Orion Skyquest Xt10 Classic Users Manual

2015-02-05

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instruction Manual

Orion SkyQuest
XT6 Classic, XT8 Classic
& XT10 Classic
®

Dobsonian Reflecting Telescopes

Customer Support (800)676-1343
E-mail: support@telescope.com
Corporate Offices (831) 763-7000

Providing Exceptional Consumer Optical Products Since 1975

89 Hangar Way, Watsonville, CA 95076

OrionTelescopes.com
IN 165 Rev. D 05/08

Secondary mirror with
4-vane spider (not shown)
EZ Finder II
Eyepiece

Focus knob

Optical tube

Altitude side bearing

CorrecTension Friction
Optimization System

Right side panel
Front brace

Pull loop

Handle
Eyepiece Rack
(optional)

Left side panel

Top baseplate
Ground baseplate

Figure 1. The SkyQuest XT Dobsonian (XT6 pictured)

Welcome to an exciting new world of adventure! Your SkyQuest Dobsonian is a high-quality optical instrument designed to
bring you dazzling views of the outer reaches of our universe. Easy enough for kids to use, and portable enough for anyone to carry, the SkyQuest will provide fun and entertainment for the entire family. Whether you are brand-new to amateur
astronomy or a seasoned stargazer, get ready for many evenings of enjoyment and fascination. Before venturing into
the night with your new telescope, we recommend that you read through this instruction manual. Not only does it provide
accurate directions for assembly and use, but it also serves as a guide for your first explorations in the sky.

Table of Contents
1. Unpacking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Parts List

2. Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Box #1: Optical Tube Assembly and Accessories
Qty. Description

3. Using Your Telescope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Optical tube assembly

4. Collimation (Aligning the Mirrors) . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Dust cover

25mm Sirius Plössl eyepiece, 1.25" barrel diameter

EZ Finder II (with bracket)

Collimation cap

Spring coils

1. Unpacking

Pull loops

Nylon spacers (black)

The telescope will arrive in two boxes, one containing the
optical tube assembly and accessories, the other containing
the unassembled Dobsonian base. Be careful unpacking the
boxes. We recommend keeping the original shipping containers. In the event that the telescope needs to be shipped to
another location, or returned to Orion for warranty repair, having the proper shipping containers will help ensure that your
telescope will survive the journey intact.

1/4" washers (black)

Phillips-head screws (black, length 1-3/4")

Screws with round knob attached

Qty.

Description

Make sure all the parts in the Parts List below are present. Be
sure to check boxes carefully, as some parts are small. If anything appears to be missing or broken, immediately call Orion
Customer Support (800-676-1343) for assistance.

Left panel

Right panel

Front brace

Top baseplate

Ground baseplate

Base assembly screws (length 2")

Hex key (size 4mm)

Plastic feet

Feet attachment wood screws (length 1")

Self-adhesive rubber bumper

Large hex-head bolt (length 3")

3/8" washers

3/8" lock nut

Nylon spacer (white)

T-nut

Handle

Socket-head cap screws, 5/16" (black)

5/16" washers (black)

5/16" nuts (black)

Hex key (6mm)

5. Astronomical Observing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
6. Care and Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
7. Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Warning: Never look directly at the Sun

through your telescope or its finder scope—
even for an instant—without a professionally
made solar filter that completely covers the front
of the instrument, or permanent eye damage
could result. Young children should use this
telescope only with adult supervision.

Box #2: Dobsonian Base

C
C

Figure 3. Set the optical
tube on the “cradle” of the
base so that the altitude side
bearings on the tube rest on
the white plastic “pads,” and
the finder is facing away from
the front brace (Part B).

H
E

A
F

3. Attach the two sides (C) with the front brace attached to
the top baseplate (D) with the remaining six base assembly
screws in the predrilled holes. Tighten all six screws.

4. Tighten the six side panel screws installed earlier.

Figure 2. Exploded view of the SkyQuest XT Dobsonian base.

2. Assembly
Now that you have unpacked the boxes and familiarized yourself with all the parts in front of you, it’s time to begin assembly.
The optics of the telescope are already installed in the tube,
so most of the required assembly concerns the Dobsonian
base.
Assembly of the Dobsonian Base
Refer to Figure 2 during base assembly. The base need only
be assembled once, unless you disassemble it for long-term
storage. The assembly process takes about 30 minutes and
requires a Phillips screwdriver, an adjustable crescent wrench,
and the provided hex keys.
Note: When tightening the base assembly screws, tighten them until firm, but be careful not to strip the holes
by over-tightening. If you use an electric screwdriver, do
the final tightening with a standard screwdriver to avoid
stripping.
1. Screw the plastic feet into the underside of the ground
baseplate (A) using the self-tapping wood screws provided, with a Phillips screwdriver. Insert the screws through
the feet and thread them into the predrilled starter holes.
2. Loosely attach the front brace (B) to the two side panels
(C) with six of the base assembly screws in the predrilled
holes. Use the 4mm hex key to tighten the screws. The side
panels should be oriented so the SkyQuest label is facing
outward. Do not completely tighten the screws yet.
4

5. Insert the white nylon bushing (E) into the hole in the center of the top baseplate (D). Tap the nylon bushing in so it
goes all the way into the top baseplate. The nylon bushing
should be flush with the top surface of the top baseplate.
6. Insert the T-nut (K) into the center hole of the ground baseplate (A) so the nut’s flanged top is on the same side of the
baseplate as the Teflon pads. Thread the large hex-head
bolt (G) with a 3/8" washer (F) attached up through the
ground baseplate and through the T-nut until it is tight. Now
position the top baseplate (D) (with side panels attached)
over the ground baseplate and lower it so the bolt goes
through the nylon spacer in the center hole of the top
baseplate. Now thread the remaining 3/8" washer (H) and
lock nut (I) onto the bolts shaft. You might need to hold the
bolts head in place with another crescent wrench or pliers.
Tighten the lock nut with the wrench just enough to allow
a slight separation of the top and bottom baseplates when
the mount is lifted. The purpose of the lock nut is merely to
keep the two baseplates from coming apart when moving
the telescope.
Note: Overtightening the lock nut (I) will make the mount
difficult to rotate in the azimuthal (horizontal) direction.
7. Attach the handle (J) to the front brace (B) with the two
black socket-head screws. Insert the screws through the
handle and into the predrilled holes. Place the 5/16" washers and 5/16" nuts on the protruding ends of the screws.
Tighten the nuts with a crescent wrench while holding the
bolts stationary with the 6mm hex key.
8. Lift the optical tube and set the altitude bearings on either
side of the tube in the “cradle” of the base (Figure 3). The
unique flange design of the altitude bearing allows for automatic left-to-right centering of the optical tube in the cradle.

Figure 4. Position the tube on the mount pointed vertical. Place
the rubber bumper “stop” where the mirror cell contacts the front
base to cushion the impact.

Figure 5. Using the two supplied screws, install the optional
aluminum eyepiece rack in the predrilled holes about halfway down
the left side panel of the base. (XT6 eyepiece rack shown)

Once in the cradle, the tube should pivot freely up and
down with gentle hand pressure. Note that the tube will
not yet be properly balanced, since the eyepiece and EZ
Finder II are not in place, and the CorrecTension system
has not been installed.
9. The rubber bumper (L) provides a convenient “stop” for the
telescope’s altitude motion; it prevents the telescope mirror cell from being knocked against the hard surface of the
base’s front brace. Remove the backing from the rubber
bumper and position the bumper so it is positioned in the
spot where the optical tube (mirror cell) contacts the front
base as shown in Figure 4a and 4b. Press firmly so the
adhesive holds the bumper securely in place.
Installing the Optional Eyepiece Rack
The aluminum eyepiece rack is an optional accessory for
SkyQuest Dobsonians. On the XT6 it holds three 1.25" eyepieces in a convenient place on the base; on the XT8 and
XT10 it holds three 1.25" eyepieces and one 2" eyepiece.
These eyepieces will be within easy reach while you’re
observing. About halfway down the left side panel of the base
you will notice two predrilled starter holes, about 6" apart.
Take the black wood screws and thread them into the starter
holes with a Phillips screwdriver. Then you can “keyhole” the
eyepiece rack onto the wood screws and continue tightening
the screws (Figure 5). If you want to be able to remove the
rack, do not tighten the screws too tightly. Be certain that the
screws are loose enough that you can lift the rack and remove
it from the screws through the larger part of the keyhole. If
you want to have the rack permanently attached, thread the
screws tightly.
Installing the EZ Finder II
Using the included dovetail mounting bracket, the EZ Finder
II will slip neatly into the dovetail base preinstalled on your
SkyQuest optical tube. To attach the dovetail mounting bracket
to the EZ Finder II, loosen the two thumbscrews on the bottom
rail of the EZ Finder II. Slide the EZ Finder II onto the bracket
and tighten the two thumbscrews (See Figure 6). Then simply

Power
knob

Altitude
adjustment
knob
Thumbscrews

Azimuth
adjustment
knob
Battery
casing
Dovetail
mounting
bracket

Figure 6. The EZ Finder II
slide the dovetail mounting bracket into the telescope’s dovetail mounting base and tighten the thumbscrew on the base to
secure the mounting bracket.
Operation
The EZ Finder II works by projecting a tiny red dot (it’s not a
laser beam) onto a lens mounted in the front of the unit. When
you look through the EZ Finder II, the red dot will appear to
float in space, helping you locate even the faintest of deep
space objects. The red dot is produced by a light-emitting
diode (LED) near the rear of the sight. A 3-volt lithium battery
provides the power for the diode.
Turn the power knob (see Figure 6) clockwise until you hear
the “click” indicating that power has been turned on. Look
through the back of the reflex sight with both eyes open to
see the red dot. Position your eye at a comfortable distance
from the back of the sight. In daylight you may need to cover
the front of the sight with your hand to be able to see the
dot, which is purposefully quite dim. The intensity of the dot
is adjusted by turning the power knob. For best results when
stargazing, use the dimmest possible setting that allows you
to see the dot without difficulty. Typically a dimmer setting is

Altitude side bearing
Screw with
round knob

Black nylon
spacers

Spring
Phillips-head
screw (black)
Pull loop

1/4" washer
(black)

a.
Figure 7. Close-up view of the CorrecTension system, which pulls
the tube assembly down onto the altitude bearing pads.
used under dark skies and a bright setting is used under lightpolluted skies or d
aylight.
At the end of your observing session, be sure to turn the power
knob counterclockwise until it clicks off. When the white dots
on the EZ Finder II’s body and power knob are lined up, the EZ
Finder II is turned off.
Installing the CorrecTension (XT) Friction
Optimization System
Perhaps the most exciting feature of the SkyQuest Dobsonians
is the CorrecTension Friction Optimization system. Because of
their light weight, 10" and smaller Dobsonians have always
been plagued by insufficient friction on the altitude bearing
surfaces. As a result, such telescopes move up and down
much too freely. This causes problems when the observer tries
to accurately center and track an object for viewing, especially
at higher powers. Also, the telescope becomes very sensitive
to balance, requiring additional equipment such as counterweight systems or adjustable side bearings to compensate.
SkyQuest Dobsonians employ a simple yet effective remedy
for the friction problem that obviates the need for such cumbersome countermeasures. CorrecTension Friction Optimization
utilizes a spring coil to “pull” the tube assembly down onto the
altitude bearing pads, thereby increasing the friction by just
the right amount. With CorrecTension, you can change eyepieces, or add a barlow lens or solar filter without having to
tediously adjust the telescope’s balance as you would with
other Dobsonians. The altitude friction will roughly equal the
azimuth friction, ensuring optimal performance.
To install the CorrecTension assembly, follow these steps while
referring to Figure 7:
1. Put one of the black nylon spacers on a black Phillips-head
screw. The spacer should be oriented so the narrow end
seats against the head of the screw. Slip one of the black
1/4" washers over the end of the screw. Now, thread the
screw into the hole in the base side panel just below the
cradle. The screw will thread into the preinstalled insert in

b.
Figure 8. (a) To attach the spring to the base, grip the pull loop
with your index finger and pull down on the spring. (b) While pulling
down, slip the end ring of the spring over the bolt head and onto the
narrow part of the nylon spacer, then release the pull loop.
the hole. Use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten the screw.
Repeat this procedure on the opposite side panel.
2. Next, insert one of the screws with a round plastic knob
attached through the end ring of one of the springs. Slip
a black nylon spacer onto the screw. Orient the spacer so
the narrow end is closest to the knob. Thread the entire
assembly into the hole in the center of the telescope’s
altitude side bearing until tight. The end ring of the spring
should seat onto the narrow end of the spacer. Repeat this
procedure for the other altitude side bearing.
3 Attach a pull loop to the free end of each spring. Slide the loop
through the opening in the ring on the end of the spring.
4. Now, pull each spring down using the pull loop, and position the spring’s end ring over the head of the Phillips
screw (installed in Step 1) and onto the narrow part of the
nylon spacer, as shown in Figure 8b. You needn’t attach
both springs simultaneously; one at a time is fine.

2" eyepiece adapter
Focus knobs

1.25" eyepiece
adapter
Focus lock
thumbscrew

Altitude
Tension adjustment screw

Figure 10. The 2" Crayford focuser (XT8 and XT10)

Azimuth
Figure 9. The SkyQuest has two axes of motion: altitude (up/
down) and azimuth (left/right).
The CorrecTension system is now installed and engaged.
If you wish to remove the telescope from the base, you will
first need to disconnect the springs from the “posts” on the
Dobsonian base. The springs will remain captive on the altitude side bearings, so they will not get lost.
Inserting an Eyepiece
The final step in the assembly process is to insert an eyepiece
into the telescope’s focuser. Take the cover cap off the end of
the focuser drawtube.
For the XT6: Loosen the two thumbscrews on the eyepiece
holder and insert the eyepiece. Then secure it in place with the
thumbscrews.
For the XT8 and XT10: There are three thumbscrews on
the focuser, one holds the eyepiece, and two hold the 1.25"
adapter. To insert the eyepiece, loosen the thumbscrew that is
on the 1.25" adapter itself (it will be highest up on the focuser).
Insert the eyepiece into the adapter and secure it by tightening the thumbscrew.
The assembly of your SkyQuest Dobsonian is now complete.
It should appear as in Figure 1. The dust cover on the front of
the telescope should always remain in place when the telescope is not in use. It is also a good idea to store eyepieces in
an eyepiece case and to replace the cover cap on the focuser
when the telescope is idle.

3. Using Your Telescope
It is best to get a feel for the basic functions of the SkyQuest
Dobsonian during the day, before observing astronomical
objects at night. This way you will not have to fumble around

trying to orient yourself in the dark! Find a spot outdoors
where you have plenty of room to move around the telescope,
and where you have a clear view of some object or vista that is
at least 1/4-mile away. It is not critical that the base be exactly
level, but it should be placed on somewhat flat ground or pavement to ensure smooth movement of the telescope.

Remember, never point the telescope at or near the
Sun without using a proper solar filter over the front
aperture!
Altitude and Azimuth
The Dobsonian base of the SkyQuest permits motion of the
telescope along two axes: altitude (up/down) and azimuth
(left/right) (Figure 9). This is very convenient, since up/down
and left/right are the most “natural” ways that people aim. As a
result, pointing the telescope is exceptionally easy.
Simply take hold of the end of the tube and move it left or
right so the base rotates about its central azimuth bolt, and
move it up or down so the altitude side bearings rotate in the
base’s cradle. Both motions can be made simultaneously and
in a continuous manner for easy aiming. Move the telescope
gently—let it glide. In this way you can point the telescope to
any position in the night sky, from horizon to horizon.
Focusing the Telescope
Insert the 25mm eyepiece into the focuser and secure with the
thumbscrew(s). Move the telescope so the front (open) end is
pointing in the general direction of an object at least 1/4-mile
away. Now, with your fingers, slowly rotate one of the focusing
knobs until the object comes into sharp focus. Go a little bit
beyond sharp focus until the image just starts to blur again,
then reverse the rotation of the knob, just to make sure you’ve
hit the exact focus point.
If you have trouble focusing, rotate the focusing knob so the
drawtube is in as far as it will go. Now look through the eyepiece while slowly rotating the focusing knob in the opposite
direction. You should soon see the point at which focus is
reached.
The 2" Crayford focuser of the XT8 and XT10 models features
a thumb screw on the bottom of the focuser body (Figure 10)

Once aligned, EZ Finder II will usually hold its alignment even
after being removed and remounted. Otherwise, only minimal
realignment will be n
eeded.

Naked-eye view

View through and telescope

Figure 11. The view through a reflector telescope is upside
down.

which will lock the focuser drawtube in place once the telescope is properly focused.
If you find the drawtube tension when focusing is either too
tight (focus knob is difficult to turn) or too loose (image shifts
when focusing or drawtube moves inward by itself), the tension can be adjusted for optimal performance. On the XT8 &
XT10, the focusing tension adjustment set screw is a 3mm
socket head set screw located below the focus lock thumb
screw (Figure 10). A 3mm hex key is required for adjustment
of focus tension. Due to the rack-and-pinion focuser design on
the XT6, tension adjustment should not normally be needed
as it has been pre-adjusted at the factory.
Note: The image in the main telescope will appear upsidedown (rotated 180°). This is normal for reflector telescopes.
(see Figure 11)
Aligning the EZ Finder II
When the EZ Finder II is properly aligned with the telescope,
an object that is centered on the EZ Finder II’s red dot should
also appear in the center of the field of view of the telescope’s
eyepiece. Alignment of the EZ Finder II is easiest during daylight, before observing at night. Aim the telescope at a distant
object such as a telephone pole or roof chimney and center it
in the telescope’s eyepiece. The object should be at least 1/4
mile away. Now, with the EZ Finder II turned on, look though
the EZ Finder II. The object should appear in the field of view.
Without moving the main telescope, use the EZ Finder II’s azimuth (left/right) and altitude (up/down) adjustment knobs (see
Figure 6) to position the red dot on the object in the eyepiece.
When the red dot is centered on the distant object, check to
make sure that the object is still centered in the telescope’s
field of view. If not, recenter it and adjust the EZ Finder II’s
alignment again. When the object is centered in the eyepiece
and on the EZ Finder’s red dot, the EZ Finder II is properly
aligned with the telescope.

Replacing the Battery
Should the battery ever die, replacement 3-volt lithium batteries are available from many retail outlets. Remove the old
battery by inserting a small flat-head screwdriver into the slot
on the battery casing (Figure 6) and gently prying open the
case. Then carefully pull back on the retaining clip and remove
the old battery. Do not overbend the retaining clip. Then slide
the new battery under the battery lead with the positive (+)
end facing down and replace the battery casing.
Aiming/Pointing the Telescope
Now that the EZ Finder II is aligned, the telescope can be
quickly and accurately pointed at anything you wish to
observe. The EZ Finder II has a much wider field of view than
the telescope’s eyepiece, and therefore it is much easier to
first center an object in the EZ Finder II. Then, if the EZ Finder
II is accurately aligned, the object will also be centered in the
telescope’s field of view.
Start by once again moving the telescope until it is pointed
in the general direction of the object you want to see. Some
observers find it convenient to sight along the tube to do this.
Now, look in the EZ Finder II. If your general aim is accurate,
the object should appear somewhere in the EZ Finder II. Make
small adjustments to the telescope’s position until the object
is centered on the red dot of the EZ Finder. Now, look in the
telescope’s eyepiece and enjoy the view!
Magnification
Magnification of the telescope can be changed by using
additional eyepieces (optional). To switch eyepieces, simply
loosen the thumbscrew(s) on the focuser drawtube and lift the
eyepiece out of the focuser. Insert your new eyepiece in the
focuser and tighten the thumbscrews. If you are careful not to
bump the telescope your object should remain in the field of
view. With higher powers notice that the object veing viewed is
now larger, but somewhat dimmer.
The SkyQuest is designed to accept any eyepiece with a barrel diameter of 1.25". The XT8 and XT10 can also accept 2"
eyepieces. Magnification, or power, is determined by the focal
length of the telescope and the focal length of the eyepiece.
Therefore, by using eyepieces of different focal lengths, the
resultant magnification can be varied.
Magnification is calculated as follows:
Magnification=

Telescope Focal Length (mm)
Eyepiece Focal Length (mm)

The 6", 8" and 10" SkyQuest Dobsonians all have a focal length
of 1200mm. So, the magnification with the supplied 25mm eyepiece is:
1200mm
= 48x
25mm
The maximum attainable magnification for a telescope is directly
related to how much light its optics can collect. A telescope with

more light-collecting area, or aperture, can yield higher magnifications than a smaller aperture telescope. The maximum
practical magnification for any telescope, regardless of optical
design, is about 60x per inch of aperture. This translates to about
360x for the SkyQuest XT6 and 480x for the XT8.
Keep in mind that as magnification is increased, the brightness
of the object being viewed will decrease; this is an inherent
principle of the physics of optics and cannot be avoided. If
magnification is doubled, an image appears four times dimmer. If magnification is tripled, image brightness is reduced by
a factor of nine!
Note About High Magnifications:
Maximum magnifications are achieved only under the most
ideal viewing conditions at the best observing sites. Most of the
time, magnifications are limited to 200x or less, regardless of
aperture. This is because the Earth’s atmosphere distorts light
as it passes through. On nights of good “seeing,” the atmosphere will be still and will yield the least amount of distortion.
On nights of poor seeing, the atmosphere will be turbulent,
which means different densities of air are rapidly mixing. This
causes significant distortion of the incoming light, which prevents sharp views at high magnifications.
Tube Balance
Dobsonians are designed to balance with standard supplied
accessories, such as an eyepiece and EZ Finder II. But what
if you want to use a larger finder scope or a heavier eyepiece?
The telescope will no longer be properly balanced, and will not
hold its position properly. This makes the telescope difficult to
use, since it is critical that it hold its position (when not purposefully moved) to keep objects centered in the field of vision.
Traditional Dobsonian designs expect the user to compensate for heavier accessories by adding weight to the opposite
end of the telescope tube. Such counterweighting systems
can be expensive and unwieldy. The CorrecTension Friction
Optimization system of the SkyQuest Dobsonians, however,
solves the finicky balance problem. The spring coils pull the
tube down onto the base, thereby increasing the friction on the
altitude bearing pads. With CorrecTension, the added weight
of small front-end loads will not adversely affect the balance of
the telescope.

Figure 12. Picking up and carrying
the SkyQuest as a single unit (with
tube held captive on the base) requires
some caution. (a) First, position the tube
vertically. Then, grasp the handle on the
base with one hand while supporting the
tube with the other. (b) With knees bent,
slowly lift the base while supporting the
tube with one hand. This ensures that
the tube will not swing down and impact
the ground. (c) As you lift, the whole
assembly will tilt down, becoming nearly
parallel with the ground, at which time you
can let go of the tube with your supporting
hand. Make sure you are comfortable with
the weight of the whole assembly before
attempting to carry it!

If you install an array of heavier accessories onto your SkyQuest’s optical tube, you may need at
some point to counterbalance the telescope with a counterweight system.
Carrying the Telescope
Moving the SkyQuest is easy to do. Because the springs of the
CorrecTension system hold the optical tube captive on the base,
the entire telescope can be carried as one unit (6" and 8" models
only). This requires some caution, however. If the telescope is
lifted improperly, the front of the tube could swing down and hit
the ground.
First, point the optical tube straight up (vertical). Remove any
eyepieces from the telescope and optional eyepiece rack, and
place them in an eyepiece case. Grasp the handle on the front
of the base with one hand while supporting the telescope tube
vertically with the other (see Figure 12). Now, lift the telescope
from the handle. Once the telescope is in the horizontal position, you can carry the entire unit with one hand. The handle
position properly balances the load for easy carrying.
If you wish to carry the optical tube and base separately, simply disengage the CorrecTension springs by unhooking them
from the posts on the base, using the pull loops. The springs
remain captive on the telescope side bearings. Now the base
and tube are disengaged and can be transported separately.
Note: The SkyQuest may be too heavy for some users to
lift and carry as one unit. Do not strain yourself! If the load
seems too heavy, disengage the springs and carry the
base and tube separately.
When putting the SkyQuest into a vehicle, common sense prevails. It is especially important that the optical tube does not
knock around; this can cause the optics to become misaligned,
and could dent the tube. We recommend transporting and storing the tube assembly in a padded case for proper protection.

4. Collimation
Collimation is the process of adjusting the mirrors so they are
correctly aligned with one another. Your telescope’s optics
were aligned at the factory, and should not need much adjustment unless the telescope is handled roughly. Accurate mirror
9

drawtube
Reflection
of primary
mirror clip

Figure 13. Collimating the optics. (a) When the mirrors are properly aligned, the view down the focuser drawtube should look like this (b)

With the collimation cap in place, if the optics are out of alignment, the view might look something like this. (c) Here, the secondary mirror is
centered under the focuser, but it needs to be adjusted (tilted) so that the entire primary mirror is visible. (d) The secondary mirror is correctly
aligned, but the primary mirror still needs adjustment. When the primary mirror is correctly aligned, the “dot” will be centered, as in (e).

alignment is important to ensure the peak performance of your
telescope, so it should be checked regularly. Collimation is relatively easy to do and can be done in daylight.
To check collimation, remove the eyepiece and look down the
focuser drawtube. You should see the secondary mirror centered
in the drawtube, as well as the reflection of the primary mirror centered in the secondary mirror, and the reflection of the secondary
mirror (and your eye) centered in the reflection of the primary mirror, as in Figure 13a. If anything is off-center, as in Figure 13b,
proceed with the following collimation procedure.
The Collimation Cap and Mirror Center Mark
Your SkyQuest XT comes with a collimation cap. This is a simple cap that fits on the focuser drawtube like a dust cap, but has
a hole in the center and a silver bottom. This helps center your
eye so that collimation is easy to perform. Figures 13a through
13e assume you have the collimation cap in place.
In addition to providing the collimation cap, you’ll notice a tiny
ring (sticker) in the exact center of the primary mirror. This
“center mark” allows you to achieve a very precise collimation of the primary mirror; you don’t have to guess where the
center of the mirror is. You simply adjust the mirror position
(described below) until the reflection of the hole in the collimation cap is centered inside the ring. This center mark is also
required for best results with other collimating devices, such
as Orion’s LaserMate Laser Collimator, obviating the need to
remove the primary mirror and mark it yourself.
Note: The center ring sticker need not ever be removed
from the primary mirror. Because it lies directly in the
shadow of the secondary mirror, its presence in no way

adversely affects the optical performance of the telescope
or the image quality. That might seem counterintuitive, but
it’s true!
Aligning the Secondary Mirror
With the collimation cap in place, look through the hole in the
cap at the secondary (diagonal) mirror. Ignore the reflections
for the time being. The secondary mirror itself should be centered in the focuser drawtube, in the direction parallel to the
length of the telescope. If it isn’t, as in Figure 13b, it must be
adjusted. This adjustment will rarely, if ever, need to be done. It
helps to adjust the secondary mirror in a brightly lit room with
the telescope pointed toward a bright surface, such as white
paper or wall. Placing a piece of white paper in the telescope
tube opposite the focuser (i.e., on the other side of the secondary mirror) will also be helpful in collimating the secondary
mirror. Using a 2mm hex key, loosen the three small alignment
set screws in the center hub of the 4-vaned spider several
turns. Now hold the mirror holder stationary (be careful not
to touch the surface of the mirrors), while turning the center
screw with a Phillips head screwdriver (see Figure 14). Turning
the screw clockwise will move the secondary mirror toward
the front opening of the optical tube, while turning the screw
counter-clockwise will move the secondary mirror toward the
primary mirror.
Note: When making these adjustments, be careful not to
stress the spider vanes or they may bend.
When the secondary mirror is centered in the focuser drawtube, rotate the secondary mirror holder until the reflection of
the primary mirror is as centered in the secondary mirror as

Figure 14. To center the secondary mirror under the focuser,
hold the secondary mirror holder in place with one hand while
adjusting the center bolt with a Phillips screwdriver. Do not touch the
mirror’s surface!

Figure 16. The three small thumbscrews that lock the primary
mirror in place must first be loosened before any adjustments can be
made.

Figure 15. Adjust the tilt of the secondary mirror by loosening or

Figure 17. The tilt of the primary mirror is adjusted by turning

tightening the three alignment set screws with a 2mm hex key.

one or more of the three larger thumbscrews.

possible. It may not be perfectly centered, but that is OK. Now
tighten the three small alignment screws equally to secure the
secondary mirror in that position. If the entire primary mirror
reflection is not visible in the secondary mirror, as in Figure
13c, you will need to adjust the tilt of the secondary mirror.
This is done by alternately loosening one of the three alignment setscrews while tightening the other two, as depicted in
Figure 15. The goal is to center the primary mirror reflection
in the secondary mirror, as in Figure 13d. Don’t worry that the
reflection of the secondary mirror (the smallest circle, with the
collimation cap “dot” in the center) is off-center. You will fix that
in the next step.

thumbscrews. The other three smaller thumbscrews lock the
mirror’s position in place; these thumbscrews must be loosened before any collimation adjustments can be made to the
primary mirror.

Adjusting the Primary Mirror
The final adjustment is made to the primary mirror. It will need
adjustment if, as in Figure 13d, the secondary mirror is centered under the focuser and the reflection of the primary mirror
is centered in the secondary mirror, but the small reflection of
the secondary mirror (with the “dot” of the collimation cap) is
off-center.
The tilt of the primary mirror is adjusted with three springloaded collimation thumbscrews on the back end of the optical
tube (bottom of the primary mirror cell); these are the larger

To start, turn the smaller thumbscrews a few turns each
(Figure 14). Use a screwdriver in the slots, if necessary.
Now, try tightening or loosening one of the larger collimation thumbscrews with your fingers (Figure 17). Look into the
focuser and see if the secondary mirror reflection has moved
closer to the center of the primary. You can tell this easily with
the collimation cap and mirror center mark by simply watching
to see if the “dot” of the collimation cap is moving closer or
farther away from the ring on the center of the primary mirror. When you have the dot centered as much as possible in
the ring, your primary mirror is collimated. The view through
the collimation cap should resemble Figure 13e. Retighten the
locking thumbscrews.
A simple star test will tell you whether the optics are accurately
collimated.
Star-Testing the Telescope
When it is dark, point the telescope at a bright star and accurately center it in the eyepiece’s field of view. Slowly de-focus

Cooling the Telescope
All optical instruments need time to reach “thermal equilibrium”
to achieve maximum stability of the lenses and mirrors, which
is essential for peak performance. When moved from a warm
indoor location to cooler air outside(or vice-versa), a telescope
needs time to cool (or warm) to the outdoor temperature. The
bigger the instrument and the larger the temperature change,
the more time will be needed.
Out of collimation

Collimated

Figure 18. A star test will determine if a telescope’s optics are
properly collimated. An unfocused view of a bright star through
the eyepiece should appear as illustrated on the right if the optics
are perfectly collimated. If the circle is unsymmetrical, as in the
illustration on the left, the scope needs collimation.

the image with the focusing knob. If the telescope is correctly
collimated, the expanding disk should be a perfect circle
(Figure 18). If the image is unsymmetrical, the scope is out
of collimation. The dark shadow cast by the secondary mirror
should appear in the very center of the out-of-focus circle, like
the hole in a donut. If the “hole” appears off-center, the telescope is out of collimation.
If you try the star test and the bright star you have selected is
not accurately centered in the eyepiece, the optics will always
appear out of collimation, even though they may be perfectly
aligned. It is critical to keep the star centered, so over time you
will need to make slight corrections to the telescope’s position
in order to account for the sky’s apparent motion.
Note About the Collimatable 2" Focuser
(XT8 and XT10)
The 2" focuser of the SkyQuest XT8 can be collimated using
three pairs of push-pull screws located at the base of the
focuser. The focuser was collimated at the factory however,
and should never need to be adjusted. Focuser collimation is
only required under very rare circumstances, but has been
made available for this telescope should such a need arise.

5. Astronomical Observing
For many users, the SkyQuest XT telescope will be a major
leap into the world of amateur astronomy. This section is
intended to get you ready for your first voyage through the
night sky.
Site Selection
Pick a location away from streetlights and bright yard lighting.
Avoid viewing over rooftops and chimneys, as they often have
warm air currents rising from them, which distort the image
seen in the eyepiece.
Similarly, you should not observe through an open window
from indoors. Better yet, choose a site out-of-town, away from
any “light pollution”. You’ll be stunned at how many more stars
you’ll see! Most importantly, make sure that any chosen site
has a clear view of a large portion of the sky.

Allow at least 30 minutes for your SkyQuest XT to equilibrate.
If the scope experiences more than a 40° temperature change,
allow an hour or more. In the winter, storing the telescope in a
shed or garage greatly reduces the amount of time needed for
the optics to stabilize. It also is a good idea to keep the scope
covered until the Sun sets so the tube does not heat greatly
above the temperature of the outside air.
The XT8 and XT10 have the ability to mount a small fan to
make cooling the tube faster. On the bottom of the mirror cell
there are four holes where a fan can be screwed on.
Seeing and Transparency
Atmospheric conditions play a huge part in quality of viewing.
In conditions of good “seeing,” star twinkling is minimal and
objects appear steady in the eyepiece. Seeing is best overhead, worst at the horizon. Also, seeing generally gets better
after midnight, when much of the heat absorbed by the Earth
during the day has radiated off into space. Typically, seeing
conditions will be better at sites that have an altitude over about
3000 feet. Altitude helps because it decreases the amount of
distortion-causing atmosphere you are looking through.
A good way to judge if the seeing is good or not is to look at
bright stars about 40° above the horizon. If the stars appear to
“twinkle,” the atmosphere is significantly distorting the incoming light, and views at high magnifications will not appear
sharp. If the stars appear steady and do not twinkle, seeing
conditions are probably good and higher magnifications will
be possible. Also, seeing conditions are typically poor during
the day. This is because the heat from the Sun warms the air
and causes turbulence.
Good “transparency” is especially important for observing faint
objects. It simply means the air is free of moisture, smoke,
and dust. All tend to scatter light, which reduces an object’s
brightness.
One good way to tell if conditions are good is by how many
stars you can see with your naked eye. If you cannot see
stars of magnitude 3.5 or dimmer then conditions are poor.
Magnitude is a measure of how bright a star is, the brighter a
star is, the lower its magnitude will be. A good star to remember for this is Megrez (mag. 3.4), which is the star in the Big
Dipper connecting the handle to the “dipper.” If you cannot see
Megrez, then you have fog, haze, clouds, smog, light pollution, or other conditions that are hindering your viewing. (See
Figure 19)
Let Your Eyes Dark-Adapt
Do not expect to go from a lighted house into the darkness
of the outdoors at night and immediately see faint nebulas,
galaxies, and star clusters — or even very many stars, for that

1.9

4.9
2.4
1.9

1.7

2.4

3.4
2.5

Figure 19. Megrez connects the Big Dipper’s handle to it's “pan”.
It is a good guide to how conditions are. If you can not see Megrez
(a 3.4 mag star) then conditions are poor.

matter. Your eyes take about 30 minutes to reach perhaps 80%
of their full dark-adapted sensitivity. Many observers notice
improvements after several hours of total darkness. As your
eyes become dark-adapted, more stars will glimmer into view
and you will be able to see fainter details in objects you view
in your telescope. So give yourself at least a little while to get
used to the dark before you begin observing.
To see what you are doing in the darkness, use a red light
flashlight rather than a white light. Red light does not spoil
your eyes’ dark adaptation like white light does. A flashlight
with a red LED light is ideal, or you can cover the front of a
regular flashlight with red cellophane or paper. Beware, too,
that nearby porch and streetlights and automobile headlights
will spoil your night vision.
Tracking Celestial Objects
The Earth is constantly rotating about its polar axis, completing one full rotation every 24 hours; this is what defines a “day.”
We do not feel the Earth rotating, but we can tell that it is at
night by seeing the apparent movement of stars from east to
west. This movement translates into a rate of approximately
.25° per minute, or 15 arc-seconds per second. (There are 60
arc-minutes in 1°, and 60 arc-seconds in one arc-minute.) This
is called the sidereal rate.
When you observe any astronomical object, you are watching
a moving target. This means the telescope’s position must be
continuously updated over time to keep an object in the field
of view. This is easy to do with the SkyQuest XT because of its
smooth motions on both axes. As the object moves off toward
the edge of the field of view, you just lightly nudge the telescope to bring it back to the center.
You will notice that it is more difficult to “track” objects when
the telescope tube is aimed nearly straight up. This is inherent
to the basic design of the Dobsonian, and stems from the fact
that there is very little mechanical leverage to move in azimuth
when the tube is in a near vertical position. To gain more leverage, try grasping the tube close to the altitude side bearings
with both hands.
Remember that objects appear to move across the field of
view faster at higher magnifications. This is because the field
of view becomes narrower.

Eyepiece Selection
By using eyepieces of varying focal lengths, it is possible to
attain many magnifications with the SkyQuest XT. The telescope comes with one high-quality Sirius Plössl eyepiece: a
25mm, which gives a magnification of 48x. Other eyepieces
can be used to achieve higher or lower powers. It is quite common for an observer to own five or more eyepieces to access
a wide range of magnifications. This allows the observer to
choose the best eyepiece to use depending on the object
being viewed.
Whatever you choose to view, always start by inserting your
lowest-power (longest focal length) eyepiece to locate and
center the object. Low magnification yields a wide field of view,
which shows a larger area of sky in the eyepiece. This makes
acquiring and centering an object much easier. If you try to
find and center objects with high power (narrow field of view),
it’s like trying to find a needle in a haystack!
Once you’ve centered the object in the eyepiece, you can
switch to higher magnification (shorter focal length eyepiece),
if you wish. This is especially recommended for small and
bright objects, like planets and double stars. The Moon also
takes higher magnifications well.
Deep-sky objects, however, typically look better at medium or
low magnifications. This is because many of them are quite
faint, yet have some extent (apparent width). Deep-sky objects
will often disappear at higher magnifications, since greater
magnification inherently yields dimmer images. This is not
the case for all deep-sky objects, however. Many galaxies are
quite small, yet are somewhat bright, so higher power may
show more detail.
The best rule of thumb with eyepiece selection is to start with a
low power, wide field, and then work your way up in magnification. If the object looks better, try an even higher magnification.
If the object looks worse, then back off the magnification a
little by using a lower-power eyepiece.
Using 2" Eyepieces (XT8 and XT10)
The SkyQuest XT8 and XT10 Crayford focusers are capable
of accepting optional 2" eyepieces. To use 2" eyepieces you
must remove the 1.25" adapter from the focuser by turning
the two thumbscrews that hold it in place. Once this adapter
is removed, insert a 2” eyepiece directly into the eyepiece
holder and use the same thumbscrews to secure the larger
eyepiece.
2" eyepieces are desirable because they provide a wider field of
view than 1.25" eyepiece. Many observers own at least one 2"
eyepiece to yield the largest field of view possible for looking at
wide deep-sky objects, such as open star clusters or gaseous
nebulae. You’ll be stunned at the large fields of view that 2" eyepieces deliver. You’ll feel like you’re floating in space!
Now that you are all set up and ready to go, one critical
decision must be made: what to look at?
A. The Moon
With is rocky and cratered surface, the Moon is one of the
most interesting and easy subjects to view with your scope.
The best time to view it is during its partial phases when
13

shadows fall on the craters and canyon walls to give them definition. While the full moon may look like a tempting target, it
is not optimal for viewing! The light is too bright and surface
definition is low.
Even at partial phases the Moon is very bright. Use of an
optional Moon filter to helps to dim the glare. It simply threads
onto the bottom of the eyepiece. You’ll find the Moon filter
improves viewing comfort, and helps bring out the subtle features of the lunar surface.
B. The Sun
You can change your nighttime telescope into a daytime Sun
viewer by installing an optional full-aperture solar filter over the
front opening of the telescope. The primary attraction is sunspots, which change shape, appearance, and location daily.
Sunspots are directly related to magnetic activity in the Sun.
Many observers like to make drawings of sunspots to monitor
how the Sun is changing from day to day.
Important Note: Do not look at the Sun with any optical
instrument without a professionally made solar filter, or
permanent eye damage could result. Also, be sure to cover
the finder scope, or better yet, remove it altogether.
C. The Planets
The planets don’t stay put like the stars, so to find them you
should refer to the Learning Center at our website telescope.
com and choose “In the Sky”, or to charts published monthly in
Astronomy, Sky & Telescope, or other astronomy magazines.
Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn are the brightest objects
in the sky after the Sun and the Moon. Your SkyQuest XT is
capable of showing you these planets in some detail. Other
planets may be visible but will likely appear starlike. Because
planets are quite small in apparent size, optional higher power
eyepieces are recommended and often needed for detailed
observations. Not all the planets are generally visible at any
one time.
JUPITER The largest planet, Jupiter, is a great subject for
observation. You can see the disk of the giant planet and
watch the ever-changing positions of its four largest moon:
Io, Callisto, Europa, and Ganymede. Higher power eyepieces
should bring out the cloud bands on the planet’s disk and the
Great Red Spot.
SATURN The ringed planet is a breathtaking sight. The tilt
angle of the rings varies over a period of many years; sometimes they are seen edge-on, while at other times they are
broadside and look like giant “ears” on each side of Saturn’s
disk. A steady atmosphere (good seeing) is necessary for a
good view. Look closely and you should see the Cassini division, a thin, dark gap in the rings. You should also see one or
more of Saturn’s moons, which look like faint stars. The brightest is the moon Titan.
VENUS At its brightest, Venus is the most luminous object in
the sky, excluding the Sun and the Moon. It is so bright that
sometimes it is visible to the naked eye during full daylight!
Ironically, Venus appears as a thin crescent, not a full disk,
when at its peak brightness. Because it is so close to the Sun,
it never wanders too far from the morning or evening horizon.

No surface markings can be seen on Venus, which is always
shrouded in dense clouds.
MARS The Red Planet makes a close approach to Earth
every two years. Observing Mars is most favorable at these
times. You should see salmon-colored disk with some distinct
dark patches, and you may be able to spot a whitish polar ice
cap. To see surface detail on Mars, you will need a high power
eyepiece and very steady air!
D. The Stars
Stars will appear as tiny points of light. Even powerful telescopes cannot magnify stars to appear as anything more than
pinpoints. You can, however, enjoy the different colors of the
stars and locate many pretty double and multiple stars. The
famous “Double-Double” in the constellation Lyra and the gorgeous two-color double star Albireo in Cygnus are favorites.
Defocusing a star slightly can help bring out its color.
E. Deep-Sky Objects
Under dark skies, you can observe a wealth of fascinating
deep-sky objects; that is, objects that reside outside of our
solar system. These include gaseous nebulas, open and
globular star clusters, and a variety of different types of galaxies. The large apertures of SkyQuest XT Dobsonians are
particularly well suited to gathering light, which is critical for
observing these usually faint celestial entities. For deep-sky
observing it is important that you find an observing site well
away from light pollution. Take plenty of time to let your eyes
adjust to the darkness. As you become more experienced and
your observing skills get sharper, you will be able to ferret out
more and more subtle details and structure from these fascinating objects. Do not expect to see color in deep-sky objects,
however, as human eyes are not sensitive to color from faint
light.
How to Find Deep-sky Objects: Starhopping
Starhopping, as it is called by astronomers, is perhaps the
simplest way to hunt down objects to view in the night sky. It
entails first pointing the telescope at a star close to the object
you wish to observe, and then progressing to other stars
closer and closer to the object until it is in the field of view
of the eyepiece. It is a very intuitive technique that has been
employed for hundreds of years by professional and amateur
astronomers alike. Keep in mind, as with any new task, that
starhopping may seem challenging at first, but will become
easier over time and with practice.
To starhop, only a minimal amount of additional equipment is
necessary. A star chart or atlas that shows stars to at least
magnitude 5 is required. Select one that shows the positions
of many deep-sky objects, so you will have a lot of options to
choose from. If you do not know the positions of the constellations in the night sky, you will need to get a planisphere to
identify them.
Start by choosing bright objects to view. The brightness of
an object is measured by its visual magnitude; the brighter
an object, the lower its magnitude. Choose an object with a
visual magnitude of 9 or lower. Many beginners start with the
Messier objects, which represent some of the best and bright-

give you inverted images, keep this in mind when you are starhopping from star to star.
Note About Astrophotography
SkyQuest Dobsonians are designed for visual, not photographic use. The Dobsonian mount is not an equatorial-type
mount, so it cannot be motor driven for long exposure astrophotography. SkyQuests have also been optically optimized
for visual use, since photographic optimization degrades visual performance.
With that in mind, however, it is possible to do some simple
astrophotography with a SkyQuest. With the use of afocal photography techniques (where the camera is simply placed to
the eyepiece to take a picture) and digital cameras, it is possible to take pictures of bright objects. Certain photographic
aids, such as the Orion SteadyPix, can help in taking photos
by the afocal method.

6. Care and Maintenance
Figure 20. Starhopping is a good way to locate hard-to-find
objects. Refer to a star chart to map a route to the object that uses
bright stars as guideposts. Center the first star you’ve chosen
in the EZ Finder II and telescope eyepiece (1). Now move the
scope carefully in the direction of the next bright star (2), until it is
centered. Repeat (3&4). The last hop (5) should place the desired
object in the eyepiece.

est deep-sky objects, first catalogued about 200 years ago by
the French astronomer Charles Messier.
Determine in which constellation the object lies. Now, find the
constellation in the sky. If you do not recognize the constellation on sight, consult a planisphere. The planisphere gives an
all-sky view and shows which constellations are visible on a
given night at a given time.
Now look at your star chart and find the brightest star in the
constellation that is near the object that you are trying to find.
Using the EZ Finder II, point the telescope at this star and
center it on the red dot. Next, look again at the star chart and
find another suitably bright star near the bright star currently
centered in the finder. Keep in mind that the field of view of
the EZ Finder II is 10°, so you should choose a star that is no
more than 10° from the first star, if possible. Move the telescope slightly, until the telescope is centered on the new star.
Continue using stars as guideposts in this way until you are
the approximate position of the object you are trying to find
(Figure 20). Look in the telescope’s eyepiece, and the object
should be somewhere within the field of view. If it’s not, sweep
the telescope carefully around the immediate vicinity until the
object is found.
If you have trouble finding the object, start the starhop again
from the brightest star near the object you wish to view. This
time, be sure the stars indicated on the star chart are in fact
the stars you are centering in the EZ Finder II and telescope
eyepiece. Remember the telescope and the EZ Finder II will

If you give your telescope reasonable care, it will last a lifetime.
Store it in a clean, dry, dust free place, safe from rapid changes in temperature and humidity. Do not store the telescope
outdoors, although storage in a garage or shed is OK. Small
components like eyepieces and other accessories should be
kept in a protective box or storage case. Keep the caps on the
front of the scope and on the focuser when it is not in use. For
maximum protection during storage, we recommend placing
the telescope in a case to prevent any dust and moisture from
accumulating on exposed surfaces.
The telescope requires very little mechanical maintenance.
The optical tube is made of steel and has a smooth painted
finish that is fairly scratch-resistant. If a scratch does appear
on the tube, it will not harm the telescope. If you wish, you may
apply some auto touch-up paint to the scratch. Smudges on
the tube can be wiped off with a soft cloth and a household
cleaner.
Cleaning Lenses
Any quality optical lens cleaning tissue and optical lens cleaning fluid specifically designed for multi-coated optics can be
used to clean the exposed lenses of your eyepieces. Never use
regular glass cleaner or cleaning fluid designed for eyeglasses
Before cleaning with fluid and tissue, blow any loose particles
off the lens with a blower bulb or compressed air. Then apply
some cleaning fluid to a tissue, never directly on the optics.
Wipe the lens gently in a circular motion, then remove any
excess fluid with a fresh lens tissue. Oily fingerprints and
smudges may be removed using this method. Use caution;
rubbing too hard may scratch the lens. On larger lenses, clean
only a small area at a time, using a fresh lens tissue on each
area. Never reuse tissues.
Cleaning Mirrors
You should not have to clean the telescope’s mirrors very often;
normally once every year or so. Covering the telescope with
the dust cover when it is not in use will help prevent dust from
accumulating on the mirrors. Improper cleaning can scratch
mirror coatings, so the fewer times you have to clean the mir15

rors, the better. Small specks of dust or flecks of paint have
virtually no effect on the visual performance of the telescope.

7. Specifications

The large primary mirror and the elliptical secondary mirror of
your telescope are front-surface aluminized and overcoated
with hard silicon dioxide, which prevents the aluminum from
oxidizing. These coatings normally last through many years of
use before requiring re-coating, which is easily done.

SkyQuest XT 6"
Primary mirror
focal length:

To clean the secondary mirror, it must be removed from the
telescope. Do this by holding the secondary mirror holder stationary with your fingers (don’t touch the mirror itself) while
unthreading the Phillips head screw in the center hub of the
4-vaned spider. Completely unthread the screw from the holder, and the holder will come loose in your fingers. Be careful
not to lose the spring on the Phillips head screw.

Focal Ratio:

f/8.0

Focuser:

Rack and pinion, accepts 1.25"
eyepieces

Optical tube material:

Rolled steel

Eyepiece:

25mm Sirius Plössl, fully coated
with multi‑coatings, 1.25" barrel
diameter

Magnification with
supplied eyepiece:

48x

Reflex Sight:

EZ Finder II

Reflex Sight Bracket:

Plastic bracket with dovetail base

Mirror coatings:

Aluminum with SiO2 overcoat

Minor axis of
secondary mirror:

34.5mm

Optical tube weight:

13.5 lbs.

Base weight:

20.9 lbs.

Tube length:

45.5"

Tube outer diameter:

7.25"

SkyQuest XT 8"
Primary mirror
focal length:

1200mm, standard optical glass

Handle the mirror and its holder carefully. You do not need to
remove the secondary mirror from its holder for cleaning. To
clean the secondary mirror, follow the procedure described
below for cleaning the primary mirror.
To clean the primary mirror, carefully remove the mirror cell
from the telescope. To do this, you must remove the screws
that connect the entire mirror cell to the steel tube. These
screws are located on the outer edge of the mirror cell.
Now, remove the mirror from the mirror cell by removing the
three mirror clips that secure the mirror in its cell. Use a Phillips
head screwdriver to unthread the mirror clip anchor screws.
Next, hold the mirror by its edge, and remove it from the mirror cell. Be careful not to touch the aluminized surface of the
mirror with your fingers. Set the mirror on a clean, soft towel.
Fill a clean sink, free of abrasive cleanser, with room-temperature water, a few drops of liquid dishwashing detergent, and
if possible, a capful of rubbing alcohol. Submerge the mirror
(aluminized face up) in the water and let it soak for several
minutes (or hours if it is a very dirty mirror). Wipe the mirror
underwater with clean cotton balls, using extremely light pressure and stroking in straight lines across the surface. Use one
ball for each wipe across the mirror. Then rinse the mirror
under a stream of lukewarm water. Any particles on the surface can be swabbed gently with a series of clean cotton balls,
each used just one time. Dry the mirror in a stream of air (a
“blower bulb” works great), or remove any stray drops of water
with the corner of a paper towel. Water will run off a clean surface. Dry the bottom and the edges with a towel (not the mirror
surface!). Cover the mirror surface with tissue, and leave the
entire assembly in a warm area until it is completely dry before
reassembling the telescope.

1200mm, standard optical glass

Primary mirror diameter: 150mm

Primary mirror diameter: 203mm
Focal Ratio:

f/5.9

Focuser:

Crayford, accepts 2" eyepieces
and 1.25" eyepieces with adapter

Optical tube material:

Rolled steel

Eyepiece:

25mm Sirius Plössl, fully coated
with multi‑coatings, 1.25" barrel
diameter

Magnification with
supplied eyepiece:

48x

Reflex Sight:

EZ Finder II

Reflex Sight Bracket:

Plastic bracket with dovetail base

Mirror coatings:

Aluminum with SiO2 overcoat

Minor axis of
secondary mirror:

47.0mm

Optical tube weight:

20.3 lbs.

Base weight:

20.7 lbs.

Tube length:

46.5"

Tube outer diameter:

9.25"

SkyQuest XT 10"
Primary mirror
focal length:

1200mm

Primary mirror diameter: 254mm, BK7 optical glass
Focal Ratio:

f/4.7

Focuser:

Crayford, accepts 2" and 1.25"
eyepieces with included adapter,
collimatible

Optical tube material:

Rolled steel

Eyepiece:

25mm Sirius Plössl, fully coated
with multi‑coatings, 1.25" barrel
diameter

Magnification with
supplied eyepiece:

48x

Reflex Sight:

EZ Finder II

Reflex Sight Bracket:

Plastic bracket with dovetail base

Mirror coatings:

Aluminum with SiO2 overcoat

Minor axis of
secondary mirror:

63.0mm

Optical tube weight:

30.8 lbs.

Base weight:

22.6 lbs.

Tube length:

47.25"

Tube outer diameter:

12.0"

One-Year Limited Warranty
This Orion SkyQuest XT telescope is warranted against defects in materials or workmanship for a period
of one year from the date of purchase. This warranty is for the benefit of the original retail purchaser only.
During this warranty period Orion Telescopes & Binoculars will repair or replace, at Orion’s option, any
warranted instrument that proves to be defective, provided it is returned postage paid to: Orion Warranty
Repair, 89 Hangar Way, Watsonville, CA 95076. If the product is not registered, proof of purchase (such
as a copy of the original invoice) is required.
This warranty does not apply if, in Orion’s judgment, the instrument has been abused, mishandled, or
modified, nor does it apply to normal wear and tear. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and
you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state. For further warranty service information,
contact: Customer Service Department, Orion Telescopes & Binoculars, 89 Hangar Way, Watsonville, CA
95076; (800)‑676-1343.

Orion Telescopes & Binoculars
89 Hangar Way, Watsonville, CA 95076

Customer Support Help Line (800)‑676-1343 • Day or Evening
18

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Orion Skyquest Xt10 Classic Users Manual

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