Craftsman 113197250 User Manual RADIAL ARM SAW Manuals And Guides L0805382

CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Manual L0805382 CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Owner's Manual, CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial installation guides

User Manual: Craftsman 113197250 113197250 CRAFTSMAN RADIAL ARM SAW - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your CRAFTSMAN RADIAL ARM SAW #113197250. Home:Tool Parts:Craftsman Parts:Craftsman RADIAL ARM SAW Manual

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_ARS
Operators
Manual

MODEL NO.
113.197210
1O" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW WITH
23" CABINET AND
1 DOOR

\
\

113.197210

113.197250
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW WITH
LEG SET

Serial
Number
Model and serial numbers
may be found at the rear of
the base.
You should record both
model and serial number in
a safe place for future use.

CRRFTSMRN
10-INCH ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW

FOR YOUR
SAFETY:

• Assembly

READ ALL
INSTRUCTIONS

• Operating

CAREFULLY

• Repair parts

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK
Part No. SP5250

AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.
Printed in U.S.A.

FULLONEYEARWARRANTYONCRAFTSMANRADIALSAW
It wilhin

one year Irom the dale o! purchase,

workmanship,

Sears

will repair

WARRANTY

SERVICE

CENTER/DEPARTMENT
This warranly

it, free

this Craltsman

Radial Saw fails due to a delect

in material

of charge.

AVAILABLE

THROUGHOUT

SIMPLY

THE UNITED

CONTACTING

THE

NEAREST

SEARS

SERVICE

STATES.

applies only while this product is used in the United States.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
SEARS,

ROEBUCK

AND

CO.,

DEPT.

698/731A

Sears

Tower,

Chicago,

IL 60684

Table of Contents

Section

Title

Page

Safety Information
Putting

Your Saw Together

Location

Display

.........................................

...............................................

Accessories

Glossary

....................................................

Helpful

Hints ...............................................

Maintaining
Trouble

...............................

Your Saw ........................................

Shooting

............................................

Parts Lists ................................................

20-23
24-39

46-47

55-53

.......................................

Blade Guard Safety Information

7-19

48-54

..........................................

Accessories

3-6

40-45

..................................................

Recommended
Lower

..............................................

Connections

Crosscutting

Cutting

................................

of Blade ..........................................

Electrical

Ripping

......................................

and Function of Controls

Alignment
Digital

.............................................

Numbers

54-67
68
59
70
71-73
74-79
80-85
86-101

Safety Information
The operator's manual contains safety information, instructions and signs for your protection against serious injuries, including:
Loss of fingers, hand,
with the saw blade.

arm or leg from contact

Eye injuries, including being blinded from
being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the saw blade.
Impact injuries, including broken bones and
internal organ damage, from being hit by a
thrown workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces
of the saw blade.

Major
1. Workpiece

Hazards

Kickback

Kickback is an uncontrolled
grabbing and
throwing of the workpiece during ripping. If
kickback occurs, the workpiece can hit
you hard enough to cause broken bones, internal organ injury or death. To reduce or
prevent kickback, read and follow the safety
information
in the Ripping section of the
manual.

Kickback.
Shock,

electrocution,

contact

with

Safety

Symbol

or burn

wires,

motor

and

or other

Signal

The safety information
lighted by the following

injuries

from

Internal injury
result.

saw parts.

Words

can

Use anti-kickback
pawls/spreader.

in this manual
is highsafety alert symbol.

Fig 2 Kickback Safety Sign
2. Kickback

Followed

by Blade

Contact

Fig. 1 Safety Alert Symbol

The following signal words are used to indicate the level of risk.
DANGER:
Means that if the safety information is not followed, someone will be
seriously injured or killed.

_1_ WARNING:
Means that if the safety information is not followed someone could be
seriously injured or killed.
_lb

CAUTION:

formation
jured.

Means

is not followed

that if the safety insomeone

Kickback followed by blade contact can happen when the saw blade is pinched or bound
by the workpieee
during ripping. Kickback
can happen if you reach around the blade to
the end with the anti-kickback
pawls, (oatfeed end), and try to hold-down
or pull the
workpiece
through to complete the cut. Your
fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off by the
blade if the workpiece
kicks back.

Kickback,
Blade
Contact.

may be in-

All of the safety information
and cutting
steps are critical to the safe operation
of the
radial arm saw.

Fingers,
hand, arm
can be cut off.
Follow
for
Fig. 3 Blade Contact Safety Sign

instructions
Ripping

3. Wrong

Way

Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece
into the end of the saw with the anti-kickback
pawls. The work_iece
can be grabbed by the
blade and pull your hands into the blade
before you can let go or pull back. Fingers,
hand or arm can be cut off.

can

be blinded.

Wear safety
goggles.
Fig. 6 Safety Goggles Safety Sign

DANGER:
Follow the 8 steps listed
below to reduce or eliminate the risk of
being injured when using the radial arm
saw. Failure to do so can result in a life
threatening
injury or death.

Fig. 4 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign

If a workpiece is fed into the end of the saw
with the anti-kickback pawls, it can take off
like a missile. Anyone hit by the workpiece
can be killed. Feed the workpiece into the infeed end of the saw blade, the end that does
not have the anti-kickback pawls.

;'"-

.....

I Wrong

Way

Feed.

_sscutting
2. Set blade guard
when crosscutting.

and ripping.

in horizontal

3. Lower blade guard
ping.

position

nose only when rip-

4. Keep hands as far away from the blade
as possible when cutting.
_

Feed into infeed
I Workpiece
impact
end of saw.

O____

5. Return the saw to its rearmost
after each crosscut.

position

Fig. 5 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign

6. Wait until the blade has stopped turning before reaching for the work?iece
or
a_}thmg else on the table.
4. Thrown
Pieces

Workpiece

Chips and Blade

The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade violently. You
can be blinded. Wear safety goggles labeled
"ANSI Z87.1" on the package.

7. Read and follow the safety information
and safety instructions
in the operator's
manual and in the safety labels on the
radial arm saw.

8. Know location and function of all controis before using saw. See the Location
and Function of Controls section.

Personal

Saw

Safety

1. Wear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87.1"
on the package. Do not wear regular glasses,
they are not safety glasses.
2. Wear snug fitting clothes, short sleeve
shirts and nonslip footwear. Cover up or tie
long hair. Do not wear loose, baggy clothes,
gleves, neckties, rings, watches or any other
jewelry.
3. Wear a dust mask, with your safety goggles, if cutting operation
is dusty.

Work

Don't

over-

pawls in

2. Check for broken or damaged parts before
using saw. A damaged guard or other saw
part should be checked for alignment, binding, breakage and correct mounting to make
sure they are working properly. Repair or
replace damaged guards or other saw parts.

and

4. Use clamps or vice to hold workpiece
when practical. It's safer than using your
hands and frees them to operate the saw.
5. Do not force the saw, saw blade or accessories to do jobs they are not designed to do.

Area Safety

1. Keep children,
work

and balance.

1. Keep guards and anti-kickback
place and in working order.

3. Unplug saw before doing maintenance,
making adjustments,
and changing blades
accessories.

4. Wear hearing protectors,
ear plugs or
muffs, if you use the saw daily.
5. Keep good footing
reach.

Safety

pets and visitors

out of the

area.

2. Make the work area child proof. Remove
the yellow key from the red switch and place
it out of reach and sight. Lock work area.
3. Keep floors dry and free from sawdust,
or other slippery materials.
4. Keep work area clean, uncluttered
well lighted.

wax

and

5. Use the saw in a dry area. Do not use in
wet or damp area. Do not use outside.
6. Clear the table of all cbjects (adjusting
wrenches, tools, scraps of wood etc.) except
the workpiece to be cut, fixtures or clamps
before turning the saw on.
7. Do not do layout, assembly or setup work
on the table while the blade is turning.
8. Store items away from the saw. Do not
climb on the saw to reach items. Do not
stand on the table; the saw can tip over.

6. Make sure the yellow key is removed and
the red switch is in the off position before
plugging in the power cord.

7. Cut only wood, woodlike or plastic
materials. Do not cut metal materials.
8. Secure the saw to floor, wall, bench or
table if it slides, tips or walks during use.
9. Feed the workpiece against the direction
of rotation of the blade when ripping.
10. Turn the saw off before leaving work
area. Do not leave the saw until the blade
has stopped.

11. Lock the rip and miter locks before
moving the saw from one location to another.
12. Turn the saw off and remove yellow key if
the blade jams. Do not try to free a jammed
workpiece with the saw on.
13. Turn
or makes
problems

the saw off if it vibrates
excessively
an unfamiliar
noise. Correct
any
before

restarting

saw.

14. Rip workpieces
that are longer than the
diameter of the blade being used. Do not rip
a workpiece
that is shorter than the diameter
of the blade being used.

5. Do not overtighten
collar can be warped.

15. Cut

The following labels are on your radial arm
saw. Locate, read and follow the safety instructions
and information contained in these
labels.

only one workpiece

at a time.

not cut stacked
workpieces
to edge for cutting.

Workpiece

Support

or lay them

Do
edge

Safety Labels

table extensions

[ DANGER

TOOL FROM
THIS END

Fig. 7 Wrong Way Feed Label

2. Safety instruction
label located on the
front of the saw near the handwheel.
[ DANGER

over 24 inches wide

Follow the instructions
accessories.

SAFETY:

1. Read and understand
owner's manual
before operating machine.
2. Wear safety goggles complying with
ANSI Z87.1.
3. Keep hands out of path of saw blade.
4, Never reach around the saw blade.
5. Never perform any operation
"FREEHAND:'
6. Return carriage to the full rear position
after each cross-cut type operation,
7. Shut off power and allow saw blade to
stop before adjusting or servicing

Accessories

that come with the
manual

]

FOR YOUR OWN

are added to either side of the saw, make
sure you either bolt the saw to the floor or
support the outer end of the extension from
the floor with sturdy legs or an outrigger.
5. Use Only Recommended

on the out-

TO AVOID
INJURY DO NOT
FEED MATERIAL
INTO CUTTING

3. ttelpers can cause the workpiece
to kickback. Do not use other people to support or
assist in feeding or pulling the workpiece.
Use table extensions.

Fig, 8 Safety Instruction Label

for recommended
3. Ripping

The use of improper accessories
risk of injury to persons.

may cause

safety label located

[ DANGER

Blade Safety
1. Use blades

Arm Saw

1. Wrong way feed label located
feed end of the blade guard.

2. Helpers can be hit by a thrown workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade. Use
table extensions or other supports. Do not
use helpers.

Consult the owner's
accessories.

on the Radial

the blade

Safety

1. Use additional
supports for workpieces
which extend beyond the saw table. Large
workpieces
can shift, twist, rise from table or
fall after they are cut.

4. When

the blade;

un_wl_l_l

on the motor.

[ WHEN RIPPING

1. R4t_

I_,d

2. _1

_gl_

OWTNW'$ mlmuM

3, Klmp
4. Know

hired= otlt of l_lth of sew b_.
hOW Io #_k:l _KICKBACKS?

_g remcl_k, te.
€omplying

S. Ule

"PUSH

STICK"

fo_ rmrrow

work

7_ Nev_
orm tony ope_t}o,n
6. "FREt
Nev_ H_A_rl.
flinch mrour_
"
t h_ saw blade.

wh11

8, Shut
MOp

off power m_l
before Kljusti_

allow IklW I_qKIll tO
Or _.rvi¢ing.

marked for 3450 rpm or higher.

2. Do not use blades
diameter.

larger

than 10 inches

3. Keep blade sharp

and clean.

cutting tool FT!OM TH_ B40 ONLY
TO AVOID
RUNAWAY
WORKP!IECE
ALWAYS
_ AT OUTFEED
WORXPIECE
k_,to
DANGER
Workpi4bco
c4_ smc_d4_W k_k _BCk

pul

MOtOr:

4. Do not cycle motor switch on and off rapidly; the blade can loosen.

120Volts

11.0Ampl

Fig. 9 Ripping

3450

R.P.M.

Safety Label

h,t_do

60Hz.

int o arKI und_

t Phase

r.utU_l

@tool

ModelC48HM'275

Putting

Your Saw Together

Your radial arm saw is easy to put together,
however it will take time. Ask a friend to
help, and follow these assembly instructions.
It is important for your safety, and for the
quality of your cuts, that the saw be put
together with care.
This manual was written for two different
models of the radial arm saw: model
113.197210 with cabinet and door, and model
113.197250 with leg set.
The following assembly sections should be
followed for both models:

The following
113.197210:

A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K

parts

are included

with model

Basic Saw Assembly ............
Rear Table ....................
Table Spacer ..................
Rip Fence .....................
Front Table ....................
Operators Manual ...............
Loose Parts Bag ................
Table Mounting, Channel ........
Trim Cap, R.H .................
Trim Cap, L.H .................
23" Cabinet with Door ..........

Unpacking / Set up
Information
Attaching Handwheel
Mounting Motor
Mounting Saw'
Attaching Trim Ledge and Trim Caps
Mounting Table Locks
Mounting the Front Table

l
1
1
1
1
1
5
2
1
1
1

All other sections are labelled with the correct
model number. Follow ONLY instructions
that are meant for your model saw. Both
models work in the same way once they are
put together.
_1_ WARNING:

Plugging

the saw in

during assembly can result in electrical
shock or your fingers, hand, or arm being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during assembly. The saw should only be
plugged in when it is to be used.

Unpacking/Set
Both

Models

I As you unpack, try to keep the contents of
each of the smaller bags together and separate
from the others. This will help you identify and
locate the parts you need during assembly,

Fig. 10 - Parts for Mode1113.197210

The following
113.197250:

parts are included with model

MEDIUM

A
B

Basic Saw Assembly
............
Rear Table ....................

1
1

C
D
E

Table Spacer
..................
Rip Fence ......................
Front Table
...................

1
1
1

F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M

Operators Manual
..............
Loose Parts Bag ...............
Table Mounting
Channel ........
Trim Cap, R.H .................
Trim Cap, L.H .................
Leg ..........................
Lower Stiffener
................
"U"-Channel
..................

1
5
2
1
1
4
4
1

7/16" WRENCH
1/2" WRENCH

#2 PHILLIPS

314" WRENCH
{_
314"

SCREWDRIVER

HAMMER

SOCKET

9/16" SOCKET

::'::':_-"

"--

FRAMING

PLIERS

SOCKET

WRENCH

SOCKET

-'--:_

PENCIL

EXTENSION

3/16"

HEX "L" WRENCH

Fig. 12 - Tools Required

4. Open the loose parts bags, and sort the
contents into piles on the floor or table. This
will make it easier for you to find the part(s)
you need during assembly.

The following loose parts are included
model 113.197210:

_;|

AA
AB

Leveling
Hex Jam

Foot
.................
Nut 3/8-16
............

Truss

External

Lockwasher

Hex

I/4-20

Hd.

Bolt

Nut

Fig. 11 - Parts for Model 113.197250

2. Identify the large parts of your saw before
beginning
each section. Your task will be
easier if you are familiar with these parts.
3. Identify
Make sure

the tools required
for assembly.
that you have all of the tools you

wild need.

(Figure

12)

SQUARE

1/4-20

x 1/2
1/4

with

4
8
.....

.......

...............

42
42
42

AF
AG
AH
AI
AJ
AK
AL
AM

Hex Hd. Screw 5/16-18 x 3/4
....
Washer 11/32x 7/8x 1/16
.......
Lockwasher
5/16
...............
Hex Nut 5/16-18
...............
Pan Hd. Screw 1/4-20 x 1
.......
Washer 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
.......
Lockwasher
1/4
................
Hex Nut 1/4-20
................

AN
AO
AP
AQ

Table Clamp ....................
2
Tee Nut ........................
1
Cup Point Set Screw 1/4-20 x 7/8 .. 1
Pan Hd. Screw Ty T
1/4-20 x 1-3/4 .................
1
"U" Clip 1/4-20 .................
1
Pan Hd. Screw #6-10 x 1/2 ........
2
Pan Hd. Screw Ty "T" 6-32 x 3/8 . 2
Pan Hd. Screw #10-10 x 1/2 .......
4
Magnetic Catch
.................
1
Door Hinge .....................
2
Yoke Plug ......................
1
Switch Key .....................
1
Battery .........................
1
Pan Hd. Screw 10-32 x 1/2 ........
1
Battery Cover ...................
1
External Lockwasher
#10 .........
1
Handwheel
.....................
1
Arbor Wrenches
.................
2
Casters ............................
2
Hex Bushing .......................
1

AR
AS
AT
AU
AV
AW
AX
AY
AZ
BA
BB
BC
BD
BE
BF
BG

4
4
4
4
4
5
4
4

(3_

( AK

The following
loose
model 113.197250:

parts are included

with
BX

BG
BH
BJ
BK
BL
BM
BN
BO
BP

Leveling Feet ....................
Hex Nuts 3/8-16 .................
Truss Head Bolts 1/4-20 x 1/2 ....
Lockwashers
1/4 ................
Hex Nuts 1/4-20 ................
Hex Hd. Screw 5/16-18 x 3/4 ......
Washer 11/32 x 7/8 x 1/16 ........
Lockwasher
5/16 ................
Hex Nut 5/16-18 .................

4
8
32
32
32
4
4
4
4

BQ
BR
BS
BT
BU
BV
BW
BX

Pan Hd. Screw 1/4-20 x 1 .........
Washer 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32 ........
Lockwasher
1/4 .................
Hex Nut 1/4-20 ..................
Table Clamp ....................
Tee Nut ........................
Cup Point Set Screw 1/4-20 x 7/8
Pan Hd. Screw Ty T
1/4-20 x 1-3/4 .................

4
5
4
4
2
1
1

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2

CH
CI

4
1

CG
CB
CH
cc

Information

BY "U" Clip 1/4-20 ................
BZ Yoke Plug ......................
CA Switch Key .....................
CB Battery .........................
CC Pan Hd. Screw 10-32 x 1/2 ........
CD External Lockwasher
#10 .........
CE BatteD' Cover ...................
CF Handwheel
.....................
CG Arbor Wrench ..................
Bracket, Leg .......................
Hex Bushing .......................

BOTH

MODELS

1. If you are missing any part while putting
your saw together, do not continue assembly.
Contact your Sears Service Center or Retail
Store and get the missing part before continuing assembly or trying to use the saw.
Complete
parts lists are located at the end of
this manual. Use these lists to identify the
number of any missing part.
2. Sometimes
small parts get lost in packaging materials.
Do not throw away any packaging until your saw is put together. If you
are missing a part, check the packaging before contacting
Sears.

3. Most parts of your radial arm saw will be
fastened together using truss head bolts, lockwashers, and hex nuts of the sizes shown.
(Figure 13) When different sizes are needed,
the instructions
will include a sketch to help
you locate the correct size.

Fig. t3 - Truss Head Bolt, Lockwasher,
10

Hex Nut

4. As you assemble your radial arm saw,
some of the holes in the parts will line up and
others will not. This happens because some
parts are used in other equipment
or for other
purposes. Follow the instructions
carefully.
The figures will show which holes should line
up in each step.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw and
remove the guard from the motor.
2. Use the arbor wrenches to remove the
blade from the saw. The arbor shaft has lefthanded threads, so you will have to turn the
nut clockwise
to loosen.
3. Lock the rip lock.

Attaching

Handwheei

4. Turn the handwheel in a clockwise direction
to raise the radial arm about 2 inches and

BOTH MODELS

remove

1. Locate the handwheel,
and lockwasher.

hex bushing,

screw,

the styrofoam

packing

blocks.

5. Clean the small pieces of styrofoam off
the saw.

2. Place the hex bushing inside the handwheel.

6. Place the motor on the center channel of
the saw and remove the three table boards

3. The hex bushing has a small flat area on it
which matches a flat area on the elevation
shaft.

and fence.

7. Remove the lock nut and flat washer from
the motorpivot support. (Figure 13C)

4. Align the two above flat areas and attach
the handwheel using a screw and lockwasher.
Motor Pivot

) _)_-_
_i,

JP""-_L "-

/f!

Handwheel

Rg. 13A

Sm©©
Fig. 13C
Fig. 13B - Screw, External Lockwasher
Bushing

and Hex

8. Slide the bevel encoder to the top center
position so it will fit into the notch on the
motor support bracket. (Figure 13C)

Mounting the Motor
BOTH MODELS
_Ib'WARNING:

Plugging

9. Slide the motor onto the motor pivot support. Make sure the motor is firmly in place.

the saw in

during assembly can result in electrical
shock or your fingers, hand, or arm
being cut off from blade contact. Do
not plug in the saw at any time during
assembly. The saw should only be
plugged in when it is to be used.

10. Put the flat washer

and locknut

back in

place and tighten using a 3/4 inch socket
wrench. Move the bevel lock back and forth
as you tighten
tighten.
11

the locknut.

Do not over-

11. Push the bevel lock to the left as far as it
will go. (Figure 13D)

A Right Side Panel ...............
B Left Side Panel ................
C Lower Shelf ...................
D Skirt .........................
E Shelf Stiffener
.................
F Corner Bracket
................
G Spacer
.......................
H Door .........................
I Caster ........................

12. If there is a 1/16 inch gap or less between
the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke
(and they are not touching),
go to step 14, or

1
1
1
2
1
2
2
1
2

Bevel Lock

FTg.13D

If the bevel lock touches the left side of the
yoke, unlock the bevel lock and tighten the
locknut on the motor pivot support. Then go
to step 10 and repeat, or

Fig. 14- Cabinet Assembly - 113.197210

If there is more than 1/16 inch gap between
the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke,
unlock the bevel lock and loosen the locknut
on the motor pivot
10 and repeat.

support.

1. Turn the shelf upside down on the floor.
The wide edge should point down, and the
three narrow edges should point up.
(Figure 15)

Then go to step

13. Repeat
steps 10-11 until the bevel lock will
not touch the left side of the yoke, and the gap
is not more than 1/16 inch.
14.

I._k

the bevel

Shelf

lock.

15. Snap the yoke plug into place.
plug is in the loose parts bag.

The yoke

Corner
Brackets

Beginning the Cabinet
MODEL

Fig. 15

113.197210

The following parts are used in the cabinet
assembly for model 113.197210:

2. Put a corner bracket
the shelf. (Figure 15)
12

in the front corners

3. Put two truss head bolls through the shelf
and each corner bracket to hold the brackets
in place•
4. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut on each bolt
and tighten with a 7/16 inch wrench or
socket.
5. Put the shelf stiffener on the shelf
up the holes. (Figure 16)

and line
Fig. 17

9. Turn the right side panel so that the Jshaped slot is at the bottom and facing you.
Shelf Stiffener

10.

Put a spacer

shown.
holes

The
should

side

inside

the right

of the spacer

be opposite

side

with

the J-shaped

panel

two

round
slot in

the side panel,
and the side with one larger
hole should be on the bottom.
(Figure
18)

Right Side Panel

-Shaped Slot
Truss

Head

Bolt

Spacer

Hex Nut
--_

_und_H_

Lockwasher

Fig. 16

One Larger

Hole

Fig. 18

6. Put the casters (wheels) on the shelf and
shelf stiffener.
Since the shelf is upside down,
the wheels will point up. Line up four holes
on each side. (Figure 16)

11. Put two truss head bolts through right
side panel and spacer, one on each side.

7. Put truss head bolts through the holes on
each side. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on

12. Put a lockwasher

each bolt and tighten
wrench or socket.

using a 7/16 inch

bolt and tighten
socket.

left side

Find

the

right

and

panels.

Look

right

stamps
side panel

are the easiest
from

the left.

way

to tell the

(Figure

using a 7/16 inch wrench

13. Put aplastic cover over the J-shaped
in the side panel. (Figure 18)

carefully
to find the "R"
and "L"
stamped
in the metal near the center of the wide edge.
These

and hex nut on each

14.

!7 )

panel.
13

Repeat

steps

9-13

with

the left side

slot

15. Attach two hinges to the right side panel
above the spacer, using four truss head bolts,
lockwashers,
and hex nuts. Tighten with a
7/16 inch wrench. (Figure 19)

18. Put
holes
panel.
bolt

truss

along

bolts

bottom

through
edge

Put a lockwasher
and

socket.
Note:

tighten

use a Phillips
into

the three

of the right
hex

a 7/16

side

nut on each

inch

wrench

20)

It is sometimes
these

and

using

(Figure

through
parts

head
the

three

difficult
holes.

screwdriver

You

to get bolts
may

to help

need

shift the

place.

19. Repeat steps 17-18 with the left side
panel and the left side of the shelJ:
.,..---- Right Side
Panel

20. Turn the cabinet right side up. Attach the
skirts to the top of the side panels, with one
on the front of the cabinet and the other on
the back.

(Figure

21)
Rear Skirt
ht Side Panel

Spacer
Fig. !9

\
\

16. Lay the shelf on the rear
bottom
side toward
you. The
the lower

support

should

point

edge with the
angled
end of

up.

17. Place the right side panel on the right
side of the shelf. The _pacer should be on the
inside of the cabinet. (Figure 20)

Front
Skirt
Shelf
Left Side
Panel
Fig. 21

Corner

Brackets

Shelf

Shelf Stiffener

21. Use eight truss head bolts, lockwashers,
and hex nuts to hold the skirts in place. Handtighten. (Figure 21)

-_
Rear Flange

Fig. 20

Right Side
Panel
"_

22. Put a truss head bolt through the hole at
the back, right corner of the shelf. This hole
goes through the shelf and the right side
panel. (Figure22)

Right

27.

Repeat

28.

Move

you

will use your

29.

Put a hex

Side Panel

steps

25-26

with

the left spacer.

Rear

(Figure

the cabinet

to the location

where

saw.

nut on each

of the leveling

feet.

24)

Shelf

Front
Fig. 24 - Hex Nut for Leveling

Fig. 22

23.

Put a lockwasher

and tighten
socket.

using a 7/16 inch wrench

24.

steps 22-23 on the left side of the

Repeat

30.

and hex nut on the bolt
or

corners

feet

through

of the side panels,

the holes

at the four

of the shelf.

hex nut on each of the

leveling feet and hand-tighten
against the side panels.
_lb WARNING:

25. Put a truss head bolt through the back of
the right spacer and front edge of the shelf.
(Figure 23)

until they are

Saw blade can roll for-

ward toward you if the leveling feet are
not correctly adjusted.
Workpiece
or
saw can move unexpectedly
if cabinet
rocks. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off from blade contact. Adjust leveling
feet before using your saw.

Shelf

the leveling

31. Put another

shelf.

Spacer

Put

the bottom

Foot

32. If the leveling feet raise the front of the
saw slightly higher than the rear, and if the
cabinet does not rock, go to step 38, or

)

If the leveling feet do not raise the front of
the saw slightly higher than the rear, go to
step 33, or
I

Side Panel

If the cabinet

rocks,

go to step 33.

Fig. 23

26.

Put a lockwasher

and tighten
socket.

using

and

a 7/16

hex
inch

33. Loosen the bottom hex nut on the desired
leveling foot using a 9/16 inch wrench.

nut on the bolt
wrench

34.

Loosen

the top nut by hand.

35. Adjust the lower nut with the 9/16 inch
wrench until the levelingJoot
is at the desired
height.
36. Tighten

Fig. 27 - Pan Head Screw

the top nut by hand.

37. Repeat steps 33-36 for the other three
leveling feet if necessary.

3. Attach the door to the hinges on the side
panel using four plastite screws. Tighten with
a Phillips screwdriver.
(Figure 28)

38. Tighten all four bottom nuts using a 9/16
inch wrench.
Attaching

Door
Magnetic

Magnetic

Catch

Fig. 28 - Plastite Screw

4. Attach a magnetic stop plate to the two
small holes on the side of the front support
using four pan head screws. Tighten with a
Phillips screwdriver.
(Figures 29 & 30)

Stop Plate

Front Support

Fig, 25 - Parts for Door Assembly

-4-- Magnetic

Plate

Pan Head Screw

1. Put a magnetic catch on the inside edge of
the door. (Figure26)

2. Fasten using two pan head screws. Tighten
with a Phillips screwdriver.
(Figure 26 & 27 )
Fig. 29
Door
/

Fig. 30 - Pan Head Screw

Magnetic

Stop

Catch

Fig. 26

Mounting

the Saw to Cabinet

1. Hold the saw by the front edge and the
back of the column support, and lift it onto
the cabinet. It may be necessary to have
someone help you lift the saw. Make sure that
four holes in the bottom of the saw line up
with four holes in the top of the cabinet.

Fig. 32 - Support Bracket, LevelingFoot

Leg

2. Fasten the saw to the cabinet with four
truss head bolts. Put a lockwasher and hex nut
on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket.
0_igure 31)

Support Bracket

Fig. 33

Truss Head Bolt

saw

,-1o,

II
[

Cabine__jj
kockwasher-_

Cabinet

?(Top

2. Put a hex nut on each of the levering feet.
Put the levering feet through the holes in the
bottom of the J7oor leveler support bracket.

[

View)_

3. Put another hex nut on each of the leverng
feet and hand-tighten until they are against the
leg.

Hex Nut

Fig. 31

3. Check all the nuts holding the cabinet
together and tighten them using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket.

Leg

Nuts

Attaching the Leg Set
MODEL

Support Bracket

113.197250

_Leveling

1. Mount floor leveler support brackets inside
legs. Line up the three tabs on brackets with
slot on leg and tap into place. Make sure lip
on bracket points up. (Figure 33)

Fig. 34

Install the remaining three brackets the same
way.

Foot

Building the LEG SET
The following
assembly:
A
B

4. Mount the two front legs to the basic saw
assembly using truss head bolts, lockwashers,
and nuts. However only put bolts through the
sides of the saw assembly not the front.

parts are used in the leg set

Legs ..........................
Lower Stiffeners
................

4
4
A

Fig. 37 - Bolt, External Lockwasher,
Hex Nut, U-Channel
B
A

Channel

Fig. 35 - Leg Set
Nut and
Lockwasher

1.' Lay a piece of cardboard on the floor to
keep from scratching the saw.
2. Position the basic saw assembly on the
floor as shown below. The arm assembly
should be pointing up in a vertical position
and the column support cover should be
resting flat on the floor. It may be necessary
have someone help you lift the saw.

Leg

L--...
Truss Head Screw

Fig. 38
Sw_tch

Front
_Front

Ill

5. Position the front channelpiece
inside the
legset. (Figure 38) Fasten the channelpiece,
leg, and saw together with two truss head
bolts on each side. Put a lockwasher and hex
nut on each bolt. The threaded section of the
bolt should point towards the arm assembly.

Legs Are

A.aohed.ero

hr---f'_l

LI// \

L4[_-%-L_Attached

Rear Legs Are
Here

Column Support
Cover

Fig. 36

3. Use truss head bolts, lockwashers,
and nuts
(see Fig. 12) to mount the two rear legs to the
basicsaw assembly. Make sure that the four
holes in each corner of the saw line up with
four holes in the top of each leg. Finger
tighten nuts at this time.

Truss Head _*_
Bolt

3. Loosen

the top nut by hand.

4. Adjust the lower nut with the 9/16 inch
wrench until the leveling foot is at the desired
height.
5. Tighten

the top nut by hand.

6. Repeat steps 8-11 for the other three
leveling feet if necessary.
Fig. 39

7. Tighten all four bottom nuts using a 9/16
inch wrench.

6. Attach the four (4) lower stiffeners to the
legs. Two (2) truss head bolts, washers, and
nuts are required to hold each end of a lower
stiffener in place. Hand tighten hex nuts.
7. Go back with a 7/16 wrench
tighten all hex nuts.

or socket

and

Attaching Trim Caps

8. Carefully lift the saw into its normal
position. It will be necessary to have someone
help you in order to avoid damaging the saw.

BOTH

Adjusting

2. There are two plastic stubs on the back of
each trim cap.

_Ib

1. Find the left and right trim caps.
Leveling Feet

WARNING:

MODELS

Saw blade can roll

forward toward you if the leveling feet are
not correctly adjusted. Workpiece or saw
can move unexpectedly
if cabinet rocks.
Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off from
blade contact. Adjust leveling feet before
using your saw.

3. These stubs will snap into matching
at the front corners of the saw.

holes

4. Snap the left and right trim caps into place.

1. If the leveling feet raise the front of the saw
slightly higher than the rear, and if the leg set
does not rock, go to step 13, or
If the leveling feet do not raise the front of the
saw slightly higher than the rear, go to step 8,
or

If the leg set rocks, go to step 8.
2. Loosen the bottom hex nut on the desired
leveling foot using a 9/16 inch wrench.

Location

and Function

of Controls

) i
iii! i

113.197210

113.197250

Fig. 45 - Radial Saw Controls

On/Off
The on/off switch
on and off.

Switch

turns the power

_1_ WARNING:

right.

To turn

to the left.
red switch
and

keep

children.

the saw

Remove
whenever

off.

into
to the

the red

switch

WARNING:
The saw will start immediately when the power comes back
on after a blackout if the red switch is

the yellow
key from the
the saw is turned off,

it out of the reach
(Figure

push

cidentally
or be used by children and
others when the yellow key is left in the
red switch. Always remove the yellow
key when the saw is off, and keep it out
of the reach and sight of children.

to the saw

To turn the saw on, put the yellow key
the red xwitch
and then pull the switch

and

sight

The saw can start ac-

left on. Always turn the switch off and
remove the yellow key when the power
goes off for any reason.

46)

Miter Lock
The miter lock is used to hold the radial
at various angles to the fence.

arm

To unlock the miter lock, pull the lock to the
right. (Figure 47)

Fig. 46 - On/Off

Switch

Bevel

Lock

The bevel lock is used to hold the blade at
various angles to the table. To unlock the bevel
lock, move the lock to the right. Always hold
the motor when you unlock the bevel lock.
(Figure 49)
CAUTION:
The motor is heavy and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured by the arbor shaft or blade.
Hold the motor when you unlock the
bevel lock.

Fig. 47- Miter Lock - Unlocked

To lock the miter lock, push the lock to the
left. (Figure 48)

Fig. 49 - Bevel Lock - Unlocked

To lock the bevel lock, move the lock to the
left. (Figure 50)

Fig. 48 - Miter Lock - Locked

There are three pre-set miter angles at 45 °,
0°, and -45 °. You will feel the radial arm
snap into position at these miter angles. To
unlock the arm when it is in one of these positions, pull the miter lock all the way to the
right and move the ann as you hold the lock
in this position.

Fig. 50 - Bevel Lock- Locked
21

swivel lock when

There are five pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,
-45 °, 0°, 45 °, and 90 °. To unlock the bevel
lock when the blade is at one of these angles,
move the bevel lock all the way to the right
and turn the motor while holding the lock in
this position.

the motor

is in one of these

positions, stand facing the saw handle, pull
the swivel lock all the way toward you, and
turn the motor as you hold the lock in this
position.

Rip Lock

Swivel Lock

The rip lock is used to hold the motor and
blade at a fixed position along the radial arm.
It is used during ripping to hold the blade a
desired distance from the fence while the

The swivel lock is used to hold the blade in the
crosscut, in-rip, or out-rip positions, and to
position the blade for molding or edging. To
unlock the swivel lock, stand facing the saw
handle and pull the swivel lock toward you.
(Figure 51)

workpiece
is fed through. It is used before
and after each crosscut to keep the blade
from moving forward on its own.
To unlock the rip lock, pull the handle
the front of the arm. (Figure 53)

toward

Fig. 51 - Swive! Lock - Unlocked

To lock the swivel lock, stand facing the saw
handle and push the swivel lock away from
you. (Figure 52)

Fig. 53 - Rip Lock - Un!ocked

To lock the rip lock, push the handle
the rear of the arm. (Figure 54)

toward

5{_i

Fig. 52 - Swivel Lock - Locked

The crosscut, in-rip, and out-rip positions of
tile blade are pre-set positions. To unlock tile

Fig. 54- Rip Lock- Locked

Handwheel
The handwheel
radial arm.

controls

the height

of the

To raise the radial arm, turn the handwheel
clockwise. To lower the radial arm, turn the
handwheel counterclockwise.
(Figure 55)

Fig. 55 - Handwheet

One complete turn of the handwheel
the arm !/16 inch.

moves

The handle
can be folded in by squeezing
red plastic
"ears" with your thumb
and
finger while pushing
the handle
in.

the
index

All Controls
Always lock the miter, swivel and bevel locks
before making a cut on your radial arm saw.
When ripping, the rip lock must also be locked. When crosscutting,
the rip lock should be
locked before and after each cut, when the
saw is in the rearmost
position.

Alignment
ALIGNMENT
MOST

OF THE

IMPORTANT

ASSEMBLING

BLADE

STEP

YOUR

of the Blade

IS THE

1. Use a 3/16 hex "L" wrench to loosen the
four screws in the front of the column
support. (Figure 56)

RADIAL

ARM

SAW.

The blade of your radial arm saw must be
aligned properly for two reasons: to make
cuts accurate, and to prevent binding of the
blade and workpiece
which can cause jams or
thrown workpieces.
These adjustments
must be done in order,
before using your saw for the first time. If
they are not done in order the saw will not
cut accurately. If you miss an adjustment,
you
must go back to the adjustment
you missed
and repeat all steps from that point on.
These adjustments
are like finetuning
a
piece of equipment.
Often a series of steps
must be repeated
more than once in order to
get the adjustment
just right.

2. Raise and lower the radial arm by turning
the handwheel a few turns in each direction.
It should take about the same amount of effort to lower the arm as to raise it.

A
mLWARNING:
Plugging the saw in
during alignment
can result in electrical
shock or your fingers, hand, or arm
being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during alignment. The saw should only be plugged
in when it is to be used.

3. If movement
seems smooth and the
column does not rock back and forth, go to
the next section, or

Make

sure

that

the blade

and

blade

guard

removed
from the arbor shaft before
ning to align your saw. Do not install
blade or blade
to do so.

guard

Adjusting

until

you are

If movement seems difficult, loosen the four
bolts in the back of the column slightly
(Figure 57) and go back to step 2, or
If column rocks back and forth, tighten the
four bolts in the back of the column slightly
(Figure 57) and go back to step 2.

are

beginthe

instructed

Elevation

The goal of this adjustment
is to make upward and downward movement
of the radial
arm smooth and firm. If the column that supports the arm is too tight it will be difficult to
move the arm up and down and to get accurate depth of cut. If the column is loose the
blade may "walk" on the workpiece
and stall
the motor, or cause a heel in bevel and compound cuts.
24

Fig. 57

Leveling Table Supports
1. Raise the radial arm until the bottom of
the motor is about 2-1/2 inches above the
saw.

6. Turn the motor until the arbor shaft is
pointing straight down toward the saw.
(Figure 60)

2. Locate four hex head bolts and put a flat
washer on each.
3. Attach a table support to each
saw using the four hex head bolts
washers. (Figure 58 & 59) Put the
through the center of the enlarged
table supports so that the supports
up or down as needed.

side of the
and flat
bolts
holes in the
may slide
Arbor

LOCKWASHER
TABLE
SUPPORT

Rear

Wrench

Bolt

NUT
TABLE
)RT

Fig. 60
SCREWS
HERE

7. Lock the bevel lock to hold the motor

this position.
8. Unlock the miter lock and move the arm to
the left as far as it will go (about 50 ° miter).

HEXHEADSCREW
5/16-18X3/4

9. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
until the arbor shaft is over the left table
support.
(Figure 60)

FRONT

Fig. 58
MOUNT

RAILS

USING

!0. Mark the point on the table support
der the center of the arbor shaft.

THESE HOLES

11. Place the arbor wrench over this point
and lower the arm until the arbor shaft is just
touching the wrench. The wrench should slide
back and forth with slight contact. (Figure 60)

Fig. 59 - Hex Head Bolt, Washer, Lockwasher
and Hex Nut

4. Put a lockwasher

and hex nut on each bolt

12. Tighten the rear bolt under
using a 1/2 inch wrench.

and hand-tighten.
5. Unlock the bevel lock to release the motor.
Hold onto the motor as you do this.

,0"

un-

this point

13. Move the arm and motor until the arbor
shaft is over the front bolt on the left table
support. Do not change the elevation of the
arm as you move from point to point.
(Figure 61)

CAUTION:
The motor is heavy and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the arbor shaft hits you. Hold
the motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

If the arbor

wrench

will not fit between

the

arbor shaft and the table support at any point,
repeat steps 8-21 until the table supports are
level, or
If there is a gap between the arbor wrench
and the arbor shaft at any point, repeat steps
8-21 until the table supports are level.

Front
Table
Rear

Bolt

Support

Bolt

Fig. 61

__or

Wrench

14. Mark the point on the table support under
the center of the arbor shaft. (Figure 62)

15. Place the arbor wrench over this point.
(Figure 62)
16.

Slide

the front

end

of the table

up or down

until

wrench

fits between

this point

The

should

arbor
and

just
shaft,

forth

with

the handle
wrench

slight

Rear

support

Table

end of the arbor
and the

slide

back

Fig. 62

contact.

17. Tighten the bolt under this point using a
1/2 inch wrench.
18. Repeat steps 13-17 with the arbor shaft
over the front and rear bolts on the right table
support. Slide the rear end of the table support up or down when the arbor shaft is over
the rear bolt (see step 16).
19. Move
again.
20.
and
ches
back

the arbor

Bolt

shaft over all four points

Place the arbor wrench over each point
make sure that the arbor shaft just touthe wrench. The wrench should slide
and forth with slight contact.

2 !. If the arbor shaft just touches the arbor
wrench at each point, go to the next section,
or

Support

Mounting

the Front Table

!. Make sure that the front
down.

table is upside

2. Place a tee nut over the leveling hole and
hammer it into place. (Figure 63 & 64)

Set Screw

Leveling

Bolt

Tee Nut

'_Pan
_5-="--Washe

Head

Screw

Washer

J/_

Lock

Hex Nut

Mounting

Holes

Fig. 67

Fig.63

5. Start the cuppoint
set screw through the
leveling hole. Do not tighten. (Figures 67 &

68)
Fig. 64 - Nut Tee

3. Slide a U-clip onto the center channel of
the saw as shown. (Figure 65 & 66)
Fig. 68 - Cup Point Set Screw
U-Clip

6. Put a washer in each of the mounting
holes. (Figures 67 & 69)

Q
Fig. 69 - Washer for Mounting

Holes

7. Start a pan head machh_e screw through
the center mounting hole. Do not tighten.
(Figures 67 & 70)

Fig. 65

Fig. 66- U Clip

4. Place the front table on the saw so that the
mounting
holes in the table line up with holes
in the table supports and center channel of
saw. (Figure 67)

Fig. 70 - Pan Head Machine Screw

Hole

8. Install the pan head bolts through the other
four mounting holes. Put a lockwasher
and
hex nut on each bolt and tighten using a
Phillips screwdriver. (Figures 67 & 71)

13. If there is a gap larger than 1/32 inch, go
back to step I 1 and repeat, or
If there is a gap less than 1/32 inch,
at all, go to the next section.

or no gap

Squaring Crosscut Travel
Fig, 71- Pan Head Bo#

The blade must travel perpendicular
to the
fence along the radial arm in order for crosscuts to be accurate.
If the radial ann is not

9. Lay the edge of the rear table across the
center of the front table, and check to see if
there is a gap between the two. (Figure 72)

perpendicular
to the fence, there will be a
slight miter angle in all crosscuts.
WARNING:

Plugging

in the saw dur-

ing alignment
can result in your fingers,
hands, or arm being cut off from blade
contact. Do not plug in the saw at any
time during alignment.
The saw should
only be plugged in when it is to be used.
1. Place the radial arm in the 0° miter
position and lock the miter lock.
Fig. 72

2. Raise

the radial

the front

10. If there is a gap larger
to step l 1, or

than 1/32 inch,

center
gaps.

of the front

of the rear
table

and

table

across

check

again

above

table.

, -_-_i _
!,

If the gap is at the sides of the table, tighten
the center mounting screw until the gap is
gone. Then tighten the leveling screw and go
to step 12.
the edge

2 inches

3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor
so that the arbor is perpendicular
to the table.
(Figure 73)

11. If the gap is at the center of the table,
tighten the leveling screw until the gap is
gone. Then tighten the center mounting screw
and go to step 12, or

Lay

about

If there is a gap less than 1/32 inch, or no gap
at all, tighten the leveling screw and the center mounting screw. Do not overtighten.
Then
go to step 12.

12.

arm

the
Fig. 73

for

,'_ (--]l

_L_

4. L: nlock
until

the rip lock

the

motor

arbor

and

move

is over

the motor

the front

if the motor

table.

square,

arbor

tighten

If the motor
square,

arbor

arm
screw

7. Lay a framing square on the front table
with the long edge along the back of the table
and the short edge alongside the motor arbor.
(Figure 74)

arbor

the rip lock

back

shown

and

framing
10. If the

motor

If the motor
step

along

move

to move

the

arbor

tighten

the top

to the right.
to meet

tried
Then

to "walk"
left screw
tighten

the column.

on the
to move

the

the top right

Go to step

13.

Four Socket
Head Screws
I

the motor

the radial

Do not

screw

the

move

arm

the

square.

at all points,
15, or

square

forth

by the arrows.

and

right

from

8. glove the framing square toward the motor
arbor until the arbor and square touch each
other. (Figure 74)
9. Unlock

the top

away

arm to the left. Then tighten
the top left screw
to meet the column.
Go to step 14, or

5. Lock the rip lock, miter lock and bevel
locA .
6. Lower the radial arm until the motor
is slightly above front table.

moved

arbor

just touches

no change

arbor

is needed.

moves

or tries to "walk"
11. (Figure

away

the

square
13. Move

Go to step

from

the

on top of it, go to

74)

the motor

radial

arm.

arbor

just

Then

go to step

back

Repeat
touches

step

and

forth

12 until

the square

the

along

the

motor

at all points.

14.

14. Tighten

the bottom

the column

support,

screws
switching

in the front
from

right

of
to

left several
times so that you do not force the
radial arm out of line. Do not overtighten
or
it will be difficult
to raise and lower the radial
arm.

15. Raise and lower
difficult, loosen the
the column support
Loosen all of these

the radial arm. If this is
four screws in the front of
slightly and try again.
screws the same amount so

that you do not force the radial arm out of
line.
16. Repeat step 15 until movement of the
radial arm is smooth but firm. Then go to step
17.

11. Use 3/16 hex "L" wrench to loosen the
four screws in the front of the column support
slightly, if you have not already done so in the
Adjusting Elevation section. (Figure 75)
12. Use the top two screws
arm into line:

to move

17. Lay a framing
square
with the long edge along

the radial

and the short
before.
9q

edge

on the front table
the back of the table

alongside

the blade,

18. Move

the framing

motor arbor
each other.
19. Move
along

until

the radial

square

go back

arbor

arm.

just

to step

back

and

touches

away

touch

forth

move

the square.

the edge

21, or

from

to "walk"

12 and

the

square

go to step

moves

or tries

and

Do not

arbor

square

towards

arbor

at all points,

If the motor
of the

the

the motor

20. If the motor
the

square

1. Drop square
bracket.

the edge

on top

of it,

2. Turn thumbscrew
comes approximately

repeat.

21. Lock the rip lock, put the spacer, fence
and rear table back in place, lock the table
clamp, and go to the next section.

3. Attach

the ripfence

next to the front

clockwise until the point
½" out other end.

cup washer.

4. Tilt clamp bracket forward and snap in
place in rectangular
shaped hole at back of
table support.

Positioning Rear Table Boards
and Fence
1. Position
as shown.

nut in slot at top of clamp

table

2. Next drop in the table spacer and then the
rear table.
Rear

Table

Rip

Spacer Fence

,/
,1 ,In

Front

Table

5. Repeat steps 1 through
table clamp.

Squaring Blade to Table
for Crosscutting

Fig. 76

Mounting

Table Clamps

The following
table clamps"

parts are used in mounting

A
B
C
D

Thumbscrews
...................
Square Nuts ....................
Cup Washer
....................
Clamp Bracket
..................

4 with the other

These steps are necessary
so that your blade
will be perpendicular
to the table and cuts
will be accurate.
If this is not done correctly,
your cuts will have a slight bevel angle.

the

2
2
2
2

1. Place

the radial

position

and

lock

arm

in the 0 ° miter

the miter

lock.

2. Place the blade on the arborshaft
with a
blade collar on each side. Make sure that the
directional arrow is on the outside of the
blade, and the teeth are pointing down at the
front side of the blade. (Figure 79)
30

3. Place

the arbor

use the arbor
shaJt

has left-handed

to turn
Do

the

nut

on the arbor

wrenches

to tighten.
threads,

shaft
The

so you

nut counterclockwise

and

6. "[urn

arbor

the blade

and check
blade.

will have

with your

hand

to see if the square

several

is flush

times

with

the

to tighten.

not overtighten.

7. If the square
is flush with the blade after
each rotation,
no change is needed.
(Figure
81) Go to the next

section,

If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation (Figure 81), go to step
8. Note: Saw blades are manufactured
to
different specifications.
Therefore
is permissible on some brands.

Square
L I

Rg. Z9

I 1_---)
[ )

Table

CAUTION:

Overtightening

the arbor

nuts may cause the blade collars to warp
and the blade to wobble while cutting.
Use the arbor wrenches to tighten the
arbor nuts but do not overtighten.

_r_
SquaroJ
II,___
J

Wrong
Table

4. Lock

a small gap

the table

clamps

and

S oare

Wrong
Table

rip lock.
Fig. 81

5. Place the long edge of
on the table and the short
blade. Make sure that the
blade surface and not the
(Figure 80).

the framing square
edge against the
square is against the
set of a tooth.

Unlock

index

the bevel

lock,

but

do not pull the

pin.

9. Loosen
the four screws behind
theyoke
using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench.
(Figure
82)

Framir
Squ_

_ocket

Fig. 82

Fig. 80

10. Hold
motor
blade.

the

slowly

square

in place

until

the square

and

move

is flush

19. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.

the
with

the

11. Hold the motor tightly and lock the bevel
lock. Do not let the motor move out of place.

20. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, go to the next section, or

12. Check the square to make sure that it is
still flush with the blade.

If there

13. Tighten

the four screws behind

is a gap

blade after
repeat.

any

between
rotation,

the square
go back

and
to step

the
8 and

the yoke.

Squaring

14. Raise the radial arm until the blade is l1/2 inches above the table.

Blade to Fence

These steps are done so that your blade will
be perpendicular
to the fence. This will help
reduce the risk of kickback when ripping, and
splintering
of the workpiece
and burning of
the kerf when ripping and crosscutting.

15. Unlock the bevel lock and move the
motor to the 45 ° bevel position. (Figure 83)

_1_ CAUTION:
The motor is heavy and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the
motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

Fig. 84 - Squaring Blade to Fence
Fig. 83

16. Move the motor back to the 0° bevel
position and lock the bevel lock.

1. Put the radial arm in the 0 ° miter position
with the blade just in front of the fence.
(Figure 84)

17. Lower the radial arm until the blade is just
above the table.

2. Lock the rip lock.

18. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade as before. Make sure the square is
against the surface of the blade and not the set
of a tooth.

3. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above the
arbor shaft. Make sure that the edge of the
square is on the blade and not on the set of a
tooth. (Figure 84)

4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure
85) Go to the next section, or
If there is a gap between
blade after any rotation,
(Figure 85)

the square and the
go to step 6.

Fig. 86
Fence
I

Square
Right

8. Hold the square in place and turn the
motor until the square is flush with the blade.

Fence

9. Hold the saw handle
swivel lock.

Fence

Square

otot L

Wrong

Square

Wrong

10. Check the square to make sure it is still
flush with the blade.
]

11. Tighten the four screws under the yoke
using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench.

Fig. 85

6. Unlock

the swivel lock.

12. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above
the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the
edge of the square is on the blade and not on
the set of a tooth.

7. Loosen the four screws under the yoke
using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench and pliers if
necessary. (Figure 86)
at

tightly and lock the

IIWARNING:

The hex-L wrench may
break when used with pliers to loosen
screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in
the face and/or eyes. Wear safety goggles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.

13. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
14. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, go to the next section, or
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

and the

Squaring

4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.

Blade to Table for
Ripping

1. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor
to the out-rip position with the motor between
the blade and fence. (Figure 87)

5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation (Figure 89) go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation (Figure 89), go to
step 6.

Table

Wrong

1
[---

Fence

Tael

Wrong

Fig. 87- Out-tip Position
Fig. 89

2. Lock swivel lock and rip lock.

6. Loosen the hex nut on the rear carriage
bearing. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the
bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the nut.
(Figure 90)

3. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade alongside the arbor shaft. Make sure the
square is against the surface of the blade and
not on the set of a tooth. (Figure 88)

Fig. 90
Fig. 88

7. Hold

the

square

in place

inch wrench
to turn the bolt
is flush with the blade.

and

use

until

the

see if the square

hand. Try to keep
turning.

square

8. Hold the bolt firmly, and retighten
nut using a 1/2 inch wrench.
9. Turn the blade several

9/16

15. If you can keep either of the carriage bearings from turning while the motor moves
along the radial arm, go to step 16, or

the hex

times and check

If you cannot keep the carriage bearings from
turning while the motor moves, go to step 22.

is still flush with the blade.

10. If the square is flush with the blade
each rotation, go to step 11, or
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

the carriage bearing from

after

16. Wipe the V-shaped groove in each carriage bearing, and the track they ride on, with
a cloth to remove sawdust and other debris.

and the

Oil if necessary.
17. Loosen the hex nut on the carriage bearing that was loose. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to
hold the bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen
the nut.

11. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
as far back as it will go.
12. Pinch the front carriage bearing with your
fingers as tightly as possible while you pull the
motor forward with the other hand. Try to
keep the carriage bearing from turning.
(Figure 91)

18. Turn the bolt using a 9/16 inch wrench
until the looseness is gone.
19. Hold the bolt firmly with the 9/16 inch
wrench and tighten the hex nut using a 1/2
inch wrench. Do not overtighten.
20. Adjust the other carriage bearing by the
same amount so that the blade will still be
square

with the table.

21. Repeat steps 11-15 to make sure that the
carriage bearings are not still loose.
22. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade just above the arbor shaft, as before.
Make sure the square is against the surface of
the blade and not on the set of a tooth.
23. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.

Fig. 91

13. Move the motor

as far forward

as it will
24. if the square
the next section,

go.
14. Pinch the rear carnage bearing with your
fingers as tightly as possible while you pull
the motor toward the rear with the other

is flush with the blade, go to
or

If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

and the

Making Blade Parallel to
Table
These steps are done to help prevent the
workpiece
from being thrown or damaged
when the saw is used for edging.

F_g.94
6. Lower the radial arm until the blade just
rests on the edge of the framing square.
Make sure that the square is on the blade
and not on the set of a tooth.
7. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.

Fig. 93

1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position.
8. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation (Figure 95) go to step 18, or

2. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2
inches above the front table.

If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation (Figure 95) go to
step 9.

3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor
so that the blade is parallel to the table.
0_igure 93)

Right

CAUTION:

The motor

is heavy

and

Square

can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the
motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

Fence

(/_27_..--_-_ Motor
7 !

L_l

Lf_-_

Table

Wrong

4. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock and swivel lock.

Square

5. Place the corner of the framing square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge is
sticking up in the air. Make sure that the long
edge is perpendicular
to the fence. (Figure 94)

Fence {

Table

Fig. 95

Wrong
Square

_j'L/_l_e nce

Table

9. Unlock

the

bevel

lock.

14. Tighten
motor

10. Loosen the two screws on the back of the
motor support using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench
and pliers if necessary. (Figure 96)

the

two screws

on the back

15. Place the corner of the framing square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge
is sticking up in the air, as before. Make sure
that the long edge is perpendicular
to the
fence.

WARNING:

The hex-L wrench may
break when used with pliers to loosen
screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in
the face and/or eyes. Wear safety goggles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.

16. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
17. If the square is flush with the blade
each rotation, go to step 18, or
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 9 and repeat.

Saw
Handle

Installing

Motor Support
Capscrews

after

and the

Guard / Setting
Spreader

The blade guard and the spreader
are very
important
safety features of your saw. The
guard covers a large part of the blade and
reduces the risk of amputation.
The spreader
rides in the kerf of the cut wood during ripping, and helps keep the two sides from
pinching the blade and causing a kickback.

Fig. 96

1!. Hold the square in place, and lift or lower
the bottom side of the motor support until the
square is flush with the blade.

£L

12. Hold the motor
lock.

of the

support.

A_WARNIN(3:
Fingers,
can be cut off from blade

firmly and lock the bevel

hand, or arm
contact if the

blade guard is not used properly.
Always put the blade guard on your saw
and adjust it correctly.

13. Check the square to make sure that it is
still flush with the blade.

/'L

A
WARNING:
Kickback can occur if
the spreader is not in line with the
blade. You can be injured or killed. Always adjust the spreader and make sure
that it is directly in line with the blade.

3. Make sure that the lower edge of the guard
is parallel to the table. (Figure 99 above)
4. Tighten the guard clamp screw.
5. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor
to the in-rip position, with the blade between
the motor and the fence. (Figure 99)

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw until it no
longer touches the metatptate. (Figure 97)

\
Guard Clamp Screw

Metal Plate

Fig. 9 7
Fig. 99 - In-rip Position

2. Place the guard over the blade. You will
feel the guard fall into place when the ridge on
the inside of the guard slides into the slot on
the motor. (Figure 98)

6. Lock the swivel lock.
7. Lower the radial arm until the blade is just
above the table.
8. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
back until the blade touches the fence.

Gu ard--q--_

"_' (_)

9. Lock the rip lock.

10. Loosen the wing screw that holds the
spreader in place.
11. Lower the spreader and antikickback
pawls until the spreader is against the fence,
and the pawls on one side of the spreader are
on top of the fence. (Figure 100)

Fig. 98

13. Loosen both
1/2 inch wrench.

nuts on the spreader

using a

Guard

14. Slide the spreader with your hand until it
is against the fence directly behind the blade.
Antikickback

Pawls

[

15. Tighten both nuts using a 1/2 inch
wrench. Do not move the spreader as you
tighten these nuts.

)reader

16. Check the blade and spreader again to
make sure that they are both against the
fence. If not, go back to step 13 and repeat.

Table
Fence

17. Once the blade and spreader are in line,
raise the spreader up to the guard and tighten
the wing screw to hold it in place.

Fig. 100

12. If the spreader and blade both rest against
the fence, no adjustment
is needed. (Figure
101-A) Go to step 17, or

18. Unlock

the rip lock.

19. Pull the motor

forward

away from the fence

If the spreader is in front of the fence but not
touching it (Figure 101-B), go to step 13, or

20. Unlock

If the spreader hits the top of the fence
(Figure 101-C), go to step 13.

and lock the rip lock.

the swivel lock.

21. Turn the motor to the crosscut positon
with the blade and arm perpendicular
to the
fence.

A - Right

1
Pawl-_

22. Lock

- Spreader

Fence

Tab,elSaw Blade
B - Wronc

C - Wrong

Pawl--_ _

Paw,

_'Spreader

Fence ---f-_

.Spreader

Taa
bTe_ "_

Saw Blade

so that the blade is

Fence --.-F
Table
Saw Blade

Fig. 101-A,B,C
39

the swivel

lock.

Digital Display

SEA

ELEV: This button displays the height of the
blade. The "0" display is usually set with the
blade just touching the table. A positive display shows the distance the blade has been
raised above "0". A negative display shows the
distance the blade has been lowered below

/ CRRFTSMRN

II011

ELECTRONIC

MITER: This button displays the miter angle.
The "0" display is usually set with the arm perpendicular
to the fence. A positive display
shows the angle the arm has been moved to
the right. A negative display shows the angle
the arm has been moved to the left.

MEASUREMENT

LOCK

R[MOV[

YELLOW

K_Y

RIP: This button displays the distance from
the fence to the blade in the in-rip and outrip positions. The "0" display for in-rip is
usually set with the blade just touching the
fence. The "10.00" display for out-rip is usually set with the blade ten inches from the
fence.

Fig. 102- Digital Display

Your radial arm saw has a digital display
which tells you the position of the blade and
arm at the touch of a button. This display
helps you position the blade so that your cuts
will be accurate.
The following
play:

buttons

control

The "0" reference points you set will be
stored in the memory at all times, whether
the display is turned on or off. If an error occurs you will see:

the digital dis-

ON/OFF
: This button turns the display on
and off. The display runs on battery power,
and shuts itself off when no changes in blade
or arm position have been made for three
minutes. The system continues to track the
location of the blade and arm when the display is turned off, and the current
may be displayed at any time.
REF SET: This button
reference

points

blade
display

perpendicular
shows

the

position

If the battery is very weak or dead the display
will become faded and hard to read. If this

display.

displays the bevel
is usually
set with
to the table.

angle

on the display. If this happens, you will need
to reset the "0" reference
point for the function displaying the error.

is used to set the "0"

for the digital

BEVEL
: This button
angle. The "0" display

the

blade

happens, you will need to replace
and reset the "0" reference points
tions.
the

A positive
has been

turned
counterclockwise.
A negative
shows the angle the blade has been
clockwise.

display
turned

the battery
for all func-

Installing

5. If there is still no display, contact your
nearest Sears store, or

the Battery

1. Slide the battery into the opening behind
the digital display with the angled corner on
top. (Figure 103)

If the display says:

ELE

go to step 6.
Battery

6. Snap the battery cover into place.
7. Push the ON/OFF

button

to turn off the dis-

play.

Replacing

the Battery

1. Use a screwdriver
off.

to pry the battery' cover

2. Push in and slightly upward on the batter),
then pull out. The battery is held in place by a
tab that is released when you push in.

Fig. 103 - Installingthe Battery

2. Push the battery all the way into this space
and slightly downward.
It will snap into place,
and be held there by a tab.

3. Replace the battery with a 6V, alkaline battery by following the Installing the Battery
section.

3. If the display says:

Aligning

Encoders

Miter Encoder
ELE

1. Push the ON/OFF
play on.

a second or two after the battery is put in
place, go to step 6, or
If the display
step 4.

does not show anything,

button to turn the dis-

2. Put the saw in the crosscut
the radial arm perpendicular

go to

position with
to the fence.

3. Lock the miter lock.

4. Remove the battery. Put it back in and
check the display again, or

4. Push

the

MITER

button.

5. Push the REF SETbutton.
say:

Remove the batter),. Wipe off the battery contacts. Put the battery back in and check the
display again, or

Remove the battery. Replace it with a new
one. Check the display again.

MIT

The display will

6. Unlock

the miter lock.

7. Move the arm to the right until it snaps
into the 45° position.
8. Lock the miter lock.
9. The display

should

L
say:

l'" s.ol
10. Unlock

the miter lock.

11. Move the arm to the left until it snaps
into the -45°position.

Fig. 104 - Screws for Miter Encoder

12. Lock the miter lock.
13. The display should

say:

20. Slide the encoder
display says:

slightly until the digital

J.U
MIT
i,

14. If the display is correct
go to the next section, or

at all three

points,
You may need to tap on the encoder
it, but do not force it or hit it hard.

If the display is not correct at one or more of
these points, go to step 15.

21. Tighten the mounting screws on the encoder,

15. Unscrew the two mounting screws on the
back of the arm and take off the rear arm
cover.
16. Unlock

to move

22. Repeat steps 2-13 to make sure you did
not move the encoder when tightening the
mounting screws.

the miter lock.
23. If the display is still not correct repeat
steps 16 - 22 until the miter encoder is in the
right position, or

17. Move the arm to the right until it snaps
into the 45 ° miter position.
18. Lock the miter lock.
19. Loosen the mounting
encoder until the encoder
and left. (Figure 104)

If the display is correct, put the rear arm
cover back on the radial arm. Go to the next
section.

screws on the miter
will slide to the right

Bevel Encoder

14. If the display is correct
go to the next section, or

1. Push the ON/OFF button
play on.

at all three

points,

to turn the disIf the display is not correct at one or more of
these points, go to step 15.

2. Put the saw in the crosscut position with
the radial arm perpendicular
to the fence and
the blade perpendicular to the table.

15. Unlock

the bevel lock.

16. Move the motor
3. Lock the bevel lock.

to the 45 ° bevel position.

17. Lock the bevel lock.

4. Push the BEVEL button.
5. Push the REF SETbutton.
say:

The display

will

18. Loosen the two aligning screws on the
bevel encoder until the encoder will slide from
right to left. (Figure 105)

Aligning
,

Screws

Motor Support

6. Unlock

Bevel
Encoder

the bevel lock.

7. Turn the motor to the 45 ° bevel position.

CAUTION:

Yoke
Casting

The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the
motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

8. Lock the bevel lock.
9. The display

should

say:

I,
10. Unlock

Fig. 105 - Screws for Bevel Encoder

19. Slide the encoder
says:

the bevel lock.

11. Move the motor

slightly until the display

4 cn ]

to the 90 ° bevel position.
You may need to tap on the encoder
it, but do not force it or hit it hard.

12. Lock the bevel lock.
13. The display should

say:

I.v quO
°

20. Tighten
coder.

the two aligning

to move

screws on the en-

21. Repeat steps 2 - 13 to make sure you did
not move the encoder when tightening the
two screws.

22. If the display is still not correct, repeat

8. Push the ELEVbutton.

steps 15 - 21 until the bevel encoder
right position, or

9. Push the REF SETbutton.

If the display

is correct,

Setting
Bevel, Miter

is in the

10. The display will say:

go to the next section.

Zero References

and Elevation

The "0" reference points for miter,
elevation are usually set with the:

In-rip

bevel, and

Reference

The "0" reference point for in-rip is usually
set with the blade just touching the front of
the fence.

.Saw in the crosscut position with the
radial arm perpendicular to the fence
(0° miter).

1. Unlock

the swivel lock.

2. Turn the motor to the in-rip position with
the blade between the motor and the fence.

• Blade perpendicular to the fence and
front table (0 ° bevel).

3. Lock the swivel lock.

•Blade in front of the fence just touching
the front table (0 inches elevation).

You may set the "0" reference
position, or any other position

4. Unlock the table locks and put the fence
between the front table and the spacer.
5. Lock the table locks.

points in this
you choose.

6. Unlock
1. Put the blade in the position you have
chosen to be the zero reference point.
2. Push the MITER

the rip lock.

7. Move the motor back until the blade is just
touching the front of the fence.

button.
8. Lock the rip lock.

3. Push the REF SETbutton.
9. Push the RIP button.
4. The display will say:

MIT

10. If the display
to step 11, or
• U

5. Push the BEVEL

shows the RIP function,

If the display shows the O-RIP function, push
the RIP button again. Then go to step 11.

button.
11. Push the REF SETbutton.

6. Push the REF SET button.
12. If the display
7. The display

BEV

will say:

•U

.,P

says:

"hi

.U U

go to the next section,
If the display

8. Lock the rip lock.
9. Push the RIP button.

says:

10. If the display shows the O-RIP
go to step 11, or

.,P !t U.L!
J-I i-I LI
I-! ]
push the REF SETbutton
the next section.

again. Then

function,

If the display shows the RIP function, push
the RIP button again. Then go to step 11.

go to

11. Push the REF SETbutton.
Out-rip

Reference
12. If the display says:

The "0" reference point for out-rip is usually
set with the blade ten inches from the fence.
1. Unlock

the swivel

2. Turn the motor to the out-rip position with
the motor between the blade and the fence.
3. Lock

the swivel

13. Push
The

lock.

4. Unlock the table locks and move the fence
behind the spacer and rear table. (Figure 119)

the

display

O-RiP

5. Lock the table locks.
6. Unlock

J-I t'!
. ;_! I_!

o.,P

lock.

the rip lock.

7. Move the motor until the blade is 10 inches
in front of the fence. Use a framing square,
ruler or tape measure to measure this distance.
(Figure 106)

Blade

Fence

Fig. 106 - Out-Rip Reference

REF

SET

will say:

button

again.

Electrical

Connections
A

Motor Specifications
The AC motor used in this saw is a capacitorstart, non-reversible
type having the following
specifications:
Rated H.P ..........................
Maximum
Developed
H.P .............
Voltage
...........................
Amperes
..........................
Hertz (cycles)
.......................
Phase ...........................
RPM .............................
Rotation of Arbor Shaft .........

Your unit is wired for 120V, it has a plug that
looks like the one shown below. O:igure 107)

1.5
2.5
120
11
60
Single
3450
Clockwise

3-Prong Plug

Power Supply
,_

WARNING:

_l& WARNING:
To avoid shock or fire, if
power cord is worn, cut, or damaged in
any way have it replaced immediately.

Grounding

Your saw is wired at

the factory for 120V operation. Connect
to a 120V, 15-AMP, branch circuit and
use a 15-AMP, time delay fuse or circuit
breaker. Failure to connect in this way
can result in injury from shock or fire.

Prong

Properly
Grounded
Outlet

Fig. 107- Plug for Less Than 150V

This power tool is equipped with a 3conductor
cord and grounding
type plug listed
by Underwriters'
Laboratories.
The ground
conductor
has a green jacket and is attached
to the tool housing at one end and to the
ground prong in the attachment
plug at the
other end.

Your saw must be properly grounded.
Not all
outlets are properly grounded.
If you are not
sure that your outlet is properly grounded,
have it checked by a qualified electrician.
WARNING:

If not properly

grounded this power tool can cause
electrical shock, particularly when used
in damp locations.

This plug requires a mating 3-conductor
grounded type outlet as shown above. If you
have an outlet that is of the two prong type, it
is recommended that you have a qualified
electrician replace the it with a properly
grounded three prong outlet.

_I&WARNING:

If an electrical shock occurs, your reaction to the shock may
bring your hands into contact with the
blade.

_lb WARNING:

To maintain

Extension

proper

tool grounding, whenever the outlet you
are planning to use for this power tool
is of the two prong type do not remove
or alter the grounding prong in any manner.

The use of any extension cord will cause
some loss of power. Use the following table
to determine
the minimum wire size
(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3- wire extension cords which have 3-prong grounding
type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which accept the tool's plug.

An adapter is available for connecting
plug to
2-prong receptacles.
The green grounding lead
extending from the adapter must be connected
to a permanent
ground such as to a properly
grounded outlet box. (Figure 108)

Grounding

/
3-Pronq Pluq _,'_

_-'-" I,__J Connected

2-Prong
Receptacle

Fig. 108 - Adapterfor 2-Prong Receptacles

_1_ WARNING:

sizes Required

(American
Wire
120V Lines

0 - 25 feet

No°14

26 - 50 feet
51 - 100 feet

No.12
No. 8

Gage

No.)

For circuits that are farther away from electrical circuit box, the wire size must be increased proportionately
in order to deliver
ample voltage to the saw motor.

To A

Known Ground
_"""

/
Adapter

Wire

Make Sure This Is

_"_1_-_)1t
__

Length of
Conductor

Lug

Cords

The adapter

illustrated

is for use only if you already have a
properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.

Crosscutting
Crosscutting
is used to cut a workpiece
to
length. The workpiece is held against the
fence. The saw blade is pulled through the
workpiece. Cuts are usually made across the
grain of the workpiece.

Types of Crosscuts
The basic types of crosscuts are shown below.
Notice the hand and body position in each.

Fig. 111 - Bevel Crosscut

Fig. 109 - Straight Crosscut

Fig. 112 - Compound Crosscut

Miter
Straight

Fig. 113 - Basic Crosscuts

Fig. ! 10 - Miter Crosscut

Bevel
Compound

Safety Information
Crosscutting

4. Fingers or hand can slip into the saw
blade as you make a crosscut. Fingers,
hand or arm can be cut off. Keep the
hand holding the workpiece
at least 8 inches to the side of the workpiece,
out of
the path of the saw blade. Keep hand
holding the workpiece
in view at all
times.

for

Read and follow the safety information
before making any type of crosscut.

below

WARNING
1. Set guard and anti-kickback
pawls to
proper height to serve as a partial barrier.

5. The blade can come completely
off
table edge beyond the 30 ° left miter
position.
Fingers, hands, arms or legs
can be cut off. Use the right miter position whenever possible to make miter
crosscuts.

2. The saw blade can throw the
workpiece over the fence if the blade is
pushed backwards into workpiece.You
or others can be hit and injured by the
thrown workpiece.
Start a crosscut with
the blade in its rearmost position.

6. The blade continues to turn for about
12 seconds after the saw is turned
off. Wait for the blade to stop before
reaching for the workpiece.

3. If the blade is pulled through the
workpiece beyond the middle of the
blade, it can:

7. If length stops are used on the cut-off
end of workpJece,
the cut-off end can
be thrown by the blade. The workpiece
could hit and injure you or others in the
area. Do not use a length stop on the
cut-off end of the workpiece.
Use a
length stop only on the end of the
workpiece which is held down.

• pick up and throw the cut-off section of the workpiece
which could
hit and injure you or others in the
area, or;

• lift or move the held-down

section

of the workpiece and pull your
hand into the blade as the blade
is returned. Pull the saw blade
through the workpiece
tance shown below.

8. Holding on to or touching the cut off
end of the workpiece while the saw
blade is still turning can cause the
workpiece
to pinch the blade. The
workpiece
can be thrown and hit and injure you or others in the area. Do not
touch, hold on to, push, or grab the cutoff piece of the workpiece while the
power is on or the saw blade is turning.

to the dis-

9. The saw can throw the workpiece,
workpiece chips or pieces of the blade
violently. You can be blinded. Wear
safety goggles.

Fig. 114 - Blade Distance to Complete

Crosscut

10. The workpiece
cannot be controlled
or held stable enough to do free hand
cutting. The workpiece
can be thrown or
slip and pull fingers and hand into the
saw blade. Fingers or hand can be cut
off. Set the radial arm to the desired
cutting angle. Keep workpiece flat on
table and solidly against the fence.

Blade Guard, Anti-Kickback
Pawls and Spreader
The blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls and
spreader are designed to reduce or eliminate
the risk of injury from contact with the upper
half of the blade and the leading edge of the
blade when:

11. Saw parts loosen and wear with
use. You or others can be injured. Keep
all parts tight and in working order.

• the guard
and;

is in, the horizontal

position

the pawls and spreader
are set to
clear the top of the fence and
workpiece
by about 1/8 inch.

12. The fence must be of at least equal
height to the workpiece or else the
workpiece can be lifted or thrown and hit
and injure you or others in the area. See
Cutting Accessories
section for instructions to make a fence.

The Blade Guard:

• provides protection
from contact
the upper half of the blade;

13. The blade will try to pull itself
through the workpiece.
Be prepared to
hold the saw handle back to keep the
saw blade from coming toward you.

• helps keep the workpiece
ming in the guard and;

14. Lock rip lock after every crosscut, or
else the blade will suddenly come
toward you when you lower it to make a
crosscut.

from jam-

• helps catch or deflect workpiece
or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-kickback

15. Whenever the blade is turning, keep
one hand on the saw handle to keep the
saw blade from coming toward you.

Bar,

Pawls

with

and

chips

Spreader:

• serve as a partial barrier to provide
protection
from contact with the leading edge of the blade.

16. Cutting more than one workpiece
at
a time can cause you to lose control of
the workpieces,
which can be thrown
and hit and injure you or others in the
area. Cut only one workpiece at a time.
Do not stack or lay workpieces
edge to
edge.

WARNING:

To reduce the risk of

contact with the upper half of the blade
and keep the workpiece from jamming in
the guard, set the blade guard in the
horizontal position, Fig. 118.

Crosscutting
Use the following
checklist
of each new cutting
period
of an accident.

Crosscut
Yellow :key removed

Arm slopes
to Side.

Cutting Table and Fence
Kerfs

Checklist
at the beginning
to reduce
the risk

You will need to cut a new table kerf (shallow cut) and fence kerf (slot left in the fence
from sawing through it with the blade), each
time a new cutting angle is used. The table
kerf lets the blade cut all the way through a
workpiece.

Checklist
from red switch.

to the rear and table level side

Arbor nut snug.
Blade sharp.
Fence secure, solid (knot free) and in good
condition.

Fig. 115 - Table and Fence Kerfs

Note: To extend the life of your table top,
you can make an additional
table top. See
Helpful Hints section.

Fence in correct table position.
Workpiece does not extend above the top
of the fence.
All saw parts are tight and working.

Making
ting

be_d

To make a crosscut kerf in your table and
fence:

the fece.

Blade guard

Table and Fence Kerfs

for Crosscut-

horizontal.

Anti-kickback
pawls and spreader set to
clear top of fence and or workpiece by
about I/8 inch.

Swivel, rip, miter, bevel and table locks
locked.

1. Put your fence between the front table
spacer board. Lock the table locks.

and

2. Push the saw to the rearmost
hind the fence.

be-

3. Lock rip lock.

Read and follow instructions for the type
of crosscut you want to do.

position,

t'k

WARNING:

The saw blade will sud-

8. Grasp saw handle and hold your forearm
in line with the saw handle as shown below.

denly come toward you when lowered
into the table if the rip lock is unlocked.
Fingers and hand can be cut off. Lock
the rip lock before and after each
crosscut.

Pawl

ii;iiii!i
¸£i!!iiii_i,7

Fig. 118- Crosscut Blade Guard and Body Position

,(k
mLWARNING:

ly come toward you when turned on.
Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off.
Keep one hand on the saw handle at all
times.

Fig. 116 - Locked Position for Rip Lock

4. Lower

the radial

most touches

arm until the blade

Saw blade can sudden-

al-

the table top.

5. Plug the saw into a grounded
outlet. Check
Electrical Connections
section of manual if

9. Turn

you are not sure the outlet

10. Lower the saw arm slowly until the blade
touches the table.

6. Wear safety goggles
on the package.

_1_ WARNING:

is grounded.

labeled

the saw on.

ANSI Z87.1
11. Turn
the handwheel
another
1/2 turn
more. This will let you make a 1/32 to 1/16
inch kerr in the table.

The saw can throw the

workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces
the blade violently.
You can be
blinded. Wear safety goggles.

12. Unlock

rip lock.

13. Pull the saw blade forward through the
fence and along the table as far as it will go.
14. Return the saw blade
tion behind the fence.

to its rearmost

posi-

15. Turn the saw off, but do not let go of the
saw handle.
goggles.

16. Wait for blade

Fig. 117 - Safety Goggles Safety Sign

7. Insert

to stop turning.

17. Lock rip lock.

yellow key into the red switch.

18. Remove
52

yellow key from red switch.

Making

4. Adjust the height of the anti-kickback
pawls to clear top of fence and workpieee
by
about 1/8 inch. The pawls and spreader help
provide protection
from the leading edge of
blade.

Crosscuts

The following section contains safety information and instructions for making crosscuts.
Anyone who uses your saw should read and
follow these steps.

5. Plug saw into grounded
_k

WARNING:

The blade guard must be

6. Put on safety goggles.

horizontal to provide protection from
contact with the upper half of the blade
and avoid the workpiece being jammed in
the blade. Set the blade guard in the
horizontal position. Fig. 118.

_1_ DANGER:

The anti-kickback

7. Place the workpiece
8. Unlock

pawls

pawls to clear the top of the fence and
workpiece
by about 1/8 inch.

The fence must be at

1. Put your fence in position A as shown and
lock the table locks.

'[/

• lift or move the held-down

2. Push the saw to the rearmost
hind the fence.
,?

section

of the workpiece and draw your
hand into the blade as the blade
is returned.

position,

be-

into but not touching

the

?:.-+

3. Lower the blade
table kerf.

• pick up and throw the cut-off section of the workpiece which could
hit and injure you or others in the
area, or;

Fig. 119 - Fence Position for Crosscut

&&WARNING:
If the saw blade is pulled
through the workpiece
beyond the middle of the saw blade, it can:

C A

rip lock.

_II_WARNIN(3:
The saw blade tries to
pull itself through the workpiece.
Be
prepared to hold saw handle back to
keep the saw blade from coming toward
you. Keep one hand on the saw handle
at all times.

least equal height or higher than the
workpiece
you are going to cut or else
the workpiece
can be thrown and injure
you or others in the area. Install a fence
of at least equal height to the workpiece.

against the fence.

9. Grasp the saw handle while holding your
forearm in a straight line with the saw handle.

serve as a barrier for the leading edge
or the blade. Set the anti-kickback

_l& WARNING:

outlet.

Pull the saw blade through the
workpiece to the distance shown

12. Support
and against
hand.

below.

and hold
the fence

the workpiece
down
firmly with your left

13. Pull blade through fence and workpiece
just enough to complete the cut. (Fig. 120)
14. Return saw to its rearmost position
continue to hold the saw handle.
15. Turn

and

saw off.

16. Wait for the blade

to stop turning.

1% Remove yellow key form red switch.

Fig. 120 - Distance Needed to Complete Crosscut

10. Insert

yellow key into red switch.

Repetitive

Crosscuts

11. Turn saw on.
To make repetitive

crosscuts:

,Ok

WARNING:
Saw blade can be
pulled into or over fingers or
hand. Fingers or hand can be cut off.
Keep hand holding the workpiece at
least 8 inches to the left of, and out of
the path of "the saw blade. Keep hand in
view at all times.

Fig. 121- Hand Placement

1. Use two pieces
lumber.

of 1 inch by 2 by 2 inch

2. Use a C clamp to clamp one piece on each
side of the lower right edge of the radial arm.
3. Clamp
necessary

pieces of lumber at the distance
to complete the crosscut.

for Crosscuts
Fig. 122

Ripping
When

Ripping is used to change the width of the
workpiece by sawing along its length. The
workpiece
is fed into the saw blade. The
fence is used as a guide. Rip cuts are usually
made with the grain of the workpiece.

to Use

In-Rip

or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility of both the workpiece
and your
hands than does the out-rip saw position.
The only time you should use the out-rip saw
position is when the workpiece
is 14 inches
or wider. Use the in-rip position for all
workpicces
less than 14 inches wide.

Saw Positions for Ripping
There are two saw blade positions for making
rip cuts: in-rip and out-rip.
In in-rip position, motor is toward the front
of the table, and blade is toward the fence.

Workpiece

Positioning

for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest
part of the workpiece
is between the blade
and the fence. For example, if you want to
take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece,
set
the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do
not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece
by setting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

AiikWARNIN_:
inches

will be brought
Fingers
stick.
Fig. 123 - In-Rip Saw Position

In out-rip position,
the blade is toward

If the blade

and 6 inches

from

too close

and hand

is set between

the fence,
to the

hands

blade.

can be cut off. Use

a push

For example, if the workpiece
is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from
the fence and use a push stick. Use a push
stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

motor is toward fence and
the front of the table.

ches. See Cutting Accessories
section
to make and use a push stick.

_l_ WARNING:

If the blade

on how

is set between

1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands
will be brought too close to the blade.
Fingers/hand
can be cut off. Use an auxiliary
fence/push block.
For example, if the workpiece
is 3 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece,
place the saw blade 2 inches from
the fence and use a push block and auxiliary
fence. See Cutting Accessories
section.

Fig. !24 - Out-Rip Saw Position (Infeed End)

_1_ WARNING:

Stand

only at infeed

end

of saw. Feed workpiece
only into infeed
end of saw as shown above.
55

Safety Information
Ripping

2. One of the most common and the
most dangerous mistakes people make
is to reach for the workpiece
at the outfeed side of the saw. DON'T ! The

for

Read and follow the safety information
before making any type of rip cut.

below

workpiece could kickback as you reach
for, touch or try to pull the workpiece
through the blade. You can lose your
fingers, hand, or arm. The blade guard
does NOT provide complete protection
at outfeed end of the saw. Do not reach
for the workpiece at outfeed end of the
saw. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut
off. Follow instructions for ripping.

DANGER

1. Kickback can happen when the saw
blade is pinched or bound by the
workpiece.
This creates force in the opposite direction to which the workpiece
is being fed. The teeth of the blade grab
and throw the workpiece
violently back
out of the saw.

Kickback

Kickback, Blade
Contact.
Fingers, hand, arm
can be cut off.

can happen when:

Follow instructions
for Ripping

Anti-kickback
pawls/spreader
are not
used or not correctly adjusted.

Fig. 125- Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

Spreader

is not in line with the blade.

Blade is not parallel

Edge of workpiece
is not in contact
the rip fence or not straight.
Workpiece
is twisted
on the table top.

3. The workpiece can also kickback
violently toward you during a rip cut.
You can be hit hard enough to cause
broken bones and/or internal injury.
Keep blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls
and spreader
in place and adjusted.
Apply feed pressure
to the section of
the workpiece
next to the fence. Do not
apply feed pressure
on the section of
the workpiece
away from the fence.
Stand out of the path of the workpiece.

to the rip fence.

or warped

with

and rocks

Edge of workpiece
is not completely
against the rip fence, leaving gaps
between the fence and workpieee edge.
Workpieee
is released before being
pushed completely
past the saw blade,
Feeding pressure
of the workpiece

Wrong

is put on the section
farthest from the fence.

Way Feed.

Workpiece
impact
can kill others.
Feed into infeed
end of saw.

Fig. !26 - Kickback, Thrown Workpiece Safety Sign

4. Non-thru cuts increase
the chance
kickback
because the anti-kickback

2. The workpiece
can be grabbed
by the
saw blade and take off like a missile.
Anyone standing
in the path of the
workpiece can be killed.

pawls cannot always grab the irregular
workpiece
surface.
Use a featherboard.
See Cutting Accessories
section on how
to make and use a featherboard.

Wrong Way Feed,
Blade Contact.

5. The workpiece
can snag or hang up
on a fence with a kerr in it. The
workpiece
can be thrown or pinch the
blade, causing kickback.
Use solid fences when making rip cuts.

Fingers, hand or arm
can be cut off.
Feed from infeed
end of saw.

6. Wood cut with the grain can spring
the kerr closed, bind the blade, and
cause a kickback.
Adjust spreader
to
ride in the kerf and prevent the kerf
from closing on saw blade.

Wrong

Feed into infeed
end of saw.

have a harder and more slippery
surface
than wood, the anti-kickback
pawls may
not stop a kickback.
Place finished
side
of workpiece
down, roughest
side of
workpiece
up. Make anti-kickback
pawls
and spreader
adjustments.
Stand out of
the path of workpiece.

DANGER:

Wrong

Way

Feed.

Workpiece
impact
can kill others.

7. Composition
materials,
like particle
boards and plastics,
may be cut on the
saw. Because these materials
often

Way

Fig. 127- Wrong Way Feed Safety Signs

Always feed the workpiece
against the
direction
of rotation
of the blade, at the
infeed end of the blade.

Feed
End
}lade

Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece
into the end of the blade with pawls, the
outfeed end. (Fig. 128) There are two
things that can happen if you feed the
workpiece into the outfeed end of the saw
blade:

IGER

1. The workpiece
can be grabbed
by the
blade and pull your hands into the blade
before you can let go or pull back.
Fingers, hands or arms can be cut off.

Fig. 128 - Infeed and Ouffeed Ends of Saw Blade

Blade Guard, Anti-kickback
Pawls and Spreader

Rip Cutting Checklist
Use the following rip cutting checklist at the
beginning of each new cutting period to
reduce the risk of an accident.

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and
workpiece
spreader are designed to reduce or
eliminate the risk of injury from blade contact, workpiece
kickback and wrong way feed.
The Blade Guard:

• serves as a partial barrier to help
keep hands from contacting the blade
at the infeed end of the saw blade.

• helps keep the workpiece from lifting
or fluttering during ripping.

• helps catch or deflect workpiece
or pieces of the blade.
The Anti-Kickback

chips

Pawls :

• help reduce kickback by grabbing into
and holding the workpiece.

• act as a barrier to provide some
protection from blade contact.
The Spreader:

• helps keep lhe kerf of the workpiece
open, which helps prevent the blade
from being pinched and causing
workpiece
kickback.

• when correctly set, helps reduce or
eliminate the chance of wrong way
feed because it blocks the workpiece
from contacting
the saw blade.

_WARNING:
and spreader

The anti-kickback
adjustments

must

pawls
be made

each time a different
thickness
workpiece
is cut to reduce or eliminate
kickback.

Making

Blade Guard Adjustments

a Rip Cut Table Kerf

You will need

to make a table kerr before

1. Unplug

rip cut can be made. Every time you move
the blade a new distance from the fence, you
will need to make a new kerr.
1. Put saw in desired rip position
saw arm in the 0° position.
2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel
locks.

saw and remove

yellow key.

2. Put saw in In-Rip position
saw arm in the 0° position.

and lock the

and table

3. Adjust saw arm with handwheel
until the
saw blade almost touches the table top.
4. Plug

the

saw into

a grounded

outlet.

5. Put on safety goggles.
6. Insert
7. Turn

Fig. 129 - In-Rip Saw Position
3. Lock
locks.

the yellow key in the red switch.
saw

on.

8. Lower saw blade
table.

until blade

touches

For workpieces

bevel,

4. Go to tile in-feed
Fig. 120.

the

swivel

and

table

end of the saw blade.

5. Put the workpiece
on the table, in line with
blade and under the nose of blade guard, so
it touches the blade.

9. Turn the handwheel about 1 full turn
more. This will make a 1/16 to 1/8 inch kerf
in tile table.

_IbWARNING:

rip, miter,

6. Loosen the guard clamp screw and rotate
the guard until the guard nose just clears the
workpiece. Fig. 122.

1/4 inch

thick or less, make the rip kerr at least
1/8 inch deep to keep the saw blade
from rising up on top of workpieces
and
violently throwing them.

7. Tighten

the guard

clamp screw.

:kback/

10. Turn saw off and remove
11. Unplug

yellow key.

saw at the end of cutting

Adjustments
_1_ DANGER:

session.

for Ripping

kback

You will need to make

blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls and
spreader adjustments before making a rip
cut.

....
Fig. 130- Blade Guard Position for Ripping

Anti-kickback

Pawls

and Spreader

Making Rip Cuts

Adjust-

ments
When

1. Go to the outfeed

to Use

In-Rip

or Out-Rip

end of the saw blade.

2. Put edge of workpiece
and under the pawls.

beside

The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility of both the workpiece
and your
hands than does the out-rip saw position. The
only time you should use the out-rip saw position is when the workpiece
is 14 inches or
wider. Use the in-rip position for all
workpieces
less than 14 inches wide.

the blade

3. Loosen wing screw and lower the anti-kickback pawls and spreader until the spreader
hangs next to the edge of the workpiece and
the pawls, on one side of the spreader, rest
on the workpiece.

Workpiece

Positioning

for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest
part of the workpiece
is between the blade
and the fence. For example, if you want to
take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide work_iece, set
the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do
not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by setting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.
£L

dI&WARNINL_:
If the blade is set between 2 inches and 6 inches from the
fence, hands will be brought too close
to the blade. Fingers and hand can be
cut off. Use a push stick.
Fig. 131 - Anti-kickback Paw/Position

4. Tighten

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece,
place the saw blade 6 inches from
the fence and use a push stick. Use a push
stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

wing screw.

5. Go to the infeed

end of the saw blade.

6. Push the workpiece
a few inches in the
direction of the cut and then pull the
workpiece back toward you. The pawls
should have grabbed the wood and stopped
the kickback motion by grabbing into the
workpiece.
If they did not, repeat adjustments until the pawls grab the workpiece.
If
the pawls fail to grab the workpiece, sharpen
or replace them. If that fails to work, use a
featherboard.
Repeat steps for making antikickback pawls and spreader adjustments
above.

ches. See Cutting Accessories
to make and use a push stick.
_I=WARNING:

section

on how

If the blade is set be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches from the
fence, hands will be brought too close
to the blade. Fingers/hand
can be cut
off. Use an auxiliary fence/push
block.
For example, if the workpiece
is 3 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece,
place the saw blade 2 inches from
the fence and use a push block and auxiliary
fence. See Cutting Accessories
section.

_k
JlWARNING:
When making through
rip cuts do not set the blade closer than
1/2 inch from the fence or auxiliary
fence, your hands will be brought
too
close to the blade. Your fingers and
hand can be cut off. Do not use a radial
arm saw to rip cut less than
wide workpieces.

9. Stand out of the line of the workpiece
to
be clear of workpiece
in case of kickback.

1/2 inch

1. Set the blade to desired distance from the
fence and lock the saw arm in the 0° position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table
locks.
3. Make blade guard,
spreader adjustments.
4. Remove
5. Turn

workpiece

anti-kickback

pawls and
Fig. 132 - Hand and Body Position for Making an
In-Rip Cut

from table.

saw on.

6. Place workpiece
keeping workpiece

10. Position your body at the infeed end of
the saw blade. Start and complete the cut
from that same side.

under the guard nose,
edge against the fence.

7. Place one hand flat on the workpiece
next to fence.
8. Place the other hand behind
that your fingers are:

11. Push the workpiece, putting pressure on
the part of the workpiece between the blade
and the fence. If you push the part of the
workpiece
on the other side of the blade, the
blade could be pinched and the workpiece
will kickback.

and

the first so

12. Keep pushing the section of the
workpiece between the blade and the fence
until the piece has been pushed completely
past the anti-kickback
pawls.

• on the back edge of workpiece;

• out of the blade

path and,

• as close to the fence

DANGER:
The blade guard does
NOT provide complete protection
at outfeed end of the saw blade. The

as possible.

workpiece
could kickback as you reach
for, touch or pull the workpiece through
the blade, pulling your hand into the
blade. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off. Do not pull, hold-down or touch the
workpiece
at the outfeed end of the saw.

_WARNING:

Even when all steps to
reduce kickback are taken, the
workpiece
can still kickback. You or
others in the area can be hit hard
enough to cause broken bones or internal organ injury. Stand out of the line of
the saw blade and workpiece.

on the arbor

nut to spin off. Take several passes of the
dado if cut required is greater than 13/16 of
an inch wide.

Kickback,
Blade
Contact.
Fingers,
hand, arm
can be cut off.
Follow
for

3. To avoid excessive

_lb

Blade continues

to turn
Molding

for about 12 seconds after power is
turned off. Do not reach for cut
workpiece
until blade stops. Fingers or
hand can be cut off by the turning
blade. Wait for blade to stop turning.

14. Remove

than

4. When installing the dado on the arbor, always install the inside loose collar first to ensure good arbor nut engagement. Make sure
the arbor nut is snug. Install the arbor nut
directly against the outside of the dado.

the saw off

WARNING:

load on the motor

never cut a 13/16 inch wide dado deeper
1/8 inch in one pass.

instructions
Ripping

Fig. 133 - Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

13. Turn

could cause the dado and arbor

1. Instructions
for using the molding
provided with the molding head.

head are

2. Use of molding head or drum sander with
the saw arbor vertical requires an opening
(next to rear face of fence) for saw arbor
clearance.
See Cutting Accessories
section to
make a molding fence.

yellow key from red switch.

Edging
1. Edging requires the use of a dado or molding head in the horizontal position (parallel
to table).

Bevel Ripping
To make

a bevel

rip cut:

1. Set the saw in the desired

2. Use proper accessory guard when edging.
See Recommended Accessories section.

position.

2. Index the arm to 0° and lock in position.
3. Bevel
4. Follow

the blade

to the desired

steps for making

angle.

a rip cut.

Note: For dadoing, molding and edging,
low instructions
for crosscutting.

fol-

AILWARNINL_:
Using the saw without the
proper accessory guard for edging is extremely dangerous.
Hands, fingers or
arm can be cut off. Buy, use and follow
instructions for edging guard.

3. Use an auxiliary fence when edging with
the radial arm in the 0° miter position. See
Cutting Accessories
section to make auxiliary
fence for edging in the 0° miter position.

Dadoing
1. Instructions
for using dado blades
provided with the dado blade.

are

2. The saw arbor is designed for a dado set
up to 13/16 inches wide. Use of a wider dado

_'_r

41L WARNING:
If the auxiliary fence is
not used when the saw arm is in the 0 °

3. Remove saw blade, dado, or other accessory from the saw arbor shaft before using
the accessory shaft. Do not use the saw with
accessories
installed on both ends of the saw
arbor shaft at the same time.

crosscut position, the molding head cannot be located behind the fence for safe
and proper

operation.

4. Make sure the unused shaft is covered by a
guard, the arm, or the screw cap to avoid
being pulled into moving parts by hair,
threads, clothing.

4. Edging can also be done in the 30 ° left
miter without the use of an auxiliary fence.
Follow the instructions
below.

5. Drill chucks can bend and pieces of the
drill bit can break. You can be blinded or in-

• Miter the arm to the left approximately 30°.
• Swivel the motor

until bottom

jured if hit by thrown pieces.
drills longer than 7 inches.

of
6. Use a spade type drill of I inch diameter
or smaller. Use for drilling only wood or plastic because the speed is not high enough for
other types of materials.

motor is parallel to and facing the rip
fence and operating
instructions
label
is visible.

• Follow all steps outlined
label as shown below.

Do not use twist

7. Do not use other

on motor

reduced

shank drills.

8. Remove adjusting wrenches. Form habit of
checking to see that adjusting wrenches are
removed from tool before,turning
it on.

DANGER

9. When using the accessory shaft in the vertical position, swivel the motor 90 ° so that the
arbor shaft is under the radial arm as shown.
,WARNING:
Clothing, hair, jewelry can
be caught and pulled into an exposed
arbor shaft. Fingers, hand or arm can be
broken or cut off. Place the arbor shaft.
under the radial arm when using the accessory shaft.

Fig. 134- Edging Label
Accessory

Safety

1. For your safety use only recommended
accessories. Use of any other accessories
may
increase the risk of injury. See Recommended Accessory section of manual.
2. Use of grinding wheels, abrasive or cut off
wheels, or wire wheels is dangerous because
they can break explosively and throw pieces.
You can be blinded or recieve a life threatening puncture wound. Do not use grinding
wheels, abrasive!cut
off wheels or wire wheels.
Fig. 135 - Arbor Shaft Posi_on When Using
Accessory Shaft
63

Cutting Accessories
Fences
Fences are required

Push

for all saw operations.

Push sticks are used during ripping when the
blade is placed between 2 and 6 inches from
the fence.

Crosscutting
requires fences with kerfs (slots)
to match the path of the saw, because the saw
blade is pulled through the kerf in the fence
to cut the workpiece.

Make

a push

stick

when:

• the blade is to be placed
ches from the fence;

Ripping requires a solid fence with no kerfs
or slms, because the fence serves as a guide
for the workpiece
being pushed into the saw
blade. If the workpiece
is pushed along a
fence with kerfs, the workpiece
can get
caught on a kerf, pinch the blade and cause
the workpiece
to kickback.
Make

Stick

• existing
To make

2 to 6 in-

push stick has been

damaged.

a push stick:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot free) piece of lumber.

a new fence:

2. Cut a piece 15 inches long by 1 5/8 inches
wide.

• when the fence used for crosscutting
has weakened
from having too many
kerfs cut in it;

3. Cut a 45 degree

notch in one end as shown.
Slightly
Thickness

• when you want to make a rip cut but
the fence on the saw has kerfs;

Less Than
of Workpiece

up to 3/8"---_

--r-1-5/8_
• when you want to crosscut a
workpiece
higher than your current
fence.
To make

15 _
Note: All Dimensions

in Inches

Fig. 136 - Push Stick Dimensions

a new fence:

1. Use 3/4 inch knot free lumber.
particle board or other composite
cause they are not strong enough.

_,5t' Notch-L-

Do not use
material be-

2. Cut lumber to a length equal to the length
of the table, and to a width more than half the
height of the workpiece being cut, but never
less than 3/4 inch.

Fig. 137- Way to Use Push Stick
64

_-//__

2--h_
_""
1/2

Auxiliary

Fence and Push
Block

2-1/4

An auxiliary fence must be used if the blade
is positioned
between 1/2 inch and 2 inches
from the fence during ripping. An auxiliary
fence must always be used with a push block.
Their purpose is to keep your hands away
from the saw blade. They are also needed
when you use the molding head.
Make

an auxiliary

fence

314" Plywood

This Face and This
Edge Must Be Parallel

318" Plywood
Note: All Dimensions in Inches

when:

• the blade is to be placed
less from the fence;

2 inches

1
_5-1/:

or
Fig. !38 - Auxiliary

Fence Dimensions

Push Block
• an existing auxiliary fence is not the
same width all along its length;

• the existing auxiliary fence
damaged by blade contact.
To make

auxiliary

Push blocks are always used with an auxiliary
fence.

has been

Make

fence:

1. Use one piece of 3/8 inch plywood
pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.
2. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood
by 5 1/2 inches wide.

a push

• the blade is to be placed
inches from the fence;

and two

• you make

to 40 inches long

• existing
3. Cut one piece of 3/4 inch plywood
inches long by 3 5/8 inches wide.

with

the first auxiliary

push block has been

fence;

damaged.

pieces
(flush)

To make a push block:

1. Use one piece of 3/4 inch plywood and one
piece of 3/8 inch plywood.

to 40

2. Cut the 3/4 inch plywood
by 5 inches wide.

toon

to 12 inches

long

3. Cut a triangular
piece off each of two
corners of the 12 inch side by marking with a
pencil in and down from the corners 1 1/4 inches and cutting along the diagonal formed
by the points.

6. Glue the 3/8 inch plywood piece at right
angle to and flush against the 2 1/4 inch wide
3/4 inch plywood.
7. Reinforce

1/2 inch to 2

to 40

4. Cut other piece of 3/4 inch plywood
inches long by 2 1/4 inches wide.
5. Glue the two 3/4 inch plywood
gether so that they line up square
an edge.

block when:

nails.

4. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood
by 5 1/8 inches wide.

to 12 inches long

Auxiliary Fence for Edging

5. Cut out a notch from the 12 inch side of the
3/8 plywood that is 9 1/2 inches long by 3/8
inch wide. The dimensions of the remaining
3/8 plywood are shown in Fig. 139.

Make an auxiliary

• before doing edging with the arm at
0° miter position.

6. Glue the 3/4 inch plywood on top of the
3/8 inch plywood so that their 12 inch sides
are square, as shown;
These Edges Must
Be Parallel

• when existing
damaged.

3/4" Plywood

To make

1-1/4 x
1-1/4

fence for edging:

ones have been

a fence for edging:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot-free)
2. Chat to the dimensions
Auxiliary

2-1

/ __z_L

Fence

lumber.

shown.

Spacer Table
Rear Table

3/8" Plywood

s-!/8
2-1/2
3/8
Note: All Dimensions

3/8

Front Table

in Inches

Fig. 139 - Push Block Dimensions

7. Cut a piece of plywood 3/8 inch wide by
2 1/2 inches long and glue it to the underside
of the 3/8 inch plywood in line with the edge
that sticks out. Do not use nails because if
you accidently cut into the push block with
the saw blade, the nails will dull the blade.

ll--•

1--716--fl_14
"

45°_---_-_45

Note: All Dimensions

' 12_

in Inches

3/4

/ -_ _

Fig. 141- Auxiliary Fence for Edging

8. Lay the push block on top of the auxiliary
fence to make sure that their widths match exactly, and are each 4 3/4 inches.

For use of the molding head or
with saw arbor vertical, the rear
quires an opening (next to rear
for arbor clearance. Cut opening
below arbor in vertical position.
dimensions
are shown below.
Rear Table-_[

Note:

drum sander
table reface of fence)
directly
Opening

---_j_..[_-3

All Dimensions

I3-1/2
__{

in Inches

Fig. 142 - Rear Table Opening Dimensions

_{%i_/i_i_;_
¸ ?/:

When operating the drum sander the motor
must be blown or vacuumed frequently to prevent sawdust buildup which will interfere with
normal motor ventilation.

i_=

Fig. 140 - Way to Use Auxiliary Fence/Push

Block
66

Featherboard
Featherboards
are used during rip cutting to
help keep the workpiece
against the fence.
The featherboard
is clamped to the front
table, so that the angled edge of the featherboard is against the workpiece
on the infeed
end of the blade. The other edge of the
workpiece
is against the fence.

Make new featherboards
have been damaged.

when existing ones

1. Use solid (knot free) lumber
5 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch.

Fig, 144 - Way to Use a Featherboard

24 inches by

2. On the 24 inch sides mark a point 5 1/2 inches down on the left and 9 1/2 inches down
on the right from the edge of the board.
Draw a line between the points.
3.Crosscut workpiece
to make the kerfs.

Attaching
Auxiliary Board
Crooked Workpiece

If the workpiece
you want to rip cut does not
have a straight edge, attach an auxiliary board
to the workpiece.

at a 30 ° angle then rip

4. Do not clamp the featherboard
cut off part of the workpiece.

against

the

1. Place irregular side of workpiece against
fence.
2. Place straight edged auxiliary
of workpiece
and against fence.

board

on top

5-1/2

3. Tack the auxiliary board to the workpiece.
The amxiliary board must not extend beyond
the leading end of the workpiece and should
cover the workpiece width only enough to
pass between the blade and fence.

4-1/2
Note: All Dimensions
Fig, 143 - Featherboard

in Inches

3. Use a fence that is equal to or higher than
the combined height of the workpiece
and
auxiliary board.

Dimensions

Sears Recommends The Following Accessories
Item
Cat. No.
Saw blades
(10" diameter
with 5/8" hole)
See Catalog
9-22221 or 9-22222
Leg Set Caster
9-25246
Sanding
Drum
See
Catalog
Drill Chuck and Key
Dust Collector
See Catalog
See Catalog
Molding
Head Guard
8"
See Catalog
Taper Jig
See Catalog
Auxiliary
Table Cover
See Catalog
Miter Square
Extension
Table
See Catalog
Satin Cut Dado
See Catalog
See Catalog
See Catalog

7"
8"

8" Carbide
Standard
Cut Dado

See Catalog

Adjustable
Dado
7"-24 Tooth Carbide
7"-32 Tooth Carbide
7"-16 Tooth Carbide
8"-48 Tooth Carbide
Molding Heads
7"-Bits Not Included
7"-27 Piece Set
7"-15 Piece Set
Sanding
Wheel-10'
Cabinet Accessories
Shelf
Door
3 Drawer Set
Books
Power Tool Know How
Handbook
Guards
Lower Retractable
Guard
(For 90 ° Crosscut

See
See
See
See

Catalog
Catalog
Catalog
Catalog

See
See
See
See

Catalog
Catalog
Catalog
Catalog
9-22251
9-22252
9-22253

9-29117
9-29009

Only)

Sears may recommend
other accessories not
listed in the manual. See your nearest Sears
store or Catalog department
for other accessories.
Do not use any accessory unless you have
received and read complete instructions
for
its use.
68

Lower Blade Guard Safety Information
IMPORTANT

_WARNING

The following safety information
and instructions apply to all blades and accessories.

Remove the lower blade guard for ALL
other types of cuts except repetitive 90 °
crosscutting. Using the lower guard other
than for repetitive 90 ° crosscutting will increase the risk of certain hazards:

The lower blade guard is required by the Occupational
Safety and Health Administration
(OSHA) if the radial saw is used commercially. The lower blade guard is intended for
use only in repetitive 90 ° crosscutting.
Repetitive 90 ° Crosscutting
is the repeated
and continuous
cutting of many pieces of
lumber to the same length with the saw
placed in the 90 ° crosscut position.
In repetitive 90 ° crosscutting, the guard may
reduce the chance of accidentally
touching
the blade from the side. This protection
is
possible ONLY when:
•

the blade is in its rearmost

position

and

•

the guard is resting on the table so the
leading and trailing teeth of the blade are
not exposed from the sides.

•

During rip and bevel cuts the workpiece
or narrow cut-off pieces can be pinched
between the guard and the blade. Workpiece or cut-off pieces can kickback.

•

In the bevel position the blade teeth are
fully exposed. Fingers or hand can be
cut off.

•

Cut off pieces can jam between the guard
and blade. Turn saw off and wait for
blade to stop before freeing a jammed
guard or blade.

•

Workpiece or cut-off pieces can be violently thrown by the blade. Wear safety
goggles.

CAUTION

The lower blade guard
in fence or table kerfs.

The lower blade guard ONLY provides protection against minor cuts and bruises that
occur from contact with the flat sides of the
spinning blade.

can get caught

Read and follow the warning
outer guard:

or jam

on the lower

_lb WARNING:
The lower blade guard
will not provide any protection if the blade
is pulled over your hand, or your hand enters the blade path from the front or rear of
the blade. Fingers or hand can be cut or
cut off.

WARNING:

TO AVOID INJURY
SHUT OFF POWER
BEFORE CLEARING A
JAMMED LOWER GUARD

Read saw manual for additional
and safety information.

/::7

saw use

Glossary
Molding Cut: Non-through cut which
produces a contoured surface on the
workpiece.

Anti-kickback Pawls: Pivoted objects with
teeth which help prevent workpiece kickback.
Arbor: The bar or shaft that holds the saw
blade.

Outfeed: The end of the saw blade where the
rip cut workpiece leaves the saw blade; identified by presence of pawls.

Beveh The slanting of the motor and blade to
an angle between 0° and 90°.
Crosscut:

Dado:
square

Cutting

Non-through
sided notch

a workpiece

Out-rip: Positioning
the motor toward the
fence, the blade toward the front of the table
during ripping.

to length.

cut which produces a
or trough in the workpiece.

Featherboard:
Device used to keep
workpiece
in contact with the fence
ping.

Parallel:

tance apart
during rip-

Misalignment

blade

travel

Infeed:

of the

blade

relative

The end of the saw blade where

the

ripping;

identified

are the same dis-

at all points.
are 90°

Push Block/Auxiliary
Fence: Two accessories
used together for ripping a workpiece between 1/2 inch and 2 inches wide.
Push Stick: Cutting accessory used during ripping a workpiece between 2 inches and 6 inches wide.

path.

workpiece is fed during
the absence of pawls.

two surfaces

Perpendicular:
When two surfaces
(square) to each other.

Freehand: Performing a cut without the use
of fence, guide or hold-down designed to
prevent the workpiece from moving during
the cutting operation.
Heel:

When

Revolutions Per Minute (RPM): Number of
turns completed
by an object in one minute.

Ripping: Used to change the width of a
workpiece by cutting along its length.

In-Rip: Positioning
the the motor toward the
front of the table, the blade toward the fence.

Spreader: Used during ripping
kerf from closing and pinching
helps prevent kickback.

Kerr: Slot caused by removal of material by
the blade in a through cut, or a shallow slot
produced by the blade in a non-through
cut.

Workpiece:

Kickback: Uncontrolled throwing of the
workpiece during ripping.
Miter: Positioning the saw arm to the right or
left of 0°.

Object

to keep the
the blade. It

being cut by the saw.

Helpful Hints
In order to get accurate cutting results
your radial arm saw, do the following:

1. Follow all steps in the Alignment
the Blade section.

3. Place the same edge of the workpiece
against the fence for all cuts. Make the
first cut at one end of the workpiece,
then flip the workpiece over and make
the second cut from the other end. Con-

from

tinue this way until all four cuts are
made. (Figure 145)

2. Place the long edge of your framing
square against the edge of the
workpiece
that will be held against the
fence during cutting. Make sure that
this edge of the workpieee
is straight.

3. Make sure that your workpiece
lays
flat on the front table of your saw.

4. Clean all sawdust
from the table.

This Edge of Board

Fence

Against Fence For All Cuts

]

Turn workpiece
over end for end...
keep same edge against fence when
making successive cuts.

and woodchips

"/,,,
2nd and 4th Cut

5. Hold the workpiece
firmly against the
fence and table during all cuts. You
should use extra force during miter and
bevel cuts since the workpiece
tends to
move when these cuts are made.

Pencil Line for
Gauging Required Length

Scrap

6. Use the right sawblade for each job,
and make sure that all blades and cutting tools are sharp.
Fig. 145 - Making a 4-Sided Frame

When making a four-sided

frame:
4. Make a pencil line on the table for
gauging the length of each cut.

1. Make sure that the top and bottom
pieces are exactly the same length.

2. Make sure that both side pieces are
exactly the same length.

To extend the life of the front table of your
saw, tack a piece of 1/4 inch plywood over it.
Make sure that the tacks are not in the path
of the saw blade.

3. Lock the miter,

bevel,

or swivel lock.

These steps will reduce stress on saw parts,
and improve the accuracy of your cuts.

Use of a front table cover does the following:
The following table is provided to convert the
decimal numbers on the digital display to
fractions. All decimals are rounded to the
nearest .01 inch. (Figure 146)

.Allows all cuts to be made in the cover
rather than the front table.

• Slows the dulling of the blade.
.06

There are three pre-set miter angles at 45°,
0°, and -45 °, five pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,
-45 °, 0°, 45 °, and 90 °, and three pre-set
swivel angles at the crosscut, in-rip and outrip positions. When you are moving the arm,
blade, or motor into one of these positions,
do the following:

.09
3
.12

._9
.22

.25
.31

.3,1
28
38

1. Move the arm, blade, or motor past
the position you want, and then gradually bring it back.

.44

,47

.50

2. Once the arm, blade, or motor snaps
into the desired position, push it to the
right as far as possible within this position. Movement of the arm, blade, or
motor will be slight.

Decimal Equivalent
146

185

Motor

Frequently
circuit

To avoid motor damage this motor should be
blown out or vacuumed frequently
to prevent
sawdust buildup which will interfere with
normal motor ventilation.

blowing

breakers

may

of fuses
result

or tripping

if:

• Motor is overloaded: Overloading can occur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is misaligned so that the blade heels.

• Motor circuit is fused differently
from recommendations:
Always follow instructions
for the proper fuse/breaker.
Do not use a
fuse/breaker
of greater capacity without
consulting
a qualified electrician.
If the motor fails to start, turn the power
switch to the "OFF"
position immediately.
Remove the yellow key. UNPLUG THE
TOOL. Check the saw blade to insure that it

Low voltage: Although the motor is designed for operation on the voltage and frequency specified on the nameplate,
normal
loads will be handled safely on voltages not
more than 10% above or below the name-

turns freely and that its teeth are not wedged
into the table top. After the blade has been
freed, try to start the motor again. If, at this
point, the motor still fails to start, refer to the
"Motor Trouble-Shooting
Chart."

plate voltage. Heavy loads, however,
require that voltage at motor terminals equal
the voltage specified on nameplate.

• Improper

If the motor should suddenly stall while cutting wood, the power switch should be turned
off, remove the yellow key and unplug the
power cord. Free the blade from the wood.
The motor may now be restarted and the cut
finished.

extension

cord size.

Maintaining

Your Saw

General
_WARNING:

To avoid motor damage the motor should be
blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent
sawdust build-up which will interfere with
normal motor ventilation.

For your own safety,

turn power switch off and remove plug
from power source outlet before maintaining or lubricating your saw.

Lubrication
Your saw is precision built and should be
kept properly lubricated. Before describing
the various points which may periodically require lubrication, it is more important to first
mention the points which should not be lubricated.

When you receive your new Craftsman
radial
saw, it requires no lubrication.
The radial
saw has been partially aligned and all bearings are lubricated
and sealed for life. In
time, however, in order to keep your saw in
perfect working order and accurate, it will be
necessary to lubricate
and realign. In fact
your radial saw needs more of a cleaning
than a lubrication.

Do not lubricate

.carriage

Replacing

Antikickback

the following:

ball bearings

Pawls
• motor

Make sure the teeth of the antikickbackpawls
are always sharp. If they become dull they
must be replaced. With a 1/2 inch wrench or
socket remove the 5/16 hex nut and old

bearings

• area between the miter locking
and the column tube

pawls. Reassemble
new antikickback pawls
and spreader to the bar. Check spreader for
proper alignment
and correct if necessary.
(See Alignment
of the Blade, Installing
Guard / Setting Spreader section.)

rings

The carriage ball bearings and motor bearings
are sealed ball bearings which require no
added lubrication.

Cleaning

Do lubricate the following, periodically,
using
SAE No 10W-30 automotive
engine oil:

Periodically
remove any heavy build-up of
sawdust that may accumulate
on the saw.
The absorbing tendency of sawdust will draw
lubricants away from the areas where they
are needed.
Clean the carriage bearings" and
track surfaces. If packed sawdust and grease
accumulate
repeatedly
on carriage bearings
and track inspect the wipers for wear and
replace if necessary. (See Adjustments
to
Compensate
for Wear, Swivel Lock, later in
this section.)

• Apply a few drops of oil along the
swivel index pin and the bevel index pin
only if the pins have a tendency to
stick. Swivel to in-rip or out-rip for
each access to the swivel indexpin.
Bevel to 45 ° and bevel indexpin can be
easily accessed behind the yoke as
illustrated. (Figure 147)

• Lubricate the cam surfaces of the rip
lock assembly.
• A light film of oil should be wiped on
the face of the column tube to lubricate
the fit between the column tube and
column support. Turn the elevation
handwheel to raise the arm to upper
limit. Wipe a light film of oil on the face
of the column tube.

Apply film of oil here

Fig. 147 - Swivel and Bevel Index Pins

,,I.ubricate the bearing points where the
arm attaches to the column tube. With
a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two
screws and the rear arm cover for access to these points. Be careful not to
get lubricant on the locking rings as this
will adversely affect the miter locking
function. (Figure 148)

LOCKING

Fig. 149 - Oiling column tube.

,The thread on the elevation shaft assembly can be lubricated
through the
oil hole in the center of the radial arm

RING

cap. Lubricate
spring.

ramp on the swivel index

.Apply a few drops of oil to the foot assemblies, where the levers are inserted
through the rods.

Do not use too much oil. Excessive oil at any
location will attract airborne dust particles
and sawdust.
Refer to parts lists for locations
needed.

Fig. 148 - Bearing Points Where Arm Attaches to
Column Tube

of parts as

Adjustments
Bevel

Swivel

for Wear

Lock

This handle

Lock

the upper

provides
face

of the yoke

The purpose of the bevel lock is to lock the
motor at any bevel angle. An adjustment
is
required if the motor can be easily moved by
hand when the bevel lock is locked or if bevel

face

of the carriage.

play

or rotation

lock offers minimal resistance when moving
to the locked position. To make this adjustment:

locked

locked.

between

resistance
position.

when

these

handle

moving

between

the bottom
eliminate

by hand

lock

To make

lock

two

is required

rotated

or yoke

and

It should

An adjustment

can be easily

a friction

parts

when

if the yoke

when
offers

handle

any

handle

minimal

to the locked

this adjustment:

1. Remove motor support cover.
2. Position the motor at approximately 30°
bevel angle and lock bevel lock. (Figure 150)

Fig. 151
L

1. Remove
lock.

Remove

a regular
Fig. 150 - Bevel Lock - Locked

screw
screw

and nut from knob

knob

from swivel

on swivel

lock lever

using

driver.

2. Separate the wrench from the lever by rotating
the wrench a few degrees counterclockwise
from
the lever to disengage tab.

3. With a 3/4 socket tighten the 1/2-13 hex
nut located at the back of the motor support
casting until the motor can -no longer be easily
moved by hand. Do not overtighten.

3. Using the wrench portion, tighten the square
nut one quarter rotation at a time. This is done b)
locating the wrench across the comers of the
square nut then moving the wrench until it lines
up with the lever portion.

4. Unlock bevel lock and move motor to any
of the five index positions. If the motor does
not index securely the adjustment
is too tight.
Loosen 1/2-13 hex nut until bevel indexpin
seats properly.
5. Adjustment
is complete when both locking
and indexing functions are working properly.
Replace motor support cover.

Arm and

Column

With the miter lock unlocked and in the unindexed position the arm should fit snugly to
the column tube and not allow any vertical
movement.
If you can move the end of the
arm up and down an adjustment
is needed.
1. With a #2 Phillips screwdriver
screws and the rear ann cover.

remove

two

2. With a 9/16 inch wrench or socket, tighten
evenly the top two 3/8-!6 hex head screws. The
bottom two screws should also be tightened
evenly but not as tight as the top screws.
(Figure 153)
Ftg. 152

4. Holding

the wrench

rotate yoke

to a non-preset

swivel

5. When

Repeat

be moved

and rotate
If the yoke

nut has not been

can

tight-

step 3.

the adjustment

no longer

position.

the squre

enough.

in position,

position

lock to the locked

still be moved,
ened

and lever

is such that the yoke

when

locked position, re-insert
into the slot in the lever.

the swivel

lock

can

is in the

the tab on the wrench

6. Unlock swivel arm and rotate yoke to a nonpreset position. Return yoke to a rip position. If
the indexpin does not securely seat at the preset
position, the adjustment is too tight. Loosen the
square nut one quarter turn until swivel index pin
seats securely.

Fig. 153 - Location of Hex Head Screws

3. This adjustment is correct when the arm
moves firmly without vertical movement.

7. Adjustment is complete when both locking and
preset position functions are working properly.

4. Re-install
Carriage

8. When the adjustment is such the the yoke can
no longer be moved when the swivel lock is in the
locked position, re-insert the tab on the wrench
into the slot in the lever.
-

-2

9. Re-install
screw

knob

and nut

to swivel

handle

the rear arm cover.

Bearings

The carriage should roll freely but with some
resistance for the entire length of travel. To
check for bearing looseness, perform the following steps.

and install

1. Place yoke in either
position.

in knob.

the in-rip or out-rip,,

2. Push the carriage back against
3. Hold the front carriage
fingers as tight as possible
forward at the same time.
the bearing from turning
required.
(Figure 154)

the rear stop.

bearing with your
and pull carriage
If you can prevent
an adjustment
is

Fig. 155 - Location of Hex Nut

3. Rotate the eccentric bolts a partial turn
(left or right) as required to take up looseness. Both bolts should be adjusted an equal
amount to maintain blade squareness
to the
table in the rip positions.
4. Hold

Fig. 154. Front Carriage Bearings

4. Repeat
ings.
To adjust
following

bearings

perform

of the eccentric

bolts in their

new position and retighten the nuts. Do not
overtighten.
Overtightening
the bearings will
cause difficult operation
and severly reduce
the life of the track and bearings.

step 3 with the rear carriage bear-

the carriage
steps:

the head

the

5. Repeat the test procedure as described
above and readjust if necessary.

1. Clean and lubricate the bearing races and
the bead on which they ride prior to adjustment.

Miter

Lock

The miter lock operates adjustable
locking
bands which lock the arm to the column tube
2. To adjust the beating, use a 9/16 inch
wrench to hold the bolt head while using a
1/2 inch wrench to loosen the hex nut.
(Figure 155)

in both indexed and unindexed
positions. If
the arm can be easily moved by hand when
locked in an unindexed
position the following
adjustment
must be made.

1. Move the arm to an unindexed position
and leave the miter lock in the unlocked
position. (Figure 156)

(

I_"'

_Miter

Lock Handle

Rip Lock
The rip lock locks the carriage in any position
along the length of the arm. If the carriage
can be easily moved by pushing and pulling
on the yoke handle when the rip lock is in the
locked position an adjustment
is required.
1. Hold the rip lock in the unlocked position
and with a 7/16 inch wrench tighten the 1/420 hex lock nut 1/4 turn. (Figure 151)

Arm

Track

Fig. 156 - Miter Lock - Unlocked

2. With a 3/16 inch hex "L" wrench find the
I/4-20 hex socket cap screw through the hole
in the rear of the arm cover. To tighten turn
the wrench clockwise approximately
1/4 turn.
(Figure 157)
Rip Lock
Lever

/
Cam

- ",,
Carriage
Bolt

Fig.

Fig. 157 - Location of Hex Socket Cap Screw

3. I.x_ck the miter lock and try again to move
the arm. Readjust if necessary.
4. If it becomes extremely difficult to push
the miter lock into the locked position too
much adjustment
has been made. Turn the
wrench counterclockwise
one half the
amount of the last adjustment
and try again
to lock the arm.

158 - Location of Hex Lock Nut

2. Lock the rip lock and try again to move the
carriage. Make additional
adjustments
if
necessary.
3. Place the rip lock in the unlocked position
and move the carriage back and forth from
stop to stop. If the carriage is difficult to
move at any point or you can feel the rip lock
dragging on the track the adjustment
is too
tight. Loosen the hex nut one half the
amount of the last adjustment
and try again.

Troubleshooting
_k WARNING:
To avoid injury turn power switch off and remove plug from power
source outlet before troubleshooting.

Electronics
Problem

Probable

No display when On/Off
button is pressed.

Battery not installed

Battery

contacts

Battery

dead.

Indicator

•

dirty.

display failure.

dark.

after a few

Display blanks when
moving carriage, then
re-appears
when motion
stops.

Adjust battery
partment.

position

Clean battery

contacts.

in com-

Replace
alkaline

battery
battery.

with 6V, size J,

Contact
checked

Sears. Have electronics
by qualified technician.

No action required.

Follow procedure
for setting zero
reference points in the Setting
Electronic
Display section.

Poor battery contact
to indicator display leads causing
termittent
power to display.

Clean battery contacts. Adjust
battery position in compartment.

display

Low battery

Display dim.

Display blanks
minutes.

correctly.

Reference points not set for
desired display.

Indicator

Display

What to Do

Normal display when battery
first installed in unit.

Display shows

ELE

Cause

failure.

voltage.

in-

Contact

Sears. Have electronics

checked

by qualified

Replace
alkaline

battery
battery.

technician.

with 6V, size J,

Saw very cold.

Allow
32°F.

Saw very warm.

Allow saw to cool to below

Normal.

Press On/Off button. Display
should return.

Normal. Sometimes
indicator
will not display while blade
position is changing rapidly.

No action

saw to warm to above

reqnired.

120°F.

Electronics - 2
What

Probable

Display shows EEE.E or
EE.EE.

Arm or carriage moved too
rapidly for indicator to monitor,

Follow procedure
for setting
zero reference points in the Setting Electronic
Display section.

Display will reset to zero
but immediately shows
EEE.E or EE.EE when
arm or carriage is moved.

Encoder or indicator
defective.

Have electronics
checked by
qualified technician.
Repair service available at nearest Sears
Store.

Display does not change
when arm or carriage is
moved.

Wrong indicator function
selected.

Select proper function.

Encoder or indicator
defective.

Have electronics checked by
qualified technician. Repair service available at nearest Sears
Store.

Display does not read 0°,
or 45° at bevel or miter indexes.

Cause

to Do

Problem

display

Indicator not set to zero
reference at index points.

Follow procedure
for setting
zero reference
points in the Setting Electronic
Display section.

Angle

Follow procedure
for adjusting
encoders in the Setting
Electronic
Display section.

encoder

not adjusted.

Motor
Problem

Probable

Motor

Low voltage.

Check power
voltage.

Short circuit in line, cord, or
plug.

Inspect line, cord, and plug for
damaged insulation and shorted
wires.

Short circuit in motor or loose
connections.

Inspect all terminals in motor
for loose or shorted terminals
or worn insulation wires.

Incorrect

Install

will not run.

Motor will not run and
fuses blow.

What to Do

Cause

fuses in power

line.

correct

line for proper

fuses.

Motor - 2
Probable

Problem
Motor

fails to develop

full

power.
(Power output of motor
decreases rapidly with
decrease in voltage at
motor terminals. For example: a reduction
of
10% in voltage causes a
reduction
of 19% in maximum power output of
which the motor is
capable, while a reduction
of 20% in voltage causes a
reduction
of 36% in maximum power output.)
Motor

overheats.

What

Cause

to Do

Power line overloaded with
lights, appliances, and other
motors.

Reduce

Undersize

Increase wire sizes, or reduce
length of wiring.

wires or circuit too

long.

the line load.

General overloading of power
company's facilities.
(In many sections of the
country, demand for electrical
power exceeds the capacity of
existing generating and distribution systems).

Request a voltage check from
power company.

Excessive

Slow down rate of feed.

crosscutting

feed rate when
or ripping.

Improper cooling.
(Air circulation
restricted
through motor due to sawdust,
etc.)

Clean out sawdust to provide
normal air circulation
through
motor.

Saw blade

Refer to Making
to Table section.

has heel.

Blade Parallel

Motor starts slowly or
fails to come up to full
speed.

Starting switch will not trip due
to low voltage.

Correct

low voltage

Motor stalls resulting in
blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers.

Voltage too low to permit
motor to reach operating speed,

Correct
dition.

the low line voltage

Fuses or circuit breakers
have sufficient capacity,

Replace
breakers
unit_.

fuses or circuit
with proper capacity

Reduce

motor

Frequent opening of fuses
or circuit breakers.

Motor

do not

overloaded.

Fuses or circuit breakers
have sufficient capacity.

do not

condition.

load.

Replace fuses or circuit
breakers.

con-

Saw Operations
Problem
Crosscuts
not accurate
0° and 45 ° miter.

Probable

Cause

Looseness

What

between

and column

Go to Alignment
Adjusting

of the Blade,

E_evation.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Crosscut Travel.

not square

is loose in support.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Adjusting Elevation.

Arm not indexing properly.

Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear,
Miter
I_ck.

Carriage

Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Ripping.

Column

assembly

loose on arm.

Looseness
between
riage assembly.

yoke and car-

Sawdust between
fence.
Fence
bevel

tube

support.

Crosscut travel
with fence.

Saw cuts at slight
(not 90 ° to table).

column

to Do

workpiece

not square

Carriage

Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Swivel
Lock.

Keep front table clean.

Replace fence.

not straight.

Work table not properly

Blade

and

of the Blade,
to Table
for

to table.

Bearings

Loose

Bevel lock loose.

leveled.

Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Leveling Front Table.
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Crosscutting.

of the Blade,
to Table
for

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Table for
Ripping.
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear,
Bevel
Lock.

Saw Operations

-2
What to Do

Problem

Probable

Workpiece
kerr rough
with tooth marks from

Saw blade not square
to fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Fence.

Saw blade
to table.

Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.

blade

Cause

(also called heel).
not parallel

Using improper
cut desired.
Wood binds, smokes, and
motor slows down or stops
when ripping.

Dull blade

Feed

blade for finish

or warped

board.

rate too fast.

Saw blade

Fence

smooth

cutting

Sharpen or replace the saw
blade. Do not use severely
warped material.
Slow feed rate.

heels.

Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.

not straight.

Carriage

Use proper
blade.

Replace

assembly

loose on arm.

fence.

Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Table for Ripping.

Board pulls away from
fence when ripping.

Saw blade has heel.

Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Workpiece
strikes
spreader when ripping,

Spreader

Go to Alignment
Installing Guard
Spreader.

Saw does not travel
smoothly on arm.

Dirty track.

Clean track and lubricate
light grease.

Bad bearing.

Replace

bearing.

Worn

Replace

track.

Clamping force not sufficient at miter angles other
than 45 °.

not in line with blade.

track.

Miter lock needs

adjustment.

of the Blade,
/ Setting

with

Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Miter
Lock.

Saw Operations

-3

Problem

Probable

What to Do

Cause

Clamping force not sufficient at bevel angles other
than 45 °.

Bevel lock needs

Depth of cut varies from
one end of the workpiece
to the other.

Table

Blade tends to advance
through lumber too fast.

Dull blade.

adjusting.

top not parallel

Not advancing

with arm.

Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Bevel
Lock.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Leveling Front Table.

Replace
saw properly.

or sharpen

Draw saw blade

blade.

across

with a slow and steady
Table

cannot

be leveled.

(Right side is higher than
left side with no adjustment
left, or vice versa.)

Column support shifted where it
mounts to saw base.

Loosen

lumber
pull.

the six bolts that hold

the column support
base and shift arm.

to the saw

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

11
(See Fig. 8)

\
3
8

I0
(See Fig.6)

r
17

\
18

23
27
(See Fig. 2)

(See Fig 3 & 4)

(See F g. 7)

(See Fig. 2)

FIGURE

PARTS

LIST

FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL
NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

Always order by Part Number--Not
FIGURE

Part
No.
816333-1
STD551010
60339
60353
808380-6
815649
815710
815820
816333

60074
806828-3
STD551012
STD512510
STD551225

Description
*Screw, Pan Rec.
Type "'IT" 10-32 x 1/2
*Washer, Flat
13/64 x 7/16 x 1/16
Bolt Hex Hd.
3/8-16 x 2-1/8
Washer, .380 x 47/64 x 1/8
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Plastite No. 8 x 1
Bearing, Arm
Strap
Cap, Arm
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "TT" 10-32 x 718
Arm Assembly (see Fig. 6)
Table Board Set (see Fig. 8)
Screw, Hex Socket Set
1/4-20 x 7/8
Screw, Pan Hd. Rec.
Type "T" 1/4-20 x 1-3/4
*Washer, 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
*Screw, Pan Hd. 114-20 x 1
*Lockwasher 1/4

by Key Number

Key
No.

Part
No.

17
18

STD541025
37384

19
20
21
22
23
24

815989
STD541037
815774
60208
815980
815856-1
m

26
25
27

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

SAW

28
29
30

818192
818193
805589-5

31
32

818172
815773
SP5250
507967

Description
"Nut, Hex 1/4-20
Nut, Tee
Clip, "U" 114-20
"Nut, Hex 318-16
Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2
Nut, Push 1f4
Bushing
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
5/16-18 x 1-1/4
Yoke and Motor Assembly
(see Fig., 3 & 4)
Guard Assembly
(see Fig. 7)
Base and Column Assembly
(see Fig. 2)
Cap, Trim R.H.
Cap, Trim LH.
Screw, Truss Hd.
1/4-20 x 1/2
Cord with Plug
Cover, Rear Arm
Owners Manual (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

FIGURE
88

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

Always order by Part Number--Not

FIGURE 2--BASE

Key]

No. I

Part
No.

by Key Number

AND COLUMN

Description

SAW

ASSEMBLY

Ke f

Part

NO.

No.

Description

; ! 60339

3!
4

815649
817398-2

5E 815774
61 818198
60208
81 815763
91 816647
101
111
121
131

818226
815770
STD581043
63500

141 818165
151 63614
161 817398-1
171 STD541037
181 818212
191 STD523107

2O I 818177
21
22
23
24

I
I
I
I

STD582050
815772
STD541031
STD551131

9416187

Bolt, Hex Hd.
3/8-16 x 2-1/8
Bearing, Arm
*Screw, Socket Hd. Cap
1/4-20 x 1-1/4
Rivet, 1/4 x 1t2
Lock Assembly
Nut, Push 114
Latch, Arm
Screw, Soc. Hd. Type "T"
1/4-20 x 3/4
Tube
Gib, Column Tube
*Ring, Retaining 7/16
Washer, Thrust
.502 x .927 x .031
Gear, Pinion
Bearing, Lift Shaft
Screw, Locking Cap
1/4-20 x 5/8
*Nut, Hex 3!8-16
Support, Column Tube
*Screw, Hex., Hd.
5/16-18 x 3/4
Shaft, Elevating Crank
* Ring, Retaining 1/2
Bushing, Elevation
*Nut, Hex 5/16-18
*Lockwasher, External 5/16

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

26
27

818237
STD551210
STD511105
818199
60013
STD523107
818215
818166
818161
120399
818162
STD541450
817106
818164
STD610803

41
42
43
44

815749-1
817022
818167
STD601103

45
46
47
48

815826
818224
815864
815865

3540

Screw, Hex Hd. Type "T"
5/16-18 x 3/4
Handwheel
* Lockwasher, External #10
*Screw, Pan Hd. 10-32 x 1/2
Channel, Table Mtg.
Washer, 11132x 7/8 x 1!16
*Screw, Hex Hd., 5/16-18 x 3/4
Base Assembly
Bracket, Clamp
Shoe, Table Clamp
*Nut, Square 5/16-18
Screw, Clamp
*Nut, Lock 1/2-13
Washer, Keyed
Gear, Bevel
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "AB" #8 x 3/8
Encoder, Elevation
Cord, Elevation
Shaft, Elevating
* Screw, Pan Rec. Hd. Type "T"
10-32 x 3/8
Actuator, Elevation
Nut, Elevation
Cover, Column Support
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
Type "T" 1/4-20 x 1/2
Wrench

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

1
2

4
5

14
15

MOTOR

CORD
25

21
22
27

23
15

FIGURE

PARTS

LIST

FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL
NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

Always order by Part Number--Not
FIGURE

Part
No.

818922
818202
815678
815679-1
805561-10
815791
818154
815813
815836
818204
815799
806828

815992

3--YOKE

AND

Description
Yoke Assembly (see Figure 4)
Screw, Flat Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 1
Handle, Yoke
Washer, Shaft
Pin, Index
Washer, .505 x 7t8 x 1/16
Spring, Bevel
Lever, Bevel Lock
Nut, Square 1/2-13
Wedge, Bevel Spring
Cover, Yoke
Plug, Yoke
Screw, Pan Hd.
Type "T" 1t4-20 x 1/2
Screw, Soc. Hd. Type "TT"
1/4-20 x 5/8

by Key Number

MOTOR

ASSEMBLY

Key
No.

Part
No.

15
16

STD551012
818888

STD510802

18
19
20
21

815802
818197
815751
STD601103

221
23
25
26
27
28

SAW

Description

STD551010
508153

*Washer, 17164 x 9t16 x 1/16
* Motor (Complete)
(See Fig. 5)
*Screw, Pan Hd.
Type "T" 8-32 x 5/16
Guide, Bevel Reader
Plate, Index
Encoder, Bevel
*Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
Type "T" 10-32 x 1/2
*Washer, 3/16 x 3/8 x 1/32
Shaft Support

805839-1
62498
9-32668
30495

Nut Lock 1/2-13
Collar, Blade
tBlade, Saw
Nut, Shaft

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.
tStock Item may be Secured Through the Hardware Department of Most Sears Retail or Catalog Order Houses.
*Any attempt to repair this motor may result in unit misalignment and create a HAZARD unless repair is done by a
qualified service technician. Do not loosen the three screws holding the motor support to the motor. This assembly is factory aligned. Repair service is available at your nearest Sears Store.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW
MODEL NOS. 113,197210 and 113.197250

13
8

°
2

_-_

22
36
38

FIGURE 4

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

Always order by Part Number--Not
FIGURE

Key
No.

Part
No.

810214-3

2
3
4
5
6
7
8

STD315485
STD551031
817181
815689
STD551062
815827
STD600803

9
10
11
12
13
14
15

815817
STD541462
62636
815693
STD541425
62520
273229

16
17
18
19
20

816497
815671
818155
STD532510
STD541231

4--YOKE

SAW

by Key Number

ASSEMBLY

Key
No.

Description
Screw, Low Hd.
Cap 5/16-18 x 718
*Bearing, Ball .3150 I.D.
*Washer, 21164 x 5/8 x 1/32
Wiper, Track
Carriage
*Washer, .360 x 1-1/8 x 3/32
Actuator, Rip
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" 8-32 x 3/8
Nut, Square Lock
*Nut, Lock 5/8-11
Nut, Square 1/4-20
Bracket, Rip Lock
*Nut, Lock 1/4-20
Spacer
Screw, Hex Hd.
Type "T" 1/4-20 x 112
Spring, Rip Lock
Cam, Rip Lock
Lever, Rip Lock
*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 1
*Nut, Hex Jam 5/16-18

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Part
No.

21
22
23
24

STD551131
815691
STD551012
817398-1

25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32

818207
109529
508155
816988
STD541025
815680
815679
806828

STD512515

35
36
37
38

815694
STD551031
63777
60438

815807

Description
* Lockwasher, External 5/16
Ring, Yoke Index
*Washer, 17/64 x 7/16 x 1132
Screw, Cap Locking,
1/4-20 x 5/8
Yoke
Nut, Square 5/8-11
Wrench, Adjustment
Knob, Swivel
* Nut, Hex 1!4-20
Spring, Swivel
Pin Index
Screw, Pan Hd.
Type "T" 1/4-20 x 112
*Screw, Pan Hd.
1/4-20 x 1-1/2
Stud, Yoke Clamp
*Washer, 21164 x 3/4 x 1/16
Bearing, Carriage
Washer, No. 2 Carriage
Bearing
Screw, Eccentric

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

\
\

FIGURE 5

PARTS

LIST

FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL
NOS. 113.197210
and 113.197250

Always order by Part Number--Not
FIGURE

I Key t
No.

5--MOTOR

by Key Number

ASSEMBLY

Part
No.
507744
STD376116
64950
64951
64948
30582

Description
Housing, Motor
*Capacitor
Screw, Type "T"
Screw, Flat Head
Screw, Ground
Cap, Shaft

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

SAW

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

FIGURE

PARTS

LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL
NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

Always order by Part Number--Not

FIGURE

Key
No.

Part
No.

1
2
3
4
5
6
7

818239
169123-2
815809
815774
818182
60208
STD601103

8
9

815703
815856

10
11
12
13
14
15
16

815779
815741
STD363539
815735
815704
STD551208
STD600803

17!

63467
816113
9-22256
815976
STD375006

19
20

6--ARM

SAW

by Key Number

ASSEMBLY

Part

.oI

Description
Arm, Radial
Relief, Strain
Cable
Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2
Actuator Assembly
Push Nut, 1/4
*Screw, Pan Rec.
Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8
Knob, Miter Lock
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
5!16-18 x 3/4
Bushing
Controls, R.S.
.Battery
Lid, Battery Access
Housing, Switch
"Lockwasher, Internal #8
"Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" #8-32 x 3/8
Cap, Flag Terminal
Switch, Locking
tKey, Switch
Bezel, Switch
Connector, Wire

No.

22
23
24
25

818521
816492
815789
STD601103

816490

27
28

815784
816333-3

29
30
31
32
33

STD551210
816178
815867
815708
STD551010
815752
808380-10

36
38

815868
818088-1
346030

818536

Description
Bumper, Rubber
Clip, Wire
Relief, Strain
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" #!0-32 x 318
Encoder, Rip
(Includes Key #23)
Label, Trim L.H.
Screw, Pan Hd.
Type "TT" 10-32 x 5/8
* Lockwasher, Ext. #10
Sleeve, Rubber
Spring, Compression
Spring, Miter Lock
*Washer,
13164 x 5/8 x 1/32
Encoder, Miter
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Plastite #10-14 x 3/8
Relief, Strain
Track, Arm
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
8-10 x 1/2
Label, Trim R.H.

* Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.
• Can also use these battery numbers:
Eveready #539
Rayovac #867
Duracel #7K67
tStock Item may be secured through the Hardware Department of Most Sears Retail or Catalog Order Houses.

PARTS

LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113,197250

SAW

\
12

Always order

Key
No.

Par1
No.

1 816264-1
2 120399
3 63258
4 63541
5 815816
6 STD551010
7 STD601103
8
9

STD541231
815815

*Standard

Hardware

7 - GUARD

by Part Number

Guard
"Nut, Square 5/16-18
Elbow, Dust
Bar, Anti-Kickback
Guide, Anti-Kickback
*Washer, 13/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
*Screw, Pan Hd.
Type "T'" 10-32 x 3/8
*Nut, Hex Jam 5116-18
Pawl

Item

may be Purchased

ASSEMBLY
- Not by Key Number

Key
No.

Description

Locally.

11
9

FIGURE

Part
No.

10
11
12
13
14
15

STD581050
63270
816341
60435
1816070
166785-3

16
17
18
19

63538
STD510805
STD551208
STD541008

Description
*Ring, Retaining
Spreader
Bearing (Includes Key #10)
Grip
Screw, Guard Clamp
Screw, Wing 5/16-18 x 2-3/4
Clamp, Guard
"Screw, Pan Hd. 8-32 x I/2
"Lockwasher, External No. 8
*Nut, Hex 8-32

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

Always

order by Part Number

FIGURE

Keyl
No.
,

8 - TABLE

Part
No.

- Not by Key Number

ASSEMBLY

Description

1,
2
3
4

818169
818168
63432
818191

* Standard

Hardware

Table, Rear
Table Spacer
Fence, Rip
Table, Front

Item may be Purchased

Locally.

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

Always order by Part Number--Not

FIGURE 9--PARTS
Key
No.

Part
No.

805589-5

2
3
4
5

815900
817151
815933
STD600603

6 815887
7 _816274
8
9

815882
816274-1

*Standard

Hardware

LIST 23" CABINET
Key

Description

NO.

10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19

Screw, Truss Hd
1/4-20 x 1/2
Skirt 23"
Panel, Side R.H.
Catch, Magnetic
*Screw, Pan Hd.
Type "T" 6-32 x 3/8
Shelf, Lower 23"
Screw, Pan Hd.
Plastite 6-10 x 1/2
Door, Cabinet
Screw, Pan Hd.
Plastite 10-10 x 1/2
Item may be Purchased

Locally,
100

by Key Number

(MODEL 113.197210

ONLY)

Part
No.

Description

815934
815993
816063
STD541025
STD551225
817108
817150
803835-1
STD541237
816004
507530
508166

Hinge, Door
Bracket, Corner
Stiffener, Shelf
*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
* Lockwasher, Ext. 1/4
Spacer
Panel, Side L.H.
Foot, Leveling
*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16
Caster, Stationary
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

PARTS

LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.197210 and 113.197250

SAW

\
4

8 9

Always order by Part Number--Not
FIGURE

10--LEG

SET (MODEL

by Key Number
113.197250)

Part
No.

818213
818163
815909
818170
STD541237
803835-!
805589-5
STD551225
STD541025
507968

Description

Leg
Channel, Leg
Stiffener, Lower
Bracket, Leg
*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16
Foot, Leveling
Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2
* Lockwasher, Int. 1/4
* Nut. 1/4-20
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

101

NOTES

102

NOTES

103

SE_ARS
Operators
Manual

SERVICE

MODEL NO.
113.197210

10-INCH ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW

Now that you have purchased your 10-inch electronic radial saw, should
a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears
Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. stores. Be sure to
provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.
The model number of your 10-inch electronic radial saw will be found on
a plate attached to your saw, at the left-hand side of the base.

10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW WITH
23" CABINET AND
1 DOOR

113.197250

WHEN ORDERING
ING INFORMATION:

10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW WITH
LEG SET

REPAIR

PARTS,

PART NUMBER
MODEL

NUMBER

113.197210
113.197250

HOW TO ORDER
REPAIR PARTS

ALWAYS GIVE THE

FOLLOW-

PART DESCRIPTION
NAME OF ITEM
ELECTRONIC
10-INCH RADIAL SAW

All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears Service Center and most
Sears stores. If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will
be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center
for handling.

J
Sold by SEARS,
Part No. SP5250

ROEBUCK

AND CO., Chicago,

Form No. SP5250-4

IL. 60684 U.S.A.
Printed in U.S.A. 11/90

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Craftsman 113197250 User Manual RADIAL ARM SAW Manuals And Guides L0805382

CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Manual L0805382 CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial Owner's Manual, CRAFTSMAN Saw Radial installation guides

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