Maytagfridge56326

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Side-By-Side

and

ToP

Mount

Refrigerator

Service

Manual

svF-0289

PRINTED

U.S.A.

o Copyright

1989

-- ,-a. l..r 4-- , ,.-.-.-,=--:..

56326 ]

INDEX

4-1

4-4

4-8

4-11

4-15

4-16

4-17

4-20

4-25

4-28

4-33

4-34

4-36

SaBIECT

SECTION

. INTRODUCTION

SECTION

2 . INSTALLATION

Specifications

Warranty

Installation

Instructions

Operation

SECTION

3. SERVICE

PROCEDURES

General

Checking

Operation

Leak

Testing

Leak

Testing

Yoder

LooP

Checking

Pressures

Evacuating

& Recharging

Sealed

System

SweeP

Charge

SECTION

4 - COMPONENTS

Compressor

Heat

Exchanger

Condenser

Freezer

Evaporator

Electrical

System

Compressor

Overload

Protector

Starting

RelaY

PTC & Run CaPacitor

Temperature

Oontrol

Defrost

Timer

Defrost

Heater

& Thermostat

Condenser

Fan

Freezer

Fan

Divider Channel

Heater

SECTION

5 . CABINET

& RELATED

COMPONENTS

Food

Liner

Compartment

Accessories

(shelves)

PAGE SaBIECT

2-1

2-4

2-5

2-14

3-1

3-5

3-7

3-8

3-10

3-12

3-14

Meat

Keeper 5-3

Freezer

Cold

Control 5-4

Mounting

Hardware 5-6

Drain

Tubes 5-6

Styrofoam

Drip

Tray 5-7

Cabinet

Doors

& Assoc.

Parts 5'9

Paint Touch-up 5-9

Door

Liner 5-9

Door Panel S10

Reversing

Doors $11

Top

Hinge 5-11

Door Closer 5-11

Shelf Guards 5'12

Cabinet

Wheels 5-12

Cabinet

Leveling 5-12

Gasket

Seal 5-13

Door

Switch 5-14

Water Components 5-15

Water

Supply 5-15

Water

Valve 5-15

Water Fill

Tubing 5-15

Water

Reservoir S18

Fountain

Assembly 5-2O

lce & Water

Fountain 5-20

lce & Water

Actuator

Switch 5-21

Dash-Pot 5-22

Switch

Assembly 5-22

lce & Water

Activating

Sw. +23

lce Dispensing

Safety

Door 5-23

Fountain

Heater 5-23

lce Storage

Bin 5-24

Interlock

Switch 5-24

Auger 5-25

PACE

SECTION6.ICEMAKER

lnstallation

Servicing

SECTION

7 . TROUBLESHOOTING

SECTION

8 . SCHEMATICS

sEcTroN

I - SPECIFICATIONS

6-1

6-10

5-1

MI\YTAG SECTION I

INTRODUCTION

GENERAL

This

manual covers

Maytag Refrigerators

manufactured beginning in 1989. Those

models

covered are 15, 17, 19, 20, 21,22,23 and

24 cubic

foot

Side-By-Side and

Top Mount

ref rigerators.

SAFETY

PRECAUTIONS

This

service information is intended to be used

by a qualified

service technician, who is

familiar with proper and safe

procedures

to be followed when repairing any electrical

appliance.

All fests and repairs should be performed

by a qualified

service technician,

using only Genuine Maytag

parts.

Repairs and servicing

attempted by uninformed

persons

can result in hazards

developing

due to improper assembly

or adjustment. While

performing

such

repairs,

persons

not

having

the

proper

background may

subject

themselves to the risk

of injury

or electrical

shock which can be

serious or even

fatal.

1-1

M/\YTAG SECTION 2

INSTALLATION

SPECIFICATIONS

TOP

MOUNT

Models

SIDE.BY.SIDE

Models

RSC2OA

RSD2OA

RSD22A

RSW22A

RSD24A

RSW24A

RTC15A

RTS17A

RTC17A

RTD17A

RTS19A

RTC19A

RTD19A

RTD21A

RTW22A

RTD23A

2-1

DIMENSIONS

TOP

MOUNT SIDE-BY.SIDE

*"1 L-C

It-B--hrl

ri o

:l ; lrl

lr trln

I r-----------------r-1 I "

-i:

ffi

Mod. No. ABcDEFG

RTC15A 60" 29" 31

3t10" 25

3t8" 27 5/8" 29 15t16" 55 3/8"

RTSl 7A 641t2" 29' 31 3/10" 25

3t8" 27 5t8" 29 15/16" 55 3/8"

RTCl7A 641/2" 29" 31

3/10" 25

3t8" 27

5/8" 29

15t16" 55 3/8"

RTD17A 64 1/2" ZJ 31 3/10" 25

3/8' 27 5/8" 29 15/16" 55 3t8"

RTC19A 65112" 31 1t2" 33 4t5" 25

3t8" 27

5t8" 30" 57 7

/8"

RTS19A 651/2' 31

1t2" 33 4t5' 25 3/8' 27

5/8" erl" 57 7 l8'

RTD19A 65 1t2" 31

1/2" 33 4t5" 25 3t8" 27

5/8" 30" 57 7t8"

RTD21A 651t2" 31 1/2" 33 4t5" 28

3t8" 30 5/8" 32

15/16" 60

7 /8"

RTW22A 65 1t2" 33" 3511t32" 28

3t8" 30 5/8" 32

15t16" 62 3t8"

RTD23A 651/2" 33" 3511t32' 28 3t8" 30

5t8" 32

15/16" 62

3t8"

RSC2OA 66 3/8" JI 34 7 t8" 26

3t4" 29" 31

11t32" 46

3t4"

RSD2OA 66 3/8" JI 34 7 /8" 26

3t4" ZJ 31

11t32" 46 3t4"

RSD22A 66 3/8' 33" 36 7 t8" 26

3t4" 29 1/4" 3111t32" 48

3t4"

RSD24A 66

3/8" 35 3t4" 39 3/5" 26

3t4" 29" 31 11t32' 48

3t4"

RSW22A 66

3/8" 33" 36 7 /8" 26

3t4" 29 114" 31 11/32" 48 3t4"

RSW24A 66

3/8" 35 3/4" 39 3/5" 26

3t4" 29" 3111t32" 48

3/4"

2-2

CAPACITY

Mod. No. Total Volume Fresh Food Vol. Freezer Vol. Total

Shelf

Area

RTC15A 14.7 10.51 4.14 22.6

RTS17A 16.5 11.69 4.83 23.8

RTC17A 16.5 11.69 4.83 24.2

RTD17A 16.5 11.69 4.83 24.2

RTC19A 18.6 12.89 5.70 28.6

RTS19A 18.6 12.90 5.70 26.3

RTD19A 18.5 12.81 5.70 28.4

RTD21A 21.0 '14.59 6.42 32.5

RTW22A 21.9 14.98 6.91 32.9

RTD23A 22.5 15.52 6.96 34.6

RSC2OA 20.2 13.66 6.57 24.4

RSD2OA 20.2 13.58 o.c/ 24.4

RSD22A 21.8 15.22 6.57 25.3

RSD24A 23.8 15.22 8.53 29.5

RSW22A 21.6 15.22 6.34 24.1

RSW24A 23.5 15.22 8.25 28.1

2-3

MAYTAG REFRIGERATOR WARRANTY

Full

One Year

Warranty

For

one

(1) year

from the

date of

original retail

purchase,

any

part

which

fails

in normal

home

use will be

repaired

replaced

f ree

of charge.

Limited

Warranty

Second

thru Fifth Year

- major refrigeration

components:

After the first

year

and through

the

fifth

year

after the

date

of original

retail

purchase

Maytag will

repair

or replace,

its

option, f ree

charge to the

owner for

parts

and labor

any

part

of the

sealed

refrigeration

system

(consisting

ol the

compressor,

evaporator,

condenser,

drier

and

connecting

tubing)

and the

cabinet liner

(exclusive

of the

door liner)

which fails

in normal

home

use. Trrp

charges,

travel

and transportation,

if required,

shall

be the responsibility

of the

owner.

Second

year

- other

parts:

Other

parts

which

fail

in normal

home

use

during the

second

year

following

date

of original

retail

purchase

will

repaired

or replace

free

of charge

for the

part

itsell,

with

the

owner

paying

all

other

costs,

including

labor

and trip

charges.

lce Maker

when

purchased

with

the refrigerator

and installed

by the

dealer the

ice

maker

will

be considered

part

of the

ref rigerator

for

warranty

purposes.

This

full

warranty

and the

limited

warranty

apply

only when

the

appliance

is located

the

United

States

Canada.

LIMITATION

OF LIABILITY

The

warrantor,

Maytag

Company,

shall not

be liable

for

any incidental

or consequential

damages,

including

food

loss. Some states

do not

allow

the

exclusion

or limitations

of consequential

damages,

the

above

limitations

exclusion

may

not apply

you.

How

and

Where

to Receive

Warranty

Service

Call

or write the

authorized

Maytag

dealer

from

whom

the

appliance

was

purchased

or the

authorized

service

firm

designated

it.

the

owner moves from

the

selling

dealer's

servicing

area

after

purchase,

call

or write

any

authorized

Maytag

dealer

authorized

service

firm

or near the

new

location.

Should

the

owner not

receive

satisfactory

warranty

service from

one

the

above, call

write

MAyCOR

Appliance

Parts

and

Service

Company,

240

Edwards

Street

S.E.,

Cleveland,

97911,

a division

of Maytag

Corporation,

and

arrangements

for

warranty

service

will

be made.

This

Warranty

gives

you

specific

legal

rights,

and

you

may

also have

other

rights

which

vary from

state to

state.

2-4

MAYTAG

COMPANYO

Newton,

towa

50208

INSTALLATION

INSTRUCTIONS

ELECTRICAL

REQUI REM

ENTS

OBSERVE ALL NATIONAL ELECTRICAL

CODES AND LOCAL CODES

ORDINANCES

ELECTRICAL

SERVICE

- 120 VOLTS,

60 Hz

ONLY

A 120 volt,

60 Hz, 15 ampere fused

electrical supply is required.

individual

branch

(or

separate

circuit serving only this

appliance

recommended.)

NOT USE

EXTENSION

CORD unless it meets

all

requirements

as outlined for

grounding,

polarizing

(3-wire)

and

capacity. Wire

size should be

least No. 14.

BEFORE PLUGGING

lN POWER

CORD, OPERATING

OR TESTING,

Follow grounding

instructions

Grounding

Section.

GROUNDING

. 120

VOLTS, 60

IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

WARNING

- To

prevent

unnecessary risk of fire, electrical

shock

or personal

injury, all

wiring

and

grounding

must

be done

in accordance

with National

Electrical

Code and local

codes

and ordinances. lt is the personal

responsibility

and obligation

of the appliance

owner to

provide

adequate electrical

service for this

appliance.

ELECTRICAL

GROUTVD 'S REQUIRED

ON THIS

APPLIANCE

GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS

This

appliance is

equipped with

a power

supply

cord having

a 3-prong

grounding

plug. For

your

safety, this cord must

plugged

into

a mating

3 prong

type wall

receptacle

which is properly wired,

grounded

and

polarized.

lf a mating wall receptacle

is not

available.

Contact

a qualified

electrician

to have the wall receptacle

replaced.

there is any question,

local building

off

icials or electrical

utility should be

consulted.

DO NOT

UNDER ANY

CIRCUMSTANCES,

REMOVE THE ROUND GROUNDING

PRONG FROM

POWER

SUPPLY

CORD.

2-5

UNCRATING

1. Lay

appliance on back.

2. Remove

bottom cap by cutting

band

and

pulling

cap

away.

3. Remove crate base by removing

four

(4)

bolts.

4. Discard crate base.

5. Return appliance to an upright

position

6. Lift carton up and off.

NOTE:

lf using a hand

truck to move

refrigerator. NEVER PLACE STRAP

OVER THE HANDLES. Avoid

overtightening strap to prevent

misaligning doors.

7. Remove

all exterior and

interior tape,

carefully

retain

old

tape. Make a small

pad of this tape to pick off any

remaining tape residues. This will

eliminate

the need to use dangerous

solvents

any

kind.

8. Remove and discard cantilever shelf

packing

clips located

just

above each

shelf where

it hooks

onto

the frame.

To remove

a clip,

wiggle

sideways and

pull

straight out.

NOTE: Should it be necessary to remove

the doors

for installation

purposes,

see

page

2-9. ln addition,

hinges may be

removed if necessary. Care MUST be

taken since the water and electrical lines

will need

to be disconnected

on those

models with ice and water fountains. Both

can be disconnected

just behind the

hinge.

LOCATION

1. Select a location for your new

ref rigerator away f rom any heat

sources. Allow a free flow of air

through the front base

grille.

2. Your model

should

NOT

be installed

where the temperature will go below

55"F because

if will not

run frequently

enough to maintain proper

temperature in the freezer.

3. For ease of installation,

you should

leave

a space of about one-half inch

between your ref rigerator and

adjacent walls or cabinets.

WATER

CONNECTION

For those models without an lce Maker.

Most models are designed so an

automatic lce Maker can be easily

installed. The lce Maker kits

come

with

installation instructions. water connection

instructions and other information

concerning the ice maker operation.

For

those models

with lce

Maker.

locate water valve:

For the 22 and 24 cubic foot models,

remove

the center screw from the right

end of the

black

fiber

panel

that covers

the

machine compartment with a socket

driver, and fold back the etch marked flap.

Save the screw for later reinstallation

this flap

is required for proper

and safe

operation of the refrigerator.

For

the 20 cubic foot model. follow above

sequence for the left side of the fiber

panel.

To connect

water:

All installations

must be in accordance

with local

plumbing

code requirements.

2-6

Copper

tubing

( 114" O.D.)

and saddle

valve can be purchased

f rom local

hardware stores. Sweat or f lare

connection

can be used instead

of the

compression

union,

if desired. 4.

not use

plastic

tubing or

plastic

fittings

because

the connection

between

the

water supply

and the refrigerator

water

valve inlet is under

constant

pressure.

Also,

certain

types of plastic

tubing

may

become brittle with age and crack,

resulting

in water

leakage.

NOTE:

When using

unfiltered

well

water,

it is advisable

to use

a filter in

the water

supply

line.

This

eliminates

all

possibility

of small

particles

from entering

the water

valve.

Find

a 318" to 1" vertical COLD

water

pipe near the ref rigerator. Water

pressure

must be

between

20 and

12Q

P.S.l.

Vertical

pipe

preferable,

but

a horizontal

pipe will work. lf a

horizontal

pipe is used,

install the

saddle

valve on the

top

the side

the

pipe,

not on the bottom.

Install

the saddle

valve according

manufacturer's

instructions

included

with the

valve.

Route the copper

tubing

through

the

floor, wall or

sink cabinet

to the saddle

valve location. Form the excess

tubing

into a

large loop.

This allows movement for the

refrigerator

without disconnecting

the

tubing. Other

routing

methods

are

shown

page

2-8.

Slide

the

brass

nut and

sleeve

onto

the

114" copper

tubing. Insert the end

the

tubing into

the saddle

valve as

far

as it

will

and

tighten

the nut with

adjustable

wrench.

Turn off

the saddle

valve.

COLD WATER

- LINE

PIPE

CLAMPS

BRASS SLEEVE

1. MANUAL

SHUT.OFF

VALVE

Turn ON

the

main water supply

and

flush

out the water

pipe until

water

runs clear. At

the same

time, check

for leaks at

the

saddle

valve, After

the

water has cleared,

flush

out

the tubing

from the saddle

valve to the water

valve into a bucket

by turning

the

saddle

valve on. When

the

water has

cleared,

turn off the saddle

valve.

Connect

the water line

from the saddle

valve

to the water

valve as shown

steps

4 and 5. (Also

see drawing

step 3.) Insert

the water

line into the

compression union

as far as

it will

go.

Tighten each brass nut with one

wrench on the nut and the other

wrench

on the compression

union.

Rotate water line

to vertical. Secure

water

supply

line clamp

with one

type

screw. Tighten

hose nut with

pliers.

Turn on saddle

valve. Tighten any

connections

that

leak.

the hinged access

panel

and

secure with screw.

* / "rorrrut

Htt**

2-7

I' Plug

the

power

cord

and

push

the

refrigerator

to the

walt,

arranging

the

copper

tubing

that it

does

not

vibrate

against

the

back

of the

refrigerator

against

the

wall.

IMPORTANT:

Because

the

refrigerator

and ice

maker

are warm.

may

take

hours

before

the

ice maker

produces

the first

suppty

of ice

cubes.

The

Crawl

Space

Under

The Hdme Through

The

Wall

To The

Utility

Room

Cold

Water

piDe

lf the

floor

not level

and

necessary

raise

the

rear

of the

cabinet,

suggest

rolling

the

rear

wheels

piece

plywood

other

shim

material.

Under

The

Sink

The

Cold

Water

pipe

LEVELING

enhance

its

appearance

and

maintain

efficient

performance,

your

refrigerator

should

level. The

front

wheels

were

adjusted

at the

iactory

so th; cabinet

would

be levet.

Ho.wever,

jarring

transit,

standing

the

refrigerator

uneven

floor

may

cause

the

cabinet

appear

unlevel.

leveling

necessary,

remove

the

base

grille

and

adjust

the

wheels

with

a screwdriver

shown

below.

Tilt

refrigerator

back

jusi

enough

illow easy

turning

of the

adjusting

screws. On Top Mount

models

only,

turn

clockwise

to raise

the cabinet

corner

and

counterclockwise

to lower

cabinet

corner.

Side-by-Side

models

the

procedure

just

reversed.

Also,

lock

front

wheels

secure

refrigerator.

Through

The Floor

Basement

Cold

Water Pipe

2-8

REVERSING

DOORS

Top Mount

Models

Only

Door reversal

is NOT

possible

on those

models that

have a built-in

ice and water

lountain. However, if door removal

becomes

necessary

please see the note

in Step

Unplug Refrigerator. lf unit is in use,

remove food

from fresh

food compartment

and

freezer com

partment.

Removing doors.

NOTE: Taping doors shut prior to

physically

removing them may prevent

unnecessary

damage.

1. Remove hinge cover from top of

treezer door by

removing screw.

2. Remove

three

(3)

screws

from hinge.

Lift

hinge

off of cabinet.

Open

freezer

door,

pivot

and

lift door

off of center

hinge

pin.

NOTE: Keep track at all times the

position

of all spacers and

pads

when

removing them from doors.

Remove

center pin using a 5116"

wrench.

Open

refrigerator door and

lift

door off

lower hinge

and

place

to the side

for now.

Remove center

hinge by

removing

two

(2)

screws

using Torx-T27 drive.

Remove screws

from opposite side

the cabinet.

Flip

center

hinge

over

and reinstall on

left

side

of cabinet using

the same

screws

you just removed from the

center

hinge. Reinstall screws that

were used on

the

opposite

side.

NOTE: lf door

removal is necessary

on those models with an ice and

water

fountain,

use care in removing the

water and electrical lines

from the

hinge by pulling

the water line

first

followed by

the

electrical

wires,

2-9

Reversing

lreezer

door.

10. Take freezer

door and remove

screw

from

trim cap

on the top

of the

door.

11.

Slide black trim

off

the

metal handle

bracket.

$tide Black

Trim

Off Bracket

12.

Remove

screw

holding

metal handle

bracket

the

top

of the

door.

13.

Remove

two

(2)

screws holding

handle

bottom

of door.

Handle

and trim

should

be completely

removed

from freezer

door.

Pry

plugs

on left

side

on top

off with

flat

blade

screwdriver,

taking

care not

damage

them

or the

door.

Put

plugs

into

exposed

holes

on the

right

hand

side of treezer

door. These

would

be the

holes

you

just

removed

the

screws

from.

Remove

door

stop

on bottom edge

the hinge side and reinstall

opposite

side in the

original handle

holes

Now

move

handle

and all

parts

to the

opposite

end

of the freezer

door

and

reinstall

reversing

steps

above.

NOTE: Make

sure

spacer

pad is in

proper position.

Slide black

trim

over

metal

bracket

and black

gasket

which

positioned

under

metal

bracket.

Reversing

refrigerator

door.

Remove grille f rom bottom of

refrigerator

by simply

grasping

both

ends

and

pulling

forward.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

2-10

19. With

grille now removed,

you have

access to the bottom

hinge. Remove

screw

from the

side of the hinge cover.

20. From the opposite side of cabinet,

remove

screw, removing trim

cap.

21. Remove

bottom hinge

using aTorx-T?7

drive

and move to the

opposite side of

cabinet and reinstall

using

the

same

screws.

22. Reinstall

the trim

cap and hinge

cover

on the

opposite sides.

23. Now take refrigerator

door and remove

screw from the

trim cap located

on the

bottom

the

door,

24. Slide

black trim

off

metal

door

bracket.

25.

Remove

screw holding metal

bracket

at the bottom

of the door, and the

screw located in the

center of the

door

just

underneath the

handle.

26. Remove

two

(2)

screws holding handle

to top

of door.

Now remove the

plugs

from

opposite

side of

door

taking

the

same caution in

removal

you

did for the treezer

door.

Remove

two

(2)

screws securing

door

stop. Reinstall on the

opposite side.

27.

28.

2-11

29. Just as

you

did above for the

treezer

door, move

all of the

handle

and trim

parts

to the

opposite side of the

door and

reinstall.

This

done by reversing

the

steps

above.

NOTE:

Care

must

once

again be

taken

to make

sure

all

spacer

pads

are

returned

their

proper position.

30. Reinstall

plugs

into

screw

holes

exposed

on the right

hand

side

of the

door.

31. Reinstall the refrigerator

door.

Lower refrigerator

door

so socket on bottom

fits

onto the

on bottom

hinge

bracket.

sure washer is in

place.

Tilt

door towards

cabinet

and

gently

push

door

under

center

hinge

bracket

and align with the hole

in the

center

hinge

bracket.

Reinstall hinge

with

5116"

socket and rachet

so it extends

through

hole

center

hinge

bracket

and into

bracket on top

of refrigerator

door.

32. Reinstall

the freezer

door. Lower treezer

door

so socket

on bottom

f its

onto the center

hinge

pin. Be

sure washer is

place.

Tilt

door towards

cabinet, lifting

the

top hinge

so the

fits

into the

socket

on top of the

door.

Tighten

the top hinge

screws

after supporting

the

door

on the handle

side and

aligning

the

gap

between the

door is

even

all across the

front.

2-12

DOOR REMOVAL

Side-By-Side

Models

Only

Unplug Refrigerator. lf unit is in use,

remove food from the f resh food

com

partment

and

f reezer compartment.

Removing

Freezer Door

Remove grille from bottom of

refrigerator by

pulling

out at bottom

grille

to disengage.

From behind

the hinge on

the treezer

side, disconnect

water line and

electrical

connection

at the connector

plug

if the

unit

has an ice

and

water

fountain.

Remove hinge cover f rom top of

lreezer door hinge by removing screw.

Remove three

(3)

screws

from hinge.

With assistance from someone else

support the treezer door, remove

bottom hinge by

first removing screw

from side of hinge

cover

and remove

cover.

Pull wires and water line through

opening

in refrigerator

frame.

7. Remove bottom hinge using a

Torx-I27 drive. lf necessary.

Tilt lreezer door forward and pull

away.

NOTE:

Use

extreme care as

the hinge

will remain attached

to the water line

and wires on

those

units

having an

ice

and water fountain.

Removing Refrigerator

Door

1. Remove hinge cover f rom top of

refrigerator door hinge by removing

screw.

Remove

three

(3)

screws

from

hinge.

Tilt refrigerator door

forward

and

lift

door off of

bottom hinge.

Remove bottom hinge by f irst

removing

screw

from side of hinge

cover and remove cover.

Remove bottom hinge using a

Torx-f27 drive.

lf necessary.

To reinstall

both

doors

just reverse steps

above. Be sure to properly

realign both

doors so

they will be even

with

each

other

and easy

open and

close.

2-13

OPERATION

Top Mount Models

Setting Controls

These

models have two

controls. One

for regulating the

temperature in

the fresh

food

compartment and one for the freezer. The fresh food compartment

and the treezer

compartment controls

are

located

at the top front

of the fresh food

compartment.

Turn the

refrigerator control to the number

"5" and

the

freezer control to the

letter

"E"

to start the

refrigerator. Allow refrigerator

to run

about 8 to 12 hours

before loading

with food.

a day

or so, if the consumer

decides that

one

or both compartments

should

be colder or

warmer,

adjust the control(s)

as instructed

in the

charts

below.

To start: Set refrigerator

control

"5"

Set

freezer

control

"E".

Refrigerator

too WARM: Turn

refrigerator

control to next

higher

number.

Refrigerator

too

COLD: Turn

refrigerator

control to

next lower

number.

Freezer

too

WARM: Turn

freezer control

to next higher

letter.

Freezer

too

COLD: Turn

freezer control

to next

lower letter.

Refrigerator OFF: Set ref

rigerator control

on OFF.

2-14

USE OF CONTROLS

MPORTANT: Except when

starting, do not

change

either control more

than one number

a time. ALLOW 24

HOURS FOR TEMPERATURE

STABILIZE BEFORE RESETNNG.

Changing either control will have

some effect on the temperature

of the other

compartment.

The number

"9"

lreezer control

setting

is recommended

for

short term

use ONLY.

Please note:

The refrigerator may run for several

hours

when first

started

up. This is

normal

and shouldn't

be cause for alarm.

Warm

Cabinet Surfaces

times, the front

surfaces of the refrigerator

cabinet

may be warm

to the touch.

This is a

normal function

of the refrigerator,

This feature

prevents

moisture

from

condensing

the

outside of the refrigerator

during

humid

weather.

This condition

may

noticeable

when

you

first

start the refrigerator,

during

hot weather,

and excessive

lenghty

door openings.

Energy

Saver

Control

During

extremely

huinid weather,

moisture

has

a tendency

to collect

on objects that

are

cooler than the

surrounding

air,

just

as droplets

of water accumulate

glass

containing

an iced drink

during a hot

summer day.

The refrigerator

built

exacting

standards and,

therefore,

contains

condensate

driers

that

are designed to minimize

any collection

moisture

the

cabinet

external surface

during

periods

of high

humidity.

lf the consumer lives

in an area of low

humidity, or

one in which

the humidity

considerably lower during certain

seasons,

you can set the switch

to the

"Saves Energy" position

which will

disconnect the condensate

driers and

decrease the amount

of electricity

you

use.

In areas of relatively

high humidity,

set the

switch to the "Reduces

Exterior

Moisture"

position

which

will minimize

any collection

of moisture

on the outside

surface

of the

cabinet.

The indicator

light will

be ON with

the

switch

this

position.

Side-By-Side

Models

Setting

Controls

The

refrigerator

has two

controls.

One for regulating

the temperature

the refrigerator

compartment

and

one for the freezer

compartment.

Both controls

are located

at the

upper

rear

the

refrigerator

compartment,

just

below the light

shield.

2-15

start

the refrigerator,

"6"

. Let

the

relfrigerator

set

the refrigerator

run at least 8

to 12 control on

"D"

and

set

the

hours before loading it withfreezer control

food.

ln a day or so, if the consumer

warmer,

adjust

the

controls(s)

decides

that one

or both compartments should be colder

instructed in

the charts below,

To start: Set refrigerator control

"D".

Set f reezer control

"6".

Refrigerator too WARM: Turn refrigerator control

next higher

letter.

Refrigerator too

COLD: Turn refrigerator control to next lower

letter.

Freezer

too WARM: Turn

freezer

control to

higher number.

Freezer too

COLD. Turn freezer control to next lower number.

Refrigerator

OFF: Set refrigerator

control

on OFF.

2-16

USE

OF CONTROLS

IMPORTANT:

Except when

starting, DO NOT

change either

control more than

one letter

one number

at a time. Allow 24

hours tor temperature

to stabilize betore resetting.

To turn

off

the

refrigerator,

set the refrigerator

control

on OFF.

Warm

Cabinet Surfaces

At times,

the front

surfaces of the refrigerator

cabinet may

warm

to the touch.

This is

normal

function

the

refrigerator. This

feature

prevents

moisture from

condensing

on the

outside

the refrigerator

during

humid

weather.

This condition

may

noticeable

when

you

first start the

refrigerator,

during hot weather,

and excessive

or lengthy

door openings.

2-17

-l

MITYTAG SECTION 3

SERVICE

PROCEDURES

GENERAL INFORMATION

TOP MOUNT

MODELS

FORCED AIR

SYSTEMS

On all forced air models,

an air circulating fan

draws cold

air

from

around the evaporator

and directs it

the fresh food

and treezer

compartments. A

carefully measured amount

chilled

air

directed into the fresh food

compartment

through a baffle

maintain the de-

sired fresh food

compartment temperature.

The

greater

part

of chilled air is directed into

the freezer

compartment to maintain

freezer temperature.

Forced

air models use

a fan

cooled

condenser. The

evaporator

automatically

defrosted

every six or eight hours

compressor run time

depending

the

model. Defrosting

is accomplished by

a defrost

heater

activated by

timer.

The

accumulated moisture is

drained into

a defrost

pan

located

in the compressor

area of the

cabinet.

REFRIGERATION

CYCLE

HEATEXCHANGER - --- - cAptLLARy

I ols

rrex

pREssuRE

ffi rrouro-xrot

pREssuRE

CONDE NSER

3-1

EVAPORATION OF ICE CUBES (rop

Mount

& side-By-side

Moders)

Since

ice

cubes have a moisture

vapor

pressure

above them,

the vapor

constantly

being

picked

up in the

dry air stream

and deposited

on the

evaporator.

This

physical

change

known

"sublimation",

is the

changing

of a solid to

a vapor

without

going

through liquid

state. In

forced

air treezer

compartment,

this

action will

be readily

noticed

by a customer

who

does

not

use ice cubes

with regularity.

AIR

FLOW. FORCED

AIR

SYSTEMS

Top

Mount Models

The

balance

between the

air flow

into the fresh

food

and Ireezer

compartments

an im-

portant

factor in

maintaining

proper

compartment

temperatures

forced

air

refrigeration

system.

A baffle is used

to regulate

the

amount of

chilled

air directed

into

the fresh

food

compartment.

a colder treezer

compartment temperature

desired,

the

baffle is

adjusted

so that less

air is directed

into the

fresh food

compartment.

This

causes

the

compressor

run longer

since the

compressor thermostat

sensing

element is

located

in the fresh

food

compartment.

Cold

air is

drawn through

the fin

and tube

evaporator

and

into

the

fan.

A portion

of the

air

deflected

into the f

resh food

compartment

where

absorbs heat

and returns

to the

f in

and

tube

evaporator

through

ports

in the

top

of the fresh

food

compartment

Most

of the

air

moving

through the

fin

and tube

evaporator,

however,

blown through

the

freezer

air tun-

nel

and

circulated

throughout

the freezer

compartment

and back

across

the fin

and tube

evaporator

where

it starts

another

cycle.

-r' - -l \\

3-2

SIDE-BY-SIDE

MODELS

Side-By-Side

models

are

manufactured with a single evaporator.

They are automatically

defrosted by a radiant heater working in conjunction with an

electric

timer.

They have a fan cooled condenser

with the fan

dissipating condenser heat and aiding in the

evaporation of defrost water that collects in

the

defrost

pan.

A forced

air system

used

to distribute

chilled air

throughout the

lreezer and fresh food

compartments

thus

utilizing a single evaporator. A

temperature

control and baffle

system

are

used

control

the amount of chilled air distributed to

each compartment, Both of the

controls are

located in the fresh food compartment. The temperature

control is used to en-

ergize

the

compressor.

The

baffle

mechanism regulates the flow

of chilled air

between

the

freezer compartment

and

the fresh food compartment.

The drawing illustrates the air flow system typical to the

Side-By-Side

models.

"i----

L--'

1"-'

rFR

:. :IGAS-HIGH

PRESSURE

liiEJ L|OUD-H|GH PRESSURE

YODER

CONDT

3-3

AIR

FLOW

Side-By-Side

Models

The evaporator is mounted behind the

cover at the rear

of the freezer

compart-

ment. A circulating fan is mounted near

the top of the compartment, directly

above

the

evaporator. This fan

draws air up over

the evaporator and discharges it against

a dispersing shield, mounted in front

the fan. As the air hits the dispersing

shield, the air is deflected in three

di-

rections. The cold air circulates to the

bottom of the freezer

compartment,

ab-

sorbing heat and moisture from

the

pack-

ages

stored on the shelves. lt is then

drawn up into the evaporator atea to

again

repeat the

cycle,

DISPERSING

SHIELD

Because

the evaporator

is the coldest

surface in the

treezer,

all moisture in the

compartment forms

on its

surfaces.

After

eight hours

of accumulated

compressor

running

time, the

evaporator

is automat-

ically

defrosted

and the water

drains into

tray

in the machine

compartment.

The

amount

of air being moved in each

direction

in the drawing is broken

down

as follows:

1. The

greatest

volume

of air is

blown out

the

opening

at the bottom of the

dis-

persing

shielc.

2. Part

the

chilled air is

blown over the

top

the

dispersing

shield.

3. A small

portion

of the chilled

air is

forced through

a side

opening into the

ref ri

gerator

com

partment.

The

air being moved in

each direction is

depending

somewhat

on the setting of the

treezer

baffle control, For

example: lf the

baffle control is turned

to the

closed

posi-

tion

(coldest),

a greater

volume

of chilled

air will circulate throughout

the treezer

compartment.

However, because the

sensing

element

that

controls the com-

pressor

operation is located

in the refri-

gerator

compartment, the

compressor will

operate for a longer

period

of time, re-

sulting in colder lreezer

temperatures

and

the

desired fresh food

compartment tem-

peratures.

Conversely, if the

treezer

baffle

in the

open

position,

air will flow

into the refrigerator

compartment,

thus

satisfyinQ the

sensing

element sooner

and

reducing

the compressor

run time consid-

erably.

This naturally

results in warmer

freezer temperatures.

The refrigerator

compartment is

cooled by

the

air

passing

through

the freezer

baffle

control

and then circulating throughout

the

refrigerator

compartment. Return

air from

this compartment

is drawn

through an

opening near

the bottom, where

it again

passes

through the

evaporator coil to

start

the

cycle again.

3-4

I-.l

CHECKING OPERATIOT\f - (A'

Moders)

The following

general information

ex-

plains

several

method for

checking oper-

ation of the refrigeration

system. This

information

applies to all systems

covered

this manual.

The

correct operation

of a refrigeration

system is dependent upon the proper

functioning

of each of the

parts

comprising

the system. lf the

system does

not operate

properly

(long

run

periods,

warmer than

normal

temperatures),

the trouble

may be

caused

by one of the following

conditions.

RESTRICTED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

The

opening

of a capillary

tube is about

the

same

diameter as the period

at the

end of this

sentence. This

should indicate

that

it doesn't

take much

to restrict

this

tube. lt should also tell

you

to use care

when any service procedures

involve

moving

touching

the

capillary

tube. A

very

slight

kink

can

cause

a complete re-

striction

the tube.

Restrictions

of the

capillary tube

may be

caused

by:

(1)

moisture

freeze-up,

(2)

tor-

eign

particles

lodged

in the tube,

or (3)

bend

kink.

lf the

capillary tube

is restricted,

there

will

a noticeable

lack of frost

all of the

cooling

surfaces; the

compressor

may

op-

erate for

a short

period

of time

and then

cycle

on the

overload. Because

some mo-

dels can hold the entire

charge in the

condenser,

the compressor

may run con-

tinuously

and

definite

vacuum

will be no-

ticed in the low side. When moisture

freeze-up

causes

a restriction,

it usually

occurs

at the

outlet

end of the

capillary

tube.

Normally,

a frost

build-up

can be

detected in this area, but insulation

wrapped

around the

tubing may

conceal

or limit the

amount

of frost

accumulation.

Expose

the discharge

end of the capillary

and apply heat

at this point.

lf there

enough head pressure,

and if the re-

striction

is caused

by moisture

freeze-up,

you

will

be able to

hear a gurgling

noise

as the heat releases the ref

rigerant

through the

tubing.

It is

possible

that this

moisture will

be ab-

sorbed

by the

drier and remedy the

trou-

ble. However, if the

freeze-up recurs,

you

must replace

the drier.

A kink in the capillary

tube will reveal

about the same symptom

as a moisture

freeze-up

except for the

accumulation

frost.

Check the

entire length

the

capil-

lary

tube and, if possible,

straighten the

kink to relieve the

restrictions.

Check the

unit operation to see if you

have helped

the situation. lf the trouble

persists,

re-

place

the

defective

part.

lf the freeze-up

condition

does not

exist

and

there

is not

a kink,

you

can

assume

that

a foreign

particle

is causing the re-

strictions

the

only remedy

in this

case

to replace

the restricted

part.

PARTIAL RESTRICTION

IN LOW

SIDE

TUBING

Bent tubing,

foreign

matter,

or moisture in

the

system may

cause

a partial

restriction

the low

side tubing. This

is usually

in-

dicated

by frost-free

tubing

between the

restriction

and the

capillary

tube

and by

f rost-covered

tubing between the re-

striction

and the suction line. The re-

striction

acts like

a second

capillary tube,

increasing

the pressure ahead of it

(warming)

and decreasing the pressure

beyond it (cooling).

To confirm

the

exist-

ence

of a restriction

in the low

side tubing,

perform

operational

pressure

checks.

3-5

SLOW LEAK IN SYSTEM

On forced air

models, long run time will

be noticed during the early

stages of a

leak. As the refrigerant

continues

to es-

cape, both compartments

will gradually

warm up and the compressor will run

continuously.

The freezer will probably

warm

first.

INCORRECT REFRIGERANT

CHARGE

The

sealed unit

may

have too much refri-

gerant

(overcharged

system) or too little

refrigerant

(undercharged

system). The

following

paragraphs

will inform

you

how to recognize

system

with these

de-

fects.

An overcharged system may

have a frost

back condition

appearing outside the in-

sulation

sleeve on the

suction line

the

cabinet

rear.

When the

compressor

stops,

the frost

melts

and drips on the floor.

heat

exchanger

separation will

also cause

this

symptom.

An undercharged

system depending

the

degree

of undercharge,

will operate

with temperatures

above normal

and the

compressor

run time

will be increased.

The

greater

the

undercharge,

the higher

the temperature

will

and

the longer

the

run

time.

undercharged

system must

purged,

evacuated,

and recharged

with the

proper

amount

of refrigerant.

Before recharging,

however,

test for

refrigerant leaks.

DEFECTIVE

COMPRESSOR

A compressor which is not

pumping

ade-

quately

will not

cool effectively.

All cool-

ing

surfaces

may be covered

with a thin

film

frost,

but the

temperature will

not

descend to the

cut-out temperature

of the

control, even

with continuous

running

the

compressor.

Because these

symptoms

are similar to

refrigerant leak, it is advisable to thor-

oughly leak

test

this

point.

lf no leak

indicated,

install

gauges

and check the

operating

pressures.

lf the

high side

pres-

sures are lower

than those

specified,

and

low side

pressures

are higher than

speci-

fied,

suspicions of

an inefficient

compres-

sor will

be confirmed

and the compressor

must be replaced.

PRESSURE

UNLOADING IN

SYSTEM

The

compressor may

stall

and cycle on

the overload

protector

if an attempt is

made

to restart the

unit immediately

after

it has

stopped. This

because

the refri-

gerant

pressure

high

on the condenser

side and low on the

evaporator

side. When

the

compressor

stops running, the liquid

slowly

passes

through

the capillary tube

and the

pressures

are said to be

"unload-

ing". Pressure

unloading in the system

may

take from

6 minutes.

PULL

DOWN

OVERLOAD

lf the cabinet

compartments

are warm

when the compressor starts, the "pull

down" may temporarily

overheat the

compressor

and cause

cycling on the ov-

erload

protector.

3-6

LEAK TESTING

The following

general information

ex-

plains

several methods

of checking the

refrigeration

system

for

leaks. This infor-

mation

applies to all systems covered in

this

manual.

lf there

is an undercharge

of refrigerant

and the system has not been recently

opened, there is probably

a leak in the

system. In that

case, it would

be only a

temporary

solution to add ref

rigerant

without

first locating

and repairing

the

leak

since

adding refrigerant

will not

per-

manently

correct the difficulty.

The leak

must

located

and repaired

possible,

after which

the

entire system must

re-

charged

with the

proper

amount of refri-

gerant. Whenever

a new charge of

refrigerant

added, it is

necessary

to in-

stall

new

drier.

Any

leak, regardless

of its

size, must

located

before

you

can

determine the

op-

erative

status

of the

system

components.

not replace

a component

because the

system is short

of refrigerant

unless

non-repairable

leak

is found.

lf your

analysis

indicates

a leak, find it

before

opening the

system.

You

are more

likely

to pinpoint

the leak before

dis-

charging

than if the surrounding

air is

contaminated

with ref

rigerant

f rom a

newly

opened

system.

The

presence

of oil

around a tubing

joint

usually indicates

a leak,

but don't let this

be the determining

factor.

Always

check

the area with

leak

detector

to make

sure.

To simplify leak

detection, keep

the sys-

tem

pressurized

a minimum

of 75 P.S.l.

This is

easily

accomplished

for high

side

testing

by merely running

the

compressor.

pressurize

the low

side,

allow the en-

tire

system to warm

up to room temper-

ature.

Often

enough

refrigerant

may have

es-

caped to make it impossible

to raise

the

pressure

enough to leak

test effectively.

cases of this nature,

clamp a piercing

valve to the

compressor

process

tube and

add enough refrigerant

to conduct the

test.

Leak

testing with

a Halide

torch is consid-

ered satisfactory in most

cases, but for

accurate testing,

we recommend

the

use

of a Dielectric

Differential Leak

De-

tector.

This transistorized

model reduces

the

guesswork

in leak

testing

because it is

more sensitive,

faster responding,

and

capable

of detecting

a leak

even

though

the

surrounding

air is

contaminated.

The

leak

gun provides

an audible indication

a refrigerant

leak.

3-7

LEAK

TESTING

YODER

LOOP

The following

general information

ex-

plains

several

methods

used

in leak

test-

ing the

yoder

loop.

The

yoder

loop is

routed

in the front

cabi-

net

flange at

the top and

sides.

The

yoder

condenser

loop warms

the front

the ca-

binet

and

thus

reduces

the formation

condensation

on the cabinet

front. By

transferring

heat

to the cabinet

front, the

loop helps cool

the condensing

system.

Since

the

yoder

condenser

loop cannot

reached

for leak

testing, it

is impossible

check

in the normal

manner.

Instead,

must be disconnected

from the system

and

checked

separately.

NOTE: BE SURE

A LEAK IS

NOT PRESENT

IN ANY EXTERNAL

TUBING OR

JOINT

BE-

FORE

PERFORMING

THE FOLLOWING

TESTS.

USING

PRESSURE

METHOD

To test for leaks

in the

yoder

loop

tubing,

a pressurized

test using

the following

equipment

is required,

A. An access

fitting.

B. A cylinder

of dry

nitrogen.

C. Pressure

regulator.

D. One

gauge.

E. Line valve

and tubing.

The

access

fitting should

prepared

follows:

1. Solder

the

copper tubing

(C)

to the

adaptor

(A).

2. Assemble

all

parts

the

"brass

tee"

(B) using

a sealant

such

as "Leak

Lock"

to assure a

leak-tight

joint.

3. Seal

the end of the copper

tube bY

crimping

and silver-soldering.

SOLDER

ADAPTER

N,IALE

PIPE @

/8" MIPT

x 1/4"

filSAE

WITH SCHFADER

VALVE

VALVECAP @ \

A\\

\y\\

tf trfft

Apply 200 lbs. pressure at the

Schr.ader

valve and leak test

the ac-

cess fitting

with a soap

solution.

there

is no leak,

cut the crimped

end

off

the

tube

(C).

PRESSURE

REGULATOR

LINE

VALVE .\

TESTING

YODER

LOOP

Top Mount Models

1. Disconnect unit

f rom

power

source.

2. Install a service

valve on the

process

tube

and vent

the refrigerant

outside.

GAUGES

3-8

3. Unsolder

the yoder loop tubing

points

"A"

and

"8".

Top

Mount

Crimp and solder the

yoder

tubing at

point

"A".

Solder the special access

fitting

tube removed

point

"8".

Pressurize the

system

250 lbs. with

the dry nitrogen. Leak test the

joint,

using a soap solution.

Check the

pressure

gauge.

lf the

pres-

sure decreases,

a leak

exists. lt may

be necessary to

allow up to 24 hours

pass

in order to

determine this. lf

leak

does

not

exist, reconnect the tub-

ing,

evacuate and recharge

the sys-

tem.

lf the

yoder

loop is

leaking, a special

kit can

ordered

for installing

a re-

sistance heater wire. Complete in-

structions are included with the

kit. lt

is not necessary to leave

the refriger-

ator inoperative while

you

order the

kit. You should reconnect

the system

excluding the

yoder

loop as follows:

Install

new

drier. lnstead

of connect-

ing it

point

"A",

connect it to

point

"B". This will

exclude the

yoder

loop

from the refrigerant

system.

9. Evacuate

and recharge the system.

10.

Leak test

all

tubing

joints

and test run

the refrigerator.

11. Pinch

the process

tube

and cut the

service valve

off

the tubing.

Solder the

joint

and check

for leaks.

TESTING

YODER

LOOP

Side-By-Side Models

1. Disconnect

unit f rom

power

source.

2. Install

a service valve on the

process

tube

and

vent

the refrigerant

outside.

3. Unsolder the yoder loop tubing

points

"A"

and

"8". (see

drawing).

4. Crimp and solder the

yoder

tubing

point

"A".

5. Solder the special

access

fitting

tube

removed at

point

"8".

6. Pressurize the

system to 250 lbs.

with

the

dry nitrogen. Leak test the

joint

using

soap

solution.

7. Check the pressure

gauge. lf the

pressure

decreases, a leak exists.

may

be necessary

to allow up to 24

hours

to pass

in order to determine

this.

lf a leak does not

exist, reconnect

the

tubing, evacuate

and recharge the

system.

the

yoder

loop is leaking,

a special

kit

can be ordered for

installing

a resistance

heater wire. Complete instructions

are

included

with the kit. lt is

not necessary

to leave the refrigerant

inoperative

while

you

order the kit. You

should reconnect

the

system

excluding the

yoder

loop.

exclude the

yoder

loop,

connect com-

pressor

discharge

line directly to

conden-

ser by connecting the tubing

point

"A"

point

"8",

Suction

Tube

3-9

8. lnstall

a new drier.

9. Evacuate

and recharge the

system.

10. Leak test

all

tubing

joints

and test run

the refrigerator.

moved

without disturbing the refrigerant

charge.

When

using

gauges

to check

operating

pressures,

observe these

precautions.

1. Make

sure the

gauges

are

accurately

calibrated.

When not

connected into a

system, the

gauge pointers

should in-

dicate

0 pressure.

lf necessary,

turn

the recalibrating

screw on the

dial un-

til the

pointer

at 0.

a. HIGH

SIDE

- near

normal

pressure

LOW

SIDE

- lower

pressure

(pos-

sible vacuum)

WATTAGE

- lower

than normal

The

evaporator

tube

or other low side

tubing

is probably

restricted

(kinked

or blocked with foreign

particle).

This

condition is

usually accompanied

with

frost

build-up

on the low

side of the

restriction,

and high

side

pressures

will not unload

and balance with the

low

side within

the

prescribed

7 to 10

minutes after the compressor is

stopped.

b, HIGH SIDE

lower

pressure

LOW SIDE

slightly lower

pressure

WATTAGE

- lower

than normal

These results

usually

indicate a leak

in the high

side of the

system. Both

gauges

will show

progressively

less

pressure

as more refrigerant

escapes.

c. HIGH

SIDE

much higher

pressure

LOW

SIDE

slightly lower

pressure

WATTAGE

- higher

than normal

These

gauge

readings

usually

indicate

a leak

in the low

side

the

system.

High

side

pressures

will continually

increase

since air drawn in through

the

leak collects

and becomes trapped

the high

side tubing. The

low side

gauge

may

show a

slight

pressure

be-

cause of the air being drawn in

through

the leak.

Process

Tube Discharge

Tube Side-By-Side

Suction

Tube

11. Pinch the process

tube and cut the

service valve

off the

tubing.

Solder

the

joint

and check

for leaks.

CHECKING PRESSURES

lf the

refrigeration

system is not

operating

properly,

check the operating

pressures.

Install

piercing

valve

on the compressor

process

tube.

NOTE: The only time

you should

use a

piercing

valve

is to

check

pressures.

the

system is operating

properly, pinch

off

between the valve

and

the compressor.

The refrigerant

charge

will not be dis-

turbed.

For high

side

pressures,

install

another

piercing

valve

about 6 inches

from the

compressor

on the

discharge line.

How-

ever,

you will have

to evacuate

and re-

charge the

system,

since the valve

must

not

be left

on the tubing

and cannot

be re-

3-10

d. HIGH SIDE

lower

pressure

LOW SIDE

- in vacuum

WATTAGE

- lower than

normal

The system is probably

restricted

the

entrance of the

capillary tube. High

side

pressures

will take much longer

than

the

prescribed

7 to

10 minutes to

unload and balance with

the low side

after the compressor is

stopped.

e. HIGH

SIDE

higher

pressure

LOW SIDE

near normal

pressure

WATTAGE

higher than normal

These

findings indicate

air

in the

sys-

tem.

This is usually

the result

of a low

side leak

being repaired

without the

system

being

thoroughly

purged

and

evacuated

before

recharging.

confirm the

existence

of air in

the

system, check the temperatures

of the

condenser inlet

hnd outlet. During

normal

operation,

the outlet

should be

from

15 to 20

degrees

colder than the

inlet. lf these

temperatures

not

vary

at least 15

degrees, the

presence

of air

almost certain.

Simply

purging

the

air

from the

system

is not

practical.

This

may result in

the

system

being

undercharged

due

the

loss of ref rigerant.

Purge, replace

drier,

evacuate,

and

recharge

the

sys-

tem.

f. HIGH

SIDE

higher

pressure

LOW

SIDE

- higher

pressure

WATTAGE

higher than

normal

These

gauge

readings

usually indicate

an overcharge

of refrigerant.

The

ex-

tent

of the

pressure

increase

depends

on the amount

overcharge and room

temperature.

slight overcharge

may

not

cause trouble

in 70

degree tem-

peratures

whereas

90 degree tem-

peratures

a considerable

rise in

pressure

will result.

An overcharge

may also cause the

suction line to be frosted

during the

run cycle.

Evacuate

and recharge

the system

overcharged.

g. HIGH

SIDE

lower than normal

LOW

SIDE

higher

than normal

WATTAGE

- lower

than normal

These

results indicate

an inefficient

compressor.

All

cooling surfaces

may

be covered

with

thin

film of frost,

but

the temperature

will not descend to

cut

off

temperature

of the control,

even

with

continuous running.

Also the

con-

denser

will be noticeably

cooler to the

touch than

normal.

Once the confir-

mation

inefficient

compressor is

determined, it

should

be replaced.

3-1

EVACUATING

AND RECHARGING

The

following

general

information

applies

to all systems

covered

this manual.

EVACUATING

Any

time the sealed

system

is opened

and

the refrigerant

charge

removed,

you

must

install a

new service

drier and

thoroughly

evacuate

before

recharging.

Even

though

a complete

evacuation

takes additional

time,

it will save

time

in the long

run.

1. Open

the compressor

low side

proc-

ess

tube as close

to the

pinched

end

as possible.

This will leave sufficient

room

for pinching

off at the conclu-

sion.

2. Install a service

valve on

the

process

tube.

3. Connect

your vacuum

pump

to the

service

valve through a gauge

mani-

fold

as shown.

Leave

the service

valve

closed. Use a

good

vacuum

pump,

one

in which

you

change oil often

for

the

most

eff

icient operation.

4. Start

the vacuum

pump

and open

its

discharge

valve.

Then slowly open

its

suction

valve and the service

valve on

the compressor

process

tube.

CAUTION:

lf you are using an extremely

efficient

vacurlm

pump, just

crack

its suc-

tion valve

for the f irst minute

- then slowly

open it. This

will prevent

the system

oil

from foaming and being drawn into the

pump

in large volume. lf this

should

hap-

pen, the system oil, containing

trapped

refrigerant, will contaminate

your pump,

and, of

course, reduce the amount of

oil

the compressor.

5. Pull

a vacuum for about

20 minutes

this should

give

you

reading of

near

500

microns, or 29.6

inches of vacuum

a compound

gauge.

After

pulling

vacuum for 20

minutes,

you

can close

off

the valve of the

pump

while leaving

the

micron

gauge

in the system.

Then

observe the micron

gauge

(or com-

pound gauge)

for a few minutes.

lf the

reading rises,

you

could

have a leak

the system.

EXTERNAL

VACUUM

PUMP

SYSTEM

COMPRESSOR

GAUGE

MANIFOLD

Close the manifold

valve

"A"

and

stop

the vacuum

pump.

Connect

your

sight

glass

charging

cyl-

inder to the

gauge

manifold and, after

purging

the line, open

valve

"B" and

induce

charge of

refrigerant into the

system

until it is

pressurized

to 35 or

40 P,S.l.G.

Then leak test the

low

side.

After leak testing

the low side,

run the

compressor

for a

few minutes and leak

test the

high

side.

3-12

8. Purge the temporary ref rigerant

charge out the low

side.

This

will help

to remove

moisture from

the system.

Keep in mind that the process

flushing clean refrigerant

through the

system is equivalent

to 20 or 25 min-

utes of pulling

a vacuum with

a vac-

uum pump of lower capacity than

those specified. Therefore,

you can

induce

another temporary

charge and

purge,

you

desire.

9. Repeat the vacuum

pump procedure

for

another 30 minutes

which

should

again

pull

down to about

500 microns

or 29.6 inches

of mercury.

IMPORTANT:

Always

heat

much

of the

system

you

can while

evacuating,

pref-

erably with

a heat

lamp

- not

a torch. Be

careful with the

lamp, however,

to avoid

damaging

any nearby

plastic parts

sys-

tem

parts.

RECHARGING

lt is very essential

that you have the

proper

eguipment

when

charging the

sys-

tem

you

can

be accurate to within

1/4

ounce of refrigerant.

Although there

are

several methods

of charging, we recom-

mend the

use

of a sight

glass

charging

cylinder which is accurate

regardless

the

ambient

temperature.

We recommend

when

using the

vacuum

pump evacuating

procedure,

that you

charge through

the low

side of the

system,

either through the process

tube or the

suction line. Remember,

however,

that

the ref

rigerant should be introduced

slowly. Because

the refrigerant

will

enter

the

system in a liquid

state,

you

should

never run

the

compressor

while

charging.

Wait

at least

5 minutes

after

the

charge

has entered

before starting the

compres-

sor.

1. Connect the hose

of the

charging

cyl-

inder

to the

system through

a gauge

manifold

as shown in previous

draw-

ing.

Close valve

"A"

on the manifold.

2. Open the

charging cylinder

and

purge

the hose.

As soon as the refrigerant

has

stabilized

in the

charging cylinder,

check the

pressure

reading

of the

cyl-

inder

and rotate

the

sleeve

correct

the

setting

for pressure

and the type

refrigerant

being

used.

3. Consult

Section

9 for the amount of

charge needed,

then

open valve

"8".

As you

charge

the system,

you may

notice

some bubbles in

the cylinder.

These

can

be eliminated

by closing

your

service valve

and tipping the

cyl-

inder

upside-down

momentarily.

Then

continue

charging

until the correct

charge has

entered the

system.

any time

you

are required

to raise

the

internal

pressure

of the

charging cylinder,

or if

your

charging

cylinder

does not have

internal

heater,

place

the

cylinder in

bucket

of warm

water

(not

over 125o F).

Never

heat

a charging

cylinder

with

flame.

Such

action

could

cause hydros-

tatic

pressure

to build up to dangerous

levels

and

possibly

cause the

cylinder

rupture

iike

a bomb.

4. When

you

are

sure the

system is

cor-

rectly

charged,

stop the

flow

of refri-

gerant

valve

"B".

Then

pinch

off the

low side process

tube, close the

charging

cylinder

valve,

remove

the

service valve,

and

solder

the

process

tube

closed.

3-13

SEALED

SYSTEM

SWEEP

CHARGE

SERVICING

PROCEDURES

Sealed

system

sweep

charge

processing

is a modified

procedure

different

from the evacu-

ation

method

employing a

vacuum

pump

and

micron

gauge

that

were

used

in the

past.

Through extensive

evaluation,

have

concluded

the

sweep charge

procedure

prop-

erly

done

there should be

no long

term

adverse

affects on

product performance.

significantly

reduces the

amount

of equipment and

time required

properly

complete

sealed

system

repair.

in the

past,

technicians using this sweep

charge

process

must be

thoroughly

familiar

with

brazing

techniques, sealed system

diagnosis and

repair methods.

COMPRESSOR

OPERATIVE

Following is a list

of equipment

needed for sealed system sweep

charge

processing:

Permanent Braze

Type Piercing Valve

Quick

Coupler

Hand Valve with

Valve

Core Depressor

Valve

Core

Removal Tool

Three Foot Charging

Hose

Purge Hose

Heated

Charging Cylinder

Equipped

with Automatic Relief

Valve

Brazing Equipment

Goggles

ffi

'Q':fr-fr

:---Q\ \*1'.

3-14

NOTE: Always use a purge

hose

sufficient

length to discharge

the refrigerant

out of the

work

area

- preferably

out doors. Keep work

area well ventilated

when

purging

or dis-

charging refrigerant. WEAR GOGGLES TO PREVENT

EYE INJURY

when handling

refriger-

ant.

It is important

heated

charging cylinder equipped with

an automatic

pressure

relief

valve

be used to enable charging the

system

properly.

Most charging

cylinders

currently avail-

able have

heaters

or heater

kits available. Never

use an

external heat

source such as

heat

gun

or torch for heating refrigerant in

a charging cylinder.

COMPRESSOR INOPERATIVE

addition

to the

equipment, the following is

needed:

Purge Hose

Temporary

Piercing Valve

NOTE: Instead

a second

purge

hose an additional three foot

charging hose

and

"T"

adapter can

be used to

enable

purging

both access valves

through

a common

purge

hose.

3-15

PROCEDURE

WITH COMPRESSOR

OPERATIVT

Fill

charging cylinder

with

at least 6 ounces more refrigerant than needed for final

charge

of system.

Plug in

charging

cylinder heater to raise

pressure

lbs.

above

ambient

cylinder

pressure.

NOTE:

Maintain but do

not

exceed

this 30

pounds

above ambient

pressure

until system

is charged.

Braze

permanent

access

valve on compressor discharge

line at least 4 inches from

compressor

body

(Steps

1,2

& 3).

STEP

1STEP 2

BRAZE

TUBE

FORM

SADDLE

WITH

TUBE

Leak check

permanent

access valve

with

refrigerant

gas

from top valve

of charging

cylinder connected through

charging hose and hand valve to

access

valve

(Step

4).

Pierce

discharge tubing with access valve, make

certain valve core is installed to

pre-

vent

premature

discharge

refrigerant

(Steps

5 & 6).

STEP

4CHECKSTEP 5 S

FOR

LEAKS

BRAZE

PLACE

SEAL

ONTO STEEL

INSERT

STEEL

PIN INTO

BODY

SCREW CAP ON

BODY TO PIERCE

TUBE.

USE TWO

WRENCHES

TO AVOID

VALVE

FROM

TWISTING

TEP

coor

DOWN

WITH

SEAL

CHECK

VALVE CORE

TO MAKE

SURE

IS TIGHT

STEP

ABRASIVE

CLOTH

3-16

WET

CLOTH

5. Install

hand

valve

and

purge

hose

access

valve.

Route

purge

hose

away

from work

area

- preferably

outdoors.

Slowly

open hand

valve

and

discharge

system

for

5 minutes,

with

compressor

not

running.

On units

with cold freezer

compart-

ments

the

evaporator

can be warmed

aid in

purging,

refrigerant.

This

accomplished

by advancing

the de-

frost timer to energize

the defrost

heaters.

Discharge

system

for

additional

3 mi-

nutes

with

compressor

running,

then

turn

compressor

off. Remove

purge

hose from

charging

hose.

Remove hand valve f rom access

valve.

Remove

valve

core. Perform

the re-

pair.

lnstall

new

replacement

drier.

Connect

charging

hose

to bottom

charging

cylinder.

Attach

hand

vaive

to loose

end of charging

hose.

Purge

charging

hose with

refrigerant

and

hand valve.

12. Attach

hand valve to access

valve.

Charge in

4 oz.

of refrigerant

for leak

check. Close

hand

valve. Wait

ap-

proximately

5 minutes

for

pressure

equalize,

(Leak

check low

side).

13. Run compressor

for 3 minutes

sweep system. (Leak check high

side).

14.

bottom valve

on charging

cylin-

der, slowly release

refrigerant

con-

tained

charging

hose

by loosening

hose

coupler

at charging

cylinder.

Af-

ter

refrigerant

is released,

disconnect

hose

at charging

cylinder

valve.

CAUTION:

keep

refrigerant

away from

fingers

to'

prevent

physical

damage.

15,

Connect

purge

hose to loose

end

charging

hose, slowly open hand

valve

and run compressor

for addi-

tional

5 minutes

while

discharging

oz. sweep

charge.

16. Remove

hand

valve.

Install

valve

core

before turning

compressor

off.

17.

Turn

compressor

off.

18. Replace

charging

hose

on lower

valve

of charging

cylinder,

purge

hose

with

refrigerant

and

hand valve.

10.

11.

3-17

19,

Install

hand

valve

access

valve

and

charge

to factory

specified

charge.

20. Close

hand

valve

and

quickly

remove

it from access

valve. Close

lower

valve

charging

cylinder,

using

hand

valve,

slowly

release

refrigerant

con-

tained

in charging

hose.

21. Put Tef

lon tape on access valve

threads

and install

caP on access

valve. (Use

two wrenches

- one

valve

body,

the

other on

caP.)

22. Wait approximately

5 minutes

for

pressure

to equalize,

then

turn

com-

pressor

and

check

for

refrigeration.

PROCEDURE

WITH

COMPRESSOR

INOPERATIVE

Fill

charging

cylinder

with at least

ounces

refrigerant

than

needed

for final charge

of system. Plug

charging cylinder heater to raise

pressure

to 30

lbs. above

ambient

cyl-

inder

pressure.

NOTE:

Maintain

but

not exceed

this

pound

above

ambient

pressure

un-

til system

is charged.

Braze permanent

access valve on

compressor

discharge

line at least

inches

from compressor

body. (See

page

3-16,

Steps

1,2, & 3.)

Leak

check

permanent

access

valve

with

refrigerant

gas

from

top valve of

charging

cylinder

connected

through

charging

hose

and

hand

valve

to ac-

cess

valve.

(See

page

3-16, SteP

4.)

Pierce

discharge

tubing

with access

valve,

make

certain

valve

core

is in-

stalled to prevent premature

dis-

charge

refrigerant.

(See

page

3-16,

Steps

5 &

6.)

lnstall

temporary

piercing

valve on

compressor

process

stub.

Connect

hand

valve,

charging

hose

and

purge

hose on

discharge

line

ac-

cess

valve.

Connect

purge

hose

the temporary

piercing

valve on

compressor

process

stub.

Route

purge

hoses away

from

work

area

- preferably

outdoors.

NOTE:.

An alternate

method

purging

using

a single

purge

hose

plus

an ad-

ditional

three

foot charging

hose and

"T" adapter

can

be accomplished

connecting

three

foot charging

hose

the discharge

access

valve

and an-

other

three foot

charging

hose

to the

piercing

valve. Connect

both

charging

hoses and

the

purge

hose

to the aP-

propriate

connections

on the "T"

adapter

and

route the open

end

the

purge

hose away

from

the

work area

preferably

outdoors.

3-18

Slowly

open hand

valve

and

tempo-

rary piercing

valve and discharge

system

for

least f ive minutes or

until

refrigerant is

completely

released.

On units with cold freezer compart-

ments

the

evaporator can be

warmed

to aid in purging

refrigerant.

This

accomplished on by advancing

the

defrost

timer to energize

the defrost

heaters.

Remove hand valve

and

purge

hoses.

Remove valve core from discharge

line access valve.

Remove and replace compressor.

When brazing use a heat

sink on

the

discharge line to prevent

damage to

the

"O" ring seal in the access valve

body. Remember to remove the tem-

porary piercing

valve

from the inoper-

ative

compressor

process

stub. Do

not install it on the replacement com-

pressorprocess

stub or suction line.

Install a new replacement drier.

12. Connect

charging

hose to bottom of

charging cylinder.

Attach hand valve

to loose

end of charging hose,

13. Purge

charging hose

with refrigerant

and close hand valve.

14. Attach hand valve to access valve.

Charge in 4 oz. of

refrigerant for leak

check. Close hand valve. Wait ap-

proximately

5 minutes for

pressure

equalize.

(Leak

check

low side.)

Run compressor for 3 minutes to

sweep system. (Leak

check high

side.)

Close bottom

valve

on charging cylin-

der, slowly

release refrigerant con-

tained in

charging

hose by loosening

hose coupler

at charging

cylinder. Af-

ter refrigerant is released, disconnect

hose at charging cylinder valve.

CAUTION: keep refrigerant away

from

fingers to

prevent physical

damage.

Connect

purge

hose to loose end of

charging hose, slowly open hand

valve

and run compressor for addi-

tional 5 minutes while discharging 4

oz. sweep charge.

Remove

hand valve, install valve core

before turning compressor off.

20. Turn

compressor off.

21. Replace charging hose on

lower valve

of charging cylinder,

purge

hose with

refrigerant

and close

hand valve.

15.

16.

17.

18.

10.

11.

19.

3-19

22.

lnstall

hand valve on access

valve and

charge

to factory

specified

charge.

23.

hand

valve and

quickly

remove

it from access valve. Close

lower valve on

charging

cylinder,

using

hand

valve, slowly

release refrigerant contained

in charging

hose.

24.

Put

Teflon

tape on access

valve

threads and install cap on access

valve. (Use

two

wrenches

one on

valve body,

the other

on cap.)

25. Wait

approximately

5 minutes

for

pressure

equalize,

then

turn compressor

on and

check

for

refrigerant.

3-20

MAYTAG SECTION

COMPONENTS

COMPR.ESSON

GENERAL

INFORMATION

The following

general

information explains

how to successfully

replace compressors

for

any model covered

in this manual.

All replacement

compressors

are charged with the correct amount of oil and a holding

charge of either dry

nitrogen

refrigerant.

The holding charge is

your

assurance that the compressor is dry and ready to install.

you

receive

a replacement

compressor

that shows no evidence of a holding charge when

you

cut the lines or remove the

plugs,

return it.

NOTE: A NEW DRYER MUST BE INSTALLED EACH TIME ANY COMPONENT OF

THE

SYS-

TEM IS

OPENED

OR REPLACED.

4-1

REPLACING THE COMPRESSOR

1. Disconnect the unit

from the

power

source,

2. Locate defective

compressor and install a

piercing

valve on the

process

tube.

3. IMPORTANT

CONNECT A HOSE

TO THE PIERCING VALVE

AND

DIRECT IT

OUT OF

DOORS. OPEN

THE VALVE AND RELEASE THE REFRIGERANT.

4. Unsolder

or cut

the refrigerant

tubes as close as possible

to the compressor stubs

making sure there is enough

length

to install the replacement compressor. Clean tubing

in area

be unsoldered or cut.

5. Disconnect

the lead wires from the compressor terminals.

6. Remove retaining

bolts

from

compressor mounts, Remove defective compressor from

cabinet

and

install

rubber

grommets

replacement

compressor.

7. Open compressor

stubs.

Solder a short

piece

tubing to the

process

tube

(approxi-

mately

inches long)

and

install

a service

valve

on the

tube.

8. Install the replacement compressor using the mounting bolts

previously

removed.

9. Connect

the

compressor

leads.

10.

Connect

the refrigerant

tubing

to the

compressor stubs using silfos on copper to copper

joints

and

silver

solder and flux

on steel

to copper

joints.

Locate

and

remove

old drier.

Install new

drier.

The new

drier is installed in the following

manner:

a. Carefully bend

the

old drier and

tubing

away lrom electrical

parts.

b. Use steel

wool

fine

emery

paper

to clean the capillary tube for

a distance of 3

inches from the

original

joints.

c. Use a knife

or file to score the capillary tube

about

inch

from

the

original

joints.

Use

your

fingers to

break the connection.

4-2

Make

an offset

1/2 inch

from the end

the

cap tube to

prevent

it from

penetrating

too far into the

drier.

Cut the inlet tube

the replacement

drier

and use

pliers

snap off

the

scored end.

lnstall the new

drier using silver solder with

the

proper

flux.

11.

Evacuate, leak test

and recharge the

system.

12. Pinch

off the

process

tube

and

remove

the

service valve

and braze the

end shut. Leak

test the

process

tube.

4-3

HEAT EXCHANGER

The following

general

information explains

how

successfully

replace the

heat exchanger

for

any

model

covered

in this manual.

REPLACING

HEAT

EXCHANGER

Top Mount Models

lf a leak is found

in the heat exchanger

that can't be

repaired, or if tests

prove

that

the capillary

tube is restricted,

the heat

exchanger

must be

replaced as follows:

1. Disconnect

the unit from power

source.

2. Install

service

valve

as close as

you

can to the tip of the process

tube.

Connect a hose to the

piercing

valve

and

release the

pressure

outdoors.

3. Remove screws securing

facia (fa-

cade). Remove the

screws

from the

divider

channel. Carefuf ly

pull

the di-

vider out

from

under

the

center

hinge.

4. Pull

and slide

the treezer

chest bottom

out of

the

cabinet.

5. Lift

and

pull

out

the freezer coil cover.

It is very important

that

this cover be

reinstalled exactly as it was originally.

6. Remove the air tunnel from the treezer

back.

7. Disconnect the defrost

heater and

thermostat

wire leads.

8. Lift the treezer coil until

clears

the

foam

drip

tray.

9. Working at the cabinet rear,

remove

the

screws

that retain the wire cover.

Cut

the ties that secure the wire

har-

ness to the heat

exchanger.

10. Cut the heat exchanger at the

point

where rubber

sleeve

is taped.

11.

Straighten

the heat exchanger and

bend

it up about 45 degrees away

f rom

the cabinet at

the

suction seal

plug.

12. Pull the freezer coil and heat exchan-

ger

tubing out

the

cabinet

front.

13. Twist

one bracket

to disengage

eva-

porator

drip tray from evaporator

tub-

ing.

14. Unsolder

the

capillary

tube and the

suction line from the freezer coil.

15.

Clean

the tubing.

Connect

the replace-

ment heat exchanger to the treezer

coil and solder

all the

joints.

Be care-

ful when unsoldering and soldering

the

joints

the treezer

coil

prevent

overheating

the

copper

to aluminum

butt

welds.

16. Visually

check

the joints

for leaks.

Reinstall evaporator drip tray by en-

gaging

brackets

evaporator

tubing.

4-4

17. Transfer

the rubber sleeve

to the re-

placement

heat exchanger and tape

both

ends.

18. Insert the

heat

exchanger

into

the tube

entry hole by

working it through

from

the front of the cabinet.

Push

all

the

way in until

the treezer coil

lines up

with the

foam drip tray.

19.

Working at the rear of the cabinet,

shape

the

heat

exchanger

the

ori-

ginal

was.

20. Clean and connect

the

suction

line

the

suction

stub of the compressor.

21. Cut or unsolder

the old drier.

22. Clean

the tube where the original drier

was connected

and install the new

drier.

1. Disconnect

the unit f

rom power

source.

23. Make an offset

1/2" lrom the end of

the

capillary

tube

and

insert into the new

drier.

24.

Solder

all connections.

Application

f lux is required

when using silver

solder.

25.

Visually

check all soldered

joints

for

leaks. Clean

the flux from the tubing.

Then

evacuate and

recharge the sys-

tem as instructed under

"Evacuating

and

Recharging."

26. Assemble all the

parts

in the reverse

order of removal.

Test run the refrigerator to make sure

it is

operating

properly.

Pinch the

process

tube and cut off

the

service

valve. Solder the

joint

and

test

for leaks.

This will allow easy

pinch-off

after

re-

charging

the

system.

Connect a hose

to the

service

valve

and slowly

release the pressure,

di-

recting

the

hose

outdoors.

Leave the

valve

open.

Unsolder suction

line from the suction

stub of

the

compressor.

27.

28.

REPLACING HEAT EXCHANGER

Side-By-Side Models

a leak is found

in the heat

exchanger

that

can't be

repaired, or if tests

prove

that the

ca-

pillary

tube is restricted, the heat exchanger

must

replaced

follows:

Remove the machine

cover.

Remove the tube clamp

exchanger.

lnstalt

a service valve

possible

to the tip of the

compartment

from the heat

as close as

process

tube.

4-5

Unsolder the

drier

from the

condenser

outlet

tube

and clean the outlet. Re-

move the drier from the

capillary tube

so the tubing assembly

can be

pulled

through the tube

entry opening.

Remove

the

sealer

and

grommet

from

the tubing

entrance at the cabinet

rear. The sealer

and

grommet

must be

retained for replacement.

9. Working inside

the cabinet, remove

the following

items from the lreezer

compartment.

a. The treezer shelves and the

lreezer

basket.

b. lce tray rack,

or ice maker

if so

equipped.

c. The

dispersing

shield from in front

of the lreezer

tan.

d. Freezer

evaporator

cover, and the

treezer

fan

ground

wire.

10.

Disconnect the radiant

heater

and de-

frost thermostat

leads.

1 1. Remove the lreezer evaporator

mounting

screws.

12.

Remove the two

styrofoam

blocks from

the top

corners

of the treezer

evapo-

rator.

These

blocks

must be reinstalled

the

same way as they were before re-

moval.

13.

Pull the

heat

exchanger through

the

tube

entry

opening. Pull

carefully

avoid

tearing the

sponge roll on the

heat

exchanger.

14.

Remove

the

sponge roll from

the heat

exchanger.

Be careful

because this

roll must

be installed

the

replace-

ment

heat

exchanger.

IMPORTANT:

CAUTION MUST

BE TAKEN

TO PROTECT

THE

COPPER

-TO-

ALUMI-

NUM WELDS, WET RAGS WRAPPED

AROUND

THE TUBING

AT THESE

POINTS

WILL

HELP PREVENT

DAMAGE.

IF YOU

SECURE THE FREEZER

COIL AND

TUBING

TO PREVENT

MOVEMENT

THESE

CONNECTIONS,

YOUR POSS/B/I-

ITY

OF DAMAGE

IS FAR

IESS BECAUSE

IT WILL RELIEVE

THE STRA/N THAT

COULD

CRACK A WELD.

4-6

15.

16.

Unsolder

the

heat exchanger tubing

the

points

indicated. This

will free

the

old heat exchanger.

Clean the new

and old

tubing

for a

distance

of about 3 inches around

prospective

joints.

Swedge the compressor end of the

new heat exchanger

suction line to fit

the

compressor

tube.

Install the new

heat exchanger

the

treezer coil

and silver solder the

joints

using the proper

flux.

Flux

must be

wiped off of the tubing

after soldering.

22.

lnstall

the

sponge

roll

the

new heat

exchanger.

Seal both ends

with

butyl

sealer, overwrapped

with tape.

Carefully

push

the heat exchanger

suction line through

the tube entry

hole at the rear

ol the treezer liner.

Connect

the electrical components

disconnected

in Step 10. When install-

ing the radiant

heaters,

dq not touch

the heater

glass. Fingerprints

not

wiped

off could

cause the glass

crack at heater

operating temperature.

Bend the heat exchanger into the

proper position

and solder

the

suction

line to the

compressor. Remember

shape the tubing

so it won't rub

against the

cabinet or other tubing.

Install

the new drier

as instructed un-

der

"Replacing

Drier".

Evacuate

and

recharge

the

system as

instructed

under

"Evacuating

and Re-

charging

Test run

the unit to make

sure

it is

op-

erating

properly.

Pinch

off

the

process

tube

and cut off

the

service valve. Solder the

joint

and

test

for leaks.

Reseal

the heat

exchanger entrance

hole with

butyl

sealer.

Reinstall

the tubing

clamp on the heat

exchanger.

29. Reinstall the

lreezer interior

parts

reverse

order of their removal

Step

30. Reinstall the machine

compartment

cover exactly as it was

before removal

to maintain

proper

air

flow

across the

compressor

and

defrost

water

pan.

19.

20.

21.

27.

28.

24.

23.

25.

26.

17.

18.

4-7

CONDEJVSER

The

following

general

any

model covered

in information

explains

this

manual. how

successfully

replace

the condenser

for

REPLACING

CONDENSER

Top

Mount

Models

IMPORTANT:

THE FOLLOWING

PROCE-

DURE

REQUIRES

THE PLACEMENT

BLOCKS

OR BRACES

UNDER

THE CABI.

NET AND

LAYING THE CABINET

ON ITS

SIDE

IN ORDER

FOR

YOU TO REACH

CERTAIN

BOLTS

AND SCREWS.

WISH

TO EMPHASIZE

THAT YOU SHOULD

MAKE SURE

THE BRACES

ARE POSI-

TIONED FIRMLY

SO THAT

THERE WILL

NO DANGER OF

THE CABINET

FALLING

ON YOUR

HANDS.

1. Remove all loose items from the

ref

gerator

i nterior.

2. Remove

the

grille

and defrost

pan.

3. Working

at the rear of the cabinet,

remove the black

insulated cover

from

the machine compartment.

lt is

necessary to reinstall this cover after

the

job

completed.

4. lnstall a service

valve as close as

possible

to the

tip

the

process

tube

to allow easy pinch off after

recharging

the system.

5. Connect

a hose

to the service

valve

and release

the pressure,

directing

the

hose outdoors.

6, Unsolder the condenser

joint as

shown. When unsoldering and

soldering

the

joints,

make sure

not to

over heat the

rubber sleeve

in the fan

motor shroud.

Facing

the rear of

the

cabinet,

lay the

cabinet down

on its left

side

with a

block of

wood under

the top edge.

Remove the screws

as shown

below.

Carefully

pull the compressor

rails

out.

4-8

10. Remove the

condenser

screws.

11.

Disconnect

the fan

motor

wire leads

from the

compressor

terminals.

12. Remove

the

condenser

assembly from

the

compressor

mounting

rails

and

set

a workable

surface.

13.

Remove

the

screws

which

secure

the

fan

motor

shroud to

the

condenser.

14.

Transfer

all clips

to the replacement

condenser

and make sure that the

condenser

tubing

goes

through

the

rubber sleeve on the fan motor

shroud. Install

the

screws.

15.

Set the replacement

condenser

on the

compressor

mounting

rail

and install

the

screws.

16. Clean the condenser

tubing and

connect

the

discharge

line

the inner

tubing.

Connect

the

yoder

loop

to the

other

tube

of the

condenser.

17.

Cut

and install

the new

drier.

When

inserting

the

cap tube,

do not

allow

than

112 inch

of the

cap tube

penetrate

the

drier.

18.

Solder all the

joints.

Silver

solder

and

proper

flux

should

be used

on copper

to steel

or steel to steel

joints.

Flux

should

be wiped

off the tubing

after

soldering.

19.

Visually

check the

joints

for leaks.

20.

Connect

the fan

motor

wire leads

to the

compressor

terminals.

21. Install

the

screws removed

Step 8.

22. Lift the refrigerator

to its normal

upright

position.

23. Evacuate,

recharge and leak test

system.

24.

Test run

the

refrigerator

make

sure

it is

operating

properly.

25.

Pinch

the

process

tube

and cut

off the

service

valve.

Solder

the

joint

and test

for

leaks.

REPLACING

CONDENSER

Side-By-Side

Models

IMPORTANT:

THE FOLLOWING

PROCE-

DURE

REQUIRES

THE PLACEMENT

BLOCKS

OR BRACES

UNDER

THE

CABI-

NET IN

ORDER FOR

YOU

REACH

CER.

TAIN

BOLTS

AND

SCREWS.

WISH

EMPHASIZE

THAT

YOU

SHOULD

MAKE

SURE

THE BRACES

ARE POSITIONED

FIRMLY

SO THAT

THERE

WILL

BE NO

DANGER

THE

CABINET

FALLING

YOUR

HANDS.

1. Disconnect

the unit f rom power

source.

Disconnect

the

condenser

fan

ground

wire.

2. Remove

the machine

compartment

cover.

4-9

3. Place a three inch block

under

front of the cabinet.

Remove

the

unit

rail mounting screws.

Remove the rear mounting

screw

from

the

air divider baffle.

Remove the

inch

block

from the front

of the

cabinet

and

place

it under

the

rear of the cabinet.

Remove the

screws and clamps mounting

the

compressor base

pan.

Remove the screw holding the

condenser

leg

the

right end.

Remove the relay

and overload from

the compressor, but leave the wires

connected

to the

terminals.

Install service valve as close as

possible

the tip of the

process

tube.

This will allow

easy pinch

off after

recharging the

system.

Connect a hose to the service

valve

and slowly release the pressure,

directing

the hose outdoors.

Leave the

valve open.

10. Clean the discharge

tubing for a

distance

of about

inches

the

points

you

intend

to cut or unsolder. Cut or

unsolder the discharge line.

11. Remove the

screws

f rom the top of the

condenser. and

from the back of the

condenser.

12. Remove the

tubing clamps

from the top

and bottom of the fan shroud.

13. Remove the

condenser from

the

fan

shroud.

Set the replacement

condenser

assembly in place

and secure

with

the

screws

removed in

Step

11.

Silver solder

the

discharge line to its

respective condenser line.

lnstall the new drier as instructed

under

"Replacing

Drier".

Reassemble the high

side unit

in the

machine

compartment

in the reverse

order

the removal

procedure.

Evacuate,

leak test, and recharge the

system as instructed under

"Evacuating

and Recharging".

Reinstall the ground wires where

removed.

Reinstall the machine compartment

cover exactly as

it was

before

removal

so that

proper

air flow is maintained

across the compressor

and defrost

pan.

Test run the refrigerator to make sure

it is

operating

properly.

the

two

14.

15.

16,

17.

18.

19.

20.

21.

4-10

FREEZER EVAPORATOR

REPLACING FREEZER

EVAPORATOR

Top

Mount Models

1. Disconnect

the unit from power

source.

2. Remove

the shelf divider

from the

treezer

compartment.

3. Install

a service valve

close as

you

can to the tip of the process

tube,

connect a hose and release the

pressure

outdoors.

Remove

six (6) screws from the

divider

channel

(one

at each

end and

four

(4)

along the

bottom

). Carefully

pull

the divider

out from

under the

center hinge.

Slide the plastic

lreezer

chest bottom

all the way

out of the

cabinet.

Lift the

styrofoam

coil

cover out. lt is

important

that

this

cover be returned

exactly as it was when you

reassemble

the

model.

Remove

the

air tunnel

from the treezer

back.

Disconnect

the wire leads from the

radiant

heater

and the termination

thermostat.

Remove

the radiant

heater

and the

termination

thermostat

from

the coil.

Disconnect

the

ground

wire from

the

drip

trough

tray.

Lift

the lreezer

coil unit

until it clears

the foam

drip tray.

Working

at the

cabinet rear,

remove

the

screws

and the

wire

cover.

Cut the

12.

13.

plastic

ties that secure the wiring

harness

to the heat

exchanger.

Unsolder

the suction line from the

compressor,

and the capillary

tube

from

the old drier. Remove

the old

drier.

Straighten the bottom

of the heat

exchanger

and bend it up about

degrees away from

the

cabinet back.

CABINET

REAR

14.

Pull the

evaporator

all the way

out of

the

cabinet

front

and set it

a more

workable

surface.

10.

11.

---1-----l

=)---------i

4-11

15.

16.

17.

19.

20.

21.

Twist one bracket to disengage

evaporator

drip

tray

from

evaporator

tubing.

Unsolder

the capillary

tube and the

suction

line

from

the

freezer

coil.

Clean

the tubes

with emery cloth.

Make sure

the cap

tube

not

plugged

before

inserting

it into

the

freezer

coil.

18. Connect

the heat

exchanger

to the

replacement

freezer

coil and solder

all the joints.

When

soldering

the

joints, make sure You Protect

the

aluminum

to copper

joints.

Visually check

the soldered

joints

for

leaks.

Working

at the cabinet

front, carefully

insert

the

heat exchanger

through

the

tube

entry

hole

(in

the cabinet

back)

and

push

it all the way in until

the

treezer coil

properly

lined

with

the

foam drip

tray.

Bend

the freezer

coil

toward the

foam

drip

tray and connect

the

ground

wire

to the drip

trough

tray.

22. lnstall the radiant heater and

termination

thermostat.

Then connect

the

wire leads.

23, Working

at the

rear of

the cabinet,

form

the heat exchanger

as the original

was,

down

the cabinet

back

and

into

the

machine

compartment.

24,

Make a 112" offset

from the.end

the

capillary

tube and

insert

it into

the new

drier.

Install

the

new drier.

Solder

the

joints

and

visually

check

the

joint

for

leaks.

Evacuate,

leak

test and

recharge

the

system.

Test

run the unit

to make

sure it is

operating

properly.

Pinch the

process

tube and

cut off

the

service

valves.

Solder

the

joint

and

test

for leaks.

REPLACING

FREEZER

EVAPORATOR

Side-By-Side

Models

The following general information

explains

how to successfully

replace

the

treezer evaporator

for any side-by-side

model covered

in this

manual.

1. Disconnect

the unit from Power

source.

2. Remove

the machine

comPartment

cover.

3. Remove

the

tube

clamp

from the

heat

exchanger.

4. Install a service

valve as close as

possible

the tip of

the

process

tube.

This will allow

easy

pinch

off

when

recharging

the system.

4-12

14.

Connect

a hose to the service valve

and slowly release the pressure,

directing

the

hose

outdoors.

Unsolder

the suction line from the

suction

tube

the compressor.

Unsolder

the drier

from the

condenser

outlet tube and clean the outlet.

Remove

the drier

from the

capillary

tube

so the

tubing

assembly

can be

pulled

through the

tube

entry opening.

Remove the sealer

and

grommet

from

the tubing entrance at the cabinet

rear. The

sealer and

grommet

must be

retained for replacement,

Working

inside the cabinet,

remove

the following items from the treezer

compartment:

a. The treezer shelves and the

treezer basket.

b. lce tray rack, or ice maker.

c. The dispersing

shield

from in front

of the freezer fan.

d. Freezer coil cover and the fan

ground

wire.

Disconnect the radiant heater and

defrost thermostat

leads.

11. Remove the lreezer

coil mounting

screws.

12,

Remove the two

styrofoam blocks

from

the top corners

of the freezer

coil.

These

blocks must

be reinstalled

the

same way as they were before

removal.

13. Pull the heat

exchanger through the

tube entry opening. Pull

carefully to

avoid

tearing

the sponge roll on the

heat

exchanger.

Remove

the tape and butyl

(rubber)

sealer

from

both ends of the

sponge

roll that

enclosed

much

of the heat

exchanger.

Then

slide

the

sponge roll

toward the

compressor end of the heat

exchanger to prevent

overheating

during soldering operations.

Cut the heat

exchanger suction

line

and

the capillary tube from the

freezer

coil and clean the two ends,

16, Connect the heat

exchanger

to the new

treezer

coil and solder the

joints.

Use

Silfos or

silver solder and

the

proper

flux. Flux must

be wiped off the tubing

after soldering.

17. Slide the sponge roll back to its

original

position

and

reseal

with butyl

sealer

and

tape

at both ends,

18.

Carefully

push

the heat

exchanger

tubing through

the tube entry hole

the

rear of the lreezer liner.

15.

10.

4-13

19. Position

the coil and install the

mounting

screws.

20. Transfer

the radiant heaters

to the

replacement

coil.

When installing

the

radiant

heaters,

do not touch the

heater

glass. Fingerprints

not

wiped

off could

cause the glass

to crack

heater

operati ng tem

peratu

re.

21. Connect

the electrical

components

that

you

disconnected

Step 10.

22.

Caretully

bend the lower

portion

of the

heat exchanger

into the machine

compartment

and

resolder

the

suction

line

to the

compressor.

Remember

shape the tubing so it won't rub

against

the

cabinet

or other wiring.

23. lnstall

a new

drier

instructed

under

"Replacing

Drier".

Then leak

test

all

joints.

24. Evacuate

and recharge

the system

instructed

under "Evacuating

and

Rechargi

25.

Test run

the unit to make

sure it is

operating

properly.

26. Pinch

off the

process

tube

and cut

off

the

service

valve.

Solder

the

joint

and

test for

leaks.

27.

Reseal

the heat

exchanger

entrance

hole

with butyl

sealer, making

sure

you

have

good

seal.

28. Reinstall

the

tubing

clamp

on the heat

exchanger.

29. Reinstall

the machine

compartment

cover

exactly

was

before removal

maintain

proper

air flow across

the

compressor

and defrost

pan.

30. Reinstall

the

freezer

parts

in reverse

order

of their removal

Step

4-14

ELECTRICAL

SYSTEM

THE RELATED COMPONENTS

The

wiring

diagram

located on the cabinet back

or behind the

grille

depicts

the electrical

system for that

model. All electrical components

are

grounded

to the cabinet.

The

green

center

conductor

in the

power

cord is attached

to the cabinet

provide

grounding

circuit

when the

cord

plugged

into

a properly grounded

outlet.

After making a replacement

an electrical component,

always

make

sure

the

ground

wire is reconnected.

The

electrical

outlet should be checked

to make

sure

it is

properly

wired.

Check

the outlet

with a circuit tester.

COMPR^ESSOR

TESTING THE COMPRESSOR

DIRECT

Testing the compressor with no other

wiring in the circuit is called the direct

test

method. The relay and overload

protector

must

removed in order to

perform

this

test. lt is recommended

that

a compressor

tester illustrated below. be used

to make

this test.

The tester leads

are

marked RUN, START,

and COMMON. Connect

the

common

lead

to the common terminal of the

compressor,

the start lead to the start

terminal

and the run lead to the run

terminal. The compressor terminal

arrangements are illustrated below. The

other two

leads

are

for

a start

capacitor

(if

used). When not in use, attach

the two

leads together and

place

the toggle switch

in the OFF

position.

Make

sure

there are

no bare leads touching

the cabinet. Plug

in the

tester

and

flip the

switch

to the start

position.

As soon as the compressor

starts, release the switch to the run

position.

lf the

compressor

is operative,

will continue

operating on the run

windings. lf the compressor fails

to run,

the compressor

is defective and must be

replaced.

4-15

OVERLOAD

PROTECTOR

The overload protector prevents the

compressor

from

burning

out its

electrical

windings

in the event

the compressor

becomes

overheated

or draws

too much

current. The

overload

trips,

opening

the

circuit

to the

compressor.

lf it does this

repeatedly,

the

compressor

said to be

cycling

on the

overload.

Cycling

on the

overload

may

be caused

by:

1. Insufficient

air circulation

around

the

compressor

and

condenser.

2. Pull-down

on the

overload,

caused

a large

quantity

warm

food

placed

in the

refrigerator.

3. Compressor

stalling

due to lack of

pressure

unloading.

4. Low line

voltage.

5. Defective

starting

relay.

6. Defective compressor - shorted

windings.

TESTING

THE

OVERLOAD

PROTECTOR

test

the

overload

protector,

remove

the

compressor

terminal

cover.

Examine

the

bottom

of the

overload

for

signs

of arcing,

lf signs

of arcing

are

not

present,

either

check

for

continuity

connect

a jumper

wire across

the

terminals.

using

jumper

wire,

plug

the

line

cord

and

set

the temperature

control

a cold

setting.

lf the compressor

starts,

the

overload is defective

and must be

replaced.

lf the

compressor

fails

to start,

check

for a defective

starting

relay

compressor.

lf there is evidence

of arcing,

do not

connect

a jumper

wire,

but proceed

follows:

1. Disconnect

unit from

power

source.

2. Remove

the

relay

and

overload

from

the

compressor.

3. Connect

one

ohmmeter

probe

to the

compressor

shell. Make sure the

probe

makes

good

contact

with

bare

metal.

Connect

the other

ohmmeter

probe

each

of the three

compressor

terminals,

one

time.

4. lf the meter

shows

no continuity

ground,

install

the

relay

and

overload

protector

to the

compressor

terminals.

lf the meter indicates that the

compressor

terminals

are grounded,

replace

the

compressor.

5. Attach a jumper wire across the

overload

terminals,

6. Make

sure

the

jumper

wire

does

not

short

ground.

7, Reconnect

the

unit

power

source.

the compressor

starts,

the overload

protector

is defective

and must be

replaced.

4-16

STARTING RELAY

The starting relay energizes the

compressor

start winding.

When current

applied to the

compressor,

the magnetic

coil will raise

the relay

plunger

the

starting contacts,

thus

connecting

the

start

winding in parallel

with the run

winding. As the compressor motor

approaches

ull running speed, the

current

in the run

winding

and in the

relay

coil

decreases

and

the

plunger

drops out,

opening the start winding

circuit. The

compressor

continues

to operate

on the

run winding.

NOTE:

A replacement

relay

must

match

with the compressor

windings. lt is

important

to replace

a defective

starting

relay

with the

replacement

relay

specified

the

parts

manual.

and run

terminals

of the

compressor.

This

device is connected

in parallel

with

the

run capacitor

and in series with the

compressor

start windings.

This will

produce

a short

circuit

across

the run

capacitor

during

the

compressor

starting

sequence,

and

full

current is

applied to

the

start winding

well

the

main

winding.

Since the PTC device is temperature

sensitive,

a variance

in its temperature

causes

a change

in its

resistance.

When

current

is first

applied

to the

compressor,

the PTC

device's

low

resistance

shorts

out

the run capacitor, thus producing

adequate

motor

starting torque.

As the compressor

motor approaches

running

speed,

the current

through

the

PTC

device

causes the

temperature

and

resistance

of the PTC

device to increase

where

appears

be an

open circuit.

The

compressor

continues

to operate

the run

winding

parallel

with the

series

combination

of the

run

capacitor

and

start

winding.

START

PTC

STARTING

DEVICE

RUN

CAPACITOR OVERLOAD

PROTECTOR ,_

,[n

RUN

PTC

STARTING

DEVICE

POWER

LEADS

The

PTC

solid

state

starting

push-on

component

mounted

+ CAPACITOR

LEADS

CHECKING

PTC

DEVICE

1. Unplug

the line

cord.

2. Discharge

the

capacitor.

3. Remove

the

wires

from

the

pTC

device

terminals.

4. Allow

the

PTC

device

cool to room

temperature,

device is a

to the start

4-17

5. Remove the PTC device from the

compressor.

6. Using an ohmmeter, check the

resistance

between

the PTC

device

terminals.

The ohmmeter should

between

3 and

20 ohms.

An extreme

variance

from

between

3 and

20 ohms

indicates

a defective

PTC d'evice

which

must be

replaced.

NOTE: WE DISCOURAGE

USING A

VOLTMETER TO CHECK THE

PERFORMANCE

OF THE PTC DEVICE

BECAUSE

THE TEST RESULTS

ARE

INFLUENCED

BY SEVERAL

FACTORS,

SUCH

ITS DEPENDENCE

THE LINE

VOLTAGE

TO THE COMPRESSOR,

THE

RESPONSE

CHARACTERISTIC

OF THE

VOLTMETER

AND THE PTC DEVICE

TEMPERATURE

AT THE TIME THE

COMPRESSOR

IS ENERGIZED.

REPLACING

PTC

DEVICE

1. Unplug

the

line cord.

2. Disconnect

the PTC device

from the

compressor

terminals.

3. Remove

the

lead wires

from

the PTC

device

terminals.

4. Replace

the device and

reconnect

the

wires

to the

proper

terminals.

RUN

CAPACITOR

The run capacitor

is mounted adjacent

the compressor. lt is electrically

connected

between

the run and start

windings

and in parallel

with

the PTC

device.

The capacitor

is connected

to the

compressor

circuit

provide

the required

phase

difference

between

the start and

run

windings

for running

the compressor.

CAPACITOR

FAILURES

Failure

of the capacitor

may

be caused

(1)

a short

circuit,

(2)

open

circuit,

(3)

capacitor

that is low

in capacitance.

A short circuit will cause the start

windings

to be energized

in the start

mode

all the time.

The compressor

could

start

but the overload protector would

eventually

trip, and

sooner

or later, trip

continuously.

An open circuit

should,

under normal

conditions,

allow

the compressor

start.

Under

a heavy

running

load, however,

the

compressor

will usually

trip on the

overload.

A capacitor

may lose capacitance

by a

loss of its electrolytic

properties.

The

compressor

would

run under

a light

load,

but

would trip,on

the overload

in high

ambient

conditions.

TESTING CAPACITOR

CAUTION: DISCHARGE

A CAPACITOR

BEFORE

HANDLING.

SHORT

ACROSS

/TS

TERMINALS,

US/NG

A RES/STOR

WITH A

MINIMUM

RES/STANCE

lOOO OHMS,

We recommend using a caPacitor

analyzer

when

testing.

Preferably

a solid

state

unit

that measures

capacitance

and

power

factor

of any capacitor,

and

has an

automatic

means of discharging

the

capacitor

through

resistance.

4-18

ALTERNATE METHOD

USING OHMMETER

1. Unplug the line

cord.

2. Disconnect

the capacitor lead

wires.

3. Short

across

the

terminals

using a resistor

with

a minimum

resistance

1000

ohms to

sure

charge remains

to damage the

ohmmeter.

4. Set the

ohmmeter

selector

switch

the 10,000

ohm scale

(Rx10K).

5. Connect

the ohmmeter

leads to the

capacitor

terminals

and observe the meter

pointer

low

end.

a. lf

the

pointer

deflects

to the low

end and remains

there,

the capacitor

is shorted

and

must

replaced.

b. lf

there is no

deflection

of the

pointer,

the

capacitor is

open and must

be replaced.

c. lf the pointer

deflects toward

the

high

end of the

scale

and then slowly returns

toward

the low

end, the

capacitor is

good.

4-19

TEMPERATARE CONTROL

Top Mount Models

These models

have two temperature

controls:

fresh food

and

treezer

compartment. The

fresh food

temperature

control senses the temperature

its

compartment

and

governs

the

compressor

operation

accordingly. The freezer

compartment

control adjusts

a baffle

which

regulates

the amount

of air allowed to

enter the fresh food

compartment.

Turning

the freezer

temperature

control toward the

coldest setting reduces

the flow

chilled

air

the fresh food

compartment. Because

the fresh food temperature

control uses

a sensing

element that

must be cooled

sufficiently before

stopping the compressor, the

reduced

air

flow

causes longer

compressor run time

and colder treezer temperatures,

while

maintaining

the required

fresh food compartment

temperatures.

Conversely

by turning the treezer temperature

control toward

the warmest

setting,

you

increase

the flow

of air into the fresh food

compartment

and decrease the flow to the

f reezer. This

cools the f resh food

compartment temperature

control

sensing element

faster,

resulting in

shorter compressor run

times and warmer treezer

compartment temperatures.

The fresh food

compartment will

stay

near the recommended

f resh food

temperature

unless

the freezer

temperature is

turned

an extreme temperature.

The

differential

between cut-in/cut-out temperature will vary

approximately 10o F.

CHECKING

OPERATING

TEMPERATURES

The temperature

control feeler tube is

located in the fresh food compartment

behind the

slotted cover which

allows air

circulate over the feeler tube.

To check

the cut-in/cut-out temperatures

attach the

bulb of a

thermistor

temperature

tester to

the control

feeler

tube.

REMOTE READING THERMOMETER

BULB

4-20

Allow the compressor to

complete

two

three

complete cycles.

lf the temperature

readings

are not within two degrees of

requirements the control is

defective and

must

be replaced. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO

RECALlBRATE.

A defective control may cause the

compressor to run

continuously or not

all.

lf either of these conditions exist, check

as follows:

COMPRESSOR WON'T RUN

1, Remove the

control enough to expose

its terminals.

2. Short across the

control

terminals,

the compressor starts, install

a new

control, lf the compressor fails to

start,

check the defrost timer,

compressor

receptacle, and

unit

wiring for

defects.

COMPRESSOR RUNS CONTINUOUSLY

Turn

the control knob to OFF.

lf the

compressor continues to

run,

proceed

to Step 2. lf the compressor stops,

check the feeler tube to make

sure it

positioned properly

and that the

air

flow

through the

feeler

tube housing

not restricted. lf the feeler

tube is

positioned

properly

and there is no air

restriction,

check the control operating

temperatures.

Remove

the control lar enough to

remove

one of the wires from its

terminal. lf the

compressor

continues

to run,

there is a short

in the unit

wiring.

REPLACING THE

CONTROL

1. Disconnect the unit from its power

sou

rce.

2. Remove

the control knob

pulling

straight down.

3. Remove the three

screws

that

retain

the thermostat

housing.

4. Remove the screws that

secure the

control to the mounting bracket.

Carefully

work

the control

out

through

the

opening.

5, Disconnect the wire leads,

Measure

and record

distance feeler tube is

inserted in housing.

6. Pull the feeler tube

from its housing.

7. lf replacement control

doesn't have

plastic

sleeve on feeler

tube,

remove

the plastic

sleeve from the original

control feeler tube

and install it on the

new

control

the same manner.

8. Insert

feeler tube same

distance into

housing

as original.

9. Install the

replacement

control in the

reverse

order of removal.

4-21

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

Side-By-Side Models

The temperature

control regulates

the

compressor running time while

maintaining

the

proper

temperature

range

in the ref rigerator

compartment.

This

control is located in the f resh food

compartment.

lf your customer

complains

that the

refrigerator

is too

cold,

or too

warm,

you

can make a control knob adjustment

(within reason)

that may remedy the

situation. Bear in mind,

however, that

other factors

such

as door openings,

air

circulation,

food load,

etc.

play

a vital role

the relationship

of how

the refrigerator

actually operates

as compared

to how

the

customer thinks

it operates.

further

servicing is necessary,

check the

control operation or the operating

temperature

of the

control.

CHECK OPERATING

TEMPERATURES

A check of operating temperature

of the

REFRIGERATOR

COLD CONTROL

can

made

securely

attaching

the bulb

of a

remote reading thermometer

to the

control housing.

The cut-in temperature will be

approximately

1-2

degrees

higher than

the

specif ied

temperatures.

4-22

The cut-out temperature will be

approximately the same as specified. DO

NOT ATTEMPT TO RECALIBRATE

THIS

CONTROL. The adjustment screws are

for

altitude adjustment only, never for

correcting the cut-in and cut-out

temperatures.

CHECKING

CONTROL

OPERATION

COMPRESSOR WON'T RUN

1. Disconnect

the unit from power

source. Remove the light shield,

remove the

mounting screws from the

control housing and let it hang

down

on the top

shelf.

2. Connect an ohmmeter

across the

control terminals and check for

continuity.

lf the control indicates

continuity, check the

defrost

timer

and

cabinet

wiring

for defects,

COMPRESSOR RUNS

CONTINUOUSLY

1. Turn the control

knob to OFF.

lf the

compressor continues to run,

proceed

to Step 2. lf the compressor stops,

check the control operating

temperatures. However, do not

overlook the possibilities

of a

malfunctioning

f reezer fan

or defective

fan blade

causing

reduced

air

flow to

the control feeler tube.

Unplug the line cord f rom the

electrical outlet. Remove the light

shield. Remove the mounting

screws

from the control housing

and let it

hang

down on

the top

shelf.

Remove

either the red or the

blue

wire

from the control terminals.

Plug in the line

cord. lf the compressor

does

not

start. the control is defective

and must be replaced. lf the

compressor

starts and continues

run, there is a short

in the

cabinet

wiring.

Install

the new control in reverse order

of the removal

procedure,

Reinstall

ground

wire.

REPLACING

CONTROL

1. Disconnect the unit f rom power

source.

2. Remove the light

shield and

remove

the mounting

screws

from the

control

housing. Disconnect the

ground

wire

from

the wiring cover.

3. Disconnect the electrical

leads

from

the control terminals.

4. Straighten the metal tabs that retain

the feeler

tube loop. Unsnap

the

control from the housing

and remove

it with

twisting motion,

5. Install

the new control in reverse

order

of removal procedure, Reinstall

ground

wire.

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4-23

ALTITUDE

ADJUSTMENTS

All Models

The temperature controls used on

these units have two adjustment

screws both which

must

turned to

compensate

for variances

in altitude, The chart shows

the exact

screw

turns

for each

1000 feet

of elevation.

Note the screw

rotations are designated in

graduations

sixtieths.

These screw turns

ARE very critical.

When

making

altitude

adjustments:

ALTITUDE

FEET

COUNTEBCTOCKWISE

TURNS OF

1/60

A TURN

EQUALS 60 OF

ROTATION

CUT.IN

SCREW CUT.OUT

SCREW

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

7000

8000

9000

1 0000

7t60

13/60

1 9/60

25/60

31 /60

39/60

43/60

49/60

55/60

7t60

1 3/60

9/60

25t60

/60

39/60

43t60

49/60

55/60

4-24

DEFROST TIMER

Top Mount

Models

The freezer

evaporator

defrosting system

actuated

by an electric

timer.

The timer

fastened

under the

cabinet, behind the

grille.

The timer

control

shaft

is designed

for

screwdriver

adjustment.

When

manually

setting

the timer

to initiate

defrosting,

turn

the control shaft clockwise

until you

establish

the

approximate

location

of the

defrost

cycle.

Then turn

the

shaft

slowly

and

stop immediately

when

the

first

click

is heard.

The schematic

illustrates

the

timer

circuits

sequence.

1st Click

- The timer switches

off the

compressor

and treezer

fan circuit for

approximately

21 minutes

with the

6 hour

timer,

and

23 minutes

with the 8 hour

timer.

At the

same

time,

energizes

the

radiant

heater.

Once the

temperature

the def rost termination thermostat

reaches

the

cut-out

point,

the termination

thermostat

will open the circuit

to the

radiant

heater.

However,

the

compressor

circuit remains

open for

the

duration

of the

defrost

interval,

Again,

that is

dependent

on whether

it is

6 or

8 hour

timer,

2nd Click

- The timer switches

off the

defrost

circuit

and

starts

the

compressor,

lreezer

fan,

and the

condenser

fan

motor.

The

compressor

and fan

motors

are

now

governed

the

temperature

control

for

period

approximately

six or

eight

hours

of compressor

run time, (depending

on the

model)

after which

a new defrost

cycle

begins.

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

COMPRESSOR

FIBST

CLICK.DEFROST

OPERATION

4-25

CHECKING

DEFROST

TIMER

Disconnect

all wires from the timer and

attach ohmmeter

probes

to the terminals

specified

in the accompanying

chart. lf

continuity

is indicated

the timer is

defective.

l.'

Yellow :

# 2 /* *-,.

Blue #1

-t, :

Qrange #d

WLrite_--'""

TO TEST TURN TIMER

KNOB TO CHECK

BETWEEN

TERMINALS

Timer Motor Circuit leave as is 1&3

Defrost Circuit 1st

click 1&2

Compressor Circuit 2nd

click 1&4

DEFROST TIMER

Side-By-Side Models

The freezer evaporator defrosting system

is actuated by an electric

timer. The

electric

timer is located

behind

the

grille.

The timer

control shaft

is designed

for

screwdriver adjustment. When

manually

setting

the timer

to initiate defrosting,

turn

the control shaft clockwise until you

establish the approximate location of

the

defrost cycle. Then turn the

shaft

slowly

and stop

immediately when the first click

is heard.

1st Click

- The timer switches off the

compressor and freezer fan circuit

for

approximately

23 minutes. At the same

time, it

energizes

the radiant heater. Once

the temperature of the

defrost

termination

thermostat reaches the cut-out point

(+40' F), the termination thermostat

will

open the circuit to the radiant heater.

However, the compressor circuit remains

open for the

duration of

the 23 minutes.

4-26

2nd Click - The timer switches off the

defrost circuit and

starts

the compressor,

freezer fan, and the

condenser

fan motor.

The

compressor and

fan motors

are now

governed

the temperature

control

for

period

of approximately

eight hours

compressor run time,

after which a new

defrost cycle begins.

Yellow

*2 I

Blue#1,

orangesf,

Wtlte,r.

CHECK1NG DEFROST

TIMER

Disconnect

all wires from the

timer

and

attach ohmmeter

probes

to the terminals

specified in

the accompanying

chart. lf no

continuity is indicated

the timer is

defective.

TO TEST TURN TIMER

KNOB

CHECK

BETWEEN

TERMINALS

Timer Motor Circuit leave

as is 1&3

Defrost Circuit 1st

click 1&2

)ompressor Circuit 2nd

click 1&4

4-27

DEFROST HEATER AND THERMOSTAT

Top Mount

Models

These

models

use a radiant heater

remove accumulated

f rost f rom the

lreezer evaporator and drain trough

during a defrost cycle.

The defrost timer

energizes

the defrost

heater every six or eight hours of

accumulated

compressor

run

time. When

the temperature in the thermostat

area

reaches approximately

+ 47o F the

thermostat

contacts open

the

circuit to the

defrost heater.

The defrost

heater is a spiral wound

resistance

wire enclosed in a heat

resistant

glass

tube.

lt is mounted in the

middle of the evaporator beneath

aluminum

shield.

ohmmeter

check will

determine if all

phases

the

defrost cycle are

functioning

properly.

The

defrost

thermostat

contacts

open at approximately

47" F and

at approximately

15o F.

The defrost

thermostat

may have either

47K or 56K ohms resistor connected

internally across the two terminals. lf

so,

this resistor

permits

checking

the defrost

heater even when the evaporator

temperature is

* 15o F

higher.

An ohmmeter can be used to test the

defrost heater and thermostat without

disassembling

the treezer

compartment

even if the evaporator

temperature

15o F or higher.

To check

proceed

follows:

1. Disconnect the unit from oower

source.

2. Disconnect the plug

from the defrost

timer.

3. Set

the

ohmmeter to the R x 1K

scale

and

connect

the

probes

to the No. 2

and No. 3 terminals of the

disconnect

plug.

4. The

meter should read

between

42K

and 63K ohms. The resistance is not

critical. As long

as there is continuity

between Terminals No. 2 and 3 the

def

rost heater is in operative

condition.

lf there

is no resistance reading

(open

circuit)

the

defrost heater

and thermostat

must be checked individually.

NOTE:

When

using

the

meter avoid touching the

probes

since

this

could result in

a false

reading

and misdiagnosis.

4-28

To test the

defrost heater and thermostat

when the

evaporator

temperature

is * 15o

or below

proceed

follows:

1. Disconnect the

unit

f rom

power

source

and

plug

it into

a wattmeter.

2. Plug wattmeter into

power

source and

manually

advance the defrost timer to

the

defrost cycle. See the defrost timer

section for information

on manually

advancing the timer.

The wattmeter

should

read between

400

and 510

watts

depending

on the

model

(total

wattage

of the divider

heater, timer motor and def

rost

heater).

Should the reading

be '10

watts the

defrost

heater

or thermostat

is defective. To further isolate

the

defective

part

proceed

Step

Disconnect

unit from wattmeter.

Steps 2 and 3 of testing

the

heater and thermostat

when the

evaporator temperature is above

15o F

higher.

lf the meter reads

between 42K and

63K

ohms.

the defrost thermostat

defective.

use an ohmmeter

set the meter to R x

1K scale. lf the reading

approximately

25 to 31 ohms. the defrost heater

and

thermostat

are

operative.

REPLACING

RADIANT DEFROST

HEATER

Disconnect

the unit f rom power

sou rce.

Remove

the facade mounting

screws

and the facade

(facia).

Remove the

divider channel

mounting

screws.

Carefully

pull

the

channel

out

from

under the

center hinge.

Slide the freezer

bottom out of the

cabinet.

Remove

the evaporator cover. lt is

very important

that this part be

reinstalled

in the same manner

as it

was

originally.

Disconnect

the radiant heater

wire

leads.

Remove the heater

retainer clip with

long nose

pliers.

8. Pull

the shield

and

the

heater

out.

9. Install the replacement

heater in the

reverse

order of removal.

NOTE: When

installing the replacement

heater

not

touch

glass.

Salt from finger

tips

could cause

damage.

REPLACING

THE DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

The defrost

termination

thermostat

located

beside the

evaporator on the

back,

left hand

side.

1. Follow

the first

five

steps

replacing

the heater.

2. Disconnect

the leads f rom the

thermostat.

4-29

3. Remove

the

defrost

thermostat and

mounting

clip. This is

done by squeezing

"in"

clip and

pulling

up to disengage.

4. Install the defrost thermostat

in the reverse order of removal.

NOTE: When

reinstalling, make sure

you

snap thermostat back into

position

with wires

facing

back

of refrigerator.

Route wires between the liquid

and suction

lines

on evaporator

before connecting.

DEFROST HEATER AND

THERMOSTAT

Side-By-Side Models

Two radiant heaters

are used

to remove

accumulated f rost f rom the treezer

evaporator

and drain trough during a

defrost cycle. These heaters

are

wired in

series, thus comprising the

defrost

heater

system.

The defrost

timer

energizes

the defrost

heater every eight hours of accumulated

compressor run time. When the

temperature in the thermostat area

reaches approximately

40o F the

thermostat contacts open the circuit to the

defrost heater.

Each defrost heater is a spiral wound

resistance wire enclosed in a heat

resistant

glass

tube.

One

is mounted in the

middle of the evaporator

behind an

aluminum shield. The

other

is mounted

just

below the evaporator.

An ohmmeter check will determine if all

phases

of the defrost cycle are functioning

properly.

The defrost thermostat contacts

open at approximately

* 40" F and close

at approximately

+ 150 F.

The

defrost

thermostat

has either a 47K

56K ohms

resistor

connected internally

across

the two terminals. The resistor

permits

checking the

defrost heater even

when the

evaporator

temperature is * 150

higher.

An ohmmeter can be used

to test the

defrost heater and thermostat without

disassembling the treezer compartment

even if the evaporator temperature is

+15o

F or higher. To

check

proceed

follows:

1. Disconnect the unit from power

source.

2. Disconnect

the plug

from the

defrost

timer.

3. Set

the

ohmmeter to

the R

x 1K scale

and connect the probes

to the No. 2

and No.

terminals

the

disconnect

plug.

4-30

4. The meter should read between 42K

and 63K ohms.

The resistance is not

critical. As long as there is continuity

between

Terminals No. 2 and 3 the

def rost heater is in operative

condition.

lf there

is no resistance reading

(open

circuit) the

defrost heater and

thermostat

must be checked individually. NOTE:

When

using

the meter

avoid

touching the

probes

since this could result in a false

reading

and misdiagnosis.

To test

the defrost heater and thermostat

when

the evaporator temperature is * 15o

or below

proceed

follows:

1. Disconnect the

unit f

rom

power

source

and

plug

it into

wattmeter.

Plug wattmeter into

power

source and

manually advance the defrost timer to

the

defrost cycle. See the def

rost

timer

section for information

on manually

advancing the timer.

The

wattmeter should read 550 to 600

watts

depending on the model

(total

wattage

of the divider heater, timer

motor

and defrost heater). Should the

reading

be 0 to 4.5

watts

the defrost

heater

or thermostat is defective.

f urther isolate the defective part

proceed

to Step 4.

Disconnect

unit

from wattmeter.

Steps 2,

3 and

4 of

testing

the

heater and thermostat when the

evaporator temperature is above

150

F or higher.

6. lf the meter reads

between 42K and

63K ohms, the defrost

thermostat

defective.

To use an

ohmmeter set

the meter

to R x

1K scale. lf the reading

is approximately

20 to 23 ohms, the defrost

heater

and

thermostat

are operative.

REPLACING RADIANT

DEFROST

HEATER

To reach the

heater for replacement, it is

necessary to remove the following items:

1. Disconnect

the unit from power

source.

2. Remove the

freezer shelves and the

lreezer

basket.

3. Remove ice tray rack, if used. On

models with an ice maker, it must

removed.

4-31

TIMER

YEL

,WH

r-----::'---; wH

Remove the auger and some shelf

retainer clips.

Remove the lower freezer evaporator

cover.

Disconnect the def rost heater

electrical leads f rom the cabinet

wiring.

Remove the mounting

screws

from the

radiant heater deflectors and

pull

the

heaters

out of

the housing. Move

the

deflector

to the right, the left

side will

clear the flange for easy removal.

lnstall

the new radiant heaters in the

reverse order of the removal

procedure.

Connect the electrical

leads disconnected in

Step 6.

When replacing

a thermostat, it must

clamped to the

coil

housing

as shown. You

can

loosen

a thermostat for replacement

merely

springing either side of the clip

out.

4-32

CONDENSER

FAN

All Models

The

condenser

fan

connected

parallel

with

the compressor.

lf the compressor

runs

but the fan

doesn't,

the

fan is

either

defective

or disconnected.

lf neither

operates,

check

the cold control,

defrost

timer,

and the

cabinet

wiring.

TO CHECK THE CONDENSER

MOTOR

DIRECT

1. Disconnect

the unit from power

source.

2. Remove

the black insulated

cover

from

the rear

the

chbinet.

3. Remove the compressor

terminal

cover.

4. Disconnect

the condenser

fan motor

leads.

5. Attach a 115 V test cord to the

condenser

motor

leads

and

plug

into

a power

source.

lf the motor

fails

operate

it is defective

and rnust

replaced.

REPLACING

THE

CONDENSER

FAN

MOTOR

1. Disconnect

the

unit f rom

power

source

and

remove

the

insulation

cover

from

rear

cabinet.

2. Remove

the

screws

that

mount

the fan

motor to

the

brackets.

3. Carefully

remove

the

fan motor

from

the

cabinet.

4. Transfer the fan blade to the

replacement

motor

and

make

sure it is

installed

in the

same

manner

as the

original.

5. Install

the motor leads

and ground

wire.

6. Install

those

parts

previously

removed

and test

run

the

unit.

4-33

FREEZER FAN

Top Mount

Models

The lreezer fan circulates

cooled air

throughout

the fresh food and freezer

compartment.

The fan blade

is made

polyethylene

and

pushed

onto

the

shaft.

It is important

when replacing

the fan

blade

that

the hub of

the fan blade

face

the

front of the cabinet.

lf the fan fails or

operates erratically,

the reduced air

circulation

will result

in poor cooling

characteristics.

CHECKING

FREEZER FAN

Using an ohmmeter,

the treezer fan

can

be checked without

having to disassemble

the freezer.

1. Disconnect

the unit from power

sou

rce.

2. Make sure

that the door

closed and

attach

the ohmmeter

probes

to the

service cord

terminal blades.

3. Disconnect the relay f rom the

compressor.

4. lf the condenser and treezer fan

motors

are operative

the meter should

read about

40 ohms.

lf the

freezer

tan

is inoperative

the meter

should

read

approximately

150 ohms.

NOTE:

Ohm and

wattage

readings

are

just approximates

and may vary in

either direction.

The freezer

fan motor can be

tested by

the

direct

method by

proceeding

follovvs:

1, Disconnect

the unit from power

source.

2. Remove the

facade

(facia).

3. Remove the divider

channel.

4. Slide

the

plastic

Ireezer bottom

out of

the cabinet.

5. Remove the styrofoam evaporator

cover. lt is important

that this be

replaced

in the

original

position.

6. Pull the fan

motor

assembly

half way

out and disconnect

the leads.

The

wire

leads are self-locking

and it is

important to squeeze

the clip before

pulling

it out.

Pull

the motor assembly

out of the

cabinet

and

place

it on a

work surface.

Connect

the motor terminals

to a

service

cord and

plug

the service

cord

to the

power

source,

lf the motor fails to operate

it is

defective and

must be

replaced.

Squeeze

Clip

Remove

4-34

REPLACING

THE FREEZER

FAN

1. Follow

Steps 1

through 7 of checking

the freezer fan.

2. Remove

the fan

blade by

pulling

it off

the

shaft.

3. Remove

the screws that

secure the

motor

to the

mounting

bracket.

4. Install

the motor in the mounting

bracket.

5. Install the fan blade on the

replacement

in the

same

position

on the original

motor

shaft.

6. Set the

fan motor

assembly into

the

slot

the styrofoam

drip tray.

7. Connect the

wire leads

and the

ground

wire

to the

motor.

8. Reassemble

those parts previously

removed

and

test the

unit.

The fan

blade

is provided

with

a stop on

the face

of the hub.

When

the blade is

positioned

so the

stop

rests

against the

end

of the

shaft it is

properly

installed.

FREEZER

FAN

Side-By-Side

Models

lf the

treezer

fan fails

operate,

or runs

erratically, the

reduced

air circulation

will

cause unsatisfactory temperatures

throughout

both food

compartments.

lf the

fan runs,

but erratically,

you may

notice

that

the

compressor

run time

increases

the

fan RPM

decreases.

The freezer

fan is

designed

to draw

air up

f rom the bottom of the treezer

compartment;

pull

it through

the

coil area

and blow it out at the top against

dispersing

shield, thus creating a

pressure

chamber

behind the

shield, From

here the air is dispersed in three

directions.

The fan is wired to run

simultaneously

with

the

compressor.

CHECKING

& REPLACING

FAN

MOTOR

Before

checking

the fan

circuit for

defects,

remove

the

dispersing

shield and

spin the

blade to make

sure nothing

has lodged

against

it which

could

prevent

normal

fan

operation.

lf the

blade

spins freely,

check

the

fan motor.

You

can

test

fan

motor

connecting

the

leads

directly

a 110 volt

source.

this,

proceed

as follows:

4-35

Disconnect

the unit

from the power

source. Remove the freezer fan

dispersing

shield.

Remove the upper evaporator cover.

You

will have to drive the

center

pins

out of the rivets to remove them.

Disconnect

the fan motor leads from

the

cabinet

wiring.

4. Attach

a 110

volt test cord to the fan

leads - plug the test cord into the

electrical

outlet. lf the fan fails to

operate, the motor or its leads is

defective.

5. The replacement motor will be

attached to the bracket

in the same

manner

as the original.

FAN

BLADE ALIGNMENT

ln the

event

that the treezer fan blade is

removed

or loosened, reposition

on the

shaft

pushing

on until the

stop resets

against the end of the

shaft.

DTVIDER CHANNEL HEATER

Top Mount Models

Only

CHECKING

THE

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

WIRE

The

divider channel

heater

wire can be

checked

without

disassembling the

unit.

1. Disconnect

the unit from the power

source.

2. Make a continuity

check

of the switch

and heater

across terminals

and

REPLACING

DIVIDER

HEATER WIRE

The

foil mounted

divider

channel heater

wire is stuck to the rear surface of the

divider face

plate.

The

wire is replaced

peeling

the

old

one off the

divider channel

and

sticking the

replacement

one on. To

replace

the wire

proceed

as follows.

1. Disconnect

the unit from power

source.

2. Remove

the facade

and the divider

channel

and disconnect the heater

leads

and

ground

wire.

3. Remove

the old heater wire and

replace.

4. Reconnect

the heater wire and

reassemble

those parts previously

removed.

4-36

MI\YTAG SECTION

CABINET

AND

@RELATED

COMPONENTS

FOOD LINER

All food

liners

are made

of a sturdy

plastic

material

which

has

a glossy

surface

similar

appearance

to porcelain

liners.

All models

are

produced

with foamed-in-place

insulation

and

their f

iners

cannot

be replaced

due to

the

bonding

properties

of the foam.

Models

with

foamed-in-place

insulation

can

be repaired,

using

a iner patch

kit or a tape

kit, if the

Iiner

becomes

cracked.

COMPARTMENT

ACCESSORIES/MOUNTING

HARDWARE

SHELVES

There are several different types of

shelving

used

on the

models

covered

this

manual.

The following

information

can

used to

determine

which

type

you

are

working

and how

can be

serviced.

FREEZER

(STATTONARY)

SHELVES

Top

Mount

Models

Remove:

1. Lift

up on right

side

of shelf

and

push

to right.

2. Swing

left

side

of shelf

and

pull

left.

Remove

shelf.

reinstall:

With side of shelf tilted upward,

position

right

rod

ends

into

upper

part

of the

oblong

holes

the freezer

side

wall. Push

the right.

Lower

the left

side

of the shelf

and

push shelf to left into left shelf

supports.

Make

sure

shelf is secure

before

5-1

CANTILEVE

SHELVES

I'

lff

Side-By-Side

Models

remove:

1. Llft the right

end up slightly and

push

the

shelf as

far to the right

will

go.

2. Lift the left

end up approximately three

(3)

inches

out of sockets and

pull

the

right

out of

the

sockets.

Reverse

procedure

to reinstall.

(FRESH

FOOD)

Remove:

The

cantilever

shelves are

adjustable and

mount

onto

brackets

attached to the liner

rear. The

shelves are removed

by lifting

up on

the

shelf

the

rear

and

front,

then

pull

out of

brackets.

To reinstall:

Insert

shelf so the insert

hooks

fit into

selected

openings in brackets.

Let

shelf

settle down into

position.

CANTILEVER

SHELF TRIM

The

cantilever

shelf

trim

is easily removed

placing

the shelf

on a

flat

work

surface

and using a straight screwdriver to

carefully

pry

on the

rolled

edge. The trim

is installed

by placing

the shelf in a

vertical

position

and forcing the

trim onto

the metal

piece

until it

snaps securely

place.

CRISPER SHELVES

To remove:

1. Remove

all cantilever

shelves

in order

allow removal

of crisper,

2. Remove

crisper

drawers by

pulling

out

to the

stop. Lift

and

pull

again.

3. Carefully remove

glass.

The

glass

just

lays

on the

shelf.

4. Lift crisper

shelf

and

pull

forward.

Tilt

to one side to remove f rom

ref rigerator.

5. The

crisper shelf rod

can

removed

by lifting

up on the rod

until it is in the

top

of the

grooves. Push in on one

side and lift

up the other

side of the

rod to clear.

Reverse

procedure

reinstall.

5-2

REFRIGERATED

MEAT

KEEPER

The

meat

keeper has a shutter control to

adjust the

amount of air

admitted into the

pan interior. NOTE: Make sure meat

keeper

is installed in the refrigerator

the arm on meat keeper

can come in

contact with

baffle.

CHECKING

OPERATION

Most problems concerning the meat

keeper

will result from

improper

operation

of the

air shutter. However,

don't

overlook

the possibility

that frozen

packages

may

have

blocked the

air

inlet

from the freezer

compartment.

REPLACING

THE REFRIGERATED

MEAT

KEEPER

COVER

The

plastic

cover

the

meat keeper

can

withstand

a great

deal of stress but if it

becomes

necessary

to replace the part,

proceed

follows:

Pull

the pan

out until it stops, lift it

slightly

and at the same time

pull

the

pan

completely

out.

Lift and remove

the

shelf assembly

out

of the

refrigerator.

Set

the

shelf

upside-down

on a work

surface.

Insert

a straight screwdriver

under

the front

corner of

drawer and

remove

the

plastic

rivets.

4. Lift the front

of the

drawer and

pull

out of the

shelf frame.

5. The drawer

is installed

in the reverse

order of removal.

NOTE: The meat keeper

drawer can be

dismantled

removing

plastic pins

from

the

side of

the

drawer

and unsnap

at the

back of the

drawer. Now

you

have access

to the

control

bar.

REPLACING

FRIGID

MEAT

CONTROL

To remove

the

sliding baffle

in the frigid

meat control:

1. Lift off the meat pan housing

assembly.

2. Remove

the air tunnel

from the freezer

back by removing

one rivet at the

bottom.

3, Lift the

styrofoam

insulation to get

the sliding

baffle.

4. Slide the baffle

out of the tunnel.

5-3

air

flow

to the treezer compartment which,

therefore,

further lowers the

temperature

of the freezer

compartment.

By turning

the freezer cold control knob

toward

a lower number,

you

increase the

air

flow

of chilled air into the fresh

food

compartment. This will increase the flow

of chilled air to the f resh food

compartment

and

raise the temperature in

the freezer.

FREEZER

CONTROL

CONNECTING ROD .- 7z OPEN

CLOSED

tt.

FREEZER

COLD

CONTROL

Top Mount Models

The freezer cold control is located in the

top of the fresh food compartment.

The

control

knob is

connected to a damper by

a rod.

The control knob operates the damper

which, when turned to a higher number,

reduces the flow

of chilled air into the

fresh food

compartment and increases the

5-4

REPLACING

FREEZER CONTROL

CONNECTING ROD

Top Mount Models

Disconnect the unit lrom power

source.

Remove the doors and center

hinge.

Remove facade.

Remove the screws from the divider

channel.

Disconnect

the ground

wire and

the

wire leads from the divider channel.

Be careful not to scratch

the surface

when laying it down.

lf necessary,

you

can

remove the two

tapping plates for easy styrofoam

removal.

Pull

the lreezer

chest

bottom

out

of the

cabinet.

Remove

the styrofoam

lreezer coil

cover.

lt is very

important

to return

this

cover

exactly

as it

was

originally.

Remove

the

air

tunnel

from

the treezer

back.

Lift

the

freezer

coil

until it clears

the

styrofoam

drip tray. Form

a piece

wire

into the

shape

of letter

"S" to

fit

the

freezer

liner.

This

wire

will

serve

as the treezer coil support while

replacing

the

connecting

rod.

10.

Disconnect

the

plug-in

connector

to the

control

wire

harness.

11.

Pull

the

styrofoam

assembly

out.

lt is

recommended

that the

styrofoam

drip

tray and the top of the fresh food

compartment

be pulled

at the same

time.

Pulling

separately

will

result

damaging

one or

the

other.

12. Place

the styrofoam

assembly

on a

work surface

and remove

the orifice

and

damper

assembly

pulling

up to

free

damper

shaft

from

crank.

13.

Lift the

styrofoam

drip tray

and

set it

where it

will

not

be damaged.

14. Install

the new rod and set the

styrofoam

drip

tray

on top

of the

fresh

food

compartment

top.

15. lnsert

the

orifice

and

damper

assembly

in the

styrofoam

drip tray.

16.

Insert

the

damper

shaft in the

crank

and

press

the

damper

into

crank

until

place.

17.

Assemble

the

parts

the

refrigerator

by following the reverse order of

removal.

NOTE:

MAKE

SURE

THE

WIRE

LEAD

THE

RADIANT

HEATER

WILL

NOT

THE

WAY

OF THE

FREEZER

FAN

MOTOR.

5-5

FREEZER COLD

CONTROL

Side-By-Side Models

The

freezer control

is a mechanical baffle

that can be adjusted to regulate the

amount of chilled air

that is

allow

to enter

the fresh food compartment.

This control is also located at the back and

top

of the fresh food

compartment.

lt is

held in place

by two (2)

screws

(lower

front

and and upper

rear).

MOUNTING HARDWARE

NYLON SNAP NUTS

Snap nuts are used

in places

where

screw must mount into

the liner.

To remove

a snap

nut,

pry

it loose

with

small screwdriver

or a

putty

knife.

Install

a snap nut by

pressing

the nut into

the

opening until

it snaps into

place.

PLASTIC

RIVETS

Drive

type

plastic

rivets

are used to

mount

some of the

components inside the

food and treezer

compartments of these

models. The procedure

for removing

these

rivets

is shown. To install

one of

these rivets,

press

it into

place

and drive

the center

in until it is flush

with the

rivet

shoulder.

TWIST NUTS

This type of nut is

used

to mount

parts

the refrigerator

and

treezer

compartment.

They are installed

before the cabinet is

foam insulated

so if one becomes

damaged it must

replaced

with a snap

nut.

DRAIN TUBES

Top Mount

Models

During the

defrost cycle, water from the

treezer

coil collects

in the drip tray,

and

runs through

the hole in the

drip tray

and

along

the

upper

surface of the fresh food

compartment

ceiling. This water is

channeled to run in two different

directions

down the back wall of the

refrigerator.

This

prevents

it from running

directly to the cantilever

shell support

flows to the

drain tube.

i':

:l;

/:\

i$,

(

/* /

DRAIN

TUBE

Side-By-Side Models

Side-by-side

models have

a drain tube

that

attaches to the

drain

trough,

passes

through

grommet

in the lreezer liner

and

extends out the cabinet

bottom.

5-6

SERVICE

ON DRAIN

TUBE

All Models

lf the

drain

tube is

clogged,

carefully

push

a round

object about

114"

O.D.

down the

pipe.

Then

flush

it with

warm

water

until

the

food

particles,

causing

the problem,

are washed

into the

pan.

STYROFOAM

DRIP

TRAY

Top

Mount

Models

Only

1. Disconnect

the unit f rom power

source.

2. Remove

the freezer

and fresh food

compartment

doors.

3. Remove

the divider channel

from

cabinet.

4. Remove

the freezer

chest

bottom

pulling

up and

out.

5. Remove

the styrofoam

treezer coil

cover. lt is important

that this

part

replaced

the

same

position.

6. Remove

the

air tunnel.

7. Disconnect

the

wire leads

from

the fan

motor, def rost heater, termination

thermostat,

and

plug-in

type

connector

at the

wiring

harness.

Form

a piece

wire into

the

shape

the letter

"S"

and

fit it into

the

vertical

air tunnel

drive

rivet

hole

in the

rear

liner

wall.

Lift

the

evaporator

and

hook

to the S-shaped

piece

of wire.

This

will

hold

the

evaporator

out

of the

way

while

removing

and replacing

the

drip tray.

Pull

the

styrofoam

assembly

out

of the

cabinet

and

place

on flat

work

surface.

''N-*-

= *,*,U

Push

Object

About

114"

O.;.

Down

Pipe

DRAIN

GROMMETS

Drain

tube

grommets

should

never

need

replacement unless they have

deteriorated.

Should

ever

be necessary

to replace

the grommets,

lubricate

the

new grommet

with petroleum

jelly or

water. Place the tube on a long

scre-wdriver

and

push

it in place,

forcing

the

flange

into

the

hole in

the

cabinet.

DRAIN

TUBE

REPLACEMENT

Before

the

drain tube

can

be removed

these

models,

the

aluminum

sleeve inside

the tube

must

be removed.

Before

you attempt

to push

a drain

tube

through

grommet,

lubricate

the

tube

with

petroleum

jelly

or water. Place

the

tube

a long

screwdriver

and

push

it into

the

grommet.

lJ the

tube

extend

through

the insulation

the

cabinet

exterior,

the

screwdriver

will

act

as a

guide

line

with the hole and the grommet

in the

cabinet

bottom.

5-7

10.Separate

the styrofoam

drip

tray

from the

fresh food

compartment

top by

removing

the

damper

and orifice

assembly.

This

done

pulling

damper

and orifice

assembly

to free

damper shaft

from crank.

Position

the replacement

drip

tray on

the fresh

food compartment

top.

Transfer

the fan motor assembly

from the defective

drip

tray to the replacement

drip

tray.

lnsert the orifice and

damper assembly

in the styrofoam drip

tray and

insert

the

damper

shaft

into the crank.

Press the damper

into

the crank until

it is in

place.

Replace

the

drip

tray

in the reverse

order of

removal making all connections.

11.

12.

13.

14.

5-8

CABINET DOOR^S

AND

ASSOCIATED PARTS

PAINT

TOUCH.UP

Painted

areas of the

cabinet

or doors that

become scratched

or marred can be

touched up with enamel. When

manufactured

a high

solids

polyester

used.

WARNING:

NEVER

USE LACOUER

ANY

PLACE

ON THE CABINET

WHERE

IT WILL

CONTACT THE

DOOR

GASKET. LACQUER

WILL DETERIORATE THE VINYL

MATERIAL

IN THE

GASKET.

DOOR LINER

Top Mount

Models

REMOVING

AND

REPLACING

DOOR

LINER

The

polystyrene

inner

door liner

and the

door gasket

are mounted

to the outer

panel

by screws

placed

around the door

flange.

The inner

door liner

could be

replaced

without

removing

the

door from

the cabinet.

lf it is necessary

to remove

the

door liner,

proceed

as follows:

1. Turn

the

control to the

off

position.

2. Open the freezer

door

and remove

the

screws

and metal

bracket from

around

the

door flange,

Remove

the door

liner

and

transfer

the

gasket and metal bracket to the

replaeement

liner.

Make

sure that lip

"A" of the door gasket will be

sandwiched

between

the inner

panel

and the retainer

strip.

Position

the replacement

door liner

and loosely install

all the screws

around

the

door flange.

5. Close and

open the

door several

times

and check the

gasket

for

proper

seal.

6. Carefully

open the

door

pulling

the

middle

section

of the

door

panel.

NOTE: DO NOT

PULL

THE DOOR

BY THE

HANDLE

OR THE PANEL

WILL

SHIFT OUT

OF ALIGNMENT.

Tighten

all corner

screws

snug tight.

Close and open the door several

times.

Recheck

the door gasket

for

proper

seal. lf it is good,

tighten

the

rest of the screws. Avoid

overtightening

the

screws.

Tighten

the

screws

until they

are

just

snug, then

turn them

clockwise

another

one-half

turn.

NOTE:

NOT ATTEMPT

TWIST

THE

DOOR

PANEL

AFTER

ALL

THE

SCREWS

HAVE BEEN

TIGHTENED.

9. Transfer the shelf trim to the

replacement

liner.

5-9

DOOR

LINER

Side-By-Side

Models

The inner door liner and the

door

gasket

are mounted to the

outer door

panel

screws

placed

approximately every four

inches

around

the

door

flange.

Although

the procedure

for reassembling these

items

seems obvious, the following facts

should be

kept in

mind:

1. Always lay the door on a flat, well

padded

surface

during reassembly.

2. Position the

gasket

around the inner

panel

so that it will be sandwiched

between the

door

liner

and the metal

bracket.

3. Tighten

all inner panel mounting

screws until they

are

just

snug.

4. Don't

tighten the inner

panel

mounting

screws unevenly,

or attempt to twist

the door after

the screws have

been

tightened. Such action may

permanently

damage the inner

panel.

5. Always

align the door as instructed

under "Cabinet

Door Alignment",

whenever

any inner

panel

mounting

screws have

been

removed.

DOOR PANEL

Top Mount Models

REMOVING

AND

REPLACING

DOOR PANEL

UPPER

DOOR

1. Turn

cold control to

off

position.

2. Remove

door handle

and trim.

3. Use a soft lead

pencil

to trace

around

the upper hinge.

This will aid in

replacing the hinge.

4. Remove

the upper hinge and

place

top of unit

with newspaper

or cloth

underneath

prevent

scratching. The

door will remain held in place

by the

magnetic

aasket.

Do not misplace

the

plastic

spacers.

5. Carefully open the

door and lift it up

and off the center hinge

pin. Care

should be taken not to misplace the

center hinge

spacers. Place door

on flat work

surface.

6. Transfer handle,

trim, insulation,

plug

button,

bushings,

gasket

and

liner

replacement

panel.

7. Position

door onto center

hinge

and caref

ully close door. The

magnetic

gasket

will

hold the door in

place.

8. Install

the top hinge

using the tracing

to help

align the hinge. Make

sure the

plastic

spacers are installed.

L Open and

the

door

several

times

and

tighten

the liner

mounting screws.

Do not twist

the door

after

the

screws

have

been tightened.

LOWER DOOR

Remove

upper

door.

Remove

center hinge

pin.

Make

sure

not to misplace

the

plastic

spacers.

Carefully open the

door and lift it up

and off the lower

hinge. Place

door on

flat work surface.

NOTE: lf unit has

an ice

and

water

fountain,

pull

wires

and

water

line through

the hinge.

Transfer

handle,

trim, insulation,

plug

button, bushings,

gasket

and

liner

replacement

panel.Do

not tighten

the

liner mounting

screws.

Position

door onto bottom hinge,

position

center hinge

into bushing.

Close door.

Install the

upper door

and

hinge.

Open

and close the

doors and tighten

the liner

mounting

screws.

5-10

REVERSING DOORS

Top

Mount models, with the exception of

models

having

ice

or water through the

door, are manufactured with reversible

opening

doors.

The instructions for this

are covered

in SECTION

2 - INSTALLA-

TION.

DOOR

REMOVAL

Door

removal is covered in SECTION

2 -

INSTALLATION.

Care should

always

taken when removing

doors on models

having

ice

water fountain.

TOP HINGE

AND

DOOR

CLOSER

Side-By-Side Models

To remove the upper

hingd from

either

cabinet

door,

proceed

as follows:

1. Trace

around the upper hinge

and

remove

the mounting

screws. The

hinge

on the lreezer door is under a

small

amount of

tension

and will

push

toward

the center of the cabinet when

the mounting

screws are released,

2. Pull the hinge straight

out until it

clears the door.

When installing

the

top

hinge,

install

it as shown. You will

have

pull

toward the

outside edge

the

cabinet to line up the mounting

screws.

DOOR

CLOSER

Side-By-Side Models

There are no specif ic door closer

adjustments with which

you

can improve

the door

closer operation.

it seems to

operating

improperly,

you should make

sure

the

cabinet

level and that the

doors

are

properly

aligned. The

cabinet must be

level

or tilted back

slightly, so the

door

closer doesn't have to

pull

the

door uphill

when

closing it,

lf leveling and door alignment

adjustments

don't

help,

and

you

are sure

the doors

are properly

spaced out from

the

cabinet so

the

gaskets

aren't

binding,

the door closer is

probably

defective and

must

replaced.

To replace the

door closer,

remove

the top

hinge, inner

door

panel,

and the two door

closer mounting screws.

As you install the replacement

door

closer, make

sure

that the nylon

cam is

positioned

as shown.

lf the

cam is turned

180

degrees,

the

door closer action will

reversed.

5-11

REMOVABLE

SHELF

GUARDS

All

door

shelf

guards

are

easily

removed.

The model

you

service may have a wide

and also a narrow

guard.

Each type is

mounted basically the same except for the

number

of clips.

CABINET

WHEELS

Majority

of the models covered in this

manual have non-adjustable

rear wheels

and adjustable front wheels.

The rear wheels

are securely fastened in

place by an axle held in place by a

retaining

clip attached

to the cabinet

f lange.

WHEEL

CLIP e-[fi'?"

WHEEL

WITH

LOCKING

NOTCHES

The adjustable wheels are securely

fastened

by a clip located

the tip

the

axle. To remove the

clip use a long nose

pliers, pull

the clip

out of

the

axle. To

install,

push

it is in the hole

at the tip of the

axle.

To lock cabinet in place,

lock adjustable

wheel

assembly.

CABINET LEVELING

enhance its appearance

and

maintain

eff icient performance,

the ref rigerator

should be level.

The front wheels

were

adjusted at the factory

the

doors were

properly

aligned and the cabinet level.

However,

jarring

in transit,

or standing the

refrigerator

on uneven

floor

may cause

the

doors

shift out of

alignment.

door alignment

leveling

is necessary,

remove

the base

grille and adjust

the

wheels with a

screwdriver,

5-12

To lock

the cabinet in

place,

lock wheels. IMPROVING

GASKET

CHECKING

GASKET

SEAL

The photo below shows a view of the

magnetic

door

gasket

used

on all models

mentioned

in this manual.

The

magnetic

strips

are attracted to the metal

cabinet

front,

providing

an excellent

seal

around

the

entire

door.

A visual

inspection

of the door

gaskets

while

opening

and closing

the

door will

reveal

any

areas of

poor

seal. You

should

be able

to notice

a slight expansion

and

compression

of the

gasket

the

door is

opened

and closed.

SEAL

TOE.IN

TOE.OUT

ADJUSTMENTS

In order for the gasket

to seal evenly

around the entire

door, it must make

contact

at the top

and

bottom at the same

time. For

this reason

the

door, when

ajar,

should not toe-in

or toe-out.

To correct a toe-in

or toe-out

condition,

make

sure the

hinge

side of the

door

parallel

with the

cabinet

and

proceed

follows:

1. Check the cabinet levelers and

adjustable wheels.

Raising the

handle

side

may correct

a toe-out; lowering

may

correct

toe-in.

2. Loosen

all inner panel mounting

screws along the top, bottom

and

handle

side of the door. DO NOT

LOOSEN

THE

SCREWS ALONG

THE

HINGE

SIDE.

3. Hold

the

corner that

toes-in

stationary,

and

push

the

toe-out

corner

until

the door

is lined

parallel

with the

cabinet.

Tighten

a few

screws

the

handle

side to hold the door

in this

position.

4. Open and

close the

door

several times

to assure a proper

fit. lf necessary,

repeat

Steps 2

and 3.

5. Tighten

all

loosened

screws

until they

are

just

snug.

HINGE

ADJUSTMENTS

Hinge

adjustments

are necessary

when:

a. The gasket is not sealed

sufficiently

along

the hinge

side

the

door.

b. The gasket

is compressed

than 1116"

on the hinge side

(causing

a poor seal elsewhere

around

the

door).

5-1

c. The distance

between

the door

and

cabinet

greater

the

top than

is at

the bottom,

vice versa.

d. The

handle side

the door

does

not

line up with the

cabinet

side

(viewed

from the front), or when

the door

panel

toP

is not

Parallel

with the

cabinet

toP.

lf one or more

of these conditions

exist,

adjust

one or both

hinges

to correct

the

trouble. Raising

the hinge side may

correct a

door

sag.

DOOR

ALIGNMENT

The cabinet

door

on each

model

covered

in this manual

is in correct

alignment

when:

a. The hinge

side of

the door

is equal

distant

from the cabinet

flange

the top and

bottom.

b. The

gasket

seals

smoothly

and

compressed

no more

than 1116"

along

the hinge side

with

the door

closed.

c. The handle side

the

door

lines

up with the handle side of the

cabinet

(viewed

from the front).

The door

panel

parallel

with the

cabinet

top.

In many cases,

leveling

the refrigerator

will eliminate

the need

for cabinet

door

adjustments.

Make sure

the

refrigerator

plumb

by checking

all edges

as well as

both sides of the cabinet with a

carpenter's

level.

DOOR

SWITCH

The door switches

can be easily

removed

using

a flat

blade

screwdriver

or putty

knife.

Pry from

liner and disconnect

wires.

Be carefut not to allow wires to tall back

inside of liner.

5-14

WATER COMPONENTS

WATER

SUPPLY

Certain models are equipped with

"through the door" chilled water/ice

dispensers

and/or

automatic ice maker.

Models

which

have these

options require

the installation

a cold water

supply line.

For installation

the

water

supply,

please

refer

to SECTION 2

- INSTALLATION.

WATER

VALVE

Models

equipped

with ice maker only

have

single solenoid

valve

and the valve

is wired in series

with

the ice

maker

fill

switch,

Models

equipped

with ice and

water dispensers

have dual solenoid

valves

with

one valve

series with

the ice

maker fill switch

and the other

valve

series

with the

water

actuator

switches.

Check

the

coils in

the

following

manner:

1. Disconnect

the unit from power

source.

2. Remove those parts necessary

expose the solenoid valve(s) for

removal. Disconnect valve(s)

terminals and attach ohmmeter

probes. The meter should show

continuity.

REPLACING

THE WATER

VALVE

1. Shut

off water

and electrical

supply to

the

unit.

Remove

the machine

compartment

cover from

the rear

of the unit.

Locate

the

water

valve(s)

and remove

the

mounting

screw.

Disconnect

the

water inlet

fitting

from

the water

valve

and drain

the water

into

a container.

Disconnect

the water valve outlet

lines.

Drain

water

into

a container.

6. Transfer

the wire leads from the

defective water valve(s) to the

replacement.

7. Install

the replacement

valve(s)

the

reverse

order

of removal

and replace

those parts previously removed.

Check

all

connections

for

leaks.

WATER

FILL

TUBING

Care

should

be taken

when

removing

replacing

the

water fill

tubing

not

cause

a kink,

crimp

bend that

will result

restriction.

5-1

REPLACING

TUBING

FROM THE WATER

VALVE

TO THE ICE

MAKER

1. Shut

off the electrical supply

to the

unit.

2. Remove

the machine

compartment

cover

from

the rear

the unit.

3. Remove

the water valve mounting

screw and disconnect the ice maker

supply

tubing from the water

valve.

Drain the

water into

a container.

4. Remove the wire cover from the

cabinet back.

5. Remove the tubing clamps

from the

cabinet back.

6. Remove

the

clamp

which fastens the

supply tubing to the fill grommet

supplying the ice maker.

7. lnstall the replacement

tubing

in the

reverse

order of removal

and check

all connections

for

leaks.

NOTE: When installing the

supply

tubing

care

should be

taken not to crimp, kink or

bend the tubing so that a restriction

formed.

REPLACING TUBING

FROM

WATER

VALVE

TO WATER

RESERVOIR

1. Shut off the electrical supply

to the

unit.

2. Remove the machine compartment

cover from the rear of the unit.

3. Remove

the water valve mounting

screw and disconnect the

compression nut from the water valve

supplying the

chilled

water fountain.

4. Remove the

crisper shelf.

5. From the back of the refrigerator,

disconnect the compression nut from

the

bottom

reservoir

connection.

Drain

the water

into a container.

6. Pull the comoression nut off of the

supply

tubing

and pull the supply

tubing f

rom the back of the unit

through the bottom. (To pull new

tubing,

tie

to the old and

pull

with old

tubing.)

7. Install the replacement tubing in the

reverse order of removal.

8. Turn on the electrical and water

supply and activate the chilled water

dispenser. Draw six or seven

glasses

of water to remove

any trapped air in

the

system. Check all

fittings for leaks.

REPLACING THE TUBING FROM THE

RESERVOIR

THE FOUNTAIN

The

supply

tubing from

the

reservoir to the

fountain is

composed of

two

sections and

extends

from:

1. Reservoir to a connection

at the

bottom of

the

cabinet behind

the right

side

the

grille.

2. Then, from the connection behing the

grille

to the fountain.

5-16

RESERVOIR

TO PLASTIC

UNION

1. Disconnect the unit from power

source.

2. Remove those parts necessary to

expose the reservoir

(shelves).

3. Disconnect the

union connection

at the

bottom

the cabinet

behind the

grille.

Drain

the water

into a container.

Union Connection

Disconnect

the

compression

nut from

the reservoir

connection.

Pull

the

compression

nut off the

tubing

and

pull

the tubing from

the

back of the

unit through

the

bottom.

The replacement

tubing

is installed

pushing

it through

the

grommet

inside

the fresh food compartment

and

pulling

the tubing

from the

back of the

unit through the grommet. Leave

enough slack to make necessary

connections.

Installation

may be

facilitated

by coating the

tubing with

silicone

grease

to help

ease the tubing

through

the

grommet.

7. Install

the

parts

in the reverse

order

of removal

and avoid any crimps,

bends or kinks

that might

cause

restriction

the tubing.

L Turn on the electrical supply and

activate

the chilled water

dispenser.

Draw

six or seven

glasses

of water to

remove

any trapped

air

and check

all

connections

for

leaks.

PLASTIC

UNION TO

FOUNTAIN

Disconnect

the unit f rom power

source.

Disconnect

the

compression

nut from

the

union

the

bottom of the

cabinet

behind the

grille.

Drain

the water

into

container.

Disconnect

the

compression nut

from

the tube connector

on top of the

fountain

housing.

Pull the compression

nut from the

supply tubing

fountain

connector

end.

Pull the

supply

tubing

down through

the

door

bushing

and hollow hinge

pin.

Install

the replacement

supply

tubing

by pushing

it up through

the bottom

door

bushing

and hollow

hinge

pin.

Pull enough

through

to make the

connections.

After

all connections

have

been

made,

reconnect

the

unit to the

power

supply

and activate the chilled water

dispenser.

Draw

six

or seven

glasses

of water

to remove

any

trapped

air

and

check

all connections

for leaks.

lnstall

any

remaining

parts

previously

removed.

5-17

Water Reservoir

Disconnect

the unit f rom Power

source.

Remove

the crisper

shelf. You

now

have

access

to reservoir.

From back of unit, disconnect

the

reservoir

inlet

and

outlet

compression

nuts and drain the water into a

container.

Remove

compression

nuts

from

inlet

and outlet

water

lines.

Pull

inlet

and

outlet

water

lines

into

refrigerator

(fresh

food) compartment.

Remove

screws

securing

reservoir

cabinet.

Install

the replacement

reservoir

the reverse

order

removal.

You may

need

to lubricate

lines

with

a silicone

grease.

Reconnect

the unit

to Power

source

and activate the chilled water

dispenser.

Draw

six

seven

glasses

of water

to remove

anY

traPPed

air'

Check

each

connection

for

leaks.

L Reinstall any Parts PreviouslY

removed.

NOTE:

lf water

continues

to drip

from

the

fountain after releasing

the fountain

activator,

visually

check for kinks or

crimps

the supply

tubing.

REPLACING

THE

WATER

RESERVOIR

Side-By'Side

Models

lrll'::,l:rl:rilri::;irtll:l.:':,:llr'::,:rrr,,rr

li. :1"". . . '.i -.. : r' r'j;rr:

Disconnect

the unit f rom Power

source.

Remove

enough shelves

f rom the

f resh food compartment

to allow

access.

WATER

RESERVOIR

REPLACING

THE

WATER

RESERVOIR

Top Mount

Models

f$i

$lii

5-18

Remove

the crisper

shelf.

From the back, disconnect the

reservoir

inlet and

outlet

compression

nuts and drain the water into a

container.

Remove

compression nuts

from inlet

and

outlet

nuts

from water

line.

Pull

inlet

and outlet water lines

into

ref ri

gerator

compartment.

Remove

screws securing reservoir

cabinet.

Install

the replacement

reservoir

the reverse

order of removal.

9. Reconnect

the unit to power

source

and activate the chilled water

dispenser. Draw

six or seven

glasses

of water to remove

any trapped

air.

Check

each connection for

leaks.

10. Reinstall any

removed. parts previously

NOTE:

lf water

continues to drip from the

fountain after releasing the fountain

activator, visually

check for kinks or

crimps in

the supply tubing.

5-19

FOANTAIN ASSEMBLY

ICE

CHUTE

SEAL.ICE

CHUTE

CHECK-VALVE

COVER COMPRESSION

UNION

COMPBESSION

NUTS

COMPRESSION UNION

WIRE

CLIP

FOIL

WIRE

HARNESS

HEATER

CONNECTOR

ADJUSTABLE

STRAP

GROUND WIRE

U-NUT

GROUNDING

HEATER

WIRES

HEATER

FOUNTAIN

x s only)

CONDUIT

SWITCH

BRACKET

SWITCH

WIRES

AND FOIL

ICE AND WATER

FOUNTAIN

To Remove:

1. Remove

grill

f rom fountain

sump.

2. Squeeze

the

sides of

the

clear shroud and

pull

remove.

3. Remove

screw

from

underneath

fountain

escutcheon.

NOTE: Make sure the

selector switch

set on "ice" before

proceeding.

5-20

Pull the escutcheon

towards

the door

handle to snap,

or disengage

from

fasteners.

On Side-By-Side models, pull

escutcheon away from

door handle.

Remove wire cover by removing

two

screws.

You now have

access to the selector,

light

and lock

switches.

Remove

screw from

side

of fountain

that

will allow removal

of well

trim.

Carefully

pull the trim out of the

fountain

you

do not damage

it.

Now remove all the screws from

around the fountain

assembly

and

carefully

pull

the

assembly

out of the

refrigerator

door.

You now

have full

access to

solenoid,

dispenser

mechanism

and remaining

switch.

To replace the entire assembly

disconnect

water

and electrical

lines.

NOTE:

check trap

door for ice

chute,

activate

solenoid

by using switch on

dispenser.

NOTE: When reinstalling

fountain

assembly,

make sure water tube is

positioned

so that the insulation

between the

tubing

and the inside

panel.

REPLACING

ICE AND

WATER

ACTUATOR

swrTcH

When

the ice and water

actuator

pad is

depressed,

a switch located

behind

the

pad

is closed

completing

circuit through

a blue wire connected

at the selector

switch,

through the actuator switch

and

then

passing

through

a gray

wire

to the

child-proof

switch.

To Remove:

1. Remove

fountain

assembly from

front

of refrigerator.

2. The switch

is located

on the back

the

assembly

as shown

on next

page.

Remove

one (1) screw to remove

switch

and

switch

bracket.

5-21

3. Remove

two (2) screws to remove

switch

from

bracket.

REPLACING

THE

DASH-POT

The dash-pot

piston is drawn forward

when the ice actuator arm is depressed

and the resulting vacuum

causes

the

spring

to slowly

draw the actuator arm

back

to the

start

position.

1. Remove ice

assembly

from and water fountain

ref rigerator.

Remove the dash-pot piston from

mounting bracket by

removing tru-arc

ring

and spring

washer.

Remove

piston

arm by

prying

clip off.

Replace the dash-pot

in the reverse

order of

removal.

REPLACING THE SWITCH

ASSEMBLY

The switch assembly

includes

ice and

water activating switches,

fountain light

switch, light holder socket and on certain

models a child-proof safety switch

(electrical

or mechanical).

For

easy removal of

the

switches,

perform

Steps 1 through 5 of removing

the

"lce

And

Water Fountain Assembly". This will

expose

the

switches

for removal.

NOTE: ALWAYS MAKE

SURE

SWITCH IS

lN "lCE" POSITION when replacing

escutheon.

5-22

WATER AND

ICE

ACTIVATING

SWITCHES

(GH|LD-PROOF

SAFETY SWTTCH)

Disconnect the unit from power

source.

Remove those parts necessary to

expose

the switches for testing.

Disconnect the leads from

the switch

being tested and attach ohmmeter

leads.

Activate the switch and take a

reading. lf the meter does not show

continuity it can be assumed the

switch is defective. IMPORTANT: The

ice dispensing

switch is

series

with

the freezer interlock

switch and

if the

ice dispenser switch proves to be

operative, it will be necessary to

check the

interlock

switch.

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

NOTE: The fountain heater is only on

Slde-By-Side

models.

The fountain heater

is a nesistance type

heater

used

to evaporate any moisture

that might

accumulate from condensation.

The fountain heater is bonded to a

self-adhesive aluminum foil which is

shaped to fit the outside of the fountain

housing.

1. Disconnect the unit from power

source.

2. Remove the ice and water fountain

assembly as discussed earlier.

3. Disconnect

the wire connectors

and

remove the wire harness

grommet,

Disconnect

the water supply tubing. In

some cases it may be necessary to

remove the door

from the unit and

disassemble liner and gasket. See

door, liner and gasket removal

section.

4. Carefully

remove

the foam

seal and

disconnect the heater wire terminals.

5. Pull the foil heater

backing from the

fountain.

6. Reassemble the parts

in the reverse

order of removal.

REPLACING

THE ICE

DISPENSER

SAFETY

DOOR

The door. is designed to prevent

entry

into the ice dispenser chute when the

auger

is rotating. Remove the screws that

mount the ice chute collar assembly. The

door can be removed from the collar.

5-23

CHECKING

FOUNTAIN HEATER WIRE

lf a faulty

heater wire is suspected it can

easily be checked

through

the connection

the

bottom

door hinge

behind the

grille.

1. Disconnect the unit f rom power

source.

2. Remove the

grille.

3. For

Side-By-Side models, remove the

White and Red wire connectors and

separate

the wires.

Make certain the fountain light is

turned

off.

Connect the

probes

of an ohmmeter

the wires and perform

a continuity

test. lf the meter does not show

continuity

can be assumed the wire

defective and must

replaced.

Remove four (4) inner screws to

remove

impeller assembly.

Pull

auger impeller

assembly

from

bin.

Drive ring will

disengage,

Unscrew impeller retainer.

Remove

and auger will disengage.

Install

and reassemble in reverse

order

removal.

2. INTERLOCK

SWITCH

The interlock

switch

following:

1. Disconnect the

source.

2. Open the freezer

door and locate the

interlock

switch.

3. Use

a putty

knife

to pry

the switch

out

of the liner.

Cover

the knife

blade with

tape or with a cloth to prevent

scratching

the liner

surface.

is checked by the

unit f rom power

DISASSEMBLING ICE

STORAGE BIN

Open

treezer

compartment door.

Lift

and

pull

ice

storage bin assembly

from the freezer compartment and

empty any accumulated ice cubes.

Place the assembly on a smooth

surface.

Remove four

(4)

screws from the top

and

bottom

corners

the

ice storage

bin, releasing front.

5-24

Remove

the wire

connections

and attach

the meter probes to the switch

terminations.

Depress the

switch

plunger.

The meter will show continuity

if it is

operative.

lf the switch

proves

operative

and the problem

is still present,

check

treezer

door alignment.

The door

may not

aligned and the

switch

plunger

may

not

activated.

AUGER

The

auger

motor is located

behind the ice

storage

bin. The yoke fastened

to the

motor

engages the

drive ring

and turns

auger in

a clockwise

direction. Both

the

yoke and drive ring are designed to

prevent

a loosening

of the yoke by

exerting counter pressure while in

operation.

The auger motor

makes

one revolution

every three seconds and makes one

"dump"

every

one and half

seconds. To

determine

the free

movement

of the

auger

motor

open the

treezer

door

and

push

and hold

the

cabinet

switch in the

closed

position while pushing in the ice

dispenser

activator.

AUGER MOTOR

The

auger motor is

easily be removed:

1. Disconnect

the unit from power

source.

2. Remove

ice storage

bin from the

treezer

compartment.

3, Remove

the screws from

the auger

motor

mounting

bracket, releasing

the

auger motor

and

bracket.

4. Disconnect

the

auger

motor terminals

and remove

the motor

and

bracket.

5. Hold the auger motor

armature

and

turn

the

yoke

clockwise releasing

yoke

from

motor

shaft.

6. Remove

screws that fasten

the

motor

to the mounting

bracket.

7. Remove

the

auger motor

from

the unit.

8. Install

the replacement

in the reverse

order.

When checking

auger motor, remove

auger motor

from

unit and

attach

meter

probes

to the

auger motor

terminals.

The

meter

should

show continuity.

lf the

meter

does not show continuity,

the motor

should

replaced.

5-25

MI\YTAG SECTION 6

ICE

MAKER

INSTALLATION

Top Mount Models

PREPARING

THE

FREEZER

1, Unplug the refrigerator

power cord

from

the wall

outlet.

2. Move

the refrigerator

out from

the wall

so you can work at the rear of the

cabinet.

3. On 15 and 17 cubic foot models,

remove

the right

end

the

wire shelf

by pushing

it up out of the two shelf

brackets. Then

the

shelf will slide in

slightly to the left

and

the

shelf

can be

lowered

and removed

by pulling

it to

the right.

4. On 19, 21 and 23 cubic ft. models,

remove

the

upper

wire

shelf by sliding

it to the right,

then lift up on the left

end,

and

pull

out

right

side. Repeat

same motion

for the

bottom

wire

shelf.

Remove

the ice storage

tray. With a

phillips

screwdriver,

remove

the two

(2) screws on the treezer divider

located on the bottom left side and

save

for reinsertion.

Gently move

the

left

end

of the top plastic

shelf out

the left

cabinet wall and carefully lift

assembly

out of

grooved

channel.

Remove the existing

air duct by

removing

mounting

screw

and sliding

it to the left

out

the

channel. This

part

is no

longer required

when

using

the icemaker.

Using a table knife or similar

instrument,

pry

out

plug

buttons

"E".

Unscrew lcemaker electrical

receptacle

cap

"F".

Pull

out the

plug

"D"

from the

fill tube

grommet.

With

a twisting

motion,

push

fill

tube

over the icemaker

fill tube

grommet

far

as it will

go,

approximately

1 inch.

6-1

FILL TUBE

_--17@

A--- FILLTuBEGRoMMET

INSTALLING

ICE MAKER

1. On 15 and

cu.

ft.

models, use

the

small

air duct. On 19

and

21 cu.

ft.

models, use

the medium

air

duct.

23 cu. ft. models, use

the

large air

duct.

2. After selection,

slide the air duct,

bottom

corner

first,

into the slot

the

left side

of the

rear air

tunnel.

Fasten

the air duct

to the rear freezer

wall

with one

Type

"A"

screw.

Plug the

ice

maker

power

plug

into

the

ice maker

electrical

receptacle

in the

left side

of the

cabinet.

Observe

the

pattern

of the

metal

pins.

They

must

be positioned properly

to fit the ice

maker

receptacle.

Be sure

that the

plug

firmly seated

in receptacle.

Mount

the

ice

maker to

the side

wall

with 3

Type

"A"

screws

taking

care so

that

the fill

tube rests

in the

lill tube

channel. Start

with

the back

screw

first,

then

the bottom screw,

and

finally

the top

front screw.

not fully

tighten

any screw

until all 3 screws

are in

place.

Make

sure the

ice maker

sensor

arm

is down, Again,

make sure

that

the ice maker

power plug is firmlY

seated

in receptacle.

4@q

6-2

Reassemble

the

plastic

treezer

ctivider

and

shelves.

Replace

the

2 screws

the

freezer

divider.

Make

sure freezer

divider

is level

and

tighten

screws.

Reinstall

the ice

storage

tray

sliding

all the

way

to the

back

and to the

right.

INSTALLING

WATER VALVE AND

CONNECTING

TUBING

WORKING

AT THE

REAR

1. Working

at the right

rear

of cabinet,

remove

the

center

screw

from

the right

end

of the

black

f iber

panel

that

covers

the machine

compartment

with a

socket

driver,

and fold back

the etch

marked

flap.

Save

the

screw

for later

reinstallation

as this

flap

is required

for proper

and safe

operation

of the

refrigerator.

2. Locate water valve power plug and

water line inside machine

compartment. Remove both the

protective

cap from water line

and the

tape

from

the

power

plug

and discard.

Slip the

plastic

nut

on water

line.

Fit

the plastic

tubing

into

the water

valve

as far

as it will

and tighten

the

compression

nut,

finger

tight.

Then

with

a wrench,

tighten

the

nut

3/4 of

tu rn.

Connect

the

water

valve

power

plug

the

water

valve.

Either

wire

can

either

terminal.

Attach

the water

valve

the inside

leg

of the

cabinet

with

2 Type

"B"

screws

and

tighten

(see

Step 1). Take

care not

pinch

plastic

tubing

or let

it come

contact

with the compressor

or its

associated

tubing.

Install

the hose

nut,

rubber

washer,

water

supply

line,

and water

supply

line

clamp

onto

the

water

valve.

not

tighten

the

hose

nut

at this

time.

Rotate

water

line

as shown

Step

6-3

8. Slide nut

and

sleeve

onto

the water

supply line

(Step

3.) Insert

the

end of

the tubing

into

the

compression

union

as far as it will go. Screw in

compression

union.

Do not tighten.

This

will

be done

later.

MTG.

HOLES

PLASTIC

COMPRESSION

NUT

PLASTIC

WATER

LINE

RETURN

WATER

SUPPLY LINE

TIGHTEN HOSE

NUT

ON VALVE,

Sweat

or flare connection

can be used

instead

of the compression

union, if

desired.

NOTE:

When

using

unfiltered

well

water,

it is

advisable

use

a filter

the water

supply

line.

This

eliminates

all

possibility

small

particles

from

entering

the

water

valve.

Find

a 3/8" lo 1"

vertical

COLD

water

pipe near the refrigerator. Water

pressure

must

be between

and 1ZO

p.s.i.

Vertical

pipe

preferable,

but

horizontal pipe will work. lf a

horizontal pipe is used,

install

the

saddle

valve

the top

or,the

side

the

pipe,

not

the

bottom.

Turn

OFF

the

main

water

supply

and

drain

the

selected

pipe.

the

installation

instructions

that

are

supplied

with the

saddle

valve

for

proper

and

safe installation.

Route

the

copper

tubing

through

the

floor,

wall

sink

cabinet to

the

saddle

valve

location.

Form

the

excess

tubing

into a large loop. This allows

movement

of the

refrigerator

without

disconnecting

the tubing. Other

routing

methods

are

shown

on page

6-5,

WATER

LINE WITH

SLIOE

NUT AND SLEEVE

ON WATER LINE

CONNECTING

ICE MAKER TO

WATER

SUPPLY

All installations

must

be in accordance

with

local

plumbing

code

requirements.

Do not

use

plastic

tubing

plastic

fittings

because

the connection

between

the

water

supply

and the refrigerator

water

valve

inlet is under

constant

pressure.

Also,

certain

types

of plastic

tubing

may

become brittle with age and crack,

resulting

water

leakage.

Tubing

(1/4"

O.D.)

and

saddle

valve

can

purchased

from

local

hardware

stores.

SUPPLY LINE

MTG. HOLE

6-4

,, 7.

5. Locate the brass

nut and

sleeve which

come with the saddle

valve. Slide

them onto the 114"

copper tubing.

Insert the

end of the

tubing

into the

saddle valve

as far as it will

go and

tighten the nut with an adjustable

wrench.

Turn

otf the

saddle valve.

PIPE

CLAMPS

BRASS

SLEEVE

BBASS

NUT

COPPER

TUBING

Turn

ON the main

water

supply

and

flush

out the tubing

until the water

runs

clear. At

the

same

time,

check for

leaks at the saddle valve. Next,

prepare

to flush

out the 1/4"

tubing.

Position

a bucket

other container

the open

end

of the 1/4"

tubing

so it

will catch the water.

Turn on the

saddle valve

and allow

water to

flow

until it has cleared.

Turn

off saddle

valve.

In The Crawl Space

Under The

Home

Connect the

water line

from the

saddle

valve to the

water

valve

as shown in

Step 4

and 5. Insert the

water

line into

the compression

union

far

will

go.

Tighten

each

brass nut with

one

wrench

on the nut and the other

wrench

on the compression

union.

Return

water line to vertical.

Secure

water

supply line

clamp

with one

Type

"C" screw,

Step

6. Tighten

hose

nut

with

pliers.

Turn on saddle valve.

Tighten

any

connections

that

leak.

Close the hinged

access

panel

and

secure with

screw removed

and

saved

Step 1.

Plug

in the

power

cord

and

push

the

refrigerator

into

place,

arranging

the

copper tubing

so that it does not

vibrate against the back of the

refrigerator

against the wall.

IMPORTANT:

Because

the relrigerator

and ice

maker

are

warm, it

may

take up

to 12 hours belore the ice maker

produces

the first supply

of ice cubes.

Then you can discard

the extra parts

supplied in the kit. PLEASE

READ

the

use and

care instructions.

COLD

WATER

/ LINE

10.

Under

The

Sink

To The

Cold Water

Pipe

Through

The

Wall To The

Utility

Room

Cold Water

Pipe

6-5

Side-By-Side Models

PREPARING FREEZER

UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR

POWER CORD

from

the wall outlet.

Move the

refrigerator

out from

the wall

so you can work at the rear of the

cabinet.

On the 20 and 22 cubic

foot models,

remove the upper shelf by lifting

straight up on both sides and

pull

out.

On the 24 cubic foot model,

slide shelf

and divider assembly to the right and

pull

out.

Remove second shelf

by sliding shelf

the

left.

Then raise

shelf up on the

right and

pull

out.

Using a table knife or similar

instrument,

pry

out

plug

buttons

"E".

Using a screw driver or coin, unscrew

ice maker

electrical receptacle cap

7. Pull

out

the

plug

"D"

f rom the f ill

tube.

INSTALLING

ICE

MAKER

1. Plug the ice maker

power plug

into the

ice maker

electrical

receptacle in

the

left

side of the cabinet. Observe the

pattern

of the metal

pins. They must

be positioned

properly

to fit the ice

maker receptacle

as shown in next

drawing. Be sure that the plug is

firmly

seating in

receptacle.

2. Mount

the ice maker to the side wall

with three

(3)

type

"A" screws taking

care so that the fill tube

rests

in the fill

tube channel. Start

with the back

screw

first,

but do not tighten, then

install the bottom screw loosely and

then the top front

screw. All

three

(3)

screws

may now be fully

tightened.

Make

sure the ice maker sensor arm

is down.

CABINET

SCREW HOLES ELECTRICAL

OUTLET

Reinstall

the second

shelf

in the lower

of the two

positions.

Position the ice cube storage pan

directly under the ice maker.

cubic

foot

models, DO NOT

put

upper shelf

back

place.

On 24 cubic

foot

model, DO NOT

put

the shelf and divider back in place.

These

parts

are not required when the

ice maker is in

place.

SENSER

ARI

DOWN

FOR'-

"oN"

POSITION

6-6

INSTALLING

WATER VALVE

AND CONNECTING TUBING

Working from the

rear:

1. For the 22 and 24 cubic foot models,

remove the center

screw from the right

end

the black fiber

panel

that covers

the machine compartment with an

adjustable

wrench,

and

fold

back

the

etch marked

flap. Save

the

screw

for

later reinstallation

as this f lap is

required for

proper

and safe operation

of the refrigerator.

2. For

the 20 cubic

foot model,

above

sequence for the

left side

of the

fiber

panel.

CU.

FT. MODEL

ATTACH

WATER

VALVE HERE

Locate

water valve power plug and

water line inside machine

compartment.

Remove

protective

cap

from water

line

and discard.

Slip the

plastic

nut

water

line.

Fit the plastic

tubing into

the water

valve

far

as it will

and tighten the

compression

nut, finger tight. Then

with a wrench,

tighten the nut

314"

a turn.

Connect the

water valve

power

plug

the water valve.

Either wire

can

either terminal.

Attach

the water valve

to the inside leg

of the

cabinet with two (2)

type

"B"

screws

and tighten. Take

care not to

pinch

plastic

tubing

or let it

come

contact with the compressor

or its

associated tubing.

Select the proper

water

supply line.

For the 22 and 24 cubic foot models,

the

correct water

supply line is shown

in drawing. For the 20 cubic toot

model,

the

opposite water supply

line

should be used

as shown in drawing,

Install the hose nut, rubber

washer,

supply

line, and water

supply line

clamp

onto the water

valve. Do not

tighten the hose

nut

this

time.

Rotate water line.

Slide nut

and sleeve

on to the

water

supply line. Insert the end of the

tubing

into the

compression

union

far

as it will

go. Do not tighten,

this

will

be done

later.

10.

6-7

ir-'--t -l ] *ATERVALVE

J--.-_pl"l I PowER PLUG

w^m;-rslruu.Ji^l'fi

il*'\

CONNECTING

ICE MAKER

TO WATER SUPPLY

All installations

must be in accordance

with local

plumbing

code requirements.

Tubing

( 114" O.D.)

and saddle

valve can

purchased

from local

hardware stores.

Sweat

or flare connection

can be used

instead

of the compression

union, if

desired.

Do not use

plastic

tubing or

plastic

fittings

because the connection

between the

water supply and the refrigerator

water

valve

inlet is under constant

pressure.

Also, certain types of plastic

tubing

may

become brittle with age and crack,

resulting

water

leakage,

NOTE: When using unfiltered

well water,

it is advisable

to use a filter in the

water

supply

line. This

eliminates

all

possibility

of small

particles

from entering the

water

valve.

Find a 318"

to 1" vertical COLD

water

pipe near the ref rigerator. Water

pressure

must be between

20 and

120

P.S.l.

Vertical

pipe

preferable,

but

a horizontal

pipe will work. lf a

horizontal

pipe is used,

install the

saddle

valve

the top or

the

side

the

pipe,

not on

the

bottom.

Turn

off

water supply

and drain

selected

pipe.

lnstall

the

saddle

valve

according

manufacturer's

instructions included

with the

valve.

Route

the copper

tubing through

the

floor, wall or sink

cabinet

to the saddle

valve location. Form the excess

tubing

into

large loop.

tNororoopotrubinr"*""":;"t:;:I:.:,";;"u"'*:""r,

This allows movement for the

refrigerator

without disconnecting

the

tubing. Other routing methods

are

shown on page

2-8.

Slide

the brass

nut

and sleeve

onto

the

114" copper

tubing. lnsert the end

the tubing into

the

saddle

valve as

far

will

and

tighten the nut

with an

adjustable

wrench.

Turn off the saddle

valve.

WATER

VALVE

MTG.

HOLES

WATER

SUPPLY

LINE

PLASTIC

COMPRESSION

NUT

PLASTIC

WATEF

LINE

14P

- srroe

ruur

nruo

sleeve

\ oNrowArERL|NE

\ CONNECT BOTH

/:\ WATEF LrNEs

@U Yl'15"t*PBEssroN

6-8

COLD WATER

LINE

BRASS

SLEEVE

BRASS

NUT

COPPER

TUBING

Turn ON

the main water supply and

flush

out

the water

pipe

until

water

runs clear. At the same time, check

for leaks at the saddle valve. After the

water

has

cleared, flush out

the tubing

from the saddle valve to the water

valve into a bucket by turning the

saddle valve

on. When the water has

cleared,

turn

off the saddle valve.

Connect

the water line from the

saddle

valve to the water valve as shown in

steps

4 and 5. (Also

see drawing in

step 3.) Insert the water line into the

compression union

far as it will

go.

Tighten

each brass nut with one

wrench

on the nut and the other

wrench on the compression union.

Rotate water line to vertical. Secure

water supply line

clamp

with

one type

"C" screw. Tighten hose nut with

pliers.

Turn

on saddle

valve. Tighten

any

connections that leak.

Close the hinged

access

panel

and

secure with screw.

9. Plug in the power

cord and push

the

refrigerator

to the wall, arranging the

copper tubing so that it does not

vibrate against the back of the

refrigerator

or against the wall.

IMPORTANT: Because the refrigerator

and ice maker are warm. lt may take

to 12 hours

before the ice maker

produces

the f irst supply

ice

cubes.

CLAMPS

Under The Sink

To The Cold Water Pipe

The Crawl Space

Under The Home

Through The Wall To The

Utility Room Cold Water Pipe

8. Supply line connection to water valve.

NOTE:

loop tubing if necessary for cabinet

movement.

Through

The Floor To

Basement. Cold Waler

Pipe

6-9

.'ERVICING

The

design

of this ice

maker

allows

all of

the components to be tested without

removing

the ice maker or moving the

refrigerator

away from the wall to access

the water

valve.

Remove

the cover and you will see the

test

points

identified

on the

module.

N: Neutral

side

of line

M: Motor

connection

H: Heater

connection

: Thermostat

connection

L: L1

side

line

V: Water

valve

connection

NOTE: Read this section

completely

before

doing any testing

or adjusting.

Refer

to tech

sheet for

complete

testing

information.

The

test

holes

are identified

"N," "M,"

"V,"

etc.

TEST PROCEDURES

lce Maker

Plugged ln To Power

Shut-Off Arm Down-Freezer

Cold

O Test

points

L & N will verify 120 volts

to lce Maker module.

(Make

sure vour test orobes oo into

the

test

point's

112".)

O Test points

T & H will verify if the

bimetal

thermostat is

open

or closed.

Short

T & H with

an insulated

piece

wire ( 14

gauge)

to run

the motor. lf

the motor doesn't run, replace the

module

assembly.

lf the motor runs, replace

the bimetal

thermostat.

O lf

you leave

the

jumper

in for

a half

a revolution,

you

can feel the heater

the mold heat

up..if it's

good.

Remove the jumper and the water

valve will be energized in the last

half

of the revolution.

6-10

(Make sure that the treezer

temperature

is cold enough

to close

the

bimetal.)

NOTE:

Do not short

any contacts

other

than those

specified.

Damage

to ice

maker can

result.

lce

Maker

Unplugged

O Test points

L & H will check

the

resistance

of the heater

(72 ohms).

Replace the mold and heater

assembly

if not near

this value

(* or

ohms).

(Ejector

blades should be

at the end

of the cycle

position.)

SERVICE

PROCEDURES

covER

Pull water adjustment

knob first and snap

off cover. Index knob and reinstall

same

position

for same

water fill.

(Some

units

may

not

have

index

knobs')

Mold

Attachment

(Screw

Access

Ports)

MODULE, MOTOR

AND SUPPORT

ASSEMBLY

Insert

phillips

driver in access

ports

module. Loosen both

screws.

Disconnect

shut-off

arm. Pull mold from support

assembly. To remove module only,

remove 3

phillips

screws

and

pull

module

out of

housing,

SHUT.OFF

ARM

Pull out

from white bushing.

Reinsert

full depth. See page 6-15 for detailed

procedure.

MOLD & HEATER

Remove

module and support

assembly.

Install on

new mold & heater assembly.

BIMETAL.

Remove

module and support

assembly.

Pull out

retaining clips

with bimetal. See

page

6-14

for detailed explanation.

FILL CUP

Remove module and support

assembly,

Remove

ejector

blades and

shut-off arm.

Pull fill

cup up

from mold. See

page

6-16

for

complete

procedure.

EJECTOR

BLADES OR STRIPPER.

Remove module and support assembly.

When reinstalling ejector blades,

realign

"D"

coupling

with module cam.

ACCESSING

THE

CONTROL

BOX

To remove motor and contact assembly

f rom control box, take out 3 screws

(arrows)

and

pull

free after disconnecting

the

shut-off

arm.

Shut-Off

Arm

6-1 1

CAUTION

NEVER ROTATE

THE BLADE

OR THE

DRIVE

GEAR...IT WILL RUIN

THE MAIN

ASSEMBLY.

There

are several

switches which will

jam

if manually turned

counterclockwise

and

the gears will be destroyed if turned

clockwise.) lf

you

need to

advance

the ice

maker

into the cycle,

use a jumper

bridge H to T and unless the motor is

defective, it will run. (The

shut-off arm

must

in the

"On"

position.)

NOTE: There

are

several slotted shafts on

the

motor

assembly

board. Do not under

any circumstances insert

a screwdriver

and attempt to turn these

shafts. The

slots

are

permit

assembly

only.

NOTE: There are no repairable

replaceable

components in the module.

Unless

you are replacing

the module,

there

should

no need

to remove it when

diagnosing

or repairing the ice

maker.

MODULE

COMPONENTS

Shut-off

arm

linkage

Cam

Follower

Ground(Slightly

longer

than

other 3

terminals

so that

ground

makes first

and breaks

last

when

disconnected

plugged

in.

6-12

WHAT HAPPENS DURING

BLADE ROTATION

Water

Valve

Energized

7.5

Secs

140

Fiil Ejector

Blade

Stop

position

(about

1:30

o'clock)

Ejector

Stalls

lce

(1/2

Minute

5 Minutes)

Thermostal

Opens

This

Range

Of Rotalion 6 o'clock

Position

NOTE: Do not

test

if blades

are

past

rest

position.

Viewed From

Front

(Module

Side)

Only one revolution is possible

with the

cover on

due

a stop molded

cover.

360o will

affect

fill

by 40cc. 180o varies the

fill by Z0cc.

Further

adjustment

could damage module.

water valve

adjustment

screw

falls

out,

just

put

it back in

and align the hole in

the

hole

as shown.

@Water

adjustment

area

knob

haveMay

WATER

FILL

ADJUSTMENT

Turning

the water level

adjustment

screw

will move the

contact in its relationship

with the contact

ring segment. This

causes the

contact to vary the time that

the

water valve is

energized, since the

contact

ring is

tapered

the

end of the fill time.

Turning the knob or screw clockwise

decreases f ill: counterclockwise

increases

the fill

amount. ren

small

hole is

centered

in larger hr

adiustment is for 7.5 seconds

fill

time

6-13

NOTE: Some

ice makers

will have a

water

adjustment

knob. Pull off the knob to

remove

cover.

Be sure

to replace

knob

same setting

position.

WATER

PROBLEMS

Water

quality

can cause

ice makers to fail,

or produce unacceptable

cubes. lf

mineral

content

or sand

a problem,

the

screen in the

fill valve can restrict, or a

particle

of sand

can keep the valve

from

seating

properly. Results

will be small

crescents

(or

no ice) or flooding of

the ice

container if the water valve does not

close.

Mineral content

can

also lime up the

mold,

causing

wicking

of water over the mold

and

poor

cube release. Silicone

applied

at the upper edges, around

fill cup and

stripper.

TEMPERATURE

PROBLEMS

Temperatures in the freezer

section

which

average

above

the normal 0o *-5o will

slow the

production

ice. Complaints

inadequate

crescent

production

may be

corrected by simply setting

the freezer

a colder temperature.

The thermostat

cycling

temperature in this 1-revolution

ice maker is 17o

+ or

-3.

Obviously,

the

ice will be well f rozen when these

temperatures are achieved but cycling

time will be slowed if the freezer

temperature

is not

cold enough

to achieve

these mold temperatures easily.

NOTE: Only the thermostat,

mold, with

heater & wiring harness are

replaceable. Any other failure

(including the motor) requires

replacement of the module assembly.

you

are

replacing the mold assembly,

it comes with a new mold heater

installed.

External

. . plastic parts are

replaceabld.

A failed mold heater requires complete

replacement

of the mold and

mold heater

assembly.

SERVICE

THERMOSTAT

lf the thermostat is diagnosed as

defective,

can be removed

and replaced

easily, Remove the control box

from the

mold by taking out two Phillips screws.

{screwsb

Pull

(Front

ol Black Housing)

Pull the

housing

free

of the

mold,

and

you

will

see the

thermostat

on mold side.

also

Retaining

Glips

6-14

Using

needle nose

pliers,

grasp

one of the thermostat

clips

and

pull

out. Press in

new

thermostat,

making

sure that

pins

are

properly

indexed.

Using this

procedure,

it is not

necessary

remove

the electrical

assembly. lf

you

are

replacing

the module,

transfer

the

clips to

the new mold

support.

(Use

new thermal

bonding material.)

SHUT OFF ARM

SHORT ARM_REGULAR

I/M

Installation

Procedure

(Same

lor both arms)

Start

with arm in

steps

1,2

"down"

position.

2. &3.

1. Pustr

arm

inlo

center slot

white bushing-bottom

out

Water

adjustment

knob

localion

(not

all

models)

3. lrm should

be i'nside

edge

ol housing Shut-Ofl

Arm

FillCup

2. -Pustr

arm thru fill

cup flange

hole

past nolch

remove the

wiring

retaining

tab

and

pull

SERVICE

HARNESS

harness,

depress the

the

plug

free.

Inlo

Bushing

Down Position

Depres5

6-15

LEVELING OF

ICEMAKER

Assure uniform

ice crescents

Level

l/M by sliding

lell or right

in slot ol bracket

Tighten

Make sure

refrigerator

is level front to back

(Adjust

legs or rollers.)

REMOVING

& REPLACING

FILL

CUP

To remove

fill

cup

you

must separate

mold

and blade

from module housing.

Remove

blade

from fill cup.

The appropriate

"break-out"

plug

needs to

removed from the fill cup

for

your

specific

model. Check old

ice maker.

Pull

Cup Up And

Out

Of Slot

Requires

Considerable

Force

Remove

Plug

Loosen

6-1

WIRING

HARNESS

This

harness

plugs

directly into liner

receptacle.

OTHER INFORMATION

Motor

connectors

can be

damaged if leads

are removed.

The

motor is

available

only as

part

of the

complete

module

assembly.

One

(1)

revolution

blade takes 3 minutes

(* stall time

on ice).

Bench

test

cord

can be made lrom

cabinet

socket.

Tan

& black wires

on socket

plug

are

water valve

leads.

SPECIFICATIONS

MOLD HEATER 185

Watts. 72

ohms

l::Y:"ll

l:i":llfl

::::: :::3i".:,"#.'i

-i

WATER

F|LL...,.... 125cc.

7.5

seconds

MOTOR ............3

Watts. 4400

ohms

MODULE ..........Stamped

circuit,

Plug-in

connectors

CYCLE .............One

revolution

(ejects

& water fill)

6-17

MAYTAG SECTION 7

TROUBLE

SHOOTING

TOP MOANT

AND

SIDE.BY.SIDE

MODEI'S

7'-1

TROUBLE POSSIBLE

CAUSE REMEDY

A. Unit does

not run.

light in

refrigeralor. power

at AC

distribution

pa-

of house.

outlet.

Defective

outlet.

b. Open circuit

to AC outlet.

3. Defective

service

cord

plug.

4. Open service

cord

or open

ma-

chine

compartment

wiring

har-

NESS.

5. Two simultaneous

problems

light

bulb

out and

open

AC cir-

cuit

to compressor.

nel

1. Check

and advise

customer

call an

electrician.

2. a. Advise customer

to have

defective

outlet

replaced.

b. Replace

fuse. lf problem

not corrected.

advise cus-

tomer

to call electrician.

3. Replace.

4. Repair

or replace

if necessary.

Refer

to wiring diagrams

and

check

circuit.

5. Replace

light

bulb. Refer

to wir-

ing diagrams

and check

circuit.

Unit does not run,

light in refrigerator

works.

B. Temperature

control.

a. Defective

or misadjusted.

b. AC

circuit

open to control.

Defrost

timer.

a. Defective (contacts com-

pleting

compressor

circuit

are open).

b. AC circuits

open to timer

(motor winding or con-

tacts).

c. May

be defrosting.

Overload

proteclor.

a. AC circuit

open

to overload.

b. Defective

overload.

Stading

relay.

a. AC circuit

open

to coil

(ov-

erload

does

not click).

b. Defective

relay.

Compressor

motor.

a. AC circuit open to com-

pressor.

b. Defective

compressor

(ov-

erload

may or may

not

click

depending

upon what is

wrong with

compressor).

Low

line voltage

(overload

will

click on and off

as unit tries

stad).

Complete

or possible parlial

re-

striction

under high ambient

(cycles on overload protector

after unit

stops

and tries

to re-

stad).

Replace

or adjust

if neces-

sary.

Refer

to wiring diagrams

and check

circuit.

Replace.

Refer to wiring diagrams

and

check circuit.

Repair

or replace.

Refer

to wiring diagrams

and

check

circuit.

Replace

Refer

to wiring diagrams

and check

circuit.

Replace

Refer

to wiring diagrams

and check

circuits.

Replace.

Check voltage.

Must be

at least

100V

with

all other

load

on the

line.

See "Checking

operating

pres-

sure

C. Unit

runs

excessively

or continuously. 1. Check

to insure

light

does

not

stay

on continuously.

2. Dirty or restricted

condenser.

3. Defective

cold control.

4. Condenser

fan

not running.

1. Check

light

switch

and replace

if needed.

Check

door adjust-

ment.

2. Advise customer

that

it must

cleaned

least

periodically.

3. Repair

or replace.

4. Repair

or replace.

D. Unit

does

not run

for

period

of time after

defrost.

1. Defrost

tirner is defective

(does

not advance

cool

cycle). 1. Replace.

7-2

TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSE REMEDY

E. Unit runs

continuously

but there is no cooling

in refrigerator and

freezer compad-

ments.

1. Substantial

loss of sealed

sys-

tem charge

(low

wattage read-

i ngs).

2. Restricted

capillary or drier on

high

side

(low

wattage readings

while running). Will cycle

overload when unit

tries to start

after

defrost cycle, or after hav-

ing been

shut off and restriction

is still

present.

3. Defective compressor.

1. Locate and repair leak before

recharg i ng.

2. Replace defective

pad

or parts.

3. Repair or replace.

F. Unit runs contin-

uously. The refrigera-

tor and freezer

compartment are both

too cold

(normal

wat-

tage reading).

1. Temperature control

is defec-

tive (shorted contacts or not

adjusted.

Freezer control not adjusted

properly.

1. Replace

or adjust as required.

2. See

"Freezer

Cold

Control" for

proper

adjustment.

G. Unit runs contin-

uously. Refrigerator

compaftment not cold

enough but freezer

compartment is

colder than normal.

1. Air duct from freezer to refri-

gerator

is blocked

(normal

wat-

tage readings).

1. Remove what is blocking

the air

duct. See

"Air

Flow Diagram".

7-3

Unit

runs

excessively

or continuously. The

refrigerator and

freezer compartments

are cooling but are

not

cold enough.

Freezer

fan.

a. Defective fan motor.

b. AC circuit to fan open

(lower

wattage

readings).

Not defrosting

(lower wattage

readings than normal and frost

build-up on evaporator).

a. Defective

defrost timer, de-

frost heater

or defrost

ter-

minating thermostat.

b. AC circuit to defrost svstem

open.

Temperature control.

a. High setting of temperature

control may result in these

conditions under very se-

vere environmental and

usage conditions

(high

hu-

midity and large number of

freezer and refrigerator

door openings).

Sealed system.

a. Overcharge

(high wattage

readings).

b. Undercharged

(low

wattage

readings).

c. Partialrestriction.

Compressor motor defective.

Inefficient

compressor

(low

wat-

tage

readings).

Condenser fan.

a. AC

circuit

to fan open

(high

wattage reading).

b. Defective

fan

(high

wattage

reading).

Lint build-up

on condenser, or

improper ventilation of conden-

ser

(high

wattage reading).

Too much warm food

placed

refrigerator

at one time.

Air

(no

leak) in sealed system.

10. Separation of heat exchanger.

TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSE REMEDY

Replace.

Refer

to wiring diagrams

and check circuit.

Replace defective

part or

pads.

Refer to wiring diagrams

and check circuit.

Check and adjust for

proper

setting.

a. Evacuate and recharge with

proper

amount of refriger-

ant.

b. Cireck and see "Checking

Operating Pressure".

c. Check and see "Checking

Operating Pressure".

Replace.

a. Refer to wiring diagrams

and check circuit.

b. Replace.

Clean and advise customer.

Advise customer.

Replace drier and evacuate

system thoroughly, recharge

with

proper

amount of refriger-

ant.

Install Heat Exchanger Sepa-

ration

Kit, RA43302.

10.

7-4

TROUBLE POSSIBLE

CAUSE REMEDY

Unit

runs

excessively.

Refrigerator compart-

ment eventually

gets

cold enough but

freezer compartment

too

cold.

'1. Padial restriction

in air duct

from freezer

to refrigerator.

2. Freezer

cold control setting

too

cold.

High usage of refrigerator,

es-

pecially

in high ambient.

Freezer

light shield not in

place.

1. Check and remove what is

causing

the restriction.

See

"Air

Flow Diagram".

2. Adjust control

for proper ad-

justment, see "Freezer Cold

Control".

3. Advise

customer.

4. Replace

light shield.

J. Unit runs

excessively.

The refrigerator com-

pafiment

and freezer

compadment

both too

cold (normal

wattage

readings).

Setting

of temperature

control

too high for prevailing

environ-

mental

and usage conditions.

Defective tem

perature

control.

1. Reset control.

Replace.2.

K. Unit runs excessively

but temperature

ap-

pears

to be normal

refrig erator.

1. Door seals

may be leaking.

2. Problem

is one of customer

us-

age and education

with severe

environmental

conditions

after

confirmation

by a temperature

recording. Frequent door

openings.

3. Light may stay

on constantly in

refrigerator.

4. Inefficient compressor.

1. Adjust door or replace door

gasket.

2. Advise customer.

3. Check

light switch

and replace

if needed. Check

door adjust-

ment.

4. Replace.

L. Short running cycle.

Refrigerator and

freezer compadment

are cooling but are

not cold enough.

Temperature

control.

a. Defective

control (normal

wattage readings).

b. lmproper

selting of temper-

ature

control for prevailing

environmental

and usage

conditions.

circulation.

Ventilation

around

conden

ser

is blocked.

Condenser fan

is defective

Condenser

is dirty.

d. AC

circuit to condenser

fan

is defective

(high

wattage

readings,

unit

may be cycl-

ing on

the overload

protec-

tor).

Compressor motor defective

(high wattage

readings. Unit

may

be cycling

on the overload

protector).

High resistance

contacts or too

many broken

wire strands in

compressor

motor AC circuit

(high wattage readings, unit

may be cycling

on the overload

protector).

Overload protector defective

(normal

wattage

readings).

Too

much warm food

placed

unit

at one time.

May be cycling

on overload.

Air

Replace.

Reset control.

Check and advise cus-

tomer.

Replace.

Advise customer that it

must be cleaned

at least

periodically.

Refer to wiring diagrams

and

check circuit.

Replace.

Check

and replace broken

part.

Refer

to wiring diagrams

and

check

circuit.

Replace.

Advise customer.

7-5

TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSE REMEDY

M. Unit runs and cycle

about normally. Both

compadmenls cool-

ing,

but

not enough.

1. Defective or misadjusted

tem-

perature

control. 1. Adjust

control or replace if nec-

essary.

N. Unit runs and cycles.

Refrigerator is normal

but freezer is not cold

enough

(normal

wat-

tage

readings).

Poor freezer

door seal.

2. Freezer

air baffle control setting

too warm.

3. Room temperature too cold.

4. Excessive freezer door

openings.

5. Too much warm food

placed

freezer at one time.

6. Few refrigerator door openings

(low

usage in low ambient tem-

ratu

re).

7. Check for refrigerant leaks.

1. Adjust door

or replace if neces-

sary.

2. Reset control. For proper set-

ting see "Freezer Cold

Control".

3. Advise customer.

4. Advise cuslomer.

5. Advise customer.

6. Advise customer.

Repair or replace.

O. Run

time normal.

Re-

frigerator compad-

ment is not cold

enough but freezer

compartment is nor-

mal or

possibly

colder

than normal.

1, Air flow

problem. Check and remove what

causing the restriction.

"Air

Flow Diagram".

See

Sweating but refriger-

ator and freezer are

working normally oth-

erwise.

P. Interior sweating.

a. Bad door seals.

b. Excessive door openings

during hot humid weather.

c. Storage of excessive un-

covered liquids especially

if they are inserted into re-

frigerator while warm.

Exterior sweating,

a. Divider

channel

healer wire

open.

b. Void

in insulation.

Overcharged

d. Bad door seals.

e. Condenser fan not running.

f. Suction line touching the

cabinet.

Wet insulation.

Replace.

Advise

customer.

Advise

customer.

a. Replace.

b. Check and add insulation if

possible.

c. Evacuate

system and re-

charge

with

proper

amount

of refrigerant.

d. Replace.

e. Check fan motor and re-

place part

needed.

f. Bend line so it does nol

touch.

Replace"

a. Excessive dehy-

dration of foods. L Condition requires

covering

food.

2. Sublimation

of ice cubes is nor-

mal in no frost freezers but

should not be a problem in

these units equipped with cov-

ered ice storage bins.

1. Advise customer.

2. Advise customer

7-6

TROUBLE POSSIBLE

CAUSE REMEDY

R. Excessively

noisy

but

works

normally

other-

wise.

1. Refrigerator

not level or firmly

setting on

all four corners.

Structural

weakness

in floor.

Compressor mounling defec-

tive.

Poor

tubing

dress.

Compressor

operation

is noisy

due

to inherent

conditions.

Unit

base

mounting loose.

Defrost

water

pan

raltles.

Freezer

or condenser

fan is

noisy.

May have defective

mo-

tor.

Containers

inside refrigerator

rattle.

1. Level

the unit,

lower

the level-

ing legs if necessary

to make

sure thal unit is firmly

on the

floor.

2. Advise

customer.

3. Check

and replace

necessary.

4. Adjust tubes so they do not

touch.

5. Advise

customel.

6. Tighten

loose

part

or parts.

7. Adjust

pan

or install

foam

pad

if necessary.

8. Replace.

Advise customer

S. Defrost water dis-

posal problem. 1. Water frozen in drain trough

(defective

defrost

timer,

radiant

heater

or defrost

thermostat),

2. Restriction

drain system.

3. May

need heater

kit

installed in

evaporator

pan.

4. Separation

of heat

exchanger.

1. Replace

defective

part

or parts.

2. Clean

drain system.

3. Check

and

install

pad

if needed.

4. Install Heat Exchanger

Sepa-

ration

Kit, RA43302.

7-7

M/\YTAG SECTION

SCHEMATICS

INDEX

8-1

WIRE

CODE

COLOR CODE

R€O RO

WHITE WH

gLACX aLx

BLUE BLU

YELLOW

SROWN BR

ORANGE OR

GREEN GR

GRAY

PI NX PK

TAN TX

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow

percent

tolerance

on all resistances SCHEMATIC WIRING DIAGRAM

RADIANT

HEATER

JRe

cono

DIVIOE

HEATER

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

CABINET

LIGHT

SWITCH

DIVIDER

HEATER

SWITCH

t----:-

CAPACITOR

SEE

SERIAL

PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBER

WATER VALVE

RECEPTACLE

I LJJ LINE CORD

/ COMPRESSOR

\\|/

DEFROST

MERI

\l/

OVERLOAD

CAUTION

This information

is intended

for use bv

qualified

service

personnel

only. Repairs

perlormed

fer'sons

unfamiliar

with thjs product,

could result in rdd-uced

performance

or a safety hazard.

DIVIO€R

CHANNEL

HEATER

WIRE

r------------'l

Rp<

.-LD-.] tCf, ilAXER

I lflrlixrrcrn

!! __ _+>_w_[

L-_i:gt'r__io.'#@*s

iGR WATER VALV

= LIGHT

swrTcH

DEFROST

TIMER

OEF

- uEr

FREEZER

FAN THER

t:fltGt

5.0

oz.

8-2

M.de,

RTC!5/

wrRE

cooF

COLOR co0E

RED RO

WHITF WH

ELACI BLX

BLU€ BLU

BROIYN 8R

ORANG€ ofi

GREEN GR

GRAY GY

PIIIX PX

TAN

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow 10

percent

tolerance

on all resistances SCHEMATIC WIRING

DIAGRAM

* grYr qEs

J*E Ar! B SWrLc!

SEE

SERIAL

PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBE

ICE MAKER

RECEPTACLE

WATER VALVE

RECEPTACLE

STti FAN,MoroR

DEFROST

THERMOST

./' I

COMPRESSOR

*-=

OEFROST

TI MER RUN L

CAPACITOR

1,/

\t/

-\ l-'

CAUTION

This

information

is intended

for

use

qualified

service

personnel

only. Repairs

performed

fersons

unlamiliar

with this-

product

could result

in njdirced performance

or a

safety hazard.

8-3

DIVID€R

CHANNEL

HEATER

WIRE

r---- - - - - - - - -'1

| | wH .-wH

.Lo_.j tcf, maKER

'-i--i:gY--fo.'#@***

IEn WATER

VALVE

v (WHEN

usED)

= LTGHT caBtNFT

DEFROST

TIMER

FREEZER

FAN

CONOENSER

FAN

l COftlPREsS0R

\ rl

t.t. it

\:l

t.. tl ,

t.. i

tl-'

Itrltctl

5.0

oz.

,,,.de,

RTSIT/

wrRE

COOE

COLOR co0E

REO RO

WHITE WH

ELACX 8LX

gLUE BLU

YELLOIV

BROWN BR

OfiANGE OR

GREEN GR

GRAY GY

TAN TX

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow

percent

tolerance

on all resistances

SCHEMATIC WIRING

DIAGRAM

RADIANT

HEATER

rJRe t

__.tcoao

ICE

MAKER

RECEPTACLE

WATER

VALVE

RECEPTACLE

FAN MOTOR DIVIOER HEATER

SIVITCH

r---: - - - :-- - -;:-- - - - :

REFRI

SEE

SERIAL PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBEF

;P,

DIVIDE

HEATER

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

CABINET

LIGHT

/ *jl*"

r rnir DIVIDER

sliiiiu !fifIF,T

LINE

CORD

->l

,tlI

COMPRESSOR

)caPActroR

DEFROST

TIMERI

\l/'

-\ v

OVERLOAD

CAUTION

This information

is intended

tor use by

qualified

service

personnel

only. Repairs

performed

6erbons

unlamiliar

with th-is

product

bould result in re'dirced

pedormance

or a safety hazard.

OIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

WIRE

r------------'l

I l-![------r

.l_D_.I tc€ TAKER | ..---'

' I ll|rafltl.lFnl ,TN .TNf-\w

| 'iEffi&Hr gu,,;ry$*sru

L---T----- -i

IOn WATER

VALVE

v (WHEN

usED)

= LTGHT caBtNFT

t'J'9fJ'

n[frt'jT5'

FREEZER

FAN THERMOSTAT

CONDENSER

FAN

'17

8-4

i,.de,

RTCIT/

DIVIDE R

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow 10

percent

tolerance

on all

resistances

ICE MAKER

RECEPTACLE

SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM

DIVIDER HEATER

SIYITCH

r-**:- ;Li--

RUN L

CAPACITOR

SEE

SERIAL PLATE

FOR

SERIES NUMBE

,:;*qmffi^

.flB,#F'

,\i?fJ,

!#iF$

WATER VALVE

RECEPTACLE

->l

,,, I

COMPRESSOR v/

;,P, .t. I

t.. i

CAPACITOR

\1,'

-\l/

DEFROST

lr/

\t\ l./

OVERLOAD

CAUTION

Thls

information is intended for use by qualified

service

personnel

only.

Repairs

performed

persons

unlamlliar

with this product could result in reduced

performance

or a safety hazard.

8-5

WIRE

CODE

COLOR co0E

REO RD

WHITF WH

ACX BLX

ELUE BLU

YELLOW

BROWI{ 8R

ORANG€ OR

GRE€N GR

GRAY GY

Ptt|x Pt(

TAN TN

r I llEofi L|e}{T | |

DEFROST

TIMER

----5- oehsr

FREEZER

FAN THERMOSTAT

CONDENSER

FAN

ltrltc

5.0 oz

M.de,

RTDIT/

PICTORTAL WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow 10

percent

tolerance

on all

resistances

1 HEATER

r26Ar

SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM

J'Rr

CORD

ICE MAKER

RECEPTACLE _,qryr

gEs

JE arg 8. swrlc

CAPACITOR

SEE

SERIAL PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBER.

DIVIDE R

HEATER

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL .'-',i,t'iJ"

!'#?:t$

WATER VALVE

RECEPTACLE

\,:

\I F

.\ LINE CORO

.->l

-tl

lt'.,

lsucT

\ t'n

Kv/

CAPACITOR

t-=

OEFROST

TIMER O/ERLOAO

\1,/

\-\ L'

CAUTION

This information

is intended

for use

by qualified

service

personnel

only. Repairs

performed

ier-sons

unfamiliar

with thjs product could result in rddlced pertormance

or a

safety hazard.

CHANNEL

HEATER

UIIRE

r---- - - - - - - - -'l

arwH

I i wH ..wH

---

,LD_.l tCE

XAf(ER '

'-i--rW--io:g@u*

L __**

__ ___ _[ -le.V/ -'.

Icn WATER

VALVE

.,l/ (WHEN

USED)

Y '-"-

= LIGHT CABINET

SWITCH nL|GHTS

DEFROST

TIMER

CONOENSER

FAN

WIRE 'ODF

COLOR cooE

REO RO

WHITE WH

ALACK 8LX

ALUE 8LU

YELLOW

EROWN BR

ORANGE oi

GREEN GR

GRAY GY

Frxx PK

TAN Tll

IrrltGtl

5.0

oz. R

8-6

,,.de,

RTSIgI

PICTORIAL

WIRING DIAGRAM

Allow 10

percent

tolerance

on all

resistances SCHEMATIC

WIRING DIAGRAM

OIVIOER HEATER

SWITCH

O/ERLOAD

ICE MAKER

RECEPTACLE

RADIANT

HEATER

?!Ar

IREFRIC

. uRr{Ess

I ExtiD

' LINER

(t----t

I TEMPERATURE

,/ -

I corvrRol / |

,17

DIVIDE R

I HEATER

WATER VALVE

RECEPTACLE

LINE

CORD

COMPRESSOR

\ -"'"

CAFACITOR

SEE

SERIAL

PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBET

otPRESSOI

t..!

'.. )l

*-=-1,'

DEFROST

TI MER

\\ l,'

CAUTION

This information

is intended

for

use by

qualified

service

personnel

only. Repairs

performed

perbons

unfamiliar

with thjs product

could result

in redlced performance

or a safety

hazard,

L - - - - - -l- - - jEgl-tr$L - -l - -,i

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

WIRE

llwfl

I l^G g^t|iE I

.LD-.I lCf, l|AfGF i ,-r

' I lffiEtrro€Dl FU)IN{g:}w-t!,t

L ---*----- -i "\14\.J

Ien WATER VALVE

9 (WHEN

USEDI

+ trcxr CABINET

SWITCH NLIGHTS

OEFROST

THERMOSTAT

COI,I0ENSER

IVIRE CODE

COLOR coo€

RED RO

WHITE WH

BLACX gLl(

BLUE etu

YELLOW

sowN ER

ORANGE OR

GREEI{ GR

PII{K

rAN TT

Irl tG

5.0 oz. I

8-7

D'.de,

RTCIgI

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow 10

percent

tolerance

on all resistances

I RADIANT

ICE

MAKER

RECEPTACLE FAN

MOTOR.

SCHEMATIC WIRING

DIAGRAM

REFRIGEF

-----

(

DIVIDER

HEATER

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL ' ,.J,ffJ,

!i#TF$

WATER

VALVE

RECEPTACLE

lL, Lr

NEIC0RD

. .->l

SEE

SERIAL PLATE FOR

SERIES NUMBER.

RUN'

CAPACITOR

d-'-

-f

DEFROST

TIMERI

\|,

-- -Jr'

CAUTION

This

information

is intended

for use by quatified

sewice

personnel

only. Repairs

performed

ierbons unfamiliar

with th-is.

ploduct could result in reidlced

performance

or a satety

hazard.

WIRE CODE

COLOR cooE

REO RO

WXITE tl{

BLACI( 8LK

ALUE ELU

YELLOW

sowfl OR

Of,AI'Gf, m

GREEII GR

GN Y GY

Flix Pt(

TAN tx

?J,Re t

ffi:"i1-t

DIVIO€R

CHANNEL

HEATER

WIRE

t-------'aTTE:1!

| ,,

' l-![----

.Lo_.; rct rgt6n | ^'

- ! lsfrtt gEol irr{ ..rN/!rrYr

i--iP--f':J6*u

iGR WATER

VALVE

v (WHEN

usED)

Y ItnE

+ -t=!-o.u CABINET

swrrcH niicTis

LTGHT fn-eeZ

TEM'ERAT'RE

swlrcH lroxi

DEFROST

CONDENSER

OVERLOAD

| 0rscl

11 Ll

l:tl tc:

5.0

oz.

8-8

,,.de,RTDlg

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow 10

percent

tolerance

on all

resistances

ICE

MAXER

RECEPTACLE

SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM

REFRIGI

SEE SERIAL

PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBEI

LIGHT

swrTcH

->l

at 'l

/ COMPRESSOR

-^-

| /Y-

lsucn0N

\ .,n.,

t/'

Kv/

R,/

CAPACITOR

L-=

DEFROST

TIMER

lr'

\1,

\ --t' t;

CAUTION

This information is intended for use by quallfied

service

personnel

only.

Repalrs

performed

persons

unlamiliar

with this product

could

result in reduced

performance

ol a safety

hazard.

8-9

CHANNEL

CABINET

LIGHTS

._ __

SWITCH urOxi

TEMPERATURE

cor{PFilsER

8t"i?EF

/Wh

rEupERntuRe ,/ 5

co'waot / ^l

tl,'u',|r6'

t'J'ffJ'

wtRE coffi

co{oR cooE

REO RD

WHITE WH

BLACX BLX

ELUE BLU

YELLOW

8f,OWN BR

OfiAXGE OR

GREEI{ GR

GRAY GY

lat rx

,,.de,RTD2l/

PICTORIAL

WIRING DIAGRAM

Allow

percent

tolerance

on all

resistances

ICE

MAKER MOTOR I

REcEpracLE

/._t I

SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM REFRIGI

Ir-

FAN MOTOR

Foun'rN

tflBu'$Ft

r,o[r*^X^

r"i,?iJ, ,-"J"yi-

sATiix

D"'JI?EE

\.o-z\LrGH/ SWtic-x

rrzrn

DIVIDE R

HEATE

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

CHI LOPROOF

swrTcH

lsucTt0N

\.'".,

SELECTOR

swrTcH

ICE I/|AXER

VALVE

soLENOro

t I

->,/ 1l

\. 1

'.'.'.i

'tf -

I rlrrlt

I s.o o

SEE SERIAL PLATE

FOR

SERIES I

CAUTION

This

information

is intended

for use bv

qualified

service

personnel

only. Repairs

performed

ferbons

unlamiliar

with this product_

could result in rddirced

performance

or a safety hazard.

Z/-CONDENSER

)'9"o*?

-DEFROST

HnME(J

8-10

Mode,RTW2"

CONDENSEI

FAN MOTOR

WIRE

CODE

COLOR co0E

RLO RO

WHITE WH

8L ACX gLX

ALUE EIU

ELLOW

EROWrl 8R

ORANGE OR

GR€EN GR

GRAY GY

PIH

XPX

TAN Ttl

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow 10

percent

tolerance

on all resistances SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM

SEE

SERIAL

PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBET

ICE MAKER

RECEPTACLE

I RADIANT

| -54.ttEI FAN

MoroR

IVIDE

HEATE R

/*/

reueeRarune

coNTROl- i/

CABINET

LIGHT

WATER

VALVE

RECEPTACLE

\1,

COMPRESSOR v/

T,P'

,tl

CAPACITOR

CAUTION

This information

is intended

for use by

qualified

service

personnel

only. Repairs

performed

persons

unfamiliar

with this product

could result

in retlced performance

or a safety hazard.

L------L-*!q$$m- |

OVIO€R

CHANNEL

HEATER

WIRE

rt'l9iJr tT;t*Ttt

OEFROST

TIMER

CONOENSER

8-11

,,.de,RTD23

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow

percent

tolerance

on all resistinces

=:-.-T .-

SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM

OVERLOAD RUN

CAPACITOR

SEE

SERIAL

PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBER.

|.:-

rcr

uaxen

RECEPTACLE.

I x FN€SS

6!xrN0

LrxEn

FREEZER

LIGHT

lct

-r

swrrcx)

NPftEI /

_)i#

coiMlG

YIT*#.'l,wyr

RUN

/CAPACITOR

)

\L/-

CAUTION

This information

is Intended

for use

by quallfied

service

pe.rsornel

only. Repairs

performed

persons

unfimiliar

wrtn th_ts.

proctuct

could result in redtced performance

or a safety hazard.

r------------1

| | wH ..WH

lr---

EL.L0-.1 tcE

tAxER i ,--r

I l|lerqrrcDltl iTN -TNt-\Wl.l - W

L-

iigT]--io:g@.ur

Ien WATER

VALVE

Y (WHEN

USED}

= LtcHT

swrTcH (|)REFR|G.

LTGHTS

DEFROST

TIMER

DEF -- --.:rj- oeffisr

FREEZER

FAN THERMOSTAT

8-12

,|,.de,RSC20

PICTORIAL

WIRING DIAGRAM

Allow 10

percent

tolerance

on all

resistances

t{ iil€ss r

EHtfro

LITER

SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM REFI

,LINE

CORD

-----^,

FREEZER

LIGHT

swrTcH>

":"Y

Gdm

'----1\

:'i n

'..L-----

-rl

_)i

)PTC

RELAY

OVERLOAD RUN

CAPACITOR

SEE SERIAL

PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBER.

CAUTION

Thls

lnformation is intended

for use bv qualified

service

personnel

only.

Repairs

performed

iersons unfamiliar

with thls product

could

result

in reduced

perlormance

or a safety

hazard.

r-- --

| | WH ..WH

---

.Lo_.l tcf f,at(ER ,

.i--iW'__io,,g@',u+

IAA WATER

VALVE

WAI LIT YFLV

Y (WHEN

usEo)

= LIGHT UPPER

LIGHT rneeZ

SwlTcH LtGii

TEMPERATURE

DEFROST

TIMER

CONDENSER

8-13

,,.de,RSD20

i ICE MAKER

RECEPTACLE

FREEZER

L|GHT

swrTcH2

,*y

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow t0 percent

tolerance

on all resistances

=-.7 I

HANrlESS

EH|l{0

SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM

OVERLOAD

PTC

RELAY

SEE

SERIAL

PLATE FOR

SERIES

NUMBER.

LINER

LINE

CORD

\ CONMTq

Y:-"'^,

--l t

\_/-

aur.r

CAPACITOR

.._ij.f

---

CAUTION

This information

is intended

for

use

qualified

service

personnel

only. Repairs

performed

ier'sons

unfamiliar

with th-is

product_

could result in reiCirced

performance

or a safety hazard.

r-- --

I r wH ..wH

e{_Dj rcf, ilAxEF

.-i--:H'__fo:;$vr*

iGR WATER

VALVE

(WHEN

USED}

Y I

wrrsrt veEv,

F -t=!-olt uPPER

swrTcH 6ner-nrc.

Lionrs

LIGHT FR-EEZ

TEMpERAT,RE

swlrcH lteni

RUN

8-14

,L.de,RSD22A

rcE

MAKER I

<'o'Y'-t,

i=.

ice r,raxen

REC

E PTACLE

RADIANT

HEATERS

23n

_ sry_-

^:._ 1^ \FRzr-rGHr

FREEZER

REFR|G.

L|GHI

H NE$

EHIiO

L IIEF

.\--6

-1 i^(ttt

-..

PtgToRtAL

WtRtNG

DTAGRAM

Allow

percent

tolerance

att ieslsiinces SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM REFRIC

SELECTOR

RUN L

CAPACITOR

SEE

SERIAL

PLATE

FOR

SERIES

NUMBE

CHILDPROOF

SWITCH

OVERLOAD

WATEROISP

(LO\fER)

REFRIG.

LIGHT

;ATER

WIRE

2940.Cl

FOUNTAIN

LIGHT

'swrTcH

swrTcri

S€LECTOR

swrTcH

SOLENOID

aLr

)

rotnrFt€D

\ cq&cor

t icinoeisrn i ,

\ ', F!0t

_--ii\l

:a\ll

-i* -

\-I-l

OEFRO

TIMER

\. I or'!"f

\- Dtscoill{EcT

CAUTION

This

information

is intended

for use

qualified

service

pg.r.so.lTel

only. Repairs performed

feisons untlmitiai

wrrn

tn-ts.

product

could result

in red-uced performance

a safety

hazard,

AQ.T..-uAJoR f e,_* A;- wH

_ __

SWITCH urOxi

TEMP€RATURE

8-15

i,.de,RSW22

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow

percent

tolerance

on all

resistances

HAF

iEss ,

EH|l{O

LINER

SCHEMATIC

WIRING

DIAGRAM

CONTROL

NR€SS

trxtio

Ltlfl

FREEZER

LIGHT

swrrcn)

lu"ftel /

| {ARRESS

aExrto

I uf,fF

CAHLU

mEl

ffi

trtlrF

\ cilm

--\

v\l z-

\l -'

CAUTION

This information

is intended for use by qualified

service

personnel

only.

Repairs

performed

perbons

unfamiliar

with this product could result in re-dLced

pedormance

or a safety hazard.

OVERLOAD CAPACITOR

SEE SERIAL

PLATE

FOR

SERIES NUMBER.

.E_D_.I tcE UAKER | "

'ilxHilTdr

_ fo3$@.+xo

- -- *jfi - - - - -'J ilil,.S,-y3r.y,.

Y I

wnEt! ui

* utcxt uppER

SWITCH r.)REFRIG.

LIGHTS

SWITCH l,CXt

RATURE LI

8-1

,,.de,RSD24A

ICE MAKER I

{Y-''t

[!q

rq. \

.Et

frm

l5/

PICTORIAL

WIRING

DIAGRAM

Allow 10

percent

tolerance

on all resistances

6p652gp REFRTG.

F3!-- .-

- - ={tr u,qn

MAKER ]JTA I

SCHEMATIC WIRING DIAGRAM REFRIGEI

PLEASE

TO ITS

SEE

SERIAL

PLATE FOR

SERIES NUMT

(LosER)

R€FRIG.

LIGHT

WIRE

2940Jr!

FOUNTAIII.I

LIGHT

'swtTcH

swtTcfl

RADIANT

HEATERS

rtr 4-

ot.

--\

-/l I

\tu

CAUTION

This information

is intended

for

use bv

oualified service

personnel

only. Repairs

performed

iersons

unfamiliar

with thjs product

could

result

in redirced

performance

salety

hazard.

UNTAIN

HEATER

LrcHr

s'tvrrcH _FppM3lN

CHILOPROOF

swrTcH

LIGHT UPPER

SWITCH (I]IREFRIG.LIGHTS

DEFROST

8-17

i,.de,RSW24

f-.

i --.

SECTION 9

SPECIFICATIONS

INDEX

9-1

RTCl5A

POWER REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

do n.

oPERATTNG AMPS.

(MAX) 6.6

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE R-1 2(02) 5.0

G0MPRESS0R 0rL

CHARGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRESSOR 690 BTU

CABINET

LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

OOOR TINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET

INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-Oul

(Plus

or Minus

1.5'F)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or Minus

1.5oF)

23"F

330F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY TUBE

Length

Diameter 5.5 ft.

026"

t.D

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

minus

6oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or minus

6oF) + 47"F

150F

DEFROST TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrosl Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

HRS.

(rorAL)

MtN.

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watts 31

400

DEFR0ST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL HEATER

Ohms

Watts 1

323

-t/z''

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The

laboratory test

data in this chart was

obtained under the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115V AC,60 Hz,

(2)

door openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set at mid-point. The

pressures

and wattages

shown were taken:

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with freezer

temperature

near OoF

(refrigerator

temperature,

if applicable, near

+38oF), (c)

no sooner than

5 minutes

after compressor

start-up. In the home,

measurements will vary

depending

upon environmental

and

usage

conditions.

70"F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

o/o

Operating

Time

KWH/24 Hours

Suction Pressure

(psig)

High Side Pressure

(psig)

Running Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

00-1 20

65-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

30-1

165-210

100

3.8-4"9

0-4

140-170

55-200

9-2

RTS17A

POWER

REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

oPERATTNG

AMPS.

(MAX) o.o

REFRTGERANT CHARGE

R-12(02) 5.U

coMPRESSoR

0rL GHARGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRE$SOR 690

BTU

CABINET

LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR

LINERS HIGH

IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET

INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE CONTROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-Out

(Plus

or Minus 1.5"F)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or Minus 1.SoF)

+ 230F

+ 330F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

Length

Diameter

5.5

ft.

.026" LD

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

minus

6'F)

Cut-ln

(Plus

minus

6"F) + 47"F

+ 150F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost

Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

FUNS 6

HRS,

(rorAL)

MtN.

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watts

400

DEFRoST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Watts

'1323

PERFORMANCE

TEST DATA

The laboratory

test data in

this chart

was

obtained

under

the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115V

AC,60 Hz,

(2)

no door openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set at

mid-point, The

pressures

and

wattages shown

were taken:

(a)

during

a normal running cycle, (b) with treezer temperature

near OoF

(ref

rigerator

temperature,

if applicable,

near

*38oF),

(c)

sooner

than 5

minutes

after

compressor

start-up.

In the home,

measurements

will vary depending

upon environmental

and

usage

conditions.

70"F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

Operating

Time

KWH|?

Hours

Suction

Pressure

(psig)

High Side

Pressure

(psig)

Running Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

1 00-1 20

65-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

30-1

165-210

100

3.8-4.9

o-4

140-170

1 5s-200

9-3

POWER

REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

60 Hz

oPERATTNG

AMPS.

(MAX) b.b

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE

R-12(02) qn

G0MPRESS0R

0rL

CHARGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRESSOR 690

BTU

CABINET

LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET INSULATION FOAM

RTCl7A

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-Out

(Plus

Minus

1.soF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

Minus 1.5oF)

+ 230F

+ 330F

GONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

Length

Diameter 5.5 fr.

.026" t.o.

DEFROST THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

or minus 6oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or minus 6oF) + 470F

+ 15"F

DEFROST TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS 6 HRS.

(rorAL)

21 MIN,

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watts 31

400

DEFRoST AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL HEATER

Ohms

Watts 1 323

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The

laboratory test data in this chart was obtained under

the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source of 115V AC,60 Hz,

(2)

no door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s) set at

mid-point. The

pressures

and wattages shown were taken:

(a)

during

a normal running cycle, (b) with treezer temperature

near 0"F (refrigerator

temperature, if applicable,

near

*38oF),

(c)

sooner than 5 minutes after compressor

start-up.

ln the

home,

measurements will vary

depending upon environmental and

usage conditions.

70"F

(Ambient) 900F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

% Operating Time

KWH/24 Hours

Suction Pressure

(psig)

High

Side

Pressure

(psig)

Running

Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

100-120

65-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

1 30-1 50

165-210

100

3.8-4.9

0-4

140-170

1 55-200

9-4

RTDl7A

POWER REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

oPERATTNG

AMPS.

(MAX) o.o

REFRTGERANT CHARGE

R-12(02) c.u

G0MPRESS0R

0rL CHARGE

(02) EE

COMPRESSOR 690

BTU

CABINET

LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET

INSULATI0I'l FOAM

TEMPERATURE CONTROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-O0t

(Plus

Minus 1.5oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

Minus 1.5oF)

+ 230F

+ 33.F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

Length

Diameter 5.5

fr.

026"

t.D.

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

minus 6oF)

Curln

{Plus

minus 6oF) + 470F

+ 150F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS 6

HRS.

(rorAL)

MlN.

DEFROST

HEATER

Ohms

Watls

400

DEFRoST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Watts 1323

PERFORMANCE

TEST DATA

The laboratory

test data

in this chart

was obtained under

the

following conditions:

(1)

power

source of 115V

AC,60 Hz,

(2)

no door openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set at mid-point.

The

pressures

and

wattages shown

were taken:

(a)

during

a normal running cycle, (b) with lreezer temperature

near OoF

(ref

rigerator

temperature,

if applicable,

near

*38oF),

(c)

no sooner

than 5

minutes

after

compressor

start-up.

In the home, measurements

will vary depending

upon environmental

and

usage conditions.

700F

(Ambient) 900F

(Ambient) 110"F

(Ambient)

o/o

Operating

Time

KWH|24 Hours

Suction

Pressure

(psig)

High Side

Pressure

(psig)

Running

Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

00-1

65-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

30-1

165-210

100

3.8-4.9

0-4

140-170

155-200

9-5

POWER REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

60 Hz

0PERATTNG

AMPS.

(MAX) o.o

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE R-1 2(02) 5.0

G0MPRESS0R

otL

CHARGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRESSOR 775 BTU

CABIiIET LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR

LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET INSULATION FOAM

RTSl9A

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-Out

(Plus

or Minus

1.SoF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or Minus

l.SoF)

+ 230F

+ 33.F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

Length

Diameter 8 ft.

.036" t.D.

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

or minus

6"F)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or minus

6oF) + 47"F

150F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost

Time

AIIEh

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

8 HRS,

(rorAL)

MrN.

DEFROST

HEATER

Ohms

Watts 28

450

DEFR0ST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Watls I ozo

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The laboratory

test

data in this

chart was

obtained

under the

following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115v

Ac,60 Hz,

(2)

door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set

at mid-point.

The

pressures

and wattages

shown

were

taken:

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with freezer

temperature

near OoF

(ref

rigerator

temperature,

if applicable,

near

*38"F),

(c)

sooner

than

5 minutes

after compressor

start-up. In

the home,

measurements

will vary

depending

upon

environmental

and

usage

conditions.

700F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

o/o

Operaling

Time

KWH/24

Hours

Suction Pressure (psig)

High

Side Pressure

(psig)

Running

Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

100-120

165-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

130-150

165-210

100

3.8-4.9

0-4

140-170

1 55-200

9-6

RTC19A

POWER REOUIREMENT 1

IqVAC

60 Hz

oPERATTNG

AMPS.

(MAX) 6.6

REFRTGERANT

GHARGE

R-1 2(02) c.u

coMPBES$oR 0rL CHAnGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRESSOR 775 BrU

CABINET

LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR LINERS HIGH

IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE CONTROL

(At

Normal)

CutQut

(Plus

Minus

1.5'F)

Cut-ln

(Plus

Minus

1.SoF)

23"F

33oF

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

Length

Diameter 8ft.

.036" r.D.

DEFROST THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

or minus 6"F)

Cut-ln

(Plus

minus

6oF) + 47"F

150F

DEFROST TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS 8 HRS.

(rorAL)

8 HRS,

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watts

450

DEFR0ST AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Watts 1

323

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The

laboratory

test data

this

chart

was

obtained under the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source of 1 15V

AC,

60 Hz,

(21

no door openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer control(s) set at

mid-point. The

pressures

and

wattages

shown were taken:

(a)

during a normal running

cycle,

(b)

with

lreezer temperature near

00F

(refrigerator

temperature,

if applicable, near

+380F),

{c)

no sooner than 5 minutes

after compressor

start-up.

In the home, measurements

will vary

depending upon environmental

and usage conditions.

70"F

(Ambient) 900F

(Ambient) 110"F

(Ambient)

Operating Time

KWH|24 Hours

Suction Pressure

(psig)

High

Side

Pressure

(psig)

Running Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

1 00-1 20

1 65-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

1 30-1 50

165-210

100

3.8-4.9

o-4

140-174

55-200

9-7

RTDl9A

POWER

REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

60 Hz

0PERATIl'lG

AMPS.

(MAx) 6.6

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE R-12(02) c.u

C0MPRESS0R 0tL

CHARGE

(02)

COMPRESSOR //c E tu

CABINET LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR

LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

(At

Normal)

CulOut

(Plus

or Minus 1.SoF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or Minus

1.SoF)

+230F

+ 330F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY TUBE

Length

Diameter 8fl.

,036" t.D.

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

or minus 6oF)

Cut- ln

(Plus

minus

6oF) + 47"F

150F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost

Cycle

Defrost Time

ATIEh

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

8 HRS.

(rorAL)

23 MtN.

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watts

450

DEFRoST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL HEATER

Ohms

Watts I JZJ

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The laboratory

test

data

this

chart was

obtained

under the

following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115v AC,60 Hz,

(2)

door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set

at mid-point.

The

pressures

and

wattages

shown were

taken:

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with treezer

temperature

near OoF

(ref

rigerator

temperature,

applicable,

near

*38oF),

(c)

sooner than

5 minutes

after

compressor

start-up. In

the home,

measurements

will vary

depending

upon

environmental

and

usage conditions.

700F

(Ambient) 900F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

o/o

Operating

Time

KWH|24

Hours

Suction

Pressure

(psig)

High

Side Pressure

(psig)

Running

Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

00-1 20

65-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

30-1

165-210

100

3.8-4.9

0-4

140-170

155-200

9-8

RTD21A

POWER REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

60 Hz

oPERATTNG AMPS.

(MAX) 6.6

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE

R-1 2(02) 5.0

G0MPRESS0R orL

CHARGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRESSOR 893 BTU

CABINET LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

OOOR

LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET

INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

(At

Normal)

CufOut

(Plus

or Minus 1.5oF)

Ctit-ln

(Plus

or Minus 1.50F)

+23"F

330F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY TUEE

Length

Diameter I ft.

.036"

t.D.

DEFROST THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

or minus

6oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or minus

6oF) + 470F

+ 150F

DEFROST TIMER

Defrost

Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

8 HRS.

(rorAL)

MtN.

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watts 28

450

DEFRoST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Watts 1323

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The

laboratory test

data in this

chart was

obtained

under the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115V

AC,60 Hz,

(2)

door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set

mid-point.

The

pressures

and wattages

shown were

taken:

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with treezer temperature

near OoF

(ref

rigerator

temperature,

applicable, near

*38"F), (c)

no sooner than

minutes

after compressor

start-up. In the

home, measurements

will vary

depending

upon

environmental

and

usage conditions.

70"F

(Ambient) 900F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

Operaling Time

KWH|24 Hours

Suction Pressure

(psig)

High

Side

Pressure

(psig)

Running

Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

00-1 20

65-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

1 30-1

165-210

100

3.8-4.9

0-4

140-170

1 55-200

9-9

RTW22A

POWER

REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

0PERATTNG AMPS.

(MAX) 7.2

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE R-12(02) 5.0

coMPRESSoR

0rL CHARGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRESSOR 893 BTU

CABINET LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR

LI}IERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Onms

Watts NONE

CABINET

INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-Out

(Plus

Minus

1.SoF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

Minus

1.SoF)

+ 230F

33.F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

Lenglh

Diameler 8

tt.

.036"

t.D.

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

or minus 6oF)

Culln

(Plus

or minus

6oF) + 470F

150F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost

Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

8 HRS.

(rorAL)

MtN.

DEFROST

HEATER

Ohms

Watts 25

500

DEFRoST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL HEATER

Ohms

Watts I JZJ

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The laboratory

test

data in this chart was

obtained

under the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115V AC,60 Hz,

(2)

door openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set at mid-point. The

pressures

and wattages

shown were taken:

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with treezer ternperature

near 0"F (ref

rigerator

temperature,

applicable, near

38oF),

(c)

no sooner than

5 minutes

after compressor

start-up. ln

the home, measurements

will vary

depending

upon

environmental

and

usage

conditions.

700F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 110"F

(Ambient)

Operating Time

KWH/24

Hours

Suction Pressure

(psig)

High Side Pressure

(psig)

Running Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

00-1 20

1 65-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

30-1 50

165-210

100

3.8-4.9

0-4

140-170

55-200

9-1 0

RTD23A

POWER REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

60 Hz

0PERATTNG AMPS.

(MAX) 6.6

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE

R-l 2(02) 5.0

coMPRESS0R 0rL

CHARGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRESSOR 893 BTU

GABINET LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR

LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET IIISULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

(At

Normal)

CufOut

(Plus

or Minus 1.5"F)

Cut-ln

{Plus

or Minus

1.S"Fi

23.F

33"F

CONDENSEB FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY TUBE

Length

Diameter I ft.

036" t.D.

DEFROST THERMOSTAT

CufOut (Plus

or minus 6oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or minus

6'F)

+ 470F

15.F

DEFROST TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

HRS.

(rorAL)

MtN.

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watts

500

DEFRoST AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Walts 1

323

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The

laboratory test

data in this

chart was obtained

under the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source of 115V AC,60 Hz,

(2)

no door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set at mid-point. The

pressures

and wattages

shown were taken:

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with treezer temperature

near OoF

(refrigerator

temperature,

if applicable,

near

*38oF),

(c)

sooner than

minutes

after

compressor

start-up. In the

home, measurements

will vary

depending

upon

environmental

and

usage conditions.

70"F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

o/o

Operating Time

KWH|24

Hours

Suction Pressure

(psig)

High

Side

Pressure

(psig)

Running Watts

30-40

1.6-2.0

0-3

00-1

65-200

55-70

2.5-3.3

0-3

30-1 50

165-210

100

3.8-4.9

0-4

140-170

55-200

9-11

RSC2OA

POWER

REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

60 Hz

oPERATTNG

AMPS.

(MAX) 6.5

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE R-1

2(02) o.c

G0MPRESS0R

0tL CHARGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRESSOR 1092

BTU

CABIl.IET

LIIIER HIGH

IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR

TINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET Il,ISULATIO}I FOAM

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-Out

(Plus

Minus

1.5"F)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or Minus

1.5oF)

+22"F

+ 340F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY TUBE

Length

Diameter 8ft.

.031" r.D.

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

or minus

6oF)

Cut-ln

IPlus

or minus

6oF) +

40"F

100F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Oefrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

8 HRS,

(rorAL)

23 MtN.

DEFROST

HEATER

Ohms

Watts 1J

550

DEFR0ST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The laboratory

test

data in this

chart was

obtained

under

the

following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115v

AC,60 Hz,

(2)

door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set

at mid-point.

The

pressures

and wattages

shown

were taken: (a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with treezer temperature

near OoF

(refrigerator

temperature,

applicable,

near

*38oF),

(c)

sooner than

5 minutes

after

compressor

start-up.

In the

home, measurements

will

vary

depending

upon

environmental

and

usage

conditions.

70"F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 110"F

(Ambient)

o/o

Operating

Time

KWH|24

Hours

Suction Pressure

(psig)

High

Side Pressure

(psig)

Running

Watts

30-40

2.1-2.4

0-3

95-1 1

205-240

60-80

3.1-4.2

0-3

1 25-1

205-240

100

4.8-5.6

0-4

60-1

2Q5-240

9-12

RSD2OA

[- POWEB REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

60 Hz

0PERATTNG AMPS.

(MAX)

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE

R-1 2(02) o.c

G0MPRESS0R orl CHARGE

(02)

COMPRESSOR 1092

BTU

CABINET LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR

LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-Out

(Plus

or Minus 1.SoF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or Minus

1.SoFi

22"F

L EAFC

CONOENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

Length

Diameter 8ft.

031" r.D

DEFROST THERMOSTAT

CutOut (Plus

or minus

6oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or minus

6oF) + 400F

+ 100F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

8 HRS.

(TOTAL)

23 MtN.

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watls

550

DEFR0ST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The laboratory

test

data

this

chart

was

obtained

under the

following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115V

4C,60 Hz,

(2)

door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set at mid-point.

The

pressures

and wattages

shown

were

taken:

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with treezer temperature

near OoF

(refrigerator

temperature,

applicable, near

*38oF), (c)

sooner than 5 minutes

after compressor

start-up. ln the

home, measurements

will vary

depending

upon

environmental

and

usage

conditions.

70"F

(Ambient) 900F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

Operating Time

KWH|24

Hours

Suction Pressure

(psig)

High

Side

Pressure

(psig)

Running

Watts

30-40

2.1-2.4

0-3

95-1

205-240

60-80

3.1-4.2

0-3

'125-160

205-240

100

4.8-5.6

0-4

160-185

245-240

9-13

RSD22A

POWER REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

60 Hz

0PERATTNG AMPS.

(MAX) 6.5

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE R-1 2(02) 6.5

coMPRESS0R 0rL

CHABGE

(02) qA

COMPRESSOR 1092 BTU

CABINET LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR

LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUI,ITAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

GABINET INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE

GONTROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-Out

(Plus

Minus

1.5oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or Minus 1.SoF)

+ 200F

+ 35.F

GONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY TUBE

Length

Diameter 8ft.

.031"

t"D.

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

Cul-Out

(Plus

or minus

6oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or minus

6oF) + 400F

+ 100F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost

Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

8 HRS.

(rorAL)

MtN.

DEFROST

HEATER

Ohms

Watts 23

550

DEFR0ST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The

laboratory

test

data in this

chart

was

obtained

under

the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115V

AC,60 Hz,

(2)

door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set at mid-point.

The

pressures

and wattages

shown

were

taken:

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with f reezer temperature

near OoF

(ref

rigerator

temperature,

if applicable,

near

*38oF),

(c)

sooner than

5 minutes

after

compressor

start-up.

In the home,

measurements

will vary

depending

upon environmental

and

usage conditions.

700F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

% Operating

Time

KWH|?

Hours

Suction Pressure (psig)

High

Side Pressure

(psig)

Running

Watts

30-40

2.1-2.4

0-3

95-1 10

205-240

60-80

3.1-4.2

0-3

1 25-1

205-240

100

4.8-5.6

0-4

160-185

205-240

9-14

RSW22A

POWER REOUIREMENT 1 15VAC

60 Hz

0PERAT|NG

AMPS.

{MAX) 7.2

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE

R-1 2(02) o.J

G0MPRESS0R 0rL

CHARGE

(02) 8.5

COMPRESSOR 1092 BTU

CABIl'lET

LINER HIGH

TMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts 2940

4.5

CABINET INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE

COI,ITROL

(At

Normal)

Cut-Out

(Plus

Minus 1.5oF)

Cufln

(Plus

Minus

1.5oF)

+200F

+ 350F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY TUBE

Length

Diameter 8ft.

031" t.D

DEFROST THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

minus

6"F)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or minus

6oF) + 400F

+ 100F

DEFROST TIMER

Defrost

Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

8 HRS.

(rorAL)

23 MtN.

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watts 23

550

DEFRoST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHAN}IEL HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The laboratory

test

data in this chart was

obtained

under the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source of 115V AC,60 Hz,

(2)

no door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set at mid-point. The

pressures

and wattages

shown were

taken:

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with treezer temperature

near OoF

(refrigerator

temperature, if

applicable, near

* 38oF),

(c)

sooner

than

minutes

after

compressor

start-up. In the home,

measurements

will vary

depending

upon

environmental

and

usage conditions.

700F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 110"F

(Ambient)

% Operating Time

KWH/24

Hours

Suction Pressure

(psig)

High

Side Pressure

(psig)

Running Watts

30-40

2.1-2.4

0-3

95-1

205-240

60-80

3.1-4.2

0-3

1 25-1

205-240

100

4.8-5.6

0-4

1 60-1

205-240

9-15

POWER

REOUIREMENT 1 1sVAC

oPERATTNG

AMPS.

(MAX)

REFRTGERANT

CHARGE n-1

2(02) b./J

coMPRESSoR

0tL

CHARGE

(02) 8,5

COMPRESSOR 1092

BTU

GABIIIET LII.IER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

CABINET INSULATION FOAM

RSD24A

TEMPERATURE

C01'lTR0L

(At

Normal)

Cut-Out

(Plus

or Minus

1.SoF)

Cut-ln

(Pltrs

or Minus

1.SoF)

+ 230F

+ 360F

CONDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

Length

Diameter I fr.

.031" t.D.

DEFROST

THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

or minus

6oF)

Cutln

(Plus

or minus

6oF) +

40"F

100F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

8 HRS.

(rorAL)

MrN.

DEFROST

HEATER

Ohms

Watts 20

600

DEFRoST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The

laboratory

test

data

in this

chart was

obtained

under

the following

conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115V

AC,60 Hz,

(2)

door

openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s)

set

mid-point.

The

pressures

and

wattages

shown

were

takeni

(a)

during

a normal running

cycle, (b) with f reezer temperature

near OoF

(ref

rigeratoi

temperature,

applicable,

near

*38oF),

(c)

sooner

than

5 minutes

after

compressor

start-up. In

the

home,

measurements

will vary

depending

upon

environmental

and

usage

conditions.

700F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

% Operating

Time

KWH/24

Hours

Suction

Pressure (psig)

High

Side

Pressure

(psig)

Running

Watts

30-40

2.1-2.4

0-3

95-1 10

205-240

60-80

3.1-4.2

0-3

125-160

205-240

100

4.8-5.6

0-4

60-1 85

205-240

9-16

RSW24A

POWER

REOUIREMENT 1 lsVAC

60 Hz

0PERATTNG

AMPS.

(MAX)

REFBTGERANT CHARGE

R-1 2(02) 6.75

coMPRESSoR

0rL CHARGE

(02) b.J

COMPRESSOR 1092 BTU

CABINET LINER HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

DOOR LINERS HIGH IMPACT

LAMINATED

POLYSTYRENE

FOUNTAIN HEATER

Ohms

Watts 2940

4.5

CABINET

INSULATION FOAM

TEMPERATURE CONTROL

{At

Normal)

CuLOut

(Plus

or Minus 1.5oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

Minus

1.5oF)

+22"F

340F

C0l'IDENSER FAN

COOLED

CAPILLARY

TUBE

Length

Diameter 8ft.

031"

l.D

DEFROST THERMOSTAT

Cut-Out

(Plus

or minus 6oF)

Cut-ln

(Plus

or minus 6oF) + 400F

+ 100F

DEFROST

TIMER

Defrost Cycle

Defrost Time

AFTER

COMPRESSOR

RUNS

HRS.

(rorAL)

MtN.

DEFROST HEATER

Ohms

Watts

600

DEFRoST

AMPS.

(MAX.)

DIVIDER

CHANNEL

HEATER

Ohms

Watts NONE

PERFORMANCE

TEST

DATA

The laboratory

test data in this chart

was

obtained under

the following conditions:

(1)

power

source

of 115V AC,60 Hz,

(2)

no door openings,

(3)

no load,

(4)

customer

control(s) set at

mid-point, The

pressures

and

wattages

shown

were taken:

(a)

during

a normal running cycle, (b) with treezer temperature near OoF

(refrigerator

temperature, if applicable, near

*38oF), (c)

sooner

than 5 minutes after compressor

start-up. In

the home, measurements will

vary

depending upon

environmental and

usage conditions.

700F

(Ambient) 90"F

(Ambient) 1100F

(Ambient)

% Operating

Time

KWH/24 Hours

Suction

Pressure

(psig)

High Side

Pressure

(psig)

Running Watts

30-40

2.1-2.4

0-3

95-1

245-240

60-80

3.1-4.2

0-3

25-1 60

205-240

100

4.8-5.6

0-4

1 60-1 85

205-240

9-17

Maytagfridge56326

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