Pentair Hp 400 600 800 1000 230 Users Manual

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Part #471949 Revision #A

Note: Specifications may change without notice.

Owners Operational Information Only

Technicians See Separate Installation Manual

OWNERS OPERATION MANUAL

Models:

MiniMax Plus HP 400 (XLS400)

MiniMax Plus HP 600 (XLS600)

MiniMax Plus HP 800 (XLS800)

MiniMax Plus HP 1000 (XLS1000)

MiniMax Plus HP 230 (CP12)

WARNING

FOR YOUR SAFETY - READ BEFORE OPERATING

Warning: If you do not follow these instructions exactly, a fire or explosion may result, causing

property damage, personal injury or loss of life.

WARNING

Improper installation, adjustment, alteration, service or maintenance may cause property damage, personal injury or

death. Installation and service must be performed by a qualified technician or service agency.

OWNERS SECTION - TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. OPERATIONAL INSTRUCTIONS ..............................................................................................

a. Introduction & Design Features

b. Heater Control Panels & L.E.D. Status Lights

2. START UP PROCEDURES ...........................................................................................................

a. Compressor Warm Up Time

b. Filter System Cleaning

c. Operational Description

c. Circulation Pump Timer

d. Thermostat Setting

e. Heat Loss & Pool Covers

3. OWNERS CARE .............................................................................................................................

a. Placement Area

b. Sprinkler Placement & Plants & Condensation Run Off

c. Clearance and Air Flow.

d. Cleaning The Unit

e. Pool Circulation System Maintenance

f. Auto Vacuum's & Vacuuming

4. PLUMBING & WATER FLOW ....................................................................................................

a. Plumbing Connections & Auto Bypass

b. Large Water Pump Plumbing Bypass

c. Mandatory Chlorinator Loop & Check Valve

5. CHEMICAL & CHLORINATOR APPLICATION & USE ......................................................

a. Water Quality and Testing Values

a. Heat Exchanger Protection & Sacrificial Water Fittings

b. Chemical Feeder Placement & Use & Hand Feeding Chemicals

c. Commercial Feeders

d. Spa Chemical Application.

6. SHUT DOWN AND FREEZE PROTECTION PROCEDURES ................................................

a. Seasonal Shut Down

b. Short Term and Long Term Freezing Protection

7. OWNERS TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE................................................................................

8. ELECTRICAL WIRING SPECIFICATIONS BY MODEL NUMBER ....................................

8. HOW TO GET SERVICE .............................................................................................................

10. GLOSSARY OF TERMS .............................................................................................................

ADDITIONAL MANUALS AVAILABLE:

INSTALLATION MANUAL - TECHNICIAN ONLY

OPTIONS/ACCESSORY MANUAL - TECHNICIANS ONLY

OWNERS MANUALS

3 - 7

8 - 13

14 - 17

18 - 19

20 -24

26 - 27

30 - 33

Manufactured for Pentair Pool Products by HydroTemp Mfg. Co., Inc.

Owners/users should contact the factory service department for advice at:

HYDROTEMP MANUFACTURING CO., INC.

12155 Metro Pkwy, Ste. 5

Ft Myers, FL 33912

(941) 768-1555

(941) 768-2856 (fax)

www.warmpool.com

RETURN ON INVESTMENT

The costs of installing a heat pump are somewhat higher

than a gas heater but you will save enough in opera-

tional costs to offset the difference, probably in the first

year or two. After a few heating seasons you will have

saved enough, compared to LP gas heat, to pay for the

entire heat pump and installation

LONGER SWIMMING SEASON

A heat pump is the least expensive way to heat your

pool. It will out perform solar by delivering heat on

demand, no matter how much sunshine is available. A

solar system with a gas back L.P. Gas back up will cost

more to operate than the heat pump alone.

In Florida, a heat pump offers a full 12 months of swim-

ming season compared to a solar systems 10 month

swimming season. A heat pump will provide higher

temperatures than a solar system. Solar will not heat a

spa on demand after sundown & during inclement

weather.

LOW MAINTENANCE

Maintenance cost can be more for a gas heater, consid-

ering the fact that a gas heater starts to lose efficiency

as it gets older. The heat pump's sealed system needs

far less attention.

Electric Oil Heat

Pump

$ 0.32

$1.65

LP Gas Natural

Gas

$1.10

$ 0.96

$2.34 Approximate

Cost Per 100,000 Btu's of Heat

HEAT PUMP EFFICIENCY

Your new highly efficient heat pump pool/spa heater

will deliver warm pool water for your comfort for pen-

nies a day. For every dollar you spend to run your heat

pump, you will receive between $4.00 and $5.00 worth

of heat in return. The heat pump transfers the heat from

the outside air to your pool or spa. Your heat pump

costs about 60 to 75 percent less than L.P. Gas heaters

to operate with less maintenance and gas storage tank

is not needed. Your heat pump produces no pollution

and no pilot lights to deal with.

THE MISUSE OF THIS PRODUCT CAN RESULT IN SEVERE INJURY, DEATH,

OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. BE ADVISED OF THE FOLLOWING CONDI-

TIONS THAT MAY EXIST:

1. ELECTROCUTION AND/OR FIRE DUE TO IMPROPER WIRING.

2. HAND AND HAIR ENTRAPMENT MAY OCCUR NEAR THE FAN LO-

CATED ON THE TOP OF THIS UNIT.

3. LOSS OF POOL WATER AND/OR FLOODING AND/OR PROPERTY DAM-

AGE.

4. DAMAGE AND/OR MISUSE TO THE PRODUCT RESULTING IN FAILURE

OR EXCESSIVE WEAR.

5. ALL ELECTRICAL WORK BY LICENSED PROFESSIONAL ONLY.

WARNING

Super Quiet & Highly Efficient Compressor Design

Sturdy Elevated

Fiberglass

Rust Proof

Bottom Provides

Proper Drainage

Large Aluminum & Copper

Lanced Fin

Evaporator Air Coil and

Coil Guard

Easy Connect

2 Inch Plumbing With

"Internal Automatic Bypass"

Up To 90 GPM

Sturdy Rust Proof

Fiberglass Top

Non Fading

Quiet

High Volume

Fan With

Vinyl Coated

Guard

Product

Name Plate

Chemical

Warning Label

Automatic Diagnostics With

L.E.D. Display & Electronic

Thermostat

Optional Pool/Spa Wiring

Access Holes

Separate Air Handling / Electric Compartment

An internal electrical compartment substantially reduces

future service from moisture and salt laden air flow.

TRANE®

COMPRESSOR

with 410-A, the safe

and clean refrigerant.

SPECIAL FEATURES

And

SCROLL

COMPRESSOR

The electrical panel has

an isolated compartment,

located within the me-

chanical compartment to

prevent corrosion there.

The heat from the com-

pressor located just below

the electrical compart-

ment helps eliminate mois-

ture as well. This exclu-

sive design will substan-

tially extend the life cycle

of the heater. The fiber-

glass cabinet is corrosion

proof and is much stron-

ger than plastic cabinets.

L.E.D. Status Lights

Self

Diagnostic Indicators

(On selected models)

Heat Exchanger

Special Cupronickel Alloy

Encased In A Block of Foam

to Prevent Heat Loss & Corrosion

DESIGN ADVANTAGES

Internal Automatic Bypass

Free Flow 2" Plumbing

Automatically adjusts the water flow.

Lowest water flow restriction available.

Internal

Automatic

Bypass

WARNING

The heater must be electrically grounded and bonded in accordance with local codes, or in the

absence of local codes, with the latest national electrical codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. All wiring

must comply with all local codes, or in the absence of local codes, with the latest national electri-

cal codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. For proper wire and/or breaker size, please refer to specification

sheet and your local licensed electrician. Always bond heat pump cabinet to pool steel and

ground to power supply.

4250

DUAL THERMOSTAT CONTROL PANEL

THERMOSTAT

The thermostat dial is just like any other,

when you set it at a certain setting the

heater will heat up to that temperature

and then shut off. When the pool/spa wa-

ter temperature drops below this setting

the heater will come on and start heating

the water back up to the setting on the

thermostat.

You will notice there are no number set-

tings printed on the dial face. There is a

certain procedure to follow to determine

the exact temperature you have the ther-

mostat set at. This is described further

on next pages.

The maximum setting for a thermostat is

104 degrees F. You will only be able to

reach this high temperature in a spa ap-

plication. Pool temperatures are nor-

mally between 78 and 82 degrees F. Ac-

tual pool temperatures are determined by

your installer, when the unit is sized to

your specifications. The lowest setting

on the thermostat is around 60 degrees F.

To disable the heater, turn the thermo-

stat dial all the way to the left. If you

live in a climate where the water tem-

perature may drop below 60 degrees F

you must shut the circuit breaker off.

Otherwise do not use the breaker as an

on/off switch.

See "Start up Procedures" regarding

compressor preheating if the main power

breaker is shut off. The compressor must

be preheated for 8 hours after the power

supply has been disconnected.

L.E.D. STATUS LIGHT PANEL

The indicator lights will help you determine that the unit is running

normally or if there is a condition that may keep the heater from

running. Note that the spa light is inactive on single thermostat

units. See next page for details on reading the status lights.

L.E.D. Status Lights

( See page 7 for details.)

DUAL Thermostat

POOL MODE "Yellow": The yellow pool mode in-

dicator light lets you know that you have selected the

pool mode with the pool /spa select switch, (dual ther-

mostat control only). This light will be off when the

control is in spa mode.

SPA MODE "Orange": The orange spa mode indicator light tells you that you have selected the spa mode

with the pool spa select switch, (dual thermostat control only). This light will be inactive when used with the

standard single thermostat control (pool only).WATER PRESS. OK "Green": The green water pressure OK

indicator light tells you that the internal water pressure switch is OK. The internal water pressure switch is used

to shut the heater on and off with the circulation pump. The heater should not run when the water pump is not

pumping water through the heater. Dirty filters and lint traps will cause low water flow to the heater and may

cause the water pressure switch to deactivate the heater. If this light stays off, clean all filters and check all

filter system valving to insure proper water flow. See pages 12, 13 and 20, for more information regarding

water flow requirements. When this water flow indicator light is off the t-stat light and the low and high press.

lights will not come on either and the heater will stay off.

T-STAT ON "Green": The green thermostat on indicator light is used to let you know that the thermostat is set

higher than the pool or spa water temperature. If the light is not on, turn the thermostat to a higher position and the

fan should then start, (compressor starts after a 5 minute delay). If the thermostat is already all the way up and the

light is still off, means that the pool or spa water temperature has reached the maximum of 104˚F + or - allowed.

When this light goes off, the heater has heated the pool or spa to the preset temperature. When this light is off the

heater and the low and high pressure lights will stay off.

LOW PRESS. OK "Green": The green low pressure indicator light is designed to let you know that the low side

refrigerant pressure is OK. If the refrigerant pressure was too low for the unit to operate this light the heater will

shut off. The heater is charged with Freon™ (refrigerant). If the outside air temperature drops below 40 degrees

the refrigerant pressure will drop below the required operational range. The internal low refrigerant pressure

switch will act as a defrost control to keep the unit from forming ice on the outer evaporator coil when this light is

off. It may also indicate that the unit may have a refrigerant leak as well. When this light is off the high pressure

light and the heater will be off as well.

HIGH PRESS. OK "Green": The green high pressure OK indicator light is used to tell you that the heater is

operating at the correct high side refrigerant pressure range. If the refrigerant pressure exceeds the maximum

needed for proper operation, this light and the heater will shut off. Excessive high refrigerant pressure is usually

caused by low water flow through the heater. If this light goes out, clean the filtering system and check all

plumbing valves to insure proper water flow then try to restart the heater. See pages 8,18 and 19 for information

regarding water flow. When this light is off the heater will not run.

Control Ready "Green": The green control ready indicator light lets you know that the heater has power and it

is ready to heat. This light must be on before the heater can run. If this light is off, check you power supply and

circuit breakers. If this light is off, none of the others will light either.

L.E.D. STATUS LIGHT PANEL

(To use indicator lights see

troubleshooting guide pages 26 & 27)

CAUTION

The unit may still have "live voltage" when the control light is off.

NOTE: The bottom four indicator lights work in sequence from left to right.

START UP PROCEDURES

COMPRESSOR TIME DELAY

BE AWARE THERE IS A 5 TO 7 MINUTE TIME DE-

LAY BEFORE THE COMPRESSOR WILL START

ONCE THE UNIT IS TURNED ON OR WHENEVER

IT RESTARTS. All models.

TURN T-STAT ALL THE WAY DOWN

Make sure the thermostat dial is turned all the way to

the “LEFT” so the unit will not start until you are ready.

Then turn the circuit breaker on.

CLEAN FILTERING SYSTEM

Next, make sure that the pool filter is as clean as pos-

sible. A dirty filter will hamper the efficiency of the

unit and cause the unit to cycle on and off resulting in

damaging effects. Filters may look clean but can be

clogged with oils or minerals. Replacement is suggested

every year and a half for cartridge type filters. See manu-

facturers directions for proper filter cleaning methods.

Next clean the lint trap basket inside the circulation

pump. Then clean the skimmer leaf trap basket of all

debris. A clogged lint trap or skimmer basket will

restrict the water flow to the unit. Make sure there is

adequate water in the pool so that the skimmer does not

draw air. Never place any chemicals of any type, espe-

cially chlorine, in the skimmer.

ADVISE YOUR POOL SERVICE CO.

If you have a regular pool service on a weekly basis

make sure your owners manual available for them to

inspect. You may request that one be sent to them, by

calling the factory service department at (941) 768-1555.

Be sure that they are aware of the chemical balance and

chemical introduction rules, in this manual. The condi-

tions in this manual must be followed in accordance with

the warranty, if for any reason, the heater is improperly

installed and or operated, the manufacturers warranty

may be void.

If you are unfamiliar with your pool filtering system,

you should consult your local pool company. The dia-

gram shown above are not of any specific brand but are

common in nature. The following diagram is of a typi-

cal filtering system.

WATER FLOW & EXISTING WATER PUMP

To filter the pool water each day, the water pump will

come on & off according to the existing timer device.

The heater will only heat if there is water running through

it.

Filter & Trap Locations

WATER PRESSURE SWITCH

If there is proper water flow through the unit

the water pressure switch will close allowing

the unit to run. When the circulation pump

timer stops the water flow, the water pressure

switch will shut the unit down. When the pump

restarts for the next day, the pressure switch

will close and allow the heater to run.

Water

Pressure

Switch

Location

HEAT EXCHANGER

The compressed hot refrigerant releases it's heat to the

pool water inside the heat exchanger. The exchanger is

a tube within a tube construction, water passing through

the inner tube, hot gas passing

through the outer tube. The refriger-

ant is transformed into a liquid state

as it exits the heat exchanger. There-

fore it is also referred to

as a condenser coil. (Heat & Cool Models,

process is reverse). The exchanger is en-

cased inside a block of closed cell foam to

prevent heat loss and corrosion.

See the cross section.

Turning up the thermostat will start the

unit running. When the pool water has

been heated to the thermostat setting, the

unit will shut off. When the pool water

temperature loses one to two degrees,

the thermostat will activate the unit.

There are no temperature graduate num-

bers printed on the thermostat face. To

obtain an exact temperature, turn the t-stat

all the way up and then place a pool type

thermometer in the pool water itself. Once

the water has reached your target tempera-

ture on the thermometer, turn the thermo-

stat knob backwards until the heater just

shuts off. Make a mental note of knob in-

dicator. Therefore your thermostat will be

set at the thermometer reading.

THERMOSTAT CONTROL & SETTINGS

FAN-AIR CIRCULATION

Once the t-stat is activated the

fan will begin to turn. To ab-

sorb heat energy, the fan circu-

lates warmer air through the

evaporator coil at about 4000

cubic feet per minute. The fan

runs independently from the

compressor. The compressor

will start within 5 to 7 minutes

after the fan.

COMPRESSOR

Once the fan is running, the compressor will start 5 to

7 minutes later, it's controlled by a time delay device.

The compressor pumps and compresses re-

frigerant gas. When refrigerant gas is com-

pressed it intensifies the heat before it is

release to the pool water. This compressed

hot gas is pumped through the heat ex-

changer where it delivers heat to the pool

water passing through the same heat ex-

changer.

EVAPORATOR AIR COIL

The fan circulates the warmer out-

side air through the evaporator air

coil to collect any available heat. The

cooler Freon™ absorbs this heat

causing it to evaporate into a gas.

Therefore the compressor can com-

press the gas to maximize the gain

heat from the air. The fan discharges

cooler air when the compressor is running. Process is

reversed in Heat & Cool models while in cooling mode.

Warm Water

In Cool Water

Out

Warm

Air

Cool Air Out

Compressor

Air Coil Heat

Exchanger

Plumbing Bypass

Manifold

Freon™

Lines

Hot Gas

SYSTEM OVERVIEW

The heat pump system

uses 410-A refrigerant to

transfer the heat from the

outside air to the pool

water.

OPERATIONAL SEQUENCE

THERMOSTAT CONTROL & SETTINGS FOR

HEAT & COOL MODELS

For heating modes on these models,

make sure toggle is selected to heat and

follow the previous instructions above.

For cooling mode make sure toggle is

selected to cool. Turning down the ther-

mostat counter clockwise will start the

unit running. When the pool water has

been cooled to the thermostat setting,

the unit will shut off. When the pool

water temperature rises one to two degrees, the thermo-

stat will activate the unit. There are no temperature gradu-

ate numbers printed on the thermostat face. To obtain an

exact temperature, turn the t-stat all the way down and

then place a pool type thermometer in the pool water it-

self. Once the water has reached your target temperature

on the thermometer, turn the thermostat knob forwards

until the heater just shuts off. Therefore your thermostat

will be set at the thermometer reading.

Heat Cool

NORMAL RUNNING TIME

The heat pump system extracts the heat from the out-

side air and delivers it to your pool. Therefore it pro-

duces more BTU's (heat) the warmer it is outside. So

take advantage of the higher air temperatures during

the day by setting the timer for the warmest hours. Win-

ter operation (during cold fronts) may require longer

run times up to 16 hours daily.

SET THERMOSTAT TO MAXIMUM

Turn the thermostat dial all the way to the right. You

will turn the thermostat back to a lower position later,

as described on the next page. The fan should now be

turning.

There is a compressor start time delay and generally it

will not start for about 5 to 7 minutes. Cooler air will

come from the fan when the compressor is running.

Become familiar with the compressor sound and remem-

ber the compressor time delay.

Scroll compressors may not start on the first try. Allow

Scroll type compressors several starts and time delay

cycles before the compressor starts. This condition is

most common to new compressors or when starting

during colder air temperatures.

TIME CLOCK SETTING

Now that all the filters are clean and the pump is run-

ning with a full prime, you will need to set the pool

circulation pump timer. Set the filter pump time clock

for a long enough period of time to heat the pool or spa.

The heater will not operate unless there is water run-

ning through the heat exchanger supplied by the circu-

lation pump. Therefore, your pool will only heat dur-

ing the period set on the timer. When setting the timer,

be sure that you shut off the pool circulation pump cir-

cuit breaker. Then follow the timer manufacturers in-

structions to prevent electrical shock. Consult your

dealer first.

INITIAL HEAT UP TIME (HEATERS)

You should start by letting the circulation pump run 24

hours a day until the pool reaches the desired tempera-

ture. Once the pool is up to your desired temperature

you should reset the timer for a cycle of 6 to 18 hours

per day during the hottest part of the day. Heat up time

and operational time will vary with pool size, exposure

and weather conditions. Spas will require considerably

less time to reach temperature, usually in a matter of

hours if a cover is used.

INITIAL COOL DOWN TIME

(HEAT & COOL MODELS)

You should start by letting the circulation pump run 24

hours a day until the pool reaches the desired tempera-

ture. Once the pool is down to your desired tempera-

ture you should reset the timer for a cycle of 6 to 18

hours per day during the coldest part of the day. Cool

down time and operational time will vary with pool size,

exposure and weather conditions.

ADJUSTING THE TIMER

Timer styles vary, read the manufacturers instructions

before attempting to reset timer. Make sure the plastic

guard is in place. On this type of timer, note the On

and OFF trippers located on the clock face. If you

loosen the lock screw on the tripper you can move it to

a new time. Make sure the time of day is correct.

To run the 24 hours needed for the initial heat up, just

remove the "OFF" tripper. When the pool reaches tem-

perature, replace the tripper and set timer to run the water

pump during the hottest part of the day.

OFF Tripper Peg

ON Tripper Peg

24 Hour Clock Face

Time of Day

Indicator ON/OFF

Switch

COMMON MECHANICAL TIMER

Read your particular timer manufacturers instructions

to identify the one you have. Do not attempt to adjust

the timer unless you have read these instructions.

THERMOSTAT SETTING

There are no temperature reading numbers printed on the thermostat dial due to calibration changes from unit to

unit. The demand for exact temperatures should be regulated by using a high quality thermometer right in the pool

water. Normal temperatures for pools are 78 to 82 degrees F. Spa temperatures are 98 to a maximum of 104

degrees F.

You should place a high quality "tie on type" or a "floating type" thermom-

eter directly in the pool or spa water, so you can determine what tempera-

ture that is suitable to you. Check the pool temperature occasionally during

the heat up time until it has reached the temperature you desire.

Then go to the heater and turn thermostat counter clockwise, to the left,

away from warmer, SLOWLY until the unit just shuts off. Therefore, the

thermostat will be set exactly at the current temperature shown on your

floating thermometer. Make a mark on the thermostat dial so you know the

approximate setting that you desire.

Now the heater will come on each day when the circulation pump starts, then it will bring the pool up to that set

temperature. The pool will lose some heat overnight but will come back up to temperature with minimal delay. If

you have a pool and spa combination, you can set the spa thermostat the same way once you are in the spa heating

mode. When adjusting the thermostat, remember that it will take some time for the water temperature to reach a

higher setting. The cooler the outside air, the longer heat up time needed.

MAKE SURE YOU ADJUST THE THERMOSTAT BACK FROM THE HIGHEST POSITION SET DURING

THE START UP PROCEDURE OR THE POOL MAY GET TOO WARM. BE SURE TO RESET THE CIRCU-

LATION PUMP TIMER FOR 6 TO 18 HOURS PER DAY OR AS NEEDED, ACCORDING TO THE SIZE OF

YOUR POOL AND WEATHER CONDITIONS. COLDER CLIMATES WILL REQUIRE MORE TIME.

LARGER POOLS WILL REQUIRE MORE TIME. EXPOSED POOLS WILL REQUIRE MORE TIME. WIN-

TER TIME OPERATION WILL REQUIRE MORE OPERATIONAL TIME EACH DAY.

If the pool temperature on the thermometer reads 80 degrees F, and

you turn the thermostat to the "left" until the heater shuts off, the

thermostat will now be set at 80 degrees F.

Thermometer

104˚F

Max.

50˚F

Min. + or - 1.5˚F

CAUTION

RERADIATION CONVECTION EVAPORATION

WIND

CONDUCTION

Pool Shell

Pool Surface

Warm Pool

Water

UNDERSTANDING HEAT LOSS

It is important to understand how your pool loses heat. The greatest heat loss occurs at the water surface. You will

need to adjust the operational time to compensate for added heat loss during the colder months. See the diagram

on the next page. There are four types of heat loss to be concerned with:

Evaporation accounts for the greatest amount of heat loss. As the water changes from a liquid to a vapor it

requires heat taken from the pool. You are usually heating the pool when temperatures and humidity are low. The

temperature difference between the pool and outside air increase the evaporation rate. Windy conditions will

accelerate evaporation heat loss.

Convection is simply the loss of heat due to the cooler outside air moving across the waters surface. Heat moves

from hot to cold only, so the warmer pool heat transfers to the moving cooler air. Windy conditions will acceler-

ates heat loss. Pools and spas located on or nearby open area such as the ocean, lakes, fields or golf courses will

experience increased wind speeds therefore heat loss will be greater for these conditions. Evaporation and Con-

vection account for as much or more than 82% of the total heat loss.

Conduction is the transfer of heat from the warm pool through the pool or spa shell to the surrounding cooler

earth. Conduction only accounts for 5 % or less of the total heat loss. If you live in an area where the ground water

surrounds the pool shell and plumbing, this type of heat loss will be greater.

Reradiation is the transfer for heat from the warm pool to the cooler sky. Reradiation heat loss will be at it's

greatest on clear nights. Cloud cover will reduce this type of heat loss.

CONTROLLING HEAT LOSS

A good way to control heat loss is to slow the wind

speed through your pool area by placing plants such as

shrubs or bushes around the pool's perimeter. Plants

will break up the air flow and diffuse the wind speed.

If the pool area is to be fenced in, choose a wood shadow

box type design.

A solid type fence or wall does not act as a good wind

break. They tend to create a wind spoil (vortex) across

the water surface increasing air turbulence and heat loss.

Pools located in windy areas such as water front, golf

courses or open fields will experience greater heat loss.

COVERS SAVE TIME & MONEY

As discussed on the previous page, the greatest heat loss

is at the water surface. The very best way to reduce

heat loss (and operational cost), is to cover the pool or

spa.

Covering the pool or spa during the initial heat up time

will help the pool get to the desired temperature much

faster. If properly used, a cover can lower your total

operating costs as much as 50%. Covers reduce evapo-

ration, thus you will save on pool chemicals and fill

water usage as well.

SPAS HEATING TIPS

It is strongly suggested that you use a cover during the

initial heat up time. This will save time as well as elec-

trical costs.

When heating a spa make sure that there are no air

bubbles coming from the air blower or hydrotherapy

air inlets. The air bubbles will dissipate the heat into

the air and prolong the heating time.

Electric air blowers inject cooler outside air into the

spa and will lower the temperature. You can shorten the

heating time of your spa by shutting off any air injec-

tion devices until the spa is up to the desired tempera-

ture.

If you have any health problems, high blood pressure

etc., consult a doctor before using a hot water spa. You

should get out of the spa and cool off every fifteen min-

utes. Do not consume alcoholic beverages while using

the spa. To prevent drowning, do not use the cover while

in the spa.

Using a pool cover can be somewhat cumbersome but

they are worth the trouble in regards to the great cost

savings. Covers are sometimes referred to as blankets

or solar blankets.

TYPICAL POOL BLANKET & ROLLER

WARNING

NEVER SWIM WITH POOL COVER ON. Swim-

mers can tangle easily in the pool cover and subse-

quently may result in drowning. See manufacturer's

Safety Precautions before using.

OWNERS MAINTENANCE & CARE

There are some considerations that should be taken concerning the environment where your heater is installed.

The heater is usually placed near the pool filtering system. There are certain things in this area you will need to be

aware of to insure long life and prevent unnecessary damage.

SPRINKLERS

Make sure there are absolutely no sprinkler heads near the heater that will in any way spray on or into the heater.

Sprinkler damage is not covered under the warranty agreement.

Make sure that they are a sufficient distance away so that normal winds

will not carry the mist to the heater. If your filtering system area has

plants that need water, use a trickle type irrigation sprinkler instead of

the broadcast type.

The heater is designed to handle the wettest weather conditions that are

typical of rain and humidity, etc. Sprinkler heads force high pressure

water into the unit from the side at an odd angle. Most sprinkler sys-

tems are connected to a well system. Most well water is high in miner-

als, sulphur and other aggressive contaminates. These contaminates

will leave a build up on the evaporator coils and electronics causing

corrosion and hamper the efficiency. If you are located within 15 miles

of the coast, salt may be in the well water also.

PLANTS

Plants in the installation area should be kept trimmed away to the proper clearances shown

here. Plants too close to the heater will restrict the air flow into the unit from the side as

well as air flow through the top. Plants also bring extra moisture and insects that may get

inside the unit. There should be enough clearance to easily service and adjust the heater.

CONDENSATION DRAINS

The unit will produce a condensation of water that will drain from the unit at a steady rate. This condensation is

from the humidity in the outside air. The more humidity, the more condensation the unit will produce. There are

several drain ports in the bottom of the unit, make sure they do not become clogged with debris. This condensation

will attract weeds and insects, make sure that the water drains properly and plants are kept trimmed. (Heat and

Cool Models) In the cooling mode this unit will produce no condensation.

The air handling compartment below the fan should be cleaned and vacuumed to remove debris that may clog the

condensation drains at the bottom of the heater. Accumulated debris will clog the condensation drains causing the

water to pool in the bottom of the heater. Accumulated condensation water will cause corrosion to the heaters

components. 14

CAUTION

Chemicals should NOT be stored near the heater. The fan may draw corrosive chemical vapor

through the unit causing damage. Do NOT store anything on top, underneath or around the heater.

You will need access to the disconnect breakers in the event of an emergency.

WATER PIPING LEAK ?

When the unit operates, it will produce condensation that will drain from the bottom of the unit. Do not mistake

condensation with a water piping leak. There is a certain procedure to follow to check the unit for leaks: Shut the

heat pump and filtering system off. Allow all the condensation to drain from the unit for at least an hour or so.

Then start the circulation pump only, leave the heater off. If the unit is still leaking water steadily, you may have

a water piping leak. The unit should not condensate when the heater is off. Consult your dealer.

AIR FLOW

Do not install the unit in an area where the cooler discharge air may accumulate and be drawn back into the unit.

Provide ventilation through containment walls or fencing for the air intake if needed. Do not install this unit

indoors or in filtering system equipment rooms. Do not restrict the air flow in any way.

ROOF RUN OFF

To prevent large amounts of rain water from running through the unit you may need to install a gutter and down

spout when the roof has a sharp pitch. IMPORTANT: Do not allow roof run off water to rush through the

unit. Do not install the unit under roof valleys, where two roof sections meet. The two roof sections channel water

to the valley and will allow massive amounts of water to run through the unit at high velocity.

CLEANING

To clean the heater, you should take a sponge and mild soapy water and wipe the surfaces clean. Do not use a

pressurized garden hose to clean the heater. Never force water into the unit from any direction. You may use a

garden hose at low pressure with no nozzle attachment. Clean the evaporator coils at least twice a year. If you live

near the sea coast you will need to clean at least four times a year to remove salt and sand. Use a very soft brush

with soap and gently remove any build up. Clogged evaporator coils will reduce the efficiency of the unit and

cause corrosion. Use a fin comb to straighten any minor indentations in the evaporator coils

Slab Evaporator

Coils

Do not allow roof

run-off to flow into

the unit.

FILTER CLEANING & CARE

Your filter system should be cleaned at least twice a

month. See manufacturer's directions for proper filter

cleaning methods. Size and conditions may require you

to clean the filter more often. A filter is considered

"dirty", whenever it restricts the flow rate by 10% or

more.

You can use the pressure gauge on the filter tank to de-

termine a restriction in the filter due to clogging. After

the filter has been replaced or when it is new, you should

record the actual operating pressure with a "clean fil-

ter". When the pressure increases more than 5 p.s.i.,

the filter should be cleaned. If the pressure does not

return to normal you must replace it. Make sure your

pressure gauge is kept in good working condition.

There are some after market filter element cleaning so-

lutions that will help remove oil and minerals that may

clog the filter. Oil and minerals can not be removed

with normal cleaning and back-washing. Spas are par-

ticularly susceptible to oil build up in the filter. Do not

acid wash a filter until you have removed all oil and

grease with a solution designed to remove such. Acid

washing a filter with oil in it will cause that oil to be-

come permanently embedded in the fibers. Cartridge

filter element replacement is suggested every 1 to 2

years. Sand filters should have the sand replaced every

3 to 5 years. D.E. type filter elements should be re-

moved and soaked in a solution at least every two years.

WATER FLOW

Proper water flow is critical to the heaters performance

and longevity. The maintenance of your filtering sys-

tem is directly related to the proper operation of the

heat pump. See pages 8 for other information regarding

filter cleaning and the start up procedures.

CIRCULATION PUMP

The circulation pump must be kept in good working

order to provide a steady rate of flow to the heater and

filtering system as a whole. The circulation pump must

be producing a flow rate in accordance with the manu-

facturers specifications within 10%. The pump should

run with a "full prime" without excessive restriction on

the vacuum and pressure side of the filtering system.

VACUUM & PRESSURE LEAKS

All vacuum and pressure leaks in the filtering system

must be eliminated immediately after occurring. Air

allowed into the filter system from the vacuum side of

the circulation pump will cause premature wear and

physical erosion to the heat exchanger and water pip-

ing inside the heater. Air turbulence will cause the wa-

ter pressure switch to malfunction.

Pressure leaks on the filtering system will allow the sys-

tem to lose vacuum and cause the water in the filter and

piping to back siphon or reverse flow through the sys-

tem when the circulation pump is off. Reverse flow

may cause the water pressure switch to malfunction.

CHLORINATORS

See chlorinator placement and chemical use guide-

lines.

FILTER SYSTEM MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS

Air Bleed

Valve

PSI

Gauge

Locking Nut &

O-Ring

Element

Filter Tank

Typical

Cartridge

Filter

Inlet Outlet

Pump Lid

"Suction"

Inlet

Electric

Motor

Lint Trap

Discharge Outlet

"Pressure"

Impeller

Housing

Typical Circulation Pump

Often times, when these auto vacuums begin to wear,

they require more suction from the pump to operate.

Diverting all vacuum through the auto vac may help it

run better but will restrict the overall water flow through

the entire system and the heater.

If you have a low water flow situation where the heater

is not getting enough water through the condenser coil,

remove the pool vac and open all skimmer and main

floor drain vacuum valves to provide maximum flow.

The auto vac manufacturer has a special valve that plugs

into the skimmer before the auto vac hose. These spe-

cial valves will properly regulate the water flow through

the auto vac without creating too much vacuum restric-

tion on the skimmer suction port.

The hose connecting the auto vac to the skimmer should

be checked for the presence of suction leaks that allow

air into the system. (See damage caused by vacuum

leaks previously). As the auto vac hose gets older and

sun damaged, it may develop an air vacuum leak or

known as a "suction leak".

In all cases, you should do what ever necessary to gain

the proper water flow through the heat exchanger. Once

the pool vac is working, make sure you have the proper

water flow through the heater at all times. If the low

flow created by an auto vac is causing a problem with

the unit, it is not considered a warranty condition.

AUTOMATIC POOL VACUUMS

Automatic pool cleaners will decrease the water flow

by restricting the suction of the circulation pump. Most

automatic type pool cleaners operate from the suction

provided by the circulation pump.

Some automatic pool vacuums are plugged into the

skimmer suction port. The main floor drain is then re-

stricted some, so that the auto vac has enough vacuum

to operate. It can then move freely and not become

stuck to the main drain port.

Typical

Automatic

Pool Cleaner

When manually vacuuming the pool or performing ser-

vice to the filtering system, "shut the heater off !"

When the vacuum hose is plugged in, it may cause the

pump to loose prime due to the air in the hose. You

may also need to restrict the main drain suction port to

gain more vacuum to the vacuum hose and head. This

will lower the overall flow through the unit and cause it

to cycle on & off, possibly causing damage. Shut the

heater off whenever there is a chance of restricted wa-

ter flow or loss of prime.

PROFESSIONAL SERVICE

As part of routine maintenance you should schedule a

licensed air conditioning contractor or the factory ser-

vice department to check the refrigeration circuit and

components of the heat pump against factory specifica-

tions. An improper adjustment or diagnosis by others

may limit your warranty. You can call the factory ser-

vice department for a list of factory authorized service

centers in your area. Have all the refrigeration compo-

nents checked against the factory specifications. You

can request this information from the factory service

department.

Verify correct installation according to the owners and

installation manuals. Verify water flow through the heat

exchanger and filtering system. Check all chlorinator

placement and pool water balance. Test the supply volt-

age, amperage draw, wire size against factory specifi-

cations and local codes. Test the operating refrigerant

pressures and corresponding components to factory

specifications. Adjust refrigerant according to the sub

cooling reading and factory specification.

Clean and flush the evaporator coils to remove debris,

salt and mineral build up at least twice a year. Clean

more often if you live in a costal and or sandy environ-

ment. Clean them with a mild soap and a very soft

brush. Do not use a pressurized garden hose. The air

handling compartment below the fan must be cleaned

of debris regularly. Contact an air conditioning con-

tractor for proper methods of cleaning the evaporator

coils. Remember to make sure the irrigation sprinkler

system does not spray on the unit!

The fan motor should be oiled when the unit is serviced

otherwise once per year or more if needed. Coastal in-

stallation should oil the fan motor 4 times per year or

more depending on exposure.

CAUTION

The heat pump in equipped with

a internal "Automatic Bypass"

valve. A variable rate spring

valve is used to regulate the wa-

ter flow through the heat ex-

changer. Steady flow will be de-

livered over a wide range of flow

rates. This automatic valve can

handle a maximum flow rate of

90 gallons per minute.

The automatic valve will com-

pensate for flow loss due to nor-

mal filter debris accumulation or

changes if flow due to valving

and other conditions.

See chlorinator

placement guidelines.

PLUMBING CONNECTIONS

Filtered Water “IN” on the LEFT front.

Heated Water "OUT" on the RIGHT front.

The plumbing inlets are "slip" p.v.c. pipe that will accept

a 2 inch p.v.c. glue fitting. The pipe is left plain so you

can adapt to your needs. Use p.v.c. cleaner to prime the

fitting and pipe. Use a quality medium body p.v.c. glue.

FOR PUMPS UP TO 2 H.P. OR 90 G.P.M. MAX.

SEE PAGE 19 FOR LARGER WATER PUMPS.

Automatic Bypass Valve

Variable Rate Self Adjusting

up to 90 G.P.M.

PLUMBING & WATER FLOW

INTERNAL AUTOMATIC BYPASS

See mandatory chlorinator placement

and install of the loop & check valve.

Water

Pump

Filter

Chlorinator or

Chemical Feeder

Heater

Chlorinator Loop & 2 lb. Chem.

Resistant Check Valve

WATER IN

WATER

OUT

1. PUMP

2. FILTER

3. HEATER

4. LOOP & CHECK

5. CHLORINATOR

6. RETURN TO POOL

Warning

No Chemicals In

Skimmer !!

OUT

Special

Compression Fitting

Sacrificial Chemical Protec-

tion Piping

Marine Grade

Cupronickel

Heat Exchanger

Encased in

Closed Cell Foam

Free Flow

Flexible

Water Inlets

WARNING

8" 2 LB

CHEMICAL

RESISTANT

CHECK VALVE

Part# 888-018

LOOP ABOVE

POOL

CHLORI-

NATOR

FROM

HEATER

The chemical resistant check valve and loop must be in-

stalled with all types of chlorinators to prevent chlorine

migration to the heater. The loop should extend at least 8

inches above the chlorinator top. The chemical resistant check

valve should be placed on the pipe leading "up" to the chlo-

rinator. Therefore, the weight of the water above the check

valve will hold it closed even if the spring is weak or dam-

aged. Mount it as low as possible. Be sure to keep the chlo-

rinator, pump and filter lid o-rings lubricated with silicone

grease to insure a good seal. If it looses its seal, it will allow

the chlorine to migrate to the heater when the system shuts

off. The loss of vacuum allows reverse flow. 19

"Excessive Flow Valve Manifold"

Do not valve in a manner that will totally

isolate heater from water flow see page 25.

EXCESSIVE FLOW BYPASS MANIFOLD FOR LARGE

2 H.P. PUMPS OR OVER 90 G.P.M.

If the pool circulation pump is over 2 HP OR if the total

flow exceeds 90 GPM you will have to add the "excessive

flow valve" as shown here. Do not install a bypass valve

that will completely shut off flow to the heater, see shut-

down procedures.

Some larger water pumps may be restricted if the pipe size is

not adequate therefore reducing its overall flow rate. When

determining if you need an excessive bypass valve, one has to

consider the hydraulic restriction of the filter, valving, amount

of 90˚ fittings and the distance of pipe to the pool in the exist-

ing filtering system. If you have a 2 HP water pump that does

not exceed 90 G.P.M. considering the above, you may not need

the excessive bypass. Excessive water flow can damage the

heat exchanger. SPECIAL NOTE: See chlorinator place-

ment instructions at the bottom of this page.

HIGH RATE WATER PUMPS

Ball Valve

@ 45 Deg.

Bypass Pipe Size:

1.5" or 2" pipe @ 2 H.P.

2" pipe @ 3 +.H.P

2" p.v.c. "T"

All others must be set by flow meter.

See Commercial Plumbing Diagram

2 H.P Pumps

Close Bypass 50% 3 H.P. Pumps

Close Bypass 25%

BE SURE THE BYPASS VALVE IS

POSITIONED TO ALLOW REMOVAL

OF THE FRONT ACCESS PANEL!

Position the valve so that the access panel can be

easily removed, always check before final glu-

ing. Angle the valve out 45˚ to provide adequate

clearance. You may use a 2-way valve or other

type if desired. "Do not" use a brass gate valve

or a 3-way valve for bypass !

Exercise care when installing chemical feeders so as not to allow

back siphoning of chemicals into the heater, filters or pump.

CAUTION

Place plumbing so

access panel can

be opened

WATER BALANCE MAINTENANCE

The chemical balance of your pool/spa water and the methods used in adding pool chemicals will directly effect

the life of your heater. Like no other precaution you could take, it is very important that these guidelines are

followed in order to prevent damage to the heat exchanger/water coil and possibly the entire system.

Improperly maintained water balance and incorrect introduction of pool chemicals will cause extreme corrosion to

the heat exchanger. If this condition goes unnoticed, it will eventually damage the compressor and evaporator coil.

The heat exchanger in your unit is made of the highest quality cupronickel metal alloy. This makes the heat

exchanger as chemical resistant as possible. The heat exchanger will withstand what is considered normal pool

water balance. Unfortunately, chemical damage is usually diagnosed after the unit has failed because the corrosive

pool/spa water attacks the metal from the inside out.

The following are water balance specifications that are considered standard pool and spa water testing values and

quality. These water balance values are the industry standard in which professional pool contractors follow. Make

sure your pool water is tested and balanced on a weekly basis or more if required. Spas will need extra attention.

SACRIFICIAL WATER FITTINGS

Alloy Heat

Exchanger

Sacrificial

Water Fittings

Note: The internal 90˚ elbows show in this diagram are de-

signed as a sacrificial fittings to protect the very expensive cu-

pronickel alloy heat exchanger.

These fittings may develop a leak if the pool water balance gets

very acetic or very over chlorinated. If there were no sacrificial

fittings, chemical damage could cause a "breach" from the water

passage to the refrigerant passage. If a" breach" occurs in the

heat exchanger, chlorinated water would be pumped into the re-

frigerant system thus making the heater non-repairable! The sac-

rificial fittings act as an early warning indicator to the user that

the pool water balance is not correct, chemicals are being fed im-

properly (through the skimmer) or the flow rate has been exceeded.

The sacrificial fittings alert the user before "it's too late"

STANDARD POOL WATER

BALANCE REQUIREMENTS

Ph................................7.4 to 7.8

Chlorine/Bromine.......1 to 5 ppm

Total Alkalinity...........90 to 120 ppm

Calcium Hardness......250 to 400 ppm ADVANCED HEAT EXCHANGER DESIGN

This diagram is a cross section of the heat exchanger. The seam-

less tube within another tube design transfers heat very efficiently.

The inner water tube is made of thicker resilient cupronickel metal

alloy to help resist corrosive pool water. The outer heavy gauge

Freon™ tube is dipped in a special weather proofing material.

Then to insulate from heat loss and help prevent exterior corro-

sion the heat exchanger is encased in a block of special closed cell

foam.

Water Passage

Cupronickel

Metal Alloy

Closed Cell Insulation Foam

Hot

Refrigerant

Passage

Heat Exchanger Cross Section

WARNING

See your local pool dealer for help in properly balancing the water chemistry.

Chemical damage to the unit and / or heat exchanger in any way is not covered under the warranty agreement.

These chemical outlines should not be considered as a

“how to” balance your pool/spa water, but just a refer-

ence on how chemical balance effects the heater and gives

suggested test values. You should always consult a pool

professional and follow all chemical manufacturers di-

rections, unless they conflict with this manual.

CHLORINE

Chlorine levels should remain within a range from 1

p.p.m. to a maximum of 5 p.p.m. (p.p.m.=parts per mil-

lion). Excessive chlorine saturation of the pool water will

cause corrosive damage to the heat exchanger.

Chlorines Effect on pH

Review the diagram on the previous page. Some tablets,

granular and gas forms of chlorine have an acetic nature

to start with and may lower the pH of the water when

introduced (see diagram on previous page). Be sure that

the pH remains between 7.4 and 7.8 after adding chlo-

rine. If these types of chlorine are introduced into the

system in the wrong place, you can run full strength chlo-

rine through the heat exchanger before it has a chance to

mix with the rest of the pool water. See the next section

on chemical usage and chlorinator placement.

Shock Treatments

A shock treatment is a large dose of chlorine added to the

pool water all at once to reduce the amount of combined

(contaminated) chlorine in the water or to kill algae. Make

sure you do not over shock treat, calculate the exact

amount of chlorine needed. When “shock treating” the

pool make sure that the pH levels remain at the prescribed

levels after the chlorine is introduced. Do not add any

more chlorine to the water until the chlorine levels have

dropped to normal. Prolonged high chlorine levels will

cause damage to the heat exchanger. The combination of

high chlorine and low pH (acetic) will deteriorate the heat

exchanger at an accelerated rate. Do not add shock treat-

ment or chlorine tablets in the skimmer.

Read and follow the chemical manufacturers directions

when adding chemicals unless they conflict with this book-

let. Contact your dealer or the factory service department

for advice.

The pH level in your pool should be maintained within

the range of 7.4 to 7.8. A pH test will tell you how

acetic or how alkaline the pool water is. For example,

acetic like orange juice or alkaline like milk. A 7.6 pH

is considered the middle of the road. Lower than 7.6

means that the water has an acetic tendency. Higher

than 7.6 indicates that the water has alkaline tendency.

pH Below 7.4 Will...

A lower (acetic) pH reading will cause corrosion to the

heat exchanger. Prolonged exposure to low pH and / or

high chlorine will damage the heat exchanger. The

lower the pH the more aggressive the chlorine is and

the quicker the damage takes place. The metal is oxi-

dized and deteriorates.

Piping Leaks & Stains

An early indicator of low pH and / or high chlorine

would be if a leak were discovered in the piping lead-

ing to the heat exchanger. The copper in the piping will

dissolve into a solution and mix with the pool water.

This dissolved metal will show back up as a blue-green

colored stain on the masonry materials in your pool.

The commonly used, white plaster (Marcite) finishes

will stain from the metal in the water quite easily.

Although there will have already been some chemical

damage. You can make corrections immediately to pro-

tect the very expensive cupronickel heat exchanger.

Follow the chemical guidelines in order to prevent such

damage from occurring. Do not wait until you see the

metal stains or piping leaks.

pH Above 7.8 Will...

If your pool water is extremely high in pH (alkaline),

you may get a mineral build up in the heat exchanger

and piping. Restriction from build up will restrict the

water flow to the heater. This condition is very rare

except where mineral content is high in the tap water

used for the pool.

TOTAL ALKALINITY

Total Alkalinity is a test given to determine the over-

all mineral content of the water. Total alkalinity lev-

els should be within the range from 90 p.p.m. to 120

p.p.m. The total alkalinity is described as a buffer

against acetic conditions and acts as a stabilizer for the

pH. It keeps the pH from fluctuating up and down.

A low alkalinity will allow the pH to fluctuate, usually

to the acetic side. A high alkalinity may cloud the wa-

ter. The pH of your water will change when it is used

after rain, from dirt and debris and many other natural

conditions. The proper total alkalinity will prevent

those changes from being drastic. Test for total alka-

linity on a weekly basis.

CALCIUM HARDNESS

Calcium Hardness levels should remain within the

range from 250 p.p.m. to 400 p.p.m. Calcium hardness

is a test that determines the saturation levels of calcium

and magnesium salts in the water. This tells you in lay-

man terms how “hard” the water is. Please refer to your

pool builders instructions concerning calcium hardness

and how it effects your particular pool surfacing mate-

rial.

POOL CHEMICAL & CHLORINATOR USE

When you are adding pool chemicals as part of your regular maintenance there are several rules of thumb to

follow. Where you add the chemicals are just as important as how much you add. This section will discuss the

“do’s and don’ts" of where you add chemicals or where chlorinators are placed.

VACUUM LEAKS

Suction leaks that allow air into the system when the

pump is running will cause damage to the heat ex-

changer. Suction leaks are what cause the system to

back siphon or reverse flow. Make sure that all the o-

ring seals in the pump lid, filter and chlorinator are in

good condition and are lubricated with silicone grease.

If your filter repeatedly has excessive air inside it when

you open, air the bleed valve, you may have a vacuum

leak. Vacuum leaks that allow an accumulation of air in

the filter and will cause the system to lose prime when

the pump is off and allow reverse flow. Reverse flow

may allow chlorine solution to migrate to the heat ex-

changer.

Vacuum leaks will cause premature wear to the heat ex-

changer. The air allowed into the system causes turbu-

lence in the heat exchanger. The result is physical ero-

sion to the metal alloy water channel.

Note: Chlorine solution is heavier than water and

will migrate through the plumbing even if there is

no vacuum leak.

PROTECT HEAT EXCHANGER

You want to prevent any chemicals from running

through the piping and heat exchanger of the unit. Chlo-

rine solution will damage the heat exchanger. Some

chlorinating devices inject chlorine solution through the

suction side of the filtering system, thus the chlorine

passes through the heat exchanger at full strength be-

fore it has a chance to mix and dilute with the rest of the

pool water. Also note: The overall chemical balance of

the pool water will directly effect the life of the heat

exchanger.

CHLORINE MIGRATION

Some chlorinating devices will back siphon when the

system is shut off, therefore allowing the chlorine solu-

tion to migrate through the heat exchanger causing dam-

age. You have to make sure your filtering system does

not have a vacuum leak that would allow the system to

lose prime. When this happens, water will move back-

wards through the chlorinator thus moving the chlorine

solution into the heat exchanger. Note: Chlorine solu-

tion is heavier than water and will migrate through the

plumbing even if there is no vacuum leak.

CHLORINATOR PLACEMENT

1. All chlorinators should have a chemical resistant

check valve and a loop plumbed at least 8 inches above

the chlorinator, between it and the heater, as far down

line from the heater as possible.

2. Never plumb a chlorinator into the suction side of

the circulation pump. All automatic chemical feeders

should be as far down line of the heaters water flow as

possible.

3. Off line type chlorinators should be tapped into the

plumbing only as shown on the diagram. See pool/spa

combinations requiring special placement. See plumb-

ing diagram.

4. Never install a chlorinator at a higher elevation than

the lowest heater piping even if a loop check valve is

used. Doing so may allow chlorine to migrate to the

heat exchanger, causing damage.

5. Do not allow floating chlorinators to be drawn up to

the skimmer inlet.

6. Keep the chlorinator lid o-ring lubricated with sili-

cone grease. Replace when needed.

Do not place any chemicals in the skimmer throat.

Chlorine tablets placed in the skimmer will allow a

concentrated solution of chlorine to pass through the

heat exchanger causing damage.

7. Do not place any chemicals in the pump lint trap cav-

ity or filter. Make sure the lint trap basket is placed

properly to prevent debris from clogging the heat ex-

changer.

8. Do not over load chlorinator feeder cavity. Exces-

sive amounts of chlorine tablets will increase the chance

of migration of acetic, concentrated chlorine to migrate

to the heat exchanger causing damage. 25% of maxi-

mum is suggested.

9. When adding gas chlorine make sure that the pH does

not drop below 7.4. Make sure that the total alkalinity

does not drop below 90 p.p.m. Gas chlorine is very ace-

tic.

10. Do not isolate the heater from the water flow unless

you have installed a drain plug to drain all the water

from the heat exchanger and then blow out with pres-

surized air. Stagnant water will corrode the heat ex-

changer and piping.

See plumbing & water flow and high rate water pumps for more information.

2lb Chemical Resistant

Check Valve

Chemical Loop

8" Above

Chlorinator

Off Line Type

Chlorinator

In Line Type

Chlorinator

No chemicals or chlorine

tablets in the skimmer !!!

Absolutely no chemicals in the skimmer !

CAUTION

ADDING CHEMICALS

COMMERCIAL FEEDERS

We strongly suggest that all chemical feeders be placed "down line" of the heater. In a "closely monitored"

commercial pool situation where a vacuum type filter system is used in conjunction with a surge tank, there are

some exceptions to chemical injection. Some liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) feeders and liquid muriatic

acid feeders will inject their solutions into the surge tank on the suction side of the unit. You may inject diluted

liquid chlorine and muriatic acid as long as each are diluted with 75 % water in the supply tank. The feeders must

be adjusted to a slow enough rate to prevent the water in the surge tank from dropping below 7.6 pH and or

chlorine levels above 5 p.p.m. You can test the surge tank water while the feeders and circulation pump is running

just as you would the pool water. Then adjust the solution or rate of feed accordingly. The circulation pump

usually moves the water through the surge tank rapidly enough to keep chemical concentrations down. Never

place chlorine tablets in the surge tank.

Also note: Electric type feeders must be electrically relayed to the circulation pump, so the feeders will shut

off when the pump does.

CHEMICAL APPLICATION FOR SPAS

Spas require some special attention due to their small water volume and high heat compared to a normal swim-

ming pool. A spas water balance fluctuates more rapidly than a pool. The following are suggestions that we feel

will prolong the life of the heat exchanger used for a spa heater.

1. Test the water frequently to prevent drastic fluctuations in pH and sanitizer levels especially after usage. Keep

total alkalinity at 100 p.p.m. to 120 p.p.m.

2. Spas react quickly to chemicals when added. Use small amounts and retest the water until you reach the desired

chemical values.

3. Some chlorine tablets are very acetic and will lower the pH of the spa water as the solution is fed. Make sure the

spa water does not drop below 7.4 pH, see page 20 and 21 for more information.

4. Bromine has a more neutral pH value and works well in spa water if pH is maintained at 7.8-8.0. It is a form of

chlorine widely used for spas. Do not install a brominator on the suction side of the filtering system.

5. Using muriatic acid right from the bottle at the same strength as packaged may drastically lower the pH

uncontrollably. There are some dry powdered forms of acid that work better for spas and are somewhat milder and

are easier to handle.

6. All the same rules of chemical application and chlorinator placement that apply in the previous chemical section

also apply to spas. Always consult a professional pool builder or service and follow the chemical manufacturers

directions.

WARNING

Working with muriatic acid can be dangerous. When cleaning elements always

wear rubber gloves and eye protection. Add acid to water, do not add water to

acid. Splashing or spilling acid can cause severe personal injury and/or property

damage.

CAUTION

Never allow a tablet type chlorinator to inject solution into the surge tank, under any circumstances.

SHUT DOWN & FREEZE PROTECTION PROCEDURES

When shutting the unit down for the end of the swimming season you must consider some items to protect the unit

from inclement weather. It is best in most situations to shut the unit off by turning the thermostat all the way

down, to the "left". Leave power ,(circuit breaker), to the unit “on” unless the pool or spa water temperature

drops below 50 degrees F. If you shut off the main power supply due to freezing conditions, be sure to preheat

the compressor for 8 hours before attempting to start the heater.

SHORT TERM FREEZE PROTECTION PROCEDURES

When the outside air temperature is forecast to drop below 32 degrees F for a short time:

You should set the circulation pump timer to run 24 hours per day in order to circulate water through the unit and

filtration system. Standing water inside the unit will freeze and damage the units heat exchanger and refrigerant

system.

Shut the heat pump off and do not try to heat the pool during freezing temperatures. If the unit is left running it

may ice up and the compressor will stop running. The defrost control inside the unit will shut the compressor off

but allow the fan to run. The fan will circulate air through the unit to help defrost the evaporator air coil. If you

know that the temperatures are going to be below 36 degrees F, you should eliminate the possibility of icing and

just shut the unit off. Do not use the circuit breaker as the “on”/“off” switch, but keep the water pump running.

LONG TERM FREEZE PROTECTION / DRAIN VALVE INSTALLATION

If you live in a climate that has a seasonal swim season due to winter, you should follow these

long term freezing precautions.

If you live in an area that experiences freezing tempera-

tures, the heat exchanger/water coil and bypass plumbing

must have all water removed to prevent damage to the heat

pump system. This procedure should be done prior to the

first freeze along with your other pool winterizing routine.

When you drain the filter system and piping you should in-

clude the heat pump as well.

There should be two spigot type drains plumbed into the

heaters water in and water out piping. Place these valves as

close to the heater and at the lowest point possible so as

much water will drain as possible. Install two shut off valves

on the water in and out lines as shown here. The rest of the

water should be blown out with pressurized air to insure all

water is removed. A antifreeze designed for pool equipment

may be used, see a local pool professional.

You may shut the circuit breaker off for the season as

long as you remember to preheat the compressor next

season before start up see start up procedures.

Spigot Type

Drain Valves

Shut the water pump off. Close both shut off

valves. Open both drains and allow water to

exit. Use pressurized air on the water in spigot

only, to force the rest of the water out the other

spigot.

Do not add isolation valves unless you

intend to clear the heat exchanger of water

with pressurized air. Stagnate water left in

the heat exchanger can cause corrosion.

OUT

Shut Off

Valves

CAUTION CAUTION

POSSIBLE CAUSECONDITION POSSIBLE REMEDY

All control lights off.

Unit will not start.

Control Ready light ON.

Water Press. OK light OFF.

T-Stat On light OFF.

Low & High Press. lights OFF.

Unit will not start.

Low water flow through heater. Dirty or worn

filters or clogged lint traps. Clogged filter pump

impeller. Improper plumbing valve settings.

Suction leak allowing air into the water flow.

Internal water pressure switch failure.

No power supply to heater. Tripped breaker or

blown fuse. Control failure. Reset breaker. Replace fuse. Call dealer for

advise. Call factory for advise.

Clean entire filtering system and or replace

filter element. Inspect & clean pump impel-

ler. Adjust plumbing valves. Repair suc-

tion air leaks, grease pump lid o-ring. Re-

place filter. Replace water pressure switch.

Control Ready light ON.

Water Press. OK light ON.

T-Stat On light OFF.

Low & High Press. lights OFF.

Unit will not start.

Thermostat is not set higher than the pool/spa

water temperature. The water temperature has

reached the maximum setting. The thermostat

is malfunctioning. (Dual thermostat), the pool

spa select switch is not in the correct mode.

Turn the thermostat up to the "right" more.

Use a high quality thermometer to test the

water temperature. Maximum water tem-

perature is 104˚F + or - 3˚F. Call your dealer

for advise. Call the factory for advise.

Control Ready light ON.

Unit is cycling on & off. Low or restricted water flow through heater.

Dirty or worn filters or clogged lint traps.

Clogged filter pump impeller. Improper plumb-

ing valve settings. Suction leak allowing air

into the water flow. Low water flow when

switched to spa mode. Unit is plumbed back-

wards. Heat exchanger clogged with debris.

Internal bypass valve damaged or clogged with

debris.

Clean entire filtering system and or replace

filter element. Inspect & clean pump impel-

ler. Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair

suction air leaks, grease pump lid o-ring.

Replace filter. Wrong filter pump pipe size.

Automatic pool vacuum causing restriction.

Call your dealer for advise. Call the fac-

tory for advise.

Control Ready light ON.

Water Press. OK light ON.

T-Stat On light ON.

Low Press. light OFF.

High Press. light OFF.

Unit will not start.

Unit is forming ice or frost on the

outer air coil, usually at the bottom.

Outside air temperature below operating range

of 40˚F., unit is in "defrost" mode. Discharge

air flow is restricted. Discharge air is accumu-

lating and being drawn back through the outer

air coil. The fan is obstructed, low air flow.

Large amounts of roof run off water restricting

fan blade rotation. Sprinklers spraying on the

outer air coil during cooler temperatures. Outer

air coil clogged with debris. Plants too close to

heater, blocking air flow. Low refrigerant pres-

sure caused by a Freon™ leak. Possible mal-

functioning of the internal low refrigerant pres-

sure switch.

Do not try to operate the heater when the

outside air temperature drops below 36˚F

and 45˚F with very high humidity or high

wind speed. Make sure heater is installed

with the required placement clearances for

air flow and roof clearance. Do not install

indoors. Make sure that your sprinklers do

not spray on the heater in any way what so

ever. If ice forms on the outer coil, shut the

heater off and allow ice to thaw. You may

use water at low pressure to thaw ice build

up on the outer coil, shut the heater off when

doing so. Call the factory for advice.

Control Ready light ON.

Water Press. OK light ON.

T-Stat On light ON.

Low Press. light ON.

High Press. light OFF.

Unit will not start.

Low or restricted water flow through heater.

Dirty or worn filters or clogged lint traps.

Clogged filter pump impeller. Improper plumb-

ing valve settings. Suction leak allowing air

into the water flow. Low water flow when

switched to spa mode. Unit is plumbed back-

wards. Heat exchanger clogged with debris.

Internal bypass valve damaged or clogged with

debris. Water temperature exceeding 104˚F

maximum. Refrigerant system malfunction.

Clean entire filtering system and or replace

filter element. Inspect & clean pump impel-

ler. Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair

suction air leaks, grease pump lid o-ring.

Replace filter. Wrong filter pump pipe size.

Automatic pool vacuum causing restriction.

Thermostat not shutting unit off at 104˚F.

Call your dealer for advise. Call the fac-

tory for advise.

Risk of electrical shock or electrocution.

Improper installation will create an electrical hazard which could result in death or serious injury to pool users,

installers, or others due to electrical shock, and may also cause damage to property.

Do NOT attempt any internal adjustments inside the heater.

1. Keep your hands and hair clear of the fan blades to avoid injury.

2. If you are not familiar with your pool filtering system and heater:

a. Do not attempt to adjust or service without consulting your dealer, professional pool or air conditioning

contractor.

b. Read the entire Owner and Installation Manual before attempting to use, service

or adjust the heater or pool filtering system.

WARNING

OWNER TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE

Control Ready light ON.

Water Press. OK light ON

T-Stat On light ON

Fan is not turning.

Unit will not start.

Low water flow through heater. Dirty or worn

filters or clogged lint traps. Clogged filter pump

impeller. Improper plumbing valve settings.

Wait for the 90 second compressor time delay.

Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-

ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.

Adjust plumbing valves. Call factory or dealer.

Compressor has not started yet. Low water flow

through heater. Dirty or worn filters or clogged

lint traps. Clogged filter pump impeller. Im-

proper plumbing valve settings.

All control lights ON

Fan is turning, no cool air dis-

charging out the top of heater.

Unit is not heating.

Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-

ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.

Adjust plumbing valves. Call the factory for

advice.

Spa will not heat to maximum

temperature of 104˚F + or - 3˚.

Thermostat is turned all the way

up.

Spa is heating very slowly.

Low or restricted water flow through heater.

Dirty or worn filters or clogged lint traps.

Clogged filter pump impeller. Improper plumb-

ing valve settings. Suction leak allowing air

into the water flow. Low water flow when

switched to spa mode or the control is not in

spa mode. Unit is plumbed backwards. Heat

exchanger clogged with debris. Internal bypass

valve damaged or clogged with debris. Your spa

thermometer is not reading the correct tempera-

ture. Air blower is running. Venturi air inlets

are open. It is very cold outside. Spa pump is

not running.

Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-

ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.

Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair suction air

leaks, grease pump lid o-ring. Shut off air

blower and or Venturi inlets that allow air tur-

bulence in the spa. Use a cover while heating

the spa. Outside air temp. too cold. Set spa

pump timer for longer time. Call your dealer

for advise. Call the factory for advice.

Pool is heating very slowly.

Pool is not getting up to tempera-

ture.

Low or restricted water flow through heater.

Dirty or worn filters or clogged lint traps.

Clogged filter pump impeller. Improper plumb-

ing valve settings. Suction leak allowing air

into the water flow. It is cold outside. Pool pump

timer is not set for a long enough running pe-

riod. Pool is not covered. High wind speed

over pool. Shaded pool area.

Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-

ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.

Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair suction air

leaks, grease pump lid o-ring. Use a pool cover.

Place a wind break around pool. Set pool pump

timer longer. Call your dealer for advise. Call

the factory for advice.

For dual thermostat units:

Unit is in pool mode but spa is

on, or unit is in spa mode but

pool is on.

The optional motorized plumbing valves are out

of synchronization with the dual thermostat con-

trol. The motor valves are not turning. The

manual pool/spa valves have not been turned

correctly. A third party external control device

is overriding the dual control. Motor valves have

a tendency to rotate after a power outage and

then they are out of sync.

Use the motor valve actuator switches so the

valves go to the mode selected on the dual ther-

mostat pool/spa select switch. Grease motor

valves. Adjust manual valves correctly. Adjust

third party control device. Possible defective

motor valve. Call your installer for advise. Call

the factory for advise.

Compressor will not start. Fan

comes on, compressor time de-

lay passes, compressor attempts

to star but unit shuts all the way

off ( and or circuit breaker trips).

Restricted water flow through heater. Dirty or

filters or clogged lint traps. Clogged filter pump

impeller. Improper plumbing valve settings.

Suction leak allowing air into the water flow.

Low water flow when switched to spa mode.

Compressor was not preheated properly.

Clean entire filtering system and or replace fil-

ter element. Inspect & clean pump impeller.

Adjust all plumbing valves. Repair suction air

leaks, grease pump lid o-ring. Replace filter.

Have a licensed electrician check the power sup-

ply voltage and wire size. Call your installer

for advise. Call the factory for advise.

The heater produces water condensation when

it operates. The water will trickle from the drain

holes designed in the bottom of the heater. The

higher the humidity the more water condensa-

tion the heater will produce. This is similar to

the effect that a glass of ice water has when it

sweats. Corrosive pool water, chemical damage

to water tubing inside heater. Chlorinator is not

isolated from the heater, chlorine migration.

Water running from the bottom

of the heater when it is running.

The heater seems to have a wa-

ter leak.

Shut the heater off for several hours but leave

the pool water pump running. Allow enough

time for all the normal condensation to evapo-

rate. If the heater continues to trickle water af-

ter that time, when it is not running, you may

have a pool water leak. You can test this water

for chlorine to confirm. Make sure your chlori-

nator has a check valve and loop installed be-

tween the heater & chlorinator.

MANDATORY BONDING TO POOL STEEL

(This is in addition to electrical ground)

Make sure that the unit cabinet is bonded to the pool steel.

Most codes require that the circulation pump be bonded

as well. You can connect at that point using at least a #6

gauge or larger solid copper wire. Use the external bond

lug on the cabinet to insure a good bond.

Bonding the unit to the pool steel will help reduce the

chance of electrolysis, also know as electrical corrosion.

A heater left un-bonded may experience corrosion to the

metal water tubing inside the heater.

Unit has 3/4” knockout on left side of unit.

A pool water pump bond wire lug is in the same location.

The wire path from the knockout to the main contactor is about 3 feet.

Line side of the main contactor will be on the top.

The model number is located on a silver label on the front of the unit.

UNIT IDENTIFICATION

IN SOME CASES WE HAVE SPECIFIED “BETTER” THAN N.E.C. CODE THEREFORE, THE

MANUFACTURERS SPECIFICATION “BECOMES” THE CODE FOR THAT PARTICULAR UNIT.

NOTE: TECHNICIANS SEE SEPARATE INSTALLATION MANUAL FOR EXACT DETAILS.

ELECTRICAL WIRING SPECIFICATIONS

#8 Solid

Copper

Circulation

Pump

External

Bond Wire Lug

To Pool Steel

WARNING

The heater must be electrically grounded and bonded in accordance with local codes, or in the

absence of local codes, with the latest national electrical codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. All wiring

must comply with all local codes, or in the absence of local codes, with the latest national electri-

cal codes ANSI/NFPA No. 70. For proper wire and/or breaker size, please refer to specification

sheet and your local licensed electrician.

CAUTION

HOW TO GET SERVICE

When you experience trouble with your unit, you should follow these simple procedures before requesting service

on your pool/spa heat pump.

1. You should follow all start up procedures as described in this booklet. Without exception you should clean the

filtering system thoroughly, consult the manufacturers directions for proper filter cleaning methods. You must

eliminate any water flow or filtering system problems. Check all electrical service, breakers and switches.

2. Inform your dealer that the unit is having trouble and you would like them to check the unit for any obvious non

warranty problems, including but not limited to: installation specifications, water flow and filtration problems,

bypass adjustment, timers and control devices or any field installed options that may effect normal operation of the

heat pump.

3. Make sure the filtering system and any control devices are properly adjusted and corrected before you request

service from the factory. These listed items and others like them are not considered factory defects. If the factory

authorized warranty service is sent to the site and no factory defects are found or there is a problem not associated

with the unit as it was manufactured, the pool owner will be liable for all charges. Water flow adjustments, filter

cleaning, and control devices, etc. that effect the heater or damage caused by such equipment is not covered under

the warranty agreement. The pool owner is responsible for the correct adjustment and maintenance of the filtering

system.

4. If the dealer is unavailable to help you, the factory service manager will assist you or your pool service over the

phone. The service manager will give suggestions on how to check the filtering system and other obvious prob-

lems. You may save yourself the cost of a service call and learn more about your pool heat pump if you take the

time to seek advise before requesting the factory service crew. Literature can be sent to you directly that will help

you understand the heat pump system.

5. Once you have made contact with the dealer or the factory service department make sure that you can be present

when the heater is serviced. The authorized factory service centers will require the pool owner or dealer be

present.

Required Information:

Heat Pump Service Department

12155 Metro Pkwy, Ste. 5 Serial #

Ft. Myers Florida 33912 Model # ____________,

941-768-1555 Install Date ___ / ___ /___

941-768-2856 Fax Dealer Name ______________________

www.warmpool.com

The actual receipt or canceled check may be needed to verify installation date and proof of ownership.

Any service request resulting in a repair or adjustment not considered a factory defect with the heater as it

was manufactured will be the responsibility of the heater owner and therefore billed directly to the owner.

Always read and follow the owners manual and then seek advice from your dealer and / or the installer.

BE ADVISED THERE ARE SEPARATE INSTALLATION, SERVICE & ACCESSORY MANUALS.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS

A/C Contractor: A company licensed by the state and local au-

thorities to perform heating ventilation and air-conditioning in-

stallation or repair including pool heat pumps. Allow no others to

repair this unit.

Acetic: Describing pool/spa water that is aggressive in nature with

a Ph value below 7.6. Like acid, orange juice, vinegar etc.

Accumulator: a containment housing in the Freon circuit that col-

lects liquid forms freon that does not evaporate after passing through

the evaporator coil, thus protecting the compressor from damage.

Air Blower: An electronic device that forces air under pressure

through the spa plumbing giving the spa a bubbling effect.

Air Inlet: Used to create bubbling effects for the spa jets. Water

passing through a vortex draws air into the plumbing without the

use of an electronic air blower. Usually controlled by some sort of

knob or lever to shut it on or off.

Alkaline: Describing pool/spa water that is the opposite of acetic

with a Ph value above 7.6. Base, like milk or chalk etc.

Anti Short Cycle Time Delay Device: Keeps the compressor from

being damaged due to the freon gas not being allowed to settle

between cycles, preventing liquid freon from entering the com-

pressor. When the unit stops there will be a certain time delay

before the compressor will start again.

Automatic Chlorinator: A device that feeds either tablet type or

liquid type chlorine concentration into the plumbing piping and

then delivered to the pool/spa water.

Authorized Factory Service: An A/C Contractor factory trained

and under contract with the manufacturer to provide repair ser-

vice.

Back-Siphon: In regards to pool filtering systems where the water

flow reverses through the system when the circulation pump shuts

off. This is usually caused by the vacuum created by the water in

the filtering being above the pool level, or breach in the sealed

water plumbing, allowing air into the system. This condition is

sometimes referred to as a suction or vacuum leak.

Back Pressure: The pressure created by the circulation pump be-

ing restricted by plumbing, filters, solar panels and other related

equipment. Usually due to a dirty filter, measured by the pressure

gauge in the filter housing

Blanket: A plastic cover several mills thick with trapped air bubbles,

cut to the same size as the pool and floats on top of the water to

provide insulation and prevent heat loss. Some types collect small

amounts of heat from the sun and transfer it to the pool water.

Sometimes referred to as a solar blanket.

BTU: British Thermal Units. Measures heat output of a heat pump,

in Btu’s per hour.

Broadcast Type Sprinklers: Part of an irrigation system used to

water plants or grass where the water is sprayed into the air and

distributed directional.

Bypass: Used in the water piping to allow the control of water

flow through the heater at a prescribed rate, thus the rest of the

water flow not needed is diverted through the bypass

Calcium Hardness: The amount of calcium and magnesium con-

tent in pool/spa water calculated by using a test kit for such pur-

poses.

Calcium Hypochlorite: A form of chlorine in a powder form and

rarely in a tablet form used to sanitize pool/spa water. Calcium is

a major component and by-product.

Cartridge Filter: A pool/ spa water filter that is made of pleated

paper and nylon. Usually round with plastic base and top, placed

into a tank that the water is pumped through trapping debris and

dirt. Usually removed and cleaned with a high pressure garden

hose.

Check Valve: A P.V.C. fitting used on the water piping to prevent

reverse flow through the system and insure proper water direction.

Sometimes used to create back pressure and slow the water veloc-

ity.

Chemical Values: The numerical reading you get by using a pool/

spa water test kit to calculate levels of pool chemicals and miner-

als in the pool water at any given time.

Chemical Damage: Any damage or corrosion from pool chemicals

or any other chemicals used around the heat pump or pool. Usu-

ally concentrated chlorine or acetic water corroding the copper

piping or the heat exchanger or other equipment.

Chemical Resistant Check Valve: A check valve placed between

the heater and a chlorinator to prevent the migration of concen-

trated chlorine into the heater.

Chlorinator: A device that is used to feed chlorine to the pool/spa

through the filtering system. Water is pumped through a contain-

ment holding the chlorine. This makes a solution that is then fed to

the pool or spa.

Chlorinator Placement: (Illustrated in this owners manual), show-

ing the proper location and placement of chlorinating devices in

order to prevent chemical damage to the heater.

Chlorine: A common pool/spa water sanitizer available in several

different forms of powder, solid tablets, liquid or gas.

Chlorine Tablets: A common form of chlorine that is solid in na-

ture used in a chlorinator that is eroded by water rushing over these

tablets, making a solution to be slowly fed to the pool water.

Circuit Breaker: An automatic switch that will shut the power off

to an electrical device (heater, circulation pump) when an over-

load or short occurs. Located in the electrical supply panel in your

home or near the associated equipment.

Circulation Pump: An electric water pump that circulates water

through the filter and other pool related equipment. Usually con-

trolled by a timer.

Condensation: Water that accumulates inside the heater due to the

humidity in the air coming in contact with the colder freon piping

in the evaporator coil. This water will trickle out of the drain ports

on the bottom of the heater. Like sweat on a glass of ice water.

Control Devices: Electronic devices used to manipulate the pool/

spa functions and equipment other than those manufactured into

the heater itself. Sometimes by remote control, switches or sen-

sors.

Convection: The transfer of heat from between two mediums, of

different temperatures, in this case from hot to cold, from warm

pool to cooler outside air

Compressor: A reciprocating piston in a cylinder, much like a car

engine, that compresses freon gas in a chamber before it is re-

leased to the heat exchanger.

Commercial Pool: A pool for public use or for the use of commu-

nity residents that are governed by state and local codes. Usually

larger than a residential pool with a larger capacity filtering sys-

tem, running at a high rate of water flow.

Copper Piping: The piping inside the unit as it was manufactured,

leading up to the heat exchanger.

Corrosion: The dissolving of the metals in the heater due to chemi-

cal action.

Cover: Used to cover the pool surface and prevent heat loss, re-

ferred to as a blanket.

Cupronickel Metal Alloy: A special metal blend copper and nickel

that is corrosion resistant.

Cycle: Referred to here as, on and off repeatedly, either the fan

and or compressor.

D.E. Filter: A filter type that uses diatomaceous earth powder as a

filter media. The D.E. is discharged with the debris via a valve

that reverses flow through the filter. This is referred to as back-

washing. The D.E. must then be replaced in the filter.

Dealer: As authorized by agreement, with the factory to sell and

install this particular brand of heat pump.

Defrost Control: An internal device that will prevent the evapora-

tor coil from getting an ice build up when the outside air tempera-

ture drops below 36 degrees. It will shut the compressor off, but

allow the fan to run until the air temperature increases.

Down Line: A reference that pertains to chlorinator placement and

chemical application meaning, to introduce such, into the water

flow piping, after it passes through the heater, as far away from the

unit as possible.

Drain Holes: Located in the heater cabinet bottom, that allows the

condensation water produced normally to drain out.

Drain Plug: A type of valve installed on the plumbing near the

heater to allow the heat exchanger to be completely drained of

pool water to prevent freeze damage in such climates.

Dry Acid Powder: A dry powder (sodium bisulfate) used to lower

Ph in pool or especially spa water.

Dual Thermostat: A kit added to the unit to allow for two separate

thermostats to be used for a pool and spa sharing the same heater.

It is also capable of other functions such as motorized valve opera-

tion.

Initial Heat Up Time: The time required to heat the pool up to the

desired temperature when you turn the unit on for the first time.

When the pool water temperature is at its lowest temperature.

Electrocution: To be shocked by electrical current, to have electri-

cal current pass through your body resulting in death or injury.

Elevation: The height of the installed unit, in comparison to the

pool water level.

Evaporation: When referring to heat loss of the pool water, when

the pool water changes from a liquid to a gas then dissipates into

the air, taking heat away with it.

Evaporator Coil: The aluminum and copper air/freon manifold

that is used to change the properties of the Freon as it passes through

it. The warmer air is forced through the fins to produce the reac-

tion due to dissimilar temperatures.

Expansion Valve: A control valve that regulates the Freon pressure

to the evaporator coil.

Fan: Used to move air through the evaporator coil.

Fan Blades: The aluminum mechanism that moves the air through

the unit. Located on top of the cabinet. Caution: fan blades can be

sharp and cause injury.

Filter: Use to clean the pool water by pumping water through a

media that collects debris and is cleaned later as part of regular

pool maintenance.

Filter System: The equipment installed to circulate and clean the

pool water usually consisting of an electric water pump on a timer,

a filter containment, flow control valves, and other equipment

needed for that particular pool and/or spa.

Floating Chlorinator: A device that floats on the pool waters sur-

face that feeds chlorine to the water by eroding solid tablet type

chlorine, inside its containment.

Floating Thermometer: A thermometer that floats on the water

surface with the main sensing bulb in the water. Indicates the ac-

tual pool or spa temperature it’s floating in. A tie on type will

work the same.

Flow Control Valve: A valve or check valve that controls water

flow either automatically or manually.

Freon™: Trade name for a type of refrigerant. The heat transfer

medium used to transfer the generated heat to the pool water, in

the vapor compression cycle of the heat pump system. Changing

from a gas to a liquid state in cycles.

Full Prime: A reference used to describe a water pump running

normally without air entering into the system, running at full ca-

pacity.

Gas Chlorine: Chlorine in a pure state, gas.

G.P.M. : Gallons per minute, used to measure flow rate

Heat & Cool: The unit, the heater, the appliance referenced in this

manual. A reverse cycle unit capable of both heating and cooling.

Heat Exchanger: A manifold where the compressed hot freon gas

transfers its heat to the pool water. A tube within a tube. Hot freon

gas passing through one tube and water passing through the other

tube, bent in a coiled fashion. Made from a cupronickel metal

alloy.

Heat Loss: The act of the pool losing heat due to certain conditions

such as weather, wind, evaporation, radiance, convection etc.

Heat Pump: The unit, the heater, the appliance referenced in this

manual.

Hydro-Therapy Jets: Used in spas to create high pressure water

flow with air turbulence. Water is forced through a restriction that

creates a vortex that draws air into the water flow thus increasing

velocity. This air flow is usually regulated by a manual control.

Icing Up: Ice forming on the evaporator coil.

In Line Type Chlorinator: A chlorinating device that is mounted

directly on the piping, that has an internal manifold within the

plumbing, used to allow water flow through the containment, where

a solid tablet type chlorine is held. This type requires no water

tubing in and out of the containment.

Injection: In regard to feeding pool chemicals into the water flow

in whatever fashion.

Installer: Same as dealer, person or company where the unit was

purchased.

Internal Adjustments: Any part or component inside the cabinet of

the unit.

Lint Trap Basket: A strainer type basket that collects debris and

prevents such from being trapped in other equipment, including

the heat exchanger.

Liquid Chlorine: Chlorine in a liquid form, (sodium hypochlorite).

Long Term Freeze: When the outside air temperature drops below

36 degrees as part of a seasonal weather change lasting for an ex-

tended period of time.

Marcite: A white plaster type pool wall and surface finishing ma-

terial made of white Portland cement and marble dust.

Migrate: Referring to concentrated chlorine moving through the

filter system plumbing with or without the water flowing.

Motorized Plumbing Valves: Valves that are driven by low volt-

age motors mounted on top of such a valve. Usually used to change

from pool to spa mode via a control switch or device without hav-

ing to go to the filter system and turn these valves manually.

Muriatic Acid: A liquid acid that is used to lower the Ph of pool

water. Handle with extreme caution. (Use a dry powder acid for

spas.)

Normal Operation: When the heat pump is running as intended by

the manufacturer.

Nozzle Attachment: A device attached to the end of a garden hose,

that increases pressure and controls direction.

On/Off Switch: Located on the unit next to the thermostat dial use

to shut the unit off and on, so you do not have to move the thermo-

stat or shut off the circuit breaker to control the unit.

O-Ring: A round rubber gasket that is used for sealing removable

access lids to pool filtering equipment and other related items.

Ph: A term used when determining the alkalinity or acetic nature

of water.

Pool/Spa Combination: When you have a pool and spa together,

where the two body’s of water are connected by a spill-over or

other plumbing means.

PPM: Parts per million. Use as a term to tell you how much of a

certain chemical ratio is in the water.

Pressure Switch: A device inside the heater, that senses water pres-

sure and keeps the unit from running when there is little or no

water flow going through it.

Radiant Heat Loss: When the water loses heat through the walls

and floor of the pool shell.

Return: The term used to indicate water flow direction back to the

pool, after it passes through the filtering system. There are ori-

fices in the pool called return outlets.

Run Dry: When any pool equipment is running without water,

usually causing some sort of damage.

Serial Number: A twelve digit number on the identification sticker

on the outside of the heater cabinet. Needed for all records, war-

ranty request etc.

Shadow-Box Fence: A fence that is made to allow air to pass

through it freely without restriction.

Shock Treatment: Adding a larger than normal dose of chlorine to

the pool water to kill contaminates, algae and to remove combined

chlorine.

Short Cycle: The act of the compressor going on and off without

letting the refrigerant gas to settle.

Short Term Freeze: When the outside air temperature drops below

36 degrees for a short period of time, usually for only a few days

or so, but not part of a normal seasonal change where lower tem-

peratures are expected as a norm.

Sodium Hypochlorite: A liquid form of chlorine.

Skimmer: A housing mounted at the pool water level in the pool

wall and deck, that is used to capture debris as water is drawn into

it. The water is drawn in by the suction created by the circulation

pump.

Skimmer Basket: The strainer type debris catch, inside the skim-

mer housing that keeps debris from clogging other related equip-

ment.

Skimmer Inlet: The square opening right at the pool water level,

flush with the pool wall.

Skimmer Throat: The main cavity of the skimmer where the skim-

mer basket is located.

Solar Panels: A manifold placed on a roof top, to collect heat from

the sun and transfer it to the pool water being pumped through it.

Spa: a smaller body of water using hotter water temperature and

high pressure water flow mixed with air to create a therapy effect.

Sprinkler Heads: Irrigation water distribution device, placed in ar-

eas of the yard that broadcast water to the surrounding area.

Surge Tank: Part of a filtering system that holds a specific amount

of water to supply the circulation pump. Filter elements are some-

times placed in this tank so when the pump suctions water through

them it cleans the water. This tank is fed pool water through plumb-

ing piped from the pool by gravity.

Temperature Rise/Difference: A calculation used to determine how

many degrees the water passing through the heat exchanger is in-

creased in order to set it at a prescribed difference.

Thermometer: Used to determine the actual pool or spa water tem-

perature. Sometimes a floating type or a tie on type.

Thermostat: Located on the unit itself, used to set the desired tem-

perature you would like the actual pool or spa water to be.

The unit will activate if the water temperature is below the set-

ting. The unit will shut off when the water temperature has reached

that particular setting.

Three-Way Valve: A plumbing valve that controls water flow hav-

ing three ports in which to connect plumbing to.

Timer: A timing device that activates the water circulation pump

according to preset times.

Time Delay: A device inside the heater, that will delay the com-

pressor from running until the refrigerant gas and crank case oil

settle, before allowing the compressor to run, preventing damage

to the compressor..

Trickle Type Sprinkler: An irrigation distributor that does not broad-

cast water into the air but slowly waters the surrounding ground

directly.

Vacuum Type Filter: A filter on the suction side of the circulation

pump usually mounted inside a surge tank. Water is drawn through

the filter media trapping debris.

Variable Rate Flow Control Valve: The "internal" valve used to as

a bypass for the heater water flow. This spring type valve will

automatically adjust the water flow rate to the unit when the flow

rate changes for what ever reason, (30 to 70 G.P.M. range).

Water Coil: Same as heat exchanger.

Water Chemical Balance: The standard pool water test and chemi-

cal amounts and values, that the water needs to be considered bal-

anced, according to standard practice.

This page is blank.

Manufactured by:

941-768-1555

www.warmpool.com

Heat Pumps

Pentair Hp 400 600 800 1000 230 Users Manual

XLS1000 to the manual 8e9933e6-b597-43ab-a02d-e403bb4e3d90

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