Kenmore 38515208400 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0311085

KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Manual L0311085 KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Mechanical Sewing installation guides

User Manual: Kenmore 38515208400 38515208400 KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #38515208400. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore SEWING MACHINE Manual

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SERVICE MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE MODEL
385. 15208400
OCTOBER, 2003
CONTENTS
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS .................................................................
WIND THE BOBBIN ..............................................................................................
PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD ..........................................................................
STITCH SELECTOR /STITCH LENGTH/STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS .............
WHAT TO DO WHEN ............................................................................................
SERVICEACCESS
FACECOVER ......................................................................................
FRONT COVER ....................................................................................
REAR COVER ......................................................................................
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION .....................................................................................
BOBBIN TENSION ...............................................................................
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT ALIGNMENT ................................................
NEEDLE SWING ..................................................................................
NEEDLE DROP ....................................................................................
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.l) ......................
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.2) ......................
FEED DOG HEIGHT ............................................................................
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ........................................................................
NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE ..........................................................
BUTTONHOLE FEED BALANCE .........................................................
BARTACK FEED OF BUTTONHOLE ...................................................
DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER ..........................................
MOTOR BELT TENSION .....................................................................
WIRING ..............................................................................................................
OILING ..............................................................................................................
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED ..............................................................................
1
2
3
4
5-7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
Vl.0
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15208400
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS
Bobbin Winder Thread guide
Thread Guide
Thread Take-up Lever.
Spool Pins
Bobbin Winding Spindle
JBobbin Winding Stopper
Top thread tension Control _.
Face Plate
Stitch Width Dial
Stitch Length Dial
_rDial
Thread Cutter__
Reverse Stitch Button
Extension Table (Accessory storage box)
Presser Foot Holder_
Carrying Handle
\\\\\
J
J
Presser Footj
Needle Clamp
Needle
Handwheel \
-- Presser Foot Lifter
Power Switch /
Machine _ocket
Free Arm
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15208400
WIND THE BOBBIN
1. PULL THE HANDWHEEL OUT.
2. DRAW THREAD FROM SPOOL THROUGH BOBBIN WINDING TENSION DISCS (A).
3. PULL END OF THREAD THROUGH BOBBIN AS SHOWN.
PLACE BOBBIN ONTO BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE (B) WITH END OF THREAD COMING
FROM THE TOP OF THE BOBBIN.
PUSH BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE TO THE RIGHT UNTIL IT CLICKS.
4. HOLDING THE END OF THREAD, START MACHINE. WHEN BOBBIN IS SLIGHTLY
FILLED, SNIP OFF THE END OF THREAD.
5. WIND THREAD UNTIL BOBBIN STOPS. REMOVE BOBBIN.
6. PUSH THE HANDWHEEL TO THE LEFT.
A, \\\\\
Place bobbin in bobbin case making 2
sure thread feeds clockwise and is
coming from bobbin as shown.
Pull thread through slot of case as
shown.
' S
3 Pull thread under tension spring
and through the opening as shown
above.
S
4
/
Holding latch open, position case
into shuttle and release latch.
S
J
5 Case should lock into place when latch
is released.
2
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD
THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS.
DOTTED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN IS PULLED TIGHT.
RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL
TOWARD YOU.
RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER.
PLACE SPOOL ON PIN WITH THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL.
1. DRAW THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE.
2. HOLDING THREAD TAUT WITH RIGHT HAND, DRAW THREAD DOWN INTO THE
TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER.
3. FIRMLY DRAW THREAD UP AND THROUGH THE TAKE-UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO
LEFT.
4. DRAW THE THREAD DOWN AND SLIP IT INTO THE LOWER THREAD GUIDE.
5. DRAW THREAD DOWN AGAIN AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GUIDE.
6. TREAD NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK.
NOTE: YOU MAY WANT TO CUT THE END OF THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS FOR
EASIER NEEDLE THREADING.
\
3
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15208400
s
STITCH SELECTOR /STITCH LENGTH/
STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS
SETTING MARK
/
/
J
pATerE RN "" -,
/
8H 1 _ 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 '_
/
BH 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
s
SETTING\ MARK
\\\
S_TCH LENGTH
420
I
I
I
I
Setting Mark _0 1 2345_
4
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15208400
WHAT TO DO WHEN
CONDITION CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE
1. SKIPPING
STITCHES
2. FABRIC NOT
MOVING
1. NEEDLE IS NOT INSERTED
PROPERLY.
2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN.
3. INCORRECTLY THREADED
4. NEEDLE OR THREAD ARE
INAPPROPRIATE FOR
FABRIC BEING SEWN.
5. SEWING ON STRETCH
FABRIC
6. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
BAR HEIGHT
7. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
TO HOOK TIMING
8. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE
TO HOOK CLEARANCE
1. INCORRECT F.D. HEIGHT
2. THREAD ON BOTTOM SIDE
OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP.
3. FEED DOG TEETH ARE
WORN,
INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY.
CHANGE THE NEEDLE,
RETHREAD.
USE THE RECOMMENDED
SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD.
USE A#11 BLUE TIP NEEDLE,
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE
TIMING TO SHUTTLE".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"CLEARANCE
BETWEEN NEEDLE AND
HOOK".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "FEED DOG
HEIGHT".
MAKE SURE TO BRING
BOTH NEEDLE AND BOBBIN
THREAD UNDER THE FOOT
WHEN STARTING SEWING.
CHANGE THE FEED DOG.
P.19
P.20
P.16,17
P.18
5
SEWING MACHINE DIV.20 MODEL 385. 15208400
CONDITION
&BREAKING
UPPER
THREAD
4. BREAKING
BOBBIN
THREAD
5. NEEDLE
BREAKS
CAUSE REFERENCE
1. INITIAL SEWING SPEED IS
TOO FAST.
2. THREAD PATH IS
INCORRECT.
3. NEEDLE IS BENT OR DULL,
4. UPPER THREAD TENSION IS
TOO STRONG.
5. NEEDLE SIZE IS
INAPPROPRIATE FOR
FABRIC.
6. NEEDLE EYE IS WORN,
7. NEEDLE HOLE IN NEEDLE
PLATE IS WORN OR BURRED,
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
INCORRECTLY THREADED
BOBBIN CASE,
TOO MUCH THREADIS
AROUND ON THEBOBBIN.
LINT IS STUCK INSIDE THE
BOBBIN HOLDER,
THREAD QUALITYIS
TOO LOW.
THREADISJAMMING
AROUNDTHEBOBBIN.
BOBBINTHREADTENSIONIS
TOO STRONG.
1. NEEDLE IS HITTING THE
NEEDLE PLATE.
2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN.
3. NEEDLE IS HITTING THE
HOOK RACE.
4.
5.
THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE
THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING
IT, OR THE NEEDLE ZIGZAGS
WHILE IN FABRIC.
FABRIC IS BEING PULLED TOO
STRONGLY WHILE SEWING.
HOW TO FIX
START WITH MEDIUM SPEED.
USE THE PROPER THREAD
PATH.
REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE.
ADJUST UPPER THREAD
TENSION CORRECTLY,
USE APPROPRIATE NEEDLE
AND THREAD FOR FABRIC
IN USE.
CHANGE THE NEEDLE.
REPAIR THE HOLE OR
REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE.
THREAD BOBBIN CASE
CORRECTLY.
ADJUST THE POSITION OF
STOPPER,
CLEAN THE HOOK RACE.
CHANGETO A HIGH QUALITY
SEWING THREAD.
CLEAR OUTTHEJAMMING
THREAD,
ADJUST BOBBIN THREAD
TENSION CORRECTLY,
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLEDROP."
CHANGETHENEEDLE.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "CLEARANCE
BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "NEEDLE SWING".
GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY
WHILE SEWING.
P.11
P.12
P.15
P.16, 17
P.14
6
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
CONDITION
6. NOISY
OPERATION
7. DEFORMATION
PATTERN
CAUSE HOW TO FIX REFERENCE
P.171. BACKLASH BETWEEN
SHUTTLE HOOK GEAR AND
LOWERSHAFTGEARISTOO
GREAT.
2. LOWER SHAFT GEARIS
LOOSE.
&INAPPROPRIATE BELT
TENSION.
4. UPPERSHAFTGEARISLOOSE.
5. NOT ENOUGH OIL.
1. INAPPROPRIATE ZIGZAG
SYNCHRONIZATION.
2. INAPPROPRIATE
DISENGAGEMENT OFCAM
FOLLOWER.
3. UPPERTHREADTENSlON
IS TOO STRONG.
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT "CLEARANCE
BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOt_
(NO.2)".
ELIMINATE THE LOOSENESS
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"MOTOR BELT
TENSION".
ELIMINATETHELOOSENESS.
OIL ALL MOVING PARTS,
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
SWING".
SEE MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENT
"DISENGAGEMENT OFCAM
FOLLOWER".
ADJUST UPPER THREAD
TENSION CORRECTLY,
P.24
P.14
P.23
P.11
7
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
SERVICE ACCESS
FACE COVER
s
\
(B)
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER (A).
2. REMOVE THE SCREWS (B).
3. TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF.
8
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400
SERVICE ACCESS
FRONT COVER
A
E
G
CAP
\\
FRONT COVER
f
D
H
/
J
TO REMOVE
1. LOOSEN THE SET SCREWS (A), (B),AND (C), AND THEN, REMOVE THE FRONT COVER
BY REMOVING THE SET SCREWS (D) ,(E),(F),(G),(H),(I)AND (J).
NOTE: UNHOOK THE TAB (L) FROM THE REAR COVER WHEN REMOVING THE
FRONT COVER.
TO ATTACH
2. FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN REVERSE.
9
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400
SERVICE ACCESS
REAR COVER
A
B
F\\
c
TO REMOVE
1. REMOVE THE FACE COVER AND FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 8, 9)
2. LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS (A), (B) AND (C), AND REMOVE SETSCREWS (D), (E) AND
(F).
3. PULL UP THE SPOOL PINS. REMOVE THE MACHINE SOCKET. REMOVE THE REAR
COVER CLEARING THE PRESSER FOOT LIFTER FROM THE SLIT ON THE COVER.
TO ATTACH
4. FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN REVRSE.
lO
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION
TO CHECK:
THE STANDARD UPPER THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 65 - 95g WHEN PULLING THE
THREAD (COTTON THREAD #50) IN THE DIRECTION OF (B) WITH SETTING THE TENSION
DIAL AT "3". (MAKE SURE THE FOOT SHOULD BE LOWERED.)
IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE STANDARD RANGE, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS:
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE FRONT COVER UNIT. (SEE PAGE 9.)
2. TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF (D) WHEN THE UPPER THREAD
TENSION IS TOO TIGHT.
TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF (E) WHEN THE UPPER THREAD
TENSION IS TOO LOOSE.
3. ATTACH THE FRONT COVER UNIT.
C
\\\
11
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
BOBBIN TENSION
TO CHECK:
SET THE BOBBIN IN THE BOBBIN CASE AND PASS THE THREAD (COTTON #50) THROUGH
THE TENSION SPRING.
THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 45 - 55g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD IN THE
DIRECTION OF (B).
IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE RANGE, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS:
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF (D) WHEN THE BOBBIN
THREAD TENSION IS TOO TIGHT.
2. TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF (E) WHEN THE BOBBIN
THREAD TENSION IS TOO LOOSE.
(B)
t
COTTON THREAD #50
12
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT
TO CHECK:
1. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (A).
2. THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT (D) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (E)
SHOULD BE 6.0MM (0.24").
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE SCREW (B) AND TAKE THE LAMP SOCKET OFF.
2. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND LOOSEN THE SCREW (C) ON THE PRESSER
BAR HOLDER.
ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT (D) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE
(E) TO 6.0MM (0.24").
3. TIGHTEN THE SCREW (C) SECURELY.
4. TIGHTEN THE SCREW (B) TO SECURE THE LAMP SOCKET.
NOTE: WHENYOU TIGHTEN THE SCREW (B), MAKE SURETHAT BOTH SIDES OFTHE
PRESSER FOOT ARE PARALLEL TO THE FEED DOG SLOTS (F) ON THE
NEEDLE PLATE.
.... ""-. (A)
ri S,_, (F)
i(O)
6.OMM
13
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE SWING
TO CHECK:
ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING ACCORDING TO THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE, IF THE
NEEDLE BAR STARTS MOVING SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC AT
SEWING THE ZIGZAG PATTERN (WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH).
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH, AND REMOVE
THE FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 9.)
2. LOOSEN TWO SET SCREWS.
3. ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL, WHILE HOLDING THE
WORM SO AS NOT TO ROTATE IT, UNTIL THE NEEDLE SWING STARTS AT 2 - 3MM
ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AFTER THE NEEDLE HAS COME OUT OF THE RIGHT SIDE
OF THE NEEDLE HOLE.
4. TIGHTEN TWO SET SCREWS.
5. MOUNT THE FRONT COVER.
NOTE: AFTER ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE SWING, CHECK THAT THE UPPER SHAFT
WORM AND GEAR ROTATE SMOOTHLY WITHOUT ANY BACKLASH BETWEEN
THEM.
UPPER SHAFT WORM
GEAR
I2-3 MM
SETSCREW
_PCS.)
14
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE DROP
TO CHECK:
WHEN THE NEEDLE SWINGSIN MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH, THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE
BOTH
ENDS OF NEEDLE HOLE ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND THE NEEDLE DROP POSITIONS
SHOULD BE EQUAL.
IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS:
ADJUSTMENTPROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE FACE PLATE.
2. SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH.
3. LOOSEN THE SET SCREW.
4. TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN TO ADJUST THE NEEDLE DROP.
5. TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW.
NOTE: CHECK THE HOOK TIMING AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT.
SET SCREW
ECCENTRIC PIN
BOTH CLEARANCE SHOULD BE EQUAL
15
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.l)
TO CHECK:
THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 -+0.10MM.
IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS:
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE FACE COVER. i
2. SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL " C i 3 ", WIDTH SELECTOR DIAL AT" 0 "
3. LOOSEN SET SCREW (A), AND MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO ARROWS
TO GET CLEARANCE BETWEEN -0.05 TO +0.10MM.
* WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO WIDE, MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO
DIRECTION (B).
* WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO NARROW, MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO
DIRECTION (C).
NOTE: AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT, CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE
AND NEEDLE PLATE IS MORE THAN 0.15MM AS SHOWN IN FIGURE (D).
IF NOT, ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE
BY USING METHOD OF ADJUSTMENT NO.2 IN PAGE 13 AFTER READJUST THE
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND NEEDLE PLATE MORE THAN 0.15MM.
SETSCREW_
DIRECTION B
NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER
-0.05-+0. IOMM
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND
NEEDLE PLATE IS MORE THAN
O.15MM
16
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.2)
TO CHECK:
USE THIS ADJUSTMENT NO.2 WHEN ADJUSTMENT NO.1 CAN NOT BE USED.
THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 - +0.10mm.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT "C i D ", WIDTH SELECTOR DIAL AT" 0 ".
2. REMOVE THE REAR COVER. (SEE PAGE 10.)
3. LOOSEN THE SCREW (A) ON LOWER SHAFT BUSHING AND SLIDE THE GEAR ABOUT
0.5MM TO THE RIGHT TO MAKE A SLACK BETWEEN GEARS.
4. LOWER THE NEEDLE AND LOOSEN THE TWO SHUTTLE RACE SET SCREWS (B).
MOVE THE SHUTTLE RACE UNIT AXIALLY EITHER FORWARD OR BACKWARD TO
ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND THE SHUTTLE RACE IN THE
RANGE OF -0.05 - +0.10MM.
5. SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL AT" _ ", TURN THE BALANCE WHEEL TO
CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND INNER EDGES OF THE
SHUTTLE RACE SPRING AT THE LEFT AND RIGHT NEEDLE DROPS ARE EQUAL.
IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT BY TURNING THE SHUTTLE RACE UNIT.
6. TIGHTEN THE TWO SHUTTLE RACE SET SCREWS (B).
7. LOOSEN THE SET SCREW ON LOWER SHAFT BUSHING AND SLIDE THE GEAR BACK
TO THE ORIGINAL POSITION WHILE ADJUSTING THE BACKLASH.
8. TIGHTEN THE SCREW (A) FIRMLY.
9. ATTACH THE REAR COVER.
NOTE: THE BACKLASH PLAY SHOULD BE LESS THAN 0.3MM AND LOWER SHAFT
TURNS SMOOTHLY.
AFTER THE ADJUSTMENT, CHECK THE HOOK TIMING.
SET SCREW B (2 PCS.)
BUSHING (FRONT)
CLEARANCE SHOULD BE EQUAL
\\
SHUTTLE RACE SPRING
17
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
FEED DOG HEIGHT
MACHINE SETTING
1. STITCH LENGTH: SET AT 4.
2. NEEDLE BAR: AT ITS HIGHEST POSITION.
TO CHECK:
1. RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT.
2. PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE #68367 (A) ON THE NEEDLE PLATE.
3. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND AND CHECK THE FEED DOG
HEIGHT. REFER TO CHART BELOW.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER.
2. LOOSEN THE SCREW (B) AND TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN (C) IN EITHER DIRECTION
TO ADUST THE FEED DOG HEIGHT AS REQUIRED.
3. TIGHTEN THE SCREW (B) SECURELY.
FACE (A)
1.25MM
NOT MOVING
NOT MOVING
MOVING
GAUG
FACE (B) (RED)
1.00MM
MOVING
NOT MOVING
MOVING
EFEED DOG HEIGHT
CORRECT
LOW
HIGH
(A) #68367
\
(c)
18
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT
MACHINE SETTING
1. STITCH SELECTOR: "C i Z)".
i
2. WIDTH SELECTOR DIAL: SET AT 5
TO CHECK:
1. OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER.
2. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A).
3. REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B)
ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER.
4. TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR
REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION.
5. THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO
HORIZONTAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B).
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. LOOSEN THE SCREW (C) OF THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER (D).
2. MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR (E) UP OR DOWN BY HAND UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST
PIN #68368 (A) COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO HORIZONTAL PARALLEL LINES
ENGRAVE ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B).
3. TIGHTEN THE SCREW (C) SECURELY.
(B)#68366
THIS END OF THE
SHUTTLE HOOK
DRIVER IS TO
TOUCH THE GAUGE (A)#68368 l!
19
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385 15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE
MACHINE SETTING i
I
1STITCH SELECTOR: "C : D
2 WIDTH SELECTOR DIAL: SET AT 5
TO CHECK:
1. OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER.
2. REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A).
3 REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B)
ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER.
4 TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR
REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION.
5 THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL
LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B).
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1REMOVE THE BELT COVER AND THE FRONT COVER.
2. LOOSEN THE SCREWS (C) AND (D).
3 ROTATE THE SHUTTLE DRIVER UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) COMES
IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING
GAUGE #68366 (B).
4. TIGHTEN THE SCREWS (C) AND (D) SECURELY.
5 ATTACH THE FRONT COVER, THE BASE PLATE, AND THE BELT COVER.
THIS END OF THE (B) #68366
SHUTTLE HOOK _)
THE GAUGE _,_
•, = .-_."
m
<-"
Cd, .
iJ.: •
i_ I. ..
.• _.-,
.1..
(c)
\
(O)
2O
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
BUTTONHOLEFEEDBALANCE
TO CHECK:
WHEN SEWING BUTTONHOLE, THE STITCHES ON EACH SIDE OF BUTTONHOLE
SHOULD BE THE SAME STITCH DENSITY.
THE RANGE OF 9-12 STITCHES IN THE RIGHT SIDE ROW "BACKWARD FEEDING"
AGAINST 10 STITCHES IN THE LEFT SIDE ROW "FORWARD FEEDING" IS CONSIDERED
ACCEPTABLE.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. CONFIRM THE STITCHES BY SEWING BUTTONHOLES, AND REMOVE THE CAP.
2. TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF (C) IN CASE OF (A) (RIGHT
STITCHES ARE ROUGH), OR IN THE DIRECTION OF (D) IN CASE OF (B) (LEFT
STITCHES ARE ROUGH).
3. MOUNT THE CAP.
A B
x 0 x
/ \ \\\\\
/\\
FORWARD FEEDING BACKWARD FEEDING
(c)
CAP
NOTCH
JADJUSTING SCREW
21
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
BARTACKFEED OFBUTTONHOLE
TO CHECK:
IF THE MATERIAL IS FEED FORWARD OR BACKWARD WHEN SEWING BARTACK ON
BUTTONHOLE, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT AS FOLLOWS:
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR CONTROL AT " _ " AND THE STITCH LENGTH
CONTROL AT "4".
2. REMOVE THE FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 9.)
3. PLACE A PIECE OF PAPER UNDER THE FOOT AND TURN THE HANDWHEEL.
IF THE PAPER IS FEED FORWARD, TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE
DIRECTION OF (C).
IF THE PAPER IS FEED BACKWARD, TURN THE ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE
DIRECTION OF (D).
4. MOUNT THE FRONT COVER.
FORWARD FEEDING
BACKWARD FEEDING
ADJUSTING SCREW
22
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISENGAGEMENT OF CAM FOLLOWER
TO CHECK:
TOO NARROW CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE CAM FOLLOWER AND THE TOP CONVEX OF
ZIGZAG CAM MAY OFTEN CAUSE DIFFICULTY IN TURNING OF THE PATTERN SELECTOR
DIAL, OR CAN NOT CORRECT PATTERN.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL " • i • "AND SET THE STITCH WIDTH AT "5".
2. REMOVE THE FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 9.)
3. PUT THE CAM FOLLOWER TO THE ZIGZAG CAM (STRAIGHT CAM), AND ALSO PUT
THE CAM FOLLOWER RELEASING ARM TO THE PATTERN SELECT CAM.
4. LOOSEN THE SETSCREW.
5. MOVE ADJUSTING PLATE IN THE DIRECTION OF ARROW UNTIL TO TOUCH TO THE
RELEASING ARM AND TIGHTEN SETSCREW.
NOTE: AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT, CHECK THAT THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE
ZIGZAG CAM AND THE CAM FOLLOWER IS 0.3MM WHEN PUTTING THE CAM
FOLLOWER RELEASING ARM ONTO POSITION (A) OF PATTERN SELECT
CAM.
6. ATTACH THE FRONT COVER.
J
ZZ CAM
PATTERN SELECTOR CAM
_.. ADJUSTING
PLATE
-RELEAS ARM
SETSCREW(A)
RELEASE ARM
23
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
MOTOR BELT TENSION
TO CHECK:
1. IF THE MOTOR BELT TENSION IS TOO TIGHT OR TOO LOOSE, IT CAN CAUSE A
BELT NOISE: IF THE TENSION IS TOO TIGHT, IT CAN CAUSE THE MACHINE TO RUN
SLOWLY AND THE MOTOR TO OVERLOAD; IF THE TENSION IS TOO LOOSE; IT CAN
CAUSE THE BELT TEETH ON THE MOTOR PULLEY TO JUMP.
2. THE CORRECT MOTOR BELT TENSION IS WHEN THE DEFLECTION OF MOTOR
BELT IS ABOUT 7MM (0.28") - 9MM (0.36"). (WHEN PUSHING THE MOTOR BELT BY
FINGER WITH A 300 GRAM LOAD.)
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE:
1. REMOVE THE REAR COVER. (SEE PAGE 10)
2. LOOSEN THE SCREWS (A) AND (B).
3. MOVE THE MOTOR UP OR DOWN TO ADJUST THE DEFLECTION ABOUT 7MM (0.28")
- 9MM (0.36").
4. TIGHTEN THE SCREWS (A) AND (B).
300g
(B)
24
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
WIRING
1. WIRING FOR MACHINE SOCKET UNIT
RIDGE _
/_ RIDGE
M : MOTOR
L : LAMP
M
2. WIRING DIAGRAM
FOOT CONTROL
O
MOTOR ATTACHMENT CAP
L
LAMP
f
r
JJ /
SOCKET
MOTOR
25
SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20 MODEL 385. 15208400
OILING
FACTORY LUBRICATED PARTS WILL PROVIDE YEARS OF HOUSEHOLD SEWING
WITHOUT ROUTINE OILING. HOWEVER, WHENEVER THE MACHINE IS BEING
SERVICED, CHECK TO SEE IF ANY PARTS NEED TO BE LUBRICATED.
OIL
USE GOOD QUALITY SEWING MACHINE OIL AT THE POINTS (A, B, C, D, E)
INDICATED BY BLACK ARROWS.
GREASE
WHITE GREASE IS RECOMMENDED FOR USE ON GEARS AND CAM SURFACES.
IT IS AN IMPROVED GREASE, AND IT CAN BE USED ON THE METAL AND PLASTIC
PARTS WHICH POINTS ARE INDICATED BY THE WHITE ARROWS (F,G, & H).
HOW TO ORDER
PART_ DESCRIPTION
SEWING MACHINE OIL
WHITE GREASEEM /40M
ORDER THROUGH YOUR RPDC IN THE USUAL MANNER; DIVISION 20, SOURCE 158.
• =" ,_=__
"7:-
iB,"
2::°
,,-,_,. _----
• . _ .- _,.%
%.,....-- .--'_
I
%
._,.-.-_ ;f;'_
z
"_"1J_ '/
"-:-: ;_.
G
/F" j'_
L- ;_ #*.-•,_._"
-,,
26
SEWINGMACHINEDIV.20 MODEL385.15208400
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED
_REW DRIVER
FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE
#68367
_W DRIVER
TEST PIN
#68368
ALIEN WRENCH RADIAL TIMING GAUGE
#68366
27

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