and may cause unsightly
appearance to the wheel. Only used nuts need to be
lubricated.
• Since flange nuts generate higher clamping force,
always use grade eight studs with hub mount wheels.
• Before installing the wheels, lubricate the hub pilot
pads with a drop of oil to prevent galling. Do not
lubricate any other wheel or hub surface.
• For a hub with intermittent pilot pads, position a pad
at twelve o’clock to center the wheel to reduce
runout.

NOTE: Loosen and tighten lug nuts
in a star pattern sequence. Sequence
tighten to 50 ft lb first, then
sequence tighten to 500 lb (over
tightening can cause distortion).

Front Wheels:
Slide the front wheel over the studs, being careful not to damage stud threads. Snug the nuts in
sequence, do not tighten them fully until all have
been seated. Tighten the nuts to 500 ft.lbs in
sequence (as shown in the illustration).

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Dual Rear Wheels:
Slide the inner dual wheel over the studs, being careful not to damage the
stud threads. Align the handholds for valve access and slide the outer dual
wheel over the studs, again being careful not to damage the stud threads.
Snug the nuts in sequence, do not tighten them fully until all have been
seated. Tighten the nuts to 500 ft. lbs. using the sequence as shown in the
illustration. The hub mount wheels use two piece flange cap nuts for both
front and rear applications. No inner cap nuts are required.
Torque the Nuts Properly:
• Be sure to tighten the wheel nuts to the recommended nut torque. Do
not over tighten.
• Maintain the nut torque at the recommended level through planned
periodic checks or at 10,000 miles intervals, whichever comes first.
• If air wrenches are used, they must be periodically calibrated for the
proper torque output. Use a torque wrench to check the air wrench
output and adjust the line pressure for the correct torque.

WEIGHTS
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
Gross Combined Weight Rating
Front Gross Axle Weight Rating
Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating

34PBD
32,800 lbs
42,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
20,000 lbs

34PBS
32,800 lbs
42,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
20,000 lbs

MEASUREMENTS
Wheelbase
Overall Length
Overall Height
Interior Height
Interior Width
Exterior width (100.5" floorplan)

34PBD
217"
35' 2"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

34PBS
217"
35' 2"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

WEIGHTS
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
Gross Combined Weight Rating
Front Gross Axle Weight Rating
Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating

40PBD
35,800 lbs
45,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
23,000 lbs

40PBDS
35,800 lbs
45,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
23,000 lbs

MEASUREMENTS
Wheelbase
Overall Length
Overall Height
Interior Height
Interior Width
Exterior width (100.5" floorplan)

40PBD
270"
40' 10"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

36PBD 38PBD
32,800 lbs 32,800 lbs
42,800 lbs 42,800 lbs
12,800 lbs 12,800 lbs
20,000 lbs 20,000 lbs
36PBD
252"
38' 1"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

38PBD
252"
39' 3"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

40PBDD 40PWD
35,800 lbs 35,800 lbs
45,800 lbs 45,800 lbs
12,800 lbs 12,800 lbs
23,000 lbs 23,000 lbs

40PBDS 40PBDD 40PWD
270"
270"
270"
40' 10"
40' 10"
40' 10"
11' 11"
11' 11"
11' 11"
79"
79"
79"
96"
96"
96"
100.5"
100.5"
100.5"

WINDSOR

38PBDD
32,800 lbs
42,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
20,000 lbs

SPECIFICATIONS CHART
- DIMENSIONS CHART

38PBDD
252"
39' 3"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

40PKD 40PKDD
35,800 lbs 35,800 lbs
45,800 lbs 45,800 lbs
12,800 lbs 12,800 lbs
23,000 lbs 23,000 lbs
40PKD 40PKDD
270"
270"
40' 10"
40' 10"
11' 11"
11' 11"
79"
79"
96"
96"
100.5"
100.5"

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VIEWS
Front

Front
1. Mirrors (Remote Heat Optional)
2. Headlights
3. Clearance Lights
4. Generator Compartment/
Front Hood
5. Windshield Wipers

6. License Plate
7. Fog Lights
8. Identification Lights

Rear
1. Clearance Lights
2. Rear View Camera
3. Third Brake Light
4. Tail Light
5. License Plate
6. Rear Tow Hitch

7. Engine Compartment
8. Identification Lights
9. Rear Dock Lights

Rear

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Roadside

Locations may vary from model to model. Identify each by their specific view.

1. Shore Power Electric Receptacle
2. Chassis Electrical Panel
3. LP Tank Fill and Shut-Off Valves
4. Slide Storage Compartment
5. Water Pump, Plumbing Manifold
Inverter/Converter, Optional Aqua-Hot
6. Water Control Panel

7. Side Marker Light
8. Roof Air Conditioner
9. Shower Dome
10. Roof Vent
11. Solar Panel
12. Radio Antenna
13. Diesel Fuel Fill

11

11

12

10

Curbside

7

9

8

1

2

3

4

5

6

Locations may vary from model to model. Identify each by their specific view.

1. Electrical Disconnects and Fuses
2. Batteries Compartment
3. Side Marker Lights
4. Water Heater Access
5. Storage Compartment
6. Engine Diesel Fuel Fill
7. Porch Light.

WINDSOR

8. Furnace Vent
9. Refrigerator Access
10. TV Antenna
11. Roof Air Conditioner
12. Holding Tank Vent

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SMOKE DETECTOR

Statistics show that most fire casualties are not caused by direct
flame, but by less visible smoke (products of combustion). The smoke
detector responds to both visible and invisible products of combustion.
The smoke detector will automatically return from alarm to normal state
when the reason for activation, the presence of smoke, is completely
removed. Common cause of fires are smoking in bed, leaving children
unattended or using flammable cleaning fluids. Please be safety conscious and avoid unnecessary risk.

WARNING: There is no way to insure there will be no
injury or loss of life in a fire; however, the smoke
detector is intended to help reduce the risk of tragedy.
Additional smoke detectors may help reduce the risk.
Proper use and care of the smoke detector could save
lives.

Operation

Once a 9 volt DC battery is correctly connected, the smoke alarm is operating. The LED will flash every minute showing the battery is supplying power. A
load alarm will sound when a production of combustion is sensed.

NOTE: The unit will not operate without a battery. A battery flag will pop up preventing the unit from being installed
to the mounting bracket without a battery. Most carbon zinc
batteries average service life is one year. Most alkaline batteries service life is one to two years.

How To Test

To test the electronics of the alarm press the test button on the cover of the
smoke alarm for a few seconds. The smoke alarm will sound by making a continuous loud beep. To complete the test sequence release the button and the
alarm should stop.

NOTE: Test the smoke alarm operation after the
motorhome has been in storage, before each trip and at least
once a week during use.

Maintenance

2 • 6 0

Vacuum the slots in the cover and sides with a soft brush attachment every
month. The smoke alarm should be cleaned every six months to help keep the
unit working efficiently.
The battery should power the smoke alarm for at least one year under normal use. When the battery reaches the end of its normal life a low battery warning (intermittent beeping) will indicate the need for battery replacement. It may
be practical to replace the battery during the time changes in the spring and fall.

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If the alarm does not sound when the test button is pushed, or with a
smoke test, try the following:

Troubleshooting

• Inspect for obvious damage.
• Check for the recommended battery type.
• Check the battery for proper connection, or replace the battery
if needed.
• Gently vacuum as recommended.
If these procedures do not correct the problem do not attempt repairs. If
the smoke alarm is within the warranty period and the terms indicate the
nature of the problem, return the unit to your dealer. Smoke detectors beyond
the warranty period cannot be economically repaired.
Abnormal air conditions may cause the highly sensitive smoke alarm to
give a false alarm. If no fire is apparent ventilate the room and/or blow fresh
air into the motorhome until the alarm stops. Once cleared, the smoke alarm
will automatically reset. Dust can lead to excessive sensitivity. Vacuum as
needed.
Provide for safety is a gas detector.
LP
This gas detector will detect both LP gas
and Methane Gas. Liquefied Petroleum
(LP) Gas is heavier than air, Methane Gas
is lighter than air. LP Gas will settle to the
lowest point, generally the floor of the
motorhome. Methane Gas will rise. The gas
detector is also sensitive to other fumes
such as hair spray, of which most contain
butane as the propellant. Butane, like
propane is heavier than air and will settle to
the floor level where it will be detected.
When this occurs, press reset button to stop
the alert sound for 60 seconds.
The other combustible which will be detected include alcohol, liquor,
deodorants, colognes, perfumes, wine, adhesives, lacquer, kerosene, gasoline,
glues, most cleaning agents and propellant of aerosol cans. Most are lighter
than air in their vapor state and will only be detected when the motorhome is
closed up.

Upon first application of power the LED will flash yellow for 3 minutes
while the detector is stabilizing. At the end of the start cycle the LED will
turn Green, indicated full operation. If the detector senses unsafe levels of
gas it will immediately sound alarm.
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- GAS DETECTOR

Operation

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The gas detector operates on 12 Volt DC, with a current draw less than
1/10th of one amp.

CAUTION: This detector will not alarm during the 3
minute warm up cycle.

Testing

Press the TEST switch any time during the warm up cycle or while in normal operation. The LED should flash RED and the alarm should sound. Release
the switch. This is the only way you should test the detector. The test feature
checks full operation of the detector.

WARNING: Test the operation of this detector after the
motorhome has been in storage, before each trip and at least
once per week during use.

Alarm

The RED LED will flash and the alarm will sound whenever a dangerous
level of propane or methane gas is detected. The detector will continue to alarm
until the gas clears or the Test/Mute switch pressed.
Procedures To Take During An Alarm:
1. Turn off all gas appliances, (stove, heaters, furnace),
extinguish all flames and smoking material. Evacuate,
leave doors and windows open.
2. Turn off the propane tank valve.
3. Determine and repair the source of the leak. Seek professional help
if necessary.

CAUTION: Do Not re-enter until the problem is corrected.
Alarm Mute:
Press the Test-Mute button when the detector is in alarm.
1. The Red LED will continue flash and the alarm will beep
every 30 seconds, until the gas level has dropped.
2. The LED will flash Green until the end of the Mute cycle.
3. If dangerous gas levels return before the end of the mute cycle,
the alarm will beep 4 times and return to phase 1.
4. After 2 minutes the detector will return to normal operation
(solid Green) or resound the alarm if dangerous levels of gas
remain in the area.

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Fault Alarm:
Should the microprocessor sense a fault in the gas detector, a fault
alarm will sound twice every 15 seconds. The LED will alternately flash Red
to Green and the MUTE switch will not respond to any command. The gas
detector must be repaired or replaced.
1. Vacuum the dust off the detector cover weekly (more
frequently in dusty locations) using the soft brush
attachment of your vacuum.
2. Do not spray cleaning agents or waxes directly onto the
front panel. This action may damage the sensor, cause an
an alarm or cause a detector malfunction.
The motorhome is equipped with a carCARBON MONOXIDE
bon monoxide detector. Carbon monoxide
(CO) is a colorless, odorless and tasteless
gas. Even low levels of CO have been known
to cause brain and other vital organ damage
in unborn infants, with no effect on the mother. In cases of mild exposure the symptoms
may include: a slight headache, nausea, vomiting and fatigue. Symptoms for medium
exposure may include a severe throbbing
headache, drowsiness, confusion and fast
heart rate. Extreme exposure can result in
unconsciousness, convulsions, cardio-respiratory failure and death. Young children and household pets may be the first
affected. The CO detector is designed to detect the toxic CO fumes that result
from vehicle exhaust and incomplete combustion sources like a furnace, gas
stove or water heater. Consequently, it is uncommon for household smoke from
cigarettes or normal cooking to cause the alarm to sound.

Care

DETECTOR

NOTE: Activation of this device indicates the presence of
carbon monoxide (CO) which can be fatal. A concentration
of above 100 PPM will cause a warning condition.
Individuals with medical problems may consider using
detection devices with lower carbon monoxide alarming
capabilities. Prolonged exposure to the horn at a close distance may be harmful to your hearing.
The detector is equipped with a self-cleaning CO sensor and requires a
ten minute initial warm-up period to clean the sensor element and achieve
stabilization. The green power light should be lit when the power is on. If the
light is not lit, turn off the power and check all wire connections. If the
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Operating
Instructions

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power is on and the connections are correct, but the indicator still does not
light, the detector should be returned for service. Do not attempt to fix the
detector. The indicator light displays a specific color to monitor the conditions as follows:
• Green - Indicates ON or normal condition. The CO detector has
power and is sensing air for the presence of CO gas. The alarm
horn will not sound.
• Flashing Red - Indicates a low level buildup of carbon
monoxide is present. The alarm horn will sound and can be reset
by pressing the TEST/RESET Button.
• Solid Red - Indicates an “alarm condition.” The detector has
sensed the presence of a hazardous level of carbon monoxide.
The alarm horn will sound continuously until reset by pushing
the RESET BUTTON.
• Flashing Red/Green - Indicates a “malfunction” condition.
The CO Detector is not working properly and must be replaced
immediately.

Alarm

If the alarm sounds, have the detector and the motorhome checked by an
authorized service technician as soon as possible. Never disconnect a CO detector to silence an annoying alarm. Evacuate the motorhome immediately when
the RED light is lit and the alarm sounds. Do a head count to check that all
persons are accounted for. Call the nearest fire department and ask them to
determine the source of the carbon monoxide. Do not re-enter the motorhome
until it has been aired out and the problem corrected.

Testing

Test the carbon monoxide detector operation after the motorhome has
been in storage, before each trip and at least once a week during use. Test the
alarm by holding the test button in until the alarm sounds. The alarm will stop
beeping in about 30 seconds.

Cleaning

Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dust or any other buildup on the detector. Do not wash. Wipe the detector with a damp cloth and dry it with a
towel. Do not open the detector for cleaning. Do not paint the detector. It is
recommend that the carbon monoxide detector be replaced every 10 years.

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The fire extinguisher in the motorhome is located near
the main entrance door. Please read the operating instructions that are printed on the fire extinguisher. If there is any
doubt on how to operate the fire extinguisher, you and your
family should practice using it. Be sure to replace or
recharge the extinguisher immediately after use.
Inspect the fire extinguisher at least once a month. Do so
more frequently if the extinguisher is exposed to weather or
possible tampering. Do not test the extinguisher by partially
discharging, this will cause a loss of pressure.

FIRE
EXTINGUISHER

Operation

IN S
T

R U C T IO N S

Use the PASS word!
Pull the pin to unlock the extinguisher.
Aim at the base (bottom) of the fire and stand
6-10 feet away.
Squeeze the lever to discharge the agent.
Sweep the spray from left to right until totally
extinguished.

An egress window is designated for use as an exit
in the case of an emergency. Inside the motorhome
the egress window is easily identified by the red
locking handle. It is also marked as an “EXIT.”
Outside of the motorhome the egress window is
identified by hinges along the top of the window.
The glass slider in the egress window operates the
same as all other windows. To open the egress window, lift the red handle and push outward on the
window. Pull the window closed and lower the handles to lock the egress window.
The egress window should be opened twice a
year to ensure proper operation. Over time, the rubber seal will tend to stick to the egress window.
Occasional operation will help prevent the rubber
seal from sticking.

WINDSOR

EGRESS EXIT WINDOW

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NOTE

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SECTION 3
CARE & MAINTENANCE
EXTERIOR CARE • 69
Corrosion • 69
Washing • 69
Drying • 70
Waxing • 70
Tire Care • 71
Care & Maintenance of Aluminum Wheels • 71
Bright Metal • 72
Maintenance - Exterior • 72
Roof Care & Seal Inspections • 72
INTERIOR CARE •74
Fabrics • 74
FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS CHART • 76
Vinyl • 78
Leather • 80
Floors - Carpet Cleaning • 81
Floor Tile • 82
Shower - Cleaning • 83
Ceilings • 83
Wall Coverings • 84
Countertops • 85
Windows • 86
Mini-Blinds • 87
Day/Night Shades (Optional) • 87
STORAGE • 87
Storage Short Term • 87
Storage Long Term • 88
CHECKLIST • 91
Winter Storage • 91
Storage Removal • 92

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The most common cause of corrosion to the motorhome is the accumulation of road salts, grime and dirt. These elements, combined with moisture,
may possibly cause early component failure. Salt air and fog from coastal
trips can greatly accelerate the corrosion process. Corrosive materials collected from roadways accumulate on the undercarriage, around wheel openings
and on the radiator charge air cooler package. These areas need to be cleaned
periodically to help prevent component failure due to corrosion. If the
motorhome is driven in areas where road salts are used, it should be washed
at least once a week. Otherwise, it is recommended to hose off the undercarriage area at least once a month to help minimize the corrosion process. High
pressure washers or steam cleaners are the most affective way of cleaning off
the underside and inside wheel openings. Avoid directly spraying the painted surface with a high pressured washer. Remove road debris and mud that
has accumulated. Material left behind can intensify the corrosion problem.

EXTERIOR CARE
Corrosion

CAUTION: Exercise caution when cleaning the radiator
charge air cooler package. Damage to the fins can result
when using a high pressure washer or steam cleaner.
Nozzle discharge pressure can exceed 1,800 psi. Avoid
using high pressure steam cleaners on the exterior paint
surfaces. Remove all spattered washing debris from the
exterior paint surfaces as soon as possible.
The life of the exterior paint finish can be extended if properly cared for.
Periodic cleaning will help preserve the paint finish. The motorhome is painted
with a “base coat, clear coat system.” The clear coat is a polyurethane based
material which brings out the shine or luster to the base coat paint. Care should
be used when washing the motorhome. Use only mild detergents or preferred
specifically designed automotive detergents. Avoid using abrasive cleansers or
laundry detergents as they will scratch the clear coat and leave a soap film. The
use of specially designed automotive washing utensils such as soft bristle
brushes are acceptable, as long as they do not trap abrasive material and
scratch the surface while being used. Before washing the motorhome remove
most of the accumulated dirt and “road wash” behind wheel openings, below
the windshield and on the rear of the motorhome. If the build up is excessive,
run water over a soft brush while gently scrubbing the surface in one direction.
This will help float away the “build-up” from the clear coat. Avoid back and
forth or circular motions as this may act like sandpaper, scratching the clear
coat and leaving a haze or “swirl marks.” After removing the heavy build-up,
use the mixed detergent solution to wash the motorhome. Start washing at the
top of the motorhome working towards the bottom. If possible, wash the
motorhome in a shaded area when the exterior is not hot to the touch. If necessary, turn the motorhome around to keep the area being washed in the shade.
Try not to allow the detergent to dry onto the clear coat surface. Use plenty of
water when rinsing the surface to remove any detergent residue.
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Drying

Drying chamois cloths come in natural and synthetic materials. Either type is
acceptable as long as the surface is clean. Soak the chamois in clean water until all
chamois material has absorbed water. Wring excess water from chamois. Start at the
top and work towards the bottom. Use a downward “S” pattern to remove water
from the surface and wring out the chamois as needed. Using a chamois cloth to
remove the rinse water is not necessary, but the effort can be worthwhile.

Waxing

To wax or not to wax? This is a good question. There are many schools of
thought on this issue. The two most common thoughts are:
• The clear coat needs to “breathe.” A layer of wax will seal the clear coat not
allowing it to breathe, possibly leading to failure of the clear coat.
• If the surface is not waxed, what is protecting the surface from the
environment (road salts, acid rain, road tar, ultraviolet light)?
Monaco Coach Corporation recommends the use of wax, twice a year; spring and
fall. Many types of protective barriers are available today that may be applied to the
clear coat: glazes, waxes, polishes, rubbing compunds or combinations of these
products.

NOTE:When selecting a product for use follow the product
manufacturer’s recommended application instructions.
Types of Products:
Glazes: Glazes are generally used to fill very fine scratches in the clear coat,
being applied either by hand or by using a polisher with a special pad.
Waxes: Waxes come in many types of chemical make-ups. The popular
Carnauba wax is a natural occurring wax from the leaves or fronds of the Carnauba
palm tree. Mineral waxes have a paraffin base. There are also other topical application products which contain silicone.
Polishes: Polishes usually contain a combination of wax based substances with
an abrasive, getting the two for one idea. These products can be too abrasive for
clear coats and are not recommended for use.
Rubbing Compounds: These types of products are generally applied by using a
buffer. The use of rubbing compounds should be left to professionals as undesired
results can occur quickly. These types of products are generally used to correct or
flatten a surface by removing high spots or small amounts of material.
When selecting a product the container should be marked, “safe for clear coats”
or “clear coat safe.” Carefully follow all manufacturer’s application instructions
when using a product. Upon first use of a product, try it on a “small test spot” in an
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inconspicuous area in case an undesired reaction occurs. Observe the test
area from different angles checking for hazing or swirl marks. If an abnormal
reaction to the finish results, discontinue product use and consult the product’s manufacturer. If the product is a paste, do not allow dried paste to be
baked on by the sun. Remove paste shortly after drying. Clean, dry, 100%
cotton cloths or cotton baby diapers are best suited for the removal of dried
paste. Turn the cloth often. Use a separate clean cloth to buff. The surface
should feel “slick” when rubbing the cloth lightly over it. Avoid repeated
wax applications which can cause wax to build up. Some very fine scratches
or swirl marks may be removed by an application of a glaze. These types of
glazes fill the scratches or swirl marks.
The motorhome has a large surface area. Washing and waxing may not be
completed in one afternoon. Select sections to wax until the motorhome is
complete. If the task seems formidable, have an automotive detailer perform
the task.

Road oil will cause deterioration of the rubber. Dirt buildup will help hold
chemicals in the air next to the tire and will also cause deterioration.
When cleaning any rubber product, proper care and methods in cleaning
must be used to obtain the maximum service years out of the tires. Use a soft
brush and a mild detergent to clean the tires. If a dressing product is used to
“protect” the tires from aging, use extra care and caution. Tire dressings that
contain petroleum products or alcohol may cause deterioration or cracking.
In many cases it is not the dressing that causes a problem, but the chemical reaction that subsequently occurs. When these same dressing products are
used on a passenger car tire that is replaced every three to four years, it is
rare to see a major problem. However, in most cases, RV tires may last
longer due to limited annual mileage, and exposure.

Tire Care

• Clean frequently with high pressure water from a hose. The use of mild Care & Maintenance
detergent will speed the cleaning process. Do not use harsh alkalis, of Aluminum Wheels
alcohol or acidic cleansers. A secondary hand washing with a soft cloth
may be required to remove some stubborn road films.
• When the tires are removed, the entire wheel must be cleaned and
inspected. With a wire brush or sandpaper remove dirt, corrosion or any
foreign materials from the tire side of the rim. Do not use a wire brush
or other abrasive substances to remove dirt and corrosion on the polished surface of the wheel.
• To maintain the original appearance of the aluminum wheels the following procedures are recommended:
1. After installing new wheels (prior to operating your motorhome)
use a sponge, cloth or soft fiber brush to wash the exposed wheel surfaces with a mild detergent/warm water solution.
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2. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
3. Wipe dry to avoid water spots.
4. Use a high quality, non-abrasive polish to remove stubborn road tars, insects or
hard to remove deposits.
5. To protect the appearance surface on Accu-Forge wheels, wax the cleaned surface with a high quality car wax.
6. Clean the aluminum wheels as frequently as required to maintain their appearance.

Bright Metal

All chrome, stainless steel and aluminum should be washed and cleaned each time
the motorhome is washed. Use only automotive approved nonabrasive cleaners and polishes on exterior bright work. Aluminum wheels should be
cleaned regularly with a non-abrasive cleaner recommended for
aluminum wheel care. Do not use rubbing compounds.

NOTE: When using chemicals to remove road tars, use only automotive type products that are recommended for use on painted
surfaces and fiberglass. Observe the warning recommendations
and directions printed on the container of any agent being used.

Maintenance
- Exterior

The motorhome is subjected to a great deal of outside conditions. While the coach
is parked it is exposed to extreme temperatures, humidity, ultraviolet rays, acid rain
and other organic environmental conditions. While in operation the coach is subjected
to twisting and flexing caused by (for example) going in and out of driveways, bouncing through potholes and driving through winding mountain roads.
Periodic inspections of the fiberglass exterior may reveal minute cracks in the surface commonly called “spider cracks” or “hairline cracks,” which are caused by the
flexing of the fiberglass exterior. These are quite normal. If a crack represents a threat
to the integrity of the fiberglass it will open up and the weave of the cloth would be
visible. If the exterior has been damaged, prevent moisture penetration, especially in
freezing climates. Cover the area as quickly as possible. Use plastic sheeting and tape,
if necessary, so that moisture will not get into the motorhome and damage the interior.

Roof Care &
Seal Inspections

Periodic resealing of the joints and seams is necessary to prevent the entrance of
moisture into the motorhome. Enough emphasis cannot be placed on this issue.
Extreme damage from a water leak can occur rapidly. Never leave the vehicle unattended with the slide room extended. If the vehicle is to be stored outside throughout
the winter months, a full interior inspection for water leaks should be made bi-monthly. Extensive sealing has be done at the factory; however, the normal twisting and
flexing that occurs while traveling may have compromised a seal or seam. All joints
and seams should be inspected at least twice a year and recalked as necessary. Special
attention should be directed toward the roof air conditioning seals, ceiling and plumb-

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ing vents, skylights, roof mounted antennas, windows, door molding, clearance
lights and the beltline molding. Specific sealant products should be used in the areas
for which they were designed. These items can be obtained from recreational vehicle
parts suppliers. Listed below are some of the more common sealants and the areas in
which they are used. Approved sealants are available at service centers and authorized dealers.

WARNING: Some products may contain hazardous materials
which require special handling. Read labels carefully. Follow all
of the product manufacturer’s safety requirements.
Sealant Types:
Acryl-R: This product is used on all roof openings such as: vents, skylights, any roof mounted antennas and ladder roof mounts. The sealant
should be applied only where the equipment bases meet the roof. Clean
the old sealant that is lifting before applying with new. Make sure the
roof is dry and free of dirt. This product is usually found in a caulking
tube. Care should be used when near an edge, as the product will spread
out. Masking tape may be used to mask around area to avoid mishaps.
The roof air conditioners use a closed cell foam base gasket. No sealants
are required. The roof air conditioners should be checked for tightness by
the four mounting bolts located in each interior corner of the air conditioner roof opening. Torque specification is 40-50 in/lbs. The base gasket
should be compressed to approximately ½”.
Clear Silicone Sealant: Primarily this product is used on the sidewalls
where a hole has been made and an item installed. This includes
Windows, Doors, Handles, Beltline Molding, Latches and around bases
of items surface mounted such as clearance lights. Old peeling sealant
should be removed. Avoid using metal utensils which can scratch the
painted surface. Use nylon sticks or equivalent. Avoid using lacquer thinners or ketone based solvents as these chemicals can damage the painted
surfaces. Be sure the surface is clean and dry before application. Cut the
tube at an angle with smallest usable opening. Avoid a heavy bead as a
little goes a long way. Use finger at a 45° angle on beaded surface to
smooth out product. Do not moisten finger, use a disposable latex glove.
Keep rags or paper towels handy for clean up. Use care when applying
silicone. Plan ahead before starting a bead, look for obstacles that may
impede application.
Black Urethane: This product is used for sealing the windshields. It was
not designed to fill holes or other imperfections. Black urethane comes in
a tube and it applies much the same way as silicone does. Clean up using
solvents such as paint thinner. Gloves are required as this material is hazardous.
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Acrylic Sealants (geocel 2300): This product is used where items are
sealed under a painted surface such as the metal corners of the slide out
room. The material is specially formulated to allow paint adhesion.
Spray Foam: This product is used as a sealant where a hole has been made
for items such as water lines or wires that are coming through a floor opening.

INTERIOR CARE
- Fabrics

The fabrics have been manufactured with the same quality you would expect to find
in a furniture store. If the fabric is abused, it can be damaged. Special care needs to be
taken when your motorhome is exposed to a very humid climate for an extended period of time. Cover all upholstery and make sure window coverings are down to protect
from sun damage.
Protect the fabric from any unnecessary exposure to moisture. The sofa,
pillows, dinette cushions, living area chair, driver/passenger seating and
window treatments have been treated with Scotch Guard to prevent overall water spots
and soiling. Frequently used items will wear accordingly and may require more attention than those items not regularly used.
Use the following guidelines for cleaning your upholstery fabrics:
• Water-based cleaners are not recommended.
• If a spill does occur, blot the soiled area. Do not rub it.
• Some solvents are not recommended since they may have an adverse
reaction on specific backings of your upholstery fabric.
• To prevent overall soiling, frequent vacuuming or light brushing are
recommended to remove dust and grime.
• Clean spots using a mild water-free solvent or dry cleaning product.
• Clean only in a well ventilated area and avoid any product containing
carbon tetrachloride or other toxic materials.
• Use a professional furniture cleaning service for an overall cleaning.
Fabric Cleaning Codes:
The codes listed below refer to cleaning instructions recommended by the fabric
manufacturer for specific fabrics. The “Fabric Specification Charts” (located on the
following pages) list specific fabric codes under “Cleaning Code.”
“W” - Clean this fabric with the foam only of a water-based cleaning agent to
remove the overall soil. Many household cleaning solvents are harmful to the color and
life of a fabric. Cleaning only by a professional furniture cleaning service is recommended. To prevent overall soil, frequent vacuuming or light brushing to remove dust
and grime is recommended.

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“S” - Clean this fabric with pure solvents (petroleum distillate-based products such as Energine, Carbona, Renuzit, or similar products may be used) in a
well ventilated room. Cleaning only by a professional furniture cleaning service
is recommended.

CAUTION: Use of water-based or detergent-based solvent
cleaners may cause excessive shrinking. Water stains may
become permanent and unable to be removed with solvent
cleaning agents. Avoid products containing Carbon
Tetrachloride as it is highly toxic. To help prevent overall
soiling, frequent vacuuming or light brushing to remove
dust and grime is recommended.
“S/W” - Clean this fabric with the foam only of a water-based cleaning
agent or with a pure solvent in a well ventilated room (petroleum distillatebased products such as Energine, Carbona, Renuzit, or similar products
may be used). Cleaning only by a professional furniture cleaning service is
recommended. To help prevent overall soiling, frequent vacuuming or light
brushing to remove dust and grime is suggested.
“P” - The article is resistant against perchlorethene, cleaning benzine
(spirit), white spirit, R-11 and R-13.
“Dry Clean Only” - Cleaning only by a professional dry cleaner or
furniture cleaning service is recommended for this fabric.
*Machine Washing for 100% Polyester:
“Wash Cycle” - Use synthetic setting and high water level with mild
agitation. A mild soap or detergent in water not to exceed 160º F.
No bleach or fabric softener.
“Drying” - Use low temperatures, a synthetic setting of 85º F to 90º F
maximum should be used. Do not exceed three to five minutes time on the
synthetic cycle. If washed at 160º F, the maximum temperature which can
be used to dry is 140º F. Hang or fold immediately after drying.
“Finishing” - If necessary, press as following:
• Iron on low setting (275° F) with damp cloth or steam iron using a dry
press cloth.
• Grid Head press for short intervals with minimum steam. Do not lock
the head.
• Flat bed press dampened drapery using cloth covering.
• Avoid prolonged contact with heat.

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FABRIC SPECIFICATION CHART:

FABRIC

Current BGE - 3

CLEANING
CODE

CONTENT
Autumn .413
74% Cotton, 17% Rayon, $%
Linen, 4% Acrylic, 1% Poly

APPLICATION

S

Sofa, Living Room Pillow

87% Cotton, 13% Polyester

S

Living Room Pillow, Free standing
Dinette Chair, Dinette Cushions,
Living Room Lambrequin

100% Polyester

S

Living Room Lambrequin, Living
Room Pillow

21132 - 36C001Dusk

52% Rayon, 48% Cotton

P

Bedspread, Bedroom Lambrequin

Krinkle II Parchment

100% Dacron Polyester

Mild Soap

100% Polyester

W/S

Vinyl

Mild Soap

Vinyl

Leather

Dry Cloth

Leather

100% Nylon

S

CONTENT

CLEANING
CODE

Angel Falls - FL Dawn

Nirvana Almond

Pearl Natural
Tumbleweed New Oyster
(Vinyl)
Tumbleweed New Oyster
(Leather)
216RF062 Brown/Beige

FABRIC

Unique Candlelight

Tidwell 9105 MO 31059 - 004

Mirvana Olivewood

Elgin 62 Sepia

Linen .414
59% Cotton, 28% Polyester
13% Acrylic

S

55% Rayon, 45% Cotton

S

100% Polyester

S

54% Cotton, 46% Polyester

Bedroom Accent, Bedroom
Pillow, Headboard, Bedroom
Lambrequin
Windshield

Accent Trim

APPLICATION

Sofa, Living Room Lambrequin
Living Room Pillow, Free
Standing Dinette Chair, Dinette
Cushion, Living Room
Lambrequin
Living Room Lambrequin, Living
Room Pillow

S
Bedspread, Bedroom Pillow,
Dry Cleaning
Bedroom Lambrequin
Recommended
Bedroom Accent, Bedroom
Pillow, Headboard, Bedroom
Lambrequin
Windshield

Bellini 810 toast

100% Polyester

W/S

Pearl Natural

100% Polyester

W/S

Vinyl

Mild Soap

Vinyl

Leather

Dry Cloth

Leather

70% Rayon 30% Cotton

S

Tumbleweed Taupe (Vinyl)
Tumbleweed Taupe (Leather)
908-00688 Ivory

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FABRIC

Hollywood Hills 002

CONTENT

CLEANING
CODE

Twilight 415
50% Polyester, 50% Rayon

S

APPLICATION

Sofa, Living Room Lambrequin
Living Room Accent, Free Standing
Dinette Chair

Cinematiquei 001

50% Polyester, 50 Rayon

S

Lamour 013

50% Polyester, 50 % Rayon

S

Living Room Lambrequin, Chair,
Living Room Pillow, Dinette Cushion

Captiva - FS Cinder

100% Cotton

S

Bedspread, Bedroom Lambrequin

Shantung - SH Lynx

100% Cotton

S

Bedroom Accent, Bedroom Pillow,
Headboard, Bedroom Lambrequin

Pearl Natural
Tumbleweed Taupe (Vinyl)
Tumbleweed Taupe (Leather)
900-00688 Black

100% Polyester
Vinyl
Leather
70% Rayon, 30% Cotton

W/S
Mild Soap
Dry Cloth
S

Windshield
Vinyl
Leather
Accent Trim

FABRIC

CONTENT

CLEANING
CODE

APPLICATION

Verde .416
CJ 9101 Bluemoon/W 005-003
CJ 9100 Platinum W 005-03
Nirvana - FLH Baltic

100% Polyester

S

Nirvana - FLH Mushroom

100% Polyester

S

Chur/Rembrandt Surf

52% Cotton, 48% Viscose Rayon

S

Krinkle II Parchment

100% Dacron Polyester

Mild Soap

Pearl Natural
Tumbleweed Pearl (Vinyl)
Tumbleweed Pearl (Leather)
908-00688 Ivory

100% Polyester
Vinyl
Leather
30% Cotton

W/S
Mild Soap
Dry Cloth
S

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Living Room Pillow, Living Room
Lambrequin
Living Room Lambrequin

Bedroom Pillow, Headboard,
Bedroom Lambrequin
Windshield
Vinyl
Leather
Accent Trim

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Vinyl

Several areas of the motorhome can be covered in vinyl. These areas include the
dash, items of furniture and the ceiling. The care and cleaning of these areas are outlined in the Morbern Vinyl section below.
Morbern Vinyl:
Vinyl requires periodic cleaning to maintain its neat appearance and to
prevent the buildup of dirt and contaminants that may permanently stain
and/or reduce the life of the vinyl if they are not removed. The frequency
of cleaning depends upon the amount of use and the environmental conditions in which the vinyl is subjected. The procedures used for cleaning are
dependent upon the end-use circumstances.
Normal Cleaning:
Most common stains can be cleaned using warm soapy water and clear
water rinses. Moderate scrubbing with a medium bristle brush will help to
loosen soil from the depressions of embossed surfaces. For stubborn
stains, use the following commercially available mild detergents in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions: Mr. Clean or Fantastik. Full
strength rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits may be tried cautiously as a
last resort on very stubborn stains if the above suggestions do not work.
Indiscriminate use of any solvent, or solvent containing cleaner, can
severely damage or discolor the vinyl. Stains may become permanent if
they are not removed immediately. The procedure for removal of the more
severe staining agents are outlined below.

NOTE: Detergents should never be used on a regular or repeated
basis for normal cleaning.
CAUTION: Powdered cleaners containing abrasives, steel wool
and industrial strength cleaners are not recommended for
Morbern vinyl.
Bird Excreta & Vomit Stains:
Sponge the area with soapy water containing a diluted bleach until the
stain is removed. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Urine Stains:
Sponge them with soapy water containing a small amount of household
ammonia. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Surface Mildew:
Wash with diluted bleach and use a soft brush for stubborn growth. Rinse
repeatedly with clear, cold water.

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CAUTION: Any lacquer solvent will cause immediate irreparable damage to the vinyl. Wax should never be used on any vinyl
upholstery, as it will cause premature embrittlement and cracking. Dilute chlorine bleach before using. Never use full strength
bleach. If flammable solvents such as alcohol, turpentine, or varsol are used for cleaning, use only small quantities while in a
well-ventilated area. Exercise proper caution by notifying any
persons in the area. Keep away from any ignition source. Always
wear protective gloves.
Ballpoint Ink:
Permanent Marker Ink spots will stain the vinyl permanently. Wipe the stain
immediately with rubbing alcohol in a well ventilated area to remove much
of the stain.
Oil-Base Paint:
Use turpentine in a well ventilated area to remove any fresh paint. Dried
paint must be moistened using a semi-solid, gel-type stripper. The softened
paint can be gently scrape away. Rinse with soap and water.

NOTE: Paint strippers will remove the print pattern and
damage the vinyl if it comes in direct contact.
Latex Paint:
Fresh paint can be wiped off with a damp cloth. Hot soapy water will
normally remove dried latex.
Tar or Asphalt:
Remove immediately, as prolonged contact will result in a permanent stain.
Use a cloth lightly dampened with mineral spirits and rub the stain gently,
working from the outer edge of the stain toward the center to prevent
spreading. Rinse with soap and water.
Crayon, Mustard or Ketchup:
Sponge with mild soap and water. For stubborn stains that may have set,
use a cloth soaked in diluted mild detergent with gentle rubbing. Any
remaining stain should be washed with diluted bleach. Rinse repeatedly
with cold water.
Chewing Gum:
Scrape off as much gum as possible using a dull knife. Rub the gum with an ice
cube to harden it and make it easier to remove. In a well ventilated area, use a
cloth saturated with mineral spirits and gently rub the remaining gum. Rinse
thoroughly with clean water.

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Lipstick, Grease, Oil, Make-Up or Shoe Polish:
Apply a small amount of mineral spirits with a cloth. Rub gently. Be careful not to spread the stain by smearing it beyond its original source.
Remove shoe polish immediately as it contains a dye which will cause
permanent staining. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Candy, Ice Cream, Coffee, Tea, Fruit Stains, Liquor, Wine, Tanning
Lotion or Soft Drinks:
Use lukewarm water and sponge repeatedly. Any loose material should be
gently scraped with a dull knife. Any soiled area that remains after drying
should be gently rubbed with a cloth, damped with a mild detergent
solution. Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Blood or Plant Residue:
Rub out any spots with a clean cloth, soaked in cool water. If stubborn
spots remain, use household ammonia and rinse repeatedly with a clean,
wet cloth. Do not use hot water or soap suds, as this will set the stain.

NOTE: Vinyl requires periodic cleaning to maintain its appearance and to prevent the buildup of dirt and contaminants that
may permanently stain or reduce the life of the vinyl if left
untreated. The frequency of cleaning and procedures used
depend upon the amount of use and the environmental conditions
in which the vinyl is subjected to. Vinyl tears or holes can be temporarily covered with clear “office” tape to prevent further damage. Repairs should be made by a professional upholstery shop.
Commercial repair products may contain lacquers, and cause the
vinyl to become brittle and more difficult to repair.

Leather

Spots & Spills:
Absorb excess liquid immediately with a clean cloth or sponge. Use water
only if necessary. Do not use a cleaning product. If water is used, clean
the entire area where the spot occurred. An example would be the entire
seat cushion, or the entire arm. Let it air dry. Do not dry the wet areas
with hair dryers, etc.
Stubborn Spots and Stains:
Use lukewarm water and a mild soap to work up a thin layer of suds on a
piece of cheesecloth. Scrub the surface. Rinse with a piece of clean, damp
cheesecloth. Let air dry. Do not use saddle soap, cleaning solvents, furniture polish, oils, varnish, abrasive cleaners, soaps or ammonia water.

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NOTE: These are recommended or suggested methods of cleaning. The manufacturer is not responsible for damage incurred
while cleaning. Always test the cleaning method in an inconspicuous area first before applying to the entire area.

(B) Nail Polish Remover: Any acetate, which often
has a banana fragrance. Do not use if it contains
acetone.
(C) Detergent Solution: Mix two cups of cold water
and 1/8 teaspoon mild liquid detergent (no
lanolin, non-bleach).
(D) Warm Water: Lukewarm tap water.

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F G H I

VINEGAR SOLUTION
AMMONIA SOLUTION
SPOT REMOVAL KIT
CALL PREFESSIONAL
PERMANENT CHANGE

DRY CLEANING FLUID

Cleaning Solutions
(A) Dry Cleaning Fluid: A nonflammable spot
removal liquid, available in grocery and
hardware stores.

Furniture Polish
(Water Based)
Furniture Polish
(Solvent Based)
Furniture Stain
Graphite
Grease
Ink
Iodine
Lipstick
Medicine
Merthiolate
Nail Polish
Oil
Paint
Plant Food
Rust
Shoe Polish
Soft Drinks
Soot
Tar
Toothpaste
Urine
Vomit

NAIL POLISH REMOVER
DETERGENT SOLUTION
WARM WATER

Floors - Carpet Cleaning
Spot Removal Procedures
• Act quickly when anything is dropped or spilled. Remove
A B C D E
spots before they dry.
• Blot liquids with a clean, white absorbent cloth or paper
towel.
Usethe
the
solution
Use
solution
specifiedininorder
orderfrom
from 1• For semi-solids, scoop up with a rounded spoon.
specified
6 until
1-8
untilstain
stainisisremoved
• For solids, break up and vacuum out as much as possible. removed.
• Pretest the spot removal agent in an inconspicuous area to
make certain it will not damage the carpet or its dyes.
SPOTS
• Apply a small amount of the cleaning solution recomAcid
2
Acne Medication
1
2 5
mended for the particular spot. Do not scrub. Work from
Beverage
1 4 3
the edges of the spot to the center. Blot thoroughly. Repeat Alcoholic
Ammonia
2 1
until spot is removed.
Bleach
1 2
Blood
1 3
2
• Follow steps on the Carpet Spot Removal Guide.
Candle Wax
1
• After each application, absorb as much as possible
Cement & Glue
2 1 3
5
Chalk
1 2
before proceeding to the next step.
Charcoal
1 2
• Absorb remaining moisture with layers of white paper
Chewing Gum
1
towels, weighted down with a non-staining glass or
Coffee
1 3 2
Cosmetics
2 1 3 6
ceramic object.
Crayon
1
2 3
• When completely dry, vacuum or brush the pile to
Drain/Toilet Cleaner
2 1 3
restore texture.
Dye
1
2
4
Food
1
4
3
• If the spot is not completely removed, contact
Fungicides/Insecticides/
a professional carpet cleaner.
Pesticides
1
2 5 4

1
3 *
4 3 6 *
2
*
*
3 *
4
2
4 6
*

4 5 *
5 4 7 *
4 *
3 5 6 *
2 5 6 *
3 6 *

1 4 3 2 5 6 *
2 1 3
2 1 3
1 2
1 2 3
2 1 3
1
2
2 1 3
2 1 3
1
2 1 3
1
2
2 1 3
1
2
2 1 3
1
1
2
1
1
1
1

6 5 4 7 8 *
6 5 4 7 8 *

6
5
6
6
4
4

5
4
5
5
3

4
3
4
4
2

4
7
6
7
7
5
4

3

4
4 3 2 5
3 1
4
5
4 6
4 3 2 5
3
2

5
8
7
8
8
6
5
5
5
6
5
7
6
4
3

*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
*

2
3 4 *
4 3 2 5 6 *

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(E) Vinegar Solution: One cup white vinegar to one
cup water.
(F) Ammonia Solution: One tablespoon household
ammonia to one cup water.
(G) Spot Removal Kit: Available from retail carpet
stores or professional cleaners.
(H) Call Professional: Additional suggestions,
special cleaning chemicals or the ability to patch
the area might be available.
(I) Permanent Change: Due to the nature of the
stain, there may be color loss. The carpet has been
permanently dyed or the carpet yarns have been
permanently damaged.

NOTE: While the recommended cleaning agents have proven to
be effective, some stains may become permanent.

Floor - Tile

3 • 8 2

Various types of surfaces that vary in porosity and abrasive finishes are used in
the motorhome. These surfaces can be very difficult to protect and maintain.
Regular maintenance is all it takes to keep the tile in the motorhome looking showroom new. Once the slide-out has been extended, be sure to keep the tile floor clean
to prevent dirt from scratching the tiles prior to retracting the slide-out.
Cleaning Tile:
Use a damp sponge mop or a cloth to clean tiles and maintain their luster. If
moderate staining occurs, cleaning with a window cleaner such as Windex should do
the job. If you prefer, you can use a mild solution of hot water and all-purpose
cleaner for tile floors, walls and countertops. Rinse with clear water and be sure to
dry with a soft cloth to prevent streaking. Avoid cleaning tile with soap. Soap
forms a film to dull the luster. Soap also promotes the growth of mildew and bacteria. Do not use-powdered cleaners on unglazed tile floors. Undisssolved powder
will dull the surface. Grout sealers are available that protect the porous surfaces. If
a sealer is used, follow the sealant manufacturer guideline for application.
Additionally, never use sealers on unglazed tiles. With the exception of terracotta,
which may be oiled or waxed, you won’t need to polish or buff the tiles to maintain
their finish.
Grout:
The grout used is a two part concrete mix. It is normal for this type grout to
develop surface cracks over time. In motorhome applications due to the constant
flexing of the flooring, this process can accelerate. If the grout requires cleaning,
scrub with a plastic brush. Do not use steel wool as small particles may remain and
produce unsightly stains.
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NOTE: Before using any solution to clean your tile, check
the manufacturer's warning label to ensure the safety of the
product. If there is any doubt, apply several test patches of
the solution in an inconspicuous place to determine the product’s suitability.
Showers are susceptible to soap build up. Showers should be cleaned weekly
to prevent burdensome clean-up. Using the same solution used to clean tile
floors will be sufficient for the shower. However, to control mildew growth
spray the shower with household chlorine bleach and allow it to stand for
five minutes. Clean the glass shower doors with window cleaner on a weekly
basis to maintain the shine. If water spots cannot be remove from the glass,
rub lightly with the flat edge of a razor blade to remove the deposits.
To prevent excessive moisture and a continual growth of mildew, use the
shower only with adequate ventilation. The sealant in a regularly used shower should be replaced once a year. To replace the sealant, remove the old
sealant using a sharp instrument. Apply a new sealant, which can be found
at recreational vehicle supply stores.

The ceiling of the motorhome can be a variety of materials or fabrics,
many of which require little or no care or maintenance.

Shower - Cleaning

Ceilings

Vinyl:
The soft touch padded vinyl ceiling can be cleaned using the procedures
discussed in the vinyl article of this section. Generally, a mild soap and water
is sufficient for cleaning vinyl.

NOTE: Use care not to puncture the padded vinyl.
Ozite:
To clean the Ozite ceiling, mix a solution of 8 oz. warm water, 4 oz.
white vinegar, 1 oz. bleach and 4 oz. club soda. Spritz on and blot dry. Do
not rub or scrub as this may damage the surface.

NOTE: Do not oversaturate the Ozite surface as this may
damage the ceiling.
Hardwood Vinyl & Decorated Paneling:
Hardwood vinyl and decorated paneling are sensitive and demanding
materials. Certain cleaning agents will affect the surface on both printed and
unprinted vinyl. Use only a mild, non-abrasive detergent and warm water
with a soft cloth or sponge for the cleaning to protect the material.
Under no circumstance should bleach, alcohol, oil-based spray cleaners or
cleaning agents with solvents, citrus oil or harsh chemicals be used. Other liquid spray cleaners may also cause damage to the material.
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Wall Coverings

Time is very important when removing substances from wall coverings that are
solvent based or contain color. Do not use abrasive cleaners containing chlorine
bleach or solvents. (Fidelity and Jolie brands are recommended.) Always begin with
a mild detergent or soap and warm water. To remove normal dirt clean with a soft
sponge. Rinse and wipe it dry.
Care for the Satinesque Wall Covering:
Any stain should be removed as quickly as possible to minimize any reaction
between the staining agent and the wall covering. Time is very important when
removing substances that are solvent based or contain color. Examples: nail polish,
oil, shampoo, lacquer, enamel, paint, ink and lipstick.
Always begin cleaning with a mild detergent such as soap. If necessary, move to
a stronger cleaner such as household bleach, liquid household cleaners or rubbing
alcohol. Before using one of the stronger cleaners, test the cleaning agent on a small
inconspicuous portion of the wallcovering first to make sure that the cleaner does
not affect the color or gloss of the wall covering.
Normal dirt:
Remove normal dirt using a mild soap or detergent and warm water. Allow it to
soak for a few minutes then rub briskly with a cloth or sponge.
Nail polish, Shellac, or Lacquer:
Remove liquid using a dry cloth. Use care not to spread the stain. Quickly,
clean the remaining stain with rubbing alcohol. Rinse with clean water.
Ink:
Remove immediately by wiping with a cloth dampened in rubbing
alcohol. Rinse with clean water.
Chewing gum:
Rub the gum with an ice cube to cool and harden it. Gently, pull off the
bulk of the gum. Remove any remaining gum with rubbing alcohol.
Pencil:
Erase as much of the pencil mark as possible. Wipe any remaining marks
with rubbing alcohol.
Blood, Feces or Urine:
Remove these staining substances as quickly as possible. Wash the
stained area with a strong soap. If the stain does not disappear, rinse the
soapy area thoroughly with clean water. Mix a solution of 50% water
and 50% household bleach. Clean the stained area with the bleach solution. Rinse with clean water.

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Care for the Tower Wall Covering:
Remove ordinary stains with mild soap and warm water. Sponge it on.
Rinse well and dry with a soft cloth.
Special cleaning problems: To remove ball point pen, blood, lipstick, etc.,
use a sponge or soft bristle brush and Formula 409, Fantastik or a similar
product. Rinse well and dry. Finish cleaning by applying full strength isopropyl alcohol with a sponge or soft brush. Rinse well and dry.

Countertops

The Solid Surface was created for a lifetime of easy care. Just follow the
simple guidelines listed here to keep your surfaces looking good.
Routine Care:
The motorhome countertops are finished with one type of finish:
matte/satin. All solid surface sinks and bowls have the matte/satin finish.
Soapy water or ammonia-based cleaners will remove most dirt and stains
from all tops and bowls. However, slightly different techniques must be used
to remove different stains. Follow the recommendations below.
Cleaning Countertops:
• Most dirt and stains: Use soapy water or ammonia-based cleaner.
• Water marks: Wipe with damp cloth and towel dry.
• Difficult stains: Use soft scrub and a Grey Scotchbrite Pad.
• Disinfecting: Occasionally wipe surface with diluted household
bleach (one part water and one part bleach).
Cleaning Solid Surfaces Sink:
Occasionally clean by using Soft Scrub Liquid Cleanser and a Grey
Scotchbrite Pad. Scrub the sink, rinse and towel dry. Do this as often as you
feel necessary.
Removing Cuts and Scratches:
Because the beauty of the surface goes all the way through the Solid
Surface, the countertops are completely renewable. Use the following
instructions to remove minor cuts and scratches.
• Sand with 180 grit and then 320 grit sandpaper until the scratch is gone.
• Restore the finish using a Grey Scotchbrite Pad. Never sand hard in one
small area. Feather out lightly to blend restoration.
Preventing Heat Damage:
The Solid Surface withstands heat better than ordinary surface materials;
however, hot pans and some heat-generating appliances, such as frying pans
or crockpots, can damage the surface. To prevent heat damage, always use a
hot pad or a trivet with rubber feet to protect the surface. In most cases the
surface can be repaired if it is accidentally damaged.
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Other Important Tips:
Avoid using strong chemicals on the Solid Surface such as paint removers or
oven cleaners. If these come in contact with the Solid Surface quickly wash with
water. Avoid contact with nail polish or nail polish remover. If contact is made
quickly wash with water.

NOTE: Do not cut directly on the solid surface. Always run cold
water into the Solid Surface sink when pouring boiling water into
the sink.

Windows

Water Spots:
Any glass will develop water spots if the glass is not cleaned properly. A
spotting effect is magnified when the glass has a reflective finish. Use a
squeegee immediately after washing to reduce water spotting. To remove
stubborn water stains from reflective glass we recommend Cerium Oxide
Polishing Compound, made by C.R. Lawrence, available at most glass shops.
Condensation:
Condensation is a natural phenomenon. The amount of condensation will
vary with climate conditions, particularly in relative humidity.
Condensation occurs from water vapor present in the air. Each of us add
more vapors by breathing, bathing, cooking, etc. Water vapor collects
wherever there is available air space. When the temperature reaches the
dew point, the water vapor in the air condenses and changes to liquid form.
Controlling Moisture Condensation:
Reduce or eliminate interior moisture condensation during cold weather by
using the following steps:
• Partially open the roof vents and windows so that outside air can circulate
into the interior. Increase the ventilation when larger numbers of people
are in the motorhome. Even in raining or snowing conditions the air outside will be far drier than the interior air.
• Install a dehumidifier. Continuous use of a dehumidifier is effective in
removing excess moisture from the interior air. Using a dehumidifier is
not a cure-all, however, it will reduce the amount of outside air needed for
ventilation.
• Run the range vent fan when cooking, and the bath vent fan (or open the
bath vent) when bathing, to reduce water vapor. Avoid excessive boiling
or use of hot water as it produces steam.
• Do not heat the motorhome interior with the range or oven. Heating with
the range or oven increases the risk of toxic fumes and allows oxygen
depletion. Also, open flames add moisture to the interior air increasing
condensation.

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• In very cold weather leave the cabinet and closet doors partially open. The
air flow will warm and ventilate the interior of the storage compartments
and the exterior wall surface, reducing or eliminating condensation and
prevent the possibility of ice formations.
• To maintain the miniblinds on a frequent basis, vacuum with the brush
attachment, or use a dusting tools (available on the market) designed
specifically for mini-blinds.
• Wash the miniblinds with mild soap and water in a tub, or hang the blinds
on a fence or wall and gently rinse them with a hose.

• To maintain the miniblinds on a frequent basis, vacuum with the brush
attachment, or use a dusting tool (available on the market) designed
specifically for mini-blinds.
• Wash the miniblinds with mild soap and water in a tub, or hang the
blinds on a fence or wall and gently rinse them with a hose.

Day/Night Shades
The day/night shades are made of a polyester blended material. Use the
following guidelines to care and maintain the day/night shades.
• Vacuum with a brush attachment.
• Use a weak solution of dish soap and water to spot clean the blinds with
a slightly damp cloth. Avoid soaking or saturating the shades with water.
This will break down the finish of the shade.
• When not in use, leave the shades folded up. This helps to hold the
shape of the pleats.
• String tension for the shades should be equal. The tension can be adjusted if the shades will not remain folded up.
Short term storage is defined as storing the motorhome for a period of thirty
days or less. Properly preparing the motorhome during periods of short term
storage will make bringing the motorhome out of storage a much easier
process. Winterize the plumbing system if the motorhome is stored in winter
months or if stored when temperatures are below 32º F.

Mini-Blinds

Day/Night Shades
(Optional)

STORAGE

- Short Term

Checklist-Short Term Storage
• If applicable, retract the slide room(s). Do not store the
motorhome with slide room(s) extended.
• Shut off all appliances. Close the LP-Gas valve.
• Remove all articles from refrigerator/freezer and clean thoroughly.
Prop doors open to prevent mildew.

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• The holding tanks should be drained and fresh water system winterized with
potable antifreeze or winterize the plumbing system using air pressure.
• Retract and secure all awnings.
• Turn the battery cut-off switch OFF.
• If applicable, disable auto-genstart feature.
• Batteries should be stored fully charged. Batteries stored in a discharged state will readily freeze.
• If possible, park the motorhome leaving the batteries accessible. A battery may be charged or changed without moving the motorhome.
• If available, leave the motorhome hooked to shore power. Leave the
main battery disconnect switches ON.
• Careful placement of a small heat source in the interior will help control
moisture. Desiccate filter systems will help remove interior moisture.
• If AC power is not available turn main battery disconnect switches OFF.
• If possible, store the motorhome inside a storage building.
• If stored outside, inspect all seams and seals for possible leakage.
• Store the motorhome with a full fuel tank to help against moisture condensing at top of fuel tank.
• Vents and windows should be closed to prevent wind driven rain
entrance.
• Tires should be stored at maximum inflation pressure.
• A full interior inspection for water leaks should be made bi-monthly,
inspecting behind all cabinet doors and drawers.

STORAGE

- Long Term

Long term storage of the motorhome can be defined as leaving a motorhome
unattended for a period of thirty days or more. A motorhome requires protection
from the elements just as a house or a car would. When left out in the environment
without proper storage or maintenance, a motorhome, house or car is vulnerable to
the moisture and oxidation processes inherent in the environment.
There are preventative measures which should be taken and preferable situations
to use when storing a motorhome. Such measures will aid in protecting and preventing a motorhome from the damaging effects caused by an accumulation of moisture.

NOTE: The natural process of moisture in the air condensing will
occur with temperature changes of 30º Fahrenheit or more in one
day. Humidity readings of 60% or greater will allow the accumulated moisture to remain for extended periods of time.
If the motorhome is stored in a location where AC power is not available:
• Turn off all appliances.
• If possible, situate the motorhome so the batteries remain
accessible. This allows a battery to be charged or replaced
without moving the motorhome.
• Charge the batteries to a full state of charge.
• Turn the main battery disconnects to OFF.
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• When stored outside, use the available DC volt meters to
make a quick reference check of the batteries while the
motorhome is in storage. If the motorhome is stored outside solar panels may offset the parasitic loads.
• Preventative measures should be used if the voltage readings are low. By using preventative measures, bringing
the motorhome out of storage or moving the motorhome
in case of an emergency is a much easier process.

NOTE: Batteries in a low state of charge will readily freeze.
Freezing will damage the battery.
If AC power is available:
• Both main battery disconnect switches will remain ON.
The inverter will charge both the house and engine battery banks. A 30 amp shore power service will be more
than adequate.

CAUTION: A 20 amp service using light duty extension cords
and the required adapters create serious voltage losses. Line
voltage loss and the resistance at each electrical connection is a
hazardous combination and should be avoided. Damage to sensitive electronic equipment may result!
Type of surface to park and store the motorhome on:
The type of surface the motorhome is parked upon will have an effect on
how much moisture accumulation occurs on the chassis and flooring. Moisture
can eventually seep into the interior. Further, the type of surface can affect the
tires.
• Gravel covered parking area still allows moisture to evaporate from
the ground, through the gravel and to the underside of the motorhome.
• Concrete pads seal the surface, allowing better ventilation under the
motorhome.
• Storage buildings with concrete floors or heated storage facilities
greatly reduce the amount of moisture accumulation and protect the
motorhome from moisture damage.
• Wet, oily, or greasy areas should be avoided. Highly reflective surfaces
such as sand or snow also should be avoided. Finally, heat absorbent
surfaces such as black asphalt will cause problems.
If the motorhome is stored outdoors:
• The interior should be heated to help prevent mold and
mildew growth. Moisture removing desiccate filter systems are available from hardware and RV supply stores.
Place the filter system inside the motorhome to reduce
inside moisture condensation or humidity. These systems
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help control mold and mildew growth.
• Proper winterization of the fresh water system will prevent
potential damage in extreme cold.
• Ultraviolet radiation affects soft goods and rubber products
such as: privacy curtains, window shades and tires. These
items should be protected.
• Cardboard templates can be made for the windows to protect
these items from exposure to direct sunlight.
• Tire covers are available to protect the sidewall of the tires
from cracking. Make sure the tires contain the correct air pressure. Underinflated tires can be damaged.
• Washing the exterior regularly will help control moss accumulation. The clear coat has UV protective substances. Waxing
the motorhome twice a year will augment these substances.
Inspect the motorhome:
• Perform a full interior inspection for water leaks every two
weeks while the motorhome is in storage. Open all cabinet
doors looking for signs of dampness or leaks. Inspect the ceiling areas around roof vents or other roof openings.
• The roof and sidewall seams should be inspected and cleaned
at least twice a year. Inspect for exterior sealant gaps of all
roof seams, vents, skylights, roof air conditioners and windows. If necessary, use the proper sealants and recommended
application procedures.
Fuel:
• A full tank of fuel will help moisture from condensing at the
top of the tank. Diesel fuel is an organic material which will
develop a microbe growth (black slime). Fuel stabilizers may
be added to help prevent the microbe growth. Consult the
Cummins manual or a Cummins distributor for further detailed
information on fuel stabilizers and additives.
Brakes:
• Brakes also suffer from non-use during periods of storage. The
bare metal machined surfaces of brake drums or rotors have
only a light coating of dust from the brake lining friction material. The brake dust is the only thing protecting the bare metal
surfaces from rusting. Only regular brake applications dry the
moisture preventing rust on brake drum or rotor surfaces.
During periods of non-use, oxygen and moisture oxidize the
machined surfaces. Only occasional use keeps these surfaces
from oxidizing. Rusty brake drum or rotor surfaces permeate
the brake linings upon the first few applications, reducing the
3 • 9 0

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friction action
of the linings.
Engine:
• Internal combustion engines need to be “exercised”
on a regular basis. This will ensure that an adequate
supply of lubricating oil coats the cylinder walls and
piston rings. Valve and valve seat surfaces also suffer
from non-use. Some valves will remain open depending
at which part of the combustion cycle the engine has
stopped. The heat and cold of the day allows moisture
to accumulate through the exhaust system.
Electric Motors:
• Electric motors in the motorhome should be operated
occasionally to help lubricate and keep surfaces rotating freely. These items include the roof air conditioners, dash fans, dash blower motor, furnace, heat
exchangers and powered roof vents.

• Plumbing Lines - Drain and protect by filling with approved RV
antifreeze.
• Fresh Water Tank - Drain.
• Body - Clean and wax. Oil locks and hinges. Repair roof seams as
needed.
• Countertop and Cabinets - Wash with mild soap and water.
• Curtains - Remove and clean according to care specifications.
• Windows - To protect the interior fabric from fading, cover windows
by pulling blinds, closing shades or using a separate cover such as a
sheet.
• Holding Tank - Drain and rinse. Close valves.

CHECKLIST

-Winter Storage

Add a small amount of antifreeze to keep valves and gaskets
lubricated.
• Drain Traps - Pour RV antifreeze down all drains.
• Batteries - Add distilled water and recharge if needed. Disconnect the
cables. Remove the batteries and store them in a cool dry place. Check
and recharge as needed. Never park the coach where the battery door
can not be opened.
• Refrigerator - Clean and leave both doors propped open. Cover the
exterior panels and roof vents.
• Air Conditioner - Remove the air filters. Clean or replace.
• Roof - Keep clear of snow accumulation or damage may occur.
• Interior/Exterior - Storing under cover or indoors helps extend
interiorand exterior life.
• Fuel Tank - Diesel fuel tank should be full of fuel.
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Storage - Removal

If the motorhome was properly and carefully prepared for storage, removing it from
storage will not be difficult. The following checklist pertains to items or areas which
should be checked before operating or moving the motorhome. If the motorhome
was not properly winterized, extensive freeze damage or other serious deterioration
may have occurred. Consult a dealer or an authorized service center for advice.
• Thoroughly inspect the outside of motorhome. Look for animal nests in
the wheel wells or in other out of the way places.
• Remove all appliance flue vent covers, ceiling vent covers and air conditioning covers. Be sure the refrigerator openings are free of debris,
insect nests, webs, etc.
• Open all doors and compartments. Check for animal or insect intrusion,
water damage or other types of damage which may have occurred.
• Check the state of charge of the batteries. If necessary fill the cells with
distilled water only and charge as necessary. Inspect the cable ends and
terminals. They should be clean and free of corrosion.
• Check all the chassis fluid levels: engine oil, engine coolant, hydraulic
fluid reservoir, transmission oil and rear axle oil.
• Start the engine, allowing it to reach operating temperature. Ensure the
engine instruments are indicating proper readings.
• While the engine is running check the operation of headlights, tail lights,
turn signals, back-up lights, license plate light and emergency flasher.
Operate the dash air conditioner. If the air conditioner does not work, or
the compressor makes unusual noises, have the system checked by a qualified air conditioner technician.
• Shut the engine down. Adjust or add fluids as necessary. Inspect the
engine for fluid leaks. Look under the motorhome for any other type of
fluid leaks.
• Drain, sanitize and flush the fresh water system as outlined in the
Water Section. Inspect the sewer drain hose and connections for leaks.
Replace if necessary.
• Operate all faucets and fixtures in the fresh water system. Run a sufficient amount of fresh water through all the water lines and faucets to
thoroughly purge any potable antifreeze from the fresh water system.

NOTE: Discard at least the first two trays of ice from the icemaker
to ensure the ice does not contain traces of antifreeze or other contaminates.
• Open cabinet doors and drawers inspecting for water leaks at joints or
fittings. Repair as necessary.
• Operate all 12 Volt lights and accessories. If something does not work
there may be a bad 12 Volt circuit breaker or blown fuse.
• Install new batteries in battery operated safety detectors or devices. Test
the carbon monoxide, LP-Gas and smoke detectors for proper operation.
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• Check that the monitor panel is functioning properly.
• Inspect the 120 Volt electrical system which includes the power
cord, inverter/converter all outlets and exposed wiring.

NOTE: Prepare the generator for operation following the
instructions in the Generator Manual.
• Start and run the generator.
• Ensure the batteries are being charged. Operate the 120 Volt appliances
and air conditioners. If an electrical item or appliance is not
functioning properly, contact the dealer or an authorized service
center to have it evaluated.
• Have a qualified technician inspect the LP-Gas system and
perform an LP Gas leak test. The leak test should also include an
LP-Gas regulator adjustment (if needed). The test can also verify
if the regulator is faulty and should be replaced. Have the LP-Gas
tank inspected.
• Operate each LP-Gas appliance. Observe all burner/pilot flames
for proper color and size.
• Inspect and clean the interior.
• Check the sealant around all roof and body seams and windows.
Reseal if necessary.
• Lubricate all the exterior locks, hinges and latches with a graphite
lubricant.
• Check the windshield wiper blade condition. Check the
wiper/washer operation.
• Wash and wax the exterior. Inspect the body for scratches or other
damage; touch up or repair as necessary. Flush the underside
thoroughly.
• Run through the operational checks for steering, brakes, engine
and transmission. Operate the motorhome slowly during these
checks to allow sufficient circulation of fluids and resetting of the
components.
• If desired, have the dealer or repair center double check any
preparation and correct any defects or make any necessary
adjustments.

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NOTES

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SECTION 4
APPLIANCES
INTRODUCTION • 97
REFRIGERATOR • 97
Operation Specifics • 98
Tips • 98
Refrigerator Controls • 98
Doors • 99
Control Panel - 1200 Series • 99
Control Panel - 800 Series • 99
Manual Mode Operation • 100
Auto Mode Operation • 100
Inverter Mode Operation • 100
ALARM • 101
Ice Maker Operation (Optional) • 101
High Humidity Operation • 102
Cooling Unit Fans (four door models) • 102
Defrosting the Refrigerator • 102
Cleaning the Refrigerator • 102
ICE MAKER - STAND ALONE (OPTIONAL) • 102
Operation • 102
Care & Cleaning • 103
HOT WATER DISPENSER (OPTIONAL) • 103
MICROWAVE OVEN • 104
Convection Cooking • 108
Tips • 109
Care & Cleaning • 110
COOKTOP • 110
Burner Grate • 111
Tips • 111
Care & Cleaning • 111
Porcelain Enamel • 112

AIR CONDITIONER - ROOF • 112
Heat Pump • 113
Operation • 113
Return Air Filters • 114
FURNACE • 114
Operation • 114
Using the Furnace • 115
Tips • 115
AQUA-HOT (OPTIONAL) • 116
Operation • 117
Maintenance • 118
WATER HEATER • 120
Operation • 120
LP-Gas Operations • 120
120 Volt AC Operations • 120
Troubleshooting LP-Gas Operations • 121
Troubleshooting Electric Operations • 121
Temperature Pressure Relief Valve • 121
WASHER/DRYER PREPARED • 123
WASHER/DRYER (OPTIONAL) • 123
Operating Instructions • 124
Cleaning the Drain Screen • 124
Cleaning the Washer/Dryer • 125
Winterizing the Washer/Dryer • 125

4

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This section covers operation and care of various appliances found in the
motorhome. The motorhome is equipped with a refrigerator, cooktop,
microwave, furnace, water heater, roof air conditioner and several optional
appliances. Many of these appliances operate on AC or DC current, LP-Gas,
or a combination of all three.

INTRODUCTION

Detailed information with CAUTION or WARNING
instructions for the various appliances, other than what is
found in this section, can be found in the manufacturer’s
manual.
WARNING: Before entering any type of refueling station
make sure all LP-Gas operated appliances are off. Most
LP-Gas appliances used in recreational vehicles are vented
to the outside. When parked close to a gasoline pump, it is
possible for fuel vapors to enter this type of appliance and
ignite, resulting in an explosion or fire. Carbon monoxide
gas may cause nausea, fainting or death. Operating an LPGas appliance with inadequate ventilation or partial blockage of the flue can result in carbon monoxide poisoning. Do
not store flammable liquids such as lighter fluid, gasoline or
propane in the outside refrigerator compartment.
The refrigerator in the motorhome operates on a different principle than a
standard household refrigerator. Knowing these differences should answer
questions or solve problems that may arise. A standard household refrigerator
uses a different type of refrigerant. A compressor will pump refrigerant vapor
into a condenser where the heat from the refrigerant will be dissipated and the
vapor will change to a liquid. The liquid refrigerant is pumped through a
metered orifice or capillary tube at the evaporator. At this time, the refrigerant
changes from liquid to a vapor. This change cools the evaporator. Air is then
blown across the evaporator and into the interior of the refrigerator. This system is efficient as long as 120 Volts AC is available; however, this does not
allow the freedom a recreational vehicle is designed to give. The recreational
vehicle refrigerator uses a combination of fluids and gas for refrigeration;
ammonia, water, sodium chromate and hydrogen gas. This combination is put
into a pressurized cooling unit at approximately 350 psi. It is heated to a
gaseous state, which then rises to the top of the cooling unit into a condenser
where it forms droplets as it cools. As the vapor condenses it will “extract or
absorb” heat from the inside of the refrigerator. Using gravity, the droplets
return through the absorber coils to the absorber vessel to start the process
again. The cooling unit has specific guidelines that need to be followed for
proper operation and insured longevity. Keeping these guidelines in mind
should give years of faithful trouble free service.

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REFRIGERATOR

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Operation
Specifics

The refrigerator operates from either LP-Gas or 120 Volts AC electric. Controls
are electronic which require the DC Voltage to be no higher than 15.4 Volts DC or
lower than 10.5 Volts DC. The AC voltage limits are 132 Volts AC maximum and
108 Volts AC minimum. The refrigerator (from front view) needs to be leveled
within 3º side to side and 6º front to back. Using a torpedo or bulls eye (fence post)
level, place the level onto the freezer plate. The level should be within the circle by
a half of a bubble. Generally, this is within comfortable living conditions. The heat
source for the cooling unit is supplied by an electric heating element, or an LP-Gas
flame. The heat source, which is calibrated in BTU’s (British Thermal Units), is
concentrated to a specific area of the cooling unit. Operating the refrigerator in an
“off level” condition separates the sodium chromate which will crystallize from the
heat source. This blocks the recirculation action of the cooling unit and causes accumulative, irreparable damage. It is safe to operate the refrigerator while driving the
motorhome because the chemicals are in a constant state of agitation from the
movement and will not be at risk for separation. The LP-Gas side of the refrigerator
and the LP-Gas pressure need to be serviced yearly, depending on use. Over time
the BTU rating of the LP-Gas can change, affecting the refrigerator’s performance.
Ambient air temperature and humidity can also affect its performance and function.
The BTU rating is lower when operating on LP-Gas at an altitude higher than 5,500
feet. This affects the refrigerator’s performance. If possible, switch mode operation
to 120 Volts AC electric while at a higher altitude.

WARNING: Do not use the refrigerator if there is an ammonia
smell inside or outside of the refrigerator, or if a yellowish substance appears inside the box or in the outside access compartment. This can be an indication of a refrigerant leak. Contact an
authorized repair facility.

Tips

Refrigerator
Controls

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• If possible, cool items first before putting them into the refrigerator.
• Keep the doors shut. Think about what you want before opening the doors.
• Allow the refrigerator 24 hours of operation before actual use to help it get
a “head start” with the refrigeration process.
• A box of open baking soda will help absorb food odors. Wipe up any
spilled soda.
The refrigerator controls are DC (direct current) operated through an electronic
circuit board. The refrigerator which operates from heat (as described previously)
gets its heat source two different ways: an electric heating element or a flame from
LP-Gas. Mode operation and temperature selection is made by controls on the face
of the refrigerator. In order for the refrigerator to operate the house batteries must
be charged, the LP-Gas valve on, the water valve on (ice maker option only), and
the refrigerator AC cord plugged in (located in outside refrigerator access door). If
the controls do not light up, check the house batteries charge status or see if the 12
Volt wires are plugged into the refrigerator’s circuit board (outside in refrigerator
access door).
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The refrigerator doors are positive lock style doors that close with a “click”
to prevent accidental door opening while traveling. When storing the
motorhome, the refrigerator doors have a storage position that locks the doors
partially open. This will help reduce odor from mold and bacteria build-up.
Use this feature. A completely closed up refrigerator in storage is a perfect
habitat for molds and bacteria to grow. To use the storage feature, open doors
approximately halfway and slide the latch into the cut-out of the strike plate.

ON/OFF Button - Press this button to
turn the refrigerator ON. Press and
hold this button to turn the refrigerator
OFF.
LED Display - Window has a light
which illuminates when any button is
pressed and remains on for 10 seconds
after button is released. Display indicates operation functions and fault
codes should refrigerator malfunction.
MODE Button - Press and hold this
button to cycle the refrigerator
through the different modes available:
AUTO, AC, and LP modes. Release
the button when the desired mode is
displayed.
TEMP SET Button - Press and hold
the button to select the desired temperature setting. Five settings are
available, from COLD to COLDEST.

Doors

Control Panel - 1200 Series

The Refrigerator Control Panel requires 12 Volt DC to operate.

Control Panel - 800 Series

The Refrigerator Control Panel requires 12 Volt DC to operate.

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Manual Mode
Operation

This mode will lock the refrigerator into either LP-Gas or electric AC operation. Press and hold the MODE button until LP or AC is displayed. Release when
the desired function is lit. The Alarm will sound and a code will be displayed if the
function selected is interrupted or a failure occurs. Note the code and turn the
refrigerator off to silence the alarm. Refer to the manufacturer’s manual for a list
of codes and their meanings.

Auto Mode
Operation

This feature will automatically select 120 Volts AC over LP-Gas operation. If
120 Volts AC is available, it will use this source for operation until AC
service has been discontinued. Once AC is discontinued, the alarm will sound and
the refrigerator will automatically switch to LP-Gas operation. If the
refrigerator fails to light, the alarm will sound and a code will be displayed.
Press and hold the MODE button until AUTO is displayed, release the
button. Press and hold the TEMP SET button until desired temperature is
displayed, release button. In AUTO mode, AC or LP will remain lit for 10
seconds upon initial start or when mode has changed.

Inverter Mode
Operation

While traveling, the refrigerator may be operated using the 120 Volt AC electric
mode to keep the refrigerator contents cool. The electrical combination of the
engine’s alternator and the inverter will supply the power necessary to operate the
refrigerator on 120 Volts AC. Operating the refrigerator on LP-Gas when refueling
can be dangerous. Use the AC electric mode when in travel to avoid this situation.
Disable this feature when the engine is turned off. House battery power will be
quickly consumed when using the inverter to operate the refrigerator on AC electric. Hook to shore power, start the generator or switch refrigerator operation to LP
Gas. Turn the inverter off when not in use.
To enable this feature:
1. Turn the inverter ON.
2. Turn the refrigerator ON. Select AC power operation.
To disable this feature:
1. Turn the inverter OFF.
2. Hook to shore power, start the generator or switch operation to LPGas.
NOTE: Use this feature only when the engine is running. Failure to
disable this feature with the engine off will result in dead house batteries. Hook to shore power, start the generator or switch refrigerator
operation to LP-Gas.

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The refrigerator uses an audible alarm that will sound for the following
reasons:
1. DC or AC voltage is higher or lower than allowed specifications.
2. Refrigerator is set to auto mode and the 120 Volts AC is discontinued.
3. Liquid Petroleum Gas mode fails to light initially or fails to
light after a period of operation.
4. Door has been left open longer than two minutes.
5. The circuit board detects a failure resulting in a code being
displayed.

Alarm

NOTE: If the alarm sounds, note the code in the LED display and turn the refrigerator off to silence the alarm.
Refer to the manufacturer’s manual for the list of codes
and their meanings.
NOTE: Keep the interior box temperature at or below 54º
F to reduce the possibility of food spoilage. The refrigerator works harder to keep a low box temperature, especially
in hot, humid climates. Low box temperature may also
add quicker frost build-up.
WARNING: Make sure all flames are extinguished and the
LP-Gas valve is off before refueling. LP-Gas and gasoline
are highly flammable which can ignite, resulting in an
explosion, fire or death. Many states have passed laws
regarding having the LP-Gas valve open while traveling.
Know the laws for the particular state in which you are
traveling.

The ice maker works from 120 volts AC only. The ice maker will
start to function only after the freezer temperature is low enough. City
water or the water pump must be on, and the valve (located in vanity
cabinet) for the water supply line to the ice maker must be on. Pulling
the metal arm (bail) down will turn the ice maker on. Pushing the arm up
will turn the ice maker off.
If the ice maker is in operation while the motorhome is in motion, water
may spill out of the ice tray. Raise the ice maker arm to stop ice production while the motorhome is in transit.

Ice Maker
Operation
(Optional)

NOTE: Do not use the first one or two trays of ice if the
refrigerator has been in storage. Ice cubes may have contaminates. Do not operate the ice maker without water
pressure supplied to the refrigerator. This can cause damage to the ice maker assembly.

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High Humidity
Operation

The refrigerator is equipped with a heating element located in the flapper
on the left door (four door model), or in the door (two door model). The heating
element is activated when the refrigerator is turned on to any mode to help prevent moisture build-up in high humidity conditions.

Cooling Unit Fans
(four door models)

The cooling unit is equipped with a pair of cooling fans to help pass air
across the cooling unit. These fans start automatically and will be audible when
in operation.

Defrosting
the Refrigerator

Turn the refrigerator off and remove all items. Leave the drip tray under the
cooling fins. Do not use heating guns, hair dryer or sharp objects to remove
frost build-up, as these can damage the interior. Leave all doors open. Defrost
time can be shortened using trays of warm water. Wipe off excess water using
paper towels or cotton cloth.

Cleaning
the Refrigerator

Wipe using only cotton or paper towels. Products such as FORMULA 409,
DAWN and FANTASTIK are acceptable cleaners. Do not use scouring pads or
abrasive cleanser as these can damage the interior finish.

ICE MAKER STAND ALONE
(OPTIONAL)

Operation

The ice maker operates from 120 Volt power, requiring either
the generator or the inverter to be ON, or the motorhome must be
connected to shore power. Water for the ice maker is supplied by
the potable water system and requires the 12 Volt water pump to
be on for water pressure or for the motorhome to be connected to
city water. The supply valve on the distribution manifold must be
on in order for the icemaker to produce ice.

Locate the ON/OFF switch on the lower front panel.
If the Ice Maker fails to make ice or makes ice intermittently:
1. Be sure there is 120 Volt power available from either the generator, inverter or shore power.
2. Check if the water pump is ON or if there is city water.
3. Check if the water shut-off valve to the ice maker is open.

NOTE: When the ice maker is not in use all ice should be
removed and the door should be propped open about one (1)
inch for ventilation.
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Clean the interior with mild detergent and warm water. Avoid the use of
solvent cleaning agents or abrasives on the interior. These cleaners may
transmit taste to the ice cubes and food, or damage and discolor the interior.
The exterior may be cleaned with mild detergent and warm water. The front
grill should be kept free of dust and lint to permit free air flow to the condenser. The condenser coil, located behind the front grill, should be cleaned
three to four times each year. Clean more often if traveling with pets. Use a
brush or vacuum cleaner to remove dirt, lint and other accumulations from
the condenser coil.

Care & Cleaning

U-Line Ice Maker front grill. To
remove front grill, unscrew the
Phillips screw.

See the Manufacturer’s Instructions located in the
motorhome’s Information File for specific operating instructions.
The water is electrically heated to a brewing/cooking hot 190° F (88° C) by
a compact tank that mounts under the sink. A thermostat maintains the water at
this approximate temperature. When you turn the tap, cold water enters the bottom of the tank and forces hot water out of the faucet. The
system is vented so the tank is not pressurized.

HOT WATER
DISPENSER
(Optional)

Operation
Locate the power cord and plug it into a 120V receptacle.
It will take 10 to 15 minutes for water to reach 190° F (88°
C) in temperature. Steam or hot water may come out of the
faucet without turning it on. After 10 to 15 minutes turn on
the faucet for about 20 seconds to bleed off any steam until
the hot water is dispersed. Allow the water in the tank to
reheat. Repeat this step one or two times. When hot water
with no steam is dispensed, turn the faucet on to use hot
water. To shut off the system, unplug the power cord.
Temperature Adjustment
If the steam cannot be stopped, or the water boils, adjust
temperature as follows:
• Unplug the power cord.
• Remove the screw and access cover.
• Insert a screwdriver in the slot of the thermostat
adjusting screw and turn clockwise a 1/2 notch to
increase the water temperature, or counterclockwise a
1/2 notch to decrease the water temperature.
• Reinstall the access cover and plug the power cord into
a 120V receptacle.

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• Draw three or four cups of water and allow unit to reheat.
• Repeat the procedure until desired temperature is reached.
DO NOT ALLOW THE WATER TO BOIL.
Cleaning Hot Water Dispenser
Use only mild cleaners to clean the dispenser spout and plastic components.
Use of cleaning agents containing acids, alkalies and organic solvents will
result in the deterioration of plastic components.

WARNING: Use care when operating this unit. Do not allow
children to operate this unit. The tank is a non-pressure tank,
DO NOT modify this system. DO NOT close the vent tube or
connect other types of faucets or valves to the tank. Use only
the faucet supplied. DO NOT allow the water to boil. The
water and steam dispensed can instantly cause scalds or
burns. To minimize the possibility of fire, DO NOT store
flammable items such as rags, paper or aerosol cans near the
tank. DO NOT store or use gasoline or other flammable
vapors and liquids in the vicinity of this unit. DO NOT
remove or alter the thermal safety fuse. If the thermal fuse is
open contact your authorized service center. To prevent electrical shock, disconnect the power cord before removing the
access cover to adjust or service the thermostat.

MICROWAVE
OVEN

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The microwave oven is operated from 120 Volt AC supplied by either shore
power, the generator or the inverter. Microwaves heat food by using sound
waves, generated at a very high frequency (2,450 MHZ) to agitate the water
molecules inside the item being heated. The higher the water content is to
solids, the faster the response or the shorter the cooking time. Inside the
microwave is a turntable that rotates when the microwave is operating. This
helps to heat the food evenly. The turntable can be turned off if a baking dish or
other large item is used. The microwave is designed to sit over a range or cooktop. When cooking from the cooktop, use the microwave’s two speed
ventilation fan. The fan draws air in from the bottom of the microwave through
a pair of grease filters, then discharges the filtered air out through a replaceable
charcoal filter at the top. The ventilation fan may be operated manually or may
start automatically by a thermostat activated from heat produced by the cooktop.
The microwave offers many different features. Some include varied cooking
times with different power settings: automatic sensor cooking, a kitchen timer,
Metric to American conversion chart (which includes temperature and weight),
on screen programming help, childproof lockout and auto defrost cycles. The
screen may be programmed to display one of three different languages.
The microwave/convection oven has the ability to cook food with heat like
an electric oven, or preheat the oven with heat and cook with microwaves.
Other features include the ability to cook with microwaves and convection at
the same time, sensor cooking and a built-in broiler.
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WARNING: If a fire flares up when using the cooktop,
turn off the ventilation fan. The fan may spread the flame.
If the ventilation fan has started automatically from a
heated cooktop, it can not be manually turned off. Turn off
the microwave AC circuit breaker or unplug the unit to
prevent the flame from getting up into the microwave and
spreading the fire.
NOTE: When cooking in convection mode try to avoid
using the inverter as the AC power source due to the high
rate of battery consumption.
NOTE: The microwave is for food preparation only. Do not
use the microwave to dry clothes, newspapers, shoes or other
items.
Safety Lock:
The microwave comes with a safety lock feature. This feature prevents
the oven from operating accidentally. To use this feature:
• Press the CUSTOM HELP pad.
• Press the 1 pad.
• Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad.
The oven is now locked. If any button is pressed the word LOCK appears
on the screen and the oven will not operate. The fan and hood light are still
operational with the Safety Lock feature on. To return the oven to normal
operation:
• Press the CUSTOM HELP pad.
• Press the 1 pad.
• Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad. The oven will resume normal
operation.
Setting The Clock:
• Press the STOP/CLEAR pad.
• Press the CLOCK pad.
• Enter correct time in sequence using the number pads.
• Press the CLOCK pad to begin time.

NOTE: The clock is a 12 hour clock only. When AC power
is discontinued the clock time will be erased.
Kitchen Timer:
• Press the KITCHEN TIMER pad.
• Using the number pads enter minutes and seconds, or 00 if no seconds.
• Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad to begin timer. Timer end will be
signaled by one long beep.

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Press the STOP/CLEAR pad to:
• Erase, if you make a mistake during programming.
• Cancel the kitchen timer.
• Stop the oven temporarily during cooking.
(Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad to resume.)
• Return the time of day to the display.
• Cancel a program during cooking (touch the pad twice).
Turntable On/Off:
• Press TURNTABLE ON/OFF pad to stop or start the turntable.
• Enter the cook time desired minutes and seconds.
• Enter power level desired.
• Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad.
Hood Light:
To turn the hood light on or off, touch the LIGHT button.
Ventilation Fan:
Press the FAN HI/LO button once for high, twice for low and three
times for off.
Microwave - Timed Cooking:
The maximum amount of cooking time is 99 minutes and 99 seconds.
Be sure to enter minutes and seconds. If seconds are not desired, enter 00.
Press and hold the START/TOUCH-ON. The microwave pad operates at
100% power until the pad is released. This mode can be used for up to three
minutes and up to three consecutive cycles.
One Minute Cook Times:
Press the MINUTE PLUS pad if one minute at full power is desired or to
add one minute intervals to cooking time. The MINUTE PLUS pad must be
pressed within one minute of closing the door, or during selected cooking time.
For safety, the minute plus feature will lockout if there is no microwave
activity within one minute of closing the door. Use the START/TOUCH-ON
pad to reset the one minute safety period.
Microwave Settings:
To use 100% power, enter cook time by pressing the number pads. Press the
START/TOUCH-ON pad to begin cook time.
To use settings lower than 100% power, use the number pads to enter
desired cooking time. Press the POWER LEVEL pad. Use the number pad
to select desired power level. Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad to
begin cook time.

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Multiple Sequence Cooking:
If sequential cooking times with varied power levels are desired, press the
POWER LEVEL pad and select desired power level. Use the number pad to
enter cook time for the first interval. Press POWER LEVEL pad again,
select desired power level, then enter cook time for the next time period.
Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad to begin sequential cooking. The
microwave can hold up to four sequential cook time periods. If full power is
desired in any of the time periods, skip the power level step and 100% power
is automatically selected.
Keep Warm:
Press the KEEP WARM pad during cooking time to automatically keep
food warm for up to 30 minutes after cooking time has expired. To use this
feature after cooking time has expired or after the food has been removed and
reheating is desired, place the food back into oven and press the KEEP
WARM pad.
Defrosting can be done on manual time selection or use the microwave’s
CompuDefrost.
Manual Defrost:
Press the POWER LEVEL pad. Select number 3 for defrost power. Enter
desired defrost time. Be sure to stir or break food apart at regular intervals.
CompuDefrost:
The microwave has automated defrost programs for different foods and
weights. Press the COMPUDEFROST pad to enter this mode. Press
COMPUDEFROST again to select between ground meat, steak or chicken.
Use number pads to enter weight of food being defrosted. Press
START/TOUCH-ON to begin defrost cycle
Sensor Cooking:
The microwave has electronic sensors that sense moisture or humidity
given off by the food during the cooking process. Electronic sensors will be
affected if room temperature exceeds 95° F. To adjust the sensor cooking
mode to allow for more or less cooking time, press the SENSOR COOK
pad. Press the POWER LEVEL pad once to increase cooking time or twice
to decrease cook time.
To use the sensor cooking mode, press the SENSOR COOK pad. Select
the number or food desired from the library listed adjacent to the SENSOR
COOK pad. Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad to begin sensor cooking.

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Convection Cooking

The interior of the microwave produces heat just as it does in a regular oven.
The convection cooking mode has special options such as a broil mode, plus the
ability to preheat oven by convection and use microwaves to complete cooking
or to preheat.

NOTE: When using the convection oven feature, leave the
turntable in place and do not restrict the rotation. This can
damage the microwave.
Cooking with Convection:
Press the CONVEC pad. Press the numbered pad with the desired cooking
temperature. Press the numbered pads for desired cooking time. Press the
START/TOUCH-ON pad to begin convection cooking.
Manual Broiling:
The Manual Broiling temperature is automatically preset to 450° F. Only the
cooking time can be adjusted.
To use the broiler, press the BROIL pad. Enter amount of cooking time.
Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad to begin preheating the oven. Four beeps
will signal the end of the preheat cycle. Food can now be placed into the oven.
CompuBroil:
The CompuBroil cooking method has programs preset for common foods
like hamburger, steak, chicken and fish. Temperature and time are preset
depending on the food quantity. The amount of cooking time can be adjusted to
fit any particular needs. The POWER LEVEL pad will vary the preset cooking
time. Press once for more time and twice for less time.
To use the CompuBroil feature, press the COMPUBROIL pad. Select the
food number from the food library next to the CompuBroil pad. Enter the number of pieces being broiled. Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad to begin the
preheat cycle. A series of four beeps signal the end of preheat cycle.
Automatic Mix Cooking:
This method combines both the convection oven and microwave at the same
time. While in this mode, the microwave will use 30% power on HIGH/MIX
and 10% power on LO/MIX. The convection temperature can be changed from
100 to 450° F. The default convection temperature is 325° F for both
HIGH/MIX and LO/MIX.
To use this feature select either HIGH/MIX or LOW/MIX. Use the
number pads to enter cooking time. Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad to
begin the mixed cooking cycle.
CompuRoast or CompuBake:
CompuRoast and CompuBake can be used for food items ranging from
pastries and cakes to roasts, chicken and pork. The temperature is preset for
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both functions. Only the cook times can be tailored for individual preference
by entering into either the CompuRoast or the CompuBake mode. Press the
POWER LEVEL pad once for more cooking time and twice for less
cooking time. To use either function, press the desired pad and enter the food
type from list next to the mode used. Enter the food type being cooked by
using the number pad. To use CompuBake, press the START/TOUCH-ON
pad to begin preheat cycle. To use CompuRoast, enter the weight of item
using the number pads. Press the START/TOUCH-ON pad to begin the preheat cycle. Four beeps will signal the end of the preheat cycle and the oven is
now ready.

• Check the type of cookware being used to see if it is
microwave or oven safe depending on the type of cooking
being done.
• Gold paint or glaze may contain a trace amount of gold which
is electrically conductive and not compatible for microwave.
Hand-painted china commonly contains traces of metal.
• To test utensil for microwave compatibility place it in the
microwave with an 8 oz. plastic cup of water. Set the
microwave at full power for one minute. Carefully feel the
utensil. The entire utensil should be cool to the touch.
• Cover food with a paper towel or upside-down plate to help
keep food spattering to a minimum. Place a paper towel on the
turntable to keep clean-up at a minimum. Use paper towels
with microwave use only.
• Clean all spills or spatters before they dry.
• Food odors may linger inside oven. To help eliminate odors,
combine the juice and the peel from one lemon, several whole
cloves and 8 oz. of water into a two cup bowl. Place in oven
on high power, bring to a boil for several minutes. Let cool in
the oven for several minutes.
• Some food wrappers may be foil lined. Check the wrapping
carefully before cooking or heating. Small amounts of foil are
acceptable if not wrinkled or near the sides of the microwave.
• If the microwave screen is not lit, plug another electrical appliance into the same outlet the microwave was plugged in to
verify AC power is present. If the test item works, contact an
appliance repair facility to have the microwave checked.

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Care & Cleaning

The exterior of the oven is plastic and metal. The interior is metal. Do not use
scouring pads, harsh or abrasive cleanser, chemical cleaners or petroleum based thinners as these can damage the finish. Use mild soap and water with a damp cloth or
paper towel to remove most stains or spills. When cleaning the touch pad, open the
door to prevent accidental operation. Use mild soap and water with a soft cloth. Avoid
using excess amounts of water on the touch pad. The turntable plate and oven racks
are dishwasher safe.
Grease Filters:
Do not operate the oven without the grease filters in place. This can damage the
microwave. Grease filters should be cleaned at least once a month. To remove the filters, use the pull tab to slide the filter to the end of the opening and tip down. Soak
the filters in the sink or in a dishpan filled with hot water and detergent.
• Do not use ammonia or other alkali based products. They may darken
the filter material.
• Agitate the filter. Use a scrub brush to remove caked on grease.
• Rinse the filter thoroughly and shake it dry. Place the filter back into the
opening, tip it upward and slide it to the end of the opening. Lock it in
place. Be careful not to kink or warp the filter upon installation.

COOKTOP

Cooktop burners use 110 Volt AC electronic ignition to light the burners. To supply
current to the cook top turn the inverter on, hook to shore power or start the generator.
To conserve energy, preheat the pans only when recommended and shorten the
cooking time by using the least amount of water possible. Do not let the flame extend
beyond the cooking utensil. When cooking, heat the food on a higher heat setting then
turn the heat down to finish cooking.
To Light the Burners:
1. Make sure the LP-Gas is turned on.
2. Push down the knob and turn it counter
clockwise to the ignite position.
3. Hold the knob down fully until the spark
ignites the gas and until the thermocouple is
heated (approximately 5 to 10 seconds). This
will activate the safety magnet and keep the
burner lit.
4. Release the knob and set the flame to the
desired setting.
5. Turn the knob clockwise to turn it off.
NOTE: All electric cook tops require burners to be heated 3-5 seconds
before use.

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The burner grate is attached to the cooktop cover by two spring
clips located on the underside of the cooktop cover. The burner
grate can be separated from the cooktop cover for cleaning
purposes. Place a towel down onto the countertop next to the
cooktop. Lift the cooktop cover up by the front corners, just high
enough to clear the top of the burners. Pull the cooktop cover
toward the front of the cooktop and lift it away. Place the cooktop
cover upside down onto the towel. Squeeze both of the grate
spring clips to remove the grate from cooktop cover.

Burner Grate

WARNING: If you smell gas, extinguish all open
flames and turn off the main gas supply. Liquid
propane is highly volatile, highly explosive and
extremely dangerous. Explosion, fire, property damage, injury or death can result. Propane is a “heavy”
gas and will lay on the floor and “hide” in corners.
Open all windows and doors. Do not touch any electrical switches. They may cause a spark which can
ignite. Contact a qualified service center to have the
problem correctly diagnosed and repaired before
resuming operation.

1. A yellow flame is an indication of incorrect fuel/air ratio. Lowered
BTU output and carbon build up can occur.
2. When cooking at an altitude above 5,000 feet the flame may change
appearance and the flame BTU output will be lowered. Allow extra
cooking time.
3. Do not allow the tips of the flame to extend beyond pan or pot edge.
When this occurs heat is wasted and possibility of injury increases.
4. Pre-heat the oven for 10 minutes prior to use.
• Clean all surfaces as soon as possible after boil overs or spillovers.
• Use warm soapy water to clean the burner grates, cooktops, painted
surfaces, porcelain surfaces, stainless steel surfaces and plastic items
on your range or cooktop. Grit or acid-type cleaners may ruin the
surface.
• Use only non-abrasive plastic scrubbing pads.
• Do not allow foods containing acids (such as lemon or tomato juice
or vinegar) to remain on porcelain or painted surfaces. Acids may
remove the glossy finish. Wipe up egg spills when cooktop is cool.
• Allow porcelain surfaces to cool before cleaning. Burns from the
heated surface may occur or the cooktop porcelain can crack.

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Tips

Cleaning &
Maintenance

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Regular cleaning with a soft cloth and a warm detergent solution is generally enough to keep the cooktop clean. Wash, rinse and dry with a soft cloth.
Thoroughly clean the cooktop when it is cool. Use a dry cloth or paper towel
while the surface is warm to the touch to clean splatters or spills. Cleaning will
be more difficult if spills bake on to the surface. Glass cleaner sprayed on a
paper towel should be used for the cooktop surface. Do not spray glass cleaner
directly on the surface. DO NOT use abrasive cleaners or steel wool. harsh
cleaners like bleach, ammonia and oven cleaner should NEVER be used. The
surface burner grate and caps should be cleaned using the same guidelines as
the cooktop surface.

Porcelain Enamel

Porcelain enamel is a type of glass fused on steel at a very high temperature. It is not extremely delicate but must be treated as glass. Sharp blows, radical surface temperature changes, etc., will cause enamel to chip or crack. Some
foods such as vinegar, lemon juice, tomatoes and milk contain acids which can
dull the finish of the enamel. To avoid dulling the finish, wipe up the spill
before it is baked on. The surface is glass and must be given consideration
when cleaning. Steel wool and coarse, gritty cleanser will scratch or mar the
surface. Any gentle kitchen cleanser powder or grease cleaner will be suitable.
For further information on care and maintenance of the porcelain, call”Hopes
Cultured Marble Polish” at 800-325-4026.

AIR CONDITIONER
ROOF

The motorhome is equipped with two 13,500 BTU roof air conditioners. The
roof air conditioners operate from 120 Volts AC only, either by shore power or
the generator. Operations are controlled by the 12 Volt DC comfort control.
The electronics in the comfort control use a type of telephone patch cord to
send a low voltage signal to the roof air conditioner’s circuit board. The circuit
board controls the desired roof air functions and LP-Gas furnace operation. The
refrigeration process in the roof air, primarily the same as the dash air conditioner or a household type refrigerator, functions as an enclosed system. The
refrigeration process repeats in a cycle. The refrigerant is drawn into the compressor. The high pressure vapor is sent to a condenser where the heat is
expelled into the atmosphere. The vapor leaves the condenser as a high pressure
liquid. This liquid is forced into a metered capillary tube and then into the evaporator or low side pressure. The refrigerant changes from liquid form to vapor
as the heat is extracted. The vapor is drawn back into the compressor to start
the cycle again. When operating the roof air in the heat pump mode, the refrigerant flow is reversed blowing the heated air into the interior of the motorhome.

NOTE: Air conditioning systems will freeze the moisture in
the air depending on the humidity content. Under high
humidity conditions it is recommended to set the blower fan
to HIGH speed.
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The heat pump mode offers heat by using the air conditioner as a heat
source. The air conditioning principle is reversed, supplying heated air to the
ceiling registers instead of refrigerated air. There are ambient temperature limitations of the heat pump mode.

Heat Pump

NOTE: The roof air conditioner will not operate in Heat
Pump mode with ambient temperatures at or below 24º
Fahrenheit.
If the heat pump mode is selected at or below 24° Fahrenheit, or if
operating in Heat Pump mode and temperature drops to 24º Fahrenheit, the
air conditioner will stop Heat Pump operation and Aux Heat will be displayed.
The furnace will be selected as the auxiliary heat source and will begin
operation. The furnace will remain the primary heat source until ambient
temperature rises above 42º Fahrenheit. When ambient temperature is between
24-42º Fahrenheit, a defrost cycle is initiated approximately every 40 minutes
of compressor operation. The blower motor will stop for five minutes and
Defrost will be displayed. After the defrost cycle the Heat Pump operation will
resume.
The roof air conditioner will operate only when the following needs
have been met:

Operation

• 120 Volts AC from either shore power or the generator is
supplied.
• House batteries are charged.
Thermostat Operation In Air Conditioner Mode:
• Slide ON/OFF switch to ON position.
• Press the MODE button repeatedly until Cool is displayed.
• Set desired fan speed by pressing the FAN button.
• Set desired cooling temperature by pressing the UP or DOWN
buttons.

NOTE: Compressor will engage two minutes after
blower motor activation. This prevents accidental
compressor activation against high pressure.

Comfort Control in air conditioner mode.

Heat Pump Operation:
• Slide ON/OFF switch to ON position.
• Press the MODE button repeatedly until Heat Pump is displayed.
• Set desired fan speed by pressing the FAN button.
• Set desired heating temperature by pressing the UP or DOWN buttons.

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Return Air Filters

The return air filters should be cleaned frequently. They are located on the
motorhome ceiling inside the air intake vent covers. Never run the air conditioner without the return air filters in place as this may plug the evaporator core
with dirt and substantially affect the performance of the air conditioner.
To Clean:
• Remove the vent covers and filters.
• Wash the filters and covers in warm soapy water. Do not use solvents.
• Rinse the filters and cover thoroughly with fresh water and allow them to dry.
• Reinstall the filters and covers.

FURNACE

The furnace and its related components are 12 Volt DC operated, using
LP-Gas as the fuel source. Electronic circuitry (automatic ignition) is used to
ignite the burner. The furnace uses outside air for the burner combustion and
exhaust is expelled through the outside vent. Inside air is drawn into the furnace
and blown across the internal heat exchanger. Heated air is then discharged
through ducted hoses which can be run throughout the motorhome. A warm air
discharge is incorporated to heat the motorhome’s holding tanks.

Operation

The furnace operates in the following manner: The wall thermostat sends a
signal to the front roof air conditioner circuit board, which closes a relay.
Closing a relay sends an electrical signal to the furnace to begin the ignition
cycle. There is a small time delay before the blower motor begins. Once the
blower motor attains a predetermined speed it will close the air prover or sail
switch. The sail switch, which is now closed, sends the electrical signal through
a high temperature protection switch, then to the automatic ignition circuit
board. After the thermostat is satisfied, the gas valve closes and extinguishes
the burner. The blower motor stops about two or three minutes after cool down.
The furnace will operate when the following conditions have been met:
1. The LP-Gas valve on the LP tank is open and the LP-Gas valve at the
furnace is on.
2. The house batteries in the motorhome are charged.

WARNING: IF YOU SMELL GAS extinguish all open flames
and turn off the main gas supply. Liquid propane is a highly
volatile, extremely dangerous gas. It can explode or ignite,
which may result in property damage, injury or death.
Propane is “heavy” and can “float” on the floor or “hide” in
corners. Open all windows and doors. Do not touch electrical
switches. They may spark, which can ignite. Keep all open
flames, spark producing devices and smoking material out of
the area. Contact a qualified service center to have the
problem correctly diagnosed and repaired before resuming
operation.
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CAUTION: Do not store any items or materials in the furnace
area. Restricted air flow may hamper furnace operation
leading to failure and/or fire hazard.
NOTE: The automatic ignition circuit board will attempt to
light the burner three times before the ignition board will go
into “lock-out.” If the burner does not light, the furnace
blower motor will continue to run and the wall thermostat will
have to be cycled off.
• Slide ON/OFF switch to ON position.
• Select the furnace mode on the Comfort Control using the MODE button.
• Select the AUTO speed with the Fan button.
• Select the desired temperature with the arrow UP and DOWN buttons.

Using the Furnace

NOTE: When washing the exterior of the motorhome, avoid a
direct stream of water into the outside furnace vents. This can
cause damage to the furnace.
• After storage the furnace may produce a musty smell during the first
couple of cycles.
• Operating the furnace at an altitude above 5,000 feet reduces the BTU
output due to air/fuel ratio.
• The furnace will periodically need to be serviced by a qualified
technician. If the furnace exhibits unusual symptoms or noises, or has an
unusual odor when operating, have the furnace checked or serviced.
• It is advisable to use the furnace to heat the inside of the motorhome
during transit. Outside temperature can vary to extreme cold. The dash
heater may not provide adequate heat to the interior.

Tips

If the furnace fails to light make sure the LP-Gas supply valves are open
and the LP-Gas switch is turned on. The furnace will not light if the blower
motor is not spinning to its specified speed. This may be due to a low house
battery charge condition. Hook-up to shore power and start the generator or main
engine to charge the batteries.

WARNING: If you smell gas and the blower motor is spinning,
do not attempt additional furnace operation as this may result
in an explosion, fire or personal injury. Contact a qualified
technician.

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AQUA-HOT
(Optional)

The Aqua-Hot heat system is specially designed for use in motorhomes. The
Aqua-Hot is an appliance combining a water heater with a furnace. The Aqua-Hot
will provide an almost endless supply of hot water and heat the interior of the
motorhome. A 50,000 BTU diesel fired burner and a 1,650 watt AC element heats
a 50/50 antifreeze solution to approximately 200º F. The antifreeze solution is
pumped through heat exchangers located throughout the motorhome. Four pumps
are used to circulate the antifreeze solution. Three pumps supply the solution to
the interior heat exchangers. The fourth pump circulates the antifreeze solution
through the engine. Fresh water is heated when pumped through a coil tube inside
the Aqua Hot.
Chlorine bleach or other concentrated chlorine bearing chemicals can cause
failure to the Aqua-Hot’s Domestic Water Loop (copper tubing) if not properly
and thoroughly rinsed. The Aqua-Hot’s copper tubing is rated for use with fresh
water and winterization solutions only. Periodic flushing with common household
chemicals, including bleach, has little or no effect on the heating system if properly rinsed with the fresh water afterwards. Failure of copper tubing, especially
soft or flexible copper, can result if materials other than water or winterization
solutions are allowed to reside inside the piping for extended periods as during
storage or other periods of non-use. The most common cause for failure is due to
an extended exposure to chlorine, solutions containing chlorine (i.e. bleach) or
hydrochloric acid.
NOTE: The Aqua-Hot must be turned ON before using any heat
feature. One of the following switch panels is used in your
motorhome.

Aqua-Hot

Water
Heater
110V

Diesel Burner
The diesel burner will consume approximately ½ gallon of diesel for each
hour of continuous burner operation. The diesel burner is rated at 12 Volt/65
watts. Three circulating pumps are rated at 12 Volt/12 watts each. The diesel fired
burner has a fast recovery rate. To heat the Aqua-Hot from the diesel burner turn
the switch to the ON position. The switch will illuminate when the Aqua-Hot is
ON. Allow 20-30 minutes for the Aqua-Hot to reach operating temperature before
operating heat exchangers or using hot water.

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Electric Heat Element
The electric element works well if plugged into 50 amp service. If the
motorhome is plugged into less than 50 amp service, exercise care so the electric service provided will not be overloaded. Electric operation recovery rate is
slower than the diesel burner. When the switch is turned on a relay will send
power from the 110 Volt AC panel to the electric element in the Aqua-Hot.
Allow two to three hours for the Aqua-Hot to reach operating temperature
when operating from the electric element.
Engine Heat Exchange System
The Aqua-Hot antifreeze solution is plumbed with the engine cooling system. This mixing feature allows the Aqua-Hot to heat the antifreeze and circulate the solution by a pump through the engine. The engine preheat feature
provides easy engine starting on cool mornings. When traveling, the heated
engine coolant may be pumped through the Aqua-Hot system. This will provide hot water and heat the interior using the exchangers.
Engine Preheat
Turn the diesel switch to the ON position. The diesel burner will light.
Turn the Engine Preheat to the ON position. This activates the engine pump
circulating coolant from the Aqua-Hot through the engine.
Interior Heat Exchangers
The heat exchangers are small radiators with 12 Volt DC blower motors.
Current consumption is approximately .25 watt per large heat exchanger. The
small heat exchanger used in the private bath and for the holding tank bay is
.10 watt.

One of the following thermostats is used in your motorhome.

Operation

Using the Living Room Comfort Control Thermostat:
• Select either diesel burner or electric element operation.
• Turn living room comfort control to ON.
• Depress mode button repeatedly until furnace is displayed.
• Select desired temperature setting using the up or down buttons.
Using the Bedroom Comfort Control Thermostat:
• Turn the bedroom comfort control to ON.
• Depress mode button repeatedly until furnace is displayed.
• Depressing the FAN and MODE button simultaneously will
alternate between Zones One and Two. Zone One controls
hallway and bathroom exchangers. Zone two operates bedroom exchanger.
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• Select desired temperature setting using the up or down buttons.
NOTE: The blower motor of the heat exchanger in the private
bathroom is controlled by the switch in the private bathroom.
When the switch is on, the bathroom blower motor will cycle on
and off when the hallway heat exchanger blower motor cycles on
or off.
NOTE: The HVAC (heating, ventilating, air conditioning)
system will not operate correctly when both comfort controls and
all zones are not in the same mode. DO NOT set control to display
furnace in one zone and cool displayed in another zone.
Using the Aqua-Hot Thermostat:
• Select either diesel burner or electric element operation.
• Turn thermostat to ON and select desired temperature setting.

Maintenance

Monthly:
Check the Aqua-Hot's 50/50 solution of water and antifreeze to ensure its
proper level. Do this by visually checking coolant level in Aqua-Hot's
expansion tank. This should be checked only when the Aqua-Hot is at operating
temperature. Adding solution to the expansion tank when the unit is cold will
result in a solution overflow when the Aqua-Hot heats to normal operating temperatures.
Annually:
Be sure to have the Aqua-Hot tuned up early. A tune up will consist of a fuel
nozzle and fuel filter replacement, as well as a thorough cleaning of the combustion chamber. This simple tune up will keep the Aqua-Hot running smoothly
throughout the year, as well as allow service personnel to inspect for additional
wear of other components. Signs that the Aqua-Hot may need servicing are:
continuous white exhaust smoke or poor ignition start up. When in operation
the Aqua-Hot should have a smooth, high-pitched whine. Loud growls or other
abnormal noises indicate service is required.

CAUTION: Before cleaning or servicing, disconnect all
power supplies.
For more details about the Aqua-Hot system see the Owner’s
Information Box.
The filter is on the curb side of motorhome, located behind fuel access door.
Remove the two bolts at the bottom of the fuel door and swing the door
upwards. The Aqua-Hot fuel filter/water separator is mounted on top of the
chassis frame support.
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Draining the Collection Bowl:
Water is heavier than fuel and will settle to the bottom of a fuel bowl
which will make it appear different in color. In high humidity environments
check the collection bowl more than annually. With the engine and the
Aqua-Hot off, open the drain to evacuate any contaminants and then close it.
Element Replacement:
The contamination level in the fuel determine the element’s replacement
frequency. Fuel flow to the Aqua-Hot becomes restricted as the element
gradually plugs up with contaminates, resulting in noticeable heating loss
and/or hard starting. If this occurs, change the element as soon as possible.
As a guideline, change the element every 500 hours, annually or at first
indication of heat loss, whichever occurs first. Always carry an extra
replacement element as one tankful of contaminated fuel can plug a fuel
filter.
To Replace the Element:
• Drain the filter unit of fuel by opening drain valve.
• Spin bowl/element from head and remove element.
• Coat new seals with motor oil and the install new element.
• Prime spin bowl/element with clean fuel.
• Spin bowl/element onto head and tighten firmly by hand.
• Start Aqua-Hot and check for leaks.

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WATER HEATER

Before using the water heater, purge all trapped air from the water system. To
purge the air and pressurize the system, fill the fresh water tank by using the on
board water pump or hooking up to city water. Check the tank for any obvious
water leaks. Once the system is pressurized turn the hot and cold valves on for
each water faucet, one at a time, inside and outside of the motorhome Run each
faucet until a steady stream of water with no air bubbles or air pockets are present. The water heater does not need to be operating while this is being done.

WARNING: IF YOU SMELL GAS extinguish all open flames
and turn off the main gas supply. Liquid propane is highly
volatile, highly explosive and extremely dangerous. Explosion,
fire, property damage, injury or death can result. Propane is a
“heavy” gas and will lay on the floor and “hide” in corners.
Open all windows and doors. Do not touch any electrical
switches. They may cause a spark which can ignite. Evacuate
the motorhome and shut off the LP Valve. Contact a qualified
service center to have the problem correctly diagnosed and
repaired before resuming operation.

Operation

The water heater will operate when the following conditions have been meet:
• 120 Volt AC has been supplied either from shore power or the generator.
• The LP-Gas valve on the LP tank is open.
• The battery cut-off switch at the entry door is ON.
• The house batteries are charged.

LP-Gas Operations

• Make sure the LP-Gas is turned on.
• Turn the water heater switch to the ON position. The water heater will make
an audible “roar” from the burner when ignited. The indicator light will
illuminate briefly then go out when the water heater is lit. The indicator light
will glow steady when the ignition cycle has gone into “lock-out”.

NOTE: It is not recommended to operate the water heater on
LP-Gas while the motorhome is in transit.

120 Volt AC
Operations

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• Have either shore power or the generator supplying AC voltage.
• Turn on the water heater switch located under the galley counter.
• Both gas and electric may be used at the same time. This will speed up the
process of heating water for large volume usage.

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• Turn off water heater when not in use to conserve LP-Gas.
• The water heater tank capacity is ten gallons. When running the shower,
conserve the heated water by shutting the shower water off when not in
immediate use.
• Use caution when adapted to 30 amp shore service. When the water heater
element is in operation it will use approximately 12 amps. Appliances
may need to be operated in sequence to avoid tripping a breaker.
• The temperature and pressure (T & P) safety relief valve on the outside
of the water heater is set to open at 210°F or 150 psi. When water
temperature and pressure reach these settings the valve may drip until
the pressure has dropped. Avoid opening the T & P valve manually as it
may continued to leak. The valves can be purchased from most hardware
stores.

WARNING: Before beginning any service or work on the
water heater make sure the LP-Gas is turned off, the 120
Volt AC source has been disconnected and the 12 Volt DC
source has been disconnected. Failure to do so can result in
explosion, fire or injury.
• If water heater fails to light check the outside burner tube for obstructions
Spiders may make nests in the burner tube.
• If the indicator light on the monitor panel does not light and the water
water heater does not light, make sure the battery cut-off switch at the
entry door is on, or check for a blown fuse in the house distribution
panel.

• If the switch at the galley is on but there is no hot water, check the
ON/OFF switch located outside behind the water heater inspection
panel.
• If the 120 Volt piloted switch does not light check the AC source,
breaker, shore cord connection or transfer switch.

The water heater is equipped with a temperature-pressure relief valve. The
water heater may discharge at the temperature-pressure relief valve during the
heating cycle, due to thermal expansion of water. The temperature-pressure
relief valve is designed to open if the water temperature within the heater
reaches 210°F (98.8°C), or if the water heater pressure reaches 150 psi. This
can be related to the fact the motorhome utilizes a closed system. When there
is a discharge, a normal occurrence, it should not be considered a faulty valve.

WINDSOR

Troubleshooting LP-Gas Operations

Troubleshooting Electric Operations

TemperaturePressure
Relief Valve

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The water heater by design has an internal air pocket to reduce the
possibilities of dripping or weeping. The expanding of water, in time, will
absorb the air and pocket. The air will have to be replaced utilizing a simple
procedure when this occurs.

CAUTION: Ensure the water heater storage tank is cool
prior to making any check of the valve.
Step 1: Turn OFF the water heater.
Step 2: Shut OFF the incoming water supply.
Step 3: Open the closest hot water line of the motorhome.
Step 4: Pull the handle of the relief valve until the flow of water stops.
Step 5: Allow the relief valve to snap shut, close the hot faucet and turn
ON the water supply.
Step 6: Turn ON the water heater.
The air pocket will have been re-established and will not need to repeat
until the next discharge of water. If the discharge does not stop contact a qualified service center to evaluate the valve and make any required repairs.

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If the motorhome was not ordered with an optional washer-dryer, it will
have a washer-dryer preparation package installed from the factory. The
washer-dryer “prep” package includes the following items:
• Color coded water supply lines: red line for hot, blue line for cold.
• An 1½” waste water drain line with a threaded cap, a P-trap and an
automatic vent cap. This will drain the waste water into the grey water
holding tank.
• A designated 120 Volt AC receptacle for a washer-dryer is provided.

WASHER-DRYER
PREPARED

NOTE: Sidewall dryer vents are not part of the prep package If a sidewall vent is to be installed be sure it is properly
sealed to the sidewall.
If a washer-dryer is to be installed at a later date, follow all
the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Listed here are further instructions which should be adhered to for safe and
reliable operation:
• Do not connect the clothes dryer exhaust duct to any other duct, vent or
chimney.
• Do not terminate the exhaust duct beneath the motorhome.
• Use proper length fasteners when attaching exhaust vent to exterior sidewall. Stainless steel fasteners are best suited for this as they will not rust.
• If the cabinet or closet in which a washer-dryer is installed does not have
vented/louvered doors, the manufacturer’s installation instructions may
require installation of vented doors or vents to be installed in the doors.
This is for sufficient circulation of drying air.

This appliance is an automatic washer with a capacity
of up to 10 lbs. (4.5Kg) of dry clothing. It is front loading with an extra large door opening for easier access. It
has five wash cycles in addition to extra rinse and extra
spin cycles.
• The Washer-Dryer operates on 120 VAC.
• To operate the Washer-Dryer you will need to be
plugged into shore power or have the generator
running.
• The Washer-Dryer can be operated while driving
down the road. The generator will need to be
running and the water pump will need to be on.
Make sure the grey tank will have enough room
for the rinse cycle.
• The Washer-Dryer water use will be approximately
16 gallons of water per load.
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WASHER-DRYER

(Optional)

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Operating
Instructions

Before using the washer for the first time, wipe the inside and outside with a
damp cloth to remove any travel dust that has accumulated. Operating a rinse
cycle to rinse out the washer is recommended. Front load, horizontal axis washing machines require less detergent. Soap suds line should not exceed the
halfway point of the glass door.
To begin a wash load:
• Sort and pre-treat clothes.
• Add the measured amount of detergent suggested by the package
directions (maximum two tablespoons).
• Load the clothes loosely into the washer. Close the washer door.
• Turn the cycle selector knob to the desired temperature setting.
• Decide which washing cycle you wish to use. Turn the timer
knob clockwise to the desired wash setting.
• Select High or Medium spin (only for regular washing).
• Press the push button ON.
• After the cycle is complete, wait two minutes for the door lock to
release before attempting to open the door.

WARNING: Do not wash or dry articles that have previously
been cleaned, washed, soaked or spotted with gasoline, dry
cleaning solvents or other flammable or explosive substances.
Do not add these substances to the wash water as they produce vapors that could ignite or explode. Do not use dryer to
dry articles containing foam rubber or similar textured, rubber-like materials. Clean the lint screen after each use (if
applicable), located in the top left corner on the back of the
washer. Keep the area around the exhaust opening and adjacent areas free from lint, dust and dirt accumulation.

Cleaning the
Drain Screen

The removable drain screen, which protects the pump from lint and
foreign matter, needs to be cleaned periodically. The frequency in which
it is cleaned depends upon the type of clothes that are washed. Cotton
articles produce more lint than nylon articles. Under no circumstance
should the drain screen be removed while the machine is full of water. To
clean the drain screen on an empty machine, open the service door by
pressing on the left hand side. Place a cloth or shallow tray under the
drain screen housing to catch any remaining water that may drip out. It
may be helpful to first set the machine to spin, then remove the drain
screen. This procedure reduces the amount of water released. Turn the
drain screen counterclockwise and pull the drain screen out. Clean the
screen to remove any dirt and lint. To replace the screen, slide it back into
the housing and turn it clockwise to secure. Close the service door.

NOTE: Check for water leaks before using the washer
after removing and replacing the drain screen.
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Occasionally wipe the exterior cabinet of the washer/dryer with a damp
cloth or sponge. Wipe dry with a soft cloth. Do not use polish on plastic trim.
Clean the interior with one cup of chlorine bleach mixed with two cups of
granular detergent. Run the washer through a complete cycle using the hot
water. Repeat the process if necessary. Remove hard water deposits using only
cleaners labeled as washer safe. Wipe the inside of the washer/dryer door with
a soft cloth to remove any moisture. Periodically apply a thin coat of paste
wax to the inner door, especially to the area which is immediately next to the
door window. This will protect the door finish from laundry spills and discoloration.

Cleaning the
Washer/Dryer

NOTE: Should the washer/dryer need removal for service,
care should be taken as the washer/dryer weighs approximately 185 lbs. Proper accommodations should be made to
avoid risk or injury.
To winterize your Washer-Dryer follow the instructions below to avoid
freeze damage:
1. With the unit off, remove the wash filter to allow the water
remaining (in the pump and drain hose) to be evacuated.
Replace the filter.
2. Close the inlet shut-off valves located at the manabloc water
manifold system.
3. Open the low point drains to drain all the water.
4. In cold climates, air should be used to blow out the system.
5. Install the water pressure regulator on a short water hose.
Connect it to the water system. Use a air hose connector on the
female end as this reduces pressure. Make sure one or more
faucets are open. Maximum air pressure should not exceed 35
psi.

Winterizing the
Washer/Dryer

If antifreeze is being used in the system follow these instructions:
1. When putting antifreeze into the water system of your
motorhome, set the washer to a warm/warm fill setting and
allow water to flow into the unit until the antifreeze is detected.
2. Slowly advance the timer to a rinse cycle and allow the water to
flow for 10 seconds. Advance the unit to a spin cycle to remove
the majority of the water from the unit.
4. With the unit off, remove the wash filter from the unit. This
will allow the water remaining in the pump and drain hose to be
evacuated. Replace the filter.
5. Any water remaining in the unit should contain antifreeze and
be protected from freezing.

NOTE: When placing the unit back into service, allow the
unit to operate for one complete cycle before doing laundry
to ensure all antifreeze has been purged from the unit.
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NOTES

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SECTION 5
EQUIPMENT
INTRODUCTION • 129
ENTRY STEP • 129
Operation • 129
Tips • 130
Maintenance & Lubrication • 130
STEP WELL COVER • 131
Front Door Models Only • 131
Adjustments • 131
ENTRY DOOR • 131
Keyless Entry System • 131
Latch Adjustment • 132
Screen Door - Removing Screen • 133
Screen Door - Changing the Glass • 133
Screen Door - Adjusting • 133
ENTRY STEP STORAGE • 133
SLIDE-OUT ROOM • 133
Extending Main Room • 134
Awning - Main Slide-Out • 136
Manual Override - Main Slide-Out • 136
Extending Bedroom • 137
Retracting Bedroom • 138
Manual Override - Bedroom Slide-Out • 139
Preventive Maintenance • 139
SLIDE LOCK • 140
ENTERTAINMENT CENTER - HOME • 141
Front Television Lock Out • 141
TELEVISION ANTENNA • 141
Hookups - TV Cable, Computer & Telephone • 142
VIDEO SELECTOR BOX • 143
Front Television • 144
VCR & Bedroom Television • 144
CITIZEN BAND RADIO PREWIRE • 144

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Section Five covers the basic operation and care of various types of
equipment found in the motorhome, most of which are provided for
entertainment and comfort. More detailed information about specific
equipment may be found in that particular manufacturer’s manual. Optional
equipment will also be discussed in this section which may not apply to all
motorhomes.

INTRODUCTION

Detailed information with CAUTION or WARNING
instructions for the various electronics, other than what is
provided in this section, can be found in the manufacturer’s
manual.
The entry step features amber lighting under the step, automatic retraction
with the ignition key in the RUN position and a last out feature. Located to the
left, just inside the entry door, is the step switch.

ENTRY STEP

Operation

Operating the Entry Step:
1. With the entrance door open turn the step switch on.
2. Close the door. The step should retract and lock in the UP position.
The step light will remain on.
3. Open the door. The step should extend and lock in the “down” position with the under step light on. The step will retract when the door
is closed.
4. The step is equipped with a power switch. When the switch is turned
off, the step should remain in the extended position with the door
closed and the under step light off. Close the door and turn on the ignition switch. The step will retract for travel.
To hold the entry step in the retracted position proceed with the
following:
• Turn the engine ignition switch OFF.
• Wait 15 seconds and then turn the power step switch from OFF to
ON, then back OFF again. The step will stay retracted until the
step switch is turned ON, or the ignition switch is turned on.
The retracted position is useful for high curbs or on boat ferries.
5. With the power switch OFF, the step extended, the entrance door closed
and the ignition turned ON the ignition override system will go into
effect and the step will automatically retract.
6. Turn the ignition OFF and open the door. The step will extend and lock
in the “down” position. This is the “last out” feature. When the ignition
is ON the step will always activate with the door movement, regardless
of the power switch position.

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Tips

If the step fails to operate:
• Make sure the step switch is ON.
• Check the main power supply for the step. A 20 amp auto reset 12 Volt
DC circuit breaker is located on the rear run plate.
• A magnetic door jam switch is used to control step operation. Use a
separate magnet to apply a “trigger” to the door jam switch. Rotate
test magnet to align polarity field.
• A five amp ATO blade fuse is used to illuminate the STEP OUT dash
warning light. The fuse is located on the front run plate.

WARNING: If the motorhome is driven with the step in the
extended position there is the possibility of causing major
damage to both the step and the motorhome.

Maintenance &
Lubrication

Clean all mud, salt and road grime from the step before lubricating.
Lubricate all moving parts (bearings, pivot points, slides, clevis pin, and the
drive linkage ball) every 30
days with a good quality heat
and moisture resistant penetrating grease. Kwik Lube Spray
Grease is specially formulated
to lubricate Kwikee Electric
Steps and it is also recommended for lubricating all moving
parts. Refer to the picture.

NOTE: Silicone
lubricates and WD40 are not recommended as they have
a tendency to evaporate and dry the
mating surfaces
which leaves them
vulnerable to the
elements.

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The motorhome is equipped with a sliding stepwell cover that is extended and retracted by the use of a dual action air cylinder. The air cylinder is
controlled by an electrically operated air valve. The air solenoid, known as a
“MAC” valve, receives air pressure from the front air tank. The “MAC” valve
will direct the air pressure to either side of the dual action air cylinder, moving
the stepwell cover in or out. The stepwell cover will not operate without
sufficient air pressure (approximately 60 psi).

STEPWELL COVER
Front Door Models
Only

CAUTION: The stepwell cover is under air pressure. When
operating the stepwell cover be sure there are no pets, shoes
or other obstructions in the stepwell area. Do not operate
the stepwell cover while standing in the stepwell area.
The “MAC” air valve is located in the front of the
motorhome, behind the generator door mounted to the frame.
The easiest way to identify the location is have someone operate
the stepwell cover with the generator door open and listen for
the release of air.
The “MAC” air valve has two adjustment screws. The
adjustment screws regulate the air flow to either side of the air
cylinder. Adjusting the screws will affect the speed in which the
air cylinder moves in or out. Clockwise adjustment on the screw
will decrease air flow. Counterclockwise adjustment on the
screw will increase the air flow. For proper stepwell cover
adjustment it is recommended that adjustments be performed by
a qualified service person.

Adjustments

WARNING: When adjusting the stepwell cover clear the
stepwell area of obstructions, pets or persons. Do not adjust
the stepwell cover while stepwell area is occupied.
The entry door can be locked or unlocked using the key chain remote conENTRY DOOR
trol or the external touch key pad located adjacent to the entry door.
Keyless Entry System
• To lock the door, close the door, press the key chain remote button or press 555, 557 or 559 buttons on the external key pad.
These codes can not be changed.
• To unlock the door press the key chain remote button or
press your digit PIN number (Personal Identification
Number) buttons on the external key pad. Factory
external key pad default code is 1,3,5. External key pad
can be programmed to accept one Master User PIN and
five(5) Optional User PIN’s. Three(3) to eight(8) digits
can be used for PIN’s.

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Programming a
Personal Number

CAUTION: Make sure you have the door keys in your possession
before changing any codes to use in the event you get locked out
of the motorhome.
Factory Default Code
1,3,5

Factory Optional User Codes
1st. 111
2nd. 113
3rd. 115
4th. 117
5th. 119

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
1.
2.
3.
4.

To Authorize The
Remote

Entry Door
Adjustment

To Change The Master User Code to PIN
Locate and press the Programming Switch located under dash panel.
4 rapid beeps will sound.
Enter 1119 on the keypad. 3 rapid beeps will sound.
Enter your new PIN, 3-8 digits within 5 seconds.
Wait 5 seconds for 2 rapid beeps.
Test PIN. If PIN does not work, repeat steps.
To Change Optional User Code To PIN
Lock with code 559 on keypad. Enter master PIN on keypad
Enter factory Optional User Code (etc. #111), 3 beeps will sound.
Enter new Optional User PIN 3-8 digits within 5 seconds, 3 beeps will sound.
Wait 5 seconds for 2 rapid beeps.
Test Optional User PIN. If PIN does not work, repeat steps.
To Delete an Optional User Code or PIN
Lock with code 559 on keypad. Enter master PIN on keypad
Enter factory Optional User Code or PIN, 3 beeps will sound.
Wait 5 seconds for 2 Rapid Beeps
Test deleted code or PIN. If code or PIN still work, repeat steps.

If the remote does not respond, it may need authorization.
• Locate the keyless entry receiver box behind the instrument cluster.
• Unplug the receiver box. Plug receiver box back in.
• Within three seconds, press the lock button on one remote. The entry
door should lock.
• Press the lock button on the other remote.

The entry door is adjusted at the factory and tested for all operations. The door
incorporates three separate seals to eliminate wind noise during travel.
The door uses two separate locks for safety and security. One locking system
is the door handle and the other is a dead bolt. The door handle incorporates a primary and secondary latching system. This is used to ensure secure and safe latching.
There are adjustments which can be made to help maintain entry door performance.
Adjusting the Entry Door Latch:
• Determine which bolt needs adjustment.
• Slowly close the entry door observing the latch and strike bolt alignment.
Do not attempt to latch if the alignment is off. If the alignment is correct,
allow the latch to catch in the first (primary) position only.
• The latch should move to the second position with just slight pressure
applied to the entry door. Upper and lower latches should be evenly timed.
Press on the entry door to see if there is any further movement of the door.
• The entry handle should operate with little effort to open the entry door.
An excessive amount of pressure indicates the bolts are set too far back.
• With a 5/8” inch box wrench or socket, loosen the movable strike bolt.

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Make all adjustments in small increments. Tighten the bolt firmly after
making adjustments. The bolts should have slight up and down movement
for vibration control in travel.
• Test the operation of the dead bolt lock to ensure proper functions.
• Silicone should be applied weekly to the entry door rubber gaskets to
prevent squeaking while the motorhome is traveling. Use a one inch
sponge paint brush, sprayed with silicone for easy application.

CAUTION: When operating the entry door ensure the dead bolt
latch is fully in the unlock position prior to closing the entry
door. Failure to do so can result in damage to the dead bolt
and/or entry door.
Removable Screen
The top half of the screen door is removable. This allows clear viewing through
the entry door glass while traveling.
• To remove the top half of the screen door for travel rotate clips and
remove the screen.
• To store the screen for travel use the clips provided on the bottom half
of the screen door.
Changing the Glass in the Screen Door:
• The screen slider is Plexiglass, the slider can be bowed for removal
and replacement.
• Replace with new Plexiglass and reverse the procedure.

Screen Door Removing Screen

Screen Door Changing the Glass

Adjusting the Screen Door For Up and Down Location:
• Loosen the chrome bolts on the hinge side of the screen door. Four on
the top and four on the bottom.
• There are slots in the steel hinge to allow up and down movement.
• There are four screws on the top hinge and four on the
bottom hinge to adjust the screen door so it fits properly to the door. The
hinge should fit tightly to the trim of the door, when the screen door is
latched to the door and the door is open.

Screen Door Adjusting

There is a handy storage compartment located just inside the motorhome underneath the top step. Lift the hinged top step to gain access to the compartment. This
is an excellent place to store gloves, tools, etc.

ENTRY STEP
STORAGE

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SLIDE-OUT ROOM
- Extending Main
Room

To Extend the Slide-Out Room:
• Move the driver seat forward before activating the slide-out room.
• Confirm that there is at least five feet of clearance outside the motorhome
for the slide-out room to extend.
• Ensure the ignition key is in the OFF position.
• Apply the park brake.
• The storage bay doors under the slide-out must be closed.
• Locate the two locking bar mechanisms on the top of the slide-out room
inside the motorhome and move the handles to the unlock position.

• Release the bar mechanisms and remove the bars from between the wall
and the top of the slide-out room. Store the bars for reuse before the
motorhome is in motion.
• Locate the slide-out room control switch located in overhead
compartment on the curbside of the motorhome.
• Press and hold the slide-out room switch in the OUT position. The slide-out
room will slowly move to the OUT position. To continue the room
movement push and hold the switch in.
• Release the slide-out switch when the room is fully extended (a change in
motor sound indicates extension). The slide-out drive motor will not stop
automatically, the switch must be released.
• Level the motorhome with the leveling system.

NOTE: Perform the slide-out room operation with the air
suspension system full. Extensive damage could occur to the
slide room and awning when extending the slide room in
snow, sleet, ice or freezing rain conditions. In such conditions, if the slide-out room is already extended, clear the
awning and ensure free movement prior to operating the
slide room.
CAUTION: Dirt and grit trapped under the slide could
result in damage to the floor. Continuous operation of the
slide-out could cause a drain on the house batteries and damage to the slide motor from overheating.

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CAUTION: Remove the LOCK’R bar before moving the
slide-out room. Damage can result if it is left in position. The
manufacturer is not responsible for damage resulting from
operating the slide-out room with the LOCK’R left in position.
WARNING: Move the drivers seat forward before activating the slide-out room. Ensure there is five or more feet of
clear space outside the slide box prior to extending the slide
room. The outside area must be clear of any obstructions
which may hinder the movement of the slide room. Ensure
there is sufficient clearance inside the motorhome. Never
move the motorhome with the slide-out extended.
To Retract the Slide-Out Room:
• Check for sufficient clearance inside the motorhome before
retracting the slide-out room.
• Clean the floor, if applicable, to ensure there is no dirt or
grit that could result in floor damage during slide-out
retraction.
• Retract the leveling system prior to operating the slide-out.
• Inspect the exterior of the slide-out to ensure all bay doors
are closed and there are no sags in the awning.
• Prior to retracting the slide-out room, start the motorhome to
allow the air bags to fully inflate.
• Turn the ignition switch OFF. The slide room will not operate
with the engine running.
• The motorhome should be on the air bag suspension prior to
retracting the slide-out room.
• Press and hold the switch in the IN position. The slide-out
room will move slowly in. To stop the slide-out room before
the room reaches the IN position, release the switch. To
continue the room movement, push and hold the switch in.
The motor will change tone when the slide-out room is fully
extended.
• Release the switch.
• After the slide-out room is all the way retracted, locate the
two removable locking bar mechanisms. Place the bar
mechanisms between the wall and the top edge of the slideout room. The Lock’R has a built in spring to preset the
tension. Move the handle to lock the position.

NOTE: Be sure you have sufficient clearance on the inside
of the motorhome (drivers seat, etc.) before you retract the
slide-out room. If your motorhome has ceramic tile floor
ensure the floor is clean before you retract the slide-out
room. Dirt or grit that is trapped under the slide-out room
can scratch the floor surface. Never move the motorhome
without having the slide-out room retracted.
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Awning - Main Slide-out

The motorhome is equipped with a slide-out
awning that will automatically roll out with the slide
room when it is extended. When the slide room is
extended, the awning can then be rolled out completely as a window awning. The slide-out awning
has two devices to help prevent the awning from
“billowing” while traveling. The first device is a pair
of anti-billow studs, which are located above each
end of the awning roller tube. If the awning catches
wind and begins to billow, the awning metal wrap
will contact the anti-billow stud levering downward
and engaging with a plastic gear preventing further unraveling of the awning material. The second
device uses two metal wind deflectors which are
positioned just below the awning. This helps prevent
side winds from scooping under the awning and
unwinding the awning material.

Awning at Full Extension

CAUTION: The slide room and slide-out awning should be
retracted during heavy winds or rain. Rain can be driven up
under the slide-out awning and into the motorhome. The
slide-out awning should be retracted in high wind conditions
as damage can occur to the awning or motorhome.
NOTE: At least five feet of clearance is needed between the
side of the motorhome and any objects, such as trees or
fences, to allow the slide room and slide-out awning to be
fully extended.

Manual Override
- Main Slide-out

5 • 1 3 6

To move the slide-out room manually retract the motorhome leveling
jacks (see “Leveling Jacks”).
1. Open outside storage compartment doors underneath slide-out room.
2. Remove plastic covers, if applicable, from top of compartments to
gain access to drive shaft and drive mechanisms.
3. To move the slide-out room, move the lever on the motor counterclockwise to release motor brake and turn the end of the shaft next
to the gear box using a 7/8” wrench.

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4. Once the room is in apply pressure to the wrench so that the room
is sealed. Return the brake lever to its normal position to lock the
room in place. Install the transit bar.
5. Take the motorhome to an authorized dealer for service.

NOTE: The slide-out room is heavy and may require several
persons to push it into the retracted position. Once the slideout room is in the fully retracted position, return the brake
level to the lock position to hold the room in place.

Before operation of the slide-out system:
• The path for the room to move is clear.
• The battery is fully charged and hooked up to the electrical system.
• All storage compartment doors under the slide-out are closed.
• The slide locks are removed.

WARNING: Confirm there is five or more feet of clear
space outside of the motorhome before moving the slide-out
room to the OUT position. Check that all cabinet doors are
securely closed before extending or retracting the rooms.
CAUTION: Do not operate the slide-out room when the battery has been removed from the motorhome. Use with the
converter only may damage the slide-out electrical components. Continuous operation of the slide-out room can drain
the battery and damage the slide-out motor from overheating. Never move the motorhome without having
the slide-out room retracted.
To Extend the Bedroom Slide:
1. Locate the two locking bar mechanisms on top of the slide-out room
inside the motorhome. Push in on the lock button to release the bar
mechanisms and remove the bars from between the wall and the top
of the slide-out room. Store the bars for reuse before the motorhome
is moved. The slide lock may double as a towel bar or extra closet rod.

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Extending Bedroom

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2. Press and hold the slide-out room switch in the OUT position.
The slide-out room will move slowly to the OUT position. The
drive motor will not stop automatically. To stop the slide-out
room before reaching the OUT position, release the switch. To
continue room movement, push and hold the switch in.
3. Release the switch, which will lock the room into position.

CAUTION: Dirt and grit trapped under the slide could result in
damage to the floor. Continuous operation of the slide-out could
cause a drain on the house batteries and damage to the slide
motor from overheating.
CAUTION: Remove the slide lock bars before moving the slideout room. Damage can result if it is left in position. The manufacturer is not responsible for damage resulting from operating the
slide-out room with the slide lock bars left in position.
NOTE: Do not leave the slide-out in the extended position during
severe weather. Conditions such as high winds or heavy rain may
cause damage to an extended slide-out.
NOTE: Perform the slide-out room operation with the air suspension system full. Extensive damage could occur to the slide room
and awning when extending the slide room in snow, sleet, ice or
freezing rain conditions. In such conditions,if the slide-out room
is already extended, clear the awning and ensure free movement
prior to operating the slide room.

Retracting Bedroom

5 • 1 3 8

To Retract the Bedroom Slide:
1. Ensure there is sufficient clearance inside motorhome for the slide-out
room.
2. If applicable, clean the floor.
3. Remove any debris from the top of the slide-out room.
4. Press and hold switch to the IN position. To stop the slide-out room
before it fully retracts, release the switch. To continue the room movement, push and hold the switch in.
5. When the room is fully retracted, release the switch. The room will lock
into position.
6. After the slide-out room is retracted, place the two turnbuckle locking
bar mechanisms between the wall and top edge of the slide-out room
and lock it into place.

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The bedroom slide-out system can be retracted in the event of a power
loss.

Manual Override Bedroom Slideout

If the room does not move when the switch is pressed:
• The house battery cut-off switch must be on.
• Check if the battery is fully charged and connected.
• Make sure the transit bars are removed.

WARNING: Do not work on the slide-out system unless the
battery is disconnected. Make sure the floor is clean before
retracting the slide-out room. Dirt or grit that gets trapped
under the slide-out can cause damage to the floor.
After the previous items have been checked and the room still does not
move when the slide-out switch is pressed, follow these simple steps to manually
override the slide-out room:
Manual Override for Bedroom Slide-out:
1. Lift up the mattress to gain access to the slide-out
cover board and mechanism.
2. Disconnect the battery power from the slide-out
motor.
3. The slide-out motor has a shaft with two bolts. Use
an appropriate wrench (a 7/16" wrench/ratchet or
an adjustable wrench) to remove the bolts. The
bolts will need to be stored in a safe place to be
installed after repairs have been completed.
4. The slide-out then can be pushed back in by a single person. Once the slide room has been manually
retracted, install the locking bars to prevent the
room from creeping
5. Take the motorhome to an authorized dealer for
service.

The slide-out system has been designed to require very little maintenance.
To ensure the long life of the slide-out system read and follow these simple
procedures:
• The roof of the slide-out should be checked for debris such as pine
needles, dirt, leaves, sticks, etc. If the slide-out has been out for a
period of time, any debris left on the top may cause damage to the
seals when being retracted. If debris is present wash with soap and
water, then rinse.

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Preventive
Maintenance

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• When the room is out visually inspect the wipe seal. The seal should
be clean and free of dirt or other foreign material. Keep the seal
dry. Inspect seal for tears and rips.
• In the event the slide room leaks, fully retract it. Tape the exterior
opening closed with duct tape until repairs to the motorhome can
be completed.

NOTE: Do not use any petroleum based products on the slide
seal. Petroleum based products can damage the paint and
will cause premature aging of the rubber seal.

SLIDE LOCK

The slide lock can be useful for other functions in
the unit. It does not have to be stored when the slide
room is extended. Some useful functions include a
towel bar in the shower to dry wet clothing or an extra
closet rod.
If the slide bar is used for other functions
follow a
few simple guidelines:
• Ensure the slide lock is straight as possible.
• Adjust the dimension nearest to the opening
size. DO NOT GO LARGER.
• The feet can be adjusted until they are ¼"
shorter than the opening.
• The foot on the brass bolt has 4 ½" of adjustment. Foot on the silver bolt has 1 ½" of adjustment.
• Ensure slide lock is tightly in place before
use. Use caution when tightening if used on
areas not reinforced.
Tip:
The silver bolt should face the outside wall, and then a clockwise rotation
will increase tension.

CAUTION: Do not work on the slide-out system unless the
battery is disconnected.
NOTE: Do not leave the slide-out in the extended position
during severe weather. Conditions such as high winds or
heavy rain may cause damage to an extended slide-out.

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NOTE: It is not recommended to extend the slide room in
snow, sleet, ice or freezing rain. There may be extensive damage resulting from the awning freezing. In the event the
slide-out room is extended in snow, sleet, ice or freezing rain
conditions, it is recommended you clear the awning and
ensure free movement prior to retracting the slide room.
The motorhome is equipped with a remote control color television located
above the pilot seat. The outlet for front TV is controlled by the ignition
switch so that the front TV can only be viewed while the vehicle is at rest.
The TV operates from 120 Volt AC power only which can be provided by
shore power, the generator or the inverter. Viewing time of the front TV from
the inverter depends on the state of charge of the house batteries and any additional 12 Volt DC lighting being used.

ENTERTAINMENT
CENTER - HOME

The television antenna is a manual crank up style antenna with built in
electronics which use 12 Volts DC to boost signal strength. Signals that are
weak or fuzzy can be amplified by turning on the boost switch in the passenger front overhead cabinet. The antenna and booster work together to provide
the best possible picture for most situations. Certain conditions occur when no
amplification is needed and in fact may make the picture worse. The television
station will send a signal that resembles the waves or rings of water from a
rock thrown into a still pond. The radiating television signal can hit an object
such as a mountain and come back. The result one sees in the television picture is a double image. The antenna will receive a signal from the initial pass,
then receive an additional signal from the rebound resulting in a split or double
image. In this case the picture may be improved by no amplification or even
lowering the antenna.

TELEVISION
ANTENNA

Front Television
Lock Out

NOTE: Do not move the motorhome with antenna in the
raised position, it can be damaged by tree limbs or wires.
WARNING: Before raising antenna make an outside visual
inspection for any obstructions or overhead electrical wires.
Damage to the antenna, severe shock, personal injury or
death can occur.
To Raise The Antenna:
Rotate crank handle clockwise to raise (approximately 14-1/2 turns). Pull
down on outside directional wheel and rotate antenna until best picture is
obtained. Directional wheel is spring loaded.

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WARNING: Do not raise a TV antenna near overhead electrical wires as contact may cause serious injury or death.
WARNING: The motorhome must not be moved with the
antenna in a raised or partially raised position. Worm gear
or worm breakage may result.
To Lower The Antenna:
Pull down on the directional wheel and align arrows together. Rotate crank
handle counter clockwise lowering antenna fully into the cradle. Make an outside visual inspection to ensure the antenna is properly stowed.
Boost Operation:
To boost the antenna signal to the TV or VCR use the boost switch. Turn
this switch to the ON position. Turn the boost switch off when not in use.

Hookups TV Cable, Computer
& Telephone

5 • 1 4 2

The motorhome is equipped
with cable TV and telephone hookups, located in the electrical service
center. For convenience, there are
auxiliary outlets located at the copilot seat and on the optional computer desk. This connection is set
up for a phone or laptop computer
to be used.

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The motorhome is equipped with a video selector box located just above
the VCR. The selector box receives video and audio signals from three different sources: the roof mounted antenna, shore cable (Auxiliary)or the VCR.
The video selector box directs the signals to either the front or rear TV, and
directs the signal from shore cable or the roof mounted antenna to the VCR.
The selector box switches are divided into three groups: TV1 (front TV), TV2
(rear TV) and the VCR. Both the TV1 and TV2 button groups perform the
same functions. Example: To watch the front TV (TV1) from the antenna
depress the ANT button in the TV1 group. This will direct the signal from the
antenna to the front TV.

VIDEO SELECTOR
BOX

To Watch the FRONT TV:
• Using the antenna depress the ANT button in the TV1 group.
• Using the shore cable, depress the AUXILIARY button in the TV1
group.
• Using the VCR turn the TV to channel 3 and depress the VCR button
in the TV1 group.
To Watch the REAR TV:
• Using the antenna depress the ANT button in the TV2 group.
• Using the shore cable depress the AUXILIARY button in the TV2
group.
• Using the VCR turn the TV to channel 3 and depress the VCR button
in the TV2 group.

NOTE: When watching TV by using the VCR, such as playing a tape, make sure the TV is turned to channel 3.
Using the VCR (Optional):
With the antenna, depress the ANT button in the VCR group. With the
shore cable, depress the AUXILIARY button in the VCR group.
1. If the picture is weak and the antenna boost is working, try moving
the motorhome a few feet forward or backwards.
2. If it is weak or has no picture check the video selector box to make
sure the proper mode button has been selected.
3. If the signal is still weak it may be a shorted or open coax. The coax
cable is made up of two conductors: A center conductor which is usually
copper, and the ground which is woven or braided aluminum. There is
insulating material that separates the two conductors known as the
die-electric. The ground and center conductor are to remain separate
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from one another. When installing a metal end onto the coax cable, use
care so that none of the woven ground strands come in contact with the
center conductor. A continuity tester is used to test for a suspected bad
coax wire run. Unscrew both ends of the suspected bad coax run and
use the continuity tester to check between the center conductor and outside threaded ring. If continuity is present the coax is shorted. To test for
an open connection of a particular coax run, touch ends of the coaxes
ground or center conductor using the tester leads. Continuity should be
present. For proper operation there should be continuity from one end to
the other of both the ground and center conductor. No continuity should
be between the ground and center conductor. Though damage does not
usually occur from a shorted or open coax cable, picture quality is compromised.

Front Television

The motorhome is equipped with a remote control and color television. The
TV operates from 120 volts AC power only, which can be provided by shore power
or converter. Viewing time of the front TV from the converter depends on the state
of charge of the batteries and any additional 12Volt DC lighting being used.

VCR & Bedroom
Television

The VCR and bedroom television operate from 120 Volts AC only, which can
be provided by shore power or converter. Use the instructions given in the video
selector box section to use these components.

CITIZEN BAND
RADIO PREWIRE

Located under the dash next to the accessory connector is a two pin connector
labeled Citizens Band Radio. Red wire supplies 12Volt DC and is fused to 2 amps
through front distribution panel. White wire is connected to chassis frame.

CELL PHONE
PREWIRE

The motorhome is equipped with a cell phone mount. The antenna lead is located
behind the dash instrument cluster. To access the lead remove the inspection panel
located on top of the dash pad. The antenna lead run is installed from the roof down
the driver’s side A-pillar. This is the section between the driver’s side window and
the windshield. The coiled antenna lead should be located toward the front firewall,
directly behind the instrument cluster.

DVD PLAYER
(OPTIONAL)

The Digital Video Disc Player connection is located only at the front television
set. The front television set must be ON and have input One selected at the television. The DVD Player will only be required to have power for the unit and have a
DVD Disc installed. The DVD Player operates from 120 Volt AC powered from the
House electrical system.

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The motorhome may have been prewired for a roof mount DSS system.
The prewire will consist of a ¾” flexible conduit, which will run from the
front overhead to a spot marked on the roof. A telephone hook-up will also be
provided for Pay Per View accessibility.

The satellite system programming is offered by Direct Satellite Services.
The dish raise or stow function is controlled by the Antenna Control Unit.
Turning the Antenna Control Unit (ACU) ON will automatically turn on the
satellite receiver.

SATELLITE
SYSTEM
PREWIRE - DSS

SATELLITE
SYSTEM - DSS
(OPTIONAL)

DSS Satellite System requires both AC & DC power sources to operate:
• 12 Volt DC, house battery cut off switch must be ON.
• 120 Volt AC, hooked to shore power, start the generator or turn on the
inverter.
To View:
• Set the satellite dish elevation angle.
• Turn the ACU ON, then select VIEW. The satellite dish will raise. Allow
30 seconds for the dish to acquire satellite. If the dish elevation angel is
unknown, two methods of determining the dish elevation angle may be
used.
To Set Angle:
Satellite receiver must be ON. Using the DSS remote, press the MENU
button. Use cursor to select ANTENNA. Push down on cursor ball to enter.
Select ANTENNA LOCATION; depress cursor ball to enter. Select either ZIP
CODE or LONGITUDE and LATITUDE settings to determine correct dish
elevation setting for the viewing region. Enter elevation angle on ACU.
Press EXIT to return to standard viewing.
• Using the VCR remote, turn the VCR ON. Press the VCR button. Press
the INPUT button, L or LINE will be displayed on the VCR.
• Using the video selector box, press the VCR button in the TV1 group. If
viewing the bedroom TV, press the VCR button in the TV2 group.
• Turn desired TV ON and select Channel 3.

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RADIO - DASH

The dash radio will control the multi-functions for the dash audio. The
detachable front panel provides anti-theft protection. The tuner holds up to
eighteen preset FM stations and twelve AM stations. Other features are an
attenuate mode, loudness control, a 12 hour digital clock and autoseek tuning.
The radio power can be turned off from the power button on the unit or from a
remote source.

RADIO BEDROOM
REMOTE COMMANDER
Operation

1.
2.
3.
4.

LEVEL (Volume) UP button.
LEVEL (Volume) DOWN button.
SEEK/AMS UP, &
SEEK/AMS DOWN buttons.
During tape or CD/MD playback:
• AMS function: Locates beginning of
tracks. Press up or down button the number
of times you wish to skip tracks. To skip
several tracks at once press up or down button momentarily and release. Within one
second press the same button again and hold
until desired track is released.
• Manual search: Locates desired part of a
track. Press either up or down button and
hold until desired part of track is reached.

During radio operation:
• Automatic tuning: Automatically tunes to a station. When a station is
tuned in, the search stops automatically. Press up or down button momentarily several times until desired station is tuned in.
• Manually search a station: Press and hold up or down button until desired
station is tuned in. If you press the same button again within one second,
you can continue manual search for another station.
5. OFF button:
Press to turn OFF the unit.
6. DISPLAY button:
Changes the custom file mode, and display the custom file list.
7. MODE button:
Adjusts Volume, Sub output level, Bass, Treble, Balance, Fader, and DSP
control
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8. SOUND button:
Changes display mode.
9. MUTE button:
Press to mute sound momentarily.
10. SOURCE/ON button:
Press to select program sources.
11. DISC/PRESET UP, &
12. DISC/PRESET DOWN:
Press either UP or DOWN button to:
• Fast wind the tape. To resume normal playback, press MODE button.
• Change the disc when a CD/MD changer(s) are connected.
• Retrieves the station memorized on the preset number button on the master unit.
When the POWER SELECT switch on your master unit is set to the OFF
position, your master unit cannot be operated from the Remote Commander
unless one of the operation buttons is pressed or a disc/cassette is inserted to
activate the master unit. Depending on the type of master unit, you can turn
on the master unit with the SOURCE/ON button of the Remote Commander.
The fan is a three speed fan with a 0 or OFF position. The fan has a built
in thermostat with the operating range within 22° F to 123° F. This range of
operation is based on the inside ambient air temperature. This is the dark blue
to dark red dial on the fan unit. The fan lid is electrically controlled during
normal operations. It can be manually operated by the crank handle and thumb
switch located on the fan. The thumb switch should be snapped back in the
AUTO position immediately after using the MANUAL position. Once the lid
opens approximately two inches, the fan motor will operate.

FANS

Bathroom Fan

To Operate The Fan:
• Select fan switch to ON.
• Select the desired fan speed on the fan:
0 = OFF.
1 = LOW.
2 = MEDIUM.
3 = HIGH.

NOTE: If the speed switch is in the “O”
position the fan cover will not operate automatically.

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Exhaust Fan

The exhaust fan is controlled by a wall thermostat and is powered by 12 Volt
DC. To operate the fan remove the ceiling grill cover, open the grill dampers
and select one of three fan speeds using the round knob on the grill. Set the
thermostat to the ON setting for continuous air flow, or to AUTO and the
desired air temperature for the ON/OFF air flow. To turn the fan off set the thermostat to the OFF setting, close the grill dampers and reinstall the ceiling grill
cover.

NOTE: Close the grill dampers before installing the grill
cover. Failure to close the damper will result in the cover
blowing off while the motorhome is moving.
Tips:
• To keep condensation from accumulating open the vent
fan lids slightly to help the air circulate. Condensation
occurs naturally from fluctuations in interior and exterior
temperatures, humidity and dew point changes, steam
from cooking or boiling large amounts of water on the
cooktop. Shower usage is another culprit of condensation.
• If the fan fails to operate, check for a blown fuse either
in the domestic fuse panel or the 6 amp fuse on the bathroom fan.
• Remove the eight screws holding the screen to clean.
Use a non abrasive soap and water to clean. Re-install
the screen after cleaning.
• Close all the vents when using your Fantastic Fan Vent.
Slightly opened window(s) on the shaded side of the
motorhome will afford the most comfortable air flow,
especially on hot sunny days. Remember you direct airflow by slightly opening windows. Always close all roof
vents and position yourself between the open window
and your Fantastic Vent for maximum comfort.

NOTE: Do not leave the fan switch in the active mode while
the motorhome is stored or unattended for extended periods
of time. High winds other unusual conditions or obstructions
may prevent closing. The resulting leakage could cause
serious damage.
The exhaust fan is controlled by a wall thermostat and is powered by 12 Volt
DC. To operate the fan remove the ceiling grill cover, open the grill dampers
and select one of three fan speeds using the round knob on the grill. Set the
thermostat to ON for continuous air flow, or to AUTO and set the desired air
temperature for thermostaticaly controlled air flow. To turn the fan off set the
thermostat to OFF. Close the grill dampers and install the ceiling grill cover.
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NOTE: Close the grill dampers before installing the grill
cover. Failure to close the damper will result in the cover
blowing off while the motorhome is moving.

The motorhome is equipped with roof air vents which are
manually operated. The vent is opened or closed by simply turning the crank handle in the desired direction. The fan which is
for ventilation only as it will not help cool the motorhome, can
be operated by pushing the small power button. The vent must
be opened before using the power fan. To close the power air
vent, push in the power button to stop the fan and close the vent.

The sliding pocket door uses two rollers at the top of each
door. During the life of the motorhome the sliding door may
require adjusting. The sliding pocket door should be
adjusted to close tight against the wall. Locate the small
wrench and turn the adjusting screw upward or downward.
If the pocket door needs to be removed, locate the
portion that is secured to the top of the pocket door and
rotate the small lever outward to release the latches.

FAN - VENT

DOOR - SLIDE

The pocket door rollers should be lubed
with just a drip of oil once a year to help
increase the life of the rollers and
improve sliding of the door.

To Extend The Awning
• Hook the pull strap loop with awning
pull rod.
• Pull strap until awning is at full extension. With free hand, lever out inner arms.
• Mate the slot of inner arm with hook on
side of motorhome. Repeat procedure for
other arm.

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• Release strap slowly ensuring inner arms
are secure. Slide the strap to rear of
awning roll tube and tie to rear arm.
• Loosen locking knobs for both arms and
extend arms so the canvas will clear door
in the open position.
To Retract Awning
• Loosen locking knobs for both arms.
Lower arms to stop bolts. Tighten knobs.
• Untie the pull strap with a firm grip until
tension is off the inner arms. Fold inner
arms and attach them to the velcro.
•Carefully allow material to wind onto
awning roll tube while holding strap is in
neutral position. This will allow material
to roll up evenly.
• Awning end caps should be against the
rubber bumpers. If one end cap is off, pull
down on awning pull strap while holding
strap slightly to opposite side, allowing
awning to roll back up into position.

CAUTION: When the awning is at full extension do not allow
the awning to snap back into the retracted position. Personal
injury or damage to the awning or motorhome may occur.

Awning Care &
Maintenance

Care and Maintenance
Mildew will not form on the awning material itself, but it may form on
the dust accumulated on the canopy. A quality vinyl cleaner, such as Carefree
Awning Magic, will help keep your awning looking new. Be sure to follow the
instructions on the container.

NOTE: Allow the awning material to thoroughly dry before
rolling the awning up. Metal surfaces should be cleaned with
soapy water and thoroughly rinsed.
To Unlock the Awning:
1. Loosed the black locking knobs.
2. Lift the arm storage locks located on each upper arm to the unlock
position. Slide the brake control, located on the front arm only, to the
full up (unlock) position.

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Awning - Patio

To Extend The Patio Awning
1. Hook the loop of the center strap with the pull wand and draw the
awning away from the motorhome to the desired extension. Slide the
center pull strap to one end of the awning and store it.
2. Slide the inner rafters to the top of each arm and push outward to the
tension canopy. Tighten the black locking knobs.
3. Raise the arm extension lock handles and slide the awning upward.
Lower the lock handles and move the awning arm upward or downward to lock the detent into the hole. First, raise the lock handles on
the main side. Next, raise the lock handles to the entry door. Go do
the other awning arm and do the same. Make sure the awning is
straight.
To Retract The Patio Awning
Retract the arms and lower the awning until the arms rest on the lower
stop bolts and lock into position. Loosen the two black locking knobs.
Release the locking tab on the end of the awning leg. Slide the pull
strap to the center of the awning while holding on to the strap. Allow
the awning to roll up to the stored position.
• Snap the arm storage locks into the down position.
• Verify that the brake control is in the locked or closed
position.

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Rain Release Setting:
After the awning has been extended, choose the rain
release position to prevent water build up on the
awning. To position the awning in the rain release setting lower one arm of the awning and leave the other
arm in the normal position. This will create enough of a
slope for adequate water run off.

Using The Carport Feature:
To safely use the carport feature:
1. Extend the braces and lock them into the end of
the side arms. Tighten the black knobs.
2. Extend the awning as described under
“To Extend Awning.”
3. Unlatch the bottom of the rear arm by pushing in on the
lock handle on the arm bracket. Swing the arm away
from the motorhome to an upright position.
4. Raise the rear arm extension lock handle all the way up
to the unlocked position. Extend the arm to position the
awning at the desired height and lower the lock handle
to lock the arms in place.
5. Drive the stakes through the bottom holes in the arm.
6. Repeat instructions 1 through 5 for the front arm
extension lock handle.

NOTE: To move the awning out of the carport position
reverse the above steps.
Securing The Awning For Travel:
Before traveling, check the following:
1. The awning is fully retracted against the sides of the motorhome.
2. The black locking knobs are tightened.
3. The storage locks are down and in the locked position.
4. The brake control is in the full down (locked) position and no red
warning is showing.
5. The bottom of the front and rear arms are latched properly into
the bottom brackets.
6. The catch rod is stored away.
Care and Maintenance:
• Washing: On a monthly basis, loosen hardened dirt and remove dust
from the awning with a dry, medium bristle brush. Thoroughly rinse both
the top and bottom with a hose. Wash both sides of the awning with a
quality vinyl cleaner solution using an awning brush. This process can be
made easier with our support, plus other awning maintenance products.
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Saturate the fabric with the solution and leave it on for 15-20 minutes.
If necessary, reapply the solution to keep the fabric saturated. Rinse the
awning thoroughly. Repeat, if necessary, until most of the stains
disappear.
• Water Leaks: If leaking occurs after washing it generally results from
insufficient rinsing. If water drips through the needle holes in the
stitching use a commercial seam sealer which is available in canvas and
trailer supply stores. Paraffin wax may also be applied to the top of the
seams. As the awning “weathers” these holes will normally seal
themselves.
It is normal for slight leakage to occur through the fabric where water is
allowed to accumulate or pocket on the fabric. See “Storm Precautions” for
information on the awning settings for proper water drainage. Sometimes soap
or chemical residue, such as from active agents in insect fog or sprays, can
“wet” the fabric so that it appears unable to repel water. Rinse the fabric
thoroughly and test to see if it is water repellent after it dries. If leakage
continues after repeating the washing and thoroughly rinsing, please contact
Carefree Awning concerning further maintenance.
• Storm Precautions: The warranty does not cover damage caused by acts
of God; therefore, steps should be taken to prevent damage from
occurring due to wind, rain or storms. If you are leaving or retiring for
the night, close the awning. This takes only a few seconds and it gives the
best protection for the awning. If unable to close the awning, lower both
ends of it as far as you can. This will create a sufficient slope for water
run-off. One end may be lowered to sufficiently divert the water, if the
awning is being monitored.

The Carefree One Touch automatic awning requires only “finger
tip” operation. A key lock on the One Touch switch pad is provided to
prevent accidental deployment of the awning while the motorhome is
in motion. The key is removable in the lock or unlock position. Gas
filled struts keep the awning fabric tight at any extended position. The
12 volt DC motor for the One Touch awning uses approximately 15
amps while in operation.

Awning - Automatic
Carefree -(Optional)

To Extend the Awning:
• Verify all persons and objects are clear from the extend path
of the awning and related hardware.

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• Turn the One touch key to the ON position.
• Depress and hold the momentary switch to EXTEND. Motor will
automatically stop at full extension.
• Allow 14 seconds for awning to reach full extension.
• Extension distance or fabric tension is adjusted by toggling between
RETRACT and EXTEND.
• Turn the One Touch key to the OFF position.

CAUTION: The patio awning requires nine feet of lateral
clearance from the side of the motorhome. This distance will
allow the awning to reach full extension. The One Touch
patio awning was not designed with a carport feature or a
rain release setting. The awning should be retracted if the
motorhome is left unattended or high wind conditions exist.
Otherwise, wind damage to the awning may occur.
NOTE: It is not required to have the awning at full extension.
Awning may be stopped at any time of extension or retraction
by releasing the momentary switch.
NOTE: Some models may require that the ignition key be
turned to accessory or the ignition run position.
To Retract the Awning:
• Verify all persons and objects are clear from the retract path of the
awning and related hardware.
• Turn the One Touch key to the ON position.
• Depress and hold the momentary switch to RETRACT. The motor will
automatically stop at full retraction.
• It takes approximately 14 seconds for the awning to travel from the
fully extended position to the fully retracted position.
• Turn the One Touch key to the OFF position to avoid accidental deployment of the awning while the vehicle is in motion.
Tips:
If the awning fails to retract or extend:
• Verify the One Touch key is in the ON position.
• The house battery cut off switch is in the ON position.
• The house battery voltage is at 12 Volts or above.
• Verify proper electrical connection from the awning motor to the side
of the motorhome.
Emergency Retract Procedure:
If the One Touch awning fails to retract and proper DC voltage have
been verified, the One Touch awning has two emergency methods of alternately
retracting the awning.
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1. Two exposed electrical studs are mounted externally at
the forward end of the awning at the motor assembly. An alternate 12 Volt DC positive and negative supply may be supplied
to these connections. If awning fails to move, reverse the
polarity of the alternate supply leads.
2. On the motor assembly, mounted externally at the forward end of the awning, is an opening. Insert a 9/64” Allen
hex wrench. Using an electric drill, wind the awning to the
retract position.

CAUTION: When using alternate method to
operate the awning, use extreme care to keep
appendages, hair or loose clothing away from
exposed rotating hardware.
Water weighs 8.33 pound per gallon. The awning was not
made to withstand the 500 to 700 pounds that could accumulate. It is best not to subject the awning and the motorhome to
the needless strain.

To extend the sunvisor press and hold the lower portion of the control
switch until the desired location is obtained. Once the desired point is
obtained the sunvisor will remain in that position until changed. Retracting the
sunvisor is the same as extending, except the upper portion of the switch is
used. Cleaning the sunvisor should be done using a soft clean brush to remove
dust.

SUNVISOR

The sofa will convert easily into a bed. The sofa comes equipped with safety belts and these should be used if occupied during travel.

SOFA TO SLEEPER

• Raise the sofa seat base until seat base and backrest form a V-Shape
by lifting up from the center of sofa just below the seat cushions.
• Push down on seat base until the seat base and backrest are flat.
• Fold seat belts out of the way.
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Sleeper to Sofa

• Lift the seat base up until seat and back rest are in a V shape.
• Push down on seat base.

DINETTE BED
CONVERSTION

• The booth dinette easily converts into a bed.
• Lift seat cushions to an angled vertical position.
• With a firm grip, lift front edge of the table approximately six inches and
push table leg lock to side.
• Swing the table leg up and lock into a horizontal position.
• Continue lifting table until table stays are clear of retainers. Pull
outward and lower table down.
• Use both seat cushions and one back cushion for a mattress. Leave one
back cushion in a vertical position.

(Optional)

WARNING: Do not occupy the booth dinette or dining
chairs while vehicle is in motion. They are not equipped with
occupant restraint systems. Chairs must be stored in an
enclosed area or secured with tie down straps prior to
setting the motorhome into motion to avoid the risk of
personal injury to motorhome occupants resulting from a
crash or sudden stop.

STORAGE UNDER BED &
ENGINE ACCESS

To use the storage compartment located under the bed, locate and unlock
the bed deck latches. Lift up the bed by the front edge of the mattress platform. Gas struts hold the mattress and platform open. To access the engine
compartment, press down on the button in each latch, open the engine hatch
and secure the latch with the hook provided.

NOTE: Do not over stress gas struts by rapidly opening or
closing the bed access cover. This action can damage the
struts or mounts. In extreme cold gas struts may not hold
the mattress platform in the open position.

SUPER SLIDE
(OPTIONAL)

The Kwikee Super Slide is an option that is available for use in the storage
compartment bays of your motorhome. This will allow you to slide your pay
load outward to gain easier access.
• The motorhome must be level before opening.
• There are two latch releases: one that you need to lift and hold up, the
other one you will pull outward while pulling on the super slide.
• The maximum weight capacity is 1,000 lbs. Never exceed this amount.

WARNING: The motorhome must be level when sliding the
drawer out of the bay compartment. The drawer can slide
out abruptly and cause bodily harm when the motorhome is
not level.

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SECTION 6
WATER SYSTEMS
WATER SYSTEMS • 159
General Information • 159
MONITOR PANEL • 159
Measurement & Calibration • 159
WATER TANK - FRESH WATER FILL • 160
MANABLOC PLUMBING MANIFOLD • 160
WATER - CITY HOOK-UP • 161
WATER PUMP • 162
Troubleshooting • 163
WATER FILTER • 164
WATER SYSTEM • 165
Troubleshooting • 165
TANK CAPACITIES (APPROXIMATE) • 166
WASTE WATER SYSTEMS • 167
Waste Drain & Sewage Tanks • 167
What Not to Put in Waste Holding Tanks • 167
Proper Waste Disposal • 167
TOILET • 168
Operating Instructions • 168
Troubleshooting • 168
Cleaning • 168
Maintenance • 168
Drain Traps & Auto Vents • 169
Draining the Waste Holding Tanks • 169
What to Put into the Holding Tanks - Black Water Tank • 171
What to Put into the Holding Tanks - Grey Water Tank • 171
COLD WEATHER USE • 171
Bay Heater Operation • 172
COLD WEATHER PACKAGE (OPTIONAL) • 172
WINTERIZING • 173
Fresh Water System Using Air Pressure • 173
Fresh Water System Using Nontoxic Antifreeze • 174

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This section contains information on the operation and care of the various
water system equipment found in the motorhome. The motorhome is equipped
with two separate water systems. Optional water equipment will also be discussed, so not all information may be applicable to your motorhome. More
detailed information with CAUTION or WARNING instructions for the various equipment, other than what is found in this section, can be found in the
manufacturer’s manual in the owner information box.
It is hard to imagine how much water is used everyday when you are at
home. Newcomers to self-contained motorhomes soon discover that water does
not last very long unless some basic water conservation techniques are applied.
For instance, you can use less water while showering if you wet down, turn off
the water to soap up, then turn the water back on to rinse off. This way, a sufficient shower can be taken using five gallons or less of water.

WATER SYSTEMS
General Information

Fresh Water System:
The fresh water system consists of: fresh water tank, water pump, pressure
accumulator tank, Manabloc Plumbing Manifold, gravity fill connection, water
filters and a city/fresh water connection.
Waste Water System:
The waste water system consists of: a waste holding tank (grey water), a
sewage holding tank (black water), flush system, toilet and drains.

The motorhome is equipped with a monitor panel. Features include: a combination gauge that reads all water tanks (fresh, grey and black) levels, LP Gas
tank levels and house battery level.

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MONITOR PANEL

Measurement &
Calibration

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Calibration:
The monitor panel is calibrated at the factory for accuracy and should not
require adjustment. If the system is displaying incorrectly calibration may be
necessary. To calibrate:
• Completely fill the tank to be calibrated.
• Locate the three adjustment screws (one for each
tank) behind the monitor panel.
• Using the adjustment tool simultaneously push the
button for the tank and rotate the adjustment screw
until a full tank reading is obtained.
• Repeat the procedure as necessary for the remaining tanks.

• Connect the hose to city/fresh water hook-up located in the service center
on the roadside of the motorhome.
• The city water valve must be in the OPEN position.
• Turn on the water supply.
• The water pump should be in the OFF position.
• The fresh water tank has an overflow located on the curbside of the
motorhome. When the water starts to come out the overflow pipe shut
the water supply off as soon as possible.

WATER TANK FRESH WATER
FILL

NOTE: When connecting the motorhome to fresh water be
sure to use a hose manufactured and labeled for potable
water to ensure that the hose will not flavor the water.

MANABLOC PLUMBING
MANIFOLD

WASHER/DRYER
HOT

WASHER/DRYER
COLD

SERVICE CENTER
HOT

SERVICE CENTER
COLD

GALLEY
HOT

VANITY
HOT

PURIFIER
COLD
(GALLEY)
(ICE MAKER)

The Manibloc water manifold system separates the main hot
and cold lines. The main hot and cold inputs are divided into
the individual branch lines. Water flows unrestricted with no
hidden fittings located behind walls.
Each faucet or appliance water line may be turned off individually. The hot water valves are located on the left and the
cold water valves are on the right. Use the key provided to turn
on or off any water line. When key is horizontal the water line
is open. Turning the key to the vertical position shuts that water
line off. Each water line is labeled for easy reference. Snap the
Manibloc key into the storage position after use.

VANITY
COLD

SHOWER
HOT

HOT
COLD

SPARE
HOT

TOILET
COLD

VANGUARD

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• Connect the hose to city/fresh water hook-up located in service center
on the roadside of motorhome.
• The city water valve must remain in closed position.
• Turn on the water supply.
• The water pump can either be in OFF position or in ON position. It will
not affect the water pump to leave it on.
• City/fresh water connection has a built in pressure regulator and one
way check valve that protects the motorhome to 45 lbs.

WATER CITY HOOK-UP

CAUTION: Some water sources develop high water pressure, particularly in mountainous regions. High water
pressure is anything over 55 psi (pounds per square inch).
Excessive water pressure may cause leaks in water lines
and/or damage the water heater. The motorhome comes
with a pressure regulator which should always be connected to the city water faucet to regulate hose and coach
pressure.

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WATER PUMP

The water pump pressurizes the fresh water system when
the motorhome is not connected to city water. The water pump
is totally automatic and self-priming, operating on demand as
water is used. The pressure equalizer tank relieves the water
pump from cycling when a small amount of water is used. The
water pump is located in a storage compartment of the
motorhome.

WARNING: Before leaving your coach for
extended periods of time (i.e. overnight or
longer) be sure that the city water and all
water pumps have been turned off. Damage
from neglect will be the responsibility of the
owner, not Monaco Coach Corporation.
Latching Controller
The latching controller circuitry allows multiple switch locations to operate the water pump. Pressing one of the water pump
switches provides a momentary ground signal to the latching
controller, turning the water pump on or off from any location.
An indicator lamp at each switch location illuminates when the
water pump is on.
The water pump may be operated from the following locations:
• The monitor panel
• The galley
• The bathroom
• The service center
To turn the water pump on or off:
• Momentarily press the water pump switch. The indicator lamp
will illuminate when the water pump is turned on.
CAUTION: Do not continue water pump operation when the fresh
water holding tank is empty. Damage to the water pump or electrical supply system may result.
To start pump after unhooking city water supply or first time use
proceed as follows:
• Fill the fresh water tank.
• Open all valves and faucets except the drain valves. This includes
hot and cold water valves, all faucets and shower.
• Turn the water pump on and wait for the water lines and the hot
water tank to fill.
• Close each faucet when it delivers a steady stream of water (cold
water faucets first).

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Vibration induced by road conditions can cause the plumbing or pump
hardware to loosen. Check for system components that are loose. Many
symptoms can be resolved by tightening the hardware. Check the following
items:

Troubleshooting

The water pump will not start/blows the fuse:
• Check the electrical connections, fuse or breaker, main switch
and ground connection.
• Check the electrical connections at the latching controller.
• Is voltage present at the pressure switch? Bypass the pressure
switch.
• Is the latching controller grounding the water pump?
• Check the charging system for correct voltage and good
ground.
• Check for an open or grounded circuit or motor.
• Check for seized or locked diaphragm assembly (water frozen).
The water pump will not prime/sputters: (No discharge/motor runs):
• Is the strainer clogged with debris?
• Is there water in the tank, or has air collected in the hot water
heater?
• Is the inlet tubing/plumbing sucking in air at plumbing connections (vacuum leak)?
• Check for proper voltage with the pump operating.
• Look for debris in the pump inlet/outlet valves or dry/swollen
valves.
• Check the pump housing for cracks or loose drive assembly
screws.
The water pump will not shut-off/runs when the faucet is closed:
• Check to see if the fresh water tank fill valve is completely
closed.
• Check output side (pressure) plumbing for leaks and inspect
for a leaky toilet or valves.
• Look for loose drive assembly or pump head screws.
• Are the valves or the internal check valve held open by debris
or is the rubber swollen?

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The water pump is noisy or rough in operation:
• Check for plumbing which may have vibrated loose.
• Does the mounting surface multiply noise (flexible)?
• Check for mounting feet that are loose or compressed too tight.
• Look for loose pump head to motor screws.
The water pump is rapid cycling:
• Look for restrictive plumbing/flow restrictors in the faucets or shower
heads.

WATER FILTER

You need to replace filter with diverter cap before you disinfect water system with a
chlorine solution. To change filter or replace filter with diverter cap use the following
procedure.
To Remove:
• Turn off water supply and water pump then open faucet to bleed off pressure.
• Lift locking lever up to a vertical position.
• Turn locking ring all the way left.
• Turn cartridge or diverter cap all the way left and pull down to remove.
To Install:
• Check that locking ring is all the way left and down. Align bump on
cartridge or diverter cap with opening in a locking ring. Push new cartridge or diverter cap up into base and turn right until it stops.
• Turn locking ring right until it stops and lower locking lever so that it
locks ring.
• Turn on water pump or city water.

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Water system problems and leaks usually fall into two categories: system
problems and problems caused by improper use or lack of attention. These
problems usually stem from improper winterizing, poor maintenance, road
vibration and campsite water pressure variations. Check all plumbing connections for leaks at least once a year. If the water pump runs when a faucet is not
open, check for a water leak. If a water line or fitting is leaking try to tighten
the fitting. If the leak has not stopped use the water manifold key to shut-off
the water supply valve. Have the leak repaired before returning the supply line
to service.

WATER SYSTEM
Troubleshooting

NOTE: A small water leak can cause severe water damage.
Shut-off the water supply and have the leak repaired.
Disinfecting water system with chlorine bleach (superchlorination) protects
you and your family from bacteriological or viral contamination from any
common water source.
You should disinfect the water system:
• If your motorhome is new.
• If your motorhome has not been used in a long time.
• Every three months.

NOTE: An independently operated water pump with garden
hose connections and a container to hold prepared solution
may be desired to perform this task. The gravity fill may
also be used to perform the task. Remove cap off the gravity
fill. Add the solution to the fresh water tank. When finished,
secure the gravity fill cap.
CAUTION: Do not use vinegar or chlorine bleach to disinfect water system on units using Hydro - Hot Heating
Systems. Vinegar will deteriorate copper tubing.
Use following procedure to disinfect water system:
• Remove the filter elements from the filters and reassemble the
filters without the elements (see "Filter").
• Prepare a chlorine bleach solution using 1 gallon water and 1/4
cup of chlorine bleach. Use 1 gallon of solution for every 15
gallons of tank capacity. Example: Add 2-2/3 gallons solution to
a 40 gallon tank. Add 4-2/3 gallons solution to a 70 gallon tank.
Add 6-2/3 gallons to 100 gallon tank. This mixture puts a 50
ppm (parts per million) disinfecting solution in the water system. This concentration will act as a quick-kill dosage for harmful bacteria, viruses and slime-forming organisms.
Concentrations higher than 50 ppm may damage the water lines
and/or tanks.
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• Drain the fresh water tank. Close the drain and pump the solution
(if desired) into the fresh water tank using an independently operated pump and a garden hose connected to City Water Hook-Up
on the water control panel. It can be poured into the fresh tank
using the gravity fill and a funnel. Run the water until you smell
a distinct chlorine bleach odor.
• Allow the system to stand for four hours.
• Drain the system and flush with fresh water. The drain is located
in the outside water service compartment. Install new water filters. Thoroughly flush with fresh water until no chlorine bleach
taste or smell is detected in the water system.

TANK CAPACITIES APPROXIMATE
MODEL
Grey
Black
Fresh
Diesel Fuel
LP
MODEL
Grey
Black
Fresh
Diesel Fuel
LP

6 • 1 6 6

34PBD
60
40
87
128 gal
43 gal

34PBS
60
40
87
128 gal
43 gal

40PBDS 40PBDD
60
60
40
40
87
87
128 gal
128 gal
43 gal
43 gal

36PBD
60
40
87
128 gal
43 gal

38PBD 38PBDD 40PBD
60
60
60
40
40
40
87
87
87
128 gal 128 gal 128 gal
43 gal
43 gal
43 gal

40PWD
60
40
87
128 gal
43 gal

40PKD 40PKDD
60
60
40
40
87
87
128 gal 128 gal
43 gal
43 gal

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The waste drainage system was designed to provide adequate and safe storage and/or discharge of waste materials. All materials used in fabrication and
installation of system is tested by a nationally recognized testing laboratory.
The entire fabricated waste system is factory tested in accordance with
American National Standards Code A119.2. The drainage system uses ABS
plastic piping and fittings connected to sinks, shower, toilet and holding tanks
and provides for their drainage to an outside termination. The motorhome
should be reasonably level for optimum operation of the systems. There are
two separate waste water systems: one for waste water (grey water) and one
for sewage waste (black water). Each has its own storage tank control valve
and both empty through a sewer drain hose. When traveling, it is recommend
both holding tanks be empty or less than half full.
• Do not use strong or full strength detergents to deodorize and
disinfect. Use odor control chemicals made especially for holding tanks.
• Do not put automotive antifreeze, ammonia, alcohol or acetone
in holding tanks. Some chemicals will dissolve plastic.
• Do not put large table scraps in the tanks. They could get stuck
in or damage the valve seals.
• Do not flush facial tissues. They are treated chemically to
strengthen them and will not dissolve like toilet paper. Special
holding tank tissues are available at most RV supply stores.
White toilet paper dissolves faster than colored papers.

Most State Parks have strict regulations about discharging wastes except
into authorized disposal systems. Dumping raw sewage from toilet holding
tanks, except at authorized dumping stations, is universally prohibited. Illegal
dumping along the roadside by a minority of recreational vehicle users has
resulted in tough laws, and has unfairly labeled all recreational vehicles as
unwelcome in some areas.
Most National, State and private parks have either a central dump facility or
campsite hook-up for sewage. Many of the modern rest areas along the interstate now have dump stations available. You will find a list of dumping stations
from coast to coast in Woodall’s Campground Directory, Trailer Life’s RV
Campgrounds and Services Directory, Rand McNally’s Campground and
Trailer Park Guide, Good Sam Park Director (Good Sam Club), and other publications. Some major oil companies offer dump facilities at selected stations.
Plan ahead in locating proper and legal disposal sites for holding tank wastes.

WINDSOR

WASTE WATER
SYSTEM
Waste Drain &
Sewage Tanks

What Not to Put in
Waste Holding Tanks

Proper Waste
Disposal

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TOILET

Operating
Instructions

The toilet operates from either fresh water tank or city water supply. The water
pump must be turned on or the city water connected. The toilet flushes directly into
a sewage holding tank (black water).
• To add water to the toilet before using press and hold small button
until the desired water level is reached. Generally, more water is
required only when flushing solids.
• To flush the toilet push the large button once.
• Pressing both buttons twice simultaneously opens the flush valve to
access the holding tank to add chemicals. Pressing the flush button
again will close the valve.
In the event the 12-Volt DC is lost at the toilet, the valve can be manually opened
using the override knob located in the back of the toilet. Early model toilets require
the use of a wrench to operate the valve. Newer models will have a thumbwheel.

Troubleshooting

Cleaning

Wiring:
• The toilet is wired to a 10 Amp Fuse in
the house distribution panel.
• The toilet has a 4 Amp 3AG “slow-blow”
in-line fuse located in the back of toilet.
Leaks:
• Back of toilet: check water supply line
connection.
• Between closet flange and toilet: Check screws for tightness. If leak
continues, remove toilet and check flange height. Adjust, if necessary
to 7/16” above floor. Replace flange seal if damaged.
• Poor flush: A good flush should be obtained within 2 to 3 seconds. If
problem persists remove the water supply line and check flow rate.
The flow rate should be at least ten quarts (9.5 liters) per minute.
• Bowl will not hold water: Check for foreign material in valve blade
groove in the flush drain.
The toilet should be cleaned regularly for maximum sanitation and operational
efficiency. Clean the toilet bowl with a mild bathroom cleaner. Do not use chlorine
or caustic chemicals, such as drain opening types, as they will damage the seals.
Clean out the system by flushing several gallons of fresh water through with one
cup of dry laundry detergent. Add odor control deodorant, in the amount specified
for your holding tank capacity, after cleaning and every few days during use.

Maintenance

6 • 1 6 8

To find leaks check behind or under toilet. Take four or five sheets of toilet tissue
and wipe all the seams and water line connections. Start at the top of the unit and
work downward. When the tissue comes in contact with leaking water it will immediately change texture.
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NOTE: Most chemical mixtures for holding tank odor control are poisonous. Follow the product manufacturer’s
directions and warnings when using any holding tank
additive.
Sinks, shower and clothes washer drains incorporate a water trap or
“P-trap” and auto vents to prevent waste water holding tank odor from
entering the motorhome. These P-traps for the most part are usually
within 54” of a vent tee. These traps must have water in them to block
odors. During storage water can evaporate and allow odor into
motorhome. If odor is detected run water into sinks, shower and
clothes washer to fill drain traps. The auto vent by design is to assist in
the flow of water in the drain lines. They enable a smooth flow of
water in the drain without creating a vacuum.

Drain Traps &
Auto Vents

The auto vent, if stuck in the open position, can allow grey odors to
enter the motorhome. These auto vents also double as “clean outs” in
the event you have to snake out a line.

NOTE: Most chemical mixtures for holding tank
odor control are poisonous. Follow the product manufacturer's directions and warnings when using any
holding tank additive.
When parked in an area with a sewer hook up, “exercise” the drain pipe
before hooking up the sewer hose. Swivel the pipe up and down by firmly
grasping both sides of the sewer drain pipe hose connection. This will exercise the O-rings. Leave the drain pipe pointing up to prevent any residual
material from running out.

Draining the
Waste Holding
Tanks

Attaching the Sewer Hose:
• Turn the drain end cap counterclockwise and remove it from
the drain pipe.
• Unscrew the hose access deck plate from the bottom of the
water service compartment. Feed the adapter end of the drain
hose up through the hole and install the hose adapter onto the
drain pipe.
• Rotate the drain pipe downward for maximum flow.
• Straighten and secure hose to avoid recoil. Attach the end of
the hose to the sewer connection at the dump station.
NOTE: Ensure sewer hose connections and hose clamps are secure
before use.

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The grey water holding tank valve (small valve) remains open when connected to the sewer hook-up. The black water holding tank valve (large valve)
remains closed at all times except when dumping the sewage tank. When
preparing to dump the black water holding tank, first close the grey water tank
valve. Allow the grey water tank fluid to accumulate until the tank is at least
half full or fill by running cold water through the sink and shower drains. Do
not overfill the grey water holding tank.
To aid in the removal of solids, dump the black tank when the tank is at least
50% full. If it is necessary to dump the black tank when the level is below 50%
add water by using the sewage tank flush system.
• With black valve closed use the sewage tank flush system to
increase the holding tank level.
• When adding water to the tank using the sewage tank flush system, closely observe the tank level by using the monitor panel
tank gauge indicator to prevent the tank from being overfilled.
• The sewage tank flush system should never be operated unattended.
Dumping the Waste Holding Tanks:
• With the grey water valve closed, open the black water valve to
drain the tank.
• Flush the sewage tank. Connect a separate non-potable water supply hose with pressure regulator to the sewage tank flush connection on the water service panel. For sanitary reasons, be sure not
use the potable city water hose for this procedure. The large gate
valve remains open throughout the flushing cycle. Turn the water
on and flush the black water system for approximately two minutes. Ensure water is flowing freely through the sewer hose.
• When finished flushing the system, turn the water off and close
the black water valve.
• Open the grey water valve.
• The waste water tank is flushed by running two gallons of water
down a sink drain.
• If applicable, close the grey water valve for transit.
• Disconnect and flush the drain hose with either the non-potable
water supply hose or the exterior faucet. Secure the sewer hose in
the travel location. Disconnect and stow the non-potable hose.
• Install the end cap (required by law in some states) and deck plate
when in transit to prevent leakage. Swivel sewer drain pipe up.
NOTE: Periodically lubricate the O-ring on the sewer hose adapter
with silicone spray. Use care when connecting the hose adapter to the
drain pipe in cold weather.

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WARNING: When using the black tank flush do not leave the
motorhome unattended or flooding may occur. The sewage tank
flush system should be used each time the black water holding
tank is dumped. Failure to routinely use the sewage flush system
will result in a clogged spray nozzle. Turn off the water supply to
the black tank flush when finished.

The black water sewage tank stores toilet drain waste only. Before using the What to Put into the
Holding Tanks
toilet, treat the sewage holding tank with water that is mixed with an odor conBlack
Water Tank
trolling chemical. These chemicals are readily available at any RV supply
store. The chemicals are poured into the holding tank through the toilet. Add
three gallons of water to the holding tank first then mix the chemicals with
approximately one gallon of water and add to the holding tank. Be careful not
to spill the chemical on your hands, clothing or carpet as it can cause permanent stain. Extremely hot weather areas may require adjusted amounts of
chemical to help with odor control. Repeat the chemical pre-change to the
holding tank each time the tank is dumped.
CAUTION: Do not use any products that contain petroleum distillates or ammonia in place of an RV odor controlling chemical.
Petroleum distillates or ammonia will damage the ABS plastic
holding tanks and seals.

The grey water waste tank stores the sink, shower and clothes washer drain What to Put into the
water. No chemical is required in this holding tank however, a waste holding
Holding Tanks
- Grey Water Tank
tank can produce odors. A reduced mixture of chemicals may be used for odor
control.
Prior to dumping the waste holding tanks, be sure there is enough liquid in
the holding tanks to provide a smooth flow through the valve drain pipe and
drain hose. When sufficient liquid is in the tank a swirling action will result
that should take accumulated solid wastes along with the waste liquid when the
tank is dumped. The tanks should be emptied when they reach ½ full, or weekly, to prevent stagnation and overfilling.

Cold Weather Use:
A motorhome is not designed for extended use in below freezing
(32° F/0° C) weather; however, you may not experience any problems as long
as the temperature does not drop too low. Interior water lines, fixtures, water
storage tanks and pumps are normally protected from moderate freezing temperatures, as long as the furnace is operating. Exposed drains may freeze
quickly. If in doubt about what temperatures the motorhome will tolerate, winterize with a potable antifreeze.
WINDSOR

COLD WEATHER
USE

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Bay Heater
Operation

The heater is controlled using two switches, one on the heater itself and a
remote “SYSTEMS HEAT’ switch located in an inside overhead compartment
next to entrance door. Both switches must be in ON position for the heater to
operate. Either switch in the OFF position will turn the heater off.
Heater has two controls
1. Function Select Switch:
• Left Position: Fan only on.
• Middle Position: Heater off.
• Right Position: Both fan and heater on.
2. Thermostat:
• Rotate right or clockwise to increase temperature setting.
• Rotate left or counter clockwise to reduce temperature setting.

COLD WEATHER
PACKAGE
(Optional)

The cold weather package consists of one 12 Volt electric heating pad
attached to each holding tank. Heating pads are turned on and off using the
same “SYSTEMS HEAT” switch, located in an inside overhead compartment
next to entrance door, that turns on the bay heater. Pad operation is controlled
by a thermostat designed to turn on at 44°F and off at 64°F. Power to pads
should be turned ON when ambient temperatures approach 44°F. There must be
liquid in the holding tanks when the pads are turned on.

CAUTION: Turn OFF power to pads when dumping the
holding tanks, plugging motorhome into shore power and
when starting the electric generator to prevent damage to the
pad thermostat.
Storage:
If storing the motorhome where freezing temperatures may occur, the
domestic fresh water loop will need to be completely drained of water. When
draining the domestic fresh water system start off by draining the fresh water
tank. Open the drain lever for the fresh tank and allow the water to drain.

NOTE: Ice makers, water filters, water purifiers, water
heaters,washers and the Aqua Hot all use domestic water and
should be drained and stored in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendation for winterization.

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How you decide to store your motorhome and protect the water lines is
up to you. You may elect to have the water lines blown out with air to
remove standing water or fill the lines using an approved FDA RV antifreeze.
When using either method, all the interior and exterior faucets will need to
be opened and closed, one at a time, to verify that all water has been purged.
All low point drains should be opened, and holding tanks emptied.

To use air pressure to winterize your motorhome you will need access
to an air compressor and adapter to connect the air line to your water system. Adapters can be found at any RV supply store. System pressure
should not exceed 50 psi. when hooked to the water lines. Higher pressure
will damage the lines.

WINTERIZING

Fresh Water System
Using Air Pressure

1. Remove the water filter elements from the filters and reassemble the filters without the elements (see “Water Filter”).
2. Drain the fresh water tank by opening the valve located in the
outside water control service compartment of the motorhome.
3. Open the water heater and the low-point drains. Turn knobs to
open the drains. Opening the low point drains clears the water
out of the hot and cold water lines. Leave the low-point valves
open until you are ready to use the motorhome again.
4. Let all the water drain. Turn the pump on and allow it to run
so that all the water is cleared out of the pump and lines. Turn
the pump off.
5. After the water lines are drained, hook an air hose to the city
water connection located on the water control panel in the outside service compartment. Blow out the water lines until no
further water can be seen coming out of the drain lines. Do not
exceed 50 psi in the water lines and faucets.
6. Open all faucets (including the outside spigot), one at a time
while the air is on, to clear water from the faucet supply lines.
Do not forget to drain your shower.
7. While the air is on, hold the spray nozzle (located right next
to the toilet) open until the water has quit running. Hold the
toilet flush pedal/handle down until the water has stopped running.
8. Unhook the air hose and close the city water connection.
9. You will need 1 gallon of RV antifreeze to protect various
water drain lines in your motorhome. Pour 1 pint into both the
kitchen and bath shower drains. Pour 2 pints into the bath sink
drain, with some of the antifreeze going into grey tank to protect the drain valve. While holding down the flush button,
pour another 3-1/2 pints into the toilet, letting the antifreeze
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run into the black tank to protect the valve. Pour the last pint of
antifreeze into the toilet after you have released the flush button.
Micropher toilets may be stopped in the middle of the flush
cycle. Locate the on/off switch below the tank lid. Initiate the
flush cycle then turn the switch off in the middle of the flush
cycle. Use a soft cloth to wipe out the sinks and shower after you
pour in the antifreeze to protect the surfaces from stains.
10. Leave the low-point drains open until you are ready to use your
motorhome again.

WARNING: When draining the low point hot water drain lines
and the water heater, be sure the water is cool. Hot water from
the lines can burn you.

Using Nontoxic
Antifreeze

Ten gallons of FDA approved approved RV antifreeze will be required to
winterize the motorhome.
1. Remove the water filter elements from the filters and reassemble
the filters without the elements (see “Water Filter”).
2. Open all of the low point drains (next to the aqua-hot) and the
drain valves to drain: the fresh water tank, water heater tank,
holding tanks and fresh water lines.
3. Close all faucets, drain valves and low point drains.
4. Pump antifreeze into fresh water tank using independently operated water pump connected to WATER TANK - FRESH WATER
FILL hook-up.
5. Turn ON the system water pump and operate each faucet individually until a small amount of antifreeze is present.
6. Close off the faucets.
7. Open the shower faucets and toilet valves to allow a small
amount of antifreeze to run into the holding tanks.
8. Use a soft cloth to wipe out the sinks and shower to protect surfaces from antifreeze stains.
9. Exterior faucet should be opened and closed using the same procedures as the interior faucets.
10. If the motorhome is equipped with an ice maker, remove the 3/4
inch fitting and flush antifreeze through the water line.
11. Disconnect the power supply line affecting water pump operation.
For de-winterization, drain off the fresh tank and fill the fresh tank with
water. Reconnect the power supply line for the water pump. Operate all faucets,
one at a time, until clear water is present.

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WARNING: You should use only non-toxic RV antifreeze that is
specifically made for potable water systems. Automotive antifreeze,
if ingested, can cause blindness, deafness or death.
WARNING: It is recommended that this procedure be done by a
qualified RV service technician familiar with motorhomes, such as
your authorized selling dealer.

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NOTES

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WINDSOR

SECTION 7
LP-GAS SYSTEMS
LP-GAS SYSTEM • 179
LP-GAS DETECTOR • 180
Operation • 180
Testing • 180
Care of the Detector • 181
MONITOR PANEL MEASUREMENT & CALIBRATION • 182
CHECKLIST - LP-GAS EMERGENCY PROCEDURES • 182
LP-GAS TANK • 183
Operation • 183
LP-GAS REGULATOR • 184
LP-GAS CONSUMPTION • 185
LP-GAS DISTRIBUTION LINES • 185
LP-GAS FUNDAMENTALS • 186

7

LP-Gas System

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This section contains information and knowledge for the operation and
care of the various Liquefied Petroleum (LP-Gas) system equipment found in
the motorhome. The motorhome is equipped with several appliances and various equipment which are capable to operate on LP-Gas. Some items discussed
may not be applicable to your motorhome. More detailed information with
CAUTION or WARNING instructions for the various equipment, other than
what is found in this section, can be found in the manufacturer’s manual in
the owner information box.
All components for your motorhome LP-Gas systems are approved for use
in camping vehicles by a nationally recognized testing laboratory. When properly handled, LP-Gas is a clean-burning dependable fuel for heat producing
components. The LP-Gas tank mounted in your motorhome contains liquid
petroleum gas under high pressure. As fuel is used, liquid gas vaporizes and
passes through the tank valve to a regulator that automatically reduces pressure. Low-pressure gas is then distributed to components through a pipe manifold system.
Component lighting problems are commonly caused by an improperly
adjusted gas regulator. Never attempt to reset regulator yourself. Have your
dealer or an authorized service person make adjustments.
In higher elevations or extreme cold weather (10° F/-21° C or lower) you
may experience a shortage of LP-Gas. You can adjust to this by not running
more than one component at a time, such as turning off furnace while using
the range. If you are going to be in higher elevations or cold climates for a
long period of time an authorized service person can adjust your LP-Gas regulator for these conditions.
We recommend that you have the LP-Gas system checked by an authorized
dealer at least once a year, and thereafter every extended trip. Although manufacturer and dealer both test carefully for leakage, travel vibrations could
loosen fittings.
Leaks can be easily found by applying leak detector solution at connections. If leak detector solution is not available a soapy water solution made
with dish soap can be used. Tightening fittings usually stops any leaks. If not,
shut off main gas valve at tank and see your authorized dealer for repairs
immediately. Hand tighten tank valves only, do not use a wrench or pliers as
over tightening may damage valve seats and cause them to leak. If you suspect
a leak, which is an easily identified odor (smells like rotten eggs/sulfur) never
light a match or have an open flame.

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LP-GAS SYSTEM

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LP-GAS DETECTOR

Provided for safety is a gas detector. This gas detector will detect both LPGas and Methane Gas. Liquefied Petroleum (LP) Gas is heavier than air,
Methane Gas is lighter than air. LP-Gas will settle to the lowest point, generally
the floor of the motorhome. Methane Gas will rise. The gas detector is also sensitive to other fumes such as hair spray, of which most contain butane as the
propellant. Butane, like propane, is heavier than air and will settle to the floor
level where it will be detected. When this occurs, press reset button to stop alert
sound for 60 seconds.
The other combustibles which will be detected include alcohol, liquor,
deodorants, colognes, perfumes, wine, adhesives, lacquer, kerosene, gasoline,
glues, most of all cleaning agents and propellant of aerosol cans. Most are
lighter than air in their vapor state and will only be detected when the
motorhome is closed up.

LP Detector

Operation

Upon first application of power the LED will flash yellow for 3 minutes
while the detector is stabilizing. At the end of the start cycle the LED will turn
Green indicating full operation. If detector senses unsafe levels of gas it will
immediately sound an alarm.
The gas detector operates on 12 volts, with a current draw less than 1/10th
of one amp.
CAUTION: This detector will not alarm during the 3 minute
warm up cycle.

Testing

Depress the TEST switch any time during the warm up cycle or while in
normal operation. The LED should flash RED and the alarm should sound.
Release the switch. This is the only way you should test your detector. The test
feature checks full operation of the detector.
WARNING: Test the operation of this detector after the
motorhome has been in storage, before each trip and at least once
per week during use.

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The Red LED will flash and the alarm will sound whenever a dangerous
level of propane or methane gas is detected. The detector will continue to
alarm until the gas clears or the Mute switch is pressed.
Procedures To Take During An Alarm:
1. Turn off all gas appliances (stove, heaters, furnace),
extinguish all flames and smoking material.
Evacuate, leave doors and windows open.
2. Turn off the propane tank valve.
3. Determine and repair the source of the leak. Seek
professional help if necessary.
CAUTION: Do Not re-enter until the problem is corrected.
Alarm Mute
Press the Test-Mute button when the detector is in alarm.
1. The Red LED will continue flash and the alarm will
beep every 30 seconds until the gas level has
dropped to a safe level.
2. The LED will flash Green until the end of the Mute
cycle.
3. If dangerous gas levels return before the end of the
mute cycle the alarm will beep 4 times and return to
phase 1.
4. After 2 minutes the detector will return to normal
operation (solid Green) or resound the alarm if dangerous levels of gas remain in the area.
Fault Alarm
Should the microprocessor sense a fault in the gas detector, a fault alarm
will sound twice every 15 seconds. The LED will alternately flash Red to
Green and the MUTE switch will not respond to any command. The gas
detector must be repaired or replaced.
1. Vacuum the dust off the detector cover weekly (more
frequently in dusty locations) using the soft brush
attachment of your vacuum.
2. Do not spray cleaning agents or waxes directly onto
the front panel. This action may damage the sensor,
cause an alarm or cause a detector malfunction.

WINDSOR

Care of
the Detector

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MONITOR PANEL
MEASUREMENT
& CALIBRATION

Tank Measurement - To measure level of a tank simply push button on display panel corresponding to tank you wish to measure. Lights on panel will turn
on in sequence indicating level of tank.
Calibration - The monitoring panel comes factory calibrated for accuracy
and should not need to be adjusted. If system does not read accurately recalibration may be necessary.
To recalibrate LP tank gauge proceed as follows:
Using adjustment tool, simultaneously push button for tank and rotate
adjustment point. Turn counterclockwise until the light indication is decreasing.
Gently rotate the adjustment back clockwise until the light indication is at full.

NOTE: Fill LP tank prior to calibration.

CHECKLISTLP-GAS
EMERGENCY
PROCEDURES

If you smell gas (a rotten egg or sulfur smell) at any time, perform the following steps immediately:
• Shut off gas appliances.
• Manually turn off the main gas supply at the tank.
• Do not attempt to operate any electric switch.
• Open windows and doors.
• Evacuate the motorhome.
• Keep open flames, spark producing devices and smoking material out
of the area.
• Contact a qualified service technician to find the source and repair
the gas leak.

WARNING: A fire or explosion from ignited gas or gas fumes
can seriously injure you or cause death.

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Woodall’s Campground and Trailer Guide and other similar publications list refueling stations. Many travel parks sell
LP-Gas. Shut off the pilot lights, appliances and igniters before
filling the LP-Gas tank to prevent a fire or explosion. Have a
trained service person fill the LP-Gas tank.
The LP-Gas tank fill and bleed valves are located in the LPGas tank access outside compartment. Caution the service technician, if your tank is new and being filled for the first time, to
purge any air from the tank before filling. When the tank is
filled to the proper level there is space available for the conversion of liquid into gas. If a tank is over- filled it may vent pressure. When this happens you may detect a strong rotten egg
odor near the tank and/or hear a hissing noise.

LP-GAS TANK

LP-Gas Tank

WARNING: Turn off all pilot lights and appliances during
the refueling of the motorhome and filling the LP-Gas
tank to prevent a fire or explosion.
LP-Gas exists in both the liquid and vapor state with the LP-Gas tank. A
“Full” tank is approximately 80% liquid. The pressure inside the tank varies
with the temperature of the liquid. All tanks are required to be equipped with
a pressure relief device. The purpose of the relief valve is to release gas or
liquid caused by overpressurization. You will notice the gauge at the tank,
when full, will only read 3/4. Your monitor panel is adjusted to indicate
FULL at this point.
If you are storing portable LP-Gas tanks (do not transport or store LP-Gas
tanks, gasoline or other flammable liquids inside the motorhome) that are not
connected to an LP-Gas system. Install an approved plug in the tank outlet
holes to prevent leaks. Do not store empty LP-Gas tanks. Keep open flame
and spark producing materials away from the LP-Gas area. If this warning is
ignored a fire or explosion could result. Shut off all appliances and LP-Gas
tank valves (located on side of LP-Gas tank underneath the motorhome)
when the motorhome is in storage.
CAUTION: Pressure inside LP-Gas tanks can reach over 300
psi when exposed to direct sunlight. A high pressure safety
relief valve will purge excess high pressure if necessary. LP-Gas
will stop vaporizing as the LP-Gas tank temperature approaches -40º F. Appliances which consume large amounts of LP-Gas,
such as the water heater or furnace, will need to be operated in
sequence in extremely cold environments.
• Manually open the main shut-off valve located on the
roadside of the LP-Gas tank.
• Turn off the manual valve on the LP-Gas tank when
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Operation
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the motorhome is in between trips.
• Hand tighten the manual valve. Do not use a wrench or
pliers to close the valve.
• The manual valve is designed to be closed by hand, over
tightening may permanently damage the valve seat.

LP-GAS REGULATOR

LP-Gas Regulator

The regulator is the heart of an LP-Gas system.
The LP-Gas in the tank is under high pressure. The
regulator reduces the pressure of gas so that it is
safe to use with various appliances. The regulator
on the motorhome is a two-stage regulator. Simply
put, the first stage regulator reduces the full tank
pressure down to a range of 10-13 psi. The second
stage further reduces the pressure down to an outlet
pressure of 0.4 psi (11 inches of column water). The
regulator is equipped with a vent so that it can
breathe. This means that if pressure in the LP tank
is too high the regulator will allow gas to escape
through the vent until pressure returns to a normal
range. It is important to keep the vent clean and
clear of obstructions or corrosion. If the vent
becomes clogged, pressure from LP tank could
cause a failure of the components. If you notice any
corrosion contact a qualified LP-Gas service technician. The regulator is mounted so that the vent faces
downward. If the vent becomes clogged you can
clean it with a toothbrush.
Under normal atmospheric conditions a LP regulator will not freeze, nor will the LP-Gas. The gas
passing through the regulator will expand and cool
creating moisture in the gas. This moisture will turn
to ice which can build up and partially or totally
block the orifice. The possibilities of freeze up is
greatly reduced with the two stage regulator.
Things you can do to prevent this freeze up are:
1. Ensure the LP tank is totally free of moisture prior to filling.
2. Ensure the tank is not overfilled.
3. Keep the valve closed when the tank is empty.
4. A LP-Gas dealer will need to purge the tank if freeze up occurs.
5. Have the LP-Gas dealer inject methyl alcohol in the tank.

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WARNING: Do not attempt to adjust the regulator, it is preset
at the factory. If adjustments need to be made it requires special equipment. Failure to follow these instructions may result
in a fire or explosion and cause severe personal injury or
death. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REENTER THE
MOTORHOME UNTIL THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN CORRECTED!
Each gallon of LP-Gas produces approximately 92,000 BTU’s of heat. One 27
gallon tank produces two million BTU’s. Total consumption depends on the rate
of usage by each appliance and the operating time. The stove and heating systems
typically use the most gas. With sub-freezing temperatures and high winds, consumption by the furnace can be very high. Check the tank level often in cold
weather.

LP-GAS
CONSUMPTION

WARNING: LP-Gas is highly volatile and extremely explosive.
Never use matches or open flame to test for leaks. Use only
approved LP-Gas leak testing solution to test for leaks. Unapproved
solutions can damage copper tubing and brass fittings. Never
attempt to adjust LP-Gas regulators without the use of proper
equipment. Improper LP-Gas regulator adjustment will affect the
performance of LP-Gas operated appliances. Incorrect flame or
explosion can occur. Only qualified personnel should perform any
maintenance or repair to the LP-Gas system.

A primary manifold black steel pipe running throughout the motorhome distributes LP-Gas to secondary lines. All secondary lines leading to gas appliances
are made of copper tubing with flared fittings. If any lines rupture do not attempt
to splice them. Always run a new line. We recommend gas distribution work be
performed by an authorized dealer or an authorized service technician. When
removing or servicing any gas appliance, manually close the main valve located
on the side of the LP-Gas tank. This will prevent dangerous gas leakage that
could result in an explosion and possible serious injury. If you suspect a gas leak
get the system inspected and repaired by a qualified service technician as soon as
possible.

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LP-GAS
DISTRIBUTION
LINES

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LP-GAS
FUNDAMENTALS

# Capacity Gallon Capacity

BTU Capacity

5

1.18

107,903

10

2.36

215,807

11

2.59

237,387

20

4.72

431,613

30

7.08

647,420

40

9.43

863,226

CONVERSIONS
Gallons to Liters
(1 Gallon = 3.785 Liters)
Fahrenheit to Celsius
(F° = 9/5 C° + 32°)
11” Water Column = 6 1/4 ozs. per sq. in. pressure.
27.7” Water Column = 1 pound per sq. in. pressure.
The above capacities allow for 20% vapor space on each cylinder.
*Data taken from the National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA). Pamphlet #58-1998.

Basic Facts About LP-Gas:
Pounds Per Gallon
Specific Gravity of Gas
Specific Gravity of Liquid
Cubic Feet Gas Per Gallon of Liquid
Cubic Feet Gas Per Pound
BTU Per Gallon
BTU Per Pound
Dew Point in Degrees Fahrenheit
Vapor Pressure at 0° F
Vapor Pressure at 70° F
Vapor Pressure at 100° F
Vapor Pressure at 110° F

4.24
1.50
.504
36.38
8.66
91,502
21,548
-44F°
31
127
196
230

NOTE: The above information is not a complete guide for
the use of LP-Gas tanks or appliances. In cold climates keep
fuel levels above 50% in order to keep vaporization of LPGas at the highest level.

7 • 1 8 6

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SECTION 8
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - HOUSE

DISTRIBUTION PANEL - HOUSE 110 • 206
INTRODUCTION • 189
AC Panel • 206
Shore Power • 189
Circuit Breaker • 208
Power Cord Reel (Optional) • 189
ENERGY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
Generator • 190
50 AMP(OPTIONAL) • 208
Inverter/Converter • 190
BATTERY DISCONNECT - HOUSE • 191 DISTRIBUTION PANEL - HOUSE 12 VOLT • 211
Fuses • 211
BATTERY CUT-OFF SWITCH • 192
Tools of the Trade • 212
SHORE POWER HOOK-UP • 192
Know the Limits • 212
Transfer Switch • 193
BATTERY - HOW IT WORKS • 213
GENERATOR - 120 AC • 193
Starting Battery • 213
Starting the Generator • 194
Deep Cycle Battery • 214
Stopping the Generator • 194
Battery Maintenance • 214
Powering the Equipment • 195
Battery Tray • 215
Resetting the Circuit Breaker • 195
Testing the Battery • 215
Generator Exercise • 196
Seven Reasons Why Batteries Fail • 216
INVERTER/CONVERTER • 196
Battery Voltage & Current • 217
RC7 GS Remote • 196
Stand-by Operation • 197 Battery Charge Time & Consumption Rate • 219
Battery Specifications • 220
Battery Charging with the Inverter • 197
SOLAR PANEL (Optional) • 221
Battery Temperature Sensor • 198
Charge Controller Features • 222
Pass-through AC Power • 198
Solar Panel Care • 222
Operating Display • 198
BULB USAGE - INTERIOR • 223
Meter Menu • 199
Programming the RC 7 GS • 200
Adjusting Field Settings • 200
Automatic Generator Start • 202
Equalize Charging • 204
Re-booting the Inverter • 206

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The motorhome 120/240 Volt AC system can be operated from three
different power sources. Shore power is the most efficient and should be
used whenever possible. The on board generator has a limited amount of 120
Volts AC output power. This can be used when shore power is unavailable.
The inverter/converter supplies silent AC power by using the motorhome’s
house batteries. This source has limited AC power output and should be used
sparingly.
The motorhome’s main 120 Volt AC circuit breaker panel is supplied with
power from two different sources: The 50 amp shore power cord or the on
board generator. The selection of the power source being used is done automatically by using an automatic electrical switching device known as the
transfer switch.

The power requirement for the motorhome is 50 amp 120/240 Volt AC
single phase. If a 50 amp shore power service is available, the motorhome can
be directly plugged into the 50 amp shore power source with the supplied
shore power cord located in a roadside compartment of the motorhome. If a
50 amp service is not available, proper electrical adapters will be required to
convert the end of the 50 amp shore cord into a compatible type of connection
for the available receptacle. When plugged to anything other than a 50 amp
service, appliances and other AC loads will have to be operated in sequence.

INTRODUCTION

Shore Power

NOTE: In many instances 50 amp shore service may not be
available. Therefore, care will have to be taken when drawing
power from multiple appliances and outlets so that the shore
power service will not become overloaded. Use only power
cords which are rated at 50 amps. Avoid using extension cords
when connecting the motorhome to shore power. In most cases,
extension cords are unsafe and inadequate for carrying the
level of current required by the motorhome.

The power cord reel is a 12 Volt DC motorized assembly which will
mechanically oil and stow the shore cord. The 50 amp power cord reel is
located in the roadside compartment of the motorhome. The other end of the
cable master power cord is wired directly to the transfer switch. The motor
control switch is labeled IN and OUT, this switch operates the 12 Volt DC
motor.
When extending or retracting the power cord, turn the switch to the direction desired. Assist the cord, following the direction of travel. Extend only as
much power cord as necessary for reaching the outlet. The cord should not
be taut but slightly slack.

WINDSOR

Power Cord Reel
(Optional)

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Maintenance:
When only a short section of the shore power cable is frequently used the
cable may coil sharper than normal, causing kinking of the cable. To relieve this
condition, routinely extend the cable full distance. Straighten the power cable
on the ground. It is important the cable remains clean. Dust and dirt on the
cable may cause the system to be unable to retract the cord. After the cable is
cleaned and straightened, allow the cablemaster to retract the cable into the
motorhome.
At least once a year check all AC and DC wiring connections to be sure they
are secure and free of corrosion. Check the neoprene covers on the in-limit
switch and the power switch to be sure they are free of cracks or fracture.

CAUTION: Before plugging motorhome into shore power,
starting the generator or using the inverter make sure all the
appliances are off.
WARNING: Disconnect the shore power cord and the negitive
12 Volt DC battery cable (at the inverter) before working on
the electrical system.
Insure that the inverter/converter is turned OFF before disconnecting the
negative terminal from the Inverter. Remove rings, metal watch bands and
other metal jewelry before working around batteries and connectors. Be cautious when using metal tools. If a tool contacts a battery terminal, or metal
connected to it, a short circuit could occur causing personal injury, explosion or
fire.

Generator

The generator can be selected for use when AC shore power is not
available. The motorhome’s on board generator has limited 120 Volt AC power
output capabilities. The generator’s maximum amount of output power is specified in watts, calculated at an elevation of 500 feet above sea level. The maximum power available will decrease when there is an increase in altitude.
Ambient temperature also affects total maximum output. Fuel consumption is
based upon a percentage of AC electrical load applied to the generator. While
using the generator, care will have to be taken when operating appliances and
outlets so that the generator will not be overloaded. The generator is fueled
from the main fuel tank.

Inverter/Converter

The inverter/converter can be used for silent AC power if shore power is not
available and using the generator is not going to be selected as a secondary
power source option. This device has limited AC power output measured in
watts. It operates only selected appliances and outlets. The inverter/converter is
two components in one. Its first function is as an auxiliary 120 Volt AC power
source that uses 12 Volt DC house battery power to invert to 120 Volts AC
power. The second function of the inverter/converter is to use 120 Volts AC,
supplied from either shore power or the generator, and convert it to 12 Volts DC
power to recharge the batteries.

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The main house battery disconnect switch turns the battery power supply
on or off. The domestic battery disconnect switch shuts off the 12 Volt DC
power to the following items: the inverter, the domestic fuse panel in the
bedroom, the domestic fuse panel in the front run box and the domestic
power supply in the rear run box(s). Turn the main battery disconnect switch
off when the motorhome is going to be stored or before performing electrical
maintenance on the motorhome. If possible, leave the motorhome plugged
into an AC source with the battery disconnect switch on. This will help prevent the possibility of dead batteries. Use of the battery cut-off switch at the
entry door will not turn off all DC electrical items or other parasitic loads.
There are small parasitic loads that are present on the house battery. Some
are federal mandate items such as the LP-Gas detector. If an AC source is not
available and the motorhome is not going to be used, or is stored more than
48 hours, it is recommended to turn the battery disconnect switch off.

BATTERY
DISCONNECT HOUSE

NOTE: The solar panels will charge the batteries with the disconnect switch off.
WARNING: When the frame or other welding is involved for
motorhome repair or modification, the following precautions are
required to protect electronic components in the motorhome
chassis:
1. Disconnect the (+) positive and (-) negative battery connection,
and any electronic control ground wires connected to the frame
or chassis.
2. Cover electronic control components and wiring to protect
from hot sparks.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors at the transmission
electronic control unit. Open bed storage compartment, open
engine access door. The transmission ECU is located above the
transmission.
4. Do not connect welding cables to electronic control components.
5. The welding ground cable should be attached no more than
two feet from the area to be welded.
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BATTERY CUT-OFF SWITCH

OFF

OFF

ON

ON

STEP
LIGHTS

BATTERY
CUTOFF

SHORE POWER
HOOK-UP

The battery cut-off switch is located inside and next to the entry
door. This switch controls the 12 Volt DC power to the domestic
fuse panels. When the switch is ON power is supplied to all interior
DC lighting and DC operated appliances. Although, some appliances will require both DC and AC power to operate, such as the
roof air conditioner. This switch is helpful when dry camping and
can be used to conserve house battery power. Refrigerator and
inverter operation are unaffected by the operation of this switch.
When turned off, this switch will not stop all parasitic loads and
therefore, is not a substitute for the main battery disconnect switch.

If 50 amp shore power service is available, all that is necessary is to
connect the motorhome to the 50 amp shore power service using the supplied
shore power cord. The cord is located in the compartment on the roadside of
the motorhome. Before hooking up to the park’s shore power, verify that proper voltage and ground protection are present at the outlets. After hooking up to
shore power, verify proper voltage and ground protection are present in the
motorhome itself. Inexpensive testers are available for this purpose. Always
turn off the power circuit breaker previous to connecting or disconnecting the
shore power cord. This will avoid the risk of electrical shock and momentary
contact flash. After the unit is connected to shore power, wait approximately
one minute for the inverter to “stabilize” charging of the batteries before starting air conditioners or other large AC loads. In many instances 50 amp shore
service is not available. Proper electrical adapters must be used to connect the
supplied shore power cord to the shore service available. When connecting to
anything other than 50 amp shore service, use caution not to overload the supplied shore service breaker. Appliances and outlet loads will have to be operated in sequence, rather than all at the same time.

CAUTION: Avoid the risk of electrical shock or component
damage by disconnecting from shore power during electrical
storm activity. Use the inverter or start the generator if AC
power is needed.
CAUTION: If shore power service is limited to 15 or 20 amps,
use of light duty extension cords and electrical adapters will
create a voltage loss through the cord and at each electrical
connection. Line voltage loss and the resistance at each electrical connection can be a hazardous combination. Damage to
sensitive electronic equipment may result!
WARNING: Keep fingers away from metal contacts of shore
plug end. Avoid standing water. Serious electrical shock and
personal injury can occur. To avoid the risk of an electrical
shock turn the circuit breaker off for the shore power outlet
before making a shore power connection.
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The transfer switch automatically transfers power from the shore
power cord or generator through the transfer switch to the 110 Volt AC
breaker panel. When the generator is used as the power source the
transfer switch has a time delay built into it. This allows the generator
time to warm up before an AC load is applied to it. The transfer switch
will automatically select the generator over shore power even though
shore power is hooked up.

Transfer Switch

NOTE: To prevent damage to the transfer switch do
not have appliances on or AC loads plugged into outlets
when hooking up to shore power or starting generator.
The transfer switch will begin to disengage between 8590 Volts AC. Operation at this voltage may damage
transfer switch, appliances or other items plugged into
outlets.
The generator is located in the front compartment of the motorhome. The
generator tray is power driven. To open or close the generator compartment,
actuate the generator IN/OUT switch located on the shifter panel beside the
drivers seat or the switch located in the outside front roadside compartment.
The generator can be started from the following locations:

GENERATOR 120 AC

• The generator remote switch located in the driver’s area.
• The generator control panel, located on the generator.
• The control panel in the bedroom.
Prestart Checks:
Prior to the first start of the day, perform a general inspection
including oil and coolant levels. Keep a maintenance log on
number of hours in operation since the last service. Before starting the generator:
• Perform any service or maintenance that may be due.
• Make sure people and animals are clear of hazards of electrical
shock and moving parts.
• Have all appliances and other large AC electrical loads are off.

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Starting the
Generator

Push and hold control switch in START position until the generator starts.
Release switch. On diesel models the control switch may flash up to 15
seconds, indicating engine preheat.

NOTE: Diesel models may require priming. Hold control
switch in the OFF position for one minute. Repeat if necessary. The diesel generator fuel pick-up tube is cut to approximately 1/4 tank so as not to run the main engine out of fuel.
WARNING: Excessive cranking can overheat and damage
the starter motor. Do not crank the engine more than 30 seconds at any one time. Wait at least two minutes before
resuming. If the generator fails to start refer to the manufacturer’s manual.
WARNING: When the motorhome is parked, position the
dash air conditioner vent control in the OFF position to prevent exhaust gases from entering the motorhome. The engine
exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which is an odorless and
colorless gas. Carbon monoxide is poisonous and can cause
unconsciousness and/or death. Inspect the exhaust system
thoroughly before starting the generator. Do not block the
exhaust pipe or situate the motorhome where the exhaust
may accumulate either outside, underneath, or inside the
motorhome or any nearby vehicles. Operate the generator
only when safe dispersion of exhaust can be assured. Monitor
the outside conditions to be sure that the exhaust continues to
disperse safely.
WARNING: When parking near high grass, be sure that the
hot exhaust does not come into contact with the grass, it
could be a fire hazard. Hot exhaust pipe or hot exhaust gases
can ignite the grass.

Stopping the
Generator

Turn off the appliances and disconnect other AC loads being used. Allow the
generator to run unloaded for at least one minute before shutdown. This will
allow the engine to cool. Push and hold the control switch in the STOP position
until the generator stops. Release the switch.

NOTE: Diesel models require only a momentary stop signal.

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The AC output of the generator powers the motorhome air conditioners,
the AC inverter/converter charger, all appliances and items plugged into the
electrical outlets of the motorhome. The number of electrical appliances that
can be operated at any given time depends upon how much power is available from the generator. If the generator is “overloaded” or a short circuit
causes “over current,” either the generator will shut down or the circuit
breaker will trip. If power consumption, in total, exceeds the generator power
output, compensation for temperature and elevation may be necessary.
Operate some appliances in sequence rather than all at the same time.

Powering The
Equipment

NOTE: The generator may shut down when it is loaded
nearly to full power and an air conditioner (or other large
motor load) cycles on. For a brief moment during start up
an electric motor can draw up to three times the rated
power. For this reason it may be necessary to operate some
appliances in sequence when air conditioners or other large
motor loads are on.
It is important to remember that air density decreases as altitude increases, causing the generator engine power to decrease. Power decreases at
approximately three percent of the rated power each 1,000 feet (305M) of
increase in elevation above sea level. It may be necessary to operate fewer
appliances at the same time when the camping location is at a higher elevation. For example: 7,500 watt generator at 5,000 ft. = 6,375 watts net.
Temperature also affects maximum output power. For example: at 120º a
7,500 watt generator produces 6,000 watts net.

REFERENCE: The diesel generator may shut down for
other reasons beside “overloads.” A blink code may
appear on the control switch. Refer to the manufacturer’s
manual to obtain an explanation of the codes.
If a circuit breaker trips in the main AC breaker panel, or on the generator
control panel, there may be a short circuit or too much load.

Resetting the
Circuit Breaker

NOTE: The generator will continue to run after a circuit
breaker trips.
If a circuit breaker trips, disconnect or turn off as many loads as possible.
To reset the circuit breaker, switch the circuit breaker to OFF; then switch
back to ON to reconnect the circuit. If the circuit breaker immediately trips,
the electrical distribution system has a short or the circuit breaker is faulty.
Call a qualified electrician. If the circuit breaker does not trip, reconnect a
combination of loads that will not overload the generator or cause the circuit
breaker to trip again. Remember to compensate for elevation and temperature
changes when reconnecting loads.
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NOTE: An appliance or load may have a short if it causes a
circuit breaker to trip after reconnection. DO NOT continue
to reset breaker. Have the problem corrected before resuming
operation.

Generator Exercise

If use of the generator is infrequent, “exercise” the generator once a month
by operating it at approximately half the maximum rated output for two hours.
This “exercise” will help promote better starting, more reliable operation and
longer engine life. This procedure drives off moisture, relubricates the internal
engine parts and replaces the old stale fuel with a fresh supply. It also promotes
removing oxides from the electrical switches and contacts.

INVERTER/CONVERTER
ON/OFF
Switch

RC7 GS Remote

Use the inverter when shore power is not available and the generator
is not going to be used as the secondary AC power source option. To turn
the inverter on or off, momentarily depress the inverter ON/OFF button
on the RC7GS remote. This will supply silent AC power to most receptacles, the television and microwave. It is important to remember that use
of the inverter will greatly increase house battery power consumption.
Turn off the inverter when not in use to conserve house battery power.
The inverter is programmable with many features. The RC7GS
remote control is used to change or add features and set variable parameters. Inverter remote may also be used to start and stop the generator.
Some of the features available are:
• Automatic generator start.
• Fully adjustable battery charge rates.
• Adjustable fuel gauge cut-out.
• Adjustable charging curves for different battery types.
• Adjustable power sharing.
• Meters Menu.

The remote control liquid crystal display (LCD) and light emitting diode
(LED) lights are used for operation status conditions. The LED lights give
inverter status, charge status, battery condition and error indications at a glance.
The LCD screen displays charging cycle status, various meter readings, automatic generator operation status, programming field and error messages. The
inverter ON/OFF button turns the inverter on or off. This button can be used to
start or stop the generator. The up or down arrows are used to scroll up or down
through the operations field or meters field. The up arrow is used to toggle
between operations and meter fields. Pressing the up and down arrows simultaneously accesses the programming field. The settings button is used to set or
scroll through a particular programming field.

NOTE: The main switch on the inverter is to remain ON.
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The inverter can be set-up for stand-by power operation. If AC input is
discontinued to the motorhome, the inverter will automatically provide AC
power. When AC power is resumed, the inverter will automatically return to
“stand-by” mode. The stand-by mode is activated by momentarily pressing
the “on/off” inverter remote button while the motorhome is plugged into
shore power or operating from the generator. Stand-by mode is indicated by
the inverter status light blinking. Battery charging is not affected by stand-by
operation.

Stand-by Operation

NOTE: Remember to disable stand-by operation when not
in use. House battery power may be accidently consumed.
It may run down the house batteries.
Whether hooked to shore power or operatBattery Charging with the Inverter
ing from the generator, the internal battery
charger of the inverter will automatically
charge the batteries when AC power is
supplied to the input terminals of the inverter.
The time it takes to charge the batteries to a
full state of charge varies greatly. It can take
several hours or even days depending on the
inverter set-up parameters and actual state of
charge of the batteries. The inverter uses a
three stage charging cycle. The first stage is
“bulk” charge. The bulk charge will bring the
DC voltage up high, initially between
14.2-14.6 Volts. Actual bulk charge voltage depends on which battery type
has been selected in the programming menu. The bulk charge cycle is controlled by voltage and current. The length of time the inverter is in the bulk
charge cycle will vary with the state of charge of the batteries. The second
stage is the “absorb” cycle. The battery voltage in the absorb cycle is the
same as the bulk charge cycle between 14.2-14.6 Volts. The length of the
absorb cycle is a timed event determined by the inverter. The final charging
stage is the “float” charge cycle. Approximately 80% of the charging cycle
has been completed by this time. The float charge voltage is generally around
13.3-13.7 Volts. The last 20% of the charge cycle typically takes the most
amount of time.
NOTE: The inverter will charge the batteries with AC power
applied regardless of remote status.

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Battery Temperature
Sensor

The inverter uses a battery temperature sensor to adjust charge voltage.
When the battery temperature rises the BTS will send this information,
registering as counts, to the inverter to decrease charge voltage. Voltage
compensation with temperature variation is necessary to keep charge voltage at optimum figures. The BTS should be adhered to a house battery. If
the BTS is unplugged, the inverter default setting of 77º F/25º C is used as
the charge temperature reference point.

Battery Temperature Sensor.

Pass-through
AC Power

Incorporated in the inverter is a double pole “pass-through” relay which
trips when AC power is supplied to the input terminals. This will transfer AC
power through the inverter to a sub panel supplying AC power to outlets and
appliances. When AC power is supplied to the inverter, the internal battery
charger will “ramp up” battery charging voltage. A 20 second time delay allows
charge stabilization before pass through AC power is supplied to the sub panel.

Operating Display

This field is a general overview of system status. This is the primary screen
of the RC7 remote. This field area includes: Main menu display.
• Waiting for AC: System inactive waiting
for AC power to be supplied.
• Inverting: Unit is inverting.
• Charging Cycle Status: Bulk, Absorb or
Float mode.
• Battery State of Charge: Based on the Fuel
Gauge Cutout setting. It may be displayed in
percentages or as a fuel gauge.
• Time Left To Run: This evaluates the
battery reserve capacity at current operating
load. It is based on the Fuel Gauge Cutout
and Battery Bank Capacity settings.
• Time Left To Charge: Estimated time left to
charge batteries to full state of charge. This
is based on Fuel Gauge Cutout and Battery
Bank Capacity settings with current battery
voltage.
• Generator Start/Stop: Use inverter ON/OFF
button to remotely start the generator or to
over- ride automatic generator start feature
for manual operation. This feature is
available to use without altering automatic
generator start programming.

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This is an alternate field of main system status. To access the various
meters available, depress the UP arrow button and hold for five seconds. The
RC7 GS remote will beep. Release the button. The Avg Shunt Amps will be
displayed. This field area includes:

Meter Menu

Avg Shunt Amps: This measures the DC current either charging
or discharging. Most of the house DC current usage is monitored by the inverter.
Battery Voltage: This monitors the house battery voltage.
Inv/Chg Current: This measures the AC current usage when
the inverter is charging.
Inverter Output VAC: This monitors the AC output voltage
while the unit is inverting.
AC Input Amps: The inverter uses a double pole pass through
relay. This measures current consumption through the Hot 1
terminal.
Battery Temperature: This monitors counts of the battery temperature sensor (BTS). Counts are measured impulses which
the inverter uses to calculate the battery case temperature. The
charging voltage is adjusted to optimum values.
Xformer Temp: This monitors the transformer temperature
which is measured in counts. Higher count readings are registering lower temperatures.
FET Temp: This monitors the Field Effect Transistor temperature which is measured in counts.
Est Batt Cap: This estimates the battery bank capacity in amp
hours (Ahrs). Charging and discharging on a cyclic basis will
give an approximate indication of the battery capacity in amp
hours. Observe the reading and multiply by eight to obtain an
approximate reserve capacity. This figure is only approximate
and will change with cyclic use.

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Programming
the RC 7 GS

To enter programming mode:
• Press and hold the Set-Up buttons (up and down arrows) for
five seconds. The RC7 GS remote will beep.
• Release the buttons. The programming mode has been entered
when the Search Sense is displayed.
• Use the Menu buttons (up and down arrows) to scroll though
available field settings.
• Use the Settings button (arrow pointing to right) to scroll
through available settings for selected field.
To exit the programming mode:
• Allow 20 seconds to elapse from the time the last key is
pressed. Program changes are then accepted by the inverter in
non-volatile memory.
• Momentarily pressing the set-up buttons (up and down arrows)
exits the programming menu. Program changes are automatically saved in non-volatile memory.
• The inverter is now ready to use. “Waiting for AC” will be displayed or if any program changes were made with AC applied,
one of the three stages of the charge cycle will be displayed.
NOTE: All electric coaches use two remotes and two inverters.
The remote located in the monitor panel is used to program the
master inverter. The second remote displays only selected menu
items.
NOTE: Non-volatile memory is a permanent programming
change accepted by the inverter. Turning the main battery disconnect switches off does not affect programming changes.
Only the inverter clock time and automatic generator start/stop
programming will be erased.

Adjustable Field
Settings

Search Sense:
The inverter searches for an AC load. For example: While inverting, AC
loads of various amperage may be applied. These loads may range from a
few watts to several amps. Search Sense is the cut-in point which the inverter will exit the “sleep mode” and start inverting at a standard output voltage.
The Defeat setting allows the inverter to be at a constant standard output
voltage. When changing the Search Sense value, AC loads must be evaluated
for proper inverter operation.
Auto LBCO:
The Automatic Low Battery Cut-off may be turned on or off. These settings allow the inverter to use available DC voltage to a set value while
inverting. Turning the LBCO ON stops the inverter when the battery voltage
drops to 10.5 Volts DC. Turning the LBCO OFF stops the inverter when the
battery voltage drops to 8.5 Volts DC. This leaves the batteries discharged,
but not completely dead.

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Battery Capacity:
The battery bank capacity is adjustable in Ahrs (amp hours). These settings change charging curves and the length of time of the charging cycles.
The range is from 125 Ahrs to 1,000 Ahrs. Select the closest Amp Hour rating for the house battery bank capacity. The auto setting will “learn” the battery bank size by user characteristics. For example: Discharging and recharging the batteries on a cyclic basis. The inverter takes several charging cycles
to “learn” an individual battery bank size. When the main battery disconnects
have been tuned off, the “learning” curve is erased.
Battery Type:
Many types of batteries with different chemical compositions are available. Different chemical types require different charging characteristics at
different voltages. Selection of available battery types are:
• AGM (absorb glass matte) • Gel Cell • Liquid Lead Acid
Charge Rate:
Charge rate is adjustable from 10 to 100%. This feature may be used in
many different ways. Selecting a lower percentage charge rate lowers the
inverter AC battery charger’s current consumption. It will take longer to
charge batteries but will leave user a few extra AC amps when operating
from a limited AC power source.
Shore Power Amps:
This is a load shedding feature of the battery charger in the inverter. For
example: Shore Power Amps set to 30 amps will decrease the AC current
available for the internal battery charger’s use, as pass through AC current
value approaches 30 amps. Lowering shore power amps will limit the available AC current for the internal battery charger’s use. This is adjustable from
5 to 30 amps, in 5 amp increments.
RC7 GS Setup:
This option allows the user to select the desired screen display. The Last
Key will leave the menu active with the last status viewed on the display.
The Rolling Display will continue to scroll through the active menu status
display. Power Saver allows the display to “sleep” after viewing the status.
Touch any key to “awaken” the RC7GS remote, then press the desired key.
LCD Contrast:
This changes the display screen contrast. Six settings are available.
Lighter contrast settings may leave the screen difficult to see in a bright
atmosphere.

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External Shunt:
The inverter monitors both AC and DC current values, whether charging or
discharging (figures are approximate), by using internal or external shunts. A
shunt monitors partial current consumption, allowing the majority of current to
pass on heavier conductors. Programming shunt selection affects which shunt
the inverter is using to monitor DC current values. Single inverter systems use
their internal shunt to monitor system DC current values. When programming
single inverter systems select External Shunt None. Dual inverter systems use
an external shunt to monitor system current values. When programming the
shunt selection of a dual inverter system, the master inverter is programmed by
the remote installed in the monitor panel. The master inverter will be programmed as External Shunt This Inverter. The slave inverter will be programmed as External Shunt Other Inverter.
Fuel Gauge Cutout:
Battery chemistries and types have different static voltage readings at
different states of charge. The battery voltage may be used to determine an
approximate state of charge for that battery type and chemistry. The Fuel Gauge
Cutout voltage is a reference point the inverter uses to determine a battery with
no reserve capacity amp hours remaining. Changing the value of the Fuel
Gauge Cutout will affect the fuel meter, automatic generator start and stop
points if set by SOC (state of charge) and time left to run or charge. The Fuel
Gauge will read 0 when and the Fuel Gauge Cutout program voltage reaches
the 50% SOC battery voltage.

NOTE: The remaining field items are used to program the
Automatic Generator Start parameters.

Automatic
Generator Start

The house batteries operate most of the interior lighting and most
appliances. As the house battery power is consumed the reserve battery capacity
diminishes. The inverter can be programmed to automatically start and stop the
generator to keep up with the drain on the house batteries. All field reference
points are house battery indications or conditions. A wide field of parameters
may be chosen for the generator start and stop points. These points may be set
in three categories:
1. House battery voltage.
2. State of charge (SOC). (The Fuel Gauge Cut-out affects SOC.)
3. Absorb or Float point of the charge cycle.
For example: The inverter can be programmed to start the generator when
house battery voltage falls to 11.4 Volts. As the battery voltage rises, the
inverter can be programmed to stop the generator when the house battery

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voltage obtains a percentage of state of charge (SOC). When selecting the
field reference points make sure that the start and stop points are spread
apart.
It is possible to set parameters too close, causing short cycling of the
generator. The menu will display the status of the generator while pending
generator start. The generator must be operating correctly for proper automatic generator start and stop operation.

NOTE: If the generator is started manually from any
remote switch other than the RC7 GS remote while
automatic generator start feature is enabled, the generator
will shut down due to field parameter settings.
To override the automatic generator operation so that the generator may
be operated manually, use the RC7 GS remote Inverter button to start or stop
the generator. This is done using the UP or DOWN arrows while in the main
menu until Generator Start/Stop: Press (on/off) is displayed. The display will
inform the user of the generator’s status. The generator will need to be manually stopped.
To enable the automatic generator operation, the programming mode must
be entered. Before any field reference points can be established, the clock
must first be set. The clock set field is the last item in the programming
menu.
Clock Set:
The clock is a 24 hour clock. If the display reads 00:01, it is 12:01 a.m.
If the clock reads 13:00, it is 1:00 p.m. The hours and minutes will flash,
alternating every eight seconds. Use the Settings button to advance hours or
minutes. The clock time and the generator start/stop programming will
be erased whenever the main battery disconnects are turned off.
Generator Start:
Selecting a state of charge (SOC) generator start point is affected by the
Fuel Gauge Cutout voltage setting. SOC start points are between 40-60 percent, or the generator may be programmed to start at a specified voltage. The
manual start disables the automatic start.
Generator Stop:
Selecting a state of charge generator stop point is affected by the Fuel
Gauge Cutout voltage setting. SOC stop points are between 90-99 percent, or
the generator may be programmed to stop at the Absorb or Float point of
charge cycle. The manual off disables the automatic stop.

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Begin Generator Quiet Time or End Generator Quiet Time:
The automatic generator start feature may be programmed to operate only at
certain times in the 24 hour clock period. Example: The user wants the automatic generator to start operation at 10:00 a.m. and stop operation at 7:00 p.m.
End Generator Quiet Time:
This is the time which the automatic generator operation is to begin. Using
the example time above, the 24 hour clock would be set to 10:00 hrs.
Begin Generator Quiet Time:
This is the time which the automatic generator operation is set to stop. Using
the example time above, as a reference, the 24 clock would be set to
19:00 hrs.

NOTE: If the generator started from the automatic start program and has not reached the automatic stop set point when
quiet time begins, the generator will stop and “Gen Quiet
Fault” will be displayed.
Select Generator:
The inverter has the capability to operate more than one generator
manufacturer type. The selections are:
• Onan Quiet Diesel (Type used in Monaco Coach).
• Power Tech, two and three wire.
• Other 30-80 (reserved for future).
To disable the automatic generator operation, use one of the following methods:
• Set Generator Start and Generator Stop points back to manual
ON/OFF positions.
• Switch off the house and chassis main battery disconnects to erase the
clock time and generator start/stop programming.

Equalize Charging

8 • 2 0 4

Batteries can sulfate over time. When this occurs some of the sulfuric acid
has adhered to the lead plates of the battery and cannot enter the electrolyte
solution though normal battery charging. A battery with a low concentration of
acid in the electrolyte will effect the battery’s performance. Sulfation can occur
when a battery is stored in a discharged condition or when a battery is continually cycled below a 50% state of charge. An indication a battery has sulfated is
when the inverter is in float charge and the hydrometer reading has stabilized
below a full state of charge (approximately 1260). An equalize charge cycle
may promote the acid to leave the lead plate and enter the electrolyte solution.
This is done by charging the battery at a slightly higher than normal voltage for
a short duration. The equalization cycle will charge the batteries at approximately 15.5 volts for three hours. To maximize the results from an equalize
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charge initiate the equalize cycle after the batteries have entered float charge. Only liquid
lead acid or absorb glass matte (AGM) type batteries should be equalize charged. Other
battery types can be damaged if equalize charged. Monitor the electrolyte solution closely when equalizing a liquid lead acid battery. A batteries “healthy” cell(s) can be damaged if overcharged. High DC charge voltages can also damage voltage sensitive electronic equipment. Several precautions should be used when performing an equalize
charge:
• Only equalize charge batteries with the motorhome in a well ventilated
area, preferably outdoors. Liquid lead acid batteries produce explosive
hydrogen gas when charging. Extinguish all flames and other sources of
ignition.
• Secure the battery compartment door in the open position. Extend battery
trays to the full open position when equalize charging.
• Remove the liquid lead acid battery caps during the equalize charge cycle.
AGM battery caps are not removable and may void the battery’s warranty
if removed.
• A liquid lead acid battery will consume water at an equalize charge voltage. Fill battery cells with distilled water before beginning an equalize
charge cycle. Do not overfill the battery cells. Overfilled battery cells will
spatter excess electrolyte.
• Protect all painted surfaces from any electrolyte solution which may spatter during equalize charging. If the electrolyte solution spatters on the
exterior painted surface rinse immediately using large quantities of water.
• Turn OFF the battery cut-off switch located at the entry door.
• Remove the fuses from the solar panel charge leads.
• Observing the polarity, disconnect the 12 Volt DC supply from the refrigerator. Access supply leads through the outside refrigerator compartment.
Tape the positive lead to prevent a short circuit.
• Mark the specific location then disconnect the wires from the battery
maintainer.
• Avoid operating any electrical equipment while in the equalize charge
cycle.
To Equalize Charge:
• Press and hold the Settings button on the remote (arrow pointing right) for
six seconds. Charge light will flash rapidly and System Status: Equalize
will appear on the screen. The inverter will run the equalize charge
cycle for three hours.
To Exit Equalize Charge:
• The equalize charge cycle may be discontinued at any time during the
charge cycle. Press and hold the settings button for six seconds. The
inverter will display System Status: Absorb for thirty seconds then
switch to float charge.
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• Allow the batteries to cool for approximately three hours. Check
the electrolyte solution with a hydrometer. Avoid overcharging
the battery resulting in damage to the healthy cells.
• Add distilled water if necessary. Install battery caps. Use large
quantities of fresh water to rinse the entire battery compartment
and surrounding area.
• Install fuses to solar panel charge leads.
• Observing polarity, hook the 12 Volt DC supply leads to the back
of the refrigerator. Do not reverse polarity. Damage to the refrigerator circuit board can result.
• Hook up the battery maintainer. Be sure the wires are connected
to the correct location.
CAUTION: Never equalize charge a frozen battery.
WARNING: Liquid lead acid batteries produce highly explosive
hydrogen gas when being charged. Extinguish all flames and other
sources of ignition. Never smoke around batteries. Danger of
explosion, fire, property damage, serious personal injury or death
can result!

Re-booting the
Inverter

The remote is used to program or turn on or off the inverter. The RC7 GS
remote is a display only. All the programming information is retained in the
inverter. If the inverter exhibits unusual symptoms or behavior, such as not
responding to commands or displaying erroneous error conditions, “rebooting” the inverter may alleviate these symptoms.
To re-boot the inverter:
1. Remove AC power from the inverter by disconnecting shore power
and/or shutting the generator off.
2. Turn the main switch on the inverter to the OFF position.
3. Switch house and chassis main battery disconnects to the OFF position.
4. Wait 30 seconds, this allows time for capacitors to discharge.
5. Switch house and chassis main battery disconnects to the ON position.
6. Turn the main switch on the inverter to the ON position.
7. Connect the shore power cord or start the generator.

DISTRIBUTION
PANEL HOUSE 110
AC Panel

8 • 2 0 6

The AC distribution panel is located in the bedroom. The main AC panel 120
Volt circuit breakers receive power from the transfer switch, which is powered
by either shore power or the on board generator. Power is introduced into the
panel to the 50 amp MAIN breaker first, followed by power being fed to the
individual branch circuit breakers. The panel label describes the breaker layout
and the item, outlet or appliance to which they pertain.
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On/IOn/I

On/I

On/I

On/I

On/I

On/I

OFF/O

OFF/O

FRONT A/C

INVERTER
(L1)

MAIN

SMART ENERGY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
MODEL 700
50 AMP SERVICE

OFF/O

4L54
by

Intelllitec

MADE IN THE U.S.A.

ENCLOSED ENERGY MANAGEMENT EQUIPMENT

On/IOn/I

OFF/O

WASH/DRY

20

OFF/O

REAR A/C

30

OFF/O

WTR/HRT - AQUA HOT

50

OFF/O

INVERTER
(L2)

50

OFF/O

REFRIGERATOR

BLOCK HEATER
(GFI)

30
OFF/O

C

UL

US
LISTED

WARNING: This panel contains high voltage which can
cause serious injury or death. Before beginning any work
or testing procedures involving the electric panels, or any
of the branch circuits, be sure the motorhome is
unplugged from shore power, the generator is not running
and the inverter is in the OFF position. Certain testing
procedures can require the AC power to be on. Only qualified personnel or personnel with electrical backgrounds
should attempt any testing procedures.
Branch circuit breakers supply AC power to the different items or
“loads.” An electrical load is any item or device that will use current when
supplied with an electromotive force. Should a breaker “trip” from over
current use, or a short circuit condition, the load to which the breaker is
suppling the electromotive force should be reviewed or disconnected to
determine the cause of the trip. If no cause is found, or not readily apparent,
reset the breaker by toggling the breaker to the OFF position, then back to
ON. Should the breaker trip again after the load is reapplied it may indicate a
fault with that particular load. Do not continue to reset breaker until the
problem has been corrected diagnosed and corrected.

1
FRONT,
KITCHEN (GFI)

20

INVERTER (L2)

30

3

20

4

INVERTER (L1)

30

6

BATH, REAR (GFI)

20

7

LAMP TABLE
ARMREST, POWER 20
CURTAIN (OPT) (GFI)

8

MICROWAVE

2

ICEMAKER

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Circuit Breaker

Breaker current ratings are current set points in which the breaker is
designed to operate. The internal configuration of the circuit breaker is designed
to trip when excess current is drawn through the breaker. The trip action of the
circuit breaker can occur within milliseconds due to the speed at which electricity can travel. Breaker ratings are set to operate on a continuous load at 80% of
the breaker’s rated capacity. For example: A breaker with a 20 amp rating will
handle a continuous load of 16 amps. This designed set point is when an inductive load is applied, such as when an electric motor turns on. As the motor starts
to spin current consumption may momentarily exceed the rated capacity of the
breaker. As the electric motor comes up to operating speed the electric motor’s
current consumption will fall. The AC current load then falls back into the
breaker’s rated 80% set point. This electric principle should be kept in mind
when using anything other than 50 amp shore service and using appliances with
electric motors. When using outlets, care should be considered when applying
loads such as electric motors, heaters, coffee makers, toasters, hair dryer or
other large current consuming loads. If the current rating of a load is not known
it is usually stated on most electrical items. The rating will either be in amps or
watts. Current ratings stated on electrical items will change slightly with voltage fluctuations. As voltage increases, current consumption decreases. A voltage decreases, current consumption increases. This may explain why in some
instances items operated at borderline voltage to current tolerances may seem
fine in one location, but problematic in another.

NOTE: To calculate watts to amps, simply divide the watt
figure by the voltage of which the item operates from. For
example: The electrical item is rated at 1,370 watts. Divide
that by the operating voltage of 115 volts which equals 11.913
amps. Use this formula to calculate load to current supply
ratio.

ENERGY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
50 AMP
(OPTIONAL)

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The Energy Management System is easily identified by the remote display
panel located in the inside overhead compartment next to the entrance door.
The 50 Amp Smart EMS consists of two elements: the display panel and the
bedroom distribution panel. The display panel is mounted in the inside overhead compartment next to the entrance door. The distribution panel, located in
the bedroom, is a completely self-contained 120/240 Volt power distribution
and energy management system intended to be used in recreational vehicles. It
is housed in a sheet metal enclosure with removable front panel. It provides circuit protection for all the 120 VAC loads in the motorhome and a system of
energy management to minimize the over-loading and tripping of circuit breakers.

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Circuit Breakers: The distribution panel offers slots for eight single or
dual, standard 120 Volt circuit breakers. Two of these breakers, located in the
two center stab positions, must be a 50 Amp unit that act as a main input protection for each of the lines supplying the remainder of the branch breakers
(up to 12).
Energy Management: The 50 Amp Smart EMS automatically senses the
available power to the motorhome. It determines whether it is connected to a
120 VAC - 30 Amp shore power source, 50 Amp shore power source, or generator source. Depending upon available power, it controls the operation of 6
possible loads as indicated on distribution panel. These may be any type
load, but are typically heavier loads; those whose use can be “postponed”
until a time when current is available for their use. If the available power
source is 120 VAC - 30 Amp shore power it attempts to keep the total 120
Volt current draw to less than 30 Amps.
Operation: If 120 VAC is not available at the distribution panel, L1 or
L2 outputs, the system shuts itself off. This feature is intended to prevent the
system from drawing current from the +12 VDC battery supply when not in
operation.
When 120 VAC power is applied the system automatically powers up and
determines the nature of the power source.
If the generator is running 120 VAC will be present at the distribution
panel L1 and L2 inputs. In this mode the energy management feature is disabled and all control relay contacts are closed, energizing all of the controlled loads. The control Module sends a signal to the display panel causing
the load meter to display actual load current, the GEN SET service indicator
to light and all power status indicators to light.
If 120 VAC is present at the distribution panel L1 and L2 inputs the system will assume that 120 VAC, 30 Amp shore power is available and the
energy management feature will be enabled. If only 20 Amp service is
available the user must select the 20 AMP service mode by momentarily
pressing the 20/30 Amp select switch on the Control Panel. Initially, all
relay contacts are closed, and the total current is monitored. If the total current should exceed the service limit the system will turn off the first load in
the shedding table. As it turns the loads off it calculates the amount of current that was removed, which is the value for that load. This value is placed
in memory. If the current remains above the service limit the system will turn
off the next load in shedding table. Again, it calculates the amount of current
that was removed and places this value,which is the value of that load, in
memory. The system continues to turn off loads until the total current falls
below the service limit or all of the six controlled loads have been shed.
WINDSOR

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Through this process the system has “learned” the amount of current that each
particular load draws. This feature compensates for the differences in current
draw over a range of line voltage and ambient temperature, by re-learning the
load each time it is turned off or “shed.”
The 50 Amp Smart EMS now wait until the total current is lower than the
service limit and enough current is available (as compared with the amount in
memory for the last load shed) before it will turn that load back on. This
assures that there is sufficient current to operate the load.

NOTE: There is a two minute minimum delay period after a
load is shed before the load will be turned on again to prevent air conditioners from turning on with a head pressure.
Three Hour Averaging: The RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry
Association) in conjunction with the NEC (National Electrical Council) have
established rules regarding the rating of electrical systems and the use of energy
management systems. One of these rules requires that, if any energy management system is used the average total load current for the system over a 3 hour
period be limited to 80% of the service rating. For that reason the 50 amp EMS
calculates the average running current for the system and, if it exceeds 80% of
the service rating, the EMS sheds loads to reduce the average current below that
limit.
For example, if a system operating under 120 VAC, 30 Amp service has
been running at the 30 Amp limit for three hours, the EMS will change its shedding threshold to 24 Amps and turn off loads until the 24 Amp limit is attained.
If the user selects the 20 Amp service mode this limit will translate to 16 Amps.
Because the EMS calculates a running 3 hour average, if the average load current drops below the limit the system will restore power to loads based on their
impact on the limit. If the system is in the averaging mode the decimal point at
the lower right corner of the load meter display on the display panel will illuminate.
Display Panel: The display panel is located in
the inside overhead compartment next to the entrance
door and connects to the distribution panel located in
the bedroom. Six power status LEDs indicate power
is applied to those loads. These LEDs are on when
the power is applied. The load meter has a two digit
display to indicate the amount of current actually
being drawn by all the appliances in the motorhome.
Four service type LEDs indicate the source for
120/240 VAC power. Three of these sources are
automatically detected and indicated by the EMS,
namely: Gen Set Service, 50 Amp Service and 30
Amp Service.
8 • 2 1 0

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The 20 Amp service mode is not automatically detected and the operator must manually select the 20 Amp mode when 20 Amp service is
available. The service select button allows the current threshold to be set to
either 30 Amps or 20 Amps to match the incoming service.

The 12 Volt house contains fuses (located in the bedroom overhead cabinet) that protect the electrical circuits. These fuses are the standard automotive type. When a fuse is “blown,” the wire in middle of the plastic case will
be burnt. A broken, bad or “blown” fuse must be replaced with a fuse of the
same rating and type. Use of a fuse with a different rating or type will defeat
the circuit protection provided by that fuse and could result in damage to the
motorhome’s electrical system.

COLOR
1 GRN
2 GRN
3 BLUE
4 BLK
5 GRY
6 YEL
7 VIO
8 RED
9 RED
10 BLU
11 ORG
12 BLUE
13 YEL
14 GRY
15 RED
16 RED

GA

AMP

CIRCUIT

14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
12
18
14
10
14

15
15
15
15
15
15
15
15
15
15
15
15
5
15
20
15

BDRM WALL/SHRT CLST
WARDDRB/BDRM CEILING
BATHROOM LTS
BATH/KITCHEN VENTS
FURN/FRNT AC/WTR HTR
DINETTE/RT OVHD/PRCH
KIT,REF,GAL,LTS
LIVING RM CEILING LTS
MONITOR PNL
LEFT OVHD/WALL LTS
BAY 12V RECEPT
FREEZER
DOORBELL
RADIO, NIGHT LTS (OPT)
WATER PUMP
PWR TOILET/AWNING (OPT)

The 12 Volt fuses, located in this distribution panel, service the interior
house lighting, ventilation fans and monitor panel. Should a fuse blow it will
be evident by the broken metal strip located in the center of the fuse.
Replacement fuses should be of the same amperage. If a higher rated fuse is
installed it can damage the wiring. Fuse current set points follow much of the
same electrical principle as the 120 Volt AC breakers. Using 12 Volt DC as
the electromotive force can make it more susceptible to outside influences,
such as corrosion from weathering or oxidation.
WINDSOR

DISTRIBUTION
PANEL - HOUSE
12 VOLT

Fuses

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AMPERAGE COLOR
1
BLACK
2
GRAY
3
VIOLET
4
PINK
5
GOLD
7.5
BROWN
10
RED
15
BLUE
20
YELLOW
25
CLEAR
30
GREEN

The large variety of applications this voltage is used for makes it common
for most of the recreational vehicle and automotive industries. The danger from
shocks with this voltage is minimized, but can still occur. A good example of
this is when a magnetic field is generated, then collapses when the power supply is turned off. The result is an electrical discharge that can reach tens of
thousands of volts for a short time period. Care should be used when working
with this voltage as current values can be quite high, as in the case of a battery
cables.

Warning: Shorting a battery cable to ground with a battery
at a reasonable state of charge can result in a fire or serious
personal injury from a burn.

ATO Fuse

Tools of the Trade

One of the most widely used tools used for testing a 12 Volt problem is the
test light. Many different types of test lights are available, such as a light bulb
with a probe and ground clip, to the more elaborate electronic ones that measure a wide scale of voltages and perform a variety of functions. A VOM or Volt
Ohm Meter is used to perform a multitude of tests. It is generally used when
exact values are needed for evaluation. These meters come in an analog or digital format. Either of these two testing tools may be used, depending upon personal preference. If a 12 Volt light is not working, the test light may be better
suited for this. In the event of a charging system problem, where exact voltage
values need to be obtained, the meter may be the tool of choice. In any situation
the testing tool is an invaluable piece of equipment when it comes to determining an electrical problem.

Know the Limits

Should it become necessary to use testing tools, take certain precautions and
consider three things. First, recognize when the problem is beyond your skill
level. Nothing will create more mayhem than being armed with tools and going
in an unknown direction. Good intentions may lead to major problems. The second item to keep in mind is if something will cause more grief by being dealt
with now, than if it were left alone and repaired by a professional at a more
convenient time. How many times have you said to yourself, “Oh this will only
take a few minutes,” only to find it is taking an entire day and you wished you
had not touched it? The third item to consider is whether or not the current situation may become potentially dangerous if left to be repaired at a more convenient time?

NOTE: Check all related fuses before assuming you have
encountered an electrical problem or situation. Spare fuses
should be kept on hand, and can be purchased from auto
parts stores. A fuse description label is on the distribution
panel cover.

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WARNING: If a fuse blows, replace the fuse with same
amperage rating and type. Installing higher amperage
fuses can damage the wiring or the item the fuse is
protecting, or may cause a fire. If the fuse repeatedly
blows after replacing it, do not continue to replace it. Have
the problem diagnosed and corrected by a qualified
technician.
Batteries come in different sizes, types, amp hours, voltages and
chemistries. There are nearly as many descriptions of battery types and how
they should be used, as there are people willing to offer advice on them.
Although it is not possible to cover batteries in their entirety, there are guidelines that can be followed to ensure that the batteries are well maintained.
The operation of the battery is based on a chemical reaction. The battery
is a container of lead plates, insulators and a solution of distilled water and
sulfuric acid. The solution, when mixed together, is known as “electrolyte.”
The 12 volt battery is actually six batteries in one case. When charged, each
cell has a voltage of 2.1 Volts. When six cells are hooked together this makes
a 12.6 Volt battery (fully charged).
Electrons are stored on the negative plates. When a load (eg. a light bulb)
is put between the positive and negative terminals, the electrons move from
the negative plate to the positive plate through the “load” and then back to
the ground terminal. At this time, the sulfuric acid leaves the water and
adheres onto the plates of the battery. The electrolyte solution keeps the electrons from flowing while the battery is in the “at rest” position.
Charging the battery moves the sulfuric acid back into solution with the
distilled water. A battery left in a low or discharged state will cause the acid
to “sulphate.” In attempting to recharge the battery, the acid has become
hardened and no longer will leave the plates and enter into the liquid solution
with the distilled water. The lowered acid to water ratio has a direct affect on
the battery’s ability to release the stored electrons (power output) and the
length of time it can perform (reserve capacity). Batteries left in a discharged
condition will readily freeze. This can crack the case allowing the solution to
spill, it can also warp the plates. The acid acts like an “antifreeze” for the
battery. This is why batteries should not be left or stored in a “discharged”
condition.

BATTERY HOW IT WORKS

Starting batteries are designed for high output cranking power, but not for
deep cycling like the house batteries are designed to do. Starting batteries
will not last long in deep cycle application. The way they are rated should
give a good indication of their intended use. “Cold Cranking Ampere” is a
measurement of amperage output that can be sustained for 30 seconds.
Starting batteries use thin plates to maximize the surface area of the battery.
This allows a very high starting current, but lets the plates warp when the
battery is deep cycled (discharged).

Starting Battery

WINDSOR

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Deep Cycle
Battery

Deep cycle batteries are best suited for use with 12 volt operated lights,
appliances and inverters. Deep cycle batteries are designed to have a majority
of their capacity used before being recharged. These are available in many sizes
and types, the most common is a non-sealed, liquid electrolyte battery. The nonsealed types have battery caps. The caps should be removed periodically to
check the level of electrolyte. When a cell is low, only distilled water should be
added. Water consumption will vary depending on many factors: how far the
batteries are depleted, how long the voltage is being applied to charge the batteries, how much voltage is used and how often this occurs.

NOTE: Tap water contains minerals which can alter battery
chemistry and ruin the battery. Use only distilled water when
refilling the battery.

Battery Maintenance

At a minimum, the battery electrolyte level should be checked at least once
a month. Check the level sooner if the battery is frequently used. The level
should be above the top of the plates, but not overfull. Most batteries have a
plastic cup or well. The electrolyte level should be approximately 3/8” below
the well to allow room for expansion while the battery is being charged. Overfilling the battery will allow the electrolyte solution to boil or gas out of the
battery cap. Remember to use only distilled water to refill the battery. A battery
with a low electrolyte level will boil the water out rapidly once the plates have
been exposed to air. This process may take only a matter of hours. If this has
happened the battery is more than likely damaged.
After checking the battery’s electrolyte levels it is also a good idea to check
the battery connections for tightness and corrosion. If any corrosion is found,
disconnect the cables (make sure to mark their locations) and carefully clean
them with a mild solution of baking soda and water. There are also aerosol
products available that will work. This will neutralize any acid that may be
present. Do not allow the solution to enter the battery as this will damage the
electrolyte balance. Use water to rinse the top of the battery and surrounding
area when done. Carefully hook the cables back to the battery. Coat the terminals with petroleum jelly or an anticorrosion grease.
The battery cable to battery terminal connections should be metal to metal.
Periodically, check the batteries for corrosion. Look for cracks and check the
vent plugs. Replace them if they are cracked or missing. Keep the top of the
batteries clean. The accumulation of electrolyte and dirt may permit small
amounts of current to flow between the terminals, which can drain the battery.

WARNING: Liquid lead acid batteries produce hydrogen gas
while being charged. This is highly explosive. Do not smoke
around batteries. Extinguish all flames in the area. The hydrogen gas may explode resulting in fire, personal injury, property damage or death.

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The engine (chassis) and domestic (house) batteries are located in
a curbside compartment. The slide-out battery trays are secured in
place by a locking mechanism at the front of the trays. To slide the
tray out, lift up on the handle and pull until the tray stops. To secure
the battery tray, push it back in until the tray latches.
The battery tray slides will occasionally need to be lubricated.
When performing maintenance to the batteries, clean the old lubricant
and dirt from the battery tray slide with solvent, brake cleaner or
equivalent. Do not allow any of the cleaning solution or battery acid
by-products to spatter onto the painted surfaces. Damage to the paint
surface will result. Lubricate all moving parts of the battery tray slide
with white lithium grease or Kwikee brand spray lubricant.

Battery Tray

NOTE: Driving without the tray secured can result in
damages.
CAUTION: Many types of petroleum based products or
battery by-products can damage the paint finish. Do not
allow these types of chemicals to get on the paint finish. If
the chemicals do get on the painted surfaces, immediately
rinse the surface using plenty of water with a mild automotive detergent.
The only way to test a battery’s electrolyte solution is with a hydrometer.
Many styles are available, from types with cylinder graduation (shown here)
to types with floating balls. Hydrometers can be purchased from most auto
parts stores. The hydrometer tests the battery’s electrolyte solution which is
measured in specific gravity. Distilled water has a specific assigned gravity
of 1,000. The hydrometer is calibrated to this mark. Pure sulfuric acid has a
specific gravity reading of 1,840. The acid is 1.84 times heavier than water.
The electrolyte solution is about 64% water to 36% acid (fully charged battery). Hydrometer’s with cylinder graduation are graphed and the exact state
of specific gravity can be determined.
Temperature and recent battery activity (charging or discharging) affect
the hydrometer readings. It is best to check the battery when it has been “at
rest” for at least three hours, although readings taken at other times will give
a “ball park” figure. When using the hydrometer, draw the electrolyte solution up into the tube. Allow the hydrometer to attain the same temperature as
the electrolyte solution. Note the reading for that cell. Complete the same test
for the rest of the cells on that battery bank.
The hydrometer is calibrated at 80° F. Temperature affects the hydrometer
readings. The higher the electrolyte temperature, the higher the specific gravity reading. The lower the temperature, the lower the specific gravity reading
will be. Add or subtract four points for each 10° variance from the 80° F
WINDSOR

Testing the Battery

Hydrometer
(Cylinder
Type)

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chart. Readings between cells should not vary more than 50 points.
If one cell in a particular battery bank being tested is at a 50% state of
charge while the others are indicating a full charge, charge only that battery
to see if the low cell will come up. At the same time, do not over charge the
“healthy” cells.
If the low cell does not come up after charging, this battery can damage
the rest of the battery bank and should be replaced. An accurate digital volt
meter + - .5% will also give an indicator of the battery’s state of charge.
Another test that can be performed is to place a specific load on the battery for a predetermined length of time equal to that particular battery’s rating. This machine is usually an adjustable carbon pile that can vary the load
being applied to the battery(s) while monitoring voltage to see if they will
perform to their specific rated capacities

NOTE: See the chart for temperature compensation.
Liquid levels should be even between the cells of the battery being tested as it will affect the accuracy of the test.
WARNING: Sulfuric acid in the batteries can cause severe
injury or death. Sulfuric acid can cause permanent damage to eyes, burn skin and eat holes in clothing. Always
wear splash-proof safety goggles when working around the
battery. If the battery electrolyte is splashed in the eyes or
on skin, immediately flush the affected area for 15 minutes
with large quantities of clean water. In case of eye contact,
seek immediate medical aid. Never add acid to a battery
once the battery has been placed in service. Doing so may
result in hazardous splattering of electrolyte.

Seven Reasons Why
Batteries Fail

8 • 2 1 6

1. Physical Condition:
Active material flakes off the plates and falls to the bottom of the cell.
This is normal, but sediment accumulation under the plates can short out a cell.
The plate separators fail to insulate positive and negative plates in a cell and the
cell becomes shorted, ruining the battery.
2. Insufficient Electrolyte:
This allows exposed portions of the plates to sulfate rapidly. This reduces
the battery’s ability to accept a charge and the battery capacity is reduced.
Accelerated erosion of the lower portions of the plates occur from higher than
normal acid content due to water loss. Only the water evaporates, not the acid.
The battery also has a higher internal resistance when low on water. Add only
distilled water. Fill each cell to the bottom of the vent well when the battery is
warm. Filling a very cold battery with water to the bottom of the vent well will
cause overspill when the battery warms up and the plates expand. A Battery
Formula For Failure: the battery has a higher internal resistance when low on
water, therefore: high resistance = more heat = shorter battery life!
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3. Sulfation:
When a battery remains discharged for too long the accumulated lead sulfate in the plate material solidifies and cannot reenter the electrolyte. When a
battery is left in a discharged state the lead sulphate will crystallize. Charging
the battery does not move the crystallized lead sulphate off the battery plate.
The battery is damaged.
4. Overheating:
The chemical reaction inside of the battery is increased when the battery
temperature rises above 125º F. This increases the corrosion of the plates and
reduces the battery life. When overheated, the battery plates tend to buckle and
destroy the structural integrity of the battery.
5. Freezing:
When the electrolyte freezes, ice formed dislodges the active material
from the plates. The battery case may crack and the electrolyte will leak out
when thawed. It is especially important to keep a battery at full charge in cold
weather to prevent freezing. The high specific gravity of a fully charged battery does not freeze as easily. Never attempt to charge a frozen battery. Warm
it up first.
6. Corrosion:
Corrosion from spilled or splashed electrolyte form deposits that can
conduct electricity and can cause battery drain. Clean off all corrosion, especially around the battery terminals and on the top of the battery. Prevent
accumulation by coating the terminals and the exposed metal cable connectors
with high temperature grease.
7. Overcharging:
Overcharging rapidly converts water to gas and decreases the electrolyte’s water content as the water evaporates. The electrolyte level drops and
becomes more acid in content. This subjects the plates to a higher concentration of sulfuric acid and results in early battery failure.

NOTE: Any time you add more than one or two ounces
of distilled water per-cell per-thousand miles, check the
motorhome charging system for overcharging. Prolonged
overcharging generates excessive heat inside the battery,
which buckles the plates and destroys the battery. It is a fact
that over 50% of battery failures are caused by overcharging.
Why does the voltage on a discharged battery measure the same as a fully
charged battery until the loads are applied? The simple answer to this might go
as follows: A battery creates electrical power by converting energy from a
chemical reaction into electrical energy. As this reaction slows down, the battery voltage will drop. In a lead acid battery the electrolyte conductivity (how
well electrical current can flow through it) changes. The same current may be
available but the rate of the reaction decreases, causing a voltage drop.
WINDSOR

Battery Voltage &
Current

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Another way of looking at this is to use the analogy of a water pump
(a battery is like an electric pump). The pressure in PSI (pounds per square
inch) that a pump delivers is like a battery’s voltage. The volume of water in
GPM (gallons per minute) is like the electrical current. Let’s look at a 12 PSI
pump with no loads (the pump is running but the outflow valve is turned off).
The pump will run and the internal pressure of the pump will build up to some
point higher than 12 PSI. When the valve is opened and the water is free to
flow into the loads, the pressure will drop to the rated output pressure of 12
PSI, but only if the load is not too big. If the pump is designed to maintain 12
PSI at 15 GPM, and a load demanding 20 GPM is connected, the pump will not
be able to keep up and the pressure will get sucked down to a lower PSI. If the
load is reduced or removed, the pump will catch up and return to its rated 12
PSI pressure. If the pump has an infinite source of water, such as a lake or the
water utility (this is like the grid, no battery), the pump will never run out of
pressure. If the pump never runs out of pressure, and is operated at or below 15
GPM level, it will hold 12 PSI. However, a pump that is connected to a water
tank with a finite capacity will start to lose the ability to hold pressure as the
level of water in the tank drops. Think of siphoning water from a bucket. As the
level of the water drops, the volume of water exiting the siphon slows down.
When the tank is full it is capable of feeding more “pressure” to the pump
inlet due to gravity, and the pump always has enough water available to
maintain its rated pressure and volume. However, if the water tank gets low,
the pump will not have enough water volume coming in to maintain 12 PSI at
15 GPM. If the loads are removed from the pump by closing the valve on the
outflow, even with low pressure in the tank the pump will eventually pressure
up to 12 PSI. It will just take it longer to get there. When the valve is opened
the pump will sustain 12 PSI for a brief period, but since the tank is no longer
feeding the pump as fast as needed the pressure will eventually drop. This analogy can be restated by replacing the pump with a battery, pressure with voltage,
volume with amps, outflow valve with a switch, water with electricity and the
water tank with the battery electrolyte.
The level of the tank could be thought of as the rate of the reaction occurring in the electrolyte. When the battery is fully charged the electrolyte has an
excess of reactions taking place to feed the battery terminals. This tapers off
with time as the electrolyte is spent so maintaining voltage becomes possible.
With no loads the discharged electrolyte will be capable of producing close to
the rated voltage, but only after a period of time has elapsed for enough of a
reaction to take place to bring the voltage back up. Hopefully, this explanation
will make clarify why a battery measured at rest can indicate close to its rated
voltage but will not run a load.

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Calculating Run Times: Calculating run time figures when operating 120 Battery Charge Time
Volt AC electrical items with an inverter can be exponential. This is due to bat- & Consumption Rate
tery characteristics. Flow characteristics of electrons vary with different battery
types and chemical compositions. Deep cycle batteries are generally designed
to slowly release a majority of their charge capacity. Deep cycle batteries are
rated in amp hours (Ahrs) with the discharge occurring over an extended period of time before the battery is charged. Engine starting batteries are designed
to quickly release large amounts of current for short durations, without depleting battery reserves. Commercial type batteries bridge the gap of deep cycle
and engine batteries. Commercial batteries release medium amounts of current
over a longer period of time, but they are not designed to cycle their charge
capacity.
The working range of a deep cycle battery is between 50 and 100% state of
charge (SOC). Deep cycle batteries should not be cycled below 50% state of
charge. Discharging a deep cycle battery below 50% state of charge shortens
the life of the battery. Deep cycle batteries use an amp hour rating which is
usually calculated over a 20 hour discharge interval. Example: A deep cycle
battery with a rated capacity of 100 Ahrs. is designed to release current at the
rate of five amps per hour. Multiply a 5 amp load over a 20 hour discharge
period equals the rated 100 Ahr. capacity. These discharge figures are calculated with the battery starting at 100% state of charge with the battery at 80º
Fahrenheit when the discharge cycle begins. However, increasing the discharge
load applied to the battery from five amps to ten amps on a 100 Ahr battery
does not yield 10 hours of discharge time. This is due to the internal reactions
which occur when a battery is discharging. Actual discharge time for a 10 amp
load may be closer to eight hours of discharge time. Increasing the load applied
to the battery to 20 amps will not yield five hours discharge time but may be
less than three hours. It might be understood as a point of diminishing return.
Calculating applied loads to an inverter to approximate run time from the
battery amp hours available is not an equal trade up when voltage is inverted
and amperage is calculated. When the inverter is used to operate an AC load, it
uses approximately ten times the DC current needed from the battery when
inverting 12 Volts to operate the 120 Volt item. There is also a small efficiency
loss of about 10% when inverting. For example: When using the inverter to
operate an AC electrical item, which has a current draw rating of 2 amps, the
inverter will use over 20 amps DC power from the batteries.
Determining Current Consumption: First determine the amount of current used by an AC item. For example: The television is rated at 200 watts at
120 Volts. Calculate watts to amps. Divide 200 watts by the operating voltage
of 120, this equals 1.6 amps. Multiply 1.6 amps AC current by a factor of ten
the inverter will use, this equals 16 amps DC battery current. Add the revised
10% efficiency loss figure, this calculates to a total of 17.6 amps DC. If the
battery bank capacity is rated at 500 Ahrs., actual elapsed time to the suggested
WINDSOR

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50% state of charge would net viewing time for the television at approximately
13 hours in ideal conditions.
The run time figure will vary greatly with the actual state of charge of
the battery bank when the discharge process begins. Ambient temperature, combined with other working loads such as lights and parasitic loads applied to batteries, affect run times. Calculating the exact run time is not precise due to all
the variables and equations involved; however, an approximate time
figure can be obtained. Proper battery maintenance and charge cycles affect battery performance. Observe the battery condition with hydrometer and
voltage readings. Use only distilled water when filling batteries. To achieve the
highest quality of battery performance and longevity, keep batteries in their
proper operating range.

Battery Specifications
STATE OF VS SPECIFIC
CHARGE
GRAVITY
100%
75%
50%
25%
Discharged

1.265
1.225
1.190
1.155
1.120

STATE OF VS. OPEN CIRCUIT
CHARGE
VOLTAGE
100%
75%
50%
25%
Discharged

8 • 2 2 0

12.66v
12.45v
12.24v
12.06v
11.89v

Ah
(20hr)

CCA

Chassis
12 Volt Chassis
31P-MHD (2 each)

RC
(25A)min
.

240

950

450

6 Volt Domestic
U2200 (4 each)

225

**

447

255

**

All Electric
Battery
Specifications
GPL-8D (5 each)

**Battery connections are made in a Series/Parallel connection.
Domestic batteries are not rated in Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

WINDSOR

25A
15A
8A
5A

- 461
- 801
- 1627
- 3130

Electrical Systems - House

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The motorhome comes pre-wired to accept this optional solar battery
charging system. The system consists of one 85 watt solar panel with mounts,
a combiner box (that allows you to easily expand the system) and a charge
controller that can handle up to four 85 watt solar panels.

SOLAR PANEL
(OPTIONAL)

The Solar Panel:
The Solar Panel is a Solec 85 watt panel that is capable of
delivering about 5 amps of charge per hour, per panel, in full
sunlight (usually between 9:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m.). Extensive
testing has shown that one 85 watt solar panel delivers enough
power to offset normal day to day drain on
batteries, caused by various parasitic electrical loads. These parasitic loads are usually associated with transmission memories,
alarm systems, natural self-discharge of batteries and other like
items. This means that the first 85 watt solar panel is only intended to cover these parasitic loads. Adding a second, third or fourth
solar panel (depending upon needs and electrical consumption)
can replace what is draw out of the batteries from the operation
of lights, water pumps, inverters etc., while dry-camping.

WARNING: The Solar Panel needs to be cleaned monthly.
The Solar Panel may need to be cleaned more frequently if
weather conditions permit.
The Combiner Box:
The Combiner Box is located on the side of the refrigerator vent on the
roof. It has four standard ½” knock outs to allow you to add any extra solar
panels you may desire to meet your dry-camping needs.
The Charge Controller:
The Charge Controller was built specifically to meet the needs of Monaco
motorhomes. The faceplate has a digital readout that will display one of three
readings by means of a slider switch: House Battery Voltage, Amps Charge or
Engine Battery Voltage.
There are also three indicator lights for at a glance status: Charging (which
means the system is actively charging), Charged (which means the batteries
have reached 14.2 Volts) and Over Temp (which means that the circuit board
has reached a high temperature and has been turned off until it cools down,
then it will turn back on automatically).
The faceplate of the controller is used as a heat sink for the electronics
attached to it, and will become warm to the touch especially when it is processing higher amperage. This is normal and there is no reason to be concerned. Automatic thermal shutdown (indicated by the Overtemp light) will be
activated if it gets too warm.
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Charge Controller
Features

The RV-30 Charge Controller has many unique features which are listed
and described below:
1. Battery Charging - The above mentioned parasitic loads affect both the
House and Engine batteries. The controller automatically charges both
the House and Engine batteries at the same time to deal with this issue.
2. Pulse Width Modulation - This charging strategy has been found by the
Sandi National Laboratories to maintain the highest state of charge with
the least amount of battery water consumption. In effect, it delivers all
the available charging amperage until the batteries reach 14.2 Volts (this
stage is called bulk charging) and then it begins to taper off amperage
(absorption stage) until it is reduced to all that is needed to simply hold
the battery at 14.2 Volts (Float Stage).
3. Temperature Compensation - The gassing threshold of the batteries is
reached at around 14.1 to 14.4 Volts at room temperature (25º C). If the
temperature of the batteries is hotter than 25º C, the gassing threshold is
reached at a lower voltage. If the temperature of the batteries is colder
than 25º C, the gassing threshold is reached at a higher voltage. This
feature protects your batteries from excess water loss and/or plate
sulfation by automatically compensating for these temperature changes
and adjusting the charging voltage accordingly.
4. Automatic Equalization - This feature is activated once per day to
extend the life of your batteries by allowing the weaker cells a chance to
catch up with the stronger cells. This assures that all cells will be at an
equal state of charge. The first time domestic batteries reach 14.2 Volts
during the day, a delay timer is activated that allows a short duration
period (20 to 30 minutes) at a slightly higher voltage (14.5 to 14.7 Volts)
and then falls back to the 14.2 Volt setting for the remainder of the day.

Solar Panel
Care

A critical part of maintaining the solar electric battery charging system is to
keep the panels clean. The amount of power which a panel will produce is
directly related to the intensity of sunlight which reaches it. A dirty panel will
allow less light to reach the panel resulting in less power produced. A single
layer of dust or road grime can reduce the power output by 15 to 25%. Leaves
and debris which can cover two or three of the 36 individual cells can reduce
output power by 50 to 75%.
Use of the basic maintenance tips, regular inspections and regular cleaning
will assure you of maximum charging from your solar electric system. A nonabrasive cleaner and paper towels are recommended. The surrounding environment and the amount of road dust encountered determines how frequently the
panels should be cleaned. One to two times a month is preferred.
Tips to follow
1. If you can see a film or a layer of dust on the windshield chances
are your panels should be cleaned.

8 • 2 2 2

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2. On a bright sunny day the charging amps should be 3.5 to 5 amp for
each panel.
3. High winds blow dust and debris around causing dirt build up.
Frequently inspect the panels and clean as necessary.

CAUTION: Avoid damage to the solar panel controller.
Cover the solar panel with a blanket when externally
charging the batteries or performing battery cable
maintenance.

INTERIOR BULB CHART
LOCATION

BULB NUMBER

CEILING LIGHT

GE FI5T8 - CW

CLOSET LIGHT

SYLVANIA 1141

BEDROOM OR LIVING ROOM LAMP

SYLVANIA 1076

PORCH LIGHT

SYLVANIA 921
GE 92

WINDSOR

BULB USAGE INTERIOR

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NOTES

8 • 2 2 4

WINDSOR

SECTION 9
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CHASSIS
INTRODUCTION • 227
BATTERY DISCONNECT - CHASSIS • 227
BATTERY CHASSIS • 228
Battery Specifications - Chassis • 229
DASH • 230
Indicator Lamps • 230
Gauges • 232
Switches - Dash • 234
Air Conditioner & Heater Controls • 235
DIAGNOSTIC PLUG LOCATION • 242
SHIFTER PANEL • 243
Transmission Shifter • 243
Switches • 244
PARKING BRAKE • 245
LEVELING CONTROLS • 245
STEERING COLUMN & SMART WHEEL • 246
Smart Wheel Operation • 246
Wiper Functions • 247
STEERING COLUMN • 248
Tilt & Telescope• 248
Hazard Flasher • 248
FUSES & CIRCUITS - CHASSIS • 248
Distribution Panel - Front • 248
REAR START BOX • 251
ALTERNATOR • 251
Check Out Procedure • 252
Battery Maintainer • 253
BULB USAGE - EXTERIOR • 253

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A majority of the lighting and appliances are designed to operate from
12 Volt DC (direct current) power. This is why the batteries play such an
important role in the function of the motorhome. There are exceptions with
appliances such as the microwave or television; however, indirectly they still
operate from 12 Volt DC power, as they can be operated from the inverter. The
chassis functions (engine, transmission, dash air, etc.) are also 12 Volt DC.
With the all technological advancements taking place in the past several
years manufacturers have now incorporated electronics into these systems. It is
important to keep the 12 Volt system(s) in good working order. These
systems, with their incorporated electronics, are voltage sensitive. Some items
can be damaged if the DC voltage is not maintained within the designed
specifications.
There are two separate 12 Volt systems. One is the chassis system; the
other is the house system. These two systems, for the most part, are separate
from one another. The house system does not operate engine functions; as the
engine system does not operate house functions. However, within the two systems there are some inner connections. For example: While the motorhome is
driven the alternator on the engine will charge the house batteries. Likewise,
while the motorhome is plugged into shore power, or the generator is running,
the engine battery(s) are being charged. Each system will supply 12 Volt DC
power to the 12 Volt distribution panels. The 12 Volt panel that services a
majority of the chassis system functions is located outside by the roadside
front wheel. The other panel, located in the bedroom, services the house interior functions such as the interior lighting and appliances. You should become
familiar with these panels and the items they operate.
The two different systems, engine and house, have their own set(s) of
battery(s). The engine battery supplies 12 Volt DC power to the front distribution panel located in an outside compartment by the roadside front wheel. This
panel contains mostly engine system fuses and wiring such as headlights, taillight, dashboard functions, gauges, etc. The house battery(s) supplies
12 Volt DC power to the distribution panel located in the bedroom. This panel
contains fuses for the house, interior lighting and appliances, such as the
furnace and water heater.

INTRODUCTION

The main battery disconnect for the chassis battery turns the DC power on
or off to the rear and front run boxes. Most chassis and engine functions are
interrupted when the battery disconnect is turned off. Some electronic items
require a constant power source for memory retention such as the dash and
CB radios. Some electronic components of the engine and transmission require
a constant power source. Turn the main battery disconnect switch off when the
motorhome is going to be stored or performing electrical maintenance. If possible, leave the motorhome plugged into an AC source with the battery discon-

BATTERY
DISCONNECT
- CHASSIS

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nect switch on. This will help prevent the possibility of dead
batteries. If an AC source is not available, and the
motorhome is not going to be used or is stored more than 48
hours, it is recommended to turn the battery disconnect
switch off.

NOTE: The solar panels will charge the batteries with the disconnect switch off.
WARNING: When the frame or other welding is involved for motorhome repair or
modification the following precautions are
required to protect electronic components in
the motorhome chassis:
1. Disconnect the (+) positive and (-) negative battery connection and any electronic control ground wires connected to the
frame or chassis.
2. Cover electronic control components and
wiring to protect from hot sparks.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors
at the transmission electronic control
unit. Open bed storage compartment,
open engine access door. The ECU is
located above the transmission.
4. Do not connect welding cables to electronic control components.
5. The welding ground cable should be
attached no more than two feet from the
part to be welded.

BATTERY CHASSIS

The chassis battery operates only chassis and engine functions. The chassis
battery is a crank type battery, producing the high amperage needed to start the
engine. Engine starters initially require a large amount of current to crank an
engine. Initial starter amperage draw exceeds 1200 amps. The type of application in which the engine battery is used differs from the house battery application. The engine battery state of charge remains consistent. Maintenance is still
required with an engine battery. Regular electrolyte level checks and hydrometer readings should be performed. High electrolyte consumption or inconsistent
hydrometer cell readings may indicate a charging system problem. Perform a
charging system and current draw check if the battery is exhibiting abnormal
hydrometer readings.

NOTE: Replacement batteries should have the same cold
cranking amp (CCA) rating.

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Battery Specifications - Chassis
Chassis

Ah
(20hr)

CCA

RC
(25A)
minutes

240

1400

450

225

**

447

12 Volt Chassis
8D-MHD (1)
6 Volt Domestic
U2200 (4 each)

Battery connections are made in a Series/Parallel connection.
Domestic batteries not rated in Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

STATE OF VS. OPEN CIRCUIT
CHARGE
VOLTAGE
100%
75%
50%
25%
Discharged

12.66v
12.45v
12.24v
12.06v
11.89v

STATE OF VS SPECIFIC
CHARGE
GRAVITY
100%
75%
50%
25%
Discharged

1.265
1.225
1.190
1.155
1.120

CUMMINS ENGINE COLD CRANKING AMPS REQUIREMENTS
ISB 1100 CCA 12 VOLTS
* ISC 1250 CCA 12 VOLTS
ISM 1800 CCA 12 VOLTS
N14 1800 CCA 12 VOLTS

WINDSOR

CCA Rating are at 0º F. These
are the minimum requirements.

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DASH

Indicator Lamps
15

16

ANT
UP

LOW
COOLANT

7

13

CHECK
TRANS

4

5

6

LOW
AIR

GEN
OUT

STEP

ALT
CHARGE

18

17

14

3

STOP
ENG
WAIT
TO
START

8

PARK
BRAKE

12

2

1

CHECK
ENG

WARNING

WATER
IN
FUEL

LOW
FUEL

ABS

11

10

9

1. Check Engine:
This is a negative tripped light used only with the ISC Engine. Indicates
water has been detected in fuel.
2. Warning
Indicates out of range condition exists within the engine protection circuits.
Stop coach, check all fluid levels.
3. Stop Engine:
Alerts of severe out of range condition within the engine protection
circuits. Pull over and stop as soon as possible. Shut-off engine to avoid
engine damage.
4. Left Arrow - Audible Turn Indicators:
Indicates left turn indicator circuits active. Audible indicator cancels when
the brake is applied.
5. Headlight Beam:
Indicates high beams when illuminated.
6. Right Arrow - Audible Turn Indicators:
Indicates right turn indicator circuits active. Audible indicator cancels when
the brake is applied.

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7. Check Trans:
Alerts of problems related to the Allison Transmission. The light should
momentarily illuminate when the ignition is switched ON. When starting
the lamp will extinguish indicating the circuits are working properly. If
the lamp fails to illuminate or remains on, the transmission needs to be
checked immediately. Contact the nearest Allison dealer.
8. Wait to Start:
This monitors the air intake heater at start. This is only used with the ISC
engine.
9. ABS:
Indicates ABS possible fault in the ABS Brake system. Also indicates
faults codes for service technicians.
10. Low Fuel:
Indicates fuel level is becoming low.
11. Water in Fuel:
This is a negative tripped light used only with the ISC Engine. Indicates
water has been detected in fuel.
12. Park Brake:
Indicates parking/emergency brake is applied.
13. Low Air:
Indicates air tank pressures are out of operating range. Check air pressure.
14. Alt Charge:
Indicates a failure within the alternator charging system.
15. ANT:
Indicates TV antenna is raised. Lower antenna before moving coach.
16. LOW COOLANT:
Indicates coolant level in the overflow tank is below acceptable level.
17. Step:
Indicates the step is in the extended position. Alerts the driver of a
possible problem with the entry step.
18. GEN OUT:
Indicates the generator door is open.

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Gauges

4

7
8

5

9
6
2

10

3

1

1. Air Pressure Gauge:
This gauge indicates air system pressures. The normal air system operating
pressures are 90 to 120 psi. These air pressures are preset at the factory. If a
problem occurs with air system not maintaining normal operating pressure it
is an indication of a malfunction in the air system. Use caution and stop the
motorhome in a safe area. Contact your dealer immediately.

NOTE: It is not safe to drive the motorhome with low air
pressure. Damage can occur to the suspension and driveline.
The operation of the air brake system is also affected.
2. Voltmeter:
This gauge shows the charge condition in the chassis battery. The normal
voltage with the ignition switch ON and the engine OFF varies between 12.0
and 13.0 Volts. With the engine operating without a heavy load the battery
charging voltage is about 14.0 Volts. Battery readings of less than 10.5, or more
than 15.0 Volts, usually indicates a battery or electrical system problem.

9 • 2 3 2

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3. Turbo Boost:
Indicates boost pressure produced by engine turbocharger.
4. Tachometer:
Displays engine speed in revolutions per minute (RPM). Tachometer reads
output pulse of alternator. If tachometer quits, or indicates irratically, have
alternator checked immediately.
5. Odometer/Trip Meter:
Odometer/trip meter records mileage driven as well as keeps track of
mileage on a trip. To operate trip meter push button which changes odometer mileage reading to trip mileage reading. Reset button sets trip mileage
back to zero.
6. Fuel:
Fuel gauge will register approximate fuel level in tank when ignition
switch is in run position.

NOTE: Fuel mileage varies with driving style and road
conditions. Always average more than one tankful to obtain
a more accurate figure. The diesel Generator uses fuel from
main tank and will affect fuel mileage figures. Diesel
Generators will not operate below 1/4 tank to insure there is
enough fuel to run main engine.
7. Speedometer:
Indicates the speed of the motorhome. The gauge indicates MPH and KPH.
8. Oil Pressure:
Indicates pressure of oil and not the amount of oil in system. Please refer to
manufacturer’s instructions for specific pressure recommendations.
9. Coolant Temp:
Under average conditions the gauge will read between 180° F and 205° F.
Monitor this gauge frequently when CLIMBING HILLS, TOWING OR IN
HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURES. If the gauge shows that an overheating condition exists (the needle moving above the 212° F area)
IMMEDIATE ACTION should be taken.
Overheating may be a result of any of the following conditions:
• Low coolant level.
• Hydraulic fan motor failure.
• Mechanical failure of hoses or belts.
• Blocking of charge air cooler fins.
• Climbing a long hill on a hot day.
• Towing a heavy trailer.
• Idling for long periods of time.
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10. Trans Temp:
Shows temperature of transmission fluid. Normal transmission operating
temperature is 160-250° F. The maximum transmission to cooler oil
temperature is 300° F. Do not let the transmission temperature exceed
275° F. If excessive temperature is indicated stop motorhome and
shift to neutral. Accelerate engine to 1200-1500 RPM and allow
temperature to return to normal.

NOTE: Layouts will vary with difference in models or
options.

Switches - Dash

AUX
START

AIR
DUMP

DRVING
LTS

1

2

3

1. Aux Start:
Borrows power from the house batteries to
help the chassis battery to start the engine.
2. Air Dump:
Releases air from the chassis air bags to
lower the coach.
3. Driving Lights:
Operates low beam headlights at 80% of their
normal operating voltage

IDLE

ENG
DIAG

GEN
ON/OFF

4

5

6

4. IDLE:
This switch will increase and decrease the
engine idle in 25 rpm increments. There are
limits to the idle speed, about 700 to 875 rpm.
5. ENG DIAG:
Checks engine functions.
6. GEN ON/OFF:
Starts and stops electric generator.

FANS
ON/OFF

FANS
ON/OFF

7

8

9 • 2 3 4

7. FANS ON/OFF:
Operates left windshield fan.
8. FANS ON/OFF:
Operates right windshield fan.

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Electrical Systems - Chassis

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9. Light Switch:
Pull to first setting or parking lights. Pull all the way out for headlights.
Turn right or left to adjust the brightness of the dash lights when lights are
turned on. Turn all the way left for inside cockpit lights.

9

10. Back Up Monitor:
Used with the back up camera and will display the rear view of
the motorhome.

NOTE: Layouts will vary with difference
in models and options.

BLACK AND WHITE MONITOR 55M - 721 AMR

POWER
ON/

STD BY

INPUT
A/

10

B

VOLUME

MIN

MAX

CONTRAST

BRIGHT

DAY

SONY

Air Conditioner Refrigeration Components:
Compressor - The compressor is belt driven from the engine through the
compressor and electronic clutch pulley. The compressor will pump freon from a
low pressure gas into a high pressure, high temperature gas. This is the start of
the refrigeration process.

NIGHT

Air Conditioner &
Heater Control

Condenser - The condenser in front of the radiator is made of coils and
fins which provide rapid transfer of heat from the refrigerant as external air passes over the coils. The high pressure gas is changed to a high pressure liquid.
Condenser Fan - A steady flow of cooling air is maintained across the
condenser during system operations. The fan is part of the hydraulic system.
Receiver-Drier - Freon leaves the condenser, enters the dehydrator and is
stored until needed. The drier filters out moisture in the system. It only takes one
drop of moisture to cause a malfunction in the cooling unit.
Expansion Valve - The expansion valve suppresses the refrigerant into the
evaporator according to the cooling requirements. The pressure is reduced in the
restrictive effort of the expansion valve. A part of the valve is the capillary tube
assembly. The capillary tube is the sensing bulb at the outlet of the evaporator.

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Evaporator - A tube core and fins are used in the evaporator similar to
the condenser. Air is blown through the fins to allow the evaporator to cool and
reduce the pressure.
Blower and Motor - Just as the condenser has a fan, the evaporator has a
fan called the blower. The blower will draw air from the cab area and force the
air over the evaporator coils and fins. This forced air will ensure continuous
vaporizing of the R134a.
Relays and Switches - Both electronic and vacuum switches are used in
the control and operations of the system.

TEMP F/ PSIG
16 15.69
18 17.04
20 18.43
22 19.73
24 21.35
26 22.88
28 24.47
30 26.10
32 27.79
34 29.52
36 31.32
38 33.17
40 35.07
42 37.03
44 39.05
45 40.09
50 45.48
55 51.27
9 • 2 3 6

Chemical Stability:
The air conditioning system life and efficient operations depends upon the
chemical stability of the refrigeration system. The refrigeration system is made
of Refrigerant-R134a and Polyakylene Gycol (PAG) synthetic lubricant. It is
very important that all materials contained within the refrigerant system be
chemically compatible. The only suitable compound for use with R134a is PAG.
The total amount of PAG within the refrigerant system is approximately 18% of
the total refrigerant in the system.
How much refrigerant is in the system or how much should be used when
charging? You will need 1 oz. of PAG for each 7 feet of hose after the first 15
feet of hose. Roughly, a 40 foot motorhome will use 92 feet of refrigerant hose.
Take 15 feet off the measurement and the result would be 77 feet. This 77 feet
TEMP F/ PSIG TEMP F/ PSIG is then divided by 7 for total of 11. This
60
57.47
112 151.30 represents the number of ounces of PAG
65
64.10
114 156.10 oil needed for the A/C system, 11 oz.
Carrying the formula one step fur70
71.19
116 161.10
75
78.75
118 166.10 ther, the 11 oz. equal approximately 18%
80
86.80
120 171.30 of the entire system. The total will equate
85
95.40
122 176.60 to approximately 61 oz. or 3.8 lbs. of R90 104.40
124 182.00 134a.
High pressure readings are another
91 106.30
126 187.50
way
to
determine the amount of charge.
92 108.20
128 193.10
93 110.20
130 198.90 The ambient temperature reading is meas94 112.10
135 213.70 ured one inch away from the condenser.
95 114.10
140 229.40 The ambient temperature reading, plus
100 124.30
145 245.80 40°F, will equate to a value from the pres102 128.50
150 263.00 sure table.
104
106
108
110

132.90
137.30
141.90
146.50

155
160
165
170

281.00
300.10
320.00
340.80
WINDSOR

EXAMPLE: 90° F
1 inch from condenser
+40°F
130°F ----- 198.90

Electrical Systems - Chassis

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PSIG-On fully charged system the expected pressure that should be seen
on the HIGH-SIDE gauge will be around 200 PSGI.

NOTE: All systems are charged at the factory with 4.0 lbs of
R134A.
R-134a Refrigerant:
R134a is classified non-explosive, non-flammable and non-corrosive.
There is hardly any odor and it is much heavier than air. R134a is ozone
friendly; however, it is not technician friendly. Proper care in handling and
adequate ventilation must be observed. Under normal atmospheric pressures
and temperatures R134a will evaporate so quickly it will freeze anything it
comes in contact with. The open container boiling point for R134a is minus
21.7º F. This low boiling point makes for an ideal refrigerant. The tremendous
amount heat transfer which occurs when a liquid boils, or vapors condense,
forms the basic principles of all A/C systems. The amount of heat required to
raise or lower the temperature of one pound of water by 1º F equals one British
Thermal Unit (BTU). The BTU is the standard measurement of an
air conditioner system.
Safety and Handling 134A and Pag Oil:
• When working with any refrigerant system wear eye protection and hand
protection.
• Pag Oil irritates the skin. Flush with water immediately if in
contact with any body part.
• Ensure any service work performed on the A/C system is in a well
ventilated work area.
• Keep open flame away from service area. The discharge of a refrigerant
gas near an open flame can produce a very poisonous gas.

NOTE: O-rings used in a 134A system are Hydrogenated
Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (HNBR). These are green in color
and required for the 134A system.
A/C Heater:
The A/C system will also produce heat to warm the air in the dash area.
Much like the refrigeration side of the system a liquid will be used in the
process. This liquid is the engine coolant. The coolant is passed from the
radiator to an electronic water valve. The water valve, when open, will allow
the coolant to flow through the heater core. The heater core is tubing and fins.
Air is drawn into the system by a blower motor through the outside recirculation door opening. Air is blown through the A/C evaporator core and then
through the heater core. When the temperature control is in the WARM position coolant flows through the heater core. When the temperature is in the
COOL position coolant flow bypasses the heater core. In either position the air
flow is felt at the discharge vents.
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Diagnosis of Electric Water Valve:
Theory of Operation: Monaco Coach models with a center dial temperature
control use a potentiometer at the control head for input of desired temperature. The water valve which controls the water flow to the heater core is
opened and closed by a stepper motor mounted on the water valve. A control
module compares the output voltage from the control to that of the feedback
for the stepper motor of water valve. The control module then drives the motor
to within one-half volt of the control potentiometer voltage.
Functional Test:
• Start and operate the engine until the water reaches normal operating
temperature.
• Set the HVAC temperature control to the full hot position.
• The discharge air outlets should have hot air.
• Rotate the temperature control to full cold position.
• Allow 10 minutes for the temperature to stabilize.
• The discharge air outlets should have cold air.
No Heat:
• Check the blower and air mode operations. Fix or repair prior to
proceeding.
• Verify the engine is reaching normal operating temperature. (Check with
engine manufacturer for proper procedure.)
• Check the inlet hose at the water valve. The hose has hot water at the
valve inlet. The inlet water temperature should be the same as the engine
water temp.
• With the temp control on full hot position, check the outlet hose of the
water valve. The hose should be at engine water temperature.
Vacuum Generator:
The vacuum generator is important to the operation of the dash heating
and A/C systems. This provides the vacuum to open and close the vacuum
switches. When the vacuum generator is operating it creates 15 inches of
vacuum and is passed to a reservoir ball. Most dash heater and A/C systems
will only require 10 inches of vacuum to operate the switches. The output from
the reservoir is sent to the vent control knob. The control knob will then direct
the vacuum operation to the appropriate vacuum switch to open or close vents
and switches. The vacuum generator uses the air from the front air storage tank
through a 1/4 inch red air line. Whenever the ignition is ON and the A/C is
operating the vacuum generator will operate.

9 • 2 3 8

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Dash AC and Heater Control:
The system is designed to only provide heating, cooling and defrost
capabilities for the pilot/co-pilot area. The system is not capable of heating or
cooling the entire motorhome.

Blower Speed Control

Temperature Control

Mode Control Switch

Blower Operation:
The blower is selected automatically when the desired feature is selected
with the “select switch.” The system is shut off by placing the mode control
switch in the “OFF” position.
A/C Operation:
The A/C dash system will operate in all modes except VENT, FLOOR and
OFF. The A/C and MAX positions engage the A/C compressor. When the
switch is positioned in the A/C mode fresh air is drawn through the front air
intake of the unit through the A/C coil. In the MAX position a damper door
closes off the fresh air, while another door opens to permit only air from inside
the coach to be used. When maximum cold air is desired this position should
be selected. Also use this position when you do not wish to introduce outside
air into the coach.
Air Distribution Switch (Mode Control):
This switch is used to direct air where it is needed to maximize the comfort
of the motorhome.

MAX
A/C
A/C

MAX A/C - Recirculated air is drawn from the passenger
area and discharged through the dash louvers.
A/C - Fresh Air is drawn from outside into the system and
discharged through the dash louvers.
VENT - Fresh air is drawn in and discharged throughout the
dash and defrost louvers.

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OFF - The blower motor does not operate. The fresh air inlet door will
close minimizing outside air infiltration into the the motorhome.
OFF

BI-LEVEL - Fresh air is drawn in and discharged through the dash, floor
and defrost louvers.
FLOOR - Fresh air is drawn in and discharged through the floor louvers. A
small amount of air is used to defrost the windshield.
MIX - Fresh air is drawn in and discharged through the floor and defrost
louvers. The A/C system operates to dehumidify the discharged air.
DEFROST - Fresh air is drawn in and discharged through the defrost
louvers. The A/C system operates to dehumidify the discharged air.
Temperature Control Switch:
This switch controls an electric water valve regulating the amount of
engine coolant passing through the heating and cooling coils in the system.
Rotating to the red area provides warmer air; rotating to the blue area provides
cooler air.
Blower Control Switch:
The switch controls the speed of the blower motor, which is one of the best
and most effective ways of controlling the temperature. The switch provides
four speeds in all modes except OFF.
Operating tips and hints:
Air intake and discharge temperatures are greatly effected by ambient
temperatures and relative humidity. A large amount of cooling capacity is used
to dehumidify air as well as cool it. After three to five minutes of A/C operations, the discharged air temperature should be approximately 30º F cooler
than the fresh or recirculated air entering the AC system.
Winter Use:
• De-ice the windshield using the DEFROST mode.
• Air will heat up faster with a slower blower speed until normal operating
temperature ranges are reached.
Summer Use:
• Close all windows and vents to hot, humid outside air.
• MAX A/C and HI blower will provide quick cool down.
• Use a lower blower speed to produce cooler air.

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TroubleShooting:
The dash A/C/Heat system uses a combination of compressed air
(developed by the chassis system), vacuum air (developed by the vacuum
generator) and electric relays and vacuum switches. Therefore, any repair can
be classified in one of five categories.
• Electrical • Vacuum • Air Conditioner • Heater • Defroster
The motorhome compressed air tank must have adequate pressure to
operate the vacuum generator or damper doors will not function. Also, the dash
A/C/Heat unit must be switched ON to provide electric current to the relays,
vacuum switches, etc. The dash A/C and heater system should be used monthly
to keep the compressor lubricated.
The following information is provided to assist in troubleshooting
common operational problems which may occur.
No Heating:
1. A/C switch is turned off.
2. Blower switch is turned off.
3. Verify the proper engine coolant level.
4. Verify that the engine is reaching operating temperature.
5. Verify engine coolant is reaching water valve attached to unit.
6. Verify operation of water valve to permit engine coolant to pass through
valve to heater core.
7. Check unit fuses.
8. Check power supply to water valve and grounding.
9. Check wiring.
10. Engine thermostat faulty.
No Cooling:
1. Check blower is operating, A/C switch is in A/C or Max position,
temperature control is turned to max cooling (blue area).
2. System fuses are not blown.
3. Condenser fan is operating.
4. Check power supply to unit and grounding of system.
5. Check wiring.
6. Coolant valve leaking.
7. Drive belt loose or broken.
8. Compressor Clutch inoperative, will not engage.
9. Expansion Valve faulty or frozen.
10. Thermostat control faulty.
11. Mode control switch faulty.
12. Compressor faulty.
13. Loss of refrigerant.
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Reduced cooling:
1. Coolant valve not operating correctly.
2. Air passages obstructed.
3. Loose or worn drive belt.
4. Check blower and select switch.
5. Thermostat control valve faulty.
6. Expansion valve faulty.
7. Compressor faulty.
8. Low refrigerant charge.
Blower Does Not Operate or Runs Slow:
1. Check fuses.
2. Check for loose or corroded connection.
3. Check wiring.
4. Check ignition switch is “ON”.
5. Check blower and select switch.
6. Motor shaft seized.
7. Blower wheel out of alignment.
Damper Doors Do Not Operate:
1. Does motorhome air tank have pressure?
2. Check vacuum generator is being powered and producing vacuum.
3. Check vacuum line entering unit for vacuum.
4. Check that the vacuum solenoid mounted on unit are receiving power
from the mode switch. If operating properly, the vacuum solenoid will
feel hot if current is engaging the solenoid.
5. Check mode switch.
6. Check wiring.
7. Check for pinched vacuum line leading to the vacuum motor operating
the damper door in question.

DIAGNOSTIC PLUG
LOCATION

9 • 2 4 2

Cummins and Allison diagnostic
plugs are located in the roadside
electrical bay just in front of the
front wheel.

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Transmission Key Pad:
The function of each position of the keypad push-button shifter is as follows:

SHIFTER PANEL

Transmission Shifter

• Select the REVERSE gear by pressing R.
• Select NEUTRAL by pressing N. The area around the N button is a
raised ridge so the driver can orient his hand to the push buttons by
touch, without looking at the display.
• Select DRIVE range by pressing D. The highest forward gear appears
on the SELECT display and the transmission will shift to the starting
gear.
• The UPSHIFT and DOWNSHIFT arrow buttons are used to select a
higher (if not in D) or lower (if not in 1) forward range. These buttons
are not functional in NEUTRAL or REVERSE. One press changes the
range selected by one range. If the button is held continuously the
selected range will continue to change up or down until the button is
released or until the highest/lowest possible range of gears is selected.
• The fluid level of the transmission can also be checked from the shift
selector keypad. Press the up and down arrow button simultaneously
while the motorhome is at a rest position. This activates the diagnostic
circuitry of the transmission. To exit the diagnostics press N.

NOTE: The oil level sensor method of checking the fluid
level compensates for transmission fluid temperature between
60º C - 104º C (140º F - 220º F). Any temperature below 60º
C(140º F), or above 104º C (220º F) will result in an Invalid
for Display condition.

Transmission Key Pad.

The MODE button will enable the secondary shift point to be selected. The
transmission shift point used will be 200 rpm lower. It is further used by a
service technician to access diagnostic codes when troubleshooting. The
diagnostic circuitry must be enabled to display the codes.
To Enter Economy Mode:
Press the MODE button. The LED will illuminate.
To Exit Economy Mode:
Press the MODE button. The LED will extinguish.

CAUTION: Do not use the economy mode in heavy stop and
go traffic or mountainous terrains. While in economy mode
using heavy throttle applications with frequent shifting will
raise transmission fluid temperature. Exit economy mode
until road conditions improve.

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Switches

1. Drvr Shade:
Operates the power sun visor located on
driver’s side.

DRVR
SHADE

PASS
SHADE

BLOCK
HEAT

1

2

3

MIRR
HEAT

PEDAL
IN/OUT

STEP
COVER

4

7

3. Block Heat:
The length of time that the block heater
must be on to be effective depends on the
length of time that the engine has been shut
down and what the ambient air temperature
is. For example: If the engine has been shut
down overnight in sub freezing temperatures, the block heater may need to be on for
a minimum of two to three hours. With
lower ambient temperatures and longer shutdown periods, time required to heat the
block increases substantially.

4. Mirror Heat:
This switch turns on the heaters in outside rear view mirrors. The mirror heaters
should be used when defogging or deicing is
needed. Mirror heat should not be left in the
ON position unless continuous fogging conditions occur.
The outside mirrors have been placed so they can be easily adjusted with
an Allen wrench. After taking delivery of the new motorhome it will be necessary to sit in the driver seat and have the mirrors adjusted for accurate visibility. Make sure you can see out of both the driver and the passenger side mirrors, before heading out on the road.
Using your left hand you can make the adjustments to the mirrors with little effort. When using the mirror heat switch, just turn the switch to the ON
position. Only use the mirror heat long enough to defrost the mirror.
Top Mirror = convex glass
Middle Mirror = flat glass
Bottom Mirror = convex glass

5

GEN
IN/OUT

2. Pass Shade:
Operates the power sun visor located on
passenger side.

6

5. Pedal In/Out
After sitting in the driver seat and making adjustments to the mirrors and
steering wheel use the Pedal In/Out switch to adjust the brake and throttle
pedal to be either closer or farther away. The switch moves the pedals inward
or outward approximately three inches. If you need to move the pedals inward
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just push the same switch in the opposite direction. When the pedal comes to
the end of the traveling distance you will hear a different sound in the noise of
the motor. Stop by releasing the switch. Do not continue moving the pedals.
Damage to the motor and or fuses may result if operation of the switch continues after reaching the fullest extend or retract position.
6. Step Cover:
The front door models are equipped with a sliding Step-Well Cover that is
extended and retracted by two switch locations. One switch is located just
inside the entry door to the right, next to the passenger seat. The second
switch is located on the left portion of the shift panel.
8

7. Generator Tray IN/OUT:
This switch slides the front generator compartment tray out to access
generator or in to close compartment.
8. Mirror Control:
This switch adjusts the bottom mirror of the rear view mirror. The
small selector in the middle of the switch must be placed in the desired
side. The middle position is to prevent accidental bumping of the switch
and changing the mirror position.
Mirror Care and Cleaning:
When washing your motorhome with hot water and soap, you will be also
washing the outside chrome mirrors. After you have completed washing the
motorhome you will need to clean the outside mirrors with a good quality glass
cleaner. DO NOT use anything abrasive on the mirror and the outside chrome
of the mirror.

PARKING BRAKE

The park brake system is activated when the push-pull control knob is pulled. When the knob is pushed the brake is
released. Prior to driving allow time for the air compressor to
build up sufficient air to shut off the air warning lamp and
buzzer.
RVA Control (Hydraulic Systems):
The three point hydraulic leveling system is operated from the control module. You can manually or
automatically level the motorhome. The control features a multiple warning system with flashing lights
and a bong alarm to alert you of the jack down position.

LEVELING CONTROLS
MODEL J II AR/E LEVELING SYSTEM
ON

P
O
W
E
R

EXTEND

L
E
F
T

F
R
O
N
T

R
I
G
H
T

RETRACT

RVACO. Escondido, Ca.
WINDSOR

L
E
V
E
L

AUTO

ALL

W
A
R
N
I
N
G

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HWH COMPUTERIZED LEVELING
LEVEL AIR

NOT IN
PARK/
BRAKE

DUMP

OFF

EXCESS
SLOPE

TRAVEL
RAISE

CAUTION

UNDERSTAND OPERATORS MANUAL BEFORE USING. BLOCK FRAME AND TIRES
SECURELY BEFORE REMOVING TIRES OF CRAWLING UNDER VEHICHLE.

HWH Control (Air Systems):
The touch panel, computer controlled, four-point air leveling system is an option available for the motorhome. The keypad on the system controls the computerized airleveling operations. The ignition must be ON in order for the
suspension system to function.

NOTE: The suspension on the air leveling system will NOT operate unless the ignition is
ON.

The motorhome is equipped with a smart wheel, the “HIGH IDLE” feature
STEERING
COLUMN & SMART can increase the idle with this procedure.
WHEEL
1. Cruise control off. To raise the idle push the
resume switch. You can raise the idle in
25 rpm increments by pushing the switch
seven different times.
2. To lower the idle use the set button on the
smart wheel. Again, push downward to lower
the idle.
3. Cruise control switch on, push inward on
the set button and the rpm will raise all at
one time to 1,500 rpms.

Smart Wheel
Operation

Horn:
The horn bar on the steering wheel will send the appropriate signal to cause
horn output to be activated while the switch is pressed.
Headlamp Flash:
If the headlamps are turned on, pressing the switch will cause them to go off
while the switch is pressed. In a like manner, if the headlamps are turned off,
pressing the switch will cause them to go on while the switch is pressed.
Marker Lamp Flash:
If the marker lamps are turned on, pressing the switch will cause them to go
off while the switch is pressed. If marker lamps are off, pressing this switch will
cause them to temporarily illuminate.
Cruise Functions:
• Cruise ON/OFF - The operation of this switch cycles the Cruise system
ON and OFF.

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• Cruise SET - The operation of this switch actuates the Cruise Set
function of the engine controller.
• Cruise RES - The operation of this switch actuates the Cruise
Resume function of the engine controller.
• Cruise CANCEL - The operation of this switch signals the cruise system
to disengage without losing the current speed memory setting.

WARNING: Do not use cruise control in heavy traffic or on
roads that are winding, slippery or unpaved. Do not shift the
transmission into “N” (Neutral) with the cruise control on,
as high engine RPM run up will occur until the cruise control is turned off.
Wiper Wash:
The operation of this switch activates the wash pump relay when the switch is
pressed. In addition, if none of the latching wiper functions (Wiper LO/HI or
Variable) had been previously selected, the Low Speed Wiper will be activated
for a period of approximately three wiper cycles after the switch is released. If
any of the latching wiper functions (Wiper LO/HI or Variable) had been previously selected, the wipers will continue to run in the selected mode after the
wash switch is released.
Wiper LO/HI:
The operation of this switch initially causes the Low Speed Wiper functions to
activate. If the switch is pressed again the High-Speed Wiper will be activated.
Subsequent presses of this switch will cause alternate operation of the wipers
in the low or high-speed mode.
Wiper Variable:
The operation of this switch initially causes the Low Speed Wiper function to
activate for one wipe. If the switch is pressed again within approximately 30
seconds, the Low Speed Wiper function will be activated again and will repeat
at an interval determined by the time between the last two operations of the
switch. Additional switch operations will shorten the cycle. Activation of any
wiper mode cancels the variable mode. The effect for the driver is thus: In light
rain or mist conditions the driver presses the switch once when windshield first
needs clearing. When the windshield again requires clearing, the driver presses
button again-setting the time period between subsequent wipes to that required
by the current conditions.
Wiper OFF:
The operation of this switch causes all operation of wipers to be canceled.
Turning off the ignition also resets this mode. Pull headlight switch to ON then
back to off to cancel automatic headlight operation.

Wiper Functions

NOTE: Headlights will come on when any wiper mode is selected.

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STEERING
COLUMN

Tilt and telescope steering wheel control lever is located
on the steering column.
• To tilt the steering wheel pull the lever up. Tilt the
steering wheel where you want it. Release the lever
and it will lock the steering wheel in the new position.
• To telescope the steering wheel push and hold the
lever down. Push down or pull up on the steering
wheel until the wheel is where you want it. Release
the lever and the steering wheel will lock in the new
position.

Tilt & Telescope

Turn indicator and headlight high/low dimmer control
lever is located on the steering column.
• Pushing the lever forward will activate the right
turn indicator circuits when the ignition is on.
• Pulling the lever down will activate the left turn
indicator circuits when the ignition is on.
• Pulling the lever up will select high/low beam
circuits when the head lights are ON.
The flasher button is located on the steering column.

Hazard Flasher

• To turn four way flasher on pull out on flasher button.
• To shut off flasher push button inward.

FUSES & CIRCUITS The front electrical panel is located on the roadside, ahead of the front
wheel. It contains the fuses, self resetting supply circuit breakers, solenoid and
- CHASSIS
Distribution Panel Front

relays.

The automotive fuses and emergency flashers are located in the front electrical panel. The fuses are the standard plug-in type (ATO). When a fuse
“BLOWS,” the wire in middle of the plastic case will be broken. A bad or
blown fuse must be replaced with a fuse of the same rating and type. Using a
fuse of a different type rating will defeat the circuit protection provided by the
fuse, which could result in damage to the motorhome’s electrical system. If a
fuse has been replaced and it “BLOWS” repeatedly, that may be an indication
that a fault exists or an electronic component has failed. It is recommended that
the motorhome be taken to a qualified RV technician before any future use to
diagnose and repair the problem. Circuits are identified on the fuse label located
on the inside of the electrical compartment door.

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Circuit Breakers And Fuses
House:
1. Bay Door Locks - 10 amp Fuse
2. LP/CO Detector - 3 amp Fuse
3. Power Seat (Driver) -15 amp Circuit Breaker
4. Power Seat (Passenger) -15 amp Circuit Breaker
5. Storage Lights - 15 amp Fuse
6. Service Lights/LP SOL -15 amp Fuse
7. Auxiliary Start/TV AMP -7.5 amp Fuse
8. Cigarette Lighter -15 amp Fuse
9. Map Lights -7.5 amp Fuse
10. C.B. Radio -2 amp Fuse
11. Engine Block Heater -15 amp Fuse
12. Dash Fans -15 amp Fuse
Chassis:
13. Step Switch -7.5 amp Fuse
14. Step Motor -25 amp Fuse
15. Reserved
16. Power Visors -15 amp Fuse
17. Air Leveling -15 amp Fuse
18. Step Slide -15 amp Fuse
19. Air Leveling (Comp) -15 amp Fuse
Accessories:
20. Rear Vision -5 amp Fuse
21. Leveling Jacks -15 amp Fuse
22. Air Dumps -15 amp Fuse
23. Auxiliary Lights -15 amp Fuse
24. Spot Light -15 amp Fuse
Ignition
25. Air Conditioner -20 amp Fuse
26. Jack/Antenna Warning Lights -5 amp Fuse
27. TV IGN Relay -7.5 amp Fuse
28. Slide-Out IGN Relay
29. Mirror Heater -15 amp Fuse
30. Mirror Control -1 amp Fuse
31. Adjustable Pedals
32. Reserved
33. Step/ISO/Vac Sense -7.5 amp Fuse
Marker (Chassis)
34. Marker Lights -7.5 amp Fuse
Circuit Breakers
Refrigerator (2-Way/3-Way) -5/30A

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Monaco 1 Chassis Assignments:
FUSES, Left - Right - Down:
Marker Lights - 20A
Right Rear Turn - 15A
Left Rear Turn - 15A
Horn - 20A
Marker/Headlight Switch - 15A
Key Switch Feed - 10A
DRL - 25A
Reserved
ABS BAT - 20A
Reserved
ACC - 10A
Panel - 10A
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
Clutch Condenser - 20A
Wiper - 10A
RELAYS Left Top - Right Bottom:
Marker Lights
Left Rear Turn
ACC
Right Rear Turn
Horn
Clutch/Condenser
Monaco 2 Chassis Assignments:
FUSES, left Top - Right bottom:
Park Bell - 10A
Brake Lights - 20A
Head Lights - 25A
Hazard Flasher - 20A
Park Bell - 10A
Exhaust Brake - 20A
Air Dryer - 15A
Turn Flasher - 20A
Back-Up Lights - 15A
ABS IGN - 5A
Dash/Fuel SD - 10A
Eng/Trn IGN - 5A
RELAYS Left Top - Right Bottom
Ignition
Park Bell 1
Park Bell 2
Exhaust Brake 2
Exhaust Brake 1
Brake Lamps
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To Start From the Rear:
• Turn ignition key to ON.
• Move rocker switch to REAR.
• Ensure everything is clear of rotating parts.
• Press the switch to START.
• Moving switch to the center OFF position
will turn engine OFF.
• Return switch to FRONT for normal operation.
• Return the switch to FRONT run after use. If the
motorhome will not start from the front, try to start it from
the rear start box.

REAR START BOX

CAUTION: When checking the engine compartment this
switch should be placed in the rear start position. This will
prevent accidental starting of the engine from the cab area.
The Leece-Neville alternator with integral rectifier and regulator and
remote voltage sensor is designed for reliable high output at all RPMs. This
alternator offers high output over a broad range of operating speeds. The
4884JB deliver the same reliable, heavy duty performance all Leece-Neville
alternators are known for. The 4884JB features an integral regulator and rectifier for compact installations. While driving, if you notice that your tachometer
is not operating, you may want to have your alternator checked. The tachometer is wired to the stator terminal of the alternator. Always keep a close eye on
the voltmeter in the dash area.
The alternator should replace the amper-hours taken from the battery at
start. The amount of charge given to a battery is dependent on engine run time.
This allows to maintain a 75% level with enough energy to power the electrical
systems. Driving the motorhome for a short distance or short periods of time,
may prevent the battery from being brought up to above 75% level.

ALTERNATOR

Specifications:
• The integral rectifier system utilizes 12: 50-amp diodes
mounted in multiple aluminum heat sinks for efficient
heat dissipation during high-output operation.
• Aluminum housings
• Bi-directional fan
• Front bearing: 305 cartridge type
• Enclosed brush system
• Operation Ambient Temperature Range (-40º to 200ºF)
• Negative Ground Configuration
• Regulator Adjustment Range 13.6 to 15.4 Volts
• Batteries may start to gas at 14.3 Volts
• Max. Operating RPM 8,000

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Check Out
Procedure

• Check all wiring for burnt or loose electrical connections.
Repair as needed.
• Check all grounds and electrical connections to ensure they are clean
and tight.
a. Alternator ground to chassis frame.
b. Motor block ground to chassis frame.
c. Chassis battery ground to chassis frame.
d. Alternator positive output to isolator center terminal.
• Inspect the alternator for damage. A broken fan blade can damage an
alternator or make it out of balance.
• Check belt, pulley and fan for wear. Replace as needed.
• Never attempt to disconnect the battery or battery wire from the alternator
with the engine running. This can cause damage to the alternator or the
regulator.
• The pulley for the alternator should be torqued to 80 foot pounds.
• Chassis battery voltage with the engine OFF should range from
12.2 to 12.7 VDC.
• Chassis battery voltage with the engine at idle should range 13.5 to
14.2 vdc.
• The output of the alternator range is 13.6 to 15.4 vdc. Connect a volt
meter to the (B+) terminal of the alternator and chassis ground. Idle the
engine up to 1200 rpm.
• Connect a clamp-on amp-meter, if available, to the positive battery cable
to verify the battery state/rate of charge.
STATE OF VS SPECIFIC
CHARGE
GRAVITY
100%
75%
50%
25%
Discharged

1.265
1.225
1.190
1.155
1.120

The distilled water level in battery should be 3/8” below the vent tube.

Remember the alternator is not a battery charger. It is designed to maintain the
proper operating voltage level for the motorhome. A battery with a low charge, or a
dead battery, may cause damage to the alternator.
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The battery maintainer is a fully automatic device that keeps the chassis
battery fully charged whenever your motorhome is plugged into shore power
or your generator is running.

Battery Maintainer

• For easy reference the battery maintainer has
a green LED to indicate when it is active. It is illuminated whenever you are plugged into shore
power, or when the genset is running. It is also
illuminated when the engine is running, but that is
of no consequence.

NOTE: If the green LED is not illuminated when you are plugged into
shore power. Run the engine for a few seconds
to activate the battery maintainer.
• The battery maintainer will provide up to 15 amps to the chassis
battery.
• If the chassis battery voltage is low you may hear a clicking
sound from the battery maintainer. This is normal and indicates
that the chassis battery is trying to draw more than 15 amps. The
sound will stop as soon as the battery has become recharged.
• While dry camping with the generator off, the battery maintainer
becomes inactive and the green LED will go out.

BULB USAGE EXTERIOR
EXTERIOR BULB CHART
LOCATION
BULB NUMBER
LOW BEAM
GE H7 58520U
HIGH BEAM
SYLVANIA 9005 HB3 U
TURN SIGNAL - FRONT
SYLVANIA 3457
TAIL/TURN - REAR
SYLVANIA 1157
LOWER & UPPER MARKER LIGHTS
GE #59

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NOTES

9 • 2 5 4

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SECTION 10
CHASSIS
INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION • 257
AIR SUPPLY SYSTEM • 258
AIR GOVERNOR • 258
AIR DRYER • 259
Air Dryer Operation • 259
Air Dryer Cycle • 259
Importance of the Air Dryer • 259
Desiccant-Type Air Dryer • 260
Desiccant Cartridge • 261
AIR STORAGE TANKS • 262
AIR COUPLER - UNIVERSAL• 262
AIR SYSTEM - CHARGING (EXTERNAL) • 262
RIDE HEIGHT VALVES (ADJUSTING) • 263
Checking Ride Height • 263
SUSPENSION AIR RIDE BAGS • 264
Checklist - Air bag Inspections • 264
BRAKE SYSTEMS - AIR BRAKES • 265
BRAKE - PARK & EMERGENCY SYSTEMS • 266
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT/SLACK ADJUSTER • 267
ABS SYSTEM (Anti-Lock Brakes) • 267
BRAKE SYSTEMS - BACK UP • 269
ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS • 270
SHOCK ABSORBERS • 272
LEVELING SYSTEM • 272
Hydraulic Leveling System (RVA) • 272
Manual Leveling • 273
Automatic Leveling System • 274
AIR LEVELING SYSTEM (OPTIONAL) • 276
Air Leveling - Traveling Preparation • 278
ENGINE - GENERAL INFORMATION • 278
ISC ENGINE • 279
STARTING PROCEDURE • 279
COLD WEATHER STARTING PROCEDURE• 280
OIL RECOMMENDATIONS (ENGINE) • 280
Oil Recommendations - Cold Weather • 282
ENGINE SHUTDOWN • 282
ENGINE SHUTDOWN - Extended • 283
COOLANT • 283

Coolant - Additive (SCA) • 284
Coolant Hoses • 285
Coolant System - Thawing • 285
FUEL REQUIREMENTS • 285
BRAKING - ENGINE • 286
BRAKE - EXHAUST (ISC Engine) • 286
TRANSMISSION (SHIFT SELECTOR) • 287
Transmission - Check Light • 288
Transmission - Periodic Inspections • 289
TRANSMISSION LUBRICATING FLUID • 291
Cold Check • 291
Hot Check • 292
FUEL TANK • 293
FUEL/WATER SEPARATOR (ISC Engine) • 293
FUEL SENDING UNIT • 294
Fuel Lines & Hoses • 295
HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS (ISC) • 295
Hydraulic Pump • 295
Hydraulic Cooler • 296
Hydraulic Fan System • 296
Thermovalve • 297
Switching Valve • 297
Fan Motor • 297
Hydraulic Filter Reservoir • 298
STEERING GEAR • 298
AIR FILTER MINDER • 299
AIR FILTER (CHANGING) • 299
DRIVE AXLE LUBRICANT • 300
DRIVELINE • 300
LUBRICATION CHART • 301
PARTS-COMMON SOLENOIDS & SENDERS • 302
CHART - FILTERS & BELTS • 304
TANK CAPACITIES (APPROXIMATE GALLONS) • 305
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS • 305
CHART - METRIC CONVERSION • 304
MAINTENANCE RECORD • 307
GLOSSARY OF TERMS • 311
INDEX • 314

10

Chassis Information

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This chapter contains knowledge and information on various components
of your motorhome chassis. Following the guidelines and procedures will
help you to understand and operate your motorhome. Complete instructions
for various components can be located in the operator manual included in
the Owner’s Information File box.

INTRODUCTION

WARNING: When frame or other welding is involved for
motorhome repair or modification. The following precautions
are required to protect electric components in the motorhome
chassis.
1. Disconnect the (+) positive and (-) negative battery connection and
any electronic control ground wires connected to the frame or
chassis.
2. Cover electronic control components and wiring to protect from
hot sparks.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors at the transmission electronic control unit. Open bed storage compartment, open engine
access door. ECU is located above the transmission.
4. Do not connect welding cables to electronic control components.
5. The welding ground cable should be attached no more than 2 feet
from the part to be welded.
The Roadmaster chassis has been designed to provide exceptional balance, handling and braking characteristics. The Roadmaster rear engine chassis is an engine and frame unit featuring a semi-monocoque tubular all steel
frame design, providing greater structural integrity and more uniform stress
distribution. Incorporated in the Roadmaster chassis is the exclusive air glide
suspension system using eight outboard mounted air
bags and shock absorbers. The design and set up is
intended to provide the smoothest ride, best handling
and trouble free service, while delivering top notch
drivability. The chassis will also incorporate a three
point hydraulic leveling system or air leveling system. The Roadmaster chassis design offers unsurpassed ease of maintenance and service.
The towing system incorporated in the construction of the frame is rated at 10,000 lbs towing and
1,000 lbs tongue weight.
The Roadmaster’s exclusive cushion air glide suspension consists of front and rear axles with leading
and trailing arms in a parallel four link arrangement.
A panhard bar is provided for each axle to control
side motion. Each axle is mounted to a wide platform
H-frame which carries the coach body on eight out
board mounted air bags (4 front and 4 rear). Each of
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the eight air bags is coupled with a Magnum gas shock absorber. The suspension control arms are attached to the frame through bushings, which require no
lubrication.
The suspension ride height is preset and will maintain the proper ride height
automatically, regardless of the load.

AIR SUPPLY
SYSTEM

AIR GOVERNOR

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The air compressing system on the motorhome is comprised of several
items: an air compressor, air governor, air dryer, a front air tank and a rear air
tank. The compressed air system operates several items, some of which include
brakes, suspension, air horns, air gauge and stepwell cover. The air system is
charged by a gear driven air compressor mounted on the engine. As engine
speed increases, compressed air output increases. When the air is compressed,
heat is generated. Heat dissipates as the air is discharged from the compressor.
Moisture condenses in the compressed air as it cools. The moisture laden air
then enters an air dryer where the air is filtered. The filtered air charges the
front air tank. The front air tank is divided in two halves: a wet side and a dry
side. The compressed air enters the wet side before entering the dry side. A
discharge line from the dry side of the front air tank charges the rear air tank.
The discharge lines use inline check valves to prevent back flow of compressed
air.
The pneumatically operated items are divided into two categories: brakes
and accessory air. Brakes have full use of supplied air pressure. Accessory air
items such as air horns or stepwell covers receive air through pressure protection valves (PPV). The PPV will not allow compressed air flow until approximately 60 psi. In the event of an air system problem the pressure protection
valve will leave a reserve air charge for braking. Pressure protection valves are
installed for safety.
The air governor is located in the engine compartment. The air
governor performs two functions: regulating the air compressor to
cut-in and cut-out keeping the air system in the specified operating
range of 105-120 psi; sending an air “purge” signal to the Air Dryer.
Cut-in pressure of approximately 105 psi is factory preset from the
governor manufacturer and is not adjustable. Cut-out pressure is calibrated to 120 psi. When cut-out pressure is reached the governor will
send an air purge signal to the Air Dryer. This opens the purge port of
the Air Dryer, expelling moisture. The purge action of the Air Dryer
is identified by the short release of air at the rear of the motorhome.

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The air dryer is located under the motorhome next to the transmission.
The air dryer removes moisture from the compressed air system. This is
important because if air contains moisture it can freeze and prevent operation of brakes or other pneumatic operated items.
The air dryer has three functions: cooling, filtering and drying the air
going through the motorhome’s air system. If an excessive amount of water
is present when performing the monthly air tank drain service it may be an
indication that the filter for the air dryer needs to be changed.

During system pressure build-up compressed air passes into the air dryer
where the filter system removes contaminants and passes the air into the drying stage. Initially, moisture that condenses out collects in the base of the
dryer. Moisture-laden air passes through the desiccant bed in the air dryer
cartridge and is dried. When the compressor unloads, the water is expelled
and the dry air flows back through the dryer, drying the desiccant for the
next cycle.
The governor turns the compressor on when supply tank pressure drops
below cut-in pressure. Compressed air passes into the air dryer at the inlet
port:

AIR DRYER

Air Dryer Operation

Air Dryer Cycle

• Moisture-laden air and contaminants pass through the desiccant.
• Moisture is retained by the desiccant. Moisture also collects in the base
of the dryer.
When the compressor unloads the purge valve opens. The governor turns
the compressor off when the system reaches cutout pressure (approximately
120 psi).
• The dryer purges and expels water collected in the dryer base.
• When the regeneration valve opens, the dry system air flows back
through the dryer. A small charge of air from the front tank backflows
through the filter. The backflow dries the desiccant, preparing it for the next
cycle.

1. When air is compressed the compressor takes in water vapor with the
air, compresses the water vapor and puts it into the system as liquid
water.
2. Liquid water that accumulates in air lines can damage seals and valves
and wash away lubricants.
3. In cold weather water can freeze, block air lines and damage air
system components.

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Importance of the
Air Dryer

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Desiccant-Type
Air Dryer

1. Warm, humid air from the compressor condenses into either
liquid water or water vapor before entering the air dryer.
2. A desiccant-type air dryer protects the motorhome air
brake system brake drying moisture-laden air before it
passes through the air reservoirs and into the brake system.
3. Water collects in the base of the dryer when warm air
condenses into water before it enters the dryer, or inside
of the dryer before the water reaches the desiccant.
4. The desiccant material then removes additional water
vapor, further drying the air.
5. During the regeneration phase, the regeneration valve and
pressure controlled check valve remove water from the
desiccant bed with a backflow of dried, expanded system
air.
Air Dryer Components:
1. Purge Valve: A valve located on the bottom of the air
dryer base that remains open during a compressor unload
cycle. The purge valve allows collected moisture, condensation and contaminants to be expelled from the air dryer
during a purge cycle.
2. Pressure Relief Valve: A valve that protects the air
dryer from over pressurization.
3. Regeneration Valve: The valve that controls regeneration of the desiccant. The regeneration valve allows air
from the supply and secondary tanks to bypass the outlet
check valve. The air expands and backflushes moisture off
the desiccant through the dryer’s purge valve.

2

3
1

In extreme cold, make sure the air dryer heater is in good
working order. The heater in the air dryer is a 100-watt heater
controlled by ignition power and turned off when the ignition
is switched off. Thermostat operating range is on below 45° F
and off when the temp is above 86° F. The fuse is located in
the front electrical bay outside, beneath the front roadside
window.

WARNING: Remove all pressure from the air system before disconnecting any component, including the desiccant cartridge.
Pressurized air can cause serious personal injury.

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1. Replacement kit contains one cartridge and one O-ring.
2. Loosen and remove the old cartridge. Use strap wrench, if necessary.
3. Remove and discard the O-ring from the dryer base.
4. Inspect and clean the seal seat. Repair any minor damage.

Desiccant Cartridge

NOTE: If the seats are damaged so badly that a tight
seal cannot be maintained, replace the air dryer.
5. Lubricate the O-ring on the stem with a thin layer of grease.
6. Lubricate the cartridge seal with a thin layer of grease.
7. Thread the replacement cartridge onto the base until the seal
touches the base. Tighten the cartridge ONE additional turn.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.

REPLACEMENT REQUIREMENTS
Components

Desiccant
Cartridge

When to replace

Why

Preventive maintenance.
Contaminated cartridge.
Every two to three years. When
Satruated or contaminated
compressor is replaced. Water
cartridge, high duty cycle
in supply tank.
(wrong application of air
dryer).

1. O - Ring
2. Seal Seat
3. Seal

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AIR STORAGE
TANKS

The front and rear air tanks should be manually drained once a month, or
more, depending on operating conditions where humidity is high. The front air
tank has a drain valve for both the wet and dry side. The rear air tank only has
one drain valve. Open the drain valves until all air is purged from tanks,
allowing five extra minutes for moisture to be expelled. Remember to close the
tank drain valves. Both air tanks have a pressure relief valve which is set to
approximately 130 psi.

AIR COUPLER UNIVERSAL

Provided for convenience is a remote air supply coupler. This is located in
the roadside LP gas compartment. This universal female fitting will accept several types of 1/4” ID male air fittings, including type C automotive. This auxiliary air fitting may be used to inflate tires, air mattresses or other pneumatic
items.
To use this feature:
• Remove the plastic protective dust cap.
• Using a firm grip, insert the air fitting into auxiliary air
supply. The locking collar is spring loaded and will lock
automatically when the fitting is properly inserted.
To remove fitting:
• With firm grip hold air hose near fitting to prevent
recoil.
• Slide the locking collar back to release fitting. The collar will lock into the open position when fully retracted.
• Replace protective dust cap when finished.
This fitting is not designed to charge the air system on the motorhome. The
air supply for the auxiliary air fitting is charged from the front air tank through
a pressure protection valve. Due to the small air pressure restriction of the
pressure protection valve, maximum supply pressure is approximately 95 psi
with air system on the motorhome charged to 120 psi.

AIR SYSTEM - CHARGING
(EXTERNAL)

The air system on the motorhome can be charged from an external air supply source. Located in the roadside electrical compartment
is a type C automotive male fitting. Caution should be used when
charging the air system from this fitting. The air supplied from an
external source may contain moisture. Compressed air introduced
into the air system on the motorhome from this fitting is not filtered
by the air dryer. The auxiliary air charge fitting will charge the front
and rear air tanks. A check valve is installed to prevent backflow of
compressed air from escaping.

CAUTION: The external air supply source should be
regulated to charge the air system on the motorhome
no higher than 120 psi. Damage to the air system or
pneumatically operated items may occur.
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The ride height valves inflate or deflate the air bags keeping the
motorhome at proper suspension height throughout the load range. There are
three ride height control valves used on the motorhome. Two are used on the
rear drive axle, these control rear suspension height and left or right tilt of
the motorhome. Only one valve is used to control front axle suspension
height. The ride height control valves are mounted to the main frame of the
motorhome just above the axles. Each valve has a linkage rod connected the
axle. The valves make small air adjustments to the air springs while traveling. Amount of system air used depends on the type of roadway surface and
driving styles.
Should it become necessary to check suspension ride height start with air
system fully charged and suspension at normal height. Motorhome must be
on a flat level surface. Suspension height distance is measured from the top
of the H-Frame to the bottom of the Main Frame Rail. Specified distances
may vary plus or minus 1/4”. Small adjustments to the rear valves may be
necessary to compensate for slight tilt. Example: Adjusting curbside rear
height control valve up will pivot roadside front corner down.

RIDE HEIGHT
VALVES
Adjusting

NOTE: Driveline angle is affected by the suspension ride
height. Improper driveline angle can damage suspension or
shorten life of universal joints. Shock absorbers and air springs
are in travel centers at proper ride height.
To adjust suspension ride height begin with:
• Motorhome on flat level surface.
• Air system fully charged.
• Suspension at normalized ride height.
Begin with front control valve. Loosen the
adjusting locknut at the eccentric slot on the valve.
Move the plastic arm up to raise suspension height,
this will inflate air springs. Move the plastic arm
down to lower suspension height, this will deflate
air springs. Make small increment adjustments.
When desired height is obtained insert a 1/8” or
7/64” inch twist drill bit into the plastic arm and
valve body. This will central travel of internal piston. Tighten adjusting locknut between 60-80 in/lbs.
Check adjustments made by using Air Dump switch
to deflate air springs. Start engine to allow air
system to become fully charged. Allow suspension
to adjust and come to a neutral setting. Re-check
suspension height measurement. Follow same procedure for rear control valves. Re-check the front
suspension height when adjustments are made to
rear height control valves.

Checking Ride Height

Measurement for the Windsor:
Front = 9 ½ in., Rear = 11 in.

NOTE: Do not modify length of the linkage rods. Make necessary adjustments using eccentric slot on ride height control
valve.
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SUSPENSION AIR
RIDE BAGS

Air ride springs are available in single, double and triple convolution types
plus reversible sleeve models for virtually every conceivable heavy-duty vehicle suspension application.
1. STUD. Manufactured as a permanent part of bead plate
assembly for maximum strength and durability. Used to
attach spring to vehicle's suspension.
2. BEAD PLATE. Crimped onto bellows at factory for a
durable design and maximum quality control. Allows
100% leak proof testing prior to shipment.
3. BELLOWS. "Air bag" includes four plies of material:
inner layer, two plies of cord-reinforced fabric and an
outer cover. Natural rubber construction provides functional properties to - 65º F.
4. BUMPERS. A solid rubber or engineered plastic device
designed to prevent significant damage to vehicle or
suspension in event of a sudden loss of air pressure in
spring.
5. PISTON. Provides a lower mounting arrangement for
air spring. Controls characteristics of spring under
changing pressure loads.
6. PISTON BOLT. Attaches piston to bellows.
Sometimes extended as a means of attaching spring to
vehicle suspension.

Checklist Air Bag Inspection

Listed below are items that can be checked when the motorhome is in for
periodic maintenance.
NOTE: Never attempt to service the air suspension on a
motorhome with the air bags inflated.
• Inspect the O.D. of the air springs. Check for signs of
irregular wear or heat cracking.
• Inspect the air lines to make sure contact doesn’t exist
between the air line and the O.D. of the air springs. Air
lines can rub a hole in an air spring very quickly.
• Check to see that there is sufficient clearance around the
complete circumference of the air spring while at its
maximum diameter.
• Inspect the O.D. of piston for buildup of foreign materials. (On a reversible sleeve style air spring the piston is
the bottom component of the air spring.)
• The correct ride height should be maintained. All
motorhomes with air springs have a specified ride height
established by the manufacturer. This height should be

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maintained within 1/4”. This dimension can be
checked with the vehicle loaded or empty.
• The leveling valves (or height control valves) play a
large part in ensuring that the total air spring system
works as required. Clean, inspect and replace if necessary.
• Make sure to check shock absorbers for leaking
hydraulic oil and worn or broken end connectors. If a
broken shock is found, replace it immediately. The
shock absorber will normally limit the rebound of an
air spring and keep it from overextending.
• Check the tightness of all mounting hardware (nuts
and bolts). If loose, tighten. Do not over-tighten.
Cleaning
The approved cleaning method is to use soap and water, methyl alcohol,
ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. Unapproved cleaning methods include
all organic solvents, open flames, abrasives and direct pressurized steam
cleaning.

The motorhome is equipped with air brakes using much the same system
as over the road trucks. This type of braking system is very efficient. Proper
maintenance and lubrication is the key to keeping your brake system in proper working order. The brake system on the motorhome is designed to accommodate the weight of the vehicle and towing loads. This system differs from
conventional automotive hydraulic braking system and should be treated differently.
When operating a vehicle equipped with air brakes considerations need to
be given to stopping distances and air system pressures. The heavier the
vehicle the greater the kinetic energy. The motorhome requires longer stopping distances. Each brake application uses air from the air system. Give
attention to the air gauge as well as the surroundings. Engine speed is directly proportional to how fast the air system is replenished. Prepare for downhill
grades. Grades are generally posted in percentages. It may be necessary to
select a lower gear. Make use of the engine or exhaust brake. When making
brake applications use individual short applications down long hills rather
than “riding” the brakes. This will extend the life of the brake linings. Avoid
overheating the brakes. Hot brakes have less stopping power. When maneuvering the motorhome around in small areas, or backing into spaces, several
individual brake applications might be made. Watch the air gauge. Plan
ahead when parking to make it easier on yourself. When preparing to back
into a space, swing the motorhome so it is aligned with the parking slot
before backing up.
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BRAKE SYSTEMS
- AIR BRAKES

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The air braking system on the motorhome is equipped with several safety
features unlike that of automotive hydraulic braking systems. One safety feature is a low air pressure warning system. Should a low air condition arise
while the vehicle is under operation, a warning buzzer will sound and a dash
warning light will illuminate alerting the operator of the situation. This warning occurs at approximately 60-65 psi (pounds per square inch).
A simple mechanical explanation of what occurs when a brake application
is made is as follows: The air system supplies air to the foot brake, this is
called a treadle valve. Pushing down on the treadle valve supplies an air
charge signal to a brake chamber. This sealed chamber consists of a spring
and air bladder. The air charge signal pushes on the bladder which extends a
threaded rod connected to the automatic slack adjuster. The slack adjuster
rotates the S-cam expanding the shoes against the drum. Air disc brakes follow much the same principal, with the exception of the S-cams.

BRAKE PARK &
EMERGENCY
SYSTEMS

The park and emergency brake systems are combined and apply to the
rear drive axle only. These are called spring brakes. When the park brake is
applied air is released from the rear brake chambers allowing the large spring
in each rear brake chamber to manually push against the automatic slack
adjuster. This rotates the S-cam applying the brake shoes against the drum.
The air system charged above 35 psi is approximately the point at which the
park brake will remain released. Pushing down on the park brake handle
charges the rear brake chambers with air pressure, overriding the emergency
brake springs and releasing the brakes. In the event of air loss while the vehicle is under operation, the park brake will automatically apply, (this occurs at
approximately 30 psi) acting as an automatic emergency brake system.
When preparing to depart, allow the air system to achieve full air pressure. This is indicated by the air gauge needles. Listen for the air dryer to
purge, indicating full air pressure has been obtained and air dryer is functioning. Look and listen for any abnormalities. Abnormal air pressure readings
by either needle of the air gauge should alert the operator. Have the air system checked to avoid an untimely failure.
Should a failure occur in the air system, preventing the air pressure from
building, it may become necessary to “cage” the spring brakes. This is an
emergency procedure only. Caging the rear air brake chambers manually
overrides the spring brakes and allows the vehicle to move. This procedure
does not affect normal service braking. The brake disabling procedure is
located in Section 2.
NOTE When park brake is released park illumination lamp will
remain lit until air system pressure is above 65 psi.

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The motorhome is equipped with automatic slack adjusters. As
brake linings wear the slack adjusters will automatically ratchet on the
return stroke as needed. This ratchet action will keep the brake linings
at proper adjustment. Brake adjustment should not be necessary.
Indications of a vehicle needing a possible brake adjustment may be
noticed by the park brake not holding on a hill or gradual loss of braking power. Automatic slack adjusters and the connecting S-camshaft
require periodic lubrication.

BRAKE ADJUSTMENT/
SLACK ADJUSTMENT

NOTE: Replacement parts should be of the same original equipment size and type. Mixing brake components may result in
unequal braking action. Brake adjustments are part of normal
maintenance of the motorhome. Brake adjustments are not covered by Monaco Coach.
WARNING: Brake lining may contain asbestos material and
should only be serviced by qualified service technicians who are
trained in the appropriate precautionary procedures. If any loss
of braking effectiveness or abnormal braking indications are
noticed, the brakes and slack adjusters should be inspected by a
qualified brake technician.
The motorhome is equipped with an anti-lock braking system (ABS).
The ABS system monitors wheel rotation speeds by using a 100 tooth magnetic tone ring mounted to the hub. Revolving with the wheel, the magnetic
tone ring is polarized giving positive and negative pulsations. A stationary
sensor is mounted adjacent to the tone ring monitoring the magnetic pulses.
The pulses are monitored by the ABS electronic control unit (ECU).
The ECU monitors all available wheel sensors at the rate of 100 times
per second. The ECU controls Pressure Modulator Valves. Pressure
Modulator Valves have two electric over air solenoids, a hold solenoid and a
release solenoid. The modulator valves are open under normal braking,
allowing a straight through air signal from the treadle valve to the brake
chamber. Should a wheel lose traction under a braking application, the ECU
will energize the hold solenoid of the Pressure Modulator Valve to interrupt
the air signal from the treadle valve to the brake chamber, while the release
solenoid vents the existing air signal to the atmosphere allowing the skidding
tire to regain traction. Skidding tires have less tractive efficiency. It is possible, under certain conditions, to have the wheel(s) skid with a normal functioning ABS system.
The ABS itself does not apply additional braking power. The purpose of
the ABS is limiting brake torque to prevent wheel locking that results in the
loss of lateral stability and increased stopping distances. Cautious driving
practices and maintaining adequate safe distances when following vehicles is
the key to safe vehicle operation.

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ABS SYSTEM -

(Anti-Lock Brakes)

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ABS Component Function:
• Speed sensors and tone rings on each wheel monitor
wheel rotation.
• Each speed sensor communicates wheel rotation pulses to the Electronic Control Unit.
• ECU receives the speed sensor inputs, interprets the
signal pulses, calculates speed and acceleration rates
of each wheel.
• Based on the speed sensor input, the ECU detects
impending wheel lock and operates the ABS
Modulator Valves required for proper control. The
Modulator Valves can be operated in the air, release
or hold modes to regulate air pressure to the brake
chambers.
• The braking force is applied at a level which minimizes the stopping distances while maintaining as
much lateral stability as possible.
ABS Warning Light:
The ABS will perform a diagnostic indicator lamp check and self diagnostic test
each time the ignition is switched to the on
position. The ABS dash indicator light will
illuminate momentarily (2.2 seconds) verifying the self check test. If the ABS indicator light remains on, or illuminates while
the motorhome is being operated, there is a
fault in the antilock brake system only. This
fault will not affect normal service braking.
The motorhome will need to go to a service
center to repair the problem.
ABS Blink Code:
The ABS dash indicator light can be
used to obtain system faults by displaying a
blink code.
To retrieve blink code(s)
• Turn ignition key to the
ON position.
• Using Systems
Diagnostic Center located
left of steering column
below dashboard, depress
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and hold test button for three seconds. Indicator light
will illuminate while test button is depressed.
• After releasing test button, indicator lamp will turn
off and blink code will be displayed: 1-1 will indicate no system faults.

The motorhome air braking system is equipped with several back-up
safety systems and warning alarms in the event of an air system failure.
Refinements to air braking systems have been instituted with safety as top
priority. For example: should the air compressor fail to charge the air system
and the low air gauge readings go undetected, a low air pressure warning
buzzer will sound and low air pressure dash warning indicator lamp will illuminate. These warning indicators occur at approximately 65 psi. This will
alert the operator of an impending situation. If the motorhome is allowed
continued operation the pneumatic emergency spring brake relay valve
installed in the air system senses the low air pressure condition. The emergency spring brake relay valve will release the air charge from the spring
brake air chambers on the rear drive axle. In this case the park brakes will
automatically apply at approximately 30 psi. This safety back-up system acts
as an automatic emergency brake system.
Another back up safety is the air system separation of the front and rear
brakes, implemented by using two air tanks. One tank is located in the front
and the other is located in the rear. This separation allows the front air tank
to operate the front brake. The rear tank operates the rear drive axle brakes
and tag axle brakes if equipped with a tag axle. This tank division gives
reassurance in the event of one tank having a failure of an accessory air item
allowing the compressed air to escape. Accessory air items are other
pneumatically operated items such as the air horn, step well cover, vacuum,
generator, etc. The accessory air items operate only when air tank pressures
exceed 65 psi. This is done with pressure protection valves. Should an
accessory air item fail, the pressure protection valve (PPV) will reserve
remaining air pressure of 65 psi for braking. This will leave the motorhome
with one air tank fully charged for a safety back up.
Another situation, in which all compressed air has escaped from the rear
air tank, a pneumatic back-up safety valve is installed. This is the safety
inversion valve. The inversion valve senses the absence of rear air tank
pressure. In this case the inversion valve will allow the operator to make a
modulated spring brake application, made in conjunction with the emergency
spring brake relay valve. The inversion valve allows the front air tank
pressure to recharge the rear brake chambers after the modulated spring
brake application has been made. This back-up system allows use of all the
brakes, allowing the operator to bring the vehicle to a safe stop. In the event
of all compressed air charge escaping from the front air tank the operator
will still have full use of the rear brakes.

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BRAKE SYSTEMS Back Up

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ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
The correct wheel alignment promotes longer tire wear and ease of
handling while minimizing the strain
on the steering system and the axle
components.
Camber:
Camber, as shown below, is vertical tilt of wheel as viewed from the
front of the vehicle. This is machined
into the axle when manufactured and
is not adjustable.
• “Positive” camber is an outward tilt
of the wheel at the top.
• “Negative” camber is an inward tilt
of the wheel at the top.

Toe Setting:
The toe setting represents different distances between the front and
rear of the tires (measured at the vertical centerline of the tires).
Toe-in occurs when the tire front
distance is less than the tire rear distance.
Toe-out occurs when the tire front
distance is greater than the tire rear
distance.
Wheels are generally set with initial toe-in. As the vehicle operates,
tires tend toward a toe-out condition.
By starting with an initial toe-in setting a desirable “near zero toe-in” can
be achieved when the vehicle is in
motion.
Incorrect toe settings, where toedin or toed-out, can have a significant
effect on tire wear. The toe setting is
adjusted by lengthening or shortening
the cross tube.
The toe setting is .03 degree.
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Caster Adjustments:
Caster is the fore and aft tilt (toward the front or rear of the motorhome)
of the steering kingpin as viewed from the side of the motorhome.
“Positive” caster is the tilt of the top end of the kingpin toward the rear of
the motorhome.
“Negative” caster is the tilt of the top end of the kingpin toward the front
of the motorhome.
A caster angle more positive than specified may result in excessive steering effort and/or shimmy. An angle less positive may result in vehicle wander or poor steering return to center. The caster angle is determined by the
installed position of the steer axle.

Camber
Caster
Toe

Left Front
Min.
Nominal
-0.35°
-0.15°
2.00°
3.00°
-0.05°
-0.02°

Max
-0.65°
4.00°
-0.08°

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Camber
Caster
Toe

Right Front
Min. Nominal Max
-0.35°
-0.15°
-0.65°
2.00°
3.00°
4.00°
-0.05°
-0.02°
-0.08°

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SHOCK
ABSORBER

The shock absorber by definition is a hydraulic device used to dampen
suspension/body movement. The road surface irregularities or roughness is
compensated for by the shock absorber. The roadmaster chassis incorporates
the “Gas Magnum” shock in the design of the exclusive air glide suspension
system. This shock absorber is a telescopic, monotubed unit filled with nitrogen gas and hydraulic oil. The result of the mixture is uninterrupted damping
for the smallest of wheel deflections.
By design, a self lubricating seal is used which will allow approximately
10% of the total oil capacity to pass onto the piston rod. The gradual process
of oil loss does not affect the performance of the shock absorber during the
service life. This process will be evident after a long period of service by an
oil film on the body of the shock absorber. The appearance of a coating or
film on the body or rod is completely normal, it is an indication the shock is
functioning normally.
The road holding, handling, balance and braking characteristics all can
be contributed to the shock absorber. A visual check or inspection is recommended for obvious damage. The key check will be driving; any noticeable
changes in the ride of the motorhome, a lean in the motorhome or excessive
bouncing may be caused by a worn shock. The operating conditions for
which the shock absorber must endure will determine the life span.

Normal shock absorber
appearance after long service period.

LEVELING SYSTEM
Hydraulic Leveling
System (RVA)

The three point leveling system features a multiple warning system with
flashing light and a bong alarm to alert you of the jack position. The system
also features a remote control panel located next to the driver seat. The torsion stress is significantly reduced during proper operating procedures.
Damage resulting from improper procedures can range from windshield
damage to entry doors jamming.
The model 35 J-II leveling system pump is located curbside front with
easy access from the generator door. The valve assembly manifold is mounted on the the pump motor, providing easy access to the manual retract
valves. The system is designed to be self bleeding in the event any component of the hydraulics has been removed or repaired. Fully extend and retract
each jack twice. The remote rocker switches will operate with a minimum of
7.5 vdc. Optimum requirements for operating the system are voltages above
9.6 vdc.

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NOTE: The leveling system jacks are not designed for use in
changing tires. This can cause problems with the suspension system, frame alignment and damage to the windshields.

When leveling the motorhome, always lower the front jack first. The front
jack acts as a pivot point for chassis and reduces torsion stress on the body of
the motorhome.

Manual Leveling

NOTE: In the event the front of the motorhome is high and does
not require elevating, it will be necessary to raise front of
motorhome a minimum of 1/2 inch to allow jacks to act as a
pivot point.
The leveling system was designed to reduce site selection problems. If
possible, park the motorhome with the front facing downhill. If the ground
is soft, place a wooden 2 x 8 board under the foot of each jack pad to prevent
sinking.
The front jack will be the pivot point for the chassis and is always lowered first. This reduces the torsion stress on the body of the motorhome. The
Bong alarm will activate when any jack is extended more than 2” to 6” from
fully retracted position and will indicate low fluid level for the pump motor.
The Bong alarm may momentarily activate when driving over rough roads,
or negotiating curves and corners. Usually this indicates low fluid level.
NOTE: Air will automatically dump from air bags when leveling
cycle begins. This will lower the motorhome and require less
extension by the jacks. To expedite the air dumping, the
motorhome is equipped with a manual air bag release switch
located on the dash panel.

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To Level Motorhome:
• If applicable place the gear selector in neutral, apply the parking brake and
shut off the engine.
• Turn the ignition switch to the ON position without the engine running.
• Turn the right hand rocker power switch on the jack control console to the
“ON” position. The green light should be lit.
Rocker switch positions are as follows:
Front - System ON.
Center - System OFF.
Rear - Returns all jacks automatically to their retracted positions.
• Indicator light functions are as follows:
Green Light - Indicates system is ON.
Flashing red Light - Indicates jack(s) is extended.
Flashing yellow Light - Indicates jack(s) is retracted.
• Level motorhome, using the front jack first, so that the bubble is centered
in the level indicator. Push the rocker switch to extend or retract a particular jack as marked on control panel. The red light should be flashing.
When level, turn the rocker power switch and ignition switch off.
To Retract Jacks For Travel:
• Turn the ignition switch to the ON position without the engine running.
• Position the right hand rocker power switch in the rear “Retract All” position. All jacks should retract, the yellow light should start flashing and the
red light should go out when all jacks are retracted.
• Place the jack control in the center position to turn the leveling system off.
• Start the engine and allow the air pressure to build up to normal.
• Visually check each jack to make sure they are completely retracted before
moving the motorhome.
CAUTION: Do not rely solely upon warning lights. It is the operator’s responsibility to check that the motorhome is at the proper
ride height before moving the motorhome.

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To Retract Jacks Using Manual Emergency Hand Valves At Pump:
In the event of mechanical or electrical failure that would prevent the leveling jacks from being automatically retracted, the motorhome is equipped
with manual emergency retract valves. These valves are located inside the
front generator access on the hydraulic pump.
This manual system will release fluid under pressure in each jack and
allow fluid to return to the reservoir. The jacks will then retract.
To operate the manual system turn all three valves counterclockwise until
they stop. Once the jacks are fully retracted, rotate all the valves fully clockwise. In the event one of the jacks is not holding pressure, check the position
of the retract valve.

NOTE: Do not move the motorhome until the jacks are fully
retracted.
CAUTION: The motorhome will raise or lower as the bypass
valves are opened. Do not crawl under the motorhome to access
the valves. Make sure there is ample room to open the valves
safely.
Maintenance:
Occasionally, while the jacks are fully extended, wipe dirt from the jack
rod. This will help lengthen the life of the jacks. This can vary from the
amount and type of usage of the jacks. Dexron III will serve as a solvent as
well as a lubricant. Occasional oil or grease on the extended jack ram is normal and aids in the lubrication of the ram. It helps to learn the sound of the
normal pumping and gurgling sounds of the pump when it is low on fluid.

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Adding Fluid:
1. An indication of a system needing fluid is a chime sounding when
turning corners. Use Dexron III automatic transmission fluid.
2. Extend any jack 6 inches from the full retracted position. All other
jacks should be fully retracted.
3. Unscrew the reservoir cap from the top of the pump.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Turn the power ON rocker switch. Open the window so the bong alarm is audible from outside the motorhome. Slowly fill the reservoir with fluid until the bong
alarm stops sounding.
5. Replace the reservoir cap.
6. Turn the ignition switch and the remote panel OFF.

LEVELING SYSTEM A touch panel, computer controlled, four point or six point air leveling
- AIR (OPTIONAL) system is optional on all models. Models which are equipped with the air

leveling system must remember the ignition has to be ON for the suspension
to operate. This is critical to note in the event the motorhome requires emergency towing.
Automatic Air Leveling:
• Air leveling will operate faster if engine is running.
• Set parking brake.
• Transmission must be in neutral. (Important: No movement in
motorhome while leveling.)
• Press AIR button once to enter air mode. AIR indicator light and four
AIR BAG warning lights will glow steady.
• Press AIR button a second time. AIR indicator light will start flashing
and air leveling will begin.
• When all four yellow LEVEL SENSING lights are out leveling is complete. AIR indicator light will stop flashing and turn steady red.
Processor is now in a SLEEP MODE for 30 minutes. Engine may
now be turned off. Every 30 minutes processor will check
motorhome’s level condition, make any corrections and return to

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SLEEP MODE. This will continue until system is turned off by
pushing OFF button or transmission is taken out of neutral position
and parking brake released.
Excess Slope:
If system was unable to level motorhome, one or two yellow LEVEL
SENDING indicator lights will remain on and EXCESS SLOPE light will
come on. System will remain on but will not go into SLEEP MODE.
Manual Air Leveling Operation:
• Air leveling will operate faster if engine is running.
• Set parking brake.
• Transmission must be in neutral.
• Press the AIR button once. AIR indicator light will glow steady.
• Individual RAISE and LOWER buttons (UP or DOWN ARROWS)
will add or dump air from suspension air bags to raise or lower coach
for leveling.
• These are momentary buttons. Function will stop when button is
released. Yellow LEVEL lights indicate a side, end or corner of
motorhome is low. Lower opposite side or end of motorhome to
achieve leveling. If a level position cannot be achieved by dumping
air, raise motorhome according to lighted yellow LEVEL lights.
• IMPORTANT: Always give preference to any side light before leveling motorhome front to rear.
• Turn ignition switch OFF. Turn air leveling system OFF.

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Air LevelingTraveling
Preparation

Start engine and allow air pressure to build to recommended pressure for
travel. Push system OFF button and allow motorhome to return to travel
position. All red indicator lights must be OFF and travel indicator light must
be lighted before traveling. Ensure that the motorhome is at the proper ride
height before moving. DO NOT solely rely upon the warning lights.
CAUTION: Do not rely solely upon warning lights. It is the
operator’s responsibility to check that the motorhome is at the
proper ride height before moving the motorhome.

ENGINE GENERAL
INFORMATION

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The diesel engine operates differently from the conventional gasoline
engine. Gasoline engines control engine speed using a butterfly throttle plate
controlling air/fuel mixture inlet flow. As the throttle plate opens, vacuum
created by the piston velocity draws the metered fuel/air charge into the combustion chamber, then ignited from a controlled electric ignition source.
Closing the throttle plate limits the fuel/air supply, slowing engine speed,
increasing intake manifold vacuum.
The diesel engine in the motorhome controls engine speed by varying fuel
supply only. No throttle plates are used. An exhaust driven turbine system
(turbocharger) compresses the fresh air supply into the engine. The fuel is
injected under pressure into the combustion chamber. Ignition of fuel/air
charge occurs from heat generated by rapid high compression. The turbo
boost gauge registers amount of intake manifold compression measured in
lbs./in². Therefore, no intake manifold vacuum exists.
Diesel engine RPM (revolutions per minute) operating speeds are generally much lower than that of the gasoline engine. Peak torque and horsepower
output values occur at much lower engine speeds. Idle speeds between the
two engine types are similar, however maximum engine speeds are quite
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different. The gasoline engine generally is not regulated to a maximum
engine speed. The maximum engine speed on a diesel engine is controlled by
an engine speed governor set by the engine manufacturer.
WARNING: Do not operate a diesel engine where there are or
can be combustible vapors. Vapors can be drawn through air
intake system and cause engine acceleration and over-speeding,
resulting in fire, explosion and extensive property damage.
Numerous safety devices are available, such as air intake shutoff
devices, to minimize risk of over-speeding where an engine (due
to its application) might operate in a combustible environment,
such as fuel spills or gas leaks. Equipment owner and operator is
responsible for safe operation of engine. Consult your engine
authorized repair location for future information.

The maintenance guidelines found in the Cummins O & M manual is
recommended for the engine. When followed it will help with a longer life,
better performance and more cost efficient operations. A good maintenance
schedule begins with a daily awareness of the engine and its various systems.
The engine is equipped with an intake manifold grid heater. The grid
heater helps engine starting in cold weather. Intake manifold air temperature
is monitored by the Electronic Control Module on the engine. If intake
manifold temperature is below specified level (approximately 40º F.)
manifold grid heater will be activated. Grid heater activation is indicated by
the WAIT TO START indicator lamp.

ISC ENGINE

WARNING: Use of ether starting fluids may cause an explosion
upon grid heater activation.

With throttle in idle position turn ignition to the ON position allowing
WAIT TO START lamp to extinguish. Turn key to the start position. When
the engine is started the grid heater will again energize for a time period
determined by the intake air temperature and the fuel temperature. Allow
engine to idle with no load for 3-5 minutes. The engine coolant temperature
should be up to normal operating range (140º F / 60 º C to 212º F / 100º C)
before operating engine under full throttle.

ENGINE STARTING
PROCEDURE

NOTE: It is not recommended to idle the engine for long periods
of time. This will simply waste fuel and annoy neighbors.
Consistent periods of long idle may cause damage to the engine.

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COLD WEATHER
STARTING
PROCEDURE

The engine block heater may need to be plugged in 2 to 3 hours prior to
starting. The engine block heater is rated at 1500 watts, 110 Volts AC and
requires the motorhome be plugged into shore power or have the generator
running. It is not necessary to leave the block heater plugged in for long periods of time. The block heater requires about 13 amps to operate.

OIL
RECOMMENDATIONS
(ENGINE)

The maintenance guidelines found in the Cummins O & M manual is
recommended for the engine. When followed it will help with a longer
life, better performance and more cost efficient operations. A good maintenance schedule begins with a daily awareness of the engine and its various systems.
A high grade 15W-40 multiviscosity heavy duty lubricating oil meeting Cummins Engineering Specification CES 20071 or CES 20076,
American Petroleum Institute (API) specification CH-4 which can be
used as an alternative to CES 20071 is recommended. Lubricating oils
meeting API CG-4 specifications may be used at a reduced drain interval.
Monaco Coach uses Pennzoil 15W-40 heavy duty engine lubricating oil
that meets Cummins specifications. A critical factor in maintaining engine
performance and durability is the use of high grade multigrade lubricating
oil and strict adherence to the maintenance service intervals.
A straight weight or monograde lubricating oil is not recommended.
Shortened drain intervals may be required as determined by a close monitoring of the lubricating oil condition by means of a oil sampling program. The use of oil analysis to extend drain interval is not recommended. There are numerous variables which is the basis of the recommendation.
Synthetic oils API category III specifications are recommended for
extreme cold temperatures only.
Low viscosity oils used for winter operations will aid in starting.
Synthetic oils or oil with adequate low temperature properties used for
Arctic operations, where the engine can not be kept warm when shut
down, will aid in starting.
The use of synthetic oils should not be used to extend drain intervals.
Extended oil change intervals can decrease engine life and possibly affect
the engine warranty.
Oil additives should not be used unless the oil supplier or oil manufacturer has been consulted and provided positive evidence or data establishing satisfactory performance in the engine.
Oil Function of Engine Oil:
If a lubricating oil is to work in an engine it must be capable to perform various functions. Lubrication of the moving parts is the primary
function. The lubricating oil should be able to form a film between metal

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surfaces preventing metal to metal contact and reducing friction. When you
have a metal to metal contact, friction heat is generated. Welding of the part
can occur and metal transfer will result in scuffing or seizing. The film of oil
contacting the surfaces will provide cushioning and shock dampening as
well.
Cleaning is another function. The oil should perform as a cleaner in the
engine by flushing contaminates from critical components. These contaminates should be removed in the filtration system or during the course of an
oil change. Oil will provide a protective barrier to prevent corrosion of nonlike metals.
Internal components of the engine require cooling. The primary coolant
system cannot provide this cooling. Oil will transfer heat by contacting the
various components then transferring to the primary cooling system at the oil
cooler. The uneven surfaces are filled to react as a combustion seal within the
cylinder liner and other internal components.
Synthetic Engine Oil:
Extreme environments where ambient temperatures can be as low as
-45º C (50º F) a petroleum based oil will not perform satisfactorily in diesel
engines. Synthetic oils were developed for these type applications. These
synthetic oils are a blend from ester and/or hydrocarbon based oils. These
base oils are produced by chemically reacting lower molecular weight materials to manufacture lubricants of desired properties. All synthetic based oils
must meet the API category III classifications and SAE viscosity grades.
Synthetic oils and petroleum based oils should never be mixed.
Viscosity:
Viscosity is simply a measure of resistance of molecule layers moving
relative to an adjacent layer. All fluid viscosity are affected by temperature.
A multigrade lubricating oil tends to be less sensitive to temperature changes
due to formulation. Lubricating oils are generally selected for use with viscosities appropriate for the expected operating temperature. The correct
selection of a lubricating oil of correct viscosity is critical for optimum performance. Some effects of incorrect viscosity when the oil is too thick range
from difficulty in starting to increasing fuel consumption and reducing power
output. When the oil is too thin, oil consumption is increased as well as wear
from the metal to metal contact. This will also increase engine noise.
Low temperature viscosity specifications are identified by a “W” (winter).
High temperature viscosity that meets the 100º C (212º F) requirements have
no suffix. When a lubricating oil meets both high and low temperature
requirements they are classified as multi-viscosity or multigrade.

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Routine Maintenance Recommendations:
1. Check oil level daily.
2. Replace oil filter at every oil drain interval.
3. Cummins Engine Company, Inc. recommends the use of high quality,
API (American Petroleum Institute) licensed CH-4 or CES20071,
15W-40, multiviscosity oil or premium oil.
4. The recommended oil drain interval is defined by the API oil performance classification and the engine duty cycle. Refer to the Cummins
Operation and Maintenance Manual for complete details.

Oil
Recommendations
- Cold Weather

It is possible to operate diesel engines in extremely cold environments.
The engine should be properly prepared and maintained. The correct lubricants, fuels and coolant MUST be used for the cold weather range for which
the motorhome is being operated. Cold weather operation can be defined in
two categories: Winterize and Arctic.
NOTE: Refer to the Operations and Maintenance Manual for
more detailed information.
WINTERIZE (32º to -25º F) (0º to -32º C)
Use a 50 antifreeze / 50 water coolant mixture, use multi-viscosity oil
meeting Cummins specifications and fuel to have maximum cloud pour
points 10º F (6º C) lower than the ambient temperature in which the motor
home operates.
ARCTIC (-25º to -65º F) (-32º to -52º C)
Use a 60 percent antifreeze / 40 water coolant mixture, use oil meeting
Cummins specifications and fuel to have maximum cloud pour points 10º F
(6º C) lower than the ambient temperature in which the motorhome operates.

ENGINE
SHUTDOWN

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General guidelines for shutting the engine down are fairly simplistic.
Allow the engine to idle 3 to 5 minutes after a full load operation. This
allows adequate cool down of pistons, cylinders, bearings and turbocharger
components. Under normal driving conditions, exiting the highway is generally lighter engine operation and the need for the 3 to 5 minutes is not necessary.

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When the motorhome has been sitting for extended periods, 30 days or
more, verify all the fluid levels are correct. Follow the normal starting procedures. If the oil pressure gauge does not register within 15 seconds, shut off
the engine immediately to avoid damage. Consult the Cummins Operations
and Maintenance Manual for guidelines on troubleshooting low oil pressure,
or contact a qualified service technician. Allow the engine to idle for 3 to 5
minutes before operating under a load.

ENGINE
SHUTDOWN -

A fully formulated antifreeze or coolant containing a precharge of
Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCA) is recommended. The use of either
will significantly simplify coolant system maintenance. The difference
between a fully formatted antifreeze and a fully formatted coolant is the percentage of water. Both contain balance amounts of antifreeze, SCA, buffering
compounds and a percentage of good clean quality water. The antifreeze of
coolant must meet ethylene glycol or propylene glycol recommendations. A
good clean quality water in a 50/50 ratio (40 to 60 percent working range)
mixed with fully formatted antifreeze will provide protection from -34º F to
228º F. The 50/50 mix ratio must be premixed prior to being put in the system. Placing antifreeze and water in the cooling system is not recommended.
Consult the O&M manual for more details.

COOLANT

Extended

NOTE: An over concentration of antifreeze, or the use of high
silicate antifreeze, can cause damage to the coolant system and
engine. Antifreeze is essential in every climate.
The coolant fluid freeze point should be checked with every oil change
interval at 15,000 miles, 500 hours or 6 months, whichever comes first. Also
change the coolant filter at the same interval unless SCA concentration is
over three units. The coolant should be drained and flushed at 6000 hours or
2 years of service, whichever comes first.
Engine Coolant Reservoir:
A “see-through” plastic reservoir, similar to the familiar windshield washer jar, is connected to the radiator by a hose. As the motorhome is driven,
coolant is heated and expands. A portion of fluid displaced by this expansion
flows from the radiator into the reservoir tank. When the engine is stopped,
and coolant cools and contracts, displaced coolant is drawn back in the radiator by a vacuum. Thus, the radiator is kept filled with coolant to the desired
level at all times, resulting in increased cooling efficiency the coolant level
should be at or above the appropriate mark on the reservoir tank when the
system is cold.

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• Check the coolant level daily or when refueling.
• Drain and flush the coolant system every 60,000 miles or two years
and refill with a heavy-duty coolant (50/50 mix of water and antifreeze).
• If the coolant is below the MIN mark the low coolant alarm will
sound and the low coolant light will appear on the dash. You will
need to stop and check for coolant loss before driving.
• The coolant level to remain between the MAX and MIN level in the
reservoir.
The coolant capacity when changing the
antifreeze, is approximately 11-1/2 gallons.

Coolant
- Additive (SCA)

Routine Maintenance Recommendations
1. Check the SCA concentration level every 15,000 miles/6 months.
2. Change the coolant filter every 15,000 miles/6 months.
3. Drain and flush the system every 240,000 miles/2 years, and refill
with a heavy-duty coolant (50/50 mix of water and antifreeze)
4. Always use antifreeze. In addition to freeze protection, antifreeze
is essential for overheat and corrosion protection.
5. The supplemental coolant additive (SCA) is required.
6. Freeze point should be measured every 15,000 miles/6 months.

Fully formulated products contain SCA and are required to protect the
cooling system from fouling, solder blooming and general corrosion. The
cooling filter is required to protect the coolant system from abrasive materials, debris and precipitated coolant additives.
Supplement coolant additives, or equivalent, are used to prevent liner pitting, corrosion and scale deposits in the cooling system.
NOTE: The correct filter is determined by the total cooling system capacity and oil drain interval. Refer to the Coolant
Capacity Specifications in this section.
CAUTION: Insufficient concentration of the coolant additives
will result in liner pitting and engine failure. The SCA concentration must not fall below 1.2 units or exceed 3 units per gallon
of cooling system capacity.

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Use the correct Fleetguard coolant filter to maintain the
recommended SCA concentration in the system. Maintain
the correct concentration by changing the service coolant
filter at each oil drain interval. The coolant filter is located
next to the oil filter on the roadside of the engine. The oil
pressure gauge, temperature gauge, warning lamps and
other safety lamps should be checked daily to ensure proper operations.
NOTE: The correct filter is determined by the
total cooling system capacity. If you have any
questions refer to the Cummins manual.
NOTE: The engine does not require a “breakin” procedure.
Rotten, swollen and worn hoses, as well as loose connections, are
frequent causes of coolant system problems. Overheating can be caused by a
collapsed hose or a clog caused by rubber shedding from a rotten hose.
Replace any hose found to be cracked, swollen or damaged. Connections
should be inspected periodically and hose clamps tightened.

Coolant Hoses

If the coolant system becomes frozen solid, place the motorhome in a
warm area until the ice is completely thawed. At this point the motorhome
must be towed. If the engine is operated when the cooling system is frozen it
will result in engine overheating due to insufficient coolant.
Once thawed, check engine, radiator and related components for damage
caused by expansion of frozen coolant.
If the engine is overheated, never pour cold coolant into a hot engine. The
sudden change in temperature may crack the cylinder head or block. If the
engine is hot, fill slowly to prevent rapid cooling and distortion of engine
castings.

Coolant System
- Thawing

Low sulfer #2 diesel fuel or #1 and #2 commercial winter blend diesel
fuels are the most common commercially available and recommended for
use. The Cummins Engine Company Inc. recommends the use ASTM #2D
fuel. The use of #2 diesel fuel will result in optimum engine performance.

FUEL
REQUIREMENTS

WARNING: Do not mix gasohol with diesel fuel. This mixture
can cause an explosion.

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NOTE: Due to the precise tolerances of diesel injection systems,
it is extremely important that fuel be kept clean and free of dirt
or water. Dirt or water in the system can cause severe damage to
both the fuel pump and the fuel injector. Fuel additives for
lubricity are not recommended. There are numerous diesel fuel
additives to help remove moisture from fuel, prevent microbe
growth and to prevent freeze-up during cold weather. Any fuel
additives product should show supporting data for performance
and benefits. Engine failures caused by incorrect fuel are not
covered under warranty.

BRAKE - ENGINE

Auxiliary braking devices are devices designed to supplement your standard wheel braking system. The devices are not designed to stop the
motorhome completely. The proper use of an auxiliary braking device can
save in costly service brake repairs. The braking devices will assist in controlling the motorhome speed.
The Exhaust Brake system, used routinely at normal exhaust operating
temperatures, is virtually maintenance free. Some contributing causes which
can result in failures with the exhaust brake include moisture, dirt, carbon
and improper usage.
Starting the engine and idling for short periods of time is not recommended. Moisture is created within the engine and the exhaust system during cold
startups. When normal operating temperatures are not obtained moisture may
get trapped in the valve housing resulting in rust, leading to insufficient operation of the exhaust brake.
Some problems you may encounter with the exhaust brake include, but
are not limited to, will not activate or deactivate, intermittent on/off operations or actuates with the switch off. These are commonly related to electrical symptoms. Slow operations or delays in operations, as well as limited
performance, are mechanical symptoms. You should refer these problems to
your dealer for diagnosis.

BRAKE - EXHAUST

Pac Brake exhaust retard is such an auxiliary braking device attached
directly to engine turbocharger. The Pac Brake is activated when dash switch
is "ON" and throttle is "RELEASED." While driving with cruise control on,
it will require tapping service brakes to disengage cruise control. Pac Brake
foot switch will not disengage cruise control. A valve inside brake then
moves to restrict flow of exhaust gases, causing an increase of back pressure
within engine.
Increased back pressure quickly slows down engine, resulting in powerful
braking performance. Amount of braking power you will develop when Pac
Brake is on is relevant to engine speed (RPM). Higher RPM will have more
retarding power. Certain conditions may require down shifting to generate
adequate RPM for maximum retarding.

(ISC Engine)

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A Pac Brake wired to electronically controlled transmission will usually
provide converter lockup in gears 2 through 6, meaning brake will activate
automatically when throttle is released. Once on, brake will control existing
road speed and/or slow sufficiently so Allison Transmission will automatically downshift, if necessary, to calibration pre-select mode.

The Allison World transmission incorporates the World Transmission
Electronic Control (WTEC) system. The system is compromised of five
major components connected by a wiring harness: the electronic control unit
(ECU), engine throttle position sensor, three speed sensors, remote shift
selector (keypad) and the control module. The ECU will process information
received from the throttle position sensor, speed sensor, pressure switch and
shift selector to activate solenoids on the control module in the transmission.
The solenoids control oncoming and offgoing clutch pressure to provide
closed loop shift control. This is accomplished by matching RPM during a
shift to an established desired profile within the ECU.
The system is monitored within the first 30 seconds of each engine start.
This is referred to as “autodetect.” Autodetect searches for presence of data
inputs or transmission components. The autodetect enables the ECU functional or diagnostic response to the items which are detected.
Another feature of the transmission is the ability to “learn” or “adapt.”
The electronic control system optimizes shift quality by using “Adaptive
Shifting.” A wide variety in shifting under varied conditions will be required
before optimizing the shift quality. Generally five typical shifts of a shift type
are needed for shift calibration.
The range selection is accomplished via the remote push button selector.
The selector is simplistic in appearance. The controls are R, N, D, arrow up,
arrow down, MODE buttons and a digital display window. Under normal
operations the “D” button is pressed and the digital display shows the highest
forward range attainable for the shift selection in use. The digital display
window will also indicate codes for abnormal conditions and can even be a
useful troubleshooting aid. When the ignition is turned ON the display
should be visible. This display indicates the presence of neutral start command. If this display indication is not visible there is no power to the selector
and may indicate electrical problems with the batteries.

TRANSMISSION Shift Selector

• Digital display window enables information requested to be easily read.
• Select the Reverse gear by pressing “R”.
• Select NEUTRAL by pressing “N”. The area around the “N” button is a
raised ridge so the driver can orient his hand to the push buttons by
touch, without looking at the display.
• Select DRIVE range by pressing “D”. The highest forward gear will
appear on the SELECT display and the transmission will shift to the
starting gear.
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• The UPSHIFT and DOWNSHIFT arrow buttons are used to select a
higher (if not in “D”) or lower (if not in “1”) forward range. These buttons are not functional in NEUTRAL or REVERSE. One press changes
the range selected by one range. If the button is held continuously the
selected range will continue to change up or down until the button is
released or until the highest/lowest possible range of gears is selected.
• The MODE button will enable secondary shift point to be selected. This
is commonly referred to as “Economy.” It is further used by the service technician to access diagnostic codes when troubleshooting. The
diagnostic circuitry must be enabled to display.

Transmission
- Check Light

The electronic control system is programmed to inform the operator of a
problem with the transmission system and automatically take action to protect the operator, motorhome and transmission. When the Electronic Control
Unit (ECU) detects a DO NOT SHIFT (DNS) condition the ECU restricts
shifting, turns the CHECK TRANS light on the instrument panel and registers a diagnostic code.
NOTE: For some problems, diagnostic codes may be registered
without the ECU activating the CHECK TRANS light. An
Allison Transmission authorized service outlet should be
consulted whenever there is a transmission related concern.
They have the equipment to check for diagnostic codes and to
correct problems which arise.
Each time the engine is started the CHECK TRANS will light, then turn
off after a few seconds. This momentary lighting is to show that the status
light circuits are working properly. If the CHECK TRANS light does not
illuminate during start up, or if the light remains on after start up, the system
should be checked immediately.
Continued illumination of the CHECK TRANS light during vehicle operation (other than start up) indicates that the ECU has signaled a diagnostic
code. Illumination of the CHECK TRANS light is accompanied by a flashing display from the shift selector. The shift selector display will show actual
range attained and the transmission will not respond to shift selector requests.
Indications from the shift selector are provided to inform the operator that
the transmission is not performing as designed and is operating with reduced
capabilities. Before turning the ignition off, the transmission may be operated
for a short time in the selected range in order to “limp home” for service
assistance. Service should be performed immediately in order to minimize
potential for damage to the transmission.
When the CHECK TRANS light comes on and the ignition switch is
turned off the transmission will remain in N (Neutral) until the condition
causing the CHECK TRANS light is corrected. Generally, while the CHECK

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TRANS light is on, upshifts and downshifts will be restricted and direction
changes will not occur. Lever and push-button shift selectors do not respond
to any operator shift request while the CHECK TRANS light is illuminated.
The lockup clutch is disengaged when transmission shifting is restricted, or
during any critical transmission malfunction.
Diagnostic Codes
The diagnostic codes are numerical representations of malfunctions in the
transmission operations. Each code is a two digit main code and a two digit
sub code. The codes, when detected, are logged in the ECU memory. These
codes will fall in two classes: active and inactive. Active codes are codes currently effecting the ECU process. Inactive codes are retained but may not
effect the ECU process. The diagnostic mode must be entered. A maximum
of five codes, D1 to D5, may be listed at one time. The highest priority code
will be listed in D1. The MODE button will enable selection of sequential
codes.
• Enable Diagnostic Code Selection Display.
• Stop the motorhome at a safe location.
• Apply the parking brake.
• Simultaneously press the up and down arrows twice to enter the stored
codes. The first time the arrows are pressed will indicate the oil level
sensor information.
• The codes will display one digit at a time.
• The mode button is pressed to scroll through the codes.
• Any code obtained should be noted and reported to an Allison Service
Center for evaluation and possible repair.
• Inactive codes can be cleared by holding the MODE button for approximately 3 seconds. Some codes are self clearing while others will
require service or ignition cycles to clear.

The Allison MT Series requires minimum maintenance. Careful attention
to the fluid level and the connections for the electronic and hydraulic circuits
is very important.
For easier inspection, the transmission should be kept clean. Make periodic checks for loose bolts and leaking fluid lines. Check the condition of the
electrical harnesses regularly. Check the engine cooling system occasionally
for evidence of transmission fluid which would indicate a faulty oil cooler.
Report any abnormal condition to an Allison dealer.

Transmission Periodic Inspection

Prevent Major Problems
Help the WTEC III control system oversee the operation of the transmission. Minor problems can be kept from becoming major problems if you
notify an Allison Transmission distributor or dealer when one of these
conditions occur:
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1. The shifting feels odd.
2. The transmission leaks fluid.
3. There are unusual transmission-related sounds (changes in sound
caused by normal engine thermostatic fan cycling, while climbing a
long grade with a heavy load, have been mistaken for transmissionrelated sounds).
4. The CHECK TRANS light comes on frequently.
The Importance of Proper Fluid Levels
The transmission fluid cools, lubricates and transmits hydraulic power. It
is important that the proper fluid level be maintained at all times. If the fluid
level is too low the converter and clutches do not receive an adequate supply
of fluid. If the fluid level is too high the fluid can aerate. Aerated fluid can
cause the transmission to shift erratically or overheat.
The MT Series oil level sensor (OLS) allows the operator to obtain an
indication of sensor fluid level from the keypad shift selector. Frequently
check for the presence of oil level diagnostics in the transmission. If the OLS
has not been detected, troubleshooting of the OLS circuit is required. This
will have to be performed by an Allison Service Center. After the OLS circuit
is repaired ensure that reset of the “autodetect” or manual selection of the
OLS function, using the Pro-Link, has been accomplished.
Fluid Level Check with the Keypad
• Park the motorhome on a level surface, place the transmission in “N” and
set parking brake.
• The transmission should be at normal operating temperature.
• The motorhome should be stationary for approximately two minutes to
ensure fluid is stabilized.
• Simultaneously press the arrow up and arrow down buttons one time.
• The delayed fluid level check will display in the digital display window.
The display will be one character at a time. The “o,L” represents oil
level check mode. This will be followed with fluid level indication
readings. The “o,K” indicates a correct fluid level. Reading between
the OLS and the dipstick may not agree because the OLS compensates
for fluid temperatures. Abnormal indications of the OLS will be “Lo”
representing a low fluid level, “HI” for a high fluid level or “LO” for
invalid information and system problems. All indications will be followed by numeric values. The “LO” and “HI” followed by the numeric value represents the quarts of fluid required for the system. The
invalid code numbers represent specific symptoms.

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Common Oil Level Fault Codes:
• 0,5 settling time too short.
• 5,0 speed RPM too low.
• 5,9 speed RPM too high.
• 7,0 sump temperature too low.
• 7,9 sump temperature too high.
• 9,5 OLS FAILURE.
Exit the fluid level display by pressing any range button on the keypad.
NOTE: To correctly check the transmission fluid level using the
dipstick the transmission fluid must be at operating temperature. The oil level sensor method of checking the fluid level compensates for transmission fluid temperature between 60ºC 104ºC (140ºF - 220ºF). Any temperature below 60ºC (140ºF), or
above 104ºC (220ºF) will result in an Invalid for Display condition.

Any fluid meeting DEXRON-III specifications are acceptable for use in
the transmission. Transmission performance, reliability and durability are
important influences in the type of fluids used. Change the fluid internal filters after the first 8000km (5000 miles). The dipstick/oil fill is located
between the engine and transmission underneath the engine access door in
the bedroom. Change the transmission fluid and internal filters every
40,000km (25,000 miles) or 18 months, whichever occurs first.

TRANSMISSION
LUBRICATING
FLUID

Fluid and Internal Filters Change Interval Recommendations
The fluid and internal filters may require changing earlier depending on
the severity of operating conditions. The fluid must also be changed whenever there is evidence of dirt or high temperature conditions as indicated by
discoloration, strong odor or fluid analysis. Local conditions, severity of
operation or duty cycle will dictate more or less frequent service intervals.

Manual Check Procedures:
The concept of a cold check is to determine adequate fluid level for safe
operating until hot check can be performed.

Cold Check

• Park the motorhome on a level surface using the service brakes.
• The engine is operated at a low idle. Put the transmission in N (Neutral).
• Apply the parking brake and chock the wheels to prevent the motorhome
from moving.
• Allow the engine to run at idle (500-800 rpm) for one minute.

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• Apply the service brakes and shift to D (Drive), then to N (Neutral) and
next to R (Reverse) to fill the system. Finally shift to N (Neutral) and
release the service brakes. Allow the engine to continue to run at idle
(500-800 rpm).
• Remove the dipstick and wipe clean. Reinsert the dipstick fully into the
tube and remove to check fluid level. Repeat this to verify the reading
if needed.
• Safe operating level is anywhere within the COLD CHECK band on the
dipstick. The fluid level is sufficient enough to operate until a HOT
CHECK can be run.
• If the level is not within this band add or drain the fluid as necessary to
bring the level to the middle of the COLD CHECK band.
• Perform the HOT CHECK the first opportunity after reaching normal
operating temperatures (160º-200º F / 71º-93º C).

CAUTION: Low or high fluid level can cause overheating and
irregular shift patterns. These conditions can damage the transmission if not corrected.

Hot Check

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• The fluid level rises as the temperature increases. The fluid must be hot
to ensure an accurate check.
• Be sure the fluid has reached normal operating temperature (160º-200º
F/71º-93º C). If a transmission temperature gauge is not present check
the fluid level when the engine water temperature gauge has stabilized
and the transmission has been operated under the load for at least one
hour.
• Park the motorhome on a level surface and shift to N (Neutral). Apply
the parking brake and allow the engine to idle (500-800 rpm).
• After wiping the dipstick clean, check the fluid level. Safe operating
level is anywhere within the HOT RUN band on the dipstick.
• The width of the HOT RUN band is approximately 1 quart of fluid at
normal temperature range.
• If the level is not within this band, add or drain the fluid as necessary to
bring the level within the HOT RUN band.
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• Be sure that the fluid level checks are consistent. Check the level
more than once. If the readings are not consistent check to be sure
that the transmission breather is clean and not clogged. If the readings are still not consistent, contact the nearest Allison distributor
or dealer.

The diesel tank is made of 160 thousands aluminum. The capacity of the
tank is 118 gallons. The engine pickup tube is cut at a 45 degree angle to
allow good flow to the engine.

FUEL TANK

NOTE: If the coach has been stored for any length of time
you should check the vent for blockage. It is not uncommon for insects to plug the vent tube. If the tank appears
to be pressurized the vent tube may be blocked. To inspect
the vent tube check on the roadside of the fuel tank, near
the bottom.
Routine Maintenance Recommendations:
1. Change the fuel filter at every oil change interval.
2. Change the fuel-water separator filter every 12-18 months or every
25,000 miles.

Fuel/Water separator is located in rear engine compartment on left and right of frame. If “water in fuel” light is
illuminated, fuel filter will need to be drained. Shut off
engine and open drain valve. Turn valve counterclockwise
approximately 1-1/2 to 2 turns until draining occurs.
Drain fuel/water separator of water and sediment until
clear fuel is visible. Turn valve clockwise to close drain
valve.
In the event the ISC engine runs out of fuel, the lift
pump on the fuel pump will run for approximately 1
minute with the ignition ON. The ignition may have to be
turned on and off several times before attempting a start. If
unable to restart, contact the nearest Cummins Center or
phone 1-800-DIESELS for Cummins Customer Assistance
Center.

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FUEL/WATER SEPARATOR
(ISC Engine)

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FUEL SENDING
UNIT

The Centeroid fuel sender has no moving parts. It works by measuring capacitance, an electrical property, between its inner and outer tubes in the tank. The more
fuel between the tubes, the higher the reading. Electronics in the hockey-puck head
of the sender convert the capacitance to current to drive the fuel gauge.
Connections:
The Centroid sender has four connections:
• Positive and Negative: Battery voltage to run the electronics in the
sender head.
• Send: Connects to the Send terminal of the gauge on the dash.
• Alarm: Makes a connection internally to the Negative terminal
when the low alarm fuel level is reached (when gauge is reading
about 1/8 tank). This turns on the alarm light on the dash. It is not
adjustable.
Adjustments:
The Centroid sender has two adjustments:
Empty: Adjusts for length of sender. It has been set at the factory and covered
with sealant. It should not be changed.
Full Adjustment: The full adjustment can be used to correct for slight differences between fuel meters. During installation it has been calibrated for your meter
and should not need re-adjustment.
The correct adjustment technique, with a full tank of fuel, is to start with the full
adjustment screw completely clockwise. This should cause the reading to be above
full. Adjust slowly counterclockwise until the full mark is reached. The intent is to
always adjust downscale rather than upscale.
Troubleshooting:
A. Electornic output. The sender has a transistorized output. This prevents
an ohmmeter from getting a correct reading of its output resistance.
B. Fuel Only: The sender will not work correctly in conducting fluids
such as water (it will read above full all the time in water). One
possibility, when you have a constant above-full reading, is that you
have water at the bottom of the fuel tank.
C. Contact Centroid: Probably 90% of the return Centroid tests work okay on
the bench. If you have incorrect readings contact Centroid (telephone:
800-423-3574, or preferable fax: 904-423-3709) with your symptoms.
You will be provided with a short “Fill in the blanks” troubleshooting
test appropriate to your sender. It is easier to find the problem that way
than after the sender has been removed from the system, since the problem
is not necessarily with the sender.

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Make a visual check for fuel leaks at all engine-mounted fuel lines and
connections and at the fuel tank suction and return lines. Leaks in this area
may best be detected by checking for accumulation of fuel under the tank.
Engine performance and auxiliary equipment is dependent upon the ability of
flexible hoses to transfer lubricating oil, air, coolant and fuel oil. Diligent
maintenance of hoses is an important step in ensuring efficient, economical
and safe operation of engine and related equipment.
Check hoses daily as part of the prestart inspection. Examine hoses for
leaks. Check all fittings, clamps and ties carefully. Make sure that the hoses
are not touching shafts, coupling and heated surfaces, including exhaust manifolds, sharp edges or other obviously hazardous areas. Since all machinery
vibrates and moves to a certain extent, clamps and ties can fatigue with age.
To ensure continued proper support, inspect fasteners frequently and tighten
or replace them as necessary.
Engine oil levels above the dipstick full mark or a decrease in lube oil
consumption may indicate internal fuel leaks into the crankcase. Check oil
level frequently for fuel contamination.

Fuel Lines & Hoses

The motorhome uses a engine driven hydraulic pump to operate both the
power steering system and the engine hydraulic cooling fan system. The dual
stage hydraulic pump uses one half of the pump to supply pressurized
hydraulic fluid to the power steering gear assembly. The other half of the
pump supplies pressurized hydraulic fluid to the engine cooling fan motors.
The hydraulic system uses the same fluid for both systems sharing one common reservoir. The hydraulic fluid used is an automatic transmission fluid
(Dexron 3) which has a wide ambient temperature operating range.

HYDRAULIC
SYSTEMS (ISC)

CAUTION: If ambient temperatures approach 0°
Fahrenheit, Pennzoil Arctic Blue hydraulic fluid or equivalent hydraulic fluid should be used. Using incorrect
hydraulic system fluid weights in cold or arctic temperatures will raise the hydraulic system operating pressure and
may damage the hydraulic cooler.
The hydraulic pump creates pressure by meshing sets of gears together
inside a close tolerance housing. A filtered supply of hydraulic fluid from the
hydraulic reservoir enters the intake side of the pump. The meshing gear
assembly “squeezes” the oil through the pump to the output side delivering
the pressurized fluid to the power steering gear and the switching valve of
the engine cooling system. Each half of the pump is equipped with an internal bypass pressure relief spring. If the hydraulic pressure should exceed the
specified pressure limit, the internal bypass relief valve will be forced open
to keep the hydraulic fluid at operating pressure. The hydraulic pressure
generally is not rated in psi but is rated in the term bar. One bar is equivalent
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Hydraulic Pump

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to approximately 14.5 psi. Hydraulic system pressures with a system at no
load may be as low as eight bar on the output side of the pump. This is due
to the hydraulic fluid flow slows from hydraulic fluid restriction and creates
pressure.
This may be understood as a faucet with a garden hose attached.
Crimping the hose with the faucet on will create pressure from the restriction. This principal applies to the hydraulic system. The hydraulic pump is
the supply, the load would be the power steering gear or the hydraulic fan
motor. Hydraulic system pressure at full load can exceed 130 bar or 2000 psi.
Hydraulic system pressure falls dramatically after the load. The return line
pressure may be as low as six to eight bar. The fluid enters the hydraulic
cooler where the heat is dissipated.

Hydraulic Cooler

The hydraulic cooler is an important part in the hydraulic system. This
helps keep the hydraulic fluid from overheating. When a load is placed on
the hydraulic system, heat is created in the fluid. the hydraulic pump builds
pressure creating heat in the fluid. The restriction from the loads applied also
creates heat. This heat must be dissipated to keep the hydraulic fluid from
overheating and breaking down. After the fluid is cooled the fluid is filtered
before returning to the reservoir.
Care must be used when starting an engine in very cold or arctic climates.
As with any oil, lower temperatures thicken the oil hydraulic system pressures increase due to the thickness of the fluid. Even though the hydraulic
pump is equipped with pressure relief valves the thick oil on the return line
can exceed the operating pressure of the hydraulic cooler.

Hydraulic
Fan System

The hydraulic fan drive system cools the radiator, charge air cooler,
hydraulic fluid cooler. transmission cooler and and the dash air conditioning
condenser. The components of the hydraulic fan system are: hydraulic reservoir, filter, pump, fan motor, switching valve and thermovalve. The cooling
fan speed is proportional to engine speed and radiator temperature. When
radiator temperature rises above 185° F, the wax thermovalve slowly closes
off the bypassing hydraulic fluid from the switching valve. A spool valve
begins to move in the switching valve. This directs the pressurized hydraulic
fluid to the fan motor. The higher the radiator temperature, the further the
spool valve is moved in the switching valve, providing a higher volume of
pressurized hydraulic fluid to the fan motor. Fan motor speed is increased to
meet the demand for cooling. The action of the thermovalve is designed to
move the spool in the switching valve to ramp up fan motor speed. This
design saves horsepower and increases fuel mileage by precise control of
hydraulic fan motor speed. The fan motor will increase in speed when the

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motorhome is ascending long hills or operating in high ambient temperatures.
It is normal for the fan to “roar” when it is operating. Fan motor speed and
engine rpm are approximately the same with the switching valve at full
engagement.
The wax filled thermovalve is mounted at the top of the radiator sensing
coolant temperature. The thermovalve controls the action of the switching
valve. When the radiator is cool the hydraulic fluid is allowed to flow
through the inlet and outlet ports of the thermovalve and return to the
hydraulic reservoir. As the coolant temperature inside the radiator rises to
approximately 185° the wax inside the thermovalve begins to melt and
expand. This begins to restrict hydraulic fluid flow through the thermovalve.
The restricted hydraulic fluid pressure then begins to move the internal spool
valve of the switching valve. The process will continue until coolant temperature inside the radiator reaches approximately 199°F. At this temperature
hydraulic fluid flow through the thermovalve is stopped, moving the spool
valve to full open position.

Thermovalve

The switching valve is mounted to the fan motor. The switching valve
controls the direction of high pressure hydraulic fluid flow. High pressure
hydraulic fluid comes from the hydraulic pump to the switching valve and is
returned back to the reservoir. The thermovalve directs the fluid to the spool
valve in the switching valve. When the radiator is cool, pressurized hydraulic
fluid will bypass the fan motor and return to the fluid reservoir. As a radiator
temperature rises, the thermovalve signal is slowed or stopped to the switching valve. High pressure fluid is then directed to the fan motor, cooling the
radiator.

Switching Valve

The fan motor is driven by hydraulic fluid pressure from the switching
valve. The fan motor works on the same mechanical principal as a hydraulic
pump, only the mechanical principal when applied to the fan motor is
reversed. Instead of creating hydraulic pressure by meshing gears together in
a close tolerance housing, the fan motor receives hydraulic pressure. The
hydraulic fluid drives the fan motor’s internal gear assembly, spinning the
fan motor and the attached fan blade.

Fan Motor

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Hydraulic Filter
Reservoir

Filter Assembly

STEERING GEAR

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The Nelson hydraulic reservoir with internal filter system is
located in the engine compartment. It is the reservoir for both the
hydraulic fan drive system and power steering system. The
hydraulic filter assembly is located inside the reservoir. The 25
micron* filter system is designed to protect the precision tolerance
hydraulic system components. Check the oil level in the reservoir
when the oil is at operating temperature. This should be done every
6000 miles or three months. The oil dipstick/oil fill is located on
top of the reservoir. The oil level should be kept between the full
and add marks on the dipstick. Change the hydraulic oil filters
every 15,00 miles or once a year. When performing fluid level
checks inspect fittings and hoses for signs of leakage. Avoid
untimely and costly failures by having leaks repaired. To change the
filter system a five gallon drain bucket will be needed. Loosen the
band clamp at the top of the reservoir and remove the lid. Place the
drain bucket under the reservoir and loosen one of the bottom fittings to drain the reservoir. Drain only enough fluid from the reservoir to expose bottom filter, then tighten fitting. Remove the wing
nut, filter spring and filter washer. Remove the three drop in filters
and install the new ones. Install the filter washer and filter spring.
Tighten the wing nut until wing nut reaches end of threaded rod. It
is recommended to install new hydraulic fluid. Old fluid may contaminate the hydraulic system. Fill the reservoir with approximately
three to four gallons to the full mark. Install top and band clamp.
Run engine to purge any trapped air. Check fluid level after fifteen
minutes of operation. Total system capacity is approximately 44
quarts. Monaco filter number: 07010886. Nelson filter number:
84101B
*One micron is one millionth of one meter.
The M-100 series Sheppard steering gear requires no maintenance. Power
steering is provided by using hydraulic pressure to assist rotating the output
shaft of the steering gear. Located at the end of the input shaft of the steering
gear is a poppet valve and worm drive. The poppet valve directs the
hydraulic fluid pressure to a type of spool. There are worm drive threads in
the center of the spool. When in the center position, pressurized hydraulic
fluid bypasses the spool. When a turn is made the poppet valve shifts to one
direction or the other, directing the hydraulic pressure to one side of the
spool depending on turning direction. The hydraulic fluid is then cooled
before returning to the reservoir. Inspect for signs of leakage when performing fluid level checks. Changing the hydraulic filter at regular intervals will
help ensure trouble free operation.

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The air filter minder is a precision overflow restriction gauge designed to
take the guesswork out of air cleaner replacement. The air filter minder is
located in the engine rear compartment. Operation is simple and virtually
foolproof. As dirt captured by filter cartridge slowly builds up the system
pressure drop increases and is indicated by the filter minder on an easy to
read scale. The indicator locks up at the point of maximum restriction so
readings can be taken with or without the engine running. When the desired
change-out point is reached, the air filter should be replaced and the service
indicator is easily reset by pushing the button at the bottom of the minder.

AIR FILTER
MINDER

When the air filter needs to be changed, the entire air filter cartridge is
discarded and replaced by loosening the inlet and outlet ducting clamps and
releasing the retaining band snaps. The air filter is located in the rear engine
compartment. The air filter is located behind the engine access door.

AIR FILTER -

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DRIVE AXLE
LUBRICANT

Proper Drive Axle Lubricant Level
• Regular inspection of the drive axle lube levels is an essential maintenance procedure.
• The lubricant should be level with bottom of the hole.
• Important: The lube level close enough to the hole to be seen or touched is not
sufficient. The lube must be level with the hole.
• Your differential is filled with API GL-5 or MT-1 type gear lubricant, Pennzoil
Gear Plus Super-EW 75w-90.
NOTE: When checking the lube level also check the housing breathers.
Clean the breathers if dirty or replace them if damaged.

Incorrect Oil Level

DRIVELINE

Correct Oil Level

Greasing the Driveline Universal Joint:
1. Check the driveline for looseness. If loose, service the driveline as necessary.
2. Apply the specified grease at the grease fitting on the universal joint. Apply
grease until the new grease purges from all the seals.
3. If the new grease does not purge at the seals loosen the bearing cap bolts and
regrease until all four caps purge. If the new grease still does not purge replace
the universal joint.
Greasing the Driveline Slip Yoke and Splines:
1. Check the driveline for looseness. If loose, service the driveline as necessary.
2. Cover the air hole so that grease can flow easily to the seal. Apply the specified grease at the grease fitting on the slip yoke. Apply grease until new grease
purges from the air hole in the end of the slip yoke. Greasing Intervals-10,000
miles or annually.

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LUBRICATION CHART

Service must be performed every twelve (12) months, regardless of actual mileage, to protect
seals, bearings and gaskets from drying out and failing. The motorhome must be started and driven
for at least 20 miles bimonthly.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22

Engine Oil
Engine Oil Filter
Transmission
Steering Shaft (Inside Coach)
Drive Shaft U-Joints
Drive Shaft Slip Joint
Wheel Bearings
Brake Cam Shaft
Brake Adjuster
Battery Terminals
Rear Axle Differential
King Pins & Knuckles
Drag Link/Tie Rod
Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir
Hydraulic Fluid Filter
Fuel Filter
Engine Coolant Capacity
Leveler reservoir
Generator Set
Coolant Filter
Air Cleaner
Air Cleaner Restrictor

Keep To Full Mark
Replace At Oil Change
Refer to Service Manual
3 Fittings
2 Fittings
1 Fitting
Repack
One Fitting Each Wheel
One Fitting Each Wheel
Apply Coating
To Filler Plug
2 Fitting Each End
4 Fittings
Keep To Full
Replace
Replace
Replace
Replace
Refer to Service Manual
Replace
Replace
Check Daily

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Check Daily
Refer to Cummins
Check Daily
Every Two Years
10,000 or Annually
10,000 or Annually
30,000 or Annually
30,000 or Annually
30,000 or Annually
10,000 or Annually
250,000 or Every 3 Years
30,000 or Annually
30,000 or Annually
Check Daily
15,000 or Annually
At Oil Change
Every 2 Years
Every 36 Months
Refer to Onan
Every Engine Oil Change
When Indicated by Restrictor
When Red Replace Air Cleaner

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EO
OP
TF
CL-4
CL
CL
HT
CL
CL
P
MP
CL
CL
TF
TF
FF
AF
TF
EO
OP
OP
OP

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CL-4
EO
OP
MP
HT

U-Joints located inside the coach under the steering cover
Engine oil as recommended by engine manufacturer
Refer to operators manual
API GL-5 or MT-1 type gear lubricant - Pennzoil Gear Plus SUPER EW y5W-90, synthetic
High temperature bearing grease

CL-4

Chassis lubricant should be a high quality noncorrosive multipurpose
lithium soap pressure gun lubricant that is water resistant and
designed to withstand extremely high operating temperatures

P
AF
TF
FF

Petroleum jelly, or a commercial battery terminal corrosion inhibitor
Consult Cummins Owners manual for antifreeze type
Transmission fluid. Dexron III transmission fluid only
Fuel Filter

PARTS - COMMON SOLENOIDS & SENDERS
Rear Bag Dump Solenoid
• Used on hydraulic level and air level systems.
• Dumps air in air bags on hydraulic level units and is
used to dump air from tag axle on air level units.
• Located in the engine compartment on the roadside,
attached to frame below alternator.
• Type- Allen Air 36BXA-HB

Front Bag Dump or Tag Axle Solenoids
• Used on hydraulic level and tag axle units.
• Dumps air in front air bags and is used to raise or
lower tag axle.
• Located in the generator compartment on the curbside.
• Type- MAC 225B-601BAAA

Oil pressure Sending Unit
• One post is used for the oil pressure gauge and one
post is for the warning light.
• Type- VDO 360 0238NDO 0-100 Ohm

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Water Temperature Sending Unit
• One post is used for the water temperature gauge and one post is used for the
warning light.
• Type- VDO 323 0998

Low Air Switch
• 1/8-27 NPT thread.
• Normally closed until approximately 65 PSI.
• Located behind dash panel.
• Type- Merritor Wabco 89404 16062

Transmission Sending Unit
• Located on the bottom of the tail shaft housing, between hoses.
• Type- VDO 323 0868

House Disconnect and Starter Solenoid
• Solenoid interfaces start signal to Cummins starter.
• Solenoid interrupts DC power to the house fuse panel.
• Four post solenoid with isolated coil.
• Located in high and low current plates.
• MP # 8206

WINDSOR

W - R / RB M
70-111224- 5C COIL 12 VDC CONT

1 0 • 3 0 3

Chassis Information

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CHART - FILTERS & BELTS
Coolant Filter
Oil Filter
Fuel Filter Pri
Fuel Filter Sec
Aqua Hot Fuel
Hydraulic Filter
Alternator Belt
AC Belt
Air Filter

MANUFACTURER
Fleetguard
Fleetguard
Raycore
Fleetguard
Raycore
Parker
Dayco
Dayco
Donaldson

ISC 350
WF 2071
LF 3000
S 3201 T
FS 1022
R 12 T
INHC5710
3911581
17475
EBA09-2037 (MP*-2284)

* MP = Monaco Part #

NOTE: Filter and belt numbers were corrected at the time of
printing. Verify the numbers at time of removal. Monaco will not
be responsible for incorrect fiber or belt usage. Please refer to the
engine manufacturer’s operating instructions for specific maintenance information.

CHART - SPECIFICATIONS

1 0 • 3 0 4

WEIGHTS
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
Gross Combined Weight Rating
Front Gross Axle Weight Rating
Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating

34PBD
32,800 lbs
42,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
20,000 lbs

34PBS
32,800 lbs
42,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
20,000 lbs

MEASUREMENTS
Wheelbase
Overall Length
Overall Height
Interior Height
Interior Width
Exterior width (100.5" floorplan)

34PBD
217"
35' 2"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

34PBS
217"
35' 2"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

WINDSOR

36PBD 38PBD
32,800 lbs 32,800 lbs
42,800 lbs 42,800 lbs
12,800 lbs 12,800 lbs
20,000 lbs 20,000 lbs
36PBD
252"
38' 1"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

38PBD
252"
39' 3"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

38PBDD
32,800 lbs
42,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
20,000 lbs
38PBDD
252"
39' 3"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

Chassis Information

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

WEIGHTS
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
Gross Combined Weight Rating
Front Gross Axle Weight Rating
Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating

40PBD
35,800 lbs
45,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
23,000 lbs

MEASUREMENTS
Wheelbase
Overall Length
Overall Height
Interior Height
Interior Width
Exterior width (100.5" floorplan)

40PBD
270"
40' 10"
11' 11"
79"
96"
100.5"

MODEL
Grey
Black
Fresh
Diesel Fuel
LP

34PBS
60
40
87
128 gal
43 gal

MODEL
Grey
Black
Fresh
Diesel Fuel
LP

34PBD
60
40
87
128 gal
43 gal

40PBDS
35,800 lbs
45,800 lbs
12,800 lbs
23,000 lbs

40PBDD 40PWD
35,800 lbs 35,800 lbs
45,800 lbs 45,800 lbs
12,800 lbs 12,800 lbs
23,000 lbs 23,000 lbs

40PBDS 40PBDD 40PWD
270"
270"
270"
40' 10"
40' 10"
40' 10"
11' 11"
11' 11"
11' 11"
79"
79"
79"
96"
96"
96"
100.5"
100.5"
100.5"

40PKD 40PKDD
35,800 lbs 35,800 lbs
45,800 lbs 45,800 lbs
12,800 lbs 12,800 lbs
23,000 lbs 23,000 lbs
40PKD 40PKDD
270"
270"
40' 10"
40' 10"
11' 11"
11' 11"
79"
79"
96"
96"
100.5"
100.5"

36PBD 38PBD 38PBDD 40PBD
60
60
60
60
40
40
40
40
87
87
87
87
128 gal 128 gal 128 gal 128 gal
43 gal
43 gal
43 gal
43 gal

TANK CAPACITIES
(Approximate
Gallons)

40PBDS 40PBDD 40PWD 40PKD 40PKDD
60
60
60
60
60
40
40
40
40
40
87
87
87
87
87
128 gal 128 gal 128 gal 128 gal 128 gal
43 gal
43 gal
43 gal
43 gal
43 gal

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
CUMMINS ENGINE 350 HP ISC

ENGINE
SPECIFICATIONS

Engine Size / Cummins

8.3 Liter

Engine Size / Cummins 370 ISL (Optional)

8.9 Liter

Allison Transmission

MH 3000

Torque (Lbs. - ft. Max. Net at 1,424 RPM)

1050

Cubic Inch Displacement

505.5

Alternator / Leece Neville

160 Amp

Rear Axle Ratio

4.30:1

Tire Size / Goodyear

295/80R 22.5
WINDSOR

1 0 • 3 0 5

Chassis Information

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CHART - METRIC CONVERSION
U.S. Customary to Metric
Measurement
Length
inches (in)
inches (in)
feet (ft)
yards (yd)
miles (mi)

Metric to US Customary

Multiplied By

Equals/Measurement

Multiplied By

Equals

25.4
2.54
0.3048
0.9144
1.609

millimeters (mm)
centimeters (cm)
meters (m)
kilometers (km)

0.03937
0.3937
3.281
1.094
0.6215

inches (in)
inches (in)
feet (ft)
yards (yd)
miles (mi)

645.16
6.452
0.0929

square millimeters (m2)
square centimeters (cm2)
square meters (m2)

0.00155
0.15
10.764

square inches (in2)
square inches (in2)
square feet (ft2)

16387
16.387
0.01639
29.54
0.47318
0.94635
3.7854
28.317
0.02832

cubic millimeters (mm3)
cubic centimeters (cm3)
liters (l)
milliliters (mL)
liters (L)
liters (L)
liters (L)
liters (L)
cubic meters (m3)

0.000061
0.06102
61.024
0.03381
2.1134
1.0567
0.2642
0.03531
35.315

cubic inches (in3)
cubic inches (in3)
cubic inches (in3)
fluid ounces (fl oz)
pints (pt)
quarts (qt)
gallons (gal)
cubic feet (ft3)
cubic feet (ft3)

28.35
0.454
907.18
0.90718

grams (g)
kilograms (kg)
kilograms (kg)
metric tons (t)

0.03527
2.205
0.001102
1.1023

ounces (av) (oz)
pounds (av) (lb)
U.S. tons (t)
U.S. tons (t)

11.298
1.3558

Newton-centimeters (N.cm)
Newton-meters (N.m)

0.08851
0.7376

inch-pounds (lbf.in)
foot-pounds (lbf.ft)

3.37685

kiloPascals (kPa)

0.29613

6.895

kiloPascals (kPa)

0.14503

Area
square inches (in2)
square inches (in2)
square feet (ft2)
Volume
cubic inches (in3)
cubic inches (in3)
cubic inches (in3)
fluid ounces (fl oz)
pints (pt)
quarts (qt)
gallons (gal)
cubic feet (ft3)
cubic feet (ft3)
Weight/Force
ounce (av) (oz)
pounds (av) (lb)
U.S. tons (t)
U.S. tons (t)
Torque/Work Force
inch-pounds (lbf.in)
foot-pounds (lbf.ft)
Pressure/Vacuum

inches of mercury (inHg)
pounds per square inch (psi)

Measurement
Temperature
degrees
Fahrenheit (°F)

1 0 • 3 0 6

Subtract Divide By Equals/Measurement
32

1.8

degrees Celsius (°C)

inches of mercury
(inHg)
pounds per square inch
(psi)

Multiply By

Add

Equals

1.8

32

degrees
Fahrenheit (°F)

WINDSOR

Chassis Information

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MAINTENANCE RECORD
After the scheduled services are performed, record the date, odometer reading and who
performed the service in the boxes provided after the maintenance interval. Any additional information
from “Owner Checks and Services” or “Periodic Maintenance” can be added on the following record
pages. In addition, you should retain all maintenance receipts. Your owner information portfolio is a
convenient place to store them.
Date

Odometer
Reading

Service By

WINDSOR

Maintenance Performed

1 0 • 3 0 7

Chassis Information

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Date

1 0 • 3 0 8

Odometer
Reading

Service By

Maintenance Performed

WINDSOR

GLOSSARY OF TERMS • 311
INDEX • 314
SURVEY • 317

Glossary

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

GLOSSARY OF TERMS
AC Electricity - Alternating current also known as household power.
Air Compressor - A device that pumps air to and builds air pressure in an air system.
Air Dryer - A device that cools, filters, and dries the air delivered by an air compressor.
Air Governor - A device that controls the operation of the air compressor by constantly monitoring air
pressure in the supply tank of the air system. The air governor initiates the unload cycle when the
cut-out pressure is reached. The air governor also controls the air dryer by sending an air signal (at
the beginning of the compressor unload cycle) to the control port of the air dryer, initiating the
purge cycle. When this air signal is removed by the governor (at the beginning of the compressor
load cycle) the purge valve closes and the drying cycle begins.
Ampere (Amp) - The unit of measure of electron flow rate of current through a circuit.
Ampere-hour (Amp-hr. AH) - A unit of measure for a battery electrical storage capacity, obtained by
multiplying the current in amperes by the time in hours of discharge (Example; a battery which
delivers 5 amperes for 20 hours, delivers 5 amperes times 20 hours, or 100 Amp-Hr. of capacity.)
Black Water - Term associated with the sewage holding tank. The toilet drains directly into this tank.
Chassis Battery - Powers chassis 12V accessories and starts engine.
Circuit - An electric circuit is the path of an electric current. A closed circuit has a complete path. An
open circuit has a broken or disconnected path.
City Water - A term associated with the water supply that you hook-up to when you are at campgrounds. It is called city water because you pull water from a central source (like in a city) and not
the fresh water tank.
Compressor Load Cycle - The time during which the air compressor is building air pressure in air system.
Compressor Unload Cycle - The time during which the air compressor is idling and is not building air
pressure in an air system.
Curbside - This refers to the side of the motorhome which faces the curb when it is parked. Often called
the door side.
Current (Alternating) (AC) - A current that varies periodically in magnitude and direction. A battery
does not deliver alternating current. Also referred to as shore power, utility power, inverter power,
generator power, etc.
Current - The rate of flow of electricity or the movement rate of electrons along a conductor. It is comparable to the flow of a stream of water. The unit of measure for current is the ampere.
WINDSOR

1 0 • 3 1 1

Glossary

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cut-In Pressure - The pressure level in the air system supply tank which triggers the compressor load cycle.
Cut-Out Pressure - The pressure level in the air system supply tank which triggers the compressor unload
cycle.
Cycle - In a battery, one discharge plus one recharge equals one cycle.
DC Electricity - Direct current also known as battery power.
Desiccant - A granular substance that has a high affinity for water and is used to retain moisture from the air
stream flowing through the air dryer cartridge.
Direct Current (DC) - Power that is stored in a battery bank or supplied by photovoltaic, alternator, chargers
and DC generators.
Drain Trap - This is a curve that is in all drains. Water is trapped in the curve and this creates a barrier so
tank odors cannot escape through the drain.
Dry Camping - Camping in the motorhome when there is no city water hook-up or shore power. In other
words, using only the water and power that is in the motorhome and not anything from another source.
Drying Cycle - The time during which the air dryer cools, filters and removes moisture from the air delivered
by the air compressor. The drying cycle begins and ends the same as the compressor load cycle.
Dump Station - Sites where you can drain your waste (gray) and sewage (black) tanks. In most states it is
illegal to drain your tanks anywhere except at dump stations.
Dump Valve - Another name for the T-handle valve used to drain the sewage (black) and waste (gray tanks).
Egress Window - The formal name for the emergency window located in the rear of the motorhome. Egress
windows can be easily identified by their red handles.
Full Hook-Up Site - A campground that has city water, shore power and sewer hook-ups or connections available.
Gray Water - Term associated with the waste water holding tank. Water from the sink drains, the shower and
the washer/dryer (if equipped) go into this tank.
House Battery - Powers 12V lights and accessories inside motorhome.
LED - (Light Emitting Diode) Indicator light.
Low Point - The lowest point in the plumbing. Drains are placed here so that water will drain out of the lower
end of the motorhome. These drains must be closed when you fill the water tank.
OHM - A unit for measuring electrical resistances.
1 0 • 3 1 2

WINDSOR

Glossary

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ohm’s Law - Express the relationship between volt (E), amperes (I) in an electrical circuit with resistance (R). It can be expressed as follows: E = IR If any two of the three values are known, the third
value can be calculated by using the above formula.
Purge - The initial blast of air (decompression) from the air dryer purger valve at the beginning of the
air compressor.
Purge Cycle - The time during which the air dryer is undergoing purge and regeneration. This cycle
starts at the beginning of the compressor unload cycle and normally ends well before the beginning
of the compressor load cycle.
Regeneration - The mild backflow of air through the air dryer and out the purge valve that begins
immediately after the purge and lasts normally 10 to 15 seconds. This backflow of air, from the air
system and through the air dryer, removes moisture from the desiccant cartridge and prepares the
air dryer for the next compressor load cycle.
Road Side - This refers to the side of the motorhome which faces the road when it is parked. Often
called the off-door side.
Shore Line - This is the electrical cord which runs from the motorhome to the campground 120 volt
electrical supply.
Shore Line Plug - This is the 120 volt campground outlet that you can plug your motorhome shore line
into.
Stinger - An arm attachment on a tow truck that is used to lift motorhome slightly so that it can be
towed.
Volt - The unit of measure for electric potential.
Watt - The unit for measuring electrical power, i.e., the rate of doing work, in moving electrons by or
against an electric potential.
Wet Cell Battery - A type of battery that uses liquid as an electrolyte. This type of battery requires periodic maintenance such as cleaning the connections and checking the electrolyte level.

WINDSOR

1 0 • 3 1 3

Index

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A.B.S. System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Conditioner - Roof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Coupler Universal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Dryer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Filter Changing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Filter Minder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Governor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Storage Tanks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Supply System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Systems Charging (External) . . . . . . . . .
Alignment Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Aqua-Hot (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Awnings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

267
112
262
259
299
299
258
262
258
262
270
251
116
149

-BBacking Up A Motorhome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Battery Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Battery Cutoff Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Battery Disconnect Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Battery Disconnect House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Battery How It Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brake Adjustments/Slack Adjuster . . . . . . . .
Brake - Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brake - Exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brake - Park & Emergency Systems . . . . . . .
Brake Systems - Air Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brake Systems - Backup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Breaking Camp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bulb Usage (Exterior) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Bulb Usage (Interior) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33
228
192
227
191
213
267
269
286
266
265
269
40
253
223

-CCarbon Monoxide Detector . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cell Phone Prewire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Chart - Filter & Belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Chart - Metric Conversion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Chart - Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Checklist - LP Gas Emergency
Procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Checklist - Pretrip Preparations . . . . . . . . . . .
Checklist - Set Up Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . .
Checklist - Winter Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Citizen Band Radio (CB) - Prewire . . . . . . . .
Cold Weather Package (Optional) . . . . . . . . .
Cold Weather Starting Procedure . . . . . . . . .
Cold Weather Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cooktop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Customer Relations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

182
29
35
91
144
172
280
171
110
283
13

-DDash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Diagnostic Plug Location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dinette Bed Conversion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

230
242
156

1 0 • 3 1 4

63
144
304
306
307

Distribution Panel - House 12 Volt . . . . . . . .
Distribution Panel - House 110 . . . . . . . . . . .
Door Sliding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drive Axle Lubricant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drive Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Driving and Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dry Camping Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
DVD Player (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

211
206
149
300
300
25
37
144

-EEgress Exit Window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
65
Emergency Procedures - Roadside . . . . . . . .
42
Energy Management System 50 Amp (Optional)208
Engine - General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
Engine Shutdown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
Engine Shutdown (Entended) . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Entertainment Center - Home . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Entry Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Entry Step . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Entry Step Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Exterior Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
69
-FFabric Specifications Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fan Vent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fire Extinguisher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel Requirement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel Sending Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel/Water Separator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuses & Circuits (Chassis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Furnace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

76
147
149
65
285
294
293
293
248
114

-G,HGenerator 120 AC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Glossary of Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hot Water Dispenser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hydraulic Systems (ISC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

193
311
32
103
295

-I,J,KIce Maker - Stand Alone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Interior Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Inverter/Converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
I.S.C. Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

102
74
196
279

-LLeveling Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
Leveling System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Leveling Systems - Air (Optional) . . . . . . . . 276
Limited Warranty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1
Limitied Warranty - Roadmaster . . . . . . . . . .
5
LP-Gas Consumption . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
LP-Gas Detector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61,180

WINDSOR

Index

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

LP-Gas Distribution Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
LP-Gas Fundamentals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
LP-Gas Regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
LP-Gas System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
LP Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lubrication Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

185
186
184
179
183
301

-M,NMaintenance Record Log . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
Microwave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Monitor Panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159,182
Mana-Bloc Plumbing Manaifold . . . . . . . . . . 160
-O,POil Recommendations (Engine) . . . . . . . . . .
Owner’s Record - Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Owner’s Record - Personal Property . . . . . . .
Owner’s Record - Serial Numbers . . . . . . . .
Parking Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Parts Common Solenoids & Senders . . . . . . .

280
19
18
17
245
302

-RRadio - Bedroom Remote Commander . . . . .
Radio - Dash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Start Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear View System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Refrigerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Reporting Safety Defects . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ride Height Valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

146
146
251
32
97
14
263

-SSatelite System Prewire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Satelite System (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Service Suggestions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shifter Panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shock Absorbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shore Power Hookup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Slide Lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Slide-Out Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Smoke Detector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sofa to Sleeper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Solar Panel (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Specifications - Dimensions Chart . . . . . . . .
Super Slide (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Starting Procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stepwell Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steering Column . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steering Column & Smart Wheel . . . . . . . . .
Steering Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Storage - Long Term . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Storage - Short Term . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Storage - Under Bed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sunvisor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Suspension Air Ride Bags . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

145
145
15
243
272
192
140
133
60
155
221
57
156
279
131
248
246
298
88
87
156
155
264

WINDSOR

-TTaking Delevery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tank Capacities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Television Antenna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tire Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Transmission Lubricating Fluid . . . . . . . . . . .
Trip Tek 2000 (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Toilet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Towing Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

14
166
141
45
52
287
291
30
168
44

-V,W,X,Y,ZVendor List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Video Slelector Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Washer/Dryer Prepared . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Washer/Dryer (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Waste Water Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Water - City Hookup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Water Filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Water Heater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Water Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Water Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Water Tank - Fresh Fill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Weighing the Motorhome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Winterizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

20
143
58
123
123
167
161
164
120
162
159
160
49
173

1 0 • 3 1 5

Technical Publications

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TECHNICAL PUBLICATIONS
Manager Vance Buell
Editing Technical Publications

OREGON OPERATIONS
Technical Writers
William Birch
Robert Buckholtz

Creative
Layout Design Dawn Davis, Kelly Stroble
Cover Design Dawn Davis
Technical Illustrator Judy Pressler

Printing
Holiday Graphics

INDIANA OPERATIONS
Technical Writer
Fran Weisenstein
Kevin Dishman

Creative
Layout Design Penny Eddinger,
Technical Illustrator Judy Pressler

VIDEO PRODUCTIONS
Dean Mitchell

ONLINE
CORPORATE SITE
www.monaco-online.com
MONACO PRODUCTS
www.monacocoach.com
ONLINE TOURS
www.monaco-tours.com

1 0 • 3 1 6

WINDSOR

2002 WINDSOR
OWNER’S MANUAL QUESTIONNAIRE
Your suggestions are very important to us and we are continually striving to
improve the quality of our manuals. After becoming familiar with your new
recreational vehicle and the accompanying manual, please take the time to
answer the following questions. When you are finished please return it, postage
paid, to our Technical Publications Department. Feel free to attach an additional page if you desire.
1. Is this your first recreational vehicle? YES / NO
2. Was the overall appearance and lay-out of this manual what you expected
to see in your new recreational vehicle?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
3. Was the information within this manual helpful in acquainting you with
your new recreational vehicle? If not please address any area(s) we need to
expand or improve on.
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
4. Were the operating instructions clearly written, and were you able to
follow the steps without any difficulty?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
5. Is there any additional information you would like to see incorporated
within the owner’s manual?
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
NAME: ___________________________ PHONE: (_____)_____________
ADDRESS: ____________________________________________________
SERIAL # ______________________________________________________
1 0 •

3 1 7

FOLD

FOLD

CUT ALONG
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1 0 • 3 1 8

WINDSOR



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