Lyman User's Guide PDF Blackpowder

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Lyman

User’s Guide for
Black Powder Products
This booklet contains important how-to information on the use
and maintenance of black powder products and accessories
including:
• Flintlock and Caplock - How They Work
• Black Powder Loads and Specifications
• Shooting Tips–Round Ball and Conicals
• Basics of Bullet Casting
• Disassembly and Cleaning
The User’s Guide also includes detailed product information and
exploded parts diagrams for:
• Great Plains Rifle
• Deerstalker Rifle
• Trade Rifle
• Plains Pistol

User
's Gui
ts
de for Black Powder Produc
©2003 Lyman Products Corporation, 475 Smith Street., Middletown, CT 06457
Printed in U.S.A. (3-03) #6985043

Table of Contents
Black Powder Shooter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Special Product Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Some Words of Caution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Flintlock and Caplock–How they Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
How to Load—The Patched Roundball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-8
Shooting Tips—Choosing Ball and Patch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-10
How to Load—The Minie, Solid-Base Conical or Sabot . . . . . . . . . . . .10-11
Bullet Suitability Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Disassembly and Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Black Powder Loads & Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Shooting Tips—Black Powder Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Bullet Casting Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16-17
Sight Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18-19
Optional Lyman Blackpowder Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Black Powder Guns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Great Plains Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22-23
Trade Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24-25
Deerstalker Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26-29
Lock Assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30-31
Plains Pistol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Instructions for Lyman Assembly Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33-39
Lyman Catalog Section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40-42
Promotions and Order Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43-44

Introduction
This publication has been developed to provide the fullest possible information about Lyman muzzleloaders. Information contained herein-especially the
operational procedures of loading and cleaning–can almost always be used
when operating guns of another make.

Repair and Warranty Service
For factory warranty service or repairs, please direct your Lyman muzzleloader
as follows:
Great Plains Rifle, Trade Rifle, Deerstalker, Plains Pistol
Dixon Muzzleloading, 9952 Kunkels Mill Road, Kempton, PA 19529
610-756-6271
Contact Dixon only for warranty work.
Call Lyman direct for general technical
service information.
(Dixon Muzzleloading is Lyman’s national warranty repair station for the guns designated.)
Attach a complete letter of information to the outside of the package and
package securely. Use sufficient cushioning material to prevent movement of
the gun in package during shipment. For minor non-warranty repairs, check
with gunsmiths in your area.

Lyman

Dear Black Powder Shooter:
Congratulations on purchasing your new Lyman Black Powder Gun. All of our
black powder products are the result of extensive thought and testing. With
proper care, your new gun should bring you a lifetime of shooting pleasure.
Before firing your gun, there are a few precautions that should be followed.
Please read these instructions carefully.
1. If your new rifle is a flintlock, we have function tested the lock assembly,
flint and frizzen to ensure that it provides proper ignition. Therefore, please do
not be concerned with the resulting marks on the frizzen–it is simply a
reminder of our comprehensive factory inspection.
2. The barrel's bore contains a heavy duty preservative that may resemble
rusty oil. It is not rust! This preservative must be thoroughly removed before
firing to obtain maximum accuracy.
Directions:
A. Swab the bore with some form of solvent or penetrating oil
(example: WD-40 or Hoppe's #9). Let soak overnight.
B. Brush out the following day using a nylon brush wrapped with 00
steel wool or a brass brush (must be under bore diameter to prevent
bristles from jamming at the breech of the barrel).
C. Wipe out using soft flannel (avoid t-shirt material–it doesn't work
well using cleaning jag and has a tendency to stay down the bore).
The brass coloration you see is normal after cleaning.
3. The stock has been stained with oil leaving a dull finish.
As with all oil finished stocks, rubbing in additional thin coats of oil
(Linseed or Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil) will further enhance the finish and
protect the stock.
If you have any questions on these instructions, please call our customer
service department at 1-800-22-LYMAN (except AK, HI, CT and foreign who
may call 860-632-2020). We will be glad to provide whatever assistance
you require.
Sincerely,
Your friends at Lyman Products

SPECIAL PRODUCT INFORMATION–
PLEASE READ
Check List for Lyman Black Powder Guns
Upon opening the carton containing your Black Powder Gun you should find
the following items.
Contents
Black Powder Model-Finished
Great Plains Rifle
Stock
Great Plains Hunter
Ramrod
Trade Rifle
Barrel
Deerstalker
Wedges (One for Trade & Deerstalker
two for Great Plains)
Primitive rear sight
(Trade & Great Plains)
Adjustable rear sight
(Trade & Great Plains)
Lyman 16AML & 37AML Sights
(Deerstalker only)
Cleaning Jag
Flint (Flint models only)

Great Plains Rifle Kit
Great Plains Rifle Flint Kit

Stock
Ramrod
Barrel
Wedges (One for Trade & Deerstalker
two for Great Plains)
Primitive rear sight
Adjustable rear sight
Cleaning Jag
Flint (Flint Models only)
Lock Assembly
Trigger Assembly
Trigger Guard
Bag Containing Assembly Hardware

Plains Pistol Finished

Assembled Gun
Ramrod
Polybag Containing:
Cleaning Jag
Lock Screw Bushing

Plains Pistol Kit

Stock
Barrel
Lock Assembly
Trigger Assembly
Trigger Guard
Ramrod
Bag Containing Assembly Hardware
Belt Hook

SOME WORDS OF CAUTION
1.

2.
3.

4.
5.

8.
9.
10.
11.
12.

13.
14.

15.
16.

17.

18.
19.

All Lyman black powder pistols and rifles are intended for use with black
powder or Pyrodex only. Use of any other propellant can cause
serious injury to the shooter and damage to the firearm. Never use
smokeless powder.
Guard against overcharges. Follow the instructions and do not exceed
suggested charges in this booklet.
Wear safety glasses when shooting black powder firearms. Shatterproof
shooting glasses will protect the eyes from sparks, broken percussion
caps, hot gases, and lead fragments.
Protect your hearing. Use ear plugs or muffs when firing any firearm.
Be certain the projectile is seated firmly against the powder charge.
Any gap between the projectile and powder charge could cause serious
damage to the firearm and injury to the shooter. Hunters, in particular,
should check the position of the projectile in the barrel at regular
intervals when in the field. Decap/deprime before checking, though.
Use only non-synthetic cloth patching of suitable thickness when loading
round balls. Do not use Poly Patches or any synthetic wad with a round
ball. The ball can separate and act as a bore obstruction.
Never charge a muzzleloader directly from a powder flask. A sudden
powder ignition from a lingering spark could cause the entire flask to
explode. Instead, use an individual charge from a powder measure when
loading your Lyman gun.
Never smoke when handling black powder.
Before each shooting session, check your black powder firearm carefully.
Before relying on the half-cock position, make sure the hammer will
not fall when the trigger is pulled. Note: half-cock is not a “safety!”
While on the firing line, keep all black powder canisters closed.
Keep spectators to the rear of the shooter. Standing beside a
muzzleloader is not safe enough. Flames, hot gases and percussion cap
fragments may fly from the side of the firearm causing injury.
Keep clear of the muzzle, particularly during loading.
If the gun misfires, keep the muzzle pointed down range for at least a
minute before attempting to reprime it. There is always the chance a spark
is smoldering in the powder charge and the gun could fire at any second.
Treat unprimed flintlocks as loaded weapons. Sometimes the sparks of an
unprimed flintlock can fire the gun.
Use a non-flammable material to hold the flint in place. Cloth, cardboard
or canvas could hold a lingering spark which might set off the next
priming charge unexpectedly.
Store black powder and percussion caps in separate locations. Use their
original containers when possible. Caps are sensitive to static electricity,
percussion, heat and flame. Check local fire regulations before storing
black powder in the home.
Follow the basic rules of firearms safety when handling any black
powder firearm.
If you sell or give this Lyman black powder gun to someone else, give
him this booklet too. Copies of this booklet are available from Lyman.

FLINTLOCK AND CAPLOCK–HOW THEY WORK
The Flintlock
Today's flintlock evolved around 1600 in Europe and was the most efficient
lock for firearms use until the percussion system was perfected in the early
1800s. Even so, flintlock rifles remained in service in some of America's more
rural areas until, perhaps, the turn of the century.
Simplicity of operation typifies the flintlock since all the shooter must have is a
bit of priming powder and a flint for the hammer's jaws. This flint must be held
securely and wrapping it in a bit of leather or thin sheet of lead gives the upper
and lower jaws of the "cock" something to hold onto–and the flint as well.
The flintlock operates in the following manner: The hammer is placed on full
cock, the pan is charged with either 4Fg or 3Fg powder and the frizzen is
snapped down over the powder pan. Now the lock is ready for firing. Usually
the hammer is lowered to half cock unless the shot will be taken immediately.
To fire the gun, the hammer is brought back to the full cock position, the gun
raised and aimed–the trigger pulled. The hammer falls and the fireworks begin.
The flint strikes the face of the frizzen and this forceful scraping causes a
shower of sparks–which are actually tiny pieces of molten metal from the
frizzen face. These sparks drop into the powder pan and–usually–ignite the
charge of priming powder. The flash of the igniting primer charge travels
through the barrel's touch hole and ignites the main charge. In all cases,
successful firing is contingent on having a sharp flint tightly held in the hammer, a clean hard face on the frizzen, fine dry powder in the pan, a clean touch
hole and main charge properly loaded in good condition.
That is how the chain of events should go anyway. Sometimes the main charge
decides to "play dead" and all the shooter gets is the poof of the igniting primer
charge ... hence the old saying of "flash in the pan."
The flintlock isn't perfect but the shooter can go a long way towards minimizing
most of the problems if he takes the time to understand the gun's needs. Here are
some of the major points:
Vulnerable Priming–Wind and water can cause misfires without too much
trouble. The solution lies in awareness of the problem and the possible use of a
waterproof hood which fits over the lock area. Bullet lube or grease applied to
the outer edge of the frizzen and powder pan will help to keep water away from
the powder. Flints should be clamped tightly in the hammer's jaws and replaced
when they are dull.
Pan Flash–This can be a real problem for any flintlock shooter since the
eruption of the priming is a very real and spectacular event! The shooter can
minimize this distraction by using priming powder sparingly.
Long Lock Time–Only practice and experience can teach the shooter to
control his particular gun.
To the uninitiated the combination of a heavy hammer striking the
springloaded frizzen (which snaps open adding yet another force to confound
aiming efforts) and the resultant “whoosh” of the igniting primer charge is
more than distracting. By the time the main charge goes off, the sights may be
way off target and the shooter's eyes screwed shut while he wonders when all
the commotion will stop!
The solution? Keep practicing. Get to know your flintlock and take care
of it. Wear shooting glasses for extra confidence and protection.
4

The flintlock is poised at full cock
and ready for firing.

As the hammer falls, the leading edge
of the flint makes initial contact with
the face of the frizzen. The continuing
force of the hammer starts to rock the
springloaded frizzen back and up on its
pivot. Sparks generated here are minor
and probably offer very little to the
ignition process.

The hammer continues to fall and the
direct blow of the flint against the
frizzen changes to a heavy scraping of
the frizzen by the flint. This produces
a shower of sparks which start the
ignition of the priming powder.
The priming is fully ignited and the
main charge has just begun to burn.
Typically, there will be a certain
amount of the main charge pushed up
the barrel aways behind the ball before
the powder is consumed.

This Brown Bess was heavily
primed and the resulting eruption
has seriously distracted the shooter.
Remember–use a light priming
charge and wear safety glasses for
extra confidence and protection.

Bicentennial skirmishers use a shield
around the side of their powder pans
to prevent touch hole blast from striking the shooter to their right. All flintlock shooters should be extra careful
since this jet of gas is very hot and
can easily injure someone.
5

THE CAPLOCK
While the flintlock was a distinct improvement over the ignition systems it
superseded, it did have its problems and, as is usual, experiments were
conducted by a variety of people in America and Europe seeking an improved
replacement. After several not-so-effective alternatives had been tried, the
percussion system as we know it today was devised, proved and accepted.
This new system was relatively impervious to the elements and offered the
shooter faster lock time and less distracting primer ignition. The percussion
lock was widespread by the 1830's1840's.
The caplock is even simpler than the flintlock and is comprised of only three
functioning components: Hammer, nipple and percussion cap. It works like
this: With the gun loaded, the hammer is eased back to full cock and a small
copper cap is pressed down over the nipple. This little cap contains a dab of
fulminate sealed into the top. The cap is held firmly in place by the "skirts" or
sides which are sized to grip the outside of the nipple.
To fire the piece, the hammer is brought to full cock and released by the
trigger. The falling hammer hits home and crushes the fragile copper cap
between the recessed hammer face and nipple, exploding the fulminate.
The little spurt of flame is directed down inside the nipple along a flash
channel leading through the side of the barrel into the main charge–which is
then ignited.
The percussion system flourished only a few decades before the metallic
cartridge was perfected and accepted, completely replacing the caplock
system on all guns manufactured after the turn of the twentieth century–if not
before. Today it is the most preferred muzzle-loading ignition system on the market.
The percussion lock guns on today's market are very reliable providing the
nipple channel is kept open and dry and the main charge is in good shape.
Warning: Do not dry fire. This will damage the nipple.

HOW THE CAPLOCK WORKS
Draw the hammer to full cock. Firmly press a
cap down over the nipple after glancing down
the flash channel for obstructions. Lower the
hammer to half-cock if the shot will not be
made right away. Since your rifle is equipped
with a fly, the hammer sear must be lowered
past the half-cock notch and then brought back
up and into the notch. Half-cock is not a safety.

NOTE: If the cap fits a bit loosely squeeze the
sides, or skirts, a bit so they will grip the sides of
the nipple and the cap will stay securely in place.
Ease the hammer back to full cock when you
are ready to fire.
After firing the shot, leave the hammer down over the expended cap.
This restricts the flow of air through the barrel and helps smother any sparks
lingering after your last shot.
6

HOW TO LOAD ...
The Patched Roundball
Without a doubt, the most popular and widely used muzzle-loading projectile is the patched roundball. This combination of a soft lead sphere and a
scrap of lubricated cloth is peculiarly American and has been with us ever
since its worth was proven prior to and during our Revolutionary War.
Over the years different styles of rifling have been devised and used with
some degree of success. Characteristics ran from extremely deep grooves to
relatively shallow ones; from two or three lands to eight or more.
Throughout this period and up through today the most constant single factor
has been the patch around the ball–that hasn't changed ... nor has the lead
ball, for that matter.
A roundball, whether fired from a rifle or a smoothbore, needs the patch to
take up the slack, called "windage", between the ball and barrel walls. A
properly fitted ball and patch will seal the bore and keep propellant gases
behind the bullet where they do the most good. At the same time the ball is
held rigidly in position and not allowed to wander from side to side as it
speeds towards the muzzle. In a smoothbore this means the ball leaves the
muzzle the same way each shot; it does the same in a rifle plus the ball is
stabilized by the rifling and given a high degree of accuracy.
Use of the patched roundball in a single-shot pistol is virtually identical to its
use in a long gun in terms of interior ballistics and loading operations.
Loading the patched roundball requires the same techniques regardless
whether the gun is rifled or smoothbore, flintlock or caplock. The following
preliminaries should be performed before the first charge of the day is poured
down the barrel:
Since oil and any other form of moisture is the enemy of the successful black
powder shooter, the bore and chamber area should receive a good cleaning
just before the gun is loaded. Run fresh patches down the barrel until they
come out clean and dry. Clean the flash channels of both flintlocks and
caplocks with pipe cleaners–pushing the flexible stem on into the barrel.
Next, while outdoors, place a #11 cap on the nipple of the caplock, hold the
muzzle near a blade of grass, bit of dust, etc. and drop the gun's hammer on
the cap. Detonation of the fulminate will cause a small but noticeable blast to
emanate from the muzzle moving the blade of grass or bit of dust. If the blast
does not manifest itself, the shooter must go back over the gun to clear away
the obstruction.
Finally, after all is clear, run a last clean patch down the barrel to catch any
freshly dislodged lubricant. Now the gun is ready to be loaded.

LOADING STEPS
1. Set the rifle's butt on the ground with the muzzle inclined in a safe
direction –well away from your body. Measure and pour the powder down
the barrel using an adjustable measure or pre-weighed charges.
2. Lay your strip of lubricated patching cloth (or pre-cut patch) over
the muzzle. Center the ball and press it into the bore until it is flush
with the muzzle. Tightfitting combinations can be seated by reversing your
ball starter and “rolling” it over the ball.
3. Cut the excess patching from around the ball. Specially designed patch
knives are ideal for this task although nearly any sharp object will suffice.
This is unnecessary for pre-cut patches.
4. Push the ball into the bore using your ball starter.
5. Seat the ball firmly on the powder with the ramrod. The desired ramming
stroke is smooth and uninterrupted. Jabbing or tamping the ball down the
bore may result in serious deformation or uneven seating force upon the
charge. Make sure the ball is firmly seated since an air space could cause a
bulged barrel–or worse. Marking your ramrod at the appropriate level is a
handy trick. Return the ramrod to the thimbles.
6. Place the hammer on full cock and prime your piece–either with powder or
#11 percussion cap. You are ready to fire. Lower the hammer to half-cock
if the shot will not be made right away. Since your rifle is equipped with a
fly, the hammer sear must be lowered past the half-cock notch and then
brought back up and into the notch. Half-cock is not a safety.

SAFETY NOTES
Caplocks: After firing leave the hammer down over the exploded cap as you
reload. This helps smother any sparks left from the preceding shot. Keep your
hands and face away from the muzzle.
Flintlocks: Before squeezing the trigger at the range, check to your sides and
make sure your buddy is not standing in line with your barrel's touch-hole.
When a fully loaded flintlock goes off there is a jet of hot gas that shoots out
from the side and leaves its mark on unwary bystanders. Warn your
companions and take extra care before squeezing the trigger.
Be sure there is no gap between the lockplate/priming pan and the barrel flat
beneath the vent hole. Fine priming powder can work through a gap,
accumulate in the lock mortise and, when ignited, cause gun damage and
injury to the shooter and bystanders. Periodically remove and clean both the
lock and the stock's lock mortise.
All Misfires: Should your gun fail to fire . . . keep the muzzle pointed in a
safe direction until the chance of a hangfire has passed and you are satisfied
the charge is truly "dead". Next, inspect the nipple and/or vent, remove any
obvious obstruction, reprime and try the shot again. If the charge continues to
balk, you may have to work some fine powder into the nipple or vent with
your pick, reprime and shoot. At worst, it may be necessary to have a
gunsmith dismantle the rifle, unbreech the barrel and drive out the load.
Balls Seated Without Powder: This seems to happen to everyone at one
time or another. It may be necessary to use a “worm” or similar device–but
before you go to those extremes try this: Work some fine powder into the
flash channel, prime and shoot. Work more powder into the channel and
barrel, seat the ball, prime and shoot. This should do it.
8

SHOOTING TIPS ...
CHOOSING BALL AND PATCH
Accuracy with a roundball rifle is based on a paradox; an underside ball is spun
by rifling that it never touches! The secret, if there is one, lies in the cloth patch.
It functions as a gas seal and, theoretically at least, completely seals the bore.
It also transfers to the ball the grip and the spin of the rifling. To perform its
duties, the cloth patch should fill the grooves of the rifle. In other words, it
should be under considerable compression not only where it contacts the lands,
but also at the bottom of each groove. A tight fitting combination of patch and
ball is an absolute must for accuracy and considerable cloth must be packed
into each groove to completely seal the bore.

When a perfectly patched roundball is
driven through a barrel, it will show
cloth marks completely around its
circumference, like the ball on the right.
These marks will be light where the ball
and patch touched the grooves and
heavy where they touched the lands.

Incorrect

Correct

Your selection of the proper cloth patching should he based on an
understanding of the relationship between the bore of your rifle and the
roundball which will be used. Ball diameter must be less than that of the bore
and the cloth must not only fill the grooves but also allow a tight sliding fit
between the lands and the patched ball. Follow the suggestions of your rifle's
manufacturer concerning projectile diameter. Several companies make
specific diameters available either with the purchase of the gun or as a
component in a valuable accessory kit. Most other guns will have standardized bore sizes and will be suited for one of the standard roundball diameters
such as .490", .495", .530" or .535". To make your final judgment on ball and
patch you must measure the bore.
The best way to measure the bore of our rifle is with a soft lead slug which
has the rifling engraved on its diameter. Remove the barrel from the stock.
Slide a brass rod, which is about 12" long and just under bore diameter (about
3/8" or 7/16"), into the barrel. Start an oversized slug into the muzzle and
drive it into the barrel approximately 2" using a brass punch. Now tip the
muzzle end of the barrel downwards so that the brass rod slides into the slug.
Repeat this procedure several times until the rod drives the slug from the
barrel. The engraved slug will have a perfect print of your bore's dimension.
Now, with a micrometer, measure both the bore and groove diameter.
Here's a sample:
9
Groove - .526, Bore - .503"

Bore
Groove Dia. .526"
Dia. .503"
Patch thickness is related
to depth of the rifling.

Ball Diameter
Must Make Some
Allowance for
Patch Thickness
at Lands

Patch should be thick enough
to seal both lands and grooves.

We know the ball must be smaller than the bore diameter so let's select a
.498" diameter ball as the best choice for this bore.
With the ball adequately undersize (.005") to fit into the bore we now determine the needed patching thickness to seal the grooves.
Groove
.526"
Ball
-.498"
.028" difference
Now divide the difference by two and the minimum patching thickness is
determined: .014". Remember, there is a thickness of patching on each side of
the ball and the difference between the ball and groove diameters must be
halved to determine the thickness of cloth needed. Usually it is better to buy
cloth that is several thousandths of an inch thicker since the lubricated material
will compress upon loading.
Now that you're on the way–keep experimenting with your rifle. Vary the
powder charge, cleaning technique, patching or whatever. That's part of the
fun of muzzle-loading. But remember to vary only one condition at a time so
you can easily keep track of cause and effect.
Lyman suggests that only natural-fiber cloth be used for patching; not
synthetics or natural/synthetic blends. The heat of ignition can melt some
synthetics resulting in inaccuracy and deposits in your bore. Furthermore,
Lyman suggests that plastic cups or patching systems not be used since there
can be inadvertent misuse which results in unsafe shooting conditions. Stick
with the traditional cloth patch.

HOW TO LOAD ...
The Minie, Solid-Base Conical, or Sabots in a Rifle
As for every muzzle-loading gun, there are several operations the wise shooter
performs before pouring the first powder charge down the bore. First, he dries
the bore and chamber area with clean patches and removes any oil
accumulation visible in the nipple and vent. Next, the shooter will snap one or
10

two caps on the nipple to make sure the channel from the nipple through the
barrel wall is open. For a quick visual verification place the muzzle near a leaf,
blade of grass or similar object–cap blast will noticeably move it around if the
vent is clear. Finally, run the patch down the bore one last time to collect any
new debris. Now, you're ready to load and here's how it goes:
Set the gun's butt on the ground with the barrel angled so the muzzle is well
away from your body.
Pour the measured charge down the barrel. Many shooters use pre-measured
charges loaded into cardboard or plastic tubing. The important thing to
remember is not to load directly from a flask or horn. There have been instances
where an ember from the preceding shot has remained alive long enough to
ignite the next charge as it is dropped down the barrel. The resulting flash
touched off the powder within the flask, causing serious injury to the shooter.
Use a separate measure.
Conical or Minies
Push the lubricated conical, base-down, into the bore, place the recessed
ramrod head over the nose and smoothly ram it home. Strive for a smooth
motion that leaves the bullet seated atop the powder without air space or
undue compression. Try to avoid jabbing or tamping the bullet for this may
cause the skirt/base to become deformed, which will certainly have an
adverse affect on the projectile's accuracy. Remember, unless the bullet is
seated fully and correctly, an air space may result–and that could mean a
bulged or split barrel. Uniformity in loading is the secret to good
marksmanship when shooting a Minie or solid-base conical.
Conicals can shift off the powder charge and down towards the muzzle if you
carry the gun in even a slight barrel-down position. Hunters are particularly
exposed to this and should take special precautions: Stop frequently,
deprime/decap and use your ramrod to reseat the conical. Afterward,
reprime/recap and continue hunting.
Sabots
Sabot bullets are designed to be seated with the bullet inside of the sabot.
Never seat the sabot and bullet separately! Place the base of the sabot with a
bullet into the muzzle of the rifle and align it as straight as possible with the
bore. Using a ball starter, drive the sabot and bullet several inches into the
barrel. Use the recessed end of the ramrod to drive the sabot and bullet the
rest of the way down the barrel. Try to do this smoothly and firmly, seating
the base of the sabot against the powder charge. Uniformity in loading is key
to good accuracy.
Bring the hammer to full cock and press a percussion cap firmly over the
nipple–you’re ready to fire. Lower the hammer to half-cock if the shot will
not be made right away. Since your rifle is equipped with a fly, the hammer
sear must be lowered past the half-cock notch and then brought back up and
into the notch. Half-cock is not a safety.
After firing, leave the hammer down over the exploded cap as you reload.
This restricts air circulation and helps smother any sparks left behind by your
preceding shot.
Remember–avoid having your hands or face directly over the muzzle
during the loading operation. After the gun is loaded follow the safety
rules used for modern firearms.
11

CONICAL BULLET SUITABILITY CHART
1.

Bullet No. 454616–Popularly known as the "Maxi-ball," this bullet is
designed specifically for the T/C Hawken with 1/48" twist and nominal
bore diameter of .45".
2. Bullet No. 457121PH–Designed for Navy Arms Parker-Hale Volunteer
rifles with 1/20" twists. Casts a nominal .456/.453" diameter in pure
lead.
3. Bullet No. 504617–Designed for the Lyman Trade Rifle, Deerstalker,
T/C Hawken and other rifles with nominal .500" bore and 1/48" twist.
4. Bullet No. 508656–This is the .50 cal. version of our new Plains bullets
which offer greater bearing surface areas for improved accuracy. It also
features a two diameter design for easy loading. Fits most traditional .50
cal. muzzleloaders.
5. Bullet No. 508668–This is the .50 cal. version of our new Shocker
bullets. The two diameter design makes loading easy and the heavy
weight provides excellent knock down power. This bullet works best
with fast twist barrels. Available as a mould or as packaged bullets
6. Bullet No. 548669–This is the .54 cal. version of our new Shocker
bullets. Like the .50 cal. design, this bullet loads easily and is an excellent choice for hunting. It is designed for fast twist barrels, such as the
Lyman Great Plains Hunter. Available as a mould or as packaged bullets.
7. Bullet No. 548657–This is the .54 cal. version of our new Plains bullets.
Like the .50 cal. design, this is a two diameter bullet with a greater
bearing surface area than common Maxi bullet designs. Fits most
traditional .54 cal. muzzleloaders.
8. Bullet No. 575213–The standard of .58 shooters. Fits any .58 gun on the
market today. Does well with charges up to 70 grains FFg.
9. Bullet No. 575213PH–This is the same bullet as the 510 gr. 575213, but
with a shallow base plug which increases the bullet's weight to 566
grains. Designed for Navy Arms .58 cal. Parker-Hale rifles.
10. Bullet No. 577611–This bullet takes up where the 213 leaves off at 70
grains of FFg. Fits any .58 gun on the market today a bit tighter and gun
will require cleaning more often.
MUZZLELOADING RIFLES
.45
.50

454616
220 gr.

457121PH
Conical
475 gr.

504617 508656 508668
370 gr. MAXI Shocker
395 gr. 420 gr.

MUZZLELOADING RIFLES
.54

.58 Orig. & Replica– 58 cal. Rifled Musket
Old Style

548669
Shocker
450 gr.

548657
MAXI
450 gr.

575213PH 577611
575213
OS, MINNIE MINIE MINIE
566 gr.
540 gr.
460 gr.

DISASSEMBLY AND CLEANING OF
RIFLES AND PLAINS PISTOL
You must clean your rifle or pistol after each shooting session to prevent rust
and corrosion from damaging the metal parts. The Lyman Great Plains Rifle,
Trade Rifle, Deerstalker or Plains Pistol may be easily disassembled for
cleaning by removing the ramrod, driving out the barrel wedge in the forearm, drawing the hammer to full cock and lifting the barrel (muzzle first) out
of stock. The hooked breech will slip right out of the tang unit with no further
disassembly needed. Of course, these Lyman guns can be cleaned without any
disassembly but care should be taken to prevent water and solvents from
entering the stock or lock mechanism.

TWO CLEANING TECHNIQUES:
HOT SOAPY WATER–The traditional way to clean a muzzleloader.
1. Scrub the bore with a strong solution of hot soapy water. Wipe all powder
fouling from other metal parts.
2. Flush the barrel with the hottest clean water available. This not only
removes the soap but also heats the steel which helps in the drying process.
3. Dry all parts.
4. Apply a good coat of oil or moisture-displacing lubricant to all metal parts
and reassemble. A silicone gun rag is excellent for treating the exterior of
the muzzleloader.
5. Inspect for the next few days just to be safe.
MODERN SOLVENTS–Just as effective as soapy water if properly done.
Solvents designed specifically for black powder guns are now on the market
and the old standbys may be used as well.
1. Scrub the bore with brass brush and lots of patches. Wipe down all metal
parts.
2. Using plenty of clean patches, wipe the bore dry. All guns are supplied
with a cleaning jag of the proper size. The jag screws into the end of the
ramrod and will securely hold cleaning patches. Dry all metal parts.
3. Apply oil to all metal parts and reassemble. A silicone gun rag is excellent
for treating the exterior of the muzzleloader.
4. Inspect for the next few days just to be safe.
Cleaning Note
Note: The powder channel inside the breech plug is smaller than the bore
diameter and does not allow the cleaning jag to enter. Lyman recommends the
use of a .35 cal. cleaning brush and/or a slotted tip cleaning rod to reach into
this area.

Maximum Loads
Lyman Black Powder Guns
The following loads are maximum combinations of propellant and projectile
for Lyman Black Powder guns. Do Not Exceed!
Plains Pistol
.50 - .495" RB
.54 - .535" RB
Rifles
.50
.495" RB
240 gr. Sabot
335 gr. Sabot
420 gr. Maxi
.54

.535" RB
335 gr. Sabot
450 gr. Maxi
Round Ball Selection Guide
.50 cal. .490"/.495"

40 grs. 3Fg
50 grs. 3 Fg
110 grs. 2Fg or
100 grs. 2Fg or
100 grs. 2Fg or
100 grs. 2Fg or

90 grs. 3Fg
90 grs. 3Fg
80 grs. 3Fg
80 grs. 3Fg

120 grs. 2Fg or 100 grs. 3Fg
110 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg
110 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg
.54 cal. .530"/.535"

Note: Equivalent loads of Pyrodex RS, Select, or P are acceptable.
Pyrodex pellets are not recommended with Lyman side hammer guns
due to difficult ignition.

“SHOCKING PERFORMANCE”
Lymans New
Shocker™ Muzzleloading Bullets

ur new Shocker
Black Powder bullets are
guaranteed to out perform the competition.
The unique tapered
design allows easy
loading. Lubricated with
new Lyman Black
Powder Gold assures a
perfect gas seal for best
accuracy. Semi-pointed design gives higher velocity and energy
to take big game quickly and cleanly out to .125 yards for total
performance get Lyman’s Shockers.
Questions? Call toll free 1-800-22-LYMAN

Lyman

The Innovators in Lead Bullet Design.
Dept. 000. 475 Smith St. Middletown, CT 06457

SHOOTING TIPS
Black Powder Guide
Note: This chart is intended as a guide to show the appropriate uses of
Pyrodex and Black Powder. It is not necessary to follow them exactly.

FFFFG
Commonly called “Four F”, this is the finest
granulation and is used for priming flintlocks.
Due to its rather limited use, it is usually
somewhat difficult to obtain. When necessary,
FFFG may be substituted. There is no
Pyrodex equivalent.

FFFG/Pyrodex “P”
Commonly called “Triple F”, this powder is
used in most single shot pistols and all
percussion revolvers. It is also popular for all
smaller caliber rifles up to and including 50
caliber. When FFFFG is not available, FFFG
may be used to prime a flint lock.

FFG/Pyrodex “RS” and “Select”
Commonly called “Double F”, this is a popular
powder for rifles over 50 caliber and up to 75
caliber. Also used in the larger caliber single
shot pistols and most shotguns.

FG
Commonly called “Single F”, this is the
coarsest granulation used for small arms. Use
is pretty much restricted to rifles over 75 caliber
and large bore shotguns. There is no
Pyrodex equivalent.

GETTING STARTED IN CASTING
Making the move into bullet casting is easy and relatively inexpensive,
especially considering the satisfaction and enjoyment you will receive by
moulding your own minie, maxi and round balls. In addition, the increased
per-shot economy will quickly defray the cost of the casting equipment. As a
muzzleloader, your start-up costs will also be reduced since you will not need
to purchase sizing and lubricating equipment.

CASTING ACCESSORIES
Lyman offers a complete line of bullet casting accessories including casting
furnaces; minie, maxi and round ball moulds and most other casting
equipment. For the muzzleloader who is just starting out in casting, we
recommend our Mini-Mag Furnace. This 400 watt furnace is designed to
perfectly fill the needs of the black powder shooter. In about 30 minutes, this
furnace will bring 8 pounds of lead up to casting temperature.
For a complete listing of all Lyman's casting equipment, please see our
current catalog which is available by writing to:
Lyman Products, 475 Smith St., Middletown, CT 06457
or call 1-800-22-Lyman.

WARNING: Melting lead and casting lead objects
will expose you and others in the area to lead, which
is known to cause birth defects, other reproductive
harm and cancer.
REDUCING EXPOSURE: Lead contamination in the air, in dust, and on
your skin is invisible. Keep children and pregnant women away during use
and until cleanup is complete.
Risk can be reduced-but not eliminated-with strong ventilation; washing
hands immediately after use of these products before eating or smoking; and
careful cleaning of surfaces and floors with disposable wipes, after lead dust
has had a chance to settle. Use a lead specific cleaner with EDTA, or a highphosphate detergent (like most detergents sold for electric dishwashers) and
bag used wipes for disposal.
Use Strong Ventilation

BULLET CASTING BASICS
The blackpowder shooter is almost always faced with the need to cast his
own bullets, be they round, conical or minies. A bullet mould is absolutely
necessary and generations of shooters have used–and continue to use–Lyman
precision bullet moulds. Other needed supplies include pure lead, melting pot,
ladle, fluxing substance, hammer handle/mallet and towel or blanket.
Caution: If you are melting lead on the kitchen stove, exercise care to avoid
lead contamination of stove, food and food preparation and serving utensils.
First carefully clean all oil and grease from your mould, both the cavity and
the precision-ground block faces. Now the mould is ready for casting.
Second, prepare your molten lead, flux and skim off the impurities. When
the molten lead is properly cleaned it will be a bright silver.
Caution: Breathing or ingestion of lead or vapors constitutes a potentially
serious health hazard.
Third, place your ladle in the pot and let it heat to the lead's temperature.
Now arrange your towel to cushion the newly cast bullets as they drop from
the mould and place the hammer handle or mallet close by.
You're all set.
Pour molten lead from the ladle into the mould in a rapid continuous manner.
Don't interrupt the pour or an imperfect bullet will result. The first few bullets
will be flawed regardless of your expertise because the mould itself needs to
be brought up to proper temperature. This can best be done by actually
casting bullets and returning them to the melting pot.
As you finish pouring each bullet, grasp the mallet and strike the sprue cutter,
slicing through the lead in the pouring hole just above the bullet's surface.
Caution: Don't drop sprue or flawed bullets directly from the mould into the pot.
Molten lead splashes easily. Periodically–and gently–return the scraps to the pot.
Lower the mould close to your towel and open the handles. The bullet should
drop freely to the pad. If it doesn't–especially after casting for a while–it may
well be overheating and due for a minute's rest!
After you've prepared the desired quantity of bullets be sure to close the
mould and position the sprue cutter as if you were about to pour. This will
allow the mould to cool with both blocks in perfect alignment. After the
mould has cooled, oil it well as it is especially susceptible to rust after the
lead has driven out most moisture. The mould will draw moisture from your
home –similar to a dry sponge.
The smart caster is well-protected from splashes of molten lead by gloves
and eye protection and works in a well-lighted and well-ventilated room.

SIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Lyman Muzzleloaders
Lyman's Great Plains and Trade Rifles are shipped with two types of rear
sights. The shooter can choose the style preferred and save the other as a
spare.
Front Sight–The sights on these rifles are a combination of traditional
appearance and sighting principles proved in more modern times. The front
sight is a strong, one-piece, square blade design finished overall in a dark
blue/black.
This dark, thick blade permits close holding and fast sight alignment. Blades
which are polished brass or silver cause the shooter to "shoot away from the
light" due to glare on the blade.
The front sight may be left “as is” or reduced in height, by filing, to raise the
point of impact.
Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sight after filing.
Adjustable Rear Sight–This traditional buckhorn rear sight allows minor elevation adjustments without filing. Turn the screw clockwise to lower the
point of impact; counterclockwise to raise the point of impact. Windage
adjustments are made by carefully "drifting" the entire rear sight left or right.
Remember: move the rear sight in the direction you wish the ball to go.
The best way to “set up” this sight for both hunting and recreational shooting
is as follows:
1. Turn the elevation screw clockwise until the elevation arm bottoms in the
full “down” position.
2. Load rifle with your hunting charge and sight in at desired hunting range
perhaps 100 yards. File down front sight until the rifle shoots to exact point
of aim.
3. Since recreational shooting usually involves circular bullseye targets, the
rifle can usually be brought into the “ten ring” by using a six o’clock hold
and raising the elevator arm slightly.
The front and rear sight combine to produce the very efficient “Patridge”
sighting configuration which is perfect for most hunting and target shooting.
Finished Sight

Primitive Rear Sight–This is a traditional one piece, fixed sight which allows
final shape and elevation adjustments to be filed into it by the shooter.
Windage adjustments are made by tapping the rear sight to the left or right as
you wish the bullet’s impact to shift.
18

First, determine what charges work best with ball and conical projectiles.
Once you have settled on the bullet and charge level, the filing can begin.
You may find the unaltered rear sight is just fine. However, you may
discover that you are shooting high–even with the front sight blade buried in
the rear sight notch. If that is the case, then here's what you do:
1. File the top of the sight flat until you reach the correct elevation for your
selected load. The correct procedure is to file a bit then shoot; file–shoot
and so forth until the rifle shoots to the desired point of impact.
2. With the sights set correctly, now is the time to deepen or widen the rear
sight notch if you wish. Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sight.
The result is a traditional rear sight which utilizes the very practical and
efficient “Patridge” configuration–excellent for hunting or target work.
PLAINS PISTOL
The sights are non-adjustable and the front blade must be filed to adjust the
elevation. Windage adjustments may be made by “drifting” the rear sight in
the direction you wish to move bullet impact.
The rear sight notch width and front blade width are designed to provide a
very fine target sight picture. You may widen the rear notch with a jeweler's
file if you wish. Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sights after filing
to eliminate glare.
DEERSTALKER RIFLE
Front Sight–A special new configuration of Lyman #37 hunting front sight
designed to fit the dovetail of Lyman Black Powder Rifles. This sight is
equipped with a 3/32" white bead for fast shooting.
Rear Sight–A special new configuration of Lyman # 16 Folding Leaf Sight
designed to fit the dovetail of Lyman Black Powder Rifles. This open rear
sight is equipped with an adjustable elevation blade which is held firmly in
place by two lock screws.
In order to change the point of impact, loosen the two lock screws holding
the rear sight elevation blade. Raising the elevation blade will raise the point
of impact. Lowering the elevation blade will lower the point of impact.
Tighten the lock screw when the elevation blade is in the desired location. In
order to make windage adjustments, the entire rear sight can be carefully
"drifted" to the right or left. Use a punch made from a soft material such as
brass, and strike the base of the sight only. Never strike the folding leaf.
Remember: Windage adjustments are made by moving the sight in the
direction you wish the ball to go.
The Deerstalker is drilled and tapped for use with Lyman's 57 SML receiver
sight which is described under Black Powder Sight Options.
In adjusting any type of iron sight, the following principles hold true:
1. Adjust the rear sight in the direction you wish to move the bullet's impact.
2. Adjust the front sight exactly opposite the direction you wish the bullet's
impact to shift.

OPTIONAL LYMAN BLACK POWDER SIGHTS
Lyman has been making quality gunsights for shooters for more than 100
years. To meet the needs of today's black powder enthusiast, Lyman offers a
number of alternative sight packages which can improve accuracy for the
serious target shooter or hunter.
TARGET SIGHTS
Lyman #57 SML Receiver Sights
This popular target sight has 1/4 minute micrometer
click adjustments for elevation and windage, a
quick-release slide and comes with both hunting and
target style apertures. The 57 fits the Lyman Trade
Rifle, Lyman Deerstalker and most other imported
Hawken replicas. Note: Minor drilling and tapping
required depending on manufacturer. 57 SMLs
made prior to 1989 will not fit T/C Hawkens made
after 1988.
57SML
57 GPR
The 57 GPR fits Great Plains Rifles and Great
Plains Hunter Rifles. The 57 GPR has the same
specifications as the 57 SML described above,
however, is equipped with an adapter base that fits
the tang angle of Great Plains rifles.
Lyman 17 A Front Sight
Teamed with a Lyman #57 Receiver Sight, this
17A
target front sight will provide precise accuracy on
the range.
Designed for use with dovetail slot mounting, the
sight is supplied with seven interchangeable inserts
that are locked into place with a threaded cap. The
17 AML and AEU mount low to the barrel for use
with our 57 SML. The 17 ATC sits high above the
barrel for use with the high, T/C Creedmore type
rear sight. The 17 AML and ATC Sights fit T/C
Hawken and other rifles with 3/8" dovetails. The
37ML
Lyman Great Plains, Trade and Deerstalker Rifles
use the 17 AEU sight, as the barrel dovetail is .360.
HUNTING SIGHTS
Lyman offers both the 16 AML Folding Leaf Sight
and the 37 ML Front Sight in a special configuration
designed to fit all current Lyman Black Powder
Rifles. The 16 Folding Leaf Sight is adjustable for
elevation and the leaf can be folded out of the way
when the rifle is additionally equipped with a
receiver sight. The 37 Front Sight is equipped with a
3/32" white bead for fast shooting. This sight
package will fit both the Great Plains and Trade
16AML
Rifle as well as the Deerstalker Rifle.
20

FITTING WEDGE PINS
It may sometimes be necessary to adjust the fit of the wedge pins to the
escutcheons. The conditions include adjustment to prevent the pin from falling
out if the fit is loose, or the removal of a small amount of material if the wedge
pins do not enter completely through.
If the wedge pin is too loose (fig. 4) the fit can be tightened up placing an
approximately 1" diameter bar over the barrel lug. Gently tap the bar with a
hammer while rolling bar back and forth (fig. 4A). Check fit by installing barrel in stock and installing wedge pin. Repeat as necessary.
Warning: Proceed very carefully since this operation can be overdone quickly.
Wedge pins can on occasion hang up on the inside of the left side escutcheon,
To correct this, remove RIGHT side escutcheon and secure in a vise. Use a
small jewelers file to remove material from the top of the slot in which the
wedge pin slides through. Check fit by placing in cavity (it is not necessary to
screw in place) and inserting wedge pin. Repeat as necessary.
For a better fit of wedge pin, remove LEFT side escutcheon, turn upside down
and file a 45º bevel on the inside of escutcheon where wedge mates (fig. 5).
This will ease entry of the wedge pin.

FIG. 4
FIG. 4A

FIG 5
21

LYMAN GREAT PLAINS RIFLE
and GREAT PLAINS HUNTER
Weight: 9 Lbs./OAL: 50"

The rifle carried across the Great Plains by western pioneers and fur trappers was
the culmination of percussion firearms development. This “Great Plains” rifle
was designed and built by such famous makers as Hawken, Gemmer and
Demick to the specifications of experienced backwoodsmen. Only the best and
most reliable designs and finest workmanship were acceptable. Today, as in the
1800's, the experienced black powder shooter is looking for a very
special rifle. The Lyman Great Plains Rifle, with its graceful, yet sturdy lines, is
such a gun. The modern muzzleloader will appreciate its combination of
strength, reliability, accuracy and authentic good looks. It is truly a black
powder gun of remarkable significance.
Each Great Plains Rifle offers such high quality features as a 32", 1 in 60" twist
barrel for patched ball and hunting loads, double set triggers, Hawken style
percussion “snail” with clean out screw and reliable coil spring lock with correct
lock plate. All guns come with walnut stocks and darkened steel furniture. The
Great Plains Hunter features a 1 in 32" fast twist barrel for conicals or sabots.
Barrel and Sight Group

*Note: Breechplugs and barrels not sold
separately, only as factory-assembled units.

Components
Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
1
2
3
4
6
6a
7
*8
*8a
8b
9
10
11
11
12
13

6030263
6993102
6030137
6030134
6030120
6030101
6030121
NA
NA
6030176
6030123
6030124
6030125
6030191
6030216
6030217

Description

Dwg.
Pc. Mk.

Ramrod Spring Screw
Ramrod Clip Spring
Barrel Rib & Thimbles
Rib Screw
Cleaning Jag (.50 cal.)
Cleaning Jag (.54 cal.)
Tang
Breech Plug
Breech Plug (Flint)
Touch Hole Liner (Flint)
Cleanout Plug
Nipple 6 x .75mm
Tang Screw (rear)
Tang Through-Bolt (front)
Rear Sight Base
Rear Sight Pin

14
15
16
16a
16b
17a
17b
17c
17d
17e
17f
17g
17h
17i
17j
17k
17l
17m
17n
18
23

Part
Number

Description

6030218
6030219
6030220
6030099
6030227
6030221
6030222
6030198
6030199
6030272
6030274
6030276
6030278
6030266
6030267
6030268
6030269
6031108
6031109
6030223
6030224

Rear Sight Spring
Rear Sight Elev. Assy.
Rear Sight Adj. Screw
Adj. Rear Sight (complete)
Primitive Rear Sight (not shown)
Barrel (.50 cal.) per.
Barrel (.54 cal.) per.
Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint
Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint
L.H. Barrel (.50 cal.) perc.
L.H. Barrel (.54 cal.) perc.
L.H. Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint
L.H. Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint
GPH Barrel (.50 cal.) per.
GPH Barrel (.54 cal.) per.
GPH L.H. Barrel (.50 cal.) per.
GPH L.H. Barrel (.54 cal.) per.
GPH Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint
GPH Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint
Front Sight
Ramrod (10-32 Thread)

Stock and Lock Group

Components
Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
1
2
3
4
5
5a
5b
5c
19
20
21
22
22a

6030201
6030202
6030203
6030204
6030119
6030180
6993170
6993171
6030139
6030195
6011118
6030205
6030196

Description

Dwg.
Pc. Mk.

Butt Plate
Butt Plate Screws
Toe Plate
Toe Plate Screws
Lock Assembly
Lock Assembly (Flint)
L.H. Lock Assembly
L.H. Lock Assembly (Flint)
Lock Mounting Screw
Lock Screw Bushing (steel)
Escutcheon Screw
Wedge (front)*
Wedge (rear)*

24
25
26
26a
27
28
29
30
31
32
33

Part
Number

Description

6030206
6030207
6030208
6030270
6030209
6030210
6030211
6030212
6030213
6030214
6030215

Entry Pipe
Forend Cap
Stock
L.H. Stock
Escutcheon
Trigger Guard Screw
Trigger Guard
Trigger Assy. Mount Screw
Trigger Assembly
Forend Cap Pin
Entry Pipe Pin

*Note: The rear wedge is slightly longer than the front wedge and is installed
closest to the lock. Both wedges are installed from the right to the left. This is
true for right or left-hand rifles. Sights are also installed from the right to the
left. Sights are removed from the left to the right.
Note: Lock assembly for percussion and flintlock rifles shown on page 30.
Set Trigger Assembly
Your Great Plains Rifle is equipped with a limited adjustment set trigger system. This system
provides either a standard trigger for snap shots
while hunting or a more sensitive “set” trigger
for precision shooting.
Operation: To engage the set trigger pull the
hammer back to full cock, squeeze the rear trigger until a “click” is felt, then carefully aim and
press the front trigger. Be careful–don’t let the
light pull catch you by surprise! You may fire
the rifle without engaging the set trigger by
using only the front trigger.
Adjustment: Turning the adjustment screw
(51) clockwise will lighten the set trigger pull;
turning the screw counter-clockwise will
increase it. The range of adjustment is limited
by Lyman to prevent the set trigger from being
lightened to the point where we feel it would be
unsafe. Use common sense in this adjustment
and in the use of the trigger mechanism.

Components

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56

6030162
6030163
6030164
6030165
6030166
6030167
6030168
6030169

Description
Trigger Plate
Set Trigger
Adjusting Screw
Hair Trigger
Hair Trigger Spring
Trigger Pivot Pin
Trigger Main Spring
Main Spring Screw

LYMAN TRADE RIFLE
Weight: 8 Lbs./OAL: 46"

The Lyman Trade Rifle is patterned after the sturdy and functional guns
developed for the early Indian fur trade. Designed by such companies as
Henry and Leman, these original guns were much sought after by trappers,
Indians and other rugged wilderness survivors. These men wanted a basic
hunting gun that combined the best attributes of a hunting rifle without the
expensive frills of more ornate rifles. The Trade Rifle is designed to accurately fire both patch round ball and maxi style conical bullets. It features a 28"
octagon barrel with 1 in 48" twist, polished brass furniture, steel rib and blued
finish on all steel parts. The single trigger is spring loaded for positive tension. Each rifle includes both fixed "primitive" and elevation adjustable rear
sights. The optional 57 SML can be mounted without any modifications.
Barrel and Sight Group

Components
Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
4
4a
5
*6
*6a
6b
7
8
9
10
10a

6030120
6030101
6030121
NA
NA
6030176
6030123
6030124
6030125
6030227
6030099

Description

Dwg.
Pc. Mk.

Cleaning Jag (.50 cal.)
Cleaning Jag (.54 cal.)
Tang
Breech Plug
Breech Plug (Flint)
Touch Hole Liner (Flint)
Cleanout Plug
Nipple 6 x .75mm
Tang Screws
Primitive Rear Sight
Adj. Rear Sight (complete)
(not shown)

11a
11b
11c
11d
12
13
14
15
16
17
18

Part
Number

Description

6030228
6030229
6030240
6030241
6030223
6993102
6030263
6030138
6030137
6030134
6030143

Barrel (.50 cal.) per.
Barrel (.54 cal.) per.
Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint
Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint
Front Sight
Ramrod Clip Spring
Ramrod Spring Screw
Barrel Lug (factory installed)
Barrel Rib & Thimbles
Rib Screws
Ramrod (10-32 Thread)

*Note: Breechplugs and barrels not sold separate only as factory-assembled units.
24

Stock and Lock Group

Components
Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
1
2
3
18
19
20
21
23

6030115
6030116
6030119
6030139
6030140
6030141
6030142
6030144

Description
Butt Plate
Butt Plate Screws
Lock Assembly
Lock Mounting Screw
Lock Screw Bushing
Escutcheon Screw
Wedge*
Forend Cap Screw

Dwg.
Pc. Mk.

Part
Number

24
25
26
27
28
29
30

6030145
6030233
6030174
6030147
6030225
6030149
6030226

Description
Forend Cap
Stock
Escutcheon
Trigger Guard Screw
Trigger Guard
Trigger Assy Mount Screw
Trigger Assembly

*Note: The wedge is installed from the right to the left. Sights are also
installed from the right to the left. Sights are removed from the left to
the right.
Note: Lock assemblies for percussion and flint rifles shown on page 30.

Components

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
1
2
3
4

6993118
6993119
6993120
6993121

Description
Trigger
Trigger Plate
Leaf Spring
Spring Screw

Note: Trigger assembly as shown above is the same for both the
Trade Rifle and Deerstalker.

DEERSTALKER RIFLE
Weight: 7.5 Lbs./OAL: 41"

The Lyman Deerstalker is the ideal rifle for the muzzleloader whose primary
interest is hunting.
Like all Lyman black powder guns, the Deerstalker has an impressive collection of top-quality rifle features. The rich walnut stock is specially designed
with less drop for improved sight picture and includes a handsome rubber pad
to lessen recoil. The barrel and all metal parts are blackened to avoid glare.
Whether flint or percussion, all Lyman locks employ a rugged, reliable coil
mainspring. The barrel has a 1 in 48" twist which will handle a large range of
bullet types and weights.
The Deerstalker combines these traditional qualities with the modern features
that the serious hunter demands. Each rifle features a specially designed stock
with Lyman front and rear hunting sights for an improved sight picture. The
shorter barrel and lighter weight make it ideal for carrying on an all day hunt.
All hardware is darkened for low glare and all rifles come with sling swivel
studs and a handsome rubber pad to reduce recoil. The ultra quiet single
trigger is fast and efficient. Finally, all Deerstalker Rifles are factory
pre-drilled and tapped for an optional Lyman 57 Receiver Sight for the most
serious target shooter or hunter.
Barrel and Sight Group

Components
Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
1a
1b
2
*3
*3a
3b
4
5
6
7
8a
8b
8c
8d

*Note:

6030120
6030101
6993100
NA
NA
6030176
6030123
6030124
6030125
3090117
6993103
6993104
6993095
6993096

Description

Dwg.
Pc. Mk.

Cleaning Jag (.50 cal.)
8e
Cleaning Jag (.54 cal.)
8f
Tang
8g
Breech Plug
9
Breech Plug (Flint)
10
Touch Hole Liner (Flint) 11
Cleanout Plug
12
Nipple 6 x .75mm
12a
Tang Screw
13
Folding Leaf Sight (16AML) 14
Barrel (.50 cal.)
15
Barrel (.54 cal.)
16
Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint
Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint

Part
Number

Description

6993173
6993174
6993178
3090118
6030138
6993106
6030134
6030135
6010034
6993123
6030263
6993102

L. H. Barrel (.50 cal.)
L. H. Barrel (.54 cal.)
L. H. Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint
Front Sight (37 ML)
Barrel Lug (factory installed)
Barrel Rib & Thimbles
Rib Screw
Thimble Screws
Delrin Ramrod 25" (10-32 thread)
Plug Screw
Screw
Ramrod Clip Spring

Breechplugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory-assembled units.

Stock and Lock Group

Components
Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
14
15
16
16a
16b
16c
17
18
19
20

6993107
6993108
6030119
6030180
6993170
6993171
6993109
6993110
6030141
6993112

Description

Dwg.
Pc. Mk.

Butt Plate
Butt Plate Screws
Lock Assembly
Lock Assembly (Flint)
L.H. Lock Assembly
L.H. Lock Assembly (Flint)
Lock Mounting Screw
Lock Screw Bushing
Escutcheon Screw
Wedge*

21
22
23
23a
24
25
26
27
28

Part
Number

Description

6993113
6993114
6993115
6993172
6993116
6030147
6993117
6030149
6030226

Forend Cap Screw
Forend Cap
Stock
L.H. Stock
Escutcheon
Trigger Guard Screw
Trigger Guard
Trigger Assy. Mount Screw
Trigger Assembly

*Note: The wedge is installed from the right to the left. This is true for right
or left-hand rifles. Sights are also installed from the right to the left. Sights
are removed from the left to the right.
Note: Trigger assembly for Deerstalker same as Trade Rifle (shown on page 25.)
Lock assemblies for Lyman rifles shown on page 30.
Barrel Specifications
Suggested
Bore
Groove
Twist
Ball Dia.
Plains Pistol .50
.501"
.520"
1/30"
.490"/.495"
Plains Pistol .54
.541"
.560"
1/30"
.530"/.535"
Great Plains Rifle .50
.502"
.520"
1/60"
.490/.495"
Great Plains Rifle .54
.542"
.558"
1/60"
.530"/.535"
Great Plains Hunter .50
.502"
.510"
1/32"
*
Great Plains Hunter .54
.542"
.550"
1/32"
*
Trade Rifle .50
.502"
.520"
1/48"
.490"/.495"
Trade Rifle .54
.542"
.558"
1/48"
.530"/.535"
Deerstalker .50
.502"
.520"
1/48"
.490"/.495"
Deerstalker .54
.542"
.558"
1/48"
.530"/.535"
Deerstalker Stainless Steel .50 .502"
.510"
1/48"
*
Deerstalker Stainless Steel .54 .542"
.550"
1/48"
*
*Note: Recommend conical or sabots for this model.
Note: These are nominal specifications for general information only. The actual
dimensions of a given gun may vary several thousandths of an inch. It is often necessary
to experiment with several ball diameters and patch thicknesses to find the one best for
your application. If you have any questions concerning your gun, please note the serial
number of your gun and call/write Lyman Customer Service for verification.
All barrels are 15/16" across the flats.

DEERSTALKER STAINLESS

The Lyman Deerstalker Stainless model has all the features of the standard blued
model, but is made in corrosion resistant stainless steel. All major metal parts
such as the barrel, trigger guard, lock assembly, escutcheons, and wedge are
stainless steel for the greatest protection against black powder fouling and
weather. The Deerstalker stainless models uses a 1 in 32" twist barrel for
shooting conicals and sabots. Stainless parts have brushed finish to prevent glare.
Barrel and Sight Group - Stainless

Components

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
1a
1b
2
3
4
5
6
7
8a

6030120
6030101
6993300
6993123
6993301
6030124
6993302
3090117
6993303

Description
Cleaning Jag (.50 cal)
Cleaning Jag (.54 cal)
Tang
Plug Screw
Cleanout Plug
Nipple 6 x. 75mm
Tang Screw
Folding Leaf Sight (16 AML)
Barrel (.50 cal)

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
8b
9*
10
11
12
13
14
15
16

6993304
N/A
3090118
6993306
6993307
6993308
6993102
6993309
6010034

Description
Barrel (.54 cal)
Breech Plug
Front Sight (37 ML)
Barrel Rib & Thimble
Rib Screws
Thimble Screws
Ramrod Clip Spring
Spring Screw
Delrin Ramrod 25"
(10-32 thread)

*Note: Breechplugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factoryassembled units.
28

Stock and Lock Group

Components

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
1
2
3
4
5
6
7

6993107
6993108
6993310
6993311
6993312
6993313
6993317

Description
Butt Plate
Butt Plate Screws
Lock Assembly
Lock Mounting Screw
Lock Screw Bushing
Escutcheon Screw
Escutcheon

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
8
9
10
11
12
13

6993314
6993315
6993113
6993316
6993331
6993318

Description
Wedge
Forend Cap
Forend Cap Screw
Stock
Trigger Assembly
Trigger Guard Screw

LOCK ASSEMBLIES
Percussion Lock Assembly
(For Lyman Great Plains, Trade and Deerstalker Percussion Models)
The percussion lock on your Black
Powder Rifle is a near-perfect blend of
both old and new. The exterior is finely
finished and color case-hardened as were
the guns of 150 years ago.
Inside, the lock is a redesigned system
featuring a coil mainspring (42) instead of
the traditional leaf spring. This is a much
more durable mainspring, one that is
not prone to the breakage problems
encountered with the flat leaf springs.

Components
Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
38
39
40
41
41a
42
43
44

6030151
6030152
6030153
6030154
6993186
6030155
6030156
6030157

Description

Dwg.
Pc. Mk.

Part
Number

Bridle Screws
Hammer Screw
Bridle
Lock Plate
L.H. Lock Plate
Main Spring
Main Spring Plunger
Tumbler

44a
45
46
46a
47
48
48a
49

6993189
6030158
6030159
6993188
6030160
6030161
6993184
6011127

Description
L.H. Tumbler
Fly
Sear
L.H. Sear
Sear Plunger & Spring
Hammer
L.H. Hammer
Sear Screw

Note: Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the
stock. Wood damage will result if this is not done.

Percussion Lock Assembly–Stainless Steel

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
38
39
40
41
42
43

6993320
6993321
6993322
6993323
6030155
6993324

Description
Bridle Screw
Hammer Screw
Bridle
Lock Plate
Main Spring
Main Spring Plunger

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
44
45
46
47
48
49

6993325
6030158
6993326
6993327
6993328
6993329

Description
Tumbler
Fly
Sear
Sear Plunger & Spring
Hammer
Sear Screw

Flintlock Lock Assembly
For Great Plains, Trade and
Deerstalker Flint Models

Components

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
1
2
3
3a
4
5
5a
6
7
8
9
10

6030151
6030153
6030181
6993187
6030182
6030183
6993191
6030184
6030185
6030155
6030156
6030157

Description
Bridle Screw
Bridle
Lock Plate
L.H. Lock Plate
Frizzen
Frizzen Spring*
L.H. Frizzen Spring*
Frizzen Spring Screw
Frizzen Screw
Main Spring
Main Spring Plunger
Tumbler

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
10a
11
12
12a
13
14
14a
15
16
17
18
19

6993189
6030158
6030159
6993188
6030160
6030186
6993185
6030187
6030188
–
–
6011127

Description
L.H. Tumbler
Fly
Sear
L.H. Sear
Sear Plunger & Spring
Hammer
L.H. Hammer
Hammer Jaw
Jaw Screw
Leather**
Flint**
Sear Screw

Note: Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the
stock. Wood damage will result if this is not done.
* Not shown in illustration
**Not available from Lyman

LYMAN PLAINS PISTOL
Lyman's Plains Pistol recreates the trapper's pistol of the mid-1800's while incorporating the best of modern steels and technology.
All steel parts on the finished gun are polished and blued - except for the belt
hook. The percussion lock is hardened internally with a color-case hardened
lockplate and hammer on both the kit and finished gun.
Your Plains Pistol is designed to fire a tightly patched roundball accurately at
various charge levels. Do not shoot conical bullets, such as the “Maxi” or Minie
ball. The conical bullets are very heavy, compared to a patched round-ball, and
are very likely to slip towards the muzzle if the loaded pistol is carried on the
belt. The resultant space between bullet and powder could produce a bulged or
burst barrel under certain conditions.
Stock and Lock Group

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
1
1a
2
3
4
5
6
7
8

6030120
6030101
6011102
6011103
6030122
6030123
6030124
6011104
6011106

6011107

9
10

6011108
6011109

11
12
13
13a
14
15

6011110
6011111
6011112
6011113
6011114
6011115

16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25

6011116
6011117
6011118
6011119
6011120
6011121
6011122
6011123
6011128
6011129

Note: Breech plugs and barrels not sold
separately, only as factory-assembled units.

Description
Cleaning Jag (.50 cal)
Cleaning Jag (.54 cal)
Tang-Pl. Pistol
Tang Screw-Pl. Pistol
Breech Plug
Cleanout Plug
Nipple 6 x .75mm
Rear Sight-Pl. Pistol
Barrel (.50) Blued;
Pl. Pistol
Barrel (.54) Blued;
Pl. Pistol
Front Sight-Pl. Pistol
Barrel Rib w/attached
ferrule-Pl. Pistol
Barrel Rib Screw-Pl. Pistol
Ramrod-Pl. Pistol (10-32 thread)
Stock (finished)-Pl. Pistol
Stock (kit)-Pl. Pistol
Lock Assembly-Pl. Pistol
Lock Mounting Screw
Pl. Pistol
Belt Hook-Pl. Pistol
Lock Screw Bushing
Escutcheon Screw-Pl. Pistol
Wedge-Pl. Pistol*
Escutcheon-Pl. Pistol
Forend Cap Screw-Pl. Pistol
Forend Cap-Pl. Pistol
Trigger Assembly-Pl. Pistol
Trigger Guard-Pl. Pistol
Trigger Guard Screw-Pl. Pistol

Shooting Caution: Do not carry your loaded Plains
Pistol with a percussion cap on the nipple. This is
just as unsafe as carrying a single-action revolver
with a primed chamber under the hammer - even if
the hammer is on the safety notch.

*Note: The wedge is installed from the right to the left. Sights are also installed from the right to
the left. Sights are removed from the left to the right.
Percussion Lock Assembly

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
26
27
28
29
30
31

6030151
6030152
6011124
6011125
6030155
6030156

Description
Bridle Screws*
Hammer Screw*
Bridle-Pl. Pistol
Lock Plate-Pl. Pistol
Main Spring*
Main Spring Plunger*

Dwg.
Part
Pc. Mk. Number
32
34
35
36
37

6030157
6011137
6030160
6011126
6011127

Description
Tumbler*
Sear
Sear Plunger & Spring*
Hammer
Sear Screw*

*Interchangeable with lock parts from the Great Plains Rifle, Deerstalker and Trade Rifle.

Instructions for Lyman
Assembly Kits
INTRODUCTION
The materials provided in Lyman Kits have been selected for their overall
quality and durability. Proper assembly will enable you to create a muzzleloading firearm having the quality lines of an expensive custom piece.
Read these instructions thoroughly before you actually begin assembly.
There are several critical steps - and others that will save considerable time
within the instructions. Reading the instructions will give you a better understanding of the task and allow you to mentally sequence the events before
beginning work.
TOOLS REQUIRED
We recommend that you obtain a copy of Brownells Gunsmith Tool Catalog.
You will find this book to be a handy tool reference and a good source for the
material you cannot find locally.
Brownells Inc., 200 South Front Street, Montezuma, Iowa 50171
Carving Tools–The wood work required to complete this kit could be done
with ordinary hobby knives, but a set of wood carving tools will simplify any
carving required.
Rasps–You will need a straight rasp for rough shaping the exterior of the
stock to final dimensions. The "Surform" tools produced by Stanley will do a
satisfactory job.
Sand Paper–Grades 80 through 320.
Files– (1) 10 or 12 inch mill file
(2) 1/4 inch wide pillar file
(3) 1/4 inch three square file
Electric Drill and Bits–
(1) 3/32 inch
(2) 1/16 inch
(3) 1/8 inch
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS - INLETTING
The stock of your Lyman kit is, at least, 95% inletted. You will find that most,
if not all, the major parts will fit properly with no additional inletting required.
However, we have chosen to be very meticulous and present the inletting of
each part with greater detail and emphasis than is likely to be required.
Throughout these instructions you will be instructed to "blacken"the part prior
to inletting, then to look for the black transfer marks, indicating where excess
material is to be removed. These instructions refer to a technique where a part
is coated with a transfer agent (such as soot, Prussian Blue, lipstick or similar
substance) then inserted into the semi-inletted stock and lightly tapped into
place. When the part is removed, the transfer agent will remain on the stock
showing where wood is to be removed or the fit is perfect. If you have never
inletted a stock before, it is important for you to realize the presence of a black
transfer mark does not automatically indicate removal of material.
NOTE: CONSULT THE PARTS DIAGRAM IN THIS GUIDE AS NEEDED.
33

Example: Assume that you are inletting the lock assembly. After you remove
the lock for the first time you will note the black transfer marks in the cavity.
Little black will be apparent around the edges of the lock. Black marks will be
located within the cavity showing where wood is to be removed to allow the
working parts of the lock to fit. You will continue to coat the part with transfer
agent, reinsert it into the cavity, continue inletting gradually dropping the lock
into place. As the lock is lowered into position the edge of the lock plate will
come into contact with the stock. At this time you must proceed very slowly.
Wood is actually shaved from the cavity where the edge of the lock plate
meets the stock. When the lock plate is properly inletted, light transfer marks
will be apparent around the edges of the cavity. If these light transfer marks
were to be removed you would create gaps between the edge of the lock plate
and the surface of the stock, a condition that is not desirable.
There are two simple ways to obtain a suitable transfer agent.
One is to coat the part with soot from a smoking candle. The smoke from the
candle flame is played on the part. This technique is very effective when fitting metal to metal. Add a few drops of oil at the wick base if your candle
does not smoke enough. The second way to obtain a transfer agent is to purchase a bottle of “inletting black” from a gunsmith supply house.
KIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:
GREAT PLAINS RIFLE AND PLAINS PISTOL
The first step in assembly is with the barrel group. The barrel is to be partially
finished first so that it can be readily inletted into the stock.
1. Draw Filing the Barrel–Draw filing is used primarily to shave away the
tool marks left on the barrel by the precision milling operation; secondarily
to dress the patent breech to the barrel.
During draw filing, the file is held such that it makes a right angle with the axis
of the barrel (refer to Figure 1). Holding the file with both hands, it is lightly
drawn down the entire length of the barrel, shaving metal away as it travels.

Begin by securing the barrel in a padded vise and start draw filing the entire
barrel, one flat at a time. Start at the muzzle and draw the file towards you,
making sure that the file is held flat against the barrel. Do not allow the file to
rock side to side during the draw, as this will cause rounded edges.
Continue filing, one flat at a time, until each flat of the barrel is completely
free of milling tool marks, and the breech plug is flush with the barrel flats.
Take your time.
When the draw file has been completed, lightly oil the entire barrel to prevent
rust. The final polishing of the barrel will be done after all inletting has been
completed.
34

2. Fitting the Tang to the Breech Plug–The tang and the lug on the breechplug may require hand-fitting to provide the proper fit when the barrel is
hooked into position. The fit described below will assure a rigid barrel/stock
assembly that will promote excellent accuracy in the finished rifle or pistol.
Caution: This step is often unnecessary as it is factory fitted.
Surface “A”

FIGURE 2

Adjust fit until flats of tang meets flats of
breech plug. A slight amount of pressure to
make contact is desired.

You will note that when the tang is first installed onto the breech plug it may
not lie flat, in contact with the rear of the breech plug.
The idea now is to carefully file away the surface (“A”) of the breech plug
lug until the tang mounts flush with the plug with a small amount of pressure
applied. Over-cutting of the top surface will cause the tang to fit loosely and
may affect accuracy.
Blacken the entire surface of the projecting lug on the breech plug. Hook
the tang onto the lug. Remove the tang and examine the upper surface of the
lug. White marks (soot rubbed away) will indicate where excess metal is to be
filed away. Carefully file away excess metal, reblacken the lug and hook the
tang back into position. Repeat the filing and fitting process until the top flat
of the tang is parallel with the top flat of the barrel.
3. Inletting the Stock–The stock of your Lyman muzzleloader is a very
delicate piece of wood, and requires considerable care when metal parts are
fitted to it. Pressure incorrectly applied when inletting could well result in a
cracked stock.
The areas of the tang, barrel breech and the lock are particularly delicate.
Large amounts of wood have been removed from these areas to
accommodate hardware. These areas are very likely to be damaged if
improper care is taken during the inletting process. The following
instructions describe how to proceed during each critical step. With
reasonable care, good results will be obtained.
4. Inletting of the Lock Screw Bushing or Plains Pistol Belt Hook–The
lockscrew bushing should be inletted flush with the stock surface. Blacken
the underside of the bushing and press it into its stock cavity. Remove the
bushing and carefully cut away excess wood within the cavity. Continue the
process until the bushing is completely inletted and bottoms in the cavity.
NOTE: Should the bushing become stuck in position before inletting is
complete, it can be easily removed by inserting the lock screw into the
screw hole from the lock cavity side of the stock, and carefully tapping out
the bushing.
35

5. Inletting the Lock Assembly–First, draw the hammer back to full cock. Apply
transfer agent to plate edges. Position the lock over its cavity in the stock. Insert
the lock mounting screw and slowly tighten it, drawing the lock down into position. Draw down only until resistance is met. Remove the lock and examine the
cavity for black transfer marks. Carefully cut away excess wood.
NOTE: If you remove too much wood from the inner surface where the stock
and the edge of the lock plate meet, unsightly gaps will result. Remove only
small amounts of wood at a time. Do not over-tighten the lock screw when
drawing the lock into position. If the cavity has not been fully inletted, the lock
will act as a wedge and a cracked stock will result. Continue the inletting
process until the lock has been inletted to a point where the surface of the lock
plate is just above the surface of the stock. Final inletting will take place later.
6. Inletting the Tang and Barrel Assembly–Remove the forend cap from the stock.
Install the lock.
Hook the tang on the breech plug and set the entire tang/ barrel assembly into the
stock. Carefully note the position of the bolster (on the breech plug) with regard to
the circular cutout on the lock. It should align closely.
Inletting of the tang/barrel assembly must allow the bolster to fit into the
circular cutout on the lock when inletting is completed.
If further inletting is needed, blacken the underside of the tang and set it into
position, noting with a pencil mark. Carefully tap into place, then remove and cut
away excess wood. Continue this process until the tang has been inletted to 90%
of its depth in the stock. During the course of this inletting, periodically install the
barrel on the tang to check for bolster alignment with the lock.
Once the tang has been inletted to near full depth, proceed by inletting the barrel
and tang as an assembly. Blacken the undersides of both the barrel and tang. Cut
away any excess wood from both the tang area and the barrel channel until the
assembly is fully inletted, and the bolster makes contact with the circular lock
plate cutout. When this contact has been made, remove the lock and continue
inletting to full depth. The barrel wedge(s) can be inserted into the barrel tenon(s).
A slight amount of pressure should be required to insert the wedge(s). Note that on
the Great Plains Rifle the longer wedge should be installed closest to breech.
7. Final Inletting of the Lock and Barrel Assembly–Great Plains: Set the tang
and barrel into position, note the location of the two tang screws They should
line up with the holes in the tang. When complete, mount the tang in position.
Hook the barrel to the tang and install. Do not force the barrel down. You may
find that additional inletting behind the breech plug is required to clear the
breech hook, allowing the barrel to pivot.

Plains Pistol: Set the tang and barrel into position and, when complete, mount the tang
in position. The single tang screw goes through a pre-drilled stock hole and anchors in
a threaded hole in the top of the trigger plate. Make sure the screw aligns properly so
the tang screw threads won't be stripped. Hook the barrel to the tang and install.
Do not force the barrel down. You may find that additional inletting behind the breech
plug is required to clear the breech hook, allowing the barrel to pivot.
36

NOTE: Gap between lower barrel flat and bottom forend channel should not
exceed 1/16".
At this stage you should complete inletting of the lock to its full depth so the inside
shoulder of the lock makes solid contact with the side flat of the barrel, and the bolster of the breech plug fits properly into the circular cutout of the lock. Install the
lock assembly. Blacken the underside of the bolster and reinsert the barrel assembly
in the stock. The barrel may not go back into its fully inletted position.
If not, the interference will be caused by the bolster being slightly out of position
with the circular cutout of the lock (refer to figure 3). Remove the barrel and examine the underside of the bolster for interference marks. Carefully file away excess
metal on the bolster, using a rotation motion as you file. Repeat the blackening and
trial fit process until the barrel has been returned to its fully inletted position. Note:
Proper fit is achieved when there is a slight clearance between the bolster and the
circular cutout. At final assembly the lock must be able to be removed with the barrel in position.
Flintlock Note: The lock must contact flat of barrel to prevent priming powder from
collecting inside lock. If ignited, this powder will explode, ruining the rifle and
probably causing injury.
Install the barrel using the barrel wedge to hold it in place. Remove the lock assembly and blacken the underside. Continue the inletting of the lock until the inside
shoulder of the lock is in full contact with the side flat of the barrel. When the lock
has been fully inletted, carefully pull the hammer back to check for interference
with internal working parts. The lock should cock freely. If resistance is felt, examine the lock cavity to ensure that all rotating parts have clearance.
8. Inletting the Trigger Assembly–Blacken the underside of the trigger assembly. Insert the assembly to the rear of the trigger cavity. Remove the trigger
assembly and cut away excess wood. Continue the inletting process until the
trigger plate has been inletted slightly below the surface of the stock.
Locate the position of the trigger assembly mount screw. On the Great Plains
Rifle use the 1/16 inch drill to drill the pilot hole. Install the trigger assembly.
FUNCTION TEST: Make certain that the hammer is in the down position.
Check triggers for freedom of movement.
Great Plains Rifle–Set the rear trigger and release the set trigger by pulling on
the front trigger. If both triggers operate freely, you have adequate clearance.
If not, remove the trigger assembly, examine the cavity for black transfer marks
and cut away interfering wood.
Plains Pistol–Secure the trigger assembly by installing and tightening the tang screw.
9. Inletting the Trigger Guard–Great Plains: Use a mill file and carefully
remove any burrs from around the bottom edges of the two flats of the trigger
guard. The outer edges should be completely finished before inletting.
The exterior surface of the trigger guard can be finished later. Blacken the
underside of the two flats of the guard, and insert the guard into its cavity.
Remove and cut away excess wood. Continue the inletting until the trigger
guard has been inletted flush with the surface of the stock. Locate the position
for the two pilot holes and, using the 3/32 drill, drill the two pilot holes for the
trigger guard screws. Install the trigger guard.
Plains Pistol: Your Plains Pistol Kit has the trigger guard factory-installed.
No holes need be drilled by the builder and little, if any, inletting will be
necessary. However, some fitting of the trigger guard over the trigger assembly
may be necessary to permit the trigger guard to return to its original position,
flush with rifle stock.
If such fitting is necessary, spot and file the underside of the brass trigger guard
37
as needed.

The trigger guard should be left on the stock during all stages of wood shaping and
finishing. However, the correct fit is flush with the finished stock. After the stock has
received its final sanding, the trigger guard can be removed for final polish and later
installation on the stained and finished stock.
10. Inletting the Butt Plate (Rifles Only) and Forend Cap–Both the butt plate and
nose cap have been factory-installed to protect the exposed ends of the stock.
Additional fitting may be necessary for perfect fit.
Remove the butt plate and blacken the underside. Install. Then remove and cut
away excess wood. Continue this process until no wood-to-metal gaps are apparent.
Final fitting will take place when the stock is shaped. Note: In some instances, only
a minor amount of metal prevents an excellent fit. Judicious filing and spotting
often causes the butt plate to fit perfectly with little or no wood removal.
The forend cap is inletted in the same manner with an additional operation required.
Once the forend cap has been fully inletted, install the barrel. Note any interference
between the cap and barrel, and carefully file away excess cap metal. The cap
should not make contact with the barrel, a 1/64 inch gap is desirable.
11. Inletting the Escutcheons–Place the barrel in the stock. Each escutcheon is
inletted separately using the barrel wedge as a locating guide.
Blacken the underside of an escutcheon plate. Place the plate in position over its
cavity and insert the barrel wedge. Lightly tap the wedge down to hold the plate in
position. Do not overdo this or the plate will be deformed. Check the plate for
position and make sure the cavity is completely covered by the plate. Select a knife
with a small, thin blade and carefully cut a line around the edge of the plate. Use
only the point of the blade and position the knife so the cut is angled toward the
center of the plate.
Remove the plate and, using the knife cut as a guide, cut away excess wood directly
to the bottom of the cavity. Make certain the cuts stay slightly to the inside of the
knife scribe mark. Repeat the process for the second plate. Pilot holes are not
required for the escutcheon plate screws. Use the point of a knife or small nail to
locate the center of the hole and install the screws.
12. Finishing the Barrel–When the barrel has been completely inletted into the stock,
work may proceed with final finishing of the barrel. The draw filing operation is
now to be followed by successive passes of polishing with abrasive paper. First,
select a medium-coarse grit emery paper, followed with successively finer grits up
to 240 grit wet or dry paper. Wrap a piece of the grit around the file used to
draw-file the barrel. The draw-polishing is accomplished in the same manner used
to draw-file the barrel. Polish all flats, including the breech plug, until a satisfactory
polish has been achieved.
13. Metal Coloring–All steel fittings (except the lock and trigger assembly),
including the barrel, of your Lyman muzzleloader require some form of metal
finish, These may be polished with successively finer grades of emery paper or left as
is prior to finishing depending on the builder's taste.
Traditionally, rifles and pistols of this type had the “iron mountings” browned. The kit
builder may choose to cold blue these parts if he prefers a more modern type of finish.
Metal finishing can be accomplished by dismounting all the steel parts from the stock
and applying the metal finish according to the chemical manufacturer's instructions.
CAUTION: The ramrod thimbles on the Great Plains Rifle, and Plains Pistol are
soldered to the barrel rib in the same fashion as many originals. Since some browning
solutions require the use of heat, caution should be used to assure the part is not heated
enough to loosen the soldered bond.
38

Hot browning requires approximately 212 to 260 degrees and, therefore,
should present no problem if the kit builder is careful and tests the part
temperature often.
14. Sight Assembly–Install the front sight and rear sight by drifting each into
place using a brass or nylon punch so as not to damage them. These are
installed right to left.
15. Wood Finishing–The stock has been machined in the traditional style of
the period. However, sufficient wood has been left in most areas to allow
individual styling of your kit.
When you have shaped the stock to a point slightly above the surfaces of
any inletted metal parts, follow this operation with rough sanding using 80
grit paper. When sanding, follow the wood grain whenever possible. Final
sanding should be done using grits 100 through 240, in succession to
remove tool and sanding marks.
Sanding: When you have completely sanded the stock using 240 grit paper,
carefully examine the stock surface. It will be completely free from scratch
marks caused by rougher grits of paper. If all of these marks are not
removed at this time, they will show through the finish and detract from the
overall quality. When the stock has been completely sanded smooth, wet
down the entire surface with a damp cloth and raise the grain of the wood.
Let the stock dry and once again lightly sand the stock surface with 240 grit
paper. Sand off only the raised grain. Moisten the stock again and repeat
the process, only this time follow the 240 grit paper with a light sanding
using 320 grit paper. The stock is now ready for final finishing.
Staining: The European Walnut stock, as supplied, will finish to a nice
warm brown color if finished without the use of a darkening stain. The
wood of most old muzzleloading rifles and pistols was very dark in color.
Select a walnut stain and follow the directions provided with the product.
Stain the stock until you achieve the desired color. We recommend the use
of a water stain such as produced by the Birchwood Casey Co. These stains
can be found in most gun shops.
Sealing: The stock can be sealed by applying a commercial stock finishing
solution such as linseed or Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. Follow the
directions on the container.

IMPORTANT!
Be sure to read this Lyman User's Guide for Black Powder
Products–and other literature–packed with this kit. You must read
this material in order to use your Lyman muzzleloader in a safe,
responsible manner.
If you decide to sell, trade or loan your Lyman muzzleloader, be sure
the new operator receives the User's Guide. Free copies are available
from Customer Service if the original booklet has been misplaced.

Catalog Section

The Lyman Great Plains Rifle
A Tradition of Excellence

Lyman Great Plains Rifle
The rifle carried across the Great Plains by western pioneers and fur trappers was the culmination of
percussion firearms development. This “Great Plains” rifle was designed and built by such famous
makers as Hawken, Gemmer and Demick to the specifications of experienced backwoodsmen. Only
the best and most reliable designs and finest workmanship were acceptable. Today, as in the 1800’s,
the experienced black powder shooter is looking for a very special rifle.
No other factory assembled rifle or kit offers the authentic style and design of Lyman’s Great Plains
Rifle. This classic muzzleloader offers such high quality features as a 32" barrel with 1 in 60" twist
for patched ball and hunting loads, double set triggers, Hawken style percussion “snail” with clean
out screw, separate ramrod entry thimble and nose cap, and reliable coil spring lock with correct lock
plate. Available in .50 and .54 caliber flint or percussion. Factory assembled or kit form.

Great Plains Hunter with optional 57GPR & 17AEU Front Target Sight

Great Plains Rifle Flintlock

Lyman Plains Pistol
Lyman Plains Pistol recreates the trapper’s pistol of the mid-1800’s while
incorporating the best of modern steels and technology.
It’s the perfect companion to a Lyman black powder rifle. This percussion
pistol is loaded with quality features. The richly stained walnut stock
complements blackened iron furniture, polished brass trigger guard and
ramrod tips. The hooked patent breech takes down quickly and easily for
cleaning. Just like the originals, the thimble is recessed into the rib
and a detachable belt hook provides an alternative to a holster. A
spring-loaded trigger and fast 1 in 30" twist make it amazingly
accurate.
.50 Cal. Per (#6010608)
.54 Cal. Per (#6010609)
.50 Cal. Per “Kit” (#6010610)
.54 Cal. Per “Kit” (#6010611)

Great Plains Hunter
This is a special version of our Great Plains rifle with the hunter in mind. Called the “Great Plains Hunter”,
this new model features a fast, 1 in 32" shallow groove rifle barrel. It’s ideal for shooting the many types of
modern projectiles available to today’s black powder hunter, such as Lyman’s own ‘Shocker’ series of
bullets and sabots. The Great Plains Hunter has all of the high quality features of our Classic Great Plains
rifle. It is also also pre-drilled and tapped for the new 57 GPR receiver sight for the Great
0Plains rifle.
Finished Rifles
Great Plains Kits
.50 Cal. Per . . . . . . .#6031102
.50 Cal. Per . . . . .#6031111
.54 Cal. Per . . . . . . .#6031103
.54 Cal. Per . . . . .#6031112
.50 Cal. Flint . . . . .#6031105
.50 Cal. Flint . . . .#6031114
.54 Cal. Flint . . . . .#6031106
.54 Cal. Flint . . . .#6031115
Left Hand Rifles . . . . . . . . Great Plains Hunter
.50 Cal. Per . . . . . . .#6031125
50 Cal. Per . . . . .#6031120
.54 Cal. Per . . . . . . .#6031126
54 Cal. Per . . . . .#6031121
.50 Cal. Flint . . . . .#6031137
50 Cal. Flint . . . .#6031148
.54 Cal. Flint . . . . .#6031138
54 Cal.Flint . . . . .#6031149
50 Cal. Per(LH) .#6031142
54 Cal. Per(LH) #6031143

Catalog Section
New 32" Extra Great Plains Hunter Barrels
These barrels have 1-32" shallow groove rifling.* Ideal for
shooting conicals and sabots. Includes fitted tang for easy change over.
Available in:
50 Cal. 6030266 (Perc. only)
54 Cal. 6030267 (Perc. only
*Easy Drop in for converting Classic Great Plains to Hunter Model.

Great Plains Rifle Left Hand

Lyman
Black Powder Accessories
Unbreakable Ramrod
fits barrels up to 36"
Flint Frizzen
better spark
Rifle Flints 2-pack
Rifle Nipple 3-pack
(stainless)
Touch Hole Liner
Wedge Trade Rifle
Wedge Deerstalker
Wedge Great Plains

6010030
6030182
6030106
6030080
6030176
6030142
6993112
6030196

Upgrade Your Muzzleloader with Lyman Black Powder Sights
Lyman 57SML and 57GPR Receiver Sights
The most popular black powder receiver sight offers an immediate
improvement in accuracy for the target shooter or hunter. Features 1/4
minute micrometer click adjustments for elevation and windage, quick
release slide. 57SML fits perfectly on Lyman Deerstalker or Trade Rifle.
Other models may require minor drilling and tapping depending on
manufacturer. 57GPR fits Great Plains supplied with adapter.
Price: (4 oz.) 57SML(#3090114)
(4 oz.) 57GPR(#3090112)

Lyman #17 Front Target Sight
The ideal companion for the 57SML receiver sight, the 17 comes complete with a set of 8 interchangeable inserts. The 17AML fits low to the
barrel with a height of .494". The 17ATC fits rifles that use a tall vernier
type rear sight. The 17ATC has a height of .852". All 17's are machined
from steel and have a standard 3⁄8 dovetail. (Except 17AEU which has
European Dovetail for Lyman Muzzleloaders).
Price: 17AML (Ht .494") (#3090115)
17ATC (Ht .852") (#3090116)
17AEU (Eur. Dovetail) (#3171074)

57 SML
57 GPR

17 AML
17 ATC
17 AEU
(European
Dovetail)

16 AML
Rear
Sight

16 and 37 Hunting Sights
Tired of the same old traditional blade and buckhorn sights found on
most muzzleloaders? These quality Lyman hunting sights will make an
old gun shoot straight and true. Both have special .360 dovetail cuts that
fit most European imports. The 16AML folding leaf sight is fully
adjustable for elevation. The 37ML white bead front sight stands out in
low light conditions.
Price: #16AML (Ht .400-500) (#3090117)
Combination Set (#3090106)
#37ML (Ht .445) (#3090118)

37 ML
Front
Sight

Catalog Section

Deerstalker ™ & Trade Rifles

Deerstalker Stainless

Trade Rifle Percussion
Optional Lyman 17 Front Target Sight

Deerstalker Rifle
Lyman’s Deerstalker Rifle has quickly earned the reputation as one of America’s
most reliable, accurate and affordable hunting muzzleloaders. All Deerstalkers
have “Guaranteed” performance features such as a quiet single trigger, reliable
coil mainspring and high quality Lyman hunting sights. The 24” barrel with 1 in
48” twist is ideal for roundball or maxi hunting bullets. Parts are blackened to
avoid glare and a black rubber recoil pad mounted on the Deerstalker’s handsome
walnut stock, makes for comfortable shooting in either .50 or .54 caliber.

Deerstalker Stainless
The new Deerstalker stainless model is as handsome as it is functional. This highly
demanded rifle features true stainless steel on all of the major metal parts such as
the barrel, trigger guard, lock assembly, escutcheons and wedge. The Deerstalker
Stainless is available in percussion only and has a special 1 in 32" twist for shooting modern conicals.

Deerstalker Models
.50 Cal. Per
.54 Cal. Per
.50 Cal. Per Lefthand
.54 Cal. Per Lefthand
.50 Cal. Flint
.54 Cal. Flint
.50 Cal Flint LH
Deerstalker Stainless
.50 Cal. Per
.54 Cal. Per

#6033140
#6033141
#6033175
#6033177
#6033146
#6033147
#6033171
#6033185
#6033186

Lyman Trade Rifle
The Lyman Trade Rifle is patterned after the sturdy and functional guns developed for
the early Indian fur trade. Designed by such companies as Henry and Leman, these
original guns were much sought after by trappers, Indians and other rugged wilderness
survivors.
.50 Cal. Per
#6032125
.50 Cal. Flint
#6032129
.54 Cal. Per
#6032126
.54 Cal. Flint
#6032130

LYMAN BLACK POWDER PROMOTIONS
Congratulations. The purchase of your new Lyman Black Powder Gun qualifies you to participate in our current Black Powder Promotional Program.
You can now obtain selected Lyman Black Powder Accessories at special
promotional prices. To order, simply select the items of your choice which
are listed below and order using the order form on the reverse side of this
page. Please make sure to use the correct part number which is indicated next
to the product or in the Lyman catalog which comes with your gun. Any
question, call toll free 1-800-22-LYMAN for assistance.
Part #

Normal
Retail

Special Promo
Price

3090114
3090112

69.95
69.95

54.95
54.95

3662260

69.95

54.95

3572091

69.95

54.95

Lyman Black Powder Sights
57 SML Rear Target Sight
57 GPR Rear Target Sight
for Lyman Great Plains
66 MK Receiver Sight
(for Knight MK & BK Rifles)
57 SMET Receiver Sight
(for White Systems Rifles)
17 AML Front Target Sight
17 ATC Front Target Sight
(for Thompson Center)
16 AML Fold Down Hunting Sight
37 ML Front Hunting Sight
Combo Set (16 AML & 37 ML)

3090115
3090116

28.25
28.25

22.95
22.95

3090117
3090118
3090106

13.25
9.50
17.95

9.95
7.50
14.50

Black Powder Casting
Equipment
Mini-Mag Casting Furnace 110V
Lead Casting Dipper
Lead Ingot Mould
Lead Pot
Casting Thermometer

2800200
2867790
2837794
2867791
2867793

54.00
14.95
16.95
12.95
37.50

40.95
11.95
12.95
9.95
28.95

Part # in
Catalog

61.25

45.95

61.25
61.25

45.95
45.95

8.25
6.65

6.95
4.95

Round Ball Mould Blocks
(Single or double Cavity)
Maxi Ball Mould Blocks
Minie Ball Mould Blocks

Other Black Powder Accessories
Unbreakable Delrin Ramrod
6010030
Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine 02949

Offer Expires 12/31/04
43

44
Minimum Credit Card order $10.00

ADDRESS

Set of Item #

Item Name/Description (incl. caliber, dia, if appropriate)

Send Orders To:
Lyman Black Powder Promotion
475 Smith Street
Middletown, CT 06457

Orders may also be placed through our website at lymanproducts.com

SHIPPING &
HANDLING CHARGES
Under $10.00 . . . . . .add $4.00
$10.01-$50.00 . . . . .add $6.00
$50.01-$100.00 . . . .add $8.00
$100.01-up . . . . . . . .add $10.00
COD: Applicable charge will apply
Prices for continental U.S. only.
AK, HI, Canada, Foreign or COD:
Actual charges will apply

For Lyman questions, or to place an order, call toll-free 1-800-22 LYMAN (except foreign customers, who may call
(860) 632-2020). Hours: 9:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. Eastern time, Monday-Friday.

Page
No.

TOTAL

Price
Each

Please Keep a Copy
of Your Order

TOTAL AMOUNT

$1 for NRA Round-Up
(optional)

CT. RESIDENTS ONLY:
Add 6% Sales Tax

SHIPPING AND
HANDLING CHARGES

Qty.

Total

Auth #

Signature (Required if using credit card)

NOTE: Bullets and media orders subject to additional shipping charges

Expiration Date (Required)

❑ Discover

We will call if we have a question about your order: Daytime Phone

❑ Visa

STATE, ZIP

CITY

ADDRESS

(Account Number on Card)

Method of payment:
❑ Check ❑ MO ❑ COD
Credit Card:
❑ MasterCard

NAME

ORDERED BY: (Please print clearly)

ORDER FORM-Lyman Black Powder Promotion

Lyman Black Powder
Handbook & Loading Manual
Written by
Sam Fadala
Lyman introduces the Black Powder
Handbook that muzzleloaders have been
waiting for. This manual is entirely new,
from the ground up, and includes
thousands
of
pressure
tested
loads using Goex and Elephant
Black Powders, Pyrodex and
Pyrodex Pellets. We feature a
large assortment of bullets with down
range velocities and energies for each
load, all developed in our
ballistics testing lab. This manual offers
the ultimate in black powder loading and
shooting technology.
Sam Fadala brings his well known expertise to this work covering every
aspect of muzzleloading, soup to nuts. Mike Venturino offers a special
section on Cowboy Action and Black Powder cartridge.

It’s the one manual every
black powder shooter should own!
Lyman Products 475 Smith Street, Middletown CT 06457
Phone: (860) 632-2020 Fax: (860) 632-1699 www.lymanproducts.com

Visit our complete Lyman website at
www.lymanproducts.com

LIMITED WARRANTY
Your Lyman product has been produced under rigid standards of
manufacture and inspection. However, if your Lyman product is found to
be defective in material or workmanship within 1 year from date of delivery
to the first retail purchaser, we will repair or replace it without charge.
If you require service under this warranty, please complete the warranty
repair notice form below and deliver your Lyman product, together with
your completed notice form, postage or freight prepaid to our factory at the
address below. Your Lyman product will be repaired or replaced and
returned to you within 60 days of our receipt. In making any return of a
Lyman product to the factory, be sure that it is packed with proper care to
protect it from damage in transit.
We are sorry, but our warranty cannot apply to a defect which results from
misuse, abuse, neglect, accident or improper care, or if your Lyman product
has been altered or repaired by anyone other than our factory personnel.
Please complete and return to us the attached warranty registration card.
LYMAN PRODUCTS CORPORATION
475 Smith St., Middletown, CT 06457

WARRANTY CARD
Product _____________________ Date of First Purchase ___________________
Model No. __________________ Serial No. _____________________________
Dealer Name & Address

DETACH AND PLACE IN ENVELOPE
Mail to:

Lyman Products Corp.
Warranty Records Dept. BPUG
475 Smith St., Middletown, CT 06457
Lyman Products Corporation
Warranty Card
Please Complete All Sections

1. Mr.
Mrs.
Name

Street Address

4. Product Purchased
5. Date Purchased

2. Age
City

State

ZIp

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