Craftsman 113228162 User Manual WOOD LATHE Manuals And Guides L0803531

CRAFTSMAN Lathe Manual L0803531 CRAFTSMAN Lathe Owner's Manual, CRAFTSMAN Lathe installation guides

User Manual: Craftsman 113228162 113228162 CRAFTSMAN WOOD LATHE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your CRAFTSMAN WOOD LATHE #113228162. Home:Tool Parts:Craftsman Parts:Craftsman WOOD LATHE Manual

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MODEL NO.

313.228362

LATHE WITH MOTOR

[serial

! Number

Model and serial

number may be found

under belt guard.

You should record both

model and serial number

in a safe place for

future use.

CAUTION. O

Read GENERAL and

ADDITIONAL SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

cerefully

!2-INCH

WOOO-TURNING [A THE

*assembly

,operating

®repair parts

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

t No. SP4938 _e_ ,'<_

"FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY ON CRAFTSMAN WOOD LATHE

if within One year from the date of purchsse, this Craftsman Wood L_the fails due to adefect in material or

workmanship. Sears will repair it, free of cha rge.

WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY SIMPLY CONTACTING THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE

CENTER/DEPARTMENT THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES.

THIS wARRANTY APPLtES ONLY WHILE THIS PRODUCT IS iN USE'IN THE UNITED STATES.

This warranty gives you =pecifi0 legal rights, and you may atso have other rights which vary from state to state.

: SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., D/817 WA HOFFMAN ESTATES, IL 60195

general safety instructions for

1. KNOW. YOUR LATHE 13.

Read and understand owner's manual and labels affixed to

the tool, Learn its apphcation and imitations as well as _ts

specific Potential hazards peculiar to this tool. 14.

2. GROUND THE LATHE

This Lathe is equipped wi_h an approved 3-conductor 15.

cord and a3-prong grounding type plug to fit the proper

grounding type receptacle. The green conductor in the

cord is the grounding wire, Never connect the green wire

to a live terminal.

3. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE

=n working order, and in proper adjustment and align- 16,

mort,

4. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES

Form habt of checking to see that keys and adjusting 17.

wrenches are removed from toot before turning =t on.

5, KEEP WORK AREACLEAN

Cluttered areas and benches nvite accidents. Flour must 18.

not be slippery due to wax Or sawdust.

6. AVOID DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT

Don't use power tools in damp or wet locations or expose

them to rain. Keep work area well lighted, Provide ade-

quate surround ng work space: 19.

7. KEEP CHILDREN AWAY

All visitors should be kept a safe distance from Work area.

8. MAKE WORKSHOP CHILD-PROOF

- with padlocks, master switches, or by removing starter

keys. 20.

9. USE PROPER SPEED

The Lathe will do the job better and safer when ooerated

at the proper speed.

10. USE RIGHT TOOL

Don't force toot or attachment to do a job for which it

was not designed.

11. WEAR PROPER APPAREL

DO not wear loose clothing, gloves, neckties or jewelry

(rings; wristwatches) to get caught i_ moving parts. 21,

NONSLIP footwear is recommended. Wear protective

hair covering to contain tong hair. Roll long sleeves

above the elbow.

12. USE SAFETY GOGGLES (Head Protection) 22.

Wear safety goggles (must comply with ANSI Z87.1) at all

times. Everyday eyeglasses only have impact resistant len-

ses, they are NOT safety glasses. Also, use face or dust

mask if cutting operation is dusty, and ear protectors

(plugs or muffs) du ring extended periods of operation.

power tools

SECURE WORKPIECE

Vlount workpiece secureIv between centers.

DON'T OVERREACH

Kee3 proper footing ann balance at all times.

MAINTAIN TOOLS WITH CARE

Keep tools sharp and clean for best and safest perform-

ance. Follow instructions for ubricating and changing

accessori as.

DISCONNECT YOUR LATHE

before servicing; when changing accessories or attach-

ments.

AVOID ACCIDENTAL STARTING

Make sure switch is m "OFF" position before plugging

n.

USE RECOMM ENDED ACC ESSORIES

Consult this owner'smanua for recommended accessories.

Follow the instructions that accompany the accessories.

The use of improper accessories may cause hazards.

NEVER STAND ON LATHE

Serious injury could occur if the Lathe tips over.

Do not store materials such that it is necessary to stand

on the tool to reach them.

CHECK DAMAGED PARTS

Before further use of the Lathe, a guard or other part that

sdamaged should be carefully checked to ensure that it

wilt operate properly and perform its intended functiom

Check for alignment of moving oarts, binding.of moving

parts, breakage of parts, mounting, and any other con-

ditions that may affect its operation, A guard or other

part that is damaged should be properly repaired or

replaced.

DIRECTION OF FEED

Apply cutting tool to the workpJece against the direction

of sDindl%rotation.

NEVER LEAVE LATHE RUNNING

ATTENDED

Turn power "OFF" Don't leave Lathe until it comes to a

complete stop.

Safety is a combination of operator common sense and

alertness at all times when the Lathe is being used.

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, DO

NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE YOUR LATHE

UNTIL iT iS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED AND

INSTALLED ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUC-

TIONS ...AND UNTIL YOU HAVE READ

AND UNDERSTAND THE FOLLOWING:

PAG E

1. General Safety Instructions .................. 2

2. Getting to Know Your Lathe .................. 11

3, Basic Lathe Operation ....................... 13

4, Maintenance .............................. 30

5. The Lathe and motor must be bolted down to a stand

or workbench for stability.

6. Protection: Eyes, Hands, Face, Ears, Body

a. Wear safety goggles that comply with ANSI Z87.t-

1968, and a face shield if operation is dusty. Wear

ear plugs or muffs during extended periods of

operation.

b. When turning between centers or on the faceplate,

always rough-out "out of round" workpieces at

stow speed. Running the Lathe too fast, so that it

vibrates, could cause the workpiece to be thrown

from the Lathe. _ , or the turning tool to be jerked

from your hands,

c. Always revolve the workpiece by hand before turn-

ing on the motor. If the workpiece strikes the too!

rest, it could split and be thrown out of the Lathe.

d. Do not allow the turning tool to "bite" into the

workpiece which could result in splitting of the

workpiece or the workpiece being thrown from the

Lathe. Always position the tool rest above the

centedine of the Lathe for spindle turning. Do not

apply the turning tool to the workpiece below the

level of the toot rest.

e. Do not run the Lathe in the wrong direction. This

could cause the turning tool to be thrown from

your hands. The Lathe must run in a direction so

that the workpiece turns toward you.

f. Before attaching a workpiece to the faceplate al-

ways "rough it out" to as "true round" as possible.

This will minimize vibration while turning.

Always fasten the workpiece securely to the face-

plate.

Failure to perform these set-up operations could

cause the workpiece to be thrown from the Lathe,

g. Avoid awkward hand positions, where a sudden

slip could cause a hand to move into the workpiece.

h. Remove all loose knots before installing workpiece

between centers or on the faceplate.

i. Never leave the Lathe work area with the power on

before the Lathe has come to a complete stop, or

without removing and storing the switch key.

j. Never operate the Lathe with protective cover on

the unused shaft end of the motor removed,

Hang your turning tools on the wall toward the tail-

stock end of the Lathe. Do not lay them on the bench

so that you must reach over the revolving workpiece

to select them.

8. Keep firm hold and control of the turning toot at aH

times. Speciat caution must be exercised when knots or

voids are exposed to the turning tool.

9. Note the following DANGER label which appears on

the front of the belt guard.

DANGER

FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY:

READ AND UNDERSTAND THE OWNER'S

MANUAL BEFORE OPERATING MACHINE;

1. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES PER ANSI Z87.1

AND FACE SHIELD IF OPERATION iS

DUSTY.

2. DO NOT WEAR GLOVES, NECKTIES, OR

LOOSE CLOTHING. TIE BACK LONG HAIR.

3. BE POSITIVE ALL LOCKS ARE TIGHT BE-

FORE OPERATING MACHINE,

4. TURN WORKPIECE BY HAND BEFORE

APPLYING POWER TO DETERMINE IF IT

CLEARS THE TOOL REST OR OTHER MA-

CHINE PARTS.

5. ROUGH OUT FACEPLATE WORKPIECES

BEFORE INSTALLING ON FACEPLATE TO

AVOID EXCESSIVE VIBRATION AND POS-

SIBLE INJURY,

6. DO NOT MOUNT SPLIT OR CHECKED

WORKP|ECE OR ONE CONTAINING KNOT.

7. ALWAYS USE LOWEST SPEED WHEN

STARTING A NEW WORKPIECE, USING

FACEPLATE OR TURNING BETWEEN CEN-

TERS, TO MINIMIZE POTENTIAL iNJURY.

t0. Think Safety,

11. Complete hand sanding of between-centers or

faceplate mounted workpieces BEFORE removing

from the lathe. Do not exceed the speed used for the

last cutting operation performed on the workpiece, in

accordance with the speed chart.

12. NEVER attempt to remount a faceptate turning to

the faceplate for any reason. NEVER attempt to

remount a between-centers turning if the original

centers in the turning have been altered or removed.

BE POSITIVE the lathe _s set at the lowest speed if

remounting a between-centers turning with

non-altered original centers.

t3. Use extra caution in mounting a between-centers or

spindle turning to the faceplate, or a faceplate turning

to between-centers, for subsequent operations. BE

POSITIVE the lathe is set at the _owest speed before

turning ON.

14, NEVER mount a workpiece that contains any splits,

checks, or loose knots to a faceplate or between

centers.

15. Do not perform any operation when hand holding the

workpiece. Do not mount a reamer, mHIing cutter,

wire wheeI, buffing wheel, or a drill bit to the

headstock spindie.

16. Use the drill chuck accessory in the tai! stock o_,_y,

Do not mount any dri_I that extends more than 6

inches beyond chuck jaws.

WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW FAMaUARITY (GAINED WARNING: THE FOUR STEP LATHE AND MOTOR

FROM FREO_ENT USE OF YOUR MACHINE) TO BE- PULLEYS FURNISHED ARE DESIGNED TO RUN THE

COME COMMONPLACE. ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT LATHEATTHECORRECTSPEEDSWHENUSEDWnTH

ACARELESSFRACTIONOFASECOND ISSUFFICIENT A 1725 R.PoM. MOTOR. DO NOT USE A 3450 R.P.M.

T01NFUCTSEVERE INJURY. MOTOR TO INCREASE THE SPEED BECAUSE IT

COULD BE DANGEROUS.

The operation of any power tool can result in foreign

objects being thrown into the eyes, which can result in

severe eye damage. Always wear safety gogg|escomplying

with ANSI Z87.1 (shown on Package) before commencing

power tool operation. Safety Gogglesare available at Sears

retail or catalog stores.

GENERAL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR POWER TOOLS .... 2

ADDITIONAL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR WOOD TURNING

LATHE ....................................... 3

MOTOR SPECIFICATIONS AND ELECTRICAL

REQUIREMENTS ............................... 4

UNPACKING AND CHECKING CONTENTS ............... 5

ASSEMBLY . ;................................... 6

Mounting Lathe and Motor on Workbench ........... 7

Spur and Cup/Center Installation ................. 9

Om0ff Switch ............................... I0

CONTENTS

Spur Center and Cup Center {Aligning Centers) ...... 12

Tailstock ................................... 12

SpeedChart ................................ 13

BASIC LATHE OPERATIONS ....................... 13

ChangingSpeeds ............................ 13

SpindleTurning ............................. 14

Indexing................................... 15

HOW TO USE YOURCRAFTSMANWOOD-LATHE ........ 16

Check Motor Rotation ......................... 11

GETTING TO KNOW YOUR WOO D LATHE ............. 11

Belt Guard Lock ............................. 1t

Index Pin .................................. 11

Spindle Lock Hole .. ; ......................... 1t

Tool Rest Bracket Lock ........................ 11

Tool Rest Lock ............................... 11

To0t Rest Base Lock .......................... 1t

Handwheel .................................. 11

Woodworking Chisels and How to Use Them ........ 16

Making Standard Cuts ......................... 20

How to Handle Spindle Turnings ................. 22

Miscellaneous Operations ...................... 24

Faceplate and Chuck Turnings ................... 25

How to Make Fancy Faceplate Turnings ............ 26

How to Turn Plastics .......................... 28

Sanding, Buffing and Polishing .................. 29

MAINTENANCE ................................. 30

LUBRICATION .................................. 30

RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES .................... 31

TailstockRam Lock ........................... 11

TailstockLock ............................... 11

On*Off Switch .............................. 1t

motor specifications and

This Lathe is designed to use a1725 RPM motor only. Do

not use any motor that runs faster than 1725 RPM. It is

TROUBLESHOOTING ............................. 31

REPAIR PARTS ................................. 33

eJectrica requirements

ARD SUCH AS YOUR HANDS CONTACTING THE

CUTTING TOOL.

wired for operation on 110.120 volts, 60 Hz., alternating

current, IT MUST NOT BE CONVERTED TO OPERATE

ON 230VOLTS. EVEN THOUGH SOME OF THE RE-

COMMENDED MOTORS ARE DUAL VOLTAGE.

THESE MOTORS HAVE BEEN FOUND TO BE

ACCEPTABLE FOR USE ON THIS TOOL,

HP RPM VOLTS CATALOG NO,

1/3 1725 110-120 1282

t/2 1725 110-120 1278

;/2 1725 110-120 1279

1/2 1725 1t0-120 1289

CAUTION: Do not use blower or washingmachine motors

or any motor with an automatic resezoverload protector

astheir usemay be hazardous.

CONNECTING TO POWER SOURCE OUTLET

This machine must be grounded while in useto protect the

operator from electric shock.

Plug power cord into a 110-120V properly grounded type

If power cord is worn or cut. or damaged in any way,

have it replaced immediately.

tf your unit is for use on less than t50 volts it has a plug

that looks like below.

_ _3"PROI_G PLUG

_GROUNOfNG P_tONG

PROPERLY GROUNDED

3-PltONG OUTLET

This power tool is equipped with a3-conductor cord and

grounding type plug which hasa grounding prong, approved

by Underwriters' Laboratories, The ground conductor has

a green jacket and is attached to the tool housing at one

end and to the ground prong in the attachment plug at the

other end.

outlet protected by a 15-amp. dual element time deiay or

Circuit-Saver fuse or circuit breaker,

If you are not sure that you r outlet is properly grounded,

have it checked by squalified electrician.

WARNING: DO NOT PERMIT FINGERS TO TOUCH

THE TERMINALS OF PLUGS WHEN INSTALLING OR

REMOVING THE PLUG TO OR FROM THE OUTLET.

WARNING: IF NOT PROPERLY GROUNDED THIS

POWER TOOL CAN INCUR THE POTENTIAL HAZARD

OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK. PARTICULARLY WHEN

USED IN DAMP LOCATIONS IN PROXIMITY TO

PLUMBING. IF AN ELECTRICAL SHOCK OCCURS

THERE IS THE POTENTIAL OF A SECONDARY HAZ-

This plug requires a mating 3-conductor grounded type

outlet as shown.

If the outlet you are planning to use for this power tool is

of the two prong type DO NOT REMOVE OR ALTER

THE GROUNDING PRONG IN ANY MANNER. Use an

adapter as shown and always connect the groundir_g lug

to known ground.

It is recommended that you have a qualified electrician

replace the TWO prong outlet with a properJy grounded

THRE_E prong Outlet.

Atemporary adapter as shown below is available for

connecting plugs to 2-prong receptacles. The green ground-

ing lug extending from the adapter must be connected to a

permanentgroundsuchasto apropertygroundedoutlet

box.

Atemporaryadapteras illustrated is available for connecting

plugs to 2 -pro ng receptecles, The temporary adapter shouId

be used only until a properly grounded outlet can be

installed byaqualified electrician,

GROUNDING LUG

i _ MAKE SURE THIS IS

3-PRONG _'_ [-._-_-_-_--CONNECTED TO A

NowNGROUND

_,_-._ _N_ L_ Jt_'_- 2-PRONG

,_,_ /_'-_J_ RECEPTACLE

ADAPTER

NOTE: The adapter illustrated is for use only if you already

have a properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.

The use of any extension cord will cause some loss of

power. To keep this to a minimum and to prevent over-

heating and motor burn-out, use the table below to deter-

i, !l,i , _1

assembly procedure

UNPACKING AND CHECKING PARTS

PARTS TABLE

ABelt Guard Assembly ......................... 1

B Headstock ................................... 1

C Motor Pulley ................................. 1

D V-Belt ...................................... 1

E Motor ...................................... 1

F Large Toot Rest .............................. !

G Tool Rest Holder ............................. 1

H Tailstock and Ram ............................ 1

J Rear Foot ................................... 1

K Clamp Support ............................... 1

L Tube Or Bed ................................. 1

M Small Tool Rest .............................. 1

N Manual ..................................... 1

0 Loose Parts Bag Part No. 507458

(Containing the following items):

Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20x 1-3/4 ................. 4

Spur Center ................................ 1

Point Center ................................ 2

Cup Center ................................. I

Cord Clamp ................................ 2

Grip ....................................... 4

Switch Key ................................. 1

Lookwasher, Ext, #10 ........................ 4

Nut, Lock !/4-20 ............................ 4

Nut, Hex 1/4-20 ............................ 4

Nut, Sq. 1/4-20 ............................. 3

Nut, Hex Heavy 3/4-16 ....................... 1

mine the minimum wire size (A,W.G.} extension cord, Use

only 3 wire extension cords which have 3-prong grounding

type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which accept the tools

plug,

Extension Cord Length Wire Size A.W.G.

Up to 100 Ft. t6

t00- 200 Ft. 14

200- 400 Ft. 10

CHECK MOTOR ROTATION

Place the motor on your workbench or on the floor.

Standing clear of the motor shaft, plug the motor cord into a

properly grounded outlet. Notice the rotation of the shaft,

As you look directly at the motor shaft it should be turning in

the clockwise direction _ . If the motor shaft is turning

clockwise, remove the plug from the power outlet and

continue the assembly procedures, If the motor is turning

counterclockwise, remove the plug from the power outlet

and contact your Sears Store immediately.

!, !,,,,i , , ...... •.....

TOOLS NEEDED

Phillips Screwdriver

Screwdriver (Medium)

Framing Square

3/8 inch Wrench

7/16 inch Wrench

Screw, Pan Hd. Ty T 10-32 x !/2 ............. 4

Screw, Pan Hd. Ty AB #8 x 1/2 ................. 4

Shoe, Lock .................................. 2

Stud, Nut ................................... 4

Washer, 17/64 x 47/64 x 1/16 ................ 7

Wrench, Hex "L'" 3/16 ........................ 1

Wrench, Hex "'L" 5/32 ........................ 1

Handle ..................................... 4

A

assembly

1. UnpaCk all the part_ of your wood lathe and lay them

0ut in your work area so they can be recognized easily.

Checkall partswith the parts table and be careful not to

"ilose any parts during assembly.

2_ Begin by placing thetUbe assembly on your workbench

as shown. Always keep the squa red key section straig ht

down.

TUBE ASSEMBLY

l

!

/

SQUARED KEY SECTION

.3. Slide the headstock onto the tube until it stops against

the squared key section, Insert locking setscrew and

tighten with hex wrench.

SPINDLE PULLEY

t

TUBE

HEADSTOCK-TUBE LOCKING

SETSCREW tN REAR OF

HEADSTOCK X

HEADSTOCK SPINDLE

_ED KEY

SECTION

4. Slide the clamp support onto the middle of the tube.

Assemble lock handle as shown.

6. Set large tool rest in tool rest holder and install locking

handle as shown.

REST

Slide tailstock assembly onto the tube and install

tailstock ram spindle lock handle. Notice location of

keyed way i_ spindle with studnut,

TAILSTOCK RAM SPINDLE

KEYED

HEADSTOCK END _

STUDNUT

HANDLE

/LOCKNUT

TAILSTOCK ASSEMBLY

8. On the backside of the tailstock asse ruble the locking

devices as shown.

5. Attach the tool rest bolder to the clamp supporl as

shown,

HEX BOLT _.__ TOOL REST

HOLDER

sPACE"

HANDLE _% : "_'_-2

LATWASHER @"a

"--..

_THREADED HOLE

_ I _ IN CLAMP SUPPORT

CLAMP SUPPORT

TAILSTOCK ASSEMBLY LOCKNUT_

_._... ,.,....%% ,._ HANDLE

lllill ts.o2?0CKV---STUONOT

t!!. IIYI f- -----J

ND

BRASS SCREW @"_'-LOCKING NUT

9. Instal] the rear foot onto the tube as shown and tighten

rear foot to,cking screw, Foot wilt wedge into ptace as

screw is tightened. This may take several attempts,

HEADSTOCK END

IREAR FOOT

TUBE ASSEMBLY

MOUNTING YOUR LATHE AND MOTOR ON

A WORKBENCH

SPECIAL NOTE: For best results when mounting your

lathe and motor to aworkbench, lay them both on your

bench in the position which will best suit your needs. Be

sure the motor and lathe are in a parallel position andthen

mark the mounting hole positions. Or, use the diagram

shown.

1. Workbench for mounting Lathe must be at least 54-in.

long. Drill six 3/8" holes in your bench according to the

diagram, NOTE: Make sure the top of your bench is

positioned so that you don't drill into the legs or rail

underneath and you have access underneath to mount

the nuts for lathe and motor bolts.

When mounting to a Sears workbench, side overhang

of top at headstock end should be 5" from leg portion of

stand. (Front overhang of top should remain 1-1/8").

6 1t8' ----+--, 3'_

HOLES FOR MOTOR i 4f7/8 '"

14 5/8"

HOLES FOR LATHE,

63/16"

4 118" ---i 1 3/8"

/,

FRONT OF BENCH E

LOCATION OF MOUNTING HOLES

2. Position Lathe on bench and insert two bo_ts through

holes in headstock but do not screw on the nuts.

3, Position the Lathe so that the bed is paralleltothe front

of the bench. Check the foot, if the bottom of the foot is

not fiat on the surface of the bench, loosen the screw in

the foot, tap the screw to loosen the Iocknut inside. Turn

the foot so it is flat on the bench and tighten the screw,

4, Mark the location on the bench of the hole in foot.

5, Remove the Lathe and drill a 3/8" hole to attach the

foot.

6. Position the Lathe and insert the bolts from the top,

Place aflat washer, Iockwasher and anut on the bolts

and tighten the nuts.

7. Position the motor over the mounting holes.

8. Insert the bolts from the top. Place a flat washer and a

nut on the bolts but do not tighten the nuts at this time.

BED PARALLEL TO

FRONT EDGE OF BENCH

FOOT

9, Removethe headstockpulleyusingtheS/32"setscrew

wrench.

10, Find four pan head thread cutting screws 1/2" tong and

four Iockwashers from among the loose parts. Attach

the bett guard with these screws and Iockwashers_ The

arrows in this illustration show the location of the

screws.

/

With the end of the la{he spindle: Tighten the pulley

screw against the flat:of theshaft

12, P|ace the motor pulley on the motor shaft so that the

small diameter is approximately 1/16 away from the

motor. Tighten the setscrew with a 5/32" setscrew

wrench securety against the flat spot on the motor

shaft.

t3. Place the belt on the pulleys and slide the motor toward

the rear of workbench until all the slack is removed from

the belt. NOTE: 1/2 inch deflection of belt under

moderate pressure applied between the two pulleys is

adequate tension. Tighten only two of the motor

mounting bolts.

14. Place astraightedge such as apiece of wood, metal or

framing square across the pulleys to see if they are in

line with each other, tf they are, tighten the other two

motor mounting bolts. If they are not in line, loosen the

two motor bolts and move the motor sideways .

tighten the boJts.

15. Find four pan head wood screws t/2" long from a mong

the loose parts

16, Attach the belt guard plate to the bench with the two

screws. Make sure the plate is PARALLEL to the belt.

17. Plug motor cord into outlet o n back of switch box. DO

NOT pJ4ugmotor cord into power source outlet

18. Position the twocordsasshown andclamp themtothe

table with two cable clamps and 1/2" wood screws

from the loose parts bag.

t9. Coil upthe stack in the cord and tie it with a piece of tape

if necessary.

CABLE CLAMPS

MOTOR CORD

SPUR AND CUP/CENTER 1NSTALLATIOt_

1, Find a 3/4-16 hex nut among the loose parts and scr(_w

onto head stock spindle until finger tight,

3/4 16

HEX NUT

/

i!. |

2. Find two points and a spur ahd cup ct.m_er amo_g the

loose parts. To insert poir_t ir_to cer_ters, _)Jace cente_

between jaws of a vise. Do not ti£hte[_vice h_seq p[_i_

into center and with a hammer and r_ai_ ger_tly tap

around the base of the poh_t until secure

J

f

3, Insert spur center into head stock spir_dle and cup

center into tai;stock ram. NOTE: Do not drive or

hammer centers into spindte or ram as removal may be

difficult, Use a soft hammer or block of wood and give

them agentle tap,

4. To remove spur center from spindle, hen the spindle

pulley with one hand, and, using a wrench or pair of

pliers, turn the hex nut counterclockwise until center

is ejected.

& To remove cup center insert a 1/4" wood dowe_ or brass

rod through the hole in the tailstock ram. Ho{d the

center with one hand and tap the dowet or rod with a

hammer.

\CENTER

TAILSTOCK

RAM

FOOT

assemblly

WARNING:OONT CONNECTPOWERCOROTO

ON-OFF SWITCH

The On-Off Switch has a locking feature. THIS FEATURE

IS INTENDED TO PREVENT UNAUTHORIZED AND

POSSIBLE =HAZARDOUS USE BY CHILDREN AND

OTHERS.

1, Insert key into switch.

NOTE: Key is made of yellow _lastic. _1;

KEY

(YELtOW _AST It1

2. To turn Lathe ON,.. INSERT finger under switch lever

and pull END of switch out.

J

KEY

3.: To turn Lathe OFF... PUSH lever in,

Never leave the Lathe unattended until it has come to a

complete stop ant you have removed the switch key.

Do net cycle the motor switch on and off rapidly, as

this may cause the faceplate or sanding disc to loosen.

In the event this should ever occur, stand clear of the

face plate or sanding d_sc until it has come to acomplete

stop, ,. retignten it.

4. To lock switch in OFF position ... HOLD switch IN

with one hand, REMOVE key with other hand.

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, AL-

WAYS LOCK THE SWITCH "OFF". WHEN

LATHE IS NOT IN USE ... REMOVE KEY AND

KEEP IT IN A SAFE PLACE .ALSO. IN

THE EVENT OF A POWER FAI'LURE (ALL'OF

YOUR LIGHTS GO OUT) TURN SWITCH OFF,,.

LOCK IT AND REMOVE THE KEY. THiS WILL

PREVENT THE LATHE FROM STARTING UP

AGAIN WHEN THE POWER COMES BACK ON.

Io

_OLD

I

I

\\

PULL

ROTATION

CHECK SPINDLE ROTATION

The Lathe spindle must rotate counterclockwise when

viewed from the spindle end,

NOTE: Make sure the spur center is removed from the

spindle.

1. Plug the Lathe power ,cord into a properly grounded

outlet (See page 5)

2. Stand clear of the Lathe spindle and tur n the switch ON.

Notice the rotation of the spindle. If it is NOT turning

COUNTERCLOCKWISE contact your Sears Store im-

mediately before using this tool,

TERMINAL

coVER

getting to know

BACK OF TOOL

BELT GUARD

2INDEX PIN

your b'VO Od

11 spu.

CENTER

3 SPINDLE

LOCK

HOLE

lathe

7HANDWHEEL

TAILSTOCKRAM /

10 CUP CENTER

8 TAILSTOCK RAM

TOOL REST

TOOL REST _"_

BASE

TOOL REST

BASE LO¢

SPINDLE

!3

SPEED

1BELT GUARD

LOCK

1 0 ON-OFF

SWITCH

HEADSTOCK

I. BELT GUARD LOCK... Locks the hinged part of the

guard during operation.

2. INDEX PIN.,. Engages with the spindle pufley to

determine equal spacing for cuts for fluting or reeding,

or for dividing face plate work. DO NOT USE FOR

REMOVING FACEPLATES,

3. SPINDLE LOCK HOLE.., For removing faceplates or

sanding discs, insert a setscrew wrench, large na_I or

bolt in the hole to hold the spindle while unscrewing

faeep_ate or sanding disc,

4. TOOL REST BRACKET LOCK._. Clamps the tool

rest bracket to the bed,

\BED

FOOT

)TAILSTOCK

LOCK 12 TA,LSTOCK

TOOL REST

LOCK

4TOOL REST

BRACKET LOCK

FRONT OF TOOL

5. TOOL REST LOCK.., Clamp the too_ rest to the tOOl

rest base.

6. TOOL REST BASE LOCK... Clamps the tool rest

base to the bed.

7. HANDWHEEL • . . Adjusts the tailstock ram.

8. TAILSTOCK RAM LOCK,.. Clamps the ram in the

taiistock,

9, TAILSTOCK LOCK.,-CIamPs the tailstock to the

bed,

10. 0N-0FF SWITCH

11

,, °_--=1!--= ......... i

i :gethng to know your wood mafhe

1|. SPUR CENTER AND CUP CENTER_.. are usea for

sPi ndle turn ing and should a iway s be in alignment.

ALIGNING CENTERS

If the centers are not in line as shown, make the follow

ing adjustments.

1. Make sure the tailstock and ram are locked when

checking for alignment.

2. Loosen the screw in the foot. _ TAP the screw to

loosen the tocknut inside.

3, Using a 3116" setscrew wrench, loosen the setscrew

on the back of the headstock. The screw is located

about 1-3/4 "° from the bottom.

4. Swing the tailstock so that the two points are Jn

line. ,. tighten the setscrew in the headstock and the

screw in the end Df the tailstook.

3/16" SETSCREW

WRENCH

HEADSTOCK F

3116"

SETSCREW 1

FOOT

TAI LSTOCK _

_ANDWH_ EW

12. TAILSTOCK _ .supports the workpiece for spindle

turning.

The tailstock contains a brass screw which bears against

the "key" on the underside of the bed. This screw Dre_

vents excessive "looseness" (rocking back and forth} of

the tailstock.

t, Loosen the locknut using a 7/t6" wrench.

2. Tighten the screw moderately against the key, then

loosen it about 114 turn.

Slide the tai}stock atong the bed. If it does not stick or

bind in any one spot, tighten the nut. I f it binds or sticks.

loosen the screw only enough so that the tailstock slides

smoothly along,the bed.

BRASS ',

SCREW LOCKNUT KEY

12

13. SPEED CHART ,..indicates general recommended

speeds for various sizes of workpieces.

WARNING: Always use lowest speed when starting a

new workpiece, using faeeplate, or turning between

centers to avoid possible injury.

SPINDLE SPEED

MOTOR SP|NDLE

iJ 'ti -- {:..... .....J

basic lathe operations

WARNING: For your own safety, turn switch "OFF"

and remove plug from power source outlet before

making any adjustments.

CHANGI NG SPEEDS

The belt is shown positioned on the second steps from

the outside end of the pulleys, This causes the lathe to

run 2250 R.P.M.

Suppose you wish to run the lathe slower _ say, 1350

R.P,M, You must shift the belt inward.

ROTATE MOTOR

COUNTERCLOCKWISE PULLEY

1. Make sure the power cord is removed from the outlet,

2, With the belt guard raised, rotate the motor pulley

COUNTERCLOCKWISE with your left hand while

pushing on the belt with your right hand,

3. Continue to rotate the pulley while pushing on the

belt until it "climbs" down into the third step of the

motor pulley.

4. Now rotate the spindle pulley C LOC KWtS E with your

right hand while pushing on the belt with your left

hand. The belt will climb up into the third step of the

spindle pulley,

To make the lathe go faster, the belt must be shifted out-

ward.

1, Rotate the spindle pulley CLOCKWISE with your

right hand, Pull on the belt while rotating the pulley

until it climbs down into the next smaller step.

2, Nowrotate the motor pulley COUNTERCLOCKWISE

with yourleft hand while pulling on the belt with your

right hand. The beit will climb up into the next larger

step.

ON

BELT

SPINDLE

PULLEY

13

basic lathe operations

If you have never done any amount of wood turn ng, we

suggest that you practice using the various wood turning

tools. Start with=a small spindle turning.

Be sure to study the "HOWTO" section of this manual, It

explains and illustrates thecorreet use ofthe turnings tools,

the positioning of the tool rest and other information to help

you gain experience.

1, Carefully inspect and select a piece of wood 2" x 2" x

12" and always use wood free of checks, splits, cracks

or knots.

2, Draw diagonal lines on each end to locate the centers

3. On oneend, makeasaw cut approximately 1/16" deep

on each diagonal line. This is for the spur center.

4 The other endis for the cup center. Place the point of

the cut center on the wood where the diagonal lines

cross,

DIAGONAL LINES

ON BOTH ENDS

5. Drive the cup center into the wood. Use a wooden

mallet or a plastic hammer, if you don't h ave one, use a

steel ha mmero but put a piece of wood on the end of the

cup center to protect it.

6. Remove the cup center and drive the spur center into

the other end of the wood. Make sure the spurs are in

the saw cuts, Remove the spur center.

7. Make sure the centers and the hole in the spindle and

the tailstock ram are clean, insert the spur center rote

the headstock and the cup center into the tailstock and

tap them in lightly with a piece of wood, Do not drive

them in.

8. Put adrop of oil or wax on the wood where it contacts

the cup center. This witl lubricate the wood while it is

turning,

9. Place the wood between the centers and iock the

tailstock:

WARNING: Be sure the spur center and cup center

are firmlyseated against the workpiece and thatthe

tailstock is securely locked in place.

i0, M0vethe cup center intothe wood byturnmg the hand

wheel. Make sure that the cup center and spur center

are "seated" into the wood in the holes made insteps 5

and 6 above. Rotate the wood by hand while turning the

hand wheel.

t 1. Adjust the tool rest approxirnately 1/8" away fro m the

corners of the wood and 1/8" below the center line.

Note the angled position of the toot rest base.

WARNING: For your own safety, after adjusting the

tool rest be sure and lock the toot rest base and the

tool rest.

TOOL REST

14

Lookatthespeedchart.Noticethata2"squareturning

upto18"longshouldrunat875R.P.M.for"roughing".

MovetheV-beltonthepulleystotheslowestspeedas

outlinedunder"'Changing Speeds" section,

WARNING: For your own safety rotate the wood by

hand to make sure that the corners do not strike the

tool rest or anything else before turning the Lathe

"'ON", Always be sure the workpiece is properly

mounted and the Lathe is set at the proper speed

(RPM).

INDEXING

The spindle pulley contains 36 equalty spaced ho_es. The

index pin engages with these holes to keep the spindle

from turning while you put a mark on the workpiece.

For example: To focate the position of six spokes in a

wheel:

1. Pult the index pin outward and turn it so that the small

cross pin slips into the slot, This will allow the index

pin to engage in one of the holes in the pulley and pre-

vent the spindle from turning_

2, Adjust the tool rest approximately at the centeriine

and make a mark.

3. Pull out the index pin and slowly rotate the workpiece

until the pin slides into the next hole in the pulley.

4. Do th is six times and put the next mark on the work-

piece, The two marks will be spaced 60 ° apart, Con-

tinue this operation until six spokes are marked 60 °

apart.

5, Spindle turnings can be divided in the same manner,

t5

•cratts an wood-Uathe

INGCH|SELs AND HOW TO USE THEN

:PARTING TOOL

iBe_ ch+s+iS ha_e bandies approximately l O-in. t+ongo to

pt-oVide plenty Ofgripand leverage, sharp tools are ess ent ia |

for Clean+ eas+y work buy tools that will take and hold

keen edges

THEORYOF TURNING

CUTTING CHISEL SCRAPING CHISEL

The Two Classes of Chisels

Theseare: 1} Chisels intended primarily for cutting, a nd 2)

chisels used only for scraping: The cutting chisels are the

gouge, :skew and parting tool. These are the most used.

They are com monly sharpened to arazor edge by honing on

both sicles_ The scraping chisels are the flatnose, round

nose and spear point. These are not honed on the flat sides

-- the wire edges produced by grinding are left on to aid in

the scraping process.

To cut, the chisel is held so that the sharp edge actually d_gs

into the revolving work to peel off shavings. To scrape. _he

chisel is held at a right angle to the work surface, and

removes fine particles instead of shavings. Ma ny operations

require that the cutting chisels be used for scraping; bu_

scraping chisels are practically never used for cutting:.

Scraping dulls achisel much faster, especially the razor

sharp cutting chisels. Cutting is faster than scraping and

produces asmoother finish which requires less sanding.

However. it is far more difficult to master. Scraping, on the

other hand. is far more precise a nd easier to control.

___SCR_P_

SPEAR P0tNT FLAT NOSE

USED CHISEL TYPES

ROUND NOSE

When You Can Cut, and When You Must Scrape

There are two different approaches to the work when

turning, One approach is toward acircumference of the

workpiece (fore×ample, turning down the outer surface of a

cylinder or the inner wall of a hollow round box.) in this

approach, the surface being turned travels under the chise_

edge tike an endless belt. The second approach is toward

the diameter of aworkpiece (as when turning the face of a

faceplate turning, or the side of alarge shoulder on a

spindle turning), In this approach the surface being turned

rotates like adisc under the chisel edge, Sometimes the

approach will be a combmat+on of both,

¢

t

!

_---_,vCI RCUMFER ENCE

"-....J/ _ APPROACH_

DIAMETER .... 1t

APPROACH

Either a cutting or scraping action can be used when the

approach =s toward a circumference -.- the shaving is

removed tike a _eeling from apotato_ Scraping, only, can be

used when the approach is toward a diameter, The reason

is obvious when you consider that faceplate turning practi +

cally always req u_res removal of wood across the grain.

Wood does not peel easily across the grain, and attempts to

use cutting methods will likely result in damage to the work

and throwing of the chisei by the work.

it follows that a cutting action is used for the genera_ run of

spindle turning operations , +. while the major part of a

facep_ate turning is done by the scraping method, When a

combination approach is to be used+ you will have to judge,

by me feel of the work. when to stop cutting and start

scraping Never try to cut when it becomes difficult to hold

the chisel against the roughness of the wood grain.

How to Position Tool Rest for Circumference Cutting

When cutting, the object ia to pierce the outer skin of wood

to a ceGa_n desired depth, then to hold the chisel steady,

with the bevel edge paral;et to the work circumference, so

that it will peel off a shaving at this desired depth. The on+y

sure method of holding the chisel steady is to rest the bevel

against the work. as shown in sketch 1. When the toot rest

is at the proper height (sketch t ), the chisel ca n be held with

the bevel pressed against the work, and the tool rest will act

as afulcrum to support the chisel against the downward

force of the revolving work,

"16

STEADY 1(_ 0/F5 RCE

THRUST _,'_

AGAINST /i _Bev_et

HAedDS ain

Jor.._

Chise!

cutting

properly.

2No support

,_j, for

CHATTER G/_ bevel'

•//pofnt

tOO 'digging in.

Rest too low;

chisel too horizontal.

3

_!_Rest

4Rest too

_,0_ high-

KICKBACK _

mmw_m _ chisel

/// toohigh

HANDLE (_

KICKED U_

Rest too distant -chisel too high,

point too far from rest.

7

If the rest is placed too low, so that the chise! is held with the

bevel out from the work (sketch 2}, the cutting edge will

continue to dig deeper into the work. It will dig in until the

"'bite" becomes so deep that your hands have difficulty

holding the chisel -- then the improperly supported chisel

will begin to bounce, or chatter, against the workplace.

If the rest is placed too tow, the chisel must be held

extremely high to position the bevel against the work

(sketch 3). Then the rest loses most of its value as a fulcrum,

and the downward force of the revolving workplace tends to

kick the chisel back out of your hands.

If the rest is placed too high (sketch 4) and the chisel is

correctly positioned for cutting, it strikes the workpiece

near the top where the direction of force exerted by the

workpiece is nearly horizontal -- and kickback will again

result.

If the rest is placed too far out from the work surface (sketch

5}-- then, when correctly heid, the chisel is again too high

on the work. Also, you have less leverage on your side of the

tool rest -- and it is even more difficult to hold the chisel

With large diameter work (sketch 6), the tool rest can be

above the workpiece centertine, and somewhat out from

the work surface. With small d_ameter work (sketch 7), the

rest should be lowered almost to the centeHine, and shoutd

not be far from the work surface. As work grows smafler,

the rest should be repositioned.

How to Position Toot Rest for CircumferenCe Scraping

In scraping operations, the too_ rest posit{on is not as critica!

as it is for cutting operation, s. The chisel generally is held

horizontally, though it can be he_d_ at an _ngfe to reach into

tight places. Considering that the wife edge of the ehisef

8/

CORRECT

9 / yo /

DIGGING //

STOCK \

REMOVE D \\

does the scraping, sketches 9 and 10 show the results of too

!ow or too high a position for the rest; and sketch 8 shows

the chisel action with the rest correctly positioned.

How to Position Chisel and Rest for Diameter Scraping

When scraping on the diameter, that port,on of surface to

the right of center is moving upward (sketch 1 t ) If chisel is

placed in this area, it will simply be carried up off the rest

and out of your hands All diameter approach operations

must be done at the taft of center

.....Ti '"i...."' i ......

/

;.........!, .L .

.................................. i...........

/_

'x,\ _ ///

REST"t .......... .......1 1 12 .__

Throe different chisel contact po*nts are shown in sketch

! 2. it will be noted that, when chise! is above the workpiece

center, or be_ow it, the work surface sweeps past the ch iset

edge at an angle and tends to carry the chisel JR orle

direction or the other along the rest. Orfly when the chisel

contacts the work or_ the centerfine does the work surface

pass squarely under the chisel edge. This, then, is the

position in which it is easiest to hold the chise_ steady. To

obtain this position, place the res_ appr'oximate}y I/8. inch

{thickness o{ chise!) below centel.

USING THE GOUGE

"}"hroe gouges, the t/4. I/2- _nd 3/4-in sizes, are ampie

for general homeshop turning; but ether srzes from I iS- to

2-in can be purchased

The chief use of the gouge is for rough circumference

cutting of raw stock down to a cylinder of working size it ts

the best too_ ,_ouse for r_pid cutting away of _arge a_eas of

the workpiece; but when so used does not produce a

smooth surface With practice, it can be used for cutting

coves and the shaping of _ong cuts ----is also usefui fo_

scraping.

_7

howto use your craftsman wood-lathe

--.... CUTTING EDGE

" ANCEO WRONG CUTTING SCRAPING

I

When used for cutting, the gouge is always held with the

convex side down° It should be rolled approximately 30 ° to

45 ° in the direction in which it is being advanced along the

rest; and the cutting edge should be a little in advance of the

handle.

USING THE SKEW

Two skews, the I/2- and 1-in. sizes, are allthat are needed

for general use. Other sizes are available, This tool isnearly

always used to make finish cuts. to cut vees and beads, and

to square shoulders. Properly used, it produces the best

finish that can be obtained with a chisel, It should be used

but little for scraping, as this quickly dulls it.

Path

of cut.

PULL SWING _NO _..__ _....., Y ES

BACK TOOL

I_I.._I I II _

&;o,, not

cut.

USING TOE HEEL /_"

For-finish cutting, the skew is held with the cutting edge

considerably in advance of the handle, bevel side down.

Keep the base of the bevel against the work. Good practice

iSto place the skewwe|t over the work, pull it back until the

edge begins to cut, then swing the handle into position to

advance the cut. Both the toe and the heel of the skew can

be used for taking light cuts; but do not penetrate the wood

too deeply without cutting clearances, asthere is danger of

burning the tip of the tool.

USING THE PARTING TOOL

The parting tool has just one primary purpose: to cuz

stra Jghtinto the workpiece a sdeep as desired, orall the way

through to make a cut-off. It is therefore a very narrow tool

-- 1/8-ir_, wide-- and is shaped to cut its own clearance so

that the edge wil! not be burned. When used for scraping,

however, it should be backed off regularly to prevent

overheating.

Unlike the gouge and skew, the parting tool is seldom held

with the bevel against the work. As the amount of stock

removed is small, a support for the bevel is not necessary.

The tool is simply fed into the work at an angle (for cutting),

or pointed at the workpiece center (for scraping). It can be

held easil_ in one hand.

USING THE SCRAPDNG CHISELS

A1/2-in. wide spear point chisel, a !f2-in. wide round

nose chisel, and a 1 -in. wide flatnose chisel complete the

list of tools ordinarily used by home craftsmen. Each of

these scraping chisels can be purchased in various other

sizes for special purposes. All are very useful for diameter

scraping operations and for circumference scraping, when

cutting methods cannot be employed.

SPEAR ROUND FLAT

POINT NOSE NOSE

The spear point is used for fine scraping and delicate

operations, such as the forming of beads, parellel grooves

and shallow vees. Edges and bowl contours can be rounded

with the round nose chisel. Any flat surface can be scraped

with the flatnoSe chisel.

USING SHAPER OR MOULDING KNIVES

An old chisel ca n be made to serve as a holder for shaper or

moulding knives. Such knives make it possible to scrape

many interesting shapes in the workpiece surface in one o_

two operations, instead of the many operations required

with standard chisels_ It is generally not practical to use

cutting methods with special shapetools; scraping methods

should be used.

f°

The holder should provide a shoulder against which the butt

end of the knife can be firmlyseated; and the knife must be

securely mounted, either by means of ascrew threaded into

the holder, or by compressing it between two prongs bolted

together.

18

Clear, glass-smooth finishes(especially on soft-woods) can

be obtained by using ablock plane set to take afine shaving,

The tool rest should be raised up approximately to the top of

the workpiece -- and the plane should be horizontal, but

turned stightly in the direction of travel so that it will take a

shearing cut, Two tool rests, one in front and the other

behind the work, can be used to advantage in positioning

the plane so as to exactly l imitt he depth of cut (and fin ished

size of the workpiece),

USING WOOD RASPS AND FILES

A wood rasp will remove stock quickly when hetd against

the revolving workpiece. Care should be taken to support

the rasp firmly against the tool rest, however, as it can tear

the hands painfully if caught by a rough edge of the

workpiece and kicked back. The rasp will leave a very rough

finish.

Finer finishes(similar to those produced by scraping) can be

obtained by using files in the same manner. Various shape

files can be used for shaping vees, beads, coves, etc. If

pressed into the wood too hard, however, a file can burn the

workpiece surface. Keep the file clean to keep it cutting

uniformly. Files work best on hardwoods.

HAND POSITIONS

WARNING: Keep firm hold and control of the turning

tool at all times. Avoid awkward hand positions where a

sudden stip could cause ahand to move into the

workpiece.

In handling allof the chisels the handle hand takes a natural

position, being nearer or farther from the end depending

upon the amount of leverage required. The position of the

toot rest hand is a'matter of individual liking; but there are

three genera!ly accepted positions, each best for certain

types of operations.

ROUGHING OFF

I

Roughing-offand other heavywork requires a firm grip and

solid positioning of the chisel against the rest. This is best

obtained by the tool-rest hand position illustrated. The wrist

is dropped down sothat the heel of the hand below the tittle

finger acts as a sliding guide against the rest. The handle

hand controls chisel position.

19

FINISH CUTTING

Finish cutting requires more control with less force -- and

is better done with the palm of the tool-rest hand turned up,

The wrist is still held down, and the side of the index finger

acts as agu ide along the rest. In this position, controt of the

chisel is shared by both hands, the fingers of the tool-rest

hand being free to assist in positioning the tool.

IN TRICA TE CUTTING

Intricate, delicate cutting requires extreme control, with

practically no force. This is best accomplished by guiding

the chisel with the fingers of the tool-rest hand. The hand is

held palm up, with the wrist high -- with the little finger

placed against the rest to steady the hand, The chisel does

not touch the rest; and the handle hand is completely

secondary to the tool-rest hand.

The first and second positions are equally good for scraping

operations; but the third position is practically never used

for scraping,

CUTTING

TO DEPTH

Many scraping operations and cutting to depth with the

parting toot can be done with one hand The chiset is

grasped firmly, with the index finger on top to press it dowr_

against the rest -- and is thrust straight into the work

Holding the toot thus leaves the other hand free to hold a

pattern, calipers, etc.. to check work progress

gouge,

\_ H

A SIZING CUT

Start the first cut about 2-in, from tailstock end -- then run

it toward the taitstock and off the end of the workpiece,

Next, start another cut 2-in. nearer the headstock -- and

run it also, toward tailstock, to merge with first cut.

Continue in this manner until 2- to4-in, from the headstock

end, then reverse the direction of tool travela nd work one or

two cuts in succession toward the headstock, and off this

end of the workpjece. Never start a cut directly at the end

--if the chisei Catchesthe end, itwill damage the workpiece.

Never take tong cuts while corners remain on the work, as

this tends to tear long slivers from the corners.

The first series of cuts should not be too deep it iS better to

partially reduce the work to a cylinder a(I along its length;

then start a second series of cuts to complete reducing it to

a cylinder. Once cylinder has been formed, step lathe up to

the next faster speed. Further reductions in size ca n now be

carried out by cutting as deeply as desired at any spot along

the work. At this stage, tong cuts, from the center off either

end, can also be taken, Roughing-off generally _scontinued

until the cylinder is approximately 1/8-in larger than the

desired finish size. Roundness can be tested by laying the

gouge on top of the work -- it will not ride up and down

when cylinder is perfectly round_

FtRST CUTS

MAKING SIZING CUTS

Sizing c_Jts are useful to establish approximate finish-size

diameters at various points along a workpiece. The work

can then be turned down to the diameters indicated -- and

be ready for finishing. Diameters for sizing cuts should be

planned to be about 1/8-in. greater than the desired finish

diameters.

Asizing cut is made with the parting tool. Hold the tool in

one hand, and use the other hand to hold an outside caliper

preset to the desired sizing-cut diameter. As the cut nears

completion, lower the chisel point more and more into a

scraping position. When the calipers slip over the workpiece

at the cut, the cut is finished.

SMOOTHING A CYLINDER

The fina! I/8-in. can be removed in two ways. Either use

the I *in. skew, working from center toward both ends and

taking lighter and lighter cuts until finished.

CUTTING A SHOULDER

A shoulder can be the side of asquare portion left in the

workpiece, the side of a turned section, or tr}e end of the

workpiece. Most shoulders are perpendicular to work axis;

but ashoulder can be at any angle desired.

_TOOL PARTING

PARK _ \

SKEW

20

First,mark position of the shoulder with a pencil held tothe

revolving workpiece. Then make a sizing cut with the

parting toolo placing this cut about 1/16-in. outside the

shoulder position, and cutting to within about 1/8-in. of the

depth desired for the area outside of the shoulder. If

shoulder is shallow, the toe of the skew can be used to make

the sizing cut; but do not go _ndeeper than 1/84n. with the

skew unless wider and wider vees are cut to provide

clearance for this tool.

WRONG RIGHT

BEVEL

Use the gouge to remove any waste stock outside of

shoulder -- and smooth this section, up to within t/8-in, of

the shoulder, in usual manner. Finishing of the shoulder,

unless it is more than lqn. high, is best done with the

1/2-in. skew. First, toe of skew is used to remove thin

shavings from the side of the shoulder -- down to finish

size, Hold skew so that bottom edge of bevel next to

shoulder will be very nearly parallel to side of shoulder

--but with cutting edge turned away at the top so that only

the extreme toe will do the cutting. If cutting edge is flat

against shoulder, the chisel will run. Start with handle low,

and raise handle to advance toe into the work. Cut down to

finished diameter of outside area; then cfean out the corner

byadvancing heel of the skew into italong the surface of the

outside area. Tilt the cutting edge, with handle raised up, so

that only the extreme heel does this cutting.

if shoulder is at end of work, the process is ca_ledsquaring

the end. In this case, reduce outer portion to a diameter

about 1/4-in. larger than too! center diameter, then inter

saw off the waste stock,

CUTTING VEES

Vee grooves can be cut with either the toe or heel of the

skew. When the toe is used, the cutting action is exactly the

same as in trimming a shoulder -- except that the skew is

tilted to cut at the required bevel. Light cuts she uid be taken

on first one side then the other, gradually enlarging the vee

to the required depth and width.

When the heel is used, the skew is rotated down into the

work, using the rest as a pivot. Otherwise, cutting position

and sequence of cuts is the same. As when using the toe, it

is important that cutting be done only by extreme end of

cutting edge_

If deep vees are planned, it is quicker to start them by

making a sizing cut at the center of each vee, Vees ca n also

be scraped with the spear point chisel or athree-sided file.

CUTTING BEADS

This requires considerable practice. First, make pencil lines

to locate the tops (highest points) of two or more adjoining

beads. Then make avee groove at the exact center between

two lines-- and down to the desired depth of the separation

between the beads, 8e carefuf not to make the groove too

wide or you will remove portions of the desired beads, The

sides of the two adjoining beads are now cut with the heel

of the skew -- preferably 1/2-in. size, unless beads are

quite large. Place skew at right angles with the work axis,

flat against surface and well up near the top, The extreme

heel should be just inside the pencil line that marks the top

of the bead. Now draw skew straight back while raising

handle slowly -- until edge of the heel at the pencil tine

starts to cut. As edge begins to cut, roll skew in the direction

of the vee -- so that the exact portion of the edge which

started cutting will travel in a 90 ° arc down to bottom of the

vee. Upon reaching bottom of the vee, the skew should be

on edge. Reverse the movements to cut side of the adjacent

bead.

SECOND

START POSITION

BEVEL

TANGENT

FINISH TO WORK

It is important that only the extreme heel should do the

cutting. This means that the bottom edge of the bevel next

to the vee must at all times be tangent to the arc of the bead

being formed.

Easier beads can be shaped with the spear point chisel. Use

pencil marks and sizing cuts as before. Push the chisel

straight into each cut and rotate it horizontally to round off

the adjacent edges, tt must be moved slightly in the

direction of rotation at the same time, to keep the point from

digging into the adjacent bead.

CUTTING COVES (CONCAVES)

This is the most difficult single cut to master ---- but or_e of

the most important in good wood turning. First, use pencil

marks to indicate the edges. Then, rough it out -.- to withis

about 1/8-in. of the desired finish surface --- by scrapir_g

with the gouge or round nose chisel. _f the cove is to be very

wide, sizing cuts can be made to plot the roughing out. Once

it is roughed out, the cove can be finished in two cuts----.- one

from each side to the bottom center.

At the start of either cut, gouge is held with handie high and

the two sides of blade held between the thumb and

forefinger of tool-rest hand, just behind the bevel_ Positio#

the fingers ready to roli the blade into cove. Hoid blade so

that bevel is at a 90 ° angle to the work axis, with point

touching the pencil line and pointed into work axis.

2_

SWING

TOOL

CUTTING

BEADS

wood-lathe

From this start, depress point slightly to start cut, then

continue to move point down in an arc toward the bottom

center of cove - at the same time rolling chisel uniformly so

that, at the end of the cut, it will be flat at bottom of the cove.

The object is to keep the extreme point of gouge doing the

cutting from start to finish. Reverse movements to cut the

opposite side,

Coves also can be scraped to finish, using the round nose

chisel or a rattail file -but these methods do not generally

produce perfectly curved COves,

MAKING LONG CONVEX CUTS

First turn work down to approximate size, using sizing cuts

(as required) to determine various diameters. Finish cut can

then be made with either skew or gouge.

If the skew is Used, the principles of the operation are the

same as those employed in cutting a bead -- except that

curve is longer and may be irregu ar. Use the extreme heel

throughout -_ start at onger end of curve (if curve is

irregular) and progress toward steeper end. If gouge is

used. make cut inthe same direction. Start with the handle

CUTTING COVES .......... '_

CHISEL INCLINED

IN DIRECTION OF CUT

well back of point -- swinging handle in the direction of tool

travel to overtake the point, if necessary, when the steep

part of the curve is reached. Object is to keep extreme point

during the cutting throughout -- with bevel as tangent to

curve as possible.

MAKING LONG TAPER CUTS

Long taper cuts are made like long convex cuts, with the

skew or gouge. However, the angle between the cutting

edge and handle is kept constant during the entire cut. The

handle is not swung around. Always cut downhill. Do not

cut too deeply at the center of the taper.

PLOTTING THE SHAPE

HOW TO HANDLE

Once the basic cuts have been mastered, you are ready to

turn out finished work,The first step is to prepare a plan for

the proposed turning. This can be laid out on a suitable

sheet of paper- and should be to full size, Next, preparethe

turning stock by squaring it up to the size of the largest

square or round section in you r plan. The stock can be cut to

the exact length of the proposed turning; but, in most cases,

itis best to leave the stock alittle long st one orboth ends to

allow for trimming.

DIAMETERS

i:'

_= _4%"_ \

SIZING CUTS

Mountthe stock inthe lathe, and rough it off to a maximum-

size cylinder. Now project your plan onto the turning by

marking the various critical dimensions along the length of

the spindle in penci!. These dimensions can be laid out with

SPINDLE TURNINGS

an ordinary ruler - or by using a template. Make the pencil

marks about 1/2-in_ long - they will then be visible when

the work is revolved under power, and can be quickly traced

around the spindle by touching each line with the pencil

After marking, usethe parting tool to make sizing cuts at all

of the important shoulders. When learning, you will find it

best to make many sizing cuts to accurately plot the various

diameters; but experienced workers can do with a few such

cuts at the important shoulders. Plan each sizing cut so that

it is in waste stock; and make each deep enough so that

there will be just enough wood left under the cut for the

finishing process. Once the sizing cuts have been run in,

rough-cut the excess wood with a gouge -- then proceed

with the finishing process by making the various types of

cuts required.

DUPLICATE TURNINGS

Identical turnings require great accuracy when plotting the

work and doing the various cuts. Many methods have been

devised to aid in perfecting the work.

Use of Patterns

Professional workers generally use a pattern, or layout

board. This is a thin piece of wood or cardboard on which is

drawn a full-size half section of the turning. The contour of

the finished surface is drawn first; then the diameters at

various critical points are drawn to scale as vertical lines

intersecting the contour tine. By placing the pattern against

22

the roughed-off cylinder, you can quickly mark the various

points of the critical diameters. To make each sizing cut, use

outside calipers and set these by actually measuring the

length of the vertical line on the pattern which represents

the diameter desired. Then make the sizing cut, down to the

proper diameter by using the calipers to determine when

the cut is finished. After making the sizing cuts, hang the

pattern behind the lathe where it will serve as a guide for

completion of the workpiece.

Using a Template and a Diameter Board

When many identical turnings are to be produced, it is a

convenience to have a prepared template. This can be made

of thin wood or cardboard -- and is cut on aband saw or

scroll saw to have the exact contour of the finished turning.

The number one finished turning can also be used as a

template. Attach the template to a board; then mount the

board behind the lathe, on hinges, so that the template can

be moved down to touch the workplace and allow you to

closely observe progress of your work.

USING A

TEMPLATE

USING A

DIAMETER BOARD

tf a great many turnings are being produced, a diameter

board will save the time used for resetting calipers, This is

simply athin board along the edge of which a number of

semi-circular cuts have been prepared to represent all the

various caliper settings required for measuring the sizing

cuts. Each semi-circular cut is held against the workpiece

instead of using the calipers.

USING DIAMETER SIZING GAUGE -24909

Production work can be further speeded by the use of the

Diameter Sizing Gauge -24909 to take the place of caliper

measurements, The positions of the ar ms are set to indicate

the various sizing cuts to be made. Each arm is of such a

length that it will drop all of the way down past the back

side of the workpiece when the wood under it has been cut

out to the desired depth of the sizing cut.

USING COPY CRAFTER - 24907

To make identical spindles for chairs, table tegs, or to

exactly copy an existing turning the Copy Crafter -24907 is

used, Follow the outline of original turning or template and

the cutting tool duplicates the workpiece. Spindle turnings

up to 2-1/2 inches in diameter, 36 inches long can be

duplicated from original turnings; up to 6 inches in diameter;

36 inches long from a template. Shallow faceplate turnings

up to 8 inches in diameter can be duplicated fi:om templates.

LONG SPINDLES

A long turning can be worked in short sections, with joints

arranged to be at shoulders where they will not be noticed.

Long thin work that is likely to whip while turning should be

supported at one or two places by a backstick. This is easy to

make. A Simple one consists of a short length of wood

mounted vertically in an extra tool rest, and notched so that

it can be used to support the spindle from behind. An

improved type -- which uses 2 roller skate wheels to form

the notch -- also is shown.

23

,e your craflsman wood-lathe

+ +!

Position the backstick against a pre-turned Portion near the

Center of the spindle, this port on being at least 1/8- n over

finish size to alloW for ater rernovat of any marks made

UpOn itl Operate lathe at aslower speed than norma

LubriCate the workpiece at point of contact with the

backstick; using beeswax (preferably), lard or grease. After

completing the turning, remov e the backstick and f n ish off

the Original: point of cOntact_ Sand off any slight burns

remaining on workp ece.

MISCELLANEOUS OPERATaONS

GUIDE BLOCKS FOR SCRAPING OPERATIONS

A guide block can be clamped to a chise_ to limit the depth of

cut and aid in the production of perfect cylinders, tapers and

facings on faceptate turnings, SCraping methods must be

used when the guide block is employed.

DRILLING

For cross drilling flat sided work, use a (metal-lathe) drilt

pad in the tailst ock and place a scrap board between the pad

and the work. For cross drilling round stock, use a (metal-

lathe} crotch center in the tailstock. Work in which it is

desired to drill random holes can be positioned as desired

on supporting blocks laid upon the lathe bed+ It can be held

by hand -- or can be supported from behind by adrill pad

mounted in the tailstock.

\

CROSS DRILLING

24

FACEPLATE & CHUCK TURNINGS

PLANNING THE WORK

Make a layout first, to provide a visual pattern to follow

while working the turning Patterns can be laid out in the

same manner as spindle patterns -- or templates can be

made which can be held against the work for visual

comparison. Circles to locate the various critical points (at

which the contours of the faceplate take distinct form) can

be quickly scribed on the rotating work by using the

dividers.

PLANNING VARIOUS CUTS

The circumference of a faceplate t urning is roughed-off and

finished in the same manner that a spindle is worked,

Practically all of the balance of the operations, however, are

done by using scraping methods. A few of the standard

contours which must often be turned are illustrated in the

accompanying sketch -- which also shows the proper

chisels for shaping these contours. Any roughing-out to

depth that must be done is generally accomplished with the

gouge held in the scraping position,

DEEP RECESSES

The first step is to remove as much wood as possible by

boring into the center with the largest wood bit available

This can be accomplished as illustrated. Be careful to

measure in advance the depth to which drill can be allowed

to go,

BORING TO DEPTH

Now remove the buik of the waste (to rough-out the desired

recess) by scraping w_ ththe roundnose chisel or the gouge

Remove up Towithin 1 iSdn. of finished size in this manner.

Finish off the inside circumference by scraping with the

spear-point chisel or skew, Smooth the bottom of the recess

by scraping it fiat with the ftatnose chisel.

Proper support must be provided at all times for the

scraping chisels Severat tool rest positions are shown in

the accompanying illustrations. Always endeavor to position

the part of the rest that supports the tool as close to the

working surface as possible.

The depth and squareness of the sides of the recess can be

quickly checked by holding one of the straight sided chisels

and acombination square as shown_

USE OF

TEMPLATE

SPEAR SKEW

so.u ROUNO OSE

NOSE

pLANNING

VARIOUS CUTS

ROUND NOSE

CHISEL SPEAR-POINT

CHISEL

MEASURING

DEPTH

25

PREPARING A PLUG CHUCK

A plug chuck is an auxiliary wood chuck mounted onto a

faceplate. The chuck can be any size in diameter -- should

be about 2-1/2_in. thick for stability -- and should be

provided with a 3/4- or 7/8-in. hole in the center for

receiving a tenon turned at the end of the workpiece. Once

made, such chucks are permanent useful fixtures for

turning bails, goblets, etc. In use, the wood stockfor turning

is turned between centers to produce a tenon at one end

which wil! be a driving fit in the hole of the chuck. When

mounted in the chuck, the workpiece is substantially

supported for any faceplate type of turning.

Stock for cylinders should be mounted on the screw center

or a small faceplate. The tailstock can be brought up to

support the work while the circumference is being turned

and finished. Afterwards. thetaitstock is backedoff and the

outer end of the cylinder is recessed, using methods already

described fox making deep recesses.

After making a recess at least 1/2 of the way through the

workpiece, and finishing this on the inside, remove the

workpiece from the lathe. Now mount ashort length of

softwood stock on the screw center and turn this down to

form a dowel that will be etight press (not driving) fit inside

the recessed end of the cylinder, Mount the cylinder on this

wooden chuck, and recess the unworked end deep enough

to form a perfect hole through the entire cylinder.

RECHUCKiNG

Rechucking is the general term used to describe any

additiona{ work mounting that is necessary to complete a

turning project, The method of working cylinders, and the

use of a plug chuck as already described, are typical

examples. Another good example is the rechucking of a

bowl,

/

t

The work is first mounted on a wood backing block secured

to the large faceplate, and is turned in the usual manner --

all except the back side (which is against the mounting

block). It is then removed from the mounting block_An

auxiliary chuck of softwood is now made in the same

manner that the cylinder chuck is made. This chuck must

have a turned recess properly sized to accommodate the rim

of thebowt in a tight press fit. When the bowl is mounted in

this chuck, the bottom can be cleaned off and slightly

recessed to complete the desired contours.

TURNING A RING

One method of turning a ring requires a spindle chuck. The

work stock is first mounted to a backing block held by the

large faceptate, and is turned to shape on the outer side.

The inside diameter of the ring is also shaped, all the way

through to the backing block. The work is then removed

from the backing block. A spindle chuck is now prepared so

that it will be a tight press fit inside the ring, and the ring is

reversed and mounted on this chuck. Thus mounted, the

remaining contours can be turned to shape.

26

\

/

Another method of turning a ring makes use of a recessed

chuck• The work stock is mounted on ascrew center and

one half of the ring is formed; but the ring is not cut away

from its center, The stock is then removed, and a recessed

chuck -- mounted on the large faceplate -- is prepared to

receive the ring in atight press fit. After being chucked, the

remaining face of the ring can be turned to the proper

contour, thus cutting away the center portion. In work of

this type take constant measurements -- or better still, use

a template -- to guard against over or under cutting,

1Z3

TURNING BALLS

Wooden bails of large size are first roughiyturned between

centers, using standard procedures, Smaller balls can be

mounted as faceplates on the small faceptate or screw

center. Lines drawn to indicate the center and ends of the

ball shape are heipful in plotting the curve. A template

should always be used for accurate visual observation of

the work progress.

If the ball is mounted as a faceplate turning, almost the

entire surface can be turned before it becomes necessary to

rechuck it. Rechucking can be accomplished in adeep cup

chuck which wil! hold the finished portion of the bail in a

tight press fit. Another method of rechucking is to use a

shallow cup chuck which wilt not support the bail alone, but

must be used in conjunction with the tailstock. When using

the shallow chuck, a wood block is fitted to the tailstock so

that the ball can revolve upon it. This block should be

lubricated with beeswax or grease• In using the shallow

chuck method, the ball is constantly shifted -- never more

than 1/8 turn -- and always with a definite system. Since

turning between centers makes the work a perfect sphere

across the grain, the ball must be mounted in the chuck so

that the first scraping cuts will round it up in the opposite

direction.

/,

f

\

DEEP CUP CHUCK

WOODBLOCK

SCREW

CENTER

B.B. TAILSTOCK

CENTER

SHALLOW CUP CHUCK

TURNED BOXES

Turned boxes involve deep recessing together with a

special system of working the lid and body of the box

together as one unit. The inside of the lid is turned first.

Next, the inside of the body is turned. Acareful check must

be made when turning the lip of the body portion so that the

lid will be a tight press fit. The lid is then pressed onto the

body anc_ the outer circumference and face of the tid,

together with the outer circumference of the body, are

turned atl at one time. This insures accurate matching of

the two pieces. After the work is complete, the tight fit of the

lid can be relieved by sanding the lip of the body.

LtD .... "_

L i ii

BACKING BLOCK

FAC_E __s _ _:

PLATE

i--

[..L.

27

your craftsman woodqathe

very

isegment pieces for the

sides, Bow ( or 8 pieces if desired. To

make the 12-piece bowl, a board about 7/Bx3x30 in. is cut

into pieces about 2-t !2-in, long, the saw blade being tiffed

15°and the board being turned alternately face up and face

down to make the successive cuts. These 12 pieces are

glued together and clamped by wrapping the assembh/with

wire. When dry, the rim thus formed is glued to atemporary

circular backing which _s mounted on the large faceplate. Arecess of the largest possible dia meter, and about 3/4-in.

deep, is turned in the open end of the rim. The rim is

removed from the lathe, and stock for the bottom is

mounted in its palce on a second faceplate. This is turned to

size -- and a rim about 1/8-in. deep is turned to exactly fit

the recess prepared in the rim. The rim is then fitted over

the bottom and glued, making a drum shape with a

faceplate at each end.This dr um is cut completely in two at

a point about 3/4-in. above the bottom -- completing the

cut with a hand saw. Both parts of the cut surface ere faced

off square and smootn -- then reglued together, breaking

the joints exactly half and half. The cutting and regluing

process is repeated with a section about 1-1/4-in. wide.

After this, the temporary backing block is cut off, leaving the

bowl as shown in me finat illustration.

From this point on the work is simply a matter of turning

down the bowl to any desired shape.

HOW TO TURN

TYPES OF PLASTICS

There are two general groups of plastics. The first includes

all phenol plastics moulded under heat and pressure.

Bakelite and Formica are examples. In the second are all

catalyst Setting plastics of various bases sold under such

trade names as Lucite, Catalin, Cast Bakelite, Marblette.

Tenite and Trafford. Those in the second group are most

generally used for craftwork. They are easyto turn, being a

little harder than wood but much softer than any of the soft

metals.

MOUNTING THE WORK

Rods can be mounted between centers, using wood

mounting centers When the spur center is used. slots

should be sawed across the work,

PLASTICS

USE OF WOOD TURNING CHISELS

Standard wood turning chisels are excellent for turning

plastics by means of scrap=rigmethods, The toot rest should

be slightly below center and the chisel handle should be

held a little higher than the cutting edge to give a negative

rake. Scraping tools should be used. The area contacted by

the tool should be kept toe minimum. A large contact area,

such as the full edge of the spear-point chisel, wilt cause

chatter and probable chipping,

Properly worked, the chip comes off in a continuous ribbon,

In cold weather, plastic may become brittle and should be

tempered in warm water for about ten minutes before

turning.

USE OF FORMED TOOLS FOR PRODUCTION

AND SIMILAR OPERATIONS

\

28

When a number of identical pieces are to be produced, all

having a distinctive surface pattern, preformed tools will

speed the work and assure uniformity_ Patterns like those

illustrated can be created by grinding thin (_020 to .010)

gauge aluminum strips. A holder, like the one shown, can

then be used to support any one of your prepared strips

--and guide it against the workpiece.

POLISHING PLASTICS

Start with sanding. First use 150-grit dry paper to remove

tool mar_s, then finish off with 150-grit and 400-grit

papers, in succession, used wet. Press lightly to avoid

overheat ing and marring of the work. Buffing gives the final

polish, using the polishing compounds commonly supplied

for this p_rpose. Do not press too ha rd or hold wheel at one

spot too long -- keep moving around -- otherwise the

plastic might become heat marked.

SANDBNG, BUFFBNG AND POLISHING

USING THE LATHE TO SAND TURNINGS

Turnings should be sanded with the lathe running in

second towest speed, Alarge sheet of sandpaper is useful

for smoothing cylinders. All other sanding operations are

done with a narrow strip of abrasive paper. The best

finishing grit is 3/0 for softwoods, 4/0 for hardwoods,

SANDPAPER

PER

COVES

WOOD

FIBERS

SANDPAPER

29

Worn 2/0 paper is often used. and is the equivalent of 3/0

or 4/0 new paper.

The application of the sandpaper strip is shown in the

illustrations, Care must be exercised in order to prevent

dubbing the corners of beads, shoulders, etc.

USE OF SANDING DISCS

Afully adjustable sanding table 9-24922 adds to the scope

and convenience of sanding operations. Sanding is always

done on the down-traveling side of the wheel; working on

the other s_de would kick the work upwards. Either second

or third speed can be used.

The sanding disc is a metal plato with a threaded shank

which fits the end of the lathe spindle. Abrasive paper is

glued to the machined surface of the plate by means of a

quick-drying cement supplied for this purpose, Abrasive

discs can be purchased or cut from the standard sizes of

abrasive paper,

/

your craftsman wood-lathe

The standard sanding drums are commonly made with a

•e ly rubber cylinders threaded hole to fit the grinding wheel arbor. To guard

against loosening of the tapered shank while the drum is in

urned on the lathe, and covered with operation, it is advisable to support the free end, using

either a ba|lbearing or plain 60 ° center in the tailstock,

glued or tacked in place, do satisfactory

=rage that special sizes, tapers. USE OF WOOD CHUCKS FOR SANDING

Quick-acting chucks can be very useful for sanding opera-

tions on duplicate production parts. The chuck is made

slightly oversize, and a piece of rubber hose (for small partS)

is inserted in the recess to grip the workpieces. Workpieces

(

The drum is used mainly for sanding the edges of curved

work. The squareness of the edge of the work can be best

retained by using a simple form of vertical fence, as shown.

can be changed without stopping the lathe.

X

ill rllll

maintenance

iJ JJ [LJH _ _rJ_ ...........

WIRING DIAGRAM

WHITE WHITE

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH

"'OFF" AND REMOVE PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE

OUTLET BEFORE MAINTAINING OR LUBRICATING

YOUR LATHE.

Apply a coat of automobile-type wax to the lathe bed to help

the tool rest and tailstock move freely.

Have power cord replaced if it becomes worn or frayed_

MOTOR

OUTLET

SWITCH

BLACK GREEN

2-

POWER

CORD

lubrication

Periodically lubricate the ram in the tailstock with No. 20

or No. 30 engine oil.

MOTOR MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION

1. Thebearings, in both end shields of the motor, have been

lubricated at the factory with correct lubricant. No other

part of the motor requires lubrication.

2. Re-lubricate motor bearings in accordance with the

instructions on the nameplate, Be sure to wipe off dirt or

grit if present around oil hole caps to prevent any'

possibility of foreign material contaminating the oil

wicks that suppiy the bearings with oil. Use a good grade

of medium weight mineral oil. such as automobile

engine oi! SAE 20:

i

3. If disassembly of the: motor is necessary, it should be

returned to your nearest Sears retail or mail-order store

in order to prevent voiding the guarantee,

NOTE: The speed of this motor cannot be regulated or

changed.

4. Every effort should be made to prevent foreign material

from entering the motor, When operated under condi-

tions likely to permit accumulations of dust, dirt, or

waste within the motor, a visual inspection should be

made at frequent intervals. Accumulations of dry dust

can usually be blown out successfully.

NOTE: Motors used on wood-working tools are particu-

larly susceptible to the accumulation of sawdust and

wood chips and should be blown out or "vacuumed"

frequently to prevent interference with normal motor

ventilation and proper operation of the centrifugally.

operated starting switch.

3O

Sears recommends the following accessories

ITEM CAT. NO. ITEM CAT, NO.

Work Bench .......................................... See Catalog

Motor Pulley (Four Step) 1/2" Bore ......... See Catalog

Motor Pulley (Four Step) 5/8" Bore .......... See Catalog

Drill Chuck 1/2" Capacity with

No. 1 MT. Shank .............................. See Catalog

Screw Center with No. 1 M.T. Shank ....... See Catalog

Ball Bearing Center with

No. 1 M.T. Shank ............................... See Catalog

60° Center with No. 1 M.T. Shank ........... See Catalog

Face Plate, 4" Dia. with 3/4"-!6 Thread

9 holes ...................................................... 9-2489

9" Dia. Sanding Disc only with 3/4"-16

Thread .................................................... 9-24906

Sanding Table ............................................. 9-24922

Turning Tools ........................................ See Catalog

Draw Bolt with 1/4"-20 Threads ............... See Catalog

Power Tool Know How Handbook ................. 9-29117

Bowl Turning Tool Rest ................................ 9-24903

Face Plate 6" with 3/4"-16 Thread

6 holes .................................................... 9-24904

Copy Crafter ................................................ 9-24907

Speed Reducer ..................................... See Catalog

Face Plate 4" dia. with 3/4"-16 Thread

Cast Iron, 6 holes ............................... See Catalog

Diameter Sizing Gauge ................................. 9-24909

Sears may recommend other accessories not listed in

the manual. See your nearest Sears store or catalog

department for other accessories. Do not use any

accessory unless you have received and read com-

plete instructions for its use.

trouble shooting

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH "'OFF"

AND REMOVE PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE OUTLET BE-

FORE TROUBLE SHOOTING.

TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

TROUBLE

Motor will not run.

PROBABLE CAUSE

1. Defective On-Off switch,

Defective switch cord.

Defective switch box receptacle.

2, Motor protector Open,

(only if your motor is

equipped with an

overload protector).

3, Burned out motor

REMEDY

1, Replace defective parts before using Lathe

again.

2, Reset protector when motor has cooled,

3. Consult Sears Service. Any attempt to repair this

motor may create a HAZARD unless repair is

done by a qualified service technician. Repair

service is available at your nearest Sears Store,

Lathe slows down 1, V-belt too loose 1. Adjust belt tension, see Assembly Section.

when turning

Tailstock rocks I, Brass adjusting screw is too I. Adjust screw. See Section, "Getting To Know

back and forth loose. Your Lathe".

excessively.

Headstock loose 1. Setscrew not tight, l, Tighten setscrew. See Section, "Getting To

on bed, Know Your Lathe",

Wood burns at 1, Cup center too tight or not !. Back off tailstock ran, and iubricate

taiistock end. lubricated, cup center. See Basic Lathe Operation

Section, "Spindte Turr_ing,"

31

, PROBABLE CAUSE

1. Motor.

. ' ' .,

Motor fails to develop 1. Circuit overloaded with

fu(_l power. NOTE; lights appliances and

LOW VOLTAGE: Power other motors.

output of motor

:decreases rapidly wdh 2. Undersize wires or c_rcud

decrease _n vottage at too long

:-motor terminals. For

example a reduction of 3. Genera[ overloading of

i0% in voltage Causes power company

a reduction of 19% in facilities.

maxtmum power output

of which the motor is

capable, and a reduction

of 20% m voltage causes

areduction of 36% m

maximum power output.)

t Low voltage will not

or falls to come up trip relay.

2 Windings burned out

or open.

3: Starting relay not

operating

1. Motor overloaded.

: 2, improper cooling, (Air

: circulation restr cted

: through factor due to

' sawdust, accumulating

inside of motor).

' ' ." .1 Burned switch contacts

Start ng switch in "(due tO extended

motor will not ' hold-in periods caused

operate.

Motor stalls

(resulting m blown

fuses or tripped

circuit breakers).

Frequent opening of

fuses or circuit

breakers.

i

i ,

by low line voltage, etc.)

Shorted capamtor

Loose or broken

connections.

1. Starting sw_tch not

operating

2. Voltage too low to permit

motoT to reach operating

speed.

3. Fuses or circuit breakers

do not have sufficient

capacity.

1. Motor overloaded.

2. Fuses or circuit breakers

do not have sufficient

capacity.

3. Starting sw_tch not

operating (motor does

not reach speed).

REMEDY

t. Have motor checked by qualified service

technician. Repair serwce is available at

your,nearest Sears store.

I. Do not use other appliances or motors on

same circuit when using the lathe.

2. Increase w_re sizes, or reduce length of wiring

See "Motor Specifications and Electnca_

Requirements" section,

3, Request a voltage check from the power

company.

1. Request voltage check from the power company

2 Have motor repaired or replaced

3. Have relay replaced.

1. Take shallower cuts.

2. Clean out sawdust to provide normal air

circulation through motor.

See "Maintenance and Lubrication" section.

1. Have switch replaced and request a voltage check

from the power company.

2. Have capacitor tested and replace =f defechve

3 Have wiring checked and repaired.

1. Have swttch replaced

2. Request voltage check from the power company.

3 Install proper s_ze fuses or circuit breakers

1. Take shallower cuts.

2. install proper size fuses or circuit breakers.

3. Have switch replaced.

32

rep=ir pans

CRAFTSMAN "_2-iNCH WOOD LATHE, MODEL 113,228162

NOTE:

ANY ATTEMPT TO REPAIR THIS MOTOR

MAY CREATE A HAZARD UNLESS

REPAIR IS DONE BY QUAUFIED

SERVICE TECHNICIAN.

REPAIR SERVICE IS AVAILABLE

AT YOUR NEAREST SEARS STORE.

t2

Figure I

MOTOR PART NO. 70055

Key Part

No. No. Description

I 6030(_ Screw. 8-32 x3/8, Thread

Cutting, Slotted, Serrated

Hd.

2 64088 Cover. Terminal

3 64258 Cord with Plug

MOTOR CONNECTIONS

WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH

"OFF" AND REMOVE PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE

OUTLET BEFORE PROCEEDING.

1. Open motor connector box cover located on left end of

motor (viewed from rear of saw) using a flat blade

screwdriver,

2. Remove GREEN SCREW and iockwasher and insert

screw through round metal terminal on _he end of the

GREEN wire of power cord with leckvvasher between

terminal and motor frame. {See iHus,)

3. ReinsertGREEN SCREW in the threaded hole Tighten

securely

4. Insert terminal end of WHITE wire on spade _erminat

r'narked T4 on the motor Push terminal firmly until

seated,

5Insert terminai end of BLACK wire on spade terminal

marked T1 on the motor. Push terminal firmly until

seated.

6. Close motor connector box being surethat power cord is

seated in the largest strain retief groove, and tighten box

cover screws.

GREEN

INTERNAL

LOCKWASHER

BLACK WIRE TO

TERMINAL TI

m

TERMINAL

GREEN WIRE

-TO GREEN SCREW

STRAIN RELIEF

WIRE TO

TERMINAL T4

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