Voxx Electronics DEI7541 Security/Remote Control Transmitter User Manual N5501V 10 06e indd

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Date Submitted	2006-10-20 00:00:00
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Document Author:	Mark.Chasey

Model 7900
Installation Guide
DRAFTF
NOTE: This product is intended for installation by a professional installer only!
Any attempt to install this product by any person other than a trained professional
may result in severe damage to a vehicle’s electrical system and components.
© 2006 Directed Electronics, Vista, CA
N5501V 10-06
T
DRAFTF
Bitwriter®, Code Hopping™, Doubleguard®, ESP™, FailSafe®, Ghost Switch™, Learn Routine™, NiteLite®, Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry, Revenger®, Silent Mode™, Soft Chirp®, Stinger®, Valet®,
Vehicle Recovery System®, VRS®, and Warn Away® are all Trademarks or Registered Trademarks of
Directed Electronics.
New Software Compatibility for
103T Keypad
The Bitwriter® (p/n 998T)
requires chip version 2.2 or
newer to program this unit.
This unit now has software that
allows arming with entry delay when
used in conjunction with the optional
103T Keypad. Refer to the 103T
Owner’s Guide for details.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
table of contents
what is included. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
warning! safety first . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
installation points to remember . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
before beginning the installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
after the installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
deciding on component locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
locations for the siren . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
locations for the control module . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
locations for stinger doubleguard shock sensor . . . 7
mounting the antenna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
locations for valet/program switch . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
locations for the status LED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
finding the wires you need . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
locations for the optional starter kill relay . . . . . . 9
locations for the relay satellite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
obtaining constant 12V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
finding the 12V switched ignition wire . . . . . . . . 10
finding the starter wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
finding the tachometer wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
finding the accessory wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
finding the wait-to-start bulb wire for diesels . . . 11
finding a (+) parking light wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
finding the door pin switch circuit . . . . . . . . . . . 12
making your wiring connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector . . . . . . . .14
auxiliary harness (H2), 6-pin connector. . . . . . . . .14
door lock harness, 3-pin connector . . . . . . . . . . . .15
remote start ribbon harness, wiring diagram . . . . .15
heavy gauge inline connector key switch interface .16
remote start harness (H3), 5-pin connector . . . . . .16
horn, channel 6 (H4), 2-pin connector . . . . . . . . .16
relay satellite wire connection guide . . . . . . . . . . .23
remote start secondary harness (H3) wire . . . . . . . . .
connection guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
horn, channel 6 harness (H4) wire connection guide26
neutral safety switch interface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
testing the neutral safety switch . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
bypassing GM vehicle anti-theft systems (VATS) . . .29
1995 and newer vehicle anti-theft systems . . . . . . . .
(immobilizers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
passlock I and passlock II (PL-1 and PL-2) . . . . . 30
passkey III (PK-3), transponder-based systems . . 30
plug-in LED and valet/program switch . . . . . . . . . .31
programmer interface, 3-pin black plug . . . . . . . . .31
shock sensor harness, 4-pin connector . . . . . . . . . .32
tach learning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
programming jumpers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
tach threshold on/off . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
light flash (+)/(-) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
transmitter/receiver learn routine™ . . . . . . . . . . . .34
standard configuration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
remote control diagram. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
standard mode configuration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
multi-level security arming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
system features learn routine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
feature menus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
menu #1 - basic features . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
menu #2 - advanced features. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
menu #3 - remote start options . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
feature descriptions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
menu #1 - basic features . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
menu #2 - advanced features. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
menu #3 - remote start options . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
valet mode. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
rear defogger control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51
timer mode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
table of zones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
shutdown diagnostics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
to perform shutdown diagnostics . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
long term event history . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
safety check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
alarm troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
remote start troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
wiring quick reference guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58
relay satellite wiring quick reference guide . . . . . .59
DRAFTF
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
what is included
■ The control module
■ The plug-in status LED
■ A Responder receiver/antenna
■ The plug-in Valet/Program switch
■ One 2-way Color Remote Control P/N 7541V
■ A hood pinswitch
■ A Stinger Doubleguard shock sensor
■ A toggle (override) switch
■ A 514N Neosiren
■ One Remote Control car charger
warning! safety first
The following safety warnings must be observed at all times:
■ Due to the complexity of this system, installation of this product must only be performed by an authorized
Directed Electronics dealer.
DRAFTF
■ When properly installed, this system can start the vehicle via a command signal from the remote control
transmitter. Therefore, never operate the system in an area that does not have adequate ventilation. The
following precautions are the sole responsibility of the user; however, authorized Directed Electronics dealers
should make the following recommendations to all users of this system:
1. Never operate the system in an enclosed or partially enclosed area without ventilation (such as a
garage).
2. When parking in an enclosed or partially enclosed area or when having the vehicle serviced, the remote
start system must be disabled using the installed toggle switch.
3. It is the user's sole responsibility to properly handle and keep out of reach from children all remote
control transmitters to assure that the system does not unintentionally remote start the vehicle.
4. THE USER MUST INSTALL A CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR IN OR ABOUT THE LIVING AREA ADJACENT
TO THE VEHICLE. ALL DOORS LEADING FROM ADJACENT LIVING AREAS TO THE ENCLOSED OR PARTIALLY
ENCLOSED VEHICLE STORAGE AREA MUST AT ALL TIMES REMAIN CLOSED.
■ Use of this product in a manner contrary to its intended mode of operation may result in property damage,
personal injury, or death. Except when performing the Safety Check outlined in this installation guide, (1)
Never remotely start the vehicle with the vehicle in gear, and (2) Never remotely start the vehicle with the
keys in the ignition. The user will be responsible for having the neutral safety feature of the vehicle periodically checked, wherein the vehicle must not remotely start while the car is in gear. This testing should be
performed by an authorized Directed Electronics dealer in accordance with the Safety Check outlined in this
product installation guide. If the vehicle starts in gear, cease remote start operation immediately and consult
with the user to fix the problem immediately.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
fcc/id notice
This device complies with Part 15 of FCC rules. Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1)
This device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) This device must accept any interference received,
including interference that may cause undesirable operation.
Changes or modifications not expressly approved by the party responsible for compliance could void the user's
authority to operate this device.
caution
This product is designed for fuel injected, automatic transmission vehicles only. Use of this product in a standard
transmission vehicle is dangerous and contrary the product's intended use.
DRAFTF
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
■ After the remote start module has been installed, test the remote start module in accordance with the
Safety Check outlined in this installation guide. If the vehicle starts when performing the Neutral Safety
Shutdown Circuit test, the remote start unit has not been properly installed. The remote start module must
be removed or properly reinstalled so that the vehicle does not start in gear. All installations must be performed by an authorized Directed Electronics dealer. OPERATION OF THE REMOTE START MODULE IF THE
VEHICLE STARTS IN GEAR IS CONTRARY TO ITS INTENDED MODE OF OPERATION. OPERATING THE REMOTE
START SYSTEM UNDER THESE CONDITIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE OR PERSONAL INJURY.
IMMEDIATELY CEASE THE USE OF THE UNIT AND REPAIR OR DISCONNECT THE INSTALLED REMOTE START
MODULE. DIRECTED ELECTRONICS, INC. WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE OR PAY FOR INSTALLATION OR
REINSTALLATION COSTS.
installation points to remember
IMPORTANT! This product is designed for fuel-injected, automatic transmission vehicles only.
Installing it in a standard transmission vehicle is dangerous and is contrary to its intended use.
before beginning the installation
DRAFTF
■ Please read this entire installation guide before beginning the installation. The installation of this remote
start system requires interfacing with many of the vehicle’s systems. Many new vehicles use low-voltage or
multiplexed systems that can be damaged by low resistance testing devices, such as test lights and logic
probes (computer safe test lights). Test all circuits with a high quality digital multi-meter before making connections.
■ Do not disconnect the battery if the vehicle has an anti-theft-coded radio. If equipped with an air bag,
avoid disconnecting the battery if possible. Many airbag systems will display a diagnostic code through their
warning lights after they lose power. Disconnecting the battery requires this code to be erased, which can
require a trip to the dealer.
■ Check with the customer on status LED location.
■ Remove the domelight fuse. This prevents accidentally draining the battery.
■ Roll down a window to avoid being locked out of the car.
after the installation
■ Test all functions. The “Using Your System” section of the Owner's Guide is very helpful when testing.
■ When testing, don’t forget that this system is equipped with Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry (NPC). NPC can
bypass trigger zones, making them appear to stop working. See the Nuisance Prevention® Circuitry section.
■ Review and complete the Safety Check section of this guide prior to the vehicle reassembly.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
deciding on component locations
locations for the siren
Some things to remember about mounting the siren:
■ Keep it away from heat sources, such as radiators, exhaust manifolds, turbochargers, and heat shields.
■ Mount it where a thief cannot easily disconnect it, whether the hood is open or shut. Both the siren and its
wires should be difficult to find. This usually involves disguising the wire to look like a factory harness.
■ We recommend against grounding the siren to its mounting screws. Instead, we recommend running both
the red and black wires into the passenger compartment and grounding to one common point for all devices.
After all, both wires are the same length and come already bonded together. Whenever possible, conceal your
wires in the factory harnesses or in the same style loom as the factory.
■ When possible, place the siren on the same side of the vehicle as the control module, where its wires will
reach the control module’s wires without extending them. Always run the wires through the center of a
grommet, never through bare metal!
■ Point the siren down so water does not collect in it.
DRAFTF
locations for the control module
Some things to remember about where to mount the control module:
■ Never put the control module in the engine compartment!
■ The first step in hot-wiring a vehicle is removing the driver's side under-dash panel to access the starter
and ignition wires. If the control module is placed just behind the driver's side dash it can easily be disconnected.
■ When mounting the control module, try to find a secure location that will not require you to extend the harnesses’ wires (they are 1.5 meters long). Keep it away from the heater core (or any other heat sources) and
any obvious leaks.
■ Some good control module locations are: Above the glove box, inside the center console, above the under© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
dash fuse box, or above the radio.
mounting the antenna
The antenna position should be discussed with the vehicle’s owner prior to installation, since the antenna may
be visible to the vehicle’s operator. The best location for the antenna is centered high on either the front or
rear windshield. For optimal range, the antenna should be mounted horizontally. It can be mounted vertically
but range will be diminished. Metallic window tint can also affect range, so this should be a consideration when
determining the mounting location.
After determining the best mounting location, follow these steps:
1. Clean the mounting area with a quality glass cleaner or alcohol to remove any dirt or residue.
3. Mount the antenna using the supplied double-sided tape.
4. Route the antenna cable to the control module and plug it into the antenna connector.
IMPORTANT! To achieve the best possible range, DO NOT leave the antenna cable bundled under the
dash. Always extend the cable full length during installation, regardless of the antenna mounting
location.
DRAFTF
locations for stinger doubleguard shock sensor
Some things to remember about where to mount the shock sensor:
■ Never put the Stinger® in the engine compartment!
■ Find a spot close to the control module so that the wires do not need to be extended. Keep it away from the
heater core (or any other heat sources) and any obvious leaks.
How the Stinger® is mounted is the most important factor in its performance. We recommend two methods:
■ Using double-sided tape or hook-and-loop fastener to mount to a trim panel or an air duct,
or
■ Wire-tying to a wire harness.
If mounting the sensor where it cannot be easily reached for adjustment, hook-and-loop fastening tape (such as
Velcro) is recommended for ease of removal for future adjustments.
NOTE: In many vehicles, tying the sensor to a steering column or screwing it to metal will result in
poor sensitivity, especially at the rear of the vehicle.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
locations for valet/program switch
IMPORTANT! When the vehicle is delivered, please show the user where this switch is located and
how to disarm the system with it.
Ensure that the location you pick for the switch has sufficient clearance to the rear. The switch should be well
hidden. It should be placed so passengers or stored items (such as in a glove box or center console) cannot
accidentally hit it. The switch fits into a 9/32-inch hole.
DRAFTF
This system has Remote Valet. The user can enter and exit Valet Mode without having to reach the Valet/Program
switch. This feature was introduced so that switch location was less critical in day-to-day use. As long as the
Valet/Program switch can be reached to disarm without a transmitter, easy access is not important.
locations for the status LED
Things to remember when positioning the Status LED:
■ It should be visible from both sides and the rear of the vehicle, if possible.
■ It needs at least 1/2-inch clearance to the rear.
■ It is easiest to remove a small panel, such as a switch blank or a dash bezel, before drilling a 9/32-inch
hole.
■ Use quick-disconnects near the LED wires if the panel is removable. This lets mechanics or other installers
remove the panel without cutting the wires.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
locations for the optional starter kill relay
If optional starter kill relay or its connections are immediately visible upon removal of the under-dash panel, they
can easily be bypassed. Always make the relay and its connections difficult to discern from the factory wiring!
Exposed yellow butt connectors do not look like factory parts, and will not fool anyone! For this reason, routing
the optional starter kill wires away from the steering column is recommended.
locations for the relay satellite
The relay satellite wiring carries large amounts of current. The wires should not be extended and should be cut
to the minimum length necessary. Since the relay satellite is functioning as the ignition switch in the vehicle, it
is often convenient to mount the relay satellite close to the main ignition switch harness.
finding the wires you need
DRAFTF
Now that you have decided where each component will be located, you’re going to find the wires in the car that
the security system will be connected to.
IMPORTANT! Do not use a 12V test light or logic probe (computer safe test light) to find these
wires! Use a digital multimeter for all testing.
obtaining constant 12V
We recommend two possible sources for 12V constant: the (+) terminal of the battery, or the constant supply to
the ignition switch. Always install a fuse within 12 inches of this connection. If the fuse also will be powering
other circuits such as door locks, fuse accordingly.
IMPORTANT! Do not remove the fuse holder on the red wire. It ensures that the control module
has its own fuse, of the proper value, regardless of how many accessories are added to the main power
feed.
10
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
finding the 12V switched ignition wire
The ignition wire is powered when the key is in the run or start position. This is because the ignition wire powers
the ignition system (spark plugs, coil) as well as the fuel delivery system (fuel pump, fuel injection computer).
Accessory wires lose power when the key is in the start position to make more current available to the starter
motor.
How to find (+)12V ignition with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the ignition wire. The steering
column harness or ignition switch harness is an excellent place to find
this wire.
4. Turn the ignition key switch to the run position. If your meter reads (+)12V,
go to the next step. If it doesn’t, probe another wire.
5. Now turn the key to the start position. The meter display should stay
DRAFTF
steady, not dropping by more than a few tenths of a volt. If it drops close to or all the way to zero, go back
to Step 3. If it stays steady at (+)12V, you have found an ignition wire.
finding the starter wire
The starter wire provides 12V directly to the starter or to a relay controlling the starter. In some vehicles, it is
necessary to power a cold start circuit. A cold start circuit will test exactly like a starter circuit, but it does not
control the starter. Instead, the cold start circuit is used to prime the fuel injection system for starting when
the vehicle is cold.
How to find the starter wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the starter wire. The steering
column is an excellent place to find this wire. Remember you do not
need to interrupt the starter at the same point you test it. Hiding your
optional starter kill relay and connections is always recommended.
4. Turn the ignition key switch to the start position. Make sure the car
is not in gear! If your meter reads (+)12V, go to the next step. If it
doesn’t, probe another wire.
5. Cut the wire you suspect of being the starter wire.
6. Attempt to start the car. If the starter engages, reconnect it and go back to Step 3. If the starter does not
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
11
turn over, you have the right wire.
finding the accessory wire
An accessory wire will show +12V when the key is in the accessory and run positions. It will not show +12V
during the cranking cycle. There will often be more than one accessory wire in the ignition harness. The correct
accessory wire will power the vehicle's climate control system. Some vehicles may have separate wires for the blower
motor and the air conditioning compressor. In such cases, it will be necessary to add a relay to power the second
accessory wire.
finding the tachometer wire
To test for a tachometer wire, a multimeter capable of testing AC voltage must be used. The tachometer wire will
show between 1V and 6V AC. In multi-coil ignition systems, the system can learn individual coil wires. Individual
coil wires in a multi-coil ignition system will register lower amounts of AC voltage. Also, if necessary, the system
can use a fuel injector control wire for engine speed sensing. Common locations for a tachometer wire are the
ignition coil itself, the back of the gauges, engine computers, and automatic transmission computers.
DRAFTF
IMPORTANT! Do not test tachometer wires using a test light or logic probe (computer safe test light)!
This will damage the vehicle.
How to find a tachometer wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to ACV or AC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Start and run the vehicle.
4. Probe the wire you suspect of being the tachometer wire with the red probe of the meter.
5. If this is the correct wire the meter will read between 1V and 6V.
finding the wait-to-start bulb wire for diesels
In diesel vehicles it is necessary to interface with the wire that turns on the WAIT TO START light in the dashboard. This wire illuminates the bulb until the vehicle’s glow plugs are properly heated. When the light goes out
the vehicle can be started. This wire is always available at the connector leading to the bulb in the dashboard.
It can also be found at the Engine Control Module (ECM) in many vehicles.
To test and determine the polarity of this wire:
1. Set your multimeter to DCV or DC voltage (12 or 20V is fine).
2. Attach the (+) probe of the meter to (+)12V.
3. Probe the wire that you suspect leads to the bulb with the (-) probe of the meter.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
5. If the meter indicates 12 volts until the light goes out you have isolated the correct wire and the wire's
12
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
polarity is negative (ground while the bulb is on).
6. If the meter reads zero volts until the light goes out and then reads 12 volts, you have isolated the correct
wire and the wire's polarity is positive.
finding a (+) parking light wire
The (+) parking light wire is often found near the switch. Many cars have the switch built into the turn signal
lever, and in these cars the parking light wire can be found in the steering column. The same wire is often available in the kick panel or running board.
NOTE: Many Toyotas, as well as many other Asian vehicles, send a (-) signal from the switch to a
relay. The relay then sends (+)12V to the bulbs. Whenever you have difficulty finding a (+) parking
light wire near the switch, simply test the wires at any switch or control panel which is lit by the
instrument panel lighting. Remember, you need a (+) parking light wire that does not vary with
the dimmer setting.
How to find a (+) parking light flash wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
DRAFTF
2. Attach the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the parking light wire. Usually, the area near the headlight/parking light
switch is an excellent area to start, as is the kick panel.
4. Turn on the parking lights. If your meter shows (+)12V, turn off the parking lights and make sure it goes back
to zero.
5. If it does return to zero, turn the parking lights back on and, using the dash light dimmer control, turn the
brightness of the dash lights up and down. If the meter changes more than a volt when using the dimmer,
look for another wire. If it stays relatively close to (+)12V, you have found your parking light wire.
finding the door pin switch circuit
The best places to find the door switch wire are:
■ At the pin switch: When testing at the pin switch, check the wire to ensure that it “sees” all the doors. Often,
the passenger switch will cover all the doors even if the driver’s switch will not.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
13
■ At the dome light: This may not be your best choice if the vehicle has delayed domelight supervision, but it
will work in many Hondas, or any vehicle with completely diode-isolated pin switches.
Once you have determined the wire color, the easiest place to connect to the wire is often at the kick panel,
at the windshield pillar, or in the running board. When an easy location is not available, running a wire to the
domelight itself is often the best solution.
How to find a door pin switch trigger wire with your multimeter:
1. Set to DCV or DC voltage (12V or 20V is fine).
2. In most Fords, fasten the (-) probe of the meter to chassis ground. In most other cars, fasten the (+) probe
of your meter to (+)12V constant.
3. Probe the wire you suspect of being the door trigger wire. If the meter reads (+)12V when any door
is opened, you have found a trigger wire.
NOTE: Make sure the wire you use “sees” all the doors! Some newer GM vehicles lack standardtype pin switches. The dome light in these vehicles is turned on when the door handle is lifted.
These usually have a blue/white or white wire coming out of the door into the kick panel which
will provide a (-) trigger for all doors. Some GM vehicles (some Cavaliers, Grand Ams, etc.) have a
yellow wire coming out of the door which provides a (+) door trigger.
making your wiringDRAFT
connections
Before making your connections, plan how your wires will be routed through the vehicle. For instance, the red
12V constant input and the orange ground-when-armed output (for the optional starter kill relay) will often be
routed together to the ignition switch harness. In order to keep the wiring neat and make it harder to find, you
may wish to wrap these wires together in electrical tape or conceal them in tubing similar to what the manufacturer used.
There are two acceptable ways of making a wire connection - solder connections and crimp connectors. When
properly performed, either type of connection is reliable and trouble-free. Regardless of whether you solder your
connections or you use mechanical-type crimp-on connections, ensure that all connections are mechanically
sound and that they are insulated.
Cheap electrical tape, especially when poorly applied, is not a reliable insulator. It often falls off in hot weather.
Use good-quality electrical tape or heat shrink.
■ Never twist-and-tape the wires together without soldering.
■ Never use “fuse taps”, as they can damage fuse box terminals.
If you use tapping connectors such as 3M T-Taps (not to be confused with Scotch-Locks), avoid using them in
higher-current applications (constant 12V, ground, etc.). Some tapping connectors are inferior in quality and
14
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
should be avoided.
primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 ______
RED/WHITE
H1/2 ______
RED
H1/3 ______
BROWN
H1/4 ______
EMPTY
NOT USED
H1/5 ______
BLACK
(-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT
H1/6 ______
VIOLET
(+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3
H1/7 ______
BLUE
(-) MULTIPLEXED INPUT, ZONE 4
H1/8
GREEN
(-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT, ZONE 3
H1/9
H1/10
H1/11
H1/12
______
______
______
______
______
BLACK/WHITE
WHITE/BLUE
WHITE
ORANGE
(-) 200 mA CHANNEL 2 VALIDITY OUTPUT
(+) CONSTANT POWER INPUT
(+) SIREN OUTPUT
DRAFTF
(-) 200 mA DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT
(-) REMOTE START ACTIVATION INPUT
(+)/(-) SELECTABLE LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT
(-) 500 mA ARMED OUTPUT
auxiliary harness (H2), 6-pin connector
H2/1
H2/2
______
______
H2/3
______
H2/4
______
H2/5
H2/6
______
______
LIGHT BLUE
(-) SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT
WHITE/BLACK
(-) CHANNEL 5 OUTPUT
VIOLET/BLACK
(-) CHANNEL 4 OUTPUT
GREEN/WHITE
(-) FACTORY ALARM REARM
GRAY/BLACK
LIGHT GREEN/BLACK
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
(-) WAIT TO START INPUT
(-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM
15
door lock harness, 3-pin connector
______
______
______
LIGHT BLUE
(+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
EMPTY
NOT USED
GREEN
(-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT
Note: Refer to TechTip 1041 for wiring information.
remote start ribbon harness,Twiring diagram
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
DRAFT
PINK/WHITE 200 mA (-) PROGRAMMABLE IGN2/ACC2 RELAY TURN ON
YELLOW
PINK
(+) IGNITION INPUT TO ALARM
(-) 200 mA IGNITION RELAY TURN-ON
ORANGE
(-) 200 mA ACCESSORY RELAY TURN-ON
PURPLE
(-) 200 mA STARTER RELAY TURN-ON
ORANGE/BLACK
BLUE
(-) ANTIGRIND/GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT
(-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT
This ribbon harness connects to the relay satellite.
16
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
heavy gauge inline connector
key switch interface
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
______
PURPLE
GREEN
RED
ORANGE
PINK
RED
PINK/WHITE
RED/WHITE
(+) STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE)
STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE)
(+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
(+) OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT
(+) OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT
(+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
(+) OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT
(+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
DRAFTF
A 5-pin connector
remote start harnessR(H3),
H3/1
H3/2
H3/3
H3/4
H3/5
______
______
______
______
______
BLACK/WHITE
(-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
VIOLET/WHITE
TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
BROWN
GRAY
BLUE/WHITE
(+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN WIRE
(-) HOOD PINSWITCH INPUT, ZONE 1
(-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER- LATCHED/PULSED
horn, channel 6 (H4), 2-pin connector
H4/1
______
H4/2
______
ORANGE/BLACK
BROWN
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
CHANNEL 6 OUTPUT
(-) 200mA HORN
17
primary harness (H1) wire connection guide
H1/1 RED/WHITE channel 2, 200mA (-) output
When the system receives the code controlling Channel 2, for longer than 1.5 seconds, the red/white wire will
supply an output as long as the transmission continues. This is often used to operate a trunk/hatch release or
other relay-driven function.
IMPORTANT! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! The transistorized output can only supply 200 mA of current. Connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other
high-current device will cause it to fail.
DRAFTF
H1/2 RED (+)12V constant power input
Before connecting this wire, remove the supplied fuse. Connect to the battery positive terminal or the constant
12V supply to the ignition switch.
NOTE: Always use a fuse within 12 inches of the point you obtain (+)12V. Do not use the 15A fuse
in the harness for this purpose. This fuse protects the module itself.
H1/3 BROWN (+) siren output
Connect this to the red wire of the siren. Connect the black wire of the siren to (-) chassis ground, preferably at
the same point you connected the control module’s black ground wire. See Features Description section for horn
output.
18
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
H1/5 BLACK (-) chassis ground connection
Remove any paint and connect this wire to bare metal, preferably with a factory bolt rather than your own screw.
(Screws tend to either strip or loosen with time.) We recommend grounding all your components, including the
siren, to the same point in the vehicle.
DRAFTF
H1/6 VIOLET (+) door trigger input, zone 3
This wire is used in vehicles that have a positive (+) switched dome light circuit. Connect the violet wire to a wire
that shows (+)12V when any door is opened, and ground when the door is closed. This wire will report Zone 3.
H1/7 BLUE (-) multiplex input, zone 4
Inputs shorter than 0.8 seconds will trigger the Warn Away response, while inputs longer than 0.8 seconds will
trigger the full alarm sequence. If installing an optional Directed Electronics dual stage sensor, connect both the
blue and the green wires of the optional sensor to this input. This wire will report Zone 4.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
19
H1/8 GREEN (-) door trigger input, zone 3
Most vehicles use negative door trigger circuits. Connect the green wire to a wire which shows ground when any
door is opened. In vehicles with factory delays on the domelight circuit, there is usually a wire that is unaffected
by the delay circuitry. This wire will report Zone 3.
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200 mA domelight supervision output
Connect this wire to the optional domelight supervision relay as shown below:
IMPORTANT! This output is only intended to drive a relay. It cannot be connected directly to the
domelight circuit, as the output cannot support the current draw of one or more light bulbs.
DRAFTF
H1/10 WHITE/BLUE remote start (-) activation input
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to deactivate. The same holds true
for the remote control activation when set to a two pulse setting it is necessary to press the
button twice
for the remote start to activate or deactivate.
NOTE: The number of activation inputs can be programmed to 1 or 2 pulses. This setting affects
both the input wire and the remote control when operating the remote starter.
20
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
H1/11 WHITE (+/-) selectable light flash output
As shipped, this wire should be connected to the (+) parking light wire. If the light flash polarity jumper under
the sliding door is moved to the opposite position (see Internal Programming Jumper section of this guide), this
wire supplies a (-) 200 mA output. This is suitable for driving (-) light control wires in Toyota, Lexus, BMW, some
Mitsubishi, some Mazda, and other model cars.
(+) Positive Light Flash Output
DRAFTF
(-) Light Flash Output
NOTE: For parking light circuits that draw 10 amps or more, the internal jumper must be switched
to a (-) light flash output. (See the Internal Programming Jumper section of this guide.) P/N 8617
or a standard automotive SPDT relay must be used on the H1/2 light flash output harness wire.
H1/12 ORANGE (-) ground-when-armed output
This wire supplies a (-)500 mA ground as long as the system is armed. This output ceases as soon as the system
is disarmed. The orange wire may be wired to an optional Directed Electronics 8618 starter kill relay.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
21
secondary harness (H2) wire connection guide
H2/1 LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2nd unlock output
This wire provides a second unlock output for progressive locks. Refer to document 1041—Door Locking System
Wiring Guide for specific applications.
H2/2 WHITE/BLACK 200 mA (-) programmable channel 5 output
This wire provides 200 mA programmable output. (See Feature Descriptions section of this guide.)
IMPORTANT! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! This transistorized output can only supply 200 mA, and connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other
high-current device will cause the module to fail.
H2/3 VIOLET/BLACK 200 mA (-) programmable channel 4 output
DRAFTF
This wire provides 200 mA programmable output. (See Feature Descriptions section of this guide.)
IMPORTANT! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! This transistorized output can only supply 200 mA, and connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other
high-current device will cause the module to fail.
H2/4 GREEN/WHITE (-) factory alarm rearm
This wire sends a negative pulse every time the remote start shuts down or the doors are locked. This can be used to
pulse the arm wire of the vehicle's factory anti-theft device. Use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse to the arm wire.
H2/5 GRAY/BLACK (-) diesel wait-to-start bulb input
Connect this wire to the wire in the vehicle that sends the signal to turn on the WAIT-TO-START bulb in the dashboard. In most diesels the wire is negative (ground turns on the bulb) and the GRAY/BLACK wire can be directly
connected to the wire in the vehicle. If the vehicle uses a positive wire (12V to turn on the bulb) a relay must
be used to change the polarity. (See Finding the Wires You Need section of this guide.) Here are some common
colors of this wire:
■ Chevrolet and GMC trucks - Light blue or dark blue
■ Ford Trucks - Black/pink
■ Dodge Ram Trucks - Orange/black or black/orange
22
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
NOTE! A 1-amp diode must be installed in line on the factory wire between the wait-to-start indicator and the ECM. (See the following diagram for details.)
DRAFTF
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
23
H2/6 LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) factory disarm
This wire sends a negative pulse every time the remote start is activated or the doors are unlocked. This can be
used to pulse the disarm wire of the vehicle's factory anti-theft device. Use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse to
the disarm wire as shown in the following diagrams.
Relay for Negative (-) Disarm Wire
Relay for Positive (+) Disarm Wire
relay satellite wire connection
guide
DRAFT
The 8 heavy gauge wires coming from the large connector are used to energize high current circuits in the vehicle.
It is crucial that these connections are well-made and capable of handling the current demands. For this reason,
Scotch-Locks, T-taps and other such connectors are strongly discouraged.
PURPLE (+) starter output
Connect this wire to the starter wire in the vehicle. (See Finding the Wires You Need section.)
GREEN starter input
For anti grind or starter kill attach this wire to the key side of the starter wire for anti grind and for the starter
kill to be active.
RED (2) (+)12V input for high current outputs
Remove the two 30-amp fuses prior to connecting these wires and do not replace them until the satellite has
been plugged into the control module. These wires are the source of current for all the circuits the relay satellite will energize. They must be connected to a high current source. Since the factory supplies (+)12V to the key
switch that is used to operate the motor, it is recommended that these wires be connected there.
24
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
NOTE: If the factory supplies two separate (+) 12V feeds to the ignition switch, connect one RED
wire of the satellite to each feed at the switch.
ORANGE (+) accessory output
Connect this wire to the accessory wire in the vehicle which powers the climate control system.
PINK (+) ignition output
Connect this wire to the ignition wire in the vehicle.
PINK/WHITE (+) second ignition output
Connect this wire to the second ignition wire in the vehicle. (See Finding the Wires You Need section.)
NOTE: For vehicles that do not have a second ignition wire, this connection is not required.
DRAFTF
D harness (H3) wire
remote start secondary
RED/WHITE (+) 12V input
Connection for high current outputs.
connection guide
H3/1 BLACK/WHITE neutral safety switch input
Connect this wire to the provided toggle (override) switch as shown in figure A. Connect the other wire from the
toggle switch to the PARK/NEUTRAL switch in the vehicle. This wire will test with ground with the gear selector
either in PARK or NEUTRAL. This will prevent the vehicle from accidentally being started while in a drive gear.
This input MUST rest at ground in order for the remote start system to operate. Connected properly the vehicle
will only start while in PARK or NEUTRAL.
In some vehicles, the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch activates a factory starter lock out that will not allow the
starter to operate in a drive gear. In these vehicles, connect this wire to the toggle switch as shown in figure B.
Connect the other wire from the toggle switch to chassis ground.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
25
IMPORTANT! Always perform the Safety Check section of this installation guide to verify that the
vehicle cannot be started in ANY drive gear and that the override switch is functioning properly.
DRAFTF
26
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
Figure A
Figure B
H3/2 VIOLET/WHITE tachometer input
This input provides the module with information about the engine's revolutions per minute (RPMs). It can be
connected to the negative side of the coil in vehicles with conventional coils. In multi-coil and high energy
ignition systems locating a proper signal may be more difficult. (See Finding the Wires You Need section of this
guide.) Once connected, you must teach the system the tach signal. (See the Internal Programming Jumpers
section of this guide.)
DRAFTF
H3/3 BROWN (+) brake switch input, zone 1
This wire MUST be connected to the vehicle's brake light wire. This is the wire that shows (+) 12V when the
brake pedal is depressed. The remote start will be disabled or shut down any time the brake pedal is depressed.
This wire will also trigger the security system if the brake pedal is pressed while the system is armed and will
report Zone 1.
H3/4 GRAY (-) hood pinswitch input, zone 1
This wire MUST be connected to hood pinswitch. This input will disable or shut down the remote start when the
hood is opened. It will also trigger the security system if the hood is opened while the system is armed and report
Zone 1.
H3/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) status output
This wire supplies a 200mA output as soon as the module begins the remote start process. The H3/1 BLUE wire
can also be used to activate the defogger trigger (latched/pulsed) 10-seconds after the remote start engages.
(See the Feature Descriptions section in this guide for details about programming this output.)
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
27
horn, channel 6 harness (H4) wire
connection guide
H4/1 ORANGE/BLACK 200 mA programmable (-) channel 6 output
This wire provides a (-) 200mA output whenever the transmitter button(s) controlling Channel 6 is pressed. (see
also the Feature Descriptions section and previous channel 5 description):
IMPORTANT! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! This transistorized output can only supply 200 mA, and connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other
high-current device will cause the module to fail.
H4/1 BROWN 200 mA (-) horn output
This wire provides a (-) 200mA output to the horn when programmed.
DRAFTF
neutral safety switch interface
IMPORTANT! Never use this wire to drive anything but a relay or a low-current input! This transistorized output can only supply 200 mA, and connecting directly to a solenoid, motor, or other
high-current device will cause the module to fail.
Some vehicles do not have an electrical neutral safety switch. Instead, a mechanical neutral safety switch that
physically interrupts the starter wire is used when the vehicle is in any drive gear. If the remote start is interfaced before this switch, it will provide protection from starting in gear. However, some vehicles combine the
column shift mechanism and the mechanical neutral safety switch into one mechanical part. In these vehicles,
it is impossible to interface the remote start system before the neutral safety switch. With this type of vehicle,
if the car is left in a drive gear and the remote start system is activated, the vehicle will move and may cause
damage to persons or property.
According to available information, the only vehicles currently manufactured this way are most General Motors
trucks, sport utility vehicles and column shifting passenger cars. Available information also indicates that pre1996 Dodge Dakota pickups with 2.5 liter motors are manufactured this way as well.
GM vehicles that have the neutral safety switch built into the column shifter can usually be identified by a purple
starter wire. Typically, vehicles that use an outboard mechanical switch use a yellow wire from the ignition switch
28
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
to the mechanical switch and a purple wire from the mechanical switch to the starter itself. Remember, this is
only a rule of thumb and is not intended as a substitute for proper testing.
We suggest the following procedure to test for vehicles manufactured in this way.
NOTE: You must complete the remote start system installation before doing the following test.
Ensure that the remote start system is functioning normally. This includes connecting to the brake
as a shut-down.
testing the neutral safety switch
1. Make sure there is adequate clearance to the front and rear of the vehicle because it may move slightly.
2. Make sure the hood is closed and there are no remote start shut-downs active.
3. Set the emergency brake.
4. Turn the key to the "run" position, this will release the shifter.
5. Place the car in drive (D).
6. Place your foot directly over the brake pedal, but do not depress it. Be ready to step on the brake if the
starter engages.
7. Activate the remote start system.
DRAFTF
8. If the starter engages, immediately depress the brake to shut the remote start system down. If the starter
does not engage, no additional safety system is required.
If the starter engages and the vehicle is a General Motors product or Dodge Dakota pickup, refer to the following text and diagrams for an alternative shut-down method which will prevent the starter from engaging. If
the vehicle is not a General Motors product or a Dodge Dakota pickup, please call Directed Electronics Technical
Support for an alternative shut-down method. Do not return the vehicle to the customer until this feature is
properly installed!
Every vehicle built in this fashion requires that the shifter be placed in park to remove the keys from the ignition. As a result, it is possible to use the key-in-ignition sense switch to prevent remote starting if the keys are
in the ignition. The following diagrams illustrate how to accomplish this. The first diagram applies to all General
Motors vehicles at the present time. The second diagram applies to all pre-1996 Dodge Dakota pickup trucks
with 2.5 liter motors. This solution has one side effect - if the customer inserts the key in the ignition with the
driver's door open, the remote start system will shut down. If this interface is used it is important to inform the
customer to close the driver’s door before inserting the key into the ignition when the remote start is active.
This will allow the customer to turn the key on and shut the remote start down by pressing the brake without
the key sense wire shutting down the unit prematurely.
In addition, you must connect a tan (+) shut-down input to the yellow wire on the relay satellite ribbon cable.
This prevents the remote start system from activating if the key is left in the "run" position. If your remote start
system only has one tan input, you must use diodes to isolate the ignition circuit from the brake switch input.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
29
However, due to future manufacturer changes in vehicles, it is possible that this may not apply to all vehicles.
In addition, color variations are possible from model to model; make sure to test the circuit carefully. Please call
Directed Electronics Technical Support if you need assistance in making this interface.
IMPORTANT! Once the interface is complete, attempt to remote start the vehicle with the door closed
and the key in the ignition. The vehicle should not start. If it does, recheck the connections.
General Motors trucks, sport utility vehicles and column shifting passenger vehicles:
DRAFTF
Pre-1996 Dodge Dakota pickups with 2.5 liter motors:
30
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
bypassing GM vehicle anti-theft systems (VATS)
Vehicles with the GM VATS (Pass Key) systems have a resistor embedded in the ignition key. If the VATS decoder
module does not measure the proper resistance when the vehicle is started, the starter and fuel pump may be
disabled for up to ten minutes. An optional "VATS pack" of resistors is available (p/n 652T). One of the resistors in
the pack will match the resistor in the key.
The VATS wires will be two very light-gauge wires coming out of the steering column. The colors of the wires
vary, but they are often contained in orange tubing - either both will be white wires, or one wire will be purple/
white and the other white/black. Determine the value of the resistor in the key. Then follow the diagram below
to bypass VATS during remote start operation. If the BLUE status output from the relay satellite has been programmed for factory security re-arm, then use the (H3/5) BLUE/WHITE 2nd status output from the control module
to control the relay.
NOTE: When connecting to the VATS wires, it is not important which wire is cut.
85
86
87 87A
WHITE OR WHITE/BLACK
BLUE OR
BLUE/WHITE
TO IGNITION KEY SWITCH
WHITE OR PURPLE/WHITE
DRAFTF
PROPER RESISTOR VALUE
CUT
30
(+) 12V CONSTANT FUSED
TO VATS DECODER MODULE
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
31
1995 and newer vehicle anti-theft systems
(immobilizers)
1995 and newer vehicle anti-theft systems (immobilizers) require a bypass module. The bypass module allows for
easy interfacing, while still maintaining the OEM system’s integrity.
passlock I and passlock II (PL-1 and PL-2)
The Passlock I and Passlock II systems can be found in the following General Motors vehicles:
■ ‘95 and newer Cavalier and Sunfire
■ ‘96 and newer Achieva, Grand Am, and Skylark
■ ‘97 and newer Intrigue, Malibu, and Cutlass
■ ‘98 and newer trucks, vans, SUVs
■ ‘99 and newer Alero
■ 2000 and newer Impala and Saturn
DRAFTF
Passlock I and II systems are VATS-evolved. Passlock systems still rely on the R-code to start, but the pellet is
no longer placed in the key. The resistor can now be found in the key switch. This allows for a greater number
of possible R-codes. In addition, Passlock systems require “seeing” the correct R-code at the correct time. To
bypass Passlock I and II, p/n 555L or p/n 555T is required.
passkey III (PK-3), transponder-based systems
The Passkey III system can be found in the following vehicles:
■ ‘97 and newer Park Avenue
■ ‘98 and newer Cadillac
■ ‘99 and newer U vans, Transport, Montana, and Silhouette
■ 2000 and newer Grand Prix, Lesabre, Monte Carlo, Lumina, Bonneville
■ 2001 and newer Aurora, Aztek and Rendezvous
Other transponder-based systems include: Acura, BMW, Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep, Ford, Honda, Infinity, Mazda,
Mercedes, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Toyota, Volkswagon, and Volvo.
PK-3 and the transponder-based systems use a transponder system that locks out the ignition and fuel system.
This transponder system is comprised of two parts. The first part, the transceiver, circles the key switch and is
activated when the key is placed in the key switch or turned to the run position. Upon activation, the transceiver
will excite the transponder, which is located (but not visible) in the head of the ignition key. The key transpon-
32
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
der will then send a unique code back to the transceiver for evaluation. If the code matches a valid code of the
system, the vehicle will be allowed to start. Most of these transponder-based systems can be bypassed using p/n
555U. Some may require additional parts from the vehicle manufacturer. Consult you dealer for the applications.
For most Ford PATS transponders, p/n 555F can be used, except for the following vehicles, which will require p/n
555U: ‘97 and newer Mark VII, and 2000 and newer Taurus/Sable, Contour/Mystique and Focus.
plug-in LED and valet/program switch
These plug into the module. The Status LED plugs into the small two-pin socket, while the Valet/Program Switch
should be plugged into the larger blue two-pin connector. The Status LED fits into a 9/32-inch hole.
Status LED
DIA-41
Valet/Program Switch
DRAFTF
programmer interface, 3-pin black plug
The black 3-pin port is provided for personal computer programming of the unit. The unit can also be programmed using the Bitwriter® (p/n 998T). When using the Bitwriter, it is possible to configure any and all of
the programmable functions as well as lock the Transmitter/Receiver and System Features Learn Routines so that
unauthorized users cannot change the configuration or program transmitters to the unit.
When the learn routines have previously been programmed using the Bitwriter, they may have been locked.
Before proceeding with reprogramming the learn routines, they must be unlocked with the Bitwriter - this
cannot be done manually with the Valet switch.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
33
shock sensor harness, 4-pin connector
GREEN (-) multiplex input, zone 4
Inputs shorter than 0.8 seconds will trigger the Warn Away response, while inputs longer than 0.8 seconds will trigger
full alarm sequence and report Zone Four. If installing an optional Directed Electronics dual stage sensor, connect to
the green wire as shown below. The diagram below eliminates the need for diodes to isolate the sensors.
Diagram for adding optional Directed Electronics dual stage sensor to green wire (Zone 4):
BLUE (-) multiplex input, zone 2
DRAFTF
Inputs shorter than 0.8 seconds will trigger the Warn Away® response, while inputs longer than 0.8 seconds will
trigger full alarm sequence and will also report Zone Two.
RED and BLACK: RED is (+)12V constant, BLACK is (-) ground
Do not use these for anything besides the plug-in shock sensor.
tach learning
To learn the tach signal:
1.
Start the vehicle with the key.
2.
Within 5 seconds, press and HOLD the Valet/Program switch.
DRW-96
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© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
3.
The LED will light constant when the tach signal is learned.
4.
Release the Valet/Program switch.
programming jumpers
DRAFTF
tach threshold on/off
In most cases, this jumper can be left in the OFF position. Some new vehicles use less than 12 volts in their
ignition systems. The unit may have trouble learning the tach signal in these vehicles. Changing the jumper
to the ON setting changes the trigger threshold of the digital tach circuit so it will work properly with these
vehicles. These vehicles include many newer Dodge/Chrysler/Plymouths, such as the Neon Cirrus/Stratus/Breeze
and LH-based cars.
light flash (+)/(-)
This jumper is used to determine the light flash output. In the (+) position, the on-board relay is enabled and
the unit will output (+)12V on the WHITE wire, H1/11. In the (-) position, the on-board relay is disabled. The
WHITE wire, H1/2, will supply a 200 mA (-) output suitable for driving factory parking light relays.K
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
35
NOTE: For parking light circuits that draw 10 amps or more, the internal jumper must be switched
to a (-) light flash output. P/N 8617 or a standard automotive SPDT relay must be used on the
H1/11 light flash output harness wire.
™
transmitter/receiver learn routine
The system comes with one transmitter that is programmed to the antenna. The system can store up to 4 different transmitter codes in memory. Use the following learn routine to add transmitters to the system or to change
button assignments if desired.
The learn routine may be locked if previously programmed using the Bitwriter®. If the siren generates one long
chirp when attempting to program the unit, the learn routine is locked and must be unlocked using the Bitwriter®
before proceeding.
The Valet/Program switch, plugged into the blue port, is used for programming. There is a basic sequence of steps
DRAFTF
to remember whenever programming this unit: Door, Key, Choose, Transmit and Release.
1.
Open a door. (The GREEN wire, H1/8, or the VIOLET, H1/6 must be connected.)
2.
Key. Turn the ignition to the ON position.
3.
Choose. Within 10 seconds, press and release the Program switch the number of times
corresponding to the desired channel listed below. Once you have selected the channel,
press the switch once more and HOLD it. The LED will flash and the horn will honk (if
connected) to confirm the selected channel. Do not release the Program switch.
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© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
CHANNEL NUMBER
FUNCTION
WIRE COLOR
Auto Learn Standard Configuration* (default)
Arm only
Disarm only
Silent Mode™/Remote Valet/Trunk Release
Remote Start
Channel 4
VIOLET/BLACK
Channel 5
WHITE/BLACK
Channel 6
Short Run/Turbo
10
Timer Mode
11
Arm/Disarm/Panic
12
Panic only
13
Defogger Control
14
Delete all transmitters**
RED/WHITE
DRAFTF
*NOTE: For Auto Learn Configurations, see Transmitter Configurations section of this guide.
**NOTE: If any button from a known transmitter is programmed to Channel 14, all transmitters will be erased from memory and will revert to the default feature settings. This is
useful in cases where the customer's transmitters are lost or stolen.
4.
Transmit. While HOLDING the Valet/Program switch, press the button on the transmitter
that you would like to control the selected receiver channel. The unit will chirp to confirm
that the code has been successfully programmed. It is not possible to teach a transmitter
button to the system more than once.
5.
Release. Once the code is learned, the Valet/Program switch can be released.
You can advance from programming one channel to another by releasing the Valet/Program switch and tapping
it to advance channels and then HOLDING it. For instance: You have programmed Channel 1 and you want to
program Channel 2. Release the Valet/Program switch. Press it one time and release it to advance from Channel
1 to Channel 2. Now, press and HOLD the Valet/Program switch. The LED will flash two times and the horn will
honk twice (if connected). As before, do not release it.
If you want to program Channel 3 after programming Channel 1, release the Valet/Program switch, press it twice
and release it to advance to Channel 3. Then press it once more and HOLD it. The horn will honk three times (if
connected) and the LED will flash three times to confirm it is ready to receive the code from the transmitter.
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved
37
Learn Routine will be exited if:
■ Door is closed.
■ Ignition is turned off.
■ Program switch is pressed too many times.
■ More than 15 seconds between steps.
transmitter configurations
The transmitter can be programmed to standard or custom button configurations by using the Auto Learn functions in the Transmitter/Receiver Learn Routine.
standard configuration
A remote that uses the standard configuration operates similarly to many factory keyless entry remotes. A stan-
DRAFTF
dard configuration transmitter allows arming, disarming, and Panic Mode activation with separate buttons. When
programmed for standard configuration, the transmitter buttons are assigned to the following functions:
.................................operates ...........................Arm/Lock,
OFF
Panic ON/Panic
.................................operates ...........................Disarm/Panic OFF
.................................operates ...........................Remote Start
.................................operates ...........................Channel 2—trunk
release
and
............... operate............................Timer Mode
and
............... operate ..........................Short Run/Turbo
timer
and
38
............... operate............................Channel 4
© 2005 Directed Electronics—all rights reserved

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