Shipways 2003 Users Manual Dapper Tom Instruction Book

2003 to the manual 4f1b5fc9-53ac-4c5e-bd1a-f3fe6b37973e

: -Shipways -Shipways-2003-Users-Manual-557361 -shipways-2003-users-manual-557361 -shipways pdf

Open the PDF directly: View PDF .
Page Count: 24

Model Shipways Kit No. 2003

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Manufactured by Model Shipways, Inc. • Hollywood, Florida

Sold by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. • www.modelexpo-online.com

Technical Characteristics

Scale: 5/32" = 1 ft.

Overall Length: 24"; Hull Length: 15-1/2"

Width: 9" (width of lower yard); Hull Beam: 4"

Height: 18" (top of main mast to bottom of keel)

MODELING THE

DAPPER TOM

✦ BALTIMORE CLIPPER PRIVATEER, 1815 ✦

MODELING THE

DAPPER TOM

✦ BALTIMORE CLIPPER PRIVATEER, 1815 ✦

Instructions prepared by Ben Lankford

Model prototype by Bob Werner ©2006, Model Shipways, Inc.

HISTORY

2

HISTORY

During the 19th Century, many Baltimore Clippers were granted privateering licenses by the US Government. Since

all commerce was subject to the legalized banditry of privateers, only a fast, well handled ship could be reasonably sure

of reaching its destination. Privateers like the Dapper Tom depended on their sailing abilities and fire power to prey on

foreign shipping and to escape the British men-of-war patrolling the high seas.

The Dapper Tom, an 8-gun topsail schooner, is to great extent, typical of Baltimore Privateers of a stormy decade when

ships were at the mercy of any stranger, and even armed ships were safe only in proportion to their nimbleness.

The plans of the Dapper Tom were developed in 1954 by John Shedd, the original owner of Model Shipways in Bogota,

New Jersey. The model is a reconstruction of a typical Baltimore Clipper. The model’s hull is based on Marestier’s draw-

ing No. 6 as taken off that vessel in stocks in 1814. Rigging is based on contemporary practice. Those wishing to study

the development of this type should consult Howard I. Chapelle’s book The Baltimore Clipper (See Bibliography).

While the plans are reproduced from the original, the kit has been updated and reissued by Model Shipways. These

new instructions are provided along with a more complete set of supplies for building the model. The fittings are now

cast from lead-free Britannia metal and some laser-cut wood parts added.

Brief History.................................................................2

Before You Begin ..........................................................3

How To Work With The Plans & Parts ........................3

What You’ll Need to Start Construction .......................3

Painting & Staining......................................................4

Stage A: Shaping the Pre-Carved Hull

1. Using the Templates .................................................4

2. Carving the Hull ......................................................5

3. Carving the Bulwarks ...............................................5

4. Carving the Transom & Counter..............................5

Stage B: Completing the Basic Hull Structures

1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost.......................6

2. Installing the Rudder................................................6

3. Drilling the Larger Holes in the Hull........................6

4. Holes to be Drilled as Work Progresses .....................6

5. Planking the Deck & Installing the Waterways.........6

6. Creating the Ladder Way Hole .................................7

7. Cutting Out the Gunports & Transom Ports............7

8. Installing Bulwark Stanchions & Cap Rail................7

9. Installing the Outboard Waterway Strip & Wale.......7

Stage C: Mounting the Hull

1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals.........................7

2. Launching Ways .......................................................7

Stage D: Adding the Hull Details

1. General Notes...........................................................8

2. Transom Rail, Mouldings, Counter Detail,

& Main Sheet Traveler Rod ..........................................8

3. Catheads, Bulwark Sheaves, Cavils, Hawse Pipes, &

Gunport Lids ...............................................................8

4. Deck Bitts, Fife Rails, Pin Rails, Capstan, Galley

Funnel, Hatches, Ladder Way, Pumps, & Skylight ......9

5. Cannon ....................................................................9

6. Channels & Side Ladder...........................................9

Stage E: Mast & Spar Construction

1. Shaping the Masts ..................................................10

2. Assembling the Masts .............................................10

3. Shaping & Detailing the Spars................................11

4. Installing the Mast & Bowsprit Assemblies........11-12

Stage F: General Rigging Information................12-14

Stage G: Standing Rigging ..................................14-16

Stage H: Running Rigging ..................................17-22

Bibliography .............................................................22

Modeler’s Log............................................................23

Construction Stages & Table of Contents

Construction Stages & Table of Contents

3

Before You Begin

The Dapper Tom is an interesting model for

beginner and expert alike. This kit contains a

solid hull which has been machine-carved

from select, medium-hard, fine-grained bass-

wood. This style hull provides a quick and

easy lesson in the basic shapes and propor-

tions of hull design and helps to develop

woodworking skills. Although the exterior of

the hull has been carved close to the hull

lines as shown on the plans, further carving

is necessary for reasons of accuracy. (Carving

and finishing the hull to its final shape are

discussed in the instructions.)

Constructing the Dapper Tom model also

will provide you with the opportunity to

develop some scratch-building techniques.

During construction, you may want to sub-

stitute some of the kit fittings with your own

creations. By all means try them, especially if

you think you can improve the model.

If you are a beginner, completing this model

will prepare you for a more complicated

model such as the Pride of Baltimore II,

which is outfitted with a plank-on-bulkhead

hull. In the meantime, happy modeling!

Working with the Plans & Parts

Before starting model construction, examine

the kit and study the plans carefully. Familiar-

izing yourself with the kit will serve two

purposes. First, it will let you determine that

all parts have been supplied as listed. And sec-

ond, you’ll be surprised at how quickly

handling the parts allows you to better under-

stand the kit requirements. Try to visualize

how every part will look on the completed

model. Also, determine ahead of time what

must be done first. The instructions will help

you in this regard, but a thorough knowledge

of the plans at the outset is essential.

It is also suggested that all small fittings and

hardware be sorted into labeled boxes or

compartments to avoid loss during the

building process.

Two Plan Sheets and One Template Sheet

are provided:

1. Hull Templates - 1 sheet of heavy stock

2. Hull Plan-Sheet 1

3. Masting and Rigging Plan-Sheet 2

In addition, a set of sketches appears

throughout the instruction manual to further

illustrate the various stages of construction.

The Dapper T

om kit is manufactured to a

scale of 5/32” = 1’0” and matches the plans.

Consequently, most of the dimensions can

be lifted directly from the plans using a “tick

strip”. This is simply a piece of paper (a roll

of calculator paper tape works very well).

Mark a dimension from the plan onto the

tick strip and transfer it to the model.

The Dapper Tom model is designed to be dis-

played without sails. Much of the

reconstructed rigging was developed using

references from well-known books, such as

those by David Steel and Darcey Lever. (A

bibliography of references appears at the end

of this manual.) These texts provide many of

the details, but lack some of the unique char-

acteristics of the schooner rig. Consequently,

in designing the plans, additional references,

along with contemporary paintings and

etchings also were used. Even so, many

design decisions were made using good com-

mon sense: “If I were designing back then,

what would I have done?” There is always

doubt; no one can say for sure how the ship

was actually rigged.

The Dapper Tom kit is supplied with Britan-

nia metal, brass, as well as wooden fittings to

eliminate problems in making such parts

from scratch. Because the Britannia metals

contain no lead, there are no possible corro-

sion problems. Many of these fittings will

require final finishing before installing on

the model.

Before painting the cast-metal fittings, clean

them up by removing all the mold-joint flash.

To do this, use a No. 11 hobby blade to cut

the flash, then sand with fine sandpaper. It is

also suggested that you clean the fittings thor-

oughly with warm soapy water before applying

primer. Make sure they are rinsed thoroughly

and allowed to dry before painting.

What You’ll Need To Start

The following tools and supplies are recom-

mended for the construction process.

Modelers who have built before may have

their own favorites. Almost all are available

from Model Expo, a division of Model Ship-

ways, Inc., at www.modelexpo-online.com.

A. Knives and Saws

1. Hobby knife with No.11 blades

2. Razor saw (especially for cutting gun-

ports out of the bulwarks)

B. Files

Set of needle files

C. Sharpening Stone

Necessary to keep the tools razor sharp

D. Clamps

1. A few small C-clamps

2. Several wooden clothespins

3. Rubber bands

E. Tool Set

A small carving tool set and chisels for

shaping the hull.

F. Boring Tools

1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80

2. Larger bits for mast holes, bowsprit

hole, and hawse pipe holes

3. Pin vise

G. Miscellaneous

1. Tack hammer

2. Tweezers (a few)

3. Small fine pointed scissors

4. Miniature pliers

a. Small round b. Flat nose

5. Bench vise (small)

6. Soldering iron

a. Solder

b. Flux

Note: soldering is not essential for this par-

ticular model if the kit fittings are used.

7. Sewing thread (for seizings; other

rigging is supplied)

8. Beeswax block (for treating rigging lines)

9. 1/2” or 3/4” masking tape

10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and

strip metal)

H. Sandpaper

Fine and medium grit garnet or aluminum

oxide sandpaper (#100 to #220 grit)

I. Finishing:

1. Paint brushes

a. Fine point for details

b. 1/4” to 1/2” flat square for hull

J. Supplies: (will be covered in detail in

the Painting & Staining section and

throughout instructions)

1. Paints

2. Primer

3. Stain and Varnish

4. White or Carpenter’s (yellow)

Wood Glue

5. Five-minute epoxy

6. Contact or model airplane acetate

cement

7. Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue

Note about glues: White or Carpenter’s yel-

low wood glue will suffice for most of the

model. Five-minute epoxy provides extra

strength for gluing fittings. Because white or

yellow glues will tend to warp the scored-

sheet decking, use a contact cement or

model airplane type acetate cement. Cyano-

acrylate (Super) glue, called CA glue for

short, such as Zap is excellent for quick

adhesion and is ideal for dabbing onto a rig-

ging seizing to hold it in place. The best CA

glue for most applications is a medium vis-

cosity gap-filling type. The watery-thin type

is recommended only to fill a narrow crack

by capillary action. For CA glue, you can

also purchase a liquid accelerator such as Zip

Kicker. A spray or drop of the accelerator

will instantly cure the glue. This is handy to

eliminate clamping parts for long periods of

time and waiting for glue to harden.

Use CA glue with caution. You can easily

glue your fingers or eyelids together and the

fumes can burn your eyes. It would be a

good idea to have a bottle of CA debonder

on hand. This product will dissolve the glue

if you do get it on your body.

4

Painting and Staining

It may seem strange to begin an instruction

manual with directions for applying the fin-

ishes to the model. Not so! Much time and

effort can be saved and a more professional

result can be obtained if the finishing process

is carried out during construction. Proper

timing in application of finishes and the use

of masking tape to define painted edges

should eliminate unsightly glue marks and

splotchy stained surfaces. In the end, follow-

ing these general suggestions will be to your

advantage.

Paint Colors:

At the time of Dapper Tom, 1815, colors

were largely determined by economics. Reds,

yellows, and grays were cheap mineral colors,

hence more common. White lead was com-

ing into use but was still expensive.

A suggested color scheme for Dapper Tom

is as follows:

Hull Above the Waterline - Black with a

cream stripe at gunport level. Painting the

Wale strip cream will do the trick.

Hull Bottom Below Waterline - Pale

Green to represent weathered copper. A thin

wash of black over the green will enhance

the weathered look but do not overpower

the green.

Deck Planking - Natural or a light tan stain

such as pine.

Inside Bulwarks (including the stan-

chions) , Waterways, Top of Skylight,

Hatch Gratings, Transom Cap Rail & Side

Mouldings, Inside Transom & Counter -

Light Buff

Hatch Coamings, Galley Funnel Coam-

ing, Pin Rails, Bitts, Channels, Catheads,

Skylight Sides, Gun Carriages, Anchor

Stock - Dark Reddish Brown (preferred) or

White (second choice)

Stern Decoration - Gold stars.

Masts & Spars - Pine Stain.

Mast Doublings, Tops, Rudder Tiller,

Galley Funnel, Gaff Jaws, Bowsprit Cap,

Bulwark Cap Rails, & Gun Carriage

Wheels - Black.

Cannon Barrels & Anchors - Iron Black.

Capstan - Black top & Dark Reddish

Brown barrel.

Paint:

Use a flat-finish paint. Model Shipways line

of acrylic paints are available in the recom-

mended colors. You may also purchase an

already assembled Dapper Tom paint kit

from Model Expo

at www.modelexpo-online.com.

Primer:

Use a grey primer (one is provided with the

Model Expo Dapper Tom paint kit.) The grey

color will highlight sanding scratches and

other defects better than white primer. Prime

all woodwork to be painted, and prime all

metal fittings. Lightly sand the primed

items. Use a spackling compound such as

Pic-n-Patch brand to fill any scratches and

defects, then re-prime.

Stains & Finishes:

For natural finished wood, use a protective

coating after staining, such as low-sheen

polyurethane varnish. You can also use an

oil-resin mix like the ones sold by Model

Expo or Minwax.

For the deck and spars, Model Expo stain or

Minwax can be used. These are a combina-

tion stain-finish that will provide a light tone

to the wood. The deck plank scores can be

darkened with any dark color to simulate

caulking. It would be best to first varnish the

surface, wiping the dark color into the

scores, the wipe the surface of the planks

clean. You can also run a sharp No. 2 pencil

down each groove, then varnish.

The staining of all wood parts should be

done before gluing, especially if any CA glue

is used. Glue will leave ugly white areas in

the finish, and the stain will not penetrate

these areas.

Brushes & Procedures:

Use good quality soft sable or synthetic hair

artist’s brushes. A small pointed brush is

good for details. For the main hull areas, use

a 1/4" to 1/2" flat brush.

Before painting, clean the model with a tack

rag. Apply your paint in smooth and even

strokes, overlapping them as you go. Thin

the paint enough to eliminate brush strokes,

but not run. You will need three or four

coats of the light colors to cover the grey

primer and maybe only two coats of the

dark. Check your finish between coats and

sand and add spackle as necessary to get rid

of any blemishes.

You will be told how to mark the waterline

location in Stage A. At this line, and any-

where else two colors meet, use masking

tape. Electrician’s black plastic tape or any of

the hobby tapes made of plastic film are

ideal. They leave a nice edge and are not

overly sticky. Do not use drafting tape unless

it is Chart-pak brand. The edges are some-

what wrinkled and paint may run under

them. A good trick; seal the edge of masking

tape with a clear flat finish and let dry thor-

oughly. This will really prevent paint from

running under the tape.

STAGE A: SHAPING THE PRE-CARVED HULL

Sanding alone will not shape the hull

enough to precisely match the hull lines.

Some carving is required, especially at the

rail, keel, bow, & stern areas.

1. Using the Templates

For exact carving to hull lines, a template is

required for the hull profile and each of the

nine stations (Figure A-1). You will find a

template set printed on heavy stock paper in

the kit. Cut the templates out carefully with

a No. 11 hobby knife. Do not use scissors!

You will want a nice smooth edge.

Option-The profile template can be cut at

Station 5 to make fitting easier. Just make

sure you have the keel straight and don’t

build in a knuckle. Likewise, the station

templates can be cut at the bulwark. If you

do this, mark the width of the hull at each

station on top of the bulwark beforehand

and carve to these marks.

FIG. A-1 KIT TEMPLATES

OPTIONAL CUT

(SEE TEXT)

STATION

PROFILE

5

2. Carving the Hull

Cut a wooden block from scrap to about 3”

x 1” x 3/4” thick. Screw the block to the

deck so the model can be held in a bench

vise for carving. First, check the accuracy of

the profile and correct it as necessary, using a

long sanding block (Figure A-2).

Next, mark the centerline, rabbet lines

(where hull meets keel) and station lines on

the model (Figure A-3). Place the station

marks on the center of the hull bottom and

on top of the rails so the marks won’t be

carved off as you work. Also, add the

breadth marks on the rail if you elected the

option noted above.

Start carving approximately at Station 5

(maximum beam) and progress forward,

then aft, using chisels and gouges to cut

away excess wood. Avoid carving against the

grain by shifting forward or aft of Station 5

until you find a spot where you are going

with the grain. Basswood carves easily, so

you probably won’t have much problem with

the grain.

Carve very slowly and take off a little wood

at a time. Fit the templates as you go. Carve

until the template fits reasonably well, then

use sandpaper to obtain the final shape. At

first the templates will not fit very well. You

must compare the template to the hull and

visually decide where to remove wood. Cut a

little off, then re-check the template.

Finally, draw a few horizontal pencil lines

(like waterlines) and the vertical station lines

on the hull. Use these to visually check the

shape of the hull. Hold the hull at various

angles, and look to see if the pencil lines are

fair (even). If you have any unfairness, dips

or bump, they can usually be found with this

visual check. You can also use a stiff stick of

wood, about 1/8” square, and lay it on the

hull at various locations. Dips in the hull

will show up under the stick.

Sand the stern transom with a sanding block.

3. Carving the Bulwarks

Make yourself a temporary cradle to secure

the hull while carving (Figure A-4). This

cradle also will serve to hold the model for

most of the remaining work. Make the cra-

dle so the model sits in it with its waterline

parallel to the baseboard and table. The

tops of the cradle should be below the

waterline. Later, when you are ready to

paint, attach a pencil on top of a wooden

block and slide it along the table to mark

the location of the waterline.

The machine-carved hull has bulwarks thick-

er than scale so they won’t break while inside

the kit box. The upper surface is cut to the

underside of the cap rail. After you carve the

outside of the hull, the bulwarks will be

thinner. If more than 1/16" thick, it will be

necessary to carve the inside of the bulwarks.

This is the most difficult part, so work slow-

ly as you carve (Figure A-5). After carving,

sand the surfaces smooth. If you happen to

have or want to buy a powered rotary tool

like a Dremel, there are many cutters avail-

able to quickly reduce the bulwark thickness.

Note that bulwark stanchions go onto the

inboard side of the bulwarks. T

ogether with

the bulwark (planks on a real ship) they

must fit under the cap rail which is only

5/32" wide. If the stanchions will not fit,

make them a little thinner, or better, sand

the inside of the bulwark a little more at the

top. You can then taper the inside down to

the deck without reducing the thickness at

the deck. You won’t really see that the bot-

tom is thicker than the top. Of course, you

could use a wider cap rail but don’t get it too

wide or the scale will not look proper. Figure

A-6 is a cross section through the bulwark

showing the options.

4. Carving the Inside of the

Transom & Counter

The top of the transom should be about

3/32" thick. If necessary, carve the transom

down on the inside, tapering to the counter

line. Like the bulwarks, a rail sits atop the

transom. The counter is that portion of the

stern from the transom down to the deck.

This should be a slightly curved shape. See

Figure A-7 for a transom and counter view.

The sketch also shows the openings that will

be cut later.

Transom Option - On a machine-carved

hull the wood grain at the stern is in the

wrong direction. If you are worried that the

transom might split, you could add a thin

basswood sheet on the outside to strengthen

it. You could even cut out the transom com-

pletely and add a sheet transom.

At this stage, the basic hull is fully carved.

Sand the entire hull with #220 grit sandpa-

per for the final smoothing. Be careful not to

round the upper edges of the rail or at the

rabbet. These should be sharp corners.

FIG. A-2 CORRECTING THE PROFILE

FIG. A-3

MARKING THE HULL

FIG. A-4 CRADLE

FIG. A-6 BULWARK SECTIONS FIG. A-7 TRANSOM & COUNTER

FIG. A-5 CARVING

BULWARKS

TEMPLATE

MARK STATIONS

MARK RABBET

STA 4

STA7

1/4"

3/8" PLYWOOD

CAP RAIL CL

TRANSOM

SLIGHT

CURVE

BULWARK

COUNTER

DECK

STANCHION

UNIFORM THICKNESS THICKER AT DECK

CUT SLOT

FOR KEEL

MARK

CENTER LINE

FIT TEMPLATES

USE GOUGE FIRST SMOOTH WITH CHISEL

MARK STATIONS ON TOP OF RAIL

CROSS SECTION

RAIL

CL RABBET

WOOD TO

BE CUT AWAY

SANDING BLOCK

BENCH VISE BLOCK

STATION

5

6

1. Installing the Keel, Stem

& Sternpost

The keel, stem & sternpost are laser-cut

parts. Taper the stem and install the parts

(Figure B-1). Note that the hull plan shows a

scarf joint between the keel and stem with a

step in the middle of the joint. This step has

been eliminated in the laser-cut part. Also,

the stem is shown to be made up of two

pieces. A one piece stem is provided instead.

Use pins or dowels to position the parts

before gluing. Scrape off any glue squeeze-

out. Fill any gaps remaining at the glue

joints with wood filler and then sand.

2. Installing the Rudder

The rudder, a laser-cut part, can be shaped

and installed now or later. The rudder is

tapered and has a round front edge.The pin-

tles & gudgeons are made from brass strip or

by using paper strips. See Figure B-2 for con-

struction.

3. Drilling the Larger Holes

in the Hull

Before going any further with the details,

drill all the large holes in the hull. These

would include a hole for the rudder post &

bowsprit, two mast holes and two pilot holes

in the keel for screws or pins for mounting

the model on a display base. The rudder post

hole will need to be filed to an oval shape as

shown on the plans. For the mast holes,

make a drill guide jig so you will drill at the

correct mast rake angle (see Figure B-3 for

some ideas).

4. Holes to be Drilled as

Work Progresses

There will be other holes to drill as the work

progresses. For example, the hawse holes for

the anchor cable are drilled through the bul-

warks forward. Holes will be required in the

deck for the galley funnel, the capstan, bitts,

and the pumps. You will also need to drill

small holes for inserting eyebolts that hold

blocks for the rigging and gun lines, holes

for belaying pins, and holes for pinning vari-

ous parts in place.

5. Planking the Deck & Installing

the Waterway

The deck planking supplied in the kit is a

scored basswood sheet. To represent caulked

seams darken the scored lines. The Painting

and Staining Section of these instructions

provide some suggestions how to do this. To

fit the sheet, first make a paper pattern of the

deck area. Make sure the scored plank lines

are parallel to the centerline when the sheet

is installed. Glue the sheeting down with

contact cement or airplane-type cement (see

gluing notes in the Painting and Staining

Section). Before you glue the deck consider

the options as follows:

Individual Planks -You could lay individual

planks instead of the scored sheeting, but

wood for this is not included in the kit. If

you elect to do this, paint one edge of each

plank black or brown. When the planks are

glued together, the color will show up as

caulking between planks.

Waterway -Along the inside of the bulwarks,

flush with the deck or just slightly thicker,

there is a waterway-nibbing strake. If you

want to add this detail, cut the edge off the

scored deck, the width of the waterway, and

glue the waterway to the edge of the sheet.

Figure B-4 illustrates the procedure. You

STAGE B: COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES

FIG. B-1 KEEL, STEM & STERNPOST

PIN OR DOWEL ALL PARTS

GLUE

TAPER THE

STEM

1/8" 1/16"

LASER-CUT

PARTS

GLUE

FIG. B-2 RUDDER

PINTLE & GUDGEON DETAIL

1/16"

ROUND THE EDGES

CUT TENON

LASER-CUT

RUDDER

CUT

HOLE

PINTLE

BRASS

CHAIN

STRAP

GUDGEON

TILLER (LASER-CUT)

1/8"

TAPER & ROUND FRONT

RUDDER

(TOP VIEW)

STERNPOST

(TOP VIEW)

GUDGEON

BRASS

STRIP

PIN IS OPTIONAL

PINTLE

SOLDER

OR

EPOXY PIN

FIG. B-3 JIG

FOR MAST HOLES

FIG. B-4 WATERWAY NIBBING STRAKE

FIG. B-6 WATERWAY STRIP

& WALE

MAST RAKE ANGLE

WOOD

BLOCK

DRILL

GUIDE

ANGLED

HOLE

ANGLED

HOLE

WATERWAY

CUT IF INCLUDING

THE NIBS

WATERWAY

STRIP

WATERWAY

INBOARD

WALE

CUT-OFF TO

ADD WATERWAY

TO EDGE

GLUE ON

TOP OR EDGE

SCORED DECKING

DRILL

GUIDE

WITH "V"

SLOT

7

could also install a waterway without cutting

the nibs. Another way, the scored decking

could go into the bulwark, and a thin water-

way glued on top of the decking.

6. Creating the Ladder Way Hole

The ladder way shown on the plan indicates

an open hatch with a ladder. If you want to

do this you must cut a hole into the deck. If

not, the hatch can have covers. The details

will be discussed in Stage D.

7. Cutting Out the Gunports

& Transom Ports

Cut the gunport openings and transom ports

according to plan. Be careful cutting the

gunports. After cutting, the remaining bul-

wark will be fragile until the cap rail is

installed. Use a fine razor saw blade to cut

the vertical sides and then cut the bottom

with a hobby knife.

8. Installing Bulwark Stanchions

& Cap Rail

With the bulwarks in a fragile state, now is

the time to install the cap rail and bulwark

stanchions. Install the stanchions first, then

the cap rail. While you are at it, up forward,

add the inboard side of the stem, knight-

heads and hawse timbers, and drill the hawse

holes. Also, add the doublers in way of the

sheet and tack sheave holes, and the bow

fairlead for rigging lines atop the rail. Drill

the fairlead holes before installation. Figure

B-5 should clarify the details.

9. Installing the Outboard

Waterway Strip & Wale

The waterway on the deck of the real ship is

a wide plank that protrudes outboard just

past the normal hull planking. For our solid

wood hull you need to add a 1/6" square

strip outside the hull port and starboard for

the full length to simulate the outboard edge

of the waterway.

Below the waterway strips add a 1/32" thick

wale strip. The profile view on the plans

show the wale shape. Note that it is wider

forward and tapers to a more narrow plank

aft. See Figure B-6 for a cross section view in

way of the waterway and wale.

Before proceeding with additional work it is

best to mount the hull. This step will help

prevent details from becoming damaged dur-

ing handling and will allow you to make any

alignments that require a true waterline. Prop-

er mounting of the hull is very important and

will allow the accurate building and aligning

of the remainder of the model. The kit does

not include any parts for mounting. However,

the following suggestions are provided.

1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals -

A common mounting for ship models is a

wooden baseboard with two wooden or brass

pedestals. For a homemade board, a nice

looking hardwood such as cherry, walnut,

and maple would be ideal. You can round

the top edges of the baseboard, or cut a sim-

ple chamfer. If you own a router, or can

borrow one, you will be able to cut a nice

fancy edge on the baseboard. Stain the base,

if necessary, and give it a few coats of varnish

or finish like Minwax.

The pedestals could be wood or brass. One

pedestal needs to be longer than the other

because you should have the model mounted

with the waterline parallel to the baseboard.

If you decide on this type mounting you

should already have drilled pilot holes for the

screws as noted earlier. For Dapper Tom, the

pedestals should be located near station 4

and 7. If something went awry and the

waterline is not level, you can add a brass

shim under one pedestal to correct it.

2. Launching Ways - A second type of

mounting that can be employed is the

launching ways, which are most suitable for

models without sails. Figure C-1 illustrates a

simple design. Drilling of the keel is still

required to insert rods that anchor the model

to the ways. The launching ways should be

mounted on a baseboard or could be placed

in a diorama comprised of boatyard ground

activity.

Baseboards, pedestals, and launching way

kits are available from Model Expo

(www.modelexpo-online.com).

STAGE C: MOUNTING THE HULL

FIG. B-5 BULWARK DETAILS

FIG. C-1 LAUNCHING WAY MOUNTING

ALIGNMENT

PIN OR NAIL LASER-CUT RAIL

FORWARD

TYPICAL BULWARK

STANCHION

GUNPORT

FRAMING DOUBLER IN

WAY OF SHEET

& TACK SHEAVE

HOLES

AFT SIDE OF

STEM PIECE

KNIGHTHEAD

HAWSE

TIMBER

LASER-CUT RAIL RIGGING

FAIRLEAD

BLOCK

PIN

RAIL

CL

CL

CL

CL

BOWSPRIT

HOLE

STRIPWOOD RAIL AFT

WATERLINE

PARALLEL TO BASE METAL ROD

OR WOOD

DOWEL

IN KEEL

BASE

KEEL BLOCKS

CROSS TIMBERS

SUPPORT

RAIL

SIDE SUPPORT

STRUTS

1/4" SQUARE

WOOD FOR

1/8" - 1/4" SCALE

MODELS

SUPPORTBLOCKS

HEIGHT SET SO MODEL WATERLINE

WILL BE PARALLEL TO BASE

SIDE SUPPORT

STRUTS P/S

ABOUT

1.5 X BEAM

OF HULL

8

STAGE D: ADDING THE HULL DETAILS

1. General Notes

Don’t forget to file off any flash on Britannia

metal fittings, clean the fittings and then prime

them with grey primer before final paint.

Locate deck fittings and place them into

position. This can be done by measuring

from mast holes, station lines and centerline

(tick off from plans). Next, mark their posi-

tions by drilling holes into the deck and

inserting locating pins or dowels which will

be inserted into holes that you will need to

drill into each deck piece. Before permanent

installation, paint them according to the

Dapper Tom color scheme or your choice of

color. Having been pre-fitted, and with the

pins in place, they will be easy to put back

where they belong.

If wooden parts are not painted prior to

installation, at least make sure you have the

part sanded and ready for painting in place.

Use as little glue as necessary on parts. Watch

out for that glue squeeze-out. It’s hard to

remove if left to harden.

2. Transom Rail, Mouldings,

Counter Detail, & Main Boom

Sheet Rod

The transom rail (or taffrail as it is generally

called) curves both fore and aft and across the

top and sides of the transom so it is best cut

out of a wider piece of stripwood. Some steam

bending may be required at the side corners,

or the side rail portion can be cut to shape

from a wider block.

The transom extends beyond the sides of the

hull. This extension is not a part of the

machine-carved hull, so you first must add

the extension before installing the rails.

On the sides, the rail meets a fashion piece

that curves down to the waterway strip and

wale. Along the bottom of the transom out-

board, add a moulding strip. Figure D-1

should clear up this often confusing area.

Inboard on the counter, there is a a small

block to be added on centerline just forward

of the rudder post opening. This is actually

the top of the sternpost on a real ship. On the

transom, fit the main boom sheet traveler rod

made from wire. See Figure D-2 for a sketch

of the area.

3. Catheads, Bulwark Sheaves,

Cavils, & Gunport Lids

When you installed the bulwark stanchions

earlier, most of the bow timbers and hawse

holes were finished at that time. There are

still a few more details for the bulwarks

unless you got these done while installing the

bulwark stanchions.

The catheads are laser cut parts. Before

installing, drill the holes for the anchor tackle

and add the eyebolts for the jibboom guys

(Figure D-3).

FIG. D-1 TRANSOM RAIL & FASHION PIECE

FIG. D-2 INBOARD STERN DETAILFIG. D-2 INBOARD STERN DETAIL FIG. D-3 CATHEADS

FIG. D-4 CAVILS FIG. D-6 LADDER WAY

TAFFRAIL

TAFFRAIL

SIDE

TAFFRAIL

MOULDING

STRIP

FASHION

PIECE

TRANSOM

EXTENSION

PIECE

JOINT CAP

RAIL

SIDE

TAFFRAIL

WALE

WALE

JOINT

TRANSOM

COUNTER

DECK

DRILL

HOLES

FOR

ANCHOR

TACKLE

EYEBOLTS

FOR

JIBBOOM

GUYS

LASER-CUT

CATHEAD

CLEATFOR

BELAYING

ANCHOR

TACKLE

THIS SIDE OF

CATHEAD MAY

BE SHAPED TO

FIT FLUSH

AGAINST

BULWARK

CAP RAIL

BULWARK

HOOK TO EYEBOLT ON SIDE OF STANCHION

CL

BOOM SHEET

TRAVELER ROD

JOINT

FASHION

PIECE TAFFRAIL

CAP RAIL

SIDE TAFFRAIL

FASHION PIECE

WATERWAY STRIP

WATERWAY

STRIP

SECTION THROUGH TRANSOM

OUTBOARD VIEW AT CORNER

SIDE VIEW

TRANSOM

EXTENSION

PIECE MOULDING

STRIP ALONG

BOTTOM OF

TRANSOM

TAFFRAIL

BLOCK REPRESENTING

TOP OF STERN POST

TRAVELER ROD

RUDDER & TILLER

BLOCK

STERN

POST

SECTION

THROUGH

RUDDER HOLE

HOLE IN CARVED HULL

LADDER - MAKE FROM

STRIPWOOD

OPTIONAL

HATCH COVER

SCRIBE

OR GLUE

INDIVIDUAL

BOARDS

1 OR 2

PIECES

PIN OR

JUST GLUE 1/32" THICK CAVIL

DECK

CAP RAIL

COAMINGS - CUT FROM STRIPWOOD

LIFT LINE

LIFT LINE

LID

CASTING

DRILL HOLE,

GLUE LINE

GLUE OR PIN CASTING

TO CAP RAIL

FIG. D-5 GUNPORT LIDS

9

Install the cavils, cut from stripwood, across

the bulwark stanchions in locations shown on

the plans (Figure D-4).

The gunport lids are Britannia castings. Install

these in the open position. Add the line for

retrieving and holding up the line. The cast-

ing has a ring where the line attaches but it is

molded in flat with the casting so is useless for

attaching a line. Drill a small hole at this ring,

insert and glue the line (Figure D-5).

4. Deck Bitts, Fife Rails, Pin Rails,

Capstan, Galley Funnel, Hatches,

Ladder Way, Pumps, & Skylight

The main hatch, galley hatch, capstan, galley

funnel, bowsprit bitts, riding bitts and fife

rails are all Britannia castings. Drill the neces-

sary holes and install the fittings. The riding

bitts have a stripwood bar between the port

and starboard bitt. Glue this in place.

Fife Rails - Each of the fife rails consists of

the topsail sheet bitts casting and two

rail/stanchion pieces. The sheet bitt casting

slopes aft, so drill the holes in the deck

accordingly. Drill holes for belaying pins in

the rails and glue the rails to the Bitts. The rail

stanchions also require holes in the deck.

Galley Hatch & Galley Funnel - The base

of the galley funnel and the galley hatch cast-

ings are slightly larger than shown on the deck

plan. They will still fit, just adjust by moving

the funnel aft a bit.

Ladder Way - As noted earlier, the ladder way

hatch can be open showing the ladder or

closed with hatch covers. The hatch coam-

ings, ladder, and/or covers are to be made

from stripwood (Figure D-6).

Skylight - Figure D-7 illustrates the con-

struction of the wooden skylight. The top is

rather small for much detail so the glass can

be simulated by painted light blue with black

ink bars.

Pin Rails - There is a pin rail between the

bulwark cap rails forward and pin rails at vari-

ous locations along the bulwarks. Make the

rails from stripwood, and drill the holes and

install the belaying pins before gluing the rails

in place.

Pumps - Two wooden tub pumps are

required on the deck just aft of the main

mast fife rails. No casting is provided so these

must be made from wood. Figure D-8 shows

a suggested method.

5. Cannons

Now the fun begins. You will find the work a

little tedious, but take your time and you will

have some nice deck detail. The carriages and

cannon barrels are Britannia castings. Glue

the barrels atop the carriages. Drill a hole on

each side of the carriage and insert a small

eyebolt. The eyebolts are for hooking the gun

outhaul tackles. Below the eyebolts drill

another hole and add an eyebolt and split

ring. This fitting is a fairlead for the breech

line, but at our model scale, this fitting could

be omitted. Your choice.

After the guns are fitted and painted, add an

eyebolt and split ring to form a ring bolt in

the bulwark stanchions on each side of the

gunports. This is for securing the breech line.

Figure D-9 illustrates the cannon rigged in

position. In back of each gun on the deck,

there is an eyebolt and split ring as shown on

the plan. This fitting is for a tackle to inhaul

or train the cannons during battle. The actual

tackle is portable, so it could be omitted on

the model.

6. Channels & Side Ladder

There are three channel pieces port and star-

board that support the lower deadeyes. Make

these from stripwood and shape the inboard

edge to the hull curvature. Drill holes large

enough for the deadeye strops to pass

through. Or, notch the hole and add a strip

over the edge after the deadeyes are installed

(Figure D-10).

The side ladder is three wooden steps on the

outside of the bulwark. Make it from strip-

wood (Figure D-11).

FIG. D-7 SKYLIGHT FIG. D-8 PUMPS

FIG. D-9 CANNON RIG

FIG. D-10 CHANNELS FIG. D-11 SIDE LADDER

PAINT TO FAKE

GLASS & BARS

BREECH

LINE

CASTING

INHAUL TACKLE

EYEBOLT IN DECK

CAP RAIL CAP RAIL

2 PIECES

OR CARVE

FROM ONE

STRIP

WATERWAY STRIP

CHANNEL

WATERWAY STRIP

BULLWARK

HOLE FOR

CHAIN PLATE

OPTION - CUT SLOT,

ADD SEPARATE STRIP

AFTER DEADEYES

ARE INSTALLED

SIDE

TOP

OUTHAUL

TACKLE

BOTH SIDES

1/32"

BASSWOOD

HANDLE

SIDE BRACKET

WIRE

HOLE

IN DECK

FILE FLATS OR

LEAV E ROUND

WOOD DOWEL

1/16"

BASSWOOD

D

S

S

S

Most references call a mast a mast, and

anything else such as a boom, yard, gaff,

and bowsprit a spar. Let’s stick with

that definition.

There are two mast assemblies for the Dapper

Tom. They are a foremast & main mast. The

foremast is built up in three sections: lower

mast, topmast, & topgallant mast. The main

mast is built up in only two sections: lower

mast & topmast. Each of the sections are con-

nected at the doublings (upper and lower

mast overlap) by mast caps and trestletrees

which in this kit are Britannia metal castings.

Lower mast trestletrees are supported from

the mast by bibbs (or cheeks) cut from wood

sheet. The castings for the trestletrees include

crosstrees and tops where appropriate, all in

one casting which eliminates a lot of assembly.

The mast and spar dowels included in the kit

are round. True to scale, masts and spars must

be tapered for their full length.

1. Shaping the Masts

Establishing the Correct Curve

of the Masts

The correct shape of the masts are shown on

the plans. Each of the mast sections should

be tapered in a slight (parabolic) curve (Fig-

ure E-1). However, for this kit scale, it may

be difficult to accomplish a parabolic shape.

A straight line taper should be sufficient.

The best way to taper the masts from dowels

is to cut the taper into squares, then

octagons, and finish by sanding into a round

shape (Figure E-2).

Shaping the Mastheads & Heels

The next areas of the masts to be shaped are

the mastheads and heels where the masts join

together at the doublings (see plans for loca-

tion). Each mast has a head and a heel

located at its uppermost and bottom ends,

respectively. The masthead on the lower

masts and fore topmast is from the trestle-

trees upward to the cap.

T

o accommodate the mast caps and trestletree

fittings, the mastheads must be shaped square.

The lower masts also have flat sides below the

trestletrees where the trestletree cheeks (also

called bibbs) are to be glued.

The heel of the topmasts and topgallant mast

is round where it passes through the mast cap

at the top of the doubling and square at the

bottom at the trestletrees. The transition

from the square to the round portion is

shown on the plans. A fid (protruding bolt of

wood or iron) is located in each topmast and

topgallant mast heel to prevent them from

falling through the holes formed by the

trestletrees. The lower masts at the deck are

octagonal in shape. As an option the masts

could be left round.

Figure E-3 illustrates the shaping of the

mastheads, heels and the fid. Since you are

dealing with wood dowels, the sketch also

shows how to build the square or octagonal

ends by adding wood to the cut-end. Adding

wood is necessary because the dimension

across the flats of the square must be the

same as the dowel diameter. Consequently,

the diagonal of the square is greater than the

dowel diameter.

2. Assembling the Masts

First, install the lower mast top fitting, then

the topmast heel into the fitting. Make sure

you already have the fid installed into the

topmast heel. Then slide the mast cap over

the top mast and secure the cap onto the

lower masthead. Make sure the topmast lines

up straight with the lower mast when look-

ing fore and aft and that the two mast

sections are parallel when looking from the

side. You can now glue the fittings. Assemble

the fore topgallant mast to the topmast in

the same manner.

Mast Details - Before painting and staining

the masts there are a few details to add. The

fore topgallant mast and the main topmast

should have a shoulder where the lifts and

stays are seized near the top of the mast. If

you have not tapered the masts with the

shoulder, do so now, or cut a groove at that

point. This is needed so the rigging lines do

not slide down.

The topgallant and topsail tyes pass through

sheaves in the masts. You don’t need a sheave

on the model, but drill a hole through the

masts for the lines.

The head of the fore topmast has a cheek

block port and starboard with two sheaves.

Make the block with stripwood and drill a

hole where the sheaves would be. The holes

on the starboard side are for passing the jib

10

STAGE E: MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION

FIG. E-1 TAPER ON MASTS & SPARS

FIG. E-2 SHAPING THE MASTS

FIG. E-3 SHAPING MASTHEADS & HEELS

CENTER OF A YARD, OR MAXIMUM DIAMETER

OF A MAST, GAFF, OR BOOM

THIS IS THE DESIRED CURVE. MATHEMATICALLY, IT IS A PARABOLA.

IT’S CLOSE TO THE ARC OF A CIRCLE. SIMPLY TAPER THE SPAR

GRADUALLY FROM MAXIMUM DIAMETER TO THE END.

FOR YARDS, MAKE SURE BOTH SIDES ARE THE SAME.

STRAIGHT LINE

DRAW SQUARE ON END

MINIMUM

DIAMETER

MAXIMUM

DIAMETER

MAST

DOWELTAPER

REQUIRED

SQUARE

SQUARE

1. CUT SQUARE

2. ADD WOOD

OCTAGON

SQUARE

FINAL SHAPES

TOPMAST & TOP GALLANT HEEL

FORE TOP MASTHEAD

LOWER MASTS AT DECK

SPAR DIAMETER BUILD-UP

LOWER MASTHEADS

FID

ROUND

ROUND

SQUARE

TRESTLE TREE

CHAMFER

EDGES

TOP

TRESTLE

TREES

ROUND

BELOW

TRESTLE

TREES

ROUND

BELOW

TRESTLE

TREES

8-SIDED

(OCTAGON)

FLAT SIDES IN

WAY OF THE

CHEEKS &

UNDER THE

TRESTLE

TREES

1ST CUT

SQUARE

2ND CUT

8-SIDED

SANDED

ROUND

11

stay and the jibsail halliard. The port side

block is not used or is for other lines not

rigged on this model. Figure E-4 illustrates

the mast details.

Main Boom Rest - The main mast has a rest

for the boom. The rest is a laser cut part but

requires support chocks cut from stripwood

(Figure E-5).

3. Shaping & Detailing the Spars

Yards

Shape the yards in the same manner as the

masts. The maximum diameter of each yard is

at its center. Taper the yards outward from

each center.

Yard Details - Cut a shoulder on each end of

the yards which is a stop for lifts and

footropes. Also, drill holes (sheaves on real

ship) in the ends of the yards for the sheets

from the sail above. Though the plans do not

show them, most likely the yards have chocks

in way of the parrels and trusses.

Jackstays (12A) consists of a series of eyebolts

thru which a line is passed and fixed at the

ends of the yard. The line and eyebolts are

used for attaching the head of the sail and the

footrope stirrups. Note that the eyebolts are

on top of the yard but slightly forward of the

yards centerline. You have a lot of holes to

drill for the eyebolts. While you are detailing

the yards you might as well add the jackstay

lines after the eyebolts are installed.

Figure E-6 illustrates a typical yard.

Boom & Gaffs

The main boom and fore and aft gaffs also

taper, but the maximum diameter of each spar

should be about one-third from its fore end.

Like the yards, cut a shoulder at the outer end

of these spars. The boom and gaffs require

that jaws be added to their throats for joining

to the masts. The jaws are laser-cut wood

parts in this kit (Figure E-7).

Bowsprit, Jibboom, & Dolphin Striker

The bowsprit is tapered forward from the

hull. At the outer end, cut the square shape to

fit the bowsprit cap (Britannia casting found

in kit). The aft end of the bowsprit tapers

from the bow back to the bitts. From the end

of the stem back to the bitts on deck, the

shape is octagonal with a square end to fit the

bowsprit bitts hole. If using the dowel, you

will need to add wood as you did with the

squares on the masts. Or, you could forget

this task and just leave the bowsprit round.

The jibboom should be straight from the aft

end to the bowsprit cap, then tapered forward

of the cap. At the outer end cut a shoulder for

rigging stops.

Where is the aft end of the jibboom? The

plans show only that it stops at the bow, but

this is not the complete story. Typically, Balti-

more Clipper jibbooms ended somewhere

along the outer end of the bowsprit lashed

down to a saddle on the bowsprit. So for

Dapper Tom, it is recommended that you stop

the jibboom just aft of the forestay.

The dolphin striker is a simple tapered round

spar. Cut a flat at the upper end where it will

be glued to the bowsprit cap. At the bottom

of the spar, a wooden or metal cleat is fitted to

each side, which guide the fore topgallant stay

and martingale stay.

Figure E- 8 illustrates the bowsprit, jibboom,

and dolphin striker details.

Assembly -Glue the bowsprit cap onto the

bowsprit. Make a saddle for the jibboom,

then insert the jibboom. Make sure the jib-

boom lines up with the bowsprit and then

glue it to the saddle atop the bowsprit. Glue

the dolphin striker (proper name martingale)

to the bowsprit cap. Add the bees for the fore

topmast stays, chock stops for rigging collars,

lashings, eyebolts, and other details as shown

in Figure E-9.

4. Installing the Mast & Bowsprit

Assemblies

Before installing the masts, shape and slide on

the mast coats which are laser cut rings (Fig-

ure E-10). The mast coats on a real ship are

actually canvas covers over the wedges holding

the masts in place.

Place the masts and bowsprit in the holes you

FIG. E-4 MAST DETAILS

FIG. E-6 TYPICAL YARD

FIG. E-8 BOWSPRIT,

JIBBOOM &

DOLPHIN STRIKER

CHEEKS P/S

MAKE FROM

WOOD SHEET

SHOULDER AT UPPER PART

OF MAIN TOPMAST & FORE

TOPGALLANT MAST

FORE TOP

MAIN TOP SIMILAR

HOLE FOR YARD TYE

CROSS TREES

TOPGALLANT

MAST

CHEEK

BLOCK P/S

DRILL HOLE

FOR SHROUDS

TRESTLE TREES

CROSS TREES

CASTING

CASTINGS

SHEAVE HOLES

TRESTLE TREE

HOLE FOR

TOPSAIL YARD TYE

FORE TOPMAST HEAD

HOLE FOR SAIL

ABOVE SHEET

SHOULDER

JACKSTAY

EYEBOLTS

FORWARD

FORWARD

FIG. E-5

MAIN BOOM REST

FIG. E-7 BOOM &

GAFF JAWS

LASER-CUT

RING

JACKSTAY LINE

FED THROUGH EYEBOLTS–

FIX AT ENDS

CHOCKS IN WAY OF

PARRELS & TRUSSES

CHOCKS

FROM

STRIPWOOD

PARREL

FLATTEN

SIDES

LASER-CUT

JAW HALF

AT CAP

TAPER

FLAT AT CAP

AT

BITTS AT BOW

AT CAP

SHOULDER

SHOULDER

AT END OF STEM BOWSPRIT

JIBBOOM

DOLPHIN STRIKER

STRAIGHT TAPER

KNOT

12

drilled into the hull. It is suggested that you

do not glue the masts and bowsprit into the

holes. The rigging will hold them in position.

Furthermore, if the model gets restored in the

future, the masts and bowsprits can be easily

removed.

Check the alignment of the masts and

bowsprit. If not straight, looking aft, or at the

correct angle shown on the plans, you can

shim the holes. If necessary, drill the holes

larger to accommodate shimming.

1.Rigging Identification

Most all of the rigging is identified on the rig-

ging plan by number. The small belaying pin

plan on the rigging plan shows a recommend-

ed location for belaying the numbered lines.

The key to the plan numbers is as follows:

Note: Numbers 1 through 24 are standing

rigging. Use the black rigging line supplied in

the kit. Numbers 25 through 50 are running

rigging. Use the tan rigging line supplied. If a

standing rig has a tackle on the end, use tan

line for the tackle. P/S indicates lines that are

both port and starboard.

1. Shrouds (for all masts, P/S)

2. Ratlines (for all shrouds, P/S)

3. Deadeyes (for all shrouds, P/S)

4. Lanyards (for all deadeyes, P/S)

5. Fore Topgallant Mast Stay

6. Jib Stay (includes an ouhaul tackle at the

bowsprit cap)

7. Traveler Ring at Jib Stay

8. Fore T

opmast Stay (P/S)

9. Forestay

10. Footropes (for all yards, P/S)

11. Stirrups (for all yards, P/S)

12. Fore & Main Topmast

Futtock Shrouds (P/S)

12A. Jackstays (for all yards, P/S))

13. Fore & Main Topmast Backstays (P/S)

14. Fore Topgallant Mast Backstays (P/S)

15. Lifts (for all yards, P/S)

16. Main Stay (P/S)

17. Spring Stay

18. Main Topmast Stay

19. Bobstay

20. Bowsprit Shrouds (P/S)

21. Martingale Stays

22. Martingale Backropes (P/S)

23. Manropes

24. Fore & Main Lower Yard Slings

25. Fore & Main Sail Tacks (P/S)

26. Fore & Main Sail Sheets (P/S)

27. Fore & Main Sail Clew Garnets (P/S)

28. Fore & Main Topsail Sheets (P/S)

29. Fore & Main Topsail Clew Lines (P/S)

30. Fore Topgallant Sail Sheets (P/S)

31. Fore Topgallant Sail Clew Lines (P/S)

32. Fore Lower Yard Braces (P/S)

33. Fore Topsail Yard Braces (P/S)

34. Fore Topgallant Yard Braces (P/S)

35. Main Lower Yard Braces (P/S)

36. Main Topsail Yard Braces (P/S)

37. Fore & Main Topsail Yard Tye

38. Fore & Main Topsail Yard Halliard

Runner & Fall

39. Fore Topgallant Yard Tye

40. Fore Topgallant Yard Halliard & Fall

41. Fore & Main Gaff Peak Halliards

42. Fore & Main Gaff Throat Halliards

43. Fore & Main Gaff Vangs (P/S)

44. Main Boom Topping Lifts (P/S)

45. Main Boom Sheet

46. Main Gaff Ensign Halliards

47. Jib Halliards

48. Jib Inhaul

49. Jib Sheet (P/S)

50. Anchor T

ackle & Fall P/S)

A few rigs are not numbered but are shown

on the rigging plan to some degree. They are

as follows and will be detailed later in these

instructions:

Parrel (or parral) - On upper yards which

can be raised or lowered, these lines hold the

yard against the mast. Beads, or rollers, on the

lines allow the yards to move freely along the

mast. There is a detail shown on the upper

right side of the plan.

Truss - On lower yards, there are no parrels,

instead, a fixed line holds the yards against the

mast. It has two running ends, each of which

has a tackle secured to eyebolts in the deck at

the mast and the tackle belays to the fife rail.

Thus, the truss can be tightened or loosened

at deck level. The truss is rope on the Dapper

Tom. On later ships the rope truss was

replaced by an iron fitting.

Jibboom Guys - These guys are shown in a

plan view on the left hand side of the rigging

plan. Note that the inboard ends have a tackle

at the cat heads.

If you are not familiar with the names and

functions of rigging lines, the book How to

Build First-Rate Ship Models From Kits by

Ben Lankford contains a description of Nauti-

cal terms (See Bibliography).

Note: Throughout these instructions the low-

est yards and their sails are referred to as

“Lower Yards or Sails”. A more proper term is

“Course Yards or Sails”.

2. Line, Block, & Deadeye Sizes

There is a limited number of different size rig-

ging lines in the kit. The following is a

suggested list of line size use:

Standing Rigging (Black Line)

0.008" Dia. Line - All Ratlines, Fore & Main

Topmast Shroud Lanyards, Fore Topgallant

Shrouds, Topgallant Yard Lifts, & Fore Top-

gallant Stay.

0.012" Dia. Line - All Yard Footropes &

Stirrups, Main Lower Yard & Topsail Yard

Lifts, Fore & Main Topmast Shrouds & Fut-

tock Shrouds, Fore Topgallant Backstays,

Jibboom Guys, Fore & Main Lower Shroud

Lanyards, Martingale Stay & Backropes,

Bowsprit Shrouds, Fore Topmast Stays, Main

Topmast Stay, & Jib Stay.

0.021" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Lower

Shrouds, Fore & Main Topmast Backstays,

Spring Stay, & Lower Fore Yard Lifts

0.028" Dia. Line - Forestay, Main Stays,

Bobstay, & Fore & Main Lower Yard Slings

& T

russes.

FIG. E-9 BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY

FIG. E-10 MASTCOAT

STAGE F: GENERAL RIGGING INFORMATION

SADDLE BLOCK

LASHING LASER-CUT RING

MASTCOAST

ROUND

TOP EDGES

CAP CASTING

CLEATS

BEES FOR

FORE TOPMAST STAYS

CHOCK STOPS FOR

BOBSTAY & BOWSPRIT

SHROUD COLLARS

CHOCK STOPS

FOR FORESTAY

COLLAR

HOLE FOR JIB STAY

HOLE FOR FORE

TOPGALLANT STAY

EYEBOLT FOR

JIB IN HOLE

13

Running Rigging (Tan Line)

0.008" Dia. Line - Topgallant Sail Clew lines

& Sheets, Fore & Main Topsail Clew Lines,

Topgallant Yard Braces, Fore & Main Gaff

Vangs, & Main Gaff Ensign Halliards.

0.012" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Topsail Yard

Braces & Sheets, All Jackstays, Fore & Main

Sail Clue Garnets, Jib Stay Outhaul Tackle,

Jibboom Guys Tackle, Boom Topping Lifts,

Jib Halliard & Sheets & Downhaul, Jib Stay

Inhaul & Outhaul tackle, & Topgallant Yard

Tye & Halliards.

0.018" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Sail Tacks

& Sheets, Main Boom Sheet, Fore & Main

Topsail Yard Tyes & Halliards, Fore & Main

Yard Truss Tackle, Gaff Peak & Throat Hal-

liards, Lower Fore & Main Yard Braces, &

Anchor Tackle.

0.040" Dia. Line - Anchor Cable.

Blocks - Like the lines, the blocks for running

rigging are not sized on the plan. However,

blocks are sized to suit the line that runs

through their sheaves. The following list sug-

gests the block sizes that should be used with

the line sizes provided:

0.008" Line - Use 3/32" blocks.

0.012" Line - Use 1/8" blocks.

0.018" Line - Use 5/32" blocks.

Long Tackle Blocks - The plans show several

blocks which are long blocks with two sheaves

in line rather than side by side. None are

included in the kit. However, you can glue

two single blocks together end to end to

simulate the block, or simply substitute a

common double block.

Deadeyes - Use the smaller 3/32" Deadeyes

for the Fore & Main Topmast Shrouds, Fore

Topgallant Backstay, & Bowsprit Shrouds.

Use the 5/32" Deadeyes for Fore & Main

Lower Shrouds, Fore Topmast Backstays,

Main Topmast Backstay, & the Bobstay.

3. Rigging Sail Lines

The Dapper T

om model is intended to be

completed with sails removed. However, even

without sails, some of the rigging lines such as

sheets, tacks, halliards, and clew lines are to

remain, along with their lead blocks. Some of

the lines are to be hooked together, such as

the jib halliard and sheets, and yard clew lines

and sheets. The running ends of these lines

should be belayed at their proper locations.

Installing the sail rigging lines on the Dapper

T

om adds tremendously to the look of the

model, especially at the jib stay where the

contrasting black stay and light running lines,

along with their blocks, create interesting

visual detail.

4. Applying Beeswax to the Lines

Before placing the lines on the model, run the

line through a block of beeswax several times.

Then, run the line through your fingers. This

heats the wax slightly and rubs it into the line.

The beeswax will cut down on fuzz and pro-

tect the line from moisture.

5. Seizing the Lines

Seizing of lines (binding or securing two lines

or different parts of the same line) can be

done as shown in Figure F-1. To prevent seiz-

ings from unraveling, add a touch of CA glue.

For seizings, use the 0.008" line in the kit or

sewing thread.

6. Blocks, Strops, & Fittings

Around the time the Dapper Tom was built,

the use of rope for stropping blocks, and for

parrels and slings on yards, was more com-

mon than iron fittings. However, such items

as iron-stropped blocks, hooks, and eyebolts

were available. There is no sure way to deter-

mine exactly what was on the Dapper Tom.

The details shown in the sketches and plans

illustrate only one of the ways it may have

been done. A block shown lashed into an eye-

bolt could just as likely have been lashed

around the spar without the use of an eyebolt.

A strop is an iron or rope band or grommet

around the shell of a block for attaching lines.

The blocks in the kit are fairly small, so it will

not be easy for you to create the exact detail-

ing. Some modeling shortcuts are in order.

See Figure F-2 for some life-size ship details

and model options.

7. Rigging Tools & Belaying Lines

Figure F-3 illustrates some homemade tools

that are essential aids in the rigging process.

Figure F-4 shows some suggestions for belay-

ing lines to belaying pins and cleats.

A word of advice - Rigging plans are hard to

follow. Lines cross each other and they some-

times go behind something or seem to

disappear into thin air. Before you start the

rigging, get a notebook and do a small sketch

of each rigging line on a separate page. Sketch

in where the lines end, such as at an eyebolt

and label these points. If something seems to

be missing when you view your sketches, seek

help or find the answer in a rigging text (con-

sult the bibliography). Use the final sketches

as you rig the model. You won’t need to crawl

your way through the rigging plan again.

When rigging such items as yards, booms

and gaffs, do as much rigging as possible with

the item in hand before installing the part on

the model. Seize the lines to the part and

FIG. F-1 SEIZINGS

FIG. F-2

BLOCKS,

STROPS,

& FITTINGS

CLOVE HITCH

WRAP

THREAD

HOOK

BECKET

EYEBOLT

LASHING

ROPE STROP

TWIST

WIRE

GLUE

GLUE

LINE OR WIRE

SEIZE &

GLUE

NO HOOK

USING RIGGING LINE

SLIPKNOT & GLUE

CLOVE

HITCH

WITH

THREAD

LOOP

THROUGH

LINE

PULL TIGHT,

GLUE, THEN

CUT-OFF ENDS

SLIP KNOT

TOUCH WITH

CA GLUE

CUT-OFF

END

TUCK UP & GLUE

FAKED ON SMALL BLOCK OR SPAR

MODEL OPTIONS

SHIP

SHIP

MODEL

FOR WRAPPING AROUND

YARDS & MASTS

14

FIG. F-3 RIGGING TOOLS

FIG. F-4 BELAYING LINES

CUT WITH SNIPS

PUSH

WOOD HANDLE BRASS ROD

PULL TIGHT

& GLUE

REMOVABLE PIN

THREAD

JIG

ADD WHITE

GLUE TO STIFFEN

FOR AMORE OPEN,

REALISTIC LOOK,

OMIT THREAD &

GLUE COILS TO EACH

OTHER

USE TOOL TO PUSH LINE UNDER PIN

PULL

FLATTEN END,

FILE SHAPE

LARGE

SEWING

NEEDLE

LARGE

SEWING

NEEDLE

BELAYING LINE TO PIN

SEPARATE ROPE COILS

1. Bowsprit Rigging

Begin the standing rigging with the bowsprit.

Add the gammoning (0.012" or 0.021" black

line), which ties the bowsprit to the stem.

Wrap the gammoning neatly, laying each part

of the line side by side as it is wrapped. Next,

install the bobstay (19), then the bowsprit

shrouds (20). Figure G-1 illustrates the rig to

this point. Rigging at the bowsprit will be

completed while and after installing the head

stays. But first, the mast shrouds will be

installed since the head stays and all fore and

aft stays go over the top of the shrouds at the

mastheads.

2. Shrouds & Backstays

The lower shrouds (1), topmast backstays

(13), and topgallant backstays (14) are set up

with deadeyes and lanyards at the channels

and attached along the outside of the ship

using chain plates. The lower deadeye strops

and chain plates are to be made of steel wire

provided in the kit (Figure G-2). T

o set up the

shrouds, make a temporary jig of wire to

space the deadeyes as you do the seizings (Fig-

ure G-3). The sketch also shows the sequence

for reeving the lanyards and the proper

sequence for the shrouds going around the

mastheads. Keep an eye on the masts as you

rig the shrouds, so you will not pull them out

of line. After the shrouds are in place, proceed

to add the ratlines and the sheer

poles (Figure G-4). The sketch

shows ship practice and various

model options.

The topmast shrouds are set up

similar to the lower shrouds but

instead of having chain plates they

set up to futtock shrouds (12). The

rigging plan seems to indicate that

the futtock shrouds go to the mast,

but this is not the practice for the

period. They actually seize to the

lower shrouds (Figure G-5).

On this particular ship the topgal-

have enough running rigging

line so it can reach to its final

destination, such as a belaying

pin, with a little line left. Bet-

ter to be too long than too

short. Standing rigging such as

yard footropes are included, as

these would be very difficult

to do with the yard hanging at

the mast.

STAGE G: STANDING RIGGING

FIG. G-1 BOBSTAY & BOWSPRIT SHROUDS

GAMMONING

SHROUDS

P/S

BOBSTAY

COLLAR FOR BOBSTAY

& SHROUDS

FIG. G-2

DEADEYE

STROPS

& CHAIN

PLATES

STROP

TWIST

MODEL

OPTION

CHAINPLATE

NAIL

BACKING

LINK

WIRE

15

lant shrouds have no deadeyes or ratlines. The

shrouds pass through the crosstrees and seize

to the topmast shrouds.

3. Foremast (Head) Stays

Forestay -The forestay (9) sets up to a closed

and open heart and collar at the bowsprit.

The closed heart shown on the plan appears

rather large for this ship. Normally, the open

heart is simpler, and does not straddle the

bowsprit as shown. That would make the

heart much too wide. The hearts in the kit are

laser-cut and reflect the modification. File a

groove around both of the hearts to receive

the stay and collar (Figure G-6).

Figure G-7 illustrates the remaining head

stays; fore topmast stay, jib stay & fore

topgallant stay.

Fore Topmast Stay -The fore topmast stay

(8) is a double line passing port and star-

board through the bees on the side of the

bowsprit and are seized with lanyards to eye-

bolts at the bow. Notice that the hole in the

port bee is a little aft of the starboard bee

hole. Actually, the starboard stay should be

called a spring stay.

Jib Stay - The jib stay (6) is an interesting

stay as it can be moved in or out along the

jibboom with the aid of an outhaul tackle (6

) and an inhaul (48 ) which are attached to a

traveler ring. The ring is not included in the

kit. Fashion it from brass or steel wire. Make

sure you place the ring over the jibboom and

rig this stay before you rig the outermost fore

topgallant stay. The top of the jib stay passes

through a cheek sheave on the side of the

masthead and down to a tackle just above

the deck.

Fore Topgallant Stay - This stay (5) passes

through a hole (and sheave) at the end of the

jibboom, under the starboard cleat on the

dolphin striker, through a lead block on the

starboard side of the bowsprit, then through a

hole in the bow and belays to a pin on the

forward pin rail. This stay could also be set up

to an eyebolt in the bow with lanyards and

not through a hole in the bulwark.

Note: The detail on the rigging plan is con-

fusing. The fore topgallant stay and the

martingale stay appear to cross after passing

the dolphin striker. This is not likely so just

switch the lines with the topgallant going star-

board and martingale going port.

4. Completing the

Bowsprit Rigging

Now that the head stays are completed, you

can finish up the other bowsprit and jib-

boom rigging. Figure G-8 illustrates the

lines discussed.

Martingale Stay & Backropes - This is the

lowest stay on the jibboom. Seize the forward

end around the jibboom outer shoulder. The

stay (21) is lashed to the bottom of the dol-

phin striker. From that point there is a

backrope (22) port and

starboard seized to eye-

bolts at the hull. There is

another martingale stay,

the inner martingale (also

21), attached to the bot-

tom of the traveler ring

and feeds back via the

dolphin striker, through a

lead block on the port

side of the bowsprit to

belay inboard.

Note: Refer back to the

note under fore topgal-

lant stay regarding some

confusion with the

plan detail.

Manropes (23) - Install

an eyebolt port and star-

board on top of the

fairlead block at the bow.

Run the lines to the eye-

bolt stanchions atop the

bowsprit cap. Midway

there are support lines

hanging from the

forestay. A small netting

is shown on the plan

between the port and

starboard manropes. No

netting is provided in the

kit so you can omit it, or

use some netting material

from your local florist.

Jibboom Guys - Use

black line for the guys

and tan for the tackles

set to eyebolts on the

catheads. The outer guys

are secured to the end of

the jibboom and the

inner guys to the jib

traveler ring.

5. Mainmast Stays

Mainstay - This stay (16)

FIG. G-3 SETTING UP THE SHROUDS

FIG. G-4 OPTIONS FOR TYING RATLINES

MAKE A LITTLE LONGER

THAN REQUIRED. LET

LANYARDS PULL

SHROUDS TIGHT.

TEMPORARY

WIRE

JIG

SEIZE

KNOT

STAYS

SHROUDS

TIE LANYARD

& GLUE

LANYARD

SEQUENCE

CUT-OFF

AND GLUE

CLOVE

HITCH

VIEW IS

INBOARD

LOOKING

OUTBOARD

SHROUD

SEQUENCE

PORT

THREAD

WITH

NEEDLE

CLOVE HITCHES

ALL SHROUDS

WOOD SHEER

POLE LASHED

TO SHROUDS

EYE SPLICE

LASHED TO

SHROUD

(REAL SHIP)

FIG. G-5 TOPMAST FUTTOCK SHROUDS

FIG. G-6 FORESTAY

FORE TOP

MAIN TOP

SHROUD

WOOD

STAVE

COLLAR

AT MAST TOP

CLOSED HEART

OPEN HEART

SEIZE

LOWER

SHROUDS

FORESTAY

LANYARD

STOP CHOCK

ON BOWSPRIT

P/S

STROP

HOOK &

LINE

FUTTOCK

SHROUD

LOWER SHROUDS

LASH TO

LOWER SHROUDS

16

is a pair, passing on each

side of the foremast and

setting up port and star-

board with lanyards to the

eyebolts shown on the

deck plan just forward of

the foremast fife rail. The

stay eye would be fitted

with a metal thimble (Fig-

ure G-9). This

arrangement is a common

solution. However, on

some ships the stay could

have set up to bullseyes or

deadeyes at the deck.

There is usually many

solutions to rigging these

old ships.

Spring Stay & Main

Topmast Stay - The

spring stay (17) sets to

eyebolts on the fore and

main mast caps. The

main topmast stay (18) is

seized around the main

topmast and to an eye-

bolt on the foremast cap

next to the spring stay.

Main Topgallant Stay -

This stay is shown but

not numbered or identi-

fied on the rigging plan.

Above the main topmast

stay and shrouds, the top-

mast continues for

another 13 feet or so.

This extension could be

classified as a topgallant.

Therefore, the fore and

aft stay at the top will be

identified as main topgal-

lant stay. Secure the

forward end at the fore

topmast crosstrees.

6. Yard Lifts,

Footropes, Stirrups,

Slings, & Trusses

These lines are a part of

the standing rigging list but we will defer the

instruction to running rigging, Stage H.

These lines are best installed along with some

running

rigging while working with the yards. Just

don’t forget that these lines

are black.

Examine the model before moving to the next

stage. Is a mast or the bowsprit and jibboom

out of alignment? Now is the time to correct

these mistakes.

FIG. G-7 FORE TOPMAST, JIB,

& FORE TOPGALLANT STAYS

FIG. G-8 REMAINING RIGGING AT BOWSPRIT

FIG. G-9 MAIN STAY

AT TOP

JIB STAY

JIB INHAUL

TO PIN RAIL

OUTHAUL

TACKLE

TRAVELER

RING

FORE TOPGALLANT STAY

CHEEK

BLOCK

TACKLE AT DECK

BETWEEN

FIFE RAIL - BELAY

TO FIFE RAIL

FORE TOPMAST STAY

(SPRING STAY)

PORT

FORE TOPMAST

STAY STARBOARD

BELAYTO

PIN RAIL

EYEBOLT &

LANYARD OPTION - SET TO EYEBOLT

WITH LANYARD

LEAD BLOCK

PORT SIDE

JIBBOOM BUYS

P/S

NET

P

S

MARTINGALE

STAYS

MARTINGALE

BACK STAYS

MARTINGALE

BACK STAYS

EYESPLICE

WITH THIMBLE

LANYARDS

EYEBOLTS

IN DECK

EYEBOLT

& LANYARDS

TO PIN

RAIL

MANROPE P/S

MANROPE

SUPPORT

LINE P/S

CATHEAD

JIB

TRAVELER

RING

17

Before starting on the running rigging, have all

your blocks stropped and/or seized to a line as

much as possible. Some running lines may

pass through a sheave hole, they require a

block. If so try starting at the block and rig-

ging backward. Of course, if in such a

situation a block is required on both sides of

the sheave, you are stuck with having to seize

at least one of the blocks on the model.

1. Jib Rigging

The only head sail lines shown on the plan are

for a jib. There should have been more head

sails such as a fore staysail and a jib topsail. If

you desire to add any additional sail lines to

your model, consult the Baltimore Clipper

book in the Bibliography. It would be advis-

able and add to the model if you at least add

halliards and downhaul at the fore topgallant

stay. Rig it like the jib halliards.

The jib halliard (47) is seized to the topmast

cap, goes down through a single block, back

up through a cheek sheave on side of the mast-

head, and down to its belaying pin on deck.

With no sail, the lower block is brought down

and placed just above the bowsprit and

hooked to the jib sheets (49). But wait, the

lines are floating in thin air. That’s because a

line is missing from the plan. There should be

a downhaul for the jib sail. To correct this

omission, add a single block lashed to the trav-

eler ring. The downhaul will be hooked along

with the sheets to the lower halliard block. The

downhaul then goes thru the block on the

traveler ring and belays on the pin rail at the

bow. The jib sheets could be omitted, but if

fitted the standing end is secured to an eyebolt

on the port and starboard cap rail, and the line

belayed to the pin rail on the bulwarks. Figure

H-1 illustrates the entire set-up.

2. Lower Yards

Jackstays - The jackstays were already installed

when you detailed the yards in Stage E so no

further work is required.

Footropes (10) & Stirrups (11) - Remember

these are black standing rigging lines. Beeswax

the footropes heavily so you can droop them

into a natural hanging curve and they will stay

in place. Note the stirrups and inboard end of

the footrope goes on the aft side of the yard

(Figure H-2).

Braces - For now, just add the brace blocks

at the ends of the yard (also Figure H-2).

The main yard blocks face forward and fore

yard blocks face aft. The brace rigging will be

discussed later.

Clew Garnets (27), Sheets (26), & Tacks

(25) - These are all sail lines hooked together

when the sails are removed. The clew garnets

are the only lines actually attached to the yard.

You could hook up the sheets and tacks after

the yard is installed on the model, or add them

now. Both the sheets and tacks go to the hull

thru sheaves in the bulwark and belay to cavils

on the bulwark stanchions with one exception.

The forward tacks go to the end of long poles

called boomkins protruding from the hull

(Figure H-3).

Topsail Sheet Blocks - Refer to the topsail

sheet discussion in the next paragraph.

Slings - The lower yards have no halliard and

tye, but a fixed sling (24), since the yards are

not hoisted like other yards. The sling can be

attached to the yard now, but cannot be fully

completed until the yard is in place since the

sling goes around the masthead (Figure H-4).

Truss - The truss (not numbered) holds the

yard against the mast. The line is pulled up

tight by the port and starboard ends which are

attached to a tackle at the deck (also Figure

H-4). On some ships the truss is flipped and

the tightening tackle placed at the top above

the yard instead of at the deck.

Lifts - The lifts (15) for this particular ship

reconstruction appear to be fixed standing rig-

ging at the caps. However, on most ships of the

period a more common arrangement would be

to have the lifts pass through blocks at the cap

and down to a tackle on deck. See Figure H-5

for both the fixed lifts and running option.

STAGE H: RUNNING RIGGING

FIG. H-1 JIB HALLIARD, DOWNHAUL, & SHEETS

FIG. H-2 YARD FOOTROPES & STIRRUPS, BRACE BLOCKS

CHEEK

BLOCK

JIBBOOM

BELAY

TO FORWARD

PIN RAIL

JIB SHEETS

EYEBOLT

IN CAP RAIL

BRACE

BLOCK

FORWARD

JACKSTAY

STIRRUP

FOOTROPE

CL

BELAY TO PIN RAIL

ON STARBOARD BULWARK

BELAY TO PIN RAIL

ON BULWARK

HOOK TOGETHER

JIB DOWNHAUL

JIBSTAY TRAVELER RING

JIB HALLIARD

SET FIXED END TO EYEBOLT

OR WRAP AROUND THE CAP

P

S

18

3. Topsail Yards

The jackstays, footropes & stirrups, lifts and

brace blocks are essentially the same as for the

lower yards.

Clew Lines and Sheets - The clew lines (29)

are just like the lower yard clew garnets, just a

different name. There are no tacks. The sheets

(28) hook to the clewline block, then go

through a sheave (a hole will do) at the ends of

the lower yards, through the block on the

lower yard inboard of the clew garnet block

and down to the belaying pins (Figure H-6).

Parrels - The topsail yards move up and

down. To hold the yard against the mast a par-

rel is used. The parrel is a beaded fixture so the

yards will move freely along the mast. Howev-

er, because of the small scale of this model, a

simple line without the beads will be adequate

(Figure H-7).

Tye and Halliards - The halliard ( for lifting

the topsail yards) is made up of a tye (37)

attached to the yard, a runner (38), and finally

a fall (also 38) which is the tackle at the deck.

The tye passes through a sheave in the mast.

Just drill a hole if you have not already done so

while making the masts.

For both fore and main rigs, the runner seizes

to an eyebolt in the channels. The lower fall

block also seizes to an eyebolt in the channels

but on the opposite side of the ship. One dif-

ference between fore & main, the rig is flipped

so the foremast fall is on the starboard side and

main mast on the port side. Figure H-8 illus-

trates the rig.

4. Fore Topgallant Yard

Everything is basically the same as the topsail

yards except for the halliard. The runner is

eliminated so you have only the tye (39) and

fall (40). The lower fall block is hooked at the

fore top, or at the channel but the line still

goes to the deck for belaying.

5. Rigging the Yard Braces

You should have the blocks on the yards

already. Now you need lead blocks at the

masts. Figure H-9 shows where these blocks

are located. All brace lines belay at deck level.

Note that the sketch shows the main topsail

yard lifts set to eyebolts on the fore lower mast

cap. An option would be to fix the blocks and

fixed ends to a rope collar around the mast

head just under the cap.

6. Fore & Main Gaffs

& Main Boom

The foresail on the fore gaff of the lower fore-

mast is loose footed. The gaff is fitted with

vangs (port & starboard) that extend from the

peak of the gaff to the outboard deck to steady

the gaff when the sail is furled. Peak and throat

halliards raise and lower the gaff. For our

model, without sails, the sheet for the foresail

would have been removed with the sail. The

remaining peak and throat halliards and the

vangs are identical to the mainsail.

Unlike the foresail, the mainsail has a boom

and a boom topping lift (44). Normally, when

the sail is furled or removed, the gaff is lowered

to lay on top of the boom. However, for the

model the gaff looks better in the up position

and the vangs help fill in the open space. The

rigging plan shows it this way.

Gaff Throat and Peak Halliards - Rig the

throat (42) and peak (4) halliard lower blocks

and peak halliard seizing on the gaff before

installing the gaff. The upper blocks are

secured below the top and mast cap respective-

ly. The hauling end of the peak halliard should

go down on the starboard side of the boom

and the throat halliard on the port side. The

belaying plan is confusing because it indicates

what appears to be eyebolts in the deck

between the main mast fife rails. In this case,

there would be a tackle in the halliards hooked

to these eyebolts and the fall lines belayed to

the fife rail. The fore fife rail has no indication

at all where the halliards are belayed. To sim-

plify the rigging, it is suggested that no tackles

be installed and the halliards simply be belayed

to pins in the fife rail. See Figure H-10 for the

halliard arrangement.

Boom Topping Lifts, Gaff Vangs, & Boom

Sheet - Figure H-11 illustrates these running

lines. The topping lifts (44) are a pair of lines

port and starboard. Quite a hefty rig but the

mainsail would be quite heavy when the sail

is furled.

FIG. H-3 LOWER YARD CLEW GARNETS, SHEETS & TACKS

FIG. H-4 LOWER YARD SLING & STRUSS

CLEW GARNET P/S

HOOK TOGETHER

TACK P/S

SHEET P/S

BELAYTO

CAVIL

EYEBOLT

HOLE (SHEAVE)

TACK P/S

BOOMKIN

BULWARK

(AT FORE YARD)

BULWARK

(AT MAIN YARD)

BULWARK

(AT MAIN YARD)

SLING

TRUSS

CLEATS ON

FORWARD SIDE OF YARD

EYEBOLT AT

DECK P/S

BELAYTO

PIN RAIL

AT BOW

CL

19

The vangs (43) are fitted port and starboard.

The plan does not clearly show where the

fixed end of the fall is located. Seize it to an

eyebolt in the deck close to the bulwark or on

top of the cap rail directly in line with the line

on the plan.

The main boom sheet (45) lower block is fit-

ted with a ring around the traveler rod on the

transom. The running end can be belayed port

or starboard to the cavils on the bulwark stan-

chions. The lead block on the deck can be

considered optional.

7. Anchor Tackle

Figure H-12 shows the anchors, port and star-

board, rigging and stowage. Coil the anchor

cables on the deck.

8. Final Touches

After all the rigging is in place, re-check every

line, and make sure all the seizings are sound.

If necessary, add another touch of CA glue to

seizings. Check to see if there are any shiny

places on the rigging. If necessary, tough-up

standing rigging with black paint, or black liq-

uid shoe polish. For running rigging, use a tan

stain, or brown liquid shoe polish.

Check to see if any of the painted wooden

parts were marred or scratched during the rig-

ging process and touch-up as necessary.

Congratulations—you’ve done it! We look for-

ward to helping you with your next ship

modeling project.

FIG. H-5 YARD LIFTS

FIG. H-6 TOPSAIL YARD CLEWLINES & SHEETS

FIG. H-7

YARD PARRELS

TACKLE

AT DECK

FIXED

FIXED

RUNNING

RUNNING

OPTION 1

OPTION

LOWER YARDS

& FORE TOPSAIL

TOPSAIL

YARD

LOWER

YARD

REAL SHIP

MODEL OPTION

MAIN TOPSAIL

& FORE TOPGALLANT

OPTION 1

NO BLOCKS AT CAP

TACKLE

AT DECK

BELAY AT

BULWARK

PIN RAIL

SHEET LEAD BLOCK

BELAYAT FIFE RAIL

YARD

COULD ALSO

ELIMINATE

THE HAULING

END

MAST

BELAY TO

DECK B ITTS

BEADS (10 PER YARD)

RIBS (6 PER YARD)

CLEWLINE

HOOK TOGETHER

SHEET

Below and on the following pages

are photos of the Dapper Tom

rigging on our prototype model.

20

FIG. H-8 TOPSAIL, YARD TYE & HALLIARD

FIG. H-9 YARD BRACES

HOLE IN MAST

TYE

RUNNER

EYEBOLT IN

CHANNEL

TACKLE PORT

AT MAINMAST

& STARBOARD

ATFOREMAST

CHANNEL

FORE TOPGALLANT

YARD BRACE

LASH LINES &

BLOCKS TO

LOWER SHROUDS

FORE TOPSAIL

YARD BRACE

OPTION-COLLAR

AROUND MAST

MAIN TOPSAIL

YARD BRACE

MAIN LOWER

YARD BRACE

FORE LOWER

YARD BRACE

ALL BRACES PORTS & STARBOARD

MAIN TOPMAST

MAIN TOP FORE TOP

BELAYTO

PIN RAIL

HALLLIARD

21

FIG. H-10 GAFF THROAT & PEAK HALLIARDS

FIG. H-11 GAFF VANGS, BOOM TOPIPNG LIFTS & SHEET

FIG. H-12 ANCHOR TACKLE

PEAK HALLIARD

COLLAR

AROUND

TRESTLE

TREE

TO STARBOARD SIDE

OF MAST TO PIN

IN FIFE RAIL

TO PORT SIDE

OF MAST TO PIN

IN FIFE RAIL

BELAY TO PINS

ON BULWARK

PIN RAILS

COLLAR

AROUND

MAST

D

D

S

STHROAT

HALLIARD

VANGS

P/S

RING

CAVIL

TOPPING LIFT

P/S

BELAYTO

BULWARK

PIN RAIL

EYEBOLT IN DECK

OR IN RAIL

LASH TO

BULWARK

CLEAT

INBOARD

BELAY TO PIN

RAIL OR A

CLEAT ON

THE CATHEAD

LEAD BLOCK

P/S

(OPTIONAL)

TRAVELER ROD

ON TRANSOM

BOOM SHEET

1. The Baltimore Clipper

by Howard I. Chapelle. Marine Research Society 1930. Reprinted by Bonanza Books, Crown Publishing.

This is a complete history of the Baltimore Clipper type. It contains many plans of contemporary schooners.

2. The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchor

by Darcy Lever. 1819 (reprinted)

Block and spar details, and typical rigging techniques of the period.

3. Steel’s Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging

by David Steel. 1794 (reprinted)

Details of masts and spars, block, rigging practices, and rigging sizes.

5. The Art of Rigging

by George Biddlecombe. 1848 (reprinted)

There is essentially an update of David Steel’s earlier work.

6. The Neophyte Shipmodeller’s Jackstay

by George F. Campbell. Model Shipways, 1962.

Excellent visuals and background information on building models from kits.

Good detail on hulls and rigging. Great for beginners.

7. How to Built First-Rate Ship Models From Kits

by Ben Lankford. Model Expo 2002.

Comprehensive reference covers construction methods for solid hull,

plank-on-bulkhead, and plank-on-frame kits. The book is profusely

illustrated and includes glossary of nautical terms.

Note: Many books are available through Model Expo at www.modelexpo-online.com.

Please check current catalog or website for availability.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

22

23

MODELER'S LOG

Date Time Notes

MODEL SHIPWAYS

Sold & distributed by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc.

3850 N. 29th Terrace, Hollywood, FL 33020

Toll-Free 800-222-3876 Monday - Friday 9-6 ET • Fax 800-742-7171

SAVE TIME & MONEY...ORDER DIRECTLY FROM OUR WEBSITE!

www.modelexpo-online.com

Other Fine Kits from

Model Shipways

WILLIE L. BENNETT

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2032

PHANTOM

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2027

EMMA C. BERRY

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2150

NIAGARA

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2240

FLYING FISH

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2018

CHARLES MORGAN

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2140

USS CONSTITUTION

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2040

PRINCE DE NEUFCHATEL

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2110

PRIDE OF BALTIMORE II

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2120

RATTLESNAKE

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2028

BLUENOSE

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2130

BENJAMIN LATHAM

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2109

SULTANA

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2016

OUR GUARANTEE

If less than delighted, return your purchase within 30 days in original condition.

BEDFORD WHALEBOAT

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2645