Master Bilt Bsd Series Users Manual NEW Basemount Install

BSD Series to the manual d327cb07-785c-4416-9c98-4c6d9780f036

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1 4/07

BSD SERIES

REFRIGERATORS AND FREEZERS

Installation, Operation and

Maintenance Instructions

INSPECTION

When the equipment is received, all items should be carefully checked against the bill of

lading to insure all crates and cartons have been received. All units should be inspected for

concealed damage by uncrating the units immediately. If any damage is found, it should be

reported to the carrier at once, and a claim should be filed with the carrier. This equipment

has been inspected and tested at the manufacturing facility and has been crated in

accordance with transportation rules and guidelines. Manufacturer is not responsible for

freight loss or damage.

INSTALLATION

GENERAL

If casters are installed, care should be taken when removing the unit from the crate base.

The unit is heavy and can present a hazard if not handled with care. Remove the unit crate

and crate base. Discard hardware used to secure the cabinet to the crate base. Ensure that

at least two persons are available to install the casters. Lay the cabinet on its back to

create access to the cabinet bottom. Attach the casters to the cabinet base suing the

factory installed screws as shown below.

Remove the ¼ x 20 x ¾ screws (4 per

caster) that are factory installed. Position the

caster and reinstall. Ensure that the locking

casters are installed on the front of the

cabinet. After installation is complete, return

the cabinet to its upright position. The

cabinet should set in the upright position for

at least one hour prior to energizing. This is

required to allow the refrigeration to settle to

its normal state. The cabinet should also be

levelled when it is placed in its permanent

location.

2 4/07

If the doors are out of alignment on the cabinet, the doors can be adjusted. This can be

accomplished by opening the door(s) and loosening the screws that hold both the top and

bottom hinges to the cabinet. After adjusting the door so that it is aligned correctly, tighten

the screws to securely hold the hinges in place.

ELECTRICAL

Check the proposed outlet to be used to insure that the voltage, phase and current carrying

capacity of the circuit from the electrical panel correspond to the requirements of the

cabinet. NEVER use an extension cord to wire any unit. On permanently connected units,

those not furnished with a plug-in service cord, all inter-wiring between the electrical panel

and the unit must be done in accordance with the National Electric Code and all state and

local codes. Refer to the serial tag for all pertinent electrical information.

Observe all Warning Labels. Disconnect power supply to eliminate injury from

electrical shock or moving parts when servicing equipment.

GENERAL OPERATION

The refrigerators and freezers employ a unit cooler evaporator located outside the cabinet

as the heat removing source. Through the refrigeration process, heat is captured in the

evaporator, transferred to the condensing unit on top of the cabinet, and expelled to the

surrounding outside air. It is extremely important to allow a four (4) inch clearance on the

top, rear, and sides of the unit for the refrigeration process to function properly.

These refrigerators and freezers utilize a programmable controller to control the

temperature and defrost settings. The controller, which is located on the facade of

the unit, is factory set. Please see the default settings sheet and separate

instructions that are included on the operation of this controller.

REFRIGERATORS

During the operation of a refrigerator unit, frost will periodically form on the coil surface.

Each time the compressor cycles "off", the evaporator fans will continue to run, which will

keep the internal temperature uniform and at the same time remove any frost build up on

the coil. The water produced will collect in the unit cooler drain pan and travel down the

drain tube to the condensate vaporizer.

FREEZERS

After shutting the door on freezer models, a short amount of time must be allowed before

the door can be reopened. This is due to the tight seal maintained between the door and

the cabinet. Waiting a few moments for the pressure to equalize permits the door to be

opened easily.

A positive defrost is required to remove frost from the coil in freezer models. This is

accomplished by energizing heaters during the defrost cycle that are positioned on the coil

surface. The programmable controller is factory set to allow four defrosts per day.

3 4/07

As the preset defrost time is reached, the controller automatically terminates the

refrigeration process by turning off the condensing unit and unit cooler fan motors, and

energizes the defrost heaters. As the coil temperature increases, the frost begins to melt

producing water which runs down the coil to the unit cooler drain pan and exits through the

drain tube to the vaporizer. After all the frost has been removed and the coil temperature

reaches approximately 50°F [10ºC], the defrost is terminated through the action of the

defrost termination control located on the unit cooler, and the refrigeration process

resumes. In order to insure that any excess water remaining on the coil is not sprayed into

the cabinet interior, and all heat generated by the defrost is removed, the unit cooler fans

will not operate until the coil temperature reaches approximately 25°F [-4ºC].

GENERAL MAINTENANCE

PERIODIC CLEANING

Beginning with the initial installation, the interior surfaces of the cabinet should be

periodically wiped down with a solution of warm water and baking soda. This solution will

remove any odors from spillage that has occurred. The exterior of the cabinet should also

be cleaned frequently with a commercial grade of glass cleaner.

Monthly cleaning of the condenser will aid the heat transfer characteristics of the

refrigeration system and increase its efficiency. To accomplish this, remove the cover panel

from the cabinet and use a wire brush to loosen any dirt particles that are attached to the

fins. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove the loosened particles. Failure to keep the

condenser coil clean and clear of obstructions could result in temperature loss and

damage to the compressor.

All moving parts have been permanently lubricated and will generally require no

maintenance.

4 4/07

MAINTENANCE SERVICE AND ANALYSIS GUIDE

REFRIGERATION SYSTEMS - ALL MODELS

MALFUNCTION POSSIBLE CAUSE SOLUTION

Compressor will not start - 1. Service cord unplugged 1. Plug in service cord

no hum 2. Fuse blown or removed 2. Replace fuse

3. Overload tripped 3. Determine reasons and correct

4. Control stuck open 4. Repair or replace

5. Wiring incorrect 5. Check wiring against the diagram

Compressor will not start - 1. Improperly wired 1. Check wiring against the diagram

hums but trips on overload 2. Low voltage to unit 2. Determine reason and correct

protector 3. Starting capacitor defective 3. Determine reason and replace

4. Relay failing to close 4. Determine reason, correct or replace

Compressor starts and runs, 1. Low voltage to unit 1. Determine reason and correct

but short cycles on overload 2. Overload defective 2. Check current, replace overload protector

protector 3. Excessive head pressure 3. Check ventilation or restriction in

refrigeration system

4. Compressor hot-return gas hot 4. Check refrigerant charge, fix leak if necessary

Compressor operates long 1. Short of refrigerant 1. Fix leak, add charge

or continuously 2. Control contact stuck 2. Repair or replace

3. Evaporator coil iced 3. Determine cause, defrost manually

4. Restriction in refrigeration system 4. Determine location and remove restriction

5. Dirty condenser 5. Clean condenser

Compressor runs fine, but 1. Overload protector 1. Check wiring diagram

short cycles 2. Cold control 2. Differential too close - widen

3. Overcharge 3. Reduce charge

4. Air in system 4. Purge and recharge

5. Undercharge 5. Fix leak, add refrigerant

Starting capacitor open, 1. Relay contacts stuck 1. Clean contacts or replace relay

shorted or blown 2. Low voltage to unit 2. Determine reason and correct

3. Improper relay 3. Replace

Relay defective or burned out 1. Incorrect relay 1. Check and replace

2. Voltage too high or too low 2. Determine reason and correct

Refrigerated space too warm 1. Control setting too high 1. Reset control

2. Refrigerant overcharge 2. Purge refrigerant

3. Dirty condenser 3. Clean condenser

4. Evaporator coil iced 4. Determine reason and defrost

5. Not operating 5. Determine reason, replace if necessary

Standard temperature system 1. Control setting is too low 1. Reset the control

freezes the product 2. Control points stuck 2. Replace the control

Objectionable noise 1. Fan blade hitting fan shroud 1. Reform or cut away small section of shroud

2. Tubing rattle 2. Locate and reform

3. Vibrating fan blade 3. Replace fan blade

4. Condenser fan motor rattles 4. Check motor bracket mounting, tighten

5. General vibration 5. Compressor suspension bolts not loosened

on applicable models - loosen them

6. Worn fan motor bearings 6. Replace fan motor

Pan Area 1. No cooling 1. Make sure switch is in the "on" position

2. Too cold 2. Adjust temperature control - see instructions

under pan area

3. Too warm 3. Adjust temperature control - see instructions

under pan area

9/05 040625

INSTRUCTIONS FOR REVERSING

THE SWING OF SOLID DOORS

Complete the following steps if reversing the swing of the solid door(s) is desired. These steps apply to both

refrigerators and freezers.

1. With a one, two, or three door model, first open the door and locate the screws holding the hinges and door

in position.

2. Two people are recommended to make this change. One person should hold the door at a 90° angle to the

cabinet while the other person removes the screws holding the door to the cabinet. The normal installation

at the factory is to have the spring loaded door-closing mechanism located at the bottom of the cabinet.

When removing the spring tension bracket from the cabinet bottom, be careful that it does not snap

back. This may result in pinched fingers.

3. After the door(s) are removed, remove the door lock strike(s) from the cabinet by removing the two mounting

screws.

4. Find the holes, drilled through the outer skin only, located on the opposite side of the door opening from

where the hinges were previously located. Drill through the tapping plate found behind these holes using a

7/32" drill bit.

5. Turn the door over and align it to the cabinet so it will swing in the desired direction. The spring loaded door-

closing hinge will now be located at the top of the reversed door. Mount the hinges to the cabinet using the

holes that were drilled out in step 4, along with the previously removed screws. Check the door(s) to be

certain that it is mounted squarely and that the gaskets seal properly around the door opening. The door can

be adjusted by moving the top or bottom hinge slightly.

6. The original hinge holes can be filled with silicone, or with 1/4-20x3/4 pan head stainless steel screws if

desired.

7. Locate the door lock strike by visually aligning it to the dead bolt lock in the door while the door is in the

closed position. While holding the strike in position, mark the top, bottom, and edge of the strike on the

cabinet wall or mullion with a pencil or fine point marker that will remain legible until completion of the task.

Verify that the strike is positioned properly by assuring that it is aligned to the marks and hold it securely;

open and close the door and extend and retract the dead bolt to make certain they clear without touching.

The strike cannot be adjusted after it is mounted.

8. Align the strike to the marks, which were made in step 7 and mark the centers of the holes for the mounting

screws. Using a #20 drill bit, drill the holes you just marked approximately one-half inch deep. Take care

not to puncture the interior side of the cabinet. Note: If a #20 bit is not available, use a 5/32" drill bit.

9. Mount the door lock strike using the screws that were removed from the original position. The screws may

have to be forced until the thread cutting tip has passed through the entire metal thickness. The original door

strike holes can be filled with silicone, or with two 10-24x1/2 stainless steel pan head screws if desired.