2892 SEPINOV_EMT Logo_gb EMT 10 1416918709 SEPINOV TDS

User Manual: EMT-10

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1
SEPINOV™ EMT 10
New “2-in-1” powder polymer
• “2-in-1” powder polymer characterized by:
excellent emulsifying–stabilizing capability
constant thickening capability over a wide pH
range (3 - 10)
• Emulsifying and stabilizing capability at low
polymer content
• Versatility of use: cold or hot, and without
neutralization
• Novel chemical structure compatible with specific
active ingredients (AHA, DHA, etc.)
• Supple texture, easy to pick up
(patent pending)
2
CONTENTS
1 – The advantages of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 page 3
2 – Emulsifying-stabilizing capability page 4
2.1 – Capability to emulsify-stabilize independently of the
final viscosity
2.2 – Capability to emulsify all types of oil phase
2.3 – Capability to emulsify large quantities of oil
3 – Thickening-stabilizing capability page 8
3.1 – Capability to thicken over a wide pH range
3.2 – Capability to produce an aqueous gel
• Without electrolytes
• In the presence of electrolytes
3.3 – Capability to thicken in the presence of specific active
ingredients
• glycolic acid
• VCPMg
• DHA
3.4 – Capability to thicken in the presence of solvents
4 – Texture analysis profile page 15
5 – Formulation advice page 17
5.1 – Procedure
5.2 – Content
5.3 – Storage conditions
6 – TECHNICAL DATA page15
6.1 – Toxicological data
6.2 – Analytical data
6.3 – Regulatory data
7 – APPLICATIONS page 21
3
1 – THE ADVANTAGES OF SEPINOV™ EMT 10
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 belongs to a new range of powder polymer which combines:
excellent emulsifying-stabilizing properties with
good thickening capability over a wide pH range
“2-in-1” powder polymer, high versatility and performance in formulation!
The novel structure of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (patent pending) gives it all the following
properties:
Excellent emulsifying-stabilizing capability in cream -gels:
independent of the final viscosity
with high % of oil phase (up to 50%)
compatible with all types of oil phase
Stabilizing effect at very low polymer content in emulsions, but also in
cream-gels at moderate viscosity (20,000 mPas)
Constant thickening capability over a wide pH range (3 to 10)
Novel chemical structure (pre-neutralized by sodium salts) giving full
compatibility with specific active ingredients at all pH values
(DHA, AHA, etc.)
Great versatility in use: pre-neutralized powder, very easily dispersible in the
oil phase or in the aqueous phase, cold or hot.
Supple texture, easy to pick up
Production of translucent gel under restrictive conditions: in the absence
of an oil phase and in the presence of solvent and/or Oramix™ CG110.
4
2 – EMULSIFYING-STABILIZING CAPABILITY
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 disperses and stabilizes oil phases in aqueous media:
without neutralization
without addition of other emulsifiers
without calculation of HLB
without a heating step.
Very stable cream-gels with a perfectly smooth and uniform appearance are
obtained very easily.
The performance of the inherent “emulsifying–stabilizing” properties of a
polymer can be measured by the following 3 distinct criteria:
the capability to emulsify-stabilize a given % of oil phase, without thickening
beyond 20,000 mPas
the capability to emulsify-stabilize all types of polar or nonpolar oil phase
the capability to emulsify-stabilize a large quantity of oil phase
2.1 – Capability to emulsify–stabilize in cream-gels at moderate
viscosities
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is distinguished by its excellent emulsifying–stabilizing
properties, independent of the final viscosity of the cream-gel ; it can thus be
used to formulate cream-gels of variable viscosities:
at 50,000 mPas or at more than 100,000 mPas
but also at moderate viscosity (20,000 mPas), which is more difficult to
accomplish in the present powder polymers.
2.1.1 The intrinsic emulsifying–stabilizing performance of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is
measured by determination of the minimum powder content necessary to
stabilize a given quantity of oil phase.
A very simple test reveals the unique character of SEPINOV™ EMT 10.
Table 1: Stabilization of 15% Lanol™ 1688 (Cetearyl ethylhexanoate)
5
Minimum powder content
necessary for the stabilization of
15%
Lanol™ 1688
Viscosity of the cream
-
gel (mPa.s)
stable for more than 3
months
at 40°C and 1 month at
50°C
SEPINOV™ EMT 10
Polymer A
Polymer B
0.70%
1%
0.60%
20,000
90,000
50,000
Formulas tested: LANOL™ 1688 (Cetearyl ethylhexanoate) 15 %/Polymer x%/water qs 100%,
spontaneous pH (6-7). Viscosities measured with a Brookfield LVT 6 rpm.
Polymer A : Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer
Polymer B : Acrylates/C10 – 30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
0.6% SEPINOV™ EMT 10 “emulsifies-stabilizes” 15% Lanol™ 1688 in a
cream-gel at moderate viscosity (20,000 mPas) at all pH values.
Notes:
1°Powder polymers A and B, in the presence of 15% Lanol 1688, do not allow stable
cream-gels at a viscosity of 20,000 mPas to be obtained.
Stabilization is possible only in conjunction with high viscosity (50,000 and 90 000
mPas), and only at a pH greater than 6 in the case of powder B.
2° The emulsifying-stabilizing performance of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 at low content (0.6%)
in cream-gels at moderate viscosity (around 20,000 mPas) has also been tested with
15% of various types of oil phase.
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is the commercially-available powder polymer
showing the best “emulsifying–stabilizing” properties in cream-gels
formulated:
- at moderate viscosities (20,000 mPas)
- at all pH values (3 to 10)
6
2.2 – Capability to emulsify-stabilize all types of oil phase
The “emulsifying–stabilizing” capability of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 works on oil phases of
very different types (refer to table 2). All the cream-gels obtained are very stable
under extreme conditions: 3 months at 45°C.
Table 2: Emulsifying capability of SEPINOV™ EMT10 with regard to 15% of different
oil phases in gel–creams at 20,000 and 100,000 mPas.
Cream-gel
composition
SEPINOV™ EMT x% + Oil phase 15% + Water qs 100%
spontaneous pH
Oil phase tested Vegetable oils Silicone oils Mineral oils Esters
% SEPINOV
™
EMT 10 2% 2% 2% 2%
Viscosity of the cream-gel
> 100,000 mPa.s
(Brookfield LVT V6)
Stability: 3 months at 45°C
Stable Stable Stable Stable
% SEPINOV
™
EMT 10 0.6% 0.6% 0.6% 0.6%
Viscosity of the cream-gel
20,000 mPa.s
(Brookfield LVT V6)
Stability: 3 months at 45°C
Stable Stable Stable Stable
SEPINOV™ EMT shows “emulsifying–stabilizing” properties with all types of oil
phase and independently of the final viscosity of the cream-gels.
7
2.3 – Capability to emulsify-stabilize large quantities of oils
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is capable of stabilizing up to 50% of polar or nonpolar oil
phase.
Graph 3: Determination of the maximum concentration of oil phase incorporable in
an aqueous gel at 100,000 mPas formulated at spontaneous pH (6-7) and at acidic
pH (3).
Formulas tested: Caprylic capric triglycerides x%/polymer content qs 100,000 mPas, water
qs 100%, spontaneous pHi (6-7).
Polymer A : Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer
Polymer B : Acrylates/C10 – 30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Polymer C : Sodium polyacrylate
At all acidic or alkaline pH values, SEPINOV EMT shows much higher
emulsifying-stabilizing capability than commercially-available powders A, B
and C, which under the same conditions
(cream-gel at 100,000 mPas) cannot incorporate more than 10 to 20% of caprylic
capric triglycerides.
Powders B and C cannot be used at acidic pH 3.
SEPINOV EMT at 2% in a cream-gel at 100,000 mPas emulsifies-stabilizes a high
% of different types of oil phase over a wide pH range:
- 50% for caprylic capric triglycerides
- 40% for paraffin oil or cetearyl isononanoate
- 40% for cetearyl isonanoate
50%
0%
20%
0%
10%
20%
0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50%
% caprylic capric triglycerides
Sepinov EMT 10
Powder A
Powder B
Powder C
pH 3
pH i (6-7)
8
3 – THICKENING CAPABILITY
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 stabilizes and regulates the viscosity of O/W emulsions,
independently of the chosen pH and the emulsifier used.
The thickening capability of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is characterized by its capability to
thicken easily:
• over a wide pH range (3-10)
• an aqueous gel at 100,000 mPas
• in the presence of specific active ingredients
• in the presence of solvents.
3-1 – Capability to thicken over a wide pH range
• Aqueous gel - without electrolytes
Between pH 3 and pH 10 the viscosity developed by SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is
constant, as illustrated by the graph below.
Graph 4: Viscosity of aqueous gels containing 2% SEPINOV™ EMT according to pH
Viscosity against pH - Sepinov EMT 10
0
20 000
40 000
60 000
80 000
100 000
24681012
pH
Viscosity (mPa.s)
Formulas tested: SEPINOV™ EMT 10 2%/water qs 100, pH adjusted with lactic acid or
triethanolamine. Viscosities measured with a Brookfield LVT 6 rpm
An aqueous gel containing 2% SEPINOV™ EMT 10 shows constant viscosity over a
wide pH range
(3 to 10).
9
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 reduces the risks of changes in the viscosity of a formula
over time related to potential pH changes.
3.2 – Capability to produce aqueous gels at 50,000 and 100,000
mPas without electrolytes
Graph 5 Viscosity (mPas) of aqueous gels obtained according to the % of SEPINOV™
EMT 10 powder used at initial pH.
SEPINOV™ EMT at 2% in water gives an aqueous gel at approximately 100,000
mPas.
SEPINOV™ EMT at 1% in water gives an aqueous gel at approximately 50,000
mPas.
Graph 6: Comparison of the thickening capacities of Sepinov EMT 10, SIMUGEL™ NS
and SEPIGEL™ 305 at pHi for the production of aqueous gels at 50,000 and 100,000
mPas
V
iscosity against polymer content in water -
Sepinov EMT 10
0
20 000
40 000
60 000
80 000
100 000
120 000
140 000
160 000
00,511,522,533,5
% powder
Viscosity (mPa.s)
3.2 %
2.0% 2.0%
1.0%
4.5%
2.3%
0
0,5
1
1,5
2
2,5
3
3,5
4
4,5
% powder necessary
SEPIGEL
305
SEPINOV
EMT 10
SIMULGEL
NS
Gel 100,000mPas
Gel 50,000 mPas
10
Aqueous gel in the presence of electrolytes
SEPINOV™ EMT is compatible with formulas containing electrolytes.
The thickening capability of SEPINOV™ EMT may be reduced in a medium rich in
electrolytes; for example, in the presence of NaCl, it is recommended that:
- the levels of SEPINOV™ EMT used should be increased in order to attain
the desired viscosities (while remaining at contents compatible with a
good cosmetic feel)
- it should be combined with other polymers to obtain a synergistic
effect, such as xanthan gum or hydroxyethyl cellulose.
In the presence of large quantities of electrolytes (0.6% NaCl), the use of SEPIPLUS™
265 and 400 is preferable, since their chemical structures are better suited to
these extreme formulation conditions.
Graph 7 Viscosity of aqueous gels containing 0.4% NaCl as a function of
polymer content
Viscosity against polymer content in 0.4% NaCl
0
20 000
40 000
60 000
80 000
100 000
120 000
140 000
012345
% Powder
Viscosity (mPa.s)
an aqueous gel at 50,000 mPas is obtained in the presence of 0.4% NaCl with
3% SEPINOV™ EMT 10
5.3% SEPIGEL™ 305
11
3.3 – Capability to thicken in the presence of specific active
ingredients
Given the versatility of the thickening capability of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 with regard to
pH, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can be used to thicken and stabilize formulas containing
different cosmetic active ingredients at both acidic and neutral pH.
3.3 1-Formulation in the presence of glycolic acid at pH 3
Graph 7 Viscosity of aqueous gels containing 3% glycolic acid at pH 3
SEPINOVTM EMT 10 and glycolic acid
0
20 000
40 000
60 000
80 000
100 000
120 000
140 000
2 2,5 3 3,5 4 4,5 5
% SEPINOVTM EMT 10
Viscosity (mPas)
Formulas tested: Glycolic acid 3%, SEPINOV ™ x%/water qs 100%.
pH adjusted with NaOH, viscosities measured with Brookfield LVT 6 rpm
3% of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is necessary to produce an aqueous gel at
50,000 mPas in the presence of 3% glycolic acid at pH 3
12
3.3.2 Formulation in the presence of magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (VCPMg) at
pH 7.5
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 has equally good performance in the development of formulas at
neutral pH.
Graph 8 Viscosity of aqueous gels containing 3% VCPMG at pH 7.5
SEPINOVTM and VCPMg
0
20 000
40 000
60 000
80 000
100 000
120 000
1 1,5 2 2,5 3 3,5 4 4,5 5
% SEPINOVTM EMT 10
Viscosity (mPas)
Formulas tested: VCPMg 3%, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 x%/water qsp 100%. pH adjusted with
NaOH, viscosities measured with Brookfield LVT 6 rpm
3.5% SEPINOV™ EM 10 is necessary to produce an aqueous gel at
50,000 mPas in the presence of 3% VCPMg (at pH 7.5)
3.3 3-Formulation in the presence of DHA
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is a novel powder polymer, pre-neutralized by sodium salts,
giving good compatibility with DHA (formulated at acidic pH and often incompatible
with ammonium salts).
13
3.4 – Capability to thicken in the presence of solvents
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can be used to thicken in the presence of different types of
solvent (ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, etc.).
It is also possible to produce anhydrous gels with 100% glycerine or propylene
glycol.
Principle: Production of an aqueous gel at 100,000 mPas with 2% SEPINOV™ EMT
10 followed by slow incorporation of 50% of solvent at pHi into the gel
Graph 8: Viscosities obtained in the presence of 50% solvent at spontaneous pH or
at acidic pH
Thanks to its capability to thicken solvent media and its texture-generating properties,
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is an essential formulation partner for the formulation of products
containing alcohol or glycol compounds, such as:
slimming gels
“heavy legs” gels
serums for oily skin
hair styling-fixing gels
massage gels
Compatibility with solvents
SEPINOVTM EMT 10
130,000
140,000
160,000
70,000
0
25 000
50 000
75 000
100 000
125 000
150 000
175 000
Ethanol 95° Glycerine Propylene
glycol
Butylene glycol
Viscosity (mPas)
14
3.5 – Transparent formulations
Under very particular conditions SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can give gels, without an oil
phase, which are transparent and have a pleasant texture on application.
The transparent appearance of these gels, without oil phase, is improved by the
addition of glycols (propylene glycol, glycerine or ethanol) and/or ORAMIX™ CG
110 (Caprylyl/Capryl glucoside) at less than 1%.
For example, in the formulation F 6839 “Serum for oily skin – without oil phase”, the
ethanol enabled formulation of a translucent gel with a very smooth feel on
application.
15
4 – SEPINOV™ EMT 10 – Texture analysis profile
Comparative analysis of the texture analysis profile of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 with that
of product A (Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer) reveals the
specific features of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 :
- much more supple texture
- easier to pick up even at high viscosity (> 50,000 mPas).
Graph 7: Comparison of texture profiles of 50,000 mPas cream-gels
SEPINOV EMT10 -
Produit A -
F2
F1
A1
A2
SEPINOV EMT10 -
Produit A -
F2
F1
A1
A2
SEPINOV EMT10 -
Produit A -
F2
F1
SEPINOV EMT10 -
Produit A -
F2
F1
A1
A2
Formulas tested: LANOL™ 1688 15%/Polymer qs 50,000 mPas/water qs 100%,
Product A: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer
Texture profile produced using a TEC
™
texture analyzer
(LAMY) after application of compression-traction cycles.
16
Analysis of these texture profiles highlights the remarkable characteristics of
SEPINOV™ EMT 10:
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 Ammonium
acryloyldimethyltaurate/
VP copolymer
Conclusion
Hardness index =
maximum
compression force
(N)
0.31
0.45
SEPINOV™ EMT 10
for the production of
supple cream-gel
Ease of pick-up =
adhesion energy
(mJ)
1.65
0.8
SEPINOV™ EMT 10
for the production of
cream-gel easy to
pick up
As for all the SIMULGEL™ – SEPIGEL™ - SEPIPLUS™ latexes, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is
characterized in terms of texture by the production of supple cream-gels, easy to pick
up with good adhesion properties.
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is thus distinguished from other available polymers which give,
for high-viscosity cream-gels, very thick gels, often difficult to pick up.
17
5 – FORMULATION ADVICE
5.1 – Use
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is very easy to use, without restrictions, in formulation
both in the laboratory and at the industrial stage.
General
*SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is a powder polymer pre neutralized, very easy to use, without
any neutralization.
*To adjust the final pH of any type of formula, the use of weak acids and bases is
advised in order to maintain full control of this step.
*SEPINOV™ EMT 10 resists shear and high temperatures (up to 80°C) without
problems. These properties provide great freedom in the use of the product.
Emulsions
As for all ingredients in powder form, it is preferable to add SEPINOV™ EMT 10 at
the beginning of the process. For the production of emulsions it is thus advisable to
disperse the SEPINOV™ EMT in one of the two phases before emulsification.
Cream-gels
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 powder does not need neutralization and can be dispersed easily:
- in either the aqueous phase or the oil phase
- cold or hot.
Recommended apparatus for cream-gels
- Deflocculator turbine
Any procedure can be used, although preference should be given to stirring modes
optimized for powder dispersion, such as deflocculator turbines (photo below).
18
- Low-shear turbine (anchor type)
Cream-gels can be produced with a low-shear anchor-type turbine (photo below).
Under these conditions, we advise that you proceed as follows:
“disperse” SEPINOV™ EMT 10 in the oil phase
add the aqueous phase to the oil phase.
Note:
The stability and the viscosity of cream-gels are fully reproducible whatever
procedure and apparatus are chosen. However, the microscopic appearance may
show different levels of fineness depending on the shear applied; cream-gels
obtained with the deflocculator have a more uniform and finer appearance than
those obtained with an anchor system.
5.2 – Polymer content
In emulsions, when SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is used as thickener-stabilizer, it can be
used from 0.2 to 2% depending on the nature of the other ingredients of the
formula.
In cream-gels, when SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is used as the sole stabilizer of the
formula, it can be used from 0.4 to 3% depending on the nature of the other
ingredients of the formula.
19
6 – TECHNICAL DATA
6.1 – Toxicological data
The good tolerance of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 has been assessed according to the
customary toxicological tests.
HET-CAM
SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 5% in water, was tested according to the HET-CAM
technique (method published in the French official journal on 26/12/1996).
→ Under these conditions, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is classified as non-irritant with a
score = 0 (SEPPIC expert report HET-CAM 2715).
RBCA
Haemolyzing capability
The haemolyzing capability of SEPINOV™ EMT 10 with regard to red blood cells was
assessed according to the technique published in INVITTOX no. 37.
The test consists in determining from a dose-response curve the concentration of
product that causes lysis of 50% of red blood cells. This value is L.
In the case of SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 5%, L > 1000 µl:
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is classified as non-haemolyzing
Denaturing capability
Assessment of the denaturing capability consists in measuring the degree of
denaturation of oxyhaemoglobin. This effect, secondary to haemolysis, provides an
indication of the alteration of intracellular proteins.
SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 5%, was assessed on this criterion according to the
INVITTOX 37 recommendations. The denaturation index obtained was 0%;
consequently SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is considered to be non-denaturing.
→Tested according to the RBCA technique, SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 5%, is
classified as non-irritant with an L/D ratio > 100 (SEPPIC expert report RBCA 1008).
Patch test
SEPINOV™ EMT 10, diluted to 2.2% in water, was tested in an occlusive patch test for
48 hours on 20 healthy volunteers.
→ Tested under these conditions, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is classified as non-irritant
(DERMSCAN expert report patch test 1040587 LCE04049 a/f confidential).
Sensitization
SEPINOV™ EMT 10, was tested at 5.00% on a panel of 50 healthy volunteers
according to the MARZULLI-MAIBACH protocol. SEPINOV™ EMT 10is considered non-
irritant and non-sensitizing (expert report DERMSCAN 05E078 LCE04051).
20
Ames test
According to the Ames test, SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is considered to be non-mutagenic
(LEMI expert report 2004-DTT662-4 FINAL LCE04036 f/a confidential).
The SEPINOV™ EMT 10 safety data sheet must be consulted before any handling.
6.2 – Analytical data
Note: The values below are given for guidance only; the analysis certificate supplied
with each batch is sole guarantee of the product specifications.
IR Spectrum
RESULTS
Characteristics
Identification*
1 g, Thermobalance,
150°C for 60 minutes
> 90 %
Dry matter
Brookfield RVT, M4,
5r
p
m
70 000 - 100 000 mPas
Viscosity at 1.5%
in water
NFT 73 206
5.0 – 6.5
p
H at 1.5% in water
Visual
White powder 20°C Aspect
METHOD
RESULTS
21
6.3 – Regulatory data
INCI name : Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium acryloyl dimethyl
Taurate Copolymer
CAS no. : 111286-86-3
EINECS/ELINCS no. : not applicable
6.4 – Storage conditions
Hygroscopic powder to be kept away from moisture.
7 - APPLICATIONS
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 is an essential formulation partner for cosmetics. It can be used
easily in the development of gels, cream-gels, and simple or multiple emulsions.
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can be used in a vary large number of applications:
• foundations, tinted gels, pailletted,
• suncare and after-sun products,
• mascaras,
• makeup removal milks,
• baby lotions,
• skin care products,
• products based on heat-sensitive or pH-dependent active ingredients,
• skin lightening products,
• self-tanning products, opaque, transparent, pailletted,
• bleaching products (H202, etc.), opaque, transparent, pailletted,
• hair colouring products, opaque, transparent, pailletted,
• massage products, ultrasonography gels,
• cream-gels, emulsion-gels, etc.
SEPINOV™ EMT 10 can be combined with many cosmetic active ingredients,
including AHAs, BHAs, DHA, vitamins and their derivatives, hydrogen peroxide,
humectants such as glycerine, plant extracts, mineral or organic sun filters, anionic
active ingredients such as lipoproteins in salt form, and cationic active ingredients
such as chlorhexidine or cetrimide.
22
HYDRATING SERUM 6997
Formula: fluid cream-gel
• SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethylacrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate
copolymer – SEPPIC)
0.9%
• LANOL™ 99 (isononyl isononanoate – SEPPIC) 15.0%
• AQUAXYL™ (Xylitylglucoside and anhydroxylitol and xylitol – SEPPIC) 3.0%
• SEPICIDE™ HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben
/Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
0.3%
• SEPICIDE™ CI (Imidazolidinyl urea - SEPPIC) 0.2%
• Parfum / Fragrance 0.1%
• Aqua Qsp
100%
Procedure
Add the Sepinov EMT10 to the water a little at a time with mechanical stirring. Add the Lanol 99 then
the Aquaxyl to the gel. Stir for a few minutes. Add the preservative and the fragrance.
Comments
FORMULATION INTEREST: Stabilization, using a low polymer content, of 15% of oil phase in a cream-
gel at moderate viscosity (20,000 mPas)
SEPINOV EMT10 “2-in-1” powder polymer thickener, pre–neutralized, easy to use, showing
excellent emulsifying properties at low polymer content and over a wide pH
range (3-10). – Novel chemical structure guaranteeing good compatibility
with active ingredients and a supple, easy to pick up texture.
LANOL 99 Ester with silky feel.
AQUAXYL New “AQUACONCEPT” technology: thanks to harmonization of cutaneous
water flows, AQUAXYL hydrates and restructures the skin. Water reserves are
increased instantaneously and water loss is reduced (effectiveness proven in
vitro and in vivo). The water balance is restored, and the skin becomes more
supple and more resistant!
SEPICIDE HB Preservative
SEPICIDE CI Preservative
Characteristics
Appearancet white
pH 6-6.5
Viscosity 20,000 mPa.s – 25,000 mPa.s
Stability Stable at RT, 40 °C
Notes
Fragrance: Azul Ref TM 8857 (Technico Flor)
23
CLEAR SERUM FOR OILY SKIN
WITHOUT OIL PHASE
6939
Formula
A • Water 20.0%
• LIPACIDE™ C8G (Capryloyl glycine – SEPPIC) 1.0%
• MONTANOX™ 20 (Polysorbate 20 – SEPPIC) 2.0%
• Sodium hdroxide Qs
B • SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethylacrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate
copolymer – SEPPIC)
2.0%
C • Ethanol 5.0%
• SEPICIDE™ HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben
/Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
0.3%
• Water Qsp
100%
Procedure
Solubilize Lipacide C8G and Montanox 20 under mecanic stirring, in water heated at 80°C (the mixture
should be clear).
Cool at around 30°C then adjust the pH around 5.2 with the sodium hydroxide.
Introduce step by step Sepinov EMT 10 in phase A under mixing.
Add water then Ethanol and Sepicide HB.
Comments
INTEREST : Gel with a clear apparence and a softness texture
LIPACIDE C8G A glycine biovector and skin acidifying agent, it protects the skin and helps
maintain its ecosystem. It also protects cosmetic products by increasing the
microbiological stability of formulas with a low preservative content.
MONTANOX 20 Solubilizer
SEPINOV EMT 10 Powder polymer « 2 in 1 » thickener in a wide pH range (3-10) ,ready to use ,
with a
Excellent emulsifying and stabilizing power at low level –Innovative
chemical structure with a good compatibility with specific actives ingredients
and supple texture easy to pick up..
SEPICIDE HB Preservative
24
Characteristics
Aspect Clear gel
pH Around 5.2
Viscosity Around 1 500 mPa.s
Stability Stable at RT – 45°C
25
BODY CREAM RICH IN OIL
6999
Formula
A • MONTANOV™ L (C14-22 alcohol and C12-20 alkylglucoside - SEPPIC) 1.0 %
• C12-15 alkylbenzoate 50.0%
• SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethylacrylate / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate
copolymer – SEPPIC)
1.0%
B • Aqua Qsp
100%
C • SEPICIDE™ HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben /Propylparaben
/Butylparaben - SEPPIC)
0.3%
• SEPICIDE™ CI (Imidazolidinyl urea - SEPPIC) 0.2%
• Parfum / Fragrance 0.1%
• Triethanolamine Qs
Procedure
Heat Montanov L and the ester at 80°C. Introduce step by step Sepinov EMT10 in the oily phase. Add
water warmed before at 75°C.
Homogenize with high shear for few minutes (rotor/stator turbine).
Cool the emulsion under moderate stirring and introduce phase C at around 30°C.
Adjust the final pH around 5 if necessary.
Comments
INTERESTS : Stabilyzing effect at low level of emulsifier and polymer (1%) with a
high level of fatty phase (50 %)
MONTANOV L Glucolipid emulsifier in harmony with nature. MONTANOV L is especially
useful to produce fluid formulas whatever the type or quantity of oil phase
used. MONTANOV L has a shear-thinning profile that is stable over time and
well-adapted to the formulation of sprayable emulsions. It offers easy
stabilization in the presence of hydrosoluble active ingredients that are rich
in electrolytes. MONTANOV L can promote liquid crystals according to the
emulsion diagram, creating water reservoirs within the emulsion to help
maintain skin moisturization. In combination with the other grades of the
MONTANOV range, it can be used to modulate the texture and flexibility of
the emulsions as desired. MONTANOV L is fully adapted to produce
emulsions with any kind of texture fluid or thick.
SEPINOV EMT10 Powder polymer « 2 in 1 » thickener in a wide pH range (3-10) ,ready to use ,
with a
Excellent emulsifying and stabilizing power at low level –Innovative
chemical structure with a good compatibility with specific actives ingredients
and supple texture easy to pick up..
26
SEPICIDE HB Preservative
SEPICIDE CI Preservative
Charactéristics
Aspect White emulsion
pH 5-5.5
Viscosity 70 000 mPa.s
Stability Stable at RT – 45°C
Notes
Fragrance : Esprit de fleur Ref RS 8217 (Technico Flor)
27
BLEACHING-CREAM
Formula A : Activator
A Montanov 68 1,5%
SEPINOV™ EMT10 1,5%
Parafin oil 20,0%
B POB Propyl 0,1%
POB Methyl 0,1%
Ammonia 2,0%
Water qsp 100%
•
Viscosity > 100 000 mPas
pH: 10,0
Formula B : Bleaching-cream
A MONTANOV™ 68 1,5%
SEPINOV™ EMT10 1,5%
Parafin oil 20,0%
B Sodium pyrophosphate 0,6%
H202 30 vol 6,0%
LESNa 2,2OE 1,0%
POB Propyl 0,1%
POB Methyl 0,1%
Water
qsp
100%
Charactéristics
Viscosity : 35 000 mPas
pH : 4,5
28
PAILLETTED FOUNDATION
A • Aqua/ Water 20.00 %
• Butylene glycol 4.00 %
• PEG-400 4.00 %
• PECOSIL PS100 (Dimethicone copolyol PEG-7 phosphate - PHOENIX) 1.00 %
• Tromethamine qs pH=7
• Titanium dioxyde 10.00 %
• Talc 2.00 %
• Iron oxyde yellow 0.90 %
• Iron oxyde red 0.30 %
• Coloronna glitter bronze 2.00 %
B • SENSANOV™ WR (C20-22 Alkyl phosphate and C20-C22 alcohols -
SEPPIC)
1.00 %
• MONTANOV™ L (C14-22 alcohol and C12-20 alkylglucoside - SEPPIC) 2.00 %
• Isostearyl isostearate 10.00 %
• Ethylhexyl palmitate 10.00 %
C • SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethyl acrylate /Sodium acryloyldimethyl
taurate copolymer -SEPPIC) 0.30 %
D • Aqua/Water QSP 100%
• Xanthan gum 0.15 %
• Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 %
• MICROPEARL™ M201 (Methylmethacrylate crosspolymer – SEPPIC) 3.00 %
• MANOLIVA
™
(Manganese gluconate & olive extract – SEPPIC) 3.00 %
• Paillettes C Glitter gold 3.00 %
E • SEPICIDE™ HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben
/Propylparaben /Butylparaben – SEPPIC) 0.30 %
• SEPICIDE™ CI (Imidazolidinyl urea – SEPPIC) 0.20 %
• Parfum/Fragrance 0.10 %
29
SELF-TANNING GEL
• Aqua/Water QSP 100 %
• Dihydroxyacetone 5.00 %
• SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethyl acrylate /Sodium
acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer -SEPPIC) 1.10 %
• Squalane 15.00 %
• SEPICIDE HB (Phenoxyethanol/Methylparaben/Ethylparaben
/Propylparaben /Butylparaben - SEPPIC) 0.50 %
• Acide lactique 0.05 %
• Parfum/Fragrance 0.10 %
Stability Temporary resultats
Stable 3 months at room temperature
Stable : 3 month at 45 °C
30
BLEACHING GEL
• Aqua/Water QSP 100 %
• H202 (35 V°) 6.00 %
• SEPINOV™ EMT10 (Hydroxyethyl acrylate /Sodium
acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer -SEPPIC) 1.50 %
• Tromethamine Qsp pH=4.5
Stability Temporary resultats
Stable 3 months at room temperature
Stable : 1 month at 45 °C
Since the formulations offered have not undergone toxicological and
microbiological studies, SEPPIC cannot accept responsibility for the handling
and use of the products suggested by way of indication only.
31
Remarques
Les seules spécifications analytiques garanties sont celles figurant dans le bulletin d’analyse fourni à
chaque livraison de produit.
SEPPIC* ne donne aucune garantie, implicite, expresse ou légale, autre que la garantie limitée décrite
ci-dessus, pour le produit objet de ce document. Sans préjudice des dispositions qui précèdent,
SEPPIC* ne donne aucune garantie quant à la qualité loyale et marchande du produit ou à son aptitude
à un usage particulier. L’utilisation et/ou la vente du produit, seul ou associé à d’autres marchandises,
se feront sous la seule responsabilité du client. Les informations contenues dans ce document sont
fournies gracieusement, et sont données à titre indicatif ; elles sont basées sur l’état des
connaissances de SEPPIC* relatives au produit à cette date et sont données de bonne foi. Ces
informations sont destinées à des personnes ayant une compétence technique et les utilisant à leurs
risques et périls. Etant donné que l’utilisation de ces informations est en dehors du contrôle de
SEPPIC*, SEPPIC* ne donne aucune garantie, implicite ou expresse, et n’assume aucune responsabilité
quant à l’utilisation de ces informations. En particulier, le client devra vérifier qu’il ne contrevient pas à
des brevets existants.
* SEPPIC étant et, selon le pays :
SEPPIC S.A. SEPPIC UK Ltd SEPPIC ITALIA Srl
75, quai d’Orsay 50 Salisbury Road Via Quarenghi 27
75321 Paris cedex 07 PO Box 338 - Hounslow 20151 Milano
FRANCE TW4 6SH - ANGLETERRE ITALIE
Tel. : +33 (0) 1 40 62 55 55 Tel. : +44 208 577 8800 Tel. : +39 02 38009110
Fax : +33 (0) 1 40 62 52 53 Fax : +44 208 570 2106 Fax : +39 02 38009140
GIVAUDAN LAVIROTTE S.A. SEPPIC Inc. SEPPIC Chine
56, rue Paul Cazeneuve 30, Two Bridges Road, suite 210 Room 510 Jin Tai Building
BP 8344 – 69008 Lyon Fairfield, New Jersey 07004-1530 58 South Mao Ming Road
FRANCE USA Shanghai 200020 CHINE
Tel. : +33 (0) 4 78 61 55 00 Tel. : +1 973 882 5597 Tel. : +86 (21) 64 66 01 49
Fax : +33(0) 4 72 05 60 89 Fax : +1 973 882 5178 Fax : +86 (21) 64 66 11 09
SEPPIC GmbH SEPPIC Belgium NV
ABC Tower Köln Nieuwe Weg 1
Ettore - Bugatti - Str.6-14 Haven 1053
51149 Köln-Porz B – 2070 Zwijndrecht
ALLEMAGNE BELGIQUE
Tel. : +49 (0) 220 3890 3100 Tel. : +32 3 250 3911
Fax : +49 (0) 220 3890 3199 Fax : +32 3 250 3912
www.seppic.com
Filiale du groupe AIR LIQUIDE
C/2892/GB/01/April 2005

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