Kenmore 3851695180 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0811209
KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Manual L0811209 KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Mechanical Sewing installation guides
User Manual: Kenmore 3851695180 3851695180 KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #3851695180. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore KENMORE SEWING MACHINE Manual
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Kenmope SEWING MACHINE OWNER'S MANU 16951 Seal Canada Inc. Dear" Homemaker: You have just invested Before using your new momenl and carefully instructtons on how to in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Kenmore machine, please pause for a read this booklet which contains operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results for conditions beyond and avoid unnecessary our control. service expense Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire. Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature on Page 2 of this booklet. Model No,385, Retain these numbers plate, as identified Serial No. for future reference. • k KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Machine identification ..................... Accessories ............................ 2 4 Setting spool pins ....................... Converting to free-arm sewing ............... Pressure regulator, Presser feet lever ........... 5 5 6 Presser feet, Speed control plug .............. Light and power switch, Sewing light .......... Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate ....... Needle, thread and fabric chart .............. Needles, Placement of needle ............... Winding the bobbin ...................... Threading the bobbin thread ................ Threading top thread ..................... 7 8 9 10 11 t2 13 14 Picking up bobbin thread .................. Adjusting top thread tensions ............... 15 16 STARTING t7 SIMPLE TO SEW ....................... SEWING Straight stitching ....................... Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner Zigzag stitching .......................... Checking tensions, Overcasting, Interfacing UTILITY AND STRETCH STITCH 18 20 darts SEWING Buttonhole making ...................... Blind hemming .......................... Shell stitching ......................... Box stitching .......................... Fagoting, Two-point shell stitching ........... Satin stitching, Appliqueing ................ Zipper application ...................... Mending, Darning ....................... Button sewing, Bar tacking .................. Stretch stitching ........................ Adjusting stretch stitch balance, Straight stretch, Rick-rack stretch, 22 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 Overcast stretch, Smocking stretch, Serging pine leaf stretch, Elastic stretch, Stretch patching, Herring bone stretch Free-arm sewing .......................... CHECKING CARING PERFORMANCE FOR THE PROBLEMS or ...... PORTABLE 41 MACHINE Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle .............. Oiling under arm cover plate ................ Oiling underside ........................ Oiling in face cover plate .................. Parts list ............................. USING 40 CASE OR CABINET 43 44 45 46 47 ........ 49 KNOW NG MACHUNE YOUR .: =, EWUNG IDENTtFICAT!ON Arm Cover Plate Bobbin Winder *& Upper Thread Guide '\\,. \ "\ Pressure Face Cover Regulato¢ X, Plate Extension Table/ Thread Thread Presser Foot Thumb Needle Spool Screw Plate Pins Presser Foot Free Arm Stretch Light Stitch Electric 2 Adjuster_4_ and Power Switch_ Cord Receptacle_ ._ ! >'4_': Guide Needle Clamp Screw Bobbin Plate Thread Guide Nomenclature Plate Lever Cover 2. Stitch Width Control \ 3. Length Stitch Selector Control ,\ 4, i Stitch Top Thread Tension Control 5. Reverse Stitch Lever "i,_!_i!: _II!I!!_:I_ _!II!I:I:III!: _ii_,ii:_i:_il ,i_:ii_!i;_ _!_iiii _II_ i,iiiii_i:_iil _I! 3 _ACCESSOR_£S .... _ ACC ESSO R l ES Accessory Large screw driver box Buttonhole ,.._/ Satin stitch Darning foot Straight stitch foot plate % _- Buttonhole Zipper guide foot Owner's Foot control \ 4 opener \ manual foot SETTING SPOOL Spool Pins are packed Screw thread spoo! Position spool PINS in accessory box. pins in place securely pin discs and felts with as shown a screw driver. in illustration. Spool Pin:;fett isc _, CONVERTING To the TO FREE-ARM utilize free-arm machine. To return to flat-bed slot of the machine, feature sewing, for sewing reposition Spoo!:.pin SEWING tubular material, the extension remove table the inserting extension table from tabs of the base into 5 PRESSURE REGULATOR Push down the outer ring of the presser foot. (See above) To increase the pressure, Insufficient pressure guiding the fabric, pressure push down regulator° inner pin until may cause poor feeding if feed dogs or presser This will suitable release the pressure pressure on the is obtained. of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce in the pressure. When sewing multiple thickness or heavy when sewing lighter weight fabrics. fabric, reduce the PRESSER pressure, FOOT increase pressure LEVER To aid you in the placement of heavy fabrics under the presser foot, the lever can raise foot beyond the normal "up'" position, This is also an aid in changing your presser feet, 6 PR ESSER FEET To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure. SPEED insert CONTROL the foot control PLUG plug onto the three prong connector as shown at the left. Connect the cord plug into any 1 !0 "" 120 volt AC wall outlet. 7 L_GHT Turn power AND POWER on power switch, i mportant Your :] :; by SW_TCH pushing light and safety featu re machine will not operate unless the light/power switch is turned on, Turning on the power automatically illuminates the whole stitching area. If you're interrupted or stop sewing, turn off light/ power switch. SEWING LIGHT The sewing light is located in the face cover as shown, To replace the bulb, turn the light off and open the face cover. Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise and remove it from the socket. Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise. NOTE: First, unplug the machine prior to removing and replacing the bulb, Be aware that the light bulb may be warm. 8 FOOT CONTROL Step on this control harder you press faster the machine to start to sew. The on the control, the will sew. Slow down by reducing pressure on the You may want to practice your different levels when you first machine, SEAM control, speed at use the GUIDES Seam guides are printed on either side of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ALONG THE RIGHTSIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE 1S THE "ALL IMPORTANT" 5/8" SEAM LINE, The cornering guides are convenient when turning a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge. See next section of this book for directions° DARNING PLATE There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself, Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot. Place darning plate over needle plate aligning two pins of darning plate with holes of needle plate. You may then determine the movement of the fabric yourself. See page 31 for button sewing application, 9 _ii̧ii,iiiiiil;!i!_i_ii!i_!i:ii _¸i_ii_:i:i _i:i:_i_ ¸i_i!::!_i_!_iii_i_ii_!_:_;:i ¸!:_I:,!:_ ¸ii_i ¸::_;_i_!_:_;:____,_i NEEDLE, THREAD :::::=::: :SIZE AND li)ii ii!i i?iiii!ii:!iii ii!;i! i!:!:ii i: i!i!!ii!: i!!ii,ii!i l_i!_:ii_i_i_!_!_:_}_!_!i(_:;i!i_iii!:!: !::_l',,tDFABRIC THREAD CHART SIZE RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap : Fine Mercerized Cotton i Silk A 12 stitches per inch 50 MerCerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 10 to 12 stitches per inch :::::::::::::::::::::::: Buttonhole Twist ::::::::::::::::::::: 8:GREEN :::::1 :(Use as top thread only} FABR iC::N EED LE- 10 ;¸¸!=,:: _,_i_i_=ii:il ¸i̧ii:ii_i!ili!i:i_ii,_,i:_!_ ¸_i_!::_:_=_i:_!:_!_=_:!i!i=;i:_:!!_:i! ¸_I_ 6 stitches per inch 10 to 12 stitches per inch NEEDLES ! C il 1 Use KENMORE needle should needles. The size of the conform with the size of the thread and fabric. Kenmore both should suit the needles are color-coded by size for your on facing page). convenience Never use a bent (See chart needle or one with a dull point, The exact length of your needle is shown at left, Be sure you never use one in your machine length, PLACEMENT Raise needle that is not this exact OF NEEDLE bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you° Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with small screwdriver provided in the accessory box. 11 WGND_NG THE BOBBIN 1. Pull Push-pull Clutch away machine to disengage clutch. 2, Draw bobbin thread winder from tension 30 Pull end of thread bobbin as shown. 4. Place bobbin with top 12 onto from spool through disc as shown. through bobbin hole winder in shaft end of thread coming from the of the bobbin. Push bobbin winder shaft to the right until it clicks. Holding onto et_d of thread, start machine. When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread. 5. Wind thread Remove bobbin. 6. Push in clutch. until winder Clip thread. Push-pull Clutch to stops. engage THREADING t_ Remove "THE BOBBIN the extension 2. Remove the bobbin pulling it toward you down slightly. THREi-_,D table. cover plate by while pushing it 3. Insert bobbin into shuttle making bobbin rotates counter clockwise. sure 4. Pull 4-inches of thread through slot of bobbin case and toward machine as shown. tension back of 5. Close the bobbin cover plate thread to emerge through needle plate. allowing slot in 13 THREADING TOP THREAD Raise thread take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever, Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool, !. Draw thread 2, Draw thread toward you. 3. Draw thread the spring 14 through thread into threading down channel wire as shown, guide, channel and around 4. Draw lever. thread up 5o Draw thread down & through and take-up into thread guide. 6. Thread then is slipped thread guide. 7. Thread needle from into front needle to back. bar P_CKfNG @ UP BOBBIH 1. Raise presser foot THREAD lever. Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn, 2, Bring upper \ bobbin thread, thread up by pulling \ 3, Pull both threads under back of the presser foot, 4 inches of thread clear° If you cannot pick following steps check: 1, is needle back? 2. Is thread Is thread from leaving from around 3. Is there 3 to 4 inches from the shuttle? 4. to the 3 to up bottom thread by given above, then threaded tangled and shuttle front to needle? of thread coming tangled? 15 ADJUSTING TENSIONS TOP THREAD Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension for one fabric may not be correct for another. The required tension depends upon the stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are making. It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before starting to make a garment. Use the straight stitch function as shown at the right. 16 •i•_i•••i :•_•_i • •i•i:• ••••i(••!:(: •••/•!: .... ..................... i:¸ • :-•• : i : ....... • • • • • • ideai straight stitch:will have :threads: locked between the two ::: layers 0f fabric: :: i i too tight [hread too loose STARTHNG Now that provided machine. t , you TO SEW are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: Test the needle: it the correct size for needle frequently° needles more easily sewing should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the than fabrics made of natural fibers° 2., Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine° Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam. 3o-Test the machine double thickness,, your fabric. 4. Fabric should stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, The fabric should Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable be placed under the presser foot with of the needle and the right edge of the material the needle plate when making a simple seam. 5o Run the machine at a slow even speed,. the faster the machine will sew. 6,, Fasten each seam by back tacking 7. Always finish sewing The more at the beginning each seam with the needle the bulk placed of the material on the pressure you 5/8" the hand wheel manually, always seam marking on control, and end of the seam_ at its highest turn to the left put on the foot point,, 8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle, fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered. 9. When turning be to it toward Never pull or hold the you. 17 SIM PL E SEWUN G STRAIGHT STiTCHiNG Stitch I2to6 length Stitch width Stitch 0 selector Top thread tension control 3 to 6 You will find in garment and permanent. 1, Temporary of fabric. construction stitching-Usually The various types Basting Stay stitching Guide line marking that the longest of temporary you are doing two types stitch possible and often stitching are: 2o Permanent stitching. This is the actual stitching that holds of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment Iooking, of sewing-temporary done on a single layer the garment together. Much and therefore must be good The best length stitch to use for medium weight in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control. fabrics is 10-t2 stitches per inch. You must and thicker heavier fabrics, multiple layers remember to lengthen the stitch seams. Some of these seams are: for This is of fabric Common two layer seams Curved two layer seams Top stitched Top stitched three layer seams four layer seams When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area. 18 thickness, sew slowly and FASTENING A SEAM Be threads sure both are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam. Keep pressing reverse stitch lever down and stitch in reverse until needle Release reaches beginning of seam. the reverse lever and complete seam. When you reach the end, press the reverse lever down again and sew back over 1/2 inch of completed TURNING A SQUARE seam. CORNER To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown. Raise the presser foot, turn fabric. New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction. 19 ZRGZAG ST_TCHSNG Stitch length 24 to 6 Stitch width 1to5 Stitch selector This is the feature Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Presser foot This type of stitching greatly expands the enables you to overcast seams, applique indicated in the illustration for the simple pages for more specific uses. 2O use of your machine_ that and sew on buttons. Simply use the settings zigzag. Follow directions given in the following CHECKING TENSEONS The easiest way to check tensions is to sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric you will be using. Use the appropriate needle. Use different type of thread and colors of thread on the bobbin spool. and upper Sew a line The bobbin UNDESIRABLE DESIRABLE of medium zig-zag stitches° thread should not show on the top of the fabric. Adjust achieve above, the the top tension if stitch formation necessary to mentioned This tension control is very sensitive. You may want to reduce the tension towards 0 when sewing wide stitches on soft fabric. This reduction of tension will tend fabrics, to eliminate puckering TOP SIDE OF FABRIC of soft OVERCASTING Fig I 1 This is one of the zigzag stitches in You may want to edge of each seam raw edge toward more frequently used garment construction. overcast along the raw allowance or fold the the garment and stitch. Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished. Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched. Fig Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling. 2 INTERFACING To reduce interfacing I ! I I t / lines. lines. from both DARTS bulk of interfacing darts, cut down center between dart Overlap cut edges, matching dart Zigzag stitch along marking line point to wide end of dart, Trim raw edges close to stitching. ! 21 UTILITY BUTTONHOLE AND ST'RETCH STITCH SEWINGFs-< MAKRNG Stitch Length Green Z one._::_ Stitch 3to5 :::[':' : : ', width Stitch selector : Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Presser foot Carefully mark the on your garment. with the buttonhole buttonhole length Place the fabric marked under the buttonhole foot_ Pull the guide foot (A) all the way forward so that the index mark (B} is aligned with the graduation (C), with thread to rear. (Reproduction of the identical size buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the graduations on the left side of the buttonhole guide foot. These graduations are 1/5" apart. Graduations act as reference mark.) 22 2. Set stitch selector at _. Stitch for - ward until you approach the bottom marking of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the right stitch and raise the needle to its highest position by turning hand-wheel toward you manually. 3. Set stitch selector at _and 5 or 6 stitches at the bottom bartack mark of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch. Raise needle to its highest position by turning handwheel toward you. 4. Set stitch selector at I_and other side of the buttonhole approach the top marking sew the until of you the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch, Raise the needle to its highest position. 5o Set stitch selector at [Z:Z_ bartack 5 or 6 stitches to buttonhole. Always make a practice buttonhole with the button you will use° on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the buttonhole Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension again and finish the are placed. Tissue if it is used. paper slightly° 23 BLIND HEMMaNG Stitch length 24 to 8 Stitch width 2to 3 Stitch selector Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Presser foot © Presser Foot Fig. 1 io Finish desire. width, edge of hem anyway you Turn up hem appropriate (Fig. 1) Fig 3 3, Place garment under presser foot in such a way that narrow zigzag stitches will be sewn on extended edge° The wide zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment, (Fig. 3) Right Side of Finished Hem Edge Fig, 2 2. Fold garment ing I/8" of ( Fig, 2) 24 away from hem leavhem edge extending, Fig, 4 4. Press both sides of the finished hem, The right side of the garment wilt show only the blind stitches, (Fig, 4) SHELL STITCHING A_hJLA Stitch length 24 to ! 2 Stitch width Stitch 3to5 selector Top thread tension control 4 to 9 Presser foot : ::, : : : :::: }:: : i This tricot called stitch used on the makes an attractive Shell Stitching. edge of nylon edge stitch When sewing this stitch, allow needle to just clear the right edge of the fabric when it zigzags. You may need to tighten top thread tension slightly to obtain desired effect. ,: :: ; : ::; ":: ::::; 25 Stitch length 24 to t 2 Stitch width 3to 5 Stitch selector Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Presser foot This is a good stitch to use in attaching or binding elastic fabrics and stretch lace, lingerie stretch knit. The stitch is decorative DECORATIVE as well as useful° EDG ING Turn the raw edge under 2" and press. Place the fabric right side up with the middle of the turnover under the center of the presser foot, on to the fold underneath. 26 so that the stitch and just sews over the raw edge SETTINGS Stitch Selector Stitch Length Stitch Width ......... Control Control .... ...... Top Thread Tension Control .............. I Green to 12 5 Zone 0 to 4 Zigzag Presser Foot This is a popular decorative t\ SHELL bastings space inbetween_ To on both Remove leave a little and dresses). fabric needle. together, of blouses the seam allowances on the cut edges, and press_ Baste folded edges to tissue about 1/8" space between. Stitch over the I/8" allowance, just catching the sides with fabric in sleeves or fronts Fold under paper with TWO-POINT of (used separate fold pieces stitch attach two the fabric: To prepare and paper; press. STITCHING A SETTINGS Stitch Selector Stitch Length Stitch Width ......... Control Control Top Thread Tension Control .............. r° .... ..... Green to 12 Zone 3 to 5 0 to 4 Zigzag Presser Foot This stitch can also be used as a single overlock stitch as well. 27 SATIN STITCHING Stitch Length Green Zone Stitch width Stitch 2to 5 selector Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Presser foot © Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called appliqueing, buttonhole making. Whenever you thread slightly° are using this stitch, The wider the stitch satin stitches. This is an attractive stitch it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top you make, the looser the tension should be. If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will be eliminated bobbin thread will not be visible on the top side of the fabric. It is best to practice a sample design used for on a fabric scrap before sewing paper or and the design on garment. APPL_QUEING SETTINGS Same as with Satin Stitching Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place. Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color. 28 Z_PPER APPLICATION SETTINGS Stitch Selector ......... Stitch Stitch Length Control .... Width Control ...... Top Thread Tension Control .............. Zipper 12 0 3 to 6 Foot REGULAR ZIPPER Pin or baste zipper to fabric and place the work in position under the presser foot, Loosen the zipper foot adjusting screw to set the foot on the left side of the needle, and sew the left side zipper as shown. (Fig. 1) To sew the rightside zipper, loosen the screw and bring the foot to the right side of the needle, Needle entry (right) 1 INVISIBLE ZIPPER Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper. See Fig, 2. Follow the zipper manufacturer's instructions, After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch, CORDING Foot can also be used to make cording for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in Fig. 3. NOTE : Fig, 3 Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible zipper" and "cording", which can be obtained at any stores of Sears Roebuck and Co. 29 MENDBNG '\ v / ^\ "v / ^\ V / ^\ V / ' SETTINGS Stitch Selector Stitch Length Stitch Width ......... ;> Control .... Control ..... Top Thread Tension Control .............. Green Zone 5 0 to 4 Zigzag Presser Foot To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center. It is well to use a piece of fabric forcement. under the tear for rein- DARNING SETTI N GS Stitch Selector Stitch Stitch Length Control Width Control | I ......... Top Thread Tension Control .............. Presser Foot Pressure .... ..... 8 to 10 0 ..... 3 to 6 0 Zigzag Presser Foot Use Darning plate (See page 9) Stretch fabric between with hole centered, embroidery hoops Lower presser bar and sew at a slow speed moving fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover darning area. When it is covered, turn fabric 1/4 a turn and sew layer of stitching across first layer, If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole area, you may want to put a separate piece under the hole for reinforcement, Be sure to return pressure to original adjustment (See page 6) 30 on presser foot after darning. BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS / Stitch Stitch Selector ........ Width Control ..... Must be adjusted Top Thread Tension Control .............. 0 to 4 Use Darning Plate Zigzag Presser Foot 1. Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely, 2. Turn hand wheel manually needle point is just above button. until 3, Adjust stitch width control so needle will enter left hole of the button. Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole. Readjust stitch width if necessary, Stitch a number of times. 4_ , Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining. Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie. £AR TACKING SETTINGS m i • • IH• • h • i • _ : ! •• i• m( • • Selector Stitch Length Stitch Width ......... Control _ .... Green Zone h • •:••1 i I : Stitch /: I Control ..... Top Thread Tension Control .............. Zigzag 1 to 5 0 to 4 Presser Foot This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie, Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches° 31 STRETCH STITCHING The stitches stitches built shown below are all for use with stretch and knit in to the machine for your quick selection° < /_/ \ ,,,, \ J J \/\ /\f < < @® \/\ t "-. / X> J J J fabrics. )x\ 1. Straight Stretch 2o Rickrack Stretch 3. Overcast Stretch \'\ /x\ )x \ ,\ 4. 5_ 6. 7. 8. These are special Smocking Stretch Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Elastic Stretch Stretch Patching Herring Bone Stretch ® ® ® ®®® ADJUSTING STRETCH STITCH BALANCE In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch adjuster should usually be in a neutral position (between "+" and "--", or I_ position). When sewing some fabrics, you may need to adjust this control to balance the stitches for appearance sake. If design seems open like the illustrations to the left, adjust the control slightly toward "-" until design looks like the center design, if the design appears to be closed as in the right hand illustrations, turn the control toward "+" until stitching is as you desire. 32 i t STRAIGHT STRETCH STgTCHaNG Stitch length Any number (not necessary to adjust) : Stitch width 0 Stitch selector :: Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Presser foot Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric and other fabrics that stretch. Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming. The seam may be pressed open as with any regular seam, but will stretch if necessary. This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric, Any seam that will receive a great deal of strain when worn should be sewn with the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts and slacks as well as adult sports clothes, 33 R_CK-RACK STR ETCH STITCH _NG Stitch length Any number (not necessary to adjust) Stitch width 2to 5 *Top thread tension control 0 to 4 !!iii Presser foot Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch. This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well. 34 Stitch selector OVERCAST STITCHING STRETCH Stitch length Any number (not necessary to adjust) Stitch width 5 Stitch selector Top thread tension control 0 to 4 i J ! Presser foot This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish. It is used for seams of 3/8" to 1/4", The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It must be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch_ Fig, 1 shows the raw edge finished, Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric short of the outside edge. just Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling. -Fig. I 35 SMOCKING STRETCH STUTCHUNG /_,/\/\ %/\ / .t._ / \ / \/'_./\ \/'-. _" \.P\/N / _,/\/-./\/ _ Stitch length Any number (not necessary to adjust) Stitch 3to width 5 Stitch selector Top thread tension contro! 0 to 4 a Presser foot With a narrow strip of fabric directly under the line of gathering, stitch over the gathers° The design will be a series of small diamonds, When smocking a garment, ing should be done before sewn into the garment. 36 the stitchthe piece is SERGING STRETCH OR PINE LEAF STITCHING Stitch length Any number (not necessary to adjust) Stitch 3to5 width Stitch selector Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Presser foot tll,_ t11"2 The serging or pine leaf stitch is similar to one used by garment industry in making sportswear. It is particularly useful when sewing swimwear, ski and other sports garments, 37 ELASTBC STRETCH STITCH Stitch length Any number (not necessary to adjust) Stitch 3to width Stitch 5 selector Top thread tension control 0 to 4 Presser foot Use this versatile garments° stitch Simply to insert elastic stitch elastic in into place, making sure it is evenly spaced_ To do this, mark the correct length piece into quarters, then match these markings with center front and side seams. 38 STRETCH PATCHING SETTINGS Stitch Selector Stitch Length Stitch Width 4. <_ ......... Control Control .... ..... Top Thread Tension Control .............. Zigzag Any (not number neces- sary adjust) 5 to 0 to 4 Presser Foot If the kids keep "busting out" elbows or kness ....... if someone burns or hole in expensive knits ...... this recipe will save you big money ! It can be decorative, too - - When you want patches to show ! HERRING BONE STRETCH SETTINGS Stitch Selector Stitch Length Stitch Width 5. ......... Control Control Top Thread Tension Control .............. Zigzag Use as hemming stitch for blankets, tablecloth ..... ..... Any number (not necessary to adjust) 5 0 to 4 Presser Foot and draperies° Place the fabric right side up, and sew 3/8" from the edge, Trim close to stitching, The stitch will prevent raveling, 39 FREE-ARM SEWING / / ! .... . i :::ilt -: i :! ): i: :: This sewing machine can be used like a flat bed machine, but easily converts to free arm machine by removing the extension table. The free arm enables you to sew tubular types of pieces more easily° Just slip the sleeve or pants leg on the free arm as shown above° You will find many feature such as: 1. Mend elbows uses for this free arm and knees of garments more easi!y. 2o Sew in sleeves especially garments° true more when easily.. sewing 3. Applique, embroider or hem edges of cuffs or pants legs. 4o Sewing in elastic casings pants at the waistline. if:i• :i:!!!:)_!::_i!ji!:£i::_;ii:•_i::::•-:i:7_ :•: _;_ :; :•::F• .......... 40 This is smaller around in skirts or Cnecu
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