CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Manual L0712074

User Manual: CRAFTSMAN CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Manual CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Owner's Manual, CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial installation guides

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Operators

Manual

MODEL NO.

113.197110

113,197150

10" RADIAL SAW

WITH LEG SET

Serial

Number

Model and serial numbers

may be found at the rear of

the base.

You should record both

model and serial number in

a safe place for future use.

CAUTION:

READ ALL

INSTRUCTIONS

CAREFULLY

CRRFTSMRN

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

•Assembly

•Operating

•Repair parts

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Part No. SP5249 Printed in U.S.A.

FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY ON CRAFTSMAN RADIAL SAW

It within one year from the date of purchase, this Craftsman Radial Saw fails due to a defect in material or

workmanship, Sears will repair it, free of charge.

WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY SIMPLY CONTACTING THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE

CENTER/DEPARTMENT THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES.

This warranty applies only while this product is used in the United States.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from stale to state.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., DEPT. 698/731A Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684

Table of Contents

Section Title Page Numbers

Safety Information ............................................ 3-6

Putting Your Saw Together .................................... 7-12

Location and Function of Controls ............................ 13-16

Alignment of the Blade ...................................... 17-33

Electrical Connections ....................................... 34-35

Crosscutting ................................................ 36-42

Ripping .................................................... 43-51

Cutting Accessories .......................................... 52-55

Recommended Accessories ...................................... 56

Lower Blade Guard Safety Information ........................... 57

Glossary ...................................................... 58

Helpful Hints ................................................. 59

Maintaining Your Saw ....................................... 60-67

Changing Motor Voltage ........................................ 68

Trouble Shooting ............................................ 69-73

Parts Lists ................................................. 74-87

Safety Information

The operator's manual contains safety infor-

mation, instructions and signs for your protec-

tion against serious injuries, including:

Loss of fingers, hand, arm or leg from contact

with the saw blade.

Eye injuries, including being blinded from

being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece

chips or pieces of the saw blade.

Impact injuries, including broken bones and

internal organ damage, from being hit by a

thrown workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces

of the saw blade.

Shock, electrocution, or burn injuries from

contact with wires, motor or other saw parts.

Safety Symbol and Signal Words

The safety information in this manual is high-

lighted by the following safety alert symbol.

Major Hazards

1. Workpiece Kickback

Kickback is an uncontrolled grabbing and

throwing of the workpiece during ripping. If

kickback occurs, the workpiece can hit

you hard enough to cause broken' bones, in-

ternal organ injury or death. To reduce or

prevent kickback, read and follow the safety

information in the Ripping section of the

manual.

Fig. 2Kickback Safety Sign

Fig. 1 Safety Alert Symbol

The following signal words are used to indi-

cate the level of risk.

DANGER: Means that if the safety infor-

mation is not followed, someone will be

seriously injured or killed.

A WARNING: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone could be

seriously injured or killed.

CAUTION: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone may be in-

jured.

All of the safety information and cutting

steps are critical to the safe operation of the

radial arm saw.

2. Kickback Followed by Blade Contact

Kickback followed by blade contact can hap-

pen when the saw blade is pinched or bound

by the workpiece during ripping. Kickback

can happen if you reach around the blade to

the end with the anti-kickback pawls, (out-

feed end), and try to hold-down or pull the

workpiece through to complete the cut. Your

fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off by the

blade if the workpiece kicks back.

Kickback, Blade

Contact.

Fingers, hand, arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for Ripping

Fig. 3 Blade Contact Safety Sign

3. Wrong Way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece

into the end of the saw with the anti-kickback

pawls. The workpiece can be grabbed by the

blade and puli your hands into the blade

before you can let go or pull back. Fingers,

hand or arm can be cut off.

Wrong Way Feed.

Fingers,hand, arm

can De cut off.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig. 4 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign

If a workpiece is fed into the end of the saw

with the anti-kickback pawls, it can take off

like a missile. Anyone hit by the workpiece

can be killed. Feed the workpiece into the in-

feed end of the saw blade, the end that does

not have the anti-kickback pawls.

Wrong Way Feed.

Workpiece impact

can kill others.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig. 5 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign

4. Throwla Workpiece Chips and Blade

Pieces

The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece

chips or pieces of the blade violently. You

can be blinded. Wear safety goggles labeled

"ANSI Z87.1' on the package.

can be blinded

Wear safety

goggles.

Fig. 6 Safety Goggles Safety Sign

_1_ DANGER: Follow the 8 steps listed

below to reduce or eliminate the risk of

being injured when using the radial arm

saw. Failure to do so can result in a life

threatening injury or death.

1. Lower the anti-kickback pawls and

spreader when crosscutting and ripping.

2. Set blade guard in horizontal position

when crosscutting.

3. Lower blade guard nose only when rip-

ping.

4. Keep hands as far away from the blade

as possible when cutting.

5. Return the saw to its rearmost position

after each crosscut.

6. Wait until the blade has stopped turn-

ing before reaching for the workpiece or

anything else on the table.

7. Read and follow the safety information

and safety instructions in the operator's

manual and in the safety labels on the

radial arm saw.

8. I4alow location and function of all con-

trols before using saw. See the Location

and Function of Controls section.

Personal Safety

1. Wear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87.1"

on the package. Do not wear regular glasses,

they are not safety glasses.

2. Wear snug fitting clothes, short sleeve

shirts and nonslip footwear. Cover up or tie

long hair. Do not wear loose, baggy clothes,

gleves, neckties, rings, watches or any other

jewelry.

3. Wear a dust mask, with your safety gog-

gles, if cutting operation is dusty.

4. Wear hearing protectors, ear plugs or

muffs, if you use the saw daily.

5. Keep good footing and balance. Don't over-

reach.

Work Area Safety

1. Keep children, pets and visitors out of the

work area.

2. Make the work area child proof. Remove

the yellow key from the red switch and place

it out of reach and sight. Lock work area.

3. Keep floors dry and free from sawdust, wax

or other slippery materials.

4. Keep work area clean, uncluttered and

well lighted.

5. Use the saw in a dry area. Do not use in

wet or damp area. Do not use outside.

6. Clear the table of all ebjects (adjusting

wrenches, tools, scraps of wood etc.) except

the workpiece to be cut, fixtures or clamps

before turning the saw on.

7. Do not do layout, assembly or setup work

on the table while the blade is turning.

8. Store items away from the saw. Do not

climb on the saw to reach items. Do not

stand on the table; tile saw can tip over.

Saw Salty

1. Keep guards and anti-kickback pav_l_in

place and in working order.

2. Check for broken or damaged parts before

using saw. A damaged guard or other saw

part should be checked for alignment, bind-

ing, breakage and correct mounting to make

sure they are working properly. Repair or

replace damaged guards or other saw parts.

3. Unplug saw before doing maintenance,

making adjustments, and changing blades and

accessories.

4. Use clamps or vice to hold workpiece

when practical. It's safer than using your

hands and frees them to operate the saw.

5. Do not force the saw, saw blade or acces-

sories to do jobs they are not designed to do.

6. Make sure the yellow key is removed and

the red switch is in the off position before

plugging in the power cord.

7. Cut only wood, woodlike or plastic

materials. Do not cut metal materials.

8. Secure the saw to floor, wall, bench or

table if it slides, tips or walks during use.

9. Feed the workpiece against the direction

of rotation of the blade when ripping.

10. Turn the saw off before leaving work

area. Do not leave the saw until the blade

has stopped.

11. Lock the rip and miter locks before

moving the saw from one location to another.

12. Turn the saw off and remove yellow key if

the blade jams. Do not try to free a jammed

workpiece with tlle saw on.

13. Turn the saw off if it vibrates excessively

or makes an unfamiliar noise. Correct any

problems before restarting saw.

14. Rip workpieces that are longer than the

diameter of the blade being used. Do not rip

a workpiece that is shorter than the diameter

of the blade being used.

15. Cut only one workpiece at a time. Do

not cut stacked workpieces or lay them edge

to edge for cutting.

Workpiece Support Safety

1. Use additional supports for workpieces

which extend beyond the saw table. Large

workpieces can shift, twist, rise from table or

fall after they are cut.

2. Helpers can be hit by a thrown workpiece,

workpiece chips or pieces of the blade. Use

table extensions or other supports. Do not

use helpers.

3. t lelpers call cause the workpiece to kick-

back. Do not use other people to support or

assist in feeding or pulling tile workpiece.

Use table ex,_ensions.

4. When table extensions over 24 inches wide

are added to either side of the saw, make

sure you either bolt the saw to the floor or

support the outer end of the extension from

the floor with sturdy legs or an outrigger.

Safety Labels on the Radial Arm Saw

The following labels are on your radial arm

saw. Locate, read and follow the safety in-

structions and information contained in these

labels.

1. Wrong way feed label located on the out-

feed end of the blade guard.

DANGER

TO AVOID

INJURY DO NOT

FEED MATERIAL

INTO CUTTING

TOOL FROM

THIS END

Fig. 7 Wrong Way Feed Label

2. Safety instruction label located on the

front of the saw near the handwheel.

[ DANGER ]

FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY:

t. Read and understand owner's manual

before operating machine.

2. Wear safety goggles complying with ANSI

Z87.1.

3. Keep hands out of path of saw blade.

4. Never reach around the saw blade.

5. Never perform any operation

"FREEHAND?

6. Return carriage to the lull rear position after

each cross-cut type operation.

7. Shut off power and allow saw blade to stop

before adjusting or servicing.

5. USE ONLY RECOMMENDED ACCES-

SORIES: Follow the instructions that come with

the accessories. Consult the owner's manual for

recommended accessories. The use of improper

accessories may cause risk of injury to persons.

Blade Safety

1. Use blades marked for 3450 rpm or higher.

2. Do not use blades larger than 10 inches in

diameter.

3. Keep blade sharp and clean.

4. Do not cycle motor switch on and off rapid-

ly; the blade can loosen.

Fig. 8 Safety Instruction Label

3. Ripping safety label located on the motor.

[DANGER I WHEN RIPPING

1, Read and understand owner's manual 5. Use _PUSH STICK" for narrow work.

before mttng rn_hWm.

2. Wellr _,lo_ goggtes complying with 6. Nt_/_r relK:h mrou_,d t he saw blade.

7. Never any operation

ANSI Z87.1, "PRIE_

4,3"KnowKlmpheJftds out ofhow to KI';_ th ot sllW bl_,? stop before IKlJu=ting or servicing.

avo_ patlCKSACK S 8. Shut off power mild allow _blsde to

__--_ \ \ O AVOID R_JNAWAY WO_KI_IECE

_ltlng tooe FROM rlt_ ENO ONLy

DANGER AT OUTFEED

Wod_plecm can m_r_'y kick _a_d

__ @pal I_mdo ktto Im_l under cuttl¢_ tool

Motor: 120 Volts 11.0 Amps 3450 R.PM. 6e HI. t Phase

Fig. 9 Ripping Safety Label

5. Do not ovcrtighten the blade; the blade

collar can be warped.

Putting Your Saw Together

Your radial arm saw is easy to put together,

however it will take time. Ask a friend to

help, and follow these assembly instructions.

It is important for your safety, and for the

quality of your cuts, that the saw be put

together with care.

_lb WARNING: Plugging the saw in

during assembly can result in electrical

shock or your fingers, hand, or arm be-

ing cut off from blade contact. Do not

plug in the saw at any time during as-

sembly. The saw should only be

plugged in when it is to be used.

Unpacking!Set up

1. As you unpack, try to keep the contents of

each of the smaller bags together and separate

from the others. This will help you identify and

locate the parts you need during assembly.

Fig. 10-Parts for Model 113.197110 and 113.197150

2. Identify the large parts of your saw before

beginning each section. Your task will be

easier if you are familiar with these parts.

The following parts are included with model

113.197110 or 113.197150:

*This

Basic Saw Assembly ............... 1

Operator's Manual ................ 1

Leg ............................. 4

Stiffener Lower ................... 4

U-Channel ....................... 1

Channel, Table Mounting .......... 2

Trim Caps ....................... 2

Rear Table ....................... 1

Spacer ........................... 1

Fence ............................ 1

Front Table ...................... 1

Loose Parts Bag* ................. 4

the total number of loose parts bags.

3. Identify the tools required for assembly.

Make sure that you have all of the tools you

will need. (Figure I 1)

_ @ Medium Screwdriver

_5 No, 2 Phillips Screwdriver

7116'" Wrench

112" Wrench _ ._j_

9/16" Wrench Hammer

3/4" Wrench

[_ Framing Square

3/4" Socket Pencil

9/16" Socket

Socket Wrench Socket Extension 3/16" Hex "'L"

Wrench

Fig. 11

Pliers

4. Open the loose parts bags, and sort the

contents into piles on the floor or table. This

will make it easier for you to find the part(s)

you need during assembly.

N Truss Hd. Screw 1/4-20 x 1/2 ..... 32

O Hex Nut 1/4-20 ................. 32

P Lockwasher Ext. 1/4 ............ 32

Q Foot Leveling ................... 4

R Hex Jam Nut 3/8-16 ............. 8

S Bracket, Leg ................... 4

T Indicator Rip ................... 2

U Indicator Bevel ................. 1

V Screw Pan Hd. 10-32 x 1/2 ....... 1

WLockwasher Ext. #10 ............ 1

X Switch Ke,¢ ..................... 1

Y Table Clamp (Unassembled) ..... 2

ZTee Nut ........................ 1

AA Cup Point Set Screw 1/4-20 x 7/8 . 1

AB Pan Hd. Screw Ty T

1/4-20 x 1-3/4 ................ 1

AC "U" Clip 1/4-20 ................ 1

AD Hex Hd. Screw 5/16-18 x 3/4 ..... 4

AE Washer 11/32 x 7/8 x 1/16 ........ 4

AF Lockwasher 5/16 ................ 4

AG Hex Nut 5/16-18 ................ 4

AH Pan ltd. Screw 1/4-20 x 1 ........ 4

AI Washer 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32 ....... 5

AJ Lockwasher 1/4 ................. 4

AK Hex Nut 1/4-20 ................. 4

AL Handwheel ..................... 1

AM Arbor Wrenches ................ 2

AN Sleeve ......................... 1

©°

©P

©w

I Ac

Information 2. Place the hex bushing inside the_handwh_l. I

1. If you are missing any part while putting

your saw together, do not continue assembly.

Contact your Sears Service Center or Retail

Store and get the missing part before continu-

ing assembly or trying to use the saw.

Complete parts listed are located at the end of

this manual. Use these lists to identify the

number of any missing part.

2. Sometimes small parts get lost in packag-

ing materials. Do not throw away any pack-

aging until your saw is put together. If you

are missing a part, check the packaging be-

fore contacting Sears.

3. Most parts of your radial arm saw will be

fastened together using truss head bolts, lock-

washers and hex nuts of the sizes shown.

(Figure 12) When different sizes are needed,

the instructions will include a sketch to help

you locate the correct size.

Fig. 12 -Truss Head Bolt, Lockwasher, Hex Nut

4. As you assemble your radial arm saw,

some of the holes in the parts will line up and

others will not. This happens because some

parts are used in other equipment or for other

purposes. Follow the instructions carefully.

The figures will show which holes should line

up in each step.

5. If it is difficult to get bolts through the

holes, you may need to use a Phillips screw-

driver to help shift the parts into place.

3. The hex bushing has a small flati_ea:pnli _

which matches a flat area on the elevatidn

shaft.

4. Align the two above flat areas and attach

the handwhee! using a screw and lockwasher.

)

ndwheel

Fig. 13

Fig. 14 -Screw, External Lockwasher and Hex

Bushing

Mounting the Motor

_WARNING: Plugging the saw in dur-

ing assembly can result in electrical

shock or your fingers, hand, or arm be-

ing cut off from blade contact. Do not

plug in the saw at any time during as-

sembly. The saw should only be

plugged in when it is to be used.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw and remove

the guard from the motor.

2. Use the arbor wrenches to remove the

blade from the saw. The arbor shaft has left-

handed threads, so you will have to turn the

nut clockwise to loosen.

Attaching Handwheel

1. Locate the handwheel, hex bushing, screw,

and lockwasher.

3. Lock the rip lock.

4. Turn the handwheel in a clockwise direction

to raise the radial arm about 2 inches and

remove the styrofoam packing blocks.

5. Cleanthe small piecesof styrofoam off

the saw.

6. Place the motor on the center channel of

the saw.

7. Remove the lock nut and flat washer from

the motorpivot support. (Figure 15)

Fig. 15

8. Slide the motor onto the motor pivot sup-

port. Make sure the motor is firmly in place.

9. Put the flat washer and locknut back in

place and tighten using a 3/4 inch socket

wrench. Move the bevel lock back and forth

as you tighten the locknut. Do not over-

tighten.

10. Push the bevel lock to the left as far as it

will go. (Figure 16)

If the bevel lock touches the left side of the

yoke, unlock the bevel lock and tighten the

Iocknut on the motor pivot support. Then go

to step 9 and repeat, or

If there is more than 1/16 inch gap between

the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke,

unlock the bevel lock and loosen the locknut

on the motor pivot support. Then go to step

J9 and repeat.

12. Repeat steps 9-10 until the bevel lock

will not touch the left side of the yoke, and

the gap is not more than 1/16 inch.

13. Lock the bevel lock.

Attaching the Leg Set

1. Mount floor leveler support brackets inside

legs. Line up the three tabs on brackets with

slot on leg and tap into place. Make sure lip on

bracket points up. (Figure 18')

Install the remaining three brackets the same

way.

Fig. 17- Support Bracket, Leveling Foot

Support Bracket

Fig. 18

Fig. 16

I 1. If there is a 1/16 inch gap or less between

the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke

(and they are not touching), go to step 13, or

2. Put a hex nut on each of the leveling feet.

Put the leveling feet through the holes in the

bottom of the floor leveler support bracket.

3. Put another hex nut on each of the leveling

feet and hand-tighten until they are against the

leg.

Leg

Support Bracket

Fig. 19

Hex Nuts

__keveling Foot

Building the LEG SET

The following parts are used in the leg set

assembly.

A Legs ........................... 4

B Lower Stiffeners ................. 4

C U-Channel ..................... 1

Fig. 20 - Leg Set

1. Lay a piece of cardboard on the floor to

keep from scratching the saw.

2. Position the basicsaw assembly on the floor

as shown below. The arm assembly should be

pointing up in a vertical position and the col-

umn support cover should be resting flat on

the floor. It may be necessary to have someone

help you lift the saw.

3. Use truss head bolts, lockwashers, and nuts

(see Fig. 22) to mount the two rear legs" to the

basic saw assembly. Make sure that the four

holes in each corner of the saw line up with

four holes in the top of each leg. Finger tighten

nuts at this time.

Switch Front

-- _ _tt_he_J'He_!

-- \ Floor

Column Support

Cover

4. Mount the two front legs to the basic saw

assembly using truss head bolts, lockwashers,

and nuts. However only put bolts through the

sides of the saw assembly not the front.

Fig. 22 -Bolt, External Lockwasher,

Hex Nut, U-Channel

Saw Base

//_ Channel

Nut and Leg

Lockwasher

Truss Head Screw

Fig. 23

5. Position the front channelpiece inside the

legset. (Figure 23) Fasten the channelpiece,

leg, and saw together with two truss head bolts

on each side. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on

each bolt. The threaded section of the bolt

should point towards the arm assembly.

6. Attach the four (4) lower stiffeners to the

legs'. Two (2) truss head bolts, washers, and

nuts are required to hold each end of a lower

stiffener in place. Hand tighten hex nuts.

Leg

7. Go back with a 7/16 wrench or socket and

tighten all hex nuts.

8. Carefully lift the saw into its normal posi-

tion. It will be necessary to have someone help

you in order to avoid damaging the saw.

Adjusting Leveling Feet

dl& WARNING: Saw blade can roll for-

ward toward you if the leveling feet are not

correctly adjusted. Workpiece or saw can

move unexpectedly if cabinet rocks. Fin-

gers, hand, or arm can be cut off from

blade contact. Adjust leveling feet before

using your saw.

1. If the leveling feet raise the front of the saw

slightly higher than the rear, and if the leg set

does not rock, go to step 7, or

If the leveling feet do not raise the front of the

saw slightly higher than the rear, go to step 2, or

If the leg set rocks, go to step 2.

2. Loosen the bottom hex nut on the desired

leveling foot using a 9/16 inch wrench.

3. Loosen the top nut by hand.

4. Adust the lower nut with the 9/16 inch

wrench until the leveling foot is at the desired

height.

5. Tighten the top nut by hand.

6. Repeat steps2-5 for the other three leveling

feet if necessary.

7. Tighten all four bottom nuts using a 9/16

inch wrench.

Attaching Trim Caps

1. Find the left and right trim caps.

2. There are two plastic stubs on the back of

each trim cap.

3. These stubs will snap into matching holes at

the front corners of the saw.

4. Snap the left and right trim caps into place.

Trim Cap

•i

Location and Function of Controls i,111111

Fig. 24 -Radial Saw Controls

On/Off Switch

The on/off switch turns the power to the saw

on and off.

To turn the saw on, put the yellow key into

the red switch and then pull the switch to the

right. To turn the saw off, push the red switch

to the left. Remove the yellow key. from the

red switch whenever the saw is turned off, and

keep it out of the reach and sight of children.

(Figure 25)

WARNING: The saw can start ac-

cidentally or be used by children and

others when the yellow key is left in the

red switch. Always remove the yellow

key when the saw is off, and keep it out

of the reach and sight of children.

act WARNING: The saw will start im-

mediately when the power comes back

on after a blackout if the red switch is

left on. Always turn the switch off and

remove the yellow key when the power

goes off for any reason.

Miter Lock

The miter lock is used to hold the radial arm

at various angles to the fence.

To unlock the miter lock, pull the lock to the

right. (Figure 26)

Fig. 25 -Oo/Off Switch 13

Bevel Lock

The bevel lock is used to hold the blade at

various angles to the table. To unlock the

bevel lock, move tile lock to the right. Always

hold the motor when you unlock the bevel

lock. (Figure 28)

_lb CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured by the arbor shaft or blade.

Hold the motor when you unlock the

bevel lock.

Fig. 26 -Miter Lock -Unlocked

To lock the miter lock, push the lock to the

left. (Figure 27)

To lock the bevel lock, move the lock to the

left. (Figure 29)

Fig. 27 - Miter Lock -Locked

There are three pre-set miter angles at 45 °,

0°, and -45 '1. You will feel the radial arm

snap into position at these miter angles. To

unlock the arm when it is in one of these posi-

tions, pull the miter lock all the way to the

right and n_ove the arm as you hold the lock

in this position.

Fig. 29 - Bevel Lock -Locked

There are five pro-set bevel angles at -90 °,

-45 °, 0°. 45 °, and 90 °. To unlock the bevel

lock when tile blade is at one of these angles,

move the bevel lock all the way to the right

and turn the motor while holding the lock in

this position.

Swivel Lock

The swivel lock is used to hold the blade in

the cros,_cut, in-rip, or out-rip positions, and

to position the blade for molding or edging.

To unlock the swivel lock, stand facing the

saw handle and pull the swivel toc/," toward

you, (Figure 30)

swivH lock when the motor is inion'€ of ihese

positions, stand fiicing the saw l_smUtb, poill :

the swivel lock :ill the way towar_yL, u, flTnLT

turn the motor as you hold the lock in this

position.

Rip Lock

The rip lock is used to hold the motor and

blade at a fixed position along the radial arm.

It is used during ripp{ng to hold the blade a

desired distance from the fence while the

workpiece is fed through. It is used before

and after each crosscut to keep the blade

from moving forward on its own.

To unlock the rip lock, pull the handle toward

the front of the arm. (Figure 32)

Fig. "70 -Swivel Lock -Unlocked

To lock the swivel lock, stand tacing the saw

handle and push the swivel lock away from

you. (Figure 3 1)

Fig, 32 -Rip Lock -Unlocked

To lock the tip lock, push the handle toward

the rear of the arm. (Figure 33)

Fsg 33- /Tip Lock Locked

Handwheel

The handwheel controls the height of the

radial arm.

To raise the radial arm, turn the handwheel

clockwise. To lower the radial arm, turn the

handwheel counterclockwise. (Figure 34)

Fig. 34 -Handwheel

One complete turn of the handwheel moves

the arm 1/16 inch.

The handle can be folded in by squeezing the red

plastic "ears" with your thumb and index finger

while pushing the handle in.

All Controls

Always lock the miter, swivel and bevel locks

before making a cut on your radial arm saw.

When ripping, the rip lock must also be lock-

ed. When crosscutting, the rip lock should be

locked before and after each cut, when the

saw is in the rearmost position.

Alignment of the Blade

ALIGNMENT OF THE BLADE IS THE

MOST IMPORTANT STEP IN

ASSEMBLING YOUR RADIAL ARM

SAW.

The blade of your radial arm saw must be

aligned properly for two reasons: to make

cuts accurate, and to prevent binding of the

blade and workpiece which can cause jams or

thrown workpieces.

These adjustments must be done in order,

before using your saw for the first time. If

they are not done in order the saw will not

cut accurately. If you miss an adjustment, you

must go back to the adjustment you missed

and repeat all steps from that point on.

1. Use a 3/16 hex "'L'" wrench to loosen the

four screws in the front of the column support.

(Figure 35)

Four Socket

,Head Screws

These adjustments are like fine tuning a

piece of equipment. Often a series of steps

must be repeated more than once in order to

get the adjustment just right.

,WARNING: Plugging the saw in

during alignment can result in electrical

shock or your fingers, hand, or arm

being cut off from blade contact. Do not

plug in the saw at any time during align-

ment. The saw should only be plugged

in when it is to be used.

Fig. 35

2. Raise and lower the radial arm by turning

the handwhee! a few turns in each direction.

tt should take about the same amount of ef-

fort to lower the arm as to raise it.

3. If movement seems smooth and the

column does not rock back and forth, go to

the next section, or

If movement seems difficult, loosen the four

bolts in the back of the column slightly

(Figure 36) and go back to step 2, or

Make sure that the blade and blade guard are

removed from the arbor shaft before begin-

ning to align your saw. Do not install the

blade or blade guard until you are instructed

to do so.

Adjusting Elevation

The goal or" this adjustment is to make up-

ward and downward movement of the radial

arm smooth and firm. If the column that sup-

ports the arm is too tight it will be difficult to

move the ar_ up and down and to get ac-

curate deplh of cut. If the column is loose the

blade may "walk" on the workpiece and stall

the motor, or cause a heel in bevel and com-

pound cuts.

If column rocks back and forth, tighten the

four bolts in the back of the column slightly

(Figure 36) and go back to step 2.

o o I "

Fig. 36

Leveling Table Supports

1. Raise the radial arm until the bottom of

the motor is about 2-1/2 inches above the

saw.

2. Locate four hex head bolts and put a flat

washer on each.

3. Attach atable support to each side of the

saw using the four hex head bolts and flat

washers. (Figure 37) Put the bolts through the

center of the enlarged holes in the table sup-

ports so that the supports may slide up or

down as needed.

Table Support

_ Screws

Here

__F I£t Washer

Hex Head Bolt

Lockwasher

Nut Table Support

Fig. 37

Mount Support

Using These Holes

Front

©©

4. Put a lockwashcr and hex nut on each bolt

and hand-tighten.

5. Unlock the bevel lock to release the motor.

Hold onto the motor as you do this.

a't CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the arbor shaft hits you. Hold

the motor when you unlock the bevel

lock.

6. Turn the motor until the arbor shaft is

pointing straight down toward the saw.

(Figure 39)

Arbor Wrench

Rear Bolt

Fig. 39

7. Lock the bevel lock to hold the motor in this

position.

8. Unlock the miter lock and move the arm to

the left as far as it will go (about 50 ° miter).

9. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor until

the arbor shaft is over the left table support.

(Figure 39)

10. Mark the point on the table support under

the center of the arbor shaft.

11. Place the arbor wrench over this point and

lower the arm until the arbor shaft is just touch-

ing the wrench. The wrench should slide back

and forth with slight contact. (Figure 39)

12. Tighten the rear bolt under this point using

a 1/2 inch wrench.

13. Move the arm and motor until the arbor

shaft is over the front bolt on the left table sup-

port. Do not change the elevation of the arm as

you move from point to point. (Figure 40)

Fro Bolt

Table Support

Rear Bolt

Fig. 40

14. Mark the point on the ruble support un-

der the center of the arbor shaft. (Figure 40)

15. Place the arbor wrench over this point.

(Figure 41)

16. Slide the front end of the table support

up or down until the handle end of the arbor

wrench just fits between this point and the

arbor shaj?+ The wrench should slide back

and forth with slight contact.

17. Tighten the bolt under this point using a

1/2 inch wrench.

18. Repeat steps 13-17 with the arbor shaft

over the front and rear bolts on the right table

support. Slide the rear end of the table sup-

port up or down when the arbor shaft is over

the rear bolt (see step 16).

19. Move the arbor shaft over all four points

again.

20. Place the arbor wrench over each point and

make sure that the arbor shaft just touches the

wrench. The wrench should slide back and forth

with slight contact.

If the arbor wrench will not fit between the

arbor shaft and the table support _t any point

repeat steps 8-21 until the table suppofls"are

level, or

If there is a gap between the arbor wrench

and the arbor shaft at any point, repeat steps

8-21 until the table supports are level.

L._[._/4J _ Front Bolt

Rear Bolt \

Table Support

Fig. 41

21. If the arbor shaft just touches the arbor

wrench at each point, go to the next section,

Mounting the Front Table

1. Make sure that the front table is upside

down.

2. Place atee nut over the leveling hole and

hammer it into place. (Figure 42)

Tee NL,t ---.-._,_ //_7_...

Leveling Hole ___i -_" _j_- "_o

Fig. 42

Bolt

Head Screw

Loc

Hex Nut Mounting Holes

;rew

Leveling Hole

Fig. 46

Fig. 43 -Nut Tee

5. Start the cup point set screw through the lev-

eling hole. Do not tighten. (Figures 46 & 47)

3. Slide a U-ctip onto the center channel of the

saw as shown. (Figure 44)

U Clip

Fig. 47 - Cup Point Set Screw

6. Put a washer in each of the mounting holes.

(Figures 46 & 47)

Fig. 48 -Washer for Mounting Holes

Fig. 44

Fig. 45- U Clip

4. Place the front table on the saw so that the

mounting holes in the table line up with holes

in the table supports and center channel of

saw. (Figure 46)

7. Start a pan head machine screw through the

center mounting hole. Do not tighten. (Figures

46 & 49)

Fig. 49- Pan Head Machine Screw

8. Install the pan head bolts through the other

four mounting holes. Put a lockwasher and

hex nut on each bolt and tighten using a

Phillips screwdriver. (Figures 46 & 50)

13. If there is a gap larger than 1_3_. lge]_,

back to step 1 I and repeat, or

If there is a gap less than 1/32 inch, or no gap

at all, go to the next section.

Fig. 50 -Pan Head Bolt

9. Lay tile edge of the rear table across the

center of the front table, and check to see if

there is a gap between the two. (Figure 50)

Fig. 5!

10. If there is a gap larger than 1/32 inch, go

to step 11, or

If there is a gap less than 1/32 inch, or no gap

at all, tighten the leveling screw and the cen-

ter mounting screw. Do not overtighten. Then

go to step 12.

I 1. If the gap is at the center of the table,

tighten the leveling screw until the gap is

gone. Then tighten the center mounting screw

and go to step 12, or

If the gap is at the sides of the table, tighten

tile center mounting screw until the gap is

gone. Then tighten the leveling screw and go

to step 12.

12. Lay the edge of the recu" tabh" across the

center or thc.fi'ont table and check again for

gaps.

Squaring Crosscut Travel

The blade must travel perpendicular to the

fence along the radial arm in order for cross-

cuts to be accurate. If the radial arm is not

perpendicular to the fence, there will be a

slight miter angle in all crosscuts.

_1_ WARNING" Plugging in the saw dur-

ing alignment can result in your fingers,

hands, or arm being cut off from blade

contact. Do not plug in the saw at any

time during alignment. The saw should

only be plugged in when it is to be used.

1. Place the radial arm in the 0 ° miter

position and lock the miter lock.

2. Raise the radial arm about 2 inches above

the front table.

3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor

so that the arbor is perpendicular to the table.

(Figure 52).

Fig. 52

4. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

until the motor arbor is over the front table.

5. Lock the rip lock, miter lock and bevel

lock.

6. Lower the radial arm until the motor arbor

is slightly above the front table.

7. Lay a framing square on the front table with

the long edge along the back of the table and

the short edge alongside the motor arbor.

(Figure 53)

8. Move the framing square toward the motor

arbor until the arbor and square touch each

other. (Figure 53)

9. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

arbor back and forth along the radial arm as

shown by the arrows. Do not move the

framing square.

10. If the motor arbor just touches the square

at all points, no change is needed. Go to step

14, or

If the motor arbor moves away from the

square or tries to "walk" on top of it, go to

step 11. (Figure 53)

_ Framing "

_-- Square

Fig. 53 .........

11. Use a 3/16" hex "'L'" wrench to loosen the

tbur screws in the front of the column support

slightly, if you have not already done so in the

Adjusting Elevation section. (Figure 54)

Four Socket

Head Screws

Fig. 54

12. Use the top two screws to move the radial

arm into line:

If the motor arbor moved away from the

square, tighten the top right screw to move the

arm to the left. Then tighten the top left screw

to meet the column. Go to step 13, or

If the motor arbor tried to "walk" on the

square, tighten the top left screw to move the

arm to the right. Then tighten the top right

screw to meet the column. Go to step 13.

13. Move the motor back and forth along the

radial arm. Repeat step 12 until the motor

arbor just touches the square at all points.

Then go to step 14.

14. Tighten the bottom screws in the front of

the column support, switching from right to

left several times so that you do not force the

radial arm out of line. Do not overtighten or

it will be difficult to raise and lower the radial

arm.

15. Raise and lower the radial arm. If this is

difficult, loosen the four screws in the front of

the column support slightly and try again.

Loosen all of these screws the same amount so

that you do not force the radial arm out of

line.

16. Repeat step 15 until movement of the

radial arm is smooth but firm. Then go to step

17.

17.Lay a framing squareon thefront table

with the long edge along the back of the table

and the short edge alongside the motor arbor,

as before.

18. Move the framing square toward the

motor arbor until the arbor and square touch.

19. Move the motor arbor back and forth

along the radial arm. Do not move the square.

20. If the motor arbor just touches the edge of

the square at all points, go to step 21, or

If the motor arbor moves away from the edge

of the square or tries to "walk" on top of it, go

back to step 12 and repeat.

21. Set miter indicator on 0° position as

shown. (Figure 55)

22. Lock the rip lock, put the spacer, fence

and rear table back in place, lock the table

clamp, and go to the next section.

i/<J J

Fig. 55

Positioning Rear Table Boards

and Fence

1. Position the ripfence next to the front table

as shown.

Mounting Table ClamPs

The following parts are used in mounting the

table clamps:

A Thumbscrews ..................... 2

B Square Nuts ...................... 2

CCup Washer ...................... 2

DClamp Bracket ................... 2

1. Drop square nut in slot at top of clamp

bracket.

2. Turn thumbscrew clockwise until the point

comes approximately 1/2" out other end.

3. Tilt clamp bracket forward and snap in

place in rectangular shaped hole at back of

table support. (Figure 57)

4. Attach cup washer by holding washer

against rear table. Turn thumbscrew clockwise

until it snaps into small hole in cup washer.

Fig. 57

2. Next drop in the table spacer and then the

rear table.

Rear Table

Table Spacer/Rip Fence Front Table

c t ,l,q/ /j

5. Repeat steps I through 4 with the other table

clamp.

Squaring Blade to Table

for Crosscutting

These steps are necessary so that your blade

will be perpendicular to the table and cuts

will be accurate. If this is not done correctly,

your cuts will have a slight bevel angle.

Fig. 56 23

1. Place the radial arm in the 0 ° miter

position and lock the miter lock.

2. Place the blade on the arborshaft with a

blade collaron each side. make sure that the

directional arrow is on the outside of the

blade, and the teeth are pointing down at the

front side of the blade. (Figure 58)

¢,

Fig.58

3. Place the arbor nut on the arbor shaft and

use the arbor wrenches to tighten. The arbor

shaft has left-handed threads, so you will

have to turn the nut counterclockwise to

tighten. Do not overtighten.

'_ CAUTION: Overtightening the arbor

nuts may cause the blade collars to

warp and the blade to wobble while cut-

ting. Use the arbor wrenches to tighten

the arbor nuts but do not overtighten.

4. Lock the table clamps and rip lock.

5. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade. Make sure that the square is against the

blade surface and not the set of a tooth.

6. Turn the blade with your hand several times

and check to see if the square is flush with the

blade.

7. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure 60)

Go to the next section, or

Ifthere is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 60), go to step

8. Note: Saw blades are manufactured to dif-

ferent specifications. Therefore a small gap is

permissible on some brands.

Right

ISquare j_

F- 1

Table

Wrong Wrong

Square Il_tv1_: Square

FL____ _L'I __L

Table Table

Fig. 60

8. Unlock the bevel lock, but do not pull the

index pin.

9. Loosen the four screws behind the yoke

using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench. (Figure 61)

Framing i

Square

Fig. 59 24

4 Socket

_.J @j_Setscrews_.

Fig. 61

10. Hold the square in place and move the

motor slowly until the square is flush with the

blade.

11. Hold the motor tightly and lock the bevel

lock. Do not let the motor move out of place.

12. Check the square to make sure that it is

still flush with the blade.

13. Tighten the four screws behind the yoke.

14. Raise the radial arm until the blade is I-

1/2 inches above the table.

15. Unlock the bevel lock and move the motor

to the 45 ° bevel position. (Figure 62)

_1= CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly, You can be cut

or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

Fig. 62

16. Move the motor back to the 0 °bevel

position and lock the bevel lock.

17. Lowel the radial arm until the blade is just

above the table.

18. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade as before. Make sure the square is

against the surface of the blade and not the set

of a tooth.

19. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

w{th the !,lade.

20. if the ,quare is {lush with the Blade after

each iota!ion, go to Step 21. or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation, go back to step8 and

repeat.

21. Install bevel scale indicator by inserting one

end into the opening in the yoke. Slide the

indicator to one side and push until it snaps in

place. Tabs are located on the outside of the

opening. Adjust indicator by sliding red line to

0°position. (Figure 63)

'.v .... i/

Fig. 83

Squaring Blade to Fence

These steps are done so that your blade will

be perpendicular to the fence. This will help

reduce the risk of kickback when ripping, and

splintering of the workpiece and burning of

tile kerf when ripping and crosscutting.

_ Framing Square/,_/

Fig. 64- Squaring Blade to Fence

1. Put the radial arm in the 0 ° miter position

with the blade just in front of the fence.

(Figure 64)

2. Ix_ck the rid lock.

3. Place the framing square with the long edge

against both the fence and the table, and the

short edge against the blade just above the

arbor shaft. Make sure that the edge of the

square is on the blade and not on the set of a

tooth. (Figure 64)

4. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure 65)

Go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation, go to step 6.

(Figure 65)

Fence

Fence Fence

Square _ 3 _] •

Wrong l_ Wrong

Fig. 65

6. Unlock the swivel lock.

7. Loosen the four screws under the yoke using

a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench and pliers if neces-

sary. (Figure 66)

_,WARNING: The hex-k wrench may

break when used with pliers to loosen

screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in

the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-

gles when using a hex-L wrench with

pliers.

Fig. 66

8. Hold the square in place and turn the

motor until the square is flush with the blade.

9. Hold the saw handle tightly and lock the

swivel lock.

10. Check the square to make sure it is still

flush with the blade.

11. Tighten the four screws under theyoke using

a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench.

12. Place the framing square with the long

edge against both the fence and the table, and

the short edge against the blade just above

the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the

edge of the square is on the blade and not on

the set of a tooth.

13. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

14. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping

1. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor to

the out-rip position with the motor between

the blade and fence. (Figure 67)

Fig. 67 -Out-Rip Position

2. Lock swivel lock and rip lock.

3. Place the long edge of the framing square on

the table and the short edge against the blade

alongside the arbor shaft. Make sure the

square is against the surface of the blade and

not on the set of a tooth. (Figure 68)

4. Turn the blade with your hand Se_t

times and check to see if the squ_tr_lflt

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation (Figure 69) to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 69), go to

step 6.

I Right,

Table Fence

Wrong Wrong

-_n t I

Table ce Table Fence

Fig. 69

6. Loosen the hex nut on the rear carriage

bearing. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the

bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the nut.

(Figure 70)

Fig. 70

lift. 68

7. Hold the square in place and use the 9/16

inch wrench to turn the boltuntil the square

is flush with the blade.

8. Hold the bolt firmly, and retighten the hex

nut using a 1/2 inch wrench.

9. Turn the blade several times and check to

see if the square is still flush with the blade.

10. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

11. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

as far back as it will go.

12. Pinch the front carriage bearing with your

fingers as tightly as possible while you pull the

motor forward with the other hand. Try to

keep the carriage bearing from turning.

(Figure 71)

Fig. 71

13. Move the motor as far forward as it will go.

14. Pinch the rear carriage bearing with your

fingers as tightly as possible while you puU the

motor toward the rear with the other hand. Try to

keep the carriage bearing from turning.

15. ff you can keep either of the carriage

bearings from turning while the motor moves

along the radial arm, go to step 16, or

If you cannot keep the carriage bearings from

turning while the motor moves, go to step 22.

16. Wipe the V-shaped groove in each carriage

bearing, and the track they ride on, with a cloth

to remove sawdust and other debris. Oil if

necessary.

17. Loosen the hex nut on the carriage bearing

that was loose. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold

the bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the nut.

18. Turn the bolt using a 9/16 inch wrench until

the looseness is gone.

19. Hold the bolt firmly with the 9/16 inch

wrench and tighten the hex nut using a 1/2 inch

wrench. Do not overtighten.

20. Make sure bearings are adjusted evenly. To

do this, check the position of the arrow on the

head of the screw. (Fig. 71A)

Both Arrows Point Up

OKBoth Arrows Point

One Arrow Points Up

One Arrow Points Down

Fig 71A

21. Repeat steps 11 - 15 to make sure that the

carriage bearings are not still loose.

22. Place the long edge of the framing square on

the table and the short edge against the blade just

above the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure the

square is against the surface of the blade and not

on the set of a tooth.

23. Turn the blade w'ith your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

24. I1"the square is flush with the blade, go to

the next. ccUon, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

table under the blade and the short ed_e_i_

sticking up in the air. Make sure that tl_!6fig

edge is perpendicular to the fence. (Fighre 74)

Saw

Handle

Making Blade Parallel to

Table

These steps.are done to help prevent the

workpiece from being thrown or damaged

when the saw is used for edging. Fig. 74

6. Lower the radial arm until the blade just

rests on the edge of the framing square.

Make sure that the square is on the blade

and not on the set of a tooth.

1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position.

2. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2

inches above the front table.

3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor

so that the blade is parallel to the table. (Figure

/_)

_1_ CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

4. Lock the bc'v_[" lock, rip lock and _wivel l<)ck.

5. Place the corner of d_e framing square

against lh_Libtzce so that the long edge is on the

7. Turn the blade with },our hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

8. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation (Figure 75) go to step 18, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 75) go to

step 9.

Right

Fence

]

Table

Wrong Wrong

Square Square

i'/i L ,i .Motorc l,_Motor!c-)

Fenc ' [" " i _

,- Fence ,

Table Table

Fig 75

9. Unlock the bevel lock.

10. Loosen the two screws on the back of the

motor support using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench

and pliers if necessary. (Figure 76)

WARNING: The hex-L wrench may

break when used with pliers to loosen

screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in

the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-

gles when using a hex-L wrench with

pliers.

Saw

Handle

14. Tighten the two screws on the back of the

motor support.

15. Place the corner of the framing square

against the fence so that the long edge is on

the table under the blade and the short edge

is sticking up in the air, as before. Make sure

that the long edge is perpendicular to the

fence.

16. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

17. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to step 18, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 9 and repeat.

Motor Support

Capscrews

Fig. 76

11. Hold the square in place, and lift or lower

the bottom side of the motor support until the

square is flush with the blade.

12. Hold the motor firmly and lock the bevel

lock.

13. Check the square to make sure that it is

still flush with the blade.

Installing Guard /Setting

Spreader

The blade guard and the spreader are very

important safety features of your saw. The

guard covers a large part of the blade and

reduces the risk of amputation. The spreader

rides in the kerf of the cut wood during rip-

ping, and helps keep the two sides from

pinching tile blade and causing a kickback.

dUkWARNINL_: Fingers, hand, or arm

can be cut off from blade contact if the

blade guard is not used properly. Al-

ways put the blade guard on your saw

and adjust it correctly.

/'t

_t_ WARNING" Kickback can occur it

the spreader is not in line with the

blade. You can be injured or killed. Al-

ways adjust the spreader and make sure

that it is directly in line with the blade.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw until it no

longer touches the metalplate. (Figure 77)

3. Make sure that the lower edg_ _{_e _.@qd

is parallel to the table. (Figure "_._L

4. Tighten the guard clamp screw.

5. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor

to the in-rip position, with the blade between

the motor and the fence. (Figure 79)

Guard (:lamp Screw

Fig.77

Metal Plate

2. Place the guard over the blade. You will feel

the guard fall into place when the ridge on the

inside of the guard slides into the slot on the

motor. (Figure 78)

Fig. 78

Fig. 79 -In-Rip Position

6. Lock the swive! lock.

7. Lower the radial arm until the blade is just

above the table.

8. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

back until the blade touches the fence.

9. Lock the rip lock.

10. Loosen the wing screw that holds the

spreader in place.

11. Lower the spreader and antikickbackpawls

until the spreader is against the fence, and the

pawls on one side of the spreader are on top of

the fence. (Figure 80)

Fence_

Table

)reader

Fig. 80

12. If the spreader and blade both rest against

the fence, no adjustment is needed. (Figure

81-A) Go to step 17, or

A - Right

Pawl ----_ _

Fence ---_F ,_ Spreader

Saw Blade

If the spreader is in front of the fence but not

touching it (Figure 81-B), go to step 13, or

If the spreader hits the top of the fence

(Figure 81-C), go to step 13.

13. Loosen both nuts on the spreader using a

1/2 inch wrench.

14. Slide the spreader with your hand until it

is against the fence directly behind the blade.

15. Tighten both nuts using a 1/2 inch

wrench. Do not move the spreader as you

tighten these nuts.

16. Check the blade and spreader again to

make sure that they are both against the

fence. If not, go back to step 13 and repeat.

17. Once the blade and spreader are in line,

raise the spreader up to the guard and tighten

the wing screw to hold it in place.

18. Unlock the rip lock.

19. Pull the motor forward so that the blade is

away from the fence and lock the @ lock.

20. Unlock the swivel lock.

21. Turn the motor to the crosscut positon

with the blade and arm perpendicular to the

fence.

22. Lock the swivel lock.

B - Wrong

" [

Pawl ----_ _'

[ _l_Spreader

Fence -----/ _I_

Table _ Saw Blade

Fig. 81- A,B, C

Fence

Table

C - Wrong

)reader

Saw Blade

Installing and Adjusting Rip Scale Indica-

tors

NOTE: The rip scales indicators are intended

to be used for quick settings. Adjustments

will be necessary for blades of different thick-

nesses. For greater accuracy take direct mea-

surements between blade and fence with ruler

or measuring tape.

1. Locate rip scale indicators in a loose parts

bag and slide indicators onto mounting brack-

ets.

2. Unlock the swivel lock and move the

blade into the OUT-RIP position. Lock the

swivel lock.

---! _-2 Inches

3. Measures 2" from rip lence,tdmear.e._

tooth on the blade and lock rip lock handle]

4. Adjust "out rip" scale indicator by slid-

ing until indicator line reads 2 inches on the

upper of the two "out rip" scales as illus-

trated. Out rip scales are located on left side

of arm.

5. Unlock rip lock and move blade away

from fence. Unlock the swivel lock and rotate

the motor to the IN-RIP position. Lock the

swivel lock. Push the motor until the blade

rests against the fence.

6. Adjust "in-rip" scale indicator (located

on right side of arm) by sliding until indicator

line reads "0" inches.

Fig. 82 -Out-Rip Saw Position (Infeed End)

Electrical Connections

Motor Specifications

The AC motor used in this saw is acapacitor-

start, non-reversible type having the following

specifications: 19711 19715

Rated H.R ................ 1.5 1.5

Maximum Developed H.R .. 2.5 2.75

Voltage ................... 120 120/240

Amperes .................. 11.0 12/6

Hertz (cycles) .............. 60 60

Phase .................... Single Single

RPM ..................... 3450 3450

Rotation of Arbor Shaft .... Clock- Clock-

wise wise

Power Supply

t'x

_IL WARNING: Your saw is wired at

the factory for 120V operation. Connect

to a 120V, 15-AMP, branch circuit and

use a 15-AMP, time delay fuse or circuit

breaker. Failure to connect in this way

can result in injury from shock or fire.

A'k

4Ilk WARNING: To avoid shock or fire, if

power cord is worn, cut, or damaged in

any way have it replaced immediately.

Your unit is wired for 120V and it has a plug

that looks like the one shown below.

(Figure 83)

3-Prong Plug

Grounding Prong

Properly

Grounded

Outlet

Fig 83 -Plug for Less Than 150V

Your saw must be properly grounded. Not all

outlets are properly grounded. If you are not

sure that your outlet is properly grounded,

have it checked by a qualified electrician.

_lb WARNING: If not properly

grounded this power tool can cause

electrical shock, particularly when used

in damp locations.

ik _

41LWARNINL_: If an electrical shock oc-

curs, your reaction to the shock may

bring your hands into contact with the

blade.

This power tool is equipped with a 3-

conductor cord and grounding type plug listed

by Underwriters' I,aboratories. The ground

conductor has a green jacket and is attached

to the tool housing at one end and to the

ground prong in the attachment plug at the

other end.

This plug requires amating 3-conductor

grounded type outlet as shown above. If you

have an outlet that is of the two prong type, it

is recommended that you have a qualified

electrician replace the it with a properly

grounded three prong outlet.

/k WARNING: To maintain proper

tool grounding, whenever the outlet you

are planning to use for this power tool

is of the two prong type do not remove

or alter the grounding prong in any man-

ner.

An adapter is available for connecting plug to

2-prong receptacles. The green grounding lead

extending from the adapter must be connected

to a permanent ground such as to a properly

grounded outlet box. (Figure 84)

Grounding Lug

/_ Make Sure This ls

3 Pron _ Plu n _) _ I _-- H Connected To A

- _ _ _i _- ,

•--_ !(__) [1 Known Ground

,_"_ _ Receptacle

Adapter

Extension Cord

The use of any extension cord wilI _at_N

some loss of power. Use the following._a.b.Te

to determine the minimum wire size

(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3- wire ex-

tension cords which have 3-prong grounding

type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which ac-

cept the tool's plug.

Length of

Conductor

Wire sizes Required

(American Wire Gage No.)

120V Lines

0 - 25 feet No. 16

26 - 50 feet No. 14

51 - !00 feet No. 12

For circuits that are farther away from electri-

cal circuit box, the wire size must be in-

creased proportionately in order to deliver

ample voltage to the saw motor.

Fig. 84 -Adapter for 2-Prong Receptacles

_i, WARNING: The adapter illustrated

is for use only if you already have a

properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.

Crosscutting

Crosscutting is used to cut a workpiece to

length. The workpiece is held against the

fence. The saw blade is pulled through the

workpiece. Cuts are usually made across the

grain of the workpiece.

Types of Crosscuts

The basic types of crosscuts are shown below.

Notice the hand and body position in each.

Fig. 85 -Straight Crosscut

4 ¸

Fig. 87 -Bevel Crosscut

Fig. 88- Compound Crosscut

Miter

Straight

Fig 89 _Basic Crosscuts

Bevel

Compound

Fig. 86- Mter Crosscut

Safety Information for

Crosscutting

Read and follow the safety information below

before making any type of crosscut.

_I= WARNING

1. Set guard and anti-kickback pawls to

proper height to serve as a partial barrier.

2. The saw blade can throw the

workpiece over the fence if the blade is

pushed backwards into workpiece.You

or others can be hit and injured by the

thrown workpiece. Start a crosscut with

the blade in its rearmost position.

3. If the blade is pulled through the

workpiece beyond the middle of the

blade, it can:

• pick up and throw the cut-off sec-

tion of the workpiece which could

hit and injure you or others in the

area, or;

•lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and pull your

hand into the blade as the blade

is returned. Pull the saw blade

through the workpiece to the dis-

tance shown below.

4. Fingers or hand can slip intQ tbe:ga w _'

blade as you make a crosscut.iFingerg:,:

hand or arm can be cut off. Keep the _

hand holding the workpiece at least 8 in-

ches to the side of the workpiece, out of

the path of the saw blade. Keep hand

holding the workpiece in view at all

times.

5. The blade can come completely off

table edge beyond the 30 ° left miter

position. Fingers, hands, arms or legs

can be cut off. Use the right miter posi-

tion whenever possible to make miter

crosscuts.

6. The blade continues to turn for about

12 seconds after the saw is turned

off. Wait for the blade to stop before

reaching for the workpiece.

7. If length stops are used on the cut-off

end of workpiece, the cut-off end can

be thrown by the blade. The workpiece

could hit and injure you or others in the

area. Do not use a length stop on the

cut-off end of the workpiece. Use a

length stop only on the end of the

workpiece which is held down.

8. Holding on to or touching the cut off

end of the workpiece while the saw

blade is still turning can cause the

workpiece to pinch the blade. The

workpiece can be thrown and hit and in-

jure you or others in the area. Do not

touch, hold on to, push, or grab the cut-

off piece of the workpiece while the

power is on or the saw blade is turning.

9. The saw can throw the workpiece,

workpiece chips or pieces of the blade

violently. You can be blinded. Wear

safety goggles.

Fig. 90 -Blade Distance to Complete Crosscut 37

10. The workpiece cannot be controlled

or held stable enough to do free hand

cutting. The workpiece can be thrown or

slip and pull fingers and hand into the

saw blade. Fingers or hand can be cut

off. Set the radial arm to the desired

cutting angle. Keep workpiece flat on

table and solidly against the fence.

Blade Guard, Anti-Kickback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader are designed to reduce or eliminate

the risk of injury from contact with the upper

half of the blade and the leading edge of the

blade when:

11. Saw parts loosen and wear with

use. You or others can be injured. Keep

all parts tight and in working order.

•the guard is in the horizontal position

and;

12. The fence must be of at least equal

height to the workpiece or else the

workpiece can be lifted or thrown and hit

and injure you or others in the area. See

Cutting Accessories section for instruc-

tions to make a fence.

• the pawls and spreader are set to

clear the top of the fence and

workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

The Blade Guard:

13. The blade will try to pull itself

through the workpiece. Be prepared to

hold the saw handle back to keep the

saw blade from coming toward you.

14. Lock rip lock after every crosscut, or

else the blade will suddenly come

toward you when you lower it to make a

crosscut.

• provides protection from contact with

the upper half of the blade;

• helps keep the workpiece from jam-

ming in the guard and;

• helps catch or deflect workpiece chips

or pieces of the blade.

15. Whenever the blade is turning, keep

one hand on the saw handle to keep the

saw blade from coming toward you.

16. Cutting more than one workpiece at

a time can cause you to lose control of

the workpieces, which can be thrown

and hit and injure you or others in the

area. Cut only one workpiece at a time.

Do not stack or lay workpieces edge to

edge.

The Anti-kickback Bar, Pawls and Spreader:

•serve as a partial barrier to provide

protection from contact with the lead-

ing edge of the blade.

AWARNING: To reduce the risk of

contact with the upper half of the blade

and keep the workpiece from jamming

in the guard, set the blade guard in the

horizontal position. Fig. 94.

Crosscutting Checklist

Use the following checkUst at the beginning

of each new cutting period to reduce the risk

of an accident.

Crosscut Checklist

Yellow key removed from red switch.

Saw unplugged and switch off.

No play in the carriage bearings, motor

support or column. See Alignment of the

Blade section for instructions.

Arm slopes to the rear and table level side

to side.

Arbor nut snug.

Blade sharp.

Fence secure, solid (knot free) and in goo_

condition.

Fence in correct table position.

Workpiece does not extend above the top

of the fence.

All saw parts are tight and working.

Saw blade in desired crosscut position and

behind the fence.

Blade guard horizontal.

Anti-kickback pawls and spreader set to

clear top of fence and or workpiece by

about 1,:8 inch.

Swivel, rip, miter, bevel and table locks

locked.

Read and follow instructions for the type

of crosscut you want to do.

Cutting Table and Eence

Kerfs

You will need to cut a new table kerf (shal-

low cut) and fence kerf (slot left in the fence

from sawing through it with the blade), each

time a new cutting angle is used. The table

kerf lets the blade cut all the way through a

work_iece.

Fig. 91 -Table and Fence Kerfs

Note: To extend the life of your table top,

you can make an additional table top. See

Helpful tlints section.

Making Table and Fence Kerfs for Crosscut-

ting

To make a crosscut kerf in your table and

fence:

1. Put your fence between the front table and

spacer board. Lock the table locks.

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be-

hind the fence.

3. Lock rip lock.

£t

AWARNING: The saw blade will sud-

denly come toward you when lowered

into the table if the rip lock is unlocked.

Fingers and hand can be cut off. Lock

the rip lock before and after each

crosscut.

Fig. 92 -Locked Position for Rip Lock

4, Lower the radial arm until the blade al-

most touches the table top.

5. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet. Check

Electrical Connections section of manual if

you are not sure the outlet is grounded.

6. Wear safety goggles labeled ANSI Z87.1

on the package.

£t

AI& WARNING: The saw can throw the

workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces of

the blade violently. You can be

blinded. Wear safety goggles.

can be blinded.

Wear safety

goggles.

Fig 93 -Safety Goggles Safety Sign

7. Insert yellow key' into the red switch.

8. Grasp saw handle and hold your forearm

in line with the saw handle as shown below.

Fig. 94 -Crosscut Blade Guard and Body Position

£k

II&WARNING: Saw blade can sudden-

ly come toward you when turned on.

Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off.

Keep one hand on the saw handle at all

times.

9. Turn the saw on.

10. lower the saw arm slowly until the blade

touches the table.

11. Turn the handwheel another 1/2 turn

more. This will let you make a 1/32 to 1/16

inch kerf in the table.

12. Unlock rip lock.

13. Pull the saw blade forward through the

fence and along the table as far as it will go.

14. Return the saw blade to its rearmost posi-

tion behind the fence.

15. Turn the saw off, but do not let go of the

saw handle.

16. Wait for blade to stop turning.

17. Ix)ck rip lock.

1,8. Remove yellow key from red switch.

Making Crosscuts

The following section contains safety informa-

tion and instructions for making crosscuts.

Anyone who uses your saw should read and

follow these steps.

i'k WARNING: The blade guard must be

horizontal to provide protection from

contact with the upper half of the blade

and avoid the workpiece being jammed in

the blade. Set the blade guard in the

horizontal position. Fig. 94.

_1= DANGER: The anti-kickback pawls

serve as a barrier for the leading edge

or the blade. Set the anti-kickback

pawls to clear the top of the fence and

workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

AWARNING: The fence must be at

least equal height or higher than the

workpiece you are going to cut or else

the workpiece can be thrown and injure

you or others in the area. Install a fence

of at least equal height to the workpiece.

1. Put your fence in position A as shown and

lock the table locks.

B C A

I I I

[

Fig. 95 -Fence Position for Crosscut

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be-

hind the fence.

4. Adjust the height of the anti-kickb{acg

pawls to clear top of fence and workpTgc'_'fy-

about 1/8 inch. The pawls and spreader help

provide protection from the leading edge of

blade.

5. Plug saw into grounded outlet.

6. Put on safety goggles.

7. Place the workpiece against the fence.

8. Unlock rip lock.

9. Grasp the saw handle while holding your

forearm in a straight line with the saw handle.

a'k _

&&WARNINL_: The saw blade tries to

pull itself through the workpiece. Be

prepared to hold saw handle back to

keep the saw blade from coming toward

you. Keep one hand on the saw handle

at all times.

A _

41&WARNIN(3: If the saw blade is pulled

through the workpiece beyond the mid-

dle of the saw blade, it can:

•pick up and throw the cut-off sec-

tion of the workpiece which could

hit and injure you or others in the

area, or;

•lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and draw your

hand into the blade as the blade

is returned.

3. Lower the blade into but not touching the

table kerr.

Pull the saw blade through the

workpiece to the distance shown below.

Fig 96 -Distance Needed to Complete Crosscut

12. Support and hold the workpiece down

and against the fence firmly with your left

hand.

13. Pull blade through fence and workpiece

just enough to complete the cut. Fig. 96.

14. Return saw to its rearmost position and

continue to hold the saw handle.

15. Turn saw off.

16. Wait for the blade to stop turning.

17. Remove yellow key form red switch.

10. Insert yellow keN'into red switch.

] 1. Turn saw on.

Z't

WARNING: Saw blade can be

pulled into or over fingers or

hand. Fingers or hand can be cut off.

Keep hand holding the workpiece at

least 8 inches to the left of, and out of

the path of the saw blade. Keep hand in

view at all times.

Repetitive Crosscuts

To make repetitive crosscuts:

1. Use two pieces of 1 inch by 2 by 2 inch

lumber.

2. Use a C clamp to clamp one piece on each

side of the lower right edge of the radial arm.

3. Clamp pieces of lumber at the distance

necessary to complete the crosscut.

Fig. 97 -H,ano Placement for Crosscu[s /

Fig. 98

Ripping i

Ripping is used to change the width of the

workpiece by sawing along its length. The

workpiece is fed into the saw blade. The

fence is used as a guide. Rip cuts are usually

made with the grain of the workpiece.

Saw Positions for Ripping

There are two saw blade positions for making

rip cuts: in-rip and out-rip.

in in-rip position, motor is toward the front

of the table, and blade is toward the fence.

i: ......

Fig 99 -In-Rip Saw Position

In out-rip position, motor is toward fence and

the blade is toward the front of the table.

Fig. 100- Out-Rip Saw Position (Infeed End)

_k WARNING: Stand only at infeed end

of saw. Feed workpiece only into infeed

end of saw as shown above.

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better

visibility of both the workpiece and your

hands than does the out-rip saw position.

The only time you should use the out-rip saw

position is when the workpiece is 14 inches

or wider. Use the in-rip position for all

workpieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest

part of the workpiece is between the blade

and the fence. For example, if you want to

take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set

the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do

not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-

ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

act

IILWARNING: If the blade is set between 2

inches and 6 inches from the fence, hands

will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers and hand can be cut off. Use a push

stick.

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from

the fence and use a push stick. Use a push

stick when the distance between the saw

blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a push stick.

_1_ WARNING: If the blade is set between

1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands

will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers/hand can be cut off. Use an auxiliary

fence/push block.

For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from

the fence and use a push block and auxiliary

fence. See Cutting Accessories section.

Safety Information for

Ripping

Read and follow the safety information below

before making any Lype of rip cut.

_1_ DANGER

1. Kickback can happen when the saw

blade is pinched or bound by the

workpiece. This creates force in the op-

posite direction to which the workpiece

is being fed. The teeth of the blade grab

and throw the workpiece violently back

out of the saw.

Kickback can happen when:

Anti-kickback pawls/spreader are not

used or not correctly adjusted.

Spreader is not in line with the blade.

Blade is not parallel to the rip fence.

Edge of workpiece is not in contact with

the rip fence or not straight.

Workpiece is twisted or warped and rocks

on the table top.

Edge of workpiece is not completely

against the rip fence, leaving gaps

between the fence and workpiece edge.

Workpiece is released before being

pushed completely past the saw blade.

Feeding pressure is put on the section

of the workpiece farthest from tile fence.

2. One of the most common and the

most dangerous mistakes people make

is to reach for the workpiece at the out-

feed side of the saw. DON'T ! The

workpiece could kickback as you reach

for, touch or try to pull the workpiece

through the blade. You can lose your

fingers, hand, or arm. The blade guard

does NOT provide complete protection

at outfeed end of the saw. Do not reach

for the workpiece at outfeed end of the

saw. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut

off. Follow instructions for ripping.

Kickback, Blade

Contact.

Fingers, hand, arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for Ripping

Fig. 101- Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

3. The workpiece can also kickback

violently toward you during a rip cut.

You can be hit hard enough to cause

broken bones and/or internal injury.

Keep blade guard, anti-kickback pawls

and spreader in place and adjusted.

Apply feed pressure to the section of

the workpiece next to the fence. Do not

apply feed pressure on the section of

the workpiece away from the fence.

Stand out of the path of the workpiece.

Kickback.

Internal injury can

result.

Use anti-kickback

pawls/spreader.

Fig. _02 Kickback, Thrown Workpiece Safety Sign

4. Non-thru cuts increase the chance of

kickback because the anti-kickback

pawls cannot always grab the irregular

workpiece surface. Use a featherboard.

See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a featherboard.

2. The workpiece can be grabbed _b_tbe

saw blade and take off like a mis_l_ = _"

Anyone standing in the path of the

workpiece can be killed.

5. The workpiece can snag or hang up

on a fence with a kerr in it. The

workpiece can be thrown or pinch the

blade, causing kickback. Use solid fen-

ces when making rip cuts.

6. Wood cut with the grain can spring

the kerr closed, bind the blade, and

cause a kickback. Adjust spreader to

ride in the kerf and prevent the kerf

from closing on saw blade.

7. Composition materials, like particle

boards and plastics, may be cut on the

saw. Because these materials often

have a harder and more slippery surface

than wood, the anti-kickback pawls may

not stop akickback. Place finished side

of workpiece down, roughest side of

workpiece up. Make anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments. Stand out of

the path of workpiece.

Wrong Way Feed,

Blade Contact.

Fingers, hand or arm

can be cut off.

Feed from infeed

end of saw.

Wrong Way Feed.

Workpiece impact

can kill others.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig. 103-Wrong Way Feed Safety Signs

Always feed the workpiece against the

direction of rotation of the blade, at the

infeed end of the blade.

_1_ DANGER: Wrong way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the

workpiece into the end of the blade with

pawls, the outfeed end. (Fig. 104) There

are two things that can happen if you

feed the workpiece into the outfeed end

of the saw blade:

1. The workpiece can be grabbed by the

blade and pull your hands into the blade

before you can let go or pull back.

Fingers, hands or arms can be cut off.

lnfeed End of Outfeed End

Saw Blade of Saw Blade

DANGER

Fig. 104 -Infeed and Outfeed Ends of Saw Blade

Blade Guard, Anti-kickback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

workpiece spreader are designed to reduce or

eliminate the risk of injury, from blade con-

tact, workpiece kickback and wrong way feed.

The Blade Guard:

• serves as a partial barrier to help

keep hands from contacting the blade

at the infeed end of the saw blade.

• helps keep the workpiece from lifting

or fluttering during ripping.

• helps catch or deflect workpiece chips

or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-Kickback Pawls :

• help reduce kickback by grabbing into

and holding the workpiece.

The

act as a barrier to provide some

protection from blade contact.

Spreader:

helps keep the kerf of the workpiece

open, which helps prevent the blade

from being pinched and causing

workpiece kickback.

when correctly set, helps reduce or

eliminate the chance of wrong way

feed because it blocks the workpiece

from contacting the saw blade.

'_ WARNING: The anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments must be made

each time a different thickness workpiece

is cut to reduce or eliminate kickback.

Rip Cutting Checklist

Use the following rip cutting checklist at the

beginning of each new cutting period to

reduce the risk of an accident.

to side,

Arbor nut snug.

for cut.

Swivel, bevel, rip, miter and table =

locks locked:

Blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader adjusted.

Use push block if cutting between: 1'127

and 2 inches off workpiece. !:,

Use featherboard if making a non-thrc

cut and when needed on through cuts.

Read and follow instructions for the type

of rip cut you want to make.

Making a Rip Cut Table Kerf

You will need to make a table kerf before a

rip cut can be made. Every time you move

the blade a new distance from the fence, you

will need to make a new kerf.

Blade Guard Adjustments

1. Unplug saw a_nd remove yellow ke_

2. Put saw in In-Rip position ano lOCKme

saw arm in the 0° position.

1. Put saw in desired rip position and lock the

saw arm in the 0° position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table

locks.

3. Adjust saw arm with handwheel until the

saw blade almost touches the table top.

4. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet.

5. Put on safety goggles.

6. Insert the yellow key in the red switch.

7. Turn saw on.

8. Lower saw blade until blade touches the

table.

9. Turn the handwheel about 1 full turn

more. This will make a 1/16 to 1/8 inch kerf

in the table.

_WARNING: For workpieces 1/4 inch

thick or less, make the rip kerr at least

1/8 inch deep to keep the saw blade

from rising up on top of workpieces and

violently throwing them.

10. Turn saw off and remove yellow key.

11. Unplug saw at the end of cutting session.

Adjustments for Ripping

,_1= DANGER: You will need to make

blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader adjustments before making a rip

cut.

Fig. 105- In-Rip Saw Position

3. Lock rip, miter, bevel, swivel and table

locks.

4. Go to the in-feed end of the saw blade.

Fig. 101.

5. Put the workpiece on the table, in line with

blade and under the nose of blade guard, so

it touches the blade.

6. Loosen the guard clamp screw and rotate

the guard until the guard nose just clears the

workpiece. Fig. 103.

7. Tighten the gnard clamp screw.

Infeed

Direc

Anti-Kickback/

Screw

Guard Clamp

Screw

Anti-Kickback

Bar

_n of Kickback

Fig. 106 -Blade Guard Position for Ripping

Anti-kickback Pawls and Spreader Adjust-

ments

1. Go to the outfeed end of the saw blade.

2. Put edge of workpiece beside the blade

and under the pawls.

3. Loosen wing screw and lower the anti-kick-

back pawls and spreader until the spreader

hangs next to the edge of the workpiece and

the pawls, on one side of the spreader, rest

on the workpiece.

Fig. !07 -Anti-Kickback Pawl Position

Pawl

Making Rip Cuts

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better

visibility of both the workpiece and your

hands than does the out-rip saw position. The

only time you should use the out-rip saw posi-

tion is when the workpiece is 14 inches or

wider. Use the in-rip position for all

workpieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest

part of the workpiece is between the blade

and the fence. For example, if you want to

take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set

the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do

not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-

ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

WARNING: If the blade is set be-

tween 2inches and 6 inches from the

fence, hands will be brought too close

to the blade. Fingers and hand can be

cut off. Use a push stick.

÷ ,

4. Tighten wing screw.

5. Go to the infeed end of the saw blade.

6. Push the workpiece a few inches in the

direction of the cut and then pull the

workpiece back toward you. The pawls

should have grabbed the wood and stopped

the kickback motion by grabbing into the

workpiece. If they did not, repeat adjust-

ments until the pawls grab the workpiece. If

the pawls fail to grab the workpiece, sharpen

or replace them. If that fails to work, use a

featherboard. Repeat steps for making anti-

kickback pawls and spreader adjustments

above.

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from

the fence and use a push stick. Use a push

stick when the distance between the saw

blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a push stick.

_iL WARNING: If the blade is set be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches from the

fence, hands will be brought too close

to the blade. Fingers/hand can be cut

off. Use an auxiliary fence/push block.

For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from

the fence and use a push block and auxiliary"

fence. See Cutting Accessories section.

tliWARNINL_: When making through

rip cuts do not set the blade closer than

1/2 inch from the fence or auxiliary

fence, your hands will be brought too

close to the blade. Your fingers and

hand can be cut off. Do not use a radial

arm saw to rip cut less than 1/2 inch

wide workpieces.

9. Stand out of the line of the worl_'i_'cg _7-- -:,]

be clear of workpiece in case of ldckba¢l_ );f

1. Set the blade to desired distance from the

fence and lock the saw arm in the 0°position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table

locks.

3. Make blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader adjustments.

4. Remove workpiece from table.

5. Turn saw on.

6. Place workpiece under the guard nose,

keeping workpiece edge against the fence.

7. Place one hand flat on the workpiece and

next to fence.

8. Place the other hand behind the first so

that your fingers are:

• on the back edge of workpiece;

• out of the blade path and,

• as close to the fence as possible.

_IL WARNING: Even when all steps to

reduce kickback are taken, the

workpiece can still kickback. You or

others in the area can be hit hard

enough to cause broken bones or inter-

nal organ injury. Stand out of the line of

the saw blade and workpiece.

Fig. 108 -Hand and Body Position for Making an

In-Rip Cut

10. Position your body at the infeed end of

the saw blade. Start and complete the cut

from that same side.

11. Push the workpiece, putting pressure on

the part of the workpiece between the blade

and the fence. If you push the part of the

workpiece on the other side of the blade, the

blade could be pinched and the workpiece

will kickback.

12. Keep pushing the section of the

workpiece between the blade and the fence

until the piece has been pushed completely

past the anti-kickback pawls.

_lb DANGER: The blade guard does

NOT provide complete protection at out-

feed end of the saw blade. The

workpiece could kickback as you reach

for, touch or pull the workpiece through

the blade, pulling your hand into the

blade. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut

off. Do not pull, hold-down or touch the

workpiece at the outfeed end of the saw.

Kickback, Blade

Contact.

Fingers, hand, arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for Ripping

Fig. 109- Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

13. Turn the saw off

_1_ WARNING: Blade continues to turn

for about 12 seconds after power is

turned off. Do not reach for cut

workpiece until blade stops. Fingers or

hand can be cut off by the turning

blade. Wait for blade to stop turning.

14. Remove yellow key from red switch.

Bevel Ripping

To make a bevel rip cut:

1. Set the saw in the desired position.

2. Index the arm to 0°and lock in position.

3. Bevel the blade to the desired angle.

4. Follow steps for making a rip cut.

Note: For dadoing, molding and edging, fol-

low instructions for crosscutting.

Dadoing

!. Instructions for using dado blades are

provided with the dad() blade.

2. The saw arbor is designed for a dado set

up to 13/16 inches wide. Use of a wider dado

on the arbor could cause the dado and arbor

nut to spin off. Take several passes of the

dado if cut required is greater than 13/16 of

an inch wide.

3. To avoid excessive load on the motor

never cut a 13/16 inch wide dado deeper than

1/8 inch in one pass.

4. When installing the dado on the arbor, al-

ways install the inside loose collar first to en-

sure good arbor nut engagement. Make sure

the arbor nut is snug. Install the arbor nut

directly against the outside of the dado.

Molding

1. Instructions for using the molding head are

provided with the molding head.

2. Use of molding head or drum sander with

the saw arbor vertical requires an opening

(next to rear face of fence) for saw arbor

clearance. See Cutting Accessories section to

make a molding fence.

Edging

1. Edging requires the use of a dado or mold-

ing head in the horizontal position (parallel

to table).

2. Use proper accessory guard when edging.

See Recommended Accessories section.

_I, WARNING: Using the saw without the

proper accessory guard for edging is ex-

tremely dangerous. Hands, fingers or

arm can be cut off. Buy, use and follow

instructions for edging guard.

3. Use an auxiliary fence when edging with

the radial arm in the 0° miter position. See

Cutting Accessories section to make auxiliary

fence for edging in the 0° miter position.

_Ib WARNING: If the auxiliary fence is

not used when the saw arm is in the 0°

crosscut position, the molding head can-

not be located behind the fence for safe

and proper operation.

3. Remove saw blade, dado, or

sory from the sa_ arbor shaft be{ 1

the accessory shaft. Do not use th_saw *1

accessories installed on both endS,ofxhe sawJ

arbor shaft at the same time.

4. Edging can also be done in the 30 ° left

miter without the use of an auxiliary fence.

Follow the instructions below.

4. Make sure the unused shaft is covered by a

guard, the arm, or the screw cap to avoid

being pulled into moving parts by hair,

threads, clothing.

• Miter the arm to the left approximate-

ly 30 °.

• Swivel the motor until bottom of

motor is parallel to and facing the rip

fence and operating instructions label

is visible.

5. Drill chucks can bend and pieces of the

drill bit can break. You can be blinded or in-

jured if hit by thrown pieces. Do not use twist

drills longer than 7 inches.

6. Use a spade type drill of 1 inch diameter

or smaller. Use for drilling only wood or plas-

tic because the speed is not high enough for

other types of materials.

• Follow all steps outlined on motor

label as shown below.

Fig. !10 -Edging Label

Accessory Safely

7, Do not use other reduced shank drills.

8. Remove adjusting wrenches. Form habit of

checking to see that adjusting wrenches are

removed from tool before turning it on.

9. When using the accessory shaft in the verti-

cal position, swivel the motor 90 °so that the

arbor shaft is under the radial arm as shown.

,WARNING: Clothing, hair, jewelry can

be caught and pulled into an exposed

arbor shaft. Fingers, hand or arm can be

broken or cut off. Place the arbor shaft

under the radial arm when using the ac-

cessory shaft.

1. For your safety use only recommended ac-

cessories. Use of any other accessories may

increase the risk of injury. See Recom-

mended Accessory section of manual.

2. Use of grinding wheels, abrasive or cut off

wheels, or wire wheels is dangerous because

they can break explosively and throw pieces.

You can be blinded or recieve a life threaten-

ing puncture wound. Do not use grinding

wheels, abrasive/cut off wheels or wire wheels.

Fig. 111- Arbor Shaft Position When Using

Accessory Shaft

Cutting Accessories

Fences

Fences are required for all saw operations.

Crosscutting requires fences with kerfs (slots)

to match the path of the saw, because the saw

blade is pulled through the kerf in the fence

to cut the workpiece.

Ripping requires a solid fence with no kerfs

or slots, because the fence serves as a guide

for the workpiece being pushed into the saw

blade. If the workpiece is pushed along a

fence with kerfs, the workpiece can get

caught on a kerf, pinch the blade and cause

the workpiece to kickback.

Make a new fence:

• when the fence used for crosscutting

has weakened from having too many

kerfs cut in it;

*x_hen you want to make a rip cut but

the fence on the saw has kerfs;

• when you want to crosscut a

workpieco higher than >'our" current

fence.

To make a new fence:

1 Use .-,/

• a,4 inch knot free lumber. Do not use

particle board or other composite material he-

cause they arc not strong enough

2. Cut lumber to a length equal to the length of

the table, and to a width more than half the

height of the _orkpiece being cut, but never less

than 3/4".

Push Stick

Push sticks are used during ripping when the

blade is placed between 2 and 6 inches from

the fence.

Make a push stick when:

• the blade is to be placed 2 to 6 in-

ches from the fence;

• existing push stick has been damaged.

To make a push slick:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot free) piece of lum-

ber.

2. Cut a piece 15 inches long by 1 5/8 inches

wide.

3. Cut a 45 degree notch in one end as shown.

Slightly Less Than

Thickness of Workpiece

up to 3/8" 5, J

15 "45sNotch t-L-L ,-Jl

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 112 -Push Stick Dimensions

Fig. 113 -Way to Use Push Stick

Auxiliary Fence and Push

Block

An auxiliary fence must be used if the blade

is positioned between 1/2 inch and 2 inches

from the fence during ripping. An auxiliary

fence must always be used with a push block.

Their purpose is to keep your hands away

from the saw blade. They are also needed

when you use the molding head.

Make an auxiliary fence when:

• the blade is to be placed 2 inches or

less from the fence;

• an existing auxiliary fence is not the

same width all along its length;

• the existing auxiliary fence has been

damaged by blade contact.

To make auxiliary fence:

1. Use one piece of 3/8 inch plywood and two

pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.

2. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 40 inches

long by 5 1/2 inches wide.

3. Cut one piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 40 in-

ches long by 3 5/8 inches wide.

4. Cut other piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 40

inches long by 2 1/4 inches wide.

5. Glue the two 3/4 inch plywood pieces

together so that they line up square (flush)

on an edge.

6. Glue the 3/8 inch plywood piece at right

angle to and flush against the 2 1/4 inch wide

3/4 inch plywood.

7. Reinforce with nails.

............ i I

3/4" Plywood

This Face and This

Edge Must Be Parallel

3/8" Plywood

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 114 -Auxiliary Fence Dimensions

Push Block

Push blocks are always used with an auxiliary

fence.

Make a push block when:

• the blade is to be placed 1/2 inch to 2

inches from the fence;

• you make the first auxiliary fence;

• existing push block has been damaged.

To make a push block:

1. Use one piece of 3/4 inch plywood and one

piece of 3/8 inch plywood.

2. Cut the 3/4 inch plywood to 12 inches long

by 5 inches wide.

3. Cut atriangular piece off each of two

corners of the 12 inch side by marking with a

pencil in and down from the corners 1 1/4 in-

ches and cutting along the diagonal formed

by the points.

4. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 12 inches long

by 5 1/8 inches wide.

5. Cut out a notch from the 12 inch side of

the 3/8 plywood that is 9 1/2 inches Long by

3/8 inch wide. The dimensions of the remain-

ing 3/8 plywood are shown in Fig. 115.

6. Glue the 3,'4 inch plywood on top of the

3/8 inch plywood so that their 12 inch sides

are square, as shown;

These Edges Must

Be Parallel

,4 LI

2-1/2 7

5-1/8

3/4" Plywood

1-1/4 x

1-!/4

3/8" Plywood

2-1/2

3/8 3/8

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 115- Push Block Dimensions

Auxiliary Fence for Edging

Make an auxiliary fence for edging:

• before doing edging with the arm at

0° miter position.

• when existing ones have been

damaged.

To make a fence lbr edging:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot-free) lumber.

2. Cut to the dimensions shown.

Auxiliary Fence Spacer Table

Rear Table

7. Cut a piece of plywood 3/8 inch wide by

2 1/2 inches long and glue it to the underside

of the 3/8 inch plywood in line with the edge

that sticks out. Do not use nails bccause if

you accidently cut into the push block w'ith

the saw blade, the nails will dull the blade.

8. Lay the push block on top of the auxiliary.

fence to make sure that their widths match ex-

actly, and are each 4 3/4 inches.

Fig. 116 - Way to Use Auxiliary Fence/Push Block

_--- 17" --'--_ _o 16" _- JL

{" 45°_-: ....._-_2t'7"_4 3/4

1__[ _L

Note: All Dimensions in Inches 3/4-"t ?-'_1

Fig. !17- Auxiliary Fence for Edging

For use of the molding head or drum sander

with saw arbor vertical, the rear table re-

quires an opening (next to rear face of fence)

for arbor clearance. Cut opening directly

below arbor in vertical position. Opening

dimensions are shown below.

Rear Table _[, _.db 3 "1[3-1/2

1--19--t l

Note AH Dirnensionsin Inches

Fig. 118 -Rear Table Opening Dimensions

When operating the drum sander the motor

must be blown or vacuumed frequently to pre-

vent sawdust buildup which will interfere with

normal motor ventilation.

Featherboard

Featherboards are used during rip cutting to

help keep the workpiece against the fence.

The featherboard is clamped to the front

table, so that the angled edge of the feather-

board is against the workpiece on the infeed

end of the blade. The other edge of the

workpiece is against the fence.

Make new featherboards when existing ones

have been damaged.

1. Use solid (knot free) lumber 24 inches by

5 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch.

2. On the 24 inch sides mark a point 5 1/2 in-

ches down on the left and 9 1/2 inches down

on the right from the edge of the board.

Draw a tine between the points.

3.Crosscut workpiece at a 30 ° angle then rip

to make the kerfs.

4. Do not clamp the featherboard against the

cut off part of the workpiece.

Fig. !20 -Way to Use a Featherboard

Attaching Auxiliary Board to

Crooked Workpiece

If the workpiece you want to rip cut does not

have a straight edge, attach an auxiliary board

to the workpiece.

1. Place irregular side of workpiece against

fence.

Note: All Dimensions in inches

Fig. 119- Featherboard Dimensions

5-1/2

2. Place straight edged auxiliary board on top

of workpiece and against fence.

3. Tack the auxiliary board to the workpiece.

The auxiliary board must not extend beyond

the leading end of the workpiece and should

cover the workpiece width only enough to

pass between the blade and fence.

4. Use a fence that is equal to or higher than

the combined height of the workpiece and

auxiliary board.

Sears Recommends The Following Accessories*

Item Cat. No.

Saw blades

(10" diameter with 5/8" hole) ......... See Catalog

Leg Set Caster ....................... 9-22221 or 9-22222

Sandin g Drum .......................................... 9-25246

Drill Chuck and Key .......................... See Catalog

Dust Collector .................................... See Catalog

Molding Head Guard 8". .................... See Catalog

Taper Jig ............................................. See Catalog

Auxiliary Table Cover ........................ See Catalog

Miter Square ....................................... See Catalog

Extension Table .................................. See Catalog

Satin Cut Dado

7". ....................................................... See Catalog

8". ....................................................... See Catalog

8" Carbide .......................................... See Catalog

Standard Cut Dado

8". ....................................................... See Catalog

Adjustable Dado

7" - 24 Tooth Carbide ........................ See Catalog

7" - 32 Tooth Carbide ........................ See Catalog

7" - 16 Tooth Carbide ........................ See Catalog

8" - 48 Tooth Carbide ........................ See Catalog

Molding Heads

7" Bits Not Included ........................... See Catalog

7" - 27 Piece Set ................................. See Catalog

7" - 15 Piece Set ................................. See Catalog

Sanding Wheel - 10". ......................... See Catalog

Books

Power Tool Know How Handbook .......... 9-29117

Guards

Lower Retractable Guard

0_or 90 ° Crosscut Only) ....................... 9-29009

* Recommended means that these accessories

are designed to fit this radial ann saw. Read and

follow accessory instructions on their use and

limitations.

Sears may recommend other accessories not

listed in the manual. See your nearest Sears store

or Catalog department for other accessories.

Do not use any accessory unless you have re-

ceived and read complete instructions for its use.

.÷

Lower Blade Guard Safety Information ...............

IMPORTANT WARNING

The following safety information and instruc-

tions apply to all blades and accessories.

The lower blade guard is required by the Occu-

pational Safety and Health Administration

(OSHA) if the radial saw is used commercially.

The lower blade guard is intended for use only in

repetitive 90 ° crosscutting.

Repetitive 90 ° Crosscutting is the repeated

and continuous cutting of many pieces of

lumber to the same length with the saw

placed in the 90 ° crosscut position.

In repetitive 90 ° crosscutting, the guard may

reduce the chance of accidentally touching the

blade from the side. This protection is possible

ONLY when:

• the blade is in its rearmost position and

• the guard is resting on the table so the leading

and trailing teeth of the blade are not exposed

from the sides.

The lower blade guard ONLY provides protec-

tion against minor cuts and bruises that occur

from contact with the fiat sides of the spinning

blade.

WARNING: The lower blade guard

will not provide any protection if the blade

is pulled over your hand, or your hand

enters the blade path from the front or rear

of the blade. Fingers or hand can be cut or

cut off.

Remove the lower blade guard for ALL other

types of cuts except repetitive 90 ° crosscutting.

Using the lower guard other than for repetitive

90 ° crosscutting will increase the risk of certain

hazards:

During rip and bevel cuts the workpiece or

narrow cut-off pieces can be pinched between

the guard and the blade. Workpiece or cut-off

pieces can kickback.

• In the bevel position the blade teeth are fully

exposed. Fingers or hand can be cut off.

•Cut off pieces can jam between the guard and

blade. Turn saw off and wait for blade to stop

before freeing a jammed guard or blade.

• Workpiece or cut-off pieces can be violently

thrown by the blade. Wear safety goggles.

CAUTION

The lower blade guard can get caught or jam in

fence or table kerfs.

Read and follow the warning on the lower outer

guard: [WARNING:

TO AVOID INJURY

SHUT OFF POWER

BEFORE CLEARING A

JAMMED LOWER GUARD

Read saw manual for additional saw use and

safety information.

Glossary

Anti-kickback Pawls: Pivoted objects with

teeth which help prevent workpiece kickback.

Arbor: The bar or shaft that holds the saw

blade.

Bevel: The slanting of the motor and blade to

an angle between 0° and 90°.

Crosscut: Cutting a workpiece to length.

Dado: Non-through cut which produces a

square sided notch or trough in the workpiece.

Featherboard: Device used to keep

workpiece in contact with the fence during rip-

ping.

Freehand: Performing a cut without the use

of fence, guide or hold-down designed to

prevent the workpiece from moving during

the cutting operation.

Heel: Misalignment of the blade re[atlve to

blade travel path.

Infeed: The end of the saw blade where the

workpiece is fed during ripping; identified by

the absence of pawls.

In-Rip: Positioning tile the motor toward the

front of the table, the blade toward the fence.

Kerr: Slot caused by removal of material by

tile blade in a through cut, or a shallow slot

produced by the blade in a non-through cut.

Kickback: Uncontrolled throwing of the

workpiece during ripping.

Miter: Positfoning the saw arm to the right or

left of 0°.

Molding Cut: Non-through cut which

produces a contoured surface on the

workpiece.

Outfeed: The end of the saw blade where the

rip cut workpiece leaves the saw blade; iden-

tified by presence of pawls.

Out-rip: Positioning the motor toward the

fence, the blade toward the front of the table

during ripping.

Parallel: When two surfaces are the same dis-

tance apart at all points.

Perpendicular: When two surfaces are 90 °

(square) to each other.

Push Block/Auxiliary Fence: Two accessories

used together for ripping a workpiece be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches wide.

Push Stick: Cutting accessory used during rip-

ping a workpiece between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches wide.

Revolutions Per Minute (RPM): Number of

turns completed by an object in one minute.

Ripping: Used to change the width of a

workpiece by cutting along its length.

Spreader: Used during ripping to keep the

kerf from closing and pinching the blade. It

helps prevent kickback.

Workpiece: Object being cut by the saw.

Hel ,fill Hints

In order to get accurate cutting results from

your radial arm saw, do the following:

1. Follow all steps in the Alignment of

the Blade section.

_ 15__

, g"t: '!_;_

i _;>,?'

3. Place the same edge of the workplece

against the fence for all cuts. Make the first cut

at one end of the workpiece, then flip the

workpiece over and make the second cut from

the other end. Continue this way until all four

cuts are made. (Figure. 121)

2. Place the long edge of your framing

square against the edge of the

workpiece that will be held against the

fence during cutting. Make sure that

this edge of the workpiece is straight.

3. Make sure that your workpiece lays

fiat on the front table of your saw.

4. Clean all sawdust and woodchips

from the table.

5. Hold the workpiece firmly against the

fence and table during all cuts. You

should use extra force during miter and

bevel cuts since the workpiece tends to

move when these cuts are made.

"6. Use the right sawblade for each job,

and make sure that all blades and cut-

ting tools are sharp.

When making a four-sided frame:

1. Make sure that the top and bottom

pieces are exactly the same length.

This Edge of Board Fence

Against Fence For All Cuts

>" I

Turn workpiece over end for end..

keep same edge against fence when

making successive cuts.

[/)-,. '

Pencil Line for

Gauging Required Length

Fig. 121-Making a 4-Sided Frame

4. Make a pencil line on the table for

gauging the length of each cut.

2. Make sure that both side pieces are

exactly the same length.

Maintaining Your Saw

General

41LWARNING: For your own safety,

turn power switch off and remove plug

from power source outlet before main-

taining or lubricating your saw.

When you receive your new Craftsman radial

saw, it requires no lubrication. The radial

saw has been partially aligned and all bear-

ings are lubricated and sealed for life. In

time, however, in order to keep your saw in

perfect working order and accurate, it will be

necessa Uto lubricate and realign. In fact

your radial saw needs more of a cleaning

than a lubrication.

Replacing Antikickback Pawls

Make sure the teeth of the antikickback pawls

are always sharp. If they become dull they

must be replacezd" . With a 1/2 inch wrench or

socket remoxCthe 5/16 hex nut and old

pawls. Reassemble new antikickback pawls

and ,spreader to the bar. Check .vJreader for

proper alignment and correct if necessary.

(See Alignment of the Blade, Installing

Guard /Setting Spreader sectidn.)

Cleaning

Periodically remove any heavy build-up of

sawdust that may accumulate on the saw.

The absorbilqg tendency of sawdust will draw

lubricants a;vay from the areas where they

are needed. Clean the carri(_W hcarb?_,s and

track surfaces. If packed sawdust and grease

accumulate repeatedly on carriage bearings

and track inspect the wiFers for wear ;_nct

replace if necessary. (See Adjustments to

Compensate for Wear, Swivel Lock, later ha

this section.)

To avoid motor damage the motor should be

blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent

sawdust build-up which will interfere with

normal motor ventilation.

Lubrication

Your saw is precision built and should be

kept properly lubricated. Before describing

the various points which may periodically re-

quire lubrication, it is more important to first

mention the points which should not be lubri-

cated.

Do not lubricate the following:

• carriage ball bearings

• motor bearings

•area between the miter locking rings

and the column tube

The carriage ball bearilz&s" and motor bearings

are sealed ball bearings which require no

added lubrication.

Do lubricate the following, periodically, using

SAE No 10W-30 automotive engine oil:

• Apply a few drops of oil along the

swivel index pin and the bevel index pin

only if the pins have a tendency to

stick. Swivel to in-rip or out-rip for

easy access to the swivel indexpin.

Bevel to 45 ° and bevel indexpin can be

easily accessed behind theyoke as il-

lustrated. (Figure 122)

Swive! Index

Bevel Index

.Lubricate the cam surfaces of th_

lock assembly. 1"_ _ _ ,

• A light film of oil should be wiped on _"a

the face of the column tube to lubricate

the fit between the column tube and

column support. With elevation hand-

wheel raise arm to upper limit.

• The thread on the elevation shaft as-

sembIy can be lubricated through the

oiI hole in the center of the radial arm

cap. Lubricate ramp on the swivel index

spring.

Fig. 122 -Swivel and Bevel Index Pins

•Lubricate the bearing points where the

arm attaches to the column tube. With

a#2 Phillips screwdriver remove two

screws and the rear arm cover for ac*

cess to these points. Be careful not to

get lubricant on the locking rings as this

will adversely affect the miter locking

function. (Figure 123)

•Apply a few drops of oil to the foot as-

semblies, where the levers are inserted

through the rods.

Do not use too much oil. Excessive oil at any

location will attract airborne dust particles

and sawdust.

Refer to parts lists for locations of parts as

needed.

Locking Ring

Fig. 123 -Bearing Points Where Arm Attaches to

Column Tube

Adjustments for Wear

Bevel Lock

The purpose of the bevel lock is to lock the

motor at any bevel angle. An adjustment is

required if the motor can be easily moved by

hand when the bevel lock is locked or if bevel

lock offers minimal resistance when moving it

to the locked position. To make this adjust-

ment:

Swivel Lock

This handle provides a friction lock between

the upper face of the yoke and the bottom

face of the carriage. It should eliminate any

play or rotation between these two parts when

locked. An adjustment is required if the yoke

can be easily rotated by hand when handle is

locked or yoke lock handle offers minimal

resistance when moving handle to the locked

position. To make this adjustment:

1. Remove motor support cover.

2. Position the motor at approximately 30 °

bevel angle and lock bevel lock. (Figure 124)

Fig. 125

Fig. 124 -Bevel Lock -Locked

3. With a 3/4 socket tighten the 1/2-13 hex

nut located at the back of the motor support

casting until the motor can no longer be easily

moved by hand. Do not overtighten.

4. Unlock bevel lock and move motor to any

of the five index positions. If the motor does

not index securely the adjustment is too tight.

Loosen 1/2-13 hex nut until bevel ind_r pin

seats properly.

5. Adjustment is complete when both locking

and indexing functions are working properly.

Replace motor support cover.

1. Remove screw and nut from knob on swivel

lock. Remove knob from swivel lock lever using

a regular screw driver.

2. Separate the wrench from the lever by rotat-

ing the wrench a few degrees counter-clockwise

from the lever to disengage tab.

3. Using the wrench portion tighten the square

nut one quarter rotation at a time. This is done by

locating the wrench across the comers of the

square nut then moving the wrench until it lines

up with the lever portion.

Fig. 126

4. Holding the wrench and arm in position

rotate yoke to a non-preset position and

rotate swivel lock to the locked position. If the

yoke can still be moved the square nut has not

been tightened enough. Repeat step 3.

5. When the adjustment is such that theyoke

can no longer be moved when the swivel lock is

in the locked position. Reinsert the tab on the

wrench into the slot in the lever.

6. Unlock swivel arm and rotate yoke to a non-

preset position. Return yoke to a rip position. If

the index pin does not securely seat at the preset

position, the adjustment is too tight. Loosen the

square nut one quarter turn until swivel index pin

seats securely.

7. Adjustment is complete when both locking

and preset position functions are working prop-

erly.

8. When the adjustment is such that the yoke can

no longer be moved when the swivel lock is in the

locked position, reinsert the tab on the wrench

into the slot in the lever.

9. Re-install knob to swivel handle and install

screw and nut in knob.

............. i

Arm and Column :-='z",_'% _ i

With the miter lock unlocked and fin the tim_n_

dexed position the arm should fit srtugty .ta,,..]

the column tube and not allow any vertical

movement. If you can move the end of the

arm up and down an adjustment is needed.

1. With a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two

screws and the rear arm cover.

2. With a 9/16 inch wrench or socket tighten

evenly the top two 3/8-16 hex head tapping

screws. The bottom two screws should also be

tightened evenly but not as tight as the top

screws. (Figure 127)

Fig. 127 -Location of Hex Head Tapping Screws

3. This adjustment is correct when the arm

moves firmly without vertical movement.

4. Re-install the rear arm cover.

Carriage Bearings

The carriage should roll freely but with some

resistance for the entire length of travel. To

check for bearing looseness, perform the fol-

lowing steps.

1. Place yoke in either the in-rip or out-rip

position.

2. Push the carriage back against the rear stop.

3. Hold the front carriage bearing with your

fingers as tight as possible and pull carriage

forward at the same time. If you can prevent

the bearing from turning an adjustment is re-

quired. (Figure 128)

Fig. !28- Front Carriage Bearings

4. Repeat step 3 with the rear carriage bear-

ings'.

To adjust the carriage bearings" perform the

following steps:

1. Clean and lubricate the bearing races and

the bead on which they ride prior to adjust-

ment.

2. To adjust the bearing, use a 9/16 inch

wrench to hold the bolt head while using a

1/2 inch wrench to loosen the hex nut.

(Figure 129)

Fig. 129 -Location of Hex Nut

3. Rotate the eccentric bolts a partial turn

(left or right) as required to take up loose-

ness. Both bolts should be adjusted an equal

amount to maintain blade squareness to the

table in the rip positions.

4. Hold the head of the eccentric bolts in their

new position and retighten the nuts. Do not

overtighten. Overtightening the bearings will

cause difficult operation and severly reduce

the life of the track and bearings'.

5. Repeat the test procedu=e as described

above and readjust if necessary.

Miter Lock

The miter iock operates adjustable locking

bands which lock the arm to the column tube

in both indexed and unindexed positions. If

the arm can be easily moved by hand when

locked in an unindexed position the following

adjustment must be made.

1. Move the arm to an unindexed position and

leave the miter lock in the unlocked position.

(Figure 131)

:!5

Miter Lock Handle

Fig. 131 -Miter Lock -Unlocked

2. With a 3/16 inch hex "L" wrench find the

1/4-20 hex socket cap screw through the hole in

the rear of the arm cover. To tighten turn the

wrench clockwise approximately 1/4 turn.

(Figure 132)

• @

Rip Lock !............... ;

The tip lock locks the carriage [n:any_-pos!tion

along the length of the arm. Ifit_'az_'a_

can be easily moved by pushing_and-pulling

on the yoke handle when the rip lock is in the

locked position an adjustment is required.

1. Hold the rip lock in the unlocked position

and with a 7/16 inch wrench tighten the 1/4-20

hex lock nut 1/4 turn. (Figure 133)

Arm Track

[_Sprin_ Locknut

___ Spacer

Rip Lock /"N

Lever Cam Carriage

Bolt

Fig. 133 -Location of Hex Lock Nut

2. Lock the rip lock and try again to move the

carriage. Make additional adjustments if

necessary.

3. Place the rip lock in the unlocked position

and move the carriage back and forth from

stop to stop. If the carriage is difficult to

move at any point or you can feel the rl)) lock

dragging on the track the adjustment is too

tight. Loosen the hex nut one half the

amount of the last adjustment and try again.

Fig. 132- Location of Hex Socket Cap Screw

3. Lock the miter lock and try again to move

the arm. Readjust if necessary.

4. If it becomes extremely difficult to push

the miter lock into the locked position too

much adjustment has been made. Turn the

wrench counterclockwise one half the

amount of the last adjustment and try again

to lock the arm.

Motor

To avoid motor damage this motor should be

blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent

sawdust buildup which will interfere with

normal motor ventilation.

Frequently blowing of fuses or tripping of

circuit breakers may result if:

• Motor is overloaded: Overloading can oc-

cur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is mis-

aligned so that the blade heels.

If the motor fails to start, turn the power

switch to the "OFF" position immediately.

Remove the yellow key. UNPLUG THE

TOOL. Check the saw blade to insure that it

turns freely and that its teeth are not wedged

into the table top. After the blade has been

freed, try to start the motor again. If, at this

point, the motor still fails to start, refer to the

"Motor Trouble-Shooting Chart."

Motor circuit is fused differently from rec-

ommendations: Always follow instructions

for the proper fuse/breaker. Do not use a

fuse/breaker of greater capacity without

consulting a qualified electrician.

Low voltage: Although the motor is de-

signed for operation on the voltage and fre-

quency specified on the nameplate, normal

loads will be handled safely on voltages not

more than 10% above or below the name-

plate voltage. Heavy loads, however, re-

quire that voltage at motor terminals equal

the voltage specified on nameplate.

_2.:

• Improper extension cord size.

If the motor should suddenly stall while cut-

ting wood, the power switch should be turned

off, remove the yellow key and unplug the

power cord. Free the blade from the wood.

The motor may now be restarted and the cut

finished.

, i.¸¸

MODEL 113.197150 ONLY

Motor

To avoid motor damage this motor should be

blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent

sawdust buildup which will interfere with nor-

mal motor ventilation.

Your saw is equipped with a manual reset but-

ton designed to open the power line circuit

when the motor temperature exceeds a safe

level, motor is overloaded, or a low voltage

condition exists. (Figure 134)

__ Manual Reset Button

The motor may take as long to cool as Rd!d

for the heat to build up. An audibl_rdi_ '

when you push the red button will indicate..

that the protector is dosed (reset) and the

saw is ready for use.

3. As soon as the red button will dick into

running position, the saw may be started and

operated normally.

4. Frequent blowing of fuses or tripping of cir-

cuit breakers may result if:

• Motor is overloaded: Overloading can

occur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is

misaligned so that the blade heels.

•Motor circuit is fused differently from

recommendations: Always follow in-

structions for the proper fuse/breaker.

Do not use a fuse/breaker of greater

capacity without consulting a qualified

electrician.

Fig. 134 -Manual Reset Button

1. If the protector opens the line and stops

the saw motor, immediately turn the saw

switch off, remove the yellow key, and allow

the motor to cool.

2. After cooling to a safe operating tempera-

ture, the overload protector can be closed

manually by pushing the red button on the

top of the motor. If the red button will not

click into place immediately, the motor is still

too hot and must be allowed to cool for a

while longer.

.Low voltage: Although the motor is

designed for operation on the voltage

and frequency specified on the

nameplate, normal loads will be hand-

led safely on voltages not more than

10% above or below the nameplate

voltage. Heavy loads, however, require

that voltage at motor terminals equal

the voltage specified on nameplate.

• Improper extension cord size.

MODEL 113.197150 ONLY

Changing Motor Voltage

ADANGER: To avoid electric shock unplug the saw before changing motor voltage.

Under normal home workshop usage, and if

full voltage is supplied to the motor, your saw

will operate efficiently on 120V, as connected

at the factor);. However, if any of the follow-

ing conditions exist, it will be advisable for

you to have a qualified electrician reconnect

the motor for 240V operation:

•Heavy duty operations.

.Either an undersized or an overloaded

branch circuit serving the saw motor.

• Low voltage supplied by the power

source, which the power company can-

not correct.

The procedures for changing the motor volt-

age (factory set for 120V) are described

below. These instructions should be followed

_.._Dual Voltage Switch

Fig. 135 -Dual Voltage Switch

3. Replace the 120V power cord plug with a

240V, 15 AMP, 3-blade plug. (Figure 136)

by aqualified electrician only.

Note: Whenever changing the switch position

from 120V to 240V or vice versa, make cer-

tain that all necessary steps (including proper

fusing of the branch circuit) are completed.

Connection for 120V A.C.

1. Remove motor coverpanel at blade end of

motor.

2. Using a small screwdriver, slide dual volt-

age switch to 120V position. Then replace

motor cover panel.

3. Use 120V power cord furnished with the

saw.

Connection for 240V A.C.

1. Remove motor coverpanel at blade end of

nlotor.

2. Using a small screwdriver, slide dual voltage

switch to 240V position. Then replace motor

cover panel. (Figure 135)

Grounding Blade Is

Longest of 3 Blades

Grounded

Outlet Box

No Adapter Is Available For This Type Plug

Fig. 136 - 240V Plug and Receptacle

4. Connect the power cord white and black

leads, respectively, to the two "hot" plug

blades, and comlect the power cord ground-

ing wire to the plug ground prong.

5. Plug the saw into a 240V, 15 AMP, 3-blade

receptacle.

6. Make certain the receptacle is connected

to a 240V A.C. power supply through a 240V

branch circuit having at least a 15 AMP time

delay fuse or circuit breaker.

i "_'1 _ '_ _'_ _"

Trouble Shooting

Motor

Problem

WARNING: To avoid injury, turn

power switch off and remove plug from

power source outlet before trouble

shooting.

Probable Cause What to Do

Motor will not run. Protector open, circuit broken.

Model 113.197150 only

Low voltage.

Push red button located on top of

motor. Listen for audible click

that indicates motor is reset.

Model 113.197150 only.

Check power line for proper

voltage.

Motor will not run and

fuses blow. Short circuit in line, cord, or

plug.

Inspect line, cord, and plug for

damaged insulation and shorted

wires.

Short circuit in motor or loose

connections. Inspect all terminals in motor

for loose or shorted terminals

or worn insulation wires.

Incorrect fuses in power line. Install correct fuses.

Motor fails to develop full

power.

(Power output of motor

decreases rapidly with

decrease in voltage at

motor terminals. For ex-

ample: a reduction of

10% in voltage causes a

reduction of 19% in maxi-

mum power output of

which the motor is

capable, while a reduction

of 20% in voltage causes a

reduction of 36% in maxi-

mum power output.)

Power line overloaded with

lights, appliances, and other

motors.

Reduce the line load.

Undersize wires or circuit too

long.

Increase wire sizes, or reduce

length of wiring.

General overloading of power

company's facilities.

(In many sections of the

country, demand for electrical

power exceeds the capacity of

existing generating and distribu-

tion systems).

Request a voltage check from

power company.

Motor - 2

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

Motor overheats. Excessive feed rate when

crosscutting or ripping.

Slow down rate of feed.

Improper cooling.

(Air circulation restricted

through motor due to sawdust,

etc.)

Clean out sawdust to provide

normal air circulation through

motor.

Saw blade has heel. Refer to Making Blade Parallel

to Table section.

Motor starts slowly or

fails to come up to full

speed.

Starting switch will not trip due

to low voltage.

Correct low voltage condition.

Motor stalls resulting in

blown fuses or tripped cir-

cuit breakers.

Voltage too low to permit Correct the low line voltage con-

motor to reach operating speed, dition.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not Replace fuses or circuit

have sufficient capacity, breakers with proper capacity

units.

Frequent opening of fuses

or circuit breakers.

Motor overloaded.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not

have sufficient capacity.

Reduce motor load.

Replace fuses or circuit

breakers.

Saw Operations

Problem

Crosscuts not accurate

0° and 45 ° miter.

Probable Cause

Looseness between column tube

and column support.

What to Do

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Adjusting Elevation.

Crosscut travel not square

with fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Crosscut Travel.

Column is loose in support. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Adjusting Elevation.

Arm not indexing properly. Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Miter

Lock.

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping.

Looseness between yoke and car- Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

riage assembly. Adjustments for Wear, Swivel

Lock.

Sawdust between workpiece and Keep front table clean.

fence.

Fence not straight. Replace fence.

Saw cuts at slight bevel

(not 90 ° to table).

Work table not properly leveled. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade not square to table. Go to Aligmnent of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Crosscutting.

Carriage Bearings Loose Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping.

Bevel lock loose. Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Bevel

Lock.

Saw Operations - 2

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

Workpiece kerf rough

with tooth marks from

blade (also called heel).

Saw blade not square

to fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Fence.

Saw blade not parallel

to table.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Using improper blade for finish

cut desired. Use proper smooth cutting

blade.

Wood binds, smokes, and

motor slows down or stops

when ripping.

Dull blade or warped board. Sharpen or replace the saw

blade. Do not use severely

warped material.

Feed rate too fast. Slow feed rate.

Saw blade heels. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Fence not straight. Replace fence.

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for Rip-

ping.

Board pulls away from

fence when ripping.

Saw blade has heel. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Workpiece strikes

spreader when ripping.

Spreader not in line with blade. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Installing Guard /Setting

Spreader.

Saw does not travel

smoothly on arm.

Dirty track. Clean track and lubricate with

light grease.

Bad bearing. Replace bearing.

Worn track. Replace track.

Clamping force not suffi- Miter lock needs adjustment.

dent at miter angles other

than 45 °.

Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Miter

lock.

Saw Operations -3

Problem

Clamping force not suffi-

cient at bevel angles other

than 45 °.

Probable Cause

Bevel lock needs adjusting.

What to Do

Go to Maintaining Yb-tlr_aw7-,

Adjustments for Wear, Bevel

Lock.

Depth of cut varies from

one end of the workpiece

to the other.

Table top not parallel with arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade tends to advance

through lumber too fast.

Dull blade.

Not advancing saw properly.

Replace or sharpen blade.

Draw saw blade across lumber

with a slow and steady pull.

Table cannot be leveled.

(Right side is higher than

left side with no adjustment

left, or vice versa.)

Column support shifted where it

mounts to saw base.

Loosen the six bolts that hold

the column support to the saw

base and shift arm.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

1 2

(See Fig. 2)

20 \

t\14

FIGURE 1

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

Always order by Part Number--Not by Key Number

FIGURE 1

Key Part

No. No.

1 816333-1

STD551010

60339

60353

815649

815777

815778

60074

10 806828-3

11 STD551012

12 STD512510

13 815989

14 37384

15 STD541025

16 STD551225

17 --

18 STD541037

Description

Screw, Pan Rec. Type "IT 10-32

x 1/2

*Washer, Flat 13/64 x 7/16 x 1/16

Bolt, Hex Hd. 3/8-16 x 2-1/8

Washer, .380 x 47164 x 1/8

Bearing, Arm

Scale, Miter

Indicator, Miter

Table Boards (see Fig. 7)

Screw, Hex Socket Set 1/4-20 x

718

Screw, Pan Hd. Rec. Type "T"

1/4-20 x 1-3/4

*Washer, 17164 x 518x 1/32

*Screw, Pan Hd. 1!4-20 x 1

Clip, "U" 1t4-20

Nut, Tee

*Nut, Hex 114-20

* Lockwasher 1/4

Arm Assembly (see Fig. 5)

*Nut, Hex 3/8-16

Key Part

No. No.

19 815774

20 60208

21 815980

22 815856-1

26 818192

27 i818193

28 i805589-5

29 818173

818172

30 i815773

-- iSP5249

-- i507965

-- 507967

Description

Rivet 1/4 x 112

Nut, Push 1/4

Bushing

Screw, Hex Washer Hd. 5/16-18

x 1-114

Yoke and Motor Assembly (see

Fig. 3)

Guard Assembly (see Fig. 6)

Base and Column Assembly

(see Fig. 2)

Cap, Trim R.H.

Cap, Trim LH.

Screw, Truss Hd. 114-20x 1t2

Cord with Plug

(Model 113.197150)

Cord with Plug

(Model 113.197110)

Cover, Rear Arm

Owners Manual (Not Ills.)

Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

* Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

Always order by Part Number--Not by Key Number

FIGURE 2--BASE AND COLUMN ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

Part

NO.

60339

60353

815649

817398-2

815774

818198

60208

815763

816647

10 818226

11 815770

12 STD581043

13 817398-1

14 818212

15 STD541037

16 818177

17 STD523107

18 STD551031

19 STD551131

20 815772

21 63500

22 STD582050

Description

Bolt, Hex Hd. 3/8-16 x 2-1/8

Washer, .380 x 47/64 x1t8

Bearing, Arm

*Screw, Socket Hd. Cap 1/4-20

x 1-1/4

Rivet, 1/4 x 112

Lock Assembly

Nut, Push 1t4

Latch Arm

Screw, Soc. Hd. Ty "T" 1/4-20

x314

Tube

Gib, Column Tube

*Ring, Retaining 7/16

Screw, Locking Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8

Support, Column Tube

*Nut Hex 3t8-16

Shaft, Elevating Crank

*Screw, Hex Hd. 5/16-18x 3/4

*Washer, 21164x 3/4 x 1/16

* Lockwasher, External 5/16

Bushing, Elevation

Washer, Thrust .502 x.927

x .031

*Ring, Retaining 112

Key Part

No. No.

23 STD541031

24 9416187

25 804182

26 818237

27 STD551210

28 STD511105

29 818199

30 60013

31 818215

32 STD541450

33 817106

34 63614

35 818164

36 818166

37 818161

38 120399

39 818162

40 818167

41 818224

42 815864

43 815865

44 3540

45 818165

Description

*Nut, Hex 5/16-18

Screw, Hex Hd. Ty "T" 5/16-18

x 314

*Ring, Retaining 1/2

Handwheel

* Lockwasher, External #10

*Screw, Pan Hd. 10-32 x 1/2

Channel, Table Mtg.

Washer, 11/32x 7/8 x 1/16

Base Assembly

* Nut, Lock 1/2-13

Washer, Keyed

Bearing Lift Shaft

Gear, Bevel

Bracket, Clamp

Shoe, Table Clamp

Nut, Square 5/16-18

Screw, Clamp

Shaft, Elevating

Nut, Elevation

Cover, Column Support

Screw, Hex Washer Hd. Type

"T" 1/4-20 x 1/2

Wrench

Gear, Pinion

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

1 (SEE FIG. 4)

MOTOR CORD

i12

FIGURE 3

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

Always order by Part Number--Not by Key Number

FIGURE 3--YOKE AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No.

_808380-6

818202

815678

815679-1

805561-10

815791

818154

815813

815836

818204

815788

806828

Description

Yoke Assembly (see Figure 4)

Screw, Pan Hd., Plastite

No. 8xl

Handle, Yoke

Washer, Shaft

Pin, Index

Washer, .505 x 7t8 x 1/16

Spring, Bevel

Lever, Bevel Lock

Nut, Square 1/2-13

Wedge, Bevel Spring

Cover, Yoke

Indicator, Bevel

Screw, Pan Hd. Type "T"

1/4-20 x 1t2

Key Part

No. No.

14 815992

15 STD551012

16 818888

17 815800

18 STD600803

19 818197

2O 508153

22 62498

23 9-32668

24 30495

25 805561-10

26 805839-1

Description

Screw, Soc. Hd. Type "TT"

1/4-20 x 5/8

*Washer, 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/16

.Motor

Scale, Bevel

*Screw, Pan Hd. 8-32 x 3/8

Plate, Index

Shaft Support with Plate

Collar, Blade

l"Blacle, Saw

Nut, Shaft

Washer, .505 x 7/8 x 1/16

Nut Lock 1!2-13

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

1-Stock Item may be Secured Through the Hardware Department of Most Sears Retail or Catalog Order Houses.

,Any attempt to repair this motor may result in unit misalignment and create a HAZARD unless repair is done by a

qualified service technician. Do not loosen the three screws holding the motor support to the motor. This assembly is

factory aligned. Repair service is available at your nearest Sears Store.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

39 38

22 21

_34 9

FIGURE 4

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

Always order by Part Number--Not by Key Number

FIGURE 4bYOKE ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No.

1 810214-3

STD315485

STD551031

817181

815805

815806

159572-98

8 815689

9STD551062

10 815817

11 STD541462

12 62636

13 815693

14 STD541425

15 62520

16 273229

17 !816497

18 815671

19 !818155

20 STD532510

Description

Screw, Low Hd. Cap 5/16-18 x

718

*Bearing, Ball..3150 I.D.

I_,Washer, 21/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

Wiper, Track

Support, Indicator

Indicator, Rip

Screw, Hex Wash Ty "T"

8-32 x 1/4

Carriage

*Washer, .630 x 1-1t8 x 3/32

Nut, Sq. Lock

*Nut, Lock 5t8-11

Nut, Sq. 114-20

Bracket, Rip Lock

*Nut, Lock 1t4-20

Spacer

Screw, Hex Hd. Type "T"

1/4-20 x 1/2

Spring, Rip Lock

Cam, Rip Lock

Lever, Rip Lock

*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 1

Key Part

No. No.

21 STD541231

22 STD551131

23 815691

24 STD551012

25 817398-1

26 818207

27 109529

28 815680

29 STD541025

30 816988

31 508155

32 815679

33 806828

34 STD512515

36 815694

37 STD551031

38 63777

39 60438

40 815807

Description

*Nut, Hex Jam 5/16-18

*Lockwasher, External 5/16

Ring, Yoke Index

*Washer, 17/64 x 7t16 x 1/32

Screw, Cap Locking

1/4-20 x 5/8

Yoke

Nut, Square 5/8-11

Spring, Swivel

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20

Knob, Swivel

Wrench, Adjustment with

Actuator

Pin, Index

Screw, Pan Hd. Type "T"

1/4-20 x 1/2

*Screw, Pan Hd. 1/4o20 x 1-1/2

Stud, Yoke Clamp

*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16

Bearing, Carriage

Washer, No. 2 Carriage

Bearing

Screw, Eccentric

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

3 23 \

227/_

3 4

I14

1717 16

FIGURE 5

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

Always order by Part Number--Not by Key Number

FIGURE 5--ARM ASSEMBLY

iKey i

iNo,

Part

No.

818239

169123-2

815809

815774

818182

STD601103

815703

815856

815779

815716

815704

STD551208

816113

815775

Description

Arm, Radial

Relief, Strain

Cable

Rivet, 114x 1/2

Actuator Assembly

*Screw, Pan Rec. Type "T"

10-32 x 3/8

Knob, Miter Lock

Screw, Hex Washer Hd. 5/16-18

x 3/4

Bushing

Trim, Arm

Housing, Switch

* Lockwasher, Internal #8

Switch, Locking (Model

113.197110)

Switch, Locking (Model

113.197150)

Key Part

No. No.

14 i9-22256

15 !815976

16 803709-1

STD600803

63467

818521

815786

816178

815867

815708

815868

818088-1

346030

60208

818238

Description

tKey, Switch

Bezel, Switch

Connector, Wire (Model

113.197110Only)

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd. Type "T"

8-32 x 3/8

Cap, Flag Terminal

Bumper, Rubber

Label, Trim LH.

Sleeve, Rubber

Spring, Compression

Spring, Miter Lock

Relief, Strain

Track, Arm

Screw, Pan Rec. Hd. 8-10 x 1/2

Push Nut, 1/4

Label, Trim R.H.

*Standard Hardware Item- may be Purchased locally.

t Stock item may be secured through the Hardware

Department of most Sears retail or Catalog Order Houses.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

Always order by Part Number -Not by Key Number

FIGURE 6 -GUARD ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

816264-1

120399

63258

63541

815816

STD551010

STD60! 103

STD541 731

815815

Guard

*Nut, Square 5/16-18

Elbow, Dust

Bar, Anti-Kickback

Guide, Anti-Kickback

*Washer, 13/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

*Screw, Pan Hd.

Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8

*Nut, Hex Jam 5/6-18

Pawl

Key Part

No. No. Description

10 STD581050

11 63270

12 816341

13 60435

14 816070

15 166785-3

16 63538

17 STD510805

18 STD551208

19 STD541008

*Ring, Retaining

Spreader

Bearing

Grip

Screw, Guard Clamp

Screw, Wing 5/16-18 x 2-3/4

Clamp, Guard

*Screw, Pan Hd. 8-32 x 1/2

*Lockwasher, External No. 8

*Nut, Hex 8-32

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

123

Always order by Part Number--Not by Key Number

FIGURE 7--TABLE ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

1 818169 Table, Rear

2 818168 Table Spacer

3 63432 Fence, Rip

4 818191 Table, Front

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

8 9

Always order by Part Number--Not by Key Number

FIGURE 8--LEG SET

Key Part

No. No.

1 818213

2 818163

3 815909

4 818170

5 STD541237

6 803835-1

7 805589-5

8 STD551225

9 STD541025

-- 507968

Description

Leg

Channel, Leg

Stiffener, Lower

Bracket, Leg

* Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16

Foot, Leveling

Screw, Truss Hd. 1;4-20 x 1/2

* Lockwasher, Internal 1/4

* Nut, 1/4-20

Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ilts.)

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally,

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.197110 & 113.197150

Always order by Part Number--Not by Key Number

FIGURE 9--MOTOR ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No.

1 507744

2 STD376116

3 64950

4 64951

5 64948

6 30582

Description

Housing, Motor

* Capacitor

Screw, Type "T"

Screw, Flat Head

Screw, Ground

Cap, Shaft

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Operators

Manual

SERVICE

MODEL NO.

113.197110

113.197150

10" RADIAL SAW

WITH LEG SET

HOW TO ORDER

REPAIR PARTS

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

Now that you have purchased your 10-inch radial saw, should a need

ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service

Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. stores. Be sure to provide all

pertinent facts when you call or visit.

The model number of your 10-inch radial saw will be found on a plate

attached to your saw, at the left-hand side of the base.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOW-

ING INFORMATION:

PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION

MODEL NUMBER

113.197110

113.197150

NAME OF ITEM

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears Service Center and most

Sears stores. Ifthe parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will

be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center

for handling.

j_..

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Part No. SP5249 Form No. SP5249-2 Printed in U.S.A. 2/91

CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Manual L0712074

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