Securitron TSB 3 SERIES 500 16400_C Installation And Operation Instructions IO 16400 20C

User Manual: Securitron TSB-3 Installation and Operation Instructions Installation Instructions

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Securitron Magnalock Corp. Tel 775.355.5625

550 Vista Boulevard Fax 775.355.5633

Sparks, NV 89434 info@securitron.com

www.securitron.com

© Copyright, 2010, all rights reserved PN# 500-16400

Page 1 Rev. C, 08/10

ASSA ABLOY, the global leader

in door opening solutions

SECURITRON SERIES TSB-3 TOUCH SENSE BAR

INSTALLATION AND OPERATION INSTRUCTIONS

1. DESCRIPTION

Securitron's Model TSB-3 is an exit device for doors secured by magnetic locks. The assembly consists of

an aluminum bar available in lengths to fit on standard U.S. door openings: (36", 42", and 48"),

PolyCarbonate end pieces to mount the bar on the door, and an electronic touch sensor mounted within

the bar. Fasteners for metal doors are included. For through door mounting please call factory for a no-

charge TSB-TDM kit. Note that US type or metric fasteners are supplied depending of the version of

the bar which has been ordered. The metric version part numbers include the suffix: “M”. When the bar

is touched, a relay in the sensor is tripped, releasing the lock. The bar's sensitivity is adjustable. In the

unlikely event of sensor failure, a push switch is mounted on the back side of the bar. Depressing the

switch has the same effect as activating the sensor by touch and therefore represents built in safety

redundancy. The TSB cannot be used outside in rain conditions.

As the TSB-3 is normally used to allow egress on an electrically secured door, make sure that

you are complying with applicable building codes for your area. Check with your local building

department and/or fire prevention department.

2. PHYSICAL INSTALLATION

2.1 MOUNTING HOLE MARKING

The first step is to plan and mark the mounting hole positions. Be sure that you have the correct length

bar for the door and begin by removing the screws that secure the end caps on both ends of the bar. If it

appears that the bar is longer than it should be for the door, see Section 2.6 for cutting instructions.

Note which end has the sensor (circuit board) in it. This is the end that should be mounted on the

hinge side for easiest wire exit from the door.

For mounting hole drilling, we supply a template located at the end of this instruction manual, although it

is generally preferable to hold the bar in position and use it as a "self-template." The templates are

particularly valuable if door preparation is to be done in advance. In setting your mounting holes, there

are three concerns:

They must be level or the bar will be tilted.

They must be the correct distance apart.

They must be correctly placed "left/right" on the door.

Leveling is best done by use of a carpenter's level. If one is not available, measure from the mounting

hole positions on each edge of the door to the door bottom. This is not as effective as it assumes that the

door is level which is not always true. Note that in general, US building codes require the height of the

bar above the door bottom to be between 30 and 44 inches.

If the bar is used as its own template, you will automatically get correct separation between the mounting

holes. If you use the templates, note that there is a line drawn on each template which must line up with

the outer edge of the plastic end pieces on the bar. After you've mounted the templates, hold up the bar

to make sure the end piece lines up to get the correct distance.

Left/right placement on the door is an important point. In most installations, the bar should be centered

on the door. This produces the most attractive result. However, if the door has a vertical door stop on

the edge that swings open, you may need to shift the bar somewhat towards the hinge side to avoid

scraping the stop when the door opens. You should always experimentally position the bar on the

door and open the door to see that there is no interference. Finally, if the installation is on an

aluminum frame glass door, make sure you don't position the bar so that the mounting screws go into the

glass. On standard doors, keeping the mounting holes at least 3/4" (19 mm) from the inner edge of the

aluminum will be safe.

2.2 MOUNTING HOLE DRILLING

There are three different procedures depending on the door type. Hollow metal doors employ supplied

machine screws and "blind nut" fasteners. This method leaves the outside of the door unaffected. Longer

machine screws and sex bolts may be used on hollow or solid wood doors, solid metal doors, or chalk filled

fire doors, the TSB-TDM kit for this type of mounting can be ordered from the factory at no-charge. With

this method, the sex bolt heads do show from the outside of the door. Note that the Touch Sense Bar

may not be used on a fire rated door that requires a fire rated latch (the TSB-3 has no latch), but

sometimes fire doors are used on openings where a fire rated barrier is not required, because the

customer has selected this door type for other reasons (such as solidity). The third method is to use wood

PN# 500-16400

Page 2 Rev. C, 08/10

screws (not supplied) on a solid wood door. By "solid wood", we mean hardwood interior rather than

pressed wood as the wood needs enough structural integrity to hold wood screws. This method is strong

and simple and has the advantage of not showing sex bolts heads from the outside of the door.

For a hollow metal door, drill four 3/8" (9.5 mm) diameter holes only deep enough to get through the

inner side of the door- not completely through the door.

For through bolt mounting on various door types, drill four 1/4" (6 mm) holes completely through the

door. For this type of installation (which may also be elected for a solid wood door) you will be using

screws and finishing sex bolts suitable for a 1 3/4" (44 mm) thick door supplied in the TSB-TDM kit.

Nearly all North American commercial doors are this thickness. If the doors you are working on are

different, you will have to purchase different length screws or apply some spacing techniques (described

later).

For a solid wood door, you may elect to mount the bar with wood screws (not furnished). We

recommend 2 3/4" (70 mm) #14 wood screws with a hex, pan, oval or round head. Drill four 3/16" (5

mm) diameter holes to a depth of 1 1/4" (30 mm).

2.3 WIREWAY HOLE DRILLING

The TSB-3 connects to its power source and to the devices it controls via a six-conductor cable with push-

on connector (supplied). There are several different methods of getting this cable from the TSB-3 to

external connection points. The first issue is whether the cable needs to enter the door (in which

case a wireway hole must be drilled in the door), or not. For most installations, it is preferred that the

cable enter the door. Exit from the door may be via the supplied door cord which may be mounted at the

top of the door where it is out of the way, or via any of many commercially available transfer hinges or

pivots (such as Securitron’s model EPT Electric Power Transfer or ELH Electric Hinge) which serve to route

the wiring off the door in a concealed manner. A wireway hole is then drilled into the door in the position

shown on the template. It should be 3/8" (9.5 mm) in diameter. The cable is then pulled into the door.

An alternate technique exists which does not route the cable into the door but which takes it directly

from the end piece to the frame via the door cord. This technique is preferred when the door type is

difficult to pull a wire through (such as any solid door). It is also a good technique when the frame is not

hollow as the door cord can route the cable directly from the end piece to a surface box mounted opposite

the end piece.

For the best security and appearance, you will not use the plastic door cord terminator when you route the

cord into the end piece. You will drill a hole in the plastic end piece. The hole should be drilled through

the bottom flat of the end piece on the hinge side. The ideal hole size is 23/64" (9.1 mm) but as this drill

size is unusual, 3/8" (9.5 mm) also works. On the next page, a drawing appears to the right which shows

you hole location in the end piece. Note that this drawing shows the end piece you would select if the

hinge side of the door was on the left. If it's on the right, use the other end piece but still locate the hole

at the inner, rear corner. With this method, the door cord is used to route the cable directly from the end

piece to the frame.

2.4 WIRE ROUTING

If you elect the method of wire routing which uses a hole in the end piece (see drawing above), you must

route your cable through the end piece prior to mounting the end piece to the door. This is

because the flat cable connector will not pass through the hole you have drilled in the end piece. Begin by

threading the cable end without the connector down through the elongated slot in the end piece (the

slot is directly under the circuit board). From there, route it through the drilled hole in

the end piece. Begin by threading the cable end without the

connector down through the elongated slot in the end piece (the slot

is directly under the circuit board). From there, route it through the

drilled hole in the end piece so that it exits the end piece. Next pass

the stainless door cord over the cable and slide it until you can push it

into the hole you have drilled in the end piece. Secure the stainless

cord inside the end piece with the supplied "E" clamp. See Figure 1.

It shows this assembly for the end piece you would use for a door with

hinges to the left. If the hinges are on the right, use the opposite end

piece. The drawing will be "reversed" but the concept is unchanged.

Note that if you are mounting to a surface box, a second "E" clamp has

been supplied so that you can simply drill a hole in the box and secure

the stainless cord from the inside with the second "E" clamp. If the

frame is hollow, you would employ the plastic door cord terminator

when you mount the other end of the door cord to the frame. You are

now ready to mount the bar to the door.

BOTTON VIEW OF

HINGE SIDE END

PIECE. DRILL 23/6

OR 3/8" HOLE AS

SHOWN, ABOUT

3/16" IN FROM

EACH EDGE.

PN# 500-16400

Page 3 Rev. C, 08/10

FIG. 1: REAR VIEW OF END PIECE SHOWING CABLE ROUTING THROUGH END PIECE

"E" CLAMP STAINLESS DOOR CORD INSERTS

INTO HOLE DRILLED IN BOTTOM

OF END PIECE. SECURES WITH

"E" CLAMP

"E" CLAMP INSTALLED TO

SECURE STAINLESS CORD

6 CONDUCTOR

JACKETED CABLE

CABLE CONNECTOR

WHICH ATTACHES

TO CIRCUIT BOARD

ELONGATED SLOT RECOMMENDED TOOLS

MEDIUM, SMALL PHILLIPS DRIVERS

DRILL MOTOR

1/4", 3/8, 1/8" DRILL BITS

WIRE CUTTER/STRIPPER

VOLT/OHM METER

CRIMP CONNECTORS AND PLIERS

If you are using the preferred method of pulling the cable through the door, the cable must be inserted

into the 3/8" wireway hole you have drilled in the door. The connector will be left protruding from this

hole. The connector will pass through the elongated slot in the end piece, so the cable should be pulled

first and then the bar may be mounted. If you are using the door cord rather than a transfer hinge or

pivot to bring the cable from the door into the frame, remember that you must pass the cable through the

cord before fishing it into the frame.

Note that if, for any special reason, you find it desirable to pull the cable through the bar, this must not

be done. The cable must always exit the bar at the end piece which includes the circuit board.

If it goes through the bar, it creates electronic interference with the touch sensing function which voids

the performance of the bar.

2.5 BAR MOUNTING

The holes you have drilled for bar mounting (Section 2.2) were different depending on the type of door.

Similarly the final mounting procedure depends on the door type.

In the case of a hollow metal door, identify the four supplied blind nuts. The nuts are used as follows.

Insert the nuts with the knurl engaging the edge of each hole. Then utilize the supplied collapsing tool to

collapse the nuts. Use of the tool is shown in Figure 2. Next, use the shorter (2 1/4" or 54 mm)) supplied

machine screws. Place a tooth washer under the head of each screw and mount the bar. Do not over

torque. FIG. 2: COLLAPSING THE BLIND NUTS (METAL DOOR)

DOOR

TOOL

CAP SCREW

BLIND NUT

DRILL 3/8" (9.5MM) HOLE

NUT AS SHOWN

PRESS IN BLIND COLLAPSES WHEN CAP SCREW

TURNED WITH ALLEN WRENCH

WHILE TOOL HELD FAST

WITH BOX WRENCH

WHILE TURNING WITH ALLEN

WRENCH, PRESS IN TO KEEP

NUT SEATED IN DOOR

HOLD WITH WRENCH OR

CAP SCREW

VISE GRIP WHILE TURNING

FLAT WASHER

KNURL

For through bolt + sex bolt mounting, you will be using a longer 3 1/2" (90 mm) machine screws with

the sex bolts supplied in the TSB-TDM kit. You should have already drilled 1/4" (6 mm) holes through the

door. The next step is to install the sex bolts. From the outside of the door, enlarge the holes to 3/8"

(9.5 mm) diameter, 1" (25 mm) deep. Push in the sex bolts. Then place a tooth washer under the head

of each screw and mount the bar. Note that the screw length is suitable for a 1 3/4" (44 mm) thick door.

Nearly all North American commercial doors are this thickness. If you have a door of different thickness,

a number of techniques can be applied. Screws of different lengths can be purchased or the supplied

screws may be cut (if the door is thinner). Since the sex bolts are short, however, some final adjustments

may be necessary. Spacing washers may be added under the screw heads but if you raise the heads too

high they will interfere with removal of the circuit board (if this ever becomes necessary). The board can

still be removed but the mounting screws will have to come out first and this is inconvenient. Another

PN# 500-16400

Page 4 Rev. C, 08/10

technique that is possible on solid doors is to recess the sex bolts into the door by using a 1/2" (12.5 mm)

counter bore.

In the case of a solid wood door, if you have elected to use wood screws (not furnished), place a tooth

washer under the head of each screw and mount the bar. Figure 3 provides a visual reference for these

three methods.

2.6 CUTTING THE BAR

If the bar needs to be shortened to install properly, it can be easily cut in the field. It must be cut from

the end which does not mount the sensor. Remove the end piece completely by unscrewing the two

self tapping screws that hold it to the bar. It is better to remove both end pieces so as to avoid damaging

the sensor circuit board by metal filings. Note that when you remove the second end piece which carries

the sensor, the sensor will slide out easily with the end piece. There is, however, a ring terminal which

circles one of the end piece-to-bar mounting screws. This ring terminal is connected by a wire to the

circuit board. This connection is how the sensor "sees" the bar. When you reinstall the end piece, be sure

to reinstall the ring terminal.

FIG. 3: END VIEW SHOWING USE OF DIFFERENT FASTENING METHODS

THREE MOUNTING METHODS DEPENDING ON DOOR TYPE

METAL DOOR

SOLID WOOD DOOR

WITH WOOD SCREWS

SELECTED

THROUGH BOLT

+ SEX BOLT MOUNTING

BLIND NUT

2 1/4" (57MM)

MACHINE

SCREW

2 3/4" (70MM)

WOOD SCREW

3 1/2" (90MM)

MACHINE

SCREW

SEX

BOLT

NOTE: ALWAYS PUT TOOTH

WASHER UNDER SCREW HEAD

Cutting is ideally performed by a band or cut-off saw to produce a neat result. However, with care, a

hacksaw can be used. The cut need not be perfect because the bar "pockets" into the end cap. This hides

a poor cut from viewing from the front. The rear of the bar is not pocketed, however, and if the bar is

being mounted on an aluminum frame glass door, a sloppy cut will be apparent from the outside and will

worsen the appearance of the installation.

3. ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

3.1 SENSOR WIRING

The TSB-3 has 6 colored wires which are for sensor power and DPST relay output:

Red - "+" DC Power

Black - "-" DC Power

White - Relay Common, Pole 1

Green - Relay Normally Closed, Pole 1

Blue - Relay Common, Pole 2

Orange - Relay Normally Open, Pole 2

The cable connector is plugged into the male connector on the circuit board so that the cable routes

directly back into the end piece. The relay has 2 amp contacts and when the bar is touched, the relay

changes state. For additional safety, the operation of the TSB is fail safe, itself. When the TSB

receives power, its control relay automatically energizes. It deenergizes when the unit is touched. For

releasing a magnetic lock, the following drawing (Figure 4) shows typical connections of sensor, power

supply and fail safe (released when powered) lock. Fail secure electric locks are normally not permitted

for use with the TSB on required exit applications. NO contacts, however, are available from the sensor

for special signaling applications and for integration with the Request to Exit (REX) function of an access

control installation, as will be explained. Note installation of the MOV in parallel with the electric lock. The

MOV is supplied loose with the TSB. It is a black or blue disk-like component with two bare wires for

connection. The MOV acts to suppress the lock’s inductive kickback which will greatly shorten the life of

the relay contacts if not suppressed. To work properly it should be spliced in as close to the electric lock

PN# 500-16400

Page 5 Rev. C, 08/10

as possible. It has no polarity. If, however, Securitron's Magnalock is used in the installation, the

MOV is not necessary as the Magnalock is internally suppressed.

FIG. 4: TSB WIRING FOR MAGNETIC LOCK

+

_

POWER SUPPLY

12-24 VOLTS

CABLE

RED (+ POWER)

BLACK (- POWER)

WHITE (RELAY COM1)

GREEN (RELAY N.C.1)

MOV MAGNETIC

LOCK

+

_

CABLE

RED (+ POWER)

BLACK (- POWER)

WHITE (RELAY COM1)

GREEN (RELAY N.C.1) MOV MAGNETIC

LOCK

+

_

+

_

POWER SUPPLY

12-24 VOLTS

CABLE

RED (+ POWER)

BLACK (- POWER)

WHITE (RELAY COM1)

GREEN (RELAY N.C.1)

MOV MAGNETIC

LOCK

+

_

TSB WIRING FOR ONE MAGNETIC LOCK

T

SB WIRING FOR MULTIPLE MAGNETIC LOCKS

NOTE 1: MOV NOT NEEDED IF SECURITRON MAGNALOCK USED

NOTE 2: POWER SUPPLY MUST ALWAYS CONNECT DIRECTLY TO SENSOR

NOTE 3: IN POWER HOOK UP, POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

The sensor operates on 12-24 volts DC and is normally powered by the same power supply that operates

the lock. When connecting power, polarity must be observed. Note that the sensor draws 40 mA

when "at rest" and 25 mA when it is releasing the lock. As an additional safety feature, the TSB

includes a low voltage sensing circuit. The unit will keep working normally if input voltage declines

until it reaches roughly 9 volts. At that point, the TSB will automatically act as if all power was removed.

If a lock is being controlled, it will release. Input voltage could decline if the unit was being operated on

batteries and the batteries were discharging or because of a fault in the power supply.

3.2 DOUBLE BREAK WIRING

Many installations include a controlled access device such as a digital keypad or card reader. Such devices

typically have a REX (request to exit) input. When dry contacts close on this input, the entry device will

open the lock for the same amount of time that is programmed for entry. Use of the REX input for exit

has two benefits: you pick up timed exiting and also in the case of most entry controls, the REX input

must be used for exiting to avoid an alarm condition at the door.

If the REX input alone is used for exiting a safety/reliability problem will exist. If the entry

device malfunctions, exit will not be possible and people may be trapped. We therefore always

recommend double break wiring which is supported by the TSB-3 because of its two pole relay. The

TSB's NC contacts are used to break power to the fail safe electric lock while its NO contacts trip the REX

input of the controlled entry device. This releases the lock a second time, hence the term, "double break".

If the controlled entry device fails for any reason, direct exit is still possible.

3.3 ALL SECURITRON EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION

Figures 4 and 5 show "generic" use of the Touch Bar with any type magnetic lock and power supply.

Often, Securitron supplies all of these products and the installer expects an interconnection drawing for all

Securitron products. We provide such drawings in many of our manuals. In this case, the replacement of

PN# 500-16400

Page 6 Rev. C, 08/10

the generic products shown above with Securitron products is so simple as not to require separate

drawings. Just note that for any Securitron Magnalock, the red wire denotes the "+" input and the black

wire denotes the negative. Remember that you don't need to install the MOV with any Securitron

Magnalock. Securitron offers a wide range of different power supplies, so it is necessary to consult the

individual power supply manual to identify the DC output terminals. Then connect the power supply

outputs to the rest of the system as shown above.

FIG. 5: TSB DOUBLE BREAK WIRING

CABLE

RED (+ POWER)

BLACK (- POWER)

WHITE (RELAY COM1)

GREEN (RELAY N.C.1)

POWER SUPPLY

12-24 VOLTS

+

MOV

ACCESS CONTROL

REX INPUT

ACCESS CONTROL

LOCK CONTROL

NC CONTACTS

BLUE (RELAY COM2)

ORANGE (RELAY N.O.2) MAGNETIC

LOCK

NC NC

3.4 CAUTION ON USE WITH PROXIMITY CARD READERS

When a proximity card reader is used for entry and a Touch Bar is used

for egress, there is a small possibility of interference. The proximity

reader projects an electric field of considerable intensity and we have

seen rare cases where this can be picked up by the TSB. It depends

on the power of the proximity reader and the nearness of the reader

on the outside of the door to the bar on the inside. To make sure a

problem does not exist after the installation is complete, perform the

following test. Turn the bar sensitivity up as high as you can to the

point just before it is open all the time (see Section 3.6). Then, from

the outside of the door, place your hand on the reader and lean your

body against the door to see if the bar can be triggered. Coupling the

reader's energy though your body into the door, tends to increase the

bar’s sensitivity

If you find that the bar triggers from this test, there is some

interference. You have two options. It may be that the interference is

so little that when the sensor is adjusted down, there is no risk of

triggering from the outside. Experiment with this. Alternately,

Securitron has developed a simple filter circuit which will absorb the interference from the reader. See the

drawing above. This requires a 22,000 Micro Henry inductor (DigiKey part # M7223-ND, JD Miller part #

70F222AI). To install the inductor, identify the ring terminal which connects the left screw going into the

bar to the circuit board pad marked "bar". Clip this wire at the board and connect it to the left lead from

the inductor. Solder the right lead of the inductor into the pad marked "bar" on the sensor’s right side.

This pad is currently unused. Lay the inductor on top of the connector to finish.

3.5 CAUTION WITH SWITCHING POWER SUPPLIES

The TSB-3 is capable of being operated by a wide variety of power supplies and does not require regulated

power but a certain type of power supply called "switching" can interfere with operation.

Most regulated power supplies are of the "linear" type. Some switching

supplies can produce line noise which will affect the TSB and rendering it

hard to adjust. If you find that a TSB is hard to adjust, check the power

supply. If it is a switcher, the power supply can be replaced with a

linear Securitron unit or addition of two capacitors generally solves the

problem. Connect one .01 mF capacitor between power supply + and

earth ground. Connect a second .01 mF capacitor between power supply

negative and earth ground. See the drawing to the left.

3.6 ADJUSTING SENSITIVITY

With wiring completed, sensor adjustment should be set. Note that the sensor board has a potentiometer

on it accessible when the bar's end cap is removed (see Figure 6). The potentiometer on the sensor will

increase sensitivity when turned clockwise and decrease it when turned counterclockwise. Turn the pot

clockwise without touching the bar with a small flat blade screwdriver until you hear the relay click off.

In this condition, sensitivity is so high that the bar is “sensing” all of the time. Slowly rotate the pot

counter-clockwise until you hear the relay click off and then another 15 degrees counter-clockwise. This is

SWITCHING

POWER

SUPPLY

.01 mF

.01 mF

EARTH GROUND

INDUCTOR

SOLDER ONE END OF INDUCTOR

INTOPADMARKED"BAR"ONRIGH

T

SIDE OF SENSOR. CLIP WIRE

FROM RING TERMINAL, REMOVING

IT FROM SENSOR AND CONNECT

IT TO OTHER END OF INDUCTOR.

PN# 500-16400

Page 7 Rev. C, 08/10

generally a good setting. Before replacing the end cap, experiment by touching the bar and observe that

the lock releases. Experiment with gloves if you expect that they will be used. You may want to increase

the sensitivity somewhat, but if you leave it just below the point where it is continuously released, you

risk a condition where the unit will fail by being released all the time.

FIG. 6: END VIEW OF SENSOR/CIRCUIT BOARD

CABLE CONNECTOR (MALE)

RING TERMINAL

MAKES

CONTACT

FROM

SENSOR

TO BAR

POTENTIOMETER

BACKUP PUSH BUTTON

(ON OPPOSITE SIDE)

CIRCUIT BOARD

3.7 USE OF REDUNDANT (BACKUP) SWITCH AND LABELS

A red push switch is mounted on the rear of the bar. The purpose of this switch is to provide backup in

case of any malfunction or misadjustment of the sensor. Pushing the button breaks the connection

between the white (COM1) and green (NC1) wires just the same way as if the bar was touched. It

therefore provides a "hard" backup circuit break which will release the controlled fail safe lock. It does not

however affect the COM2 and NO2 circuit (blue and orange). If these NO contacts are being used, for

example, to provide REX input to an access control system, pushing the backup button will not achieve

this, but egress safety is maintained as with the switch mounted, there are two independent controls

which can release the door. In the event that the sensor fails, the button will still work.

A label is supplied which should be affixed to the bar (see drawing to

the right) to draw attention to the backup switch. Application of the label

is particularly important where people encounter the bar who are not

familiar with it such as in a public occupancy. The label includes two

arrows owing to the uncertainty of which end of the bar it will be

mounted on.

A second label stating “PUSH TO EXIT” is also shipped with the bar. If

desired, this label cab be affixed to the front center of the bar itself in

order to prompt users that the bar (rather than the door) must be pushed

to gain egress.

4. ELECTRIC LOCK SELECTION

Electric lock selection is important to obtain best results from the TSB. The product allows silent and

immediate egress without the mechanical action of traditional exit devices which require periodic

maintenance and replacement. Having no moving parts, the TSB possesses an extended operating life.

The product was designed for use with Securitron's Magnalock. The Magnalock secures the door

with magnetic force only and therefore has no possibility of jamming and thereby denying egress. The

Magnalock also has internal electronics which allow it to release very rapidly. When used with the TSB,

which is also a fast device, exit is immediate and the impression a person exiting gets is that the door is

not locked at all. Other magnetic locks generally operate significantly more slowly than the Magnalock.

This makes egress less convenient as a person must pause somewhat after touching the bar until the door

releases.

5. OPERATIONAL SECURITY CONSIDERATIONS

Typical use of the Touch Sense Bar provides free egress from the interior protected area. The electric lock

secures against unauthorized entry. It is of important concern that persons on the outside cannot activate

the bar from the outside. This is a common problem with other interior release devices. For instance, if a

panic bar with switch is used, it is possible to trip it from the outside if the intruder can introduce a coat

hanger in between the door and frame. Aluminum frame glass doors tend to allow this more than other

types. Similarly, microwave detectors used on the inside can sometimes be activated from the outside if

the door is vibrated strongly.

The Touch Sense Bar is more secure with respect to the outside. To assure this, however, the user must

be made aware of certain operational characteristics. The sensor functions by setting up an oscillating

electric field which conforms along any metal surface that contacts the sensor's antenna wire. In the

Touch Sense Bar it is the bar itself that carries the field. The electric field is disturbed by the near

EMERGENCY

RELEASE

BUTTON

PN# 500-16400

Page 8 Rev. C, 08/10

proximity of ionized fluids within the body, which form a conductive mass. It is this mass that the bar

detects. As a proximity device the bar is sensitive to the closeness of the mass. For example, if a person

wearing gloves touches the bar with his finger tip, the door will generally not release. When the gloved

hand is wrapped around the bar in normal use, the door will release because the conductive mass of the

hand is in much closer contact with the bar.

The main security concern regarding outside entry is if a person could introduce a metal wire from the

outside and make metal to metal contact with the bar. The field could then propagate along the wire and

be activated by the intruder's hand. In practice, this is unlikely. The bar is anodized and therefore

insulated so it will not make contact with the wire. The intruder would have to scratch away the

anodization which requires both effort and knowledge. Also the field propagates weakly along a thin wire.

If, however, high security from the outside is critical in the application, two steps should be taken. First,

the sensitivity of the bar should be set as low as satisfies the exit performance requirements. Second, the

insulation on the bar should be increased by painting it. This significantly increases resistance to

scratching. Electrostatic (powder coat) paint is recommended for greatest toughness.

6. SENSOR REPLACEMENT

A: Remove the end cap on the sensor side. Remove the cable connector from the circuit board.

B. Remove the two screws that connect the end piece to the aluminum bar. Note that this will free the

ring terminal that is soldered into the board on the pad marked, "bar". This ring terminal is the way the

sensor makes contact with the bar. Slide the complete end piece out of the bar.

C: With the end piece now loose in your hand, push the circuit board farther into the end piece. The

direction is as if you were pushing it into the bar. There will be some resistance from the wires that

connect the backup switch to the circuit board. Push it only far enough to completely reveal the

rectangular body of the backup switch.

D: Unscrew the plastic retaining ring that holds the backup switch to the end piece. Push up the freed

backup switch. Now the complete sensor + backup switch can be slid away from the end piece by

continuing to slide the board in the same direction.

E: To install the new sensor assembly, reverse the procedure detailed above. But note that the wires that

connect the backup push button to the circuit board must be folded over in the center of the board- inside

of the potentiometer. If the wires are allowed to fold outside the potentiometer, they will block access to

it and the board will not be able to slide fully forward.

PN# 500-16400

Page 9 Rev. C, 08/10

APPENDIX A

TROUBLESHOOTING

PROBLEM- The door will not release when the bar is touched.

To monitor operation of the bar, it is quite easy to hear the relay click when the bar is touched. If you

don't hear a click, try the backup switch. If the door does not release from the backup switch, it is

almost certain that the overall wiring of the installation is at fault. If the door releases from the backup

switch, the general wiring is correct but the sensor is not reading your touch. Make sure you understand

section 3.2 on how to adjust sensitivity of the bar. It may be set too low. Another fault could be that the

sensor itself is not receiving 12-24 DC power on the red and black wires. Check the power supply and, be

sure the input polarity is correct. Also, even if power is being applied on the red and black wires, it's

possible that it's not getting into the sensor. Check the connector block that plugs into the sensor card for

loose wires. Finally, it is possible that the ring terminal that connects the sensor to the bar itself has

come loose. See Figure 6.

If you can hear this click and the door does not release, try the backup switch. If the door still doesn't

release, the problem must be in the installation wiring as it is nearly impossible to have a failed sensor

relay and backup switch at the same time. Review your wiring to make sure the sensor is correctly

applied in the circuit. If you hear the click but only the backup switch releases the door, call the factory

as the defect appears to be in the relay contacts and the sensor will have to be replaced.

PROBLEM- The door remains released constantly

If you hear a click when you touch the bar but the lock remains released, the problem is probably in the

wiring which should be reviewed to be sure the sensor is correctly applied in the circuit. If you don't

hear a click, the sensor is probably adjusted too high (review section 3.2). Rotate the adjustment pot

counter-clockwise while not touching the bar. If this doesn't lock the door, some effect is probably

keeping the relay deenergized all the time (remember; the relay is energized when the lock is secure to

maintain fail safe operation).

The most likely cause for the relay to remain energized is that the sensor "sees" an overwhelmingly large

signal as if someone was continually touching the bar. This will happen if the bar is not properly isolated

from a metal door. Because of the plastic end pieces, the intrinsic isolation of the bar from the door is

many times greater than it needs to be. Make sure that there is no "foreign object" creating a conductive

path from the bar to the door. An example would be metal blinds.

The same effect will occur if the bar is used outside in the rain or if water is flowing down the inside of the

door. This overcomes the electrical isolation needed between the bar and door.

Certain large electronic noise sources can "swamp" the sensor although this is rare. Examples would

include large radio or radar transmitters in the building or a high voltage neon sign mounted within a few

feet of the door. Call the factory if you suspect noise induced problems.

Finally, in very rare instances, the sensor can “hang up” in a condition that continuously releases the door.

De-power the unit and turn the adjustment pot all the way counterclockwise. Then, re-power the unit and

note that the door locks. Then, readjust the sensor potentiometer normally.

IF YOUR PROBLEM PERSISTS, CALL SECURITRON: 1-800-MAG-LOCK

PN# 500-16400

Page 10 Rev. C, 08/10

MAGNACARE LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY

Warranty information visit: www.securitron.com/en/site/securitron/About/MagnaCare-Warranty

PN# 500-16400

Page 11 Rev. C, 08/10

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