Kenmore 3851249380 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0802219
KENMORE Electronic Sewing Manual L0802219 KENMORE Electronic Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Electronic Sewing installation guides
User Manual: Kenmore 3851249380 3851249380 KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #3851249380. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore KENMORE SEWING MACHINE Manual
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Kenmor'e SEWING OWNER'S MACHINE 12493 MA P/N 648800071 Sears, Roebuck and Co. Dear Homemaker: You have just invested in a very finezigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control. Advice on the operation and care.of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire. Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 2 of this booklet. Model No.385. Serial No. Retain these numbers for future reference. .... i!,::!i_i!!!i_i:, TABLE OF CONTENTS KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Machine identification .................... Accessories ........................... Setting spool pins ....................... Installing extension table .................. Pressure regulator, Presser foot lever ........... Presser feet, Speed control plug .............. Light and power switch, Sewing light .......... Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate ....... Needle, thread and fabric chart .............. Needles, Placement of needle ............... Winding the bobbin ...................... Threading the bobbin case ................. Threading top thread... .................. Picking up bobbin thread .................. Adjusting top thread tensions ............... Adjusting bobbin tensions ................. STARTING TO SEW ..................... SIMPLE 2 4 5 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 16 17 SEWING Straight stitching ....................... Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner Zigzag stitching ........................ Checking tensions, Overcasting, Interfacing darts STRETCH AND UTILITY STITCH SEWING Stretch stitching ........................ Adjusting stretch stitch balance .............. Straight stretch stitching .................. Rick-rack stretch stitching ................. Smocking stretch stitching ................. Overcast stretch stitching .................. Serging or pine leaf stretch stitching ........... Buttonhole making ...................... Adjusting buttonhole stitch balance ........... Shell stitching ......................... Blind hemming ......................... Satin stitching, Appliqueing ................ Zipper application ...................... Mending, Darning ....................... Button sewing, Bar tacking ................. Free-arm sewing ........................ CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS ...... 22 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 30 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 36 CARING FOR THE MACHINE Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle .............. Oiling under arm cover plate ................ Oiling underside ........................ Oiling in face cover plate .................. Parts list ........ ..................... USING PORTABLE CASE OR CABINET 39 40 41 42 44 45 ....... 18 20 _KNOWING bIACIdlNE YOUR SEWING MACHINE L_: IDENTIFICATION Prbssure Regulator Take-up Lever Upper Thread Bobbin Guides Winder \ Face Cover Extension Plate Arm Cover Plate Light and Power Switch Table Buttonhole Shuttle Support Stitch Adjustor Cover Thread Guide Needle Screw Clamp Leg Needle Thread Thread Spool Pins Presser Foot Guide Thumb Screw Presser Hand Wheel Clutch Knob "_. Presser -__Free Electric Cord Receptacle _/ Foot Arm \ \ Nomenclature Plate d Foot Lever Plate 2, Stitch Selector 3. 4, 1. Top Thread Tension Stitch Length Reverse Stitch Control Control Control 3 ACCESSORI ES Accessory box Buttonhole Small screw driver Large screw driver opener Bobbin Needle set \ Darning plate Thread spool pin \ / Satin Buttonhole guide Nylon stitch / / Foot control Owner's \ / Zipper foot foot \ disc manual foot SETTING SPOOL PINS Spool Pins are packed in accessory box. Screw thread Position spool pins in place securely with a screw driver. nylon discs as shown in illustration. NSTALLING EXTENSION TABLE For all flat-bed sewing use the extension table provided with the machine. To install the extension table, simply slide the table along the free arm until the two Pins (A) and (B) enter fitting holes in the machine. Lower the support leg. To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular the machine by pulling it to the left. material, remove the extension table from 5 PRESSURE REGULATOR Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. presser foot. (See above). This will release the pressure on the To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained. Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure. When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, when sewing lighter weight fabrics. reduce the pressure. PRESSER FOOT Increase pressure LEVER To aid you in the placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the lever can raise foot beyond the normal "up" position. This is also an aid in changing your presser feet, PRESSER FEET To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure. SPEED CONTROL PLUG Push the speed control prong connector. plug onto Plug machine cord volt wall outlet. any 110 _ into three 120 7 LIGHT AND POWER SWITCH Turn on power power switch. by pushing light and Important safety feature Your machine will not operate unless the light/power switch is turned on. Turning on the power automatically illuminates the whole stitching area. If you're interrupted or stop sewing, turn off light/ power switch. SL_#tklG LiGH The sewing light is located in the face cover as shown. To replace the bulb, turn the light off and open the face cover, Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise and remove it from the socket. Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise. NOTE: First, unplug the machine prior to removing and replacing the bulb. Be awar,e that the light bulb may be warm. 8 FOOTCONTROL Step on this control to start to sew. The harder you press on the control, the faster the machine will sew. Slow down by reducing foot pressure on the control. You may want to practice your speed at different levels when you first use the machine. SEAM _d[DES _" Seam guides are printed on either side of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ALONG THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS THE "ALL IMPORTANT" 5/8" SEAM LINE. Coiner ng Gu de The cornering guides are convenient when turning a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge. See next section of this book for directions. DARN!NG PLATE There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself. Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot, Place darning plate over needle plate aligning two pins of darning plate with holes of needle plate. Your may then determine the movement of the fabric yourself. See page 35 for button sewing application. 9 NEEDLE_THREADAND FABRIC CHART 12 stitches per inch 10 to 12 stitches per inch 8 to 10 stitches per inch 8 stitches oer inch 6 stitches per inch 10 for Regular or 6 for Stretch Stitches 10 NEEDLES Use KENMORE needles, The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should suit the fabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded by size for your convenience (See chart on facing page). Never use a bent dull point. needle or one with a The exact length of your needle is shown at left. Be sure you never use one in your machine that is not this exact length. You will find among your accessories a Q NEEDLEr"with blue shank.This special needle is to be used when sewing knits and certain difficult synthetic fabrics. If you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing, use Q NEEDLE and Q FOOT'" * TM * Available catalog. at most Sears retail stores and PLACEMENT OF NEEDtE Raise needle bar to its highest position by turnir_g the hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with small screwdriver provided in the accessory box. 11 WINDING THE 1. Release clutch toward you. 2. Draw thread bobbin winder BOBBIN by turning clutch knob from spool through tension disc as shown. 3. Pull end of thread bobbin as shown. through hole in 4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin 12 winder shaft to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread. 5, Wind thread until winder Remove bobbitl. Clip thread. 6. Tighten clutch knob. stops. 1. Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the left. Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover. 2. Raise needle to its highest position rotating hand wheel toward you. by 3. To remove bobbin case from shuttle, pull open latch of bobbin case. Pull bobbin case straight 4. Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown. 5. Pull thread shown. through slot of case as Pull thread under tension spring. 6. Holding latch open, position case into shuttle, and release latch. Case should lock into place when latch is released. out of shuttle. 13 THREADING TOP THREAD 'I Place spool on spool thread coming from spool. pin as shown, with the back of the Draw thread through top thread guides. Holding spool stationary with right hand, pull the end of the thread between the tension discs as shown above (_. Pull the end of the thread taut with left hand. This will pull the spring wire up and past the end of the hook. The thread will then slip into the hook when the spring is released as in (_ . 14 "_'f Release spool of thread and thread machine through take-up lever (_ and thread guide (6) as shown above. Thread then passes through guides (_ and (_. Thread needle _ from front to rear. -,ING bi :_ BOBBIN THREAD 1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn. 2. Bring bobbin upper thread. 3. Pull both thread threads up by under back of the presser foot, 4 inches of thread clear. pulling and to the leaving 3 to If you cannot pick up bottom thread by following steps given above, then check: 1. Is needle threaded from front to back? 2. Is thread tangled around needle? 3. Is there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the bobbin case? 4. Is thread from bobbin case tangled? 15 ADJUSTING TENSIONS TOP THREAD Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another. The required tension depends upon the stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being se,wn, as well as the type of stitch you are making. i!ilii ! It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before starting to make a garment. Use the straight stitch function as shown at the right. ADJUSTING TENSIOH_ BOBBIN Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread tension. If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads. Be sure to balance them. When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with a screw driver. 16 : .......... ........... !!if{( _ ........... .... ART N( TO SEW Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: 1. Test the needle it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers. 2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam. 3. Test the machine double thickness. your fabric. stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable be to 4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam. 5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew. 6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam. 7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point. 8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered. 9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward Never pull or hold the you. 17 SIMPLE SEWING STRAIGHT ........... STITCHI IC Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch selector _' Stitch length control 12 to6 Presser foot v You will find in garment and permanent. construction that you are doing two types of sewing-temporary 1. Temporary stitching-Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are: Basting Stay stitching Guide line marking 2. Permanent stitching. This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together. Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good looking. The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics the middle range of the Stitch Length Control. You must remember to lengthen the stitch and thicker seams. Some of these seams are: Common two layer seams Curved two layer seams Top stitched three layer seams Top stitched four layer seams for is 10-12 stitches heavier fabrics, When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area. 18 per inch. This is in multiple thickness, layers of fabric sew slowly and FASTENING A SEAM Be sure both threads are drawn under the presser foot. Lower into fabric about 1/2 inch from ning of seam. Turn thereverse control clockwise and stitch in back needle beginstitch reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. Release control and complete seam. When you reach the end, turn the control clockwise and sew back over 1/2 inch of completed seam. TURNING i ; }i A SQUARE CORNER To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown. Raise the presser fopt, turn fabric. New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction. 19 ZIGZAG Top STITCHING thread tension control 0 to 4 Stitch selector / Stitch length control 24 to 6 Presser foot This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons. Using the range of widths as indicated on the central dial, you can sew any width you desire. Since this is a range, you may set the dial between the illustrated widths. The following potential. 20 pages will give you directions for utilizing your machine to its greatest CHECKING TENSIONS The easiest way to check tensions is to sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric you will be using. UNDESIRABLE •.... ::::;::';_::,.-;_ DESIRABLE ;i::::::;:;,':t:;::;.. Use the ...."..... ..... ........ "" ".... i i: !iii needle. different colors of thread on the bobbinUseand upper spool. "'_::;:"":'°.......... "'"'"'" ........ " " ........... "'°i .............. Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches. The bobbin thread should not show on the top of the fabric. "':-'_'_:' ":'::::-': 1,:;::::o .-':::::,: °.... ' .... ""::":;" .................... Adjust the top tension if necessary to achieve the stitch formation mentioned above. ._'_",:':;_., appropriate type of thread and ._. .... ii;:;:': _: ....... ": ":":::: "..... ,_; TOP SIDE OF FABRIC OVERCASTING Fig. 1 This is one of the more frequently used zigzag stitches in garment construction. You may want to overcast along the raw edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw edge toward the garment and stitch. Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished. Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched. Fig. 2 Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling. INTERFACING / I t / I I / DARTS To reduce bulk of interfacing darts, cut interfacing down center between dart lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line from point to wide end of dart. Trim 'both raw edges close to stitching. 21 STRETCH AND UTILITY STITCH SEWING STRETCH ....... STITCHING The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and.knit stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection. fabrics. These are special 1. Straight Stretch 2. Rickrack Stretch 3. Overcast Stretch /\/ \/\ /\/ \/\ /\/ 4. Smocking Stretch 5. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch \/\ /\/ \/\ /\/ \/\ ./\/ @ @ ®@ ® ADJUSTING STRETCH STITCH BALANCE In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length Control should be in the detent position between S and L ( • position) for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric used, you may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches of stretch sewing with reverse motion stitches. To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly toward "S". To lengthen, turn toward "L". R ECO _/!_/1E N D A,T ION 1. It is recommended that the "Q" needle and "Q" foot be used for sewing knits and synthetic fabrics. 2. It may be with very is usually away from 22 necessary to use a backing soft fabrics. Tissue paper available. It can be torn seam after sewing. STRAIGHT STITCHING STRETCI4 Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Presser foot Stitch selector Stitch length control Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric and other fabrics that stretch. Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming. The seam may be pressed open as with any regular seam, but will stretch if necessary. This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric. Any seam that will receive a great deal of strain when worn should be sewn with the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts and slacks as well as adult sports clothes. 23 OVERCAST STRETCH 5 rSTCHING Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Presser foot Stitch Stitch selector length control This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sportswear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to 1/4". The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It must be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch. Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished. Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling. 26 8ERGING OR PINE STRETCiI STtt LEAF / 6i-_tt,_ Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Stitch selector / Presser foot Stitch length control The ser_ling or pine leaf stretch stitch is equally useful with woven and knitted fabrics. This stitch can be used in making elastic swimwear, as well as overcasting a neat edge on the seams. 27 BUTTONHOLE MAKING 7Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Stitch / selector / Presser foot Stitch . length control Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment. Place the fabric with the buttonhole marked under the buttonhole foot. Pull the guide foot (A) all the way forward so that the index mark (B) is aligned with the graduation (C), with thread to rear. (Reproduction of the identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the graduations on the left side of the buttonhole guide foot. These graduations are 1/5" apart. Graduations act as reference mark.) 28 • . ." . Set stitch selector at J_ forward until you approach Stitch "the bot- tom marking of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the right stitch and raise the needle to its highest position by turning hand-wheel toward you manually. , Set stitch selector at _ and bartack 5 or 6 stitches at the bottom mark of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch. Raise needle to its highest position by turning handwheel toward you. 4. Set stitch selector at _ and sew the other side of the buttonhole until you approach the top marking of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch. Raise the needle to its highest position. 5. Set stitch selector at _ again and bartack 5 or 6 stitches to finish the buttonhole, Always make a practice buttonhole hole with the button you will use. on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the button- Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissue paper or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used. For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly. 29 ADJUSTING BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE If the stitching on both sides of the buttonhole does not have the same density, adjust-by turning the adjuster. Using a screw driver, make a slight adjustment to left (+) increase the density of the left side; turn to the right (-) to increase the density of the right side. Both sides should be similar in appearance. After sewing buttonholes, return adjuster to original position as shown in illus" tration at left. SHELL STITCHING AL_j__/__iA L SETTINGS StitchSelector ........ _ StitchLength Control . .. 18 Zigzag PresserFoot When sewing this stitch, allow needle to just clear the right edge of the fabric when it zigzags. NOTE: You may need to increase your slightly to achieve the shell affect. 3O tension B INDHE!ViMING Top thread control _/--7\i-_/- tension 0 to 4 Presser Stitch Stitch Green foot Edgestitcher_ if available selector length control Zone to 8 / nside of Dress ed Edge Fig. 1 1. Finish desire. width. edge of hem anyway you Turn up hem appropriate (Fig. 1) Foot Fig. 3 3. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment. (Fig. 3) Right Side of • Finished Hem _d Edge Fig. 2 2. Fold garment away from hem leaving 1/8" of hem edge extending. (Fig. 2} Fig. 4 4. Press both sides of the finished hem. The right side of the garment will show only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4) 31 SATIN STITCHING Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Stitch Presser foot Stitch Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches, appliqueing, bar tacking or sewing on buttons. selector length This is an attractive control stitch used for Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension thread slightly. The wider the stitch sewn the looser the tension. of the top If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the top side of the fabric. It is best to practice a sample design on a fabric scrap before sewing design on garment. APPL!QUEtNG SETTINGS Same as with Satin Stitching Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place, Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color. 32 7fPPER APP{, fCi:,i i()i'_, SETTINGS t m Stitch Selector ........ Stitch Length Control Zipper Foot. ,,, . . . 12 REGU! )er foot _R ZIPPER mg screw Thumb Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper. See Fig. 2. Follow the zipper manufacturer's instructions. _ screw Needle (right) After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch. entr,, Fig. 1 TNVISIBLE ZIPPER Pin or baste zipper to fabric and place the work in position under the presser foot. Loosen the zipper foot adjusting screw to set the foot on the left side of the needle, and sew the left side zipper as shown. (Fig. 1) To sew the rightside zipper, loosen the screw and bring the foot to the right side of the needle. CORDING Foot can also be used to make cording for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in Fig. 3. NOTE: Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible zipper" and "cording", which can be obtained at any stores of Sears Roebuck and Co. 33 MENDING ". A,^, A V V V V A V / SETTINGS Stitch Selector ........ Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot ........ .... _i . . . Green Zone to 24 iii!iiii!iii!iiii!ii!i !¸¸ , i!!i!i! i!iiii!i!i!iill i iiiiii!iii To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center. It is wel! to use a piece Of fabric under the tear for reinforcement. D A R N t _\:G SETTINGS I Stitch Selector ............ Stitch Length Control . . . Presser Foot Pressure .... III t111 8 to 10 0 Zigzag Presser Foot Use Darning plate (See page 9) Stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered. Lower presser bar and sew at a slow speed moving fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover darning area. When it is covered, turn fabric 1/4 a turn and sew layer of stitching across first layer. If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole area, you may want to put a separate piece under the hole for reinforcement. Be sure to return pressure on presser foot to original adjustment after darning. (See page 6) 34 BU IQ_ Xi::W[':" SETTINGS Stitch Selector ........ Must be adjusted Use Darning plate (See page 9) Zigzag Presser Foot 1. Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely. 2. Turn hand wheel manually needle point is just above button. until 3. Adjust stitch selector so needle enters right hole of button. 4. Turn hand wheel by hand so needle enters second hole. The stitch selector may need to be adjusted again. Stitch a number of times. NOTE: You may find it helpful to use transparent tape to position your button and to keep it in place during sewing. Tear away after stitching. 5. Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining. Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie. BAR TACKING SETTINGS Stitch Selector ........ Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot _ . . . tO Green Zone This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches. 35 FREE-ARM SEWING This sewing machine can be used like flat bed machine, but easily converts free arm machine by removing the tension table. The free arm enables you to sew tubu types of pieces more easily. Just slip t sleeve or pants leg on the free arm shown above. You will find many uses for this free ar feature such as: 1. Mend elbows more easily. and knees of garmer 2. Sew in sleeves more especially true when garments, easily. sewing This small 3. Applique, embroider or hem arout edges of cuffs or pants legs. 4. Sewing in elastic casings in skirts pants at the waistline. 36 e it gently, )resser foot. needle )r po sh_off burrs completely. plate, or polish off burrs completely. Do:'riot pull fabric; guide itgently. Choose',correct size needle for thread Reset needle. and fabric, a seam be sure to draw both:-threads about 4 "_and holduntil a few under and stitches ;'! rmed. is(s). }resser foot. ead shou e size and kind. ii!_i!!_ili!!ii! iiiii_iii!i_iii_i _i_i_i_ _i_ii!_i_i'i ¸'_iiii _ _ _i ¸ _ iO _!_ _o_ _ _. "_: No _ .......... ....... i !iiii 38 '\RING FOR THE MA,CHINE : !:t_R!_R!_ FEED DOGS AND SEiUTTLE Fig. 1 Cleaning brush. the feed dogs with a To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times. Using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle area and around the feed dogs. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle To Clean the Shuttle . Assembly Area: This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case. 2. Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out. 3. Clean brush. the shuttle race with small 4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race. (see arrows} ..... i ,¸,t,o ..... ooo cover : To Replace Shuttle Assembly: 1. Position shuttle race as illustrated so that race is forming half moon on the left side of the machine. . Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook will be on the bottom. 3. Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle assembly. 4. Snap the levers into position. 39 OILING UNDER ARM COVER PLATE Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated, in top of machine head. To remove cover plate, loosen uptwo top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated below. 40 OILING UNDERSIDE Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers to oil points indicated on underside of machine. To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B), (C), and (D) as shown below. B D ,/ C OILING _N FACE COVER Open face cover 42 PLATE plate and oil points in illustration. PARTS LIST 7 2 3 8 9 13 19 14 4 10 15 16 5 6 11 12 18 17 2O 21 22 PARTS LIST All parts listed herein WHEN ORDERING MATION: may be ordered REPAIR from PARTS, 1. PART NUMBER 3. MODEL NUMBER any Sears store or service ALWAYS GIVE center. THE FOLLOWING 2. PART DESCRIPTION 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling. Ref. No. INFOR- Part No. transmitted Description 1 47 Shuttle 2 6510 Bobbin case 3 *6862 Bobbin box with 4 1939 Bobbin winder 5 8286 Thread spool 6 2273 Nylon 7 6550 No. 9 Single needles (BRN) 6551 needles (ORG) 6552 No. 11 Single No. 14 Single needles (RED) 6553 No. 16 Single needles (PUR) 6554 No. 18 Single needles (GRN) 8 9 10 11 12 36353 Needle 687O clamp Buttonhole with guide 13 14 *6864 15 6797 16 40164 Light bulb Motor belt 33379 Motor Zipper foot Zipper foot Needle threader foot belt 17 6830 18 41670 Large screw driver 19 41669 Small screw driver 20 *6889 Oil and lint 21 *6530 Flower 647821008 screw Standard zigzag foot Satin stitch foot 593401008 *6757 22 ring disc "Q NEEDLES-- 40390 rubber pin *6746 648801005 10 bobbins Buttonhole Darnin_t opener brush stitch plate attachment USING PORTABLE CASE OR CABaN.ET A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Whenever you're ready to sew, so is your sewing place. Another option.., buy a Carrying Case. . then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored anywhere. MEMO MEMO MEMO SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine. See page 2 for location. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR FOLLOWING INFORMATION: *MODEL NUMBER *NAME PARTS, ALWAYS OF ITEM *PART GIVE THE DESCRIPTION If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling. SEARS, ROEBUCK S-385 AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 Printed in Taiwan U.S.A. Par:[ No. 648800071 WARRANTY FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE .... HEAD For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, charge, repair defects in material or workmanship appear in the sewing machine head. free of which FULL EQUIP- ! i !!2 i!!i;ili]iii!i!iiiii'i!ii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii i_ ¸ c_?!:,i.,_. - TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL MENT OF SEWING MACHINE For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including motor, wiring, switch and speed control. _ ..... _i FULL _i;::_;i_::.i!:i!b;: 90-DAY MECHANICAL WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND ADJUSTMENTS -.--.... For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, charge, replace any parts and provide mechanica necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, for normal maintenance. free of service except _J E To obtain warranty service described above, SIMPLY CONTACT THE NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN THE UNITED STATES. This warranty is n use in the United States. applies only This warranty gives you specific legal rights, other rights which vary from state to state. SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Dept. 698/731A, while and you Sears Tower, this product may also have Chicago, IL 60684 ,_ ._= ,l|l. -_ ..........ii: :....... '111,.-4_ d!ll, _ 'Ill!. _ 'ill,, _ '11t,._ -'llll. -_ 'lll,,-'_ '!I1,. _ 'llll. -'_ '!11,"_ '1lt*. @ 'Ill,, @ '!tI_. €_ 'll]_. -_ 'llll_ Kenmor'e SEWING OWNER'S MACHINE 12493 MA P/N 648800071 Sears, Roebuck and Co. Dear Homemaker: You have just invested in a very finezigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control. Advice on the operation and care.of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire. Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 2 of this booklet. Model No.385. Serial No. Retain these numbers for future reference. .... i!,::!i_i!!!i_i:, TABLE OF CONTENTS KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Machine identification .................... Accessories ........................... Setting spool pins ....................... Installing extension table .................. Pressure regulator, Presser foot lever ........... Presser feet, Speed control plug .............. Light and power switch, Sewing light .......... Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate ....... Needle, thread and fabric chart .............. Needles, Placement of needle ............... Winding the bobbin ...................... Threading the bobbin case ................. Threading top thread... .................. Picking up bobbin thread .................. Adjusting top thread tensions ............... Adjusting bobbin tensions ................. STARTING TO SEW ..................... SIMPLE 2 4 5 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 16 17 SEWING Straight stitching ....................... Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner Zigzag stitching ........................ Checking tensions, Overcasting, Interfacing darts STRETCH AND UTILITY STITCH SEWING Stretch stitching ........................ Adjusting stretch stitch balance .............. Straight stretch stitching .................. Rick-rack stretch stitching ................. Smocking stretch stitching ................. Overcast stretch stitching .................. Serging or pine leaf stretch stitching ........... Buttonhole making ...................... Adjusting buttonhole stitch balance ........... Shell stitching ......................... Blind hemming ......................... Satin stitching, Appliqueing ................ Zipper application ...................... Mending, Darning ....................... Button sewing, Bar tacking ................. Free-arm sewing ........................ CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS ...... 22 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 30 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 36 CARING FOR THE MACHINE Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle .............. Oiling under arm cover plate ................ Oiling underside ........................ Oiling in face cover plate .................. Parts list ........ ..................... USING PORTABLE CASE OR CABINET 39 40 41 42 44 45 ....... 18 20 _KNOWING bIACIdlNE YOUR SEWING MACHINE L_: IDENTIFICATION Prbssure Regulator Take-up Lever Upper Thread Bobbin Guides Winder \ Face Cover Extension Plate Arm Cover Plate Light and Power Switch Table Buttonhole Shuttle Support Stitch Adjustor Cover Thread Guide Needle Screw Clamp Leg Needle Thread Thread Spool Pins Presser Foot Guide Thumb Screw Presser Hand Wheel Clutch Knob "_. Presser -__Free Electric Cord Receptacle _/ Foot Arm \ \ Nomenclature Plate d Foot Lever Plate 2, Stitch Selector 3. 4, 1. Top Thread Tension Stitch Length Reverse Stitch Control Control Control 3 ACCESSORI ES Accessory box Buttonhole Small screw driver Large screw driver opener Bobbin Needle set \ Darning plate Thread spool pin \ / Satin Buttonhole guide Nylon stitch / / Foot control Owner's \ / Zipper foot foot \ disc manual foot SETTING SPOOL PINS Spool Pins are packed in accessory box. Screw thread Position spool pins in place securely with a screw driver. nylon discs as shown in illustration. NSTALLING EXTENSION TABLE For all flat-bed sewing use the extension table provided with the machine. To install the extension table, simply slide the table along the free arm until the two Pins (A) and (B) enter fitting holes in the machine. Lower the support leg. To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular the machine by pulling it to the left. material, remove the extension table from 5 PRESSURE REGULATOR Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. presser foot. (See above). This will release the pressure on the To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained. Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure. When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, when sewing lighter weight fabrics. reduce the pressure. PRESSER FOOT Increase pressure LEVER To aid you in the placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the lever can raise foot beyond the normal "up" position. This is also an aid in changing your presser feet, PRESSER FEET To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure. SPEED CONTROL PLUG Push the speed control prong connector. plug onto Plug machine cord volt wall outlet. any 110 _ into three 120 7 LIGHT AND POWER SWITCH Turn on power power switch. by pushing light and Important safety feature Your machine will not operate unless the light/power switch is turned on. Turning on the power automatically illuminates the whole stitching area. If you're interrupted or stop sewing, turn off light/ power switch. SL_#tklG LiGH The sewing light is located in the face cover as shown. To replace the bulb, turn the light off and open the face cover, Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise and remove it from the socket. Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise. NOTE: First, unplug the machine prior to removing and replacing the bulb. Be awar,e that the light bulb may be warm. 8 FOOTCONTROL Step on this control to start to sew. The harder you press on the control, the faster the machine will sew. Slow down by reducing foot pressure on the control. You may want to practice your speed at different levels when you first use the machine. SEAM _d[DES _" Seam guides are printed on either side of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ALONG THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS THE "ALL IMPORTANT" 5/8" SEAM LINE. Coiner ng Gu de The cornering guides are convenient when turning a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge. See next section of this book for directions. DARN!NG PLATE There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself. Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot, Place darning plate over needle plate aligning two pins of darning plate with holes of needle plate. Your may then determine the movement of the fabric yourself. See page 35 for button sewing application. 9 NEEDLE_THREADAND FABRIC CHART 12 stitches per inch 10 to 12 stitches per inch 8 to 10 stitches per inch 8 stitches oer inch 6 stitches per inch 10 for Regular or 6 for Stretch Stitches 10 NEEDLES Use KENMORE needles, The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should suit the fabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded by size for your convenience (See chart on facing page). Never use a bent dull point. needle or one with a The exact length of your needle is shown at left. Be sure you never use one in your machine that is not this exact length. You will find among your accessories a Q NEEDLEr"with blue shank.This special needle is to be used when sewing knits and certain difficult synthetic fabrics. If you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing, use Q NEEDLE and Q FOOT'" * TM * Available catalog. at most Sears retail stores and PLACEMENT OF NEEDtE Raise needle bar to its highest position by turnir_g the hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with small screwdriver provided in the accessory box. 11 WINDING THE 1. Release clutch toward you. 2. Draw thread bobbin winder BOBBIN by turning clutch knob from spool through tension disc as shown. 3. Pull end of thread bobbin as shown. through hole in 4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin 12 winder shaft to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread. 5, Wind thread until winder Remove bobbitl. Clip thread. 6. Tighten clutch knob. stops. 1. Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the left. Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover. 2. Raise needle to its highest position rotating hand wheel toward you. by 3. To remove bobbin case from shuttle, pull open latch of bobbin case. Pull bobbin case straight 4. Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown. 5. Pull thread shown. through slot of case as Pull thread under tension spring. 6. Holding latch open, position case into shuttle, and release latch. Case should lock into place when latch is released. out of shuttle. 13 THREADING TOP THREAD 'I Place spool on spool thread coming from spool. pin as shown, with the back of the Draw thread through top thread guides. Holding spool stationary with right hand, pull the end of the thread between the tension discs as shown above (_. Pull the end of the thread taut with left hand. This will pull the spring wire up and past the end of the hook. The thread will then slip into the hook when the spring is released as in (_ . 14 "_'f Release spool of thread and thread machine through take-up lever (_ and thread guide (6) as shown above. Thread then passes through guides (_ and (_. Thread needle _ from front to rear. -,ING bi :_ BOBBIN THREAD 1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn. 2. Bring bobbin upper thread. 3. Pull both thread threads up by under back of the presser foot, 4 inches of thread clear. pulling and to the leaving 3 to If you cannot pick up bottom thread by following steps given above, then check: 1. Is needle threaded from front to back? 2. Is thread tangled around needle? 3. Is there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the bobbin case? 4. Is thread from bobbin case tangled? 15 ADJUSTING TENSIONS TOP THREAD Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another. The required tension depends upon the stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being se,wn, as well as the type of stitch you are making. i!ilii ! It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before starting to make a garment. Use the straight stitch function as shown at the right. ADJUSTING TENSIOH_ BOBBIN Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread tension. If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads. Be sure to balance them. When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with a screw driver. 16 : .......... ........... !!if{( _ ........... .... ART N( TO SEW Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: 1. Test the needle it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers. 2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam. 3. Test the machine double thickness. your fabric. stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable be to 4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam. 5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew. 6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam. 7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point. 8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered. 9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward Never pull or hold the you. 17 SIMPLE SEWING STRAIGHT ........... STITCHI IC Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch selector _' Stitch length control 12 to6 Presser foot v You will find in garment and permanent. construction that you are doing two types of sewing-temporary 1. Temporary stitching-Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are: Basting Stay stitching Guide line marking 2. Permanent stitching. This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together. Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good looking. The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics the middle range of the Stitch Length Control. You must remember to lengthen the stitch and thicker seams. Some of these seams are: Common two layer seams Curved two layer seams Top stitched three layer seams Top stitched four layer seams for is 10-12 stitches heavier fabrics, When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area. 18 per inch. This is in multiple thickness, layers of fabric sew slowly and FASTENING A SEAM Be sure both threads are drawn under the presser foot. Lower into fabric about 1/2 inch from ning of seam. Turn thereverse control clockwise and stitch in back needle beginstitch reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. Release control and complete seam. When you reach the end, turn the control clockwise and sew back over 1/2 inch of completed seam. TURNING i ; }i A SQUARE CORNER To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown. Raise the presser fopt, turn fabric. New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction. 19 ZIGZAG Top STITCHING thread tension control 0 to 4 Stitch selector / Stitch length control 24 to 6 Presser foot This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons. Using the range of widths as indicated on the central dial, you can sew any width you desire. Since this is a range, you may set the dial between the illustrated widths. The following potential. 20 pages will give you directions for utilizing your machine to its greatest CHECKING TENSIONS The easiest way to check tensions is to sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric you will be using. UNDESIRABLE •.... ::::;::';_::,.-;_ DESIRABLE ;i::::::;:;,':t:;::;.. Use the ...."..... ..... ........ "" ".... i i: !iii needle. different colors of thread on the bobbinUseand upper spool. "'_::;:"":'°.......... "'"'"'" ........ " " ........... "'°i .............. Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches. The bobbin thread should not show on the top of the fabric. "':-'_'_:' ":'::::-': 1,:;::::o .-':::::,: °.... ' .... ""::":;" .................... Adjust the top tension if necessary to achieve the stitch formation mentioned above. ._'_",:':;_., appropriate type of thread and ._. .... ii;:;:': _: ....... ": ":":::: "..... ,_; TOP SIDE OF FABRIC OVERCASTING Fig. 1 This is one of the more frequently used zigzag stitches in garment construction. You may want to overcast along the raw edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw edge toward the garment and stitch. Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished. Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched. Fig. 2 Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling. INTERFACING / I t / I I / DARTS To reduce bulk of interfacing darts, cut interfacing down center between dart lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line from point to wide end of dart. Trim 'both raw edges close to stitching. 21 STRETCH AND UTILITY STITCH SEWING STRETCH ....... STITCHING The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and.knit stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection. fabrics. These are special 1. Straight Stretch 2. Rickrack Stretch 3. Overcast Stretch /\/ \/\ /\/ \/\ /\/ 4. Smocking Stretch 5. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch \/\ /\/ \/\ /\/ \/\ ./\/ @ @ ®@ ® ADJUSTING STRETCH STITCH BALANCE In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length Control should be in the detent position between S and L ( • position) for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric used, you may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches of stretch sewing with reverse motion stitches. To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly toward "S". To lengthen, turn toward "L". R ECO _/!_/1E N D A,T ION 1. It is recommended that the "Q" needle and "Q" foot be used for sewing knits and synthetic fabrics. 2. It may be with very is usually away from 22 necessary to use a backing soft fabrics. Tissue paper available. It can be torn seam after sewing. STRAIGHT STITCHING STRETCI4 Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Presser foot Stitch selector Stitch length control Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric and other fabrics that stretch. Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming. The seam may be pressed open as with any regular seam, but will stretch if necessary. This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric. Any seam that will receive a great deal of strain when worn should be sewn with the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts and slacks as well as adult sports clothes. 23 OVERCAST STRETCH 5 rSTCHING Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Presser foot Stitch Stitch selector length control This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sportswear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to 1/4". The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It must be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch. Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished. Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling. 26 8ERGING OR PINE STRETCiI STtt LEAF / 6i-_tt,_ Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Stitch selector / Presser foot Stitch length control The ser_ling or pine leaf stretch stitch is equally useful with woven and knitted fabrics. This stitch can be used in making elastic swimwear, as well as overcasting a neat edge on the seams. 27 BUTTONHOLE MAKING 7Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Stitch / selector / Presser foot Stitch . length control Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment. Place the fabric with the buttonhole marked under the buttonhole foot. Pull the guide foot (A) all the way forward so that the index mark (B) is aligned with the graduation (C), with thread to rear. (Reproduction of the identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the graduations on the left side of the buttonhole guide foot. These graduations are 1/5" apart. Graduations act as reference mark.) 28 • . ." . Set stitch selector at J_ forward until you approach Stitch "the bot- tom marking of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the right stitch and raise the needle to its highest position by turning hand-wheel toward you manually. , Set stitch selector at _ and bartack 5 or 6 stitches at the bottom mark of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch. Raise needle to its highest position by turning handwheel toward you. 4. Set stitch selector at _ and sew the other side of the buttonhole until you approach the top marking of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch. Raise the needle to its highest position. 5. Set stitch selector at _ again and bartack 5 or 6 stitches to finish the buttonhole, Always make a practice buttonhole hole with the button you will use. on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the button- Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissue paper or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used. For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly. 29 ADJUSTING BUTTONHOLE STITCH BALANCE If the stitching on both sides of the buttonhole does not have the same density, adjust-by turning the adjuster. Using a screw driver, make a slight adjustment to left (+) increase the density of the left side; turn to the right (-) to increase the density of the right side. Both sides should be similar in appearance. After sewing buttonholes, return adjuster to original position as shown in illus" tration at left. SHELL STITCHING AL_j__/__iA L SETTINGS StitchSelector ........ _ StitchLength Control . .. 18 Zigzag PresserFoot When sewing this stitch, allow needle to just clear the right edge of the fabric when it zigzags. NOTE: You may need to increase your slightly to achieve the shell affect. 3O tension B INDHE!ViMING Top thread control _/--7\i-_/- tension 0 to 4 Presser Stitch Stitch Green foot Edgestitcher_ if available selector length control Zone to 8 / nside of Dress ed Edge Fig. 1 1. Finish desire. width. edge of hem anyway you Turn up hem appropriate (Fig. 1) Foot Fig. 3 3. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment. (Fig. 3) Right Side of • Finished Hem _d Edge Fig. 2 2. Fold garment away from hem leaving 1/8" of hem edge extending. (Fig. 2} Fig. 4 4. Press both sides of the finished hem. The right side of the garment will show only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4) 31 SATIN STITCHING Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Stitch Presser foot Stitch Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches, appliqueing, bar tacking or sewing on buttons. selector length This is an attractive control stitch used for Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension thread slightly. The wider the stitch sewn the looser the tension. of the top If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the top side of the fabric. It is best to practice a sample design on a fabric scrap before sewing design on garment. APPL!QUEtNG SETTINGS Same as with Satin Stitching Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place, Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color. 32 7fPPER APP{, fCi:,i i()i'_, SETTINGS t m Stitch Selector ........ Stitch Length Control Zipper Foot. ,,, . . . 12 REGU! )er foot _R ZIPPER mg screw Thumb Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper. See Fig. 2. Follow the zipper manufacturer's instructions. _ screw Needle (right) After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch. entr,, Fig. 1 TNVISIBLE ZIPPER Pin or baste zipper to fabric and place the work in position under the presser foot. Loosen the zipper foot adjusting screw to set the foot on the left side of the needle, and sew the left side zipper as shown. (Fig. 1) To sew the rightside zipper, loosen the screw and bring the foot to the right side of the needle. CORDING Foot can also be used to make cording for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in Fig. 3. NOTE: Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible zipper" and "cording", which can be obtained at any stores of Sears Roebuck and Co. 33 MENDING ". A,^, A V V V V A V / SETTINGS Stitch Selector ........ Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot ........ .... _i . . . Green Zone to 24 iii!iiii!iii!iiii!ii!i !¸¸ , i!!i!i! i!iiii!i!i!iill i iiiiii!iii To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center. It is wel! to use a piece Of fabric under the tear for reinforcement. D A R N t _\:G SETTINGS I Stitch Selector ............ Stitch Length Control . . . Presser Foot Pressure .... III t111 8 to 10 0 Zigzag Presser Foot Use Darning plate (See page 9) Stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered. Lower presser bar and sew at a slow speed moving fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover darning area. When it is covered, turn fabric 1/4 a turn and sew layer of stitching across first layer. If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole area, you may want to put a separate piece under the hole for reinforcement. Be sure to return pressure on presser foot to original adjustment after darning. (See page 6) 34 BU IQ_ Xi::W[':" SETTINGS Stitch Selector ........ Must be adjusted Use Darning plate (See page 9) Zigzag Presser Foot 1. Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely. 2. Turn hand wheel manually needle point is just above button. until 3. Adjust stitch selector so needle enters right hole of button. 4. Turn hand wheel by hand so needle enters second hole. The stitch selector may need to be adjusted again. Stitch a number of times. NOTE: You may find it helpful to use transparent tape to position your button and to keep it in place during sewing. Tear away after stitching. 5. Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining. Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie. BAR TACKING SETTINGS Stitch Selector ........ Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot _ . . . tO Green Zone This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches. 35 FREE-ARM SEWING This sewing machine can be used like flat bed machine, but easily converts free arm machine by removing the tension table. The free arm enables you to sew tubu types of pieces more easily. Just slip t sleeve or pants leg on the free arm shown above. You will find many uses for this free ar feature such as: 1. Mend elbows more easily. and knees of garmer 2. Sew in sleeves more especially true when garments, easily. sewing This small 3. Applique, embroider or hem arout edges of cuffs or pants legs. 4. Sewing in elastic casings in skirts pants at the waistline. 36 e it gently, )resser foot. needle )r po sh_off burrs completely. plate, or polish off burrs completely. Do:'riot pull fabric; guide itgently. Choose',correct size needle for thread Reset needle. and fabric, a seam be sure to draw both:-threads about 4 "_and holduntil a few under and stitches ;'! rmed. is(s). }resser foot. ead shou e size and kind. ii!_i!!_ili!!ii! iiiii_iii!i_iii_i _i_i_i_ _i_ii!_i_i'i ¸'_iiii _ _ _i ¸ _ iO _!_ _o_ _ _. "_: No _ .......... ....... i !iiii 38 '\RING FOR THE MA,CHINE : !:t_R!_R!_ FEED DOGS AND SEiUTTLE Fig. 1 Cleaning brush. the feed dogs with a To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times. Using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle area and around the feed dogs. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle To Clean the Shuttle . Assembly Area: This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case. 2. Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out. 3. Clean brush. the shuttle race with small 4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race. (see arrows} ..... i ,¸,t,o ..... ooo cover : To Replace Shuttle Assembly: 1. Position shuttle race as illustrated so that race is forming half moon on the left side of the machine. . Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook will be on the bottom. 3. Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle assembly. 4. Snap the levers into position. 39 OILING UNDER ARM COVER PLATE Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated, in top of machine head. To remove cover plate, loosen uptwo top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated below. 40 OILING UNDERSIDE Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers to oil points indicated on underside of machine. To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B), (C), and (D) as shown below. B D ,/ C OILING _N FACE COVER Open face cover 42 PLATE plate and oil points in illustration. PARTS LIST 7 2 3 8 9 13 19 14 4 10 15 16 5 6 11 12 18 17 2O 21 22 PARTS LIST All parts listed herein WHEN ORDERING MATION: may be ordered REPAIR from PARTS, 1. PART NUMBER 3. MODEL NUMBER any Sears store or service ALWAYS GIVE center. THE FOLLOWING 2. PART DESCRIPTION 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling. Ref. No. INFOR- Part No. transmitted Description 1 47 Shuttle 2 6510 Bobbin case 3 *6862 Bobbin box with 4 1939 Bobbin winder 5 8286 Thread spool 6 2273 Nylon 7 6550 No. 9 Single needles (BRN) 6551 needles (ORG) 6552 No. 11 Single No. 14 Single needles (RED) 6553 No. 16 Single needles (PUR) 6554 No. 18 Single needles (GRN) 8 9 10 11 12 36353 Needle 687O clamp Buttonhole with guide 13 14 *6864 15 6797 16 40164 Light bulb Motor belt 33379 Motor Zipper foot Zipper foot Needle threader foot belt 17 6830 18 41670 Large screw driver 19 41669 Small screw driver 20 *6889 Oil and lint 21 *6530 Flower 647821008 screw Standard zigzag foot Satin stitch foot 593401008 *6757 22 ring disc "Q NEEDLES-- 40390 rubber pin *6746 648801005 10 bobbins Buttonhole Darnin_t opener brush stitch plate attachment USING PORTABLE CASE OR CABaN.ET A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Whenever you're ready to sew, so is your sewing place. Another option.., buy a Carrying Case. . then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored anywhere. MEMO MEMO MEMO SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine. See page 2 for location. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR FOLLOWING INFORMATION: *MODEL NUMBER *NAME PARTS, ALWAYS OF ITEM *PART GIVE THE DESCRIPTION If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling. SEARS, ROEBUCK S-385 AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 Printed in Taiwan U.S.A. Par:[ No. 648800071 WARRANTY FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE .... HEAD For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, charge, repair defects in material or workmanship appear in the sewing machine head. free of which FULL EQUIP- ! i !!2 i!!i;ili]iii!i!iiiii'i!ii!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii i_ ¸ c_?!:,i.,_. - TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL MENT OF SEWING MACHINE For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including motor, wiring, switch and speed control. _ ..... _i FULL _i;::_;i_::.i!:i!b;: 90-DAY MECHANICAL WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND ADJUSTMENTS -.--.... For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, charge, replace any parts and provide mechanica necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, for normal maintenance. free of service except _J E To obtain warranty service described above, SIMPLY CONTACT THE NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN THE UNITED STATES. This warranty is n use in the United States. applies only This warranty gives you specific legal rights, other rights which vary from state to state. SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Dept. 698/731A, while and you Sears Tower, this product may also have Chicago, IL 60684 ,_ ._= ,l|l. -_ ..........ii: :....... '111,.-4_ d!ll, _ 'Ill!. _ 'ill,, _ '11t,._ -'llll. -_ 'lll,,-'_ '!I1,. _ 'llll. -'_ '!11,"_ '1lt*. @ 'Ill,, @ '!tI_. €_ 'll]_. -_ 'llll_
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