Kenmore 3851249380 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0802219

KENMORE Electronic Sewing Manual L0802219 KENMORE Electronic Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Electronic Sewing installation guides

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Kenmor'e
SEWING

OWNER'S

MACHINE

12493

MA

P/N

648800071

Sears, Roebuck

and Co.

Dear Homemaker:
You have just invested in a very finezigzag sewing machine.
Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a
moment and carefully read this booklet which contains
instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension
adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain
the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense
for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care.of your machine is always
available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember,
if you have questions about your machine, always mention the
model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore

Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model
number and serial number of this appliance.
The model number and serial number are
located on the nomenclature plate, as identified
on Page 2 of this booklet.
Model No.385.
Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.

....
i!,::!i_i!!!i_i:,

TABLE OF CONTENTS
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Machine identification
....................
Accessories ...........................
Setting spool pins .......................
Installing extension table ..................
Pressure regulator, Presser foot lever ...........
Presser feet, Speed control plug ..............
Light and power switch, Sewing light ..........
Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate .......
Needle, thread and fabric chart ..............
Needles, Placement of needle ...............
Winding the bobbin ......................
Threading the bobbin case .................
Threading top thread...
..................
Picking up bobbin thread ..................
Adjusting top thread tensions ...............
Adjusting bobbin tensions
.................
STARTING
TO SEW .....................
SIMPLE

2
4
5
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
16
17

SEWING

Straight stitching
.......................
Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner
Zigzag stitching
........................
Checking tensions, Overcasting,
Interfacing darts
STRETCH AND UTILITY
STITCH SEWING
Stretch stitching ........................
Adjusting stretch stitch balance ..............
Straight stretch stitching
..................
Rick-rack stretch stitching
.................
Smocking stretch stitching
.................
Overcast stretch stitching
..................
Serging or pine leaf stretch stitching ...........
Buttonhole
making ......................
Adjusting buttonhole
stitch balance ...........
Shell stitching
.........................
Blind hemming .........................
Satin stitching, Appliqueing
................
Zipper application
......................
Mending, Darning .......................
Button sewing, Bar tacking .................
Free-arm sewing ........................
CHECKING PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS ......

22
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
30
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
36

CARING FOR THE MACHINE
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle
..............
Oiling under arm cover plate ................
Oiling underside ........................
Oiling in face cover plate ..................
Parts list ........
.....................
USING PORTABLE
CASE OR CABINET

39
40
41
42
44
45

.......

18
20

_KNOWING
bIACIdlNE

YOUR SEWING MACHINE

L_:

IDENTIFICATION

Prbssure

Regulator

Take-up

Lever

Upper

Thread

Bobbin

Guides

Winder

\

Face Cover

Extension

Plate

Arm

Cover

Plate

Light

and Power

Switch

Table

Buttonhole

Shuttle

Support

Stitch

Adjustor

Cover
Thread

Guide

Needle
Screw

Clamp

Leg

Needle
Thread

Thread

Spool

Pins

Presser

Foot

Guide

Thumb

Screw
Presser

Hand

Wheel

Clutch

Knob
"_.

Presser

-__Free

Electric

Cord

Receptacle

_/

Foot

Arm

\
\

Nomenclature

Plate
d

Foot

Lever

Plate

2,

Stitch

Selector

3.

4,
1.

Top

Thread

Tension

Stitch

Length

Reverse

Stitch

Control

Control

Control

3

ACCESSORI

ES
Accessory

box
Buttonhole

Small

screw

driver

Large

screw

driver

opener

Bobbin

Needle

set

\

Darning

plate

Thread

spool

pin

\

/

Satin
Buttonhole

guide

Nylon

stitch

/

/

Foot

control

Owner's

\

/

Zipper

foot

foot

\

disc

manual

foot

SETTING

SPOOL

PINS

Spool Pins are packed in accessory box.
Screw thread
Position

spool pins in place securely with a screw driver.

nylon discs as shown in illustration.

NSTALLING

EXTENSION

TABLE

For all flat-bed sewing use the extension table provided with the machine. To install the
extension table, simply slide the table along the free arm until the two Pins (A) and (B)
enter fitting holes in the machine.
Lower the support

leg.

To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular
the machine by pulling it to the left.

material,

remove the extension

table from

5

PRESSURE

REGULATOR

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator.
presser foot. (See above).

This will

release the pressure on the

To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained.
Insufficient
pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty
in guiding the fabric.
If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the
pressure.
When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric,
when sewing lighter weight fabrics.

reduce the pressure.

PRESSER

FOOT

Increase pressure

LEVER

To aid you in the placement of heavy
fabrics under the presser foot, the lever
can raise foot beyond the normal "up"
position.
This is also an aid in changing
your presser feet,

PRESSER

FEET

To change the various presser feet, raise
the presser bar to its highest position by
lifting the presser foot lever. Loosen the
presser foot thumb
screw, choose the
proper foot,
insert from the bottom.
Tighten the screw using the large screw
driver to make certain the foot is secure.

SPEED

CONTROL

PLUG

Push the speed control
prong connector.

plug onto

Plug machine cord
volt wall outlet.

any 110 _

into

three
120

7

LIGHT AND POWER SWITCH
Turn on power
power switch.

by

pushing

light

and

Important safety feature
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power
switch is turned on. Turning
on the power automatically
illuminates
the whole stitching area. If you're interrupted or stop sewing, turn off light/
power switch.

SL_#tklG

LiGH

The sewing light is located in the face
cover as shown.
To replace the bulb,
turn the light off and open the face
cover,
Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb
counter-clockwise
and remove it
from the socket.
Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise.
NOTE:
First, unplug the machine prior to removing and replacing the bulb. Be awar,e
that the light bulb may be warm.

8

FOOTCONTROL
Step on this control to start to sew. The
harder you press on the control,
the
faster the machine will sew. Slow down
by reducing foot pressure on the control.
You may want to practice your speed at
different
levels when you first use the
machine.

SEAM

_d[DES
_"

Seam guides are printed on either side of
the needle plate to aid you in guiding
your fabric.
THE GUIDE
LINE EXTENDING
ALONG THE RIGHT SIDE
OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS THE "ALL
IMPORTANT"
5/8" SEAM LINE.

Coiner ng Gu de

The cornering guides are convenient when
turning
a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge. See next section of this book
for directions.

DARN!NG

PLATE

There are a few times when you want to
control the feeding of the fabric yourself.
Raise needle to its highest position
and
raise presser foot,
Place darning plate
over needle plate aligning two pins of
darning plate with holes of needle plate.
Your may then determine the movement
of the fabric yourself.
See page 35 for
button sewing application.

9

NEEDLE_THREADAND

FABRIC

CHART

12 stitches
per inch

10 to 12 stitches
per inch

8 to 10 stitches
per inch

8 stitches
oer inch

6 stitches
per inch

10 for

Regular
or
6 for Stretch
Stitches

10

NEEDLES
Use KENMORE needles, The size of the
needle should conform with the size of
the thread and both should suit the
fabric.
Kenmore needles are color-coded
by size for your convenience
(See chart
on facing page).
Never use a bent
dull point.

needle or one with

a

The exact length of your needle is shown
at left.
Be sure you never use one in
your
machine
that
is not this exact
length.
You will find among your accessories a
Q NEEDLEr"with
blue shank.This special
needle is to be used when sewing knits
and certain difficult
synthetic fabrics.
If
you experience skipped stitches in any of
your
sewing,
use Q NEEDLE
and
Q FOOT'" *
TM

* Available
catalog.

at most Sears retail stores and

PLACEMENT

OF NEEDtE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by
turnir_g
the hand wheel toward
you.
Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding
the needle with the flat side away from
you, slip the needle into the needle bar.
When it is in as far as it will go, tighten
the needle clamp screw with small screwdriver provided in the accessory box.

11

WINDING

THE

1. Release clutch
toward you.
2. Draw
thread
bobbin winder

BOBBIN

by turning

clutch knob

from
spool
through
tension disc as shown.

3. Pull end of thread
bobbin as shown.

through

hole

in

4. Place bobbin
onto
bobbin
winder
shaft with end of thread coming from
the top of the bobbin.
Push bobbin

12

winder shaft to the right until it clicks.
Holding
onto
end of thread,
start
machine.
When bobbin
is slightly
filled, snip off end of thread.
5, Wind
thread
until
winder
Remove bobbitl.
Clip thread.
6. Tighten

clutch

knob.

stops.

1. Remove

the extension

table

from

the

machine
by pulling
it to the left.
Open the shuttle
cover by pulling
down the embossed part on the left
side of the cover.
2. Raise needle to its highest position
rotating hand wheel toward you.

by

3. To remove bobbin case from shuttle,
pull open latch of bobbin case.
Pull bobbin

case straight

4. Insert bobbin into bobbin case making
sure thread is coming from bobbin as
shown.
5. Pull thread
shown.

through

slot

of

case as

Pull thread under tension spring.
6. Holding latch open, position case into
shuttle, and release latch. Case should
lock into place when latch is released.

out of shuttle.

13

THREADING

TOP THREAD

'I

Place spool on spool
thread coming
from
spool.

pin as shown, with
the back of the

Draw thread through top thread guides.
Holding spool stationary
with right hand,
pull the end of the thread between the
tension discs as shown above (_.
Pull the end of the thread taut with left
hand. This will pull the spring wire up
and past the end of the hook. The thread
will then slip into the hook when the
spring is released as in (_ .

14

"_'f

Release spool
of thread
and thread
machine through take-up lever
(_
and
thread guide (6) as shown above. Thread
then passes through guides (_ and (_.
Thread needle _
from front to rear.

-,ING

bi :_ BOBBIN

THREAD

1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle
thread loosely in left hand and rotate
handwheel toward you one complete
turn.

2. Bring bobbin
upper thread.

3. Pull

both

thread

threads

up by

under

back of the presser foot,
4 inches of thread clear.

pulling

and to

the

leaving 3 to

If you cannot pick up bottom thread by
following
steps given above, then check:
1. Is needle threaded from front to back?
2. Is thread tangled around needle?
3. Is there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming
from the bobbin case?
4. Is thread from bobbin case tangled?

15

ADJUSTING
TENSIONS

TOP THREAD

Probably the most important
control on
your machine is this one that regulates
your top thread tension.
There are many reasons for having to
reset your tension.
The best tension for
one fabric may not be correct for another.
The required tension depends upon the
stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the
fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being
se,wn, as well as the type of stitch you are
making.

i!ilii
!

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap
of the fabric you are using before starting
to make a garment. Use the straight stitch
function as shown at the right.

ADJUSTING
TENSIOH_

BOBBIN

Bobbin
tension
requires adjusting
less
frequently
than the upper thread tension.
If the stitch is satisfactory
but the seam
is puckered, it may be necessary to loosen
the tension on both the top and bottom
threads. Be sure to balance them.
When adjusting the tension on the bobbin
case, make slight adjustments
with
a
screw driver.

16

:

..........

........... !!if{( _

...........

.... ART N(

TO SEW

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories
provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing
machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
1. Test the needle it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be
the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your
needle frequently.
Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the
needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been
drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing
of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine
double thickness.
your fabric.

stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should
Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable

be
to

4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left
of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on
the needle plate when making a simple seam.
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control,
the faster the machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning

and end of the seam.

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle.
fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning

the hand wheel manually,

always turn

it toward

Never pull or hold the

you.

17

SIMPLE SEWING
STRAIGHT

...........

STITCHI IC

Top thread tension
control
3 to 6

Stitch selector

_'

Stitch length control
12 to6

Presser foot

v

You will find in garment
and permanent.

construction

that you are doing two types of sewing-temporary

1. Temporary stitching-Usually
the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer
of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are:
Basting
Stay stitching
Guide line marking
2. Permanent stitching.
This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together. Much
of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good
looking.
The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics
the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.
You must remember to lengthen the stitch
and thicker seams. Some of these seams are:
Common two layer seams
Curved two layer seams
Top stitched three layer seams
Top stitched four layer seams

for

is 10-12 stitches

heavier fabrics,

When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable
carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area.

18

per inch. This is in

multiple

thickness,

layers of fabric

sew slowly

and

FASTENING

A SEAM

Be sure both threads are drawn
under the presser foot.
Lower
into fabric about 1/2 inch from
ning of seam.
Turn thereverse
control
clockwise
and stitch in

back
needle
beginstitch
reverse

until needle reaches beginning
of seam.
Release control and complete seam.
When you reach the end, turn the control clockwise
and sew back over 1/2
inch of completed seam.

TURNING

i

;

}i

A SQUARE

CORNER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle
tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the
cornering
guide as shown.
Raise the
presser fopt, turn fabric.
New stitching
line will align with 5/8" seam guide on
side of needle plate.
Lower the presser
foot and begin stitching in new direction.

19

ZIGZAG

Top

STITCHING

thread

tension

control 0 to 4

Stitch selector

/
Stitch length control
24 to 6

Presser foot

This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine.
This is the feature that
enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons.
Using the range of widths as
indicated on the central dial, you can sew any width you desire. Since this is a range, you
may set the dial between the illustrated widths.
The following
potential.

20

pages will

give you

directions

for utilizing

your

machine

to its greatest

CHECKING

TENSIONS

The easiest way to check tensions is to
sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric
you will be using.

UNDESIRABLE
•.... ::::;::';_::,.-;_

DESIRABLE
;i::::::;:;,':t:;::;..

Use the

....".....
.....
........
"" "....

i i: !iii

needle.
different
colors of thread on
the bobbinUseand
upper spool.

"'_::;:"":'°..........
"'"'"'"
........ " " ...........

"'°i ..............

Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches.
The bobbin thread should not show on
the top of the fabric.

"':-'_'_:'
":'::::-':
1,:;::::o
.-':::::,:
°.... ' .... ""::":;"

....................

Adjust
the top tension if necessary to
achieve the stitch formation
mentioned
above.

._'_",:':;_.,

appropriate

type

of thread

and

._. ....
ii;:;:':

_: .......

": ":"::::

"..... ,_;

TOP SIDE OF FABRIC

OVERCASTING

Fig.

1

This is one of the more frequently
used
zigzag stitches in garment construction.
You may want to overcast along the raw
edge of each seam allowance or fold the
raw edge toward the garment and stitch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched.

Fig. 2

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge. Raw or
worn
edges of older garments can be
overcast to prevent further raveling.

INTERFACING

/

I
t
/
I I

/

DARTS

To reduce bulk of interfacing
darts, cut
interfacing
down center between
dart
lines.
Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines.
Zigzag stitch along marking
line
from point to wide end of dart.
Trim
'both raw edges close to stitching.

21

STRETCH AND UTILITY STITCH SEWING
STRETCH

.......

STITCHING

The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and.knit
stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.

fabrics.

These are special

1. Straight Stretch
2. Rickrack Stretch
3. Overcast Stretch

/\/
\/\

/\/
\/\

/\/

4. Smocking Stretch
5. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch

\/\

/\/
\/\

/\/
\/\
./\/

@ @ ®@

®
ADJUSTING
STRETCH
STITCH BALANCE
In stretch
stitch
sewing, Stitch Length
Control
should be in the detent position
between S and L ( • position) for most
materials.
Depending upon the type of
fabric used, you may need to adjust this
control
to match forward
stitches of
stretch
sewing
with
reverse
motion
stitches.
To shorten stretch stitches, turn
the control
slightly
toward
"S".
To
lengthen, turn toward "L".

R ECO _/!_/1E N D A,T ION
1. It is recommended
that
the "Q"
needle and "Q"
foot
be used for
sewing knits and synthetic fabrics.
2. It may be
with very
is usually
away from

22

necessary to use a backing
soft fabrics.
Tissue paper
available.
It can be torn
seam after sewing.

STRAIGHT
STITCHING

STRETCI4

Top thread tension
control 3 to 6

Presser foot

Stitch selector

Stitch

length

control

Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric
and other fabrics that stretch.
Sew as
you
do
with
regular
straight
stitch
seaming. The seam may be pressed open
as with any regular seam, but will stretch
if necessary.
This is also a good stitch to use on curved
seams regardless of the type of fabric.
Any seam that will receive a great deal of
strain when worn should be sewn with
the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts
and slacks as well as adult sports clothes.

23

OVERCAST STRETCH
5 rSTCHING

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch

Stitch

selector

length

control

This is the same type of stitch used by
the garment industry
in making sportswear.
It is used for seams of 3/8" to
1/4".
The seam is formed and finished in
one operation.
It must be used when you
are making swimwear, ski pants and other
garments that require stretch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just
short of the outside edge.
Raw or worn edges of older garments can
be overcast to prevent further raveling.

26

8ERGING

OR PINE

STRETCiI

STtt

LEAF

/

6i-_tt,_

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

Stitch

selector

/
Presser foot

Stitch

length

control

The ser_ling or pine leaf stretch stitch is
equally useful with woven and knitted
fabrics. This stitch can be used in making
elastic swimwear, as well as overcasting a
neat edge on the seams.

27

BUTTONHOLE MAKING

7Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

Stitch

/

selector

/

Presser foot

Stitch

.

length

control

Carefully mark the buttonhole
length
on your garment.
Place the fabric
with the buttonhole
marked under the
buttonhole
foot.
Pull the guide foot
(A) all the way forward
so that the
index mark (B) is aligned with the
graduation
(C), with thread to rear.
(Reproduction
of the identical
size
buttonholes
is facilitated
with the aid
of the graduations on the left side of
the buttonhole
guide foot.
These graduations are 1/5" apart. Graduations
act as reference mark.)

28

•

.

."

.

Set stitch selector at
J_
forward
until you approach

Stitch
"the bot-

tom marking of the buttonhole.
Stop
sewing at the right stitch and raise the
needle to its highest
position
by
turning
hand-wheel
toward
you
manually.

,

Set stitch selector at _
and bartack
5 or 6 stitches at the bottom mark of
the buttonhole.
Stop sewing at the
left stitch.
Raise needle to its highest
position by turning handwheel toward
you.

4. Set stitch selector at _
and sew the
other side of the buttonhole
until
you approach the top marking of the
buttonhole.
Stop sewing at the left
stitch.
Raise the needle to its highest
position.

5. Set stitch selector at
_
again and
bartack 5 or 6 stitches to finish the
buttonhole,

Always make a practice buttonhole
hole with the button you will use.

on a scrap of fabric

you plan to use. Try the button-

Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissue paper or
regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used.
For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly.

29

ADJUSTING
BUTTONHOLE
STITCH BALANCE

If the stitching
on both sides of the
buttonhole
does not
have the same
density, adjust-by turning the adjuster.

Using a screw
driver,
make a slight
adjustment to left (+) increase the density
of the left side; turn to the right (-) to
increase the density
of the right side.
Both sides should be similar in appearance.

After sewing buttonholes,
return adjuster
to original
position
as shown in illus" tration at left.

SHELL

STITCHING

AL_j__/__iA
L

SETTINGS
StitchSelector ........

_

StitchLength Control . .. 18
Zigzag PresserFoot

When sewing this stitch, allow needle to
just clear the right edge of the fabric
when it zigzags.
NOTE:
You may need to increase your
slightly to achieve the shell affect.

3O

tension

B

INDHE!ViMING
Top

thread

control

_/--7\i-_/-

tension

0 to 4

Presser

Stitch

Stitch
Green

foot

Edgestitcher_
if available

selector

length control
Zone to 8

/

nside of

Dress
ed Edge
Fig. 1
1.

Finish
desire.
width.

edge of hem
anyway
you
Turn
up hem appropriate
(Fig. 1)

Foot

Fig. 3

3. Place garment under presser foot in
such a manner that straight stitches
will
be sewn on extended
edge.
The zigzag stitch should just catch
the fold of the garment. (Fig. 3)

Right Side of
• Finished Hem

_d

Edge
Fig. 2

2. Fold garment away from hem leaving 1/8" of hem edge extending.
(Fig. 2}

Fig. 4
4. Press both sides of the finished hem.
The right side of the garment will
show only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4)

31

SATIN

STITCHING

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

Stitch

Presser foot

Stitch

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches,
appliqueing, bar tacking or sewing on buttons.

selector

length

This is an attractive

control

stitch used for

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension
thread slightly.
The wider the stitch sewn the looser the tension.

of the top

If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or
interfacing for a well formed stitch.
Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the
bobbin thread will not be visible on the top side of the fabric.
It is best to practice

a sample design on a fabric scrap before sewing design on garment.

APPL!QUEtNG
SETTINGS
Same as with Satin Stitching
Select an applique
design to be applied
to your garment and baste it in place,
Satin stitch around the raw edge of the
applique
completely
covering the edge.
You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color.

32

7fPPER APP{, fCi:,i i()i'_,
SETTINGS
t m

Stitch Selector ........
Stitch Length Control
Zipper Foot.

,,,
. . . 12

REGU!

)er foot

_R ZIPPER

mg
screw

Thumb

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing
through the center hole of the foot and
one groove of the foot is riding on the
teeth of the zipper.
See Fig. 2. Follow
the zipper manufacturer's
instructions.

_

screw
Needle
(right)

After
zipper has been inserted, finish
sewing seam by shifting
foot to side
position sewing through side notch.

entr,,

Fig.

1

TNVISIBLE

ZIPPER

Pin or baste zipper to fabric and place
the work in position
under the presser
foot.
Loosen the zipper foot adjusting
screw to set the foot on the left side of
the needle, and sew the left side zipper
as shown.
(Fig. 1) To sew the rightside zipper, loosen the screw and bring
the foot to the right side of the needle.

CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording
for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a
strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in
Fig. 3.
NOTE:
Use "Low
Bar Sewing Machine
ZIPPER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible zipper"
and "cording",
which can be obtained at
any stores of Sears Roebuck and Co.

33

MENDING

". A,^, A
V

V

V

V

A

V

/

SETTINGS
Stitch

Selector

........

Stitch Length Control
Zigzag Presser Foot

........
....

_i
. . .

Green Zone
to 24

iii!iiii!iii!iiii!ii!i
!¸¸ , i!!i!i! i!iiii!i!i!iill
i iiiiii!iii To

repair a straight or three-cornered
tear, position the tear under the needle
in such a way that the stitching catches
both sides of the tear. When mending a
three-cornered
tear, stitch from each end
to the center. It is wel! to use a piece Of
fabric under the tear for reinforcement.

D A R N t _\:G
SETTINGS
I

Stitch Selector ............
Stitch Length Control
. . .
Presser Foot Pressure ....

III

t111

8 to 10
0

Zigzag Presser Foot
Use Darning

plate (See page 9)

Stretch fabric between embroidery
hoops
with hole centered.
Lower presser bar
and sew at a slow speed moving fabric
back and forth
with a steady rhythm to
cover darning area. When it is covered,
turn fabric 1/4 a turn and sew layer of
stitching
across first layer.
If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole
area, you may want to put a separate
piece under the hole for reinforcement.
Be sure to return pressure on presser foot
to original
adjustment
after
darning.
(See page 6)

34

BU

IQ_

Xi::W[':"

SETTINGS
Stitch Selector

........

Must be
adjusted
Use Darning plate (See page 9)
Zigzag Presser Foot
1. Align two holes of button with slot of
presser foot and lower foot to hold the
button securely.

2. Turn
hand
wheel
manually
needle point is just above button.

until

3. Adjust stitch selector so needle enters
right hole of button.
4. Turn hand wheel by hand so needle
enters second hole. The stitch selector
may need to be adjusted again. Stitch
a number of times.
NOTE:
You may find it helpful to use transparent tape to position your button
and to keep it in place during sewing.
Tear away after stitching.
5. Finish sewing with an extra two inches
of thread
remaining.
Draw these
threads to reverse side of garment and
tie.

BAR TACKING
SETTINGS
Stitch Selector

........

Stitch Length Control
Zigzag Presser Foot

_
. . .

tO

Green Zone

This stitch is similar to a very short satin
stitch and is used to reinforce
points of
strain such as corners of pockets and
straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

35

FREE-ARM

SEWING

This sewing machine can be used like
flat bed machine, but easily converts
free arm machine by removing the
tension table.
The free arm enables you to sew tubu
types of pieces more easily. Just slip t
sleeve or pants leg on the free arm
shown above.
You will find many uses for this free ar
feature such as:
1. Mend elbows
more easily.

and knees of garmer

2. Sew in sleeves more
especially
true when
garments,

easily.
sewing

This
small

3. Applique,
embroider
or hem arout
edges of cuffs or pants legs.
4. Sewing in elastic casings in skirts
pants at the waistline.

36

e it gently,
)resser foot.

needle

)r po sh_off burrs completely.
plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Do:'riot pull fabric;
guide itgently.
Choose',correct
size needle for thread
Reset needle.

and fabric,

a seam be sure to draw both:-threads
about 4 "_and holduntil
a few

under and
stitches ;'!

rmed.

is(s).
}resser foot.
ead shou

e size and

kind.

ii!_i!!_ili!!ii!

iiiii_iii!i_iii_i

_i_i_i_ _i_ii!_i_i'i
¸'_iiii

_

_

_i
¸

_ iO

_!_

_o_

_

_.

"_: No _ ..........

....... i

!iiii

38

'\RING

FOR THE MA,CHINE

: !:t_R!_R!_ FEED

DOGS AND

SEiUTTLE
Fig. 1 Cleaning
brush.

the

feed

dogs

with

a

To insure the best possible operation
of your machine, it is necessary to keep
the essential
parts clean at all times.
Using a small brush, remove the lint that
accumulates
in the shuttle
area and
around the feed dogs.
Fig.

1

Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle
To Clean the Shuttle
.

Assembly

Area:

This area must be kept free of dust,
lint
and occasional
tangled thread.
Raise the needle bar to its highest
point and remove the bobbin case.

2. Push levers of shuttle race aside and
lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out.
3. Clean
brush.

the

shuttle

race

with

small

4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of
the shuttle
and shuttle
race.
(see
arrows}

.....
i ,¸,t,o
.....
ooo
cover :

To Replace Shuttle

Assembly:

1. Position shuttle race as illustrated
so
that race is forming
half moon on the
left side of the machine.
.

Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half moon
on the right side.
Pointed hook will
be on the bottom.

3. Place shuttle race cover into place over
shuttle assembly.
4. Snap the levers into position.

39

OILING

UNDER

ARM

COVER

PLATE

Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated, in top of machine head. To remove cover
plate, loosen uptwo top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.

40

OILING

UNDERSIDE

Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers to oil points indicated on underside
of machine. To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B), (C), and (D) as shown
below.

B

D

,/
C

OILING

_N FACE COVER

Open face cover

42

PLATE

plate and oil points

in illustration.

PARTS

LIST

7

2

3

8

9

13

19

14

4

10

15

16

5

6

11

12

18

17

2O

21
22

PARTS LIST
All

parts listed

herein

WHEN ORDERING
MATION:

may be ordered

REPAIR

from

PARTS,

1. PART NUMBER
3. MODEL NUMBER

any Sears store or service

ALWAYS

GIVE

center.

THE

FOLLOWING

2. PART DESCRIPTION
4. NAME OF ITEM

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution
Center for expedited handling.
Ref.

No.

INFOR-

Part No.

transmitted

Description

1

47

Shuttle

2

6510

Bobbin

case

3

*6862

Bobbin

box with

4

1939

Bobbin

winder

5

8286

Thread

spool

6

2273

Nylon

7

6550

No.

9 Single

needles

(BRN)

6551

needles

(ORG)

6552

No. 11 Single
No. 14 Single

needles

(RED)

6553

No. 16 Single

needles

(PUR)

6554

No. 18 Single

needles

(GRN)

8
9
10
11
12

36353

Needle

687O

clamp

Buttonhole

with

guide

13
14

*6864

15

6797

16

40164

Light bulb
Motor belt

33379

Motor

Zipper

foot

Zipper

foot

Needle

threader

foot

belt

17

6830

18

41670

Large screw driver

19

41669

Small screw driver

20

*6889

Oil and lint

21

*6530

Flower

647821008

screw

Standard zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot

593401008
*6757

22

ring

disc

"Q NEEDLES--

40390

rubber
pin

*6746
648801005

10 bobbins

Buttonhole

Darnin_t

opener

brush

stitch
plate

attachment

USING PORTABLE

CASE OR CABaN.ET

A full line of sewing cabinets
is available
at your
nearest
Sears retail
store
or
through
our general catalog.
Whenever
you're
ready to sew, so is your sewing
place.
Another
option..,
buy a Carrying
Case.
. then your
Kenmore
goes anywhere, can be stored anywhere.

MEMO

MEMO

MEMO

SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore
Sewing Machine,
should
a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply
contact
any Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck
and
Co. Stores. Be sure to provide
all pertinent
facts when you
call or visit.
The model number
of your Sewing Machine will be shown on
your nomenclature
plate on the back of your Sewing Machine.
See page 2 for location.

WHEN ORDERING
REPAIR
FOLLOWING
INFORMATION:
*MODEL

NUMBER

*NAME

PARTS,

ALWAYS

OF ITEM *PART

GIVE

THE

DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked
locally,
your order will
be electronically
transmitted
to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.

SEARS, ROEBUCK

S-385

AND CO., Chicago, IL60684

Printed

in Taiwan

U.S.A.

Par:[ No. 648800071

WARRANTY
FULL

25-YEAR

WARRANTY

ON

SEWING

MACHINE

....

HEAD
For 25 years from the date of purchase,
Sears will,
charge,
repair
defects
in material
or workmanship
appear in the sewing machine head.

free of
which

FULL

EQUIP-

! i !!2 i!!i;ili]iii!i!iiiii'i!ii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
i_

¸

c_?!:,i.,_.

-

TWO

YEAR

WARRANTY

ON

ELECTRICAL

MENT OF SEWING MACHINE
For two years from the date of purchase,
Sears will, free of
charge,
repair
defects
in material
or workmanship
which
appear
in the electrical
equipment
of the sewing machine,
including
motor, wiring, switch and speed control.

_ .....
_i

FULL

_i;::_;i_::.i!:i!b;:

90-DAY

MECHANICAL

WARRANTY

ON

ALL

PARTS

AND

ADJUSTMENTS

-.--....

For 90 days from
the date of purchase,
Sears will,
charge,
replace
any parts and provide
mechanica
necessary for proper operation
of the sewing machine,
for normal maintenance.

free of
service
except

_J
E

To obtain
warranty
service described
above, SIMPLY
CONTACT
THE NEAREST
SEARS STORE OR SERVICE
CENTER
IN THE
UNITED
STATES.
This warranty
is n use in the United States.

applies

only

This warranty
gives you specific legal rights,
other rights which vary from state to state.

SEARS,

ROEBUCK

AND

CO., Dept. 698/731A,

while

and you

Sears Tower,

this

product

may also have

Chicago,

IL 60684

,_
._=

,l|l. -_

..........ii: :.......

'111,.-4_

d!ll, _

'Ill!. _

'ill,, _

'11t,._

-'llll. -_

'lll,,-'_

'!I1,. _

'llll. -'_

'!11,"_

'1lt*. @

'Ill,, @

'!tI_. €_

'll]_. -_

'llll_

Kenmor'e
SEWING

OWNER'S

MACHINE

12493

MA

P/N

648800071

Sears, Roebuck

and Co.

Dear Homemaker:
You have just invested in a very finezigzag sewing machine.
Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a
moment and carefully read this booklet which contains
instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension
adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain
the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense
for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care.of your machine is always
available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember,
if you have questions about your machine, always mention the
model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore

Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model
number and serial number of this appliance.
The model number and serial number are
located on the nomenclature plate, as identified
on Page 2 of this booklet.
Model No.385.
Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.

....
i!,::!i_i!!!i_i:,

TABLE OF CONTENTS
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Machine identification
....................
Accessories ...........................
Setting spool pins .......................
Installing extension table ..................
Pressure regulator, Presser foot lever ...........
Presser feet, Speed control plug ..............
Light and power switch, Sewing light ..........
Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate .......
Needle, thread and fabric chart ..............
Needles, Placement of needle ...............
Winding the bobbin ......................
Threading the bobbin case .................
Threading top thread...
..................
Picking up bobbin thread ..................
Adjusting top thread tensions ...............
Adjusting bobbin tensions
.................
STARTING
TO SEW .....................
SIMPLE

2
4
5
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
16
17

SEWING

Straight stitching
.......................
Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner
Zigzag stitching
........................
Checking tensions, Overcasting,
Interfacing darts
STRETCH AND UTILITY
STITCH SEWING
Stretch stitching ........................
Adjusting stretch stitch balance ..............
Straight stretch stitching
..................
Rick-rack stretch stitching
.................
Smocking stretch stitching
.................
Overcast stretch stitching
..................
Serging or pine leaf stretch stitching ...........
Buttonhole
making ......................
Adjusting buttonhole
stitch balance ...........
Shell stitching
.........................
Blind hemming .........................
Satin stitching, Appliqueing
................
Zipper application
......................
Mending, Darning .......................
Button sewing, Bar tacking .................
Free-arm sewing ........................
CHECKING PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS ......

22
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
30
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
36

CARING FOR THE MACHINE
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle
..............
Oiling under arm cover plate ................
Oiling underside ........................
Oiling in face cover plate ..................
Parts list ........
.....................
USING PORTABLE
CASE OR CABINET

39
40
41
42
44
45

.......

18
20

_KNOWING
bIACIdlNE

YOUR SEWING MACHINE

L_:

IDENTIFICATION

Prbssure

Regulator

Take-up

Lever

Upper

Thread

Bobbin

Guides

Winder

\

Face Cover

Extension

Plate

Arm

Cover

Plate

Light

and Power

Switch

Table

Buttonhole

Shuttle

Support

Stitch

Adjustor

Cover
Thread

Guide

Needle
Screw

Clamp

Leg

Needle
Thread

Thread

Spool

Pins

Presser

Foot

Guide

Thumb

Screw
Presser

Hand

Wheel

Clutch

Knob
"_.

Presser

-__Free

Electric

Cord

Receptacle

_/

Foot

Arm

\
\

Nomenclature

Plate
d

Foot

Lever

Plate

2,

Stitch

Selector

3.

4,
1.

Top

Thread

Tension

Stitch

Length

Reverse

Stitch

Control

Control

Control

3

ACCESSORI

ES
Accessory

box
Buttonhole

Small

screw

driver

Large

screw

driver

opener

Bobbin

Needle

set

\

Darning

plate

Thread

spool

pin

\

/

Satin
Buttonhole

guide

Nylon

stitch

/

/

Foot

control

Owner's

\

/

Zipper

foot

foot

\

disc

manual

foot

SETTING

SPOOL

PINS

Spool Pins are packed in accessory box.
Screw thread
Position

spool pins in place securely with a screw driver.

nylon discs as shown in illustration.

NSTALLING

EXTENSION

TABLE

For all flat-bed sewing use the extension table provided with the machine. To install the
extension table, simply slide the table along the free arm until the two Pins (A) and (B)
enter fitting holes in the machine.
Lower the support

leg.

To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular
the machine by pulling it to the left.

material,

remove the extension

table from

5

PRESSURE

REGULATOR

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator.
presser foot. (See above).

This will

release the pressure on the

To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained.
Insufficient
pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty
in guiding the fabric.
If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the
pressure.
When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric,
when sewing lighter weight fabrics.

reduce the pressure.

PRESSER

FOOT

Increase pressure

LEVER

To aid you in the placement of heavy
fabrics under the presser foot, the lever
can raise foot beyond the normal "up"
position.
This is also an aid in changing
your presser feet,

PRESSER

FEET

To change the various presser feet, raise
the presser bar to its highest position by
lifting the presser foot lever. Loosen the
presser foot thumb
screw, choose the
proper foot,
insert from the bottom.
Tighten the screw using the large screw
driver to make certain the foot is secure.

SPEED

CONTROL

PLUG

Push the speed control
prong connector.

plug onto

Plug machine cord
volt wall outlet.

any 110 _

into

three
120

7

LIGHT AND POWER SWITCH
Turn on power
power switch.

by

pushing

light

and

Important safety feature
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power
switch is turned on. Turning
on the power automatically
illuminates
the whole stitching area. If you're interrupted or stop sewing, turn off light/
power switch.

SL_#tklG

LiGH

The sewing light is located in the face
cover as shown.
To replace the bulb,
turn the light off and open the face
cover,
Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb
counter-clockwise
and remove it
from the socket.
Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise.
NOTE:
First, unplug the machine prior to removing and replacing the bulb. Be awar,e
that the light bulb may be warm.

8

FOOTCONTROL
Step on this control to start to sew. The
harder you press on the control,
the
faster the machine will sew. Slow down
by reducing foot pressure on the control.
You may want to practice your speed at
different
levels when you first use the
machine.

SEAM

_d[DES
_"

Seam guides are printed on either side of
the needle plate to aid you in guiding
your fabric.
THE GUIDE
LINE EXTENDING
ALONG THE RIGHT SIDE
OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS THE "ALL
IMPORTANT"
5/8" SEAM LINE.

Coiner ng Gu de

The cornering guides are convenient when
turning
a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge. See next section of this book
for directions.

DARN!NG

PLATE

There are a few times when you want to
control the feeding of the fabric yourself.
Raise needle to its highest position
and
raise presser foot,
Place darning plate
over needle plate aligning two pins of
darning plate with holes of needle plate.
Your may then determine the movement
of the fabric yourself.
See page 35 for
button sewing application.

9

NEEDLE_THREADAND

FABRIC

CHART

12 stitches
per inch

10 to 12 stitches
per inch

8 to 10 stitches
per inch

8 stitches
oer inch

6 stitches
per inch

10 for

Regular
or
6 for Stretch
Stitches

10

NEEDLES
Use KENMORE needles, The size of the
needle should conform with the size of
the thread and both should suit the
fabric.
Kenmore needles are color-coded
by size for your convenience
(See chart
on facing page).
Never use a bent
dull point.

needle or one with

a

The exact length of your needle is shown
at left.
Be sure you never use one in
your
machine
that
is not this exact
length.
You will find among your accessories a
Q NEEDLEr"with
blue shank.This special
needle is to be used when sewing knits
and certain difficult
synthetic fabrics.
If
you experience skipped stitches in any of
your
sewing,
use Q NEEDLE
and
Q FOOT'" *
TM

* Available
catalog.

at most Sears retail stores and

PLACEMENT

OF NEEDtE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by
turnir_g
the hand wheel toward
you.
Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding
the needle with the flat side away from
you, slip the needle into the needle bar.
When it is in as far as it will go, tighten
the needle clamp screw with small screwdriver provided in the accessory box.

11

WINDING

THE

1. Release clutch
toward you.
2. Draw
thread
bobbin winder

BOBBIN

by turning

clutch knob

from
spool
through
tension disc as shown.

3. Pull end of thread
bobbin as shown.

through

hole

in

4. Place bobbin
onto
bobbin
winder
shaft with end of thread coming from
the top of the bobbin.
Push bobbin

12

winder shaft to the right until it clicks.
Holding
onto
end of thread,
start
machine.
When bobbin
is slightly
filled, snip off end of thread.
5, Wind
thread
until
winder
Remove bobbitl.
Clip thread.
6. Tighten

clutch

knob.

stops.

1. Remove

the extension

table

from

the

machine
by pulling
it to the left.
Open the shuttle
cover by pulling
down the embossed part on the left
side of the cover.
2. Raise needle to its highest position
rotating hand wheel toward you.

by

3. To remove bobbin case from shuttle,
pull open latch of bobbin case.
Pull bobbin

case straight

4. Insert bobbin into bobbin case making
sure thread is coming from bobbin as
shown.
5. Pull thread
shown.

through

slot

of

case as

Pull thread under tension spring.
6. Holding latch open, position case into
shuttle, and release latch. Case should
lock into place when latch is released.

out of shuttle.

13

THREADING

TOP THREAD

'I

Place spool on spool
thread coming
from
spool.

pin as shown, with
the back of the

Draw thread through top thread guides.
Holding spool stationary
with right hand,
pull the end of the thread between the
tension discs as shown above (_.
Pull the end of the thread taut with left
hand. This will pull the spring wire up
and past the end of the hook. The thread
will then slip into the hook when the
spring is released as in (_ .

14

"_'f

Release spool
of thread
and thread
machine through take-up lever
(_
and
thread guide (6) as shown above. Thread
then passes through guides (_ and (_.
Thread needle _
from front to rear.

-,ING

bi :_ BOBBIN

THREAD

1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle
thread loosely in left hand and rotate
handwheel toward you one complete
turn.

2. Bring bobbin
upper thread.

3. Pull

both

thread

threads

up by

under

back of the presser foot,
4 inches of thread clear.

pulling

and to

the

leaving 3 to

If you cannot pick up bottom thread by
following
steps given above, then check:
1. Is needle threaded from front to back?
2. Is thread tangled around needle?
3. Is there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming
from the bobbin case?
4. Is thread from bobbin case tangled?

15

ADJUSTING
TENSIONS

TOP THREAD

Probably the most important
control on
your machine is this one that regulates
your top thread tension.
There are many reasons for having to
reset your tension.
The best tension for
one fabric may not be correct for another.
The required tension depends upon the
stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the
fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being
se,wn, as well as the type of stitch you are
making.

i!ilii
!

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap
of the fabric you are using before starting
to make a garment. Use the straight stitch
function as shown at the right.

ADJUSTING
TENSIOH_

BOBBIN

Bobbin
tension
requires adjusting
less
frequently
than the upper thread tension.
If the stitch is satisfactory
but the seam
is puckered, it may be necessary to loosen
the tension on both the top and bottom
threads. Be sure to balance them.
When adjusting the tension on the bobbin
case, make slight adjustments
with
a
screw driver.

16

:

..........

........... !!if{( _

...........

.... ART N(

TO SEW

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories
provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing
machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
1. Test the needle it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be
the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your
needle frequently.
Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the
needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been
drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing
of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine
double thickness.
your fabric.

stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should
Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable

be
to

4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left
of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on
the needle plate when making a simple seam.
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control,
the faster the machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning

and end of the seam.

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle.
fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning

the hand wheel manually,

always turn

it toward

Never pull or hold the

you.

17

SIMPLE SEWING
STRAIGHT

...........

STITCHI IC

Top thread tension
control
3 to 6

Stitch selector

_'

Stitch length control
12 to6

Presser foot

v

You will find in garment
and permanent.

construction

that you are doing two types of sewing-temporary

1. Temporary stitching-Usually
the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer
of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are:
Basting
Stay stitching
Guide line marking
2. Permanent stitching.
This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together. Much
of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good
looking.
The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics
the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.
You must remember to lengthen the stitch
and thicker seams. Some of these seams are:
Common two layer seams
Curved two layer seams
Top stitched three layer seams
Top stitched four layer seams

for

is 10-12 stitches

heavier fabrics,

When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable
carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area.

18

per inch. This is in

multiple

thickness,

layers of fabric

sew slowly

and

FASTENING

A SEAM

Be sure both threads are drawn
under the presser foot.
Lower
into fabric about 1/2 inch from
ning of seam.
Turn thereverse
control
clockwise
and stitch in

back
needle
beginstitch
reverse

until needle reaches beginning
of seam.
Release control and complete seam.
When you reach the end, turn the control clockwise
and sew back over 1/2
inch of completed seam.

TURNING

i

;

}i

A SQUARE

CORNER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle
tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the
cornering
guide as shown.
Raise the
presser fopt, turn fabric.
New stitching
line will align with 5/8" seam guide on
side of needle plate.
Lower the presser
foot and begin stitching in new direction.

19

ZIGZAG

Top

STITCHING

thread

tension

control 0 to 4

Stitch selector

/
Stitch length control
24 to 6

Presser foot

This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine.
This is the feature that
enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons.
Using the range of widths as
indicated on the central dial, you can sew any width you desire. Since this is a range, you
may set the dial between the illustrated widths.
The following
potential.

20

pages will

give you

directions

for utilizing

your

machine

to its greatest

CHECKING

TENSIONS

The easiest way to check tensions is to
sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric
you will be using.

UNDESIRABLE
•.... ::::;::';_::,.-;_

DESIRABLE
;i::::::;:;,':t:;::;..

Use the

....".....
.....
........
"" "....

i i: !iii

needle.
different
colors of thread on
the bobbinUseand
upper spool.

"'_::;:"":'°..........
"'"'"'"
........ " " ...........

"'°i ..............

Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches.
The bobbin thread should not show on
the top of the fabric.

"':-'_'_:'
":'::::-':
1,:;::::o
.-':::::,:
°.... ' .... ""::":;"

....................

Adjust
the top tension if necessary to
achieve the stitch formation
mentioned
above.

._'_",:':;_.,

appropriate

type

of thread

and

._. ....
ii;:;:':

_: .......

": ":"::::

"..... ,_;

TOP SIDE OF FABRIC

OVERCASTING

Fig.

1

This is one of the more frequently
used
zigzag stitches in garment construction.
You may want to overcast along the raw
edge of each seam allowance or fold the
raw edge toward the garment and stitch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched.

Fig. 2

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge. Raw or
worn
edges of older garments can be
overcast to prevent further raveling.

INTERFACING

/

I
t
/
I I

/

DARTS

To reduce bulk of interfacing
darts, cut
interfacing
down center between
dart
lines.
Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines.
Zigzag stitch along marking
line
from point to wide end of dart.
Trim
'both raw edges close to stitching.

21

STRETCH AND UTILITY STITCH SEWING
STRETCH

.......

STITCHING

The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and.knit
stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.

fabrics.

These are special

1. Straight Stretch
2. Rickrack Stretch
3. Overcast Stretch

/\/
\/\

/\/
\/\

/\/

4. Smocking Stretch
5. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch

\/\

/\/
\/\

/\/
\/\
./\/

@ @ ®@

®
ADJUSTING
STRETCH
STITCH BALANCE
In stretch
stitch
sewing, Stitch Length
Control
should be in the detent position
between S and L ( • position) for most
materials.
Depending upon the type of
fabric used, you may need to adjust this
control
to match forward
stitches of
stretch
sewing
with
reverse
motion
stitches.
To shorten stretch stitches, turn
the control
slightly
toward
"S".
To
lengthen, turn toward "L".

R ECO _/!_/1E N D A,T ION
1. It is recommended
that
the "Q"
needle and "Q"
foot
be used for
sewing knits and synthetic fabrics.
2. It may be
with very
is usually
away from

22

necessary to use a backing
soft fabrics.
Tissue paper
available.
It can be torn
seam after sewing.

STRAIGHT
STITCHING

STRETCI4

Top thread tension
control 3 to 6

Presser foot

Stitch selector

Stitch

length

control

Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric
and other fabrics that stretch.
Sew as
you
do
with
regular
straight
stitch
seaming. The seam may be pressed open
as with any regular seam, but will stretch
if necessary.
This is also a good stitch to use on curved
seams regardless of the type of fabric.
Any seam that will receive a great deal of
strain when worn should be sewn with
the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts
and slacks as well as adult sports clothes.

23

OVERCAST STRETCH
5 rSTCHING

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch

Stitch

selector

length

control

This is the same type of stitch used by
the garment industry
in making sportswear.
It is used for seams of 3/8" to
1/4".
The seam is formed and finished in
one operation.
It must be used when you
are making swimwear, ski pants and other
garments that require stretch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just
short of the outside edge.
Raw or worn edges of older garments can
be overcast to prevent further raveling.

26

8ERGING

OR PINE

STRETCiI

STtt

LEAF

/

6i-_tt,_

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

Stitch

selector

/
Presser foot

Stitch

length

control

The ser_ling or pine leaf stretch stitch is
equally useful with woven and knitted
fabrics. This stitch can be used in making
elastic swimwear, as well as overcasting a
neat edge on the seams.

27

BUTTONHOLE MAKING

7Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

Stitch

/

selector

/

Presser foot

Stitch

.

length

control

Carefully mark the buttonhole
length
on your garment.
Place the fabric
with the buttonhole
marked under the
buttonhole
foot.
Pull the guide foot
(A) all the way forward
so that the
index mark (B) is aligned with the
graduation
(C), with thread to rear.
(Reproduction
of the identical
size
buttonholes
is facilitated
with the aid
of the graduations on the left side of
the buttonhole
guide foot.
These graduations are 1/5" apart. Graduations
act as reference mark.)

28

•

.

."

.

Set stitch selector at
J_
forward
until you approach

Stitch
"the bot-

tom marking of the buttonhole.
Stop
sewing at the right stitch and raise the
needle to its highest
position
by
turning
hand-wheel
toward
you
manually.

,

Set stitch selector at _
and bartack
5 or 6 stitches at the bottom mark of
the buttonhole.
Stop sewing at the
left stitch.
Raise needle to its highest
position by turning handwheel toward
you.

4. Set stitch selector at _
and sew the
other side of the buttonhole
until
you approach the top marking of the
buttonhole.
Stop sewing at the left
stitch.
Raise the needle to its highest
position.

5. Set stitch selector at
_
again and
bartack 5 or 6 stitches to finish the
buttonhole,

Always make a practice buttonhole
hole with the button you will use.

on a scrap of fabric

you plan to use. Try the button-

Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissue paper or
regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used.
For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly.

29

ADJUSTING
BUTTONHOLE
STITCH BALANCE

If the stitching
on both sides of the
buttonhole
does not
have the same
density, adjust-by turning the adjuster.

Using a screw
driver,
make a slight
adjustment to left (+) increase the density
of the left side; turn to the right (-) to
increase the density
of the right side.
Both sides should be similar in appearance.

After sewing buttonholes,
return adjuster
to original
position
as shown in illus" tration at left.

SHELL

STITCHING

AL_j__/__iA
L

SETTINGS
StitchSelector ........

_

StitchLength Control . .. 18
Zigzag PresserFoot

When sewing this stitch, allow needle to
just clear the right edge of the fabric
when it zigzags.
NOTE:
You may need to increase your
slightly to achieve the shell affect.

3O

tension

B

INDHE!ViMING
Top

thread

control

_/--7\i-_/-

tension

0 to 4

Presser

Stitch

Stitch
Green

foot

Edgestitcher_
if available

selector

length control
Zone to 8

/

nside of

Dress
ed Edge
Fig. 1
1.

Finish
desire.
width.

edge of hem
anyway
you
Turn
up hem appropriate
(Fig. 1)

Foot

Fig. 3

3. Place garment under presser foot in
such a manner that straight stitches
will
be sewn on extended
edge.
The zigzag stitch should just catch
the fold of the garment. (Fig. 3)

Right Side of
• Finished Hem

_d

Edge
Fig. 2

2. Fold garment away from hem leaving 1/8" of hem edge extending.
(Fig. 2}

Fig. 4
4. Press both sides of the finished hem.
The right side of the garment will
show only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4)

31

SATIN

STITCHING

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

Stitch

Presser foot

Stitch

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches,
appliqueing, bar tacking or sewing on buttons.

selector

length

This is an attractive

control

stitch used for

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension
thread slightly.
The wider the stitch sewn the looser the tension.

of the top

If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or
interfacing for a well formed stitch.
Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the
bobbin thread will not be visible on the top side of the fabric.
It is best to practice

a sample design on a fabric scrap before sewing design on garment.

APPL!QUEtNG
SETTINGS
Same as with Satin Stitching
Select an applique
design to be applied
to your garment and baste it in place,
Satin stitch around the raw edge of the
applique
completely
covering the edge.
You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color.

32

7fPPER APP{, fCi:,i i()i'_,
SETTINGS
t m

Stitch Selector ........
Stitch Length Control
Zipper Foot.

,,,
. . . 12

REGU!

)er foot

_R ZIPPER

mg
screw

Thumb

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing
through the center hole of the foot and
one groove of the foot is riding on the
teeth of the zipper.
See Fig. 2. Follow
the zipper manufacturer's
instructions.

_

screw
Needle
(right)

After
zipper has been inserted, finish
sewing seam by shifting
foot to side
position sewing through side notch.

entr,,

Fig.

1

TNVISIBLE

ZIPPER

Pin or baste zipper to fabric and place
the work in position
under the presser
foot.
Loosen the zipper foot adjusting
screw to set the foot on the left side of
the needle, and sew the left side zipper
as shown.
(Fig. 1) To sew the rightside zipper, loosen the screw and bring
the foot to the right side of the needle.

CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording
for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a
strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in
Fig. 3.
NOTE:
Use "Low
Bar Sewing Machine
ZIPPER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible zipper"
and "cording",
which can be obtained at
any stores of Sears Roebuck and Co.

33

MENDING

". A,^, A
V

V

V

V

A

V

/

SETTINGS
Stitch

Selector

........

Stitch Length Control
Zigzag Presser Foot

........
....

_i
. . .

Green Zone
to 24

iii!iiii!iii!iiii!ii!i
!¸¸ , i!!i!i! i!iiii!i!i!iill
i iiiiii!iii To

repair a straight or three-cornered
tear, position the tear under the needle
in such a way that the stitching catches
both sides of the tear. When mending a
three-cornered
tear, stitch from each end
to the center. It is wel! to use a piece Of
fabric under the tear for reinforcement.

D A R N t _\:G
SETTINGS
I

Stitch Selector ............
Stitch Length Control
. . .
Presser Foot Pressure ....

III

t111

8 to 10
0

Zigzag Presser Foot
Use Darning

plate (See page 9)

Stretch fabric between embroidery
hoops
with hole centered.
Lower presser bar
and sew at a slow speed moving fabric
back and forth
with a steady rhythm to
cover darning area. When it is covered,
turn fabric 1/4 a turn and sew layer of
stitching
across first layer.
If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole
area, you may want to put a separate
piece under the hole for reinforcement.
Be sure to return pressure on presser foot
to original
adjustment
after
darning.
(See page 6)

34

BU

IQ_

Xi::W[':"

SETTINGS
Stitch Selector

........

Must be
adjusted
Use Darning plate (See page 9)
Zigzag Presser Foot
1. Align two holes of button with slot of
presser foot and lower foot to hold the
button securely.

2. Turn
hand
wheel
manually
needle point is just above button.

until

3. Adjust stitch selector so needle enters
right hole of button.
4. Turn hand wheel by hand so needle
enters second hole. The stitch selector
may need to be adjusted again. Stitch
a number of times.
NOTE:
You may find it helpful to use transparent tape to position your button
and to keep it in place during sewing.
Tear away after stitching.
5. Finish sewing with an extra two inches
of thread
remaining.
Draw these
threads to reverse side of garment and
tie.

BAR TACKING
SETTINGS
Stitch Selector

........

Stitch Length Control
Zigzag Presser Foot

_
. . .

tO

Green Zone

This stitch is similar to a very short satin
stitch and is used to reinforce
points of
strain such as corners of pockets and
straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

35

FREE-ARM

SEWING

This sewing machine can be used like
flat bed machine, but easily converts
free arm machine by removing the
tension table.
The free arm enables you to sew tubu
types of pieces more easily. Just slip t
sleeve or pants leg on the free arm
shown above.
You will find many uses for this free ar
feature such as:
1. Mend elbows
more easily.

and knees of garmer

2. Sew in sleeves more
especially
true when
garments,

easily.
sewing

This
small

3. Applique,
embroider
or hem arout
edges of cuffs or pants legs.
4. Sewing in elastic casings in skirts
pants at the waistline.

36

e it gently,
)resser foot.

needle

)r po sh_off burrs completely.
plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Do:'riot pull fabric;
guide itgently.
Choose',correct
size needle for thread
Reset needle.

and fabric,

a seam be sure to draw both:-threads
about 4 "_and holduntil
a few

under and
stitches ;'!

rmed.

is(s).
}resser foot.
ead shou

e size and

kind.

ii!_i!!_ili!!ii!

iiiii_iii!i_iii_i

_i_i_i_ _i_ii!_i_i'i
¸'_iiii

_

_

_i
¸

_ iO

_!_

_o_

_

_.

"_: No _ ..........

....... i

!iiii

38

'\RING

FOR THE MA,CHINE

: !:t_R!_R!_ FEED

DOGS AND

SEiUTTLE
Fig. 1 Cleaning
brush.

the

feed

dogs

with

a

To insure the best possible operation
of your machine, it is necessary to keep
the essential
parts clean at all times.
Using a small brush, remove the lint that
accumulates
in the shuttle
area and
around the feed dogs.
Fig.

1

Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle
To Clean the Shuttle
.

Assembly

Area:

This area must be kept free of dust,
lint
and occasional
tangled thread.
Raise the needle bar to its highest
point and remove the bobbin case.

2. Push levers of shuttle race aside and
lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out.
3. Clean
brush.

the

shuttle

race

with

small

4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of
the shuttle
and shuttle
race.
(see
arrows}

.....
i ,¸,t,o
.....
ooo
cover :

To Replace Shuttle

Assembly:

1. Position shuttle race as illustrated
so
that race is forming
half moon on the
left side of the machine.
.

Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half moon
on the right side.
Pointed hook will
be on the bottom.

3. Place shuttle race cover into place over
shuttle assembly.
4. Snap the levers into position.

39

OILING

UNDER

ARM

COVER

PLATE

Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated, in top of machine head. To remove cover
plate, loosen uptwo top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.

40

OILING

UNDERSIDE

Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers to oil points indicated on underside
of machine. To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B), (C), and (D) as shown
below.

B

D

,/
C

OILING

_N FACE COVER

Open face cover

42

PLATE

plate and oil points

in illustration.

PARTS

LIST

7

2

3

8

9

13

19

14

4

10

15

16

5

6

11

12

18

17

2O

21
22

PARTS LIST
All

parts listed

herein

WHEN ORDERING
MATION:

may be ordered

REPAIR

from

PARTS,

1. PART NUMBER
3. MODEL NUMBER

any Sears store or service

ALWAYS

GIVE

center.

THE

FOLLOWING

2. PART DESCRIPTION
4. NAME OF ITEM

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution
Center for expedited handling.
Ref.

No.

INFOR-

Part No.

transmitted

Description

1

47

Shuttle

2

6510

Bobbin

case

3

*6862

Bobbin

box with

4

1939

Bobbin

winder

5

8286

Thread

spool

6

2273

Nylon

7

6550

No.

9 Single

needles

(BRN)

6551

needles

(ORG)

6552

No. 11 Single
No. 14 Single

needles

(RED)

6553

No. 16 Single

needles

(PUR)

6554

No. 18 Single

needles

(GRN)

8
9
10
11
12

36353

Needle

687O

clamp

Buttonhole

with

guide

13
14

*6864

15

6797

16

40164

Light bulb
Motor belt

33379

Motor

Zipper

foot

Zipper

foot

Needle

threader

foot

belt

17

6830

18

41670

Large screw driver

19

41669

Small screw driver

20

*6889

Oil and lint

21

*6530

Flower

647821008

screw

Standard zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot

593401008
*6757

22

ring

disc

"Q NEEDLES--

40390

rubber
pin

*6746
648801005

10 bobbins

Buttonhole

Darnin_t

opener

brush

stitch
plate

attachment

USING PORTABLE

CASE OR CABaN.ET

A full line of sewing cabinets
is available
at your
nearest
Sears retail
store
or
through
our general catalog.
Whenever
you're
ready to sew, so is your sewing
place.
Another
option..,
buy a Carrying
Case.
. then your
Kenmore
goes anywhere, can be stored anywhere.

MEMO

MEMO

MEMO

SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore
Sewing Machine,
should
a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply
contact
any Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck
and
Co. Stores. Be sure to provide
all pertinent
facts when you
call or visit.
The model number
of your Sewing Machine will be shown on
your nomenclature
plate on the back of your Sewing Machine.
See page 2 for location.

WHEN ORDERING
REPAIR
FOLLOWING
INFORMATION:
*MODEL

NUMBER

*NAME

PARTS,

ALWAYS

OF ITEM *PART

GIVE

THE

DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked
locally,
your order will
be electronically
transmitted
to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.

SEARS, ROEBUCK

S-385

AND CO., Chicago, IL60684

Printed

in Taiwan

U.S.A.

Par:[ No. 648800071

WARRANTY
FULL

25-YEAR

WARRANTY

ON

SEWING

MACHINE

....

HEAD
For 25 years from the date of purchase,
Sears will,
charge,
repair
defects
in material
or workmanship
appear in the sewing machine head.

free of
which

FULL

EQUIP-

! i !!2 i!!i;ili]iii!i!iiiii'i!ii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
i_

¸

c_?!:,i.,_.

-

TWO

YEAR

WARRANTY

ON

ELECTRICAL

MENT OF SEWING MACHINE
For two years from the date of purchase,
Sears will, free of
charge,
repair
defects
in material
or workmanship
which
appear
in the electrical
equipment
of the sewing machine,
including
motor, wiring, switch and speed control.

_ .....
_i

FULL

_i;::_;i_::.i!:i!b;:

90-DAY

MECHANICAL

WARRANTY

ON

ALL

PARTS

AND

ADJUSTMENTS

-.--....

For 90 days from
the date of purchase,
Sears will,
charge,
replace
any parts and provide
mechanica
necessary for proper operation
of the sewing machine,
for normal maintenance.

free of
service
except

_J
E

To obtain
warranty
service described
above, SIMPLY
CONTACT
THE NEAREST
SEARS STORE OR SERVICE
CENTER
IN THE
UNITED
STATES.
This warranty
is n use in the United States.

applies

only

This warranty
gives you specific legal rights,
other rights which vary from state to state.

SEARS,

ROEBUCK

AND

CO., Dept. 698/731A,

while

and you

Sears Tower,

this

product

may also have

Chicago,

IL 60684

,_
._=

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..........ii: :.......

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