Arctic_cat_2009_400_TRV_500_550_700_1000_thundercat_service_manual Arctic Cat 2009 400 TRV 500 550 700 1000 Thundercat Service Manual

User Manual: arctic_cat_2009_400_TRV_500_550_700_1000_thundercat_service_manual

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FOREWORD

This Arctic Cat Service Manual contains service, maintenance, and troubleshooting information for certain 2009

Arctic Cat ATV models (see cover). The complete manual is designed to aid service personnel in service-oriented

applications.

Arctic Cat offers additional publications (when they become available) to aid in servicing other ATV models. To

service models not included in this manual, please refer to the following publications:

• 2009 Y-12 Service Manual

• 2009 T-14 Service Manual

• 2009 DVX 300/250 Utility Service Manual

• 2009 366 Service Manual

• 2009 700 Mud Pro Service Manual Supplement

This manual is divided into sections. Each section covers a specific ATV component or system and, in addition to

the standard service procedures, includes disassembling, inspecting, and assembling instructions. When using this

manual as a guide, the technician should use discretion as to how much disassembly is needed to correct any given

condition.

The service technician should become familiar with the operation and construction of each component or system

by carefully studying the complete manual. This manual will assist the service technician in becoming more aware

of and efficient with servicing procedures. Such efficiency not only helps build consumer confidence but also saves

time and labor.

All Arctic Cat ATV publications and decals display the words Warning, Caution, Note, and At This Point to

emphasize important information. The symbol ! WARNING identifies personal safety-related information.

Be sure to follow the directive because it deals with the possibility of severe personal injury or even death. The

symbol ! CAUTION identifies unsafe practices which may result in ATV-related damage. Follow the direc-

tive because it deals with the possibility of damaging part or parts of the ATV. The symbol NOTE: identifies

supplementary information worthy of particular attention. The symbol  AT THIS POINT directs the tech-

nician to certain and specific procedures to promote efficiency and to improve clarity.

At the time of publication, all information, photographs, and illustrations were technically correct. Some photo-

graphs used in this manual are used for clarity purposes only and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

Because Arctic Cat Inc. constantly refines and improves its products, no retroactive obligation is incurred.

All materials and specifications are subject to change without notice.

Keep this manual accessible in the shop area for reference.

Product Service and

Warranty Department

Arctic Cat Inc.

®™ Trademarks of Arctic Cat Inc., Thief River Falls, MN 56701

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

www.mymowerparts.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Foreword

Click on the blue text to go.

Section

1. General Information/Specifications

2. Periodic Maintenance

3. Engine/Transmission

4. Fuel/Lubrication/Cooling

5. Electrical System

6. Drive System

7. Suspension

8. Steering/Frame

9. Controls/Indicators

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

www.mymowerparts.com

1-1

SECTION 1 - GENERAL INFORMATION/

SPECIFICATIONS

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

General Specifications ............................................ 1-2

Torque Specifications .............................................. 1-3

Torque Conversions (ft-lb/N-m) ............................... 1-6

Tightening Torque (General Bolts) .......................... 1-6

Break-In Procedure ................................................. 1-6

Gasoline - Oil - Lubricant ........................................ 1-6

Genuine Parts ......................................................... 1-7

Preparation For Storage.......................................... 1-7

Preparation After Storage........................................ 1-8

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

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1-2

General Specifications*

* Specifications subject to change without notice.

** One inch below plug threads.

*** At the plug threads.

400 TRV

CHASSIS

Brake Type Hydraulic w/Brake Lever Lock

and Auxiliary Brake

Tire Size Front - 25 x 8-12

Rear - 25 x 10-12

Tire Inflation Pressure 0.35 kg/cm² (5 psi)

MISCELLANY

Gas Tank Capacity (rated) 20.8 L (5.5 U.S. gal.)

Rear Drive Capacity 250 ml (8.5 fl oz)**

Front Differential Capacity 275 ml (9.3 fl oz)***

Engine Oil Capacity 3.3 L (3.5 U.S. qt) - Overhaul

2.8 L (3.0 U.S. qt) - Change

Gasoline (recommended) 87 Octane Regular Unleaded

Engine Oil (recommended) Arctic Cat ACX All Weather

(Synthetic)

Differential/Rear Drive Lubricant SAE Approved 80W-90 Hypoid

Drive Belt Width (minimum) 28.5 mm (1.12 in.)

Brake Fluid DOT 4

Taillight/Brakelight 12V/8W/27W

Headlight 12V/37W (2)

500

CHASSIS

Brake Type Hydraulic w/Brake Lever Lock

and Auxiliary Brake

Tire Size Front - 25 x 8-12

Rear - 25 x 10-12

Tire Inflation Pressure 0.35 kg/cm² (5 psi)

MISCELLANY

Gas Tank Capacity (rated) 24.6 L (6.5 U.S. gal.)

Coolant Capacity 2.9 L (3.0 U.S. qt)

Differential Capacity 275 ml (9.3 fl oz)**

Rear Drive Capacity 250 ml (8.5 fl oz)***

Engine Oil Capacity 3.4 L (3.5 U.S. qt) - Manual

2.5 L (2.6 U.S. qt) - Automatic

Gasoline (recommended) 87 Octane Regular Unleaded

Engine Oil (recommended) Arctic Cat ACX All Weather

(Synthetic)

Differential/Rear Drive Lubricant SAE Approved 80W-90 Hypoid

Drive Belt Width (Automatic)

(minimum)

38 mm (1.33 in.)

Brake Fluid DOT 4

Taillight/Brakelight 12V/8W/27W

Headlight 12V/27W (2)

H1 Models

CHASSIS

Brake Type Hydraulic w/Brake Lever Lock and

Auxiliary Brake

Tire Size Front - 25 x 8-12

Rear - 25 x 10-12

Tire Inflation Pressure 0.35 kg/cm² (5 psi)

MISCELLANY

Gas Tank Capacity (rated) 24.6 L (6.5 U.S. gal.)

20.8 L (5.5 U.S. gal.) - TRV/Cruiser

Coolant Capacity 2.9 L (3.0 U.S. qt)

Differential Capacity 275 ml (9.3 fl oz)**

Rear Drive Capacity 250 ml (8.5 fl oz)***

Engine Oil Capacity 2.5 L (2.6 U.S. qt) - Overhaul

1.9 L (2.0 U.S. qt) - Change

Gasoline (recommended) 87 Octane Regular Unleaded

Engine Oil (recommended) Arctic Cat ACX All Weather (Synthetic)

Differential/Rear Drive

Lubricant

SAE Approved 80W-90 Hypoid

Drive Belt Width (minimum) 35.6 mm (1.40 in.)

Brake Fluid DOT 4

Taillight/Brakelight 12V/8W/27W

Headlight 12V/27W (2)

H2 Models

CHASSIS

Brake Type Hydraulic w/Brake Lever Lock and

Auxiliary Brake

Tire Size Front - 25 x 8-12

Rear - 25 x 10-12

Tire Inflation Pressure 0.35 kg/cm² (5 psi)

MISCELLANY

Gas Tank Capacity (rated) 24.6 L (6.5 U.S. gal.)

20.8 L (5.5 U.S. gal.) - Cruiser

Coolant Capacity 3.3 L (3.5 U.S. qt)

Differential Capacity 275 ml (9.3 fl oz)**

Rear Drive Capacity 250 ml (8.5 fl oz)***

Engine Oil Capacity 2.8 L (3.0 U.S. qt)

Gasoline (recommended) 87 Octane Regular Unleaded

Engine Oil (recommended) Arctic Cat ACX All Weather (Synthetic)

Front Differential/Rear Drive

Lubricant

SAE Approved 80W-90 Hypoid

Drive Belt Width (minimum) 35.6 mm (1.40 in.)

Brake Fluid DOT 4

Taillight/Brakelight 12V/8W/27W

Headlight 12V/27W (2)

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

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1-3

Torque Specifications

* w/Blue Loctite #243

** w/Red Loctite #271

*** w/Green Loctite #609

EXHAUST COMPONENTS

Part Part Bolted To Torque

ft-lb N-m

Exhaust Pipe Engine 20 27

Spark Arrester Muffler 48

in.-lb

5.5

ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS

Engine/Harness Ground Cap

Screw

Crankcase 8 11

Coil (500)* Frame 12 16

Coil (EFI Models) Air Filter Housing 7 10

STEERING COMPONENTS

Steering Post Bearing

Housing

Frame 20 27

Steering Post Bearing Flange Frame 20 27

Lower Steering Bearing

Washer Cap Screw***

Steering Post 40 54

Tie Rod End Knuckle/Steering Post 30 41

BRAKE COMPONENTS

Brake Disc* Hub 15 20

Brake Hose Caliper 20 27

Brake Hose Master Cylinder 20 27

Brake Hose Auxiliary Brake Cylinder 20 27

Master Cylinder (Rear) Frame 12 16

Hydraulic Caliper Knuckle 20 27

Master Cylinder Clamp Master Cylinder 6 8

Brake Pedal Brake Pedal Axle 25 34

CHASSIS COMPONENTS

Footrest Frame (8 mm) 20 27

Footrest Frame (10 mm) 40 54

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS (Front)

A-Arm (400/500/H1 Models) Frame 35 47

A-Arm (H2 Models) Frame 50 68

Knuckle Ball Joint 35 47

Shock Absorber Frame 35 47

Shock Absorber Upper A-Arm 35 47

Knuckle A-Arm 35 47

SUSPENSION COMPONENTS (Rear)

Shock Absorber (Upper) Frame 35 47

Shock Absorber (Upper) (H2

Models)

Frame 50 68

Shock Absorber (Lower) Lower A-Arm 20 27

A-Arm Frame 35 47

A-Arm (H2 Models) Frame 50 68

Knuckle A-Arm 35 47

Knuckle (H2 Models) A-Arm 50 68

DRIVE TRAIN COMPONENTS

(400 TRV)

Part Part Bolted To Torque

ft-lb N-m

Engine Mounting Through-Bolt Frame 38 52

Front Differential Frame/Differential

Bracket

38 52

Output Flange Rear Flange

Output Joint

20 27

Pinion Housing Differential

Housing

23 31

Differential Housing Cover*** Differential

Housing

23 31

Drive Bevel Gear Nut** Shaft 59 80

Driven Bevel Gear Nut** Driven Shaft 59 80

Lock Collar Differential

Housing

125 169

Hub Nut Shaft/Axle (max) 200 272

Oil Drain Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

45 in.-lb 5

Oil Fill Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

16 22

Oil Drain Plug Engine 20 27

Rear Drive Input Shaft/Housing Differential

Housing

23 31

Wheel Hub 40 54

Rear Drive Gear Case Frame 38 52

Engine Output Shaft** Rear Gear Case

Input Flange

20 27

DRIVE TRAIN COMPONENTS

(500 - Manual Transmission)

Engine (Lower Rear/Front) Frame 40 54

Front Differential Frame/Differential

Bracket

38 52

Pinion Housing Differential

Housing

23 31

Differential Housing Cover*** Differential

Housing

23 31

Drive Bevel Gear Nut*** Shaft 72 98

Lock Collar Differential

Housing

125 169

Hub Nut Shaft/Axle (max) 200 272

Oil Drain Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

45 in.-lb 5

Oil Fill Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

16 22

Oil Drain Plug Engine 16 22

Inspection Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

48 in.-lb 5.5

Wheel Hub 40 54

Rear Drive Input Shaft/Housing Differential

Housing

23 31

Rear Drive Gear Case Frame 45 61

Engine Output Shaft** Rear Gear Case

Input Flange

20 27

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1-4

* w/Blue Loctite #243

** w/Red Loctite #271

*** w/Green Loctite #609

DRIVE TRAIN COMPONENTS

(500 - Automatic Transmission/H1 Models)

Part Part Bolted To Torque

ft-lb N-m

Engine Mounting Through-Bolt Frame 40 54

Engine (TRV) Engine Cradle 40 54

Engine Cradle (TRV)** Rubber Mount 25 34

Rubber Mount (TRV) Frame Bracket 35 47

Front Differential* Frame/Differential

Bracket

38 52

Output Flange Rear Flange

Output Joint

20 27

Pinion Housing Differential Housing 23 31

Differential Housing Cover*** Differential Housing 23 31

Drive Bevel Gear Nut*** Shaft 72 98

Differential Gear Case*** Hub 19 26

Lock Collar Differential Housing 125 169

Hub Nut Shaft/Axle (max) 200 272

Oil Drain Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

45 in.-lb 5

Oil Fill Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

16 22

Oil Drain Plug Engine 16 22

Rear Drive Input Shaft/

Housing

Differential Housing 23 31

Wheel Hub 40 54

Rear Drive Gear Case Frame 38 52

Engine Output Shaft ** Rear Gear Case

Input Flange

20 27

DRIVE TRAIN COMPONENTS

(H2 Models)

Engine Mount (Rear) Frame 45 61

Front Differential Frame/Differential

Bracket

38 52

Rear Gear Case Frame 38 52

Pinion Housing Differential Housing 23 31

Differential Housing Cover*** Differential Housing 23 31

Lock Collar Differential Housing 125 169

Hub Nut Shaft/Axle (max) 200 272

Oil Drain Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

45 in.-lb 5

Oil Fill Plug Front Differential/

Rear Drive

16 22

Oil Drain Plug Engine 16 22

Wheel Hub 40 54

Rear Drive Input Shaft/

Housing

Differentail Housing 23 31

Rear Output Drive Flange Rear Yoke Flange 20 27

Shift Cam Stopper Shift Stopper 8 11

Shift Cam Plate Shift Cam Shaft 8 11

Shifter Housing Crankcase 8 11

Engine Output Shaft** Rear Gear Case

Input Flange

20 27

ENGINE/TRANSMISSION

(400 TRV)

Part Part Bolted To Torque

ft-lb N-m

Clutch Shoe** Crankshaft 147 199

Clutch Cover/Housing

Assembly

Crankcase 8 11

Left-Side Cover Crankcase 8 11

Crankcase Half (6 mm) Crankcase Half 10 13.5

Crankcase Half (8 mm) Crankcase Half 21 28

Cylinder Nut Crankcase Half 8 11

Cylinder Head (Cap Screw) Crankcase 28 38

Cylinder Head (6 mm) Cylinder 8 11

Cylinder Head (8 mm) Cylinder 20 27

Cylinder Head Cover Cylinder Head 8 11

Oil Pump Drive Gear** Crankshaft 63 86

Driven Pulley Nut** Driveshaft 147 199

Ground Cable Engine 8 11

Output Shaft Flange Nut Output Shaft 59 80

Magneto Rotor Nut Crankshaft 107 146

Cam Sprocket** Camshaft 11 15

Starter Motor Crankcase 8 11

V-Belt Cover Crankcase 8 11

Valve Adjuster Jam Nut Valve Adjuster 7 9.5

Oil Fitting Engine 8 11

Oil Pump* Crankcase 8 11

Movable Drive Face Nut** Clutch Shaft 147 199

Oil Cooler Hose Clamps Engine/Oil Cooler 30 in.-lb 3.4

ENGINE/TRANSMISSION

(500 - Manual Transmission)

Clutch Shoe Crankshaft 94 127

Clutch Sleeve Hub Countershaft 72 98

Crankcase Half (6 mm) Crankcase Half 8 11

Crankcase Half (8 mm) Crankcase Half 16 22

Cylinder Head (Cap Screw) Cylinder 28 38

Cylinder Head (6 mm Nut) Cylinder 8 11

Cylinder Head (8 mm Nut) Cylinder 18 24

Cylinder Head Cover Cylinder Head 7 9.5

Left-Side Cover Crankcase Half 8 11

Oil Pump Drive Gear** Crank Balancer Shaft 36 49

Oil Strainer Cap Strainer 16 22

Oil Pump* Crankcase 7 9.5

Output Shaft Gear Output Shaft 72 98

Rear Output Shaft Output Joint 20 27

Recoil Starter Left-Side Cover 6 8

Starter Motor Crankcase 8 11

Reverse Cam Stopper

Housing

Crankcase 16 22

Right-Side Cover Crankcase 8 11

Magneto Rotor Nut Crankshaft 116 157

Shift Stop Housing Crankcase 16 22

Cam Sprocket** Camshaft 11 15

Starter Cup Crankshaft 25 34

Movable Drive Face Nut** Driveshaft 72 98

Engine Damper Thermostat Housing 7 9.5

FOR ARCTIC CAT ATV DISCOUNT PARTS CALL 606-678-9623 OR 606-561-4983

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1-5

* w/Blue Loctite #243

** w/Red Loctite #271

*** w/Green Loctite #609

ENGINE/TRANSMISSION

(500 - Automatic Transmission)

Part Part Bolted To Torque

ft-lb N-m

Clutch Shoe** Crankshaft 94 127

Clutch Cover/Housing

Assembly

Crankcase 8 11

Crankcase Half (6 mm) Crankcase Half 8 11

Crankcase Half (8 mm) Crankcase Half 16 22

Cylinder Head (Cap Screw) Crankcase 28 38

Cylinder Head (6 mm) Cylinder 8 11

Cylinder Head (8 mm) Cylinder 18 24

Cylinder Head Cover Cylinder Head 7 9.5

Driven Pulley Nut** Driveshaft 80 110

Ground Wire Engine 8 11

Magneto Cover Crankcase 8 11

Movable Drive Face Nut** Fixed Drive Face 72 98

Oil Pump Drive Gear** Crank Balancer

Shaft

36 49

Output Shaft Flange Nut Output Shaft 72 98

Recoil Starter Left-Side Cover 6 8

Magneto Rotor Nut Crankshaft 116 157

Cam Sprocket** Camshaft 10 13.5

Starter Cup Crankshaft 25 34

Starter Motor Crankcase 8 11

V-Belt Cover Crankcase 8 11

Valve Adjuster Jam Nut Valve Adjuster 7 9.5

Oil Pump Crankcase 7 9.5

Drive Pulley Nut** Clutch Shaft 80 110

ENGINE/TRANSMISSION

(H1 Models)

Clutch Shoe** Crankshaft 221 300

Clutch Cover/Housing

Assembly

Crankcase 8 11

Crankcase Half (6 mm) Crankcase Half 8 11

Crankcase Half (8 mm) Crankcase Half 20 27

Cylinder Head (Cap Screw) Crankcase 40 54

Cylinder Head (6 mm) Cylinder 8 11

Cylinder Head (8 mm) Cylinder 18 24

Cylinder Head Cover Cylinder Head 8.5 11.5

Driven Pulley Nut Driveshaft 80 108

Ground Wire Engine 8 11

Magneto Cover Crankcase 8 11

Oil Pump Drive Gear** Crank Balancer

Shaft

63 85

Output Shaft Nut Output Shaft 59 80

Outer Magneto Cover Left-Side Cover 6 8

Magneto Rotor Nut Crankshaft 107 145

Cam Sprocket** Camshaft 10 13.5

Starter Motor Crankcase 8 11

V-Belt Cover Clutch Cover 8 11

Drive Pulley Nut** Clutch Shaft 165 224

Movable Drive Face Nut** Clutch Shaft 165 224

Output Yoke Nut Driven Output

Shaft

74 100

ENGINE/TRANSMISSION

(H2 Models)

Part Part Bolted To Torque

ft-lb N-m

Clutch Shoe** Crankshaft 221 300

Clutch Cover/Housing Assembly Crankcase 8 11

Crankcase Half Crankcase Half 8 11

Crankcase Lower Cover (6 mm) Crankcase 8 11

Crankcase Lower Cover (8 mm) Crankcase 20 27

Cylinder Head (Cap Screw) Crankcase 40 54

Cylinder Head (6 mm) Cylinder 8 11

Cylinder Head (8 mm) Cylinder 18 24

Cylinder Head Cover Cylinder Head 8.5 11.5

Driven Pulley Nut** Driveshaft 80 108

Ground Wire Engine 8 11

Magneto Cover Crankcase 8 11

Oil Filler Cover Crankcase 8 11

Speed Sensor Housing Crankcase 8 11

Starter Motor Crankcase 8 11

V-Belt Housing Crankcase 8 11

Intake Manifold Cylinder 8 11

Output Shaft Nut Output Shaft 59 80

Rotor/Flywheel Nut Crankshaft 107 145

Cam Sprocket** Camshaft 10 13.5

V-Belt Cover Clutch Cover 8 11

Movable Drive Face Nut** Clutch Shaft 165 224

Oil Pump Cover* Crankcase 8 11

Oil Strainer Cap Crankcase 8 11

Shift Cam Stopper Crankcase 8 11

Shift Cam Stopper Spring Shift Cam Stopper 8 11

Shift Cam Plate Shift Cam Shaft 8 11

Shifter Housing Crankcase 8 11

Output Yoke Nut Driven Output Shaft 74 100

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1-6

Torque Conversions

(ft-lb/N-m)

Tightening Torque

(General Bolts)

Break-In Procedure

A new ATV and an overhauled ATV engine require a

“break-in” period. The first 10 hours (or 200 miles) are

most critical to the life of this ATV. Proper operation

during this break-in period will help assure maximum

life and performance from the ATV.

During the first 10 hours (or 200 miles) of operation,

always use less than 1/2 throttle. Varying the engine

RPM during the break-in period allows the compo-

nents to “load” (aiding the mating process) and then

“unload” (allowing components to cool). Although it

is essential to place some stress on the engine compo-

nents during break-in, care should be taken not to

overload the engine too often. Do not pull a trailer or

carry heavy loads during the 10-hour break-in period.

When the engine starts, allow it to warm up properly.

Idle the engine several minutes until the engine has

reached normal operating temperature. Do not idle the

engine for excessively long periods of time.

During the break-in period, a maximum of 1/2 throttle

is recommended; however, brief full-throttle accelera-

tions and variations in driving speeds contribute to

good engine break-in.

After the completion of the break-in period, the engine

oil and oil filter should be changed. Other maintenance

after break-in should include checking of all pre-

scribed adjustments and tightening of all fasteners.

Gasoline - Oil -

Lubricant

RECOMMENDED GASOLINE

The recommended gasoline to use is 87 minimum

octane regular unleaded. In many areas, oxygenates

(either ethanol or MTBE) are added to the gasoline.

Oxygenated gasolines containing up to 10% ethanol,

5% methane, or 5% MTBE are acceptable gasolines.

When using ethanol blended gasoline, it is not neces-

sary to add a gasoline antifreeze since ethanol will pre-

vent the accumulation of moisture in the fuel system.

ft-lb N-m ft-lb N-m ft-lb N-m ft-lb N-m

11.4 26 35.4 51 69.4 76 103.4

22.7 27 36.7 52 70.7 77 104.7

34.1 28 38.1 53 72.1 78 106.1

45.4 29 39.4 54 73.4 79 107.4

56.8 30 40.8 55 74.8 80 108.8

68.2 31 42.2 56 76.2 81 110.2

79.5 32 43.5 57 77.5 82 111.5

810.9 33 44.9 58 78.9 83 112.9

912.2 34 46.2 59 80.2 84 114.2

10 13.6 35 47.6 60 81.6 85 115.6

11 15 36 49 61 83 86 117

12 16.3 37 50.3 62 84.3 87 118.3

13 17.7 38 51.7 63 85.7 88 119.7

14 19 39 53 64 87 89 121

15 20.4 40 54.4 65 88.4 90 122.4

16 21.8 41 55.8 66 89.8 91 123.8

17 23.1 42 57.1 67 91.1 92 125.1

18 24.5 43 58.5 68 92.5 93 126.5

19 25.8 44 59.8 69 93.8 94 127.8

20 27.2 45 61.2 70 95.2 95 129.2

21 28.6 46 62.6 71 96.6 96 130.6

22 29.9 47 63.9 72 97.9 97 131.9

23 31.3 48 65.3 73 99.3 98 133.3

24 32.6 49 66.6 74 100.6 99 134.6

25 34 50 68 75 102 100 136

Type of Bolt Thread Diameter

A (mm)

Tightening

Torque

(Conventional or 4 Marked Bolt) 5 12-36 in.-lb

6 36-60 in.-lb

8 7-11 ft-lb

10 16-25 ft-lb

(7 Marked Bolt) 5 24-48 in.-lb

6 6-8 ft-lb

8 13-20 ft-lb

10 29-43 ft-lb

! CAUTION

Do not use white gas. Only Arctic Cat approved gaso-

line additives should be used.

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1-7

RECOMMENDED ENGINE/

TRANSMISSION OIL

The recommended oil to use is Arctic Cat ACX All

Weather synthetic engine oil, which has been specifi-

cally formulated for use in this Arctic Cat engine.

Although Arctic Cat ACX All Weather synthetic

engine oil is the only oil recommended for use in this

engine, use of any API certified SM 5W-50 oil is

acceptable.

OILCHARTI

RECOMMENDED FRONT

DIFFERENTIAL/REAR DRIVE

LUBRICANT

The recommended lubricant is Arctic Cat Gear Lube

or an equivalent gear lube which is SAE approved

80W-90 hypoid. This lubricant meets all of the lubrica-

tion requirements of the Arctic Cat ATV front differen-

tials and rear drives.

FILLING GAS TANK

Since gasoline expands as its temperature rises, the gas

tank must be filled to its rated capacity only. Expan-

sion room must be maintained in the tank particularly

if the tank is filled with cold gasoline and then moved

to a warm area.

ATV0049B

Tighten the gas tank cap securely after filling the tank.

Genuine Parts

When replacement of parts is necessary, use only gen-

uine Arctic Cat ATV parts. They are precision-made to

ensure high quality and correct fit. Refer to the appro-

priate Illustrated Parts Manual for the correct part

number, quantity, and description.

Preparation For Storage

Arctic Cat recommends the following procedure to

prepare the ATV for storage.

1. Clean the seat cushion (cover and base) with a

damp cloth and allow it to dry.

2. Clean the ATV thoroughly by washing dirt, oil,

grass, and other foreign matter from the entire

ATV. Allow the ATV to dry thoroughly. DO NOT

get water into any part of the engine or air intake.

3. Either drain the gas tank or add Fuel Stabilizer to

the gas in the gas tank. Remove the air filter hous-

ing cover and air filter. Start the engine and allow

it to idle; then using Arctic Cat Engine Storage

Preserver, rapidly inject the preserver into the air

filter opening for a period of 10 to 20 seconds;

then stop the engine. Install the air filter and hous-

ing cover.

! CAUTION

Any oil used in place of the recommended oil could

cause serious engine damage. Do not use oils which

contain graphite or molybdenum additives. These oils

can adversely affect clutch operation. Also, not recom-

mended are racing, vegetable, non-detergent, and cas-

tor-based oils.

! CAUTION

Any lubricant used in place of the recommended lubri-

cant could cause serious front differential/rear drive

damage.

! WARNING

Always fill the gas tank in a well-ventilated area. Never

add fuel to the ATV gas tank near any open flames or

with the engine running. DO NOT SMOKE while filling

the gas tank.

! WARNING

Do not overflow gasoline when filling the gas tank. A

fire hazard could materialize. Always allow the engine

to cool before filling the gas tank.

! WARNING

Do not over-fill the gas tank.

! CAUTION

Prior to storing the ATV, it must be properly serviced

to prevent rusting and component deterioration.

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1-8

4. On carbureted models, drain the carburetor float

chamber.

5. Plug the exhaust hole in the exhaust system with a

clean cloth.

6. Apply light oil to the upper steering post bushing

and plungers of the shock absorbers.

7. Tighten all nuts, bolts, cap screws, and screws.

Make sure rivets holding components together are

tight. Replace all loose rivets. Care must be taken

that all calibrated nuts, cap screws, and bolts are

tightened to specifications.

8. On liquid-cooled models, fill the cooling system to

the bottom of the stand pipe in the radiator neck

with properly mixed coolant.

9. Disconnect the battery cables; then remove the

battery, clean the battery posts and cables, and

store in a clean, dry area.

10. Store the ATV indoors in a level position.

Preparation After

Storage

Taking the ATV out of storage and correctly preparing

it will assure many miles and hours of trouble-free

riding. Arctic Cat recommends the following proce-

dure to prepare the ATV.

1. Clean the ATV thoroughly.

2. Clean the engine. Remove the cloth from the

exhaust system.

3. Check all control wires and cables for signs of

wear or fraying. Replace if necessary.

4. Change the engine/transmission oil and filter.

5. On liquid-cooled models, check the coolant level

and add properly mixed coolant as necessary.

6. Charge the battery; then install. Connect the bat-

tery cables.

7. Check the entire brake systems (fluid level, pads,

etc.), all controls, headlights, taillight, brakelight,

and headlight aim; adjust or replace as necessary.

8. Tighten all nuts, bolts, cap screws, and screws

making sure all calibrated nuts, cap screws, and

bolts are tightened to specifications.

9. Check tire pressure. Inflate to recommended pres-

sure as necessary.

10. Make sure the steering moves freely and does not

bind.

11. Check the spark plug(s). Clean or replace as nec-

essary.

! CAUTION

If the interior of the air filter housing is dirty, clean the

area before starting the engine.

! CAUTION

Avoid storing outside in direct sunlight and avoid

using a plastic cover as moisture will collect on the

ATV causing rusting.

! CAUTION

The ignition switch must be in the OFF position prior

to installing the battery or damage may occur to the

ignition system.

! CAUTION

Connect the positive battery cable first; then the nega-

tive.

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2-1

SECTION 2 -

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Periodic Maintenance Chart.................................... 2-2

Periodic Maintenance.............................................. 2-3

Lubrication Points.................................................... 2-3

Air Filter................................................................... 2-3

Valve/Tappet Clearance

(Feeler Gauge Procedure) ................................... 2-4

Valve/Tappet Clearance

(Valve Adjuster Procedure)

(400/500/H1 Models) ........................................... 2-5

Valve/Tappet Clearance

(Valve Adjuster Procedure) (H2 Models).............. 2-6

Testing Engine Compression .................................. 2-6

Spark Plug(s) .......................................................... 2-7

Muffler/Spark Arrester ............................................. 2-7

Engine/Transmission Oil - Filter - Strainer .............. 2-8

Front Differential/Rear Drive Lubricant .................. 2-10

Adjusting Clutch (500 Manual Transmission) ........ 2-11

Steering Components ........................................... 2-11

Driveshaft/Coupling............................................... 2-11

Suspension/Shock Absorbers/Bushings ............... 2-11

Nuts/Bolts/Cap Screws.......................................... 2-12

Headlights/Taillight-Brakelight ............................... 2-12

Shift Lever ............................................................. 2-13

Frame/Welds/Racks .............................................. 2-14

Electrical Connections........................................... 2-14

Hydraulic Brake Systems ...................................... 2-14

Burnishing Brake Pads.......................................... 2-15

Checking/Replacing V-Belt

(Automatic Transmission)................................... 2-16

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Periodic Maintenance

Chart

A = Adjust I = Inspect

C = Clean L = Lubricate

D = Drain R = Replace

T = Tighten

* Service/Inspect more frequently when operating in adverse conditions.

** When using an API certified SM 5W-50 oil.

*** When using Arctic Cat ACX All Weather synthetic oil, oil change interval can be increased to every 1,000 miles or every year.

Item

Initial Service

After Break-In

(First Mo or 100

Mi)

Every

Day

Every

Month or

Every 100

Miles

Every 3

Months or

Every 300

Miles

Every 6

Months or

Every 500

Miles

Every Year

or Every

1500 Miles

As Needed

Battery I I C

Fuses IR

Air Filter/Drain Tube I I C* R

Valve/Tappet Clearance I I A

Engine Compression I

Spark Plug(s) I I R

(4000 Mi or 18 Mo)

Muffler/Spark Arrester CR

Gas/Vent Hoses I I R (2 Yrs)

Throttle Cable I I C-L A-R

Carburetor Float Chamber

(Carbureted Models)

Engine Idle RPM (Carbureted Models) I I A

Engine-Transmission Oil Level I A

Engine-Transmission Oil/Filter R R*/R**/R*** R

Oil Strainer I I C

Front Differential/Rear Drive Lubricant I I R (4 Yrs)

Clutch (Manual) I l A

Tires/Air Pressure I I R

Steering Components I I I R

V-Belt (Automatic) I l R

Suspension (Ball joint boots, drive axle

boots front and rear, tie rods,

differential and rear drive bellows)

II R

Nuts/Cap Screws/Screws I I T

Ignition Timing I

Headlight/Taillight-Brakelight I I R

Switches I I R

Shift Lever IA-L

Recoil Starter (500) I C-R

Handlebar Grips I R

Handlebar I I R

Gauges/Indicators I I R

Frame/Welds/Racks I l

Electrical Connections I l C

Complete Brake System

(Hydraulic & Auxiliary)

II C L-R

Brake Pads I I* R

Brake Fluid I I R (2 Yrs)

Brake Hoses I I R (4 Yrs)

Coolant (Liquid-Cooled Models)/

Cooling System

II R (2 Yrs)

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2-3

Periodic Maintenance

This section has been organized into sub-sections

which show common maintenance procedures for the

Arctic Cat ATV.

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of new

gaskets, lock nuts, and seals and lubricating all

internal components when servicing the

engine/transmission.

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used

in this section are used for clarity purposes only

and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located

in Section 1.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the

technician when performing service procedures in this

section.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Parts Department.

Lubrication Points

It is advisable to lubricate certain components periodi-

cally to ensure free movement. Apply light oil to the

components using the following list as reference.

A. Throttle Lever Pivot/Cable Ends

B. Brake Lever Pivot/Cable Ends

C. Auxiliary Brake Cable Ends

D. Shift Lever Cable End

E. Idle RPM Screw (Carburetor) (If Applicable)

Air Filter

Use the following procedure to remove the filter and

inspect and/or clean it.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

FILTER

1. Remove the seat; then remove the appropriate

reinstallable rivets securing the storage compart-

ment.

CF260A

2. Raise the storage compartment cover; then slide

the cover forward and off the compartment.

Remove the storage compartment.

FI467

FI468

3. Unsnap the four spring-clip fasteners; then remove

the air filter cover.

Description p/n

Compression Tester Kit 0444-213

Oil Filter Wrench 0644-389

Tachometer 0644-275

Timing Light 0644-296

Valve Clearance Adjuster 0444-078

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CD675A

4. Remove the air filter element/screen assembly and

separate the element from the screen.

5. Fill a wash pan larger than the element with a

non-flammable cleaning solvent; then dip the ele-

ment in the solvent and wash it.

NOTE: Foam Air Filter Cleaner and Foam Air Fil-

ter Oil are available from Arctic Cat.

6. Dry the element.

7. Put the element in a plastic bag; then pour in air

filter oil and work the oil into the element. Attach

the element to the filter screen.

8. Clean any dirt or debris from inside the air cleaner.

Be sure no dirt enters the carburetor (if equipped).

9. Place the filter assembly in the air filter housing

making sure it is properly positioned and properly

seated with the filter screen down.

CD674

10. Install the air filter housing cover and secure with

the retaining clips.

11. Install the storage compartment; then secure with

the reinstallable rivets.

CHECKING AND CLEANING

DRAINS

1. Inspect the drains beneath the main housing for

debris and for proper sealing.

KX045A

2. Replace any drain that is cracked or shows any

signs of hardening or deterioration.

3. Wipe any accumulation of oil or gas from the filter

housing and drains.

Valve/Tappet Clearance

(Feeler Gauge Procedure)

To check and adjust valve/tappet clearance, use the

following procedure.

1. Remove the timing inspection plug; then remove

the tappet covers (for more detailed information,

see Section 3 - Servicing Top-Side Components).

NOTE: On the H2 models, remove the crankshaft

end cap and install the special cap screw

(left-hand threads) to rotate the engine.

2. Rotate the crankshaft to the TDC position on the com-

pression stroke (front cylinder on the H2 models).

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

3. Using a feeler gauge, check each valve/tappet

clearance. If clearance is not within specifications,

loosen the jam nut and rotate the tappet adjuster

screw until the clearance is within specifications.

Tighten each jam nut securely after completing the

adjustment.

! CAUTION

A torn air filter element can cause damage to the ATV

engine. Dirt and dust may get inside the engine if the

element is torn. Carefully examine the element for

tears before and after cleaning it. Replace the element

with a new one if it is torn.

! CAUTION

The drain to the right is the clean air section of the fil-

ter housing. Any leak of this drain will allow dirt into

the engine intake causing severe engine damage.

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2-5

CC007DC

4. On the H2 models, rotate the engine 270° to the

TDC position of the rear cylinder; then repeat step

GZ059

5. Install the timing inspection plug; then on the H2

models, remove the cap screw and install the

crankcase end cap.

6. Place the two tappet covers into position making

sure the proper cap screws are with the proper

cover. Tighten the cap screws securely.

Valve/Tappet Clearance

(Valve Adjuster Procedure)

(400/500/H1 Models)

To check and adjust valve/tappet clearance, use the

following procedure.

NOTE: The seat, storage compartment cover

assembly, compartment box, air filter/filter hous-

ing, and left-side/right-side splash panels must be

removed for this procedure.

1. Remove the timing inspection plug; then remove

the tappet covers (for more detailed information,

see Section 3 - Servicing Top-Side Components).

CF005

2. Rotate the crankshaft to the TDC position on the

compression stroke.

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

NOTE: Use Valve Clearance Adjuster for this pro-

cedure.

3. Place the valve adjuster onto the jam nut securing

the tappet adjuster screw; then rotate the valve

adjuster dial clockwise until the end is seated in

the tappet adjuster screw.

4. While holding the valve adjuster dial in place, use

the valve adjuster handle and loosen the jam nut;

then rotate the tappet adjuster screw clockwise

until friction is felt.

5. Align the valve adjuster handle with one of the

marks on the valve adjuster dial.

6. While holding the valve adjuster handle in place,

rotate the valve adjuster dial counterclockwise

until proper valve/tappet clearance is attained.

NOTE: Refer to the appropriate specifications in

Feeler Gauge Procedure sub-section for the

proper valve/tappet clearance.

! CAUTION

The feeler gauge must be positioned at the same angle

as the valve and valve adjuster for an accurate mea-

surement of clearance. Failure to measure the valve

clearance accurately could cause valve component

damage.

VALVE/TAPPET CLEARANCE (400)

Intake 0.076-0.127 mm (0.003-0.005 in.)

Exhaust 0.152-0.203 mm (0.006-0.008 in.)

VALVE/TAPPET CLEARANCE (500)

Intake 0.05-0.10 mm (0.002-0.004 in.)

Exhaust 0.17-0.22 mm (0.007-0.009 in.)

VALVE/TAPPET CLEARANCE (H1/H2 Models)

Intake 0.1016 mm (0.004 in.)

Exhaust 0.1524 mm (0.006 in.)

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NOTE: Rotating the valve adjuster dial counter-

clockwise will open the valve/tappet clearance by

0.05 mm (0.002 in.) per mark.

7. While holding the adjuster dial at the proper clear-

ance setting, tighten the jam nut securely with the

valve adjuster handle.

8. Place the two tappet covers with O-rings into posi-

tion; then tighten the covers securely.

9. Install the spark plug; then install the timing

inspection plug.

Valve/Tappet Clearance

(Valve Adjuster Procedure)

(H2 Models)

To check and adjust valve/tappet clearance, use the

following procedure.

NOTE: The seat, storage compartment cover

assembly, compartment box, air filter/filter hous-

ing, and left-side/right-side engine panels must be

removed for this procedure.

1. Remove the timing inspection plug; then remove

the tappet covers (for more detailed information,

see Section 3 - Servicing Top-Side Components).

CF005

2. Rotate the crankshaft to the TDC position on the

compression stroke of the front cylinder.

GZ063

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

NOTE: Use Valve Clearance Adjuster for this pro-

cedure.

3. Place the valve adjuster onto the jam nut securing

the tappet adjuster screw; then rotate the valve

adjuster dial clockwise until the end is seated in

the tappet adjuster screw.

4. While holding the valve adjuster dial in place, use

the valve adjuster handle and loosen the jam nut;

then rotate the tappet adjuster screw clockwise

until friction is felt.

5. Align the valve adjuster handle with one of the

marks on the valve adjuster dial.

6. While holding the valve adjuster handle in place,

rotate the valve adjuster dial counterclockwise

until proper valve/tappet clearance is attained.

NOTE: Refer to the appropriate specifications in

Feeler Gauge Procedure sub-section for the

proper valve/tappet clearance.

NOTE: Rotating the valve adjuster dial counter-

clockwise will open the valve/tappet clearance by

0.05 mm (0.002 in.) per mark.

7. While holding the adjuster dial at the proper clear-

ance setting, tighten the jam nut securely with the

valve adjuster handle.

8. Rotate the engine 270° to the TDC position of the

rear cylinder; then repeat steps 4-7 for the rear

cylinder.

9. Place the tappet covers with O-rings into position;

then tighten the covers securely.

10. Install the spark plugs; then install the timing

inspection plug and crankshaft end cap.

Testing Engine

Compression

To test engine compression, use the following proce-

dure.

1. Remove the high tension lead(s) from the spark

plug(s).

2. Using compressed air, blow any debris from

around the spark plug(s).

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when using compressed

air.

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2-7

3. Remove the spark plug(s); then attach the high

tension lead(s) to the plug(s) and ground the

plug(s) on the cylinder head(s) well away from the

spark plug hole(s).

4. Attach the Compression Tester Kit.

NOTE: The engine must be warm and the battery

must be fully charged for this test.

5. While holding the throttle lever in the full-open

position, crank the engine over with the electric

starter until the gauge shows a peak reading (five

to 10 compression strokes).

6. If compression is abnormally low, inspect the

following items.

A. Verify starter cranks engine over at normal

speed (approximately 400 RPM).

B. Gauge functioning properly.

C. Throttle lever in the full-open position.

D. Valve/tappet clearance correct.

E. Valve not bent or burned.

F. Valve seat not burned.

NOTE: To service valves, see Section 3.

7. Pour 29.5 ml (1 fl oz) of oil into the spark plug

hole, reattach the gauge, and retest compression.

8. If compression is now evident, service the piston

rings (see Section 3).

Spark Plug(s)

A light brown insulator indicates that a plug is correct.

A white or dark insulator indicates that the engine may

need to be serviced or the carburetor (if equipped) may

need to be adjusted. To maintain a hot, strong spark,

keep the plug free of carbon.

ATV-0051

Adjust the gap to 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.032 in.) for

proper ignition. Use a feeler gauge to check the gap.

ATV0052C

When installing the spark plug, be sure to tighten it

securely. A new spark plug should be tightened 1/2

turn once the washer contacts the cylinder head. A

used spark plug should be tightened 1/8 - 1/4 turn once

the washer contacts the cylinder head.

Muffler/Spark Arrester

At the intervals shown in the Periodic Maintenance

Chart, clean the spark arrester using the following pro-

cedure.

1. Remove the three cap screws securing the spark

arrester assembly to the muffler; then loosen and

remove the arrester.

PEAK COMPRESSION

MODEL PSI

400 95-115

500 70-85

H1 Models 155-175

H2 Models 75-85 (Front)

120-130 (Rear)

! CAUTION

Before removing a spark plug, be sure to clean the

area around the spark plug. Dirt could enter engine

when removing or installing the spark plug.

! WARNING

Wait until the muffler cools to avoid burns.

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CF105A

2. Using a suitable brush, clean the carbon deposits

from the screen taking care not to damage the

screen.

NOTE: If the screen or gasket is damaged in any

way, it must be replaced.

3. Install the spark arrester assembly with gasket;

then secure with the three cap screws. Tighten to

48 in.-lb.

CF104

Engine/Transmission

Oil - Filter - Strainer

OIL - FILTER

The engine should always be warm when the oil is

changed so the oil will drain easily and completely.

1. Park the ATV on level ground.

2. Remove the oil level stick/filler plug.

ATV-0075

0735-505

3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the

engine and drain the oil into a drain pan.

733-441A

4. Remove the oil filter plug from the filter mounting

boss (located on the front side of the transmission

case) and allow the filter to drain completely.

Install the plug and tighten securely.

5. Using the adjustable Oil Filter Wrench and a suit-

able wrench, remove the old oil filter.

NOTE: Clean up any excess oil after removing

the filter.

6. Apply oil to a new filter O-ring and check to make

sure it is positioned correctly; then install the new

oil filter. Tighten securely.

NOTE: Install a new O-ring each time the filter is

replaced.

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7. Install the engine drain plug and tighten to 16 ft-lb.

Pour the specified amount of the recommended oil

in the filler hole. Install the oil level stick/filler

plug.

8. Start the engine (while the ATV is outside on level

ground) and allow it to idle for a few minutes.

9. Turn the engine off and wait approximately one

minute.

10. Remove the oil level stick and wipe it with a clean

cloth.

11. Install the oil level stick until the threads touch the

engine case.

NOTE: On the 400/H1/H2 models, the oil level

stick should be threaded into the case for check-

ing purposes.

12. Remove the oil level stick; the engine oil level

should be above the illustrated “L” mark but not

higher than the illustrated “F” mark.

ATV-0100

ATV-0100AA

13. Inspect the area around the drain plug and oil filter

for leaks.

STRAINER

1. Remove the belly panel.

2. Remove the cap screws securing the oil strainer

cap; then remove the cap. Account for the O-ring

(400/500).

CC091D

3. Remove the two cap screws securing the strainer;

then remove the strainer.

NOTE: On the H1/H2 models, thoroughly clean

any sealant from the oil strainer cap.

CC163D

! CAUTION

Any oil used in place of the recommended oil could

cause serious engine damage. Do not use oils which

contain graphite or molybdenum additives. These oils

can adversely affect clutch operation. Also, not recom-

mended are racing, vegetable, non-detergent, and cas-

tor-based oils.

! CAUTION

Do not over-fill the engine with oil. Always make sure

that the oil level is above the “L” mark but not higher

than the “F” mark.

500

 AT THIS POINT

To check/service oil strainer, see Section 3.

400/H1/H2 Models

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2-10

4. Place the oil strainer into position beneath the

crankcase and secure with the cap screws. Tighten

securely.

5. Place the strainer cap into position on the strainer

making sure the O-ring is properly installed

(400/500) or silicone sealant is applied (H1/H2

models); then secure with the cap screws. Tighten

securely.

CC091D

6. Install the belly panel.

Front Differential/Rear

Drive Lubricant

NOTE: On the H2 models, the rear drive incorpo-

rates a shock-limiting clutch pack in the gear case

input assembly that is designed to cushion drive-

line shock.

When changing the lubricant, use approved SAE

80W-90 hypoid gear lube.

To check lubricant, remove the fill plug; the lubricant

level should be 1 in. below the threads of the plug. If

low, add SAE approved 80W-90 hypoid gear lubricant

as necessary.

To change the lubricant, use the following procedure.

1. Place the ATV on level ground.

2. Remove each fill plug.

AL677C

3. Drain the lubricant into a drain pan by removing in

turn the drain plug from each.

ATV0082A

737-651B

4. After all the lubricant has been drained, install the

drain plugs and tighten to 45 in.-lb.

5. Pour the appropriate amount of approved SAE

80W-90 hypoid gear lubricant into the filler hole.

6. Install the fill plugs.

NOTE: If the differential/rear drive lubricant is

contaminated with water, inspect the drain plug,

fill plug, and/or bladder.

! CAUTION

Any lubricant used in place of the recommended gear

case lubricant could result in premature failure of the

shock limiter. Do not use any lubricant containing

graphite or molybdenum additives or other fric-

tion-modified lubricants as these may cause severe

damage to shock limiter components.

! CAUTION

Water entering the outer end of the axle will not be

able to enter the rear drive unless the seals are dam-

aged.

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Adjusting Clutch

(500 Manual Transmission)

To adjust the clutch, use the following procedure.

1. Using an impact driver, remove the screws secur-

ing the cover and remove the cover. Account for

the O-ring.

AM600D

2. Loosen the jam nuts securing adjustment screw #1

(forward) and adjustment screw #2 (rearward).

CC037D

3. Rotate adjustment screw #1 counterclockwise

until it stops.

CC038D

4. Rotate adjustment screw #2 alternately clockwise

and counterclockwise to ensure free movement

without binding; then lock the jam nut securing

adjustment screw #2.

5. Rotate adjustment screw #1 clockwise 1/8 turn;

then lock the jam nut securing adjustment screw

#1.

NOTE: At this point the clutch should be

adjusted correctly. Test to ensure accurate adjust-

ment.

6. Install the cover making sure the O-ring is prop-

erly positioned; then secure with the screws.

Steering Components

The following steering components should be

inspected periodically to ensure safe and proper opera-

tion.

A. Handlebar grips not worn, broken, or loose.

B. Handlebar not bent, cracked, and has equal and

complete full-left and full-right capability.

C. Steering post bearing assembly/bearing housing

not broken, worn, or binding.

D. Ball joints not worn, cracked, or damaged.

E. Tie rods not bent or cracked.

F. Knuckles not worn, cracked, or damaged.

G. Cotter pins not damaged or missing.

Driveshaft/Coupling

The following drive system components should be

inspected periodically to ensure proper operation.

A. Spline lateral movement (slop).

B. Coupling cracked, damaged, or worn.

Suspension/Shock

Absorbers/Bushings

The following suspension system components should

be inspected periodically to ensure proper operation.

A. Shock absorber rods not bent, pitted, or dam-

aged.

B. Rubber damper not cracked, broken, or miss-

ing.

C. Shock absorber body not damaged, punctured,

or leaking.

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2-12

D. Shock absorber eyelets not broken, bent, or

cracked.

E. Shock absorber eyelet bushings not worn, dete-

riorated, cracked, or missing.

F. Shock absorber spring not broken or sagging.

Nuts/Bolts/Cap Screws

Tighten all nuts, bolts, and cap screws. Make sure riv-

ets holding components together are tight. Replace all

loose rivets. Care must be taken that all calibrated

nuts, bolts, and cap screws are tightened to specifica-

tions (see Section 1).

Headlights/Taillight-

Brakelight

Rotate the ignition switch to the lights position; the

headlights and taillight should illuminate. Test the

brakelight by compressing the brake lever. The brake-

light should illuminate.

HEADLIGHTS

NOTE: The bulb portion of a headlight is fragile.

HANDLE WITH CARE. When replacing a headlight

bulb, do not touch the glass portion of the bulb. If

the glass is touched, it must be cleaned with a dry

cloth before installing. Skin oil residue on the bulb

will shorten the life of the bulb.

To replace a headlight bulb, use the following proce-

dure.

1. Remove the wiring harness connector from the

back of the headlight.

2. Grasp the bulb housing, turn it counterclockwise,

and remove the bulb.

3. Install the new bulb into the housing and rotate it

completely clockwise.

4. Install the wiring harness connector.

TAILLIGHT-BRAKELIGHT

To replace the taillight-brakelight bulb, use the follow-

ing procedure.

1. Turn the bulb socket assembly counterclockwise

and remove from the housing.

CF135A

2. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket; then insert

a new bulb.

CF132A

3. Insert the bulb socket assembly into the housing

and turn it clockwise to secure.

CHECKING/ADJUSTING

HEADLIGHT AIM

The headlights can be adjusted vertically and horizon-

tally. The geometric center of the HIGH beam light

zone is to be used for vertical and horizontal aiming.

1. Position the ATV on a level floor so the headlights

are approximately 6.1 m (20 ft) from an aiming

surface (wall or similar aiming surface).

ATV-0070C

NOTE: There should be an average operating

load on the ATV when adjusting the headlight aim.

! WARNING

Do not attempt to remove a bulb when it is hot. Severe

burns may result.

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2-13

2. Measure the distance from the floor to the

mid-point of each headlight.

3. Using the measurements obtained in step 2, make

horizontal marks on the aiming surface.

4. Make vertical marks which intersect the horizontal

marks on the aiming surface directly in front of the

headlights.

5. Switch on the lights. Make sure the HIGH beam is

on. DO NOT USE LOW BEAM.

6. Observe each headlight beam aim. Proper aim is

when the most intense beam is centered on the ver-

tical mark 5 cm (2 in.) below the horizontal mark

on the aiming surface.

7. Adjust each headlight by turning the adjuster knob

clockwise to raise the beam or counterclockwise to

lower the beam.

CD714A

Shift Lever

CHECKING ADJUSTMENT

CF238A

CF130A

Stop the ATV completely and shift the transmission

into the R position. The reverse gear indicator light

should be illuminated.

If the reverse light does not illuminate when shifted to

the reverse position, the switch may be faulty, the fuse

may be blown, the bulb may be faulty, a connection

may be loose or corroded, or the lever may need

adjusting. To adjust, proceed to Adjusting Shift Lever.

ADJUSTING SHIFT LEVER

1. Remove the seat; then remove the left-side engine

cover.

2. With the ignition switch in the ON position, loosen

jam nut (A) (left-hand threads); then loosen jam

nut (C) and with the shift lever in the reverse posi-

tion, adjust the coupler (B) until the transmission

is in reverse and the (R) icon appears on the LCD.

CF258A

3. Tighten the jam nuts securely; then shift the trans-

mission to each position and verify correct adjust-

ment.

4. Install the left-side engine cover and seat making

sure the seat locks securely in place.

! WARNING

Never shift the ATV into reverse gear when the ATV is

moving as it could cause the ATV to stop suddenly

throwing the operator from the ATV.

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2-14

NOTE: An E (Error) in the gear position icon indi-

cates no signal or a poor ground wire connection

in the circuit. Troubleshoot the harness connec-

tors, gear shift position switch connector, gear

shift position switch, and LCD connector.

Frame/Welds/Racks

The frame, welds, and racks should be checked period-

ically for damage, bends, cracks, deterioration, broken

components, and missing components. If replacement

or repair constitutes removal, see Section 8.

Electrical Connections

The electrical connections should be checked periodi-

cally for proper function. In case of an electrical fail-

ure, check fuses, connections (for tightness, corrosion,

damage), and/or bulbs. If an electrical component

needs to be tested for proper function, see Section 5.

Hydraulic Brake

Systems

CHECKING/BLEEDING

The hydraulic brake systems have been filled and bled

at the factory. To check and/or bleed a hydraulic brake

system, use the following procedure.

1. With the master cylinder in a level position, check

the fluid level in the reservoir. On the hand brake

if the level in the reservoir is adequate, the sight

glass will appear dark. If the level is low, the sight

glass will appear clear. On the auxiliary brake the

level must be between the MIN and MAX lines on

the reservoir.

738-420A

AL681

2. Compress the brake lever/pedal several times to

check for a firm brake. If the brake is not firm, the

system must be bled.

3. To bleed the brake system, use the following pro-

cedure.

A. Remove the cover and fill the reservoir with

DOT 4 Brake Fluid.

B. Install and secure the cover; then slowly com-

press the brake lever/pedal several times.

C. Remove the protective cap, install one end of a

clear hose onto one FRONT bleeder screw, and

direct the other end into a container; then while

holding slight pressure on the brake lever/pedal,

open the bleeder screw and watch for air bub-

bles. Close the bleeder screw before releasing

the brake lever/pedal. Repeat this procedure

until no air bubbles are present.

AF637D

PR377C

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2-15

NOTE: During the bleeding procedure, watch the

reservoir/sight glass very closely to make sure

there is always a sufficient amount of brake fluid. If

low, refill the reservoir before the bleeding proce-

dure is continued. Failure to maintain a sufficient

amount of fluid in the reservoir will result in air in

the system.

D. Repeat step C until the brake lever/pedal is

firm.

E. At this point, perform step B, C, and D on the

other FRONT bleeder screw; then move to the

REAR bleeder screw and follow the same pro-

cedure.

4. Carefully check the entire hydraulic brake system

that all hose connections are tight, the bleed

screws are tight, the protective caps are installed,

and no leakage is present.

INSPECTING HOSES

Carefully inspect the hydraulic brake hoses for cracks

or other damage. If found, the brake hoses must be

replaced.

CHECKING/REPLACING PADS

The clearance between the brake pads and brake discs

is adjusted automatically as the brake pads wear. The

only maintenance that is required is replacement of the

brake pads when they show excessive wear. Check the

thickness of each of the brake pads as follows.

1. Remove a front wheel.

2. Measure the thickness of each brake pad.

3. If thickness of either brake pad is less than 1.0 mm

(0.039 in.), the brake pads must be replaced.

PR376B

NOTE: The brake pads should be replaced as a

set.

4. To replace the brake pads, use the following proce-

dure.

A. Remove the wheel.

B. Remove the cap screws securing the caliper

holder to the knuckle; then remove the pads.

PR237

C. Install the new brake pads.

D. Secure the caliper to the knuckle and/or axle

housing with the cap screws. Tighten to 20

ft-lb.

PR377B

E. Install the wheel. Tighten to 40 ft-lb.

5. Burnish the brake pads (see Burnishing Brake

Pads in this section).

Burnishing Brake Pads

Brake pads (both hydraulic and auxiliary) must be bur-

nished to achieve full braking effectiveness. Braking

distance will be extended until brake pads are properly

burnished. To properly burnish the brake pads, use the

following procedure.

! CAUTION

This hydraulic brake system is designed to use DOT 4

brake fluid only. If brake fluid must be added, care

must be taken as brake fluid is very corrosive to

painted surfaces.

! WARNING

Failure to properly burnish the brake pads could lead

to premature brake pad wear or brake loss. Brake loss

can result in severe injury.

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2-16

1. Choose an area large enough to safely accelerate

the ATV to 30 mph and to brake to a stop.

2. Accelerate to 30 mph; then compress brake lever

or apply the auxiliary brake to decelerate to 0-5

mph.

3. Repeat procedure on each brake system five times.

4. Adjust the auxiliary brake (if necessary).

5. Verify that the brakelight illuminates when the

hand lever is compressed or the brake pedal is

depressed.

Checking/Replacing

V-Belt

(Automatic Transmission)

REMOVING

1. Remove the right-side footrest (see Section 8).

2. Remove the cap screws securing the V-belt cover

noting the location of the different-lengthed cap

screws for installing purposes; then using a rubber

mallet, gently tap on the cover tabs to loosen the

cover. Remove the cover.

CD078

NOTE: Note the location of the main engine

ground wire for installing purposes.

3. Remove the nut securing the movable drive face;

then remove the face. Account for the spacer.

CC546

CC547

4. Remove the V-belt.

CC550

INSTALLING

1. Spread the faces of the driven clutch by pushing

the inner face toward the engine while turning it

counterclockwise (500) or threading in a push-bolt

(400/H1/H2 models); then when the faces are sep-

arated, insert the belt and push down between the

faces.

2. Place the V-belt into position over the front shaft.

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2-17

CC550

NOTE: The arrow on the V-belt should point for-

ward.

3. Pinch the V-belt together near its center and slide

the spacer and movable drive face onto the drive-

shaft. Secure the drive face with a nut (threads

coated with red Loctite #271). Tighten the nut to

147 ft-lb (400), 72 ft-lb (500) or 165 ft-lb (H1/H2

models).

CC552

NOTE: At this point, the push-bolt can be

removed.

4. Rotate the V-belt and clutches until the V-belt is

flush with the top of the driven clutch.

5. Place the V-belt cover gasket into position; then

install the cover and secure with the cap screws

making sure the different-lengthed cap screws are

in their proper location. Tighten the cap screws to

8 ft-lb.

CD083

NOTE: Make sure the main engine ground wire is

installed and secured in the proper location.

6. Secure the front fender to the footrest with the two

cap screws. Tighten securely.

7. Install the right-side footrest (see Section 8).

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3-1

SECTION 3 - ENGINE/TRANSMISSION

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Engine/Transmission ............................................... 3-2

Specifications (400)................................................. 3-2

Specifications (500)................................................. 3-3

Specifications (H1 Models)...................................... 3-4

Specifications (H2 Models)...................................... 3-4

Troubleshooting ....................................................... 3-5

400 Table of Contents ............................................. 3-9

500 (Automatic Transmission)/H1 Models

Table of Contents ............................................... 3-50

500 (Manual Transmission) Table of Contents .... 3-102

H2 Models Table of Contents .............................. 3-166

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3-2

Engine/Transmission

This section has been organized into sub-sections

which show a progression for the complete servicing

of the Arctic Cat ATV engine/transmission.

To service the center crankcase halves, the

engine/transmission must be removed from the frame.

To service top-side, left-side, and right-side compo-

nents, the engine/transmission does not have to be

removed from the frame.

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of new

gaskets, lock nuts, and seals and lubricating all

internal components when servicing the engine/

transmission.

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used

in this section are used for clarity purposes only

and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located

in Section 1.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the

technician when performing service procedures in this

section. Refer to the current Special Tools Catalog for

the appropriate tool description.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Parts Department.

Specifications*

(400)

* Specifications subject to change without notice.

Description p/n

Clutch Sleeve Hub Holder 0444-007

Connecting Rod Holder 0444-006

Crankcase Separator/Crankshaft Remover 0444-009

Driven Pulley Compressor 0444-121

Driven Pulley Compressor 0444-140

Magneto Rotor Remover Set 0444-206

Oil Filter Wrench 0644-389

Piston Pin Puller 0644-328

Side Case Puller 0644-262

Side Case Puller 0644-365

Spanner Wrench 0444-153

Surface Plate 0644-016

Valve Clearance Adjuster 0444-078

V Blocks 0644-022

VALVES AND GUIDES

Valve Face Diameter (intake)

(exhaust)

30.6 mm

27.0 mm

Valve/Tappet Clearance (cold engine) (intake)

(exhaust)

0.076-0.127 mm

0.152-0.203 mm

Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (max) (intake)

(exhaust)

0.04 mm

0.06 mm

Valve Guide/Valve Stem Deflection (max)

(wobble method)

0.35 mm

Valve Guide Inside Diameter 5.000-5.015 mm

Valve Stem Outside Diameter (intake)

(exhaust)

4.975-4.990 mm

4.955-4.970 mm

Valve Stem Runout (max) 0.05 mm

Valve Head Thickness (intake)

(exhaust)

2.03 mm

2.28 mm

Valve Face/Seat Width (min) (intake)

(exhaust)

2.25 mm

2.55 mm

Valve Seat Angle (intake/exhaust) 45°

Valve Face Radial Runout (max) 0.03 mm

Valve Spring Free Length (min) 42.8 mm

Valve Spring Tension @ 32.5 mm (outer) 18.6-21.4 kg

(41-47 lb)

CAMSHAFT AND CYLINDER HEAD

Cam Lobe Height (min) (intake/exhaust) 33.53 mm

Camshaft Journal/Cylinder Head Clearance(max) 0.081 mm

Camshaft Journal Holder (right & center)

Inside Diameter (left)

22.01-22.04 mm

17.51-17.54 mm

Camshaft Journal Outside (right & center)

Diameter (left)

21.959-21.980 mm

17.466-17.480 mm

Camshaft Runout (max) 0.03 mm

Rocker Arm Inside Diameter 12.000-12.018 mm

Rocker Arm Shaft Outside Diameter 11.975-11.987 mm

Cylinder Head/Cover Distortion (max) 0.05 mm

CYLINDER, PISTON, AND RINGS

Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.060-0.073 mm

Piston Diameter 15 mm from Skirt End 80.98-81.00 mm

Piston Ring Free End Gap (min) (1st)

(2nd)

8.0 mm

8.3 mm

Bore x Stroke 81.0 x 71.2 mm

Cylinder Trueness (max) 0.01 mm

Piston Ring End Gap - Installed (min) 0.15 mm

Piston Ring to Groove Clearance (max) (1st/2nd) 0.06 mm

Piston Ring Groove Width (1st)

(2nd)

(oil)

1.01-1.03 mm

1.21-1.23 mm

2.01-2.03 mm

Piston Ring Thickness (1st)

(2nd)

0.97-0.99 mm

1.17-1.19 mm

Piston Pin Bore (max) 20.008 mm

Piston Pin (min) 19.994 mm

CRANKSHAFT

Connecting Rod (small end) (max) 20.021 mm

Connecting Rod (big end side-to-side) 0.10-0.55 mm

Connecting Rod (big end width) 21.95-22.00 mm

Connecting Rod (small end deflection) (max) 0.3 mm

Crankshaft (web-to-web) 60.8-60.9 mm

Crankshaft Runout (max) 0.03 mm

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3-3

Specifications*

(500)

* Specifications subject to change without notice.

VALVES AND GUIDES

Valve Face Diameter (intake)

(exhaust)

30.6 mm

27.0 mm

Valve/Tappet Clearance (cold engine) (intake)

(exhaust)

0.05-0.10 mm

0.17-0.22 mm

Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (intake)

(exhaust)

0.010-0.037 mm

0.030-0.057 mm

Valve Guide/Valve Stem Deflection (max)

(wobble deflection)

0.35 mm

Valve Guide Inside Diameter 5.000-5.012 mm

Valve Stem Outside Diameter (intake)

(exhaust)

4.975-4.990 mm

4.955-4.970 mm

Valve Stem Runout (max) 0.05 mm

Valve Head Thickness (min) 0.5 mm

Valve Stem End Length (min) 2.3 mm

Valve Face/Seat Width 0.9-1.1 mm

Valve Seat Angle (intake/exhaust) 45°

Valve Face Radial Runout (max) 0.03 mm

Valve Spring Free Length (min) 38.8 mm

Valve Spring Tension @ 31.5 mm (outer) 18.6-21.4 kg

(41-47 lb)

CAMSHAFT AND CYLINDER HEAD

Cam Lobe Height (min) (intake)

(exhaust)

33.13 mm

33.20 mm

Camshaft Journal/Cylinder Head Clearance(max) 0.15 mm

Camshaft Journal Holder (right & center)

Inside Diameter (left)

22.012-22.025 mm

17.512-17.525 mm

Camshaft Journal (right & center)

Outside Diameter (left)

21.959-21.980 mm

17.466-17.484 mm

Camshaft Runout (max) 0.10 mm

Rocker Arm Inside Diameter 12.000-12.018 mm

Rocker Arm Shaft Outside Diameter 11.973-11.984 mm

Cylinder Head Distortion (max) 0.05 mm

Cylinder Head Cover Distortion (max) 0.05 mm

CYLINDER, PISTON, AND RINGS

Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.030-0.040 mm

Piston Diameter 15 mm from Skirt End 87.465-87.480 mm

Piston Ring Free End Gap (min) (1st)

(2nd)

9.0 mm

9.5 mm

Bore x Stroke 87.5 x 82 mm

Cylinder Trueness (max) 0.05 mm

Piston Ring End Gap - Installed (min) 0.35 mm

Piston Ring to Groove Clearance (max) (1st)

(2nd)

0.180 mm

0.150 mm

Piston Ring Groove Width (1st)

(2nd)

(oil)

1.01-1.03 mm

1.21-1.23 mm

2.51-2.53 mm

Piston Ring Thickness (1st)

(2nd)

0.97-0.99 mm

1.17-1.19 mm

Piston Pin Bore (max) 23.03 mm

Piston Pin Outside Diameter (min) 22.98 mm

CRANKSHAFT

Connecting Rod (small end inside diameter)(max) 23.04 mm

Connecting Rod (big end side-to-side) 0.10-0.65 mm

Connecting Rod (big end width) 24.95-25.00 mm

Connecting Rod (small end deflection) (max) 3 mm

Crankshaft (web-to-web) 71.02-71.22 mm

Crankshaft Runout (max) 0.08 mm

CLUTCH (Manual Transmission)

Clutch Release Screw 1/4-1/2 turn back

Drive Plate (fiber) Thickness (min) 2.82 mm

Drive Plate (fiber) Tab (min) 2.9 mm

Driven Plate (warpage) (max) 0.1 mm

Clutch Spring Length (min) 35.6 mm

Clutch Wheel Inside Diameter 140.0-140.2 mm

Starter Clutch Shoe No groove at any part

Clutch Engagement RPM 1700 ± 200

Clutch Lock-Up RPM 3700 ± 300

Primary Reduction Ratio 2.032 (63/31)

Secondary Reduction Ratio 1.133 (17/15)

Final Reduction Ratio (front/rear) 3.6 (36/10)

Secondary Transmission Reduction (low)

Ratio

(high)

2.419

(22/23 x 27/17 x43/27)

1.592 (43/27)

Gear Ratios (1st)

(2nd)

(3rd)

(4th)

(5th)

(reverse)

3.09 (34/11)

1.75 (28/16)

1.2 (24/20)

0.875 (21/24)

0.724 (21/29)

2.636 (24/11 x 29/24)

Shift Fork to Groove (side clearance) 0.1-0.3 mm

Shift Fork Groove Width (#1 and #2)

(secondary transmission)

(reverse)

5.5-5.6 mm

5.0-5.1 mm

Shift Fork Thickness (#1 and #2)

(secondary transmission)

(reverse)

5.3-5.4 mm

4.8-4.9 mm

Thermostat Valve Opening Temperature 73.5-76.5°C

(164-170°F)

Thermostat Valve Lift Over 3 mm @ 90°C

(194°F)

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3-4

Specifications*

(H1 Models)

* Specifications subject to change without notice.

Specifications*

(H2 Models)

* Specifications subject to change without notice.

VALVES AND GUIDES

Valve Face Diameter (intake)

(exhaust)

31.6 mm

27.9 mm

Valve/Tappet Clearance (cold engine) (intake)

(exhaust)

0.1016 mm

0.1524 mm

Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (intake/exhaust) 0.013 mm

Valve Guide/Valve Stem Deflection (max)

(wobble method)

0.35 mm

Valve Guide Inside Diameter 5.000-5.012 mm

Valve Stem Outside Diameter (intake/exhaust) 4.972-4.987 mm

Valve Stem Runout (max) 0.1 mm

Valve Head Thickness (min) 2.3 mm

Valve Stem End Length (min) 3.97 mm

Valve Face/Seat Width (intake)

(exhaust)

2.25 mm

2.60 mm

Valve Seat Angle (intake/exhaust) 45° 15’-45° 30’

Valve Face Radial Runout (max) 0.2 mm

Valve Spring Free Length (min) 38.7 mm

Valve Spring Tension @ 31.5 mm (outer) 19.0 kg (42 lb)

CAMSHAFT AND CYLINDER HEAD

Cam Lobe Height (min) (intake/exhaust) 33.53 mm

Camshaft Journal/Cylinder (max)

Head Clearance

0.04 mm

Camshaft Journal Holder (right & center)

Inside Diameter (left)

21.98-22.04 mm

17.48-17.53 mm

Camshaft Journal Outside (right & center)

Diameter (left)

21.96-21.98 mm

17.47-17.48 mm

Camshaft Runout (max) 0.05 mm

Rocker Arm Inside Diameter

12.000-12.018 mm

Rocker Arm Shaft Outside Diameter 11.97-11.98 mm

Cylinder Head/Cover Distortion (max) 0.05 mm

CYLINDER, PISTON, AND RINGS

Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.045 mm

Piston Diameter 15 mm from Skirt End (550)

97.948-97.962 mm

Piston Diameter 12 mm from Skirt End (700) 101.930-

101.949 mm

Piston Ring Free End Gap (1st/2nd) 12.5 mm

Bore x Stroke 92 x 82 mm - 550

102 x 82 mm - 700

Cylinder Trueness (max) 0.01 mm

Piston Ring End Gap - Installed (min) 0.36 mm

Piston Ring to Groove Clearance (max) (1st/2nd) 0.03 mm

Piston Ring Groove Width (1st/2nd)

(oil)

1.202-1.204 mm

2.01-2.03 mm

Piston Ring Thickness (1st/2nd) 1.970-1.990 mm

Piston Pin Bore (max) 23.0 mm

Piston Pin Outside Diameter (min) 22.99 mm

CRANKSHAFT

Connecting Rod (max)

(small end inside diameter)

23.021 mm

Connecting Rod (big end side-to-side) 0.6 mm

Connecting Rod (big end width) 25 mm

Connecting Rod @ 150 mm (max)

(small end deflection)

0.3 mm

Crankshaft (web-to-web) 71 mm

Crankshaft Runout (max) 0.03 mm

VALVES AND GUIDES

Valve Face Diameter (intake)

(exhaust)

31.6 mm

27.9 mm

Valve/Tappet Clearance (cold engine) (intake)

(exhaust)

0.1016 mm

0.1524 mm

Valve Guide/Stem Clearance (intake/exhaust) 0.013 mm

Valve Guide/Valve Stem Deflection (max)

(wobble method)

0.35 mm

Valve Guide Inside Diameter 5.000-5.012 mm

Valve Stem Outside Diameter (intake/exhaust) 4.972-4.987 mm

Valve Stem Runout (max) 0.1 mm

Valve Head Thickness (min) 2.3 mm

Valve Stem End Length (min) 3.97 mm

Valve Face/Seat Width (intake)

(exhaust)

2.25 mm

2.60 mm

Valve Seat Angle (intake/exhaust) 45° 15’-45° 30’

Valve Face Radial Runout (max) 0.2 mm

Valve Spring Free Length (min) 38.7 mm

Valve Spring Tension @ 31.5 mm (outer) 19.0 kg (42 lb)

CAMSHAFT AND CYLINDER HEAD

Cam Lobe Height (min) (intake/exhaust) 33.53 mm

Camshaft Journal/Cylinder (max)

Head Clearance

0.04 mm

Camshaft Journal Holder (right & center)

Inside Diameter (left)

21.98-22.04

17.48-17.53 mm

Camshaft Journal Outside (right & center)

Diameter (left)

21.96-21.98

17.47-17.48 mm

Camshaft Runout (max) 0.05 mm

Rocker Arm Inside Diameter 12.000-12.018 mm

Rocker Arm Shaft Outside Diameter 11.97-11.98 mm

Cylinder Head/Cover Distortion (max) 0.05 mm

CYLINDER, PISTON, AND RINGS

Piston Skirt/Cylinder Clearance 0.05 mm

Piston Diameter 15 mm from Skirt End 91.949-97.959 mm

Piston Ring End Gap (min) (1st/2nd) 12.5 mm

Bore x Stroke 92 x 71.5 mm

Cylinder Trueness (max) 0.0075 mm

Piston Ring End Gap - Installed 0.36 mm

Piston Ring to Groove Clearance (max) (1st)

(2nd)

0.034 mm

0.033 mm

Piston Ring Groove Width (1st/2nd)

(oil)

1.202-1.204 mm

2.501-2.503 mm

Piston Ring Thickness (1st/2nd) 1.170-1.195 mm

Piston Pin Bore (max) 20.012 mm

Piston Pin Outside Diameter (min) 19.995 mm

CRANKSHAFT

Connecting Rod (max)

(small end inside diameter)

20.021 mm

Connecting Rod (big end side-to-side) 0.95 mm

Connecting Rod (big end width) 21.95 mm

Connecting Rod @ 150 mm (max)

(small end deflection)

0.3 mm

Crankshaft (web-to-web) 98 mm

Crankshaft Runout (max) 0.03 mm

Oil Pump Gerotor Clearance (max) 0.15 mm

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3-5

Troubleshooting

NOTE: A Condition/Remedy marked with an asterisk (*) is for the manual transmission model only.

Problem: Engine will not start or is hard to start (Compression too low)

Condition Remedy

1. Valve clearance out of adjustment

2. Valve guides worn - seated poorly

3. Valves mistimed

4. Piston rings worn excessively

5. Cylinder bore worn

6. Spark plug seating poorly

7. Starter motor cranks too slowly - does not turn

1. Adjust clearance

2. Repair - replace guides

3. Adjust valve timing

4. Replace rings

5. Replace - rebore cylinder

6. Tighten plug

7. See Section 5 - Troubleshooting

Problem: Engine will not start or is hard to start (No spark)

Condition Remedy

1. Spark plug fouled

2. Spark plug wet

3. Magneto defective

4. CDI unit/ECU defective

5. Ignition coil defective

6. High-tension lead open - shorted

1. Clean - replace plug

2. Clean - dry plug

3. Replace magneto

4. Replace CDI unit/ECU

5. Replace ignition coil

6. Replace high tension lead

Problem: Engine will not start or is hard to start (No fuel reaching the carburetor/fuel injector)

Condition Remedy

1. Gas tank vent hose obstructed

2. Carburetor float valve defective

3. Fuel hose obstructed

4. Fuel screens obstructed

5. Fuel pump defective

1. Clean vent hose

2. Replace valve

3. Clean - replace hose

4. Clean - replace inlet screen - valve screen

5. Replace fuel pump

Problem: Engine stalls easily

Condition Remedy

1. Spark plug fouled

2. Magneto defective

3. CDI unit/ECU defective

4. Carburetor jets/fuel injector obstructed

5. Valve clearance out of adjustment

1. Clean plug

2. Replace magneto

3. Replace CDI unit/ECU

4. Clean jets/replace fuel injector

5. Adjust clearance

Problem: Engine noisy (Excessive valve chatter)

Condition Remedy

1. Valve clearance too large

2. Valve spring(s) weak - broken

3. Rocker arm - rocker arm shaft worn

4. Camshaft worn

5. Valve tappets worn

1. Adjust clearance

2. Replace spring(s)

3. Replace arm - shaft

4. Replace camshaft

5. Replace tappets

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from piston)

Condition Remedy

1. Piston - cylinder worn

2. Combustion chamber carbon buildup

3. Piston pin - piston pin bore worn

4. Piston rings - ring groove(s) worn

1. Replace - service piston - cylinder

2. Clean chamber

3. Replace - service pin - bore

4. Replace rings - piston

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from timing chain)

Condition Remedy

1. Chain stretched

2. Sprockets worn

3. Tension adjuster malfunctioning

1. Replace chain

2. Replace sprockets

3. Repair - replace adjuster

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3-6

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from clutch)

Condition * Remedy *

1. Crankshaft splines - bearings worn

2. Countershaft - hub splines worn

3. Clutch plate teeth worn

4. Driven - drive clutch plates distorted - broken

5. Clutch dampers weak

1. Replace crankshaft - bearings

2. Replace countershaft - hub

3. Replace clutch plate(s)

4. Replace clutch plate(s)

5. Replace dampers

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from crankshaft)

Condition Remedy

1. Bearing worn - burned

2. Lower rod-end bearing worn - burned

3. Connecting rod side clearance too large

1. Replace bearing

2. Replace bearing

3. Replace thrust washer(s)

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from transmission)

Condition Remedy

1. Gears worn - rubbing

2. Splines worn

3. Primary gears worn - rubbing

4. Bearings worn

5. Bushing worn

1. Replace gears

2. Replace shaft(s)

3. Replace gears

4. Replace bearings

5. Replace bushing

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from secondary-transmission/left-side cover)

Condition * Remedy *

1. Gears - shaft(s) worn

2. Bearing(s)/bushing(s) damaged

1. Replace gears - shafts

2. Replace bearing(s)/bushing(s)

Problem: Engine noisy (Noise seems to come from secondary bevel gear and final driven shaft)

Condition Remedy

1. Drive - driven bevel gears damaged - worn

2. Backlash excessive

3. Tooth contact improper

4. Bearing damaged

5. Gears worn - rubbing

6. Splines worn

7. Final driven shaft thrust clearance too large

1. Replace gears

2. Adjust backlash

3. Adjust contact

4. Replace bearing

5. Replace gears

6. Replace shaft(s)

7. Replace thrust washer(s)

Problem: Clutch slipping

Condition * Remedy *

1. Release roller out of adjustment - loss of free-play

2. Clutch springs weak

3. Clutch shoes worn

4. Pressure disc worn - distorted

5. Clutch plates (driven - drive) distorted

1. Adjust clutch bolts 1 & 2

2. Replace springs

3. Replace shoes

4. Replace disc

5. Replace plates

Problem: Clutch dragging

Condition * Remedy *

1. Clutch release roller out of adjustment - too much

free-play

2. Clutch springs weak

3. Pressure disc - clutch plates distorted

4. Clutch release mechanism worn - damaged

1. Adjust clutch bolts 1 & 2

2. Replace springs

3. Replace disc - plates

4. Adjust - replace mechanism

Problem: Transmission will not shift

Condition * Remedy *

1. Gearshift cam broken

2. Gearshift forks distorted

3. Gearshift shaft worn

4. Clutch release mechanism worn - damaged

5. Gearshift linkage adjusted improperly

1. Replace cam

2. Replace forks

3. Replace shaft

4. Adjust - replace mechanism

5. Adjust linkage

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3-7

Problem: Transmission will not shift back

Condition * Remedy *

1. Reverse shift cam broken

2. Shift shafts rubbing - sticking

3. Gearshift forks distorted - worn

4. Gearshift lever return spring broken - damaged

1. Replace cam

2. Replace shafts

3. Replace forks

4. Replace spring

Problem: Transmission jumps out of gear

Condition * Remedy *

1. Shifting gears (driveshaft - countershaft) worn

2. Gearshift forks distorted - worn

3. Cam stopper spring (gearshift cam) weak

4. Gearshift lever stopper pin worn

1. Replace gears

2. Replace forks

3. Replace spring

4. Replace pin

Problem: Secondary-transmission will not shift or shift back

Condition * Remedy *

1. Sliding dog broken - worn

2. Gearshift fork broken - worn

3. Shift lever out of adjustment

4. Gearshift cam worn

5. Cam stopper spring weak

6. Gearshift fork shaft worn

1. Replace dog

2. Replace fork

3. Adjust lever

4. Replace cam

5. Replace spring

6. Replace shaft

Problem: Engine idles poorly

Condition Remedy

1. Valve clearance out of adjustment

2. Valve seating poor

3. Valve guides defective

4. Rocker arms - arm shaft worn

5. Magneto defective

6. CDI unit/ECU defective

7. Spark plug fouled - gap too wide

8. Ignition coil defective

9. Float out of adjustment

10. Jets obstructed

11. Pilot screw setting improper

12. Fuel injector obstructed

1. Adjust clearance

2. Replace - service seats - valves

3. Replace guides

4. Replace arms - shafts

5. Replace magneto

6. Replace CDI unit/ECU

7. Adjust gap - replace plug

8. Replace ignition coil

9. Adjust float height

10. Clean jets

11. Adjust pilot screw

12. Replace fuel injector

Problem: Engine runs poorly at high speed

Condition Remedy

1. High RPM “cut out” against RPM limiter

2. Valve springs weak

3. Valve timing out of adjustment

4. Cams - rocker arms - tappets worn

5. Spark plug gap too narrow

6. Ignition coil defective

7. Float level too low

8. Air cleaner element obstructed

9. Fuel hose obstructed

10. Fuel pump defective

1. Shift into higher gear - decrease speed

2. Replace springs

3. Adjust timing

4. Replace cams - arms - tappets

5. Adjust gap

6. Replace ignition oil

7. Adjust float height

8. Clean element

9. Clean or replace hose

10. Replace fuel pump

Problem: Exhaust smoke dirty or heavy

Condition Remedy

1. Oil (in the engine) overfilled - contaminated

2. Piston rings - cylinder worn

3. Valve guides worn

4. Cylinder wall scored - scuffed

5. Valve stems worn

6. Stem seals defective

1. Drain excess oil - replace oil

2. Replace - service rings - cylinder

3. Replace guides

4. Replace - service cylinder

5. Replace valves

6. Replace seals

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3-8

Problem: Engine lacks power

Condition Remedy

1. Valve clearance incorrect

2. Valve springs weak

3. Valve timing incorrect

4. Piston ring(s) - cylinder worn

5. Valve seating poor

6. Spark plug fouled

7. Rocker arms - shafts worn

8. Spark plug gap incorrect

9. Carburetor jets/fuel injector obstructed

10. Float level out of adjustment

11. Air cleaner element obstructed

12. Oil (in the engine) overfilled - contaminated

13. Intake manifold leaking air

14. Cam chain worn

1. Adjust clearance

2. Replace springs

3. Re-time valve gear

4. Replace - service rings - cylinder

5. Repair seats

6. Clean - replace plug

7. Replace arms - shafts

8. Adjust gap - replace plug

9. Clean jets - replace injector

10. Adjust float height

11. Clean element

12. Drain excess oil - change oil

13. Tighten - replace manifold

14. Replace cam chain

Problem: Engine overheats

Condition Remedy

1. Carbon deposit (piston crown) excessive

2. Oil low

3. Octane low - gasoline poor

4. Oil pump defective

5. Oil circuit obstructed

6. Gasoline level (in float chamber) too low

7. Intake manifold leaking air

8. Coolant level low

9. Fan malfunctioning

10. Fan switch malfunctioning

11. Thermostat stuck - closed

12. Radiator hoses - cap damaged - obstructed

1. Clean piston

2. Add oil

3. Drain - replace gasoline

4. Replace pump

5. Clean circuit

6. Adjust float height

7. Tighten - replace manifold

8. Fill - examine system for leaks

9. Check fan fuse - replace fan

10. Replace fan switch

11. Replace thermostat

12. Clear obstruction - replace hoses

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3-9

Table of Contents

(400)

Removing Engine/Transmission.............................. 3-9

Top-Side Components........................................... 3-11

Removing Top-Side Components ......................... 3-11

Servicing Top-Side Components........................... 3-15

Installing Top-Side Components ........................... 3-23

Left-Side Components .......................................... 3-27

Removing Left-Side Components ......................... 3-27

Installing Left-Side Components ........................... 3-29

Right-Side Components ........................................ 3-30

Removing Right-Side Components....................... 3-30

Servicing Right-Side Components ........................ 3-34

Installing Right-Side Components......................... 3-35

Center Crankcase Components............................ 3-38

Separating Crankcase Halves............................... 3-39

Disassembling Crankcase Half ............................. 3-39

Servicing Center Crankcase Components............ 3-41

Assembling Crankcase Half .................................. 3-43

Joining Crankcase Halves..................................... 3-45

Installing Engine/Transmission.............................. 3-46

Removing Engine/

Transmission

Many service procedures can be performed without

removing the engine/transmission from the frame.

Closely observe the note introducing each sub-section

for this important information.

Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

1. Remove the front rack, left and right footwells,

and front body panel (see Section 8); then discon-

nect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2. Remove the heat shield; then remove the gas tank

(see Section 4).

3. Remove the oil fittings from the engine and

account for two O-rings; then disconnect the oil

temperature connector and cooling fan connector.

KC251

KC250

KC249

4. Disconnect the speedometer sensor; then remove

the E-clip securing the shift rod to the shift arm

and disconnect the shift rod. Account for a bush-

ing and flat washer.

 AT THIS POINT

If the technician’s objective is to service Top-Side

Components, Left-Side Components, or Right-Side

Components, the engine/transmission does not have

to be removed from the frame.

 AT THIS POINT

If the technician’s objective is to service/replace

left-side cover oil seals or the oil strainer (from

beneath the engine/transmission), the engine/trans-

mission does not have to be removed from the frame.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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3-10

KC248

KC255

5. Remove the inlet air duct, air filter housing, and

air silencer duct; then remove the carburetor and

set aside leaving the throttle cable attached.

KC235

KC236

6. Remove the cap screws securing the exhaust pipe

to the cylinder head; then disconnect the exhaust

pipe to muffler springs and remove the exhaust

pipe. Account for a grafoil seal and seal ring.

KC170

KC238

7. Disconnect the gear shift position switch, starter

cable, and engine ground cable; then disconnect

the trigger coil and stator coil connectors.

KC228A

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3-11

KC228B

8. Remove the front and rear V-belt cooling boots

from the V-belt housing.

9. Remove the cap screws from the front and rear

output flanges; then remove the front and rear

engine mounting through-bolts.

KC242

KC243

10. Lift the rear of the engine/transmission and swing

to the right; then tilt the assembly sufficiently to

remove through the right-side frame opening.

KC216

Top-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Top-Side

Components

A. Valve Cover/Rocker Arms

B. Cylinder Head/Camshaft

NOTE: Remove the spark plug, timing inspection

plug, and outer magneto cover; then using an

appropriate wrench, rotate the crankshaft to

top-dead-center of the compression stroke.

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of new

gaskets, lock nuts, and seals and lubricating all

internal components when servicing the

engine/transmission.

1. Remove the cap screws securing the two tappet

covers. Remove the two tappet covers. Account

for the O-rings.

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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3-12

MD1264

NOTE: Keep the mounting hardware with the cov-

ers for assembly purposes.

2. Remove the valve cover cap screws. Note the rub-

ber washers on the four top-side cap screws;

remove the valve cover. Note the orientation of the

cylinder head plug and remove it. Note the loca-

tion of the two alignment pins.

CF007A

MD1354A

3. Loosen the cap screw on the end of the cam chain

tensioner; then remove the two cap screws secur-

ing the cam chain tensioner assembly. Remove the

tensioner assembly and gasket.

MD1245

4. Remove the cam chain tensioner pivot cap screw

and washer.

MD1251

5. Bend the washer tabs and remove the two cap

screws securing the sprocket to the camshaft.

MD1136

MD1137

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3-13

6. Using an awl, rotate the C-ring in its groove until

it is out of the cylinder head; then remove the

C-ring.

NOTE: Care should be taken not to drop the

C-ring down into the crankcase.

MD1131

7. Noting the timing marks for installing purposes,

drop the sprocket off the camshaft. While holding

the cam chain, slide the sprocket and camshaft out

of the cylinder head. Account for an alignment

pin.

NOTE: Loop the chain over the cylinder and

secure it with a wire to keep it from falling into the

crankcase.

MD1132

8. Remove the cam chain tensioner by lifting it from

the chain cavity; then remove the two lower nuts

securing the cylinder head to the cylinder, one in

front and one in rear.

MD1192

9. Remove the four cylinder head cap screws and

washers. Note that the two cap screws on the right

side of the cylinder head nearest the cam sprocket

are longer than the two cap screws on the left

(spark plug) side.

CD211

10. Remove the cylinder head from the cylinder,

remove the gasket, and account for two alignment

pins.

MD1163

11. Remove the cam chain guide.

MD1173

 AT THIS POINT

To service valves and cylinder head, see Servicing

Top-Side Components sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To inspect cam chain guide, see Servicing Top-Side

Components sub-section.

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3-14

C. Cylinder

D. Piston

NOTE: Steps 1-11 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

12. Remove the two nuts securing the right side of the

cylinder to the right-side crankcase half.

MD1226A

13. Lift the cylinder off the crankcase taking care not

to allow the piston to drop against the crankcase.

Account for the gasket and two alignment pins.

MD1214

14. Using an awl, remove one piston-pin circlip. Take

care not to drop it into the crankcase.

MD1213

15. Using Piston Pin Puller, remove the piston pin.

Account for the opposite-side circlip. Remove the

piston.

NOTE: It is advisable to remove the opposite-side

circlip prior to using the puller.

MD1219

NOTE: Support the connecting rod with rubber

bands to avoid damaging the rod or install a con-

necting rod holder.

NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced

with new rings, note the location of each ring for

proper installation. When replacing with new rings,

replace as a complete set only. If the piston rings

must be removed, remove them in this sequence.

 AT THIS POINT

To service cylinder, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

! CAUTION

When removing the cylinder, be sure to support the

piston to prevent damage to the crankcase and piston.

! CAUTION

Do not allow the connecting rod to go down inside the

crankcase. If the rod is down inside the crankcase and

the crankshaft is rotated, severe damage will result.

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3-15

MD1211

A. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the

ring out of the ring-groove.

B. Remove each ring by working it toward the

dome of the piston while rotating it out of the

groove.

Servicing Top-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

VALVE ASSEMBLY

When servicing valve assembly, inspect valve seats,

valve stems, valve faces, and valve stem ends for pits,

burn marks, or other signs of abnormal wear.

NOTE: Whenever a valve is out of tolerance, it

must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Valve Cover

NOTE: If the valve cover cannot be trued, the cyl-

inder head assembly must be replaced.

1. Wash the valve cover in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Place the valve cover on the Surface Plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the valve cover in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indica-

tion of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a

bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the valve

cover in a figure eight motion until a uniform

bright metallic finish is attained.

CC130D

Removing Valves

NOTE: Keep all valves and valve components as

a set. Note the original location of each valve set

for use during installation. Return each valve set to

its original location during installation.

1. Using a valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and remove the valve keepers.

Account for an upper spring retainer.

CC994

2. Remove the valve seal and the lower remaining

spring seat. Discard the valve seal.

 AT THIS POINT

To service piston, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, pro-

ceed to Removing Left-Side Components.

! CAUTION

Do not remove an excessive amount of the sealing

surface or damage to the camshaft will result. Always

check camshaft clearance when resurfacing the valve

cover.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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3-16

CC134D

CC136D

NOTE: The valve seals must be replaced.

3. Remove the valve springs; then invert the cylinder

head and remove the valves.

Measuring Valve Stem Runout

1. Support each valve stem end with the V Blocks;

then check the valve stem runout using a dial indi-

cator.

ATV-1082

2. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Stem Outside

Diameter

1. Using a micrometer, measure the valve stem out-

side diameter.

2. Acceptable diameter range (intake valve) must be

within specifications.

3. Acceptable diameter range (exhaust valve) must

be within specifications.

Measuring Valve Face/Seat Width

1. Using a micrometer, measure the width of the

valve face.

ATV-1004

2. Acceptable width must be at or above specifica-

tions.

Measuring Valve Face Radial

Runout

1. Mount a dial indicator on the surface plate; then

place the valve stem on a set of V blocks.

2. Position the dial indicator contact point on the out-

side edge of the valve face; then zero the indicator.

ATV1082A

3. Rotate the valve in the V blocks.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide/Valve Stem

Deflection (Wobble Method)

1. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate; then place the cylinder head on the surface

plate.

2. Install the valve into the cylinder head; then posi-

tion the dial indicator contact point against the out-

side edge of the valve face. Zero the indicator.

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3-17

CC131D

3. Push the valve from side to side; then from top to

bottom.

4. Maximum “wobble” deflection must not exceed

specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide

(Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge 1/2 way down into each valve

guide bore; then remove the gauge and measure it

with a micrometer.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

3. If a valve guide is out of tolerance, the cylinder

head must be replaced.

Servicing Valves/Valve

Guides/Valve Seats

If valves, valve guides, or valve seats require servicing

or replacement, Arctic Cat recommends that the com-

ponents be taken to a qualified machine shop for ser-

vicing.

Measuring Rocker Arm

(Inside Diameter)

1. Using a dial calipers, measure the inside diameter

of the rocker arm.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Measuring Rocker Arm Shaft

(Outside Diameter)

1. Using a micrometer, measure the outside diameter

of the rocker arm shaft.

2. Acceptable outside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Installing Valves

1. Apply grease to the inside surface of the valve

seals; then place a lower spring seat and valve

guide seal over each valve guide.

CC144D

2. Insert each valve into its original valve location.

3. Install the valve springs with the painted end of the

spring facing away from the cylinder head.

NOTE: If the paint is not visible, install the ends

of the springs with the closest wound coils toward

the head.

ATV-1011A

4. Place a spring retainer over the valve springs; then

using the valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and install the valve keepers.

CC994

! CAUTION

If valves are discolored or pitted or if the seating sur-

face is worn, the valve must be replaced. Do not

attempt to grind the valves or severe engine damage

may occur.

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3-18

PISTON ASSEMBLY

NOTE: Whenever a piston, rings, or pin are out of

tolerance, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the top of the piston.

2. Inspect the piston for cracks in the piston pin,

boss, top, and skirt areas.

3. Inspect the piston for seizure marks or scuffing. If

piston is scored or galled, replace it with a new

one.

4. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of

“blowby” indicated by dark discoloration.

“Blowby” is caused by worn piston rings, exces-

sive carbon in ring grooves, or an out-of-round

cylinder.

Removing Piston Rings

1. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the ring

out of the ring-groove.

CC400D

2. Remove each ring by working it toward the top of

the piston while rotating it out of the groove.

NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced

with new ones, note the location of each ring for

proper installation. When installing new rings,

install as a complete set only.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston Rings

1. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;

then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle

and to a sharp edge.

2. Using the sharpened ring as a tool, clean carbon

from the ring grooves. Be sure to position the ring

with its tapered side up.

Measuring Piston-Ring End Gap

(Installed)

1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion of the

cylinder. Use the piston to position each ring

squarely in the cylinder.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring

end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within

specifications.

CC995

Measuring Piston Pin, Connecting

Rod Small End, and Piston-Pin Bore

1. Measure the piston pin outside diameter at each

end and in the center. If measurement exceeds

specifications, the piston pin must be replaced.

ATV-1070

2. Inspect and measure the connecting rod small end.

If the measurement exceeds specifications, the

connecting rod must be replaced (see Center

Crankcase Components in this section).

3. Insert an inside dial indicator into the piston-pin

bore. Take two measurements to ensure accuracy.

The diameter must not exceed specifications. If the

diameter exceeds specifications, the piston must

be replaced.

! CAUTION

Improper cleaning of the ring grooves by the use of

the wrong type of ring groove cleaner will result in

severe damage to the piston.

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3-19

ATV-1069

Measuring Piston Skirt/

Cylinder Clearance

1. Measure the cylinder front to back in six places.

CC397D

2. Measure the corresponding piston diameter at a

point 15 mm (0.6 in.) above the piston skirt at a

right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this

measurement from the measurement in step 1. The

difference (clearance) must be within specifica-

tions.

Installing Piston Rings

1. Install ring expander (4) in the bottom groove of

the piston; then install the thin oil rings (3) over

the expander making sure the expander ends do

not overlap. Stagger the end gaps of the upper and

lower thin oil rings according to the illustration.

NOTE: Note the direction of the exhaust side of

the piston (5) for correct ring end gap orientation.

ATV-1085B

2. Install the compression rings (1 and 2) so the let-

ter(s) on the top surface of each ring faces the

dome of the piston. Rotate the rings until the ring

end gaps are on directly opposite sides of the pis-

ton according to the illustration.

NOTE: The chrome (silver) ring should be

installed in the top position.

MD1343A

CYLINDER/CYLINDER HEAD

ASSEMBLY

NOTE: If the cylinder/cylinder head assembly

cannot be trued, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder Head

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the combustion chamber

being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the

combustion chamber or the sealing surface.

2. Inspect the spark plug hole for any damaged

threads. Repair damaged threads using a

“heli-coil” insert.

! CAUTION

Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in

engine damage.

! CAUTION

The cylinder head studs must be removed for this pro-

cedure.

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3-20

3. Place the cylinder head on the surface plate cov-

ered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using

light pressure, move the cylinder head in a figure

eight motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any

indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted

by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der head in a figure eight motion until a uniform

bright metallic finish is attained.

CC996

Measuring Cylinder Head

Distortion

1. Remove any carbon buildup in the combustion

chamber.

2. Lay a straightedge across the cylinder head; then

using a feeler gauge, check the distortion factor

between the head and the straightedge.

3. Maximum distortion must not exceed specifica-

tions.

CC141D

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder

1. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

warpage, and corrosion. If marks are found, repair

the surface using a cylinder hone (see Honing Cyl-

inder in this sub-section).

3. Place the cylinder on the surface plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the cylinder in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indica-

tion of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a

bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright

metallic finish is attained.

CC997

Inspecting Cam Chain Guide

1. Inspect cam chain guide for cuts, tears, breaks, or

chips.

2. If the chain guide is damaged, it must be replaced.

Honing Cylinder

1. Using a slide gauge and a dial indicator or a snap

gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter in three

locations from top to bottom and again from top to

bottom at 90° from the first measurements for a

total of six measurements. The trueness

(out-of-roundness) is the difference between the

highest and lowest reading. Maximum trueness

(out-of-roundness) must not exceed specifications.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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3-21

CC127D

2. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

3. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-

face using a #320 grit ball hone.

NOTE: To produce the proper 60° cross-hatch

pattern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate

of 30 strokes per minute. If honing oil is not avail-

able, use a lightweight petroleum-based oil. Thor-

oughly clean cylinder after honing using soap and

hot water. Dry with compressed air; then immedi-

ately apply oil to the cylinder bore. If the bore is

severely damaged or gouged, replace the cylinder.

CC390D

4. If any measurement exceeds the limit, bore the

cylinder and must be replaced.

Measuring Camshaft Runout

NOTE: If the camshaft is out of tolerance, it must

be replaced.

1. Place the camshaft on a set of V blocks; then posi-

tion the dial indicator contact point against the

shaft and zero the indicator.

CC283D

2. Rotate the camshaft and note runout; maximum

tolerance must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Camshaft Lobe Height

1. Using a calipers, measure each cam lobe height.

ATV1013A

2. The lobe heights must not exceed minimum speci-

fications.

Inspecting Camshaft Bearing

Journal

1. Inspect the bearing journal for scoring, seizure

marks, or pitting.

2. If excessive scoring, seizure marks, or pitting is

found, the cylinder head assembly must be

replaced.

Measuring Camshaft to

Cylinder Head Clearance

1. Loosen the jam nuts and adjuster screws.

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CC005D

2. Place a strip of plasti-gauge in each of the cam-

shaft lands in the cylinder head.

3. Place the valve cover on the cylinder head and

secure with the valve cover cap screws. Tighten

securely.

NOTE: Do not rotate the camshaft when measur-

ing clearance.

4. Remove the cap screws securing the valve cover to

the cylinder; then remove the valve cover and

camshaft.

MD1261

5. Match the width of the plasti-gauge with the chart

found on the plasti-gauge packaging to determine

camshaft to cylinder head and valve cover clear-

ance.

CC145D

6. If clearance is excessive, measure the journals of

the camshaft.

CC287D

NOTE: If the journals are worn, replace the cam-

shaft; then measure the clearance again. If it is still

out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.

Inspecting Camshaft Spring/Drive

1. Inspect the spring and unloader pin for damage.

CF061A

NOTE: With the weight extended, the unloader

pin should be flat-side out; with the weight

retracted, the unloader pin should be round-side

out.

CF060A

2. If damaged, the camshaft must be replaced.

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3-23

Installing Top-Side

Components

A. Piston

B. Cylinder

1. Lubricate the piston pin, connecting rod, and pis-

ton pin bore with motor oil; then install the piston

on the connecting rod making sure there is a cir-

clip on each side and the open end of the circlip is

directed upwards or downwards.

NOTE: The piston should be installed so the

arrow points towards the exhaust.

MD1213

2. Place the two alignment pins into position. Place a

new cylinder gasket into position; then place a pis-

ton holder (or suitable substitute) beneath the pis-

ton skirt and square the piston in respect to the

crankcase.

MD1344

3. Lubricate the inside wall of the cylinder; then

using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress

the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston.

Route the cam chain up through the cylinder cam

chain housing; then remove the piston holder and

seat the cylinder firmly on the crankcase.

MD1345

4. Loosely install the two nuts securing the cylinder

to the right-side crankcase half.

NOTE: The two cylinder-to-crankcase nuts will be

tightened in step 9.

MD1226A

C. Cylinder Head/Camshaft

D. Valve Cover/Rocker Arms

NOTE: Steps 1-4 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

5. While keeping tension on the cam chain, place the

front cam chain guide into the cylinder.

! CAUTION

The cylinder should slide on easily. Do not force the

cylinder or damage to the piston, rings, cylinder, or

crankshaft assembly may occur.

! CAUTION

Care should be taken that the bottom of the chain

guide is secured in the crankcase boss.

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MD1349

6. Place a new gasket into position on the cylinder.

Place the alignment pins into position; then place

the head assembly into position on the cylinder

making sure the cam chain is routed through the

chain cavity.

MD1347

MD1163

7. Install the four cylinder head cap screws with

washers. Note that the two cap screws on the right

side of the cylinder head nearest the cam sprocket

are longer than the two cap screws on the left

(spark plug) side. Tighten only until snug.

MD1270

8. Install the two lower nuts securing the cylinder

head to the cylinder, one in front and one in rear.

MD1192

9. In a crisscross pattern, tighten the four cylinder

head cap screws (from step 7) to 28 ft-lb. Tighten

the two lower cylinder head nuts (from step 8) to

20 ft-lb and the cylinder-to-crankcase nuts (from

step 4) to 8 ft-lb.

10. With the timing inspection plug removed and the

cam chain held tight, rotate the crankshaft until the

piston is at top-dead-center.

11. While holding the cam chain sprocket to the side,

install the rear cam chain tensioner guide into the

cylinder head. Install the pivot cap screw and

washer.

CD383

! CAUTION

Keep tension on the cam chain to avoid damaging the

crankcase boss.

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12. With the alignment pin installed in the camshaft

and the cam lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton), place the camshaft in position and verify that

the timing mark on the magneto is visible through

the inspection plug and that the timing marks on

the camshaft sprocket are parallel with the valve

cover mating surface.

NOTE: When the camshaft assembly is seated,

make sure the alignment pin in the camshaft aligns

with the smallest hole in the sprocket.

13. With the alignment pin installed in the camshaft,

loosely place the cam sprocket (with the recessed

side facing the camshaft lobes) onto the camshaft

and place it into position with the cam chain over

the sprocket.

MD1359

14. Place the C-ring into position in its groove in the

cylinder head.

MD1131

NOTE: At this point, oil the camshaft bearings,

cam lobes, and the three seating journals on the

cylinder head.

NOTE: Note the position of the alignment marks

on the end of the camshaft. They must be parallel

with the valve cover mating surface. If rotating the

camshaft is necessary for alignment, do not allow

the chain and sprocket to rotate and be sure the

cam lobes end up in the down position.

15. When the camshaft assembly is seated, ensure the

following.

A. Piston still at top-dead-center.

B. Camshaft lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton).

C. Camshaft alignment marks parallel to the valve

cover mating surface.

D. Recessed side of the sprocket directed toward

the cam lobes.

E. Camshaft alignment pin and sprocket alignment

hole (smallest) are aligned.

16. Place the tab washer onto the sprocket making

sure it covers the pin in the alignment hole.

MD1363

17. Apply red Loctite #271 to the first cap screw

securing the sprocket and tab washer to the cam-

shaft; then install the cap screw and tab washer.

Tighten cap screw only until snug.

CC404D

! CAUTION

If any of the above factors are not as stated, go back to

step 13 and carefully proceed.

! CAUTION

Care must be taken that the tab washer is installed

correctly to cover the alignment hole on the sprocket.

If the alignment pin falls out, severe engine damage

will result.

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MD1137

18. Rotate the crankshaft until the second cap screw

securing the sprocket to the camshaft can be

installed; then install the cap screw (threads coated

with red Loctite #271). Tighten to 11 ft-lb; then

bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

MD1137

19. Rotate the crankshaft until the first cap screw

(from step 17) securing the sprocket to the cam-

shaft can be addressed; then tighten to 11 ft-lb.

Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

20. Install the cylinder head plug with the cupped end

facing the camshaft and the opening directed

downwards.

21. Remove the cap screw from the end of the chain

tensioner. Account for the plunger, spring, and

gasket.

MD1248

22. Depress the spring-loaded lock and push the

plunger into the tensioner.

MD1146

23. Place the cam chain tensioner assembly and gasket

into the cylinder making sure the ratchet side is

facing toward the top of the cylinder and secure

with the two cap screws.

MD1254

24. Install the cap screw and spring into the end of the

cam chain tensioner. Tighten securely.

MD1245

25. Loosen the adjuster screw jam nuts; then loosen

the adjuster screws on the rocker arms in the valve

cover.

26. Apply a thin coat of Three Bond Sealant to the

mating surface of the valve cover; then place the

valve cover into position. Note that the two align-

ment pins are properly positioned.

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

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27. Install the four top-side cap screws with rubber

washers; then install the remaining cap screws.

Tighten only until snug.

MD1261

28. In a crisscross pattern starting from the center and

working outward, tighten the cap screws (from

step 27) to 8 ft-lb.

29. Adjust valve/tappet clearance (see Section 2).

30. Place the two tappet covers with O-rings into posi-

tion; then install and tighten the cap screws

securely.

MD1264

31. Install the spark plug and tighten securely; then

install the timing inspection plug.

Left-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Left-Side

Components

A. Cover/Stator Assembly

1. Remove the cap screws securing the outer mag-

neto cover and remove the cover.

2. Remove the left-side cover-to-crankcase mounting

cap screws noting the location of the 8 mm cap

screw with the washer near the middle of the

left-side cover. Keep the different-lengthed 6 mm

cap screws in order for installing purposes.

MD1186

3. Using Side Case Puller and the 6 mm adapter,

remove the left-side cover w/stator assembly.

Account for the two alignment pins and the posi-

tion of the shifter bracket for installing purposes.

CC946

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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MD1188

NOTE: Inspect the inside of the left-side cover for

any shaft washers that may have come off with the

cover. Make sure they are returned to their respec-

tive shafts and that the starter idler gear spacer is

on the shaft or in the cover.

B. Rotor/Flywheel

C. Starter Motor

NOTE: Steps 1-3 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

4. Remove the rotor/flywheel nut.

MD1194

5. Install the crankshaft protector.

MD1365

6. Using Magneto Rotor Remover Set, break the

rotor/flywheel assembly loose from the crankshaft.

Remove the remover, the crankshaft protector, the

rotor/flywheel, and the starter clutch gear. Account

for the key.

MD1368

MD1369

MD1370

7. Remove the starter idler gear (No. 1) and starter

idler gear (No. 2).

MD1305

! CAUTION

Care must be taken that the remover is fully threaded

onto the rotor/flywheel or damage may occur.

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8. Remove the gear shift shaft assembly and washer

from the left-side crankcase. Note the positions of

the alignment marks and washer for installing pur-

poses; then release the cam stopper spring tension.

MD1239

9. Remove the shift detent cam.

10. Remove the cam stopper assembly.

11. Remove two starter motor cap screws.

KC217

12. Remove starter motor by tapping lightly with a

mallet.

NOTE: The starter motor is a non-serviceable

component and must be replaced as an assembly.

13. Using an impact screwdriver, remove the three

Phillips-head screws holding the crankshaft bear-

ing retainer. Remove the crankshaft bearing

retainer.

MD1122

Installing Left-Side

Components

A. Starter Idler Gears

B. Rotor/Flywheel

1. Place the crankshaft bearing retainer into position.

Apply red Loctite #271 to the three cap screws.

Install and tighten the three cap screws securely.

MD1122

2. Install the starter motor and tighten the two cap

screws securely.

3. Install the shift detent cam making sure the washer

is installed.

MD1086

4. Install the cam stopper assembly.

5. Install the gear shift shaft assembly and washer

making sure to align the alignment marks.

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MD1239

6. Install starter idler gear (No. 2) and starter idler

gear (No. 1).

MD1305

7. Place the key into its notch; then slide the rotor/

flywheel (with the ring gear in place) over the

crankshaft. Tighten the nut to 107 ft-lb.

C. Cover

NOTE: Steps 1-7 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

8. Install two alignment pins and place the left-side

cover gasket into position. Install the left-side

cover. Noting the different-lengthed 6 mm cap

screws, the position of the shifter bracket, and the

location of the long cap screw with the washer,

tighten cap screws in a crisscross pattern to 8 ft-lb.

9. Place the outer magneto cover into position on the

left-side cover; then install and tighten the four cap

screws securely.

Right-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Right-Side

Components

A. V-Belt Cover

B. Driven Pulley

C. Clutch Cover

1. If the engine is still in the frame, remove the cap

screw securing the brake pedal to the pivot shaft.

Account for a flat washer.

KC149A

2. Remove the cap screws securing the V-belt cover

to the clutch cover; then slide the brake pedal out-

ward and remove the V-belt cover. Account for

two alignment pins and a gasket.

KC142A

 AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, pro-

ceed to Removing Right-Side Components.

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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3. Mark the movable drive face and the fixed drive

face for installing purposes; then remove the nut

holding the movable drive face onto the crankshaft.

MD1033

4. Remove the movable drive face and spacer.

Account for the movable drive face rollers and

outer drive face cover.

MD1035

MD1034

MD1036

5. Remove the V-belt.

MD1118

6. Remove the fixed drive face.

MD1094

7. Remove the nut holding the driven pulley assem-

bly; then remove the driven pulley assembly.

MD1068

8. Using an impact screwdriver, remove the three

Phillips-head cap screws holding the air intake

plate. Remove the air intake plate.

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MD1092

9. Remove the cap screws holding the clutch cover

onto the right-side crankcase half. Note the posi-

tions of the different-lengthed cap screws for

installing purposes.

10. Using a rubber mallet, loosen the clutch cover;

then pull it away from the right-side crankcase

half. Account for two alignment pins and gasket.

MD1115

D. Gear Shift Position Switch

E. Centrifugal Clutch Assembly

F. Oil Pump Drive Gear

G. Oil Pump Driven Gear

NOTE: Steps 1-10 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

11. Remove the cap screw holding the gear shift posi-

tion switch onto the right-side crankcase half.

KC324A

12. Remove the gear shift position switch. Account for

a spacer.

KC326A

13. Remove the one-way clutch noting the direction of

the green dot or the word OUTSIDE for installing

purposes.

MD1286

14. Remove the left-hand threaded nut holding the

centrifugal clutch assembly.

MD1014

! CAUTION

Care must be taken when removing the nut; it has

“left-hand” threads.

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MD1016

15. Remove the cam chain.

MD1335

16. Remove the oil pump drive gear cap screw.

MD1018

17. Remove oil pump drive gear. Account for the pin.

MD1017

18. Remove the snap ring holding the oil pump driven

gear.

MD1019

NOTE: Always use a new snap ring when install-

ing the oil pump driven gear.

19. Remove oil pump driven gear. Account for the

drive pin and thrust washer.

MD1020

H. Oil Pump/Oil Strainer

NOTE: Steps 1-19 in the preceding sub-sections

must precede this procedure.

20. Remove three Phillips-head screws holding the oil

pump and remove the oil pump. Account for two

alignment pins.

MD1060

 AT THIS POINT

To service clutch components, see Servicing

Right-Side Components sub-section.

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21. Remove the four cap screws securing the oil

strainer cap; then remove the Phillips-head screws

securing the oil strainer. Account for the O-ring.

MD1207

Servicing Right-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

INSPECTING CENTRIFUGAL

CLUTCH SHOE

1. Inspect the clutch shoe for uneven wear, chips,

cracks, or discoloration.

2. Inspect the depth of the grooves in the clutch

shoes. If any shoe is worn to the bottom of the

groove, replace the complete set.

ATV1014

INSPECTING CENTRIFUGAL

CLUTCH HOUSING

1. Inspect the clutch housing for burns, marks, scuffs,

cracks, scratches, or uneven wear.

2. If the housing is damaged in any way, the housing

must be replaced.

INSPECTING PRIMARY

ONE-WAY DRIVE

1. Place the one-way clutch onto the clutch shoe

assembly with the green dot or the word “OUT-

SIDE” directed away from the clutch shoe.

KC330

2. Place the clutch housing onto the clutch

shoe/one-way clutch.

NOTE: It will be necessary to rotate the clutch

housing counterclockwise to properly seat the

one-way clutch.

 AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, pro-

ceed to Separating Crankcase Halves.

! CAUTION

Always replace clutch shoes as a complete set or

severe imbalance could occur.

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KC331A

3. Check that the clutch shoe can only be rotated

counterclockwise in respect to the clutch housing.

If the clutch shoe locks up or turns either direction,

the one-way clutch must be replaced.

KC332A

INSPECTING OIL PUMP

1. Inspect the pump for damage.

2. It is inadvisable to remove the screw securing the

pump halves. If the oil pump is damaged, it must

be replaced.

NOTE: The oil pump is a non-serviceable compo-

nent and must be replaced as a complete assem-

bly.

DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY

NOTE: The driven pulley assembly is a non-ser-

viceable component and must be replaced as a

complete assembly.

Installing Right-Side

Components

A. Oil Strainer/Oil Pump

1. Place the oil strainer into position beneath the

crankcase. Tighten the Phillips-head screws

(coated with red Loctite #271) securely.

MD1337

2. Place the strainer cap into position on the crank-

case making sure the O-ring is properly installed

and secure with the four cap screws; then tighten

the oil drain plug to 20 ft-lb.

MD1208

3. Place two alignment pins and the oil pump into

position on the crankcase and secure with the Phil-

lips-head screws coated with blue Loctite #243.

Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

MD1060

4. Place the thrust washer and drive pin into position

on the oil pump shaft, install the oil pump driven

gear making sure the recessed side of the gear is

directed inward, and secure with a new snap ring.

NOTE: Always use a new snap ring when install-

ing the oil pump driven gear.

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MD1020

MD1019

5. Install the cam chain.

NOTE: Keep tension on the cam chain to avoid

damaging the crankcase boss.

6. Place the pin into position, install the oil pump

drive gear, and tighten the cap screw (coated with

red Loctite #271) to 63 ft-lb.

MD1017

MD1018

7. Install the clutch shoe assembly on the crankshaft;

then install the flange nut (left-hand thread)

(coated with red Loctite #271). Tighten to 147

ft-lb.

NOTE: The flat side of the flange nut should be

directed towards the clutch shoe.

8. Install the one-way clutch making sure that the

green dot or the word OUTSIDE is directed away

from the crankcase.

MD1286

9. Install gear shift position switch spacer and switch

making sure to align the drive pin with the slot in

the shift shaft.

KC325A

! CAUTION

Care must be taken when installing the flange nut; it

has “left-hand” threads.

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KC326B

B. Clutch Cover

C. Fixed Drive Face

D. Movable Drive Face

NOTE: Steps 1-9 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

10. Install two alignment pins and place the clutch

cover gasket into position. Install the clutch cover.

MD1115

11. Tighten the clutch cover cap screws to 8 ft-lb.

MD1117

12. Install the air intake plate. Apply red Loctite #271

to the threads of the three Phillips-head cap

screws; then install and tighten securely.

MD1342

13. Place the driven pulley assembly into position and

secure with the nut (threads coated with red Loc-

tite #271). Tighten to 147 ft-lb.

MD1068

KC134

14. Slide the fixed drive face assembly onto the front

shaft.

15. Spread the faces of the driven pulley by threading

a V-belt cover cap screw into the fixed driven face

and tightening until the faces open sufficiently to

allow the V-belt to drop into the pulley approxi-

mately 3/4 in.

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KC137

NOTE: The arrows on the V-belt should point in

direction of engine rotation.

16. Making sure the movable drive face rollers are in

position, pinch the V-belt together near its center

and slide the spacer and movable drive face onto

the shaft.

KC127

17. Coat the threads of the nut with red Loctite #271;

then making sure the splines of the clutch shaft

protrude through the cover plate, secure with the

nut and tighten to 147 ft-lb.

KC138

KC141

NOTE: At this point, the cap screw can be

removed from the driven pulley face.

18. Rotate the V-belt and drive/driven assemblies until

the V-belt is flush with the top of the driven pulley.

19. Install two alignment pins and place a new V-belt

cover gasket into position on the clutch cover. In a

crisscross pattern, tighten cap screws to 8 ft-lb.

KC142A

Center Crankcase

Components

NOTE: This procedure cannot be done with the

engine/transmission in the frame. Complete

Removing procedures for Top-Side, Left-Side, and

Right-Side must precede this procedure.

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

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3-39

Separating Crankcase

Halves

1. Remove the left-side and right-side cap screws

securing the crankcase halves noting the position

of the different-sized cap screws for joining pur-

poses.

MD1006

MD1012

2. Using Crankcase Separator/Crankshaft Remover

and tapping lightly with a rubber mallet, separate

the crankcase halves. Account for two alignment

pins.

CC869

NOTE: To keep the shaft/gear assemblies intact

for identification, tap the shafts toward the

left-side crankcase half when separating the

halves.

MD1313

Disassembling

Crankcase Half

1. Remove the secondary and primary driveshaft

assemblies. Account for the bearing alignment

C-ring on the bearing boss next to the driven gear.

MD1317

NOTE: Note the location of the bearing alignment

pin on the secondary output shaft.

2. Remove the reverse idler gear, spacer, and sleeve.

Account for the washer.

MD1325

3. Remove the driveshaft.

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MD1326

4. Remove the shift fork shaft and the outer shift

fork.

MD1327

5. Remove snap ring and gear from the output side of

the gear cluster. Remove the gear cluster and the

inner shift fork together. Account for snap ring,

gear, and washer.

MD1328

6. Noting the position of the slot on the end, remove

the shift cam assembly. Account for inner and

outer washers.

KC325

7. Remove the counterbalance gear. Account for the

key.

8. Remove the counterbalance shaft.

MD1024

9. Using Crankcase Separator/Crankshaft Remover,

remove the crankshaft.

MD1330

! CAUTION

Do not remove the remaining output shaft assembly

unless absolutely necessary. If the shaft is removed,

the shaft nut must be replaced with a new one and the

shaft must be re-shimmed.

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10. Remove the secondary drive gear/secondary

driven gear retaining nut. From inside the crank-

case using a rubber mallet, drive out the output

shaft assembly. Account for the output shaft, a

shim, a washer, and the nut.

Servicing Center

Crankcase Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

SECONDARY GEARS

NOTE: When checking and correcting secondary

gear backlash and tooth contact, the universal

joint must be secured to the front shaft or false

measurements will occur.

Checking Backlash

NOTE: The rear shaft and bevel gear must be

removed for this procedure. Also, always start with

the original shims on the rear shaft.

1. Place the left-side crankcase cover onto the

left-side crankcase half to prevent runout of the

secondary transmission output shaft.

2. Install the secondary driven output shaft assembly

onto the crankcase.

3. Mount the indicator tip of the dial indicator on the

secondary driven bevel gear (centered on the gear

tooth).

4. While rocking the driven bevel gear back and

forth, note the maximum backlash reading on the

gauge.

5. Acceptable backlash range is 0.05-0.33 mm

(0.002-0.013 in.).

Correcting Backlash

NOTE: If backlash measurement is within the

acceptable range, no correction is necessary.

1. If backlash measurement is less than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

new thinner shim.

2. If backlash measurement is more than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

thicker shim.

NOTE: Continue to remove, measure, and install

until backlash measurement is within tolerance.

Note the following chart.

Checking Tooth Contact

NOTE: After correcting backlash of the second-

ary driven bevel gear, it is necessary to check

tooth contact.

1. Remove the secondary driven output shaft assem-

bly from the left-side crankcase half.

2. Clean the secondary driven bevel gear teeth of old

oil and grease residue.

3. Apply a thin, even coat of a machinist-layout dye

to several teeth of the gear.

4. Install the secondary driven output shaft assembly.

5. Rotate the secondary driven bevel gear several

revolutions in both directions.

6. Examine the tooth contact pattern in the dye and

compare the pattern to the illustrations.

ATV-0103

ATV-0105

 AT THIS POINT

To service crankshaft assembly, see Servicing Center

Crankcase Components sub-section.

Backlash Measurement Shim Correction

Under 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) Decrease Shim

Thickness

At 0.05-0.33 mm

(0.002-0.013 in.)

No Correction Required

Over 0.33 mm (0.013 in.) Increase Shim

Thickness

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ATV-0104

Correcting Tooth Contact

NOTE: If tooth contact pattern is comparable to

the correct pattern illustration, no correction is

necessary.

If tooth contact pattern is comparable to an incorrect

pattern, correct tooth contact according to the follow-

ing chart.

NOTE: To correct tooth contact, steps 1 and 2

(with NOTE) of “Correcting Backlash” must be fol-

lowed and the above “Tooth Contact/Shim Correc-

tion” chart must be consulted.

CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge into the upper connecting rod

small end bore; then remove the gauge and mea-

sure it with micrometer.

CC290D

2. Maximum diameter must not exceed specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Deflection)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V-blocks and

mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against

the center of the connecting rod small end journal.

2. Zero the indicator and push the small end of the

connecting rod away from the dial indicator.

3. Maximum deflection must not exceed specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Side-to-Side)

1. Push the lower end of the connecting rod to one

side of the crankshaft journal.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the

connecting rod and crankshaft journal.

CC289D

3. Acceptable gap range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Width)

1. Using a calipers, measure the width of the

connecting rod at the big-end bearing.

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Crankshaft (Runout)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact at point 1 of

the crankshaft.

Tooth Contact Shim Correction

Contacts at Top Decrease Shim Thickness

Contacts at Root Increase Shim Thickness

! CAUTION

After correcting tooth contact, backlash must again be

checked and corrected (if necessary). Continue the

correcting backlash/correcting tooth contact proce-

dures until they are both within tolerance values.

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ATV-1074

3. Zero the indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

NOTE: Proceed to check runout on the other end

of the crankshaft by positioning the indicator con-

tact at point 2 and following steps 3-4.

Measuring Crankshaft

(Web-to-Web)

1. Using a calipers, measure the distance from the

outside edge of one web to the outside edge of the

other web.

ATV-1017

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

COUNTERSHAFT

Disassembling

1. Remove the reverse driven gear dog; then remove

the circlip securing the reverse driven gear.

2. Remove the reverse driven gear and account for

the washer, bushing, and bearing.

3. Remove the low driven gear washer; then remove

the low driven gear. Account for the bushing and

bearing.

4. Remove the washer; then remove the circlip secur-

ing the sliding dog. Remove the sliding dog.

5. Remove the high driven gear circlip; then remove

the high driven gear. Account for the washer,

bushing, and bearing.

Assembling

1. Place the high driven gear onto the countershaft

making sure the bearing, bushing, and washer are

properly positioned. Secure with the circlip.

2. Place the sliding dog onto the countershaft; then

secure with the circlip. Place the washer next to

the circlip.

3. Place the low driven gear onto the countershaft

making sure the bearing and bushing are properly

positioned; then place the washer onto the shaft.

4. Place the reverse driven gear onto the countershaft

making sure the bearing, bushing, and washer are

properly positioned; then secure with the circlip.

5. Place the reverse driven gear dog onto the counter-

shaft.

NOTE: The countershaft is now completely

assembled for installation.

Assembling Crankcase

Half

NOTE: For ease of assembly, install components

on the right-side crankcase half.

NOTE: If the output shaft was removed, make

sure that the proper shim is installed.

1. Install the output shaft into the crankcase making

sure the two gears, shim, washer, and nut are in the

correct order.

! CAUTION

Care should be taken to support the connecting rod

when rotating the crankshaft.

! CAUTION

When disassembling the countershaft, care must be

taken to note the direction each major component

(dog, gear) faces. If a major component is installed

facing the wrong direction, transmission damage may

occur and/or the transmission will malfunction. In

either case, complete disassembly and assembly will

be required.

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MD1199

MD1079

2. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the output

shaft. Install and tighten the nut 59 ft-lb. Using a

punch, peen the nut.

MD1333

3. Apply a liberal amount of oil to the crankshaft

bearing. Using a propane torch, heat the bearing

until the oil begins to smoke; then slide the crank-

shaft assembly into place.

MD1334

NOTE: If heating the bearing is not possible, the

crankshaft can be installed using a crankshaft

installer.

4. Rotate the crankshaft so the counterweight is

toward the rear of the engine. Install the counter-

balance shaft.

MD1024

5. Keeping the counterbalance gear timing mark

aligned with the one on the crankshaft gear, install

the key and the counterbalance gear.

CD826A

6. Keeping the slot directed as shown, install the shift

cam and inner and outer washers.

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KC325

7. Align the inner shift fork with the gear cluster and

with the inner washer in place, install the gear

cluster and inner shift fork. While holding the gear

cluster in place, install the washer, gear, and snap

ring.

MD1032

MD1198

8. Install the outer shift fork and the shift fork shaft.

MD1327

9. Install the input driveshaft.

MD1326

10. Install the washer, spacer, sleeve, and reverse idler

gear.

MD1357

11. Install the secondary and primary driveshaft

assemblies. Account for the bearing alignment

C-ring on the bearing boss next to the driven gear.

NOTE: Align the bearing alignment pin on the

secondary output shaft.

Joining Crankcase

Halves

1. Verify that the two alignment pins are in place and

that both case halves are clean and grease free.

Apply Three Bond Sealant to the mating surfaces.

Place the right-side half onto the left-side half.

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MD1336

2. Using a plastic mallet, lightly tap the case halves

together until cap screws can be installed.

3. From the right side, install the crankcase cap

screws noting the location of the different-sized

cap screws; then tighten only until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs while tightening the

cap screws.

MD1008

4. From the left side, install the remaining crankcase

cap screws; then tighten only until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs while tightening the

cap screws.

CC871

5. In a crisscross/case-to-case pattern, tighten the 8

mm cap screws until the halves are correctly

joined; then tighten to 21 ft-lb.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

6. In a crisscross/case-to-case pattern, tighten the 6

mm cap screws to 10 ft-lb.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

Installing

Engine/Transmission

1. From the right side, place the engine/transmission

into the frame tilting the top-side forward to clear

the frame member.

KC216

2. Install the front and rear engine mounting

through-bolts and secure with the flange nuts.

Tighten to 38 ft-lb.

3. Align the front and rear output flanges with the

drive couplers; then secure with the screws and

tighten to 20 ft-lb.

KC242

 AT THIS POINT

After completing center crankcase components, pro-

ceed to Installing Right-Side Components, to Install-

ing Left-Side Components, and to Installing Top-Side

Components.

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KC243

4. Install the front and rear V-belt cooling boots and

secure with the existing hardware.

KC235

KC236

5. Connect the stator coil, trigger coil, and gear shift

position switch connectors; then attach the engine

ground cable and starter cable and secure with cap

screws and nuts. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

KC228A

KC228B

6. Set the inlet air silencer into the frame; then install

the exhaust pipe using a new exhaust pipe seal and

grafoil seal. Tighten the cap screws evenly to 20

ft-lb and install the muffler retainer springs.

KC237

KC238

KC170

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7. Place the carburetor into the intake pipe being

careful to align the lug on the carburetor with the

alignment tabs on the air intake pipe; then tighten

the clamp securely.

KC245A

8. Install the air filter housing onto the frame; then

connect the inlet air duct, air silencer duct, and

intake housing to carburetor boot and tighten all

hose clamps securely.

KC254

9. Install the shift rod onto the shift arm with bushing

and flat washer and secure with an E-clip; then

connect the speedometer sensor plug.

KC255

KC248

10. Connect the oil temperature connector and cooling

fan connector; then using new O-rings, install the

oil fittings onto the crankcase and secure with the

cap screws. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

KC249

KC250

KC251

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11. If the brake pedal was removed during disassem-

bling, apply grease to the brake pedal pivot stud;

then install the brake pedal and secure with a flat

washer and cap screw. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

KC232A

KC149A

12. Install the heat shield; then install the gas tank (see

Section 4).

13. Install the front body panel, front rack, and foot-

wells (see Section 8).

14. Pour the appropriate quantity and grade oil into the

crankcase; then connect the negative battery cable

and move the ATV outside to a well ventilated

area.

15. Start the engine and allow the engine to warm up

while checking for oil leaks; then shut the engine

off and check the oil level. Add oil as required.

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3-50

Table of Contents

(500 - Automatic Transmission/

H1 Models)

Removing Engine/Transmission............................ 3-50

Top-Side Components........................................... 3-54

Removing Top-Side Components ......................... 3-54

Servicing Top-Side Components........................... 3-58

Installing Top-Side Components ........................... 3-66

Left-Side Components .......................................... 3-70

Removing Left-Side Components ......................... 3-71

Servicing Left-Side Components .......................... 3-73

Installing Left-Side Components ........................... 3-75

Right-Side Components ........................................ 3-78

Removing Right-Side Components....................... 3-79

Servicing Right-Side Components ........................ 3-82

Installing Right-Side Components......................... 3-86

Center Crankcase Components............................ 3-90

Separating Crankcase Halves............................... 3-90

Disassembling Crankcase Half ............................. 3-90

Servicing Center Crankcase Components............ 3-92

Assembling Crankcase Half .................................. 3-97

Joining Crankcase Halves..................................... 3-98

Installing Engine/Transmission.............................. 3-99

Removing Engine/

Transmission

Many service procedures can be performed without

removing the engine/transmission from the frame.

Closely observe the note introducing each sub-section

for this important information.

Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the negative cable from the battery; then

remove the positive cable. Remove the battery and

the battery vent hose; then remove the battery.

3. Remove the radiator access cover, steering post

cover, and storage compartment cover assembly;

then remove the storage compartment box.

4. Remove the side panels.

CF242A

5. Remove the instrument pod; then remove the front

rack and front body panel (see Section 8).

6. Drain the oil from beneath the engine/transmis-

sion; then drain the coolant.

733-441A

CD799A

7. Remove the air filter (see Section 2).

 AT THIS POINT

If the technician’s objective is to service Top-Side

Components, Left-Side Components, or Right-Side

Components, the engine/transmission does not have

to be removed from the frame.

 AT THIS POINT

If the technician’s objective is to service/replace

left-side cover oil seals, front output joint oil seal, rear

output joint oil seal, and/or the oil strainer (from

beneath the engine/transmission), the engine/trans-

mission does not have to be removed from the frame.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

! CAUTION

Battery acid is harmful if it contacts eyes, skin, or

clothing. Care must be taken whenever handling a bat-

tery.

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3-51

8. Remove the vacuum hose and the fuel-pump-

to-carburetor hose (500) or gasline hose connector

from the fuel rail (H1 models).

CD766C

FI092D

9. Loosen the clamp securing the air intake duct to

the air filter housing.

CD785

10. Disconnect the crankcase vent hose from the air

filter housing. Remove the clamp securing the car-

buretor intake duct to the air filter housing; then

remove the air filter housing.

CD787

CD786

11. Remove the clamp securing the cooling duct boot

to the V-belt housing; then remove the cooling

duct boot from the V-belt housing outlet.

CD793

CD515A

12. Remove the left-side foot peg and footwell (see

Section 8).

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13. Secure the carburetor/throttle body assembly up

and away from the engine.

14. Remove the E-clip securing the shift rod to the

engine shift arm; then allow the shift rod to swing

forward and hang straight down from the shift

lever.

CD774

15. Remove the springs securing the muffler to the

exhaust pipe; then remove the muffler. Account

for the two exhaust springs.

CF138A

16. Remove the two cap screws securing the exhaust

pipe to the cylinder head; then remove the pipe.

CD803

17. Remove the two coolant hoses from the engine;

then route the hoses out of the way.

18. Remove the cap screws securing the rear drive-

shaft/output flange to the rear output joint flange.

CD805

NOTE: It is advisable to lock the brake when

loosening the cap screws securing the rear drive-

shaft.

19. Remove the positive cable from the starter motor

and route it out of the way.

CD796

20. Disconnect the speed sensor connector from the

sensor housing.

CD794

21. On the right-side, disconnect the gear shift posi-

tion switch (A), stator connector (B), and the CDI

connector (C).

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CD797A

22. Disconnect the temperature sensor lead from the

wiring harness.

CD788

23. Remove the spark plug wire from the spark plug;

then remove the coil from the frame.

CD814

24. Remove the cap screw securing the engine ground

wire to the engine.

KC201A

25. Remove the engine mounting through-bolts.

Account for all mounting hardware.

CD809

26. Raise the rear of the engine enough to allow the

rear output flange to clear the output flange joint.

Block the engine up in this position.

CD811

27. Remove the first small boot clamp; then remove

the output flange and driveshaft from the rear

drive coupler.

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CD812A

CD813

28. Remove the block from under the engine and

lower the engine; then remove the boot clamp

from the front output drive yoke.

29. Move the engine to the rear enough to allow the

front driveshaft to clear the front output yoke; then

move the engine forward and to the left. The

engine will come out the left side of the frame.

CD818

CD773

Top-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Top-Side

Components

A. Valve Cover/Rocker Arms

B. Cylinder Head/Camshaft

NOTE: Remove the spark plug and timing inspec-

tion plug; then using the recoil starter, rotate the

crankshaft to top-dead-center of the compression

stroke.

1. Remove the two tappet covers.

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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CC001D

NOTE: Keep the mounting hardware with the cov-

ers for assembly purposes or thread them back

into the head to keep them separated.

2. Remove the 12 cap screws securing the valve

cover to the head; account for the four rubber

washers on the top side cap screws. Remove the

valve cover. Account for and note the orientation

of the cylinder head plug. Note the location of two

alignment pins.

CD205

CD206

CD211A

3. Loosen the cap screw on the end of the tensioner;

then remove the two cap screws securing the ten-

sioner adjuster assembly and remove the assem-

bly. Account for a gasket.

CC009D

4. Using an awl, rotate the C-ring in its groove until

it is out of the cylinder head; then remove the

C-ring.

NOTE: Care should be taken not to drop the

C-ring down into the crankcase.

CC012D

5. Bend the washer tabs down and remove the two

cap screws securing the sprocket to the camshaft;

then drop the sprocket off the camshaft.

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CC013D

6. Remove the cap screw securing the chain ten-

sioner (account for a washer); then remove the ten-

sioner.

CC014D

7. While holding the chain, slide the sprocket and

camshaft out of the cylinder head.

CC266D

NOTE: Loop the chain over the cylinder and

secure it to keep it from falling into the crankcase.

8. Remove the five nuts securing the cylinder head to

the cylinder; then remove the four cylinder head

cap screws (500).

NOTE: On the 500, the cylinder head cap screws

are different lengths.

CC017D

CC018D

CC016D

9. Remove the cylinder head from the cylinder,

remove the gasket, and account for two alignment

pins; then remove the cam chain guide.

CC020D

 AT THIS POINT

To service valves and cylinder head, see Servicing

Top-Side Components sub-section.

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CC022D

C. Cylinder

D. Piston

NOTE: Steps 1-9 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

10. Loosen the clamp securing the coolant hose to the

union; then detach the hose.

11. Remove the two nuts securing the cylinder to the

crankcase.

CC023D

12. Lift the cylinder off the crankcase taking care not

to allow the piston to drop against the crankcase.

Account for the gasket and two alignment pins.

CC024D

CC025D

CC026D

13. Using an awl, remove one piston-pin circlip.

CC032D

14. Using the Piston Pin Puller, remove the piston pin.

Account for the opposite-side circlip. Remove the

piston.

NOTE: It is advisable to remove the opposite-side

circlip prior to using the puller.

 AT THIS POINT

To inspect cam chain guide, see Servicing Top-Side

Components sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To service cylinder, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

! CAUTION

When removing the cylinder, be sure to support the

piston to prevent damage to the crankcase and piston.

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CC033D

NOTE: Support the connecting rod with rubber

bands to avoid damaging the rod or install the

Connecting Rod Holder.

NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced

with new rings, note the location of each ring for

proper installation. When replacing with new rings,

replace as a complete set only. If the piston rings

must be removed, remove them in this sequence.

A. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the

ring out of the ring-groove.

B. Remove each ring by working it toward the

dome of the piston while rotating it out of the

groove.

Servicing Top-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

VALVE ASSEMBLY

When servicing valve assembly, inspect valve seats,

valve stems, valve faces, and valve stem ends for pits,

burn marks, or other signs of abnormal wear.

NOTE: Whenever a valve is out of tolerance, it

must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Valve Cover

NOTE: If the valve cover cannot be trued, the cyl-

inder head assembly must be replaced.

1. Wash the valve cover in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Place the valve cover on the Surface Plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the valve cover in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indica-

tion of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a

bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the valve

cover in a figure eight motion until a uniform

bright metallic finish is attained.

CC130D

Removing Valves

NOTE: Keep all valves and valve components as

a set. Note the original location of each valve set

for use during installation. Return each valve set

to its original location during installation.

1. Using a valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and remove the valve cotters.

Account for an upper spring retainer.

! CAUTION

Do not allow the connecting rod to go down inside the

crankcase. If the rod is down inside the crankcase and

the crankshaft is rotated, severe damage will result.

 AT THIS POINT

To service piston, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, pro-

ceed to Removing Left-Side Components.

! CAUTION

Do not remove an excessive amount of the sealing

surface or damage to the camshaft will result. Always

check camshaft clearance when resurfacing the valve

cover.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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3-59

CC132D

2. Remove the valve seal and the lower remaining

spring seat. Discard the valve seal.

CC136D

NOTE: The valve seals must be replaced.

3. Remove the valve springs; then invert the cylinder

head and remove the valves.

Measuring Valve Stem Runout

1. Support each valve stem end with the V Blocks;

then check the valve stem runout using a dial indi-

cator.

ATV-1082

2. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Stem

Outside Diameter

1. Using a micrometer, measure the valve stem out-

side diameter.

2. Acceptable diameter range (intake valve) must be

within specifications.

3. Acceptable diameter range (exhaust valve) must

be within specifications.

Measuring Valve Face/Seat Width

1. Using a micrometer, measure the width of the

valve face.

ATV-1004

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Valve Face Radial

Runout

1. Mount a dial indicator on the surface plate; then

place the valve stem on a set of V blocks.

2. Position the dial indicator contact point on the out-

side edge of the valve face; then zero the indicator.

ATV1082A

3. Rotate the valve in the V blocks.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide/Valve Stem

Deflection (Wobble Method)

1. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate; then place the cylinder head on the surface

plate.

2. Install the valve into the cylinder head; then posi-

tion the dial indicator contact point against the out-

side edge of the valve face. Zero the indicator.

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3-60

CC131D

3. Push the valve from side to side; then from top to

bottom.

4. Maximum “wobble” deflection must not exceed

specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide

(Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge 1/2 way down into each valve

guide bore; then remove the gauge and measure it

with a micrometer.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

3. If a valve guide is out of tolerance, it must be

replaced.

Servicing Valves/Valve

Guides/Valve Seats

If valves, valve guides, or valve seats require servicing

or replacement, Arctic Cat recommends that the com-

ponents be taken to a qualified machine shop for ser-

vicing.

Measuring Rocker Arm

(Inside Diameter)

1. Using a dial calipers, measure the inside diameter

of the rocker arm.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Measuring Rocker Arm Shaft

(Outside Diameter)

1. Using a micrometer, measure the outside diameter

of the rocker arm shaft.

2. Acceptable outside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Installing Valves

1. Apply grease to the inside surface of the valve

seals; then place a lower spring seat and valve

guide seal over each valve guide.

CC144D

2. Insert each valve into its original location.

3. Install the valve springs with the painted end of the

spring facing away from the cylinder head.

NOTE: If the paint is not visible, install the ends

of the springs with the closest wound coils toward

the head.

ATV-1011A

4. Place a spring retainer over the valve springs; then

using the valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and install the valve cotters.

CC132D

! CAUTION

If valves are discolored or pitted or if the seating sur-

face is worn, the valve must be replaced. Do not

attempt to grind the valves or severe engine damage

may occur.

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3-61

PISTON ASSEMBLY

NOTE: Whenever a piston, rings, or pin are out of

tolerance, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the dome of the piston.

2. Inspect the piston for cracks in the piston pin,

dome, and skirt areas.

3. Inspect the piston for seizure marks or scuffing.

Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and

water or honing oil.

NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep

to correct with the sandpaper, replace the piston.

4. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of

excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates

worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.

Removing Piston Rings

1. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the ring

out of the ring-groove.

CC400D

2. Remove each ring by working it toward the dome

of the piston while rotating it out of the groove.

NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced

with new ones, note the location of each ring for

proper installation. When installing new rings,

install as a complete set only.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston Rings

1. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;

then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle

and to a sharp edge.

2. Using the sharpened ring as a tool, clean carbon

from the ring-grooves. Be sure to position the ring

with its tapered side up.

Measuring Piston-Ring End Gap

(Installed)

1. Place each compression ring in the wear portion of

the cylinder. Use the piston to position each ring

squarely in the cylinder.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring

end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within

specifications.

CC280D

Measuring Piston Pin (Outside

Diameter) and Piston-Pin Bore

1. Measure the piston pin outside diameter at each

end and in the center. If measurement is not within

specifications, the piston pin must be replaced.

ATV-1070

2. Insert an inside dial indicator into the piston-pin

bore. The diameter must not exceed specifications.

Take two measurements to ensure accuracy.

! CAUTION

Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of

the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in

severe damage to the piston.

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3-62

ATV-1069

Measuring Piston Skirt/

Cylinder Clearance

1. Measure the cylinder front to back in six places.

CC127D

2. Measure the corresponding piston diameter at the

recommended point above the piston skirt at a

right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this

measurement from the measurement in step 1. The

difference (clearance) must be within specifica-

tions.

Installing Piston Rings

1. Install ring expander (4) in the bottom groove of

the piston; then install the thin oil rings (3) over

the expander making sure the expander ends do

not overlap. Stagger the end gaps of the upper and

lower thin oil rings according to the illustration.

ATV-1085B

NOTE: Note the direction of the exhaust side of

the piston (5) for correct ring end gap orientation.

2. On the 500, install the compression rings (1 and 2)

so the letter on the top surface of each ring faces

the dome of the piston. Rotate the rings until the

ring end gaps are on directly opposite sides of the

piston (see illustration).

NOTE: The chrome (silver) ring should be

installed in the top position.

726-306A

3. On the H1 models, the ring with the orientation

mark (MTOP or TOP) should be installed in the

second (middle) groove and the ring with the ori-

entation mark (M or O) should be installed in the

first (top) groove.

ATV-1024A

ATV-1024B

! CAUTION

Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in

engine damage.

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3-63

CYLINDER/CYLINDER HEAD

ASSEMBLY

NOTE: If the cylinder/cylinder head assembly

cannot be trued, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder Head

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the combustion chamber

being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the

combustion chamber or the sealing surface.

2. Inspect the spark plug hole for any damaged

threads. Repair damaged threads using a

“heli-coil” insert.

3. Place the cylinder head on the surface plate cov-

ered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using

light pressure, move the cylinder head in a figure

eight motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any

indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted

by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der head in a figure eight motion until a uniform

bright metallic finish is attained.

CC128D

Measuring Cylinder Head

Distortion

1. Remove any carbon buildup in the combustion

chamber.

2. Lay a straightedge across the cylinder head; then

using a feeler gauge, check the distortion factor

between the head and the straightedge.

3. Maximum distortion must not exceed specifica-

tions.

CC141D

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder

1. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

warpage, and corrosion. If marks are found, repair

the surface using a cylinder hone (see Inspecting

Cylinder in this sub-section).

3. Place the cylinder on the surface plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the cylinder in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indica-

tion of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a

bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright

metallic finish is attained.

CC129D

Inspecting Cam Chain Guide

1. Inspect cam chain guide for cuts, tears, breaks, or

chips.

2. If the chain guide is damaged, it must be replaced.

! CAUTION

The cylinder head studs must be removed for this pro-

cedure.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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Inspecting Cylinder

1. Using a slide gauge and a dial indicator or a snap

gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter in three

locations from top to bottom and again from top to

bottom at 90° from the first measurements for a

total of six measurements. The trueness

(out-of-roundness) is the difference between the

highest and lowest reading. Maximum trueness

(out-of-roundness) must not exceed specifications.

CC127D

2. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

3. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-

face using a #320 grit ball hone.

NOTE: To produce the proper 60° cross-hatch

pattern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate

of 30 strokes per minute. If honing oil is not avail-

able, use a lightweight petroleum-based oil. Thor-

oughly clean cylinder after honing using soap and

hot water. Dry with compressed air; then immedi-

ately apply oil to the cylinder bore. If the bore is

severely damaged or gouged, replace the cylinder.

CC390D

4. If any measurement exceeds the limit, replace the

cylinder and piston.

Measuring Camshaft Runout

NOTE: If the camshaft is out of tolerance, it must

be replaced.

1. Place the camshaft on a set of V blocks; then posi-

tion the dial indicator contact point against the

shaft and zero the indicator.

CC283D

2. Rotate the camshaft and note runout; maximum

tolerance must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Camshaft Lobe Height

1. Using a calipers, measure each cam lobe height.

ATV1013A

2. The lobe heights must not exceed minimum speci-

fications.

Inspecting Camshaft Bearing

Journal

1. Inspect the bearing journal for scoring, seizure

marks, or pitting.

2. If excessive scoring, seizure marks, or pitting is

found, the cylinder head assembly must be

replaced.

Measuring Camshaft to

Cylinder Head Clearance

1. Remove the adjuster screws and jam nuts.

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CC005D

2. Place a strip of plasti-gauge in each of the cam-

shaft lands in the cylinder head.

3. Place the valve cover on the cylinder head and

secure with the valve cover cap screws. Tighten

securely.

NOTE: Do not rotate the camshaft when measur-

ing clearance.

4. Remove the cap screws securing the valve cover to

the cylinder; then remove the valve cover and

camshaft.

CC003D

5. Match the width of the plasti-gauge with the chart

found on the plasti-gauge packaging to determine

camshaft to cylinder head and valve cover clear-

ance.

CC145D

6. If clearance is excessive, measure the journals of

the camshaft.

CC287D

NOTE: If the journals are worn, replace the cam-

shaft; then measure the clearance again. If it is still

out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.

Inspecting Camshaft Spring/Drive

1. Inspect the spring and drive pin for damage.

CF061A

CF060A

2. If damaged, the camshaft must be replaced.

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3-66

Installing Top-Side

Components

A. Piston

B. Cylinder

1. Install the piston on the connecting rod making

sure there is a circlip on each side and the open

end of the circlip faces upwards.

NOTE: The piston should be installed so the

arrow points toward the exhaust.

CC032D

2. Place the two alignment pins into position. Place

the cylinder gasket into position; then place a pis-

ton holder (or suitable substitute) beneath the pis-

ton skirt and square the piston in respect to the

crankcase.

CC025D

3. Lubricate the inside wall of the cylinder; then

using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress

the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston.

Route the cam chain up through the cylinder cam

chain housing; then remove the piston holder and

seat the cylinder firmly on the crankcase.

CC024D

4. Loosely install the two nuts which secure the cyl-

inder to the crankcase.

NOTE: The two cylinder-to-crankcase nuts will be

tightened in step 10.

CC023D

5. Install the coolant hose onto the crankcase union

and tighten the clamp.

C. Cylinder Head

D. Valve Cover

NOTE: Steps 1-5 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

6. Place the chain guide into the cylinder.

CC022D

! CAUTION

The cylinder should slide on easily. Do not force the

cylinder or damage to the piston, rings, cylinder, or

crankshaft assembly may occur.

! CAUTION

Care should be taken that the bottom of the chain

guide is secured in the crankcase boss.

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7. Place a new head gasket into position on the cylin-

der. Place the alignment pins into position; then

place the head assembly into position on the cylin-

der.

CC020D

CF057A

8. Install the four cylinder head cap screws (on the

500, note the locations of the different-lengthed

cap screws and install with copper washers).

Tighten only until snug.

CC272D

9. Loosely install the five cylinder head nuts.

10. In a crisscross pattern, tighten the four cylinder

head cap screws (from step 8) to 28 ft-lb (500) or

to 40 ft-lb (H1 models); then tighten the 8 mm nut

(from step 9) to 18 ft-lb. Using a crisscross pattern,

tighten the 6 mm nuts (from step 9) to 8 ft-lb.

Tighten the two cylinder-to-crankcase nuts (from

step 4) securely.

11. With the timing inspection plug removed and the

chain held tight, rotate the crankshaft until the pis-

ton is at top-dead-center.

12. With the alignment pin installed in the camshaft,

loosely place the cam sprocket (with the recessed

side facing the cam shaft lobes) onto the camshaft.

At this point, do not “seat” the sprocket onto the

shaft.

732-307B

NOTE: At this point, oil the camshaft journals,

cam lobes, and the three seating surfaces on the

cylinder.

13. While holding the cam chain sprocket to the side,

install the rear cam chain tensioner guide into the

cylinder head. Install the pivot cap screw and

washer.

CD461

14. With the cam lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton), maneuver the camshaft/sprocket assembly

through the chain and towards its seating position;

then loop the chain over the sprocket.

NOTE: Note the position of the alignment marks

on the end of the camshaft. They must be parallel

with the valve cover mating surface. If rotating the

camshaft is necessary for alignment, do not allow

the chain and sprocket to rotate and be sure the

cam lobes end up in the down position.

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CD463

15. Seat the cam sprocket onto the camshaft making

sure the alignment pin in the camshaft aligns with

the smallest hole in the sprocket; then place the

camshaft/sprocket assembly onto the cylinder

ensuring the following.

CF013A

A. Piston still at top-dead-center.

B. Camshaft lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton).

C. Camshaft alignment marks parallel to the valve

cover mating surface.

D. Recessed side of the sprocket directed toward

the cam lobes.

E. Camshaft alignment pin and sprocket alignment

hole (smallest) are aligned.

16. Place the tab-washer onto the sprocket making

sure it covers the pin in the alignment hole.

ATV1027

17. Install the first cap screw (threads coated with red

Loctite #271) securing the sprocket and

tab-washer to the camshaft. Tighten only until

snug.

CD464

18. Rotate the crankshaft until the second cap screw

securing the sprocket to the camshaft can be

installed; then install the cap screw (threads coated

with red Loctite #271) and tighten to 10 ft-lb.

Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

CD465

19. Rotate the crankshaft until the first cap screw

(from step 17) can be addressed; then tighten to 10

ft-lb. Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

! CAUTION

If any of the above factors are not as stated, go back to

step 11 and carefully proceed.

! CAUTION

Care must be taken that the tab-washer is installed

correctly to cover the alignment hole on the sprocket.

If the alignment pin falls out, severe engine damage

will result.

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3-69

CD466

20. Place the C-ring into position in its groove in the

cylinder head.

CC012D

21. Install the cylinder head plug in the cylinder head

with the open end facing downward and toward

the inside.

CD468

22. Remove the cap screw from the end of the chain

tensioner; then using a flat-blade screwdriver,

rotate the adjuster screw inside the tensioner

clockwise until the screw bottoms.

CD501

NOTE: The adjuster shaft will be drawn into the

tensioner as the adjuster screw is rotated clock-

wise. The adjuster shaft tension will be released in

step 24.

23. Place the chain tensioner adjuster assembly and

gasket into position on the cylinder and secure

with the two cap screws.

CD469

24. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, rotate the adjuster

screw inside the tensioner counterclockwise until

all tension is released; then install the cap screw

into the end of the chain tensioner.

CD470

! CAUTION

The open end of the plug must be positioned down-

ward.

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CD471

25. Loosen the four adjuster screw jam nuts; then

loosen the four adjuster screws on the rocker arms

in the valve cover.

CC005D

26. Apply a thin coat of Three Bond Sealant to the

mating surfaces of the cylinder head and valve

cover.

CC275D

27. Place the valve cover into position.

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

28. Install the four top side cap screws with rubber

washers; then install the remaining cap screws.

Tighten only until snug.

CC003D

29. In a crisscross pattern starting from the center and

working outward, tighten the cap screws (from

step 28) to 7 ft-lb (500) or 8.5 ft-lb (H1 models).

30. Adjust valve/tappet clearance (see Section 2).

31. Place the two tappet covers into position making

sure the proper cap screws are with the proper

cover. Tighten the cap screws securely.

CC001D

32. If removed, install the spark plug. Tighten

securely.

Left-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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3-71

Removing Left-Side

Components

A. Recoil Starter/Outer Magneto

Cover

B. Water Pump

C. Cover

D. Rotor/Flywheel

NOTE: The H1 models are not equipped with a

recoil starter.

1. Remove the four cap screws securing the recoil

starter/outer magneto cover to the left-side cover;

then remove the recoil starter/outer magneto

cover. Account for the gasket.

2. Remove the flange nut securing the starter

cup/spacer to the crankshaft; then remove the

starter cup/spacer. Account for the O-ring inside

the cup.

CD925A

3. Using a cold chisel, scribe a mark showing the rel-

ative position of the shift arm to the shift arm shaft

to aid in installing; then remove the shift arm.

FI085A

4. Remove the two cap screws securing the speed

sensor housing; then remove the housing. Account

for the gasket and two seal washers.

CD920A

5. Loosen the clamps securing the coolant hose to the

water pump; then remove the crossover tube from

the cylinder head. Account for an O-ring.

CD214

6. Remove the two cap screws securing the water

pump to the engine; then remove the water pump.

7. Remove the cap screws securing the left-side

cover to the crankcase noting the location of the

different-sized cap screws for installing purposes.

8. Using Side Case Puller, remove the side cover.

Account for a gasket and two alignment pins.

NOTE: Inspect the inside of the left-side cover for

any shaft washers that may have come off with the

cover. Make sure they are returned to their respec-

tive shafts and that the starter idler gear spacer is

on the shaft or in the cover.

 AT THIS POINT

To service the recoil starter, see Servicing Left-Side

Components sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To service the water pump, see Section 4.

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3-72

CF075A

9. Remove the nut securing the magneto rotor to the

crankshaft; then install the magneto rotor puller

adapter.

NOTE: The puller has left-hand threads.

10. Using Magneto Rotor Remover Set, remove the

rotor/flywheel assembly from the crankshaft.

Account for the key; then remove the starter clutch

gear assembly and washer.

CD939A

CD940A

11. Remove the two starter gears from the crankcase

noting the direction of the beveled side of the

gears for installing purposes; then remove the two

starter gear shafts.

CD136

CD140

12. Remove the snap ring securing the water pump

drive gear; then remove the gear noting the direc-

tion of the sides of the gear for installing purposes.

Account for the drive gear alignment pin.

CD944

13. Remove the snap ring securing the water pump

driven gear; then remove the gear noting the direc-

tion of the sides of the gear for installing purposes.

Account for the driven gear alignment pin.

 AT THIS POINT

To service the magneto assembly, see Section 5.

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3-73

CD952A

NOTE: There is an oil passage beneath the driven

gear/drive gear assembly. This passage should be

plugged prior to removing the driven gear and

drive gear. Failure to do so could result in the loss

of an alignment pin into the crankcase.

14. Remove the shift shaft noting the timing marks for

assembling purposes. Account for two washers.

PR430A

15. Remove the gear shift cam plate; then remove the

cam stopper and cam stopper spring. Account for

two washers.

PR434A

Servicing Left-Side

Components

A. RECOIL STARTER (500)

Disassembling

1. Rotate the reel counterclockwise until the notch of

the reel is near the rope guide in the case. Guide

the rope into the notch and slowly allow the reel to

retract until all spiral spring tension is released.

B600D

2. Remove the nut.

B601D

3. Slowly release the friction plate and lift the plate

with ratchet guide free of the recoil case; then

remove the ratchet guide from the friction plate.

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when servicing the recoil

starter.

! WARNING

During the disassembly procedure, continuous down-

ward pressure must be exerted on the reel so it does

not accidentally disengage and cause injury.

! CAUTION

During the disassembly procedure, make sure all

spring tension is released before continuing.

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3-74

B602D

4. Remove the spring, collar, and friction spring;

then remove the ratchet and account for the pin.

B603D

B604D

5. Carefully lift the reel from the case making sure

the spiral spring does not accidentally disengage

from the case.

B605D

6. Remove the protective cover from the starter han-

dle and pull the rope out of the handle; then untie

the knot in the rope and remove the handle.

NOTE: Do not remove the spiral spring unless

replacement is necessary. If replacement is neces-

sary, follow steps 7-8.

7. Remove the spring from the case by lifting the

spring end up and out. Hold the remainder of the

spring with thumbs and alternately release each

thumb to allow the spring to gradually release

from the case.

8. Unwind the rope from the reel and remove the

rope.

Cleaning and Inspecting

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all components.

2. Inspect the springs and ratchet for wear or dam-

age.

3. Inspect the reel and case for cracks or damage.

4. Inspect the shaft for wear, cracks, or damage.

5. Inspect the rope for breaks or fraying.

6. Inspect the spiral spring for cracks, crystallization,

or abnormal bends.

7. Inspect the handle for damage, cracks, or deterio-

ration.

Assembling

1. If removed, insert the spiral spring into the case

with the outer end of the spring around the mount-

ing lug in the case; then wind it in a counterclock-

wise direction until the complete spring is

installed.

NOTE: The spiral spring must seat evenly in the

recoil case.

! WARNING

Care must be taken when lifting the reel free of the

case. Wear safety glasses to avoid injury.

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B606D

2. Insert the rope through the hole in the reel and tie a

knot in the end; then wrap the rope counter- clock-

wise around the reel leaving approximately 50 cm

(20 in.) of rope free of the reel.

3. Apply low-temperature grease to the spring and

hub.

4. Thread the end of the rope through the guide hole

of the case; then thread the rope through the han-

dle and secure it with a double knot. Install the

protective cover into the handle.

5. Align the inner hook of the spiral spring with the

notch in the reel.

B605D

6. Install the ratchet making sure the end is properly

installed on the reel.

7. Install the friction spring and the spring cover;

then install the friction plate with the ratchet guide

fitting into the ratchet.

8. While pushing down on the reel, install the nut.

Tighten securely.

B601D

9. With the 50 cm (20 in.) of rope exposed, hook the

rope in the notch of the reel.

10. Rotate the reel four turns counterclockwise; then

release the rope from the notch and allow the rope

to retract.

11. Pull the rope out two or three times to check for

correct tension.

NOTE: Increasing the rotations in step 10 will

increase spring tension.

B. STARTER MOTOR

C. WATER PUMP

Installing Left-Side

Components

NOTE: Plug the oil passage in the crankcase

housing prior to installing the drive gear/driven

gear assembly to prevent loss of an alignment pin.

1. Install the water pump driven gear alignment pin

and the driven gear (with the beveled side of the

gear facing outward as noted in removing); then

secure with the snap ring.

 AT THIS POINT

To service the starter motor, see Section 5.

 AT THIS POINT

To service the water pump, see Section 4.

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CD950A

CD952A

CD949

NOTE: The sharp side of the snap ring should be

facing outward.

2. Install the water pump drive gear drive pin and the

drive gear (with the flat side of the gear facing out-

ward as noted in removing); then secure with the

snap ring.

CD946A

CD944

NOTE: The sharp side of the snap ring should be

facing outward.

NOTE: Once the gears are secured, remove the

oil passage plug from the crankcase.

3. Install the two starter gear shafts; then install the

two starter gears (with the beveled side of the

intermediate gear facing inward as noted in

removing).

CD139

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CD145

4. In order on the crankshaft, install a washer, ring

gear, key, and the magneto rotor. Secure with the

nut. Tighten to 116 ft-lb (500) or 107 ft-lb (H1

models).

CD948A

CD940B

5. Install the thrust washer and shift cam plate onto

the shift cam shaft; then coat the cap screw threads

with red Loctite #271 and tighten securely.

PR433A

CD934

6. Install the shift cam stopper, spring, and two wash-

ers; then coat the threads on the mounting stud

with red Loctite #271 and install the nut. Tighten

securely.

PR434A

7. Install the shift shaft with two washers making

sure to align the timing mark on the shift shaft

with the mark on the shift cam plate.

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CD954A

CD927A

8. Lubricate the magneto cover gasket with fresh

engine oil; then place it into position on the two

alignment pins. Make sure the outer shift shaft

washer is in place.

PR431A

9. Install the magneto cover and secure with the cap

screws. Tighten only until snug.

10. Place the starter cup/spacer into position on the

crankshaft making sure a new, lubricated O-ring is

inside the cup/spacer. Tighten the flange nut to 25

ft-lb.

CD925A

11. Tighten the cap screws (from step 9) to 8 ft-lb.

12. Place the speed sensor housing and gasket into

position and secure with the two cap screws.

Tighten securely.

CD069

13. Place the water pump into position and secure with

two cap screws. Tighten securely.

14. Install the crossover tube on the water pump and

cylinder head making sure the O-ring is properly

positioned.

15. Install the shift arm on the shift arm shaft making

sure the scribed marks (from removing) are

aligned. Tighten securely.

16. Place the gasket and recoil starter/outer magneto

cover into position on the left-side cover; then

tighten four cap screws to 6 ft-lb.

Right-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Right-Side

Components

A. V-Belt Cover

B. Driven Pulley

C. Clutch Cover

1. Remove the cap screws securing the V-belt cover

noting the location of the different-lengthed cap

screws for installing purposes; then using a rubber

mallet, gently tap on the cover tabs to loosen the

cover.

CD079

2. Remove the nut and washer (500) securing the

movable drive face; then remove the face.

Account for a spacer.

CD963

CD966A

3. Remove the V-belt.

4. Remove the nut securing the fixed driven assem-

bly; then remove the assembly.

PR388

5. Remove the fixed drive face.

6. Using an impact driver, remove the cap screws

securing the air intake plate; then remove the plate

cushion.

PR393

7. Remove the cap screws securing the clutch cover.

Note the location of the different-lengthed cap

screws for installing purposes. Using a rubber

mallet, carefully remove the cover. Account for

two alignment pins.

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CD973A

CD974A

NOTE: For steps 8-14, refer to illustration

CC829B.

NOTE: To aid in installing, it is recommended

that the assemblies are kept together and IN

ORDER.

CC829B

8. Remove the one-way clutch (D) from the clutch

housing. Note the location of the green alignment

dot (or the word OUTSIDE) for installing pur-

poses.

9. Using a hydraulic press, remove the clutch hous-

ing assembly from the clutch cover. Account for

the left fixed drive spacer and an O-ring inside the

fixed drive spacer.

CF085

CC596

NOTE: Account for and inspect the clutch hous-

ing seal.

CF088A

10. Remove the two cap screws securing the gear shift

position switch; then remove the switch. Account

for two neutral contact pins and two springs.

! CAUTION

Care must be taken when removing the cover so the

cover gasket is not damaged.

KEY

A. Oil Pump Driven Gear

B. Oil Pump Drive Gear

C. Clutch Shoe Assembly

D. One-Way Clutch

E. Final Drive Carrier Bearing

Housing

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CD997

11. Remove the nut (left-hand threads) securing the

clutch shoe assembly (C).

PR410A

12. Remove the cap screw securing the oil pump drive

gear (B). Account for a cap screw, washer, pin, and

spacer.

CC606

CD987

CD993

13. Using an impact wrench, remove the cap screws

securing the final drive carrier bearing housing

(E); then remove the housing and account for two

alignment pins.

CD999

14. Remove the snap ring securing the oil pump

driven gear (A); then remove the gear noting the

direction of the sides of the gear for installing pur-

poses. Account for a pin and a washer.

CD984

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CD895A

15. Using an impact driver, remove the three Phil-

lips-head screws securing the oil pump; then

remove the pump.

CD988

Servicing Right-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

INSPECTING CENTRIFUGAL

CLUTCH SHOE

1. Inspect the clutch shoes for uneven wear, chips,

cracks, or discoloration. If any shoe is damaged,

replace the complete set.

2. Inspect the clutch shoes for wear or damage. If any

shoe is worn to the bottom of the groove, replace

the complete set.

ATV1014

INSPECTING CLUTCH HOUSING

1. Inspect the clutch housing for burns, grooving,

cracks, or uneven wear.

2. If the housing is damaged in any way, the housing

must be replaced.

INSPECTING PRIMARY

ONE-WAY DRIVE

1. Insert the drive into the clutch housing.

2. Rotate the inner race by hand and verify the inner

race rotates only one direction.

3. If the inner race is locked in place or rotates both

directions, the drive assembly must be replaced.

INSPECTING OIL PUMP

1. Inspect the pump for damage.

2. It is inadvisable to remove the screw securing the

pump halves. If the oil pump is damaged, it must

be replaced.

CC446D

! CAUTION

Always replace the clutch shoes as a complete set or

severe imbalance could occur.

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DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY

NOTE: On the H1 models, the driven pulley is a

nonserviceable component. If the pulley faces,

cam ramps, or sheeve bushing are worn or loose,

the pulley must be replaced as an assembly. Do

not disassemble the driven pulley on the H1 mod-

els.

Disassembling

1. Secure Driven Pulley Compressor in a suitable

holding fixture such as a bench vise; then remove

the wing nut, holding handle, flat washer, and pilot

bushing leaving the large spacer on the compres-

sor tool base.

CD047

2. Place the driven pulley assembly onto the com-

pressor tool base engaging the dowel pins into

appropriate holes in the fixed face of the assembly.

CD048

3. Install the pilot bushing with the machined end

directed down; then fit the bushing into the pulley

hub.

CD067

4. Using a suitable marking pen, make alignment

marks on the fixed face spring holder and both

pulley faces.

CD049

5. Place the holding handle on the spring holder fit-

ting the two dowel pins into the spring holder face;

then install a flat washer and the wing nut. Turn

the wing nut down until resistance is felt.

NOTE: Do not use the wing nut to compress the

spring further.

CD050

6. Using a spanner and suitable breaker bar, loosen

the notched-ring nut; then spin the nut free of the

hub.

! WARNING

This procedure involves relaxing a compressed spring

assembly. DO NOT attempt disassembling without the

proper tools.

! WARNING

The spring assembly is under pressure. Extreme care

must be taken when relaxing the spring. Always wear

safety glasses. Use proper tools only.

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CD051

7. Firmly hold the handle and slowly turn the wing

nut counterclockwise to relax the spring.

NOTE: There will be a tendency for the handle to

rotate clockwise approximately ¼ turn as the

spring holder clears the flats or hub. This is due to

a slight counterclockwise preload on the spring.

CD052

8. Release the preload slowly; then continue to relax

the spring until the wing nut is flush with the end

of the threads.

9. Firmly holding the spring and spring holder,

remove the wing nut; then remove the spring.

CD053

10. Using a thin pry-bar or screwdriver, work the

movable face sleeve upward and free of the

O-rings; then remove the sleeve.

CD054

11. Remove the four pins and spacers from the cam

slots in the movable face; then remove the mov-

able face.

CF091

CD056

Inspecting

1. Inspect the pulley faces for wear, galling, or

grooving.

2. Inspect the O-rings on the movable face for nicks,

tears, or swelling.

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CF092A

3. Inspect two grease seals in the movable face for

nicks, cuts, or damage.

CF095A

4. Inspect the pins and bushings for wear, flat spots,

looseness, or cracking.

Assembling

1. Place the fixed face of the driven pulley on the

pulley compressor base making sure the dowel

pins are engaged in the appropriate holes in the

pulley face.

NOTE: Make sure the spacer is on the base or

damage to the fixed face will occur when the

spring is compressed.

CD048

2. Apply multi-purpose grease to the O-rings and

grease seals on the movable face; then install on

the fixed face making sure the alignment marks

are properly aligned.

CD060

3. Install the four pins and spacers into the fixed face

hub; then pack the cam slots in the movable face

with multi-purpose grease.

CF095A

4. Install the movable face sleeve aligning the hole in

the spring seat with the spring anchor hole in the

movable face.

CF097

5. Install the spring over the hub and movable face

sleeve; then insert the end of the spring through

the sleeve and into the spring anchor hole in the

movable face.

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CF089A

6. Place the spring holder on the spring engaging the

spring end with the appropriate anchor hole.

CF087A

7. Assemble the notched-ring nut, spring holding

handle, one flat washer, and the wing nut in order

on the pulley compressor bolt; then thread the

wing nut onto the bolt.

CD052

8. Compress the spring until the spring holder nears

the threads on the fixed face hub; then using the

handle, wind the spring holder counterclockwise

to align the flats of the spring holder and hub.

CD052A

9. Continue compressing the spring while guiding

the spring holder onto the hub. When a slight

resistance is felt, stop turning the wing nut.

10. Install the nut (threads coated with red Loctite

#271); then tighten the nut to 74 ft-lb using the

spanner and a torque wrench.

CD066

11. Remove the wing nut, washer, and holding handle;

then remove the driven pulley from the pulley

compressor.

Installing Right-Side

Components

1. Install the gear shift position switch making sure

the two neutral contact pins and the two springs

are properly positioned. Tighten the Allen-head

screws securely.

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CD997

CD994

2. Install the secondary shaft bearing housing making

sure the two alignment pins are properly posi-

tioned. Tighten the Allen-head screws securely.

CD999

3. Install the oil pump onto the engine; then tighten

the Phillips-head screws securely.

CD988

4. Install the oil pump drive gear spacer onto the

crank balancer shaft. Grease the pin and insert it

into the shaft; then install the drive gear making

sure the raised side of the gear is facing toward the

inside. Secure the gear with the cap screw (threads

coated with red Loctite #271) and the washer.

Tighten the cap screw to 36 ft-lb (500) or 63 ft-lb

(H1 models).

CD992

CD991

5. Grease the driven gear pin and insert it into the oil

pump shaft; then install the driven gear (noting the

direction of the sides of the gear from removing).

Secure with a snap ring.

CD985A

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CD984

NOTE: When installed correctly, the sides of the

drive and driven gears will be flush with each

other.

6. Install the clutch shoe assembly and secure with

the flange nut (threads coated with red Loctite

#271). Tighten to 94 ft-lb (500) or 221 ft-lb (H1

models).

PR410A

7. Lightly grease the clutch housing seal; then insert

the left fixed drive spacer.

CF088A

CF086

8. Install the clutch cover alignment pins into the

crankcase, apply oil to the cover gasket, and install

the gasket onto the crankcase.

9. Apply grease to the outer edges of the clutch hous-

ing; then from inside the clutch cover, install the

clutch housing into the cover using a rubber mal-

let.

10. Install the one-way clutch onto the clutch shoe

assembly.

PR399A

11. Place the clutch cover/clutch housing assembly

into position on the crankcase; then secure with

the cap screws making sure the different-lengthed

cap screws are in their proper location. Tighten to

8 ft-lb.

12. Place the air intake plate cushion into position;

then install the air intake plate. Tighten the cap

screws (threads treated with a small amount of red

Loctite #271) securely.

! CAUTION

When installed correctly, the green alignment dot (or

the word OUTSIDE) on the one-way clutch is visible.

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CD971

CD970

13. Place the driven pulley assembly into position and

secure with the nut (threads coated with red Loc-

tite #271). Tighten to 80 ft-lb.

CF262

14. Slide the fixed drive face onto the shaft.

15. Spread the faces of the driven pulley by pushing

the inner face toward the engine while turning it

counterclockwise (500) or thread in a push-bolt

(H1 models); then when the faces are separated,

insert the belt and push down between the faces.

16. Place the V-belt into position on the driven pulley

and over the front shaft.

PR389

NOTE: The arrows on the V-belt should point for-

ward.

17. Pinch the V-belt together near its center and slide

the spacer and movable drive face onto the shaft.

Secure the drive face with a nut and washer (500)

(threads coated with red Loctite #271). Tighten the

nut to 72 ft-lb (500) or 165 ft-lb (H1 models).

FI428A

NOTE: At this point, the push-bolt can be

removed from between the driven pulley faces.

18. Rotate the V-belt and drive/driven assemblies until

the V-belt is flush with the top of the driven pulley.

19. Place the V-belt cover gasket into position; then

install the cover and secure with the cap screws

making sure the different-lengthed cap screws are

in their proper location. Tighten the cap screws to

8 ft-lb.

! CAUTION

Make sure the splines extend beyond the drive face or

a false torque reading and spline damage may occur.

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CD083

Center Crankcase

Components

NOTE: This procedure cannot be done with the

engine/transmission in the frame. Complete

Removing procedures for Top-Side, Left-Side, and

Right-Side must precede this procedure.

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

Separating Crankcase

Halves

1. Remove the right-side cap screws securing the

crankcase halves. Note the location of the differ-

ent-lengthed cap screws.

2. Remove the left-side cap screws securing the

crankcase halves. Note the location of the differ-

ent-lengthed cap screws.

3. Using the Crankcase Separator/Crankshaft

Remover and tapping lightly with a rubber mallet,

separate the crankcase halves. Account for two

alignment pins.

NOTE: To keep the shaft/gear assemblies intact

for identification, tap the shafts toward the

left-side crankcase half when separating the

halves.

CC665

Disassembling

Crankcase Half

NOTE: For steps 1-7, refer to illustration CC821B.



NOTE: To aid in installing, it is recommended that

the assemblies are kept together and IN ORDER.

CC821B

1. Remove the secondary driven shaft assembly (A)

noting the location of the bearing locating pins.

Account for the bearing C-ring.

CD267

KEY

A. Secondary Driven Shaft

Assembly

B. Crank Balancer Assembly

C. Crankshaft

D. Countershaft Assembly

E. Driveshaft

F. Reverse Idler Gear Assembly

G. Gear Shift Shaft

H. Shift Shaft with 2 Forks

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2. Remove the reverse idler gear assembly (F).

Account for all washers, shaft, bushing, and the

gear.

CC668

3. Remove the shift shaft (H); then remove the two

forks taking note of the direction of the tabs on the

forks for assembling purposes.

4. Remove the gear shift shaft (G) noting the location

of the two holes on the end of the shaft. Account

for two washers.

PR380A

5. Remove the countershaft assembly (D). Account

for a washer on each end of the countershaft.

CC674

NOTE: Do not disassemble the countershaft

assembly unless necessary. If necessary, see Ser-

vicing Center Crankcase Components sub-sec-

tion.

6. Using a rubber mallet, tap on the crankcase to

remove the driveshaft.

CC675

7. Note the timing marks on the crank balancer

assembly (B) gear and crankshaft (C) gear for

assembling purposes; then slide the crank balancer

gear off the crank balancer. Account for the key in

the keyway.

CD826

8. Remove the crank balancer.

NOTE: There is a flat spot on the crank balancer

bearing flange to allow clearance past the crank-

shaft.

CD832B

9. Remove the snap ring securing the water pump

driven gear shaft.

10. Using a hydraulic press, remove the crankshaft

assembly.

NOTE: Use a protective end cap to prevent dam-

age to the crankshaft threads.

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11. Remove the cap screws securing the oil strainer

cap; then remove the cap. Account for the cap

O-ring (500).

PR407

12. Remove the two cap screws securing the oil

strainer; then remove the strainer.

NOTE: On the H1 models, thoroughly clean any

sealant from the oil strainer cap.

PR406

13. To remove the secondary drive/bevel gear, remove

the secondary drive bearing housing; then remove

the nut securing the drive/bevel gear shaft in the

bearing and using a plastic mallet, drive the shaft

out of the bearing. Account for shim/shims.

NOTE: Shims should be measured and kept for a

starting point in adjusting backlash.

Servicing Center

Crankcase Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

NOTE: Certain models have been built using spi-

ral gears, and certain models have been built

using net-forged gears. When performing service

procedures on the secondary gears, the technician

should use sound judgment in determining which

type of gear is being serviced.

SECONDARY GEARS (Spiral)

NOTE: When checking and correcting secondary

gear backlash and tooth contact, the universal

joint must be secured to the front shaft or false

measurements will occur.

Checking Backlash

NOTE: The rear shaft and bevel gear must be

removed for this procedure. Also, always start with

the original shims on the rear shaft.

1. Place the left-side crankcase cover onto the

left-side crankcase half to prevent runout of the

secondary transmission output shaft.

2. Install the secondary driven output shaft assembly

onto the crankcase.

3. Mount the dial indicator so the tip is contacting a

tooth on the secondary driven bevel gear.

4. While rocking the driven bevel gear back and

forth, note the maximum backlash reading on the

gauge.

5. Acceptable backlash range is 0.05-0.33 mm

(0.002-0.013 in.).

Correcting Backlash

NOTE: If backlash measurement is within the

acceptable range, no correction is necessary.

1. If backlash measurement is less than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

new thinner shim.

2. If backlash measurement is more than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

thicker shim.

NOTE: Continue to remove, measure, and install

until backlash measurement is within tolerance.

Note the following chart.

! CAUTION

Unless the secondary drive gear, bevel gear, or bear-

ings require service, do not remove the secondary

drive assembly from the case. If removed, bevel gear

backlash will have to be adjusted requiring re-shim-

ming of the drive bevel gear shaft.

Backlash Measurement Shim Correction

Under 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) Decrease Shim Thickness

At 0.05-0.33 mm (0.002-0.013 in.) No Correction Required

Over 0.33 mm (0.013 in.) Increase Shim Thickness

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Checking Tooth Contact

NOTE: After correcting backlash of the second-

ary driven bevel gear, it is necessary to check

tooth contact.

1. Remove the secondary driven output shaft assem-

bly from the left-side crankcase half.

2. Clean the secondary driven bevel gear teeth of old

oil and grease residue.

3. Apply a thin, even coat of a machinist-layout dye

to several teeth of the gear.

4. Install the secondary driven output shaft assembly.

5. Rotate the secondary driven bevel gear several

revolutions in both directions.

6. Examine the tooth contact pattern in the dye and

compare the pattern to the illustrations.

ATV-0103

ATV-0105

ATV-0104

Correcting Tooth Contact

NOTE: If tooth contact pattern is comparable to

the correct pattern illustration, no correction is

necessary.

If tooth contact pattern is comparable to an incorrect

pattern, correct tooth contact according to the follow-

ing chart.

NOTE: To correct tooth contact, steps 1 and 2

(with NOTE) of “Correcting Backlash” must be fol-

lowed and the above “Tooth Contact/Shim Correc-

tion” chart must be consulted.

SECONDARY OUTPUT DRIVE

GEARS (Net-Forged)

Initial Set-Up

NOTE: If the secondary output driven shaft is

replaced or disassembled, the initial set-up must

be performed to establish correct gear tooth con-

tact. If only the secondary output drive shaft or

secondary output driven gear are replaced, pro-

ceed to Correcting Backlash in this sub-section.

1. Install a new bearing (A) onto the secondary driven

shaft (B) making sure the bearing locating groove is

directed away from the driven gear splines.

MT011A

2. Using a suitable press, install the driven gear (C)

on the shaft until the gear firmly seats on the

shoulder of the shaft.

Tooth Contact Shim Correction

Contacts at Top Decrease Shim Thickness

Contacts at Root Increase Shim Thickness

! CAUTION

After correcting tooth contact, backlash must again be

checked and corrected (if necessary). Continue the

correcting backlash/correcting tooth contact proce-

dures until they are both within tolerance values.

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MT011B

3. If installing the existing shaft, start with the shims

removed during disassembly or if installing a new

shaft, start with approximately 1.0 mm shims at

point (D); then install the output drive shaft bear-

ing (E) making sure the locating pin is directed

toward the center of the shaft.

MT012

MT008A

4. Install a new seal (F), output yoke (G), and nut (H)

and tighten to 59 ft-lb.

MT008B

NOTE: Do not use a new lock nut at this time as

this procedure may have to be repeated.

5. Place the assembled shaft into the left crankshaft

case; then lightly coat the gear teeth with machin-

ist's lay-out dye. Rotate the shafts through several

rotations in both directions. Gear contact should

extend from the root to the top of the gear teeth.

MT016A

6. To adjust tooth contact, use the following chart to

correctly shim the driven shaft.

7. After correct tooth contact is established, proceed

to Checking Backlash in this sub-section.

Checking Backlash

1. If removed, install the secondary drive/bevel gear

shaft into the crankcase; then tighten the nut to 59

ft-lb.

2. Install the secondary drive bearing support; then

install the secondary driven output shaft into the

crankcase.

3. Mount the dial indicator so the tip is contacting a

tooth on the secondary drive bevel gear.

4. While rocking the drive bevel gear back and forth,

note the maximum backlash reading on the gauge.

Tooth Contact Shim Correction

Contact at Top Increase Shim Thickness

Contact at Root Decrease Shim Thickness

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MT005A

5. Acceptable backlash range is 0.05-0.33 mm

(0.002-0.013 in.).

Correcting Backlash

NOTE: If backlash measurement is within the

acceptable range, no correction is necessary.

1. If backlash measurement is less than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

new thinner shim.

2. If backlash measurement is more than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

thicker shim.

NOTE: Continue to remove, measure, and install

until backlash measurement is within tolerance.

Note the following chart.

After backlash and tooth contact are within specifica-

tions, apply red Loctite #271 to the drive shaft threads

and driven output shaft threads; then using new nuts,

tighten the output shaft nut to 59 ft-lb and the output

yoke nut to 74 ft-lb.

CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge into the upper connecting rod

small end bore; then remove the gauge and mea-

sure it with micrometer.

CC290D

2. Maximum diameter must not exceed specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Deflection)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks and

mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against

the center of the connecting rod small end journal.

2. Zero the indicator and push the small end of the

connecting rod away from the dial indicator.

3. Maximum deflection must not exceed specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Side-to-Side)

1. Push the lower end of the connecting rod to one

side of the crankshaft journal.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the

connecting rod and crankshaft journal.

CC289D

3. Acceptable gap range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Width)

1. Using a calipers, measure the width of the con-

necting rod at the big-end bearing.

Backlash Measurement Shim Correction

Under 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) Decrease Shim Thickness

At 0.05-0.33 mm (0.002-0.013 in.) No Correction Required

Over 0.33 mm (0.013 in.) Increase Shim Thickness

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2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Crankshaft (Runout)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact at point 1 of

the crankshaft.

ATV-1074

3. Zero the indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

NOTE: Proceed to check runout on the other end

of the crankshaft by positioning the indicator con-

tact at point 2 and following steps 3-4.

Measuring Crankshaft

(Web-to-Web)

1. Using a calipers, measure the distance from the

outside edge of one web to the outside edge of the

other web.

ATV-1017

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

COUNTERSHAFT

Disassembling

From the right side:

1. Remove the right drive gear washer; then remove

drive gear #2.

2. Remove the reverse driven gear dog; then remove

the snap ring.

3. Remove the reverse driven gear spacer; then

remove the snap ring.

4. In order, remove washer, reverse driven gear, bear-

ing, and bushing.

5. In order, remove washer, lock washer, lock

washer, and low driven gear.

6. In order, remove bearing, bushing, and driven gear

washer.

From the left side:

1. Remove the left drive gear washer; then remove

the high driven gear and bearing.

2. In order, remove bushing, driven gear washer, and

sliding dog.

Assembling

From the left side:

1. Install the sliding dog, driven gear washer, and

bushing.

2. Install bearing and high driven gear; then install

the left drive gear washer.

From the right side:

1. Install driven gear washer, bushing, bearing and

low driven gear.

2. Install lock washer, lock washer, washer and bush-

ing.

3. Install bearing, reverse driven gear, washer, and

the snap ring.

4. Install reverse driven gear spacer, snap ring,

reverse driven gear dog, and drive gear #2; then

install the right drive gear washer.

! CAUTION

Care should be taken to support the connecting rod

when rotating the crankshaft.

! CAUTION

When disassembling the countershaft, care must be

taken to note the direction each major component

(dog, gear) faces. If a major component is installed

facing the wrong direction, transmission damage may

occur and/or the transmission will malfunction. In

either case, complete disassembly and assembly will

be required.

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NOTE: When installing the countershaft assem-

bly, account for the washer on each end of the

shaft.

Assembling

Crankcase Half

1. Install the secondary driven output shaft assembly

into the crankcase.

CC687

2. Apply a liberal amount of engine oil to the crank-

shaft bearing. Using a propane torch, heat the

bearing until the oil begins to smoke; then slide the

crankshaft assembly into place.

CC688

CC689

NOTE: If heating the bearing is not possible, the

crankshaft can be installed using a crankshaft

installing tool.

3. Install the crank balancer.

CD832B

NOTE: It will be necessary to rotate the crank bal-

ancer until the counterweight is facing away from

the crankshaft; then rotate the crankshaft clock-

wise into the journal area to allow the crank bal-

ancer to be fully seated.

4. Place the key into the crank balancer keyway; then

install the crank balancer gear making sure the

alignment dots on the crank balancer gear and the

crankshaft gear align.

CD826A

5. Install the driveshaft.

CC675

6. Place a washer on each end of the countershaft

assembly; then install the assembly.

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CC674

7. Place a washer on each end of the gear shift shaft;

then install the shaft assembly making sure the two

holes on the end of the shaft are positioned verti-

cally.

8. Insert the two shift forks into the sliding dogs not-

ing the direction of the tabs from disassembling;

then install the shift fork shaft.

NOTE: Make sure the shift fork tabs face upward

and that they are properly seated into the shift

cams.

CC669

9. Install the reverse idler gear assembly noting the

positioning of the two washers, gear, bushing, and

shaft.

CC668

10. Install the front and rear secondary driven shaft

assemblies into the left side of the crankcase mak-

ing sure the bearing locating pins are facing

upward and the bearing C-ring is fully seated in

the crankcase.

CD268A

11. Place the oil strainer into position; then secure

with the two screws.

12. Place the oil strainer cap into position making sure

the O-ring is in position (500) or silicone sealant is

applied (H1 models); then secure the cap with cap

screws. Tighten securely.

Joining Crankcase

Halves

1. Apply High-Temp Sealant to the left-side mating

surface.

2. Lightly oil all bearings and grease all shafts in the

right-side crankcase.

3. Using a propane torch, heat the right-side crank-

shaft bearing until the oil begins to smoke; then

join the two crankcase halves.

CC695

4. Using a plastic mallet, lightly tap the case halves

together until cap screws can be installed.

5. From the right side, install the 8 mm cap screws;

then tighten only until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

6. From the left side, install the remaining 8 mm cap

screws (two inside the case); then tighten only

until snug.

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NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

7. From the left side, install the case half 6 mm cap

screws; then tighten only until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

8. From the right side, install the 6 mm cap screws;

then tighten only until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

9. In a crisscross/case-to-case pattern, tighten the 8

mm cap screws (from steps 5-6) until the halves

are correctly joined; then tighten to 16 ft-lb.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

10. In a crisscross/case-to-case pattern, tighten the 6

mm cap screws (from steps 7-8) to 8 ft-lb.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

Installing

Engine/Transmission

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends that new gaskets

and O-rings be installed whenever servicing the

ATV.

1. From the left side, place the engine/transmission

into the frame; then slide the engine rearward as

far as possible.

2. Slightly raise the rear of the engine and engage the

front drive coupler into the splines of the front

drive output yoke; then slide the engine forward as

far as possible.

CD818

3. Raise the rear of the engine and place a block

beneath it; then install the propeller shaft and out-

put flange into the rear drive coupler.

CD821

4. Remove the block from beneath the engine; then

align the rear drive flanges and secure with four

cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

CD824

5. Install the engine mounting through-bolts and

mounting hardware; then tighten to 40 ft-lb.

 AT THIS POINT

After completing center crankcase components, pro-

ceed to Installing Right-Side Components, to Install-

ing Left-Side Components, and to Installing Top-Side

Components.

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CD809

6. Secure the exhaust pipe to the engine with two cap

screws making sure the mounting brackets engage

the frame grommets; then install the muffler and

tighten the nuts securing the exhaust pipe to 20 ft-lb.

CD803

CF138A

7. Install the cooling ducts with clamps and tighten

the clamps securely.

CD515

CD793

8. Secure the engine ground wire to the engine with a

cap screw. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

CD810

9. Connect the gear shift position switch (A), stator

connector (B), and the CDI connector (C) to the

main wiring harness.

CD797A

10. Connect the temperature sensor wire to the main

wiring harness.

11. Secure the wires to the frame with nylon ties.

12. Connect the speed sensor connector to the hous-

ing.

13. Secure the positive cable to the starter motor.

14. Secure all wiring to the frame and upper engine

bracket with cable ties.

15. Secure the two coolant hoses to the engine.

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16. Secure the crankcase vent hose to the air cleaner

housing; then secure the inlet boot and carbure-

tor/throttle body to the air filter housing.

CD787

CD785

17. Secure the shift rod to the engine with a new

E-clip.

CD774

18. Place the left-side footwell and foot peg in posi-

tion on the frame; then secure with existing hard-

ware. Tighten securely.

19. Install the front body panel with existing hard-

ware.

20. Connect the hose to the fuel pump/fuel rail; then

connect the vacuum hose and secure with hose

clamps (500) or connect the gasline hose connec-

tor to the fuel rail (H1 models).

CD766C

FI092C

21. Install the side panels into position.

22. Place the battery into position in the battery com-

partment; then install the battery cables and vent

hose. Secure with the battery cover.

23. Add proper amounts of engine/transmission oil

and coolant.

24. Install the seat.

! CAUTION

Battery acid is harmful if it contacts eyes, skin, or

clothing. Care must be taken whenever handling a bat-

tery.

! CAUTION

If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major part

was replaced, proper engine break-in procedures must

be followed (see Section 1). If the proper engine

break-in procedures are not followed, severe engine

damage may result.

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Table of Contents

(500 - Manual Transmission)

Removing Engine/Transmission.......................... 3-102

Top-Side Components......................................... 3-106

Removing Top-Side Components ....................... 3-106

Servicing Top-Side Components......................... 3-110

Installing Top-Side Components ......................... 3-117

Left-Side Components ........................................ 3-123

Removing Left-Side Components ....................... 3-123

Servicing Left-Side Components ........................ 3-127

Installing Left-Side Components ......................... 3-130

Right-Side Components ...................................... 3-135

Removing Right-Side Components..................... 3-135

Servicing Right-Side Components ...................... 3-139

Installing Right-Side Components....................... 3-142

Center Crankcase Components.......................... 3-146

Separating Crankcase Halves............................. 3-146

Disassembling Crankcase Half ........................... 3-147

Servicing Center Crankcase Components.......... 3-149

Assembling Crankcase Half ................................ 3-159

Joining Crankcase Halves................................... 3-161

Installing Engine/Transmission............................ 3-162

Removing Engine/

Transmission

Many service procedures can be performed without

removing the engine/transmission from the frame.

Closely observe the note introducing each sub-section

for this important information.

Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the negative cable from the battery; then

remove the positive cable. Remove the battery

vent hose; then remove the battery.

3. Remove the radiator access cover, steering post

cover, and storage compartment cover assembly;

then remove the storage compartment box.

4. Remove the side panels.

CF242A

5. Remove the instrument pod; then remove the front

rack and front body panel (see Section 8).

6. Drain the oil from beneath the engine/transmis-

sion; then drain the cooling system.

ATV-0109

CD799A

7. Remove the air filter (see Section 2).

 AT THIS POINT

If the technician’s objective is to service Top-Side

Components, Left-Side Components, or Right-Side

Components, the engine/transmission does not have

to be removed from the frame.

 AT THIS POINT

If the technician’s objective is to service/replace

left-side cover oil seals, front output joint oil seal, rear

output joint oil seal, and/or the oil strainer (from

beneath the engine/transmission), the engine/trans-

mission does not have to be removed from the frame.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

! CAUTION

Battery acid is harmful if it contacts eyes, skin, or

clothing. Care must be taken whenever handling a bat-

tery.

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8. Remove the vacuum hose and the

fuel-pump-to-carburetor hose.

CD766A

9. Remove the cap screws securing the left-side foot

peg and footwell to the footrest; then remove the

footwell.

CD782

10. Remove the springs securing the muffler to the

exhaust pipe; then remove the muffler. Account

for two exhaust springs.

CF138A

11. Remove the cap screws securing the exhaust pipe

to the head; then remove the exhaust pipe.

CD803

12. Remove the E-clip securing the shift rod to the

engine shift arm; then allow the shift rod to swing

forward and hang straight down from the shift

lever.

13. Disconnect the speed sensor connector from the

sensor housing.

14. Remove the four cap screws securing the rear out-

put joint to the transmission and push the shaft

away from the transmission.

CD805

15. Loosen the clamp securing the air intake duct to

the air filter housing.

CD785

16. Disconnect the crankcase vent hose from the air

filter housing. Loosen the clamp securing the car-

buretor intake duct to the air filter housing; then

remove the housing.

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CD787

CD786

17. Remove the clamp securing the upper coolant hose

to the thermostat housing; then disconnect the

hose.

CC335D

18. Disconnect the high tension lead from the spark

plug; then remove the coil.

19. Disconnect the battery ground (negative) cable

from the crankcase cover; then disconnect the pos-

itive cable from the starter motor.

AR600D

AR604D

20. Remove the clamp securing the lower coolant hose

to the water pump housing; then disconnect the hose.

CC334D

21. Loosen the clamp on the crankcase breather vent

hose; then remove the hose.

CC122D

22. Remove the engine/transmission mounting fasten-

ers in the following sequence:

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A. Lower front: One cap screw, nut, spacer, and

washer.

CC123D

B. Lower rear: One cap screw, nut, spacer, and

washer.

CC126D

23. Raise the rear of the engine enough to allow the

rear output flange to clear the output flange joint.

Place a block beneath the engine in this position.

CD811

24. Remove the first small boot clamp; then slide the

output flange and driveshaft out of the rear cou-

pler.

CD812A

CD813

25. Remove the block and lower the rear of the

engine; then remove the boot clamp on the front

output drive yoke.

CD817

26. Move the engine to the rear enough to allow the

front drive coupler to clear the front output yoke;

then move the engine forward and to the left.

Remove the engine from the left-side of the frame.

CD773

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Top-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Top-Side

Components

A. Valve Cover/Rocker Arms

B. Cylinder Head/Camshaft

NOTE: Remove the spark plug and timing inspec-

tion plug; then using the recoil starter, rotate the

crankshaft to top-dead-center of the compression

stroke.

1. Remove the two tappet covers.

CC001D

NOTE: Keep the mounting hardware with the cov-

ers for assembly purposes or thread them back

into the head to keep them separated.

2. Remove the 12 cap screws securing the valve

cover to the head; account for the four rubber

washers on the top side cap screws. Remove the

valve cover. Account for and note the orientation

of the cylinder head plug. Note the location of two

alignment pins.

CD205

CD468

NOTE: Note that the opening of the head plug

must be directed to the 6 o’clock position.

3. Loosen the cap screw on the end of the tensioner;

then remove the two Allen-head cap screws secur-

ing the tensioner adjuster assembly and remove

the assembly. Account for a gasket.

CC009D

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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CC010D

CC011D

4. Using an awl, rotate the C-ring in its groove until

it is out of the cylinder head; then remove the

C-ring.

NOTE: Care should be taken not to drop the

C-ring down into the crankcase.

CC012D

5. Bend the washer tabs and remove the two cap

screws securing the sprocket to the camshaft; then

drop the sprocket off the camshaft. While holding

the chain, slide the sprocket and camshaft out of

the cylinder head.

CC013D

CC266D

NOTE: Loop the chain over the cylinder and

secure it to keep it from falling into the crankcase.

6. Remove the cap screw securing the chain ten-

sioner (account for a washer); then remove the ten-

sioner.

CC014D

7. Remove the five nuts securing the cylinder head to

the cylinder; then remove the four cylinder head

cap screws with copper washers (note location of

the different-sized cap screws and nuts).

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CC017D

CC018D

CC016D

8. Remove the cylinder head from the cylinder,

remove the gasket, and account for two alignment

pins.

CC020D

9. Remove the cam chain guide.

CC022D

C. Cylinder

D. Piston

NOTE: Steps 1-9 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

10. Loosen the clamp securing the coolant hose to the

union; then detach the hose.

11. Remove the two nuts securing the cylinder to the

crankcase.

CC023D

12. Lift the cylinder off the crankcase taking care not

to allow the piston to drop against the crankcase.

Account for the gasket and two alignment pins.

 AT THIS POINT

To service valves and cylinder head, see Servicing

Top-Side Components sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To inspect cam chain guide, see Servicing Top-Side

Components sub-section.

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CC024D

CC025D

CC026D

13. Using an awl, remove one piston-pin circlip.

CC032D

14. Using the Piston Pin Puller, remove the piston pin.

Account for the opposite-side circlip. Remove the

piston.

NOTE: It is advisable to remove the opposite-side

circlip prior to using the puller.

CC033D

NOTE: Support the connecting rod with rubber

bands to avoid damaging the rod or install the

Connecting Rod Holder.

NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced

with new rings, note the location of each ring for

proper installation. When replacing with new rings,

replace as a complete set only. If the piston rings

must be removed, remove them in this sequence.

A. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the

ring out of the ring-groove.

B. Remove each ring by working it toward the dome

of the piston while rotating it out of the groove.

 AT THIS POINT

To service cylinder, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

! CAUTION

When removing the cylinder, be sure to support the

piston to prevent damage to the crankcase and piston.

! CAUTION

Do not allow the connecting rod to go down inside the

crankcase. If the rod is down inside the crankcase and

the crankshaft is rotated, severe damage will result.

 AT THIS POINT

To service piston, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, pro-

ceed to Removing Left-Side Components.

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Servicing Top-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

VALVE ASSEMBLY

When servicing valve assembly, inspect valve seats,

valve stems, valve faces, and valve stem ends for pits,

burn marks, or other signs of abnormal wear.

NOTE: Whenever a valve is out of tolerance, it

must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Valve

Cover/Rocker Arms

NOTE: If the valve cover cannot be trued, the cyl-

inder head assembly must be replaced.

1. Wash the valve cover in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Place the valve cover on the Surface Plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the valve cover in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indica-

tion of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a

bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the valve

cover in a figure eight motion until a uniform

bright metallic finish is attained.

CC130D

Removing Valves

NOTE: Keep all valves and valve components as

a set. Note the original location of each valve set

for use during installation. Return each valve set

to its original location during installation.

1. Using a valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and remove the valve cotters.

Account for an upper spring retainer.

CC132D

2. Remove the valve seal and the lower remaining

spring seat. Discard the valve seal.

CC134D

CC136D

NOTE: The valve seals must be replaced.

3. Remove the valve springs; then invert the cylinder

head and remove the valves.

! CAUTION

Do not remove an excessive amount of the sealing

surface or damage to the camshaft will result. Always

check camshaft clearance when resurfacing the valve

cover.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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3-111

Measuring Valve Stem Runout

1. Support each valve stem end with the V Blocks;

then check the valve stem runout using a dial indi-

cator.

ATV-1082

2. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Stem Outside

Diameter

1. Using a micrometer, measure the valve stem out-

side diameter.

2. Acceptable diameter range (intake valve) must be

within specifications.

3. Acceptable diameter range (exhaust valve) must

be within specifications.

Measuring Valve Face/Seat Width

1. Using a micrometer, measure the width of the

valve face.

ATV-1004

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Valve Face Radial

Runout

1. Mount a dial indicator on the surface plate; then

place the valve stem on a set of V blocks.

2. Position the dial indicator contact point on the out-

side edge of the valve face; then zero the indicator.

ATV1082A

3. Rotate the valve in the V blocks.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide/Valve Stem

Deflection (Wobble Method)

1. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate; then place the cylinder head on the surface

plate.

2. Install the valve into the cylinder head; then posi-

tion the dial indicator contact point against the out-

side edge of the valve face. Zero the indicator.

CC131D

3. Push the valve from side to side; then from top to

bottom.

4. Maximum “wobble” deflection must not exceed

specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide

(Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge 1/2 way down into each valve

guide bore; then remove the gauge and measure it

with a micrometer.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

3. If a valve guide is out of tolerance, it must be

replaced.

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3-112

Servicing Valves/Valve

Guides/Valve Seats

If valves, valve guides, or valve seats require servicing

or replacement, Arctic Cat recommends that the com-

ponents be taken to a qualified machine shop for ser-

vicing.

Measuring Rocker Arm

(Inside Diameter)

1. Using a dial calipers, measure the inside diameter

of the rocker arm.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Measuring Rocker Arm Shaft

(Outside Diameter)

1. Using a micrometer, measure the outside diameter

of the rocker arm shaft.

2. Acceptable outside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Installing Valves

1. Apply grease to the inside surface of the valve

seals; then place a lower spring seat and valve

guide seal over each valve guide.

CC144D

2. Insert each valve into its original valve location.

3. Install the valve springs with the painted end of the

spring facing away from the cylinder head.

NOTE: If the paint is not visible, install the ends

of the springs with the closest wound coils toward

the head.

ATV-1011A

4. Place a spring retainer over the valve springs; then

using the valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and install the valve cotters.

CC132D

PISTON ASSEMBLY

NOTE: Whenever a piston, rings, or pin are out of

tolerance, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the dome of the piston.

2. Inspect the piston for cracks in the piston pin,

dome, and skirt areas.

3. Inspect the piston for seizure marks or scuffing.

Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and

water or honing oil.

NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep

to correct with the sandpaper, replace the piston.

4. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of

excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates

worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.

Removing Piston Rings

1. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the ring

out of the ring-groove.

! CAUTION

If valves are discolored or pitted or if the seating sur-

face is worn, the valve must be replaced. Do not

attempt to grind the valves or severe engine damage

may occur.

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3-113

CC400D

2. Remove each ring by working it toward the dome

of the piston while rotating it out of the groove.

NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced

with new ones, note the location of each ring for

proper installation. When installing new rings,

install as a complete set only.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston Rings

1. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;

then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle

and to a sharp edge.

2. Using the sharpened ring as a tool, clean carbon

from the ring-grooves. Be sure to position the ring

with its tapered side up.

Measuring Piston-Ring End Gap

(Installed)

1. Place each piston ring in the wear portion of the

cylinder. Use the piston to position each ring

squarely in the cylinder.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring

end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within

specifications.

CC280D

Measuring Piston Pin (Outside

Diameter) and Piston-Pin Bore

1. Measure the piston pin outside diameter at each

end and in the center. If measurement is not within

specifications, the piston pin must be replaced.

ATV-1070

2. Insert an inside dial indicator into the piston-pin

bore. The diameter must not exceed specifications.

Take two measurements to ensure accuracy.

ATV-1069

Measuring Piston Skirt/

Cylinder Clearance

1. Measure the cylinder front to back in six places.

2. Measure the corresponding piston diameter at a

point 15 mm above the piston skirt at a right angle

to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this measurement

from the measurement in step 1. The difference

(clearance) must be within specifications.

Installing Piston Rings

1. Install ring expander (4) in the bottom groove of

the piston; then install the thin oil rings (3) over

the expander making sure the expander ends do

not overlap. Stagger the end gaps of the upper and

lower thin oil rings according to the illustration.

NOTE: Note the direction of the exhaust side of

the piston (5) for correct ring end gap orientation.

! CAUTION

Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of

the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in

severe damage to the piston.

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3-114

ATV-1085B

2. Install the compression rings (1 and 2) so the letter

on the top surface of each ring faces the dome of

the piston. Rotate the rings until the ring end gaps

are on directly opposite sides of the piston (see

illustration).

NOTE: The chrome (silver) ring should be

installed in the top position.

726-306A

CYLINDER/CYLINDER HEAD

ASSEMBLY

NOTE: If the cylinder/cylinder head assembly

cannot be trued, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder Head

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the combustion chamber

being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the

combustion chamber or the sealing surface.

2. Inspect the spark plug hole for any damaged

threads. Repair damaged threads using a

“heli-coil” insert.

3. Place the cylinder head on the surface plate cov-

ered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using

light pressure, move the cylinder head in a figure

eight motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any

indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted

by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der head in a figure eight motion until a uniform

bright metallic finish is attained.

CC128D

Measuring Cylinder Head

Distortion

1. Remove any carbon buildup in the combustion

chamber.

2. Lay a straightedge across the cylinder head; then

using a feeler gauge, check the distortion factor

between the head and the straightedge.

3. Maximum distortion must not exceed specifica-

tions.

CC141D

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder

1. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

! CAUTION

Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in

engine damage.

! CAUTION

The cylinder head studs must be removed for this pro-

cedure.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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3-115

2. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

warpage, and corrosion. If marks are found, repair

the surface using a cylinder hone (see Honing Cyl-

inder in this sub-section).

3. Place the cylinder on the surface plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the cylinder in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indica-

tion of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a

bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright

metallic finish is attained.

CC129D

Inspecting Cam Chain Guide

1. Inspect cam chain guide for cuts, tears, breaks, or

chips.

2. If the chain guide is damaged, it must be replaced.

Honing Cylinder

1. Using a slide gauge and a dial indicator or a snap

gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter in three

locations from top to bottom and again from top to

bottom at 90° from the first measurements for a

total of six measurements. The trueness

(out-of-roundness) is the difference between the

highest and lowest reading. Maximum trueness

(out-of-roundness) must not exceed specifications.

CC127D

2. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

3. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-

face using a #320 grit ball hone.

NOTE: To produce the proper 60° cross-hatch

pattern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate

of 30 strokes per minute. If honing oil is not avail-

able, use a lightweight petroleum-based oil. Thor-

oughly clean cylinder after honing using soap and

hot water. Dry with compressed air; then immedi-

ately apply oil to the cylinder bore. If the bore is

severely damaged or gouged, replace the cylinder.

CC390D

4. If any measurement exceeds specifications,

replace the cylinder.

Measuring Camshaft Runout

NOTE: If the camshaft is out of tolerance, it must

be replaced.

1. Place the camshaft on a set of V blocks; then posi-

tion the dial indicator contact point against the

shaft and zero the indicator.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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3-116

CC283D

2. Rotate the camshaft and note runout; maximum

tolerance must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Camshaft Lobe Height

1. Using a calipers, measure each cam lobe height.

ATV1013A

2. The lobe heights must not exceed minimum speci-

fications.

Inspecting Camshaft Bearing

Journal

1. Inspect the bearing journal for scoring, seizure

marks, or pitting.

2. If excessive scoring, seizure marks, or pitting is

found, the cylinder head assembly must be

replaced.

Measuring Camshaft to

Cylinder Head Clearance

1. Remove the adjuster screws and jam nuts.

CC005D

2. Place a strip of plasti-gauge in each of the cam-

shaft lands in the cylinder head.

3. Place the valve cover on the cylinder head and

secure with the valve cover cap screws. Tighten

securely.

NOTE: Do not rotate the camshaft when measur-

ing clearance.

4. Remove the cap screws securing the valve cover to

the cylinder; then remove the valve cover and

camshaft.

CC003D

5. Match the width of the plasti-gauge with the chart

found on the plasti-gauge packaging to determine

camshaft to cylinder head and valve cover clear-

ance.

CC145D

6. If clearance is excessive, measure the journals of

the camshaft.

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3-117

CC287D

NOTE: If the journals are worn, replace the cam-

shaft; then measure the clearance again. If it is still

out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.

Inspecting Camshaft Automatic

Decompression Spring/Unloader

Assembly

1. Inspect the spring, weights, and unloader for dam-

age and freedom of movement.

CF061A

NOTE: With the weight extended, the unloader

flat should be even with the camshaft journal.

CF061

NOTE: When the weight is released, the spring

should return the assembly to the “unload” posi-

tion with the unloader extending above the cam-

shaft journal.

CF060A

2. If damaged, the camshaft must be replaced.

Installing Top-Side

Components

A. Piston

B. Cylinder

NOTE: If the piston rings were removed, install

them in this sequence.

A. Install ring expander (4) in the bottom groove

of the piston; then install the thin oil rings (3)

over the expander making sure the expander

ends do not overlap.

ATV-1085B

B. Stagger the end gaps of the upper and lower

thin oil rings according to the illustration.

NOTE: Note the direction of the exhaust side of

the piston (5) for correct ring end gap orientation.

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3-118

ATV-1024

C. Install the compression rings (1 and 2) so the

letter on the top surface of each ring faces the

dome of the piston. Rotate the rings until the

ring end gaps are on directly opposite sides of

the piston (see illustration).

NOTE: The chrome (silver) ring should be

installed in the top position.

1. Install the piston on the connecting rod making

sure there is a circlip on each side and the open

end of the circlip faces upwards.

NOTE: The piston should be installed so the

arrow points toward the exhaust.

CC032D

2. Place the two alignment pins into position. Place

the cylinder gasket into position; then place a pis-

ton holder (or suitable substitute) beneath the pis-

ton skirt and square the piston in respect to the

crankcase.

CC025D

3. Lubricate the inside wall of the cylinder; then

using a ring compressor or the fingers, compress

the rings and slide the cylinder over the piston.

Route the cam chain up through the cylinder cam

chain housing; then remove the piston holder and

seat the cylinder firmly on the crankcase.

CC024D

4. Loosely install the two nuts which secure the cyl-

inder to the crankcase.

NOTE: The two cylinder-to-crankcase nuts will be

tightened in step 10.

CC023D

5. Install the coolant hose onto the crankcase union

and tighten the clamp.

! CAUTION

Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in

engine damage.

! CAUTION

The cylinder should slide on easily. Do not force the

cylinder or damage to the piston, rings, cylinder, or

crankshaft assembly may occur.

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3-119

C. Cylinder Head/Camshaft

D. Valve Cover/Rocker Arms

NOTE: Steps 1-5 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

6. Place the chain guide into the cylinder.

CC022D

7. Place a new head gasket into position on the cylin-

der. Place the alignment pins into position; then

place the cylinder head into position on the cylin-

der.

CC020D

CF057A

8. Install the four cylinder head cap screws with cop-

per washers (note the locations of the differ-

ent-lengthed cap screws). Tighten only until snug.

CC272D

9. Loosely install the five cylinder head nuts.

CC018D

CC017D

10. In a crisscross pattern, tighten the four cylinder

head cap screws (from step 8) to 28 ft-lb; then

tighten the 8 mm nut (from step 9) to 18 ft-lb.

Using a crisscross pattern, tighten the four 6 mm

nuts (from step 9) to 8 ft-lb. Tighten the two cylin-

der-to- crankcase nuts (from step 4) securely.

11. With the timing inspection plug removed and the

chain held tight, rotate the crankshaft until the pis-

ton is at top-dead-center.

NOTE: At this point, oil the camshaft bearings,

cam lobes, and the three seating journals on the

cylinder.

12. With the alignment pin installed in the camshaft,

loosely place the cam sprocket (with the recessed

side facing the cam shaft lobes) onto the camshaft.

At this point, do not “seat” the sprocket onto the

shaft.

! CAUTION

Care should be taken that the bottom of the chain

guide is secured in the crankcase boss.

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3-120

732-307B

13. With the cam lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton), maneuver the camshaft/sprocket assembly

through the chain and towards its seating position;

then loop the chain over the sprocket.

CC015D

NOTE: Note the position of the alignment marks

on the end of the camshaft. They must be parallel

with the valve cover mating surface. If rotating the

camshaft is necessary for alignment, do not allow

the chain and sprocket to rotate and be sure the

cam lobes are in the down position.

CF030A

14. Seat the cam sprocket onto the camshaft making

sure the alignment pin in the camshaft aligns with

the smallest hole in the sprocket; then place the

camshaft/sprocket assembly onto the cylinder

ensuring the following.

CD463

A. Piston still at top-dead-center.

B. Camshaft lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton).

C. Camshaft alignment marks parallel to the valve

cover mating surface.

D. Recessed side of the sprocket directed toward

the cam lobes.

E. Camshaft alignment pin and sprocket alignment

hole (smallest) are aligned.

15. Place the tab-washer onto the sprocket making

sure it covers the pin in the alignment hole.

ATV-1027

! CAUTION

If any of the above factors are not as stated, go back to

step 11 and carefully proceed.

! CAUTION

Care must be taken that the tab-washer is installed

correctly to cover the alignment hole on the sprocket.

If the alignment pin falls out, severe engine damage

will result.

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3-121

CF013A

16. Install the first cap screw (threads coated with red

Loctite #271) securing the sprocket and

tab-washer to the camshaft. Tighten only until

snug.

CD464

17. Rotate the crankshaft until the second cap screw

securing the sprocket to the camshaft can be

installed; then install the cap screw (threads coated

with red Loctite #271) and tighten to 11 ft-lb.

Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

CD465

18. Rotate the crankshaft until the first cap screw

(from step 16) securing the sprocket to the cam-

shaft can be addressed; then tighten to 11 ft-lb.

Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

19. Place the C-ring into position in its groove in the

cylinder.

CC012D

20. Install the cylinder head plug in the cylinder head

with the opening of the plug directed downward

and toward the inside.

CD468

21. Place the cam chain tensioner guide into position

and secure with the cap screw and washer.

CC014D

22. Remove the cap screw from the end of the chain

tensioner; then using a flat-blade screwdriver,

rotate the adjuster screw inside the tensioner

clockwise until the screw bottoms.

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CD501

NOTE: The adjuster shaft will be drawn into the

tensioner as the adjuster screw is rotated clock-

wise. The adjuster shaft tension will be released in

step 24.

23. Place the chain tensioner adjuster assembly and

gasket into position on the cylinder and secure

with the two cap screws.

CD469

CC010D

24. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, rotate the adjuster

screw inside the tensioner counterclockwise until

all tension is released; then install the cap screw

into the end of the chain tensioner.

CD470

CD471

25. Loosen the four adjuster screw jam nuts; then

loosen the four adjuster screws on the rocker arms

in the valve cover.

26. Apply a thin coat of Three Bond Sealant to the

mating surfaces of the cylinder head and valve

cover.

CC275D

27. Place the valve cover into position.

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

28. Install the four top side valve cover cap screws

with rubber washers; then install the remaining

cap screws. Tighten only until snug.

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CC003D

29. In a crisscross pattern starting from the center and

working outward, tighten the cap screws (from

step 28) to 7 ft-lb.

30. Adjust valve/tappet clearance (see Section 2).

31. Place the two tappet covers into position making

sure the proper cap screws are with the proper

cover. Tighten the cap screws securely.

CC001D

32. If removed, install the spark plug and tighten

securely.

Left-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Left-Side

Components

A. Recoil Starter

B. Hi/Low Shifter Assembly

C. Speed Sensor Housing

D. Cover

1. Remove the cap screws securing the recoil starter

assembly to the left-side cover; then remove the

recoil starter.

CC039D

2. Remove the flange nut securing the starter cup to

the crankshaft; then remove the starter cup.

Account for the O-ring inside the cup.

CC041D

3. Put the shift lever into the hi-range position and

remove the snap ring from the hi/low range shift

shaft; then remove the shift lever.

NOTE: It will be necessary to lift slightly on the

shift lever to remove it from the shaft and plate.

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To service the recoil starter, see Servicing Left-Side

Components sub-section.

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3-124

CC044D

CC045D

4. Remove the inside snap ring.

CC046D

5. Remove the two cap screws securing the speed

sensor housing; then remove the housing. Account

for the gasket.

CD069

6. Remove the shift stop housing assembly from

beneath the shift shaft housing. Account for the

stopper and spring.

CC054D

7. Remove the cap screws securing the left-side

cover to the crankcase and note the location of the

long cap screw with rubber washer.

CC047D

CF037A

8. Using Side Case Puller, remove the side cover.

Account for a gasket, two alignment pins, and an

idle gear limiter bushing.

NOTE: Inspect the inside of the left-side cover for

the four shaft washers that may have come off with

the cover. The three gear shaft washers are identi-

cal and interchangeable. The shift shaft washer is

a larger diameter. Keep the washers with their

respective shafts for installing purposes.

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3-125

CD134A

E. Rotor/Flywheel

F. Idle Gear Assembly

NOTE: Steps 1-8 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.



NOTE: For steps 9-18, refer to illustration CD134B.

CD134B



NOTE: To aid in installing, it is recommended that

the assemblies are kept together and IN ORDER.

9. Remove the starter gear assembly (F) from the

crankcase; then remove the starter idler gear (G)

and spacer.

CD136

CD138

10. Remove the idle gear (C), washer, and spacer from

the countershaft.

CD141

11. Remove the #2 drive gear (B), washer, and the

select sliding dog gear from the driveshaft.

Account for a bushing and a washer.

12. Remove the shift fork shaft (D) from the crankcase

boss; then remove the shift fork from the shaft.

Remove the shift shaft assembly (E) from the

fixed shaft. Account for the left shaft washer.

CD146

KEY

A. Output Shaft with Driven Gear

B. Drive Gears #1 & #2

C. Idle Gear

D. Shift Fork with Shaft

E. Shift Shaft Assembly

F. Starter Gear Assembly

G. Starter Idler Gear

H. Starter Clutch Gear Assembly

I. Rotor/Flywheel

 AT THIS POINT

To service shift fork, see Servicing Left-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

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3-126

CD147

CD152

13. Remove the snap ring and washer from the drive-

shaft; then remove the #1 drive gear (B). Account

for a splined bushing and a spacer.

CC059D

CD154A

14. Remove the washer and driven gear (A) from the

output shaft; then account for the bushing.

CD149

CD150

15. Remove the Allen-head screws securing the gear

shift position switch; then remove the switch.

Account for an O-ring, two contacts, and two springs.

CD159

16. Remove the two cap screws securing the starter to

the crankcase; then remove the starter. Account for

the wiring forms.

CC065D

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3-127

17. Remove the nut securing the rotor/flywheel (I) to

the crankshaft; then install the magneto rotor

remover adapter.

CD562

CD549

18. Using Magneto Rotor Remover Set, remove the

rotor/flywheel assembly from the crankshaft.

Account for the key; then remove the starter clutch

gear assembly (H) and thrust washer.

CD550

CD155

Servicing Left-Side

Components

RECOIL STARTER

Disassembling

1. Rotate the reel counterclockwise until the notch of

the reel is near the rope guide in the case. Guide

the rope into the notch and slowly allow the reel to

retract until all spiral spring tension is released.

B600D

2. Remove the nut.

 AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, pro-

ceed to Removing Right-Side Components.

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when servicing the recoil

starter.

! WARNING

During the disassembly procedure, continuous down-

ward pressure must be exerted on the reel so it does

not accidentally disengage and cause injury.

! CAUTION

During the disassembly procedure, make sure all

spring tension is released before continuing.

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B601D

3. Slowly release the friction plate and lift the plate

with ratchet guide free of the recoil case; then

remove the ratchet guide from the friction plate.

B602D

4. Remove the spring cover, spring, and shaft; then

remove the ratchet and account for the pin.

B603D

B604D

5. Carefully lift the reel from the case making sure

the spring does not accidentally disengage from

the case.

B605D

6. Remove the protective cover from the starter han-

dle and pull the rope out of the handle; then untie

the knot in the rope and remove the handle.

NOTE: Do not remove the spiral spring unless

replacement is necessary. If replacement is neces-

sary, follow steps 7-8.

7. Remove the spiral spring from the case by lifting

the spring end up and out. Hold the remainder of

the spring with thumbs and alternately release

each thumb to allow the spring to gradually release

from the case.

8. Unwind the rope from the reel and remove the

rope.

Cleaning and Inspecting

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all components.

2. Inspect the springs and ratchet for wear or dam-

age.

3. Inspect the reel and case for cracks or damage.

4. Inspect the shaft for wear, cracks, or damage.

5. Inspect the rope for breaks or fraying.

6. Inspect the spiral spring for cracks, crystallization,

or abnormal bends.

7. Inspect the handle for damage, cracks, or deterio-

ration.

! WARNING

Care must be taken when lifting the recoil free of the

case. Wear safety glasses to avoid injury.

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3-129

Assembling

1. If removed, insert the spiral spring into the case

with the outer end of the spring around the mount-

ing lug in the case; then wind it in a counterclock-

wise direction until the complete spring is

installed.

NOTE: The spiral spring must seat evenly in the

recoil case.

B606D

2. Insert the rope through the hole in the reel and tie a

knot in the end; then wrap the rope counter- clock-

wise around the reel leaving approximately 50 cm

(20 in.) of rope free of the reel.

3. Apply low-temperature grease to the spring and

hub.

4. Thread the end of the rope through the guide hole

of the case; then thread the rope through the han-

dle and secure it with a double knot. Install the

protective cover into the handle.

5. Align the inner hook of the spiral spring with the

notch in the reel.

B605D

6. Install the ratchet onto its spring making sure the

end is properly installed on the reel.

7. Install the shaft, spring, and the spring cover; then

install the friction plate with the ratchet guide fit-

ting into the ratchet.

8. While pushing down on the reel, install the nut.

Tighten securely.

B601D

9. With the 50 cm (20 in.) of rope exposed, hook the

rope in the notch of the reel.

10. Rotate the reel four turns counterclockwise; then

release the rope from the notch and allow the rope

to retract.

11. Pull the rope out two or three times to check for

correct tension.

NOTE: Increasing the rotations in step 10 will

increase spring tension.

MEASURING SHIFT FORK

(Thickness)

NOTE: Whenever a shift fork is out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

1. Using a calipers, in turn measure the thickness of

the machined tip of each shift fork.

CC296D

2. Shift fork thickness must be within specifications.

MEASURING SHIFT FORK GROOVE

(Width)

1. Using a calipers, in turn measure the width of each

shift fork groove.

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CC288D

2. Shift fork groove width must be within specifica-

tions.

MEASURING SHIFT FORK TO

GROOVE (Side Clearance)

1. In turn, insert each shift fork into its groove.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance

between the shift fork and the groove.

CC292D

3. Shift fork to groove side clearance must be within

specifications.

Installing Left-Side

Components

A. Idle Gear Assembly

B. Magneto Rotor

1. Place the starter into position on the crankcase and

secure with the cap screws. Note the position of

the wiring form.

CC065D

2. Place the gear shift position switch into position

making sure the contacts and springs are inside the

case and a well-oiled O-ring is properly posi-

tioned. Secure with Phillips-head screws.

CC049D

CC048D

3. Install the starter idle gear pin into the crankcase;

then with the beveled side of the idle gear facing

the crankcase, install the idle gear and spacer.

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CD138

4. Place the bushing onto the output shaft; then

install the driven gear and washer.

CC063D

5. Install the spacer onto the driveshaft.

CC258D

6. Place the splined bushing onto the driveshaft mak-

ing sure the oil hole of the splined bushing aligns

with the oil hole of the driveshaft.

CF038A

7. In turn on the driveshaft, install the #1 drive gear

and washer; then secure with the snap ring.

CC059D

8. Place the select sliding dog gear and washer onto

the driveshaft; then place the #2 drive gear onto

the driveshaft making sure the bushing and washer

follow on the driveshaft.

CC061D

9. Place the idle gear spacer and idle gear onto the

countershaft.

! CAUTION

It is important that the oil holes in the splined bushing

and driveshaft align. If they are not aligned, major

damage will occur from lack of lubrication.

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CC262D

CC060D

10. Place a washer on the driveshaft, the countershaft,

and the driven shaft.

CF075A

11. With the slot in the shift shaft assembly facing

upward, place the assembly on the fixed shaft.

CD147

12. Place the left shaft washer on the shift shaft.

CC333D

13. With the shift fork peg positioned in the shift shaft

assembly slot, install the shift fork in the select

sliding dog gear.

CC329D

14. Slide the shift fork shaft through the shift fork and

into the crankcase boss.

CC330D

15. Insert the pin into the starter gear assembly boss in

the crankcase; then install starter idler gear #1.

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CD136

16. Place a washer on each end of the starter gear

assembly and install in the crankcase.

17. Place a thrust washer onto the crankshaft; then

install the starter clutch gear assembly onto the

crankshaft. Place the key into its notch.

CD155

18. Place the rotor/flywheel into position on the crank-

shaft; then install the nut on the crankshaft and

tighten until the rotor/flywheel is properly seated.

Tighten to 116 ft-lb.

CD444

19. Install the two alignment pins into the left crank-

case half.

NOTE: Make sure that four washers, one bush-

ing, and two alignment pins are in place.

CD134A

C. Cover

D. Speed Sensor Housing

E. Hi/Low Shifter Assembly

F. Recoil Starter

NOTE: Steps 1-19 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

20. Place the gasket and left-side cover into position

on the crankcase.

NOTE: It may be necessary to push or pull the

splined Hi/Low range shift shaft to establish

cover/crankcase mating.

21. Install the cap screws to secure the left-side cover.

Do not tighten at this time. Note the location of the

long cap screw with rubber washer.

CF037A

22. Place the starter cup into position on the crank-

shaft making sure a new, lubricated O-ring is

inside the cup. Tighten the flange nut to 25 ft-lb.

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CC041D

23. In a crisscross pattern, tighten the cap screws

(from step 21) to 8 ft-lb.

CC047D

24. Place the shift stop housing assembly into position

beneath the shift shaft housing making sure the

spring and stopper are correctly positioned.

Tighten to securely.

CC054D

25. Place the speed sensor housing and gasket into

position and secure with the two cap screws.

Tighten securely.

CD069

26. Install the inside snap ring onto the hi/low range

shift shaft with the sharp side of the snap ring fac-

ing the engine; then place the shift lever assembly

part way onto the shaft.

NOTE: Position the shift lever part way onto the

splines and verify the subtransmission is in hi

range. If not, shift into hi range.

CC045D

27. Pull up on the hi/low shift T-handle and guide the

T-handle stop pin into the hi range lever stop plate

slot; then slide the shift lever assembly the rest of

the way onto the shift shaft. Secure with the outer

snap ring making sure the sharp side of the snap

ring faces away from the hi/low-range lever.

CC044D

28. Place the recoil starter assembly into position on

the left-side cover; then tighten four cap screws to

6 ft-lb.

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CC039D

Right-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Right-Side

Components

A. Oil Filter

B. Water Pump

1. Remove the clamp securing the coolant hose to the

water pump; then remove the hose.

2. Using the adjustable Oil Filter Wrench, remove

the oil filter.

3. Remove the three cap screws securing the water

pump cover to the right-side cover; then remove

the water pump cover. Account for the O-ring.

CC027D

CF066A

4. Remove the cap screw securing the impeller to the

impeller shaft; then remove the impeller. Account

for the rubber retainer and porcelain seal.

CC029D

CD163A

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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5. Remove the cap screws securing the right-side

cover to the crankcase. Remove the cover. Note

the location of the long cap screw and rubber

washer. Account for the gasket and for two align-

ment pins.

CC034D

NOTE: The water pump housing does not have to

be removed when removing the right-side cover.

CD164A

NOTE: When removing the right-side cover,

account for the release roller guide that it does not

fall and cause damage.

CC070D

6. Remove the water pump drive joint from the water

pump shaft. Account for the pin.

CD168A

C. Primary Drive Clutch Shoe

D. Primary Driven Clutch

E. Primary Drive Clutch Housing

NOTE: Steps 1-6 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

7. Remove the reverse cam stopper housing and gas-

ket and account for a stopper and spring.

CC069D

8. Remove the clutch release arm and washer; then in

a crisscross pattern, remove the four cap screws

securing the clutch release roller assembly.

CD171

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CC074D

9. Remove the release plate. Account for four

springs.

10. Remove the primary drive clutch-shoe nut

(left-hand threads) and washer from the driveshaft;

then using a primary clutch shoe remover, remove

the clutch shoe.

CC072D

11. Remove the primary drive one-way clutch from

the primary drive clutch housing. Note the word

OUTSIDE stamped on the clutch for installing

purposes.

CF043

12. Using the Clutch Sleeve Hub Holder to hold the

clutch sleeve hub, remove the nut and washer.

CC076D

13. Scribe a line across the primary driven clutch

assembly to aid in assembling.

CC077D

14. Simultaneously, remove the primary driven clutch

assembly and primary drive clutch housing from

their respective shafts. Account for the sleeve and

washers.

CC078D

F. Gear Shift Cam Plate/Guide

G. Oil Pump/Oil Strainer

NOTE: Steps 1-14 in the preceding sub-sections

must precede this procedure.

15. Remove the cam chain from the crankcase.

! CAUTION

Care must be taken when removing the nut; it has

“left-hand” threads.

 AT THIS POINT

To service clutch components, see Servicing

Right-Side Components sub-section.

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3-138

16. Remove the nut and washer securing the oil pump

drive gear to the crank balancer shaft; then remove

the gear and account for the pin and the spacer.

CC080D

CF070A

17. Remove the gear shift shaft from the crankcase.

CC085D

18. Release the tension from the gear shift cam stop-

per arm spring.

CC086D

19. Remove the cap screw securing the gear shift cam

plate and guide to the gear shift cam; then remove

the cam plate and guide.

CC164D

NOTE: For general servicing, it is advisable to

disassemble, clean, and inspect the oil pump. If

any wear or damage is suspected, replace the oil

pump.

20. Remove the snap ring securing the oil pump

driven gear; then remove the gear. Account for the

pin and the washer.

CC088D

CC089D

21. Remove the three Phillips-head screws securing

the oil pump; then remove the oil pump.

! CAUTION

If servicing of the engine/transmission is due to a

lubrication-related problem, replace the oil pump.

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3-139

NOTE: It may be necessary to use an impact

driver to loosen the screws.

CD190

22. Remove the cap screws securing the oil strainer

cap; then remove the cap. Account for the O-ring.

CC091D

23. Remove the two Phillips-head cap screws securing

the strainer.

CC163D

Servicing Right-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

PRIMARY CLUTCH ASSEMBLY

(Inspecting/Measuring/

Assembling)

NOTE: Prior to inspecting and measuring compo-

nents, it is recommended that all components be

removed from the primary gear assembly and be

cleaned.

NOTE: When removing components from the pri-

mary gear assembly, account for the bushing that

fits into the primary gear.

CC239D

Inspecting/Measuring Clutch

Driven Plate Warpage

1. Inspect each driven plate for warpage and burn

marks.

2. In turn place each driven plate on the surface plate;

then using a feeler gauge, measure warpage in sev-

eral locations.

CC245D

 AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, pro-

ceed to Separating Crankcase Halves.

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3-140

3. Maximum driven plate warpage must not exceed

specifications.

Measuring Clutch Drive Plate

(Fiber) Thickness

1. Using a calipers, in turn measure the thickness of

each drive plate in several locations.

CC243D

2. Drive plate thickness must be within minimum

specifications.

3. If the fiber plate tabs are damaged, the plate must

be replaced.

4. Inspect the clutch sleeve hub for grooves or

notches. If grooves or notches are present, replace

the hub.

Inspecting Centrifugal Clutch Shoe

1. Inspect the clutch shoe for uneven wear, chips,

cracks, or discoloration.

2. Inspect the depth of the grooves in the clutch

shoes. If any shoe is worn to the bottom of the

groove, replace the complete set.

ATV1014

Inspecting Centrifugal Clutch

Housing

1. Inspect the clutch housing for burns, marks, scuffs,

cracks, scratches, or uneven wear.

2. If the housing is damaged in any way, the housing

must be replaced.

Inspecting Primary One-Way Drive

1. Insert the drive into the centrifugal clutch housing.

2. Rotate the inner race by hand and verify the inner

race rotates only one direction.

3. If the inner race is locked in place or rotates both

directions, the drive assembly must be replaced.

Assembling Primary Clutch

1. Place the clutch hub upside down into the primary

gear assembly.

CC920

2. Alternately install the drive plates and driven

plates onto the hub (starting with and ending with

a drive plate) making sure the tabs with the

notches are all in line with each other.

CF044A

NOTE: When installing the driven plates for ease

of installation, make sure they are placed onto the

hub with the rounded side of the plates directed

down.

! CAUTION

Always replace clutch shoes as a complete set or

severe imbalance could occur.

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CF045A

3. Install the pressure plate onto the hub making sure

the alignment dots are correctly positioned.

CF047A

4. Place the primary gear assembly w/clutch hub

assembly in one hand, place the other hand on top

of the clutch hub assembly, and flip the assembly

over; then lift the primary gear assembly off the

clutch hub assembly being careful not to disturb

the drive plate notched tab orientation.

CC924

5. Place the primary gear assembly on a clean, flat

surface; then install the primary washer into the

assembly.

CC239D

6. Place the clutch hub assembly into the primary

gear assembly.

CC926

NOTE: The primary clutch assembly is now com-

pletely assembled for installation.

INSPECTING OIL PUMP

1. Inspect the pump for damage.

2. It is inadvisable to remove the screw securing the

pump halves. If the oil pump is damaged, it must

be replaced.

CD989A

! CAUTION

The clutch hub and the pressure plate must be seated

in the proper position. If any of the incorrect positions

are used, the hub and plate will have clearance

between them and they will not operate properly.

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Installing Right-Side

Components

A. Oil Strainer/Oil Pump

B. Gear Shift Shaft

1. Place the oil strainer into position beneath the

crankcase and tighten securely with the Phil-

lips-head cap screws.

CC163D

2. Place the strainer cap into position on the strainer

making sure a new O-ring is properly installed and

secure with the cap screws; then install and tighten

the oil drain plug to 16 ft-lb.

CC091D

3. Place the oil pump into position in the crankcase

and secure with the three Phillips-head screws

coated with blue Loctite #243. Tighten to 7 ft-lb.

CC090D

4. Place the pin and washer into position on the oil

pump shaft, install the oil pump driven gear, and

secure with the snap ring.

CC088D

5. Place the gear shift cam plate and guide onto the

gear shift cam making sure the alignment pin was

installed. Secure assembly with the cap screw

coated with blue Loctite #243. Tighten securely.

CF073A

CC164D

6. Attach the spring to the gear shift cam stopper

arm.

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3-143

CC086D

CF072A

7. Install the gear shift shaft.

CC085D

C. Primary Driven Gear

D. Primary Driven Clutch

E. Primary Drive Clutch Shoe

NOTE: Steps 1-7 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

8. Install the spacer, pin, and oil pump drive gear

onto the crank balancer shaft making sure the

shoulder of the drive gear is facing inward toward

the crankcase; then secure with the washer and nut

tightened to 58 ft-lb.

CF070A

CD481

9. Place the chain into the crankcase; then secure it

from the top side with a wire for ease of assem-

bling.

CC079D

10. Install the primary driven washers onto the drive-

shaft and crankshaft.

CD198B

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11. Simultaneously, place the primary clutch assembly

and the starter clutch housing on their respective

shafts making sure the sleeve is properly posi-

tioned in the primary assembly.

CC078D

NOTE: Note the alignment mark scribed on the

primary driven gear assembly during disassembly.

12. Using the Clutch Sleeve Hub Holder, install the

nut and washer. Tighten to 72 ft-lb.

CD479

13. Place the primary drive one-way clutch into the

starter clutch housing noting the word OUTSIDE

for proper placement.

CF043

14. Install the clutch shoe and washer; then secure

with the starter clutch shoe nut (left-hand threads).

Tighten to 94 ft-lb; then using a center punch,

stake the nut.

CD482

15. Install the release roller assembly making sure the

four springs are in position; then using a crisscross

pattern, tighten the four cap screws securely.

NOTE: Tighten the four roller assembly cap

screws in a crisscross pattern making sure there

is no clearance between the clutch plates when

secured.

CC074D

16. Install the clutch release arm and release roller

guide making sure the release roller and guide are

aligned.

CD166A

17. Secure the clutch release arm with the cap screw

coated with blue Loctite #243. Tighten securely.

! CAUTION

The clutch sleeve hub and the pressure plate must be

seated in the proper position. If any of the incorrect

positions are used, the hub and plate will have clear-

ance between them and they will not operate properly.

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CC073D

18. Install the reverse cam stopper housing and gasket

making sure the stopper and spring are correctly

positioned. Tighten to 16 ft-lb.

CD494

F. Water Pump

G. Oil Filter

NOTE: Steps 1-18 of the preceding sub-sections

must precede this procedure.

NOTE: Lubricate all internal components with

5W-30 oil prior to installing the right-side cover.

19. Place the water pump drive joint into position on

the water pump shaft making sure the pin is prop-

erly positioned.

CF067

NOTE: Care should be taken that the alignment

pins are installed in the right-side cover.

20. Place the gasket and right-side cover into position

making sure the release roller guide remains cor-

rectly positioned and that the water pump drive

adapter aligns; then install the fifteen cap screws.

Note the proper location of the long cap screw

with rubber washer.

CF039A

21. Tighten the cap screws in a crisscross pattern to 8

ft-lb.

22. Place the water pump cover onto the right-side

cover making sure the new O-ring is properly

positioned. Tighten securely with the three cap

screws.

CD910A

CC027D

23. Using the oil filter wrench, install a new oil filter.

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CC067D

24. Install the coolant hose on the water pump and

secure with the clamp.

Center Crankcase

Components

NOTE: This procedure cannot be done with the

engine/transmission in the frame. Complete

Removing procedures for Top-Side, Left-Side, and

Right-Side must precede this procedure.

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

Separating Crankcase

Halves

1. Remove the right-side 6 mm cap screws (one from

inside the case) securing the crankcase halves.

Note the location of the different-lengthed cap

screws.

CC530D

2. Remove the left-side 6 mm cap screws securing

the crankcase halves. Note the location of the wir-

ing form. Note the location of the differ-

ent-lengthed cap screws.

CC096D

3. Remove the left-side 8 mm cap screws (two from

inside the case) securing the crankcase halves.

Note the location of the different-lengthed cap

screws.

CC097D

4. Remove the right-side 8 mm cap screws securing

the crankcase halves.

CC098D

5. Using the Crankcase Separator/Crankshaft

Remover and tapping lightly with a rubber mallet,

separate the crankcase halves. Account for two

alignment pins, an O-ring, and a washer.

NOTE: To keep the shaft/gear assemblies intact

for identification, tap the shafts toward the

left-side crankcase half when separating the

halves.

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CC099D

CD227

CF078A

CC102D

Disassembling

Crankcase Half

NOTE: For steps 1-10, refer to illustration

CC803C.

NOTE: To aid in assembling, it is recommended

that the assemblies are kept together and IN

ORDER.

CC803C

1. Remove the two shift shafts (E and H).

2. Remove the reverse shift cam (G) and spacer.

3. Disengage four forks from the gear shift cam (F);

then remove the reverse shifter fork.

CC105D

4. Remove the gear shift cam (F).

KEY

A. Crank Balancer Assembly

B. Crankshaft

C. Balancer Drive Gear with Pin

D. Countershaft Assembly

E. Shift Shaft with Fork

F. Gear Shift Cam

G. Reverse Shift Cam

H. Shift Shaft with Three Forks

I. Driveshaft Assembly

J. Output Shaft

K. Reverse Idle Gear

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CC106D

5. Remove the three remaining forks noting their

positions for assembling purposes.

6. Remove the reverse idle gear (K) w/shaft. Account

for the bushing, two washers, and the snap ring.

7. Simultaneously, remove the driveshaft assembly

(I) and countershaft assembly (D). Account for the

washer on the countershaft.

NOTE: For efficiency, if the driveshaft and/or

countershaft are not being serviced, it is prefera-

ble to leave them assembled. The technician

should use discretion and sound judgment.

8. Remove the front output shaft (J) and rear shaft

assemblies. Account for the bearing C-ring.

NOTE: Note the alignment marks on the crank

balancer driven gear and balancer drive gear to aid

in assembly.

CD826

9. Remove the driven gear from the crank balancer

assembly (A). Account for a key.

CD832

10. Remove the crank balancer assembly (A).

CD832B

NOTE: There is a flat spot on the crank balancer

to allow clearance past the crankshaft.

11. Using the Crankcase Separator/Crankshaft

Remover, push the crankshaft assembly out of the

crankcase.

CC115D

 AT THIS POINT

To service gear shift forks, see Servicing Center

Crankcase Components sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To service the driveshaft and/or countershaft, see Ser-

vicing Center Crankcase Components sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To service crankshaft assembly, see Servicing Center

Crankcase Components sub-section.

! CAUTION

Do not remove the remaining output shaft assembly

unless absolutely necessary. If the shaft is removed,

the shaft nut must be replaced with a new one and the

shaft must be re-shimmed.

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3-149

12. To remove the output shaft and gear, remove the

nut, slide the gear off the shaft (account for a shim

or shims), and drive the shaft out with a plastic

mallet (account for a shim or shims).

CC482D

Servicing Center

Crankcase Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

SECONDARY GEARS

NOTE: When checking and correcting secondary

gear backlash and tooth contact, the universal

joint must be secured to the front shaft or false

measurements will occur.

Checking Backlash

NOTE: The rear shaft and bevel gear must be

removed for this procedure. Also, always start with

the original shims on the rear shaft.

1. Place the left-side crankcase cover onto the

left-side crankcase half to prevent runout of the

secondary transmission output shaft.

2. Install the secondary driven output shaft assembly

onto the crankcase.

3. Mount the indicator tip of the dial indicator on the

secondary driven bevel gear.

4. While rocking the driven bevel gear back and

forth, note the maximum backlash reading on the

gauge.

5. Acceptable backlash range is 0.05-0.33 mm

(0.002-0.013 in.).

Correcting Backlash

NOTE: If backlash measurement is within the

acceptable range, no correction is necessary.

1. If backlash measurement is less than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

new thinner shim.

2. If backlash measurement is more than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

thicker shim.

NOTE: Continue to remove, measure, and install

until backlash measurement is within tolerance.

Note the following chart.

Checking Tooth Contact

NOTE: After correcting backlash of the second-

ary driven bevel gear, it is necessary to check

tooth contact.

1. Remove the secondary driven output shaft assem-

bly from the left-side crankcase half.

2. Clean the secondary driven bevel gear teeth of old

oil and grease residue.

3. Apply a thin, even coat of a machinist-layout dye

to several teeth of the gear.

4. Install the secondary driven output shaft assembly.

5. Rotate the secondary driven bevel gear several

revolutions in both directions.

6. Examine the tooth contact pattern in the dye and

compare the pattern to the illustrations.

ATV-0103

Backlash Measurement Shim Correction

Under 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) Decrease Shim Thickness

At 0.05-0.33 mm (0.002-0.013 in.) No Correction Required

Over 0.33 mm (0.013 in.) Increase Shim Thickness

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3-150

ATV-0105

ATV-0104

Correcting Tooth Contact

NOTE: If tooth contact pattern is comparable to

the correct pattern illustration, no correction is

necessary.

If tooth contact pattern is comparable to an incorrect

pattern, correct tooth contact according to the follow-

ing chart.

NOTE: To correct tooth contact, steps 1 and 2

(with NOTE) of “Correcting Backlash” must be fol-

lowed and the above “Tooth Contact/Shim Correc-

tion” chart must be consulted.

CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge into the upper connecting rod

small end bore; then remove the gauge and mea-

sure it with micrometer.

CC290D

2. Maximum diameter must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Deflection)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks and

mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against

the center of the connecting rod small end journal.

2. Zero the indicator and push the small end of the

connecting rod away from the dial indicator.

3. Maximum deflection must not exceed specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Side-to-Side)

1. Push the lower end of the connecting rod to one

side of the crankshaft journal.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the

connecting rod and crankshaft journal.

CC289D

3. Acceptable gap range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Width)

1. Using a calipers, measure the width of the

connecting rod at the big-end bearing.

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

Tooth Contact Shim Correction

Contacts at Top Decrease Shim Thickness

Contacts at Root Increase Shim Thickness

! CAUTION

After correcting tooth contact, backlash must again be

checked and corrected (if necessary). Continue the

correcting backlash/correcting tooth contact proce-

dures until they are both within tolerance values.

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Measuring Crankshaft (Runout)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact at point 1 of

the crankshaft.

ATV-1074

3. Zero the indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

NOTE: Proceed to check runout on the other end

of the crankshaft by positioning the indicator con-

tact at point 2 and following steps 3-4.

Measuring Crankshaft

(Web-to-Web)

1. Using a calipers, measure the distance from the

outside edge of one web to the outside edge of the

other web.

ATV-1017

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

DRIVESHAFT

Disassembling

1. In order, remove the reverse dog, snap ring,

washer, reverse driven gear, and bushing from the

driveshaft.

CC228D

CC227D

CC226D

CC225D

! CAUTION

Care should be taken to support the connecting

rod when rotating the crankshaft.

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CC224D

NOTE: The teeth on the bushing must face the

1st driven gear.

2. Remove the 1st driven washer (right side); then

remove the 1st driven gear from the driveshaft.

CC223D

CC222D

3. Remove the 1st driven bushing; then remove the

1st driven washer (left side) from the shoulder of

the splined shaft. Remove the 4th driven snap ring.

CC221D

CC220D

CC508D

4. Remove the 4th driven gear from the driveshaft.

Note the four small dogs facing toward the 3rd

driven gear for assembling purposes.

CC219D

5. Remove the 3rd driven snap ring; then remove the

3rd driven lock washer (right side) from the drive-

shaft.

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CC216D

CC215D

6. Remove the 3rd driven gear from the driveshaft.

CC214D

7. Remove the 3rd driven bushing from the drive-

shaft. Note the location of the oil feed hole in the

bushing and the matching oil supply hole in the

driveshaft for assembling purposes.

CD248

8. Remove the 3rd driven lock washer (right side)

from the driveshaft. Note the tabs facing toward

the 5th driven gear for assembling purposes.

CD247A

9. Remove the next 3rd driven lock washer (left side)

by rotating it out of the groove. Note the groove

closest to the 5th driven gear for assembling pur-

poses.

CC211D

10. Remove the 5th driven gear from the driveshaft.

CC210D

11. In order, remove the 2nd driven snap ring, washer,

gear, and bushing from the driveshaft.

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CC209D

CC208D

CC207D

CC206D

Assembling

1. In order, install the 2nd driven bushing, gear,

washer, and snap ring onto the driveshaft.

CC206D

CC207D

CC208D

CC209D

2. Install the 5th driven gear onto the driveshaft.

 AT THIS POINT

To service secondary gears, see Servicing Center

Crankcase Components in this sub-section.

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CC210D

3. Install the 3rd driven lock washer (left side). Lock

it into the groove closest to the 5th driven gear (as

noted in disassembling) by rotating it when it is in

the groove.

CC211D

4. Install the next 3rd driven lock washer (left side)

onto the driveshaft making sure the tabs are facing

toward the 5th driven gear. Make sure the tabs

interlock with the 3rd driven lock washer.

CD247A

5. Install the 3rd driven bushing onto the driveshaft

making sure the oil feed hole in the bushing aligns

with the appropriate oil supply hole in the drive-

shaft (as noted in disassembling).

CD248

6. In order, install the 3rd driven gear, lock washer

(right side), and snap ring onto the driveshaft.

CC214D

CC215D

! CAUTION

It is very important to assure the oil feed hole in the

bushing and oil supply hole in the driveshaft align. If

not aligned, engine damage will result.

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CC216D

7. Install the 4th driven gear onto the driveshaft mak-

ing sure the four small dogs are facing toward the

3rd driven gear as noted in disassembling; then

secure with the snap ring.

CC219D

CC508D

8. Install the 1st driven washer (left side) onto the

shoulder of the splined shaft; then install the 1st

driven bushing and gear.

CC220D

CC221D

CC222D

9. Install the 1st driven washer (right side) on the

shaft making sure it lines up with the groove in the

shaft; then turn the washer locking it on the shaft.

CC223D

10. Slide the reverse driven gear bushing onto the

shaft making sure the oil port in the bushing aligns

with the oil port on the shaft.

CC842

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11. Move the washer in the shaft groove until the

notches in the washer align with the tabs on the

bushing; then slide the bushing up tight against the

washer.

CC843

12. In order, install the reverse driven gear, washer,

snap ring, and reverse dog onto the driveshaft.

CC225D

CC226D

CC227D

CC228D

NOTE: The driveshaft is now completely assem-

bled for installation.

COUNTERSHAFT

Disassembling

1. Remove the 2nd drive gear and washer from the

countershaft.

CD242

2. Remove the 5th drive gear from the countershaft.

! CAUTION

Failure to align the oil ports will result in serious

engine damage.

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CC203D

3. Remove the 5th drive washer and 5th drive snap

ring from the countershaft.

CC201D

CC200D

4. Remove the 3rd drive gear from the countershaft.

5. Remove the 4th drive snap ring securing the 4th

drive gear on the countershaft; then remove the

first 4th drive washer and 4th drive gear. Account

for the bushing.

CC199D

6. Remove the other 4th drive washer from the coun-

tershaft.

Assembling

1. Install the 4th drive washer onto the countershaft.

2. Install the 4th drive gear making sure the bushing

is in position; then install the other 4th drive

washer onto the countershaft. Secure with the snap

ring.

CC199D

3. Install the 3rd drive gear; then install the 5th drive

snap ring onto the countershaft.

CC200D

4. Install the 5th drive washer and 5th drive gear onto

the countershaft.

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CC201D

5. Install the 2nd drive gear and washer onto the

countershaft.

CD242

NOTE: The countershaft is now completely

assembled for installation.

Assembling

Crankcase Half

NOTE: For ease of assembly, install components

on the left-side crankcase half.

NOTE: If the output shaft and gear were removed,

make sure that the proper shim is installed.

1. To install the output shaft and gear, place the shaft

into position with proper shims, slide the gear onto

the shaft, and secure with a new nut tightened to

72 ft-lb.

CC117D

CC116D

2. Apply a liberal amount of engine oil to the crank-

shaft bearing. Using a propane torch, heat the

bearing until the oil begins to smoke; then slide the

crankshaft assembly into place.

CC688

CC689

NOTE: If heating the bearing is not possible, the

crankshaft can be installed using a crankshaft

installing tool.

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3. Install the crank balancer.

NOTE: It will be necessary to rotate the crank bal-

ancer until the counterweight is directed away

from the crankshaft; then rotate the crankshaft

clockwise into the journal area to allow the bal-

ancer to be fully seated.

CD832A

4. With the key in position, slide the driven gear onto

the crank balancer making sure the timing marks

are aligned.

CD826

5. Place the bearing C-ring into position in the crank-

case; then install the front output shaft and rear

shaft assemblies.

CD268A

6. Simultaneously, install the driveshaft and counter-

shaft assemblies making sure the washer is on the

countershaft.

CD232A

7. Install the reverse idle shaft with snap ring making

sure the oil hole in the shaft is facing downward;

then install a washer, bushing, reverse idle gear,

and a washer.

CF055

CC231D

8. Place each of the four shift forks into its respective

gear or dog as noted during disassembling; then

install the gear shift cam.

! CAUTION

The bearing pins must be positioned into the crank-

case correctly or damage to the crankcase may occur.

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CC107D

CC106D

9. Engage the four forks to the gear shift cam; then

install the reverse shift cam and spacer.

CC105D

CC103D

10. Install the two gear shift shafts; then verify that the

two crankcase half alignment pins are in place.

CC104D

NOTE: Prior to joining crankcase halves, turn the

shift cam to ensure all gears shift properly.

Joining Crankcase

Halves

1. Place the O-ring in the left-side crankcase half and

verify that the washer is on the idler shaft; then

apply Three Bond Sealant to the mating surfaces.

Place the right-side half onto the left-side half.

CC234DA

2. Using a plastic mallet, lightly tap the case halves

together until cap screws can be installed.

3. From the left side, install the three case half 8 mm

cap screws (two inside the case); then tighten only

until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

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CC098D

4. From the right side, install the case half 8 mm cap

screws; then tighten only until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

CC097D

5. From the left side, install the case half 6 mm cap

screws noting the location of the wiring form; then

tighten only until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

CC096D

6. From the right side, install the case half 6 mm cap

screws (one inside the case); then tighten only

until snug.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

CC095D

7. In a crisscross/case-to-case pattern, tighten the 8

mm cap screws (from steps 3-4) until the halves

are correctly joined; then tighten to 16 ft-lb.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

8. In a crisscross/case-to-case pattern, tighten the 6

mm cap screws (from steps 5-6) to 8 ft-lb.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

Installing

Engine/Transmission

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends that new gaskets

and O-rings be installed whenever servicing the

ATV.

1. From the left side, place the engine/transmission

into the frame; then move it rearward as far as pos-

sible.

2. Raise the rear of the engine enough to engage the

front driveshaft into the splines of the front drive

output yoke; then slide the engine forward as far as

possible.

! CAUTION

After completing center crankcase components, pro-

ceed to Installing Right-Side Components, to Install-

ing Left-Side Components, and to Installing Top-Side

Components.

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CD818

3. Raise the rear of the engine and place a block

under it; then install the propeller shaft and output

flange into the rear drive coupler.

CD821

4. Remove the block from beneath the engine; then

align the rear drive flanges and secure with four

cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

CD824

5. Install the lower rear engine mounting

through-bolt, spacer, and washer; then install the

lower front engine mounting through-bolt, spacer,

and washer. Tighten to 40 ft-lb.

CD809

6. Connect the crankcase breather vent hose and

secure with the clamp.

7. Connect the lower coolant hose to the water pump

housing and secure with the clamp.

CC124D

8. Connect the positive cable to the starter motor and

install the protective boot.

AR604D

9. Connect the battery ground (negative) cable to the

crankcase cover.

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AR600D

10. Install the coil and secure with two cap screws;

then install the high tension lead on the spark plug.

CD814

11. Connect the upper coolant hose to the thermostat

housing and secure with the clamp.

CC121D

12. Install the air filter housing; then connect the

crankcase breather and the inlet air duct. Secure

with the clamps.

CD785

CD787

13. Position the carburetor into the intake pipe and

secure with the clamp; then connect the carburetor

boot to the air filter housing. Secure with the

clamp.

CD790

CD786

14. Connect the speed sensor connector to the sensor

housing.

CD794

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15. Install the exhaust pipe and secure with two cap

screws making sure the mounting brackets engage

the frame grommets; then install the muffler with

the springs. Tighten the exhaust pipe cap screws to

20 ft-lb.

CF138A

CD803

16. Swing the shift rod back into position on the

engine shift arm; then secure with the E-clip.

17. Place the left-side footwell and foot peg into posi-

tion on the footrest. Secure with two cap screws.

Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

18. Connect the gas hose to the fuel pump; then con-

nect the vacuum hose. Secure with hose clamps.

CD766A

19. Connect the temperature sensor wire to the main

harness.

CD788

20. Connect the gear shift position switch (A), stator

connector (B), and the CDI connector (C) to the

main harness.

CD797A

21. Install the front body panel and the front rack.

22. Install the side panels.

23. Install the battery connecting the positive cable

first; then the negative cable.

24. Pour the correct amount of recommended oil into

the engine/transmission filler hole; install the filler

plug.

25. Pour 2.9 L (3 U.S. qt) of premixed Arctic Cat

Antifreeze into the cooling system. Allow coolant

to settle and then fill to the bottom of the stand

pipe in the radiator neck.

26. Install the seat making sure it locks into position.

! CAUTION

If the engine had a major overhaul or if any major part

was replaced, proper engine break-in procedures

must be followed (see Section 1). If the proper engine

break-in procedures are not followed, severe engine

damage may result.

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3-166

Table of Contents

(H2 Models)

Removing Engine/Transmission.......................... 3-166

Top-Side Components......................................... 3-170

Removing Top-Side Components ....................... 3-170

Servicing Top-Side Components......................... 3-174

Installing Top-Side Components ......................... 3-182

Left-Side Components ........................................ 3-188

Removing Left-Side Components ....................... 3-188

Installing Left-Side Components ......................... 3-191

Right-Side Components ...................................... 3-194

Removing Right-Side Components..................... 3-194

Servicing Right-Side Components ...................... 3-196

Installing Right-Side Components....................... 3-197

Center Crankcase Components.......................... 3-199

Separating Crankcase Halves............................. 3-199

Disassembling Crankcase Half ........................... 3-200

Servicing Center Crankcase Components.......... 3-202

Assembling Crankcase Half ................................ 3-209

Joining Crankcase Halves................................... 3-211

Installing Engine/Transmission............................ 3-213

Removing Engine/

Transmission

Many service procedures can be performed without

removing the engine/transmission from the frame.

Closely observe the note introducing each sub-section

for this important information.

Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

1. Remove the seat and tool tray; then remove the

negative battery cable.

2. Remove the front rack, gauge pod, footwells and

footrests; then remove the front body panel (see

Section 8).

3. Disconnect the IAT sensor connector; then loosen

the clamp securing the inlet air boot to the throttle

body and remove the air filter housing assembly.

GZ013

GZ091A

4. Using an absorbent towel, clean any spilled gaso-

line; then press the gasline hose connectors and

remove from the fuel rails.

GZ124

5. Disconnect the TPS connector (A), MAP sensor

connector (B), and ISC valve connector (C) from

the throttle body; then route the harness and con-

nectors away from the engine.

 AT THIS POINT

If the technician’s objective is to service front

Top-Side Components, Left-Side Components, or

Right-Side Components, the engine/transmission

does not have to be removed from the frame.

 AT THIS POINT

If the technician’s objective is to service/replace the

oil strainer (from beneath the engine/transmission),

the engine/transmission does not have to be removed

from the frame.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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GZ094A

NOTE: Using a suitable marker, mark the loca-

tions of any ties that are removed to relocate wir-

ing out of the way.

6. Loosen the clamps securing the throttle body to

the intake manifolds; then remove the throttle

body and leaving the throttle cable connected, lay

the assembly over the handlebar.

GZ090B

7. Disconnect the fuel injector wiring connectors;

then remove the intake manifolds leaving the

injectors installed.

GZ106

GZ107

8. Disconnect the stator coil connector and the crank-

shaft position sensor connector; then disconnect

the gear shift position switch connector.

GZ069A

GZ368A

9. Loosen the clamps securing the V-belt cooling

ducts to the V-belt housing; then disconnect the

cooling ducts.

GZ037

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GZ103B

10. Remove the E-clips securing the shift linkage to

the shift lever and shift shaft; then remove the shift

linkage. Account for two bushings and two flat

washers.

11. Remove the cap screws securing the rear drive-

shaft yoke flange to the rear output flange.

GZ374

12. Remove the exhaust pipe springs at the muffler

and remove the muffler. Account for the grafoil

seal.

GZ372

13. Remove the nuts securing the rear exhaust pipe to

the cylinder; then remove the springs securing the

rear exhaust pipe to the front exhaust pipe and

remove the rear exhaust pipe. Account for a grafoil

seal on the pipe juncture and a seal in the cylinder.

GZ099A

14. Remove the front and rear spark plug wires from

the spark plugs; then disconnect the primary wire

connectors from the coils and remove the coils

from the left side of the frame.

GZ071A

15. Remove the cap screw securing the engine and

harness grounds to the engine.

GZ064A

16. Remove the cap screws securing the upper bumper

support to the frame and swing the bumper for-

ward allowing access to the radiator drain plug.

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GZ068

17. Place a suitable drain pan under the radiator; then

remove the radiator drain plug. Do not loosen the

radiator cap at this time.

GZ086A

18. Remove the bleed screw from the water pump;

then after coolant has drained, apply compressed

air to the bleed opening to purge the remaining

coolant from the system. Install the bleed screw

and radiator drain plug and tighten securely.

GZ009A

19. Remove the coolant hoses from the upper engine

coolant outlet pipes; then remove the lower cool-

ant hose from the water pump.

GZ028

GZ369A

GZ008

20. Remove the flange nuts from the front and rear

engine through-bolts; then rock the engine slightly

to relieve motor mount pressure and remove the

through-bolts.

GZ118

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when using compressed

air.

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GZ104

21. Rotate the front driveshaft until the output yoke

universal joint is in the vertical plane; then raise

the front of the engine/transmission until the front

drive splines disengage from the differential.

GZ 110A

GZ117A

22. Fold the front drive line up and secure against the

front of the engine; then lift the engine clear of the

mountings and remove from the right side of the

frame.

GZ123

Top-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission must be

removed to service the rear cylinder head, cylin-

der, and piston.

Removing Top-Side

Components

A. Valve Cover/Rocker Arms

B. Cylinder Head/Camshaft

1. Remove the timing inspection plug, spark plugs,

and magneto housing cover; then install the 10

mm cap screw (left-hand threads) in the crankshaft

and rotate the desired cylinder to top-dead-center

of the compression stroke.

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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GZ027

GZ026

NOTE: Timing marks on the rotor/flywheel are

stamped with an “F” (front cylinder) and “R” (rear

cylinder) adjacent to the mark.

GZ063

GZ059

2. Remove the tappet covers on the cylinder being

serviced. The tappets should not have pressure on

them.

3. Remove the cap screws securing the valve cover to

the head; account for the four rubber washers on

the top side cap screws. Remove the valve cover.

Account for and note the orientation of the cam-

shaft plug. Note the location of two alignment

pins.

GZ126A

GZ162

GZ132A

4. Remove the cap screw on the end of the tensioner;

then using a screwdriver, turn the tensioner clock-

wise to remove the tension. Remove the two cap

screws securing the tensioner adjuster assembly

and remove the assembly. Account for a gasket.

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GZ200

5. Using an awl, rotate the C-ring in its groove until

it is out of the cylinder head; then remove the

C-ring.

NOTE: Care should be taken not to drop the

C-ring into the crankcase.

GZ155

6. Bend the washer tabs down and remove the two

cap screws securing the sprocket to the camshaft;

then drop the sprocket off the camshaft.

GZ154A

7. While holding the chain, slide the sprocket and

camshaft out of the cylinder head.

CC266D

NOTE: Loop the chain over the cylinder head and

secure it to keep it from falling into the crankcase.

8. Remove the five nuts securing the cylinder head to

the cylinder; then remove the four cylinder head

cap screws and washers.

NOTE: Removing the starter will simplify removal

of the front cylinder base nuts.

GZ136A

GZ132B

9. Remove the cylinder head from the cylinder,

remove the gasket, and account for two alignment

pins; then remove the cam chain guide.

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GZ151

GZ161

10. If the remaining cylinder head is to be serviced,

apply tension to the loose timing chain and rotate

the second cylinder to top-dead-center of the com-

pression stroke; then repeat steps 2-10 on the other

cylinder head.

C. Cylinders

D. Pistons

NOTE: Steps 1-10 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

11. Remove the cap screws securing the water hose

union to the cylinder; then remove the union from

the cylinder. Account for an O-ring.

GZ140A

12. Remove the two nuts securing the cylinder to the

crankcase.

GZ141A

GZ160A

13. Lift the cylinder off the crankcase taking care not

to allow the piston to drop against the crankcase.

Account for the gasket and two alignment pins.

GZ142

 AT THIS POINT

To service valves and cylinder head, see Servicing

Top-Side Components sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To inspect cam chain guide, see Servicing Top-Side

Components sub-section.

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GZ144

14. Using an awl, remove one piston-pin circlip.

GZ145

15. Using the Piston Pin Puller, remove the piston pin.

Account for the opposite-side circlip. Remove the

piston.

NOTE: It is advisable to remove the opposite-side

circlip prior to using the puller.

NOTE: Support the connecting rod with rubber

bands or a piece of hose to avoid damaging the

rod or install the Connecting Rod Holder.

GZ146A

NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced

with new rings, note the location of each ring for

proper installation. When replacing with new rings,

replace as a complete set only. If the piston rings

must be removed, remove them in this sequence.

A. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the

ring out of the ring-groove.

B. Remove each ring by working it toward the

dome of the piston while rotating it out of the

groove.

Servicing Top-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

VALVE ASSEMBLY

When servicing valve assembly, inspect valve seats,

valve stems, valve faces, and valve stem ends for pits,

burn marks, or other signs of abnormal wear.

NOTE: Whenever a valve is out of tolerance, it

must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Valve Cover

NOTE: If the valve cover cannot be trued, the cyl-

inder head assembly must be replaced.

1. Wash the valve cover in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Place the valve cover on the Surface Plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the valve cover in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indica-

tion of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a

bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the valve

cover in a figure eight motion until a uniform

bright metallic finish is attained.

 AT THIS POINT

To service cylinder, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

! CAUTION

When removing the cylinder, be sure to support the

piston to prevent damage to the crankcase and piston.

! CAUTION

Do not allow the connecting rod to go down inside the

crankcase. If the rod is down inside the crankcase and

the crankshaft is rotated, severe damage will result.

 AT THIS POINT

To service piston, see Servicing Top-Side Compo-

nents sub-section.

 AT THIS POINT

To service center crankcase components only, pro-

ceed to Removing Left-Side Components.

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CC130D

Removing Valves

NOTE: Keep all valves and valve components as

a set. Note the original location of each valve set

for use during installation. Return each valve set to

its original location during installation.

1. Using a valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and remove the valve cotters.

Account for an upper spring retainer.

CC132D

2. Remove the valve seal and the lower remaining

spring seat. Discard the valve seal.

CC136D

NOTE: The valve seals must be replaced.

3. Remove the valve springs; then invert the cylinder

head and remove the valves.

Measuring Valve Stem Runout

1. Support each valve stem end with the V Blocks;

then check the valve stem runout using a dial indi-

cator.

ATV-1082

2. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Stem

Outside Diameter

1. Using a micrometer, measure the valve stem out-

side diameter.

2. Acceptable diameter range (intake valve) must be

within specifications.

3. Acceptable diameter range (exhaust valve) must

be within specifications.

Measuring Valve Face/Seat Width

1. Using a micrometer, measure the width of the

valve face.

! CAUTION

Do not remove an excessive amount of the sealing

surface or damage to the camshaft will result. Always

check camshaft clearance when resurfacing the valve

cover.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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ATV-1004

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Valve Face Radial

Runout

1. Mount a dial indicator on the surface plate; then

place the valve stem on a set of V blocks.

2. Position the dial indicator contact point on the out-

side edge of the valve face; then zero the indicator.

ATV1082A

3. Rotate the valve in the V blocks.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide/Valve Stem

Deflection (Wobble Method)

1. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate; then place the cylinder head on the surface

plate.

2. Install the valve into the cylinder head; then posi-

tion the dial indicator contact point against the out-

side edge of the valve face. Zero the indicator.

CC131D

3. Push the valve from side to side; then from top to

bottom.

4. Maximum “wobble” deflection must not exceed

specifications.

Measuring Valve Guide

(Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge 1/2 way down into each valve

guide bore; then remove the gauge and measure it

with a micrometer.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

3. If a valve guide is out of tolerance, it must be

replaced.

Servicing Valves/Valve

Guides/Valve Seats

If valves, valve guides, or valve seats require servicing

or replacement, Arctic Cat recommends that the com-

ponents be taken to a qualified machine shop for ser-

vicing.

Measuring Rocker Arm

(Inside Diameter)

1. Using a dial calipers, measure the inside diameter

of the rocker arm.

2. Acceptable inside diameter range must be within

specifications.

Measuring Rocker Arm Shaft

(Outside Diameter)

1. Using a micrometer, measure the outside diameter

of the rocker arm shaft.

2. Acceptable outside diameter range must be within

specifications.

! CAUTION

If valves are discolored or pitted or if the seating sur-

face is worn, the valve must be replaced. Do not

attempt to grind the valves or severe engine damage

may occur.

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3-177

Installing Valves

1. Apply grease to the inside surface of the valve

seals; then place a lower spring seat and valve

guide seal over each valve guide.

CC144D

2. Insert each valve into its original location.

3. Install the valve springs with the painted end of the

spring facing away from the cylinder head.

NOTE: If the paint is not visible, install the ends

of the springs with the closest wound coils toward

the head.

ATV-1011A

4. Place a spring retainer over the valve springs; then

using the valve spring compressor, compress the

valve springs and install the valve cotters.

PISTON ASSEMBLY

NOTE: Whenever a piston, rings, or pin are out of

tolerance, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the dome of the piston.

2. Inspect the piston for cracks in the piston pin,

dome, and skirt areas.

3. Inspect the piston for seizure marks or scuffing.

Repair with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and

water or honing oil.

NOTE: If scuffing or seizure marks are too deep

to correct with the sandpaper, replace the piston.

4. Inspect the perimeter of each piston for signs of

excessive “blowby.” Excessive “blowby” indicates

worn piston rings or an out-of-round cylinder.

Removing Piston Rings

1. Starting with the top ring, slide one end of the ring

out of the ring-groove.

CC400D

2. Remove each ring by working it toward the dome

of the piston while rotating it out of the groove.

NOTE: If the existing rings will not be replaced

with new ones, note the location of each ring for

proper installation. When installing new rings,

install as a complete set only.

Cleaning/Inspecting Piston Rings

1. Take an old piston ring and snap it into two pieces;

then grind the end of the old ring to a 45° angle

and to a sharp edge.

2. Using the sharpened ring as a tool, clean carbon

from the ring-grooves. Be sure to position the ring

with its tapered side up.

Measuring Piston-Ring End Gap

(Installed)

1. Place each compression ring in the wear portion of

the cylinder. Use the piston to position each ring

squarely in the cylinder.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure each piston-ring

end gap. Acceptable ring end gap must be within

specifications.

! CAUTION

Improper cleaning of the ring-grooves by the use of

the wrong type of ring-groove cleaner will result in

severe damage to the piston.

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CC280D

Measuring Piston Pin (Outside

Diameter) and Piston-Pin Bore

1. Measure the piston pin outside diameter at each

end and in the center. If measurement is not within

specifications, the piston pin must be replaced.

ATV-1070

2. Insert an inside dial indicator into the piston-pin

bore. The diameter must not exceed specifications.

Take two measurements to ensure accuracy.

ATV-1069

Measuring Piston Skirt/

Cylinder Clearance

1. Measure the cylinder front to back in six places.

CC127D

2. Measure the corresponding piston diameter at a

point 15 mm (0.6 in.) above the piston skirt at a

right angle to the piston-pin bore. Subtract this

measurement from the measurement in step 1. The

difference (clearance) must be within specifica-

tions.

Installing Piston Rings

1. Install the expander spring making sure the ends

are aligned on the wire; then install the oil ring

with the ring gap 90° from the spring gap and the

marking “E TOP” directed toward the top of the

piston.

GZ168

GZ169A

2. Install the second compression ring with the mark-

ing “E TOP” directed toward the top of the piston.

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GZ167

3. Install the first (unmarked) compression ring; then

rotate the rings so the ring gaps are approximately

180° apart and orientated to the piston pin.

GZ187A

CYLINDER/CYLINDER HEAD

ASSEMBLY

NOTE: If the cylinder/cylinder head assembly

cannot be trued, they must be replaced.

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder Head

1. Using a non-metallic carbon removal tool, remove

any carbon buildup from the combustion chamber

being careful not to nick, scrape, or damage the

combustion chamber or the sealing surface.

2. Inspect the spark plug hole for any damaged

threads. Repair damaged threads using a

“heli-coil” insert.

3. Place the cylinder head on the surface plate cov-

ered with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using

light pressure, move the cylinder head in a figure

eight motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any

indication of high spots. A high spot can be noted

by a bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der head in a figure eight motion until a uniform

bright metallic finish is attained.

Measuring Cylinder Head

Distortion

1. Remove any carbon buildup in the combustion

chamber.

2. Lay a straightedge across the cylinder head; then

using a feeler gauge, check the distortion factor

between the head and the straightedge.

3. Maximum distortion must not exceed specifica-

tions.

CC141D

Cleaning/Inspecting Cylinder

1. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

warpage, and corrosion. If marks are found, repair

the surface using a cylinder hone (see Inspecting

Cylinder in this sub-section).

3. Place the cylinder on the surface plate covered

with #400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper. Using light

pressure, move the cylinder in a figure eight

motion. Inspect the sealing surface for any indica-

tion of high spots. A high spot can be noted by a

bright metallic finish. Correct any high spots

before assembly by continuing to move the cylin-

der in a figure eight motion until a uniform bright

metallic finish is attained.

! CAUTION

Incorrect installation of the piston rings will result in

engine damage.

! CAUTION

The cylinder head studs must be removed for this pro-

cedure.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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CC129D

Inspecting Cam Chain Guide

1. Inspect cam chain guide for cuts, tears, breaks, or

chips.

2. If the chain guide is damaged, it must be replaced.

Inspecting Cylinder

1. Using a slide gauge and a dial indicator or a snap

gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter in three

locations from top to bottom and again from top to

bottom at 90° from the first measurements for a

total of six measurements. The trueness

(out-of-roundness) is the difference between the

highest and lowest reading. Maximum trueness

(out-of-roundness) must not exceed specifications.

CC127D

2. Wash the cylinder in parts-cleaning solvent.

3. Inspect the cylinder for pitting, scoring, scuffing,

and corrosion. If marks are found, repair the sur-

face using a #320 grit ball hone.

NOTE: To produce the proper 60° cross-hatch

pattern, use a low RPM drill (600 RPM) at the rate

of 30 strokes per minute. If honing oil is not avail-

able, use a lightweight petroleum-based oil. Thor-

oughly clean cylinder after honing using soap and

hot water. Dry with compressed air; then immedi-

ately apply oil to the cylinder bore. If the bore is

severely damaged or gouged, replace the cylinder.

CC390D

4. If any measurement exceeds the limit, replace the

cylinder and piston.

Measuring Camshaft Runout

NOTE: If the camshaft is out of tolerance, it must

be replaced.

1. Place the camshaft on a set of V blocks; then posi-

tion the dial indicator contact point against the

shaft and zero the indicator.

CC283D

2. Rotate the camshaft and note runout; maximum

tolerance must not exceed specifications.

Measuring Camshaft Lobe Height

1. Using a calipers, measure each cam lobe height.

! CAUTION

Water or parts-cleaning solvent must be used in con-

junction with the wet-or-dry sandpaper or damage to

the sealing surface may result.

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ATV1013A

2. The lobe heights must not exceed minimum speci-

fications.

Inspecting Camshaft Bearing

Journal

1. Inspect the bearing journal for scoring, seizure

marks, or pitting.

2. If excessive scoring, seizure marks, or pitting is

found, the cylinder head assembly must be

replaced.

Measuring Camshaft to

Cylinder Head Clearance

1. Remove the adjuster screws and jam nuts.

CC005D

2. Place a strip of plasti-gauge in each of the cam-

shaft lands in the cylinder head.

3. Place the valve cover on the cylinder head and

secure with the valve cover cap screws. Tighten

securely.

NOTE: Do not rotate the camshaft when measur-

ing clearance.

4. Remove the cap screws securing the valve cover to

the cylinder; then remove the valve cover and

camshaft.

5. Match the width of the plasti-gauge with the chart

found on the plasti-gauge packaging to determine

camshaft to cylinder head and valve cover clear-

ance.

CC145D

6. If clearance is excessive, measure the journals of

the camshaft.

CC287D

NOTE: If the journals are worn, replace the cam-

shaft; then measure the clearance again. If it is still

out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.

Inspecting Camshaft Spring/Drive

Pin (Front Camshaft Only)

1. Inspect the spring and drive pin for damage.

CF061A

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3-182

CF060A

2. If damaged, the camshaft must be replaced.

Installing Top-Side

Components

A. Pistons

B. Cylinders

1. Install the piston on the connecting rod making

sure there is a circlip on each side and the open

end of the circlip faces upwards.

NOTE: The piston should be installed so the

arrow points toward the exhaust of the respective

cylinder.

GZ166

2. Place the two alignment pins into position. Place

the cylinder gasket into position; then place a pis-

ton holder (or suitable substitute) beneath the pis-

ton skirt and square the piston in respect to the

crankcase.

GZ159

3. Lubricate the inside wall of the cylinder; then

using a ring compressor, compress the rings and

slide the cylinder over the piston. Route the cam

chain up through the cylinder cam chain housing;

then remove the piston holder and seat the cylinder

firmly on the crankcase.

GZ142

4. Loosely install the two nuts securing the cylinder

to the crankcase.

NOTE: The two cylinder-to-crankcase nuts will be

tightened in step 10.

GZ141A

! CAUTION

The cylinder should slide on easily. Do not force the

cylinder or damage to the piston, rings, cylinder, or

crankshaft assembly may occur.

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3-183

GZ160A

5. Install the coolant hose onto the crankcase union

and tighten the clamp.

C. Cylinder Head

D. Valve Cover

NOTE: Steps 1-5 in the preceding sub-section

must precede this procedure.

6. Place the chain guide into the cylinder.

GZ161A

7. Place a new head gasket into position on the cylin-

der. Place the alignment pins into position; then

place the head assembly into position on the cylin-

der while guiding the cam chain through the cylin-

der head.

GZ151

8. Install the four cylinder head cap screws with

washers. Tighten only until snug.

GZ132B

9. Loosely install the five cylinder head nuts.

10. In a crisscross pattern, tighten the four cylinder

head cap screws (from step 8) to 40 ft-lb; then

tighten the 8 mm nut (from step 9) to 18 ft-lb.

Using a crisscross pattern, tighten the 6 mm nuts

(from step 9) to 8 ft-lb. Tighten the two cylin-

der-to-crankcase nuts (from step 4) securely.

NOTE: If both cylinders have been removed,

repeat steps 1-10 for the remaining cylinder.

11. With the timing inspection plug removed and the

chains held tight, rotate the crankshaft until the

front piston is at top-dead-center.

12. With the alignment pin installed in the camshaft,

loosely place the cam sprocket (with the recessed

side facing the cam shaft lobes) onto the camshaft.

At this point, do not “seat” the sprocket onto the

shaft.

732-307B

! CAUTION

Care should be taken that the bottom of the chain

guide is secured in the crankcase boss.

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GZ130



NOTE: At this point, oil the camshaft bearings, cam

lobes, and the three seating journals on the cylinder.

13. With the cam lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton), maneuver the camshaft/sprocket assembly

through the chain and towards its seating position;

then loop the chain over the sprocket.

NOTE: Note the position of the alignment marks

on the end of the camshaft. They must be parallel

with the valve cover mating surface. If rotating the

camshaft is necessary for alignment, do not allow

the chain and sprocket to rotate and be sure the

cam lobes end up in the down position.

GZ190A

14. Seat the cam sprocket onto the camshaft making

sure the alignment pin in the camshaft aligns with

the smallest hole in the sprocket; then place the

camshaft/sprocket assembly onto the cylinder

ensuring the following.

GZ190B

A. Piston still at top-dead-center.

B. Camshaft lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton).

C. Camshaft alignment marks parallel to the valve

cover mating surface.

D. Recessed side of the sprocket directed toward

the cam lobes.

E. Camshaft alignment pin and sprocket alignment

hole (smallest) are aligned.

15. Place the tab-washer onto the sprocket making

sure it covers the pin in the alignment hole.

ATV1027

16. Install the first cap screw (threads coated with red

Loctite #271) securing the sprocket and

tab-washer to the camshaft. Tighten only until

snug.

GZ195

! CAUTION

If any of the above factors are not as stated, go back to

step 11 and carefully proceed.

! CAUTION

Care must be taken that the tab-washer is installed

correctly to cover the alignment hole on the sprocket.

If the alignment pin falls out, severe engine damage

will result.

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17. Keeping tension on the opposite cam chain, rotate

the crankshaft until the second cap screw securing

the sprocket to the camshaft can be installed; then

install the cap screw (threads coated with red Loc-

tite #271) and tighten to 10 ft-lb. Bend the tab to

secure the cap screw.

GZ193

18. Rotate the crankshaft until the first cap screw

(from step 16) can be tightened; then tighten to 10

ft-lb. Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

19. Keeping tension on the rear cam chain, rotate the

engine forward 270° until rear piston is at TDC

indicated by timing mark R.

GZ060

20. With the cam lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton), maneuver the camshaft/sprocket assembly

through the chain and towards its seating position;

then loop the chain over the sprocket.

NOTE: Note the position of the alignment marks

on the end of the camshaft. They must NOT be par-

allel with the valve cover but offset slightly to the

rear (approximately 5°). If rotating the camshaft is

necessary for alignment, do not allow the chain

and sprocket to rotate and be sure the cam lobes

end up in the down position.

GZ189A

GZ189B

21. Seat the cam sprocket onto the camshaft making

sure the alignment pin in the camshaft aligns with

the smallest hole in the sprocket; then place the

camshaft/sprocket assembly onto the cylinder

ensuring the following.

732-307B

A. Piston still at top-dead-center.

B. Camshaft lobes directed down (toward the pis-

ton).

C. Camshaft alignment marks offset 5° from the

valve cover mating surface.

! CAUTION

Failure to keep tension on any loose cam chain may

cause severe engine damage.

 AT THIS POINT

Return the engine to TDC on the front cylinder making

sure the cam lobes are directed downward to ensure

correct starting point for step 19.

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3-186

D. Recessed side of the sprocket directed toward

the cam lobes.

E. Camshaft alignment pin and sprocket alignment

hole (smallest) are aligned.

22. Place tab-washer onto the sprocket making sure it

covers the pin in the alignment hole.

ATV-1027

23. Install the first cap screw (threads coated with red

Loctite #271) securing the sprocket and

tab-washer to the camshaft. Tighten only until

snug.

GZ195

24. Rotate the crankshaft until the second cap screw

securing the sprocket to the camshaft can be

installed; then install the cap screw (threads coated

with red Loctite #271) and tighten to 10 ft-lb.

Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

GZ193

CD465

25. Rotate the crankshaft until the first cap screw

(from step 23) can be addressed; then tighten to 10

ft-lb. Bend the tab to secure the cap screw.

GZ194

26. Place the C-rings into position in their grooves in

the cylinder heads.

CC012D

! CAUTION

If any of the above factors are not as stated go back to

step 19 and carefully proceed.

! CAUTION

Care must be taken that the tab-washer is installed

correctly to cover the alignment hole on the sprocket.

If the alignment pin falls out, severe engine damage

will result.

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3-187

27. Install the cylinder head plugs in the cylinder

heads with the open end facing downward and

toward the inside.

CD468

28. Remove the cap screw from the end of the chain

tensioner; then using a flat-blade screwdriver,

rotate the adjuster screw inside the tensioner

clockwise until the screw bottoms.

CD501

NOTE: The adjuster shaft will be drawn into the

tensioner as the adjuster screw is rotated clock-

wise. The adjuster shaft tension will be released in

step 30.

29. Place the chain tensioner adjuster assembly and

gasket into position on the cylinder and secure

with the two cap screws.

CD469

30. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, rotate the adjuster

screw inside the tensioner counterclockwise until

all tension is released; then install the cap screw

into the end of the chain tensioner.

GZ201

CD471

31. Loosen the four adjuster screw jam nuts; then

loosen the four adjuster screws on the rocker arms

in the valve cover.

GZ199

32. Apply a thin coat of Three Bond Sealant to the

mating surfaces of the cylinder heads.

! CAUTION

The open end of the plug must be positioned downward.

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3-188

GZ202

33. Lubricate the camshaft journals and lobes with

engine oil; then place the valve cover into posi-

tion.

GZ206

NOTE: At this point, the rocker arms and adjuster

screws must not have pressure on them.

34. Install the top side cap screws with rubber wash-

ers; then install the remaining cap screws. Tighten

only until snug.

CC003D

35. In a crisscross pattern starting from the center and

working outward, tighten the cap screws on both

valve covers securely.

36. Adjust valve/tappet clearance (see Section 2).

37. Place the tappet covers into position making sure

the O-rings are properly installed. Tighten the cap

screws securely.

GZ208

38. If removed, install the spark plugs. Tighten

securely.

Left-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Left-Side

Components

A. Magneto Cover/Stator Coils

B. Water Pump

C. Shifter Assembly

D. Rotor/Flywheel/Starter Clutch

E. Speed Sensor/Trigger Assembly

1. Remove the cap screws securing the magneto

cover to the crankcase; then remove the magneto

cover. Account for the gasket.

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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GZ212A

2. Remove the starter motor, starter driven gear (A),

starter countershaft bushing (B), and starter coun-

tershaft gear (C); then remove the starter gear

shafts (D) noting that the longer shaft is nearest the

starter.

GZ224A

NOTE: The starter is not serviceable and must be

replaced as a complete assembly.

3. Remove the rotor/flywheel nut; then install the

appropriate crankshaft protector into the crank-

shaft.

PR440

4. Install Magneto Rotor Remover Set and loosen the

rotor/flywheel; then remove the crankshaft protec-

tor and rotor/flywheel from the crankshaft.

Account for the flywheel key.

GZ216

NOTE: The puller has left-hand threads.

GZ217

5. With the flywheel key removed, remove the starter

ring-gear and spacer washer.

GZ226

GZ249

 AT THIS POINT

To replace stator coils/crankshaft position sensor, see

Section 5.

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6. Remove the hose clamps from the water pump;

then remove the coolant hoses from the water

pump outlets and coolant pipes.

GZ218

7. Remove the two cap screws securing the water

pump to the crankcase; then remove the water

pump. Account for an O-ring.

GZ230A

NOTE: The water pump is a non-serviceable com-

ponent and must be replaced as a complete

assembly.

8. Remove the cap screws securing the gear shift

cover to the crankcase; then remove the gear shift

cover. Account for a gasket and washer.

NOTE: Inspect the inside of the left-side cover for

any shaft washers that may have come off with the

cover. Make sure they are returned to their respec-

tive shafts.

GZ231A

GZ233A

9. Remove the nut (A) from the shift cam stopper

bolt (B); then remove the cam stopper spring (C).

Account for a flat washer (D).

GZ236A

10. Remove the cap screw securing the shift cam plate

to the shift cam shaft and remove the shift cam

plate; then remove the shift shaft. Account for a

washer.

GZ234B

11. Remove the cap screws securing the speed sensor

housing to the crankcase and remove the housing

assembly; then remove the snap ring securing the

speed sensor trigger to the shaft and remove the

trigger. Account for a gasket.

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GZ243

GZ235

12. Remove the cap screws securing the oil filler

cover to the crankcase; then remove the cover.

Account for an O-ring.

GZ250

Installing Left-Side

Components

1. Thoroughly clean all gasket material and sealant

from mating surfaces.

2. Install a new O-ring on the oil filler cover and coat

it with clean engine oil; then install the oil filler

cover into the crankcase and secure with the cap

screws. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ250

3. Install the inner snap ring onto the countershaft;

then install the speed sensor trigger, a flat washer,

and the outer snap ring.

GZ253

GZ254

4. Using a new gasket, install the speed sensor hous-

ing onto the crankcase and secure with two cap

screws. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ232

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5. If removed, install the shift cam stopper on the

support; then with the flat washer in place, install

the shift cam stopper assembly into the crankcase

and tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ255

GZ256

6. Install the shift cam stopper spring onto the shift

cam stopper and secure with a flat washer and

flange nut. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ259

7. Install the shift cam plate onto the shift cam shaft

and secure with the cap screw. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

GZ260

8. Install the shift shaft into the crankcase making

sure the washers are properly located; then align

the timing reference marks and completely seat the

shift shaft.

GZ258

GZ261

9. Apply grease to the lips of the shift shaft seal in

the shifter housing; then using a new gasket,

install the shifter housing and secure with the cap

screws. Tighten in a crisscross pattern to 8 ft-lb.

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GZ262

10. Install the spacer washer on the crankshaft; then

install the starter ring gear.

GZ249

GZ226

11. Place the key into the keyway in the crankshaft;

then wipe all oil from the crankshaft surface and

rotor/flywheel bore and install the rotor/flywheel

onto the crankshaft aligning the keyway with the

key. Secure with the nut and tighten to 107 ft-lb.

GZ225

12. Install the starter driven and counter gear shafts

(D) into the crankcase (longer shaft to the front);

then install the starter countershaft gear (C), starter

driven gear (A), and bushing (B) making sure the

chamfered gear teeth on the countershaft gear are

directed outward.

GZ224A

13. Install the starter motor with a new O-ring lightly

lubricated with grease; then tighten the mounting

cap screws to 8 ft-lb.

GZ251

14. Install the magneto cover using a new gasket and

secure with the cap screws. Using the pattern

shown, tighten to 8 ft-lb.

! CAUTION

Make sure the one-way starter clutch is properly

engaged with the starter ring gear before installing

and tightening the rotor/flywheel nut or damage to the

clutch assembly could occur.

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GZ212B

Right-Side Components

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

NOTE: The engine/transmission does not have to

be removed from the frame for this procedure.

Removing Right-Side

Components

A. V-Belt Cover

B. Driven Pulley

C. Clutch Cover

D. Centrifugal Clutch

1. Remove the cap screws securing the V-belt cover;

then using a rubber mallet, gently tap on the cover

tabs to loosen the cover. Account for a gasket and

two alignment pins.

GZ244B

2. Remove the nut securing the movable drive face;

then remove the face. Account for a spacer and a

flat washer.

GZ074

CD966A

3. Remove the V-belt.

4. Remove the nut securing the fixed driven assem-

bly; then remove the assembly.

 AT THIS POINT

To service any one specific component, only limited

disassembly of components may be necessary. Note

the AT THIS POINT information in each sub-section.

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PR388

5. Remove the fixed drive face.

6. Remove the cap screws securing the V-belt hous-

ing to the crankcase; then remove the V-belt hous-

ing. Account for two alignment pins.

GZ246A

7. Remove the cap screws securing the clutch cover;

then using a rubber mallet, carefully remove the

cover. Account for two alignment pins.

GZ246B

GZ247A

NOTE: To aid in installing, it is recommended that

the assemblies are kept together and IN ORDER.

8. Remove the one-way clutch from the centrifugal

clutch. Note the location of the green dot (or the

word OUTSIDE) for installing purposes.

GZ247B

9. Using a hydraulic press, remove the clutch hous-

ing assembly from the clutch cover. Account for

the left fixed drive spacer and an O-ring inside the

fixed drive spacer.

CF085

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CC596

NOTE: Account for and inspect the clutch hous-

ing seal.

10. Remove the two cap screws securing the gear shift

position switch; then remove the switch. Account

for two contact pins and two springs.

CD997

11. Remove the nut (left-hand threads) securing the

clutch shoe assembly.

GZ248A

Servicing Right-Side

Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

INSPECTING CENTRIFUGAL

CLUTCH SHOE

1. Inspect the clutch shoes for uneven wear, chips,

cracks, or discoloration. If any shoe is damaged,

replace the complete set.

2. Inspect the clutch shoes for wear or damage. If any

shoe is worn to the bottom of the groove, replace

the complete set.

ATV1014

INSPECTING CLUTCH HOUSING

1. Inspect the clutch housing for burns, grooving,

cracks, or uneven wear.

2. If the housing is damaged in any way, the housing

must be replaced.

INSPECTING PRIMARY

ONE-WAY DRIVE

1. Insert the drive into the clutch housing.

2. Rotate the inner race by hand and verify the inner

race rotates only one direction.

3. If the inner race is locked in place or rotates both

directions, the drive assembly must be replaced.

DRIVEN PULLEY ASSEMBLY

NOTE: The driven pulley is a non-serviceable

component. If the pulley faces, cam ramps, or

sheeve bushing are worn or loose, the pulley must

be replaced as an assembly. Do not disassemble

the driven pulley.

! CAUTION

Always replace the clutch shoes as a complete set or

severe imbalance could occur.

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Installing Right-Side

Components

1. Apply silicone to the mating surfaces; then install

the gear shift position switch making sure the two

contact pins and the two springs are properly posi-

tioned. Tighten the cap screws securely.

CD997

GZ240

2. Install the clutch shoe assembly and secure with

the flange nut (threads coated with red Loctite

#271). Tighten to 221 ft-lb.

GZ241

3. Lightly grease the clutch housing seal; then insert

the left fixed drive spacer.

CF088A

4. Install the clutch cover alignment pins into the

crankcase, apply oil to the cover gasket, and install

the gasket onto the crankcase.

5. Apply grease to the outer edges of the clutch hous-

ing; then from inside the clutch cover, install the

clutch housing into the cover.

6. Install the one-way clutch onto the clutch shoe

assembly.

GZ247

7. Place the clutch cover/clutch housing assembly

into position on the crankcase; then secure with

the cap screws. Tighten in a crisscross pattern to 8

ft-lb.

GZ246B

! CAUTION

When installed correctly, the green alignment dot (or

the word OUTSIDE) on the one-way clutch is visible.

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8. Making sure the alignment pins are correctly

installed, place a bead of silicone sealant on the

mating surfaces and install the V-belt housing.

Secure with the cap screws tightened to 8 ft-lb.

GZ263

GZ244A

9. Place the driven pulley assembly into position and

secure with the nut (coated with red Loctite #271).

Tighten to 80 ft-lb.

GZ066

10. Slide the fixed drive face onto the clutch shaft.

11. Spread the faces of the driven pulley by threading

in a cap screw; then when the faces are separated,

insert the belt and push down between the faces.

GZ065A

12. Place the V-belt into position on the driven pulley

and over the front shaft.

GZ085

NOTE: The arrows on the V-belt should point for-

ward.

13. Pinch the V-belt together near its center and slide

the spacer and movable drive face onto the shaft.

Secure the drive face with a flat washer and a nut

(threads coated with red Loctite #271). Tighten the

nut to 165 ft-lb.

GZ075

! CAUTION

Make sure the splines extend beyond the drive face

and washer or a false torque reading and spline dam-

age may occur.

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PR386

NOTE: At this point, the cap screw can be

removed from between the driven pulley faces.

14. Rotate the V-belt and drive/driven assemblies until

the V-belt is flush with the top of the driven pulley.

15. Place the V-belt cover gasket into position; then

install the cover and secure with the cap screws.

Tighten the cap screws to 8 ft-lb.

Center Crankcase

Components

NOTE: This procedure cannot be done with the

engine/transmission in the frame. Complete

Removing procedures for Top-Side, Left-Side, and

Right-Side must precede this procedure.

NOTE: For efficiency, it is preferable to remove

and disassemble only those components which

need to be addressed and to service only those

components. The technician should use discretion

and sound judgment.

Separating Crankcase

Halves

1. Remove the oil strainer cap; then remove the oil

strainer.

GZ264

GZ268

2. Remove the cap screws securing the lower crank-

case to the upper crankcase halves; then using a

rubber hammer, free the lower crankcase and

remove. Account for two alignment pins.

GZ321A

3. Remove the secondary drive assembly; then

remove the secondary driven shaft assembly and

set aside. Account for one locating ring.

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GZ322B

GZ269A

NOTE: Do not disassemble these assemblies

unless service is required. If disassembled, sec-

ondary gear sets will have to be reset for backlash

and gear contact (see Servicing Center Crankcase

Components in this section).

4. Remove one cap screw from the right-side crank-

case and eight cap screws from the left-side crank-

case; then using a rubber mallet, separate the

crankcase halves leaving all components in the

right-side case. Account for a thrust washer on the

crankshaft and flat washers on gear shift shaft,

countershaft, and reverse idler. Note the location

of two alignment pins.

GZ271

GZ272B

Disassembling

Crankcase Half

NOTE: For steps 1-8, refer to photograph

GZ298A.

GZ298A

NOTE: To aid in installing, it is recommended that

the assemblies are kept together and IN ORDER.

1. Support the right-side crankcase assembly on suit-

able support blocks; then carefully remove the

crankshaft assembly (A) from the crankcase.

GZ298

2. Remove the snap ring securing the water pump

drive idler (B) to the idler shaft; then remove the

drive idler.

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GZ299A

3. Remove the water pump driven shaft (C). Account

for the driven gear and drive pin.

GZ304A

4. Remove the snap ring securing the oil pump

driven gear (D) to the oil pump driveshaft; then

remove the gear. Account for a drive pin and

washer.

GZ301A

5. Remove the shift fork shaft (E); then remove the

gear shift shaft assembly (F). Account for two flat

washers.

GZ276

6. Remove two cap screws securing the oil pump in

the crankcase and remove the oil pump.

GZ305

7. Remove the driveshaft (G); then remove the coun-

tershaft assembly (with shift forks) (H). Account

for three flat washers on the countershaft.

GZ280A

8. Remove the reverse idler gear (I), shaft bushing,

and two washers.

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GZ279

NOTE: Do not disassemble the countershaft

assembly unless necessary. If necessary, see Ser-

vicing Center Crankcase Components sub-sec-

tion.

Servicing Center

Crankcase Components

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, damaged in any way, or out of tolerance,

replacement is necessary.

SECONDARY OUTPUT DRIVE

GEARS

Initial Set-Up

NOTE: If the secondary output driven shaft is

replaced or disassembled, the initial set-up must

be performed to establish correct gear tooth con-

tact. If only the secondary output drive shaft or

secondary output driven gear are replaced, pro-

ceed to Correcting Backlash in this sub-section.

1. Install a new bearing (A) onto the secondary driven

shaft (B) making sure the bearing locating groove is

directed away from the driven gear splines.

MT011A

2. Using a suitable press, install the driven gear (C)

on the shaft until the gear firmly seats on the

shoulder of the shaft.

MT011B

3. If installing the existing shaft, start with the shims

removed during disassembly or if installing a new

shaft, start with approximately 1.0 mm shims at

point (D); then install the output drive shaft bear-

ing (E) making sure the locating pin is directed

toward the center of the shaft.

MT012

MT008A

4. Install a new seal (F), output yoke (G), and nut (H)

and tighten to 59 ft-lb.

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MT008B

NOTE: Do not use a new lock nut at this time as

this procedure may have to be repeated.

5. Place the assembled shaft into the left crankshaft

case; then lightly coat the gear teeth with machin-

ist's lay-out dye. Rotate the shafts through several

rotations in both directions. Gear contact should

extend from the root to the top of the gear teeth.

MT016A

6. To adjust tooth contact, use the following chart to

correctly shim the driven shaft.

7. After correct tooth contact is established, proceed

to Checking Backlash in this sub-section.

Checking Backlash

1. Install the drive bevel gear assembly and driven

bevel gear/output shaft assembly into the crank-

case bottom cover.

2. Mount the dial indicator so the tip is contacting a

tooth on the secondary drive bevel gear.

GZ396

3. While rocking the drive bevel gear back and forth,

note the maximum backlash reading on the gauge.

GZ398

4. Acceptable backlash range is 0.05-0.33 mm

(0.002-0.013 in.).

Correcting Backlash

NOTE: If backlash measurement is within the

acceptable range, no correction is necessary.

1. If backlash measurement is less than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

new thinner shim.

2. If backlash measurement is more than specified,

remove an existing shim, measure it, and install a

thicker shim.

NOTE: Continue to remove, measure, and install

until backlash measurement is within tolerance.

Note the following chart.

OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY

Disassembling and Inspecting

1. Remove the oil pump cover; then remove the gero-

tor set, shaft, and pin (see Disassembling Crank-

case Half in this section).

Tooth Contact Shim Correction

Contact at Top Increase Shim Thickness

Contact at Root Decrease Shim Thickness

Backlash Measurement Shim Correction

Under 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) Decrease Shim Thickness

At 0.05-0.33 mm (0.002-0.013 in.) No Correction Required

Over 0.33 mm (0.013 in.) Increase Shim Thickness

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2. Inspect the crankcase for securing, discoloration,

or cracks in the gerotor bore. If scored, crankcase

assembly must be replaced.

GZ357

3. Inspect the gerotor set for scoring, discoloration,

or cracks; then using a feeler gauge, check the

inner to outer rotor clearance. If measurements

exceed specifications, the gerotor set must be

replaced.

GZ355

4. Inspect the oil pump cover for scoring, discolora-

tion, or cracks. Replace if damaged.

GZ358

5. Inspect the oil pump driveshaft and drive pin for

excessive wear or grooving. Replace as required.

GZ354A

6. Remove the oil seal from the oil pump cover.

GZ365

Assembling

1. Install a new oil seal into the oil pump cover; then

coat the lips of the seal with grease and install the

pump driveshaft from the seal side.

GZ359

2. Noting the reference dots on the gerotor set, sepa-

rate the inner rotor from the outer rotor and with

the reference dot directed toward the oil pump

cover, place the rotor on the shaft; then install the

drive pin and push the shaft into the rotor.

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GZ356

GZ363

3. With the outer rotor reference dot directed toward

the oil pump cover, install the rotor onto the inner

rotor.

GZ360

4. Place a new O-ring seal on the outside of the oil

pump cover. The oil pump assembly is now ready

for assembly into the crankcase.

GZ362

CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Inside Diameter)

1. Insert a snap gauge into the upper connecting rod

small end bore; then remove the gauge and mea-

sure it with micrometer.

CC290D

2. Maximum diameter must not exceed specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Small End Deflection)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks and

mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact point against

the center of the connecting rod small end journal.

2. Zero the indicator and push the small end of the

connecting rod away from the dial indicator.

3. Maximum deflection must not exceed specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Side-to-Side)

1. Push the lower end of the connecting rod to one

side of the crankshaft journal.

2. Using a feeler gauge, measure the gap between the

connecting rod and crankshaft journal.

3. Acceptable gap range must be within specifica-

tions.

Measuring Connecting Rod

(Big End Width)

1. Using a calipers, measure the width of the con-

necting rod at the big-end bearing.

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

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Measuring Crankshaft (Runout)

1. Place the crankshaft on a set of V blocks.

2. Mount a dial indicator and base on the surface

plate. Position the indicator contact at point 1 of

the crankshaft.

ATV-1074

3. Zero the indicator and rotate the crankshaft slowly.

4. Maximum runout must not exceed specifications.

NOTE: Proceed to check runout on the other end

of the crankshaft by positioning the indicator con-

tact at point 2 and following steps 3-4.

Measuring Crankshaft

(Web-to-Web)

1. Using a calipers, measure the distance from the

outside edge of one web to the outside edge of the

other web.

ATV-1017

2. Acceptable width range must be within specifica-

tions.

COUNTERSHAFT

GZ281A

Disassembling

1. Remove the shift forks noting the positions for

assembling; then remove the high driven gear

outer washer, high driven gear, high driven gear

bearing, high driven gear bushing, and high driven

gear inner washer.

GZ283A

2. Remove the drive gear; then remove the snap ring

securing the reverse driven gear dog and bushing

to the countershaft.

! CAUTION

Care should be taken to support the connecting rod

when rotating the crankshaft.

! CAUTION

When disassembling the countershaft, care must be

taken to note the direction each major component

(dog, gear) faces. If a major component is installed

facing the wrong direction, transmission damage may

occur and/or the transmission will malfunction. In

either case, complete disassembly and assembly will

be required.

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GZ296

GZ312

3. Remove the reverse driven gear dog.

GZ313A

4. Remove the snap ring securing the reverse driven

gear and washer; then remove the washer and gear.

GZ314

5. Remove the reverse driven washer; then remove

the low driven gear locking washer.

GZ320

GZ319

GZ318A

6. Remove the low driven gear. Account for a bear-

ing, bushing, and thrust washer.

GZ316

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Assembling

1. From the drive gear end, install a thrust washer,

bushing, and bearing; then install the low driven

gear and washer.

GZ317A

GZ318

2. Install the low driven gear locking washer; then

install the inner reverse driven gear washer.

GZ319B

GZ320B

3. Install the reverse driven bushing and bearing;

then install the reverse driven gear.

GZ286A

GZ287

4. Install the outer reverse driven washer; then secure

the reverse driven gear assembly with a snap ring.

GZ288A

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GZ314

5. Install the reverse driven gear dog onto the coun-

tershaft and secure with a snap ring.

GZ313A

GZ312

6. From the opposite end of the countershaft, install

the high/low driven gear dog (A), thrust washer

(B), bushing (C), bearing (D), high/low driven

gear (E), and spacer washer (F).

GZ283B

7. Install the two drive gear washers and the shift

forks. The countershaft is now ready for installa-

tion.

Assembling Crankcase

Half

1. Install the oil pump gerotor assembly and oil pump

cover in the crankcase and secure with two cap

screws. Coat the threads with blue Loctite #243

and tighten securely to 8 ft-lb.

GZ305

2. Install a flat washer, drive pin, and drive gear onto

the oil pump shaft; then secure with a snap ring

(flat-side away from the gear).

GZ347

3. Install the water pump drive gear, driveshaft, and

drive pin; then install the countershaft into the

crankcase and secure with a snap ring (flat-side

away from the bearing).

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GZ304A

GZ328A

4. Install the countershaft gear onto the countershaft

and secure with a snap ring (flat-side away from

the gear).

5. Using rubber bands to support the connecting rods,

carefully install the crankshaft assembly into the

crankcase.

GZ330

NOTE: It will be necessary to rotate the crank-

shaft back and forth to engage the teeth of the oil

pump and countershaft gears.

6. Install the driveshaft; then with a flat washer on

each end of the reverse idler assembly, install into

the crankcase.

GZ332

GZ333

7. Install the gear shift shaft into the crankcase mak-

ing sure the flat washer is in place on the gear shift

position switch end and the bearing assembly on

the gear shift stop end.

GZ334A

GZ335

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8. Place two flat washers on the drive gear end of the

countershaft and one flat washer on the high

driven gear end; then with shift forks and shift fork

shaft, install the countershaft assembly into the

crankcase.

GZ280A

GZ336

9. Engage the shift forks into the gear shift shaft and

push the shift fork shaft into the crankcase.

GZ339

The right-side crankcase is now ready for installation

to the left-side crankcase.

Joining Crankcase

Halves

1. Using rubber bands, support the connecting rods to

align with the cylinder bores.

GZ340

2. Coat both sides with motor oil; then install the

spacer washer on the crankshaft with the radius

directed toward the crankshaft.

GZ341

3. Install the two alignment pins; then apply a thin

bead of silicone sealant to the crankcase mating

surface.

GZ345A

4. Carefully join the crankcase halves by placing the

left-side crankcase onto the assembled right side.

Secure with the cap screws (eight left side and one

right side).

 AT THIS POINT

Proper transmission shifting should be verified by

turning the gear shift shaft to select High, Low, Neu-

tral, and Reverse while rotating the input shaft and

observing the countershaft rotation.

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GZ342

5. Tighten the cap screws to 8 ft-lb using the pattern

shown and turning the shafts frequently to ensure

there is no binding.

NOTE: Rotate the shafts back and forth to ensure

no binding or sticking occurs.

GZ375A

NOTE: Cap screw number eight (8) is installed

from the right side.

NOTE: If the secondary drive/driven assemblies

have been disassembled, refer to Servicing Center

Crankcase Components for proper gear tooth con-

tact and backlash.

6. Install the locating ring in the crankcase assembly;

then install the secondary driven shaft assembly

and secondary drive assembly making sure the

locating ring and bearing engage correctly.

GZ269A

GZ322B

7. Install two locating pins into the upper crankcase

assembly; then apply a thin bead of silicone seal-

ant to the lower crankcase cover.

GZ322A

GZ265

8. Carefully place the lower crankcase cover onto the

joined crankcase halves; then secure with the cap

screws. Tighten the 6 mm cap screws to 8 ft-lb and

the 8 mm cap screws to 20 ft-lb.

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GZ321

9. Install the oil screen; then apply a thin bead of sili-

cone sealant to the oil strainer cap and secure with

the cap screws. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

Installing

Engine/Transmission

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends that new gaskets

and O-rings be installed whenever servicing the

ATV.

1. Turn the front driveline to place the output drive

yoke universal joint in the horizontal plane; then

secure the driveshaft to the right and against the

engine.

GZ117A

2. Install the engine/transmission into the frame from

the right side.

3. Rotate the driveshaft 90°; then lift the front of the

engine sufficiently to engage the splined shaft into

the front differential. Lower the front of the

engine.

GZ110A

GZ119

4. Align the rear output drive flange and the rear

driveshaft yoke flange and install the cap screws.

Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

5. Align the engine with the mounting brackets and

install the through-bolts with flat washers; then

install the flange nuts and tighten to 45 ft-lb.

6. Connect the coolant hose and tighten the clamps

securely.

7. Secure the engine and harness grounds to the

engine and tighten the cap screw to 8 ft-lb.

GZ064A

8. Install the ignition coils and tighten the cap screws

to 7 ft-lb; then connect the primary wires, grounds,

and spark plug caps.

9. Connect the stator coil connector and crankshaft

position sensor connector; then connect the gear

shift position switch connector.

 AT THIS POINT

After completing center crankcase components, pro-

ceed to Installing Right-Side Components, to Install-

ing Left-Side Components, and to Installing Top-Side

Components.

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GZ069A

GZ368A

10. Install the front the rear exhaust pipes with new

grafoil seals and tighten the retaining nuts to 20

ft-lb; then install the muffler and connect all

exhaust juncture springs.

GZ099A

GZ372

11. Install the intake manifolds and tighten to 8 ft-lb;

then install the throttle body and secure with the

hose clamps.

GZ106

GZ107

GZ090B

12. Connect the fuel injector, TPS connector (A),

MAP sensor connector (B), and ISC valve connec-

tor (C).

GZ094A

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13. Install the shift linkage with bushings and secure

with E-clips.

14. Connect the gasline hose connectors to the fuel

rails; then install any nylon ties that were removed

during disassembly.

GZ124

15. Install the air filter housing and secure to the throt-

tle body with a hose clamp; then connect the IAT

sensor connector.

GZ013

16. Install the V-belt cooling duct and boots. Tighten

securely.

17. Install the front body panel, footrests, foot wells,

and front rack; then install the upper bumper sup-

port-to-frame cap screws (see section 8).

18. Connect the negative battery cable; then secure the

battery with the tool tray and install the seat.

19. Pour in the proper quantities of engine/transmis-

sion oil and coolant; then start the engine and

warm up to operating temperature.

20. Check for fluid leaks; then shut off engine and

check fluid levels (see Section 2).

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SECTION 4 -

FUEL/LUBRICATION/COOLING

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Fuel/Lubrication/Cooling ......................................... 4-2

Carburetor Specifications (400/500)........................ 4-2

Carburetor Schematics (400/500) ........................... 4-2

Carburetor (400/500)............................................... 4-2

Electric Choke (400/500)......................................... 4-7

Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI Models) .................... 4-8

Throttle Cable Free-Play ....................................... 4-10

Engine RPM (Idle)................................................. 4-11

Gas Tank ............................................................... 4-11

Oil Filter/Oil Pump ................................................. 4-12

Testing Oil Pump Pressure.................................... 4-12

Oil Cooler (400/700/H2 Models)............................ 4-12

Liquid Cooling System (500/H1/H2 Models) ......... 4-13

Electric Fuel Pump/Fuel Level Sensor

(EFI Models) ...................................................... 4-18

Vacuum Pulse Fuel Pump (500)............................ 4-20

Troubleshooting (400/500)..................................... 4-21

Troubleshooting (EFI Models) ............................... 4-21

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Fuel/Lubrication/

Cooling

NOTE: Arctic Cat recommends the use of new

gaskets, lock nuts, and seals and lubricating all

internal components when servicing the

engine/transmission.

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used

in this section are used for clarity purposes only

and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located

in Section 1.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the

technician when performing service procedures in this

section. Refer to the current Special Tools Catalog for

the appropriate tool description.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Parts Department.

Carburetor

Specifications

(400/500)

Carburetor Schematics

(400/500)

0740-600

Carburetor

(400/500)

REMOVING

1. Remove the seat.

2. As necessary to access the carburetor, remove the

air-intake snorkel, the air filter housing cover, or

the air filter housing.

3. Disconnect the gasline hose from the carburetor to

the fuel pump.

4. Loosen the flange clamps; then remove the carbu-

retor from the intake pipe.

5. Remove the screw securing the throttle actuator

cover to the carburetor; then remove the cover.

Description p/n

Oil Pressure Test Kit 0644-495

Seal Removal Tool 0644-072

Tachometer 0644-275

Electric Choke Test Harness 0444-247

Item 400 500

Carburetor Keihin CVK34 Keihin CVK36

Main Jet 138 138

Slow Jet 40 40

Pilot Screw Setting (turns) 1 3/4 1 3/4

Jet Needle NAZG NFKG

Idle RPM (engine warm) 1250-1350 1250-1350

Starter Jet 75 85

Float Arm Height 17 mm (0.7 in.) 17 mm (0.7 in.)

Throttle Cable Free-Play

(at lever)

3-6 mm

(1/8-1/4 in.)

3-6 mm

(1/8-1/4 in.)

! WARNING

Whenever any maintenance or inspection is per-

formed on the fuel system during which there may be

fuel leakage, there should be no welding, smoking,

open flames, etc., in the area.

KEY

1. Cover

2. Screw

3. Spring

4. Vacuum Piston

5. Spring Seat

6. Jet Needle

7. Needle Jet

8. Jet Holder

9. Main Jet

10. Slow Jet

11. Starter Jet

12. Float Valve

13. Clip

14. Float

15. Float Pin

16. Pilot Screw

17. Spring

18. Washer

19. O-Ring

20. Idle Adjust Screw

21. Washer

22. Spring

23. Plate

24. Screw

25. Electric Choke

26. Choke Cover

27. Float Chamber

Assy

28. O-Ring

29. Screw

30. Spring

31. Diaphragm Assy

32. Pump Housing

33. U-Ring

34. Screw

35. Screw

36. Throttle Cable

37. Cover

38. Screw

39. Vent Hose

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PR154B

6. Remove the throttle cable from the actuator arm.

PR162C

7. Loosen the outer jam nut securing the throttle

cable to the carburetor body; then route the cable

out of the way.

PR162B

8. Disconnect the electric choke lead from the wiring

harness.

9. Disconnect the vent hose; then remove the carbu-

retor.

DISASSEMBLING

1. Remove the four Phillips-head screws securing the

top cover; then remove the cover.

CH015D

2. Remove the vacuum piston assembly from the car-

buretor body. Account for a spring, spring seat,

and the jet needle.

CC746

3. Remove the three screws securing the pump hous-

ing. Account for the diaphragm assembly, spring,

and U-ring (in the housing).

CC748

4. Remove the Phillips-head screws securing the

float chamber; then remove the chamber. Account

for the O-ring.

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CC749

CC750

5. Remove the float pin.

CC752

6. Lift the float assembly from the carburetor.

Account for the float valve.

CC753

NOTE: Note the locations of the jets, pilot screw,

and holder for disassembling procedures.

CC761A

7. Secure the needle jet holder with a wrench; then

remove the main jet.

8. Remove the needle jet holder; then remove the

needle jet, slow jet, and the starter jet.

9. Remove the pilot screw. Account for a spring,

washer, and an O-ring.

CC758

10. Unscrew and remove the idle adjust screw.

Account for the spring and washer.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Place all metallic components in a wire basket and

submerge in carburetor cleaner.

2. Soak for 30 minutes; then rinse with clean, hot

water.

3. Wash all non-metallic components with soap and

water. Rinse thoroughly.

! WARNING

When drying components with compressed air,

always wear safety glasses.

! CAUTION

DO NOT place any non-metallic components in

parts-cleaning solvent because damage or deteriora-

tion will result.

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4-5

4. Dry all components with compressed air only

making sure all holes, orifices, and channels are

unobstructed.

5. Inspect the carburetor body for cracks, nicks,

stripped threads, and any imperfections in the cast-

ing.

6. Inspect the vacuum piston/diaphragm for cracks,

imperfections in the casting, or cracks and tears in

the rubber.

7. Inspect float for damage.

8. Inspect gasket and O-rings for distortion, tears, or

noticeable damage.

9. Inspect tips of the jet needle, pilot screw, and the

needle jet for wear, damage, or distortion.

10. Inspect the slow jet and main jet for obstructions

or damage.

NOTE: If the slow jet is obstructed, the mixture

will be extremely lean at idle and part-throttle oper-

ation.

11. Inspect the float valve for wear or damage.

12. Inspect the carburetor mounting flange for damage

and tightness.

ASSEMBLING

1. Thread the idle adjust screw into the carburetor

making sure the washer and spring are properly

positioned.

2. Install the pilot screw, spring, washer, and O-ring.

CC758

NOTE: Turn the pilot screw clockwise until it is

lightly seated; then turn it counterclockwise the

recommended number of turns as an initial set-

ting.

NOTE: Note the locations of the jets and holder

during assembling procedures.

CC761A

3. Install the slow jet. Tighten securely.

4. Install the main jet into the needle jet holder and

tighten securely; then install the needle jet and

needle jet holder assembly into the carburetor and

tighten securely.

5. Place the float assembly (with float valve) into

position and secure to the carburetor with the float

pin.

CC753

NOTE: Check float arm height by placing the car-

buretor on its side w/float contacting the needle;

then measure with a caliper the height when the

float arm is in contact with the needle valve. Float

arm height should be 17 mm (0.7 in.).

6. Place the float chamber into position making sure

the O-ring is properly positioned; then secure with

the Phillips-head screws.

CC750

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CC749

7. Place the U-ring into the pump housing. Position

the spring and diaphragm assembly (lip toward the

carburetor) onto the carburetor; then secure the

assembly with the pump housing and three screws.

Tighten securely.

CC748

8. Place the jet needle, spring seat, and spring into

the vacuum piston; then place the assembly down

into the carburetor.

CC746

9. Place the top cover into position; then secure with

the Phillips-head screws. Tighten securely.

CH015D

INSTALLING

1. Connect the gas and vent hoses onto the carbure-

tor.

2. Connect the electric choke lead to the wiring har-

ness.

CC740A

3. Place the throttle cable into position and secure by

tightening the outer jam nut.

PR162B

4. Connect the throttle cable to the actuator arm.

! CAUTION

It is important to press down on the pump housing

until it contacts the carburetor to make sure the dia-

phragm lip is properly seated in the groove in the car-

buretor. If the diaphragm is not properly seated,

leakage will occur.

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PR162C

5. Place the throttle actuator cover into position on

the carburetor; then secure with the screw.

PR154B

6. Position the carburetor in the air cleaner boot and

intake pipe assembly; then secure with the clamps.

7. Connect the hose from the carburetor to the gas

tank.

8. As necessary, secure the air-intake snorkel, the air

filter housing cover, or the air filter housing.

9. Install the seat.

Electric Choke

(400/500)

REMOVING

1. Disconnect the electric choke connector from the

wiring harness; then remove the screw securing

the choke body to the carburetor.

2. Carefully remove the choke assembly from the

carburetor taking care not to force the plunger

from the carburetor body.

INSPECTING/TESTING

1. Inspect the plunger (A) for scoring or scratches,

the needle (B) for damage to the tip, the spring (C)

for breakage, and the O-ring (D) for breaks.

KC328A

2. With the choke at room temperature (approxi-

mately 70° F), measure plunger extension. Mea-

surement (A) should be 18.6-19.1 mm.

KC328B

3. Connect Electric Choke Test Harness to the choke

connector and a suitable 12 DC volt power supply

for 2-3 minutes. Disconnect the power and mea-

sure plunger extension. Measurement (B) should

be 22.1-23.4 mm.

KC328C

4. If the choke is damaged or the measurements are

not within specifications, the choke must be

replaced.

INSTALLING

1. Lightly lubricate the O-ring on the choke body;

then carefully insert the choke assembly into the

carburetor being careful not to damage the

plunger.

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4-8

2. Secure the choke with the screw and tighten

securely; then connect the choke connector to the

wiring harness.

Electronic Fuel Injection

(EFI Models)

TROUBLESHOOTING

1. Verify that the electric fuel pump is operating by

listening for a “whirring” sound for several sec-

onds after the ignition switch is turned to the ON

position. If no sound can be heard, see Electric

Fuel Pump/Fuel Level Sensor (EFI Models) in this

section.

2. Check for a flashing EFI icon on the LCD. If EFI

is flashing, see ECU Error Codes (EFI Models) in

Section 5.

3. Make sure there is sufficient, clean gas in the gas

tank.

4. Verify that the battery is sufficiently charged to

crank the engine over at normal speed.

5. Check the air filter housing and air filter for con-

tamination. Clean or replace as necessary (see

Section 2).

REMOVING (H1 Models)

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position; then

remove the ignition switch key.

2. Disconnect the battery; then remove the seat.

3. Remove the storage compartment cover and air fil-

ter housing cover; then remove the air filter.

4. Loosen the clamp securing the air filter housing

boot to the throttle body inlet; then remove the

boot from the throttle body.

FI081B

5. Slowly disconnect the gasline hose connector from

the fuel rail.

FI092A

6. Remove the screw securing the throttle actuator

cover to the throttle body; then remove the cover.

7. Remove the throttle cable from the actuator arm.

8. Loosen the outer jam nut securing the throttle

cable to the throttle body; then route the cable out

of the way.

9. Remove the four electrical connectors from the

throttle body components.

FI089A

! WARNING

Whenever any maintenance or inspection is per-

formed on the fuel system during which there may be

fuel leakage, there should be no welding, smoking,

open flames, etc., in the area.

! WARNING

Do not turn the ignition switch to the ON position with

the hoses removed. Gasoline will be pumped by the

electric fuel pump causing a safety hazard.

! WARNING

Gasoline may be under pressure. Place an absorbent

towel under the connector to absorb any gasoline

spray when disconnecting.

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4-9

10. Remove the cap screws securing the intake pipe to

the cylinder head and remove the throttle body

assembly; then remove the intake pipe from the

throttle body. Account for an O-ring.

FI104A

11. Use tape to cover and seal the intake opening.

REMOVING (H2 Models)

1. Remove the front rack and body panel (see Section

8).

2. Disconnect the wires from the IAT sensor; then

loosen the clamp and remove the inlet air boot

from the air filter housing.

GZ379

GZ091A

3. Loosen the clamp on the throttle body intake boot;

then remove the air filter housing from the ATV.

4. Disconnect the three wiring connectors from the

sensors on the throttle body; then remove the cap

screws securing the throttle body to the intake

manifold.

GZ094B

GZ381A

5. Remove the throttle arm cover and disconnect the

throttle cable; then remove the throttle body from

the ATV.

! CAUTION

Any objects or liquid entering the intake opening will

fall into the engine causing severe damage if the

engine is turned over or started.

! WARNING

Whenever the gasline hoses are removed (other than

for pressure testing), the battery must be discon-

nected to prevent inadvertent activation of the elec-

tronic fuel pump.

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4-10

GZ383A

6. Use tape to cover and seal the intake opening.

INSTALLING (H1 Models)

1. Install the throttle body into the intake pipe and

secure with the clamp. Tighten securely.

2. Place a new O-ring in the intake pipe; then posi-

tion the pipe onto the engine and secure with two

cap screws.

3. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle body and

adjust throttle free-play (see Section 2); then con-

nect the gasline hose.

4. Connect the four electrical connectors to the throt-

tle body components.

5. Install the air filter housing boot and secure with the

clamp; then install the air filter, air filter cover, stor-

age compartment, and storage compartment cover.

6. Install the seat making sure it locks securely in

place.

INSTALLING (H2 Models)

1. Connect the throttle cable to the throttle body; then

remove the tape from the intake manifold and

install the throttle body using a new O-ring.

Tighten the cap screws securely.

GZ381A

2. Connect the three wiring connectors to the sen-

sors; then install the air filter housing and connect

all hoses. Tighten all clamps securely.

GZ094B

GZ091A

3. Connect the wiring connector to the IAT sensor

4. Install the front rack and body panel (see Section 8).

5. Install the seat making sure it locks securely in

place.

Throttle Cable Free-Play

To adjust the throttle cable free-play, follow this proce-

dure.

1. Slide the rubber boot away; then loosen the jam

nut from the throttle cable adjuster.

AL611D

! CAUTION

Any objects or liquid entering the intake opening will

fall into the engine causing severe damage if the

engine is turned over or started.

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4-11

2. Turn the adjuster until the throttle cable has proper

free-play of 3-6 mm (1/8-1/4 in.) at the lever.

ATV-0047

3. Tighten the jam nut against the throttle cable

adjuster securely; then slide the rubber boot over

the adjuster.

Engine RPM (Idle)

NOTE: The idle RPM is not adjustable on the EFI

models.

To properly adjust the idle RPM, a tachometer is nec-

essary. To adjust idle RPM, use the following proce-

dure.

NOTE: The idle adjustment screw is located on

the right-hand side of the carburetor.

1. With the transmission in neutral, start the engine

and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

2. Turn the idle adjustment screw clockwise one turn

past the recommended RPM setting; then turn it

counterclockwise to 1250-1350 RPM.

AF920D

Gas Tank

REMOVING

1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the rear rack and fenders (see Section 8).

3. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pump to the car-

buretor/throttle body.

4. Remove the cap screws securing the gas tank to

the frame.

5. Disconnect the fuel gauge connector; then remove

the gas tank.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all gas tank components with parts-cleaning

solvent.

2. Inspect all hoses for cracks or leaks.

3. Inspect tank cap and tank for leaks, holes, and

damaged threads.

4. Remove the fuel level sensor/fuel pick-up assem-

bly and inspect the fuel level sensor and fuel

screen.

NOTE: If the fuel level sensor has failed or may

be faulty, see Electric Fuel Pump/Fuel Level Sen-

sor (EFI Models) in this section.

INSTALLING

1. Install the fuel level sensor/fuel pick-up assembly.

2. Place the gas tank into position in the frame; then

install the cap screws. Tighten securely.

3. Connect the gas hose from the carburetor/throttle

body; then connect the fuel gauge connector.

4. Install the vent hose; then fill the gas tank with

gasoline.

5. Start the engine and inspect for leakage.

6. Install the rear fenders and rack; then install the

seat making sure it latches securely.

! WARNING

Adjust the idle to the correct RPM. Make sure the

engine is at normal operating temperature before

adjusting the idle RPM.

! WARNING

Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on

the fuel system during which there may be fuel leak-

age, there should be no welding, smoking, open

flames, etc., in the area.

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4-12

Oil Filter/Oil Pump

NOTE: Whenever internal engine components

wear excessively or break and whenever oil is con-

taminated, the oil pump should be replaced. The

oil pump is not a serviceable component.

Testing Oil Pump

Pressure

NOTE: The engine must be warmed up to the

specified temperature for this test.

1. Connect the Tachometer to the engine or utilize

the LCD (if equipped).

2. Connect the Oil Pressure Test Kit to the oil filter

drain plug (400/500), the oil pressure test port (H1

models), or the oil cooler to oil filter line (H2

models).

KC195B

CD457D

CF264B

GZ388A

NOTE: Some oil seepage may occur when install-

ing the oil pressure gauge. Wipe up oil residue

with a cloth.

3. Start the engine and run at 3000 RPM. With the oil

temperature at 60° C (140° F), the oil pressure

gauge must read as specified.

NOTE: If the oil pressure is lower than specified,

check for low oil level, defective oil pump, or

restricted oil cooler.

NOTE: If the oil pressure is higher than specified,

check for too heavy engine oil weight (see Section

2), clogged oil passage, clogged oil filter, or

improper installation of the oil filter.

Oil Cooler

(400/700/H2 Models)

REMOVING

NOTE: It is not necessary to drain the engine oil

for this procedure.

400/500/700 H2 Models

1.05-1.76 kg/cm² (15-25 psi) 0.7-1.4kg/cm² (10-20 psi)

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4-13

1. Remove the input and output hoses from the fit-

tings on the cooler.

2. Remove the cap screws securing the oil cooler to

the frame. Account for grommets.

AL651D

3. Remove the oil cooler from the frame.

INSTALLING

1. Place the cooler into position in the frame.

2. Secure the cooler to the frame with the cap screws

and grommets.

3. Install the hoses onto their respective fittings and

secure with the clamps.

Liquid Cooling System

(500/H1/H2 Models)

When filling the cooling system, use premixed Arctic

Cat Antifreeze. While the cooling system is being

filled, air pockets may develop; therefore, run the

engine for five minutes after the initial fill, shut the

engine off, and then fill the cooling system to the bot-

tom of the stand pipe in the radiator neck.

RADIATOR

Removing

1. Drain the coolant at the engine.

2. Remove the front rack (see Section 8).

3. Remove the front bumper and front fender panel

(see Section 8).

4. Remove the upper and lower coolant hoses.

5. Remove the cap screws and nuts securing the radi-

ator to the frame.

6. Disconnect the fan wiring from the main wiring

harness; then remove the radiator/fan assembly

and account for the grommets and collars.

7. Remove the fan/fan shroud assembly from the

radiator.

CC863

Cleaning and Inspecting

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Flush the radiator with water to remove any con-

taminants.

2. Inspect the radiator for leaks and damage.

3. Inspect all hoses for cracks and deterioration.

4. Inspect all fasteners and grommets for damage or

wear.

Installing

1. Position the fan/fan shroud assembly on the radia-

tor; then secure with existing hardware.

2. Place the radiator with grommets and collars into

position on the frame; then install the cap screws

and nuts. Tighten securely.

3. Install the upper and lower coolant hoses; then

secure with hose clamps.

! CAUTION

Elevate and secure the hoses to avoid oil spillage.

! CAUTION

After operating the ATV for the initial 5-10 minutes,

stop the engine, allow the engine to cool down, and

check the coolant level. Add coolant as necessary.

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4-14

AF734D

4. Install the front bumper and front fender panel.

5. Install the front rack.

6. Fill the cooling system with the recommended

amount of antifreeze. Check for leakage.

7. Connect the fan wiring to the main wiring harness.

HOSES/THERMOSTAT

Removing (500/H1 Models)

1. Drain approximately one quart of coolant from the

cooling system.

2. Remove the two cap screws securing the thermo-

stat housing to the cylinder head. Account for an

O-ring and a thermostat.

Removing (H2 Models)

NOTE: The thermostat is located in a housing

in-line with the upper radiator hoses under the air

filter housing.

GZ036A

1. Drain approximately one quart of coolant from the

cooling system.

2. Remove the machine screws securing the thermo-

stat housing together. Remove the thermostat and

account for an O-ring.

Inspecting

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Inspect the thermostat for corrosion or spring damage.

2. Using the following procedure, inspect the ther-

mostat for proper operation.

A. Suspend the thermostat in a container filled with

water.

B. Heat the water and monitor the temperature

with a thermometer.

C. The thermostat should start to open at

73.5-76.5° C (164-170° F).

D. If the thermostat does not open, it must be

replaced.

3. Inspect all coolant hoses, connections, and clamps

for deterioration, cracks, and wear.

NOTE: All coolant hoses and clamps should be

replaced every four years or 4000 miles.

Installing (500/H1 Models)

1. Place the thermostat and O-ring into the thermo-

stat housing; then secure the thermostat housing to

the cylinder head with the two cap screws.

2. Install the crossover coolant hose onto the water

pump and engine water inlet. Secure with the two

hose clamps.

3. Slide the upper hose onto the thermostat housing

and radiator. Secure with the two hose clamps.

4. Install the lower coolant hose onto the water pump

housing and radiator. Secure with the two hose

clamps.

5. Fill the cooling system with the recommended

amount of antifreeze. Check for leakage.

Installing (H2 Models)

1. Place the thermostat and O-ring into the thermo-

stat housing; then secure the thermostat housing

together with the four machine screws.

2. Fill the cooling system with the recommended

amount of antifreeze. Check for leakage.

COOLING FAN

Removing

1. Remove the radiator (see Liquid Cooling System

in this section).

2. Remove the fan assembly from the radiator.

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4-15

Installing

1. Position the fan assembly on the radiator; then

secure with existing hardware.

NOTE: The fan wiring must be in the upper-right

position.

2. Install the radiator.

WATER PUMP

(500 - Manual Transmission)

Removing/Disassembling

0738-290

1. Drain the coolant.

2. Remove the three cap screws securing the water

pump case. Note the position of the long cap screw

and account for the O-ring.

3. Remove the impeller cap screw, washer, and gas-

ket.

4. Remove the mechanical seal using this procedure.

A. Tap the tip of a small sheet metal screw into the

inner-metal edge of the seal.

B. Grip the screw with a pair of vise-grip pliers

and pull the seal out. Account for the pump

drive seal.

Cleaning and Inspecting

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all pump components in solvent.

2. Inspect the mechanical seal and pump drive seal

for damage.

NOTE: If the mechanical seal and/or pump drive

seal are damaged, they must be replaced as a set.

3. Inspect the impeller for corrosion or damage.

Assembling/Installing

NOTE: Treat seals and O-rings with clean anti-

freeze for initial lubrication.

1. Press the mechanical seal with pump drive seal

into the impeller by hand.

2. Install the mechanical seal assembly onto the

water pump shaft and secure with the cap screw,

washer, and gasket. Tighten the cap screw

securely.

3. Place the water pump case into position and secure

with the three cap screws. Note the position of the

long cap screw from removal.

4. Fill the cooling system with the recommended

amount of antifreeze.

NOTE: While the cooling system is being filled,

air pockets may develop; therefore, run the engine

for five minutes after the initial fill, shut the engine

off, and then fill the cooling system.

5. Check the entire cooling system for leakage.

WATER PUMP (500 - Automatic

Transmission/H1 Models)

NOTE: On the H1 models, the water pump is a

non-serviceable component. It must be replaced

as an assembly.

NOTE: On the 500 when servicing the water

pump, it will be necessary to install a new oil seal

and a new mechanical seal.

Removing

1. Remove the radiator cap; then remove the water

pump drain and drain the coolant.

CC789

2. Drain the oil from the engine/transmission.

3. Remove the four torx-head cap screws securing

the front and rear fenders to the footrest; then

remove the four cap screws securing the footrest to

the frame. Remove the footrest.

KEY

1. Case

2. Cap Screw

3. Gasket

4. O-Ring

5. Impeller

6. Mechanical Seal

7. Seal

8. Cap Screw

9. Washer

10. Washer

11. Cap Screw

12. Cap Screw

13. Shaft w/Bearing

14. Joint

15. Pin

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4-16

4. Loosen the hose clamps and slide the clamps away

from the hose ends approximately 2 in.; then

remove both hoses from the water pump.

5. Using an impact driver, loosen but do not remove

the two Phillips-head cover screws.

CC785A

6. Remove the two cap screws securing the water

pump to the engine; then remove the water pump.

CC786A

Disassembling

1. Finish removing the two Phillips-head cap screws

securing the cover to the bearing housing; then

remove the cover. Account for the O-ring.

2. Remove the E-ring securing the impeller/shaft to

the bearing housing; then remove the impel-

ler/shaft.

3. Using Seal Removal Tool, remove the mechanical

seal and the oil seal from the bearing housing.

CC772

Cleaning and Inspecting

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all oil-pump components in cleaning sol-

vent.

2. Inspect the impeller/shaft for corrosion or damage.

Assembling

1. Place the new oil seal into the bearing housing;

then using a seal driver, gently tap the seal down

until it is fully seated.

CC778

2. Place the new mechanical seal into the bearing

housing; then tap it down until it is fully seated.

NOTE: A large deep-well socket can be used to

drive the seal down evenly.

3. Install the impeller/shaft assembly into the bearing

housing; then secure with the E-ring.

NOTE: Make sure the E-ring is fully seated and

the impeller rotates freely.

4. While holding the bearing housing assembly in

position on the engine, slowly rotate the impeller

until the impeller/shaft engages properly with its

slot in the driven shaft.

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4-17

NOTE: The bearing housing will be flush with the

engine when the two shafts are properly engaged.

5. With the bearing housing assembly in position on

the engine, place the cover (with O-ring installed)

into position on the housing; then loosely secure

with the two Phillips-head cap screws.

Installing

1. Secure the water pump to the engine with the two

cap screws tightened securely; then tighten the two

Phillips-head cap screws securely.

CC786A

CC785A

2. Connect the two coolant hoses to the water pump

and secure with the clamps. Tighten securely.

3. Place the footrest into position on the frame and

loosely secure with four cap screws; then secure

the front and rear fenders to the footrest with the

four torx-head cap screws. Tighten the four

torx-head cap screws securely; then tighten the

remaining cap screws to 20 ft-lb.

4. Fill the engine/transmission with the proper

amount of recommended oil.

5. Fill the cooling system with the proper amount of

recommended coolant.

NOTE: While the cooling system is being filled,

air pockets may develop; therefore, run the engine

for five minutes after the initial fill, shut the engine

off, and then fill the cooling system.

6. Check the entire cooling system for leakage.

WATER PUMP (H2 Models)

NOTE: The water pump is a non-serviceable

component. It must be replaced as an assembly.

Removing

1. Remove the coolant drain plug; then remove the

radiator cap and drain the coolant into a suitable

container.

GZ093A

NOTE: Always use a large container and have

sufficient floor drying material available when

draining the coolant in case of coolant spillage.

2. Remove the coolant hoses from the water pump;

then remove two cap screws securing the water

pump to the crankcase.

GZ230A

3. Remove the water pump from the engine.

! CAUTION

Failure to properly engage the two shafts could cause

serious engine damage.

! CAUTION

After operating the ATV for the initial 5-10 minutes,

stop the engine, allow the engine to cool down, and

check the coolant level. Add coolant as necessary.

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4-18

Installing

1. Install a new O-ring onto the water pump and

lightly coat with clean engine oil.

GZ252C

2. Install the water pump assembly onto the engine

aligning the flat drive on the water pump to the

slot in the driveshaft.

GZ252D

3. Secure the water pump with the two cap screws

and tighten securely; then connect the coolant

hoses and secure with hose clamps.

4. Tighten the coolant drain plug securely; then fill

the cooling system with appropriate mixed coolant

and install the radiator cap.

5. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks; then

add coolant if necessary to proper level.

Electric Fuel Pump/

Fuel Level Sensor

(EFI Models)

The electric fuel pump and fuel level sensor are not

serviceable components. If either component fails, it

must be replaced.

TESTING

1. Turn the ignition switch ON and listen for a

momentary “whirring” sound of the pump build-

ing pressure. If the sound is heard (10 seconds), no

electrical checks are necessary. Turn the ignition

switch OFF.

2. Disconnect the gasline hose from the throttle

body; then install a suitable pressure gauge.

FI092A

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

fuel pressure should build until the pump shuts off.

Pressure should read 3.0 kg-cm2 (43 psi).

4. If the pump is not running, disconnect the fuel

pump/tank sensor connector by reaching under the

rear rack from behind.

! CAUTION

Do not force the water pump housing into the crank-

case or sever engine damage may occur.

! CAUTION

After operating the ATV for the initial 5-10 minutes,

stop the engine, allow the engine to cool down, and

check the coolant level. Add coolant as necessary.

! WARNING

Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on

the fuel system during which there may be fuel leak-

age, there should be no welding, smoking, open

flames, etc., in the area.

 AT THIS POINT

Prior to removing the electric fuel pump, the following

check should be performed to determine that removal

is necessary.

! WARNING

Gasoline may be under pressure. Place an absorbent

towel under the connector to absorb any gasoline

spray when disconnecting.

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4-19

5. Connect a multimeter to the power supply leads

with the red tester lead to the red wire and the

black tester lead to the black wire; then turn the

ignition switch to the ON position. The meter

should read battery voltage. If battery voltage is

indicated and the fuel pump does not run, replace

the pump assembly. If no battery voltage is indi-

cated, check the ECU and the vehicle tilt sensor.

REMOVING

1. Remove the rear rack and fenders (see Section 8);

then disconnect the power supply/fuel hose con-

nector.

2. Remove the spring clamp; then remove the fuel

hose.

3. Remove the screws securing the fuel pump to the

gas tank; then make a reference mark on the fuel

pump and tank.

4. Lift out the fuel pump assembly carefully tilting it

forward to clear the voltage regulator; then guide

the pump and float lever through the opening in

the gas tank.

5. Using duct tape or other suitable means, cover the

fuel pump opening.

INSPECTING

1. Inspect the fuel screen and blow clean with low

pressure compressed air.

2. Move the float lever and check for free movement.

The float assembly should return to the lower posi-

tion without force. If not, replace the fuel pump

assembly.

3. Test the fuel level sensor by connecting a multime-

ter (A) to the fuel level sensor leads (B); then

select OHMS. The multimeter should show 5

ohms at full fuel position (C) and 95 ohms at

empty fuel position (D).

ATV2116

NOTE: If readings are erratic, clean the resistor

wiper and resistor with clean alcohol and retest. If

still not correct, replace the fuel level sensor.

4. To replace the fuel level sensor, use the following

procedure.

A. Disconnect the two-wire connector (A); then

press the fuel level sensor toward the top of the

fuel pump to release it from the mounting slot

(B).

FI460A

B. Engage the tabs (C) of the fuel level sensor into

the mounting slot (B) and press toward the bot-

tom of the fuel pump to latch in place; then con-

nect the two-wire connector (A).

INSTALLING

1. Mark the new fuel pump with a reference mark in

the same location as the removed pump; then place

the new gasket on the pump.

2. Remove the material covering the fuel pump open-

ing; then carefully guide the fuel pump into posi-

tion taking care not to damage the float or float

lever.

! CAUTION

Take care not to damage the float or float arm or

replacement of the entire assembly will be necessary.

 AT THIS POINT

If the pump has failed earlier test and must be

replaced, proceed to INSTALLING.

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4-20

KX190

3. Rotate the fuel pump until the match marks align;

then install the mounting screws and tighten

securely using a crisscross pattern.

NOTE: It is important to install the fuel pump with

the correct orientation to ensure adequate float

lever clearance.

4. Connect the wires, fuel hose, and spring clamp;

then turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

Note that the fuel pump runs momentarily and the

fuel gauge indicates the proper fuel level.

5. With the transmission in neutral and brake lever

lock engaged, start the engine and check for nor-

mal operation. Check for any fuel leaks.

6. Install any wire ties that were removed; then

install the rear fenders, rack, and seat making sure

the seat locks securely.

Vacuum Pulse

Fuel Pump

(500)

The vacuum pulse fuel pump is not a serviceable com-

ponent. If the pump fails, it must be replaced.

TESTING

1. Disconnect the fuel pump/carburetor hose at the

fuel pump; then connect a hose and suitable pres-

sure gauge to the fuel pump output fitting.

CD815

2. Start the engine. Fuel pump pressure should read

0.18-0.25 kg/cm2 (2.5-3.5 psi).

CD816

REMOVING

1. Remove the seat; then remove the three clamps

securing the gas hoses and vacuum hose and dis-

connect the hoses.

CD766A

2. Remove the two machine screws and flange nuts

securing the fuel pump to the electrical tray; then

remove the pump.

INSTALLING

1. Place the fuel pump into position on the electrical

tray; then secure with the machine screws and

flange nuts. Tighten securely.

2. Connect two gas hoses and one vacuum hose; then

secure with the clamps.

! WARNING

Whenever any maintenance or inspection is made on

the fuel system during which there may be fuel leak-

age, there should be no welding, smoking, open

flames, etc., in the area.

 AT THIS POINT

Prior to removing the vacuum pulse fuel pump, the fol-

lowing check should be performed to determine that

removal is necessary.

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4-21

Troubleshooting

(400/500)

Troubleshooting

(EFI Models)

Problem: Starting impaired

Condition Remedy

1. Starter jet obstructed

2. Starter jet passage obstructed

3. Carburetor leaking air

4. Gas contaminated

1. Clean jet

2. Clean passage

3. Replace gasket

4. Drain gas tank and fill with clean gas

Problem: Idling or low speed impaired

Condition Remedy

1. Slow jet obstructed - loose

2. Slow jet outlet obstructed

3. Low speed fuel screw setting incorrect

4. Float height incorrect

1. Clean - tighten jet

2. Clean outlet

3. Adjust screw

4. Adjust float height

Problem: Medium or high speed impaired

Condition Remedy

1. High RPM “cut out” against RPM limiter

2. Main jet obstructed

3. Needle jet obstructed

4. Vacuum piston not operating properly

5. Filter obstructed

6. Float height incorrect

1. Shift into higher gear - decrease RPM speed

2. Clean main jet

3. Clean needle jet

4. Check piston operation

5. Clean filter

6. Adjust float height

Problem: Overflow and fuel level fluctuations

Condition Remedy

1. Float valve worn - damaged

2. Float valve spring broken

3. Float not working properly

4. Float valve dirty

5. Float height too high - too low

1. Replace valve

2. Replace spring

3. Adjust float height - replace float

4. Clean valve

5. Adjust float height

Problem: Starting impaired

Condition Remedy

1. Gas contaminated 1. Drain gas tank and fill with clean gas

Problem: Idling or low speed impaired

Condition Remedy

1. TPS out of adjustment 1. Adjust TPS

Problem: Medium or high speed impaired

Condition Remedy

1. High RPM “cut out” against RPM limiter 1. Decrease RPM speed

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5-1

SECTION 5 -

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Electrical System..................................................... 5-2

Specifications .......................................................... 5-2

Battery..................................................................... 5-3

RPM Limiter............................................................. 5-4

Testing Electrical Components................................ 5-4

Accessory Receptacle/Connector ........................... 5-4

Brakelight Switch (Auxiliary).................................... 5-4

Brakelight Switch (Handlebar Control) .................... 5-5

Oil Temperature and Cooling Fan Switches (400)... 5-5

Coolant Temperature and Cooling Fan Switches

(500)..................................................................... 5-6

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor

(EFI Models) ....................................................... 5-6

Fan Motor ................................................................ 5-7

Power Distribution Module (PDM) ........................... 5-7

Ignition Coil ............................................................. 5-8

EFI Sensors/Components (EFI Models)................ 5-10

Speed Sensor ....................................................... 5-11

Ignition Switch ....................................................... 5-11

Handlebar Control Switches.................................. 5-12

Front Drive Selector Switch ................................... 5-13

Front Drive Selector Actuator (400/500)................ 5-14

Front Drive/Differential Lock Actuator

(H1/H2 Models).................................................. 5-14

Differential Lock Switch (500)................................ 5-15

Differential Lock Control Switch

(H1/H2 Models).................................................. 5-15

Stator Coil (400/500) ............................................. 5-15

Stator Coil/Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor

(EFI Models) ...................................................... 5-16

Starter Relay ......................................................... 5-17

Starter Motor ......................................................... 5-18

CDI Unit (400/500) ................................................ 5-22

Electronic Control Unit (ECU) (EFI Models) .......... 5-22

Regulator/Rectifier................................................. 5-22

Headlights ............................................................. 5-22

Taillight - Brakelight ............................................... 5-23

Ignition Timing....................................................... 5-23

ECU Error Codes (EFI Models)............................. 5-23

Tilt Sensor (EFI Models)........................................ 5-24

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (EFI Models) ........ 5-25

Troubleshooting ..................................................... 5-28

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5-2

Electrical System

This section has been organized into sub-sections

which show procedures for the complete servicing of

the Arctic Cat ATV electrical system.

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used

in this section are used for clarity purposes only

and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the

technician when performing service procedures in this

section. Refer to the current Special Tool Catalog for

the appropriate tool description.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Parts Department.

Specifications

Description p/n

Diagnostic Harness 0486-219

Fluke Model 73 Multimeter 0644-191

MaxiClips 0744-041

Peak Voltage Reading Adapter 0644-307

Tachometer 0644-275

Test Plug/Error Code List 0444-216

Timing Light 0644-296

400 TRV

Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @ 1500 RPM

Spark Plug Type NGK CR8E

Spark Plug Gap 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.032 in.)

Spark Plug Cap 4000-6000 ohms

Ignition Coil (primary)

Resistance

(secondary)

Less than 1 ohm

(terminal to terminal)

2900-3400 ohms (high tension -

plug cap removed - to ground)

Ignition Coil (primary/CDI)

Peak Voltage

250-375 DC volts

(black/yellow to black)

Stator Coil (trigger)

Resistance (charging)

90-110 ohms (green to blue)

Less than 1 ohm (black to black)

Peak Voltage (trigger) 7.8-9.3 volts (green to blue)

AC Generator (no load)

Output

60 AC volts @ 3000 RPM

(black to black)

Generator Output (approx) 220W @ 5000 RPM

500

Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @ 1500 RPM

Spark Plug Type NGK CR6E

Spark Plug Gap 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.032 in.)

Spark Plug Cap 8000-12,000 ohms

Ignition Coil (primary)

Resistance

(secondary)

Less than 1 ohm

(terminal to ground)

5200-7800 ohms

(high tension - plug cap removed -

to ground)

Ignition Coil (primary/CDI)

Peak Voltage

140.0-215.0 DC volts

(blue/white to ground)

Stator Coil (trigger)

Resistance (charging)

(signal)

160-240 ohms (green to blue)

Less than 1 ohm (black to black)

Less than 1 ohm (yellow to white)

Peak Voltage (trigger)

(signal)

4.2-6.3 volts (green to blue)

0.4-0.6 volts (yellow to white)

AC Generator (no load)

Output

60 AC volts @ 5000 RPM

(black to black)

Generator Output (approx) 325W @ 5000 RPM

H1 Models

Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @ 1500 RPM

Spark Plug Type NGK CPR8E

Spark Plug Gap 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.032 in.)

Spark Plug Cap 5000 ohms

Ignition Coil (primary)

Resistance

(secondary)

Less than 1 ohm

(terminal (+) to terminal (-))

12k-19k ohms (high tension - plug

cap to terminal (+))

Ignition Coil Primary Voltage Battery Voltage

(orange (+) to blue/white(-))

Stator Coil Resistance

(crankshaft position sensor)

(AC generator)

150-250 ohms (blue to white)

Less than 1 ohm (yellow to yellow)

Crankshaft Position Sensor

AC Voltage

5.0 volts or more (blue to green)

AC Generator (no load)

Output

75 AC volts @ 5000 RPM

(yellow to yellow)

H2 Models

Ignition Timing 10° BTDC @ 1500 RPM

Spark Plug Type NGK CPR8E (2)

Spark Plug Gap 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.032 in.)

Spark Plug Cap 5000 ohms

Ignition Coil (primary)

Resistance

(secondary)

4.8 ohms

(terminal (+) to terminal (-))

12k-19k ohms (high tension -

plug cap to terminal)

Ignition Coil

Primary Voltage

Battery Voltage

(orange to ground)

Stator Coil Resistance

(crankshaft position sensor)

(AC generator)

150-250 ohms (blue to green)

Less than 1 ohm (gray to gray)

Crankshaft Position Sensor

AC Voltage

2.0 AC volts or more

(blue to green)

Generator Output (no load) 75 AC volts or more

@ 5000 RPM (

gray

)

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5-3

Battery

After being in service, batteries require regular clean-

ing and recharging in order to deliver peak perfor-

mance and maximum service life. The following

procedure is recommended for cleaning and maintain-

ing batteries. Always read and follow instructions pro-

vided with battery chargers and battery products.

1. Remove the battery hold-down; then disconnect

the battery cables (negative cable first).

2. Disconnect the vent hose (lead-acid battery).

3. Remove the battery from the battery compartment;

then thoroughly wash the battery and battery com-

partment with soap and water.

NOTE: If battery posts, cable ends, or the battery

case has a build-up of white/green powder residue,

apply water and baking soda to neutralize acid;

then flush off with warm soapy water.

4. Using a wire brush, clean the battery posts and

cable ends removing all corrosive buildup.

Replace damaged cables or cable ends.

5. Add clean distilled water to bring fluid level to the

UPPER level line (lead-acid battery).

NOTE: The EFI models are equipped with a

sealed battery. Do not attempt to add electrolyte to

these batteries.

6. Using a multimeter, test the battery voltage. The

meter must read 12.5 or more DC Volts for a fully

charged battery.

NOTE: At this point, if the meter reads as speci-

fied, the battery may be returned to service (see

step 10).

7. If the meter reads less than specified voltage,

charge the battery using the following guidelines.

A. When using an automatic battery charger,

always follow the charger manufacturer’s

instructions.

B. When using a constant-current battery charger,

use the following Battery Charging Chart.

NOTE: If the battery voltage is 11.5 DC Volts or

less, some chargers may “cut off” and fail to

charge. If this occurs, connect a fully charged

booster battery in parallel (positive to positive and

negative to negative) for a short period of time

with the charger connected. After 10-15 minutes,

disconnect the booster battery leaving the charger

connected and the charger should continue to

charge. If the charger “cuts off,” replace the bat-

tery.

8. After charging the battery for the specified time,

remove the battery charger and allow the battery to

sit for 1-2 hours.

9. Connect the multimeter and test the battery volt-

age. The meter should read 12.5 or more DC Volts.

If the voltage is as specified, the battery is ready

for service.

NOTE: If voltage in step 9 is below specifications,

charge the battery an additional 1-5 hours; then

retest. Recheck electrolyte level (lead-acid battery)

and the battery is ready for service.

10. Place the battery in the battery compartment; then

coat the battery posts and cable ends with a light

coat of multi-purpose grease.

! WARNING

Anytime service is performed on a battery, the follow-

ing must be observed: keep sparks, open flame, ciga-

rettes, or any other flame away. Always wear safety

glasses. Protect skin and clothing when handling a

battery. When servicing battery in enclosed space,

keep the area well-ventilated. Make sure battery vent-

ing is not obstructed.

! WARNING

Battery acid is harmful if it contacts eyes, skin, or

clothing. Care must be taken whenever handling a bat-

tery.

! CAUTION

Never use electrolyte (sulfuric acid) to “top off” the

battery. Use only distilled water or severe battery dam-

age may occur.

! CAUTION

Never exceed the standard charging rate.

! WARNING

An overheated battery could explode causing severe

injury or death. Always monitor charging times and

charge rates carefully. Stop charging if the battery

becomes very warm to the touch. Allow it to cool

before resuming charging.

Battery Charging Chart (Constant-Current Charger)

Battery Voltage

(DC)

Charge

State

Charge Time Required

(at 1.5-2.0 Amps)

12.5 or more 100% None

12.2-12.4 75%-99% 3-6 hours

12.0-12.2 50%-74% 5-11 hours

11.0-11.9 25%-49% 13 hours (minimum)

11.5 or less 0-24% 20 hours (minimum)

! CAUTION

Before installing the battery, make sure the ignition

switch is in the OFF position.

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11. Connect the battery cables (positive cable first);

then install the battery hold-down.

RPM Limiter

NOTE: The ATV is equipped with a CDI unit/ECU

that retards ignition timing when maximum RPM is

approached. When the RPM limiter is activated, it

could be misinterpreted as a high-speed misfire.

Testing Electrical

Components

All of the electrical tests should be made using the

Fluke Model 73 Multimeter and when testing peak

voltage, the Peak Voltage Reading Adapter must be

used. If any other type of meter is used, readings may

vary due to internal circuitry. When troubleshooting a

specific component, always verify first that the fuse(s)

are good, that the bulb(s) are good, that the connec-

tions are clean and tight, that the battery is fully

charged, and that all appropriate switches are acti-

vated.

NOTE: For absolute accuracy, all tests should be

made at room temperature of 68° F.

Accessory

Receptacle/Connector

NOTE: This test procedure is for either the recep-

tacle or the connector.

VOLTAGE

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position; then

set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the red/white wire or

the positive connector; then connect the black

tester lead to ground.

3. The meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage,

troubleshoot the battery, fuse, receptacle, connec-

tor, or the main wiring harness.

Brakelight Switch

(Auxiliary)

The switch connector is the two-prong connector on

the brake switch lead above the transmission.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON

position.

VOLTAGE

(Wiring Harness Side)

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester to the orange wire; then

connect the black tester lead to ground.

AR627D

3. The meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage,

troubleshoot the battery, fuse, switch, or the main

wiring harness.

NOTE: If the meter shows battery voltage, the

main wiring harness is good; proceed to test the

switch/component, the connector, and the switch

wiring harness for resistance.

RESISTANCE (Switch Connector)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one black wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the other black

wire.

! CAUTION

Connecting cables in reverse (positive to negative and

negative to positive) can cause serious damage to the

electrical system.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

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AR626D

3. When the brake pedal is depressed, the meter must

show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of

resistance, replace the switch.

Brakelight Switch

(Handlebar Control)

To access the connector, remove the access panel.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON

position.

VOLTAGE

(Wiring Harness Connector)

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire; then

connect the black tester lead to ground.

AR622D

3. The meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage,

troubleshoot the battery, fuse, switch, or the main

wiring harness.

NOTE: If the meter shows battery voltage, the

main wiring harness is good; proceed to test the

switch/component, the connector, and the switch

wiring harness for resistance.

RESISTANCE (Switch Connector)

NOTE: The brake lever must be compressed for

this test. Also, the ignition switch must be in the

OFF position.

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one black wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the other black

wire.

AR621D

3. When the lever is compressed, the meter must

show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of

resistance, replace the switch.

Oil Temperature and

Cooling Fan Switches

(400)

1. Connect the meter leads (selector in the OHMS

position) to the switch contacts.

2. Suspend the switch and a thermometer in a con-

tainer of cooking oil; then heat the oil.

NOTE: Neither the switch nor the thermometer

should be allowed to touch the bottom of the con-

tainer or inaccurate readings will occur. Use wire

holders to suspend switch and thermometer.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

! WARNING

Wear insulated gloves and safety glasses. Heated oil

can cause severe burns.

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733-554C

3. On the oil temperature switch when the oil temper-

ature reaches 160° C (320° F), the meter should

read a closed circuit.

4. On the oil temperature switch, allow the oil to

cool, and when the temperature is at (or just

before) a temperature of 140° C (284° F), the

meter should read an open circuit.

5. On the cooling fan switch when the temperature

reaches 120° C (248° F), the meter should read a

closed circuit.

6. On the cooling fan switch, allow the oil to cool,

and when the temperature is at (or just before) a

temperature of 110° C (230° F), the meter should

read an open circuit.

7. If the readings are not as indicated, the switch

must be replaced.

8. Apply thread tape to the threads of the switch; then

install the switch and tighten securely.

9. Connect the switch leads.

Coolant Temperature

and Cooling Fan

Switches

(500)

1. Connect the meter leads (selector in the OHMS

position) to the switch contacts.

2. Suspend the switch and a thermometer in a con-

tainer of cooking oil; then heat the oil.

NOTE: Neither the switch nor the thermometer

should be allowed to touch the bottom of the con-

tainer or inaccurate readings will occur. Use wire

holders to suspend switch and thermometer.

733-554E

3. On the coolant temperature switch when the oil

temperature reaches 112-118° C (234-244° F), the

meter should read a closed circuit.

4. On the coolant temperature switch, allow the oil to

cool, and when the temperature is within a temper-

ature range of 108-111° C (226-232° F), the meter

should read an open circuit.

5. On the cooling fan switch when the temperature

reaches 88° C (190° F), the meter should read a

closed circuit.

6. On the cooling fan switch, allow the oil to cool,

and when the temperature is within a temperature

range of 66° C (150° F), the meter should read an

open circuit.

7. If the readings are not as indicated, the switch

must be replaced.

8. Install the switch and tighten securely.

9. Connect the switch leads.

Engine Coolant

Temperature (ECT)

Sensor

(EFI Models)

1. Connect the meter leads (selector in OHMS posi-

tion) to the sensor terminals.

2. Suspend the sensor and a thermometer in a con-

tainer of cooking oil; then heat the oil.

NOTE: Neither the sensor nor the thermometer

should be allowed to touch the bottom of the con-

tainer or inaccurate readings will occur. Use wire

holders to suspend the sensor and thermometer.

! WARNING

Wear insulated gloves and safety glasses. Heated oil

can cause severe burns.

! WARNING

Wear insulated gloves and safety glasses. Heated oil

can cause severe burns.

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3. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches

20° C (68° F), the meter should read approxi-

mately 2.45k ohms.

4. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches

50° C (122° F), the meter should read approxi-

mately 800 ohms.

5. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches

80° C (176° F), the meter should read approxi-

mately 318 ohms.

6. On the ECT sensor when the temperature reaches

110° C (230° F), the meter should read approxi-

mately 142 ohms.

7. If the readings are not as indicated, the sensor

must be replaced.

8. Install the sensor and tighten securely.

9. Connect the leads.

Fan Motor

The connector is the black two-prong one located

behind the fan assembly.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON

position.

VOLTAGE (Main Harness

Connector to Fan Motor)

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the black/red wire;

then connect the black tester lead to ground.

3. The meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage,

troubleshoot the battery, fuse, motor, or the main

wiring harness.

NOTE: If the meter shows battery voltage, the

main wiring harness is good. The connector

should be checked for resistance.

RESISTANCE

(Fan Motor Connector)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the blue wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the black wire.

AR645D

3. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of

resistance, troubleshoot or replace the

switch/component, the connector, or the switch

wiring harness.

NOTE: To determine if the fan motor is good,

connect the red wire from the fan connector to the

positive side of a 12 volt DC power supply; then

connect the black wire from the fan connector to

the negative side. The fan should operate.

Power Distribution

Module (PDM)

The fuses are located in a power distribution module

under the seat. If there is any type of electrical system

failure, always check the fuses first.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the LIGHTS

position.

1. Remove all fuses from the distribution module.

2. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

3. Connect the black tester lead to ground.

4. Using the red tester lead, contact each end of the

fuse holder connector terminals individually.

5. The meter must show battery voltage from one

side of the connector terminal ends.

NOTE: Battery voltage will be indicated from only

one side of the fuse holder connector terminal; the

other side will show no voltage.

NOTE: When testing the HI fuse holder, the head-

light dimmer switch must be in the HI position;

when testing the LIGHTS fuse holder, the headlight

dimmer switch can be in either position.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

! WARNING

Care should be taken to keep clear of the fan blades.

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5-8

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage,

troubleshoot the battery, switches, distribution

module, or the main wiring harness.

FUSES

NOTE: To remove a fuse, compress the locking

tabs on either side of the fuse case and lift out.

1411-963

0411-828

0411-837

1411-526

1411-940

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one spade end of the

fuse; then connect the black tester lead to the other

spade end.

3. The meter must show less than 1 ohm resistance.

If the meter reads open, replace the fuse.

NOTE: Make sure the fuses are returned to their

proper position according to amperage. Refer to

the fuse block cover for fuse placement.

RELAYS

The relays are identical plug-in type. Relay function

can be checked by switching relay positions. The

relays are interchangeable.

NOTE: The module and wiring harness are not a

serviceable component and must be replaced as

an assembly.

Ignition Coil

NOTE: On the H2 models, the following proce-

dures should be performed on both ignition coils.

The ignition coil is on the frame above the engine. To

access the coil, the side panel must be removed (see

Section 2).

400

500 Auto

500 Manual

550 H1 TRV/700 H1 EFI/Thundercat

550/700 H1 Cruiser/H2 Cruiser

! CAUTION

Always replace a blown fuse with a fuse of the same

type and rating.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

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RESISTANCE

NOTE: For these tests, the meter selector should

be set to the OHMS position and the primary

wire(s) should be disconnected.

Primary Winding

1. Connect the red tester lead to either terminal; then

connect the black tester lead to the other terminal

or on 500 models, to a suitable ground.

KC329A

CD882B

CF234C

GZ389A

2. The meter reading must be within specification.

Secondary Winding

1. Remove the plug cap from the high tension lead;

then connect the red tester lead to the high tension

lead.

2. On the H1/H2 models, connect the black tester

lead to either primary connector; on the 400/500,

connect the black tester lead to the coil frame or to

the primary connector.

3. The meter reading must be within specification.

NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified,

replace ignition coil.

Spark Plug Cap

1. Connect the red tester lead to one end of the cap;

then connect the black tester lead to the other end

of the cap.

AR603D

2. The meter reading must be within specification.

NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified,

replace the spark plug cap.

PEAK VOLTAGE

NOTE: All of the peak voltage tests should be

made using the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter with

Peak Voltage Reading Adapter. If any other type of

tester is used, readings may vary due to internal

circuitry.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

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NOTE: The battery must be at full charge for

these tests.

Primary/CDI (400)

NOTE: The CDI is located on the electrical tray in

front of the steering shaft.

KC210B

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position;

then disconnect the black/yellow and black pri-

mary wires from the coil.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the black/yellow

wire; then connect the black tester lead to the

black wire.

3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter.

4. The meter reading must be within specification.

Primary/CDI (500)

NOTE: The CDI is located beneath the seat near

the battery.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position;

then disconnect the blue/white primary wire from

the coil.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the primary wire;

then connect the black tester lead to ground.

3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter.

4. The meter reading must be within specification.

Primary Voltage - ECU (H1 Models)

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position;

then disconnect the two wires from the coil.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire and

the black tester lead to the blue/white wire.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

meter must show battery voltage.

Primary Voltage - ECU (H2 Models)

NOTE: The battery must be at full charge for this

test.

NOTE: The ECU is located beneath the rear

fender near the taillight.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position;

then disconnect the orange primary wire from the

coil.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange primary

wire; then connect the black tester lead to ground.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

4. The meter reading must be within specification.

EFI Sensors/

Components

(EFI Models)

CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP)

SENSOR

To test the CKP sensor, see Stator Coil/Crankshaft

Position (CKP) Sensor (EFI Models) in this section.

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE

(MAP) SENSOR

1. Disconnect the MAP connector from the pressure

sensor located on top of the throttle body.

2. Select DC Voltage on the tester and turn the igni-

tion switch to the ON position.

3. Connect the black tester lead to the black/green

wire and the red tester lead to the orange/blue

wire. The meter should read 4.5-5.5 DC volts. If

the meter does not read as specified, check the

ECU connector or wiring.

4. Connect the MAP to the harness; then using Maxi-

Clips, connect the red tester lead to the

brown/white wire and the black tester lead to the

black/green wire. With the engine running at idle

speed, the meter should read approximately 1.5

DC volts.

NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified,

replace the sensor.

Speed Sensor

NOTE: Prior to testing the speed sensor, inspect

the three-wire connector on the speed sensor har-

ness (manual transmission model) or on the speed

sensor (automatic transmission models) for con-

tamination, broken pins, and/or corrosion.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

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2. With appropriate needle adapters on the meter

leads, connect the red tester lead to the voltage

lead (V); then connect the black tester lead to the

ground lead (G).

CD884D

CD885D

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

4. The meter must show 6-12 DC volts.

5. Leave the black tester lead connected; then con-

nect the red tester lead to the signal lead (S) pin.

6. Slowly move the ATV forward or backward; the

meter must show 0 and 6-12 DC volts alternately.

NOTE: If the sensor tests are within specifica-

tions, the speedometer must be replaced (see Sec-

tion 9).

To replace a speed sensor, use the following proce-

dure.

1. Disconnect the three-wire connector from the

speed sensor harness or from the speed sensor;

then remove the Allen-head cap screw securing

the sensor to the sensor housing.

2. Remove the sensor from the sensor housing

accounting for an O-ring.

3. Install the new speed sensor into the housing with

new O-ring lightly coated with multi-purpose

grease; then secure the sensor with the Allen-head

cap screw (threads coated with blue Loctite #242).

Tighten securely.

CD071

Ignition Switch

The ignition switch harness connects to the switch

with a four-pin connector. To access the connector,

remove the ignition switch nut, remove the switch, and

press the connector release tab. Pull the connector

from the switch.

CF272A

CF273A

VOLTAGE

NOTE: Perform this test on the harness connec-

tor.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red meter lead to either red wire; then

connect the black meter lead to ground.

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3. Meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no battery voltage,

troubleshoot the battery or the main wiring har-

ness.

RESISTANCE

NOTE: Perform this test on the switch using the

following procedure.

CF274A

1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

3. Connect either tester lead to pin C; then connect

the other tester lead to pin D.

4. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.

5. Turn the ignition switch to the LIGHTS position.

6. Connect either tester lead to pin A; then connect

the other tester lead to pin B.

7. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.

8. Connect either tester lead to pin C; then connect

the other tester lead to pin D.

9. The meter must show less than 1 ohm.

10. With the switch in the OFF position, connect the

red tester lead and the black tester lead to each of

the remaining pins. The meter must show an open

circuit on all pins.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of

resistance, troubleshoot or replace the switch/

component or the connector.

Handlebar Control

Switches

The connector is the yellow one next to the steering

post. To access the connector, the steering post cover

and the right-side fender splash shield must be

removed (see Section 8).

NOTE: These tests should be made on the top

side of the connector.

RESISTANCE (HI Beam)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the gray wire.

3. With the dimmer switch in the HI position, the

meter must show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of

resistance, troubleshoot or replace the

switch/component, the connector, or the switch

wiring harness.

RESISTANCE (LO Beam)

1. Connect the red tester lead to the white wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the gray wire.

2. With the dimmer switch in the LO position, the

meter must show an open circuit.

NOTE: If the meter reads resistance, trouble-

shoot or replace the switch/component, the con-

nector, or the switch wiring harness.

DIODE (Starter Button)

NOTE: If voltage is not as specified, check the

condition of the battery in the meter prior to

replacing the switch. A low battery will result in a

low voltage reading during a diode test.

1. Set the meter selector to the Diode position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange/white

wire; then connect the black tester lead to the yel-

low/green wire.

3. With the starter button depressed, the meter must

show 0.5-0.7 DC volts.

4. With the starter button released, the meter must

show 0 DC volts.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

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5. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow/green

wire; then connect the black tester lead to the

orange/white wire.

6. With the starter button depressed, the meter must

show 0 DC volts.

NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified,

replace the switch/component, connector, or

switch harness.

RESISTANCE (Emergency Stop)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the orange/white

wire.

3. With the switch in the OFF position, the meter

must show an open circuit.

4. With the switch in the RUN position, the meter

must show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of

resistance, troubleshoot or replace the

switch/component, the connector, or the switch

wiring harness.

RESISTANCE (Reverse Override)

The connector is the four-prong white one next to the

steering post. To access the connector, the front rack

and front fenders must be removed (see Section 8).

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one red/yellow wire;

then connect the black tester wire to the other

red/yellow wire. The meter must show less than 1

ohm.

3. Depress and hold the reverse override button. The

meter must show an open circuit.

4. Connect the red tester lead to the blue wire; then

connect the black meter lead to the black wire. The

meter must show an open circuit.

5. Depress and hold the reverse override button. The

meter must show less than 1 ohm.

NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified,

replace the switch/component, connector, or

switch harness.

Front Drive Selector

Switch

The connector is the two-wire black snap-lock one in

front of the steering post. To access the connector, the

cover must be removed.

NOTE: Resistance tests should be made with the

connector disconnected and on the selector-side

of the connector.

RESISTANCE

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the red wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the white wire.

3. With the selector switch in the 2WD position, the

meter must show a closed circuit (400/500) or

open circuit (H1/H2 models).

4. With the selector switch in the 4WD position, the

meter must show an open circuit (400/500) or less

than 1 ohm (H1/H2 models).

NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified,

replace the front drive selector switch.

VOLTAGE

NOTE: The battery must be connected when per-

forming voltage tests.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the black tester lead to the negative bat-

tery terminal.

3. Connect the red tester lead to the red (400/500) or

white (H1/H2 models) wire on the harness side of

the connector.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.

5. The meter must show 12 DC volts.

NOTE: If the meter shows other than specified,

check the harness, connector, 30 amp fuse, and

battery connections.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

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5-14

Front Drive Selector

Actuator

(400/500)

NOTE: With the engine stopped and the ignition

switch in the ON position, a momentary “whirring”

sound must be noticeable each time the selector

switch is moved to 2WD and 4WD. Test the switch,

30 amp fuse, and wiring connections prior to test-

ing the actuator.

NOTE: The differential must be in the unlocked

position for this procedure.

VOLTAGE

1. Select the 2WD position on the front drive selector

switch; then disconnect the connector on the actu-

ator wiring harness.

2. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, con-

nect the black tester lead to the black wire in the

supply harness; then connect the red tester lead to

the orange wire in the supply harness.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

meter must show 12 DC volts.

4. Connect the red tester lead to the white/red wire in

the supply harness. The meter must show 12 DC

volts.

5. Select the 4WD position on the front drive selector

switch; then connect the red tester lead to the

white/red wire in the supply harness. The meter

must show 0 DC volts.

NOTE: The 4WD icon on the LCD should illumi-

nate.

6. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire in

the supply harness. The meter must show 12 DC

volts.

NOTE: If the voltage readings are as specified

and the actuator does not function correctly,

replace the actuator (see Section 6).

Front Drive/Differential

Lock Actuator

(H1/H2 Models)

NOTE: With the engine stopped and the ignition

switch in the ON position, a momentary “whirring”

sound must be noticeable each time the selector

switch is moved to 2WD and 4WD. Test the switch,

30 amp fuse, and wiring connections prior to test-

ing the actuator.

NOTE: The differential must be in the unlocked

position for this procedure.

VOLTAGE

1. Select the 2WD position on the front drive selector

switch; then disconnect the connector on the actu-

ator wiring harness.

2. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, con-

nect the black tester lead to the black wire in the

supply harness; then connect the red tester lead to

the orange wire in the supply harness.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

meter must show 12 DC volts.

4. Connect the red tester lead to the white/orange

wire in the supply harness. The meter must show

12 DC volts.

5. Connect the red tester lead to the white/green wire

in the supply harness. The meter must show 10.2

DC volts.

6. Select the 4WD position on the front drive selector

switch; then connect the red tester lead to the

white/orange wire in the supply harness. The

meter must show 12 DC volts.

NOTE: The 4WD icon on the LCD should illumi-

nate.

7. Connect the red tester lead to the white/green wire

in the supply harness. The meter must show 0 DC

volts.

8. Select Differential Lock on the front drive actuator

switch; then connect the red tester lead to the

white/orange wire in the supply harness. The

meter must show 0 DC volts.

9. Connect the tester lead to the white/green wire in

the supply harness. The meter must show 0 DC

volts.

NOTE: The 4WD and LOCK icons on the LCD

should illuminate.

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5-15

NOTE: If the voltage readings are as specified

and the actuator does not function correctly,

replace the actuator (see Section 6).

Differential Lock

Switch

(500)

VOLTAGE

1. Select DC Voltage on the multimeter; then connect

the red tester lead to the switch terminal (leaving

the wire connected) and the black tester lead to

ground.

CD575

2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

meter must show 12 DC volts.

NOTE: If no voltage is indicated, check the wiring

harness, fuse, or battery connections.

3. Select the lock position on the differential. The

meter should drop to 0 volts, and the front drive

selector actuator switch should operate to engage

4-wheel drive.

NOTE: It may be necessary to rock the ATV

slightly to engage the differential lock fully.

NOTE: The 4WD and the LOCK icons on the LCD

should illuminate.

CD576

CF094C

4. If the differential lock engages (front wheels

locked) and the voltage does not drop to 0, the

switch is faulty and must be cleaned or replaced.

Differential Lock

Control Switch

(H1/H2 Models)

RESISTANCE

Disconnect the switch from the main harness; then

with the tester set to the OHMS position, test the

switch as follows.

Stator Coil

(400/500)

VOLTAGE

(AC Generator - Regulated Output)

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery

post; then connect the black tester lead to the nega-

tive battery post.

3. With the engine running at a constant 5000 RPM

(with the headlights on), the meter must show

14-15.5 DC volts.

NOTE: If voltage is lower than specified, test

charging coil - no load.

“Unlocked” Position A to B

A to C

B to C

<1 Ohm

50 Ohms

<1 Ohm

“Locked” Position A to B

A to C

B to C

<1 Ohm

50 Ohms

! CAUTION

Do not run the engine at high RPM for more than 10

seconds.

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5-16

VOLTAGE (Charging Coil - No

Load)

The connector is a three-pin one in the harness coming

from the AC generator.

NOTE: Test the engine-side of the connector.

1. Set the meter selector to the AC Voltage position.

2. Test between the three black wires for a total of

three tests.

3. With the engine running at the specified RPM, all

wire tests must show 60 AC volts.

NOTE: If both stator coil tests failed, check all

connections, etc., and test again. If no voltage is

present, replace the stator assembly.

RESISTANCE (Charging Coil)

1. Set the meter selector to OHMS position.

2. Test between the three black wires for a total of

three tests.

3. The meter reading must be within specification.

RESISTANCE (Trigger Coil)

1. Disconnect the gray four-pin connector on the

right side of the engine just above the starter

motor.

2. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

3. Connect the red tester lead to the green wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the blue wire. The

meter reading must be within specification.

PEAK VOLTAGE

NOTE: All of the peak voltage tests should be

made using the Fluke Model 73 Multimeter with

Peak Voltage Reading Adapter. If any other type of

tester is used, readings may vary due to internal

circuitry.

NOTE: The battery must be at full charge for

these tests.

Trigger Coil

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the green wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the blue wire.

3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter.

4. The meter reading must be within specification.

Stator Coil/Crankshaft

Position (CKP) Sensor

(EFI Models)

VOLTAGE

(AC Generator - Regulated Output)

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery

post; then connect the black tester lead to the nega-

tive battery post.

3. With the engine running at a constant 5000 RPM

(with the headlights on), the meter must show

14-15.5 DC volts.

NOTE: If voltage is lower than specified, test AC

Generator - No Load.

VOLTAGE

(AC Generator - No Load)

The connector is a three-pin one in the harness coming

from the generator.

FI083B

NOTE: Test the connector that comes from the

engine.

1. Set the meter selector to the AC Voltage position.

! CAUTION

Do not run the engine at high RPM for more than 10

seconds.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

! CAUTION

Do not run the engine at high RPM for more than 10

seconds.

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5-17

2. Test between the three yellow wires (H1 models)

or gray wires (H2 models) for a total of three tests.

3. With the engine running at a constant 5000 RPM,

all wire tests must be within specifications.

NOTE: If both stator coil tests failed, check all

connections, etc., and test again. If no voltage is

present, replace the stator assembly.

RESISTANCE (AC Generator)

1. Set the meter selector to OHMS position.

2. Test between the three yellow wires (H1 models)

or gray wires (H2 models) for a total of three tests.

3. The meter reading must be within specification.

RESISTANCE

(Crankshaft Position Sensor)

1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the blue wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the white wire (H1

models) or green wire (H2 models). The meter

reading must be within specification.

AC VOLTAGE

NOTE: The battery must be at full charge for

these tests.

Crankshaft Position Sensor

1. Set the meter selector to the AC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the blue wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the green wire.

3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter.

4. The meter reading must be within specification.

Starter Relay

1. Remove the seat; then using the multimeter set to

the DC Voltage position, check the relay as fol-

lows.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery

terminal; then connect the black tester lead to the

starter cable connection on the starter relay. The

meter must show battery voltage.

KX206A

NOTE: Make sure that the ignition switch is in the

ON position, transmission in neutral, brake lock

released, and the emergency stop switch in the

RUN position.

3. Depress the starter button while observing the

multimeter. The multimeter should drop to 0 volts

and a “click” should be heard from the relay.

NOTE: If a “click” is heard and any voltage is

indicated by the multimeter, replace the starter

relay. If no “click” is heard and the multimeter con-

tinues to indicate battery voltage, proceed to step

4. Disconnect the two-wire plug from the starter

relay; then connect the red tester lead to the green

wire and the black tester lead to the black wire.

KX059A

5. Depress the starter button and observe the multim-

eter.

! CAUTION

Do not run the engine at high RPM for more than 10

seconds.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

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5-18

NOTE: If battery voltage is indicated, replace the

starter relay. If no voltage is indicated, proceed to

Power Distribution Module (PDM) check.

Starter Motor

NOTE: On the 400/H1/H2 models, the starter is a

non-serviceable component. If the following test

does not result as specified, the starter must be

replaced.

TESTING VOLTAGE

Perform this test on the starter motor positive terminal.

To access the terminal, slide the boot away.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON

position, the emergency stop switch in the RUN

position, the reverse lever (on manual transmis-

sion models) in the FORWARD position, and the

shift lever (on automatic transmission models) in

the NEUTRAL position.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the starter terminal;

then connect the black tester lead to ground.

3. With the starter button depressed, the meter must

show approximately 10.0 DC volts and the starter

motor should operate.

AR607D

NOTE: If the meter showed correct voltage but

the starter did not operate or operated slowly, the

starter motor is defective.

NOTE: If the meter showed no voltage, inspect

the main fuse, ground connections, starter motor

lead, battery voltage (at the battery), starter relay,

or the neutral start relay.

REMOVING/DISASSEMBLING

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the nut securing the positive cable to the

starter; then remove the cable from the starter.

3. Remove the two cap screws securing the starter to

the crankcase; then remove the starter. Account for

the wiring forms and an O-ring.

4. For assembly purposes, scribe a line across the

outside of the starter assembly.

AR652D

5. Remove the two long starter cap screws securing

the starter components.

6. Remove the front cover from the starter housing

and armature shaft. Account for a seal protector

and three washers.

BC003

7. Remove the rear cover.

8. Slide the armature free of the starter housing.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the negative battery cable from the

battery first; then disconnect the positive cable.

 AT THIS POINT

On the 400/H1/H2 models to install the starter, proceed

to ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING - steps 10-12 in this

sub-section.

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5-19

BC006

9. Bend the two positive brushes outward; then

remove the brush holder.

BC007

BC010

10. Remove the nut from the positive post. Account

for the lock washer, flat washer, a fiber washer,

and an O-ring.

BC008

11. Remove the positive brush assembly from the

starter housing.

BC009

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Thoroughly clean all components except the arma-

ture and brushes in parts-cleaning solvent; then

dry with compressed air.

2. Inspect all threaded areas for damage or stripped

threads.

3. Inspect the brush holder assembly and brushes for

damage or wear. Using a caliper, measure the

length of the brushes. If brush measurement is less

than 10.1 mm (0.40 in.), replace with new brushes

and brush springs as a set.

4. Inspect the brush leads for cracks, wear, or fray-

ing. If any of these conditions exist, replace with

new brushes and brush springs as a set.

5. Inspect the rear cover bushing for wear.

6. Inspect the front cover bearing for wear.

7. Inspect the brass commutator end of the armature

for any discolored spots or damage. If the commu-

tator is lightly discolored or damaged, the arma-

ture must be replaced. This is a molded

commutator and turning it down in a lathe should

not be attempted.

! CAUTION

Do not wash the armature and brushes in any kind of

solvent. Use only compressed air and a clean dry,

lint-free cloth.

! CAUTION

Do not use emery cloth to clean the commutator as

emery particles will become imbedded in the brass

commutator resulting in a short circuit. Use only #200

grit sandpaper.

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5-20

8. Inspect the commutator end of the armature for

buildup in the grooves. Carefully remove any

buildup by undercutting using a thinly ground

hacksaw blade. Do not undercut any deeper than

the original groove which can be seen by looking

at the end of the commutator.

9. Using a caliper, measure the undercut. Maximum

undercut groove must be 0.2 mm (0.008 in.).

ATV-1054

10. Inspect the commutator for shorting using a multi-

meter and the following procedure.

A. Set the selector to the OHMS position.

B. Touch the black lead to the armature shaft.

C. Using the red tester lead, probe the commutator

end of the armature. The meter indicator should

not change. If the indicator shows resistance,

the armature is shorted and must be replaced.

11. Inspect the armature for shorting using a

“growler” and the following procedure.

A. Place the armature in the “growler.”

B. While holding a metal strip on the armature,

rotate the armature an entire revolution. If the

metal strip vibrates at any point on the arma-

ture, the armature is shorted and must be

replaced.

0725-653

12. Inspect the ground brushes to make sure they are

properly grounded. Use a multimeter and the fol-

lowing procedure.

A. Set the selector to the OHMS position.

B. Touch the black tester lead to a ground brush.

C. Touch the red tester lead to the brush holder

assembly.

NOTE: If no resistance is indicated, check the

ground connection for tightness and for cleanli-

ness. If there is still no meter indication, replace

the brush assembly.

ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING

1. Install the positive post on the positive brush

assembly; then install on the starter housing.

BC009

2. On the positive post, install an O-ring washer, a

fiber washer, a flat washer, and a lock washer.

Secure with the nut.

BC008

3. Align the tab on the brush holder with the notch in

the starter housing; then install.

! CAUTION

Buildup in the grooves must be removed to prevent

any chance of an electrical arc between individual sec-

tions of the commutator.

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BC010

4. Install the armature into the starter housing; then

while holding the brushes out, slide the commuta-

tor into the brush holder.

BC006

5. Apply a small amount of grease to the rear cover

bushing; then install the cover on the starter hous-

ing making sure the reference marks align.

BC013

6. In order, install the thick metal washer, thin metal

washer, and the fiber washer on the armature shaft;

then install the housing O-ring on the starter hous-

ing.

BC014

7. Apply a small amount of grease to the front cover

bearing and seal; then install the seal protector.

BC015

BC004

8. Place the front cover onto the starter housing mak-

ing sure it seats properly.

9. Apply red Loctite #271 to the threads of the two

long cap screws and install. Tighten to 8 ft-lb.

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AR653D

10. Apply a small amount of grease to the O-ring seal

on the starter; then install the starter into the crank-

case. Secure with two cap screws and wiring

forms.

11. Secure the positive cable to the starter with the

nut.

12. Connect the battery.

CDI Unit

(400/500)

The CDI is located beneath the seat near the battery.

NOTE: The CDI unit is not a serviceable compo-

nent. If the unit is defective, it must be replaced.

The CDI is rarely the cause for electrical problems;

however, if the CDI is suspected, substitute another

CDI unit to verify the suspected one is defective.

NOTE: Prior to replacing the CDI unit to assure

the CDI unit is defective, it is advisable to perform

a CDI peak voltage test (see Ignition Coil in this

section) and/or perform a continuity test of the wir-

ing harness from the CDI connector to the CDI

unit.

Electronic Control Unit

(ECU)

(EFI Models)

The electronic control unit (ECU) is located beneath

the seat near the battery (H1 models) or under the

fender near the taillight (H2 models).

NOTE: The ECU is not a serviceable component.

If the unit is defective, it must be replaced.

The ECU is rarely the cause for electrical problems;

however, if the ECU is suspected, substitute another

ECU to verify the suspected one is defective.

Error codes can be cleared by following the procedures

located in the ECU Error Codes (EFI models) sub-sec-

tion in this section.

Regulator/Rectifier

The regulator/rectifier is located under the rear rack

and rear fenders.

TESTING

1. Start engine and warm up to normal operating

temperatures; then connect a multimeter to the bat-

tery as follows.

2. Select the DC Voltage position; then connect the

red tester lead to the positive battery post and the

black tester lead to the negative battery post.

3. Start the engine and slowly increase RPM. The

voltage should increase with the engine RPM to a

maximum of 15.5 DC volts.

NOTE: If voltage rises above 15.5 DC volts, the

regulator is faulty or a battery connection is loose

or corroded. Clean and tighten battery connec-

tions or replace the regulator/rectifier. If voltage

does not rise, check Voltage in this section. If

charging coil voltage is normal, replace the regula-

tor/rectifier.

Headlights

The connectors are the four 2-prong ones secured to

the front bumper supports (two on each side) with

cable ties.

VOLTAGE

NOTE: Perform this test in turn on the main har-

ness side of all four connectors. Also, the ignition

switch must be in the LIGHTS position.

NOTE: The LO beam is the outside bulb, and the

HI beam is the inside bulb.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to one wire; then con-

nect the black tester lead to the other wire.

3. With the dimmer switch in the LO position, test

the two outside connectors (LO beam). The meter

must show battery voltage.

4. With the dimmer switch in the HI position, test the

two inside connectors (HI beam). The meter must

show battery voltage.

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5-23

NOTE: If battery voltage is not shown in any test,

inspect the LIGHTS fuse, battery, main wiring har-

ness, connectors, or the left handlebar switch.

Taillight - Brakelight

The connector is the 3-prong one located under the

rear fender assembly.

VOLTAGE (Taillight)

NOTE: Perform this test on the main harness side

of the connector. Also, the ignition switch should

be in the LIGHTS position.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the white wire; then

connect the black tester lead to the black wire.

3. With the ignition key in the LIGHTS position, the

meter must show battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no voltage, inspect

fuses, wiring harness, connectors, and switches.

VOLTAGE (Brakelight)

NOTE: Perform this test on the main harness side

of the connector. Also, the ignition switch should

be in the ON position and the brake (either foot

pedal or hand lever) must be applied.

NOTE: Make sure the brake lever (hand) and

brake pedal (auxiliary) are properly adjusted for

this procedure.

1. Set the meter selector to the DC Voltage position.

2. Connect the red tester lead to the red/blue wire;

then connect the black tester lead to the black

wire.

3. With either brake applied, the meter must show

battery voltage.

NOTE: If the meter shows no voltage, inspect

bulb, fuses, wiring harness, connectors, and

switches.

Ignition Timing

The ignition timing cannot be adjusted; however, veri-

fying ignition timing can aid in troubleshooting other

components. To verify ignition timing, use the follow-

ing procedure.

1. Attach the Timing Light to the spark plug high ten-

sion lead; then remove the timing inspection plug

from the left-side crankcase cover.

2. Using the Tachometer, start the engine and run at

1500 RPM; ignition timing should be 10° BTDC.

3. Install the timing inspection plug.

If ignition timing cannot be verified, the rotor may be

damaged, the key may be sheared, the trigger

coil/CKP sensor bracket may be bent or damaged, or

the CDI unit/ECU may be faulty.

ECU Error Codes

(EFI Models)

If a sensor fails or an out-of-tolerance signal is sensed

by the ECU, an error code will be generated by the

ECU. This will result in the analog needle swinging

full scale (if equipped) or the LCD gauge going blank

(if equipped). The EFI icon will flash.

To read the error code(s), use the following procedure.

1. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion; then remove the seat.

2. Locate the diagnostic plug next to the PDM; then

remove the black rubber cap.

3. Connect the Diagnostic Harness to the diagnostic

plug.

ATV-112

4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and

read the error code on the LCD. Refer to the fol-

lowing ECU Error Code List to identify the spe-

cific problem area.

ECU Error Code List

NOTE: Each of the following numerical codes will

have a two-letter prefix. A prefix of AC (Active

Code) or SC (Stored Code) will be displayed.

Always correct and clear Active Codes before

clearing Stored Codes.

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5-24

• 00 = No Fault Detected (active code only)

• 12 = CKP (Crankshaft Position) Sensor*

• 13 = APS (Air Pressure Sensor) - H1

• 13 = MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor - H2

• 14 = TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

• 15 = ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) Sensor

• 16 = Speed Sensor

• 21 = IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) Sensor

• 23 = Tilt Sensor*

• 24 = Ignition Coil #1*

• 26 = Ignition Coil #2* - H2

• 32 = Fuel Injector #1*

• 34 = Fuel Injector #2* - H2

• 40 = ISC (Idle Speed Control) Valve

• 41 = Fuel Pump Relay*

• 60 = Cooling Fan Relay

• 95 = Sensor Power

• 96 = Incorrect ECU*

• 97 = ECU Memory Power (constant battery power)

• 98 = UART Comm Link - H2

• 99 = Start/Run Not Possible (active code only)

*Will initiate code 99.

To clear the error code(s), use the following procedure.

NOTE: The ignition switch should be in the OFF

position.

1. With the diagnostic harness connected to the diag-

nostic plug and the drive select switch in the 4WD

position, hold the reverse override switch down

and turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

2. After ten seconds, release the reverse override

switch and turn the ignition switch to the OFF posi-

tion; then turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

The display should read AC00 (no fault detected).

NOTE: If the LCD still displays an error code,

continue troubleshooting the appropriate compo-

nent.

3. Disconnect the diagnostic harness; then install the

black rubber cap.

4. Install the seat making sure it locks securely in place.

Tilt Sensor

(EFI Models)

SUPPLY VOLTAGE

1. Disconnect the three-wire connector from the sen-

sor; then select DC Voltage on the multimeter and

connect the red tester lead to the orange wire (C)

and the black tester lead to the black wire (A).

CD706A

2. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

multimeter should read battery voltage. If battery

voltage is not indicated, check the 30-amp fuse,

wiring harness, or the ignition switch.

3. Remove the red tester lead and connect to the

blue/brown wire (B). The multimeter should read

0 DC volts. If the specified voltage is not indi-

cated, check wire connections at the ECU or sub-

stitute another ECU to verify the test.

CD706B

OUTPUT VOLTAGE

NOTE: Needle adapters will be required on the

multimeter leads as the following tests are made

with the sensor connected.

1. Connect the three-wire plug to the sensor; then

remove the right-side mounting screw securing the

sensor to the rear frame.

! WARNING

Incorrect installation of the tilt sensor could cause

sudden loss of engine power which could result in

loss of vehicle control resulting in injury or death.

! CAUTION

Do not drop the tilt sensor as shock can damage the

internal mechanism.

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5-25

CD707

2. Install the needle adapters to the multimeter leads;

then select DC Voltage on the multimeter.

3. Connect the red tester lead to the blue/brown wire

(B) and the black tester lead to the black/yellow

wire (A); then turn the ignition switch ON and

observe the meter. The meter should read 0.8-3.0

DC volts.

CD705B

4. Tilt the sensor 60° or more to the left and right

observing the meter. The meter should read 4.0-8.0

DC volts after approximately one second in the

tilted position. If the meter readings are not as

specified, the tilt sensor is defective.

CD709

NOTE: When replacing the sensor after testing,

make sure the arrow marking is directed up.

CD705A

Throttle Position

Sensor (TPS)

(EFI Models)

INSPECTING

1. Remove the left-side engine cover; then discon-

nect the three-wire TPS connector plug.

PR544

NOTE: Prior to testing the TPS, inspect the

three-wire plug connector on the main harness

and the three-pin plug on the TPS for contamina-

tion, broken pins, and/or corrosion.

2. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF posi-

tion; then select the DC Voltage position on the

meter.

3. Connect the black tester lead to terminal C and the

red tester lead to terminal B. Turn the ignition

switch to the ON position. The meter should read

approximately 5.0 DC volts.

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5-26

PR538A

4. Remove the red tester lead from terminal B and

connect it to terminal A. The meter should read 0

DC volts.

NOTE: If the meter does not read as specified,

check for poor connections at the ECU or

open/broken wires in the wiring harness.

5. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position; then

disconnect the battery (negative cable first).

6. Select the OHMS position on the meter; then per-

form the following resistance tests on the TPS.

A. Pin (B) to ground - infinity (open circuit).

B. Pin (A) to pin (B) - approximately 1.22k ohms

(throttle closed).

C. Pin (A) to pin (B) - approximately 4.36k ohms

(throttle full-open).

D. Pin (A) to pin (C) - approximately 4.05k ohms.

PR535A

NOTE: If any meter reading is not as specified,

replace or adjust the TPS (see INSTALL-

ING/ADJUSTING in this sub-section).

7. Connect the positive lead to the battery; then con-

nect the negative lead.

8. Connect the main harness TPS connector to the

TPS; then using MaxiClips, connect the black

tester lead to the black/green wire and the red

tester lead to the green/black wire.

PR546A

9. Select the DC Voltage position on the meter and

turn the ignition switch to the ON position. The

meter should read approximately 0.60 DC volt

with the throttle closed and approximately 4.0 DC

volts with the throttle in the full-open position.

NOTE: If the meter readings are as specified,

check the main harness connector at the ECU

main harness wiring. If the meter readings are not

as specified, replace the TPS and adjust to specifi-

cations (see INSTALLING/ADJUSTING in this

sub-section).

10. Clear all ECU error codes after servicing is com-

plete (see ECU Error Codes (EFI Models) in this

section).

REMOVING

1. Remove the left-side engine cover; then discon-

nect the three-wire TPS connector plug.

PR544

2. Remove the two screws securing the TPS to the

throttle body and remove the TPS.

! CAUTION

Always make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF

position before disconnecting the ECU.

! CAUTION

Always disconnect the battery when performing resis-

tance tests to avoid damaging the multimeter.

! CAUTION

Always make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF

position before disconnecting the ECU.

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5-27

INSTALLING/ADJUSTING

1. Place the TPS into position on the throttle body

and secure with the two screws. Do not tighten at

this time.

2. Connect the main harness to the TPS.

3. Locate the diagnostic connector under the seat

next to the PDM; then install the test plug from

Test Plug/Error Code List kit onto the connector.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and

note the position of the TPS indicator icon (A, B,

or C); then adjust the TPS until the TPS icon

appears in the center position (B).

PR542A

PR540A

PR541A

5. Tighten the mounting screws securely; then verify

the TPS icon appears in the center position.

6. Remove the test plug; then install the left-side

engine cover.

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Troubleshooting

Problem: Spark absent or weak

Condition Remedy

1. Ignition coil defective

2. Spark plug defective

3. Magneto defective

4. CDI unit/ECU defective

5. Pick-up coil defective

1. Replace ignition coil

2. Replace plug

3. Replace magneto

4. Replace CDI unit/ECU

5. Replace pick-up coil

Problem: Spark plug fouled with carbon

Condition Remedy

1. Mixture too rich (400/500)

2. Idling RPM too high (400/500)

3. Gasoline incorrect

4. Air cleaner element dirty

5. Spark plug incorrect (too cold)

6. Valve seals cracked - missing

7. Oil rings worn - broken

1. Adjust carburetor

2. Adjust carburetor

3. Change to correct gasoline

4. Clean element

5. Replace plug

6. Replace seals

7. Replace rings

Problem: Spark plug electrodes overheat or burn

Condition Remedy

1. Spark plug incorrect (too hot)

2. Engine overheats

3. Spark plug loose

4. Mixture too lean (400/500)

1. Replace plug

2. Service cooling system

3. Tighten plug

4. Adjust carburetor

Problem: Magneto does not charge

Condition Remedy

1. Lead wires/connections shorted - loose - open

2. Magneto coils shorted - grounded - open

3. Regulator/rectifier defective

1. Repair - replace - tighten lead wires

2. Replace magneto coils

3. Replace regulator/rectifier

Problem: Magneto charges, but charging rate is below the specification

Condition Remedy

1. Lead wires shorted - open - loose (at terminals)

2. Stator coils (magneto) grounded - open

3. Regulator/rectifier defective

4. Electrolyte low

5. Cell plates (battery) defective

1. Repair - tighten lead wires

2. Replace stator coils

3. Replace regulator/rectifier

4. Add distilled water

5. Replace battery

Problem: Magneto overcharges

Condition Remedy

1. Internal battery short circuited

2. Regulator/rectifier resistor damaged - defective

3. Regulator/rectifier poorly grounded

1. Replace battery

2. Replace resistor

3. Clean - tighten ground connection

Problem: Charging unstable

Condition Remedy

1. Lead wire intermittently shorting

2. Magneto internally shorted

3. Regulator/rectifier defective

1. Replace lead wire

2. Replace magneto

3. Replace regulator/rectifier

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Problem: Starter button not effective

Condition Remedy

1. Battery charge low

2. Switch contacts defective

3. Starter motor brushes not seating

4. Starter relay defective

5. Emergency stop - ignition switch off

6. Wiring connections loose - disconnected

1. Charge - replace battery

2. Replace switch

3. Repair - replace brushes (500)

4. Replace relay

5. Turn on switches

6. Connect - tighten - repair connections

Problem: Battery “sulfation” (Acidic white powdery substance or spots on surfaces of cell plates)

Condition Remedy

1. Charging rate too low - too high

2. Battery electrolyte insufficient

3. Specific gravity too low

4. Battery run-down - damaged

5. Electrolyte contaminated

1. Replace battery

2. Keep electrolyte to prescribed level

3. Charge battery - add distilled water

4. Replace battery

5. Replace battery

Problem: Battery discharges too rapidly

Condition Remedy

1. Electrolyte contaminated

2. Specific gravity too low

3. Charging system not charging

4. Cell plates overcharged - damaged

5. Battery short-circuited

6. Specific gravity too low

1. Replace battery

2. Charge battery - add distilled water

3. Check magneto - regulator/rectifier - circuit connections

4. Replace battery - correct charging system

5. Replace battery

6. Charge battery

Problem: Battery polarity reversed

Condition Remedy

1. Battery incorrectly connected 1. Reverse connections - replace battery - repair damage

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6-1

SECTION 6 - DRIVE SYSTEM

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Drive System ........................................................... 6-2

Front Drive Actuator (400/500)/Electronic

Differential Lock (H1/H2 Models) ......................... 6-2

Front Differential...................................................... 6-3

Drive Axles ............................................................ 6-17

Rear Gear Case .................................................... 6-21

Hub........................................................................ 6-23

Hydraulic Brake Caliper......................................... 6-25

Troubleshooting Drive System............................... 6-26

Troubleshooting Brake System.............................. 6-27

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6-2

Drive System

NOTE: Some photographs and illustrations used

in this section are used for clarity purposes only

and are not designed to depict actual conditions.

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located

in Section 1.

NOTE: Specifications regarding the gear cases

(capacities, lubricant type, etc.) can be found in

Section 1 of this manual.

GENERAL INFORMATION

All gear cases are tagged beneath a cover bolt. This tag

is marked with a production date code, sequence code,

and a ratio code.

A. A “6” or “3.6” on the lower-right corner indi-

cates a 3.6:1 gear set ratio (10:36 teeth).

B. A “1” or “3.1” on the lower-right corner indi-

cates a 3.1:1 gear set ratio (11:34 teeth).

C. A “4.0” on the lower-right corner indicates a

4.0:1 gear set ratio (9:36 teeth).

The die-cast aluminum housings have been assembled

with thread-rolling screws (trilobular). When assem-

bling with these screws, start the screws carefully into

the housing; then use the following torque values.

SPECIAL TOOLS

A number of special tools must be available to the

technician when performing service procedures in this

section.

NOTE: Special tools are available from the Arctic

Cat Service Parts Department.

Front Drive Actuator

(400/500)/Electronic

Differential Lock

(H1/H2 Models)

NOTE: The actuator is not a serviceable compo-

nent. If it is defective, it must be replaced.

NOTE: The actuator will operate only when the

ignition switch is in the ON position.

The front drive actuator is located on the side of the

front drive input housing. With the engine stopped and

the ignition switch in the ON position, a momentary

“whirring” sound can be heard each time the front

drive selector switch is shifted (400/500) or the elec-

tronic differential lock is activated (H1/H2 models). If

no sound is heard, see Section 5. If the actuator runs

constantly or makes squealing or grinding sounds, the

actuator must be replaced.

REMOVING

1. Disconnect the connector on the actuator harness.

2. Using a T-30 torx wrench, remove the mounting

cap screw from the driveshaft side of the actuator.

AG926

3. Remove the mounting cap screw from below the

actuator on the suspension side.

Ring Gear Backlash 0.28-0.38 mm (0.011-0.015 in.)

Ring Gear End Play 0.1-0.2 mm (0.004-0.008 in.)

Size New

Housing

Reassembled

Housing

M6 (Torx T-30 Recess) 8-9.5 ft-lb 6.5-9 ft-lb

M8 (Torx T-40 Recess) 25-31 ft-lb 21-25 ft-lb

M10 (Torx T-50 Recess) 37-45.5 ft-lb 31-38 ft-lb

Description p/n

CV Boot Clamp Tool 0444-120

CV Boot Clamp Tool 0444-250

Internal Hex Socket 0444-104

Pinion Gear/Shaft Removal Tool 0444-127

Slide Hammer Kit 0444-225

Seal Installation Tool 0444-224

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6-3

AG927

4. Loosen but do not remove the mounting cap screw

at the front of the actuator; then slide the actuator

to the rear enough to clear the slotted mounting tab

and the selector shaft.

AG928

INSTALLING

NOTE: On the H1/H2 models, make sure to prop-

erly align the differential lock actuator lever with

the hole in the differential lock plunger.

1. Lubricate the O-rings on the actuator; then ensure

that all mounting surfaces are clean and free of

debris.

2. Align the actuator with the selector shaft and slide

it forward onto the shaft taking care to engage the

cap screw in the slot of the front mounting tab.

AG925

3. While holding the actuator firmly forward, tighten

the front cap screw to hold the actuator in place;

then install but do not tighten the two remaining

cap screws.

AG928

4. Loosen the front cap screw; then tighten the cap

screw on the driveshaft side.

AG926

NOTE: It is important to tighten this cap screw

while the others are loose to ensure proper seating

of the actuator.

5. Tighten the remaining cap screws; then connect

the electrical plug to the main harness.

6. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and

check the operation by shifting the selector switch

several times.

7. Secure the wiring harness to the frame with a

nylon cable tie; then install the inner fender panel.

Front Differential

NOTE: To remove the rear gear case, see Rear

Gear Case in this section.

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6-4

REMOVING DIFFERENTIAL

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

2. Remove the drain plug and drain the gear lubricant

into a drain pan; then reinstall the plug and tighten

to 45 in.-lb.

ATV0082A

3. Remove the front wheels.

4. Pump up the hand brake; then engage the brake

lever lock.

5. Remove the cotter pin securing the hex nut; then

remove the hex nut and washer.

KX041

6. Release the brake lever lock.

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake

hoses from the calipers for this procedure.

7. Remove the two brake calipers. Account for the

four cap screws.

AF894D

8. Remove the tie rod cotter pins and discard the

pins.

AF895D

9. Remove the tie rod lock nuts.

AF896D

10. Remove the upper ball joint cap screws taking care

not to strip the threads on the ball joint shaft; then

using a rubber mallet, tap the end of the axle and

free it from the knuckle assembly.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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6-5

AF628D

11. Pull the steering knuckle away from the axle.

KX151

12. Support the axle to not allow it to drop or hang.

13. Remove the lower shock bolts. Account for the

lock nuts; then move the shocks aside and secure

them with a strap.

AF897D

14. Remove the upper A-arm lock nuts and cap

screws; then remove the A-arms.

AF610D

15. Using a slide hammer, remove the front axles.

AF899D

16. Remove the inner fender panels.

17. Using a T-30 torx wrench, remove the three screws

securing the front drive actuator to the gear case;

then remove the actuator.

AG925

18. Remove the lower differential mounting cap

screw. Account for a lock nut and washers.

! CAUTION

The axle must be supported. If the axle is allowed to

drop or hang, damage to the inner CV joint may occur.

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6-6

CD026

19. Remove the upper differential mounting cap

screws.

CD016

20. Free the differential assembly from the frame

mountings; then shift the differential assembly for-

ward enough to disengage the front driveshaft

from the output yoke.

KX161

21. Place the differential on its right side; then remove

it from the frame.

KX159

Disassembling Input Shaft

NOTE: This procedure can be performed on a

rear gear case; however, some components may

vary from model to model. The technician should

use discretion and sound judgment.

1. Using a T-40 torx wrench, remove the cap screws

securing the pinion housing.

CD102

2. Using a rubber mallet, remove the housing.

Account for a gasket. Remove the fork, collar, and

spring. Note the location of all the components for

assembling purposes.

CD103

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6-7

CD106

3. Using a boot-clamp pliers (or suitable substitute),

remove the boot clamps; then remove the boots

and splined drive from the input shaft.

4. Remove the input shaft from the pinion housing.

CD107

5. Using a seal removal tool, remove the input shaft

seal. Account for a spacer.

AF982

6. Remove the snap ring securing the input shaft

bearing; then place the pinion housing in a press

and remove the bearing.

AF983

AF984

KX219

Assembling Input Shaft

1. Place the pinion housing in a press and install the

input shaft bearing. Secure the bearing with the

existing snap ring making sure the sharp edge of

the snap ring faces to the outside.

AF993

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6-8

AF994

2. Install the input shaft seal making sure it is flush

with the edge of the housing.

3. Lubricate the input shaft splines with High-Perfor-

mance #2 Molybdenum Disulphide Grease.

NOTE: Any time drive splines are separated,

clean all splines with parts-cleaning solvent and

dry with compressed air; then lubricate with rec-

ommended grease.

KX221

KX222

4. Install the input shaft into the pinion housing; then

install the front boot and secure with an appropri-

ate boot clamp and the rear boot with an appropri-

ate boot clamp.

CD112

CD099

5. Place the pinion housing with new gasket onto the

gear case housing; then secure with the existing

cap screws. Tighten to 23 ft-lb.

NOTE: If a new gear case housing is being

installed, tighten the cap screws to 25-31 ft-lb.

CD103

Disassembling Pinion Gear

NOTE: This procedure can be performed on a

rear gear case.

1. Using a T-40 torx wrench, remove the cap screws

securing the pinion housing. Account for the cou-

pler, fork, and spring.

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6-9

KX209

2. Using a T-40 torx wrench, remove the cap screws

securing the gear case cover. Account for and

make note of the ID tag location for assembling

purposes.

KX173

3. Using a plastic mallet, tap lightly to remove the

differential cover. Account for an O-ring.

KX174

NOTE: If the cover is difficult to remove, pry on

the cover in more than one recessed location.

4. Remove the splined coupler, shifter fork, pin, and

spring of the differential lock assembly and set

aside. Note position of parts for assembling pur-

poses.

KX175

5. Remove the left gear case bearing flange assembly

and account for a shim. Mark the shim as left-side.

KX177

KX178

6. Place the differential with the open side down;

then lift the housing off the spider assembly.

Account for shim(s) and mark as right-side.

KX179

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6-10

KX181

7. Using the 48 mm Internal Hex Socket, remove the

lock collar securing the pinion gear assembly.

NOTE: On a front differential, the lock collar has

right-hand threads. On a rear gear case, the lock

collar has left-hand threads.

CC875

CC876

8. Using the Pinion Gear/Shaft Removal Tool and a

hammer, remove the pinion gear from the gear

case housing.

CC878

9. Secure the pinion gear in a bearing puller; then

remove the pinion bearing using a press. Account

for a collar and a bearing.

CC879

NOTE: If gears are being replaced, use the exist-

ing shims. The numbers are scribed onto the

gears: the ring gear has the number on the oppo-

site side of the gears, and the pinion gear has the

number on the end of the pinion gear shaft by the

splines. If no number is present, it should be con-

sidered as being in the 0 category.

NOTE: If the gear case housing is being replaced,

proceed to the following Shimming Proce-

dure/Shim Selection sub-section.

Shimming Procedure/Shim

Selection

1. Press bearings into bores by outer ring to contact

with seat.

2. Install the lock collar and tighten to 125 ft-lb; then

on final assembling, stake the lock collar edge

approximately 1.5 mm into the lower oil channel.

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6-11

CC891

3. Note the following shim selections (shims are

nominally 1.5 mm thick):

738-268C

A. Cover Side - add value A on the gear case hous-

ing to value B on the gear case cover; then add

1.5 mm. This will give you the proper shim

thickness.

NOTE: When shimming a rear gear case, add

value A to value B.

B. Gear Case Side - install a 1.3-1.4 mm shim and

tighten the bolts to 28 ft-lb. Verify backlash to

be within a range of 0.28-0.38 mm (0.011-0.015

in.) and end-play to be within a range of

0.10-0.20 mm (0.004-0.008 in.). If not within

specification range, reselect shim until backlash

specification range can be verified.

4. Prior to final assembling, apply molybdenum dis-

ulfide grease to all oil seal lips.

5. Prior to final assembling, prelubricate journal on

pinion assembly with SAE 80W-90 hypoid gear

lubricant prior to pressing assembly into gear case

housing.

Assembling Pinion Gear

1. Install the bearing onto the pinion shaft. Install the

pinion shaft collar.

CC882

CC883

2. Place the pinion assembly in a bearing puller; then

install the bearing using a press.

CC884

3. Install the pinion gear assembly into the housing.

Using the 48 mm Internal Hex Socket, secure the

pinion gear assembly with the existing lock collar.

Tighten to 125 ft-lb.

NOTE: On a front differential, the lock collar has

right-hand threads. On a rear gear case, the lock

collar has left-hand threads.

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6-12

CC890

4. Place a punch on the edge of the lock collar in the

oil gallery area; then using a hammer, stake the

lock collar to ensure that the collar will remain

securely tightened.

CC891

5. Install the shift fork shaft w/spring into the gear

housing making sure the shaft O-ring is positioned

to the inside.

CC892

6. Install the shift fork assembly making sure the fork

leg is facing upward. Apply a small amount of oil

to the gasket; then install the gasket.

CC893

7. Place the pinion housing assembly onto the gear

housing; then secure with the existing cap screws.

Tighten to 23 ft-lb.

NOTE: If a new gear housing is being installed,

tighten the cap screws to 25-31 ft-lb.

CD103

CD110

8. Install the proper shim onto the ring gear spider

assembly making sure the chamfer side of the

shim is facing toward the ring gear. Install the ring

gear in the housing; then install the outside shim

with the chamfer side of the shim toward the ring

gear.

NOTE: The spider and ring gear assembly must

be replaced as a complete unit.

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6-13

CC896

CC897

9. Assemble the fork and sliding collar into the cover

assembly; then install left bearing flange/bearing

assembly and seat it firmly into the cover.

CF266A

CF267A

10. Apply a liberal amount of grease to the O-ring;

then install it on the assembled cover assembly

making sure to seat the O-ring down around the

circumference of the bearing flange.

11. Making sure the O-ring is properly positioned on

the differential/gear case cover assembly, install

the cover with existing hardware. Account for the

ID tag. Tighten the cap screws (coated with green

Loctite #609) to 23 ft-lb.

NOTE: Grease can be applied to the O-ring for

ease of assembling.

NOTE: If a new gear case housing is being

installed, tighten the cap screws to 25-31 ft-lb.

Removing Needle Bearing

NOTE: Removing the needle bearing is rarely

necessary. Avoid removing the needle bearing

unless the bearing is clearly damaged.

NOTE: This procedure can be performed on a

rear gear case.

1. Place a 1/4 in. drill bit on the inside surface of the

needle bearing (against the bottom side); then drill

through the pinion shaft needle bearing housing.

CC885

2. Using a propane torch, heat the area surrounding

the needle bearing to soften the Loctite.

CC886

3. Using a flat-nosed punch, drive the bearing out of

the housing.

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CC887

Installing Needle Bearing

1. Apply red Loctite #271 to the outside of a new

bearing; then place the new bearing into the hous-

ing.

CC888

2. Using a suitable driver, install the needle bearing

into the gear case housing making sure the bearing

is seated.

NOTE: Do not push the bearing too far into the

housing.

CC889

3. Install the pinion shaft and secure with the existing

48 mm lock collar. Tighten to 125 ft-lb.

CC890

4. Place a punch on the edge of the lock collar in the

oil gallery area; then using a hammer, stake the

lock collar to ensure that the collar will remain

securely tightened.

CC891

5. Install the pinion housing.

Removing/Installing Axle Seal

NOTE: This procedure can be performed on a

rear gear case.

1. Remove the seal using a seal removal tool.

CC899

2. Using a press, remove the bearing.

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CC900

3. Using a press, install the new bearing into the

housing.

CC901

NOTE: Prior to installing the seal, apply High Per-

formance #2 Molybdenum Disulphide Grease to

the seal outside diameter.

4. Using an appropriate seal installation tool, evenly

press the seal into the cover bore until seated.

CF278

5. Repeat steps 1-4 for the opposite side.

INSTALLING DIFFERENTIAL

1. Align the splined input yoke with the front output

splines; then place the differential into position on

the frame and install the cap screws, washers, and

flex-lock nuts. Tighten to 38 ft-lb. Make sure the

rubber boot is properly seated on the input yoke.

CD857

CD859

2. Pour 275 ml (9.3 fl oz) of SAE 80W-90 hypoid

gear lubricant into the differential and install the

filler plug. Tighten to 16 ft-lb.

3. Install the front drive actuator with the three

torx-head cap screws; then connect the wire con-

nector to the main wiring harness.

AG925

4. Install the inner fender panels.

5. Install the front axles (see Drive Axles in this sec-

tion).

! CAUTION

Make sure the tool is free of nicks or sharp edges or

the seal will be damaged.

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6-16

6. Secure the upper A-arms with cap screws and lock

nuts. Tighten to 35 ft-lb.

AF610D

7. Secure the lower shock eyelets with cap screws

and lock nuts. Tighten to 35 ft-lb (400/500/H1

models) or to 50 ft-lb (H2 models).

AF897D

8. Secure the tie rods with the lock nuts. Tighten to

30 ft-lb; then install and spread the cotter pins.

AF896D

AF895D

9. Install the brake calipers and secure with the

patch-lock cap screws tightened to 20 ft-lb.

AF894D

10. Install the wheels and tighten to 40 ft-lb.

11. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Drive Axles

REMOVING REAR DRIVE AXLE

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

2. Pump up the hand brake; then engage the brake

lever lock.

3. Remove the wheel.

4. Remove the cotter pin securing the hex nut; then

remove the hex nut. Release the brake lever lock.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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6-17

KX041

5. Remove the two brake calipers (right side only).

NOTE: Do not allow the brake calipers to hang

from their cable/hose.

6. Slide the hub out of the knuckle and set aside.

7. Remove the cap screw and lock nut securing the

knuckle to the upper A-arm. Discard the lock nut.

NOTE: Never reuse a lock nut. Once a lock nut

has been removed, it must be replaced with a new

lock nut.

8. While holding the drive axle stationary, pull the

top of the knuckle out and down until it is free of

the drive axle.

9. Place a drain pan under the ATV to contain any oil

leakage; then using a slide hammer, remove the

drive axle.

AF935

REMOVING FRONT DRIVE AXLE

NOTE: For removing a front drive axle, see Front

Differential in this section.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Always clean and inspect the drive axle

components to determine if any service or replace-

ment is necessary.

1. Using a clean towel, wipe away any oil or grease

from the axle components.

CD019

2. Inspect boots for any tears, cracks, or deteriora-

tion.

NOTE: If a boot is damaged in any way, it must be

replaced with a boot kit.

3. Inspect the gear case seals for nicks or damage.

DISASSEMBLING AXLES

1. Using a side-cutters (or suitable substitute),

remove the large clamp from the boot.

CD020

2. Wipe away excess grease to access the retaining

ring. Using an awl, remove the circlip.

! CAUTION

The calipers should be supported. If the calipers are

allowed to hang from the cable/hose, damage may

occur.

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6-18

CD021

3. Using a snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring

securing the bearing ring to the shaft. Note the

direction of the bearing for assembling purposes.

CD023

4. Note the difference inside each bearing ring end

for assembling purposes; then remove the bearing

ring.

NOTE: The recess of the bearing must face

toward the housing.

CD022

5. Inspect the splines of the shaft, the bearing ring,

and the housing for damage.

NOTE: If any damage is apparent to the splines,

the bearing ring, and/or the housing, the drive axle

must be replaced as an assembly.

6. Using a side-cutters (or suitable substitute),

remove the small clamp from the shaft.

CD752

NOTE: At this point if the outside boot is dam-

aged, continue with step 7.

7. Using a side-cutters (or suitable substitute),

remove both outside boot clamps from the shaft.

Note the position of the different-sized clamps for

assembling purposes.

CD751

8. Apply 40 grams (1/3 of contents) of grease from

the Grease Pack into the knuckles and the new out-

side boot.

ATV-1052

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6-19

NOTE: Grease Pack contains 120 grams of

grease. The inside joint (double-offset) requires

approximately 70-90 grams of grease and the out-

side (bell-type) requires approximately 35-55

grams. When replacing boots, use 2/3 of the pack

for inside boots and 1/3 of the pack for outside

boots.

9. Slide the new outside boot onto the shaft with the

new clamps positioned as shown. Note the differ-

ent-sized clamps from removal.

NOTE: The boot is positioned correctly when the

small end of the boot seats down into the recessed

groove.

CD754

10. Using the CV Boot Clamp Tool, secure both out-

side boot clamps.

CD024

ASSEMBLING AXLES

1. Install the inner boot with the small clamp making

sure the ends of the clamp are positioned correctly.

NOTE: The boot is positioned correctly when the

small end of the boot seats down into the recessed

groove.

CD754

2. Using the boot clamp pliers, secure the small

clamp of the inner boot.

ATV-1048

3. Apply 80 grams (2/3 of contents) of grease from

the pack into the bearing housing.

4. Install the bearing onto the shaft making sure the

recess of the bearing is facing the housing.

CD022

5. Secure the bearing ring with the snap ring making

sure the sharp side of the snap ring faces away

from the boot.

! CAUTION

Do no over-fill the joint as boot damage may occur

resulting in joint failure.

! CAUTION

It is important that the clamps are positioned correctly

or they may loosen when in motion.

! CAUTION

The bearing ring must go onto the shaft with the side

without splines facing toward the small clamp of the

inner boot or severe damage will result.

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6-20

CD023

6. Making sure the marks made during disassembling

align, slide the housing over the bearing ring; then

completely seat the bearing ring into the housing

and install the circlip.

NOTE: Pull the bearing ring out of the housing

until it contacts the circlip; then slide the ring in

half way. This will purge air from the housing and

ensure the bearing is packed properly.

CD021

7. Slide the boot over the housing; then using the

boot clamp pliers, secure the boot with the clamp.

CD024

8. Inspect the axle components for correct position-

ing of the four clamps. Also, inspect the boots for

being correctly positioned on the shaft.

INSTALLING REAR DRIVE AXLE

1. Slide the drive axle into place in the gear case.

NOTE: To assure proper seating of the axle, give

it a light pull; the axle should remain “clipped” in

place.

2. Swing the knuckle up and onto the drive axle; then

place the knuckle into place in the upper A-arm.

Secure the knuckle to the A-arm with a cap screw

and a new lock nut. Tighten to 35 ft-lb

(400/500/H1 models) or to 50 ft-lb (H2 models).

3. Place the hub into position on the axle followed by a

hex nut. Tighten the hex nut finger-tight at this time.

4. If the brake calipers were removed, position them

on the knuckle and secure with existing cap

screws. Tighten the auxiliary brake caliper cap

screws to 20 ft-lb. Tighten the hydraulic brake cal-

iper cap screws to 20 ft-lb.

5. Pump up the hand brake lever; then engage the

brake lever lock.

6. Tighten the hub hex nut (from step 3) to 200 ft-lb;

then install and spread a new cotter pin making

sure each side of the pin is flush to the hub nut.

CD027

7. Install the wheel. Tighten to 40 ft-lb.

8. Remove the ATV from the support stand and

release the brake lever lock.

INSTALLING FRONT DRIVE AXLE

1. Position the drive axle in the gear case and steer-

ing knuckle; then insert the upper A-arm ball joint

into the steering knuckle. Secure with a cap screw

tightened to 35 ft-lb.

2. Place the brake hose into position on the upper

A-arm; then secure the lower shock eyelet to the

A-arm with a cap screw and a new lock nut.

Tighten to 35 ft-lb.

3. Secure the tie rod to the steering knuckle with a

new lock nut. Tighten securely; then install and

spread a new cotter pin.

4. Slide the hub w/brake disc into position in the

steering knuckle followed by a washer and hex

nut. Tighten finger-tight at this time.

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6-21

5. Install the brake caliper on the steering knuckle.

Tighten to 20 ft-lb; then pump up the hand brake

lever and engage the brake lever lock.

6. Tighten the hub hex nut (from step 4) to 200 ft-lb;

then install and spread a new cotter pin making

sure each side of the pin is flush to the hub nut.

CD027

7. Install the wheel and tighten to 40 ft-lb.

8. Remove the ATV from the support stand and

release the brake lever lock.

9. Check the front differential oil level and add oil as

necessary.

CF113A

Rear Gear Case

REMOVING

1. Remove the left-side rear A-arms (see Rear

A-Arms in Section 7).

2. Remove both of the rear drive axles (see Drive

Axles in this section).

3. Remove the four cap screws securing the engine

output shaft to the rear gear case input flange.

CD028

4. Remove the two cap screws and lock nuts securing

the rear gear case to the frame; then remove the

gear case through the left side.

AF960A

REAR DRIVE INPUT SHAFT/

HOUSING (H2 Models)

Removing/Disassembling

1. Remove the cap screws securing the rear drive

input shaft/housing to the rear gear case; then

remove the input housing assembly.

GZ183

 AT THIS POINT

For servicing the input shaft (500/H1 models), pinion

gear, needle bearing, and axle seal, see Front Differen-

tial in this section.

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6-22

2. Remove the clutch pack from the clutch basket;

then remove the snap ring securing the clutch bas-

ket (A) to the input shaft (B) and remove the

clutch basket.

GZ392

GZ176A

GZ177

3. Remove the input shaft from the input housing;

then remove the oil seal.

GZ180

GZ182A

4. Remove the snap ring retaining the input bearing

and using an appropriate bearing driver, press the

bearing from the housing.

GZ184A

Cleaning and Inspecting

1. Wash all parts in parts cleaning solvent and dry

with compressed air.

2. Clean all gasket material and sealant from mating

surfaces.

3. Inspect bearings, shafts, and housing for excessive

wear, cracks, or discoloration.

4. Inspect the clutch basket for wear in splines or

cracks in the housing.

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when working with com-

pressed air.

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6-23

GZ178A

5. Inspect the clutch pack for signs of discoloration.

NOTE: The clutch pack is not a serviceable com-

ponent. If worn, discolored, or damaged in any

way, it must be replaced.

Assembling/Installing

1. Install a new bearing into the input housing and

secure with the snap ring (flat side directed away

from bearing).

GZ184

2. Using a suitable seal driver, install a new oil seal

into the front of the input housing until the seal

flush with the housing.

GZ182A

3. Apply grease to the lips of the oil seal; then install

the input shaft into the input bearing and housing.

GZ179A

4. Install the clutch basket onto the input shaft and

secure with the snap ring (flat side directed out-

ward); then install the clutch pack into the basket.

GZ176

5. Using a new gasket, install the assembled rear

drive input shaft/housing onto the rear drive gear

case and secure with the three cap screws. Tighten

to 23 ft-lb.

INSTALLING

1. Slide the gear case into position through the left

side of the frame; then secure it to the frame with

cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten to 45 ft-lb.

2. Secure the engine output shaft to the rear gear case

input flange with four cap screws (coated with red

Loctite #271) and lock nuts. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

3. Install the rear drive axles (see Drive Axles in this

section).

4. Install the left-side rear A-arms (see Rear A-Arms

in Section 7).

Hub

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheel; then remove the wheel.

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6-24

2. Remove the cotter pin from the nut.

NOTE: During assembly, new cotter pins should

be installed.

KX041

3. Remove the flange nut securing the hub.

4. Remove the brake caliper.

PR243A

5. Remove the hub assembly.

6. Remove the four cap screws securing the brake

disc.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all hub components.

2. Inspect all threads for stripping or damage.

3. Inspect the brake disc for cracks or warping.

4. Inspect the hub for pits, cracks, loose studs, or

spline wear.

INSTALLING

1. Secure the brake disc to the hub with the four cap

screws coated with blue Loctite #243. Tighten to

15 ft-lb.

2. Apply grease to the splines in the hub.

3. Install the hub assembly onto the shaft.

PR290

4. Secure the hub assembly with the nut. Tighten

only until snug.

5. Secure the brake caliper to the knuckle with the

two cap screws. Tighten the auxiliary caliper to 20

ft-lb. Tighten the hydraulic caliper to 20 ft-lb.

PR243A

6. Tighten the hub nut (from step 4) to 200 ft-lb; then

install and spread a new cotter pin making sure

each side of the pin is flush to the hub nut.

PR260

7. Install the wheel and tighten to 40 ft-lb.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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6-25

8. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Hydraulic Brake Caliper

NOTE: The brake calliper is a non-serviceable

component; it must be replaced as an assembly.

REMOVING/DISASSEMBLING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheel; then remove the wheel.

2. Drain the brake fluid from the caliper, hose, and

master cylinder.

PR235

3. Remove the brake hose from the caliper; then

remove the caliper and plug the brake fluid port.

4. Compress the caliper holder against the caliper

and remove the outer brake pad; then remove the

inner brake pad.

PR237

PR238

5. Remove the caliper holder from the caliper and

account for the brake caliper O-ring. Do not

remove the piston from the caliper.

PR239B

6. Plug the fluid port with a suitable plug to prevent

contamination during cleaning.

PR240A

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

1. Clean all caliper components (except the brake

pads) with parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Inspect the brake pads for damage and excessive

wear.

NOTE: For measuring brake pads, see Section 2.

ASSEMBLING/INSTALLING

1. Install the caliper onto the caliper holder making

sure the caliper is correctly oriented on the holder.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

! CAUTION

Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake fluid

on any surface of the ATV and do not reuse brake

fluid.

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6-26

PR239C

2. Compress the caliper holder toward the caliper and

install the inner brake pad; then install the outer

pad.

PR238

PR239

3. Place the brake caliper assembly into position and

secure with the cap screws. Tighten the caliper to

20 ft-lb.

4. Place a new crush washer on each side of the brake

hose fitting and install it on the caliper. Tighten to

20 ft-lb.

5. Fill the reservoir; then bleed the brake system (see

Section 2).

6. Install the wheel. Tighten to 40 ft-lb.

7. Remove the ATV from the support stand and ver-

ify brake operation.

Troubleshooting Drive

System

Problem: Power not transmitted from engine to wheels

Condition Remedy

1. Rear axle shafts serration worn - broken 1. Replace shaft

Problem: Power not transmitted from engine to either front wheel

Condition Remedy

1. Secondary drive - driven gear teeth broken

2. Propeller shaft serration worn - broken

3. Coupling damaged

4. Coupling joint serration worn - damaged

5. Front drive - driven bevel gears broken - damaged

6. Front differential gears/pinions broken - damaged

7. Sliding dogs/shaft fork worn - damaged

8. Front drive axle worn - damaged

9. Front drive axle serration worn - damaged

1. Replace gear(s)

2. Replace shaft

3. Replace coupling

4. Replace joint

5. Replace gear(s)

6. Replace gears - pinions

7. Replace gear(s)

8. Replace axle

9. Replace axle

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6-27

Troubleshooting Brake

System

Problem: Braking poor

Condition Remedy

1. Pad worn

2. Pedal free-play excessive

3. Brake fluid leaking

4. Hydraulic system spongy

5. Master cylinder/brake cylinder seal worn

1. Replace pads

2. Replace pads

3. Repair - replace hydraulic system component(s)

4. Bleed hydraulic system - correct or repair leaks

5. Replace master cylinder

Problem: Brake lever travel excessive

Condition Remedy

1. Hydraulic system entrapped air

2. Brake fluid low

3. Brake fluid incorrect

4. Piston seal - cup worn

1. Bleed hydraulic system

2. Add fluid to proper level

3. Drain system - replace with correct fluid

4. Replace master cylinder

Problem: Brake fluid leaking

Condition Remedy

1. Connection joints loose

2. Hose cracked

3. Piston seal worn

1. Tighten joint

2. Replace hose

3. Replace brake caliper

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7-1

SECTION 7 - SUSPENSION

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Suspension ............................................................. 7-2

Shock Absorbers ..................................................... 7-2

Front A-Arms ........................................................... 7-3

Rear A-Arms ........................................................... 7-5

Wheels and Tires .................................................... 7-7

Troubleshooting ....................................................... 7-8

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7-2

Suspension

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located

in Section 1.

Shock Absorbers

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels and to release load on the suspension.

2. Remove the two cap screws and nuts securing

each front shock absorber to the frame and the

upper A-arm. Account for bushings and sleeves

from each.

AF605D

3. Remove the two cap screws and nut securing each

rear shock absorber to the frame and lower A-arm.

Account for bushings and sleeves from each.

AF626D

4. Compress the shock absorber spring, remove the

retainer, and remove the spring.

AF730D

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all shock absorber components using a pres-

sure washer.

2. Inspect each shock rod for nicks, pits, rust, bends,

and oily residue.

3. Inspect all springs, spring retainers, shock rods,

sleeves, bushings, shock bodies, and eyelets for

cracks, leaks, and bends.

INSTALLING

1. Place the shock absorber spring over the shock

absorber, compress the spring, and install the

retainer.

2. Place bushings and sleeves (where appropriate)

into shock eyelet; then install shock with two cap

screws and nuts. Tighten all front suspension nuts

to 35 ft-lb. Tighten rear suspension nuts (upper) to

35 ft-lb (400/500/H1 models); tighten rear suspen-

sion nuts (upper) to 50 ft-lb (H2 models).

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

! CAUTION

Additional support stands are necessary to support

the rear axle when the shock absorbers are removed

or damage may occur.

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7-3

NOTE: The rear shock absorber-to-lower A-arm

torque factor is 20 ft-lb.

3. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Front A-Arms

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

front wheels; then remove the wheels.

2. Remove the cotter pin from the nut. Discard the

cotter pin.

CD008

3. Remove the nut securing the hub.

4. Remove the brake caliper. Account for two cap

screws.

CD007

5. Remove the hub assembly.

6. Remove the cotter pin and slotted nut securing the

tie rod end to the knuckle; then remove the tie rod

end from the knuckle.

AF618D

7. Remove the cap screws securing the ball joints to

the knuckle.

AF628D

8. Tap the ball joints out of the knuckle; then remove

the knuckle.

9. Remove the lower shock absorber eyelet from the

upper A-arm.

10. Remove the cap screws securing the A-arms to the

frame.

AF610D

11. Remove the circlip from the ball joint; then

remove the ball joint from the A-arm.

! CAUTION

Do not tighten the nuts beyond the recommended

specification or the shock eyelet or mount WILL be

damaged.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

! CAUTION

Support the knuckle when removing the cap screws or

damage to the threads will occur.

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7-4

AF616D

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all A-arm components using a pressure

washer.

2. Clean the ball joint mounting hole of all residual

Loctite, grease, oil, or dirt for installing purposes.

3. Inspect the A-arm for bends, cracks, and worn

bushings.

4. Inspect the ball joint mounting holes for cracks or

damage.

5. Inspect the frame mounts for signs of damage,

wear, or weldment damage.

INSTALLING

1. Apply green Loctite #609 to the entire outside

diameter of the ball joint; then install the ball joint

into the A-arm and secure with the snap ring.

AF616D

2. Install the A-arm assemblies into the frame

mounts and secure with the cap screws. Only fin-

ger-tighten at this time.

AF610D

3. Route the brake hose through the upper A-arm

shock absorber mount; then secure the hose to the

A-arm with a cable tie and grommet.

DE054A

4. Secure the lower eyelet of the shock absorber to

the upper A-arm. Tighten nut to 35 ft-lb.

5. Secure the A-arm assemblies to the frame mounts

(from step 2). Tighten the cap screws to 35 ft-lb.

6. Install the knuckle assembly onto the ball joints

and secure with cap screws. Tighten to 35 ft-lb.

AF628D

7. Install the tie rod end and secure with the nut.

Tighten to 30 ft-lb; then install a new cotter pin

and spread the pin to secure the nut.

! CAUTION

Do not tighten the nut beyond the 35 ft-lb specification

or the shock eyelet or mount WILL be damaged.

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7-5

NOTE: During assembly, new cotter pins should

be installed.

AF618D

8. Apply grease to the hub and drive axle splines;

then install the hub assembly onto the drive axle.

CD009

9. Secure the hub assembly with the nut. Tighten

only until snug.

10. Secure the brake caliper to the knuckle with the

two Patch-lock cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

CD007

11. Secure the hub nut (from step 9) to the shaft/axle.

Tighten to 200 ft-lb.

12. Install a new cotter pin and spread the pin to

secure the nut.

CD008

13. Install the wheel and tighten to 40 ft-lb.

14. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Rear A-Arms

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

2. Pump up the hand brake; then engage the brake

lever lock.

3. Remove the wheel.

4. Remove the cotter pin securing the hex nut; then

remove the hex nut. Release the brake lever lock.

5. Remove the caliper (right side only).

NOTE: Do not allow the brake calipers to hang

from their cable/hose.

6. Remove the cap screws and lock nut securing the

shock absorber to the frame and lower A-arm; then

remove the shock absorber.

7. Remove the cap screws securing the boot guard to

the lower A-arm.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

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7-6

AF934

8. Slide the hub out of the knuckle and set aside.

9. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

knuckle to the A-arms. Discard the lock nuts.

NOTE: Never reuse a lock nut. Once a lock nut

has been removed, it must be replaced with a new

lock nut.

10. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

A-arms to the frame; then remove the A-arms.

NOTE: If removing the upper right A-arm, it will

be necessary to disconnect the brake hose from

the A-arm.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all A-arm components using a pressure

washer.

2. Inspect the A-arm for bends, cracks, and worn

bushings.

3. Inspect the frame mounts for signs of damage,

wear, or weldment damage.

INSTALLING

1. Install the A-arm assemblies into the frame

mounts and secure with the cap screws and new

lock nuts. Only finger-tighten at this time.

2. Slide the knuckle onto the drive axle and into posi-

tion on the A-arms; then secure the knuckle to the

A-arms with cap screws and new lock nuts.

Tighten to 35 ft-lb (400/500/H1 models) or to 50

ft-lb (H2 models).

3. Tighten the hardware securing the A-arms to the

frame mounts (from step 1) to 35 ft-lb

(400/500/H1 models) or to 50 ft-lb (H2 models).

4. Apply grease on the drive axle splines; then install

the hub assembly onto the drive axle.

PR290

5. Secure the hub assembly with the nut. Tighten

only until snug.

6. Secure the brake caliper to the knuckle with the

two cap screws (right side only). Tighten the cali-

per to 20 ft-lb.

NOTE: Ensure that the brake hose is properly

routed and secured to the upper A-arm.

DE054A

7. Compress the hand brake lever and engage the

brake lever lock; then secure the hub nut (from

step 5) to the drive axle. Tighten to 200 ft-lb.

8. Install a new cotter pin and spread the pin to

secure the nut.

PR260

9. Secure the shock absorber to the frame with a cap

screw and new lock nut. Tighten to 35 ft-lb

(400/500/H1 models) or to 50 ft-lb (H2 models).

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7-7

10. Secure the shock absorber to the lower A-arm with

a cap screw and new lock nut. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

11. Secure the boot guard to the lower A-arm with the

two cap screws. Tighten securely.

12. Install the wheel and tighten to 40 ft-lb.

13. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

Wheels and Tires

0741-559

TIRE SIZE

The ATV is equipped with low-pressure tubeless tires

of the size and type listed in Section 1. Do not under

any circumstances substitute tires of a different type or

size.

TIRE INFLATION PRESSURE

Front and rear tire inflation pressure should be 0.35

kg/cm² (5.0 psi).

REMOVING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheels.

2. Remove the wheels.

NOTE: Keep left-side and right-side wheels sepa-

rated for installing them on their proper sides.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean the wheels and hubs using a pressure

washer.

2. Inspect each wheel for cracks, dents, or bends.

3. Inspect each tire for cuts, wear, missing lugs, and

leaks.

INSTALLING

Install each wheel on its hub. Tighten to 40 ft-lb.

NOTE: Make sure each wheel is installed on its

proper hub as noted in removing (the “rotation

arrow” (if applicable) must indicate forward direc-

tion of rotation).

AF612D

CHECKING/INFLATING

1. Using an air pressure gauge, measure the air pres-

sure in each tire. Adjust the air pressure as neces-

sary to meet the recommended inflation pressure.

2. Inspect the tires for damage, wear, or punctures.

NOTE: Be sure all tires are the specified size and

have identical tread pattern.

3. Check the front wheel toe-in and toe-out and

adjust as necessary (see Section 8).

4. Test drive the ATV on a dry, level surface and note

any pulling to the left or right during acceleration,

deceleration, and braking.

! WARNING

Use only Arctic Cat approved tires when replacing

tires. Failure to do so could result in unstable ATV

operation.

! WARNING

Do not mix tire tread patterns. Use the same pattern

type on front and rear. Failure to heed warning could

cause poor handling qualities of the ATV and could

cause excessive drive train damage not covered by

warranty.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

KEY

1. Shoulder Screw

2. Brake Disc

3. Wheel Hub - Front

4. Hub Stud

5. Wheel Hub - Rear

6. Hex Nut

7. Cotter Pin

8. Wheel

9. Mounting Nut

10. Tire

11. Valve Stem

12. Valve Stem Cap

! WARNING

Do not operate the ATV if tire damage exists.

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7-8

NOTE: If pulling is noted, measure the circumfer-

ence of the front and rear tires on the pulling side.

Compare the measurements with the tires on the

opposite side. If pulling is noted during braking

only, check and adjust the brakes as necessary

and recheck operation (see Section 2).

5. Increase the air pressure in the tires with the small-

est circumference measurement until all tires are

equal in circumference.

6. Repeat steps 4-5 as necessary to ensure proper

handling.

Troubleshooting

Problem: Suspension too soft

Condition Remedy

1. Spring(s) weak

2. Shock absorber damaged

3. Shock absorber preload too low

1. Replace spring(s)

2. Replace shock absorber

3. Adjust shock absorber preload

Problem: Suspension too stiff

Condition Remedy

1. A-arm-related bushings worn

2. Shock absorber preload too high

1. Replace bushing

2. Adjust shock absorber preload

Problem: Suspension noisy

Condition Remedy

1. Cap screws (suspension system) loose

2. A-arm-related bushings worn

1. Tighten cap screws

2. Replace bushings

Problem: Rear wheel oscillation

Condition Remedy

1. Rear wheel hub bearings worn - loose

2. Tires defective - incorrect

3. Wheel rim distorted

4. Wheel hub cap screws loose

5. Axle shaft nut loose (manual transmission)

6. Auxiliary brake adjusted incorrectly

7. Rear suspension arm-related bushing worn

8. Rear shock absorber damaged

9. Rear suspension arm nut loose

1. Replace bearings

2. Replace tires

3. Replace rim

4. Tighten cap screws

5. Tighten nut (manual transmission)

6. Adjust brake

7. Replace bushing

8. Replace shock absorber

9. Tighten nut

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8-1

SECTION 8 - STEERING/FRAME

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Steering/Frame........................................................ 8-2

Steering Post/Tie Rods ........................................... 8-2

Handlebar Grip........................................................ 8-5

Steering Knuckles ................................................... 8-6

Measuring/Adjusting Toe-In..................................... 8-8

Front Rack............................................................... 8-9

Front Bumper Assembly .......................................... 8-9

Front Body Panel/Side Panels............................... 8-10

Footrests ............................................................... 8-13

Belly Panel ............................................................ 8-14

Exhaust System .................................................... 8-14

Rear Body Panel/Rack .......................................... 8-14

Taillight Assembly.................................................. 8-15

Seat....................................................................... 8-16

Troubleshooting ..................................................... 8-17

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8-2

Steering/Frame

NOTE: Critical torque specifications are located

in Section 1.

Steering Post/Tie Rods

REMOVING

1. Remove the ignition switch retaining ring; then

remove the reinstallable rivets securing the instru-

ment pod to the mounting bracket and remove the

pod and LCD gauge.

FI463A

FI464A

2. Remove the reinstallable rivets securing the radia-

tor access cover and remove the cover.

FI465A

3. Remove four reinstallable rivets securing the

steering post cover and remove the cover.

FI466A

4. Unlatch the storage compartment lid; then slide

the storage compartment cover assembly forward

and lift off.

FI467A

5. Remove the storage compartment.

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FI468

6. Remove the four cap screws securing the handle-

bar caps and speedometer bracket to the steering

post; then move the handlebar and speedometer

out of the way. Account for four handlebar caps.

CD762

7. Remove two cap screws securing the upper steer-

ing post bearing to the frame. Account for two

bearings and two housings.

CD760

8. Using a suitable lift stand, raise the ATV enough

to remove the front wheels.

CD685

9. Remove the cotter pins and slotted nuts from the

inner and outer tie rod ends; then remove the tie

rods from the steering post arm and the left-side

and right-side steering knuckles.

AF778D

KX039

10. Remove two cap screws securing the lower steer-

ing post bearing flange to the frame; then remove

the steering post.

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8-4

AL600D

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Wash the tie rod ends in parts-cleaning solvent.

Dry with compressed air. Inspect the pivot area for

wear. Apply a low-temperature grease to the ends.

2. Inspect the tie rods for damaged threads or wear.

3. Inspect the tie rods for cracks or unusual bends.

4. Inspect all welded areas for cracks or deteriora-

tion.

5. Inspect the steering post and steering-post brackets

for cracks, bends, or wear.

6. Inspect the bearing halves, bearing caps, and bear-

ing housings for cracks or wear.

7. Inspect the handlebar tube for cracks, wear, or

unusual bends.

8. Inspect the handlebar grips for damage or wear.

INSTALLING

1. Place the steering post into position; then secure

the lower bearing flange to the frame with two cap

screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

AL600D

2. Place the upper steering post bearings into the

housings; then position on the steering post and

secure the housings to the frame with two cap

screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

CD760

3. Install the tie rods and secure with the slotted nuts.

Tighten to 30 ft-lb; then install new cotter pins.

NOTE: If the slots do not align with the holes in

the tie rod ends, tighten the nuts just enough to

allow installation of the cotter pins.

AF778D

4. Install the front wheels and tighten to 40 ft-lb

using a crisscross pattern.

5. Lower the ATV and place the handlebar and caps

into position on the steering post; then position the

speedometer on top of the caps and secure with the

four cap screws. Tighten securely.

! WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when using compressed

air.

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8-5

6. Install the storage compartment box; then attach

the storage compartment cover assembly by

engaging the tabs into the slots and sliding rear-

ward. Lock the storage compartment lid to hold

the assembly in place.

7. Place the instrument pod into position; then secure

with two reinstallable rivets and the ignition

switch retaining ring.

FI464A

FI463A

8. Install the steering post access cover and secure

with four reinstallable rivets; then install and

secure the radiator access cover.

FI466A

FI465A

Handlebar Grip

REMOVING

1. Loosen but do not remove the cap screws in the

end of the handlebar; then tap lightly on the head

to dislodge the handlebar plug.

KC310

KC309A

2. Grasp the end and remove the cap screw, plug, and

end cap.

INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Inspect the grip for wear, cuts, or cracks.

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8-6

2. Inspect the grip for deterioration.

3. If a grip is damaged, cut the grip lengthwise using

a sharp knife or box cutter; the peel off the grip.

INSTALLING

NOTE: Before installing a grip, use contact spray

or alcohol to clean the handlebar of glue residue,

oil, or any other contaminant.

1. Apply a liberal amount of Handlebar Grip Adhe-

sive to the inside of a new grip.

2. Slide the grip onto the handlebar until it is fully

seated with the smooth part of the grip facing up.

3. Wipe off any excess glue; then secure the grip with

the handlebar end-cap.

Steering Knuckles

REMOVING AND DISASSEMBLING

1. Secure the ATV on a support stand to elevate the

wheel; then remove the wheel.

2. Remove the wheel cap from the hub; then remove

the cotter pin from the nut.

3. Remove the nut securing the hub.

4. Remove the brake caliper.

5. Remove the hub assembly.

6. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end and

remove the tie rod end from the knuckle.

7. Remove the two cap screws securing the ball

joints in the knuckle.

8. Tap the ball joint end out of the knuckle; then

remove the knuckle.

9. Remove the snap ring from the knuckle; then

remove the bearing.

PR287A

PR288

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all knuckle components.

2. Inspect the bearing for pits, gouges, rusting, or

premature wear.

3. Inspect the knuckle for cracks, breaks, or porosity.

4. Inspect threads for stripping or damage.

ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLING

1. Install the bearing; then install the snap ring mak-

ing sure it seats into the knuckle.

! WARNING

Make sure the ATV is solidly supported on the support

stand to avoid injury.

! CAUTION

Use extreme care when removing the bearing. If the

bearing is allowed to fall, it will be damaged and will

have to be replaced.

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8-7

PR287A

2. Install the knuckle to the upper and lower ball

joints and secure with the two cap screws. Tighten

to 35 ft-lb.

AF628D

3. Install the tie rod end and secure with the nut.

Tighten to 30 ft-lb; then install a new cotter pin

and spread the pin.

NOTE: During assembling, new cotter pins

should be installed.

AF618D

4. Apply a small amount of grease to the hub splines.

PR290A

5. Install the hub assembly onto the splines of the

shaft.

6. Secure the hub assembly with the nut. Tighten

only until snug.

PR257

7. Secure the brake caliper to the knuckle with the

two cap screws. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

PR264A

8. Pump the hand brake lever; then engage the brake

lever lock.

9. Secure the hub nut (from step 6) to the shaft.

Tighten to 200 ft-lb.

10. Install a new cotter pin and spread the pin to

secure the nut.

11. Install the wheel; then using a crisscross pattern,

tighten to 40 ft-lb.

12. Remove the ATV from the support stand.

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8-8

Measuring/

Adjusting Toe-In

1. Thoroughly wash the ATV to remove excess

weight (mud, etc.).

2. Refer to the specifications and ensure the tires are

properly inflated to the recommended pressure.

NOTE: Ensure the inflation pressure is correct in

the tires or inaccurate measurements can occur.

3. Place the ATV in a level position taking care not to

push down or lift up on the front end; then turn the

handlebar to the straight ahead position.

NOTE: When measuring and adjusting, there

should be a normal operating load on the ATV

(without an operator but with Arctic Cat approved

accessories).

4. Measure the distance from the outside edge of

each handlebar grip to equal reference points on

each.

DE047A

5. Adjust the handlebar direction until the two mea-

surements are equal; then secure the handlebar to

the rear rack using tie-down straps.

NOTE: Care must be taken not to allow the han-

dlebar to turn while securing it.

CD014

6. Measure the distance from the inside of each front

rim to the lower frame tube.

AF785D

AF786D

NOTE: The distances from the inside rims to the

frame tubes should be equal. If the measurements

are equal, proceed to step 8; if the measurements

are not equal, proceed to step 7.

7. To make the measurements equal, loosen the

appropriate tie rod jam nuts and adjust accord-

ingly; then proceed to step 8.

AF617D

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8-9

AF778D

NOTE: The front wheels do not have to be

removed to adjust the tie rod. Also, care should be

taken not to disturb the handlebar position.

8. Using a permanent marker of some type, mark the

center of each front tire (at a height parallel to the

belly panel).

AF789D

9. Measure the distance between the marks (at a

height parallel to the belly panel) at the front side;

then record the measurement.

10. Push the ATV forward until the marks are parallel

to the belly panel on the back side; then measure

the distance between the marks.

11. The difference in the measurements must show

1/8-1/4 in. toe-in (the front measurement 1/8-1/4

in. less than the rear measurement).

12. If the difference in the measurements is not within

specifications, adjust both tie rods equally until

within specifications.

NOTE: Prior to locking the jam nuts, make sure

the ball joints are at the center of their normal

range of motion and at the correct angle.

733-559A

Front Rack

REMOVING

1. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

rack to the frame and front fender panel.

2. Remove the front rack from the ATV.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all rack components using a pressure

washer.

2. Inspect all welds for cracking or bending.

3. Inspect threaded areas of all mounting bosses for

stripping.

4. Inspect for missing decals and/or reflectors.

INSTALLING

1. Place the rack into position on the frame and front

fender panel. Install the cap screws and lock nuts

and finger-tighten only.

2. Install the two cap screws and lock nuts securing

the rack to the fenders. Tighten all hardware

securely.

Front Bumper Assembly

REMOVING

1. Remove the two flange bolts and lock nuts secur-

ing the upper bumper supports to the bumper.

2. Remove the through-bolt and lock nut securing the

bumper to the frame; then remove the bumper.

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8-10

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all bumper components with parts-cleaning

solvent.

2. Inspect all welds for cracking or bending.

INSTALLING

1. Place the front bumper assembly into position and

install the through-bolt. Start the lock nut and fin-

ger-tighten only.

2. Install the two flange bolts and lock nuts on the

upper supports. Tighten all hardware securely.

Front Body Panel/

Side Panels

REMOVING

1. Remove the reinstallable rivets securing the radia-

tor access cover and remove the cover; then

remove four reinstallable rivets securing the steer-

ing post cover and remove the cover.

FI465A

FI466A

2. Unlock the storage compartment lid; then slide the

storage compartment cover assembly forward and

lift off the storage compartment.

FI467

3. Remove the storage compartment box; then

remove the seat.

FI468

4. Remove the ignition switch retaining ring and two

reinstallable rivets securing the instrument pod;

then remove the instrument pod.

FI463A

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8-11

FI464A

5. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

front rack to the frame; then remove the front rack.

Account for the grommets and bushings.

FI469A

6. Remove the side panels by pulling on them to

release the tabs from the body; then remove the

screws securing the rear of the front panel to the

frame.

CF237A

FI470A

7. Remove the left and right footwells; then remove

the shift knob. Remove the shift lever pivot axle

nut and remove the axle and shift lever. Account

for a spring and two O-rings.

CD779

CD780A

8. Disconnect four headlight connectors and secure

the wires out of the way; then disconnect the wires

to the front accessory plug.

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8-12

CD681

9. Rotate the handlebar to the full-left position; then

lift and slide the panel to the rear and lift the rear

up to clear the handlebar.

CD765A

NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the body

panel to the right to align the opening with the han-

dlebar.

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all fender components with warm soap and

water.

2. Inspect fenders for cracks and/or loose rivets.

3. Inspect for any missing decals.

INSTALLING

1. Rotate the handlebar to the full-left position; then

place the front body panel over the handlebar and

rotate and lower into position.

CD765

2. Connect the headlight connectors to the appropri-

ate headlights and the front accessory plug wires

to the accessory plug.

CD681

3. Make sure the rubber grommets and bushings are

in place; then place the front rack into position and

secure with the cap screws and lock nuts. Tighten

securely.

4. Install the footwells and foot rests. Tighten

securely.

5. Install the cap screws securing the front body

panel to the frame and rear panel.

FI470A

6. Install the shift lever spring, shift lever, and pivot

axle; then tighten the axle nut securely.

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8-13

CD779

7. Install the instrument pod and ignition switch; then

secure with two reinstallable rivets and the igni-

tion switch retaining ring.

8. Set the storage compartment box into position;

then install the storage compartment cover making

sure the mounting tabs engage the slots. Slide rear-

ward to secure and lock by engaging the lid lock.

FI468

FI467

9. Install the steering post cover and secure with the

reinstallable rivets; then install and secure the radi-

ator access panel.

FI466A

FI465A

10. Install the side panels.

Footrests

REMOVING

1. Remove the machine screws and flange nuts

securing the front and rear fenders to the footwells.

CD691A

2. Remove the screws securing the foot pegs to the

footrests; then remove the foot pegs and footwells.

3. Remove the cap screws and flange nuts securing

the footrests to the frame; then remove the foot-

rests.

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8-14

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean the footrest in parts-cleaning solvent.

2. Inspect the footrest weldments for cracks or

unusual bends.

3. Inspect all tubing for cracks or unusual bends.

INSTALLING

1. Secure the footrests to the frame with four cap screws

and two flange nuts; then tighten the 8 mm hardware

to 20 ft-lb and the 10 mm hardware to 40 ft-lb.

2. Place the footwells onto the footrests; then put the

foot pegs in position and secure with two cap

screws.

3. Install the machine screws and flange nuts secur-

ing the front and rear fenders to the footwells.

Belly Panel

REMOVING/INSTALLING

1. Remove the machine screws and shoulder washers

securing the belly panel to the underside of the

frame; then remove the belly panel.

2. Place the belly panel into position on the underside

of the frame; then install the machine screws and

shoulder washers. Tighten securely.

Exhaust System

REMOVING MUFFLER

1. Remove the two exhaust springs at the muf-

fler/exhaust pipe juncture.

CF138A

2. Slide the muffler rearward to clear the mounting

lugs and remove the muffler.

INSPECTING MUFFLER

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Inspect muffler externally for cracks, holes, and

dents.

2. Inspect the muffler internally by shaking the muf-

fler back and forth and listening for rattles or loose

debris inside the muffler.

NOTE: For additional details on cleaning the muf-

fler/spark arrester, see Section 2.

INSTALLING MUFFLER

1. Place the muffler into position engaging the

mounting lugs into the grommets; then slide the

muffler forward.

2. Install the two exhaust springs.

Rear Body Panel/Rack

REMOVING

1. Remove the cap screws and lock nuts securing the

rear rack; then remove the rear rack. Account for

the bushings.

2. Remove one shoulder screw and lock nut and three

plastic rivets (on each side) securing the rear body

panel to the footwells.

CD691A

3. Remove two machine screws securing the battery

cover and remove the cover.

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8-15

CD687A

4. Disconnect the battery (negative cable first); then

remove the battery.

5. Disconnect the taillight/brakelight; then remove

the gas tank cap and lift off the rear body panel.

Install the gas tank cap.

NOTE: If the front body panel has not been

removed, the left-side and right-side panels and

the two machine screws must be removed (see

Front Body Panel/Side Panels in this section).

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Clean all rear body panel components with warm

soap and water.

2. Inspect side panels and rear body panel for cracks

and loose rivets.

3. Inspect threaded areas of all mounting bosses for

stripping.

4. Inspect for missing decals.

INSTALLING

1. Remove the gas tank cap and set the rear body

panel in position; then install the cap and connect

the taillight/brakelight connector.

2. Place the rear rack in position with the bushings

and secure with the cap screws and lock nuts.

Tighten securely.

3. Install one shoulder screw and three plastic rivets

(on each side) to secure the front of the rear body

panel to the footwells.

CD691

4. Place the battery into the battery box; then connect

the battery (positive cable first) and secure with

the battery cover.

CD687A

5. Secure the front and rear panels with two machine

screws; then install the left and right side panels.

NOTE: If the front body panel has not been

installed, see Front Body Panel/Side Panels in this

section.

6. Place the seat into position making sure it locks

securely.

Taillight Assembly

REMOVING

1. Unplug the three-prong connector and free the tail-

light wiring harness from the frame.

2. Remove the torx-head cap screws securing the

taillight assembly to the frame. Account for any

washers.

3. Remove the taillight assembly.

INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

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8-16

1. Inspect wiring harness, three-prong connector,

lens, base, cap screws, and socket for damage.

2. Inspect all wires for corroding, pinching, and

cracking.

3. Inspect the bulb for wattage, voltage, and proper

operation.

INSTALLING

1. Place the assembly into position on the frame and

secure with torx-head cap screws and any washers.

2. Tighten the cap screws securely.

3. Route the wiring harness over the rear frame; then

connect the three-prong connector.

Seat

REMOVING/INSTALLING

1. To remove the seat, lift up on the latch release

(located at the rear of the seat). Raise the rear of

the seat and slide it rearward.

2. To lock the seat into position, slide the front of the

seat into the seat retainers and push down firmly

on the rear of seat. The seat should automatically

lock into position.

REMOVING/INSTALLING (TRV)

1. To remove the rear seat, pull the two latch handles

to the rear and rotate them to the vertical position.

CF226

2. Lift the rear of the seat up; then pull slightly to the

rear and lift the seat off the mountings.

CF227A

3. To lock the seat into position, engage the two front

mounting lugs into the mounting rack; then hold-

ing down firmly on the front of the seat, push the

seat forward until the rear tabs engage the rear

mounting latches.

CF229A

4. Lock the seat into position by pulling the two latch

handles to the rear and rotating them to the hori-

zontal position.

CF226A

NOTE: The rear seat must be removed prior to

removing the front seat.

5. To remove the front seat, pull the seat lock lever

up (located at the rear of the seat). Raise the rear

end of the seat and slide it rearward.

6. To lock the seat into position, slide the front of the

seat into the seat retainers and push down firmly

on rear of seat. The seat should automatically lock

into position.

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8-17

Troubleshooting

Problem: Handling too heavy or stiff

Condition Remedy

1. Front wheel alignment incorrect

2. Lubrication inadequate

3. Tire inflation pressure low

4. Tie rod ends seizing

5. Linkage connections seizing

1. Adjust alignment

2. Lubricate appropriate components

3. Adjust pressure

4. Replace tie rod ends

5. Repair - replace connections

Problem: Steering oscillation

Condition Remedy

1. Tires inflated unequally

2. Wheel(s) wobbly

3. Wheel hub cap screw(s) loose - missing

4. Wheel hub bearing worn - damaged

5. Tie rod ends worn - loose

6. Tires defective - incorrect

7. A-arm bushings damaged

8. Bolts - nuts (frame) loose

1. Adjust pressure

2. Replace wheel(s)

3. Tighten - replace cap screws

4. Replace bearing

5. Replace - tighten tie rod ends

6. Replace tires

7. Replace bushings

8. Tighten bolts - nuts

Problem: Steering pulling to one side

Condition Remedy

1. Tires inflated unequally

2. Front wheel alignment incorrect

3. Wheel hub bearings worn - broken

4. Frame distorted

5. Shock absorber defective

1. Adjust pressure

2. Adjust alignment

3. Replace bearings

4. Repair - replace frame

5. Replace shock absorber

Problem: Tire wear rapid or uneven

Condition Remedy

1. Wheel hub bearings worn - loose

2. Front wheel alignment incorrect

3. Tire inflation pressure incorrect

1. Replace bearings

2. Adjust alignment

3. Adjust pressure

Problem: Steering noise

Condition Remedy

1. Cap screws - nuts loose

2. Wheel hub bearings broken - damaged

3. Lubrication inadequate

1. Tighten cap screws - nuts

2. Replace bearings

3. Lubricate appropriate components

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SECTION 9 - CONTROLS/INDICATORS

TABLE OF

CONTENTS

Hand Brake Lever/Master Cylinder Assembly......... 9-2

Throttle Control ....................................................... 9-3

Front Differential Lock Cable (500).......................... 9-4

Shift Lever ............................................................... 9-4

Speedometer/Tachometer/LCD............................... 9-5

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9-2

Hand Brake Lever/

Master Cylinder

Assembly

NOTE: The master cylinder is a non-serviceable

component; it must be replaced as an assembly.

REMOVING

1. Slide a piece of flexible tubing over one of the

wheel bleeder valves and direct the other end into

a container. Remove the reservoir cover; then open

the bleeder valve. Allow the brake fluid to drain

completely.

NOTE: Compressing the brake lever several

times will quicken the draining process.

AF637D

2. Place an absorbent towel around the connection to

absorb brake fluid. Remove the banjo-fitting from

the master cylinder. Account for two crush wash-

ers and a banjo-fitting bolt.

DE059A

3. Remove the snap ring and pivot pin securing the

brake lever to the master cylinder housing; then

remove the brake lever and set aside.

4. Dislodge the brakelight switch from the master

cylinder housing by gently pressing it toward the

pivot pin hole in the housing; then lay it aside

leaving the switch and wiring harness connected.

BC205

5. Remove the clamp screws securing the brake

housing to the handlebar; then remove the assem-

bly from the handlebar.

DE058A

INSPECTING

NOTE: Whenever a part is worn excessively,

cracked, or damaged in any way, replacement is

necessary.

1. Inspect the pin securing the brake lever for wear.

2. Inspect the brake lever for elongation of the pivot

hole.

3. Inspect the reservoir for cracks and leakage.

4. Inspect the banjo-fitting for cracks and deteriora-

tion and the condition of the fittings (threaded and

compression).

5. Inspect the brakelight switch for corrosion, cracks,

missing or broken mounting tabs, or broken and

frayed wiring.

NOTE: If the brakelight switch is determined to

be not serviceable, see Section 5.

! CAUTION

Brake fluid is highly corrosive. Do not spill brake fluid

on any surface of the ATV.

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9-3

INSTALLING

1. Position the brake housing on the handlebar.

Secure with clamp screws; then tighten securely.

DE058A

2. Using two new crush washers, connect the

banjo-fitting to the master cylinder; then secure

with the banjo-fitting bolt. Tighten to 20 ft-lb.

DE059A

3. Gently press the brakelight switch into the housing

(left to right) until the mounting tabs snap into the

four locating holes; then install the brake lever,

pivot pin, and snap ring.

BC206

4. Bleed the brake system (see Section 2).

Throttle Control

REMOVING

1. Remove the two machine screws securing the

throttle control to the handlebar.

2. Slide the grommet out of the lower half of the

throttle control; then remove the cable from the

actuator arm.

AF676D

3. Remove the cap screw, lock washer, and washer

securing the actuator arm to the throttle control

lever.

AF677D

4. Remove the actuator arm and account for a bush-

ing. Note the position of the return spring for

installing purposes.

AF678D

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9-4

INSTALLING

1. Place the return spring into the throttle control;

then place the bushing and actuator arm into posi-

tion. Secure with the cap screw, lock washer, and

washer.

AF679D

2. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, place the spring

into position on the actuator arm.

AF680D

3. Place the two halves of the throttle control onto the

handlebar and secure with the two machine

screws.

ADJUSTING

To adjust throttle cable free-play, see Section 4.

Front Differential

Lock Cable

(500)

If the differential or differential lock system has been

serviced, the differential lock cable should be checked

and/or adjusted for proper free-play.

To adjust the cable, use the following procedure.

1. With the differential lock selector in the UNLOCK

position, slide the rubber boot (A) off the adjuster;

then loosen the jam nut (B). Turn the adjuster (C)

to achieve 1/4 in. of free-play measured at the end

of the differential lock lever.

CD560A

2. Select the 2WD position on the front drive selector

switch; then turn the ignition switch to the ON

position and select the LOCK position on the dif-

ferential lock selector. The front drive actuator

should operate engaging four-wheel drive.

NOTE: It may be necessary to turn the handlebar

or rock the ATV forward and backward to align the

differential lock splines and allow engagement.

3. Return the differential lock selector to the

UNLOCK position and listen for the front drive

actuator to operate.

4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

Tighten the jam nut securely; then install the boot

on the adjuster.

Shift Lever

REMOVING

1. Remove the E-clip securing the shift rod to the

shift lever.

2. Remove two cap screws, two self-tapping screws,

and three nylon ties securing the left-side splash

panel and remove the panel.

3. Remove the axle and nut securing the shift lever to

the upper shift arm; then remove the shift lever.

Account for a spring and two O-rings.

INSTALLING

1. Place the spring into position between the upper

shift arm and shift lever; then making sure the

O-rings are in place on the axle, secure the shift

lever to the arm with the existing axle and nut.

2. Place the shift rod into position on the shift lever

and secure with the existing E-clip.

3. Check shift lever adjustment (see Section 2); then

tighten jam nut(s) securely.

4. Install the left-side splash panel.

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9-5

Speedometer/

Tachometer/LCD

REPLACING

To replace the speedometer, use the following proce-

dure.

1. Remove the two reinstallable rivets securing the

instrument pod; then remove the ignition switch

retaining ring.

2. Remove the two nuts securing the mounting studs;

then remove the speedometer and disconnect the

multi-pin connector.

3. Mount the speedometer and secure with the two

nuts; then connect the multi-pin connector.

4. Install the instrument pod and secure with the rein-

stallable rivets.

5. Secure the ignition switch with the retaining ring.

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Arctic_cat_2009_400_TRV_500_550_700_1000_thundercat_service_manual Arctic Cat 2009 400 TRV 500 550 700 1000 Thundercat Service Manual

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