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User Manual: PORTATONE PSR-S500

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HOMEOWNER’S

Tip GUIDE

To get the most miles out of your car

and prevent breakdowns, you probably

take it in for scheduled maintenance, oil

changes, and tune-ups.

To get the most miles out of your home’s

expensive systems and appliances,

they also need scheduled maintenance

and tune-ups.

But what service will they need, how

often, and how much work can you do

yourself? It’s not like you can drive your

home to the nearest service station.

If only someone would write an

“Owner’s Manual” for your home like

the one that came with your car.

Oh, wait… we did!

Our Homeowner’s Tip Guide helps you

with home-related tasks including:

• Developing and scheduling an annual

maintenance plan for your home’s

systems and appliances.

• Maintenance information that helps

you care for your equipment and

avoid costly repairs.

• Troubleshooting and resolving certain

malfunctions on your own, saving

you the time and expense of hiring a

professional (and often for less than

a home warranty trade call fee!).

Old Republic Home Protection

takes pride in being

Table of Contents

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE ..........................1

Monthly ............................................................................ 1

Annually or Semi-Annually • Spring ................................. 1

Annually or Semi-Annually • Summer ............................. 1

Annually or Semi-Annually • Fall ..................................... 2

Annually or Semi-Annually • Winter ................................. 2

Monthly Maintenance Schedule Checklist ....................... 2

EMERGENCIES ......................................................3

Overview.......................................................................... 3

Plumbing Emergencies.................................................... 3

Electrical Emergencies .................................................... 3

Gas Leaks ....................................................................... 4

Fire Precautions .............................................................. 4

EXTERIOR MAINTENANCE ...........................5

Roof Maintenance ........................................................... 5

Home Exterior.................................................................. 6

Exterior Caulking ............................................................. 7

Foundations ..................................................................... 7

Garage Doors .................................................................. 8

Driveways, Walkways and Steps ..................................... 8

Wood Decks .................................................................... 8

SYSTEM/APPLIANCE

MALFUNCTION TROUBLESHOOTING ...9

Plumbing Fixture/Faucets and Pipes ............................... 9

Toilets .............................................................................. 9

Septic Tank ...................................................................... 9

Water Heater ................................................................... 9

Garbage Disposal .......................................................... 10

Dishwasher .....................................................................11

Electric Cooktop/Range/Oven ....................................... 12

Gas Cooktop/Range/Oven ............................................ 12

Microwave Oven ............................................................ 13

Trash Compactor ........................................................... 13

Refrigerator and Freezer ............................................... 14

Clothes Washer ............................................................. 15

Clothes Dryer................................................................. 15

Heating System ............................................................. 16

Air Conditioning System ................................................ 16

Electrical System ........................................................... 17

Pool/Spa Equipment ...................................................... 17

Maintenance Schedule

MONTHLY

Safety

• Make sure your re extinguishers are fully charged

• Test your:

◦Garage door opener(s)

◦GFCI receptacles and breakers

◦Smoke detectors to ensure you have fresh batteries

◦Carbon monoxide detectors to ensure you have

fresh batteries

Plumbing

• Check plumbing xtures and “water-using” appliances

for leaks

• Grind a cut-up lemon and then 2-3 cups of ice in the

garbage disposal (the lemon keeps your disposal fresh

and odor-free while the ice helps keep the blades

sharp)

• Clean pop-up sink and tub strainers

• Pour a cup of baking soda followed by a cup of white

vinegar and a pot of boiling water down drains to keep

them running freely

• Pour water down seldom-used drains

• Drain a few gallons of water from the valve at the base

of the water heater to remove sediment and extend the

life of the water heater

• Clean faucet aerators and shower heads with a soft

brush to remove mineral build-up

Appliances

• Clean refrigerator drain pan

• Clean dishwasher food lters and check that openings

in spray arms are clear; check dishwasher for leaks

• Clean kitchen exhaust fan lters

Heating and Cooling

• Check furnace or cooling lter, replace if necessary

ANNUALLY OR SEMI-ANNUALLY • Spring

Plumbing

• Inspect septic eld and tank area for ooding or odor

• Have septic tank inspected and pumped as needed

• Inspect water heater temperature pressure relief valve

for signs of leaks or discharge

• Flush the water heater

Heating and Cooling

• Clean around air conditioner compressor

• Have heat pump or air conditioning system cleaned

and tuned-up before cooling season begins

• Have evaporator coil inspected and cleaned, if necessary

• Have chimney(s) cleaned and inspected

Electrical

• Replace the batteries in smoke detectors twice a

year. An easy way to remember this is to change the

batteries when the time changes. It’s also a good

idea to vacuum out the smoke detectors when you

change the batteries so they stay clean and operate

at peak efciency

Exterior

• Clean and inspect gutters and downspouts after trees

have seeded; repair as needed

• Hose off house exterior; scrub off any mildew

• Clean gaps between deck boards, under decks and

porches and treat for fungus and mildew as needed

• Check paint, siding, or masonry for deterioration.

Deteriorated paint can lead to widespread rot. One top-

coat of paint should last four or ve years, but two coats

can last twice that long

• Inspect weather stripping around windows and doors;

replace as needed

• Inspect window screens; repair as needed

• Clean out basement window wells

• Clean sliding door tracks and lubricate with white lithi-

um compound

• Inspect basement/crawl space and attic for signs of

pests such as termites, carpenter ants, wasps, and

hornets

ANNUALLY OR SEMI-ANNUALLY • Summer

Plumbing

• Check the apper on your toilets at least once a year.

If it is an older one, you may want to replace it since it

could allow water through, causing your toilet to “run”

continuously

Heating and Cooling

• Examine windows; re-glaze as needed

• Ensure all east, west and south facing windows are

shaded to decrease cooling costs

Garage Door

• Clean and lubricate garage door tracks, rollers, springs

and hinges; tighten screws

• Inspect paint and sealant on exterior and garage door,

particularly along the bottom edge

Interior

• Inspect walls and ceiling for cracks, sags, bowing

or leaning

• Clean and seal tile grout

ANNUALLY OR SEMI-ANNUALLY • Fall

Plumbing

• Close and drain hose bibs, drain and store hoses

• Check septic eld and tank area for ooding or odor

• Inspect water heater temperature pressure relief valve

for signs of leaks or discharge

Heating and Cooling

• Clean around air conditioner condenser, then cover to

protect during the fall/winter months

• Have replace and ues inspected and cleaned, repair

as needed

• Schedule heating system tune-up and cleaning

• Clean ceiling fan blades

Exterior

• Check paint, siding, or masonry for deterioration

• Trim foundation plantings to leave a foot of clear space

between plantings and house

• Clean gutters and downspouts; repair as needed

• Check roof for leaks

• Check exterior house siding

• Trim any tree branches near or touching roof or gutters

• Check all exterior caulk; repair as needed

• Insulate for winter – on a windy day, feel around the

edges of doors, windows and replaces for any air

leaks. Look for dust piles as clues to leaks. Caulk and

repair weather stripping as needed

• Rake debris away from side of house and other

structures

• Clear storm window weep holes of debris

• Clean under decks and porches as well as the space

between the deck boards

• Clean out basement window wells

ANNUALLY OR SEMI-ANNUALLY • Winter

Plumbing

• Clean and seal grout

• Exercise (turn off and on) plumbing shutoff valves and

inspect for leaks

• Inspect water heater temperature pressure relief valve

for signs of leaks or discharge

Electrical

• Ensure your supply of ashlights has fresh batteries in

case of a winter storm power outage

Exterior

• Inspect roof after large winter storms

• Inspect gutters and downspouts for leaks during a

rainstorm

• Keep gutters free from debris and ice

• On a windy day, feel around the edges of doors, win-

dows and replaces for any air leaks. Look for dust

piles as clues to leaks. Caulk and repair weather

stripping as needed

Monthly Maintenance Schedule Checklist

Jan. Feb. March April May June July August Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.

Safety

Check

Plumbing

Check

Appliances

Check

Heating &

Cooling

Check

Emergencies

OVERVIEW

Despite your best precautions, emergencies can still occur.

You can prevent an emergency from becoming a catastro-

phe by learning what to do. This section discusses how to

react to:

• Plumbing emergencies

• Electrical emergencies

• Gas leaks

• A re

Read this section and discuss it with all members of your

household, reviewing annually, so that everyone is prepared

for an emergency. Make copies of these pages for your

babysitters so they will be prepared if an emergency strikes

while you are away.

The rst step during an electrical problem, water leak or gas

leak is to shut off the ow of electricity, water or gas to your

home. Every member of your household should know how

to nd these shutoff valves and switches.

You should keep a basic emergency kit that includes:

• A battery powered transistor radio

• A ashlight

• Extra batteries

• Candles and matches

• A rst-aid kit

• A rst-aid manual

These supplies will be welcomed if a natural disaster occurs.

In addition, the rst-aid kit and rst-aid manual are good to

have on hand for household use.

PLUMBING EMERGENCIES

Main Water Shutoff Valve

Main water shutoff valves are frequently located near water

meters. Your water meter is likely outside near the street.

Main water shutoff valves can also be located inside your

home beneath a oor access panel or in a basement. Floor

access panels are commonly found in closet oors. Look for

a large valve in the middle of a pipe.

ELECTRICAL EMERGENCIES

Electrical emergencies such as an appliance malfunction, a

power failure in your home or a neighborhood power outage

can occur at any time.

You should know how to turn off the electrical power to your

home and turn off and reset individual circuit breakers.

Main Disconnect

The main electrical disconnect should be located in or near

the circuit panel box. The circuit panel box is usually in the

garage, utility room, or utility closet.

Turn off the electrical power to your house by shutting off the

main disconnect. The main disconnect is one or more main

fuses or circuit breakers located on the circuit panel.

If the circuit panel is located in a laundry room or some

other place where there could be water on the oor, use

rubber gloves when shutting off the main disconnect. Keep

a pair of rubber gloves near the circuit panel at all times for

this purpose.

Be sure everyone in your household knows where the circuit

breaker panel is located and can shut off the power.

Power Outage

If the power goes out suddenly in your home, determine

whether the outage affects just your home or the entire

neighborhood. If it is a neighborhood outage, notify your

electric utility company.

If the electrical outage affects your home only, check for and

reset tripped circuit breakers. If a breaker immediately trips

again, call a professional electrician to test your electrical

system.

Turn off or disconnect all motor-driven and electronic ap-

pliances to avoid possible damage from either inadequate

power or a sudden electrical surge when power is restored.

The furnace blower motor can be turned off by turning off

the circuit breaker for the furnace.

Motors for dishwashers, clothes washers, clothes dryers,

garbage disposals, range fans, sump pumps, refrigerators

and other appliances can be disconnected by turning off or

unplugging the appliance. Computers, televisions, video re-

corders, stereos and other electronic equipment should also

be turned off. Turn on a radio and a lamp to alert you when

service is restored.

After power has been restored, it should be safe to turn on

all appliances. You can slow food spoilage by not opening

refrigerators or freezers during the outage unless absolutely

necessary. Food in a tightly packed freezer will stay frozen

for up to 48 hours if the door has been kept closed. Food in

a partially lled freezer may keep for 24 hours. If you are in

doubt about the safety of frozen food after a power outage,

throw it out.

Sparking Appliance

Do not touch a smoking or sparking appliance. Instead,

cut off power to the appliance by unplugging the appli-

ance, turning off the wall switch controlling the appliance

or turning off the circuit breaker for the appliance. Allow

the appliance to cool, then take it to a repair shop or

call a professional service representative to repair the

appliance.

If the appliance catches re, get everyone out of the house,

meet at your designated area and call the re department

from a neighbor’s home.

Do not use water on an electrical re, it can be fatal. If you

discover an electrical re early, use a multipurpose re ex-

tinguisher on the ames.

If an appliance’s electrical plug smokes or sparks, unplug

the appliance by pulling its cord. Do not touch the plug itself.

After the plug cools, inspect the plug and cord for damage.

If they are damaged, replace the plug and cord or have them

replaced by a professional service representative. Reset

any tripped circuit breakers.

If the plug and cord appear to be OK and there are no

tripped circuit breakers, the electrical outlet may be at fault.

Test the outlet by plugging another appliance you know

works properly into the receptacle. If that plug sparks too,

replace the outlet or have it replaced by a professional

electrician. If the new appliance does not cause sparks,

then the original appliance is probably faulty and should be

repaired or replaced.

GAS LEAKS

Your home may be serviced with natural or bottled gas. Gas

is a safe, clean, economical energy source for appliances

such as furnaces, boilers, water heaters, dryers, cooktops,

replaces and barbecues. Although gas appliances are

wonderful conveniences, gas must be treated with respect.

If you smell gas inside or outside your home, hear gas escap-

ing from a broken line or see a broken gas line, you should:

• Get everyone out of and away from your home immediately

• Call your local gas company or your re department

from a neighbor’s house

• Do not light a match, turn a light on or off, use a tele-

phone (portable, cellular or regular) or operate any

electrical switch or electronic device – ames or electric

sparks can ignite the leaking gas

• Leave as many windows and doors open as possible –

the gas will rise and dissipate harmlessly outside

If the gas leak is inside your home, you can turn off your gas

supply at the gas shutoff valve after everyone is out of the

house. If you prefer, you can have your utility company turn

off the gas.

The gas shutoff valve should be located on the pipe leading

into the gas meter. Turn the valve a quarter-turn in either

direction with an adjustable-end or “crescent” wrench. The

gas is off when the valve is perpendicular to the pipe.

If the gas leak is outside your home, keep away from the

leak area and away from your house.

Do not attempt to shut off the gas supply. Your utility compa-

ny will turn off the gas.

Once your gas is off, wait for the local gas company to re-

store your service.

FIRE PRECAUTIONS

Precautions and plans made today can prevent a re-relat-

ed tragedy tomorrow.

Smoke detectors are your rst line of defense if a re breaks

out at night. Test your detectors on the rst day of each

month. Replace the batteries in the spring and fall when you

change your clocks.

“Plan of Escape”

The rst step during a re is to get everyone out of the

house. Planning your escape routes now can prevent need-

less loss of life during a re.

1. With your family, map out escape routes from each

room in your home. Pay particular attention to escape

routes from bedrooms.

2. Agree on a central area outside your house to meet

after evacuation so that everyone can be accounted

for. This may be a neighbor’s front door or a neighbor-

hood landmark. The meeting place should be a place

that children or injured people can reach without undue

difculty and yet still be safe from danger.

3. Have safety ladders near windows when ladders are

necessary.

4. Keep stairs, doorways and hallways free from obstruc-

tions. In dense smoke, it may be difcult to see items

blocking an escape route.

In the Event of a Small ”Contained“ Fire

If you discover a small re that is still contained to its source,

you can do the following:

• Cooking pan re

◦ Cover a small oil or grease re in a cooking pan with

a lid to smother the ames and remove the pan from

heat

◦ Do not use water on an oil or grease re. Water will

spread the ames

◦Turn off the kitchen exhaust fan. The fan can suck

re through the fan and ignite the outside of your

home

• Oven re

◦ Turn off the oven and allow the re to burn itself out

◦ Do not open the oven door - fresh air will feed the re

and cause it to continue to burn

• Electrical re

◦If you discover an electrical re early, use a multi-

purpose re extinguisher

◦ Do not use water on an electrical re. Water and

electricity can be fatal

Fire Extinguisher

Cooking is a leading cause of re. If a re breaks out in the

kitchen, you will want an extinguisher close at hand. If there

is a re in another part of the home, you will know that an

extinguisher can be found in the kitchen.

Read the operating instructions on the side of the extin-

guisher now so that you will know how to use it if needed.

Finally, have the extinguisher serviced at the time recom-

mended by the manufacturer. The manufacturer’s service

recommendations should be printed on the side of your

re extinguisher.

Exterior Maintenance

ROOF MAINTENANCE

It’s easy to ignore your roof unless it begins to leak, de-

manding immediate attention. If you inspect your roof

periodically, you can correct minor problems before they

cause major damage.

Do not go up on your roof unless you:

• Feel comfortable working from heights

• Know how to safely use an extension ladder

• Have the necessary tools and equipment

If you have a tile or slate roof, do not go on your roof for any

reason. These types of roof shingles can be easily broken

from your body weight.

Many roong materials come with manufacturer’s warran-

ties. However, in order to make a claim on a warranty, you

may need to know:

• The manufacturer’s name

• The place purchased

• The installer’s name

Roof Inspection

You should inspect your roof:

• Each fall before the winter weather begins

• After heavy wind or snow storms – to inspect

for damage

• In the spring to look for winter damage

If you discover any problems, call a roong professional.

Inspecting from the Inside:

1. Begin your roof inspection in the attic. Examine the

main roof ridge, rafters and sheathing for moisture.

Look for:

a. Water stains

b. Dark-colored areas of wet wood

c. Soft spots that may indicate dry rot

2. Use a strong ashlight to inspect visually, then use a

knife or thin screwdriver to probe for dry rot.

3. Mark any problem areas with chalk so you can nd the

areas later.

4. If it is necessary to remove berglass insulation to

examine the sheathing wear loose clothing, gloves,

goggles and a respirator for protection.

5. Turn off the lights and look for light coming through the

roof. This is a sign of holes, cracks or other problems.

Small shafts of light coming in at an angle indicate

cracks that may swell shut when shingles are wet.

6. If you see any holes above you, drive nails or poke

wire through the holes so they will be visible from the

roof’s surface.

Inspecting from the Outside (all roof types)

1. Inspect the ashing in the following areas:

a. Roof valleys

b. Roof and plumbing vents

c. Around chimneys

d. Along eaves

e. Anywhere water can seep through open joints into

the roof sheathing

2. Look for any ashing that has buckled or pulled away

from the joints it is supposed to protect.

3. Look for holes and rust spots along the ashing surface.

a. Small holes and rust patches can be patched or

sealed

b. Replace the ashing if you nd large holes or exten-

sive corrosion

4. Examine the ashing seams for dried or cracked roof-

ing cement. Re-seal as necessary.

5. Look for loose nails and exposed nail heads. They should

be re-nailed and covered with caulk or roong cement.

6. Check gutters for any loose spikes or support straps

and repair as necessary.

7. Gutters should slope gently towards the downspouts.

Reset gutters that sag or slope improperly.

8. Inspect gutter seams, corner joints and downspout

joints for proper t. These joints should be repaired or

sealed with caulk if they allow water to leak.

9. Inspect downspouts. Check for:

a. Disconnected downspouts

b. Corrosion

c. Clogged sections

d. Improper connections

e. Loose straps

f. Missing sections

10. Make sure the downspouts direct water away from

your home.

Inspecting from the Outside (sloped or pitched roofs)

1. Step away from your home until you are able to see all

exposed sections of your roof.

2. Use binoculars to visually inspect all portions of your

roof. Binoculars allow you to get a close-up view of

your roof without climbing up and moving around on a

sloped surface.

3. Check the roof structure rst by looking at the lines of

the ridge and rafters.

a. The ridge line should be perfectly horizontal.

b. Inspect the line of the rafters by looking along the plane

of each roof section. The plane should be straight.

c. If either the ridge line or the plane of a roof section

sags, call a professional contractor. You may have a

structural problem.

4. Inspect the roof’s surface. Look for the signs of wear

and damage.

Inspecting from the Outside (at roofs)

1. Flat roofs are not visible from the ground. If you have a

at roof, you must inspect it from the roof itself.

a. If your roof is higher than a single story, look for a

way to access the roof from a door, window, access

panel or other interior access

b. If the roof is higher than one story and does not have

interior access, then it is best to have the roof in-

spected by a professional roong contractor

2. Look for puddles of water. Although some people used

to believe standing water on a at roof would help keep

the home cool during the summer, the disadvantages

far outweigh any cooling benets.

a. Insects, plants and fungi can breed and grow in the

water

b. Roots from growing plants can puncture your roof-

ing material

c. During the winter, freezing water can cause serious

roof damage

d. If you see standing water or signs of past water pud-

dles, discuss this matter with a professional roong

contractor

3. Your at roof should drain along the roof edges and

into downspouts or through drains located in the roof

itself.

4. If your roof has one or more interior drains, inspect

the drains to make sure they ow freely and are not

clogged with debris.

Roof Flashing

Flashing is the sheet metal or other durable material

that protects roof joints and other protrusions from water

penetration.

You will nd ashing in the following locations:

• Roof valleys

• Roof and plumbing vents

• Around chimneys

• Along eaves

• Anywhere else water can seep through open joints into

the roof sheathing

The ashing’s edges are sometimes sealed with caulk or

roof cement. Flashing is key to keeping your roof watertight.

You can avoid repair to and replacement of your entire roof

when you stop a leak by re-caulking a dried out ashing

seam.

Gutters and Downspouts

Gutters and downspouts collect water from the roof and

carry it away from the house. This prevents:

• Topsoil erosion around concrete footings

• Basement ooding

• Siding and woodwork decay

• Paint damage

• Wall damage

• Serious foundation problems

Gutters and downspouts that leak or that are clogged with

debris cannot perform their vital task. Gutters collect leaves,

sticks, seed pods, mineral granules from roong products

and other debris. They should be cleaned:

• In the fall after most of the leaves have fallen

• In the spring after the trees have bloomed

If you have low gutters and know how to safely use exten-

sion ladders, you may feel comfortable performing this task

yourself. If you have a multi-story home, don’t like working

from heights or don’t like handling extension ladders, you

may want to hire a contractor to clean your gutters.

HOME EXTERIOR

Your home is protected from the sun, wind, and rain by an

exterior skin of wooden, masonry or manufactured siding.

This siding should last the life of your home if properly

maintained. However, even the most durable sidings can

fail if the homeowner does not follow through with a regu-

lar maintenance program.

Exterior Cleaning

Cleaning your home’s exterior surfaces once or twice a

year will improve its appearance and will help preserve your

paint, stain or siding nish.

Wash from the bottom up with a solution of soap and warm

water. Washing from the bottom up prevents streaking. Pay

particular attention to the areas around door handles and

window catches where dirt and grease will be heaviest.

Rinse with fresh water from top to bottom to prevent runs of

dirty liquid on a newly cleaned surface. You can use a pres-

sure washer or a garden hose and scrub brush for this job.

If you nd mildew on your siding, apply a household bleach

solution directly to any affected areas and rinse with a

garden hose.

Siding Inspection

Paint

1. Protect your siding by inspecting for paint problems

twice a year and repainting every two to ve years, or

as necessary.

2. Peeling or blistering paint is usually caused by warm,

moist vapor from the house owing through the walls,

reaching the cold sheathing and condensing.

a. Just a few drops of water between the siding and the

lm of paint will cause paint to blister and peel

b. It may be necessary to install vents in the siding to

remedy the moisture problem

c. The defective areas should be properly prepared

and repainted

3. If you observe other paint problems, such as worn,

aking, wrinkling or “alligatoring” paint, properly pre-

pare and repaint the affected area.

Ground Clearance

1. Untreated wood must not be in contact with the ground.

Moisture from the soil can cause decay as well as allow

insects to gain entry to your siding.

2. Examine along the base of your home to make sure

you have at least 6-8 inches of clearance between the

ground and any wood siding or wood trim.

3. If necessary, re-grade your soil away from any wood.

Stain

1. Stain protects wood siding from moisture and insects.

2. Re-stain your siding every ve to seven years, or as

necessary, to restore color and preserve your siding.

Dry Rot and Termite Damage

Dry rot is a fungus that causes wood to crumble and ter-

mites destroy wood by chewing its interior.

1. Probe the edges of the wood siding with a knife or thin

screw driver and look for soft, spongy spots. Pay par-

ticular attention to any part of the siding that was close

to or in contact with the ground.

2. Check for visible evidence of termites. Look for their

translucent one-half-inch-long wings or the mud tubes

they sometimes build. If you nd evidence of dry rot

or termites, consult a licensed termite or pest control

professional.

Holes and Split, Warped or Loose Siding

Simple surface problems such as holes in the wood, split or

cracked boards, warped or buckled boards and loose siding

should be repaired as soon as they appear.

Water will work its way through these defects into the in-

terior wall where rotting can take place undetected. Find

the source by checking for deteriorating roong, leaking

gutters or downspouts and poor drainage.

EXTERIOR CAULKING

Caulking is used to seal joints, gaps and seams in exterior

walls. Without caulking, cool air, water and insects could

enter your home through these openings. Typically, your

home should be re-caulked every ve years or less.

Where to Inspect

Roof:

• Where one ashing meets another ashing

• Where the ashing and a roof or dormer surface meet

• Where a chimney, ue, plumbing or electrical pipe, attic

fan or skylight protrudes through the roof surface

Exterior Walls:

• Where siding and trim meet at corners

• Where siding meets the foundation, patio, deck or any

other part of your home

• Around window and door frames

• Between poorly tted pieces of siding

• Where pipes, framing members and other materials

protrude through siding

FOUNDATIONS

Your foundation supports your home and keeps it from

shifting. You should inspect your foundation twice a year

to ensure it lasts for the life of your home.

The type of foundation you have depends on your home’s

design and your particular soil conditions.

In areas where flooding or weak soil is a problem,

houses are often built on piers or pilings. In some areas,

pressure- treated wood foundations have become popu-

lar. The most common foundation, however, is a concrete

or masonry perimeter enclosing a crawl space, full cellar

or basement.

Foundation Inspection

Cracks:

1. Begin your inspection by looking for cracks along the

foundation’s outside wall.

a. Normal curing of concrete and mortar joints can

cause cracks. Most cracks are normal and are

structurally insignicant.

b. Cracks wider than 1/16 inch should be investigated,

possibly with the assistance of an engineer or qual-

ied inspector, to determine whether the cracks are

a cause for concern.

2. Check the slope of the ground around your

foundation.

a. The ground should slope away from your home

so rain water will flow away from, not toward the

foundation.

b. Back filled soil along the house can settle over

time. This can create a depression that will

collect water near the foundation. Correct any

depressions by raising the grade with topsoil

(not sand or gravel) so that the ground slopes

2 inches per horizontal foot for 8 to 10 feet from

the foundation.

3. Settling along the foundation can also cause con-

crete patios and walkways to break and direct water

towards your home. A contractor can add a new layer

of concrete to reverse the slope.

Moisture

You should watch for:

• Condensation

• Basement leaks

• Crawl space moisture

These problems can cause wood structural members to

decay.

Condensation

1. Condensation is caused when warm, moist air

comes in contact with a colder surface such as a

window, exposed pipe or bare concrete basement

wall. It can look as if the window, pipe or wall is

leaking. Condensation can be worse in new homes

as water from concrete walls evaporates as part of

the normal curing process.

2. Proper ventilation can control condensation.

Crawl Space Moisture

Soil under a crawl space can cause beams, oor joists,

sub-oors and even roof sheathing to decay. Inspect all

crawl spaces with a ashlight.

1. If it is necessary to go into the crawl space to view

the entire area, wear a face mask. You can stir up

insecticides and other chemicals that settled on the

ground.

2. Look for a moisture barrier.

a. All bare soil should be covered with a moisture

barrier of 6-mil polyethylene plastic

b. The plastic should go up the foundation walls to

a point higher than the outside grade line and

be weighted down with bricks, gravel or other

non-organic material

3. Look for standing water. There should never be stand-

ing water under your home. If there is, consult a profes-

sional contractor for drainage options

4. Inspect the foundation vents.

a. Foundation vents help control moisture in the crawl

space

b. Make sure the vents are open and not blocked by

soil, leaves or other debris

c. If the crawl space smells musty, you need more

ventilation

GARAGE DOORS

You can prevent many garage door problems with regular

maintenance:

1. Periodically clean the tracks, hinges and rollers.

2. Lubricate the tracks, hinges and rollers with penetrat-

ing oil or silicone spray.

3. Lubricate the locks with graphite powder.

4. Tighten the garage door screws every 12 months. They

fasten the hardware to the door and will loosen over

time as the door settles or as wood doors shrink.

5. Inspect the springs regularly. Replace any springs that

develop bulges or are unevenly spaced.

6. Inspect the tracks for proper alignment, crimps in the

track and other damage. If the door binds or drags, it is

likely the tracks are poorly aligned or need lubrication.

7. Keep wood doors sealed and painted, particularly

along the bottom edge, to prevent swelling and mois-

ture damage.

Garage Door Opener

An improperly adjusted garage door opener can cause a

serious accident. Your openers should have an automatic

return switch so that the doors will reverse automatically if

they meet an obstacle.

1. Test your garage door openers by blocking the door

with your hands while the door is closing. If the door

does not reverse when it encounters your hands,

adjust the automatic reverse adjustment screws.

2. Height adjustment nuts control how far the doors open

and close. If your doors do not open or close properly,

you can reset the adjustment nuts.

3. If the drive unit works but the door won’t open, the

belt connecting the pulley with the motor may need

adjusting.

DRIVEWAYS,

WALKWAYS AND STEPS

Concrete driveways, walkways and steps usually have ex-

pansion joints to minimize cracking. However, cracking is a

natural characteristic of concrete that cannot be eliminated

and should not create serious problems.

Snow and ice can damage concrete driveways, walk-

ways and steps. Remove snow and ice promptly to pro-

tect your concrete. If you cannot remove a thin layer of

ice, sprinkle sand or cat litter on the ice for traction. Do

not use salt or chemicals to melt the ice. Salt and chemicals

can damage your concrete and kill nearby grass, trees

and shrubs.

WOOD DECKS

Cedar or redwood boards, treated wood and stained or

painted wood are common materials for wood decks.

Cedar and redwood are more expensive than other deck-

ing materials but do not need to be painted or pressure

treated. As the cedar weathers, it will turn a distinctive

driftwood gray color. Redwood darkens to a natural color

as it weathers.

Your wood decking will expand and contract with changes

in the weather. This will cause nails to pull away from the

boards and could cause some boards to warp.

1. Reset any pulled nails and re-nail any warped boards

with a nishing hammer.

2. Do not use a regular hammer. The head of a regular

carpenter’s hammer will dent the wood around the

nail.

There should be gaps between the deck boards so that

water can drain from the deck. These gaps, however, can

collect dirt, leaves and other debris. The obstructions can

then soak up water and cause the wood to decay. Places

where deck boards rest on joists underneath the deck are

particularly prone to collecting obstructions. Your deck will

last longer if you clean between the deck boards with a

pressure washer once a year.

The aerator on the faucet is broken or has a

deteriorating finish.

The showerhead and faucet are not allowing

the water to flow smoothly and quickly.

A new kitchen faucet drips after shut off.

The sink drain takes longer than usual to drain.

Age and mineral deposits have caused damage.

Mineral deposits on the fixtures.

There is air left in the lines from installation.

There may be a build-up of soap scum, hair and

grease in the pipes.

Replace the aerator.

Put one cup of vinegar in a plastic bag and place it over the showerhead or

fixture. Secure it in place with a twist tie and let stand overnight. In the

morning, remove the bag and the mineral deposits should come off by

wiping with a damp cloth.

If there is NOT a handspray, turn the handle off and on approximately 15-20

times. If there IS a handspray, hold it in the sink and turn the handle off and

on very quickly 15-20 times. This will remove the air left in your supply lines.

Try using drain maintenance products that can be purchased at your local

hardware store. These products are designed to remove the usual buildup

of soap scum, grease and hair.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Water is “running” in the toilet.

The toilet leaks water onto the floor.

The toilet may be leaking internally.

There is a leak in the supply line.

There is a leak between the tank and bowl.

Replace the flapper.

Check the supply line for leaks. Also, ensure the supply tube nut (coupling

nut) is tightened.

Replace the gasket between the tank and bowl.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

The waste lines are backing up throughout the house.

The bathroom sink is clogged.

The septic tank is full.

There is a stoppage in the bathroom branch line.

After lifting the lid to confirm the tank is full, have the tank pumped.

Use either a plunger or snake to clear the stoppage.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Plumbing Fixtures/Faucets and Pipes

System/Appliance Malfunction Troubleshooting

• Flush only toilet paper down a toilet and avoid all other paper products.

Toilets

Water Heater

Helpful Hint!

Septic Tank

Helpful Hints!

Helpful Hint!

• Septic tanks should be inspected and pumped every three to five years to help prevent costly replacement

of the leach field.

• Don’t deposit coffee grounds, cooking fats, disposable diapers, facial tissues, cigarette butts and other

non-decomposable materials into the house sewer. These materials will plug the system.

• Use toilet tissue that breaks up easily when wet. Put a handful of toilet tissue in a jar half full of water.

Shake the jar and if the tissue breaks up easily, the product is suitable for the septic tank.

• Using too much soap or detergent when doing laundry can cause problems with the septic system. If there

are lots of suds in your laundry tub when the washer discharges, cut back on the amount of detergent for

the next similar load.

There is no hot water. The pilot light (gas unit) is not lit.

The pilot light (gas unit) will not stay lit.

The gas is not coming out (gas unit).

There is a malfunction in the thermocouple.

Relight the pilot. (Call the gas company if assistance is needed.)

Turn the gas valves on and be sure the thermocouple is near the pilot flame

and connected to the gas control. (Call the gas company if assistance is

needed.)

Check the gas shutoff valve for the water heater and the house to make sure

they are open. (Call the gas company if assistance is needed.)

Replace the thermocouple.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

• Flush out the water heater at least once a year to keep sediment from accumulating at the bottom of the tank.

Check owner’s manual for recommended frequency. Be sure to turn off the power to the unit first.

There is no hot water.

There is not enough hot water.

The water is too hot.

The water heater is leaking.

The water heater makes unusual noises.

Sediment or rust colored water is coming though

the faucets.

The water heater has no power (electric unit).

The safety thermostat has stopped working.

There is a malfunction in the heating thermostats.

There is a malfunction in the heating elements.

Rust, calcium or other sediment has accumulated in

the tank or pipes.

The thermostat is set incorrectly.

Heat is getting lost in the pipes.

The hot water faucets leak.

There is a malfunction in the heating elements.

Rust, calcium or other sediment has accumulated in

the tank.

The orifices on the burner are clogged.

The thermostat is set incorrectly.

There is not enough insulation around the thermostats.

There is a malfunction in the heating thermostats.

There is a malfunction in the heating elements.

The exhaust vent is clogged (gas unit).

There is a leak in the drain cock, element seal or

element gasket.

The safety valve is leaking.

Rust, calcium or other sediment has accumulated in

the tank.

Scale has formed on the heating elements (electric

units only).

Rust or sediment has accumulated in the tank.

Scale has formed on the heating elements (electric

units only).

Ensure the unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse and reset.

Push the rest button (electric units only) and be sure the thermostat and

heating elements are working.

Test the thermostats and replace if necessary.

Test the elements and replace if necessary.

Flush the tank and pipes to remove the sediment build-up.

Adjust the thermostat to a higher setting.

Insulate the hot water pipes.

Repair or replace the leaky faucets.

Test the elements and replace if necessary.

Turn off the power. Flush the tank to remove the sediment.

Turn off the heater, wait for it to cool and clean out the clogged orifices.

Turn down the thermostat.

Tighten the insulation around the thermostats.

Test the thermostats and replace if necessary.

Test the elements and replace if necessary.

Clean the vent to remove the clog.

Tighten or replace the seal or gasket.

If the water is too hot, steam will be released through the safety valve.

Turn down the thermostat. If the safety valve is defective, replace it.

Flush the tank to remove the sediment.

Remove the heating elements. Soak them in vinegar and gently remove

the scale.

Flush the tank to remove the sediment.

Remove the heating elements. Soak them in vinegar and gently remove

the scale.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Garbage Disposal

• Always run cool water during use and for at least two minutes after you finish to help prevent stoppages.

• Avoid putting potato and carrot peels or stringy vegetables down the disposal.

• Once a week, grind several lemon or orange rinds in your disposal to help eliminate odors.

• Never put your hand in the disposal to clear a jam. Turn off power to the unit and use tongs or pliers to clear the debris.

• Always use cold water in your disposal to avoid liquefying the grease.

The motor will not work or turn on.

The breaker trips when the disposal is turned on.

The motor makes a humming noise.

The disposal is making an unusual amount of noise.

The disposal is leaking.

The disposal takes too long to grind all the food.

There is no power to the unit.

The on/off switch may be defective.

The overload protector (reset) switch on the unit has

tripped.

Too many appliances are plugged into the circuit.

The impeller/blades are jammed.

There is a metallic or other hard object in the unit.

The mounting screws are loose.

The sink/drain connection is loose.

There is not enough water.

There is improper waste in the disposal.

Ensure the unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse and reset.

Check the stopper switch (batch feed model) or the wall switch

(continuous feed model). Repair or replace as needed.

Ensure the unit is not jammed and push the reset button (usually located

on the bottom of the unit) to restore power to the unit.

The disposal needs its own 15-amp circuit outlet.

After turning off the power to the disposal, use tongs or pliers to clear all

items that are jamming the blades. Insert an allen wrench that fits into the

bottom of the unit and turn the allen wrench back and forth several times

until the motor is free. Push the reset button when you are done to restore

power to the unit.

Inspect the unit and remove the object with tongs or pliers.

Tighten the mounting screws at the top of the disposal, where it mounts to

the bottom of the sink flange.

Secure the flanges surrounding the gasket (between the disposal and the

sink) or replace the rubber gasket if necessary.

When using the disposal, run more cold water.

After turning off the power to the disposal, use tongs or pliers to clear all

items that are not acceptable for a disposal (for example, potato and carrot

peels or stringy vegetables).

Water Heater (con’t)

Helpful Hints!

Garbage Disposal (con’t)

The disposal runs slowly or drains slowly.

The disposal has a foul odor.

There is not enough water.

The drain line is clogged.

The disposal is not grinding finely enough.

Food has been sitting in the disposal too long before

being disposed.

When using the disposal, run more cold water.

Run hot water to clear any clogged grease. Remove the drainpipe if

it needs to be unclogged (NOTE: Do not use harsh chemicals to

clear the drain.)

Replace any dull or damaged parts.

To eliminate the odor, pour baking soda down the drain or grind up a

citrus rind.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

The dishwasher will not turn on.

The dishwasher does not fill with water.

Water continually runs.

The dishes are still dirty at the end of the wash.

The soap dispenser will not open.

The dishes are wet.

The dishwasher is leaking water.

The dishwasher is making unusual noises.

The door is not locked/latched.

The unit is plugged into the wrong receptacle.

The timer or selector button is in the wrong position.

Power is not reaching the unit.

The door switch is malfunctioning.

The timer is defective.

The water valve is not turned on.

The water filter is clogged.

The overflow switch is malfunctioning.

The timer is defective.

The water intake valve is stuck.

The overflow switch is malfunctioning.

The timer is defective.

The water is not hot enough.

Heavy debris and food were not removed from the

dishes prior to loading.

The dishes are not loaded properly.

The detergent is old.

The spray arms are blocked.

There is soap build-up in the soap cup.

The soap dispenser lid is blocked.

There are mineral deposits on the heating element.

The heating element wire is loose.

The heating element has burned out.

The timer is defective

The door seal is damaged.

The overflow switch is defective.

The heating element nuts are loose.

The hose clamps are loose.

The door hinges are broken.

You are using liquid soap.

The spray arm is hitting the dishes.

The water intake valve is damaged causing a

knocking sound when the unit fills.

There is not enough water in the unit.

Be sure the door is securely shut and latched.

If the unit is plugged into a receptacle shared with the disposal, make

sure the plugs are not reversed.

Adjust timer and/or selector buttons to the correct positions.

Ensure the unit is plugged in and reset the breaker, if necessary.

Inspect the door switch for damage. Repair or replace as needed.

Replace the timer.

Make sure the water valve is in the “ON” position (it may be located

under the sink, under the floor in the basement or in a closet behind the

wall).

If the unit has one, clean the water intake valve filter.

Check the switch. The unit will not fill if the switch sticks in the “FILL”

position.

Replace the timer.

Inspect the valve and make sure it is shut.

Check the switch. The unit will not fill if the switch sticks in the “EMPTY”

position.

Replace the timer.

Run the water in the kitchen sink until it gets hot. Then turn on the

dishwasher. This will ensure that it fills up with hot water. Verify that the

water is between 140ºF and 150ºF.

Pre-rinse dishes before loading into the dishwasher.

Dishes should be faced towards the water spray and should not be

touching each other.

Replace with new detergent.

Be sure nothing is blocking the spray arms.

Remove hardened detergent from the soap cup and clean with vinegar.

Remove any obstructions blocking the lid.

Wash the element gently with vinegar.

Secure all electrical connections around the heating element.

Replace the heating element.

Replace the timer.

Replace the door seal.

Check for damage to the switch and replace if necessary.

Check for loose nuts that attach the tub to the element and tighten them.

Check for loose hoses and tighten clamps (you may need to move the

dishwasher).

Replace the door hinges.

Stop using liquid soap and switch to powder soap.

Adjust the dishes to ensure they do not obstruct the spray arms.

Replace the water intake valve.

Avoid using other faucets while the dishwasher is running.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

• Avoid liquid soap, which can over-sud and cause water to drip from the door.

• Regularly clean debris from the spray arms.

• If your dishwasher is stained, fill the detergent cup with powdered orange or lemon drink and let the washer

run through its normal cycle.

• Add a rinse agent to cut down on film.

• When loading dishes, be sure the dishes do not block and/or damage the spray arm and face the dishes

toward the spray for the best cleaning results.

Dishwasher

The dishwasher is not draining and leaves standing

water in the tub. (Note: One to two cups of

remaining water is normal.)

Water is leaking out of the air gap.

There is a kink or clog in the drain hose.

There is a clog in the air gap (small cap located

on the countertop or sink deck).

The pump is blocked.

The kitchen sink drain is clogged.

There is a clog in the hose that runs from the air

gap to the disposal.

Clear the drain hose by disconnecting and blowing through it.

Take the air gap cover off and remove any debris from the air gap.

Check the pump area in the rear of the tub for paper or large objects.

Since the dishwasher drains into the kitchen sink and often the disposal,

run the disposal to clear any food and unclog the drain if necessary.

Detach the line and remove any clogs. Replace the hose.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Dishwasher (con’t)

Helpful Hints!

• To avoid damaging the burners, do not use extra-large and heavy cooking pans.

• Regularly remove any grease or food build-up around the burners and connections.

• If you have a self-clean oven, DO NOT use any other method to clean.

The range will not turn on.

One of the burners does not turn on.

A burner does not cook well.

The timer is not working.

The oven overheats.

The oven does not hold the temperature that was set.

There is a lot of condensation/moisture in the oven.

The light in the oven does not work.

The oven door does not close properly.

Features on the control panel are not working.

The oven’s self-clean function is not working.

Power is not reaching the unit.

If the unit has an electronic control, it may need to

be reset.

The element is not properly plugged in.

The burner is defective.

Oven is in the self-clean cycle.

The wiring, terminal block or switch is defective.

The cooking pan is the wrong size.

The element is damaged.

The timer has not been set correctly.

The timer fuse has blown.

There are loose connections.

The timer has a malfunction.

A vent is clogged.

The door gasket is damaged.

The thermostat is not calibrated correctly.

The vent is clogged.

The door does not close properly.

The bulb is burnt out.

There is a defective switch or poor wiring to the

bulb socket.

A hinge or spring is malfunctioning.

A fuse has blown.

The door is not locked.

Ensure the unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse and reset.

If there is power to the unit and it has an electronic control, disconnect

the power for 15-30 minutes and re-try.

Unplug the burner and reinstall to a fully seated position to ensure

it is securely plugged in.

Remove the burner and plug it into another burner receptacle of the

same size. Turn on that element. If it still does not work, replace

the element.

This cycle requires a high amount of power. The stove may not be able

to work at the same time as the self-clean cycle.

Check each part and replace if necessary.

Use flat-bottomed pans that just cover the element.

Replace the element.

See the owner’s manual for specific instructions.

Check the fuse in the timer circuit.

Turn the power off and tighten all loose electrical connections.

Replace the timer.

Clear the vent to eliminate the clog. If necessary, replace the air filter.

Replace the door gasket.

Call the manufacturer who will help you re-calibrate the unit over the phone.

Clear the vent to eliminate the clog. If necessary, replace the air filter.

Inspect the door hinges and gasket. Repair or replace as needed.

Turn off the oven and replace the bulb with the correct type and size.

Test the switch and wiring. Replace parts as needed.

Replace the defective part.

Check the fuse in the accessory circuit.

Securely shut and re-latch the door and then restart the self-clean cycle.

Electric Cooktop/Range/Oven

Helpful Hints!

• To avoid damaging the burners, do not use extra-large and heavy cooking pans.

• Regularly remove any grease or food build-up around the burners and connections.

• If you have a self-clean oven, DO NOT use any other method to clean it.

The oven or burners will not ignite. The pilot light is out.

Gas is not on.

Relight the pilot. (Call the gas company if assistance is needed.)

Ensure the gas valve is open. If necessary, contact the local gas

company.

Gas Cooktop/Range/Oven

Problem Possible Cause Solution

The oven or burners will not ignite.

The burner will not stay on.

The flame is not steady.

The burners leave soot or make an unusual noise.

The oven overheats or bakes unevenly.

The oven door will not open.

There is a gas odor at the unit.

The burner cap is not properly set

(sealed burner unit).

The pilot port is clogged.

The unit is located in a drafty area.

The burner is clogged.

There is an incorrect mixture of gas and air.

The oven was not pre-heated.

Circulation in the oven is affected by placement of

aluminum foil in the oven.

The exhaust vent is clogged.

The calibration needs to be adjusted.

The door gasket is damaged.

The self-clean dials are in the “ON” position.

The pilot is not lit.

The gas line is leaking.

Make sure the cap is seated properly, is not tilted and does not rock or

wobble. Ensure the cap matches the burner size. Your unit may have one

or more burners that are different sizes and you want to make sure a small

cap is not on a large burner.

Clear the port with a toothpick, small wire or pipe cleaner.

Try to avoid drafts near the range.

Clean the burner surface and ports.

Contact the local gas company.

Allow your oven to preheat before baking. Since many items have a short

cooking time, failure to preheat dramatically affects cooking results.

If you use aluminum foil on your oven shelf, never cover the entire shelf.

This will block the circulation of the heat in the oven. Allow two inches

around the back and sides of the oven shelf for proper heat circulation.

Clean the vent to eliminate the clog. If necessary, replace the air filter.

Call the manufacturer who will help you re-calibrate the unit over the

phone.

Replace the door gasket.

Reset the self-clean dials to the “OFF” position.

Ventilate the room and relight the pilot.

Extinguish all flames. Do not turn on any electrical switches. Immediately

notify the local gas company.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Gas Cooktop/Range/Oven (con’t)

There are small spots/holes in the interior lining.

The touch pad does not operate correctly.

The turntable is not turning.

There is a popping noise or arcing in the unit.

Food particles are stuck to the walls and need to be

removed regularly, before damage begins.

Power is not reaching the unit.

The clock is not set.

Improper programming or a program sequence

was entered.

The turntable is not set in properly.

The turntable was placed upside-down.

A “timer” function was selected.

The unit was turned on when it was empty.

Metal or metallic trimmed items were placed in

the microwave.

The metal cooking rack that comes with the unit is

not set in place correctly.

Boil a cup of water mixed with two tablespoons of lemon juice or baking

soda for 3-5 minutes. The steam will loosen the food that can then be

wiped away.

Ensure the unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse and reset.

Set the clock.

Press “CLEAR” and start over. Sometimes, improper programming or a

program sequence, such as delay start, can cause the touch pads to be

non-responsive.

Set the turntable securely on the turntable motor and ensure it is

centered, or it will not turn.

Turn the turntable right side up. If the turntable is upside-down it will

drag on the floor of the microwave.

Ensure a “cook” function is selected.

Always have something in the microwave when in use.

Never use metal or metal trimmed utensils and serving pieces in the

microwave cavity.

Be sure the rack is firmly in place and not upside-down.

Helpful Hints!

• Do not use pans or dishes that are metal or have metallic trim.

• Use only mild soap and/or baking soda to clean the interior of the microwave.

Microwave Oven

The compactor will not turn on.

The load does not compact completely.

Power is not reaching the unit.

The safety lock is not on.

The drawer is open.

The ram has seized up.

The chain drive, gears or pulley are loose or broken.

Ensure the unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse or tripped

breaker and reset.

Turn on the safety lock.

Be sure the door is shut securely and remove anything that keeps it

from closing.

Oil the ram screws or replace the screws if they are stripped.

Check the chain and tighten or replace if necessary.

Helpful Hints!

• Replace the deodorant regularly to prevent odors.

• Before use, check that the bag is in the proper position and that the retainer ring

and clips are securely in place.

Trash Compactor

A breaker trips or a fuse blows during the

compactor’s cycle.

The compactor makes loud noises.

The compactor door is stuck shut.

The compactor will not stop running.

Trash spills out of the compactor.

The compactor has an unusual odor.

There are too many appliances on one circuit.

There is a short in the cord, plug, or switch.

The drive chain is loose.

The unit needs to be greased.

There are loose parts.

The ram stalled.

The top-limit switch is malfunctioning.

There is a defect in the start/stop switch.

The bag is not installed properly.

The deodorant is empty.

The aerosol nozzle on the deodorant is clogged.

The unit may need its own circuit.

Be sure the cord, plug and switch work.

Tighten the drive chain.

Oil the unit.

Tighten all screw and bolts.

Be sure the unit is closed and plugged into the outlet. If necessary,

inspect for a broken chain, belt, pulley or drive screw.

Unplug the unit and be sure the switch works.

Inspect and replace the switch, as necessary.

Be sure the bag and clips are secure.

Replace the deodorant.

Clear the clog using a thin wire or by running the nozzle under

warm water.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Trash Compactor (con’t)

Helpful Hints!

• Clean the interior shelves, shell and gaskets quarterly.

• Clean the coils on the back or underneath annually.

• Remove odors from your fridge by placing a cotton ball soaked in vanilla extract,

a cup of baking soda or a slice of lemon in the fridge at all times.

No power and/or motor is not turning on, interior

light(s) not working.

The unit has power, the motor is clicking occasionally

and the light is on, yet it is not cooling.

The unit cools poorly, cycles off and on, or is

constantly on.

The unit makes unusual noises.

The unit ices up quickly or will not defrost.

The refrigerator leaks water underneath or inside.

The refrigerator has an unusual odor.

There is no power at the outlet or the unit has come

unplugged.

The condenser coils are dirty.

The condenser fan is malfunctioning (frost-free type).

The thermostat is on the wrong setting.

The condenser coils are dirty.

The door gasket is damaged, allowing air to escape.

There is heavy frost accumulation.

The weather is hot and humid.

Heat is coming from the light because it is not turning

off when the door is closed.

The unit is not sitting level.

The drain pan rattles.

The fan blades are blocked by something.

The door gasket is damaged.

Foods are left uncovered.

The drains are clogged.

The defrost, timer, heater or thermostat is damaged.

The drain hose or drain pan is cracked.

The drains are clogged or the drain pan is full.

The drains are clogged.

The drain pan is dirty.

Food has fallen under “crisper” or “meat” drawers.

Check to see if the unit is still plugged in. If it is plugged in, use a

hair dryer or radio to test the outlet to be sure the outlet is working.

Check for a blown fuse and reset. If it continues to blow the fuse,

the unit may need its own designated circuit.

Clean the coils by gently vacuuming.

Inspect the fan. Repair or replace as needed.

Adjust the temperature setting. If the thermostat is adjusted to 34ºF

or under, try keeping the refrigerator at 40ºF instead.

Clean the coils by gently vacuuming.

Inspect the gasket and replace, as necessary.

Defrost the unit regularly.

If the unit runs continuously but cools correctly, there is no

malfunction with your unit. Try to cool the room.

Push each switch button (one at the light and one near the door).

Make sure they are not stuck.

Level the unit.

Center the pan so it does not touch the sides and is clear of the

compressor.

Be sure the evaporator and compressor fans are not obstructed.

Replace the door gasket, as necessary.

Cover and seal all food and liquids.

Clean all drains.

Check the timer, heater and thermostat for defects.

Replace any broken parts.

Clear all drains and be sure the drain pan is empty.

Flush and clear all drains.

Clean and disinfect the drain pan.

Remove the drawers and clean.

Refrigerator and Freezer

• Clean the lint screen after each load of clothes.

Helpful Hint!

The drum is stuck, though the motor still runs.

The clothes don’t dry, though the drum turns.

The drum is blocked.

The drive belt is broken.

The support wheel or idler wheel assembly is broken.

There is a clog in the lint trap or exhaust vent.

The safety thermostat, heating element or timer

is defective.

Free the drum from any obstructions.

Replace the drive belt.

Inspect all parts and replace as necessary.

Clear the trap and vent.

Inspect all parts and replace as necessary.

Helpful Hints!

• Adjust the level of your washing machine by turning the legs clockwise to lower them or counter-clockwise to raise them.

• To clean your washing machine, fill it with warm water and pour a gallon of distilled vinegar into it. Run the machine

through an entire cycle. The vinegar will clean the hoses and unclog the soap scum.

• To remove odors inside of the washer, fill it with hot water, then set for regular speed and longest time. Add a cup of

baking soda. Allow washer to complete entire wash and rinse cycle. If odor lingers, repeat entire process.

The unit will not turn on.

The machine does not fill with water.

The unit is not draining.

The unit fills with water but does not run.

The motor runs, but the unit does not agitate or spin.

The water is not hot enough.

The water runs continuously.

The unit is leaking water.

The unit shakes or vibrates across the floor.

The outlet does not have power.

The safety switch has tripped.

The house inlet valve may not be open.

There is no water supply.

The filters are clogged.

There is a kink in one of the water hoses.

The timer is not set.

The control button for the water is not pushed in

all the way.

The drain hose is kinked.

The position of the drain hose is too high.

The lid is not closed completely.

The lid safety switch is tripped.

There is too much laundry in the tub.

The timer is defective.

The drive belt is loose or broken.

The water heater setting is too low.

The water supply hoses are misconnected.

There is a defect in the mixing valve or timer.

The overflow switch hose is disconnected.

The overflow switch, timer or mixing valve is defective.

The hose connection is loose.

The gasket, mixing valve, hoses, overflow switch or

sensor is defective.

The machine or load is not level.

There is a loose/defective hose connection.

Ensure unit is plugged in. Reset the fuse box or circuit breaker.

Distribute the clothes evenly in the machine and be sure the lid is

completely closed.

Open the valve.

Make sure the water valve is turned on.

Clean the inlet hose filters.

Straighten all water hoses.

Slightly turn the timer, ensuring all buttons are set correctly.

Push in the button to make sure it is fully depressed.

Straighten the drain hose.

Do not position drain hoses higher than 4 feet above the floor.

The washer drains and spins at the same time, so the lid must be down.

Make sure the lid is firmly attached and closed. Test the switch.

Take some items out and give the machine 15 minutes to reset the cycle.

Replace the timer.

Tighten or replace the drive belt as necessary.

Set the thermostat on the water heater to between 140ºF and 160ºF.

Reconnect the hot water hose to the hot water side and the cold water

hose to the cold water side.

Replace the valve or timer.

Replace the water hose.

Replace the overflow switch, timer or mixing value as necessary.

Tighten the connection.

Replace the defective part or parts as necessary.

Level the machine and distribute clothes evenly in the tub.

Tighten or replace the connection.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Clothes Washer

The unit will not turn on. The door is open.

No power is reaching the unit.

The motor wiring is loose.

There is a defect in the door switch, centrifugal

switch or timer.

Shut the door securely.

Ensure the unit is plugged in.

Reset the fuse box or circuit breaker.

Tighten all loose electrical connections.

Inspect all parts and replace as necessary.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Clothes Dryer

The load takes a long time to dry.

The unit does not stop drying at the end of the cycle.

The dryer is making a squeaking noise.

Front Loader won’t unlock.

There is a clog in the lint trap or exhaust vent.

The dryer is overloaded.

The clothes are too wet.

The fan is loose.

The door gasket is damaged.

The timer is defective.

Loose cabinet screws may cause squeaks.

Foreign objects are causing squeaks.

Cycle not complete.

Water not draining.

Clothes blocking.

Clear the trap and vent.

Remove some items and dry the load again.

Ensure the spin cycle is completed in the washer and remove

some clothes to dry the load again.

Check the fan and tighten if necessary.

Replace the door gasket.

Replace the timer.

Check all exposed screws and make sure they are tight.

Check for foreign objects in the drum and below the lint filter.

Complete time cycle.

Drain manually.

Push in before opening to clear clothes.

Check owner’s manual for steps to unlock manually.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Clothes Dryer (con’t)

Helpful Hints!

• Clean and/or replace filters once a month.

• One month before the start of heating season, have maintenance performed on your heating system.

• Open window shades and awnings to increase direct sunlight entering your home and lower heating costs.

There is no heat.

The rooms are not warm enough.

Soot gathers in the house.

The blower makes unusual noises.

There is no power to the unit.

The blower belt is broken.

The filter is dirty.

The registers are dirty.

There are air leaks in the ducts.

The ducts are blocked.

A register is closed.

The duct damper is in an incorrect position.

The blower belt is loose.

The filter is dirty.

The ducts are dirty.

The pulley is loose.

A belt is worn out or the tension is too tight.

The blower bearings need oil.

Ensure unit is plugged in. Check for a blown fuse and reset.

Replace the belt.

Replace the filter.

Clean and vacuum the registers and ensure they are open.

Seal the leaks with duct tape.

Remove any objects that are blocking the duct.

Open all registers.

Adjust the dampers to correct.

Tighten the blower belt.

Replace the filter.

Have the ducts professionally cleaned.

Tighten the pulley screws.

Replace the worn belt or loosen the tension.

Oil the bearings.

Heating System

Helpful Hints!

• Clean and/or replace the filters once a month.

• Keep the condensing unit free of debris by vacuuming dust and lint from the registers regularly.

• One month before air conditioning season, have maintenance service done on your system.

• Use window shades and awnings in the summer to reduce the amount of sunlight

entering your home and lower cooling costs.

The unit will not turn on.

The air is not cool enough.

The unit constantly cycles off and on.

Water is leaking into the walls or ceiling (attic installation.)

There is a blown fuse or tripped breaker.

The condenser coil is dirty.

There is direct sun on the evaporator unit.

The insulation has fallen off the feed line.

There may be a clog in the evaporator unit or

something blocking the fan.

The filter is dirty.

The drain hose from the condenser pan is clogged.

Check the circuit breaker and replace the fuses in the disconnect box.

(Always turn off the circuit breaker before replacing the fuses.)

Remove all debris from and around the unit so that air can properly

circulate through the fans and replace/clean the filters.

Create shade for the unit.

Reattach any loose insulation and replace any worn-out insulation.

Clean out the evaporator unit.

Replace or clean the filter.

Unclog the hose so water can empty through it.

Air Conditioning System

• To prevent power outages, be sure to avoid overloading circuits with too many appliances or fixtures.

Electrical System

Helpful Hint!

The lights or outlets do not work.

There is no power to the entire house or half of

the house.

There is no power to the outlet or fixture.

The outlet or switch is defective.

There is a tripped circuit breaker.

Be sure all switches at the fuse box are in the “ON” position and

no fuses have blown. Unplug all appliances and reset the breaker.

Reset the GFI outlet if it has been tripped.

Replace the outlet or switch.

Reset the circuit breaker and replace any fuses, as necessary.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Helpful Hints!

• Maintain proper water level at all times.

• Keep the pool chemically balanced. Most pool supply stores will test a sample of your pool water for free.

• Consult your pool and spa company for specific suggestions on maintaining your particular system.

The pump has no power.

The pump will not prime.

The heater is not working.

The water pressure is too low or too high.

The filter is not working.

The motor is not receiving power.

The water level is too low and the prime has been lost.

The valves are not in the correct position.

There are leaks in the suction line.

The pilot is not lit.

The gas valve is on the pilot setting (gas heater).

The unit is not receiving gas.

There is no power to the unit.

Pressure switch tripped due to a dirty filter.

The filter is dirty or blocked.

The skimmer and pump basket are clogged.

The valves are in the wrong position.

There is a water leak.

The circuit breaker has tripped.

The motor is not plugged in or the timer is not

set properly.

The filter is clogged.

Reset the fuse box or circuit breaker. Be sure the timer is set

correctly. Oil the motor as necessary.

Add water to the pool/spa.

Correct the valve position.

Locate and repair the leaks.

Light the pilot.

Turn the pilot setting to the “ON” position.

Be sure the gas cock is in the correct position.

Reset the circuit breaker or relight the pilot.

Backwash the filter.

Backwash the filter and clean the cartridge.

Clean the skimmer and pump basket.

Correct the valve position.

Locate and repair the leaks.

Reset the circuit breaker.

Plug in the motor and reset the timer.

D.E. Filter - Backwash or replace.

Sand Filter - Replace sand.

Cartridge Filter - Remove and clean cartridge.

Problem Possible Cause Solution

Pool/Spa Equipment

Know someone who is buying or selling a home?

I appreciate your referrals!

Old Republic Home Protection Service: (800) 972-5985 or visit www.orhp.com - Homeowner Central

Old Republic Home Protection Plan #:

Phone Company:

Gas Company:

Electric Company:

Water Company:

Cable Company:

Fire Station:

Police Station:

Homeowner’s Insurance Agent:

Homeowner’s Policy #:

Poison Control Center:

Important Information

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