Craftsman 113228162 User Manual WOOD LATHE Manuals And Guides L0803531

CRAFTSMAN Lathe Manual L0803531 CRAFTSMAN Lathe Owner's Manual, CRAFTSMAN Lathe installation guides

User Manual: Craftsman 113228162 113228162 CRAFTSMAN WOOD LATHE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your CRAFTSMAN WOOD LATHE #113228162. Home:Tool Parts:Craftsman Parts:Craftsman WOOD LATHE Manual

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MODEL NO.
313.228362
LATHE WITH MOTOR

[serial
! Number

Model and serial
number

may be found

under belt guard.
You should record

!2-INCH
WOOO-TURNING

both

model and serial number
in a safe place for

future use.

CAUTION.
Read

GENERAL

ADDITIONAL

[A THE

* assembly

, operating
®repair parts

and

SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS
cerefully

Sold
t No.

SEARS,

SP4938

ROEBUCK

AND

CO.,

Chicago,

IL.

60684

U.S.A.
_e_

,'<_

FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY

ON CRAFTSMAN

if within One year from the date of purchsse, this Craftsman
workmanship. Sears will repair it, free of cha rge.
WARRANTY
SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT
THIS

wARRANTY

This warranty

ONLY WHILE THIS

gives you =pecifi0

Wood L_the fails due to a defect

IS AVAILABLE
BY SIMPLY
CONTACTING
THROUGHOUT
THE UNITED STATES.

APPLtES

PRODUCT

WOOD LATHE

THE

IS iN USE'IN

NEAREST

THE UNITED

AND CO., D/817 WA HOFFMAN

Read and understand
owner's
the tool, Learn its apphcation

This
cord

hazards

manual and labels affixed
to
and imitations
as well as _ts

peculiar

to this tool.

grounding
type receptacle.
cord is the grounding
wire,
to a live terminal.
=n working

4. REMOVE

and in proper

ADJUSTING

adjustment

and

6. AVOID

see that keys and adjusting
toot before turning
=t on.

and benches

nvite

accidents.

Flour

must

due to wax Or sawdust.

DANGEROUS

7. KEEP CHILDREN
All visitors

ENVIRONMENT

should

AWAY

15.

MAINTAIN

padlocks,

from

Work

switches,

or by removing

starter

and safer when

ooerated

12. USE SAFETY

19. NEVER

switch

accessories

attach-

STARTING

is m "OFF"

position

before

plugging

ENDED ACC ESSORIES

STAND
injury

could

ON LATHE
occur

to do a job for

which

DAMAGED

further

if the Lathe tips over.

for

that

Lathe,

be carefully

properly

it is necessary

a guard or other
checked

and perform

alignment

to stand

PARTS

use of the
should

operate

of moving

its intended

oarts,

part that

to ensure

that

functiom

binding.of

moving

parts, breakage
of parts, mounting,
and any other conditions
that may affect
its operation,
A guard or other
part

that

is damaged

should

be properly

repaired

replaced.

clothing,
gloves, neckties
or jewelry
to get caught
i_ moving
parts.
is recommended.
Wear
protective
tong

GOGGLES

changing

Consult
this owner'smanua
for recommended
accessories.
Follow
the instructions
that accompany
the accessories.
The use of improper
accessories may cause hazards.

Check

11. WEAR PROPER APPAREL

contain

when

18. USE RECOMM

wilt

or attachment

DO not wear loose
(rings;
wristwatches)
NONSLIP
footwear

YOUR LATHE

ACCIDENTAL

sure

s damaged

was not designed.

hair
covering
to
above the elbow.

Make

20. CHECK

TOOL
toot

17. AVOID

Before

The Lathe will do the job better
at the proper speed.

force

at all times.

TOOLS WITH CARE

Do not store materials
such
on the tool to reach them.

9. USE PROPER SPEED

10. USE RIGHT

ann balance

centers.

area.

CHILD-PROOF

master

footing

servicing;

Serious

be kept a safe distance

8. MAKE WORKSHOP

Don't

DON'T OVERREACH

between

Don't use power tools in damp or wet locations or expose
them to rain. Keep work area well lighted, Provide
adequate surround
ng work space:

- with
keys.

14.

before
ments.

AREACLEAN

areas

not be slippery

secureIv

16, DISCONNECT

align-

KEYS AND WRENCHES

Form
habt
of checking
to
wrenches
are removed
from

5, KEEP WORK

workpiece

Keep tools sharp and clean for best and safest performance. Follow
instructions
for
ubricating
and changing
accessori as.

The green conductor
in the
Never connect the green wire

IN PLACE

order,

tools

Kee3 proper
3-conductor
fit the proper

mort,

Cluttered

Vlount

THE LATHE

Lathe is equipped
wi_h an approved
and a 3-prong grounding
type plug to

3. KEEP GUARDS

STATES.

13. SECURE WORKPIECE

1. KNOW. YOUR LATHE

2. GROUND

SERVICE

ESTATES, IL 60195

general safety instructions for power
Potential

SEARS

legal rights, and you may atso have other rights which vary from state to state.

SEARS, ROEBUCK

specific

in material

hair.

Roll

long

sleeves

(Head Protection)

Wear safety goggles (must comply
with ANSI Z87.1)
at all
times. Everyday
eyeglasses only have impact resistant lenses, they are NOT safety glasses. Also, use face or dust
mask if cutting
operation
is dusty,
and ear protectors
(plugs or muffs) du ring extended periods of operation.

21, DIRECTION
Apply

cutting

OF FEED
tool

to the workpJece

against

the direction

of sDindl%rotation.

22. NEVER LEAVE
ATTENDED
Turn power "OFF"
complete
stop.

LATHE
Don't

RUNNING
leave Lathe

until

it comes to a

Safety is a combination of operator common sense and
alertness at all times when the Lathe is being used.

Never operate the Lathe with protective
cover
the unused shaft end of the motor removed,

WARNING:
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY,
DO
NOT ATTEMPT
TO OPERATE YOUR LATHE
UNTIL iT iS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED AND
INSTALLED
ACCORDING
TO THE INSTRUCTIONS . . . AND UNTIL YOU HAVE READ
AND UNDERSTAND
THE FOLLOWING:

Hang your turning tools on the wall toward
the tailstock end of the Lathe. Do not lay them on the bench
so that you must reach over the revolving
workpiece
to select them.
8. Keep firm hold and control of the turning
toot at aH
times. Speciat caution must be exercised when knots or
voids are exposed to the turning tool.

PAG E
1. General Safety Instructions
..................
2. Getting to Know Your Lathe ..................
3, Basic Lathe Operation .......................
4, Maintenance
..............................

2
11
13
30

9. Note the following
DANGER
the front of the belt guard.

6. Protection:

Eyes,

down

to a stand

the

turning

tool

to "bite"

into

e. Do not run the Lathe in the wrong direction.
could
cause the turning
tool to be thrown

Lathe must run in a direction
turns toward you.

fasten

the

Failure
to perform
cause the workpiece
g. Avoid
awkward
slip could cause
h. Remove
between
i.

This
from

workpiece

securely

to the

these set-up operations
to be thrown
from the

t0.

Think

Complete
hand
sanding
of
between-centers
or
faceplate
mounted
workpieces
BEFORE
removing
from the lathe. Do not exceed the speed used for the
last cutting operation
performed
on the workpiece,
in
accordance
with the speed chart.

12.

NEVER
attempt
to remount
a faceptate
turning
to
the faceplate
for any reason. NEVER
attempt
to
remount
a between-centers
turning
if the original
centers in the turning
have been altered or removed.
BE POSITIVE
the lathe _s set at the lowest speed if

t3.

face-

could
Lathe,

a between-centers
original centers.

turning

with

Use extra caution
in mounting
a between-centers
or
spindle turning to the faceplate,
or a faceplate turning
to between-centers,
for subsequent
operations.
BE
POSITIVE
the lathe is set at the _owest speed before
turning

ON.

14,

NEVER
checks,
centers.

15.

Do not perform any operation
when hand holding the
workpiece.
Do not mount
a reamer,
mHIing cutter,
wire
wheeI,
buffing
wheel,
or a drill
bit to the
headstock
spindie.

16.

Use the drill chuck accessory
Do not mount
any dri_I that

workpiece

Never leave the Lathe work area with the power on
before the Lathe has come to a complete
stop, or
without
removing
and storing the switch key.

Safety,

remounting
non-altered

hand positions,
where
a sudden
a hand to move into the workpiece.

all loose knots before installing
centers or on the faceplate.

SAFETY:

11.

Before attaching
a workpiece
to the faceplate
always "rough
it out" to as "true round"
as possible.
This will minimize
vibration
while turning.
Always
plate.

OWN

6. DO NOT MOUNT SPLIT OR CHECKED
WORKP|ECE OR ONE CONTAINING
KNOT.
7. ALWAYS
USE
LOWEST
SPEED WHEN
STARTING
A NEW WORKPIECE,
USING
FACEPLATE OR TURNING BETWEEN CENTERS, TO MINIMIZE POTENTIAL
iNJURY.

the

workpiece
which
could
result in splitting
of the
workpiece
or the workpiece
being thrown
from the
Lathe.
Always
position
the tool rest above the
centedine
of the Lathe for spindle turning. Do not
apply the turning
tool to the workpiece
below the
level of the toot rest.

your hands. The
that the workpiece

YOUR

2. DO NOT WEAR GLOVES, NECKTIES,
OR
LOOSE CLOTHING. TIE BACK LONG HAIR.
3. BE POSITIVE ALL LOCKS ARE TIGHT BEFORE OPERATING MACHINE,
4. TURN
WORKPIECE
BY HAND
BEFORE
APPLYING POWER TO DETERMINE
IF IT
CLEARS THE TOOL REST OR OTHER MACHINE PARTS.
5. ROUGH OUT FACEPLATE
WORKPIECES
BEFORE INSTALLING
ON FACEPLATE TO
AVOID EXCESSIVE VIBRATION
AND POSSIBLE INJURY,

c. Always
revolve the workpiece by hand before turning on the motor.
If the workpiece
strikes the too!
rest, it could split and be thrown
out of the Lathe.
allow

1. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES PER ANSI Z87.1
AND FACE SHIELD
IF OPERATION
iS
DUSTY.

Hands, Face, Ears, Body

b. When turning between
centers or on the faceplate,
always
rough-out
"out
of round"
workpieces
at
stow speed. Running
the Lathe too fast, so that it
vibrates,
could cause the workpiece
to be thrown
from the Lathe.
_ , or the turning
tool to be jerked
from your hands,

not

appears

READ AND UNDERSTAND
THE OWNER'S
MANUAL
BEFORE OPERATING
MACHINE;

a. Wear safety goggles that comply with ANSI Z87.t1968, and a face shield if operation is dusty. Wear
ear plugs or muffs
during
extended
periods
of
operation.

d. Do

which

DANGER
FOR

5. The Lathe and motor
must be bolted
or workbench
for stability.

label

mount a workpiece
or loose knots
to

inches beyond

chuck

jaws.

that contains any splits,
a faceplate
or between

in the tai! stock o_,_y,
extends
more than 6

WARNING:
DO NOT ALLOW FAMaUARITY (GAINED
FROM FREO_ENT
USE OF YOUR MACHINE) TO BECOME COMMONPLACE.
ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT
ACARELESSFRACTIONOFASECOND
ISSUFFICIENT
T01NFUCTSEVERE
INJURY.

WARNING:
THE FOUR STEP LATHE AND MOTOR
PULLEYS FURNISHED
ARE DESIGNED TO RUN THE
LATHEATTHECORRECTSPEEDSWHENUSEDWnTH
A 1725 R.PoM. MOTOR. DO NOT USE A 3450 R.P.M.
MOTOR
TO INCREASE
THE SPEED BECAUSE IT
COULD BE DANGEROUS.

The operation of any power tool can result in foreign
objects being thrown into the eyes, which can result in
severe eye damage. Always wea r safety gogg|escomplying
with ANSI Z87.1 (shown on Package) before commencing
power tool operation. Safety Goggles are available at Sears
retail or catalog stores.
CONTENTS
GENERAL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR POWER TOOLS ....
ADDITIONAL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR WOOD TURNING
LATHE .......................................
MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS AND ELECTRICAL
REQUIREMENTS
...............................
UNPACKING AND CHECKING CONTENTS ...............
ASSEMBLY . ; ...................................
Mounting Lathe and Motor on Workbench ...........
Spur and Cup/Center Installation
.................
Om0ff Switch ...............................
Check Motor Rotation .........................
GETTING TO KNOW YOUR WOO D LATHE .............
Belt Guard Lock .............................
Index Pin ..................................
Spindle Lock Hole .. ; .........................
Tool Rest Bracket Lock ........................
Tool Rest Lock ...............................
To0t Rest Base Lock ..........................
Handwheel ..................................

TailstockRam Lock ...........................
TailstockLock ...............................
On*Off Switch ..............................

motor

2
3
4
5
6
7
9
I0
11
11
1t
11
1t
11
11
1t
11

11
11
1t

specifications

and

This Lathe is designed to use a 1725 RPM motor only. Do
not use any motor that runs faster than 1725 RPM. It is
wired for operation on 110.120 volts, 60 Hz., alternating
current, IT MUST NOT BE CONVERTED TO OPERATE
ON 230VOLTS.
EVEN THOUGH SOME OF THE RECOMMENDED MOTORS ARE DUAL VOLTAGE.

Spur

Center and

Cup Center

{Aligning

Centers)

......

Tailstock ...................................
Speed Chart ................................
BASIC LATHE OPERATIONS .......................
Changing Speeds ............................
SpindleTurning .............................
Indexing...................................
HOW TO USE YOUR CRAFTSMANWOOD-LATHE ........
Woodworking Chisels and How to Use Them ........
Making Standard Cuts .........................
How to Handle Spindle Turnings .................
Miscellaneous Operations
......................
Faceplate and Chuck Turnings ...................
How to Make Fancy Faceplate Turnings ............
How to Turn Plastics ..........................
Sanding, Buffing and Polishing ..................
MAINTENANCE .................................
LUBRICATION ..................................
RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES ....................
TROUBLESHOOTING
.............................
REPAIR PARTS .................................

eJectrica
ARD SUCH AS
CUTTING TOOL.

12
13
13
13
14
15
16
16
20
22
24
25
26
28
29
30
30
31
31
33

requirements
YOUR

HANDS

CONTACTING

THE

If power cord is worn or cut. or damaged in any way,
have it replaced immediately.
tf your unit is for use on less than t50 volts it has a plug
that looks like below.

THESE MOTORS HAVE BEEN FOUND TO BE
ACCEPTABLE FOR USE ON THIS TOOL,
HP
RPM
VOLTS
CATALOG NO,
1/3
t/2
;/2
1/2

1725
1725
1725
1725

110-120
110-120
110-120
1t0-120

1282
1278
1279
1289

_3"PROI_G

PROPERLY GROUNDED
3-PltONG
OUTLET
GROUNOfNG
P_tONG

CAUTION: Do not use blower or washing machine motors
or any motor with an automatic resezoverload protector
as their use may be hazardous.
CONNECTING

TO POWER

SOURCE

OUTLET

This machine must be grounded while in use to protect the
operator from electric shock.
Plug power cord into a 110-120V properly grounded type
outlet protected by a 15-amp. dual element time deiay or
Circuit-Saver fuse or circuit breaker,

PLUG

This power tool is equipped with a 3-conductor cord and
grounding type plug which has a grounding prong, approved
by Underwriters' Laboratories, The ground conductor has
a green jacket and is attached to the tool housing at one
end and to the ground prong in the attachment plug at the
other end.
This plug requires
outlet as shown.

a mating

3-conductor

grounded

type

If you are not sure that you r outlet is properly grounded,
have it checked by s qualified electrician.
WARNING:
DO NOT PERMIT FINGERS TO TOUCH
THE TERMINALS OF PLUGS WHEN INSTALLING OR
REMOVING THE PLUG TO OR FROM THE OUTLET.

If the outlet you are planning
to use for this power tool is
of the two prong type
DO NOT REMOVE
OR ALTER
THE GROUNDING
PRONG
IN ANY MANNER.
Use an

WARNING:
IF NOT PROPERLY
GROUNDED
THIS
POWER TOOL CAN INCUR THE POTENTIAL HAZARD
OF ELECTRICAL
SHOCK. PARTICULARLY
WHEN
USED IN DAMP LOCATIONS
IN PROXIMITY
TO
PLUMBING.
IF AN ELECTRICAL
SHOCK OCCURS
THERE IS THE POTENTIAL OF A SECONDARY HAZ-

It is recommended that you have a qualified electrician
replace the TWO prong outlet with a properJy grounded
THRE_E prong Outlet.

adapter
as shown
to known ground.

and

always

connect

the

groundir_g

lug

A temporary adapter as shown below is available for
connecting plugs to 2-prong receptacles. The green grounding lug extending from the adapter must be connected to a

permanent
groundsuchasto a property
grounded
outlet
box.
Atemporary
adapter
as illustrated is available for connecting
plugs to 2 -pro ng receptecles, The temporary adapter shou Id
be used only until a properly grounded outlet can be
installed bya qualified electrician,
GROUNDING

_'_

_,_-._
,_,_

MAKE SURE THIS IS
[-._-_-_-_--CONNECTED
TO A
L_

CHECK

Jt_'_-

2-PRONG
RECEPTACLE

_'-_J_

ADAPTER

NOTE: The adapter illustrated is for use only
have a properly
grounded 2-prong receptacle.

if you already

The use of any extension
cord will cause some loss of
power. To keep this to a minimum
and to prevent overheating and motor burn-out,
use the table below to deteri

assembly
UNPACKING
PARTS

, !l,i

Length

t00-

200

Ft.

200-

400

Ft.

MOTOR

Use

Place the motor on your workbench
or on
Standing clear of the motor shaft, plug the motor
properly
grounded
outlet.
Notice the rotation
of
As you look directly at the motor shaft it should be
the clockwise
direction
_
clockwise,
remove
the plug

CHECKING

!,,,,i

PARTS
1
1
1
1
1

F Large Toot Rest ..............................
G Tool Rest Holder .............................
H Tailstock
and Ram ............................
J Rear Foot ...................................

!
1
1
1

K Clamp Support ...............................
L Tube Or Bed .................................
M Small Tool Rest ..............................

1
1
1

N Manual

.....................................

Loose Parts Bag Part No. 507458
(Containing
the following
items):
1/4-20x

1-3/4

.................

................................
................................

4
1
2

Cup Center .................................
Cord Clamp
................................
Grip .......................................
Switch Key .................................
Lookwasher,
Ext, #10 ........................
Nut, Lock !/4-20
............................
Nut, Hex 1/4-20
............................

I
2
4
1
4
4
4

Nut, Sq. 1/4-20
Nut, Hex Heavy

3
1

.............................
3/4-16
.......................

the floor.
cord into a
the shaft,
turning
in

. If the motor shaft is turning
from the power outlet
and

continue
the assembly
procedures,
If the motor is turning
counterclockwise,
remove
the plug from the power outlet
and contact your Sears Store immediately.

procedure
AND

ROTATION

Phillips Screwdriver

Bolt, Carriage

cord,

Wire Size A.W.G.

TOOLS

TABLE

Spur Center
Point Center

Cord

Up to 100 Ft.

A Belt Guard Assembly
.........................
B Headstock
...................................
C Motor Pulley .................................
D V-Belt ......................................
E Motor
......................................

Extension

extension

have 3-prong grounding
which accept the tools

NowNGROUND

N_
_

wire size (A,W.G.}

only 3 wire extension
cords which
type plugs and 3-pole
receptacles
plug,

LUG

i
3-PRONG

mine the minimum

Screwdriver

......

•.....

NEEDED

3/8 inch Wrench
7/16 inch Wrench

(Medium)

Framing Square

Screw, Pan Hd. Ty T 10-32 x !/2 .............
Screw, Pan Hd. Ty AB #8 x 1/2 .................
Shoe, Lock ..................................
Stud, Nut ...................................
Washer, 17/64 x 47/64 x 1/16 ................
Wrench, Hex "L'" 3/16 ........................
Wrench, Hex "'L" 5/32 ........................
Handle .....................................

4
4
2
4
7
1
1
4

assembly
1. UnpaCk all the part_ of your wood lathe and lay them
0ut in your work area so they can be recognized easily.
Checkall partswith
the parts table and be careful not to
i
lose any parts during assembly.

6. Set large tool rest in tool rest holder
handle as shown.

and install

2_ Begin by placing thetUbe assembly on your workbench
as shown. Always keep the squa red key section straig ht
down.
TUBE ASSEMBLY

locking

REST

l
!
/

SQUARED
.

3. Slide

KEY SECTION

the headstock

the squared
tighten with

onto the tube

key section,
hex wrench.
SPINDLE

Insert

until
locking

PULLEY

it stops against
setscrew

HEADSTOCK

and

SPINDLE

Slide tailstock
assembly
onto the tube
tailstock
ram spindle
lock handle.
Notice
keyed

way i_ spindle
TAILSTOCK

with

RAM

studnut,

SPINDLE

STUDNUT

TUBE
HEADSTOCK-TUBE
LOCKING
SETSCREW tN REAR OF
HEADSTOCK

and install
location
of

HANDLE
LOCKNUT

KEYED

_ED KEY
SECTION

4. Slide the clamp support onto the middle
Assemble lock handle as shown.

HEADSTOCK

END

TAILSTOCK

of the tube.
8. On the
devices

backside
of the tailstock
as shown.

TAILSTOCK

ASSEMBLY

asse ruble the locking

LOCKNUT_

_._...

,.,....%%

,._

HANDLE

lllill t s.o2?0CK
V---STUONOT

t!!. IIYI f5. Attach
shown,

the

tool

rest

bolder

HEX BOLT _.__

to the

clamp

supporl

TOOL REST
HOLDER

sPACE"
HANDLE _%

-----J
ND

BRASS

SCREW

@"_'-LOCKING

NUT

9. Instal] the rear foot onto the tube as shown and tighten
rear foot to,cking screw, Foot wilt wedge into ptace as
screw is tightened.
This may take several attempts,

"_'_-2

LAT
WASHER @"a

HEADSTOCK

END

"--..

THREADED

HOLE

IN CLAMP

SUPPORT

I
_

I
CLAMP

SUPPORT

TUBE ASSEMBLY

REAR FOOT

MOUNTING
YOUR
A WORKBENCH

LATHE AND

MOTOR

6 1t8' ----+--, 3'_

ON
HOLES

FOR MOTOR

4f7/8 '"

SPECIAL NOTE: For best results when mounting your
lathe and motor to a workbench, lay them both on your
bench in the position which will best suit your needs. Be
sure the motor and lathe are in a parallel position andthen
mark the mounting hole positions. Or, use the diagram
shown.
1. Workbench for mounting Lathe must be at least 54-in.
long. Drill six 3/8" holes in your bench according to the
diagram, NOTE: Make sure the top of your bench is
positioned so that you don't drill into the legs or rail
underneath and you have access underneath to mount
the nuts for lathe and motor bolts.

14 5/8"
HOLES

FOR LATHE,
6 3/16"

When mounting to a Sears workbench, side overhang
of top at headstock end should be 5" from leg portion of
stand. (Front overhang of top should remain 1-1/8").

4 118" ---i

FRONT

BENCH

LOCATION

2. Position
Lathe on bench and insert two bo_ts through
holes in headstock
but do not screw on the nuts.

1 3/8"

,
E

OF MOUNTING

BED PARALLEL
FRONT EDGE

HOLES

TO
OF BENCH

3, Position the Lathe so that the bed is paralleltothe
front
of the bench. Check the foot, if the bottom
of the foot is
not fiat on the surface of the bench, loosen the screw in
the foot, tap the screw to loosen the Iocknut inside. Turn
the foot so it is flat on the bench and tighten the screw,

4, Mark the location on the bench of the hole in foot.
5, Remove the Lathe and drill a 3/8"
foot.

hole to attach the

6. Position the Lathe and insert the bolts from the top,
Place a flat washer, Iockwasher and a nut on the bolts
and tighten the nuts.
7. Position the motor over the mounting

holes.

8. Insert the bolts from the top. Place a flat washer and a
nut on the bolts but do not tighten the nuts at this time.

9, Removethe
wrench.

headstockpulleyusingtheS/32"setscrew

10, Find four pan head thread cutting screws 1/2" tong and
four Iockwashers
from among the loose parts. Attach
the bett guard with these screws and Iockwashers_
The
arrows
in this illustration
show the location
of the
screws.

FOOT

With the end of the la{he spindle: Tighten the pulley
screw against the flat:of theshaft
12, P|ace the motor pulley on the motor shaft so that the
small diameter is approximately 1/16
away from the
motor. Tighten the setscrew with a 5/32" setscrew
wrench securety against the flat spot on the motor
shaft.
t3. Place the belt on the pulleys and slide the motor toward
the rear of workbench until all the slack is removed from
the belt. NOTE: 1/2 inch deflection of belt under
moderate pressure applied between the two pulleys is
adequate tension. Tighten only two of the motor
mounting bolts.

14.

Place a straightedge
such as a piece of wood, metal or
framing
square across the pulleys to see if they are in
line with each other, tf they are, tighten
the other two
motor mounting
bolts. If they are not in line, loosen the
two motor bolts and move the motor sideways
.
tighten the boJts.

15. Find four pan head wood screws

t/2"

long from

a mong

the loose parts

16, Attach the belt guard plate to the bench with the two
screws. Make sure the plate is PARALLEL to the belt.

17. Plug motor cord into outlet o n back of switch box. DO
NOT pJ4ugmotor cord into power source outlet
18. Position the twocordsasshown
andclamp themtothe
table with two cable clamps and 1/2" wood screws
from the loose parts bag.
t9. Coil up the stack in the cord and tie it with a piece of tape
if necessary.

CABLE

MOTOR

CORD

CLAMPS

SPUR AND CUP/CENTER

1NSTALLATIOt_

1, Find a 3/4-16 hex nut among the loose parts and scr(_w
onto head stock spindle until finger tight,

i!.

3/4 16
HEX NUT

J
2. Find two points and a spur ahd cup ct.m_er amo_g the
loose parts. To insert poir_t ir_to cer_ters, _)Jace cente_
between jaws of a vise. Do not ti£hte[_vice
h_seq p[_i_
into
center
and with
a hammer
and r_ai_ ger_tly tap
around the base of the poh_t until secure
f

\
3, Insert
center

spur
into

center
into
head stock
tai;stock
ram. NOTE:

spir_dle
Do not

and cup
drive or

CENTER
TAILSTOCK
RAM

hammer centers into spindte or ram as removal may be
difficult,
Use a soft hammer or block of wood and give
them a gentle tap,
4. To remove
pulley
with
pliers, turn
is ejected.

spur center from spindle,
hen the spindle
one hand, and, using a wrench or pair of
the hex nut counterclockwise
until center

& To remove cup center insert a 1/4" wood dowe_ or brass
rod through
the hole in the tailstock
ram. Ho{d the
center with one hand and tap the dowet or rod with a
hammer.

FOOT

assemblly

WARNING:OONT CONNECTPOWERCOROTO

ON-OFF

SWITCH

The On-Off Switch has a locking
feature. THIS FEATURE
IS INTENDED
TO PREVENT
UNAUTHORIZED
AND
POSSIBLE
OTHERS.

=HAZARDOUS

1, Insert

USE

CHILDREN

AND

key into switch.

NOTE:

Key is made of yellow

_lastic.

_1;
KEY

KEY
(YELtOW

_AST It1

2. To turn Lathe ON,..
INSERT finger under switch lever
and pull END of switch out.

3.: To turn

Lathe OFF...

PUSH

Never leave the Lathe
complete

stop

ant

lever in,

unattended

you

have

until

removed

it has come to a
the

switch

key.

Do net cycle the motor switch
on and off rapidly,
as
this may cause the faceplate
or sanding disc to loosen.
In the event this should ever occur, stand clear of the
face plate or sanding d_sc until it has come to a complete
stop,

,. retignten

it.

4. To lock switch
in OFF
with one hand, REMOVE

position . . . HOLD switch
key with other hand.

WARNING:
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY,
ALWAYS
LOCK THE SWITCH
"OFF".
WHEN
LATHE IS NOT IN USE ... REMOVE KEY AND
KEEP IT IN A SAFE PLACE .
ALSO.
IN
THE EVENT OF A POWER FAI'LURE (ALL'OF

_OLD

I
I

YOUR LIGHTS GO OUT) TURN SWITCH OFF,,.
LOCK IT AND REMOVE THE KEY. THiS WILL
PREVENT THE LATHE FROM STARTING
UP
AGAIN WHEN THE POWER COMES BACK ON.

PULL

\
\

ROTATION
CHECK

SPINDLE

ROTATION

The Lathe spindle
must rotate
viewed from the spindle end,
NOTE:
spindle.

Make

sure

the

spur

1. Plug the Lathe power
outlet (See page 5)

TERMINAL
coVER

counterclockwise

center

,cord into

when

is removed

from

a properly

the

grounded

2. Stand clear of the Lathe spindle and tur n the switch ON.
Notice the rotation
of the spindle.
If it is NOT turning
COUNTERCLOCKWISE
contact
your Sears Store immediately
before using this tool,

getting
BACK

to know

your

lathe

b'VO Od

OF TOOL

11 spu.
CENTER
3

2
BELT

INDEX PIN

SPINDLE
LOCK
HOLE

1 0
8

CUP

TAILSTOCK

CENTER

HANDWHEEL

TAILSTOCKRAM /

RAM

TOOL REST

GUARD

TOOL REST
BASE

_"_

TOOL REST
BASE LO¢
SPINDLE
FOOT
)TAILSTOCK
LOCK

12 TA,LSTOCK

!3
SPEED

TOOL
LOCK

\
BED

REST

TOOL REST
BRACKET
LOCK

SWITCH
1 0

1 BELT GUARD
LOCK

BELT GUARD LOCK...
guard

during

ON-OFF

FRONT OF TOOL

HEADSTOCK

Locks the

5. TOOL REST LOCK..,

hinged part of the

Engages with the spindle
pufley
to
determine
equal spacing for cuts for fluting or reeding,
or for dividing
face plate work.
DO NOT USE FOR
REMOVING
FACEPLATES,

base to the bed.

7. HANDWHEEL • . . Adjusts the tailstock ram.
8. TAILSTOCK RAM LOCK,.. Clamps the ram

3. SPINDLE

LOCK HOLE.., For removing
faceplates or
sanding discs, insert a setscrew wrench,
large na_I or
bolt in the hole to hold the spindle while unscrewing
faeep_ate or sanding disc,
REST BRACKET
rest bracket to the bed,

tOOl

6. TOOL REST BASE LOCK... Clamps the tool rest

2. INDEX PIN.,.

4. TOOL

Clamp the too_ rest to the

rest base.

operation.

LOCK._.

Clamps

the

taiistock,

9, TAILSTOCK

LOCK.,-CIamPs

the

tailstock

the

bed,

10. 0N-0FF SWITCH

tool

°_--=1!--=

......... i

:gethng

to know your wood

mafhe

1|. SPUR CENTER AND CUP CENTER_.. are usea for
sPi ndle turn ing and should

ALIGNING

a iway s be in alignment.

CENTERS

If the centers are not
ing adjustments.

in line as shown,

1. Make sure the tailstock
checking for alignment.
2. Loosen the screw
loosen the tocknut

and

ram

in the foot.
inside.

make the follow

are locked

_ TAP

when

the screw

3/16" SETSCREW
WRENCH

FOOT
3, Using a 3116" setscrew wrench,
loosen the setscrew
on the back of the headstock.
The screw is located
about 1-3/4 "° from the bottom.

HEADSTOCK

3116"
4. Swing
the tailstock
so that the two points
are Jn
line.
,. tighten the setscrew in the headstock and the
screw in the end Df the tailstook.

SETSCREW

1
TAI LSTOCK

_ANDWH_

12. TAILSTOCK

_ .supports

the

workpiece

for

spindle

turning.

The tailstock
contains
a brass screw which bears against
the "key"
on the underside of the bed. This screw Dre_
vents excessive "looseness"
(rocking
back and forth} of
the tailstock.
t,

Loosen

the locknut

using a 7/t6"

2. Tighten
the screw moderately
loosen it about 114 turn.

wrench.
against

the

key,

then

Slide the tai}stock
atong the bed. If it does not stick or
bind in any one spot, tighten the nut. I f it binds or sticks.
loosen the screw only enough
smoothly
along,the bed.

so that

the tailstock

BRASS
SCREW

slides

',
LOCKNUT

KEY

13. SPEED CHART ,

. . indicates
general
sizes of workpieces.

speeds for various

recommended

SPINDLE
MOTOR

WARNING:
Always use lowest speed when starting a
new workpiece, using faeeplate, or turning between
centers to avoid possible injury.

basic

SPEED
SP|NDLE

'ti

-- {:.....

lathe operations

WARNING:
For your own safety, turn switch "OFF"
and remove plug from power source outlet before
making any adjustments.

CHANGI NG SPEEDS
The

belt

is shown

positioned

the outside
end of the
run 2250 R.P.M.

on the second

pulleys,

This causes the lathe

Suppose you wish to run the lathe slower
R.P,M,
You must shift the belt inward.

1. Make sure the power

cord

raised,

With

the

belt

guard

COUNTERCLOCKWISE

belt

until

motor

rotate

with

pushing on the belt with
3. Continue

is removed

your

the

it "climbs"

right

pulley

down

the

the outlet,

motor

left

pulley

hand

while

hand,

while

into

_ say, 1350

from

your

ROTATE
COUNTERCLOCKWISE

steps from

pushing

the third

ON
BELT

on the

step of the

pulley.

4. Now rotate

the spindle

pulley

C LOC KWtS E with

your

right hand while pushing on the belt with your left
hand. The belt will climb up into the third step of the
spindle

pulley,

To make the lathe go faster,
ward.
1, Rotate
right
until

the

with yourleft
hand.

the motor

outSPINDLE

pulley

CLOCKWISE

hand, Pull on the belt while
it climbs
down
into the

2, Nowrotate
right

spindle

the belt must be shifted

pulley

with

PULLEY

your

rotating
the pulley
next
smaller
step.

COUNTERCLOCKWISE

hand while

pulling

on the belt with

your

The beit will

climb

up into

larger

the next

step.

MOTOR
PULLEY

..... J

basic lathe

operations

If you have never done any amount of wood turn ng, we
suggest that you practice using the various wood turning
tools. Start with=a small spindle turning.
Be sure to study the "HOWTO"
section of this manual, It
explains and illustrates thecorreet use ofthe turnings tools,
the positioning of the tool rest and other information to help
you gain experience.
1, Carefully inspect and select a piece of wood 2" x 2" x
12" and always use wood free of checks, splits, cracks
or knots.
2, Draw diagonal lines on each end to locate the centers
3. On oneend, makeasaw cut approximately 1/16" deep
on each diagonal line. This is for the spur center.

DIAGONAL LINES
ON BOTH ENDS

4 The other endis for the cup center. Place the point of
the cut center on the wood where the diagonal lines
cross,

5. Drive the cup center
into the wood. Use a wooden
mallet or a plastic hammer, if you don't h ave one, use a
steel ha mmero but put a piece of wood on the end of the
cup center to protect

it.

6. Remove the cup center and drive the spur center into
the other end of the wood. Make sure the spurs are in
the saw cuts, Remove the spur center.
7. Make sure t he centers and the hole in the spindle
and
the tailstock
ram are clean, insert the spur center rote
the headstock
and the cup center into the tailstock
and
tap them in lightly with a piece of wood, Do not drive
them in.
8. Put a drop of oil or wax on the wood
the cup center.
turning,
9. Place the
tailstock:

wood

This witl lubricate
between

the

where

the wood
centers

and

it contacts
while
iock

it is
the

WARNING:
Be sure the spur center and cup center
are firmlyseated against the workpiece and thatthe
tailstock is securely locked in place.
i0, M0vethe cup center intothe wood byturnmg the hand
wheel. Make sure that the cup center and spur center
are "seated" into the wood in the holes made in steps 5
and 6 above. Rotate the wood by hand while turning the
hand wheel.

t 1. Adjust the tool rest approxirnately 1/8" away fro m the
corners of the wood and 1/8" below the center line.
Note the angled position of the toot rest base.
WARNING: For your own safety, after adjusting the
tool rest be sure and lock the toot rest base and the
tool rest.

TOOL REST

Lookatthespeed
chart.Notice
thata2"square
turning
upto18"longshould
runat875R.P.M.
for"roughing".
MovetheV-beltonthepulleys
totheslowest
speed
as
outlinedunder"'Changing Speeds" section,
WARNING:
For your own safety rotate the wood by
hand to make sure that the corners do not strike the
tool rest or anything else before turning the Lathe
"'ON", Always be sure the workpiece is properly
mounted and the Lathe is set at the proper speed
(RPM).

INDEXING
The spindle pulley

contains

36 equalty

spaced ho_es. The

index pin engages with these holes to keep the spindle
from turning
while you put a mark on the workpiece.
For example:
wheel:

To focate

the position

of six spokes in a

1. Pult the index pin outward and turn it so that the small
cross pin slips into the slot, This will allow the index
pin to engage in one of the holes
vent the spindle from turning_

in the pulley

2, Adjust
the tool rest approximately
and make a mark.

and pre-

at the centeriine

3. Pull out the index pin and slowly rotate the workpiece
until the pin slides into the next hole in the pulley.
4. Do th is six times and put the next mark on the workpiece, The two marks will be spaced 60 ° apart, Continue this operation
until six spokes are marked 60 °
apart.
5, Spindle

turnings

can be divided

in the same manner,

• cratts an
INGCH|SELs

PARTING

wood-Uathe
AND

TOOL

SPEAR

P0tNT

USED
When
iBe_

ch+s+iS

ha_e

bandies

pt-oVide plenty Ofgripand
for Clean+ eas+y work
keen edges
THEORYOF

approximately

l O-in.

t+ongo

HOW TO USE THEN

CHISEL

ROUND NOSE

FLAT NOSE
TYPES

You Can Cut,

and When

You Must

Scrape

There are two different
approaches
to the work when
turning,
One approach
is toward a circumference
of the
workpiece (fore×ample,
turning down the outer surface of a
cylinder
or the inner wall of a hollow round box.) in this
approach,
the surface being turned travels under the chise_
edge tike an endless belt. The second approach
is toward
the diameter
of a workpiece (as when turning the face of a
faceplate
turning,
or the side of a large shoulder
on a
spindle turning),
In this approach
the surface being turned
rotates
like a disc under the chisel edge, Sometimes
the
approach
will be a combmat+on of both,

leverage, sharp tools a re ess ent ia |
buy tools that will take and hold

TURNING

¢
t
!

CUTTING

CHISEL

SCRAPING

CHISEL

_---_,vCI

The Two Classes of Chisels

"-....J/ _

Theseare: 1} Chisels intended primarily for cutting, a nd 2)
chisels used only for scraping: The cutting chisels are the
gouge, :skew and parting tool. These are the most used.
They are com monly sharpened to a razor edge by honing on
both sicles_ The scraping chisels are the flatnose, round
nose and spear point. These are not honed on the flat sides
-- the wire edges produced by grinding are left on to aid i n
the scraping process.

RCUM FER ENCE
APPROACH_

DIAMETER

.... 1t

APPROACH
Either a cutting or scraping
action can be used when the
approach
=s toward
a circumference
-.- the shaving
is
removed tike a _eeling from a potato_ Scraping, only, can be
used when the approach
is toward a diameter,
The reason
is obvious when you consider
that faceplate
turning
practi +
cally always
req u_res removal of wood across the grain.
Wood does not peel easily across the grain, and attempts to
use cutting methods will likely result in damage to the work
and throwing of the chisei by the work.

To cut, the chisel is held so that the sharp edge actually d_gs
into the revolving work to peel off shavings. To scrape. _he
chisel is held at a right angle to the work surface, and
removes fine particles instead of shavings. Ma ny operations
require that the cutting chisels be used for scraping; bu_
scraping chisels are practically never used for cutting:.
Scraping dulls a chisel much faster, especially the razor
sharp cutting chisels. Cutting is faster than scraping and
produces a smoother finish which requires less sanding.
However. it is far more difficult to master. Scraping, on the
other hand. is far more precise a nd easier to control.

it follows that a cutting
action is used for the genera_ run of
spindle turning operations
, + . while the major part of a
facep_ate turning is done by the scraping
method, When a
combination
approach
is to be used+ you will have to judge,
by me feel of the work. when to stop cutting
and start
scraping
Never try to cut when it becomes difficult
to hold
the chisel against the roughness
of the wood grain.
How

to Position

Tool Rest for Circumference

Cutting

When cutting, the object ia to pierce the outer skin of wood
to a ceGa_n desired depth, then to hold the chisel steady,
with the bevel edge paral;et to the work circumference,
so
that it will peel off a shaving at this desired depth. The on+y
sure method of holding the chisel steady is to rest the bevel
against the work. as shown in sketch 1. When the toot rest
is at the proper height (sketch t ), the chisel ca n be held with
the bevel pressed against the work,
as a fulcrum
to support the chisel
force of the revolving
work,

___SCR_P_

"16

and the tool rest will act
against the downward

STEADY
THRUST

AGAINST

(_ 0/F5 RCE
_,'_

,_j,

_Bev_
et

HAedDS

No support

4
KICKBACK

CHATTER
G /_
bevel'
•
/ /
pofnt
t
OO
'digging
in.

ain

Rest too
high-

_,0_

for

_!_Rest

Jor.._

mmw_m

chisel

///

too
high

Chise!
cutting

Rest too low;
chisel too horizontal.

properly.

HANDLE

KICKED U_

Rest too distant - chisel too high,
point too far from rest.
If the rest is placed too low, so that the
bevel out from the work (sketch
2},
continue
to dig deeper into the work.
"'bite"
becomes
so deep that your
holding the chisel -will begin to bounce,

chise! is held with the
the cutting edge will
It will dig in until the
hands have difficulty

then the improperly
or chatter,
against

does the scraping, sketches 9 and 10 show the results of too
!ow or too high a position
for the rest; and sketch 8 shows
the chisel action with the rest correctly
positioned.
How

supported
chisel
the workplace.

too high (sketch
4) and the chisel is
for cutting,
it strikes
the workpiece
the direction
of force exerted by the
horizontal
-- and kickback will again

;.........
!,
.L

to Position

Toot Rest

for

CircumferenCe

CORRECT

REMOVE

USING

.__

THE

GOUGE

"}"hroe gouges, the t/4.
I/2for general
homeshop turning;
2-in can be purchased

_nd 3/4-in
but ether

The

is for

chief

use of the

gouge

sizes, are ampie
srzes from I iS- to

rough

circumference

cutting of raw stock down to a cylinder of working
size it ts
the best too_ ,_ouse for r_pid cutting away of _arge a_eas of
the workpiece;
but when
so used does not produce
a
smooth
surface
With practice,
it can be used for cutting
coves and the shaping
of _ong cuts ---is also usefui fo_
scraping.

\
D

pass squarely
under the chisel edge. This, then, is the
position
in which it is easiest to hold the chise_ steady. To
obtain this position, place the res_ appr'oximate}y
I/8. inch
{thickness
o{ chise!) below centel.

STOCK

.......1 1

edge at an angle and tends to carry the chisel
JR orle
direction
or the other along the rest. Orfly when the chisel
contacts the work or_ the centerfine
does the work surface

DIGGING /

......

///

Throe different
chisel contact po*nts are shown in sketch
! 2. it will be noted that, when chise! is above the workpiece
center, or be_ow it, the work surface sweeps past the ch iset

Scraping

REST"t ..........

posit{on is not as critica!
chisel generally
is held
at an _ngfe to reach into
wife edge of the ehisef

9 /

i...........

.....
Ti '"i
....
"' i
'x,\

be repositioned.

In scraping
operations,
the too_ rest
as it is for cutting operation, s. The
horizontally,
though
it can be he_d_
tight places. Considering
that the

..................................

With large diameter
work (sketch
6), the tool rest can be
above the workpiece
centertine,
and somewhat
out from
the work surface. With small d_ameter
work (sketch 7), the
rest should be lowered almost to the centeHine,
and shoutd
not be far from the work surface.
As work grows smafler,

How

Scraping

If the rest is placed too far out from the work surface (sketch
5}-- then, when correctly
heid, the chisel is again too high
on the work. Also, you have less leverage on your side of the
tool rest -- and it is even more difficult
to hold the chisel

the rest should

Chisel and Rest for Diameter

When scraping
on the diameter,
that port,on of surface to
the right of center is moving upward (sketch 1 t ) If chisel is
placed in this area, it will simply be carried
up off the rest
and out of your hands
All diameter
approach
operations
must be done at the taft of center

If the rest is placed too tow, the chisel
must be held
extremely
high to position
the
bevel against
the work
(sketch 3). Then the rest loses most of its value as a fulcrum,
and the downward
force of the revolving workplace tends to
kick the chisel back out of your hands.
If the rest is placed
correctly
positioned
near the top where
workpiece
is nearly
result.

to Position

howto use your craftsman wood-lathe
--....

CUTTING

EDGE

ANCEO

WRONG

CUTTING

SCRAPING

The tool is simply fed into the work at an angle (for cutting),
or pointed at the workpiece center (for scraping). It can be
held easil_ in one hand.

When used for cutting, the gouge is always held with the
convex side down° It should be rolled approximately 30 ° to
45 ° in the direction in which it is being advanced along the
rest; and the cutting edge should be a little in advance of the
handle.

USING THE SCRAPDNG CHISELS
A 1/2-in.
wide spear point chisel, a !f2-in.
wide round
nose chisel, and a 1 -in. wide flatnose chisel complete the
list of tools ordinarily
used by home craftsmen.
Each of

USING THE SKEW
Two skews, the I/2- and 1-in. sizes, are all that are needed
for general use. Other sizes are available, This tool isnearly
always used to make finish cuts. to cut vees and beads, and
to square shoulders. Properly used, it produces the best
finish that can be obtained with a chisel, It should be used
but little for scraping, as this quickly dulls it.

these scraping chisels can be purchased
in various other
sizes for special purposes. All are very useful for diameter
scraping operations and for circumference
scraping, when
cutting methods cannot be employed.

Path

of cut.
PULL

SWING

BACK

TOOL

NO _..__

I_I.._I

_....., Y ES
II

SPEAR
POINT

&;o,,
cut.

USING

HEEL

SHAPER

OR MOULDING

KNIVES

An old chisel ca n be made to serve as a holder for shaper

/ _"

moulding knives. Such knives make it possible
to scrape
many interesting
shapes in the workpiece
surface in one o_
two operations,
instead of the many operations
required
with standard chisels_ It is generally not practical to use
cutting methods with special shapetools; scraping methods

For-finish cutting, the skew is held with the cutting edge
considerably in advance of the handle, bevel side down.
Keep the base of the bevel against the work. Good practice
iSto place the skewwe|t over the work, pull it back until the
edge begins to cut, then swing the handle into position to
advance the cut. Both the toe and the heel of the skew can
be used for taking light cuts; but do not penetrate the wood
too deeply without cutting clearances, as there is danger of
burning the tip of the tool.
USING THE PARTING

FLAT
NOSE

The spear point is used for fine scraping and delicate
operations, such as the forming of beads, parellel grooves
and shallow vees. Edges and bowl contours can be rounded
with the round nose chisel. Any flat surface can be scraped
with the flatnoSe chisel.

not

USING TOE

ROUND
NOSE

should be used.

TOOL

f°

The parting tool has just one primary purpose: to cuz
stra Jght into the workpiece a sdeep as desired, or all the way
through to make a cut-off. It is therefore a very narrow tool
-- 1/8-ir_, wide-- and is shaped to cut its own clearance so
that the edge wil! not be burned. When used for scraping,
however, it should be backed off regularly to prevent
overheating.

The holder should provide a shoulder against which the butt
end of the knife can be firmlyseated;
and the knife must be
securely mounted,
either by means of a screw threaded into
the holder, or by compressing it between
two prongs bolted

Unlike the gouge and skew, the parting tool is seldom held
with the bevel against the work. As the amount of stock
removed is small, a support for the bevel is not necessary.

together.

obtained by the tool-rest hand position illustrated. The wrist
is dropped down sothat the heel of the hand below the tittle
finger acts as a sliding guide against the rest. The handle
hand controls chisel position.
FINISH

Clear, glass-smooth finishes(especially
on soft-woods) can
be obtained by using a block plane set to take a fine shaving,
The tool rest should be raised up approximately
to the top of
the workpiece
-- and the plane should be horizontal,
but
turned stightly in the direction
of travel so that it will take a
shearing
cut, Two tool rests, one in front and the other
behind
the work, can be used to advantage
in positioning
the plane so as to exactly
size of the workpiece),

l imitt

he depth

CUTTING

Finish cutting requires
more control
with less force -- and
is better done with the palm of the tool-rest
hand turned up,
The wrist is still held down, and the side of the index finger
acts as a gu ide along the rest. In this position,
controt of the
chisel is shared by both hands, the fingers of the tool-rest
hand being free to assist in positioning
the tool.

of cut (and fin ished

USING WOOD RASPS AND FILES
A wood rasp will remove stock quickly when hetd against
the revolving workpiece. Care should be taken to support
the rasp firmly against the tool rest, however, as it can tear
the hands painfully if caught by a rough edge of the
workpiece and kicked back. The rasp will leave a very rough
finish.

IN TRICA TE CUTTING

Intricate,
delicate cutting requires
extreme
control,
with
practically
no force. This is best accomplished
by guiding
the chisel with the fingers of the tool-rest
hand. The hand is
held palm up, with the wrist high -- with the little finger
placed against the rest to steady the hand, The chisel does
not touch
the rest; and the handle
hand is completely

Finer finishes(similar
to those produced by scraping) can be
obtained by using files in the same manner. Various shape
files can be used for shaping vees, beads, coves, etc. If
pressed into the wood too hard, however, a file can burn the
workpiece surface. Keep the file clean to keep it cutting
uniformly. Files work best on hardwoods.

secondary

to the tool-rest

hand.

The first and second positions
are equally good for scraping
operations;
but the third position
is practically
never used
for scraping,

HAND POSITIONS
WARNING:
Keep firm hold and control of the turning
tool at all times. Avoid awkward hand positions where a
sudden stip could cause a hand to move into the
workpiece.
In handling all of the chisels the handle hand takes a natural
position, being nearer or farther from the end depending
upon the amount of leverage required. The position of the
toot rest hand is a'matter of individual liking; but there are
three genera!ly accepted positions, each best for certain
types of operations.
ROUGHING OFF

CUTTING
TO DEPTH

Many scraping
operations
and cutting
to depth with
the
parting
toot can be done with one hand
The chiset
is
grasped firmly, with the index finger on top to press it dowr_
I
Roughing-offand
solid positioning

other
of the

against
Holding
pattern,

heavywork
requires
a firm grip and
chisel against the rest. This is best

the rest -- and is thrust straight
into the work
the toot thus leaves the other hand free to hold a
calipers, etc.. to check work progress

gouge,

A SIZING CUT

MAKING

Start the first cut about 2-in,

from tailstock

end -- then run

be ready for finishing.
Diameters
for sizing cuts should be
planned to be about 1/8-in.
greater than the desired finish
diameters.

run it also, toward
tailstock,
to merge with first cut.
Continue in this manner until 2- to4-in, from the headstock

A sizing cut is made with the parting tool. Hold the tool in
one hand, and use the other hand to hold an outside caliper

end, then reverse the direction of tool travela nd work one or
two cuts in succession toward the headstock, and off this

preset to the desired sizing-cut
diameter.
As the cut nears
completion,
lower the chisel point more and more into a
scraping position. When the calipers slip over the workpiece
at the cut, the cut is finished.

end of the workpjece.
Never start a cut directly at the end
--if the chisei Catchesthe end, itwill damage the workpiece.
Never take tong cuts while corners remain on the work, as
this tends to tear long slivers from the corners.
series of cuts should

not be too deep

it iS better

SMOOTHING

The fina!

partially reduce the work to a cylinder a(I along its length;
then start a second series of cuts to complete reducing it to

CUTTING

ride

I/8-in.

can be removed

in two

ways.

Either

both

use

ends and

A SHOULDER

A shoulder
can be the side of a square
portion
left in the
workpiece,
the side of a turned section,
or tr}e end of the
workpiece.
Most shoulders
are perpendicular
to work axis;
but a shoulder
can be at any angle desired.

the work. At this stage, tong cuts, from the center off either
end, can also be taken, Roughing-off
generally
_scontinued
until the cylinder is approximately
1/8-in
larger than the
desired finish size. Roundness
can be tested by laying the
not

A CYLINDER

the I *in. skew, working
from center toward
taking lighter and lighter cuts until finished.

a cylinder. Once cylinder
has been formed, step lathe up to
the next faster speed. Further reductions
in size ca n now be
carried out by cutting as deeply as desired at any spot along

gouge on top of the work -- it will
when cylinder is perfectly round_

CUTS

Sizing c_Jts are useful to establish approximate
finish-size
diameters
at various points along a workpiece.
The work
can then be turned down to the diameters
indicated
-- and

it toward the taitstock
and off the end of the workpiece,
Next, start another
cut 2-in. nearer the headstock
-- and

The first

SIZING

up and down

_TOOL

PARTING

FtRST CUTS

PARK

\
SKEW

First,mark

When the heel is used, the skew is rotated down into the
work, using the rest as a pivot. Otherwise, cutting position
and sequence of cuts is the same. As when using the toe, it
is important that cutting be done only by extreme end of
cutting edge_

position of the shoulder with a pencil held tothe
revolving workpiece. Then make a sizing cut with the
parting toolo placing this cut about 1/16-in. outside the
shoulder position, and cutting to within about 1/8-in. of the
depth desired for the area outside of the shoulder. If
shoulder is shallow, the toe of the skew ca n be used to make
the sizing cut; but do not go _ndeeper than 1/84n. with the
skew unless wider and wider vees are cut to provide
clearance for this tool.

If deep vees are planned, it is quicker to start them by
making a sizing cut at the center of each vee, Vees ca n also
be scraped with the spear point chisel or a three-sided file.
CUTTING

WRONG

This requires considerable
practice.
First, make pencil lines
to locate the tops (highest
points) of two or more adjoining
beads. Then make a vee groove at the exact center between
two lines-and down to the desired depth of the separation
between
the beads, 8e carefuf not to make the groove too
wide or you will remove portions of the desired beads, The
sides of the two adjoining
beads are now cut with the heel
of the skew -- preferably
1/2-in.
size, unless
beads are
quite large. Place skew at right angles with the work axis,
flat against surface
and well up near the top, The extreme
heel should be just inside the pencil line that marks the top
of the bead. Now draw skew straight
back while
raising
handle slowly
-- until edge of the heel at the pencil
tine
starts to cut. As edge begins to cut, roll skew in the direction
of the vee -- so that the exact portion
of the edge which
started cutting will travel in a 90 ° arc down to bottom of the
vee. Upon reaching
bottom of the vee, the skew should be
on edge. Reverse the movements
to cut side of the adjacent
bead.

RIGHT

BEVEL
Use the gouge to remove any waste stock outside of
shoulder -- and smooth this section, up to within t/8-in, of
the shoulder, in usual manner. Finishing of the shoulder,
unless it is more than lqn. high, is best done with the
1/2-in. skew. First, toe of skew is used to remove thin
shavings from the side of the shoulder -- down to finish
size, Hold skew so that bottom edge of bevel next to
shoulder will be very nearly parallel to side of shoulder
--but with cutting edge turned away at the top so that only
the extreme toe will do the cutting. If cutting edge is flat
against shoulder, the chisel will run. Start with handle low,
and raise handle to advance toe into the work. Cut down to
finished diameter of outside area; then cfean out the corner
byadvancing heel of the skew into it along the surface of the
outside area. Tilt the cutting edge, with handle raised up, so
that only the extreme heel does this cutting.

SECOND
POSITION

START

FINISH

BEVEL
TANGENT
TO WORK

It is important
that only the extreme
heel should do the
cutting. This means that the bottom edge of the bevel next
to the vee must at all times be tangent to the arc of the bead
being formed.
Easier beads can be shaped with the spear point chisel. Use
pencil marks and sizing cuts as before. Push the chisel
straight into each cut and rotate it horizontally
to round off
the adjacent
edges,
tt must be moved
slightly
in the
direction
of rotation at the same time, to keep the point from

if shoulder is at end of work, the process is ca_led squaring
the end. In this case, reduce outer portion to a diameter
about 1/4-in. larger than too! center diameter, then inter
saw off the waste stock,
CUTTING

BEADS

VEES

digging

Vee grooves can be cut with either the toe or heel of the
skew. When the toe is used, the cutting action is exactly the
same as in trimming
a shoulder
-- except that the skew is
tilted to cut at the required
bevel. Light cuts she uid be taken
on first one side then the other, gradually
enlarging
the vee
to the required
depth and width.

CUTTING

into the

adjacent

COVES

bead.

(CONCAVES)

This is the most difficult
single cut to master ---- but or_e of
the most important
in good wood turning.
First, use pencil
marks to indicate the edges. Then, rough it out -.- to withis
about 1/8-in.
of the desired finish surface --- by scrapir_g
with the gouge or round nose
wide, sizing cuts can be made
it is roughed out, the cove can
from each side to the bottom

chisel. _f the cove is to be very
to plot the roughing
out. Once
be finished
in two cuts----.- one
center.

At the start of either cut, gouge is held with handie high and
the two sides
of blade
held between
the thumb
and
forefinger
of tool-rest hand, just behind the bevel_ Positio#
the fingers ready to roli the blade into cove. Hoid blade so
that bevel is at a 90 ° angle to the work axis, with point
touching
the pencil line and pointed into work axis.

wood-lathe

SWING
TOOL
CUTTING
BEADS

CUTTING

COVES

..........

From this start, depress point slightly to start cut, then
continue to move point down in an arc toward the bottom
center of cove - at the same time rolling chisel uniformly so
that, at the end of the cut, it will be flat at bottom of the cove.
The object is to keep the extreme point of gouge doing the
cutting from start to finish. Reverse movements to cut the
opposite side,
CHISEL INCLINED
IN DIRECTION
OF CUT

Coves also can be scraped to finish, using the round nose
chisel or a rattail file - but these methods do not generally
produce perfectly curved COves,
MAKING

LONG CONVEX

well back of point -- swinging handle in the direction of tool
travel to overtake the point, if necessary, when the steep
part of the curve is reached. Object is to keep extreme point
during the cutting throughout -- with bevel as tangent to
curve as possible.

CUTS

First turn work down to approximate size, using sizing cuts
(as required) to determine various diameters. Finish cut can
then be made with either skew or gouge.

MAKING

If the skew is Used, the principles of the operation are the
same as those employed in cutting a bead -- except that
curve is longer and may be irregu ar. Use the extreme heel
throughout -_ start at onger end of curve (if curve is
irregular) and progress toward steeper end. If gouge is
used. make cut in the same direction. Start with the handle

LONG TAPER CUTS

Long taper cuts are made like long convex cuts, with the
skew or gouge. However, the angle between the cutting
edge and handle is kept constant during the entire cut. The
handle is not swung around. Always cut downhill. Do not
cut too deeply at the center of the taper.

SPINDLE

HOW TO HANDLE
PLOTTING THE SHAPE

an ordinary ruler - or by using a template. Make the pencil
marks about 1/2-in_ long - they will then be visible when
the work is revolved under power, and can be quickly traced
around the spindle by touching each line with the pencil

Once the basic cuts have been mastered, you are ready to
turn out finished work,The first step is to prepare a plan for
the proposed turning. This can be laid out on a suitable
sheet of paper- and should be to full size, Next, preparethe
turning stock by squaring it up to the size of the largest
square or round section in you r plan. The stock can be cut to
the exact length of the proposed turning; but, in most cases,
it is best to leave the stock a little long st one or both ends to
allow for trimming.

After marking, use the parting tool to make sizing cuts at all
of the important shoulders. When learning, you will find it
best to make many sizing cuts to accurately plot the various
diameters; but experienced workers can do with a few such
cuts at the important shoulders. Plan each sizing cut so that
it is in waste stock; and make each deep enough so that
there will be just enough wood left under the cut for the
finishing process. Once the sizing cuts have been run in,
rough-cut the excess wood with a gouge -- then proceed
with the finishing process by making the various types of
cuts required.

DIAMETERS

i:'

DUPLICATE
_4%"_

TURNINGS

Identical turnings require great accuracy when plotting the
work and doing the various cuts. Many methods have been
devised to aid in perfecting the work.
Use of Patterns

SIZING

Professional workers generally use a pattern, or layout
board. This is a thin piece of wood or cardboard on which is
drawn a full-size half section of the turning. The contour of
the finished surface is drawn first; then the diameters at
various critical points are drawn to scale as vertical lines
intersecting the contour tine. By placing the pattern against

CUTS

Mountthe stock in the lathe, and rough it off to a maximumsize cylinder. Now project your plan onto the turning by
marking the various critical dimensions along the length of
the spindle in penci!. These dimensions can be laid out with
22

the various sizing cuts to be made. Each arm is of such a
length that it will drop all of the way down past the back
side of the workpiece when the wood under it has been cut
out to the desired depth of the sizing cut.

the roughed-off
cylinder, you can quickly
mark the various
points of the critical diameters.
To make each sizing cut, use
outside
calipers
and set these by actually
measuring
the
length of the vertical
line on the pattern
which represents
the diameter
desired. Then make the sizing cut, down to the
proper diameter
by using the calipers
to determine
when
the cut is finished.
After making the sizing cuts, hang the
pattern
behind the lathe where it will serve as a guide for
completion
of the workpiece.

USING

COPY

CRAFTER

- 24907

Using a Template and a Diameter Board
To make identical
spindles
for chairs,
table tegs, or to
exactly
copy an existing turning the Copy Crafter -24907 is
used,
Follow the outline of original turning or template
and
the cutting tool duplicates
the workpiece.
Spindle
turnings
up to 2-1/2
inches
in diameter,
36 inches
long can be
duplicated
from original turnings; up to 6 inches in diameter;
36 inches long from a template.
Shallow faceplate
turnings
up to 8 inches in diameter
can be duplicated
fi:om templates.

When many identical turnings are to be produced, it is a
convenience to have a prepared template. This can be made
of thin wood or cardboard -- and is cut on a band saw or
scroll saw to have the exact contour of the finished turning.
The number one finished turning can also be used as a
template. Attach the template to a board; then mount the
board behind the lathe, on hinges, so that the template can
be moved down to touch the workplace and allow you to
closely observe progress of your work.

USING A
TEMPLATE

USING A
DIAMETER BOARD
tf a great many turnings are being produced,
a diameter
board will save the time used for resetting
calipers, This is
simply a thin board along the edge of which a number of
semi-circular
cuts have been prepared to represent
all the

LONG SPINDLES
A long turning can be worked
in short sections,
with joints
arranged
to be at shoulders
where they will not be noticed.

various
caliper settings
required for measuring
the sizing
cuts. Each semi-circular
cut is held against the workpiece
instead of using the calipers.
USING

DIAMETER

SIZING

GAUGE

Long thin work that is likely to whip while turning should be
supported
at one or two places by a backstick. This is easy to
make. A Simple one consists
of a short length
of wood
mounted
vertically
in an extra tool rest, and notched so that
it can be used to support
the spindle
from behind.
An
improved
type -- which
uses 2 roller skate wheels to form
the notch -- also is shown.

- 24909

Production work can be further speeded by the use of the
Diameter Sizing Gauge - 24909 to take the place of caliper
measurements,
The positions of the ar ms are set to indicate

,e your craflsman

wood-lathe

+ +!

Position the backstick against a pre-turned
Portion
near the
Center of the spindle, this port on being at least
1/8n over
finish
size to alloW for ater rernovat of any
marks
made
UpOn itl Operate
lathe at a slower
speed
than
norma
LubriCate
the workpiece
at point
of contact
with
the
backstick;
using beeswax (preferably),
lard or grease.
After
completing
the turning,
remov e the backstick
and f n ish off
the Original: point of cOntact_
remaining
on workp ece.

Sand

off

any

slight

burns

MISCELLANEOUS

GUIDE

BLOCKS

FOR SCRAPING

OPERATaONS

DRILLING

OPERATIONS

A guide block can be clamped to a chise_ to limit
the depth of
cut and aid in the production of perfect cylinders,
tapers and
facings on faceptate turnings, SCraping
methods
must be
used when the guide block is employed.

For cross drilling
flat sided work, use a (metal-lathe)
drilt
pad in the tailst ock and place a scrap board between the pad
and the work. For cross drilling round stock, use a (metallathe} crotch center in the tailstock. Work in which it is
desired to drill random holes can be positioned as desired
on supporting blocks laid upon the lathe bed+ It can be held
by hand -- or can be supported from behind by a drill pad
mounted
in the tailstock.

CROSS

DRILLING

FACEPLATE

& CHUCK

TURNINGS

BORING

PLANNING

THE WORK

Make
while

a layout
working

first, to provide
a visual pattern
to follow
the turning
Patterns
can be laid out in the

same
made

manner
which

as spindle patterns
-- or templates can be
can be held against
the work for visual

Now remove the buik of the waste (to rough-out
the desired
recess) by scraping
w_ th the roundnose
chisel or the gouge
Remove up To within
1 iSdn.
of finished
size in this manner.
Finish off the inside
circumference
by scraping
with the
spear-point
by scraping

comparison.
Circles to locate the various critical points (at
which the contours
of the faceplate
take distinct form) can
be quickly
scribed
on the rotating
work by using the
dividers.

PLANNING

VARIOUS

TO DEPTH

chisel or skew,
it fiat with the

Smooth
ftatnose

the bottom
chisel.

of the recess

Proper support
must
be provided
at all times for the
scraping
chisels
Severat
tool rest positions
are shown
in
the accompanying
illustrations.
Always endeavor to position
the part of the rest that supports
the tool as close to the
working
surface as possible.

CUTS

The circumference
of a faceplate
t urning is roughed-off
and
finished
in the same manner
that a spindle
is worked,
Practically all of the balance of the operations,
however,
are
done by using scraping methods.
A few of the standard
contours
which must often be turned are illustrated
in the

The depth and squareness
quickly checked by holding
and a combination
square

of the sides of the recess can be
one of the straight sided chisels
as shown_

accompanying
sketch
-- which
also shows the proper
chisels
for shaping
these contours.
Any roughing-out
to
depth that must be done is generally
accomplished
with the
gouge held in the scraping
position,
DEEP

RECESSES

The first step is to remove
as much wood as possible by
boring into the center with the largest wood bit available
This can be accomplished
as illustrated.
Be careful
to
measure
in advance the depth to which drill can be allowed
to go,

SPEAR

SKEW

so.u ROUNO
OSE
NOSE
USE OF
TEMPLATE

pLANNING
VARIOUS
CUTS

ROUND NOSE
CHISEL

SPEAR-POINT
CHISEL

MEASURING
DEPTH

RECHUCKiNG
Rechucking is the general term used to describe any
additiona{ work mounting that is necessary to complete a
turning project, The method of working cylinders, and the
use of a plug chuck as already described, are typical
examples. Another good example is the rechucking of a
bowl,

PREPARING

A PLUG CHUCK
t

A plug chuck is an auxiliary wood chuck mounted onto a
faceplate. The chuck can be any size in diameter -- should
be about 2-1/2_in. thick for stability -- and should be
provided with a 3/4- or 7/8-in. hole in the center for
receiving a tenon turned at the end of the workpiece. Once
made, such chucks are permanent useful fixtures for
turning bails, goblets, etc. In use, the wood stock for turning
is turned between centers to produce a tenon at one end
which wil! be a driving fit in the hole of the chuck. When
mounted in the chuck, the workpiece is substantially
supported for any faceplate type of turning.

The work is first mounted on a wood backing block secured
to the large faceplate, and is turned in the usual manner -all except the back side (which is against the mounting
block). It is then removed from the mounting block_An
auxiliary chuck of softwood is now made in the same
manner that the cylinder chuck is made. This chuck must
have a turned recess properly sized to accommodate the rim
of thebowt in a tight press fit. When the bowl is mounted in
this chuck, the bottom can be cleaned off and slightly
recessed to complete the desired contours.
TURNING

A RING

One method of turning a ring requires a spindle chuck. The
work stock is first mounted to a backing block held by the
large faceptate, and is turned to shape on the outer side.
The inside diameter of the ring is also shaped, all the way
through to the backing block. The work is then removed
from the backing block. A spindle chuck is now prepared so
that it will be a tight press fit inside the ring, and the ring is
reversed and mounted on this chuck. Thus mounted, the
remaining contours can be turned to shape.

Stock for cylinders should be mounted on the screw center
or a small faceplate. The tailstock can be brought up to
support the work while the circumference is being turned
and finished. Afterwards. thetaitstock is backedoff and the
outer end of the cylinder is recessed, using methods already
described fox making deep recesses.

After making a recess at least 1/2 of the way through the
workpiece, and finishing this on the inside, remove the
workpiece from the lathe. Now mount a short length of
softwood stock on the screw center and turn this down to
form a dowel that will be e tight press (not driving) fit inside
the recessed end of the cylinder, Mount the cylinder on this
wooden chuck, and recess the unworked end deep enough
to form a perfect hole through the entire cylinder.

If the ball is mounted as a faceplate turning, almost the
entire surface can be turned before it becomes necessary to
rechuck it. Rechucking can be accomplished in a deep cup
chuck which wil! hold the finished portion of the bail in a
tight press fit. Another method of rechucking is to use a
shallow cup chuck which wilt not support the bail alone, but
must be used in conjunction with the tailstock. When using
the shallow chuck, a wood block is fitted to the tailstock so
that the ball can revolve upon it. This block should be
lubricated with beeswax or grease• In using the shallow
chuck method, the ball is constantly shifted -- never more
than 1/8 turn -- and always with a definite system. Since
turning between centers makes the work a perfect sphere
across the grain, the ball must be mounted in the chuck so
that the first scraping cuts will round it up in the opposite
direction.

/
Another method of turning a ring makes use of a recessed
chuck• The work stock is mounted on a screw center and
one half of the ring is formed; but the ring is not cut away
from its center, The stock is then removed, and a recessed
chuck -- mounted on the large faceplate -- is prepared to
receive the ring in a tight press fit. After being chucked, the
remaining face of the ring can be turned to the proper
contour, thus cutting away the center portion. In work of
this type take constant measurements -- or better still, use
a template -- to guard against over or under cutting,

WOODBLOCK
SCREW
CENTER
/,

B.B. TAILSTOCK
CENTER

3
DEEP CUP CHUCK

SHALLOW

TURNED

TURNING

CUP CHUCK

BOXES

Turned boxes involve deep recessing together with a
special system of working the lid and body of the box
together as one unit. The inside of the lid is turned first.
Next, the inside of the body is turned. A careful check must
be made when turning the lip of the body portion so that the
lid will be a tight press fit. The lid is then pressed onto the
body anc_ the outer circumference and face of the tid,
together with the outer circumference of the body, are
turned atl at one time. This insures accurate matching of
the two pieces. After the work is complete, the tight fit of the
lid can be relieved by sanding the lip of the body.

BALLS

Wooden bails of large size are first roughiyturned between
centers, using standard procedures, Smaller balls can be
mounted as faceplates on the small faceptate or screw
center. Lines drawn to indicate the center and ends of the
ball shape are heipful in plotting the curve. A template
should always be used for accurate visual observation of
the work progress.

LtD

.... "_

L i

BACKING

FAC_E _

BLOCK

_s _

i--

[..L.
PLATE

your craftsman woodqathe

very
i
segment pieces for the
sides, Bow
(
or 8 pieces if desired. To
make the 12-piece bowl, a board about 7/Bx3x30 in. is cut
into pieces about 2-t !2-in, long, the saw blade being tiffed
15 ° and the board being turned alternately face up and face
down to make the successive cuts. These 12 pieces are
glued together and clamped by wrapping the assembh/with
wire. When dry, the rim thus formed is glued to a temporary
circular backing which _s mounted on the large faceplate.

HOW

A recess of the largest possible dia meter, and about 3/4-in.
deep, is turned in the open end of the rim. The rim is
removed from the lathe, and stock for the bottom is
mounted in its palce on a second faceplate. This is turned to
size -- and a rim about 1/8-in. deep is turned to exactly fit
the recess prepared in the rim. The rim is then fitted over
the bottom and glued, making a drum shape with a
faceplate at each end.This dr um is cut completely in two at
a point about 3/4-in. above the bottom -- completing the
cut with a hand saw. Both parts of the cut surface ere faced
off square and smootn -- then reglued together, breaking
the joints exactly half and half. The cutting and regluing
process is repeated with a section about 1-1/4-in. wide.
After this, the temporary backing block is cut off, leaving the
bowl as shown in me finat illustration.

TO TURN

From

this

down

the bowl

point

on the work

is simply

to any desired

shape.

a matter

of turning

PLASTICS

TYPES OF PLASTICS

USE OF WOOD TURNING

There are two general groups of plastics. The first includes
all phenol plastics moulded
under heat and pressure.
Bakelite and Formica are examples. In the second are all
catalyst Setting plastics of various bases sold under such
trade names as Lucite, Catalin, Cast Bakelite, Marblette.
Tenite and Trafford. Those in the second group are most
generally used for craftwork. They are easyto turn, being a
little harder than wood but much softer than any of the soft
metals.

Standard wood turning chisels are excellent for turning
plastics by means of scrap=rigmethods, The toot rest should
be slightly below center and the chisel handle should be
held a little higher than the cutting edge to give a negative
rake. Scraping tools should be used. The area contacted by
the tool should be kept toe minimum. A large contact area,
such as the full edge of the spear-point chisel, wilt cause
chatter and probable chipping,

MOUNTING
Rods

can

Properly worked, the chip comes off in a continuous ribbon,
In cold weather, plastic may become brittle and should be
tempered in warm water for about ten minutes before
turning.

THE WORK
be

mounted

between

mounting
centers
When the spur
should be sawed across the work,

centers,

using

center

is used.

CHISELS

wood
slots

USE OF FORMED TOOLS FOR PRODUCTION
AND SIMILAR OPERATIONS

POLISHING

When a number of identical pieces are to be produced, all
having a distinctive surface pattern, preformed tools will
speed the work and assure uniformity_ Patterns like those
illustrated can be created by grinding thin (_020 to .010)
gauge aluminum strips. A holder, like the one shown, can
then be used to support any one of your prepared strips
--and guide it against the workpiece.

SANDBNG,
USING

PLASTICS

Start with sanding. First use 150-grit dry paper to remove
tool mar_s,
then finish off with 150-grit
and 400-grit
papers,
in succession,
used wet. Press lightly to avoid
overheat ing and marring of the work. Buffing gives the final
polish, using the polishing compounds commonly supplied
for this p_rpose. Do not press too ha rd or hold wheel at one
spot too long -- keep moving around
-- otherwise
the
plastic might become heat marked.

BUFFBNG AND

THE LATHE TO SAND TURNINGS

POLISHING

Worn 2/0 paper is often used. and is the equivalent
or 4/0 new paper.

of 3/0

The application
of the sandpaper
strip is shown
in the
illustrations,
Care must be exercised
in order to prevent
dubbing
the corners
of beads, shoulders,
etc.

USE OF SANDING

DISCS

A fully adjustable
sanding table 9-24922
adds to the scope
and convenience
of sanding operations.
Sanding is always
done on the down-traveling
side of the wheel; working
on
the other s_de would kick the work upwards.
Either second
or third speed can be used.

Turnings should be sanded with the lathe running in
second towest speed, A large sheet of sandpaper is useful
for smoothing cylinders. All other sanding operations are
done with a narrow strip of abrasive paper. The best
finishing grit is 3/0 for softwoods, 4/0 for hardwoods,

The sanding
disc is a metal plato with a threaded
shank
which fits the end of the lathe spindle.
Abrasive
paper is
glued to the machined
surface of the plate by means of a
quick-drying
cement
supplied for this purpose,
Abrasive
discs can be purchased
or cut from the standard
sizes of
abrasive

paper,

PER
COVES

SANDPAPER

WOOD
FIBERS

SANDPAPER

your craftsman wood-lathe
The standard
•e
urned
glued

ly rubber

on the lathe,

or tacked

cylinders

and covered

in place,

with

drums

are commonly

made with

operation,
it is advisable to support the free end, using
either a ba|lbearing
or plain 60 ° center in the tailstock,

do satisfactory

=rage that special

sanding

threaded
hole to fit the grinding
wheel arbor. To guard
against loosening of the tapered shank while the drum is in

sizes, tapers.

USE OF WOOD

CHUCKS

FOR

SANDING

Quick-acting
chucks can be very useful for sanding operations on duplicate
production
parts. The chuck is made
slightly oversize, and a piece of rubber hose (for small partS)
is inserted in the recess to grip the workpieces.
Workpieces

can be changed without stopping the lathe.
X

(

The drum is used mainly for sanding the edges of curved
work. The squareness of the edge of the work can be best
retained by using a simple form of vertical fence, as shown.

ill rllll

J JJ

[LJH

WIRING

maintenance

WHITE

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH
"'OFF" AND REMOVE PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE
OUTLET BEFORE MAINTAINING
OR LUBRICATING
YOUR LATHE.

_rJ_

...........

DIAGRAM
WHITE

MOTOR
OUTLET
SWITCH

Apply a coat of automobile-type wax to the lathe bed to help
the tool rest and tailstock move freely.

BLACK

Have power cord replaced if it becomes worn or frayed_

GREEN

2POWER
CORD

lubrication
Periodically lubricate the ram in the tailstock with N o. 20
or No. 30 engine oil.
MOTOR MAINTENANCE
AND LUBRICATION

in order to prevent voiding the guarantee,
NOTE: The speed of this motor cannot be regulated
changed.

1. Thebearings, in both end shields of the motor, have been
lubricated at the factory with correct lubricant. No other
part of the motor requires lubrication.

4. Every effort should be made to prevent foreign material
from entering the motor, When operated under conditions likely to permit accumulations of dust, dirt, or
waste within the motor, a visual inspection should be
made at frequent intervals. Accumulations
of dry dust
can usually be blown out successfully.

2. Re-lubricate motor bearings in accordance with the
instructions on the nameplate, Be sure to wipe off dirt or
grit if present around oil hole caps to prevent any'
possibility of foreign material contaminating the oil
wicks that suppiy the bearings with oil. Use a good grade
of medium weight mineral oil. such as automobile
engine oi! SAE 20:

NOTE: Motors used on wood-working tools are particularly susceptible to the accumulation of sawdust and
wood chips and should be blown out or "vacuumed"
frequently to prevent interference with normal motor
ventilation and proper operation of the centrifugally.
operated starting switch.

3. If disassembly of the: motor is necessary, it should be
returned to your nearest Sears retail or mail-order store

Sears recommends the following
ITEM

CAT.

NO.

accessories

ITEM

Work Bench ..........................................
See Catalog
Motor Pulley (Four Step) 1/2" Bore ......... See Catalog
Motor Pulley (Four Step) 5/8" Bore .......... See Catalog
Drill Chuck 1/2" Capacity with
No. 1 MT. Shank ..............................
See Catalog
Screw Center with No. 1 M.T. Shank ....... See Catalog
Ball Bearing Center with
No. 1 M.T. Shank ...............................
See Catalog
60° Center with No. 1 M.T. Shank ........... See Catalog
Face Plate, 4" Dia. with 3/4"-!6 Thread
9 holes ......................................................
9-2489
9" Dia. Sanding Disc only with 3/4"-16
Thread ....................................................
9-24906

CAT,

Sanding Table .............................................
9-24922
Turning Tools ........................................
See Catalog
Draw Bolt with 1/4"-20 Threads ............... See Catalog
Power Tool Know How Handbook ................. 9-29117
Bowl Turning Tool Rest ................................
9-24903
Face Plate 6" with 3/4"-16 Thread
6 holes ....................................................
9-24904
Copy Crafter ................................................
9-24907
Speed Reducer .....................................
See Catalog
Face Plate 4" dia. with 3/4"-16 Thread
Cast Iron, 6 holes ...............................
See Catalog
Diameter Sizing Gauge ................................. 9-24909

Sears may recommend other accessories not listed in
the manual. See your nearest Sears store or catalog
department for other accessories.
Do not use any
accessory unless you have received and read complete instructions for its use.

trouble

shooting
WARNING:
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH "'OFF"
AND REMOVE PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE
OUTLET BEFORE TROUBLE SHOOTING.
TROUBLESHOOTING

TROUBLE
Motor

will not

Lathe slows

PROBABLE
run.

down

CHART

CAUSE

REMEDY

1. Defective On-Off switch,
Defective switch cord.
Defective switch box receptacle.
2, Motor protector
Open,
(only if your motor is
equipped
with an
overload protector).
3, Burned out motor

1, Replace
again.

1, V-belt

1. Adjust

too

loose

defective

2, Reset protector

parts before

when motor

using Lathe

has cooled,

3. Consult Sears Service. Any attempt
to repair this
motor may create a HAZARD
unless repair is
done by a qualified
service technician.
Repair
service is available at your nearest Sears Store,
belt tension,

see Assembly

Section.

when turning
Tailstock
rocks
back and forth

I, Brass adjusting
loose.

screw is too

I. Adjust screw. See Section,
Your Lathe".

"Getting

To Know

excessively.
Headstock
on bed,

loose

Wood burns at
taiistock
end.

1. Setscrew

not tight,

1, Cup center
lubricated,

too

tight

NO.

l, Tighten setscrew. See Section,
Know Your Lathe",
or not

"Getting

!. Back off tailstock
ran, and iubricate
cup center. See Basic Lathe Operation
Section, "Spindte Turr_ing,"

PROBABLE

REMEDY

CAUSE

1. Motor.

t. Have motor
technician.

checked
by qualified
service
Repair serwce
is available
at

your,nearest
.

Sears

store.

Motor fails to develop
fu(_l power.
NOTE;
LOW VOLTAGE:
Power
output of motor
:decreases rapidly
wdh
decrease _n vottage at
:-motor
terminals.
For

1. Circuit overloaded
lights
appliances
other motors.
2. Undersize
too long

example
a reduction
of
i0% in voltage Causes
a reduction
of 19% in
maxtmum
power output
of which the motor is

wires

with
and

or c_rcud

3. Genera[
overloading
power company
facilities.

Do not use other appliances or motors on
same circuit when using the lathe.

2. Increase
w_re sizes, or reduce
length of wiring
See "Motor
Specifications
and Electnca_
Requirements"
section,

3, Request a voltage
company.

check

from

the power

capable,
and a reduction
of 20% m voltage causes
a reduction
of 36% m
maximum power output.)

t
or falls to come

Low

voltage

trip relay.
2 Windings
or open.

will

burned

3: Starting
relay
operating
1. Motor
:
:
:

out

not

in
'

1. Take

2, improper
cooling,
(Air
circulation
restr cted

voltage,

1. Starting
sw_tch
operating

(resulting
m blown
fuses or tripped
circuit

breakers).

the power

company

or replaced

replaced.

shallower

cuts.
to provide
normal
air
motor.
and Lubrication"
section.

request

a voltage

2. Have capacitor
3

not

tested

Have wiring

checked

1. Have swttch

replaced

2. Voltage too low to permit
motoT to reach operating
speed.

2. Request

3. Fuses or circuit
breakers
do not have sufficient

3 Install

proper

1. Take

shallower

voltage

and
and

check

s_ze fuses

replace

=f defechve

repaired.

from

the power

company.

or circuit

breakers

or circuit

breakers.

capacity.
Frequent
opening
fuses or circuit
breakers.
i

1. Motor

check

etc.)

Shorted capamtor
Loose or broken
connections.

Motor stalls

repaired

from

1. Have switch replaced and
from the power company.

" (due tO extended
hold-in
periods caused
line

motor

check

2. Clean out sawdust
circulation
through
See "Maintenance

factor due to
accumulating

by low

Have

voltage

3. Have relay

inside of motor).
1 Burned switch contacts

Start ng switch
motor will not
operate.

1. Request

overloaded.

through
sawdust,

not

overloaded.

2. Fuses or circuit
breakers
do not have sufficient
capacity.

2. install proper

3. Starting
sw_tch not
operating
(motor does
not reach speed).

3. Have switch

cuts.
size fuses

replaced.

rep=ir pans
CRAFTSMAN

"_2-iNCH

WOOD

LATHE, MODEL

113,228162

NOTE:
ANY ATTEMPT
TO REPAIR THIS MOTOR
MAY CREATE
A HAZARD
UNLESS
REPAIR IS DONE
BY QUAUFIED
SERVICE TECHNICIAN.
REPAIR SERVICE IS AVAILABLE
AT YOUR NEAREST SEARS STORE.

Figure I

MOTOR
Key
No.
I

2
3

PART NO. 70055

Part
No.

Description

6030(_

Screw.

8-32

64088
64258

Cutting,
Slotted,
Hd.
Cover. Terminal
Cord with Plug

x 3/8,

Thread
Serrated

MOTOR

TERMINAL

CONNECTIONS
GREEN

WARNING:
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH
"OFF" AND REMOVE PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE
OUTLET BEFORE PROCEEDING.

INTERNAL
LOCKWASHER

1. Open motor connector
box cover located on left end of
motor
(viewed
from rear of saw) using a flat blade
screwdriver,
2. Remove

GREEN

SCREW

and

iockwasher

and

BLACK WIRE TO
TERMINAL TI

insert

screw through
round metal terminal on _he end of the
GREEN wire of power cord with leckvvasher between
terminal
and motor frame. {See iHus,)
3. ReinsertGREEN

SCREW

in the threaded

hole

Tighten
-TO

securely
4. Insert terminal end of WHITE wire on spade _erminat
r'narked T4 on the motor
Push terminal
firmly
until
seated,
5 Insert terminai
end
marked
T1 on the
seated.

GREEN
GREEN

STRAIN

WIRE
SCREW
RELIEF

WIRE TO
TERMINAL T4

of BLACK wire on spade terminal
motor. Push terminal
firmly
until

6. Close motor connector
box being surethat
power cord is
seated in the largest strain retief groove, and tighten box
cover screws.

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Craftsman 113228162 User Manual WOOD LATHE Manuals And Guides L0803531

CRAFTSMAN Lathe Manual L0803531 CRAFTSMAN Lathe Owner's Manual, CRAFTSMAN Lathe installation guides

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