Furuno 235Dht Mse Installation Instructions 17 006 01 Rev11_TH_Flush

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low profile

P319

17-006-01 rev. 11 01/26/11

Thru-Hull, Depth

Transducer

Low Profile, Flush, and Retractable Models

Applications

•Plastic housing recommended for fiberglass or metal hull only.

Never install a plastic transducer in a wood hull, since swelling

of the wood can possibly fracture the plastic.

•Bronze housing recommended for fiberglass or wood hull.

Never install a bronze housing in an aluminum hull, because

electrolytic corrosion will occur.

•Stainless steel housing compatible with all hull materials.

Recommended for aluminum hull to prevent electrolytic corrosion

provided the stainless steel housing is isolated from the metal hull.

• Accommodates up to a 20° deadrise angle.

Tools & Materials

Safety goggles

Dust mask

Electric drill with 10mm (3/8") or larger chuck capacity

Drill bit: 3mm or 1/8"

Hole saw (see table opposite)

Countersink tool (installing a flush housing)

Sandpaper

Mild household detergent or weak solvent (such as alcohol)

File (installation in a metal hull)

Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)

Additional washer [for aluminum hull less than 6mm (1/4") thick]

Slip-joint pliers (installing a metal housing)

Grommet(s) (some installations)

Cable ties

Water-based anti-fouling paint (mandatory in salt water)

Installation in a cored fiberglass hull (see page 4):

Hole saw for hull interior: (see table on this page)

Fiberglass cloth and resin

or Cylinder, wax, tape, and casting epoxy

Identify Your Model

The model name is printed on the cable tag.

Model

(Housing)

Minimum

Headroom

Outside Hull

Hole Saw Size

Cored Fiberglass Hull

Hull Interior

Hole Saw Size

Low Profile:

B22, B117,

P19, P319

95 mm (3-3/4") 51 mm or 2" 60 mm or 2-3/8"

P5 161mm 6-3/8”) 51 mm or 2" 60 mm or 2-3/8"

Flush:

B21, P219, P269 100 mm (4") 51 mm or 2" 60 mm or 2-3/8"

Retractable:

B17, B21

P17, P217, P314

200 mm (8") 51 mm or 2" 60 mm or 2-3/8"

Retractable:

SS577 200 mm (8")

51 mm or 2"

in a fiberglass or

wood hull

57 mm or 2-1/4"

in a metal hull

60 mm or 2-3/8"

Record the information found on the cable tag for future reference.

Part No._________________Date___________Frequency________kHz

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSOWNER’S GUIDE &

retractable

low profile

B17

P219

flush

WARNING: Always wear safety goggles and a dust

mask when installing to avoid personal injury.

WARNING: Immediately check for leaks when the

boat is placed in the water. Do not leave the boat

unchecked for more than three hours. Even a small

leak may allow considerable water to accumulate.

WARNING: Retractable models—The O-rings must

be intact and well lubricated to make a watertight seal.

WARNING: Retractable models—Always attach the

safety wire to prevent the insert or blanking plug from

backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails

or is screwed on incorrectly.

WARNING: B117 and P319—Do not use the spacer

if there is insufficient space to tighten the nut or it is

within 11mm (1/2") of the top of the housing.

WARNING: Stainless steel housing in metal hull—

Be sure the washer contacts the hull. Do not tighten

the hull nut with the washer against the isolation

bushing, as the housing will not be firmly installed. If

necessary, sand the isolation bushing until the washer

rests against the hull.

CAUTION: Never pull, carry, or hold the transducer by

its cable; this may sever internal connections.

CAUTION: Never use solvents. Cleaners, fuel,

sealants, paint, and other products may contain strong

solvents, such as acetone, which attack many

plastics, greatly reducing their strength.

CAUTION: Plastic housing—Never use a fairing with

a plastic housing; the protruding sensor would be

vulnerable to damage from impact.

CAUTION: Metal housing—Never install a metal

housing on a vessel with a positive ground system.

CAUTION: Stainless steel housing in metal hull—

Stainless steel must be isolated from a metal hull to

prevent electrolytic corrosion. Use the isolation

bushing supplied.

IMPORTANT: Read the instructions completely

before proceeding with the installation. These

instructions supersede any other instructions in your

instrument manual if they differ.

Mounting Location

CAUTION: Do not mount near water intake or discharge openings

or behind strakes, fittings, or hull irregularities.

• The water flowing under the hull must be smooth with a

minimum of bubbles and turbulence (especially at high speeds).

• The transducer must be continuously immersed in water.

• The transducer beam must be unobstructed by the keel or

propeller shaft(s).

• Choose a location away from interference caused by power and

radiation sources such as: the propeller(s) and shaft(s), other

machinery, other echosounders, and other cables. The lower

the noise level, the higher the echosounder gain setting that

can be used.

• Choose a location with a minimal deadrise angle, so the

transducer beam will be aimed at the bottom.

• Choose an accessible spot inside the vessel with adequate

headroom for the height of the housing, tightening the nuts, and

removing any insert (see the table below).

Hull Types (see Figure 1)

•Displacement hull powerboats—Locate amidships near the

centerline. The starboard side of the hull where the propeller

blades are moving downward is preferred.

•Planing hull powerboats—Mount well aft, on or near the

centerline, and well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes to

ensure that the transducer will be in contact with the water at

high speeds. The starboard side of the hull where the propeller

blades are moving downward is preferred.

Outboard and I/O—Mount just forward of the engine(s).

Inboard—Mount well ahead of the propeller(s) and shaft(s).

Stepped hull—Mount just ahead of the first step.

Boat capable of speeds above 25kn (29MPH)—Review the

installation location and operating results of similar boats before

proceeding.

•Fin keel sailboats—Mount on or near the centerline and

forward of the fin keel 300–600mm (1–2').

•Full keel sailboats—Locate amidships and away from the keel

at the point of minimum deadrise.

Installation

Hole Drilling

Cored fiberglass hull—Follow separate instructions on page 4.

1. Drill a 3 mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib,

strut, or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting

location, drill from the outside.

2. Using the appropriate size outside hull hole saw, cut a hole

perpendicular to the hull from outside the boat (see table on page 1).

Flush housing—Use a countersink tool to make a “seat” in the hull.

3. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to

ensure that the marine sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If

there is any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with

either mild household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol)

before sanding.

Metal hull—Remove all burrs with a file and sandpaper.

Bedding

CAUTION; Be sure the surfaces to be bedded are clean and dry.

Apply a 2mm (1/16") thick layer of marine sealant around the

flange of the housing that will contact the hull and up the sidewall

of the housing (see Figure 2). The sealant must extend 6mm

(1/4") higher than the combined thickness of the hull, washer, any

spacer, and the hull nut. This will ensure there is sealant in the

threads to seal the hull and to hold the hull nut securely in place.

Stainless steel housing in a metal hull—The stainless steel

housing must be isolated from the metal hull to prevent electrolytic

corrosion. Slide the isolation bushing onto the housing (see

Figure 3). Apply additional marine sealant to the surfaces of the

bushing that will contact the hull, filling any cavities in and around

the bushing.

Installing

NOTE: Ignore any arrows on the housing, insert, and blanking plug.

1. From outside the hull, push the housing into the mounting hole

using a twisting motion to squeeze out excess marine sealant.

2. From inside the hull, slide the washer onto the housing (see

Figure 2).

B117 and P319—Also slide the spacer onto the housing and

rest it against the washer. Do not use the spacer if there is

insufficient space to tighten the nut or it is within 11mm (1/2") of

the top of the housing.

Aluminum hull less than 6mm (1/4") thick—If necessary, use

an additional rubbery, fiberglass, or plastic washer. Never use

bronze since electrolytic corrosion will occur. Never use wood

since it will swell, possibly fracturing the plastic housing.

Stainless steel transducer in metal hull—Be sure the washer

contacts the hull. Do not tighten the hull nut with the washer

against the isolation bushing, as the housing will not be firmly

installed. If necessary, sand the isolation bushing until the

washer rests against the hull (see Figure 3).

3. Screw the hull nut in place.

Plastic housing—If your housing has wrenching flats, do not

clamp tightly possibly causing the housing to fracture.

Plastic hull nut—Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.

Metal hull nut—Tighten with slip-joint pliers.

Cored Fiberglass Hull—Do not over tighten, crushing the hull.

Wood hull—Allow the wood to swell before tightening the hull nut.

4. Remove any excess marine sealant on the outside of the hull to

ensure smooth water flow over the transducer.

2

planing hulls

Figure 1.

full keel sailboats

large displacement hulls small displacement hulls

fin keel sailboats

Best location for transducer

Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.

stepped hull

outboard and I/O

fiberglass hull

plastic, bronze, or stainless steel housing

housing

hull nut

spacer

washer

hull

marine sealant on flange and

side wall of housing

Retractable Models

1. After the marine sealant cures, inspect the O-rings on the

transducer insert (replace if necessary) and lubricate them with

the silicone lubricant supplied. The O-rings must be intact and

well lubricated to make a watertight seal.

2. Slide the insert into the housing. Seat the insert into place with a

twisting motion until the key fits into the notch. Be careful not to

rotate the housing and disturb the marine sealant. Screw the

cap nut in place and hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.

D/DT800—Be sure the insert is fully inserted into the housing.

Screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are engaged.

Continue to tighten the cap nut completely for a watertight seal.

3. Attach the safety wire to prevent the insert from backing out in

the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is screwed on

incorrectly (see Figure 2 or 3).

Plastic housing—Attach the safety wire to one eye in the hull nut.

Keeping the wire taut throughout, lead the wire in a

counterclockwise direction and thread it through one eye in the cap

nut, the pull ring/eye in the insert, the second eye in the cap nut,

and the second eye in the hull nut. Twist the wire securely to itself.

Metal housing—Wrap one end of the safety wire tightly around

the housing and twist it together with the long end. Keeping the

wire taut throughout, lead the wire straight up and through the

eye in the cap nut. Loop the wire through the pull ring/eye in the

insert and twist it securely to itself.

Cable Routing & Connecting

CAUTION: If your transducer came with a connector, do not

remove it to ease cable routing. If the cable must be cut and

spliced, use Airmar’s splash-proof Junction Box No. 33-035 and

follow the instructions provided. Removing the waterproof

connector or cutting the cable, except when using a water-tight

junction box, will void the sensor warranty.

1. Route the cable to the instrument, being careful not to tear the

cable jacket when passing it through the bulkhead(s) and other

parts of the boat. Use grommets to prevent chafing. To reduce

electrical interference, separate the transducer cable from other

electrical wiring and the engine. Coil any excess cable and

secure it in place using cable ties to prevent damage.

2. Refer to the echosounder owner’s manual to connect the

transducer to the instrument.

Checking for Leaks

When the boat is placed in the water, immediately check around

the thru-hull transducer for leaks. Note that very small leaks may

not be readily observed. Do not leave the boat in the water for

more than 3 hours before checking it again. If there is a small

leak, there may be considerable bilge water accumulation after 24

hours. If a leak is observed, repeat “Bedding” and “Installing”

immediately (see page 2).

Installation in a Cored Fiberglass Hull

The core (wood or foam) must be cut and sealed carefully. The

core must be protected from water seepage, and the hull must be

reinforced to prevent it from crushing under the hull nut allowing

the housing to become loose.

CAUTION: Completely seal the hull to prevent water seepage into

the core.

1. Drill a 3 mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib, strut,

or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting location, drill from

the outside. (If the hole is drilled in the wrong location, drill a second hole

in a better location. Apply masking tape to the outside of the hull over the

incorrect hole and fill it with epoxy.)

3

Figure 2. Bedding and installing

retractable insert

washer

hull

pull ring

safety wire

cap nut

hull nut

washer

hull

pull ring

safety wire

cap nut (plastic)

hull nut

marine sealant on flange and

Figure 3. Bedding and installing

flush housing metal housing

transducer insert

transducer insert

housing

housing

Copyright © 2006 - 2010 Airmar Technology Corp.

side wall of housing

Copyright © 2006 - 2011 Airmar Technology Corp.

(B17 shown)

(P217 shown)

marine sealant on flange and

side wall of housing

stainless steel housing in a metal hull

(SS577 shown)

(plastic/metal)

(P319/B117 shown)

fiberglass or wood hullfiberglass or wood hull

retractable insert

marine sealant on flange and

isolation

bushing

washer

sidewall of housing

cap nut

hull

safety wire

housing

insert

(plastic)

(metal)

hull nut

and isolation bushing where it contacts hull

4Copyright © 2006 - 2011 Airmar Technology Corp. All rights reserved.

2. Using the appropriate size outside hull hole saw, cut a hole from outside

the hull through the outer skin only (see table on page 1) (see Figure 4).

3. From inside the hull using the appropriate size hull interior hole saw, cut

through the inner skin and most of the core (see table on page 1). The core

material can be very soft. Apply only light pressure to the hole saw after

cutting through the inner skin to avoid accidentally cutting the outer skin.

4. Remove the plug of core material, so the inside of the outer skin and the

inner core of the hull is fully exposed. Sand and clean the inner skin,

core, and the outer skin around the hole.

5. If you are skilled with fiberglass, saturate a layer of fiberglass cloth with

a suitable resin and lay it inside the hole to seal and strengthen the

core. Add layers until the hole is the correct diameter.

Alternatively, a hollow or solid cylinder of the correct diameter can be

coated with wax and taped in place. Fill the gap between the cylinder and

hull with casting epoxy. After the epoxy has set, remove the cylinder.

6. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to ensure

that the marine sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is any

petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild household

detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.

7. Proceed with “Bedding” and “Installing” on page 2.

Maintenance, Parts & Replacement

Anti-fouling Paint

Surfaces exposed to salt water must be coated with anti-fouling

paint. Use water-based anti-fouling paint only. Never use ketone

based anti-fouling paint, since ketones can attack many plastics

possibly damaging the transducer. Apply anti-fouling paint every 6

months or at the beginning of each boating season.

Retractable models—Paint the following surfaces:

• Outside wall of the insert below lower O-ring and exposed end

• Bore of the housing up 30mm (1-1/4”)

• Exterior flange of the housing

• Blanking plug below the lower O-ring including the exposed end

Cleaning

Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the transducer’s

surface, reducing its performance within weeks. Clean the surface

with a Scotch-Brite® scour pad and mild household detergent,

being careful to avoid making scratches. If the fouling is severe,

lightly wet sand it with fine grade wet/dry paper.

Retractable Models: Blanking Plug

1. The O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to make a

watertight seal. On the blanking plug, inspect the O-rings

(replace if necessary) and lubricate them with the silicone

lubricant supplied or petroleum jelly (Vaseline®).

2. Remove the transducer insert from the housing by removing the

safety wire and unscrewing the cap nut (see Figure 2).

3. With the blanking plug ready in one hand, pull the transducer

insert most of the way out. Remove the insert and rapidly

replace it with the blanking plug. Seat it into place with a

pushing twisting motion until the key fits into the notch in the

housing. With practice, only 250ml (10oz.) of water will enter the

boat. Screw the cap nut in place and hand tighten only. Do not

over tighten.

D/DT800—Being sure the blanking plug is fully inserted into the

housing, screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are

engaged. Continue to tighten the cap nut completely for a

watertight seal. Hand tighten only. Do not over tighten.

4. Reattach the safety wire to prevent the blanking plug from

backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is

screwed on incorrectly.

Retractable Models: O-rings

O-rings must be free of abrasions and cuts to ensure a watertight

seal. On the insert and blanking plug, inspect the O-rings (replace

if necessary) and lubricate them with the silicone lubricant

supplied or petroleum jelly (Vaseline®).

Retractable Models: Winterizing

After the boat has been hauled for winter storage, remove the

blanking plug to let the water drain away before reinserting it. This

will prevent any water from freezing around the blanking plug and

possibly cracking it.

Replacement Transducer & Parts

The information needed to order a replacement Airmar transducer

is printed on the cable tag. Do not remove this tag. When

ordering, specify the part number, date, and frequency in kHz. For

convenient reference, record this information on the top of page one.

Lost, broken, or worn parts should be replaced immediately.

D/DT800 O-rings 33-519-01

Obtain parts from your instrument manufacturer or marine dealer.

Gemeco Tel: 803-693-0777

(USA) Fax: 803-693-0477

email: sales@gemeco.com

Airmar EMEA Tel: +33.(0)2.23.52.06.48

(Europe, Middle East, Africa) Fax: +33.(0)2.23.52.06.49

email: sales@airmar-emea.com

Model Housing Kit, Washer,

Spacer, or Isolation Bushing Hull Nut Cap Nut Blanking

Plug

B17

B21

33-100 (bronze, low profile)

33-224-01 (bronze, flush) 02-030 04-234-1 (plastic)

02-131-01 (bronze) 33-414

B22

B117 04-646-01 (spacer) 02-030 — —

P5 04-002

P17 33-417 (plastic, low profile) 04-004 04-234-1 (plastic) 33-414

P19

P219

P269

—04-004——

P217

P314

33-217 (plastic, flush)

33-092-01 (plastic, flush) 04-004 04-234-1 (plastic) 33-414

P319 04-646-01 (spacer) 04-004 — —

SS577

33-495-01 (stainless steel,

low profile)

04-186-1 (bushing)

20-570-01 04-234-1 (plastic) 33-414

Figure 4. Preparing a cored fiberglass hull

inner skin

core

outer skinsolid or hollow cylinder

pour in

casting

epoxy

9-12 mm

(3/8-1/2")

larger than the

hole through the

hull’s outer skin

hull thickness

Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.

AIRMAR

®

TECHNOLOGY CORPORATION

35 Meadowbrook Drive, Milford, New Hampshire 03055-4613, USA

www.airmar.com