RT Stand User Manual

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Run Tank Stand User Manual
Robin Liu - Mech 2018
Feb 2018
1 Scope
This document does not provide the engineering analysis behind the design, but instead
just provides some insight into how to use the thing. If you are interested in a somewhat
outdated analysis, search on the drive for my work term report that I wrote on the subject.
This document does discuss the water jacket and load cell.
2 Consumables/Replaceables Quick Reference Guide
1. O Rings are -360 and -366 size. You need at least one of each.
2. All bolts that touch the vertical columns (except the bottom four) are 1/4-20, and
should be 1 long. Slightly longer or shorter is fine, but 1” is recommended. For
your sanity they should be fully threaded. By my count around 50 are required.
Accordingly, about 100 washers and 50 nuts are needed.
3. The bolts connecting the base plate to the legs are 3/8-16. They need to be at
least 2 inches long, plus or minus 0.25 (longer is ok, but becomes progressively more
annoying). The partially threaded 2” bolts with 1” threaded are good for this.
4. The bolts connecting the columns to the base plate are also 3/8-16. They should be
about 1.5 inches long.
5. Screws for the feet are #10-24, and at least 2” long
3 Full Bill of Materials
Item Name Item Description Suggested
Source
Quantity
Columns 1.5”x1.5”x1/8” steel angle, 7.5
feet in length
E3 4
Top plate 1’x1’x1/8” steel plate E3 1
Base plate 13”x24”x1/4” steel plate E3 1
Legs 1”x1”x1/8” square tube E3 2
Column support
brackets
1.5”x1.5”x1/8” steel angle, 1.5”
long
E3 4
Column
stiffening plates
12”x3”x1/8” steel plate E3 8
Top plate
brackets
1.5”x1.5”x1/8” steel angle, 1.25”
long
E3 4
Feet Rubber bumper with unthreaded
hole
McMaster-Carr14
Shield panels 12”x48”x1/4” polycarbonate
sheet
E3 4
1https://www.mcmaster.com/#9540k793/=1as9gh9
1
Feet fasteners #10-24, min 2” long, with
washers and nuts
E5 4
Leg fasteners 3/8-16, min 2” long, with washers
and nuts
Wherever 4
All other
fasteners
1/4-20, ideally 1” (1.5” ok), with
washers and nuts
Wherever 50 (100
washers)
Water jacket
sealing cap
Machined aluminum cap to seal
between the water jacket shell
and the run tank
Make it
ourselves
1
Water jacket
shell
6” OD/ 7.75” ID polycarbonate
tube, 36” length
McMaster-Carr21
Water jacket
inlet adapter
3D printed custom shape 3D Print centre
or WatIMake
1
Water jacket
outlet adapter
3D printed custom shape 3D Print centre
or WatIMake
1
O Ring - shell
side
-366 McMaster-Carr31
O Ring - tank
side
-360 McMaster-Carr41
Hose clamps 8” ones for the adapters around
the jacket, and minimum 1.5”
ones for the hose-to-adapter
connection
Home Depot,
McMaster-Carr5
4 large, 2
small
Some items are not mentioned in the table, such as the entire run tank assembly (for
obvious reasons), the inlet and outlet hoses (mostly because I don’t have those dimensions
on hand and you can easily replace them with pretty much anything as long as it’s flexible
enough and has the same size), and the load cell with associated material (it’s pretty self-
explanatory, just hang it by a threaded rod using nuts and stuff).
4 Assembly Reference
4.1 Stand Assembly
As much as possible, the stand should be left in an assembled or mostly assembled state.
There’s a lot of stuff to align so it’s best if it’s not moved around too much. The order of
assembly for the stand is roughly detailed:
1. setup all the columns with shields and stiffener plates on 3/4 sides (try to datum the
bottom off of a flat surface while doing so). These should go on the inside of the
columns
2https://www.mcmaster.com/#8585k59/=1aswn3e
3https://www.mcmaster.com/#9452k391/=1asx6f4
4https://www.mcmaster.com/#9452k516/=1as82k7
5https://www.mcmaster.com/#5011t43/=1atedgj
2
2. Attach the feet to the legs
3. Attach the legs to the base plate
4. Attach the columns to the base plate using the brackets. Fiddle with it until it stands
up straight and the columns are all touching the base plate instead of being held up
by other columns and/or the bracket.
5. Attach the top plate brackets to the columns. Fiddle with positioning until the top
surface of all the top plate brackets are at the same elevation and nicely flat. Make
sure that the brackets are attached to the outside of the columns, folding over and
inwards (to fold over the columns, so to speak)
6. Attach the top plate to the brackets, on top.
7. Hang the load cell, checking for:
•Proper engagement length into the load cell, so it doesn’t accidentally fall off the
threaded rod
•Double nut and double washer hanging the threaded rod from the top plate
•A nice amount of extra threaded rod length sticking out the top (probably at
least 2”)
•Some method of preventing load cell from unthreading itself (a nut tightened
against it is good, threadlocker is also good)
•Proper tank height so that the blast shields are effective
8. After the tank is hung with all the hose attachments done, affix the last blast shield
panel. This panel can go on the outside with only the 4 corner connections. This
side needs to face away from the viewing area.
4.2 Water Jacket Assembly
1. Of special note is that the water jacket (at least the sealing cap) needs to be assembled
alongside the oxidizer tank, as it’s held in place by the bolt circles.
2. Put O rings into the sealing cap
3. Affix inlet and outlet adapters (don’t forget to apply gasket and/or other sealing
strategies)
4. Slide the sealing cap onto the bottom end of the oxidizer tank. Check for ripped
O-Rings
5. Assemble the remainder of the oxidizer tank.
6. Slide the jacket shell on from the top end of oxidizer tank (keeping the inlet on the
bottom .
7. Use some duct tape to hold the sealing caps onto the water jacket shell.
3
8. The top of the water jacket can be held concentric with the tank by using shims/wedges.
9. After the rest of the tank is assembled, and the whole thing is brought outside and is
ready to be hooked onto the load cell, attach the hoses to the inlet and outlet adapters.
Be aware of where the hoses route. The open side of the tank stand (final panel)
must face away from the spectator area. Therefore the hoses should already be routed
through the gap at the bottom of the tank stand.
•Note that the hoses definitely require nicely tightened hose clamps and probably
some sort of sealing (gasket tape or something like that).
10. Run a flow test to make sure that water is flowing well. If anything starts spinning
(especially the load cell), that is bad news bears and you should rectify the situation
immediately.
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