Sears 385 17724 Users Manual

38517724490 38517724490 KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides L0808366 View the owners manual for your KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #38517724490. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore SEWING MACHINE Manual

KENMORE Electronic Sewing Manual L0808366 KENMORE Electronic Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Electronic Sewing installation guides

385.17724 L0808366

385.17724 to the manual c1ff63c9-071c-4295-8a32-be2573c458e9

2015-02-05

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Page Count: 68

OWN ER'SMANUAL
SEWING MACHINE
MODEL _385._17724_ _O
IMPORTANT SAFETY
nNSTRUCTIONS
Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.
Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.
DAN G E _- To reduce the risk of electric shock:
t. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always
unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using
and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated
15 Watts.
3. Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug
immediately.
4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub
or sink. Do not place {n or drop into water or other liquid.
WAR Ni NG- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,
or miury to persons.
t.
2_
3.
Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this
appliance is used by or near children.
Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manuat.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in
this manual.
Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not
working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into
water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service
center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep
ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from
accumulation of tint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or Insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where
oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ('0") position, then remove
p!ug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the
cord,
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required
around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle ptate. The wrong plate can cause the
needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
It may deflect the needle causing _t to break.
14. Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in
the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading
bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical .outlet when
removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments
mentioned in the instruction manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested in avery fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tenston adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please _emember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record m space provided below the modef number and serial
number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385, Serial No,
Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE,
SECTION
SECTION
SECTI ON
TABLE
1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable case or Cabinet is Available ............... 2
Locate and Identify the parts ................ 2_'3
identify the Accessories ...................... 4
2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_9
ePlug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 5
oFoot Control Use .......................... 5
oSetthe Pressure Dial ......................... 6
oSetting Spool Pins .......................... 7
= Adjust the Presser Foot Lever ............. 7
a Accessory Storage Box .................... 8
•Free Arm Sewing: the Removal Extension Table . _ .8"9
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............ 10_!3
oCheck Your Presser Foot .................... 10
a Change the Presser Foot ...................... 10
•Presser FootTypes ........... , ............ 11"_13
Choose Your Needle and Thread , . , ........... 13_14
oCheck Your Needle ........................ 13
o Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ..... 14
oTo Change Your Needle ....................... 14
Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 15_16
o To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine ......... 15
•Wind the Bobbin ......................... 15
•insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder ......... 16
Prepare Your Top Thread .................... 17_20
oThread Your Needle ................... t7
oPick Up Your Bobbin Thread ................. 18
oAdjustthe Top Thread Tension .............. 19_20
Stitch Selector .............................. 20
Stitch Width Control ......................... 21
Stitch Length Control ........................ 21
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................ 21
Reverse Stitch Control ........................ 22
Starting To Sew ........................... 22
3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Practical Stitch Chart ..................... 23"_27
Straight Stitches ....................... 28"_29
eStraight Stitch ........................... 28
oUse the Seam Guides ....................... 28
oTurn a Square Corner ...................... 28
•Use the Darning Plate ..................... 29
•Topstitching ............................ 29
OF CONTENTS
SECTION 4.
SECTION 5.
Darning .............................. 30
Straight Stretch ........................... 30
Zigzag Stitches .......................... 31_38
oBasic Zigzag ........................... 31
o Satin Stitch ............................ 32
o Applique ..................... 33
Bar Tacking ......................... 33
oMonogramming ........................ 34
oEmbroidery ......................... 34
oSewa Button .......................... 35
o Overcasting Stitch ........................ 36
•Rick-Rack Stretch ...................... 36
oThree-Step Zigzag ....................... 37
Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 38
• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ 38
Blind Hemming ............................ 39
Lace Work ................................ 40
Buttonhole Making ........................ 41_47
•Learning to Sew Buttonholes ................ 41
o Built-in System ........................ 42_-43
oUsing Buttonhole Attachment ............... 44_47
Sew in a Zipper .......................... 48_49
Shell Stitching ............................ 50
Two-Point Shell Stitching ...................... 50
Smocking ............................... 51
Stretch Patching ........................... 52
Fagoting Stitch ........................... 52
Herring Bone Stretch ......................... 52
Elastlc Stretch Stitch ......................... 53
Box Stitching .............................. 53
Two-point Box Stitch ........................ 54
Overedging Stitch ........................... 54
Decorate with Geometric Patterns ............... 55
PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
When to Do When ........................ 56"_57
CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replace the Light Bulb ........................ 58
Clean the Bobbin Holder ...................... 58
Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs .............. 59
Oiling the Machine .......................... 59
PARTS LIST ...................................... 60"61
_L{!!A role ei_J
,!,Ro_ta :Gase:_:gr_,_Cabmet';tsAva=labl
Afull line of sewing cabinets is available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog,
Another option _ . _ buy a Carrying Case _ , . then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-
where.
k.
(-
i
,J
Upper Thread Guide
Take-up Lever
Top Thread Tension
Control _
Face Cover Plate
Thread Cutter
Needle Plate
Thread Spool Pins
Base
I
Bobbin Winding Spindle
Stitch Width Control
Stitch Length Control
Reverse Stitch Control
Arm Cover Pla_,e
Hand Wheel
Push-Pull CIu[ch
Sti[ch Selector
Stretcll S_tch Adiuster _
Light and
Power Sw_[ct_ ,_/
/
Plug Con nector
\Carrytng Handfe
Presser
Free Arm
Nomenclature Plate
Presser Foot
Thumb Screw
Foot
Foot Control
Snap-on Button
Thread Guide
Needle Clamp
3
f
Bobbin Buttonhole opener Needle set Lint brush
Darning plate Large screw driver Small screw dr_ver
YSpoo{ pin felt
Zipper toot Straight
stHch |oot
Siiding
buttonhole toot
Satin stitch
toot
Buttonhole guide
plate Base plate
Buttonhole templates _
Buttonhole toot
4
o Plug m the Machine and Switch on the Power
f
Power suppty plug
Power
switch
NOTE.
Plug
connector
Machine
plug
Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power sw_tch ts
OFF.
1. Check your outlet to be sureitls a 110to t20
Vott AC outlet.
2. insert the machine plug into the three-prong
outlet, as shown, ft will only fit one way.
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
Sewing ligl_l
Power sw_ tch
k_ J
4. Push the light and power sw_tch to turn
on the power and sewing light.
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power switch is turned on. If you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power sw_tch to prevent injury to
chitdren.
• Foot Cont_o| Use
I: ..... /.t ..... ::;,;::;,,L ........... !
/
Foot control
The foot control regulates the speed at
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your foot.
To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
sure slightly.
NOTE: The foot control is sensmve and
wilt increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.
o Setthe Pressure Dial
The pressure control dial is located }nside the face cover plate,
Set the dial aligning the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows.
3 ..... most sew}ng
2 ..... applique and Cut-Out work
t ..... basting,'sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and other lightweight fabrics.
Also for velours and knits iwJth more stretch).
NOTE: The pressure dia} should be reset at 3 after changing pressure, so
the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use
it.
o SettingSpool Pins
(.- ....
Spool pin tel_._ ,--
Spoo_ p_n .... I
The spool pins are used for holding the
spools of thread m order to feed thread to
the machine,
To use, putl up the spool pins. Place the
spool felt on the pros, Push down for
storage,
a
F
Adjust the Presser Foot Lever
Normat up
pl_stllOn
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your
presser foot,
You can ratse it about 174" higher than the normal
up position for easy removal of the presser foot or
to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser
foot.
o Thread Cutter
You don*t need a pair of scissors to cut the
thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
handy thread cutter.
The threads are cut the proper length for
starting the next seam,
AccessoryStorage Box
The lid of the accessory storage box lifts
open toward you,
Sewing accessories are conveniently tocated
tn the box.
oFree-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
To remove:
\
\
To Remove the Extension Table
(for free-arm sewing)
1. Grip the table wtth your index finger and thumb,
as shown.
2. Pull gently toward you_
The extenston table w_lt snap out.
To Attach:
Extension table
jlot
To Attach the Extension Table
(for flat-bed sewing)
1. Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown.
2. With your thumb and index finger, gent|y snap in.
Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing,
This feature makes sewing easy for:
J
Bar tacking to reinforce pockets, plackets
and waistlines on ready-made or home-
made garments to avoid fabric bunching
around the needle.
* Stitchingsleeves,waistbands,pant_egs0
oranycirculargarmentarea. * Darningsocksormendingknees,elbows,
orareasofwearinchildren'sclothes. * Sewingbuttonsonsleeves,waistbands,
etc.
Check Your PresserFoot
The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine, You need to know
what each foot does in order to use them effectively.
Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder. Each presser foot merely
snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed.
If you need to remove or attach the foot holder, here is what you do:
=Change the Presser Foot
Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew, Consult the
Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various
presser feet.
To Remove:
Foot
holder
SCreW
To Remove: To Attach:
Turn the screw toward the back of 1. Match
the machine. Use the large screw
driver.
To Attach:
Presser bar --
2_
3.
the hole in the foot
holder with the threaded hole in
the presser bar.
Fit the foot holder screw into
the hole,
Tighten the screw by turning it
toward you.
To Snap Off:
I
To Snap Off the Presser Foot:
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel
toward you,
2, Raise the presser foot.
3. Press the snap-on button on tile back of the foot holder. The presser
foot will drop off.
10
e Presser Foot Types
Zigzag Foot
f
Straight Foot
f
To Snap On
f
Gr°°ve _ P_
To Snap On the Presser Foot:
1. Place the presser foot so the hori-
zontal pin on the foot lies just
under the groove of the foot
holder.
2. Lower the presser foot holder to
lock the presser foot in place.
NOTE: If you do not hear the
presser foot snap in place,
press down on the presser
foot holder firmly until you
hear the snap.
A: Zigzag foot
Use this foot .for both straight and zigzag
stitching.
Uses: Zigzag stitching (see page 31),
Bar tacking (seepage 33),
Button sewing (see page 35),
Rick-rack stretch (see page 3_6),
Three-step zigzag (see page 37),
Overcast stretch (seepage 38),
Lace work !see page 40),
Two-point shell stitching
(see page 5__00},
Smocking (see page 51),
Stretch patching (see page 51),
Fagoting (see page 52),
Herring bone stretch (seepage 52),
Elastic stretch (see page 533),
Box stitching (see page 5__3),
Two-point box stitch (see page 54),
Overedging stitch (see page 5_44).
H: Straight foot
Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching
using center needle position only.
Uses: Straight stitching (see page 2__8),
Topstitching (seepage 2__99),
Straight stretch (see page 30).
11
oPresserFoot Types (Continued)
SlidingButtonhole Foot
Slid ing bu ttonhoie foot
Use this foot for buttonholes of built in
system, it is marked to measure your
buttonholes accurately.
Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 42).
Zipper Foot
E: Zipper foot
This foot can be set to sew on each side of
your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the
zipper and keep the seam straight.
Uses: Zipper application (seepage 4_88).
Satin Stitch Foot
F: Sat+r} stitch foo=
Use this transparent foot for satJnstitch and
outlining applique.
Uses: Satin stitch (see page 32),
Applique (see page 33),
Monogramm+ng (see page 3_4_4),
Shell stitching isee page 5_0),
Geometric decoratwe stitching
(see page 5_55).
I2
o PresserFoot Types (Continued)
Buttonhole Foot
t3uttonholo toot
Use this footwhen making buttonholes with
buttonhole attachment system.
Uses: But_onhote making (see page 44)
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.
In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:
Blue (1]) ............ for stretch fabrics
Orange ( t t ) ........ for lightweight fabrics
Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics
Purple (16) ........ for medium-heavy weight and decorative
topstJtchJng on these fabrics
(This needle has a larger thread hole for
thicker topstitch lng thread.)
Green (18) .......... for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top-
stitching on these fabrics
oCheck Your Needle
t_ Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needie can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks
and silk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread, it should resist tangling and be strong,
smooth and consistent in thickness.
13
Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
FABRIC
Lightweight:
Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton 8tends,
Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Piclue_
Seersucker, Satin, Knits,
Vinyl Suntmgs, Linen,
Woof Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Denim, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wool FIannel,
Gabardine, Velvets,
Leather
Heavy Weight:
Coatings, Upholstery
Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills. Canvas
OecoratLve top*stLtchlng
on all types ot fabric
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Knits.
Nylon Tricot, Jersey.
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Cire Tricot
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11-ORANGE
14-RED
14-RED
or
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18*GREEN
11-gLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
THREAD SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Core/Co tton
Wrap
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercerized Heavy-Duty
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Po)yester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
Buttonhole Twist
(Use as top thread only)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
2
(12 stitches per
inch}
2--2,5
|10-12 stntches
per inch)
2-3
(8-10 stitches
per inch )
3
{8 stitches per
inch}
.....3-4 ' '
(6-8 stitches
per inch )
2--2,5
(10-12 stitches
per inch )
14
To Change Your Needle
L. " ; /,
F}et
s_de
away
irom
you
4.
Needle clamp screw
-.,/
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-
tion by turmng the hand wheel toward
you.
t. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turmng nt
toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling it downward,
3, Insert the new needle into the needle clamp
with the flat side away from you,
4. Push the needle up as far as _t will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the
large screwdriver from your accessory storage
box.
'
oTo Remove the Bobbin from the Machine
f
1.
2.
3.
Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide
_t towards you.
Set astde.
Lift out the bobbin, as shown.
NOTE: The bobbin winder stopper can be adjusted for
the amount of thread needed on the bobbin
(example 1/ 2 full or full etc.). To make the
adjustment use your large screw driver and
loosen the screw one turn or tess, This will allow
you to adjust the position of bobbin winder
stopper. Do not take screw all the wayout.
o Wind the Bobbin
Ctu[ch
1. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction
sh own.
2. Putl the clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you
winding the bobbin.
3. Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown.
4. Place the threaded bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle so that the thread comes
out on top,
5. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it clicks.
6. Holding onto end of thread, depress the foot control.
7. When the bobbin is slightly fiIled, stop the machine and clip the thread coming from
the bobbtn.
8. Slowly start the machine again and wind the thread until the bobbin stops.
9. Push the bobbin winder spindie to the }eft and clip the thread,
10, Remove the bobbin.
11. Push in the clutch for normal sewing operation.
15
Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder
Q............. J
1. Put the bobbin into the bobbin
holder so that the thread feeds
counter-cJockwJse lleft).
®
2. Pull about 4 inches of thread
toward you through the tension
slot @ ,.
®
3. Then puft the thread clockwise
toward the back of the machine
through the slot _ -
®
4.
J
Slide the bobbin cover plate while
pushing it down slightly over the
bobbin. Allow about 4 inches of
thread to show above the needle
plate,
chart
* Threading chart is located behind
the face cover plate.
16
The numbered steps above follow the numbers
on the illustrations.
Dotted Lines show places where the thread
loops and then is pulled tight+
2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension
check spring hotder.
3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
4. Draw thread down and slip it through the thread guide.
5+ Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide.
6. Thread needle from front to back..
area and then around the
NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp sctssors for easmr needle threading.
17
1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold 2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling
needle thread loosely in left hand top thread..
and rotate handwheel toward
you one complete turn.
K
3. Pull both threads under and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving 4
to 6 inches of thread clear.
18
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
Top s_deof fabric
Top.
thread
J
2
Se[t_ng mark
L°°sen _/_ _
Tighten
For Straight Stitch
The ideal straight stttch wilt have threads locked between the two layers of
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail.
If you look at the stitch, front and back, you wilt notice that there are no
gaps, that each stitch _ssmooth and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
thread.
Choose the Correct Tension:
The best tension will depend on;
the stiffness and thickness of the fabric
the number of fabric layers
the type of stitch
The top thread
_s too loose.
Top s_de
o! tabr_c
The top thread
appears on me
underside ot [he
fabrtc_
Tension is too loose:
The top thread shows through the
bottom of the fabric. The bottom side
ot the stitch wil! feel bumpy.
The lop thread
is [oo [_gh[
The bobbin thread
appears on the
upper surface o_r the
tabr_c,
k, J
Tension is too tight:
The bobbin thread will come through
the top of the fabric. The top side of
the stitch will feel bumpy.
19
For Zigzag Stitch
In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side
of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See
below for the correct appearance. To match th_s appearance, adjust your top
tension.
Top tension Top tension
Too Tight Too Loose
Top side ot Fabric Top s_de of Fabric
1
t
i!:
Bottom side of Fabric
Too Tight:
-- Corner o| each
zigzag will pull
together on the
top side of Tabrics.
Bottom side of Fabric
Too Loose:
-- The top thread
will loop through
bottom s_de o¢
labrlc and will be
pulled almost
together.
Top s_de of Fabric
Bottom side of Fabric
Just Right:
Mlmm_ze the amount
ot top thread vlsible on
the bottom side ot
labrtc without causing
excessive puckering or
causing #In bobbin
thread to show on the
top side. Results vary
with fabric, t_}read and
sewmg condition&
E3 C3 O C3 E3 E3 C3 C3 EJ _ C3 C3 IC3 R E3 C3 E3 C3 E3
Red
indicator
The stitch selector control determines the stitch you select.
Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator
on the stitch indicator panel. The bottom row of stitches is selected when the
stitch length control is set at the stretch stitch position.
NOTE: To avoid needle or fabr:ic damage, be sure your needle is up and out of
fabric when selecting a stitch.
Stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch length
control.
ZONES
oOrange .......
e Green .........
o Blue .........
a Yellow'. ........
Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches
Geometric Decorative Stitches
Buift-in Buttonhole Making
Stretch Stitches
2O
Width
1234
The stitch width control regulates the
width of the stitch you select.
The higher the number, the wider the
stitch.
Stretch
Length
tttct_
.............. J
The stitch length control regulates the
length of stitch, and also has a stretch
stitches setting.
The higher the number, the longer the
stitch.
0 means no feed.
To select Stretch Stitches, set this
control at Stretch Stitch.
NOTE. When you select decorative
stitches (green} or built-in
buttonhole (blue), make sure
that you do not set the stitch
tengh control at "Stretch
Stitch".
Study the orange, green,
yellow and blue sections
around this control. These
are recommended zones of
stitch length and color-coded
to the stitches pictured on
the stitch indicator panel,
-L-
f
4-
J-
Smocking stretch
"I'i
Rickrack stretch
In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch
adjuster should usually be in a neutral
position (betwee,_ "'+" and "--", or
position). Wizen sewing some fabrics, you
may need to adjust this control to
balance the stitches for appearance sake.
If design seems open like the illustrations
to the left, adjust the control slightly
toward "--" until design looks like the
center design.
If the design appears to be closed as in
the right hand illustrations, turn the
control toward '%" until stitching is as
you desire.
21
Reverse
To reverse stitch, hold down this con-
trol during sewing,
Release to sew forward again.
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine,
you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to fo!low
each time you sit down to sew:
1, Inspect the needle, It shoutd be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size
for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afratd to change your needle frequently. Many of the new
fabrics made ot synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4
inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the
seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabNc should be double thickness. Adjust
the machine for the length of stitch and tenslon suitable to your fabric.
4, Fabric should be placed under the presser foot w_th the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and
the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple
seam,
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the
machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam,
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle, Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way
that the normal feeding is altered,
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
22
;_ Practical Stitch Chart
!Stitch .... I
STRAIGHT
I
t
I
t
t
t
|
I
STRAIGHT
STRETCH
ZIGZAG
RICK-RACK
STRETCH
BLIND HEM
STITCH
Stitch Thread Stitch Stitch
Selection Needle Tension Length Width Referto Page
Check 2 _ 6Orange 0 28 _ 30,
Zone 48 _ 49
i
I
I
I
III
III
IU
III
Foot and Other Attach.
S_ra_gh_
%
Darn mg Zipper
plate foot
Straight
%
Zigzag
Zigzag
Zigzag
Chart
on p. t_44
I
Check 2_ 6
Chart
on p. t4 ,
Check 3 _ 8
Chart
on p. t4
Check 2 _ 6
Chart
on p. 1_44
Check
Chart
on p.14
Yell ow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
Orange
Zone
Uses
Regular searms, zrppers, topstttching, darmng,
etc.
0 Use on knits and other stretch fabrics, good
for topst_tching.
1 _ 5 Fintsh edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique,
monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks.
2_6
Yel low
Stretch
Stitch
Position
2~5 Decorate garments w_th one row or several.
Orange
Zone 2_3 Use for finishing seams.
3O
3! _ 35
36
39
23
24
Stitch Stitch
Stitch SoIection Needle Width Refer to Page
3~ 5 38OVERCAST
STRETCH
=
THREE-STEP
ZIGZAG
SMOCKING
STITCH
J_4
SHELL
STITCH
SERGING
,€
tk
|
Foot and Other Attach. l
t
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Satin
%
Zigzag
%
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Check
Chart
on 13,.14
Blue 111)
on p.14
Thread Stitch
Tension Length
2 _ 6 Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
PosFtion
2~6 0.5~t
2 ~ 6 Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Posmon
4 ~ 9 Orange
Zone
3_6Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
3~5
345
3~5
Uses
Use for swtmwear0 ski pants and other
garments that require stretch.
Use for finishing seams.
Use m smocking or as a decorative stitch,
Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to
overcast and seam,
Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings,
Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to
overcast and seam.
Do shell tucking on blouses and linger=e.
37
5t
5O
38
Stitch
BOX
STITCHING
ELASTIC
STR ETCH
<
<
<
FAGOTING
STRETCH
PATCHING
<
<
t, ,,
TWO-POINT SHELL
STITCHING
L>
¢
Stitch Stitch Stitch
Salect_on Foot and Other Attach. Needte Length Width
I
> i
>
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
<
<
<
Zigzag
Thread
Tension
Check 3 _ 8
Chart
onp.14
Check 3 _ 6
Chart
on p, t4
Check 3 _ 8
Chart
onp. 14
Check 2 _ 6
Chart
on p. 14
Check 3 _ 8
Chart
on p. 14
Orange
Zone
Yeflow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
0.5~2
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
Orange
Zone
3~5
3_5
5
3_5
Use for overlapping seams_
Use for applying elastic,
Join two folded edges tot decorative
open-work appearance.
Use for patchwork quilting.
Uses Refer to Page
53
53
52
51
50
25
Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
This stitch can a_so be used as a single
Overiock stitch as welt.
Stitch Stitch Thread Stitch Stitch
Selection Needle Tension Length W_dth Uses Refer to Page
HERRING BONE Check 2 _ 6 Yellow 3 _ 5 Use as hemming stitch tot blankets, table- 52
STRETCH
TWO-POINT
BOX STITCH
L_
E
r
OVEREDGE
STITCH
DECORATIVE
GEOMETRICS
SATIN STITCH
C_
!
Foot and Other Attach,
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
Satin
Sattn
Chart
on p. 1_44
Check 3 _ 8
Chart.
on p. 14
Check 3 _ 8
Chart
onp, 1_4
Check 3 _ 8
Chart
onp.14
Stretch
Stitch
Position
Orange
Zone
Orange
Zone
Green
Zone
3~5
3~5
c{oth and draperies.
Use for overlapping seams,
Use for Overedgmg.
Decorate garments with one row or several,
one stitch or acombination.
Check
Chart
on p. 14
3~B 0.5_ 1 2_5 Use for applique work, also as decorat=ve
fimsh for piacemats, blankets, coltars,
cuffs and pockets.
54
L, J .................
54
55
32
26
Stitch Thread Stitch Stitch Uses Refer to Page
Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach. Needle Tension Length Width
Sliding 2_6Blue Zone 3_ 5 Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes. 42 _ 43
buttonhole (Blue Zone)
BUTTONHOLE
D
,Buttonhole
Check
Chart
on p, 1_44
Check
Chart
on p. I!
2~6 Raund-end buttonholes and keyhole
buttonholes.
44 ~ 47
27
= Straight Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 0
Top thread tension
controi 2to 6
H: Straight foot
Stitch length
controt orange
zone
Strelch Stltch
NOTE; Best sewing results are
obtained with the straight
stitch foot, but the z_gzag
foot will also provide
acceptable resutts.
28
Before sewing with the straight stitch
foot, always set the stitch width
control to 0 to avoid breakmg the
needle.
1, Raise the presser foot.
2. Raise the needte to its highest
posit{on.
3. Place the edge of the fabr{c next
to a stftchmg guide line on the
needle plate (5/8" ts most
common).
4. Draw the threads toward the back
and lower the presser foot.
5. Press the foot control.
6. Hold the fabric loosely and gently
guide it along the guide line, so
that it feeds naturally,
Do not force the fabric or try to
pul_ it tight.
J
7. At the beginnmg and end of
seam, you may want to reverse to
lock the stitch.
8. Raise the presser foot and remove
the fabric,
9, Cut the threads.
oUse the Seam Guides
/Cornering guide ,J
The seam guides on the needle plate
are engraved to help you measure seam
width. The lines are 1/8" apart, wtth
the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked,
= Turn a Square Corner
/!Cornering
_.__,, )
To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge:
1. Stop stitching and lower the
needle by turning hand wheel
toward you when the fabric edge
facmg you tines up with the
cornering guide, as shown,
2, Raise the presser foot and turn
the fabric to fine the edge with
the 5/8" seam guide.
3, Lower the presser foot and begin
stitching in the new d_rectlon.
= UsetheDarningPlate
f
Darning prate
\
Sometimes when you sew, you want to control the fabric yourself.
The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric.
To Put on the Darning Plate:
NOTE: The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the holes m the
needle prate, in the darning ptate, these holes are slightly to the
right of center,
1. Pos}tion the darning plate with the pins on the bottom.
2, Fit the darning plate pins into the needle piate holes at the
5/8" mark. The feed dogs will show through the darmng plate
holes.
Use the darning plate in the following ways:
Darning lsee page 30},
Button Sewing (see page 35)
= Topstitching
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 0
Top thread tension Stitch length
control 2 to 6 control orange
zone
Stretch Stitch
H: Strmght foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
Topstitchmg emphasizes the lines of
your garment and keeps seams and
edges flat and crisp.
Accent suits or blouses with one or
two rows ot topstitching around the
outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars.
Here's How
1.
2.
3,
Lower the presser foot.
Keep the edge of the fabric next
to the right edge ot the presser
foot.
Evenly guide the fabric along this
edge to produce an even row of
topstttching 5/8" from the edge.
29
3O
Top thread
tenskon
control
2 to6
No preSSer
foot
Darmng plate
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 0
1234
@
Stitcl_ iength
control any number
(not necessary to
adiust)
Stretch Stitch
Here's How
1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate
(see page 29).
2, Remove presser toot and toot holder
(see page 10), stretch fabric between
embroidery hoops with hole centered.
3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the
fabric by holding the top thread and taking
one stitch at the spot where you w_sh to
start darmng.
4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow
speed.
5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly unti_
you have covered the darning area.
6. Turn the fabric half turn and sew antother
tayer ot stltchLng over the first iayer,
NOTE; If your tabnc _s thin or badly damaged,
use a separate p_ece of fabric under the
hole to reinforce it.
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning
plate and replace foot holder and foot.
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 0
Top thread tension
control 2 to G
H: Strai_Jht toot
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
position
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
This stitch =S the stretch variation of
the straight stitch, especially develop-
ed for knits and stretch fabrics.
This stitch can aiso be used for
topstitch=rig on all fabrics.
Stretch stitching was developed
to be used on stretch fabrics and
knits, tt can be used on other
fabrics as well. tt works well on
curved seams and on any
garments that will receive a great
deal of strain (ie. children's
clothes).
The stretch, stitch does not
actuatiy stretch as it Isbeing
sewn, but is stitched in a
forward and back motion
(sometimes called a "reverse-
action" stitch}, so that it will
give when the fabric stretches
instead of breaking.
Basic Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control I to 5
i 234
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch length
control orange
Zor]e
Stretch Stitch
The StItch and its Uses
The ztgzag stitch is one of the most
common and most versatile stitches on
your machine. It can be a utility stitch
for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem-
ming, overcasting, mending and darn-
ing. It can also be used to decorate
with trims, appliques and cut-out work
or as a decorative stitch.
Here's How
There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch.
Consult the specific variations for detailed directions.
Satin Stitch page 32,
Applique Work page 33,
Bar Tacking page 33,
Monogramming page 3_44,
Embroidery page 3_4,
Button Sewing page 35,
Overcasting page 36.
3_
=Satin Stitch
Top thread
tension
control 3 to 8
Set the Machine
Stitch w=dth
control 2 to 5
_ 2 34
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
2
Stretch Stitch
F._ Satin stitch
foot
Pressuredial: t or
The Stitch and Its Uses
The Satin stitch is a versatile and often
used decorative stitch, but it can also
be used to overcast araw edge (for ex-
ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths
and napkins).
The Satin stitch is espematly attractive
in applique.
Stitch
length
Zigzag w_d_h :
CIose to 0
!>
>
>-
>
>
>
>
Here's How
Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragment
ot the fabrlc you are planning to use, Too tight satin stitch may pucker some light
welght fabrics.
32
Applique
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 2 to 5
.s Z34
@
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6 Stitch length
control 0,5 to 1
Stretch Stitch
F : Satin stitch /_'_-_'_,
toot _
Pressure dial: 2
........ J
........................ J
Baste lor ruse with iron-on fabric
joiner) apptique pieces on the fabric.
Stitch around the applique making
sure the needle fails along the outer
edge of the applique,
When sewing corners, lower the needle
down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and pivot the fabric to the right
or left,
oBar Tacking
rset the Machine
Stitch w=dth
control 2 to 5
_234
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch tength
controt 0.5 to
Stretch Stitch
t:: :7,::::i::::,:*! ::i::-:: ::: .: :*::
i:Z'i
This stitch is similar to a very short
satin stitch and is used to reinforce
points 'of strain such as corners or
pockets and straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 z_gzag stitches.
33
=Monogramming
Set the Machino
Stitch wLdth
control 5
i234
@
Top thread tension
control 2 to G
F' Satin stitch
foot
Stitch length
control 0.5 to ]
2
Stretch Stitch
34
Here's How
1. Set the same as satin stitch.
2. Back the fabric with paper or
interfacing.
3. Draw the letters on the fabric
with tailor's chalk.
4. Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch
width as necessary to form each
pattern,
5. If using paper, carefully remove it
when you have finished sewing.
Embroidery
Set the Machine
Stitch w=dth
control 1 to 5
_ 2 34
Top thread tension Stitch length control
control 2 to 6 Any number (not
necessary to adiust)
No pre_er
foot Stretch Stitch
Darn m9 plate
Here's How
1. Put the darning plate on the needle
plate (see page 29),
2, Remove foot holder (see page 10),
3. Adiust the stitch width as desired
(see page 21 ),
4. Draw the design on to the fabric
with tailor's chalk.
5. Stretch the. fabric between embrol-
dery hoops and place under the
needle.
6, Lower the presser foot lever to
engage the top thread tension.
7, Holding the top thread in your left
hand, rotate the hand wheel toward
you one complete turn.
Pull the top thread to draw the
bobbin thread through to the surface
of the fabric.
8. Using a medium speed, stitch along
the marked outline, guiding the
fabric carefully by hand.
SewaButton
Set the Machine
Stitch width control
Top thread tension
control 2 tO 6
A_
Stitch length control
Any number {not
necessary to adjust)
Stretch Stitch
Use the darning plate for button sewing (see page 2__9).
i!iiiii iiii!i
1, Match the center of the but-ton holes to the center of the slot on the presser
foot,
2, Ad.iust the stitch width so that needle will drop in each hole,
3, Lower the foot to hold the button in place,
Turn the hand wheei by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the
button.
4, Stitch several t_mes,
To strengthen the shank, cut the
threads leaving a 8" tail. Bring the
needle thread down through the hole
in the button and w_nd it around the
shank.
Drew the thread to the bottom side
and knot.
35
=Overcasting Stitch
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
contro! 3to 8
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
I 2 3,_
Stitch length
control orange
zone
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
This zigzag variation is very usefut in
garment construction and m fimshing
raw edges of any sewing proiect.
.....
Hints
Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the
raw corner of your seam. If you start
right at the edge, the fabric will bunch
up and the stitches wilt become
o Rick-Rack Stretch
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 2 to G
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch width
control 2 to 5
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
poslt_on
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that
you might use a zigzag stitch.
Th_s stitch can be used as a decorative
top stItch as welt,
36
e Three-Step Zigzag
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
icontrol 2 tO O
A: Zigzag toot
Stitch w=dth
control 5
'i _34
@
Stitch length
control 0.5 to I
2
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
The three-step zigzag is a combination
zigzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere you
would use the basic zigzag stitch. It
has more strength, elastimty, and is
flatter than a regular zigzag.
The three-step z_gzag stttch _sespecial-
ly useful for:
- mending
- sewing patches smoothly and
securely.
-- repatring strmght tears.
-- finishing seams.
Seam Fimshmg (Overcasting)
Place the fabric under the presser foot
so that the edge will be slightly reside
the right hand side of the presser foot.
Guide the work so the right hand
stitches fall at the edge of the fabnc.
Mending
Position the tear under the needle so
that the stitching will catch both sides.
37
Overcast Stretch Stitching
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
A: Zigzag toot
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
Stitch tength
controt yellow
stretch st=tch
position
2
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and its Uses
Thts stitch can be used for sewing a
seam wlth an overcast finish.
The seam is formed and finished m
one operation. It can be used when
you are making swlmwear, ski pants
and other garments that require
stretch.
Here's How
Place the raw edge of the fabric to
the LEFT of the needle as shown.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
just short ot the outside edge.
Or, place your fabnc to atlow a 5/8"
seam, then trLm seam allowance
after.
Raw or worn edges of older garments
can be overcast to prevent further
raveling.
NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric
needle, which effectively
prevents skipped stitches.
o Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching
fSet the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
Top thread tension
control 3 to 6
A: Zigzag toot
Stitch length
control yetlow
stretch stitch
position
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use this stitch when you want a
narrow seam that you do not need to
press open flat. tt _s ideal tot 1/4"
seams on knits or on medium to
heavyweight woven fabrics where you
want a narrow seam. |t is also great
for making elastic swim wear.
Here's How
Place the fabric under the presser
foot so that the strtches are made
over the edge.
NOTE: When using stretch kmt
fabric, use a blue stretch
fabric needle which
effectively prevents
sMpped stitches.
38
Set the Machine
Stitch w_dth
control 2to 3
I
Top thread tension
control 9 to 6
A: Zigzag toot
%
Stitch length
control orange
Zone 2
t,1 _S
Stretch Stitch
Ligl_t
Weight
Fabric
Heavy
Weight
Fabric
I14"
114"
1. Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desire. (See overcrasting page 36).
2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin.
NOTE. For light weight fabrics, you may need a double fold.
3. Fold the material (bottom side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving 1/4" of the finished hem edge
showing.
4. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches wit! be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag
stitch should just catch the fold of the garment.
5. After hemming, press both sides of the finished hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches.
39
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 2 to 3
Top thread tension
control 2to 6
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch length
control 1
Stretch Stitch
i_ i!ii_ili_i_!!i_i_i_i__ii!i_i''_'_'_,__
Lace adds a fanciful, feminine touch
to blouses and lingerie. Table linens
and pit]ows become more elegant
when trimmed with lace.
Turn raw edge of fabrlc under at least
5/8"_ Place lace underneath and top-
stitch using stretch blind hem stitch.
Trim excess fabric close to stitching,
40
=Learning to Sew Buttonho|es
With your Kenmore sewing machine you have two methods of makmg
buttonholes. You may use the built-in system or you may use the
snap-in automatic buttonhole attachment system.
Choose the buttonhole style
1. Buitt-in bottonholes irectangular),
Choose this style for waistband, cuffs, belt slots or where you will
need only one or two buttons.
2. Round end buttonholes (Template No. 213504005, 213505006}.
Choose this style for series of buttonholes on dresses, btouses,
vests, jackets or coats.
Tips on buttonholing
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you ptan to
use. Try the buttonhole with the button you will use.
Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are
placed.
Tissue paper or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after
st}tching, Jf it is used..
For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top thread tension slightly.
3_ Keyhole buttonholes _Template No, 213506007),
Choose th}s style for tailored vests, jackets, coats or any time you
need more room for button shank.
41
oBuilt-in System
Set the Machine
Stitch width
I
!311 i
B11
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
control 3to 5
(Blue zone)
Stitch length
control
B_ue zone
Stretch Stitch
Sliding buttonhole foot
Adjusting the Stitch Density
Depending upon your {abnc or your
own preference m buttonholes, you
may alter the buttonhole stitch
density within the blue buttonhole
range on the stitch Iength dial
t. For less density, turn the dial
toward "t"
2. For more denstty, turn the dial
toward "0 '°
NOTE. Always make a practice but-
tonhole on a scrap fabric you
plan to use to find the more
suitable stitch length.
42
t. a. Carefully mark the buttonhole
length on your garment.
b. Change to the sliding buttonhole
foot.
c, Insert the garment under the
foot with the _buttonhole mark-
ing runmng toward you.
2, a. Move the slider (A) toward you
so that the top mark (C) on the
slider meets the start mark (B).
b, Line up the markings on the
foot with the top mark on your
garment.
c. Lower the presser toot.
NOTE: The markings on the slider
are engraved m centimeters.
Q
Coarse
stitches
for heavy
iabrics
@
Fine
s_atcI_es
tor light
{abr _cs
ii
Stretch Stttch
i! iG'i !i!iiiii i!i!i!i!i ii!:i ii !i I;II¸il
3. a. Set the stitch selector at l'l
b. Sew forward until you reach the
front marking of your button-
hole.
c, Stop sewing at the left stitch.
•• : ••H••i::i:•:!••!]_::_':•:•_ii:i:i¸¸¸I•
4. a. Set the stitch selector at
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.
D
c. Stop sewing at the r_ght stitch.
[t
5. a, Set the stitch selector at
b. Sew until you reach the back of
the buttonhole.
c. Stop sewing at the right stitch.
r_
6. Set the stitch selector at U
a,
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches,
c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
7. Remove the fabric and cut the
hole open with the buttonhole
opener m your accessory storage
box.
NOTE;
When sewing at the edge of fabric, set
sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated
and sewm reverse( _--> _"_->_]-,-r_ ).
Lj -t.__t Lj _4 ilii!iii!!ii
:!i!_!_;ii
43
oUsing Buttonhole Attachment
Buttonhob Attachment System
For more varied and accurate buttonholes, you will enjoy using the button-
hole attachment and templates. Know the parts read carefully how to set up
your machine properly. You wilt need these items for the buttonhole
attachment system,
Guide slot
Catch
Buttonhole guide plate
Guide bJock
Lever
Pins
Hook _ "-Gear
Base plate
Buttonhole templates
Buttonhole foot
Template
Sizes
NOTE:
Buttonhole Style and Size
Round End
Bu ttonhote Keyhole
Buttonhole
213504005 213505006 213506007
318" 112" 15/16" 1-1116" 718" 1-11t6 '°
5/8" 13/16" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" !-1/4" I-3/8"
IllustratIons of buttonhole on template show actual length of
buttonhole to be sewn. You witt find the most suitable buttonhole
length easily by matching the button with the proper illustration
on the template.
44
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 2
i 2 34
Top thread tension
contro412 to 6
Stitch length
contro] _4
Stretch Stitch
Buttonhole toot
Helpful Hints
You can obtain best results to use
#60 _ #80 light weight threads as
bobbin thread.
NOTE: It is advisable to use a blue
stretch fabric needle when
sewing knits and synthetic
fabrics.
You can obtain buttonholes
with a wider cutting space by
settmg the stitch width
control at 1,5 instead of 2.
1.
Top
E
thread
Rectangular hole
Level
\ Base plate
Hook
a. Remove the extens!on table,
b, Raise the needle to its highest position.
c. Remove the foot holder.
d. PuB bobbin thread out about 3" straight back toward rear of machine.
e. Insert hook of base plate into rectangular hole of needle plate,
f, Pull Lever back to align the hook with the rectangular hole.
g. Snap base plate down to fit two pins (A) at the back of base plate into
two round holes (B) on needle plate.
Release lever,
45
2_ a_
b,
c.
e gu _deplate
Gu_d__ Tempfa_e
__Catch
"4ii_i_l Setting Mark
block _!:!fl;:i!_;i_i Gear
Guide
When you have selected the template with the size and style button-
hole you need, slide the template into the guide plate.
Pull catch toward you while sliding the template until the button-
hole size you have chosen is at the setting mark,
insert gear of base plate into slot of template and fit guide block
into the center of the guide slot.
3. a.
b.
obbin
thread
C_
d.
nhote toot
Gear,x _t..f Slot
"_" "" _ point
Attach the buttonhole toot.
Adjust position of gear so it is aligned with the starting point of
template.
The lever can be used to change gear position.
Pull the bobbin thread up through guide slot by turning the hand wheel
toward you while holding top thread.
Place the bobbin and top threads to the left side of gu=de plate.
Leave 3 to 4 inches of thread.
46
C°
d.
e.
NOTE:
Marked
buttonhole
Center
marking-
Fabric
Measurement
mai_kings
Mark your buttonhole position carefully on the garment.
Placing your garment behind the machine, insert it between the guide
ptate and the buttonhole foot as shown.
Align marked buttonhole with center marking on buttonhole foot.
Line up your fabric edge with the measurement markings on the guide
plate just in front of the buttonhole foot as shown,
Pierce the fabric with the needle at the beginning of the bu_onhole,
If you want your buttonhole to be 1/2 inch from the garment edge,
line up the fabric w_th the 1/2 inch markings each time you start to sew
a buttonhole.
5. a. Lower the buttonhole foot.
b. Start sewing slowly.
c. Allow the machine to do the work by itself.
(Do not try to guide the fabric.)
d, Stop sewing when the needle returns to the position where it begins.
To release the buttonhole base plate, pull the lever toward you and lift the
base plate off the machine.
Adjusting the stitch density
You may alter the closeness of the stitches by turning the stitch length
control from 4 to 3.
f
(_ Fine stitches for light
tabrtcs
Stitch length
control 4
Stretch Stitch
(_ Coarse stttches
for heavy fabrics
47
Fabric Preparation:
Put the top sides of the fabric together
and sew to the end of the zipper
opening. Use the reverse to lock the
stitches.
Sew the zipper opening with stitch
length at "4" and top thread tension
at "3"-
o_ opening
Top s_de
ot tabrlc
Top edge ot tabr_c
e pin on the_
ricjht hand snde
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
E: Zipper
foot
Stitch width
control 0
Stitch length
contrOt 2
Stretch Stitch
To attach the zipper foot:
o To sew on the left side of the zipper,
attach the presser bar to the right pros
on the zipper foot,
o To sew on the right stde of the zipper,
attach the presser bar to the left pins
on the zipper foot.
Itt8")
To Sew:
1,
2_
3.
/Zipper leech
Zipper tape
Reset stitch length at 2 and top
thread tension at 2 to 6.
Fold back the left seam atiowance
as shown.
Turn under the right seam allow-
ance to form a 1/8" fold.
Place the zipper teeth next to the
1/8" fold and pin in piece,
4, Attach the presser bar to the right
pins on the zipper foot.
5. Lower the zipper foot on the top
side at the bottom of the zipper
so that the needle pierces the fold
and the zipper tape.
6. Sew through the fold and the
zipper tape to the point where the
slider begins,
7. Lower the needle to hold the
fabric and raise the presser foot,
48
8, Open the ztpper.
9. Lower the presser foot and stitch
*he rest of the seam.
10. Close the zoper and turn
fabric top side up.
.....J
the 1!. Remove the zipper foot and
attach the presser bar to the left
pros on the zipper foot.
12. Stitch across and below the bot-
tom of the zipper.
13. Turn the corner and continue to
guide the foot along the zipper
teeth, as shown.
Stitch through the fabric and
zipper tape.
14. Stop about 2" from the top of the
zipper.
15. Lower the needle into the fabric
and raise the presser foot.
16. Remove the basting stitches and
open the z_pper,
t7, Lower the foot and stItch the rest
of the seam. Make sure the_old is
even.
49
Top thread tension
control 4 to 9
Set the Machine
F_Satin stitch
foot
Stitch width
control 3to 5
Stitch length
control orange
zoRe
2
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and tts Uses
The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a
blind hem over folded fabric. Several
rows of shell stitching are called shell
tucks.
Shell stitching can be used to finish
hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Shell _ckmg can be used to create
scalloped, tucks on blouses and
lingerie.
....ii ii iiii i ¸ i .....
Here's How
1. For best effect:
set the stitch length as you
desire.
- you may need to tighten the
top thread tension slightly.
- allow the needle to just
clear the folded edge of the
fabric when it ztgzags.
2. If you sew rows of shell stitches,
space the rows 5/8" apart,
You can sew Shell St=tch on knits or
soft sifky wovens m any direction,
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3to 5
Top thread tension
control 3to 8
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch length
control Orange
zone 2
Stretch Stitch
i;{ :::=/,},::i :]- :,_i'} _ ::{:_ =,;,
This stitch can also be used
single overlock stitch as well.
as a
5O
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6Stitch length
control yellow
stretch st_[ch
postt_on
A: Zigzag toot
Stretch Stitch
With the stitch length at "4", sew
straght stitching lines 3/8" apart
across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull
the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly, Secure the threads at
the other end. Sew the decorative
stitch between the gathenng stitches,
Pull out the gathering stitches,
NOTE: Loosen the top thread
tension to make gathering
easier.
Set the Machine |
Stitch w_dth
Top thread tension Stitch length control
control 2 to 6 yellow stretch stttch
posmon
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
For patching worn out elbows or
knees,
51
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tenston
control 3 to 8 Stitch length
control 0.5 to 2
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use this stitch to iota two pieces of
fabric to create an open work
appearance and add deslgn interest.
ii:iiii:iiii iiii iii iiiii ii "i ii i!iiii iiliiii i !!:iiii!ii !!¸iii
Here's How
1. Fold under each fabric edge 5/8"
and press.
2. Pin the two edges to paper or
tear-away backing 1/8" apart.
3. Sew slowly, guiding the fabric
so the needle catches the folded
edge on each side,
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
4234
Top thread tens=on
controt 2to 6Stitch length
control yeltow
stretch stitch
pos_t_on
A: Zigzag loot
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use as hemming stitch for blankets,
tablecloth and draperies.
Here's How
Place the fabric top slde up, and sew
3/8" from the edge.
Trim close to stitching. The stitch will
prevent raveling.
52
::::::_: =7?L>-i_i:_' i:::/" :; : ! __! ;7::=:¸¸::¸:¸;!¸:__:¸¸:¸::- ::_':=: =i'{+_ :
Elastic Stretch Stitch ::_
Set the Machine
Stitch w=dth
control 3 to 5
Top thread tension
control 3to 6 Stitch length
contro_ yellow
stretch sUtch
posltlor_
A: Zigzag toot
Stretch Stitch
Choose this stitch to attach elastic to
garments,
1, Mark the elastlc into quarters and
match these to the center front,
center back and side seams.
2. Place the middle of the elastic
under the center of the presser
foot and stitch into piace0 making
sure the elastic +s evenly distri-
bu ted.
Set the Machine
Stitch w=dth
control 3 to 5
Top thread tens=on
control 3 to 8Stitch length
control orange
zone
A: Zigzag foot
\,
Stretch Stitch
Use this stitch to join heavy weight
interlining.
Overlap two raw edges together and
use this stitch to ioin them.
53
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
1234
Top thread tenston
control 3to 8Stitch length
control orange
zone
2
,>1_3
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
This stitch is usefut for elastic fabrics
to join them together,
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
Stitch length
control orange
zone
2
_.__3
4
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag toot
%,, ,
This stitch can be used for a over-
edging stitch.
54
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
Stitch wtdth
control 3 to 5
Stitch length
control 9teen
zorl{_
F, Satin stitch
toot Stretch Stitch
The Stitches and Their Uses
These stitches are pureiy decoratIve.
You can sew one row or several or vary the st=tch wtdth and tength for
special effects.
Experlment on a scrap ot fabnc to see what special effects are possible,
J
Here's How
1. Ad!ust the stitch width and length as
you desire.
2. Practtce the stftch on a scrap of fabric.
3. Mark the lines for decoration on the
fabric, using a washable fabric marker.
4. Lower the needle at the starting point,
5. Lower the presser foot,
6. Gently guide the fabric along the
maked line.
55
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Irregular Stitches
Breaking Needle
Bunching of Thread
Puckering
Incorrect s}ze needle.
improper threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Loose presser foot,
Unevenly wound bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate,
Pultin£ fabric_
incorrect size needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back
under presser foot before starting seam.
incorrect thread tension.
Using two different sizes or kinds of thread,
Bent or blunt needle,
Loose presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric,
Rethread machine,
Tighten upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently,
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Reset needle,
Reset presser foot,
When startmg a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are
formed.
Reset thread tension,
Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same s_ze and kind.
Insert new needle.
Reset presser foot,
Use underlay of t_ssue paper.
56
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE COR RECTION
SMpping Stitches
Breaking Upper Thread
Breaking Bobbin Thread
Fabric not Mowng
Machine Jamming Knocking Noise
incorrect size needle.
Bent or blunt needle,
incorrect setting ot needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Starting to stitch too fast.
Improper threading.
Tight upper thread tension,
incorrect size needle.
Sharp eye in needle,
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle piate,
Improper bobbin threading.
Lint in bobbin holder or hook race.
Darning plate in place.
Stitch Length set at O.
Thread knotted under fabric.
Push-putt clutch is disengaged.
Thread caught m hook race.
Lmt {n bobbin holder or hook race.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Insert new needfe.
Reset needle.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Start to stitch at a medium speed.
Rethread machine.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose correct slze needle for thread and fabric.
Insert new needle.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely,
Check bobbin threading.
Clean bobbin holder and hook race,
Remove darning plate.
Adiust Stitch Length Control.
Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
to stitch.
Push in the clutch.
Disassemble and clean hook race.
Clean bobbin holder and hook race.
57
i_Re_pla_e_tl_e_=_'igh_t:i,B_i_;:_
ti 1!I
.... J
Unplug the machine and open the
face cover.
CAUTION! The .light bulb wiil be
HOT. Protect your
fingers when you
handle it.
,
3.
Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb counter-clockwise to remove
it.
Put the new bulb in by pushing it
up and turning tt cJockwJse.
t_ C Iean:7,:the:_Bo6 bl n:HOtder:i;_:i
To insure that your machine operates at _ts best, you need to keep the
essential parts clean at all times.
The bobbin area can attract dust and lint, Your machine can become sluggish
or knock _oudiy if athread is caught.
Bobbin
cover plate
Follow these directmns:
1. Turn off the power or unplug the
machine.
2. Remove the bobbin cover plate by
firmly pulling it toward you.
3. Remove the bobbin.
4_ Brush or vacuum the dust and lint
out of the bobbin holder.
5. Replace the bobbin,
6. Slide on the bobbin cover plate by
pushing it into the grooves.
58
1.
2.
3_
4.
Unplug the machine and remove
the presser foot and needle.
Remove the bobbin cover plate.
Remove the screw on the left side
of the needle with the large screw
driver.
Remove the needle plate.
6.
J
Use the lint brush to clean the
feed dogs, hook race and bobbm
holder. Also use a soft, dry
cloth,
¢
5. Take out the bobbin. Lift up the
bobbin holder and remove _t.
Red marks
J
7. Line up the red marks and place
the bobbin holder so the knob fits
next to the stopper m the hook
race, as shown above.
Open face cover plate and oil points as shown below at least once a year. Oneor
two drops of oil is sufficient.
Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabrics.
In case machine is not used for an
extended time, oil it before sewing.
Use good quality sewing machine oil.
No other oiling is required
Above points are only area which
require oiling on this machine.
59
PARTS LIST
f
14
21
910
16
22 23
17
24
12
/
25
19
26
14
20
6O
All parts listed herein may be ordered trom any Sears Roebuck and Co. store or
service center.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
INFORMATION:
1. PART NUMBER
2. PART DESCRIPTION
3. MODEL NUMBER
4. NAME OF ITEM
tf the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order witl be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center tor expedited handling.
ReL No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
tl
12
t3
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
2t
22
23
24
25
26
Part No. i Description
"!02869107
102403202
813404013
647814020
647814031
647814042
647814053
652806014
685502019
825813005
823803006
822804118
"784805004
000009906
820832005
647803004
802424004
647808009
"I3!402005
652802009
213502003
213501002
213504OO5
213505006
213506007
213503004
*200002008
*200003009
*200005001
*200013105
*214872000
*941620000
10 bobbins
Spool pin felt
No. 1t Stretch tabric needles (BLU)
No. 1t Single needles (ORG)
No. 14 Single needles (RED)
No. I6 Single needles (PUR)
No. 18 Single needles (GRN)
Straight toot
Zigzag toot
Sliding buttonhole foot
Zipper toot
Satin stitch foot
Needle threader
Light bulb
Large screw dnver
Small screw driver
Lint brush
Buttonhole opener
Oil
Darning plate
Buttonhole guide plate
Base plate
Template (Round end small)
Template (Round end large)
Template (Keyhole)
Buttonhole loot
Piping toot
Gathering toot
Pin-tucking foot
Hemmer toot
Walking loot
Ruffler
* Theseitems are notturnished withthe machine, butmay beordered per
instructions above.
61
A
Accessorystoragebox.............. 2,8
Appliqueing..................... 23,33
B
Bar tacking ................... 23, 33
Base ........................... 2
Baseplate .............. 4, 48, 60"_61
Basic zigzag ................... 23, 31
Blind hemming ............. 23, 39_40
Bobbin ........... 4, t5_16, 58, 60_61
Bobbin holder .......... 16, 58_59
Bobbin thread .................. 18_19
Bobbin winding .................. 15
Bobbin winding spindle ........... 2, 15
Box stitching .................. 25, 53
Buttonhole ................... 27, 41
Buttonhole attachment ........ 27, 41, 44
Buttonhole foot ......... 4, t3, 27, 44_45
Buttonhole gutde plate .... 4, 27, 44, 60r_61
Buttonhole making .............. 41_47
Buttonhole opener ......... 4, 43, 60_61
Buttonhole template ...... 4, 27, 44, 60_61
Button sewing ................. 23, 35
C
Cabinet ....................... 2
Changing needle .................. 14
Changing presser foot ............ 10_11
Cleaning hook race and feed dogs ...... 59
Cornering guide .................. 28
D
Darning .................. 23, 29, 31
Darning plate ..... 4, 29, 31, 34_"35, 60"_61
Decorative geometric patterns ....... 26, 55
E
Elastic stretch ................. 25, 53
Embroidery ................... 23, 34
Extension table .................. 2, 8
INDEX
F
Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length
chart .................... 14
Face cover plate .......... 2, 6, 58_59
Fagoting ..................... 25, 52
Feed dogs ................... 59
Foot control ................... 3, 5
Free arm sewing ................ 8_9
H
Hand wheel .................. 3, 18
Herring bone stretch ............. 26, 52
Hook race ...................... 59
L
Lace work .................... 40
Large screw driver ............ 4, 60_61
Light and power switch ............. 3, .5
Light bulb ................. 57, 60_6t
Lint brush ................... 4, 58_61
M
Monogramming ................ 23, 34
N
Needle ................ 13_14, 60_61
Needle clamp .................. 3, 14
Needle plate ................... 2, 16
Needle, thread and fabric chart ........ 14
Needle threading ............... 17"18
O
Oiling ......................... 59
Overcasting stitch ................. 36
Overcast stretch ................ 24, 38
Overedging stitch ............... 26, 54
P
Parts list ..................... 60_6t
Performance problems ............ 56_57
Plug connector ................... 3, 5
Portable case .................... 2
Power switch ................... 3, 5
Practicaf stitch chart ............ 23_27
Pressure control diai ............... 6
Presser foot ................. 3, t0_! 3
Presser foot lever ................. 3, 7
Push-pull clvtch ................ 3, 15
R
Reverse stitch control .......... 2, 22, 28
Rick-rack stretch stitching ........ 23, 36
S
Satin stitch foot ....................
....... 4, 12, 24, 26, 32_34, 50, 55, 60_6t
Sating stitching ............. 26, 32
Seam guides ..................... 28
Serging ...................... 24, 38
Serging or pine leaf stretch ......... 24, 38
Sewing light ...................... 5
Shell stitching ............... 24, 50
Sliding buttonhole foot ...............
.............. 4, 12, 27, 42_43, 60_61
Small screw driver ............ 4, 60_61
Smocking .................... 24, 51
Snap-on button .............. 3, 10
Spoo_ pin felt .............. 4, 7, 60_61
Spool pins .................. 2, 7
Stitch length control .......... . . 2, 21
Stitch selector .................. 3, 20
Stitch width control .............. 2, 21
Straight stitching ............ 23, 28"29
Straight stitch foot ...................
............. 4,11, 23, 28""30, 60_61
Straight stretch stitching .......... 23, 30
Stretch patching ................ 25, 51
Stretch stitch adjuster ........... 3, 21
T
Take-up lever ................... 2, 17
Thread guide ................ 2_3, 17
Three-step zigzag ............... 24, 37
Topstitching ................ 23, 29
62
Top thread .................. 17_20
Top thread tension ............ 19_20
Top thread tension control ..... 2, t9_20
Turning a square corner .......... 28
Two-point box stitching ........... 26, 54
Two-point shell stitching ........ 25, 50
Z
Zigzag foot ....................
..... 11, 23_26, 31, 35_40, 50_53, 60_6t
Zigzag stitching ........... 23, 31_36
Zigzag overcasting ................ 36
Zipper application ........... 23, 48_49
Zipper foot ...... 4, 12, 23, 48_49, 60_61
63
#
#
WARRANTY .----
FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD _=
For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects _n material or workmanship which appear #
•_ m the mechanical components of the sewing machine head, ()
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE #
For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which
#
appear _n the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including electronic components, motor, w_rmg, switch and (1
speed control. _
#
#FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service 0
necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
#
WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES. {)
Th_s warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., D1817 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179
SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts
or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Serv,ce Canter. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when
you call or visit,
The model number of your Sewing Machine witl be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO,, Chicago, tL60684 UoS.A.
S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part No, 652800443 @

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