2892 SEPINOV_EMT Logo_gb EMT 10 1416918709 SEPINOV TDS
User Manual: EMT-10
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SEPINOV™ EMT 10 New “2-in-1” powder polymer • “2-in-1” powder polymer characterized by: excellent emulsifying–stabilizing capability constant thickening capability over a wide pH range (3 - 10) • Emulsifying and stabilizing capability at low polymer content • Versatility of use: cold or hot, and without neutralization • Novel chemical structure compatible with specific active ingredients (AHA, DHA, etc.) • Supple texture, easy to pick up (patent pending) 1 CONTENTS 1 – The advantages of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 page 3 2 – Emulsifying-stabilizing capability page 4 2.1 – Capability to emulsify-stabilize independently of the final viscosity 2.2 – Capability to emulsify all types of oil phase 2.3 – Capability to emulsify large quantities of oil 3 – Thickening-stabilizing capability page 8 3.1 – Capability to thicken over a wide pH range 3.2 – Capability to produce an aqueous gel • Without electrolytes • In the presence of electrolytes 3.3 – Capability to thicken in the presence of specific active ingredients • glycolic acid • VCPMg • DHA 3.4 – Capability to thicken in the presence of solvents 4 – Texture analysis profile page 15 5 – Formulation advice page 17 5.1 – Procedure 5.2 – Content 5.3 – Storage conditions 6 – TECHNICAL DATA page15 6.1 – Toxicological data 6.2 – Analytical data 6.3 – Regulatory data 7 – APPLICATIONS page 21 2 1 – THE ADVANTAGES OF SEPINOV™ EMT 10 SEPINOV™ EMT 10 belongs to a new range of powder polymer which combines: excellent emulsifying-stabilizing properties with good thickening capability over a wide pH range “2-in-1” powder polymer, high versatility and performance in formulation! The novel structure of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (patent pending) gives it all the following properties: Excellent emulsifying-stabilizing capability in cream -gels: independent of the final viscosity with high % of oil phase (up to 50%) compatible with all types of oil phase Stabilizing effect at very low polymer content in emulsions, but also in cream-gels at moderate viscosity (20,000 mPas) Constant thickening capability over a wide pH range (3 to 10) Novel chemical structure (pre-neutralized by sodium salts) giving full compatibility with specific active ingredients at all pH values (DHA, AHA, etc.) Great versatility in use: pre-neutralized powder, very easily dispersible in the oil phase or in the aqueous phase, cold or hot. Supple texture, easy to pick up Production of translucent gel under restrictive conditions: in the absence of an oil phase and in the presence of solvent and/or Oramix™ CG110. 3 2 – EMULSIFYING-STABILIZING CAPABILITY SEPINOV™ EMT 10 disperses and stabilizes oil phases in aqueous media: without neutralization without addition of other emulsifiers without calculation of HLB without a heating step. Very stable cream-gels with a perfectly smooth and uniform appearance are obtained very easily. The performance of the inherent “emulsifying–stabilizing” properties of a polymer can be measured by the following 3 distinct criteria: the capability to emulsify-stabilize a given % of oil phase, without thickening beyond 20,000 mPas the capability to emulsify-stabilize all types of polar or nonpolar oil phase the capability to emulsify-stabilize a large quantity of oil phase 2.1 – Capability to emulsify–stabilize in cream-gels at moderate viscosities SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is distinguished by its excellent emulsifying–stabilizing properties, independent of the final viscosity of the cream-gel ; it can thus be used to formulate cream-gels of variable viscosities: at 50,000 mPas or at more than 100,000 mPas but also at moderate viscosity (20,000 mPas), which is more difficult to accomplish in the present powder polymers. 2.1.1 The intrinsic emulsifying–stabilizing performance of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is measured by determination of the minimum powder content necessary to stabilize a given quantity of oil phase. A very simple test reveals the unique character of SEPINOV™ EMT 10. Table 1: Stabilization of 15% Lanol™ 1688 (Cetearyl ethylhexanoate) 4 Minimum powder content necessary for the stabilization of 15% Lanol™ 1688 SEPINOV™ EMT 10 Viscosity of the creamgel (mPa.s) stable for more than 3 months at 40°C and 1 month at 50°C 20,000 0 .6 0 % 1% 90,000 Polymer A 0 .7 0 % Polymer B 50,000 Formulas tested: LANOL™ 1688 (Cetearyl ethylhexanoate) 15 %/Polymer x%/water qs 100%, spontaneous pH (6-7). Viscosities measured with a Brookfield LVT 6 rpm. Polymer A : Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer Polymer B : Acrylates/C10 – 30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.6% SEPINOV™ EMT 10 “emulsifies-stabilizes” 15% Lanol™ 1688 in a cream-gel at moderate viscosity (20,000 mPas) at all pH values. Notes: 1°Powder polymers A and B, in the presence of 15% Lanol 1688, do not allow stable cream-gels at a viscosity of 20,000 mPas to be obtained. Stabilization is possible only in conjunction with high viscosity (50,000 and 90 000 mPas), and only at a pH greater than 6 in the case of powder B. 2° The emulsifying-stabilizing performance of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 at low content (0.6%) in cream-gels at moderate viscosity (around 20,000 mPas) has also been tested with 15% of various types of oil phase. SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is the commercially-available powder polymer showing the best “emulsifying–stabilizing” properties in cream-gels formulated: - at moderate viscosities (20,000 mPas) - at all pH values (3 to 10) 5 2.2 – Capability to emulsify-stabilize all types of oil phase The “emulsifying–stabilizing” capability of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 works on oil phases of very different types (refer to table 2). All the cream-gels obtained are very stable under extreme conditions: 3 months at 45°C. Table 2: Emulsifying capability of SEPINOV™ EMT10 with regard to 15% of different oil phases in gel–creams at 20,000 and 100,000 mPas. Cream-gel composition SEPINOV™ EMT x% + Oil phase 15% + Water qs 100% spontaneous pH Oil phase tested Vegetable oils Silicone oils Mineral oils Esters % SEPINOV™ EMT 10 2% 2% 2% 2% Stable Stable Stable Stable % SEPINOV™ EMT 10 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% Viscosity of the cream-gel 20,000 mPa.s (Brookfield LVT V6) Stable Stable Stable Stable Viscosity of the cream-gel > 100,000 mPa.s (Brookfield LVT V6) Stability: 3 months at 45°C Stability: 3 months at 45°C SEPINOV™ EMT shows “emulsifying–stabilizing” properties with all types of oil phase and independently of the final viscosity of the cream-gels. 6 2.3 – Capability to emulsify-stabilize large quantities of oils SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is capable of stabilizing up to 50% of polar or nonpolar oil phase. Graph 3: Determination of the maximum concentration of oil phase incorporable in an aqueous gel at 100,000 mPas formulated at spontaneous pH (6-7) and at acidic pH (3). P owder C 20% 0% P owder B 10% pH 3 0% P owder A pH i (6-7) 20% S epinov EMT 10 0% 50% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% % caprylic capric triglycerides Formulas tested: Caprylic capric triglycerides x%/polymer content qs 100,000 mPas, water qs 100%, spontaneous pHi (6-7). Polymer A : Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer Polymer B : Acrylates/C10 – 30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer Polymer C : Sodium polyacrylate At all acidic or alkaline pH values, SEPINOV EMT shows much higher emulsifying-stabilizing capability than commercially-available powders A, B and C, which under the same conditions (cream-gel at 100,000 mPas) cannot incorporate more than 10 to 20% of caprylic capric triglycerides. Powders B and C cannot be used at acidic pH 3. SEPINOV EMT at 2% in a cream-gel at 100,000 mPas emulsifies-stabilizes a high % of different types of oil phase over a wide pH range: - 50% for caprylic capric triglycerides - 40% for paraffin oil or cetearyl isononanoate - 40% for cetearyl isonanoate 7 3 – THICKENING CAPABILITY SEPINOV™ EMT 10 stabilizes and regulates the viscosity of O/W emulsions, independently of the chosen pH and the emulsifier used. The thickening capability of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is characterized by its capability to thicken easily: • • • • over a wide pH range (3-10) an aqueous gel at 100,000 mPas in the presence of specific active ingredients in the presence of solvents. 3-1 – Capability to thicken over a wide pH range • Aqueous gel - without electrolytes Between pH 3 and pH 10 the viscosity developed by SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is constant, as illustrated by the graph below. Graph 4: Viscosity of aqueous gels containing 2% SEPINOV™ EMT according to pH Viscosity against pH - Sepinov EMT 10 100 000 Viscosity (mPa.s) 80 000 60 000 40 000 20 000 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 pH Formulas tested: SEPINOV™ EMT 10 2%/water qs 100, pH adjusted with lactic acid or triethanolamine. Viscosities measured with a Brookfield LVT 6 rpm An aqueous gel containing 2% SEPINOV™ EMT 10 shows constant viscosity over a wide pH range (3 to 10). 8 SEPINOV™ EMT 10 reduces the risks of changes in the viscosity of a formula over time related to potential pH changes. 3.2 – Capability to produce aqueous gels at 50,000 and 100,000 mPas without electrolytes Graph 5 Viscosity (mPas) of aqueous gels obtained according to the % of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 powder used at initial pH. Viscosity (mPa.s) Viscosity against polymer content in water Sepinov EMT 10 160 000 140 000 120 000 100 000 80 000 60 000 40 000 20 000 0 0 0,5 1 1,5 2 2,5 3 3,5 % powder SEPINOV™ EMT at 2% in water gives an aqueous gel at approximately 100,000 mPas. SEPINOV™ EMT at 1% in water gives an aqueous gel at approximately 50,000 mPas. % powder necessary Graph 6: Comparison of the thickening capacities of Sepinov EMT 10, SIMUGEL™ NS and SEPIGEL™ 305 at pHi for the production of aqueous gels at 50,000 and 100,000 mPas 4,5 4 3,5 3 2,5 2 1,5 1 0,5 0 4.5% 3.2 % 2.0% 2.3% 2.0% 1.0% SEPIGEL 305 SEPINOV EMT 10 SIMULGEL NS 9 Gel 100,000mPas Gel 50,000 mPas Aqueous gel in the presence of electrolytes SEPINOV™ EMT is compatible with formulas containing electrolytes. The thickening capability of SEPINOV™ EMT may be reduced in a medium rich in electrolytes; for example, in the presence of NaCl, it is recommended that: - the levels of SEPINOV™ EMT used should be increased in order to attain the desired viscosities (while remaining at contents compatible with a good cosmetic feel) - it should be combined with other polymers to obtain a synergistic effect, such as xanthan gum or hydroxyethyl cellulose. In the presence of large quantities of electrolytes (0.6% NaCl), the use of SEPIPLUS™ 265 and 400 is preferable, since their chemical structures are better suited to these extreme formulation conditions. Graph 7 Viscosity of aqueous gels containing 0.4% NaCl as a function of polymer content Viscosity (mPa.s) Viscosity against polymer content in 0.4% NaCl 140 000 120 000 100 000 80 000 60 000 40 000 20 000 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 % Powder an aqueous gel at 50,000 mPas is obtained in the presence of 0.4% NaCl with 3% SEPINOV™ EMT 10 5.3% SEPIGEL™ 305 10 3.3 – Capability to thicken in the presence of specific active ingredients Given the versatility of the thickening capability of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 with regard to pH, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can be used to thicken and stabilize formulas containing different cosmetic active ingredients at both acidic and neutral pH. 3.3 1-Formulation in the presence of glycolic acid at pH 3 Graph 7 Viscosity of aqueous gels containing 3% glycolic acid at pH 3 SEPINOVTM EMT 10 and glycolic acid 140 000 Viscosity (mPas) 120 000 100 000 80 000 60 000 40 000 20 000 0 2 2,5 3 3,5 TM % SEPINOV 4 4,5 5 EMT 10 Formulas tested: Glycolic acid 3%, SEPINOV ™ x%/water qs 100%. pH adjusted with NaOH, viscosities measured with Brookfield LVT 6 rpm 3% of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is necessary to produce an aqueous gel at 50,000 mPas in the presence of 3% glycolic acid at pH 3 11 3.3.2 Formulation in the presence of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (VCPMg) at pH 7.5 SEPINOV™ EMT 10 has equally good performance in the development of formulas at neutral pH. Graph 8 Viscosity of aqueous gels containing 3% VCPMG at pH 7.5 SEPINOVTM and VCPMg Viscosity (mPas) 120 000 100 000 80 000 60 000 40 000 20 000 0 1 1,5 2 2,5 3 % SEPINOV 3,5 TM 4 4,5 5 EMT 10 Formulas tested: VCPMg 3%, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 x%/water qsp 100%. pH adjusted with NaOH, viscosities measured with Brookfield LVT 6 rpm 3.5% SEPINOV™ EM 10 is necessary to produce an aqueous gel at 50,000 mPas in the presence of 3% VCPMg (at pH 7.5) 3.3 3-Formulation in the presence of DHA SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is a novel powder polymer, pre-neutralized by sodium salts, giving good compatibility with DHA (formulated at acidic pH and often incompatible with ammonium salts). 12 3.4 – Capability to thicken in the presence of solvents SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can be used to thicken in the presence of different types of solvent (ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, etc.). It is also possible to produce anhydrous gels with 100% glycerine or propylene glycol. Principle: Production of an aqueous gel at 100,000 mPas with 2% SEPINOV™ EMT 10 followed by slow incorporation of 50% of solvent at pHi into the gel Graph 8: Viscosities obtained in the presence of 50% solvent at spontaneous pH or at acidic pH Compatibility with solvents TM SEPINOV 175 000 EMT 10 160,000 140,000 Viscosity (mPas) 150 000 130,000 125 000 100 000 75 000 70,000 50 000 25 000 0 Ethanol 95° Glycerine Propylene glycol Butylene glycol Thanks to its capability to thicken solvent media and its texture-generating properties, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is an essential formulation partner for the formulation of products containing alcohol or glycol compounds, such as: slimming gels “heavy legs” gels serums for oily skin hair styling-fixing gels massage gels 13 3.5 – Transparent formulations Under very particular conditions SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can give gels, without an oil phase, which are transparent and have a pleasant texture on application. The transparent appearance of these gels, without oil phase, is improved by the addition of glycols (propylene glycol, glycerine or ethanol) and/or ORAMIX™ CG 110 (Caprylyl/Capryl glucoside) at less than 1%. For example, in the formulation F 6839 “Serum for oily skin – without oil phase”, the ethanol enabled formulation of a translucent gel with a very smooth feel on application. 14 4 – SEPINOV™ EMT 10 – Texture analysis profile Comparative analysis of the texture analysis profile of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 with that of product A (Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer) reveals the specific features of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 : - much more supple texture - easier to pick up even at high viscosity (> 50,000 mPas). Graph 7: Comparison of texture profiles of 50,000 mPas cream-gels Texture profile produced using a TEC™ texture analyzer (LAMY) after application of compression-traction cycles. F2 SEPINOV EMT10 Produit A - F1 A2 A1 Formulas tested: LANOL™ 1688 15%/Polymer qs 50,000 mPas/water qs 100%, Product A: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer 15 Analysis of these texture profiles highlights the remarkable characteristics of SEPINOV™ EMT 10: SEPINOV™ EMT 10 Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP copolymer Conclusion Hardness index = maximum compression force (N) 0.31 0.45 SEPINOV™ EMT 10 for the production of supple cream-gel Ease of pick-up = adhesion energy (mJ) 1.65 0.8 SEPINOV™ EMT 10 for the production of cream-gel easy to pick up As for all the SIMULGEL™ – SEPIGEL™ - SEPIPLUS™ latexes, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is characterized in terms of texture by the production of supple cream-gels, easy to pick up with good adhesion properties. SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is thus distinguished from other available polymers which give, for high-viscosity cream-gels, very thick gels, often difficult to pick up. 16 5 – FORMULATION ADVICE 5.1 – Use SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is very easy to use, without restrictions, in formulation both in the laboratory and at the industrial stage. General *SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is a powder polymer pre neutralized, very easy to use, without any neutralization. *To adjust the final pH of any type of formula, the use of weak acids and bases is advised in order to maintain full control of this step. *SEPINOV™ EMT 10 resists shear and high temperatures (up to 80°C) without problems. These properties provide great freedom in the use of the product. Emulsions As for all ingredients in powder form, it is preferable to add SEPINOV™ EMT 10 at the beginning of the process. For the production of emulsions it is thus advisable to disperse the SEPINOV™ EMT in one of the two phases before emulsification. Cream-gels SEPINOV™ EMT 10 powder does not need neutralization and can be dispersed easily: - in either the aqueous phase or the oil phase - cold or hot. Recommended apparatus for cream-gels - Deflocculator turbine Any procedure can be used, although preference should be given to stirring modes optimized for powder dispersion, such as deflocculator turbines (photo below). 17 - Low-shear turbine (anchor type) Cream-gels can be produced with a low-shear anchor-type turbine (photo below). Under these conditions, we advise that you proceed as follows: “disperse” SEPINOV™ EMT 10 in the oil phase add the aqueous phase to the oil phase. Note: The stability and the viscosity of cream-gels are fully reproducible whatever procedure and apparatus are chosen. However, the microscopic appearance may show different levels of fineness depending on the shear applied; cream-gels obtained with the deflocculator have a more uniform and finer appearance than those obtained with an anchor system. 5.2 – Polymer content In emulsions, when SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is used as thickener-stabilizer, it can be used from 0.2 to 2% depending on the nature of the other ingredients of the formula. In cream-gels, when SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is used as the sole stabilizer of the formula, it can be used from 0.4 to 3% depending on the nature of the other ingredients of the formula. 18 6 – TECHNICAL DATA 6.1 – Toxicological data The good tolerance of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 has been assessed according to the customary toxicological tests. HET-CAM SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 5% in water, was tested according to the HET-CAM technique (method published in the French official journal on 26/12/1996). → Under these conditions, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is classified as non-irritant with a score = 0 (SEPPIC expert report HET-CAM 2715). RBCA Haemolyzing capability The haemolyzing capability of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 with regard to red blood cells was assessed according to the technique published in INVITTOX no. 37. The test consists in determining from a dose-response curve the concentration of product that causes lysis of 50% of red blood cells. This value is L. In the case of SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 5%, L > 1000 µl: SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is classified as non-haemolyzing Denaturing capability Assessment of the denaturing capability consists in measuring the degree of denaturation of oxyhaemoglobin. This effect, secondary to haemolysis, provides an indication of the alteration of intracellular proteins. SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 5%, was assessed on this criterion according to the INVITTOX 37 recommendations. The denaturation index obtained was 0%; consequently SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is considered to be non-denaturing. →Tested according to the RBCA technique, SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 5%, is classified as non-irritant with an L/D ratio > 100 (SEPPIC expert report RBCA 1008). Patch test SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 2.2% in water, was tested in an occlusive patch test for 48 hours on 20 healthy volunteers. → Tested under these conditions, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is classified as non-irritant (DERMSCAN expert report patch test 1040587 LCE04049 a/f confidential). Sensitization SEPINOV™ EMT 10, was tested at 5.00% on a panel of 50 healthy volunteers according to the MARZULLI-MAIBACH protocol. SEPINOV™ EMT 10is considered nonirritant and non-sensitizing (expert report DERMSCAN 05E078 LCE04051). 19 Ames test According to the Ames test, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is considered to be non-mutagenic (LEMI expert report 2004-DTT662-4 FINAL LCE04036 f/a confidential). The SEPINOV™ EMT 10 safety data sheet must be consulted before any handling. 6.2 – Analytical data 20°C Aspect pH at 1.5% in water Viscosity at 1.5% in water RESULTS METHOD White powder Visual 5.0 – 6.5 NFT 73 206 70 000 - 100 000 mPas Dry matter Brookfield RVT, M4, 5rpm > 90 % 1 g, Thermobalance, 150°C for 60 minutes RESULTS IR Spectrum Characteristics Identification* Note: The values below are given for guidance only; the analysis certificate supplied with each batch is sole guarantee of the product specifications. 20 6.3 – Regulatory data INCI name : Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyl dimethyl Taurate Copolymer CAS no. : 111286-86-3 EINECS/ELINCS no. : not applicable 6.4 – Storage conditions Hygroscopic powder to be kept away from moisture. 7 - APPLICATIONS SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is an essential formulation partner for cosmetics. It can be used easily in the development of gels, cream-gels, and simple or multiple emulsions. SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can be used in a vary large number of applications: • • • • • • • • • • • • • foundations, tinted gels, pailletted, suncare and after-sun products, mascaras, makeup removal milks, baby lotions, skin care products, products based on heat-sensitive or pH-dependent active ingredients, skin lightening products, self-tanning products, opaque, transparent, pailletted, bleaching products (H202, etc.), opaque, transparent, pailletted, hair colouring products, opaque, transparent, pailletted, massage products, ultrasonography gels, cream-gels, emulsion-gels, etc. SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can be combined with many cosmetic active ingredients, including AHAs, BHAs, DHA, vitamins and their derivatives, hydrogen peroxide, humectants such as glycerine, plant extracts, mineral or organic sun filters, anionic active ingredients such as lipoproteins in salt form, and cationic active ingredients such as chlorhexidine or cetrimide. 21 HYDRATING SERUM 6997 Formula: fluid cream-gel • SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethylacrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer – SEPPIC) LANOL™ 99 (isononyl isononanoate – SEPPIC) • • AQUAXYL™ (Xylitylglucoside and anhydroxylitol and xylitol – SEPPIC) • SEPICIDE™ HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben /Butylparaben - SEPPIC) • SEPICIDE™ CI (Imidazolidinyl urea - SEPPIC) • Parfum / Fragrance • Aqua 0.9% 15.0% 3.0% 0.3% 0.2% 0.1% Qsp 100% Procedure Add the Sepinov EMT10 to the water a little at a time with mechanical stirring. Add the Lanol 99 then the Aquaxyl to the gel. Stir for a few minutes. Add the preservative and the fragrance. Comments FORMULATION INTEREST: Stabilization, using a low polymer content, of 15% of oil phase in a creamgel at moderate viscosity (20,000 mPas) SEPINOV EMT10 LANOL 99 AQUAXYL SEPICIDE HB SEPICIDE CI “2-in-1” powder polymer thickener, pre–neutralized, easy to use, showing excellent emulsifying properties at low polymer content and over a wide pH range (3-10). – Novel chemical structure guaranteeing good compatibility with active ingredients and a supple, easy to pick up texture. Ester with silky feel. New “AQUACONCEPT” technology: thanks to harmonization of cutaneous water flows, AQUAXYL hydrates and restructures the skin. Water reserves are increased instantaneously and water loss is reduced (effectiveness proven in vitro and in vivo). The water balance is restored, and the skin becomes more supple and more resistant! Preservative Preservative Characteristics Appearancet pH Viscosity Stability white 6-6.5 20,000 mPa.s – 25,000 mPa.s Stable at RT, 40 °C Notes Fragrance: Azul Ref TM 8857 (Technico Flor) 22 CLEAR SERUM FOR OILY SKIN WITHOUT OIL PHASE 6939 Formula A B • • • • • Water LIPACIDE™ C8G (Capryloyl glycine – SEPPIC) MONTANOX™ 20 (Polysorbate 20 – SEPPIC) Sodium hdroxide SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethylacrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer – SEPPIC) C • Ethanol • SEPICIDE™ HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben /Butylparaben - SEPPIC) • Water 20.0% 1.0% 2.0% Qs 2.0% 5.0% 0.3% Qsp 100% Procedure Solubilize Lipacide C8G and Montanox 20 under mecanic stirring, in water heated at 80°C (the mixture should be clear). Cool at around 30°C then adjust the pH around 5.2 with the sodium hydroxide. Introduce step by step Sepinov EMT 10 in phase A under mixing. Add water then Ethanol and Sepicide HB. Comments INTEREST : Gel with a clear apparence and a softness texture LIPACIDE C8G A glycine biovector and skin acidifying agent, it protects the skin and helps maintain its ecosystem. It also protects cosmetic products by increasing the microbiological stability of formulas with a low preservative content. MONTANOX 20 Solubilizer SEPINOV EMT 10 Powder polymer « 2 in 1 » thickener in a wide pH range (3-10) ,ready to use , with a Excellent emulsifying and stabilizing power at low level –Innovative chemical structure with a good compatibility with specific actives ingredients and supple texture easy to pick up.. SEPICIDE HB Preservative 23 Characteristics Aspect pH Viscosity Stability Clear gel Around 5.2 Around 1 500 mPa.s Stable at RT – 45°C 24 BODY CREAM RICH IN OIL 6999 Formula A • MONTANOV™ L (C14-22 alcohol and C12-20 alkylglucoside - SEPPIC) • C12-15 alkylbenzoate • SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethylacrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate B • Aqua C • SEPICIDE™ HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben copolymer – SEPPIC) /Butylparaben - SEPPIC) SEPICIDE™ CI (Imidazolidinyl urea - SEPPIC) • • Parfum / Fragrance • Triethanolamine 1.0 % 50.0% 1.0% Qsp 100% 0.3% 0.2% 0.1% Qs Procedure Heat Montanov L and the ester at 80°C. Introduce step by step Sepinov EMT10 in the oily phase. Add water warmed before at 75°C. Homogenize with high shear for few minutes (rotor/stator turbine). Cool the emulsion under moderate stirring and introduce phase C at around 30°C. Adjust the final pH around 5 if necessary. Comments INTERESTS : Stabilyzing effect at low level of emulsifier and polymer (1%) with a high level of fatty phase (50 %) MONTANOV L Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. MONTANOV L is especially useful to produce fluid formulas whatever the type or quantity of oil phase used. MONTANOV L has a shear-thinning profile that is stable over time and well-adapted to the formulation of sprayable emulsions. It offers easy stabilization in the presence of hydrosoluble active ingredients that are rich in electrolytes. MONTANOV L can promote liquid crystals according to the emulsion diagram, creating water reservoirs within the emulsion to help maintain skin moisturization. In combination with the other grades of the MONTANOV range, it can be used to modulate the texture and flexibility of the emulsions as desired. MONTANOV L is fully adapted to produce emulsions with any kind of texture fluid or thick. SEPINOV EMT10 Powder polymer « 2 in 1 » thickener in a wide pH range (3-10) ,ready to use , with a Excellent emulsifying and stabilizing power at low level –Innovative chemical structure with a good compatibility with specific actives ingredients and supple texture easy to pick up.. 25 SEPICIDE HB Preservative SEPICIDE CI Preservative Charactéristics Aspect pH Viscosity Stability White emulsion 5-5.5 70 000 mPa.s Stable at RT – 45°C Notes Fragrance : Esprit de fleur Ref RS 8217 (Technico Flor) 26 BLEACHING-CREAM Formula A : Activator A B Montanov 68 SEPINOV™ EMT10 Parafin oil POB Propyl POB Methyl Ammonia Water 1,5% 1,5% 20,0% 0,1% 0,1% 2,0% qsp 100% • Viscosity > 100 000 mPas pH: 10,0 Formula B : Bleaching-cream A B MONTANOV™ 68 SEPINOV™ EMT10 Parafin oil Sodium pyrophosphate H202 30 vol LESNa 2,2OE POB Propyl POB Methyl 1,5% 1,5% 20,0% 0,6% 6,0% 1,0% 0,1% 0,1% qsp 100% Water Charactéristics Viscosity : 35 000 mPas pH : 4,5 27 PAILLETTED FOUNDATION B • • • • • • • • • • • Aqua/ Water Butylene glycol PEG-400 PECOSIL PS100 (Dimethicone copolyol PEG-7 phosphate - PHOENIX) Tromethamine Titanium dioxyde Talc Iron oxyde yellow Iron oxyde red Coloronna glitter bronze SENSANOV™ WR (C20-22 Alkyl phosphate and C20-C22 alcohols - C • • • • MONTANOV™ L (C14-22 alcohol and C12-20 alkylglucoside - SEPPIC) Isostearyl isostearate Ethylhexyl palmitate SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethyl acrylate /Sodium acryloyldimethyl A SEPPIC) taurate copolymer -SEPPIC) D E • • • • • • • Aqua/Water Xanthan gum Tetrasodium EDTA MICROPEARL™ M201 (Methylmethacrylate crosspolymer – SEPPIC) MANOLIVA™ (Manganese gluconate & olive extract – SEPPIC) Paillettes C Glitter gold SEPICIDE™ HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben /Butylparaben – SEPPIC) SEPICIDE™ CI (Imidazolidinyl urea – SEPPIC) • • Parfum/Fragrance 28 20.00 % 4.00 % 4.00 % 1.00 % qs pH=7 10.00 % 2.00 % 0.90 % 0.30 % 2.00 % 1.00 % 2.00 % 10.00 % 10.00 % 0.30 % QSP 100% 0.15 % 0.05 % 3.00 % 3.00 % 3.00 % 0.30 % 0.20 % 0.10 % SELF-TANNING GEL • • • • • • • Stability Aqua/Water Dihydroxyacetone SEPINOV™ EMT10 QSP 100 % 5.00 % (Hydroxyethyl acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer -SEPPIC) acrylate Squalane SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben /Butylparaben - SEPPIC) Acide lactique Parfum/Fragrance /Sodium 1.10 % 15.00 % 0.50 % 0.05 % 0.10 % Temporary resultats Stable 3 months at room temperature Stable : 3 month at 45 °C 29 BLEACHING GEL • • • • Stability Aqua/Water H202 (35 V°) SEPINOV™ QSP 100 % 6.00 % EMT10 (Hydroxyethyl acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer -SEPPIC) acrylate Tromethamine /Sodium 1.50 % Qsp pH=4.5 Temporary resultats Stable 3 months at room temperature Stable : 1 month at 45 °C Since the formulations offered have not undergone toxicological and microbiological studies, SEPPIC cannot accept responsibility for the handling and use of the products suggested by way of indication only. 30 Remarques Les seules spécifications analytiques garanties sont celles figurant dans le bulletin d’analyse fourni à chaque livraison de produit. SEPPIC* ne donne aucune garantie, implicite, expresse ou légale, autre que la garantie limitée décrite ci-dessus, pour le produit objet de ce document. Sans préjudice des dispositions qui précèdent, SEPPIC* ne donne aucune garantie quant à la qualité loyale et marchande du produit ou à son aptitude à un usage particulier. L’utilisation et/ou la vente du produit, seul ou associé à d’autres marchandises, se feront sous la seule responsabilité du client. Les informations contenues dans ce document sont fournies gracieusement, et sont données à titre indicatif ; elles sont basées sur l’état des connaissances de SEPPIC* relatives au produit à cette date et sont données de bonne foi. Ces informations sont destinées à des personnes ayant une compétence technique et les utilisant à leurs risques et périls. Etant donné que l’utilisation de ces informations est en dehors du contrôle de SEPPIC*, SEPPIC* ne donne aucune garantie, implicite ou expresse, et n’assume aucune responsabilité quant à l’utilisation de ces informations. En particulier, le client devra vérifier qu’il ne contrevient pas à des brevets existants. * SEPPIC étant et, selon le pays : SEPPIC S.A. SEPPIC UK Ltd SEPPIC ITALIA Srl 75, quai d’Orsay 75321 Paris cedex 07 FRANCE Tel. : +33 (0) 1 40 62 55 55 Fax : +33 (0) 1 40 62 52 53 50 Salisbury Road PO Box 338 - Hounslow TW4 6SH - ANGLETERRE Tel. : +44 208 577 8800 Fax : +44 208 570 2106 Via Quarenghi 27 20151 Milano ITALIE Tel. : +39 02 38009110 Fax : +39 02 38009140 GIVAUDAN LAVIROTTE S.A. SEPPIC Inc. SEPPIC Chine 56, rue Paul Cazeneuve BP 8344 – 69008 Lyon FRANCE Tel. : +33 (0) 4 78 61 55 00 Fax : +33(0) 4 72 05 60 89 30, Two Bridges Road, suite 210 Fairfield, New Jersey 07004-1530 USA Tel. : +1 973 882 5597 Fax : +1 973 882 5178 Room 510 Jin Tai Building 58 South Mao Ming Road Shanghai 200020 CHINE Tel. : +86 (21) 64 66 01 49 Fax : +86 (21) 64 66 11 09 SEPPIC GmbH SEPPIC Belgium NV ABC Tower Köln Ettore - Bugatti - Str.6-14 51149 Köln-Porz ALLEMAGNE Tel. : +49 (0) 220 3890 3100 Fax : +49 (0) 220 3890 3199 Nieuwe Weg 1 Haven 1053 B – 2070 Zwijndrecht BELGIQUE Tel. : +32 3 250 3911 Fax : +32 3 250 3912 www.seppic.com Filiale du groupe AIR LIQUIDE C/2892/GB/01/April 2005 31
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