Kenmore 15817570 User Manual SEWING MACHINE HEAD Manuals And Guides L1005341

User Manual: Kenmore 15817570 15817570 KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE HEAD - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE HEAD #15817570. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore KENMORE SEWING MACHINE HEAD Manual

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
[

Knowing Your Sewing Machine

identifying Parts .............................
1,2
Installing Machine ..............................
3
Winding the Bobbin ...........................
4
Threading the Bobbin Case ..................
5
"[hreading of Top Thread .....................
6
Using the Controls
Top Tension Control ....................
7.8
Adjusting Bobbin Tension ..................
9
Checking Tensions .......................
10
Stitch Length Control ,,: ...............
1t 12
Stitch Width Control ..................
l t, 12
Reverse Stitch Control ..................
11. t2
Special Stitch Variegator ..................
', t
Metal Cam ..................................
|3
Special Stitch Dial ...................
14.15, 16
Pressure Regulator ........................
|7
Feed Dog Control ...... •....................
t8
Sewing Light .................................
18
Multi Purpose Needle Plate ...............
19
Accessories
Needles ................................
Presser Feet ................................
Buttonhole Attachment ....................

20 21
22
23

]_ Starting to Sew ............................
Garment Construction Stitches

Straight Stitching ..........................
Zigzag Stitching ...........................
Chain Stitching .............................
27.
Stretch Stitching .............
29 30.3t
Special Finishing Stitches
Satin Stitching .............................
Buttonhole Making
.......................
Appliqueing °;. ..............................
Blind. Hemming .......................

25
26
28
32

33
34
35
35.36

_[ Checking Performance Problems .... 37, 38
Hints on Sewing on Different Fabrics 39.40
p/" Caring for the Machine
Cleaning Feed Dogs end Shuttle ........
42
Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate ...........
43
Oiling Underside ...........................
44
Oiling in Face Cover Plate .................
44
Parts List .................................
45.46

1. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE-

FRONT VIEW

BACK VIEW

@
@
@

@
®
®

®
®

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10,

Hand Hole Cover Plate
Seam Guide Lines
Presser Foot
Needle Clamp Screw
Thread Cutter
Thread Guide
Top Thread Tension Control
Thread Guide
Face Cover Plate
Take-up Lever

11.
12.
13,
14.
15,
16.
17.
18.
19.

Upper Thread Guides
Special Stitch Variegator
Stitch Length Control
Reverse Stitch Control
Stitch Width Control
Special Stitch Dial
Light and Power Switch
Feed Dog Control
Nomenclature Plate

20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.

Clutch Knob
Hand Wheel
Bobbin Winder
Thread Spool Pins
Design Cam Cover
Bobbin Winder Tension Disc

26.
27.
28.
29.
30,

Pressure Regulator
Presser Foot Lever
Presser Foot Thumb Screw
Multi Purpose Needle Plate
Feed Dogs

INSTALLINGMACHINE

WINDINGTHE BOBBIN

/
®
®

Loosen the two hinge screws under
holes in the rear edge of the machine bed.

2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet
cutout.
Slip machine head onto
pins.
3. Tighten hinge screws securely.
4. Push the speed control plug onto
three-prong connector under the
bed plate. Lower machine head to
front cabinet flap.

Lower machine
cabinet flap.

head

front

5. Plug machine cord into any 110120 volt wall outlet. Turn on power
by pushing light and power switch.
6. Spool pins are packed in accessory
box; after screwing thread spool
pins in place, wipe machine carefully of excess oil used in shipping.

1. Draw thread from spool through
bobbin winder tension disc as
shown in Fig. 1.

2. Wind threadaroundan empty bobbin severaltimesas in Fig. 2.
3. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder
shaft with thread wound on bobbin
clockwise.
Push bobbin winder
latch against bobbin until it clicks.

4. Release clutch by turning clutch
knob toward you. Start machine.
5. When bobbin is
mechanism stops.

full,

winding

6. Tighten clutch knob and remove
bobbin.

THREADINGTHE BOBBINCASE

THREADINGOF TOP THREAD

Fig. 1

\
®

Fig. 2
r

;__

1. To remove bobbin from the shuttle,
raise needle to its highest position.
Remove hand hole cover plate.
2. Pull open latch of bobbin case.
3. Pull bobbin case straight out of
shuttle.
4. Insert bobbin into bobbin case
making sure thread is coming
from bobbin as shown.
5. Pull thread through slot of case
as shown.

6. Pull thread under tension spring.
7. Holding latch open, position case
into shuttle, and release latch. Case
should lock into place when latch
is released.
8. Hold needle thread loosely in left
hand and rotate hand wheel toward
you one complete turn. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper
thread.

Place thread on spool pin as shown
with thread coming from the back of
the spool. Draw thread through the
top thread guides. Holding the spool
stationary with right hand, pull the end
of the thread between the tension discs
as shown. Pull the spring wire loop up
and past the top hook until the thread

Fig. 3

can be slipped into the hook (See Fig.
1). When the thread is released, the
spring wire loop will return to position
(See Fig. 2) with thread in proper
place. Release spool of thread and
continue to thread machine exactly as
shown. Needle must always be threaded in direction as shown in Fig. 3.

CONTROLS
TOP

TENSION

CONTROL

ADJUSTING

TOP TENSIONS

Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates
your top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes.
The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial on the front of
the control. The higher the number, the tighter the tension.

There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension
for one fabric may not be correct for another. The required tension depends
upon the stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of
fabric being sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are making.

A perfect straight stitch will have
threads locked between the two
layers of fabric with no loops on
top or bottom.

Upper thread too tight
/I

Decrease

Tension

Upper thread too loose
Increase Tension

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before
starting to make a garment. To adjust for the correct stitch, see next page.

ADJUSTING

BOBBIN

Bobbin
tension.

requires

tension

CHECKING

TENSION,
adjusting

less frequently

than

the

upper

thread

If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to
loosen the tension . on both the top and bottom threads. Be sure to balance
them as indicated on Page 9.
When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with
•a screwdriver.

To check the
same size on
for the fabric
for about 12

TENSIONS
thread tension balance, be sure to use mercerized thread of the
the top and on the bobbin; and a sharp, correctly sized needle
you are sewing. Begin with a full bobbin. Set the stitch length
stitches per inch.

Fold a 6" square of fabric in half diagonally, forming a triangle. Make a line of
stitching 1/2" in from the fold.

a. If seam is puckered - both tensions are too tight.
b. If the bottom thread lays on the fabric - tighten upper thread
tension, and repeat test. See Fig. 3, Page 8.
DECREASE

TENSION

c. If the top thread lays on the fabric - loosen upper thread tension,
and repeat test. See Fig. 2, Page 8.

Grasp the stitching and pull with a snap to make the threads break.

a. If both threads break - tensions are balanced.
b. If neither thread breaks - both tensions

are too loose.

c. If upper thread breaks - loosen top tension.
Turn Counter

Clockwise.

d. If lower thread breaks - tighten top tension.
INCREASE

TENSION
Both threads do not have to break at the same place, but they should break
on the same snap.

It is necessary to reduce the upper thread tension somewhat when zigzag
stitching. The wider the stitch, the less tension that is needed. This is particularly important when making designs. It is not desirable to have any of
bottom thread visible on the right side of the fabric when making designs.
Turn

Clockwise.

STITCH

LENGTH

CONTROL

STITCH

LENGTH

STITCH

WIDTH

CONTROL

The stitch length control regulates the length of the stitch you select. THE
HIGHER THE NUMBER - THE SHORTER THE STITCH. Turn only the outer
rim of this control to set the stitch length.

The number on stitch length control indicates stitch number per inch.
The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric
you are sewing.

A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of
fabric.
The middle range of the control is the 10-12 stitch per inch range which is
the most commonly used.

A basting stitch is made by using the longest possible stitch setting - 6 stitches
per inch.
The red marking m
on the control is the setting used for the shortest
stitches such as in Satin Stitching.

STITCH

WIDTH

CONTROL

This control regulates the width of the stitch you select. THE HIGHER THE
NUMBER - THE WIDER THE STITCH. You may vary your zigzag stitch width
by adjusting this control to the setting you desire.
This control must be on Red Dot in order to do straight stitching,
Turn only the outer rim of this control to set the stitch width.
The center of the control dials the special stitches the machine is capable
of sewing.

REVERSE STITCH

CONTROL

REVERSE STITCH

CONTROL

It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse. This
is called back tacking. Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams firmly
and prevents raveling.
When reversestitching is needed, simply lower the lever and hold there during
sewing, The fabric will immediately start feeding backwards and the seam
will be fastened.

SPECIAL

STITCH

VARIEGATOR

SPECIAL

STITCH

There are certain

DIAL

types of utility

sewing.
This control
task at hand.

enables

stitches

you

to just

you
dial

will
the

use often in your
stitch

you

need

home
for

the

All stitches printed in red on the dial must be sewn with the Special Stitch
Variegator set at the Red Dot.
This control determines the feed of the feed dogs. All _imple forward stitcl_es
require that this control be set at the red dot.
These stitches are the
straight stitch, zigzag, mending, blind hem, and basic decorative desig,n_

Stretch stitches and reverse stitch designs are made by setting the Special
Stitch Variegator to point to the white and green dots or adjusted slightly
toward the white arrow head mark above the dots. See next section for
specific settings for individual stitches.

METAL

To make the stitches printed in white and green on this dial, the Special Stitch
Variegator must be set at the white and green dots.

THE RED DOT SETTING

CAM

White

Cam
Position

Indicator Pin.

When you open the Design Cam Cover you will find a metal cam in the
machine as illustrated. This cam must remain in the machine at all times,
unless you are using one of the plastic design cams.

The setting illustrated above is the one used for most of your stitching.
At this setting you may straight stitch, stretch stitch and make a simple
zig zag stitch. As each stitch is dependent upon the settings of your other
controls, carefully read the directions in thi_ next section of the book for the
various stitches.

It is best to have the cam so placed that the white zone is aligned with the
indicator pin. This will allow you to sew the stitches printed in white on
your Special Stitch Dial. To make the green stitches, reposition the metal
cam so that the green zone is adjacent to the indicator pin.

BLIND STITCH

SETTING

Blind hems are made by using the setting shown above with the Stitch
Variegator set onthe red dot.

SPECIAL MENDING STITCH AND SMOCKING STRETCH

CAM SETTING

The CAM setting on the dial is used whenever you wish to use any of the
14 insert cams to make decorative embroidery patterns. Very detailed instructions in the use of the cams and designs are given in the next section
of the book.

SERGING OR PINE LEAF STRETCH

You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category. For this
reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears. It is
accomplished with the above illustrated setting and the Variegator set at
the red dot. When the Variegator is turned to the white and green dots, a
Smocking stretch or Feather stretch results. For directions see the next
section of the book.

This is a stitch that has been used in the garment industry for many years.
It forms a good looking seam as well as overcasts the edges. It is imperative
that this stitch is used for seaming of swimwear, stretch ski pants and other
types of knit sportswear. Variegator must be set on the white and green
dots.

OTHER ADJUSTMENTS

OF MACHINE

IN SEWING

FEED DOG CONTROL

In addition to the obviouscontrolsof your machine, there are other small
regulatorsand controlsto aid you in using your sewing machine.
PRESSURE

The feed dog control is located on the
right front of the machine bedplate.
There are a few times when you want
to control the feeding of the fabric
yourself. When the control is turned
to the left, the feed dogs drop and do
not move the fabric.

REGULATOR

Fig. 1

For most of your sewing, turn knob to
the right, "'U" (Feed dog up).

SEWING

LIGHT

The light and power switch shown
above in Fig. 1 provides the electric
current for the motor as well as the
light. In order to operate the machine,
this switch must be on.
To turn on the light, depress the
switch.
If you are interrupted while sewing
and must leave the machine unattended, just turn off the switch and the machine cannot be started accidentally.

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the
pressure on the presser foot. (See above).
To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is
obtained.

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches,
or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear
on the fabric, reduce the pressure.
Fig. 2

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure. Increase
pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.

The sewing light is located inside the
face cover plate as shown. To replace
the bulb, turn light off, and swing the
face cover plate open. Push up on the
bulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise.
Remove bulb from socket. Push in
new bulb and turn counter-clockwise.

ACCESSORIES
NEEDLES

MULTI PURPOSE NEEDLE
PLATE

Fig.

(Flat-bedtype)

This multi purpose needle plate provides a small round hole for straight
stitching and a wide oval hole for zig
zag and decorative stitching.

CHANGING MULTI
NEEDLE PLATE

Fig. 1

Never use a bent needle or one with a
blunt point.

PURPOSE

Fig. 1. shows you the exact length of
your needle. Be sure you neve¢ use
one in your machine that is not this
exact length.

1. Raise needle to its highest position
and raise presser foot.
2. Open hand hole cover plate.
Fig. 2

Use KENMORE needles. The size of
the needle should conform with the
size of the thread and be_ should be
suitable to the fabric (See next page).

You will find among your accessories
"Q NEEDLES,." with blue shanks.
These are special needles to be used
when sewing certain knits and certain
.difficult synthetic fabrics.
If you experience skipped stitches in any of
your sewing, use "O NEEDLE,." .

3. Remove multi purpose needle plate
by placing thumb under edge of
plate and lifting it up and out.
4. Reverse and reposition the needle
plate as shown.
5. Lock it into place by fixing hand
hole cover plate in position.

PLACEMENT
CAUTION
Fig. 3

Raise needle bar to its highest position
by turning the hand wheel toward you.
Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle with the flat side away
from you, slip the needle into the
needle bar. When it is in as far as it
will go, tighten the needle clamp screw
with a screwdriver.

DO NOT BEND multi purpose needle
plate when you reverse the plate.

SEAM

GUIDES
Flat '_'_"

Seam guides are printed on either side
of the needle plate to aid you in guiding
your fabric.

side L_
away g
from -yOU.

The cornering guides are convenient
when turning a square corner 5/8"
from the fabric edge.
See next
section of this book for directions.

OF NEEDLE

I
If you have a double needle for decorative stitching, it is inserted in the same
manner as the single needle.

NEEDLE, THREAD

THREAD

AND FABRIC

SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton Whip
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Synthetic
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Synthetic
Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercerized Heavy Duty
Polyester Synthetic
Silk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Synthetic
Silk A
Silk Buttonhole Twist
Polyester Synthetic
50 Mercerized Cotton

PRESSER FEET

CHART

NEEDLE
SIZE

9 orll

To change the various presser feet,
raise the presser bar to its highest
position by lifting the presser foot
lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb
screw, choose the proper foot, insert
from the front.
Tighten the screw using the large
screw driver to make certain the foot
is secure.

FABRIC
Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity,
Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys,
Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe,
Taffetta, Voile, Organdy
Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton
Blends, Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique, Seersucker,
Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings,
Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

14 or 16

Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy,
Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool
Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets,
Leather

Heavy Weight: Coatings,
Upholstery, Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas

16, 18 or
"O NEEDLE",,

Decorative Top-stitching

"Q SET",.
"Q NEEDLE",.
and
"a FOOT",. )

Synthetic Knits and Stretch Fabrics:
Polyester Double Knits, Nylon
Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry,
Spandex, Cire Tricot

To aid you in the placement of heavy
fabrics under the presserfoot, the lever
can raise the foot beyond the normal
"'up" position. This is also an aid in
changing your presser feet.

on all

You have been given a variety of presser feet:
A. Metal Zigzag Foot
B. Metal Satin Stitch Foot for decorative stitching
C. Straight Stitch Foot
D. Zipper Foot
E. "O FOOT,="

,
BUTTONHOLE
You
your

ATTACHMENT

will find the following
Attachment
Box:

parts

Starting

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine
and with the
accessories provided for the machine,
you are ready to start to sew with your
in

new Kenmore sewing machine.
time you sit down to sew:

1. Cover Plate with pinion gear in the
center.
J_

2. Guide Plate with Guide Pin that
fits in guide pin hole on machine
bed just behind the needle plate,
and with Template Holder.

Desired size of buttonhole

habits

to follow

each

Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric
should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch
and tension suitable to your fabric.

Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the
material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed
on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple
seam.

Run the machine at slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the
foot control, the faster the machine will sew.

Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.

6. Always finish

Fig. 3

are some good

Fig. 2
3. A set of 2 templates is furnished
with
each
attachment.
Each
template is marked showing the
type and length of each buttonhole.

Below

Test the needle - it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point.
It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not
be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics
made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than
fabrics made of natural fibers.

Fig. 1

to Sew

sewing

each seam with the needle at its highest

point.

7. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never
pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.

is select-

' ed by sliding template.
Length
of buttonhole
appears
in
window
on top side of guide plate.

8. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.

L
r

Fig. 4

t
Details in using this attachment
are
given
in the next
section.
Follow
those directions
carefully
for perfectly
formed
buttonholes.

GARMENT

CONSTRUCTION

STITCHES
STRAIGHT

TURNING

STITCHING
Cornering

Set your machine
just as shown
illustration
in order to straight
It is important
each
following
settings.

dial

Guide

in the
stitch.

have

the

SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial --ww_--Stitch Length Control - 12 to 6
Stitch Width Control - Red Dot
Special

Stitch Variegator

To turn a square corner 5/8" from
the fabric edge, stop stitching with
the needle tip piercing the fabric,
when reaching the cornering guide
as shown.
Raise the presser foot,
turn fabric. New stitching line will
align with 5/8" seam guide on side
of needle plate. Lower the presser foot
and begin stitching in new direction.

ZIGZAG

- Red Dot

oVo

Use straight stitch foot and straight stitch
hole on multi purpose needle plate.

A SQUARE CORNER

STITCHING

SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - _]-'-----Stitch Length Control
- Any number
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Special

You will find in garment construction that you are doing two
sewing - temporary and permanent.

Stitch

Modifier

- Red Dot

Use zig zag presser foot and zig zag hole on
multi purpose
needle plate.

types of

This type of stitching greatly expands
the use of your machine. This is the
feature that enables you to overcast
seams, blind hem, applique, buttonhole, monogram, and make all the
pretty embroidery designs by machine.
Simply use the settings indicated in
the illustration for the simple zigzag.
Follow directions given in the following pages for more specific uses.

1. Temporary stitching - Usually the longest stitch possible and often done
on a single layer of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are:
Basting
Stay stitching
Guide line marking
2. Permanent stitching - This is the actual stitching that holds the garment
together. Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment
and therefore must be good looking.

OVERCASTING
The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-12 stitches
per inch. This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.
Fig. 1

You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics,
layers of fabric and thicker seams. Some of these seams are:

multiple

Common two layer seams
Curved two layer seams
Top stitched three layer seams
Top stitched four layer seams
When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness,
sew slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this
area.

Fig. 2

This is one of the more frequently used
zigzag stitches in garment construction.
You may want to overcast
along the raw edge of each seam
allowance or fold the raw edge towa[d
the garment and stitch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched.
Stitch

so the needle

pierces

the fabric

just short of the outside edge.
worn edges of older garments
overcast

to prevent

further

Raw or
can be

raveling.

CHAIN

STITCHING

START

Your machine will make a special
temporary type stitch-a chain stitch.
The chain stitch is made by the upper
thread only. The appearance of the
stitch from the top of fabric is almost
the same as regular straight stitch. Just
pull on the thread end, you can remove
thread easily.

Before you sew with chain stitch on
your fabric, test on a scrap of fabric
you plan to use. Upper thread tension
should be slightly tighter than for
regular straight stitching. Follow next
procedure for starting to sew.
Fig. 1

Stitch

Length

Stitch

Width

Special

3. Hold the end of the thread by left
hand. Turn hand wheel forward
until the needle just pierces the
fabric. (Fig. 1)

Use

straight
chain

- _--_=_-around

Control

Stitch

and

Dial
Control

- Red

Variegator
stitch

st=tch

foot,
needle

10
Dot

- Red
chain

4. Lower the presser foot.
Dot
stitch

adapter

Fig. 2

plate.

ADJUSTING
MACHINE
CHAIN
STITCHING

FOR

REMOVING THE FABRIC
FROM MACHINE

Remove hand hole cover plate.

3. Remove multi purpose needle plate,
bobbin and bobbin case from
shuttle.

5. Continue to turn hand wheel by
right hand until a few stitches have
been made.
6. Start the machine and stitch to end
of seam, and stop the machine. Do
not sew beyond the end of fabric.

Be sure the needle is at its highest
position by turning handwheel.

1. Needle bar is at its highest position.
2. Place your fabric under presser foot.

SETTINGS
Special

TO SEW

Rg. 3

1. Hold end of stitch with left hand,
and turn hand wheel away from you
until the take up lever is at its
highest position. At this point the
last stitch isreleased by the adapter.

Insert chain stitch adapter onto the
shuttle center pin. Be sure the
adapter clicks into place when you
fit it onto shuttle.

2. Remove your fabric gently with
fingers holding end of stitching.
(Fig. 2)

Place the black chain stitch plate
onto the needle plate and replace
hand hole cover plate.

3. Holding the last stitch and material
between your thumb and finger,
cut the thread and pull thread to
the Underside. This will lock the
last stitch. See illustration (Fig. 3).

Fig. 4

REMOVING THE THREAD

Fig. 5

1. To remove the stitching quickly,
the thread from last stitch must be
on top. Simply pull the thread and
all the stitching unravels. (Fig. 4,
Fig. 5)

STRETCH

STITCHING

The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics. These
are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.

RICK-RACK
STITCHING

STRETCH

SETTINGS

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Straight Stretch
Rick- Rack Stretch
Smocking Stretch
Overedge stretch
Feather stretch
Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch

Special Stitch Dial - _l_l=.--Stitch Length Control
- 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Special Stitch Variegator White
Metal Cam - White Zone
Use "Q FOOT.,."
purpose

and Green

Dots

and zig zag hole on multi

needle plate.

For optimum sewing of stretch fabrics, use "'OFOOT,." with gold shank
and "'QNi-;I-'I)L__;,,"with blue shank.

SMOCKING
STRAIGHT STRETCH
STITCHING

SETTINGS

Step 1. Make a straight line of gathers across
the fabric that you wish to smock.
Step 2. Special Stitch Dial - _,_-L'-_...

Special Stitch Dial - w_;_----_
Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control -Red Dot
Special
Metal

Stitch Variegator
White

and Green Dots

Cam - White Zone

Use straight stitch presser foot and Straight
stitch hole on multi purpose needle plate.

STRETCH

Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - 4
Special Stitch Variegator White and Green Dots
Metal Cam - White Zone
Use "Q FOOT-.i" and zig zag hole on multi
purpose needle plate.

This stitch enables you to press open
your seams as with any straight stitched seam. The seam will stretch with
fabric without breaking the thread.

With a narrow strip of fabric directly
under the line of gathering, stitch over
the gathers. The design will be a series
of small diamonds. Make the design
more interesting by using two different
colors of thread and the double needle.

This is also a good stitch to use on
curved seams that will receive a great
deal of strain when .worn, such as in
children's shorts and slacks as well as
adult sport clothes.

When smocking a garment, the stitching should be done before the piece is
sewn into the garment.

o oVo

SERGING OR PINE LEAF
STRETCH STITCHING

OVEREDGE
STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - _////
Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - 4

Special Stitch Dial - ,,,=zuz
Metal Cam - White Zone

Special Stitch Variegator White
Metal Cam - Green Zone
Use "Q FOOT,."
purpose

STRETCH

Other settings are exactly same as Pine
Leaf Stitching.

end Green Dots

This is the same type of stitch used by
the garment industry in making sportswear. It is used for seams nf 3/8"' to
1/4". The seam is formed and finished
in one operation, it must be used when
you are making swimwear, ski pants
and other garments that require stretch.

end zig zag hole on multi

needle plate.

The serging or pine leaf stretch stitch is
equally useful with woven and knitted
fabrics. This stitch can be used in
making elastic swimwear, as well
as overcasting a neat edge on the
seams.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge.
Raw or worn edges of older garments
can be overedge stitched to prevent
further raveling.

FEATHER STRETCH
STITCHING
SETTINGS

Fig. 1

Special Stitch Dial - _,"."¢,_':'_':
Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - 4
Special Stitch
Metal

Variegator White
Cam - Green Zone

and Green Dots

Use "Q FOOT,."

and zig zag hole on multi

purpose

plate.

needle

This is a good stitch to use to attach
stretch laces or to appligue on girdles.

SPECIAL FINISHING STITCHES

l
BUTTONHOLE

After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many
finishing touches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the
Kenmore has been designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be
done by hand.

Guide pin
hole

SETTINGS

Pinion

gear
Special

Stitch

Stitch Width
Feed Dogs-

SATIN

MAKING

STITCHING

Dial
Control
Down

- ww_----_- 1 to 11/_

Use satin stitch foot and zig zag hole on
multi purpose needle plate.

SETTINGS

1. Raise needle to its highest point
and raise presser foot.
Remove
regular cover plate and replace with
buttonhole cover plate.

Special Stitch Dial - _-'-_'-Stitch Length Control - Red Zone
Stitch Width Control - Any Number t to 4
Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Use satin stitch foot and zig zag hole
multi purpose needle plate.

2. Screw guide pin into the guide pin
hole on the machine bed directly
behind the needle plate.

on
Window

older

Template

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. This is an attractive
stitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole making. It is also
the stitch that is used with the many decorative pattern cams for embroidery
d_ign work.
Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the
tension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looser
the tension should be.
If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue
paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will
be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of
the fabric.
As with all special stitches, it is best to make a sample design on your fabric
before starting the design on the garment.

Advance

Knob

3. Insert a template into the slot of
template holder by lifting the
bottom portion of the Template
Holder.
Select the proper size
buttonhole by tu[ning the Template
Advance Knob.
4. Pull guide plate all the way forward
so that guide pin is at S. This will
enable you to start at one end of
the buttonhole. Drop guide plate
into place over gear on cover plate.
5. Pick up bobbin thread through
guide plate by turning hand wheel
and drawing thread to back. Place
fabric between presser foot and
guide plate.
Lower presser foot
and start sewing.
Always make a practice buttonhole
on a scrap of fabric you plan to use.
Try the buttonhole with the button you
will use.
Use an interfacing
of fabric
- tissue
and torn

away

between
the layers
paper can be used

after the stitching.

For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your
top tension slightly and use a wider
stitch width setting.

APPLIQUEING

Fig. 2 Hem folded back

Fold hem back against right side of
garment with basted raw edge extending about 1/8" to right of garment
fold.

Fig. 3 Stitching along fold with blind
stitch.

Place garment under presser foot so
that straight stitches will follow basting
or raw edge, and the blind (zigzag)
stitch just catches the fold of the hem.
(Fig. 3)
Or

SETTINGS
Same as with

Satin

Stitching.

Select an applique design to be applied
to your garment and baste it in place.
Satin stitch around the raw edge of
the applique completely covering the
edge. You may want to do this with
a contrasting color of thread or self
color. By using one of the decorative
cams, you may sew around the applique giving it an interesting appearance.

If you have an edgestitcher, place the
fold of the hem in the two left slots of
the attachment for ease in guiding your
sewing.

BLIND HEMMING
SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - 2 to 3
Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Use zig zag foot or edgestitcher and zig zag
hole on multi purpose needle plate.

Fig. 1 Raw edge fold

Fig. 4 Finished hem on right side of
garment.

Remove basting and press hem. Right
side of garment will show only the
blind stitches as in Fig. 4.

After you have turned up the hem
width desired, turn raw edge over
1/2" and stitch this fold with a basting
stitch. (Fig. 1), Press.

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4. CARING FOR THE MACHINE

CLEANING

AND

OILING

Fig. 1 Cleaning the feed dogs with a
brush.

Fig. 1

To insure the best possible operation
of your machine, it is necessary to
keep the essential parts" clean at all
times. Using a small brush, remove
the lint that accumulates in the shuttle
area and around the feed dogs.

evereve

Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle

Assembly

Clean the Shuttle Area:

1. This area must be kept free of dust,
lint and occasional tangled thread.
Raise the needle bar to its highest
point and remove the bobbin case.

Shuttle Assembly

Push levers of shuttle race aside
and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out.

3. Clean the shuttle race with
brush.

small

Put a drop of oil on the center pin
of the shuttle and shuttle race.
(see arrows)

Shuttle Race Cover

To Replace Shuttle Assembly:
1. Position shuttle race as illustrated
so that race is forming half moon
on the left side of the machine.
Shuttle

Shuttle Race

Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half
moon on the right side.
Pointed
hook will be on the bottom.

Place shuttle race cover into place
over shuttle assembly.

Fig. 2

OILING

UNDER ARM

COVER PLATE

Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head.
To remove cover plate lift cover.

OILING

UNDERSIDE

Tilt machinehead backto oil pointsindicatedon undersideof machine.

OILING

IN FACE COVER

PLATE

Swing hinged face cover plate
open and oil points indicated in
illustration,

PARTS

LIST

PARTS

LIST

All parts listed here may be ordered through your nearest Sears or Simpsons Sears retail store, catalog sales office or mail order house.
When ordering these parts, please be sure to mention the following references:
1. Model & serial numbers of machine shown on the nomenclature
plate. See page 2.
2. Parts number(s) and description(s) here.
When ordering by mail, prices will be furnished on request, or parts will be
shipped at prevailing prices and you will be billed accordingly.

13
12

REF.
No.

PART
No.

DESCRIPTIONS

1
2
3

28775
28776
31982

Shuffle
Chainstitch adapter
Chainstitch needle plate
(Model 17570)
Chainstitch needle plate
(Model 17571, 17572)
Bobbinwinder tension disc
Bobbin case
Light bulb
Double needles
No. 9 single needles
No. 11single nsedles
No. 14 single needles
No. 16 single needles
No. 18 single needles
"O NEEDLES*,.
Largescrew driver
Sm_l screw d,k,
er
Nylooolsc
Thread spool pin
Pattern disc No. 4
Pattem disc No. 5
Pattern disc No. 7
Pattern disc No. 8
Pattern disc No. 9
Pattern disc No. 10
Pattern disc No. 11
Pattern disc No. 12
Pattern disc No. 18
Pattern disc No. 19
Pattern disc No. 22
Pattern disc No. 23
Pattern disc No. 24
Pattern disc No. 30
Needle clamp
Bobbinwinder rubber ring
Large motor belt
Small motor belt
Standard zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot
Straight stitch foot
Zipper foot

36211
14

9
lO
11
12
13

20
21

4
5
6
7
8

14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21

1222
6510
6797
*6745
*6740
"6741
*6742
*6743
*6744
*6746
3015
3016
2273
8286
26844
26845
26847
26848
26849
2685O
26851
26852
26858
26859
26862
26863
26864
28772
26929
1939
289O8
3OO83
9363
35231
6873
6767

REF
No. '

PART
No.

DESCRIPTIONS

6782

"Q FOOT",.

6882

"O SET",.

6864

Needle threader

6861

Buttonhole

opener

35(]_4

Buttonhole

cover p_te

(Model
36214

17570)

Buttonhole
(Model

cover plate

17571,

175"72)

35286

Buttonhole

guide plate

35346

Buttonhole

template

(No.

35347

Buttonhole

template

(No. 2)

*6862

;

Bobbin box with

*6889

Oil and lint brush

36267

*Tbese

iterns are oot fumishod

10 bobbins

Metal cam

machine, but may be orden_l
instructions above,

with the
per

SEWING

MACHINE

Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, should a
need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any
Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. or
Simpsons-Sears Limited Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent
facts when you call or visit°
The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on
your nomenclature plate on the front side of bedptate of your
Sewing Machine. See Section 1, Page 2 for location.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR
FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
"MODEL

NUMBER

"NAME

PARTS,

OF ITEM

ALWAYS

"PART

GIVE

THE

DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be
electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution
Center for handling,

SEARS,

ROEBUCK

AND

COo, Chicago,

IL 60684 U.S.A.

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Kenmore 15817570 User Manual SEWING MACHINE HEAD Manuals And Guides L1005341

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