Lyman User's Guide PDF Blackpowder

Lyman Black Powder Lyman Black Powder

User Manual: PDF T E X T F I L E S

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Lyman®

User’s Guide for

Black Powder Products

This booklet contains important how-to information on the use

and maintenance of black powder products and accessories

including:

• Flintlock and Caplock - How They Work

• Black Powder Loads and Specifications

• Shooting Tips–Round Ball and Conicals

• Basics of Bullet Casting

• Disassembly and Cleaning

The User’s Guide also includes detailed product information and

exploded parts diagrams for:

• Great Plains Rifle • Deerstalker Rifle

• Trade Rifle • Plains Pistol

Printed in U.S.A. (3-03) #6985043

Table of Contents

Black Powder Shooter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Special Product Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Some Words of Caution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Flintlock and Caplock–How they Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

How to Load—The Patched Roundball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-8

Shooting Tips—Choosing Ball and Patch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-10

How to Load—The Minie, Solid-Base Conical or Sabot . . . . . . . . . . . .10-11

Bullet Suitability Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Disassembly and Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Black Powder Loads & Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Shooting Tips—Black Powder Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15

Bullet Casting Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16-17

Sight Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18-19

Optional Lyman Blackpowder Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Black Powder Guns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Great Plains Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22-23

Trade Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24-25

Deerstalker Rifle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26-29

Lock Assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30-31

Plains Pistol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Instructions for Lyman Assembly Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33-39

Lyman Catalog Section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40-42

Promotions and Order Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43-44

Introduction

This publication has been developed to provide the fullest possible informa-

tion about Lyman muzzleloaders. Information contained herein-especially the

operational procedures of loading and cleaning–can almost always be used

when operating guns of another make.

Repair and Warranty Service

For factory warranty service or repairs, please direct your Lyman muzzleloader

as follows:Great Plains Rifle, Trade Rifle, Deerstalker, Plains Pistol

Dixon Muzzleloading, 9952 Kunkels Mill Road, Kempton, PA 19529

610-756-6271

(Dixon Muzzleloading is Lyman’s national warranty repair station for the guns designated.)

Attach a complete letter of information to the outside of the package and

package securely. Use sufficient cushioning material to prevent movement of

the gun in package during shipment. For minor non-warranty repairs, check

with gunsmiths in your area.

Contact Dixon only for warranty work.

Call Lyman direct for general technical

service information.

Lyman®

Dear Black Powder Shooter:

Congratulations on purchasing your new Lyman Black Powder Gun. All of our

black powder products are the result of extensive thought and testing. With

proper care, your new gun should bring you a lifetime of shooting pleasure.

Before firing your gun, there are a few precautions that should be followed.

Please read these instructions carefully.

1. If your new rifle is a flintlock, we have function tested the lock assembly,

flint and frizzen to ensure that it provides proper ignition. Therefore, please do

not be concerned with the resulting marks on the frizzen–it is simply a

reminder of our comprehensive factory inspection.

2. The barrel's bore contains a heavy duty preservative that may resemble

rusty oil. It is not rust! This preservative must be thoroughly removed before

firing to obtain maximum accuracy.

Directions:

A. Swab the bore with some form of solvent or penetrating oil

(example: WD-40 or Hoppe's #9). Let soak overnight.

B. Brush out the following day using a nylon brush wrapped with 00

steel wool or a brass brush (must be under bore diameter to prevent

bristles from jamming at the breech of the barrel).

C. Wipe out using soft flannel (avoid t-shirt material–it doesn't work

well using cleaning jag and has a tendency to stay down the bore).

The brass coloration you see is normal after cleaning.

3. The stock has been stained with oil leaving a dull finish.

As with all oil finished stocks, rubbing in additional thin coats of oil

(Linseed or Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil) will further enhance the finish and

protect the stock.

If you have any questions on these instructions, please call our customer

service department at 1-800-22-LYMAN (except AK, HI, CT and foreign who

may call 860-632-2020). We will be glad to provide whatever assistance

you require.

Sincerely,

Your friends at Lyman Products

SPECIAL PRODUCT INFORMATION–

PLEASE READ

Check List for Lyman Black Powder Guns

Upon opening the carton containing your Black Powder Gun you should find

the following items. Contents

Black Powder Model-Finished

Great Plains Rifle Stock

Great Plains Hunter Ramrod

Trade Rifle Barrel

Deerstalker Wedges (One for Trade & Deerstalker

two for Great Plains)

Primitive rear sight

(Trade & Great Plains)

Adjustable rear sight

(Trade & Great Plains)

Lyman 16AML & 37AML Sights

(Deerstalker only)

Cleaning Jag

Flint (Flint models only)

Great Plains Rifle Kit Stock

Great Plains Rifle Flint Kit Ramrod

Barrel

Wedges (One for Trade & Deerstalker

two for Great Plains)

Primitive rear sight

Adjustable rear sight

Cleaning Jag

Flint (Flint Models only)

Lock Assembly

Trigger Assembly

Trigger Guard

Bag Containing Assembly Hardware

Plains Pistol Finished Assembled Gun

Ramrod

Polybag Containing:

Cleaning Jag

Lock Screw Bushing

Plains Pistol Kit Stock

Barrel

Lock Assembly

Trigger Assembly

Trigger Guard

Ramrod

Bag Containing Assembly Hardware

Belt Hook

SOME WORDS OF CAUTION

1. All Lyman black powder pistols and rifles are intended for use with black

powder or Pyrodex only. Use of any other propellant can cause

serious injury to the shooter and damage to the firearm. Never use

smokeless powder.

2. Guard against overcharges. Follow the instructions and do not exceed

suggested charges in this booklet.

3. Wear safety glasses when shooting black powder firearms. Shatterproof

shooting glasses will protect the eyes from sparks, broken percussion

caps, hot gases, and lead fragments.

4. Protect your hearing. Use ear plugs or muffs when firing any firearm.

5. Be certain the projectile is seated firmly against the powder charge.

Any gap between the projectile and powder charge could cause serious

damage to the firearm and injury to the shooter. Hunters, in particular,

should check the position of the projectile in the barrel at regular

intervals when in the field. Decap/deprime before checking, though.

6. Use only non-synthetic cloth patching of suitable thickness when loading

round balls. Do not use Poly Patches or any synthetic wad with a round

ball. The ball can separate and act as a bore obstruction.

7. Never charge a muzzleloader directly from a powder flask. A sudden

powder ignition from a lingering spark could cause the entire flask to

explode. Instead, use an individual charge from a powder measure when

loading your Lyman gun.

8. Never smoke when handling black powder.

9. Before each shooting session, check your black powder firearm carefully.

10. Before relying on the half-cock position, make sure the hammer will

not fall when the trigger is pulled. Note: half-cock is not a “safety!”

11. While on the firing line, keep all black powder canisters closed.

12. Keep spectators to the rear of the shooter. Standing beside a

muzzleloader is not safe enough. Flames, hot gases and percussion cap

fragments may fly from the side of the firearm causing injury.

13. Keep clear of the muzzle, particularly during loading.

14. If the gun misfires, keep the muzzle pointed down range for at least a

minute before attempting to reprime it. There is always the chance a spark

is smoldering in the powder charge and the gun could fire at any second.

15. Treat unprimed flintlocks as loaded weapons. Sometimes the sparks of an

unprimed flintlock can fire the gun.

16. Use a non-flammable material to hold the flint in place. Cloth, cardboard

or canvas could hold a lingering spark which might set off the next

priming charge unexpectedly.

17. Store black powder and percussion caps in separate locations. Use their

original containers when possible. Caps are sensitive to static electricity,

percussion, heat and flame. Check local fire regulations before storing

black powder in the home.

18. Follow the basic rules of firearms safety when handling any black

powder firearm.

19. If you sell or give this Lyman black powder gun to someone else, give

him this booklet too. Copies of this booklet are available from Lyman.

FLINTLOCK AND CAPLOCK–HOW THEY WORK

The Flintlock

Today's flintlock evolved around 1600 in Europe and was the most efficient

lock for firearms use until the percussion system was perfected in the early

1800s. Even so, flintlock rifles remained in service in some of America's more

rural areas until, perhaps, the turn of the century.

Simplicity of operation typifies the flintlock since all the shooter must have is a

bit of priming powder and a flint for the hammer's jaws. This flint must be held

securely and wrapping it in a bit of leather or thin sheet of lead gives the upper

and lower jaws of the "cock" something to hold onto–and the flint as well.

The flintlock operates in the following manner: The hammer is placed on full

cock, the pan is charged with either 4Fg or 3Fg powder and the frizzen is

snapped down over the powder pan. Now the lock is ready for firing. Usually

the hammer is lowered to half cock unless the shot will be taken immediately.

To fire the gun, the hammer is brought back to the full cock position, the gun

raised and aimed–the trigger pulled. The hammer falls and the fireworks begin.

The flint strikes the face of the frizzen and this forceful scraping causes a

shower of sparks–which are actually tiny pieces of molten metal from the

frizzen face. These sparks drop into the powder pan and–usually–ignite the

charge of priming powder. The flash of the igniting primer charge travels

through the barrel's touch hole and ignites the main charge. In all cases,

successful firing is contingent on having a sharp flint tightly held in the ham-

mer, a clean hard face on the frizzen, fine dry powder in the pan, a clean touch

hole and main charge properly loaded in good condition.

That is how the chain of events should go anyway. Sometimes the main charge

decides to "play dead" and all the shooter gets is the poof of the igniting primer

charge ... hence the old saying of "flash in the pan."

The flintlock isn't perfect but the shooter can go a long way towards minimizing

most of the problems if he takes the time to understand the gun's needs. Here are

some of the major points:

Vulnerable Priming–Wind and water can cause misfires without too much

trouble. The solution lies in awareness of the problem and the possible use of a

waterproof hood which fits over the lock area. Bullet lube or grease applied to

the outer edge of the frizzen and powder pan will help to keep water away from

the powder. Flints should be clamped tightly in the hammer's jaws and replaced

when they are dull.

Pan Flash–This can be a real problem for any flintlock shooter since the

eruption of the priming is a very real and spectacular event! The shooter can

minimize this distraction by using priming powder sparingly.

Long Lock Time–Only practice and experience can teach the shooter to

control his particular gun.

To the uninitiated the combination of a heavy hammer striking the

springloaded frizzen (which snaps open adding yet another force to confound

aiming efforts) and the resultant “whoosh” of the igniting primer charge is

more than distracting. By the time the main charge goes off, the sights may be

way off target and the shooter's eyes screwed shut while he wonders when all

the commotion will stop!

The solution? Keep practicing. Get to know your flintlock and take care

of it. Wear shooting glasses for extra confidence and protection.

The flintlock is poised at full cock

and ready for firing. As the hammer falls, the leading edge

of the flint makes initial contact with

the face of the frizzen. The continuing

force of the hammer starts to rock the

springloaded frizzen back and up on its

pivot. Sparks generated here are minor

and probably offer very little to the

ignition process.

The hammer continues to fall and the

direct blow of the flint against the

frizzen changes to a heavy scraping of

the frizzen by the flint. This produces

a shower of sparks which start the

ignition of the priming powder.

The priming is fully ignited and the

main charge has just begun to burn.

Typically, there will be a certain

amount of the main charge pushed up

the barrel aways behind the ball before

the powder is consumed.

This Brown Bess was heavily

primed and the resulting eruption

has seriously distracted the shooter.

Remember–use a light priming

charge and wear safety glasses for

extra confidence and protection.

Bicentennial skirmishers use a shield

around the side of their powder pans

to prevent touch hole blast from strik-

ing the shooter to their right. All flint-

lock shooters should be extra careful

since this jet of gas is very hot and

can easily injure someone.

THE CAPLOCK

While the flintlock was a distinct improvement over the ignition systems it

superseded, it did have its problems and, as is usual, experiments were

conducted by a variety of people in America and Europe seeking an improved

replacement. After several not-so-effective alternatives had been tried, the

percussion system as we know it today was devised, proved and accepted.

This new system was relatively impervious to the elements and offered the

shooter faster lock time and less distracting primer ignition. The percussion

lock was widespread by the 1830's1840's.

The caplock is even simpler than the flintlock and is comprised of only three

functioning components: Hammer, nipple and percussion cap. It works like

this: With the gun loaded, the hammer is eased back to full cock and a small

copper cap is pressed down over the nipple. This little cap contains a dab of

fulminate sealed into the top. The cap is held firmly in place by the "skirts" or

sides which are sized to grip the outside of the nipple.

To fire the piece, the hammer is brought to full cock and released by the

trigger. The falling hammer hits home and crushes the fragile copper cap

between the recessed hammer face and nipple, exploding the fulminate.

The little spurt of flame is directed down inside the nipple along a flash

channel leading through the side of the barrel into the main charge–which is

then ignited.

The percussion system flourished only a few decades before the metallic

cartridge was perfected and accepted, completely replacing the caplock

system on all guns manufactured after the turn of the twentieth century–if not

before. Today it is the most preferred muzzle-loading ignition system on the market.

The percussion lock guns on today's market are very reliable providing the

nipple channel is kept open and dry and the main charge is in good shape.

Warning: Do not dry fire. This will damage the nipple.

HOW THE CAPLOCK WORKS

Draw the hammer to full cock. Firmly press a

cap down over the nipple after glancing down

the flash channel for obstructions. Lower the

hammer to half-cock if the shot will not be

made right away. Since your rifle is equipped

with a fly, the hammer sear must be lowered

past the half-cock notch and then brought back

up and into the notch. Half-cock is not a safety.

NOTE: If the cap fits a bit loosely squeeze the

sides, or skirts, a bit so they will grip the sides of

the nipple and the cap will stay securely in place.

Ease the hammer back to full cock when you

are ready to fire.

After firing the shot, leave the hammer down over the expended cap.

This restricts the flow of air through the barrel and helps smother any sparks

lingering after your last shot.

HOW TO LOAD ...

The Patched Roundball

Without a doubt, the most popular and widely used muzzle-loading projec-

tile is the patched roundball. This combination of a soft lead sphere and a

scrap of lubricated cloth is peculiarly American and has been with us ever

since its worth was proven prior to and during our Revolutionary War.

Over the years different styles of rifling have been devised and used with

some degree of success. Characteristics ran from extremely deep grooves to

relatively shallow ones; from two or three lands to eight or more.

Throughout this period and up through today the most constant single factor

has been the patch around the ball–that hasn't changed ... nor has the lead

ball, for that matter.

A roundball, whether fired from a rifle or a smoothbore, needs the patch to

take up the slack, called "windage", between the ball and barrel walls. A

properly fitted ball and patch will seal the bore and keep propellant gases

behind the bullet where they do the most good. At the same time the ball is

held rigidly in position and not allowed to wander from side to side as it

speeds towards the muzzle. In a smoothbore this means the ball leaves the

muzzle the same way each shot; it does the same in a rifle plus the ball is

stabilized by the rifling and given a high degree of accuracy.

Use of the patched roundball in a single-shot pistol is virtually identical to its

use in a long gun in terms of interior ballistics and loading operations.

Loading the patched roundball requires the same techniques regardless

whether the gun is rifled or smoothbore, flintlock or caplock. The following

preliminaries should be performed before the first charge of the day is poured

down the barrel:

Since oil and any other form of moisture is the enemy of the successful black

powder shooter, the bore and chamber area should receive a good cleaning

just before the gun is loaded. Run fresh patches down the barrel until they

come out clean and dry. Clean the flash channels of both flintlocks and

caplocks with pipe cleaners–pushing the flexible stem on into the barrel.

Next, while outdoors, place a #11 cap on the nipple of the caplock, hold the

muzzle near a blade of grass, bit of dust, etc. and drop the gun's hammer on

the cap. Detonation of the fulminate will cause a small but noticeable blast to

emanate from the muzzle moving the blade of grass or bit of dust. If the blast

does not manifest itself, the shooter must go back over the gun to clear away

the obstruction.

Finally, after all is clear, run a last clean patch down the barrel to catch any

freshly dislodged lubricant. Now the gun is ready to be loaded.

LOADING STEPS

1. Set the rifle's butt on the ground with the muzzle inclined in a safe

direction –well away from your body. Measure and pour the powder down

the barrel using an adjustable measure or pre-weighed charges.

2. Lay your strip of lubricated patching cloth (or pre-cut patch) over

the muzzle. Center the ball and press it into the bore until it is flush

with the muzzle. Tightfitting combinations can be seated by reversing your

ball starter and “rolling” it over the ball.

3. Cut the excess patching from around the ball. Specially designed patch

knives are ideal for this task although nearly any sharp object will suffice.

This is unnecessary for pre-cut patches.

4. Push the ball into the bore using your ball starter.

5. Seat the ball firmly on the powder with the ramrod. The desired ramming

stroke is smooth and uninterrupted. Jabbing or tamping the ball down the

bore may result in serious deformation or uneven seating force upon the

charge. Make sure the ball is firmly seated since an air space could cause a

bulged barrel–or worse. Marking your ramrod at the appropriate level is a

handy trick. Return the ramrod to the thimbles.

6. Place the hammer on full cock and prime your piece–either with powder or

#11 percussion cap. You are ready to fire. Lower the hammer to half-cock

if the shot will not be made right away. Since your rifle is equipped with a

fly, the hammer sear must be lowered past the half-cock notch and then

brought back up and into the notch. Half-cock is not a safety.

SAFETY NOTES

Caplocks: After firing leave the hammer down over the exploded cap as you

reload. This helps smother any sparks left from the preceding shot. Keep your

hands and face away from the muzzle.

Flintlocks: Before squeezing the trigger at the range, check to your sides and

make sure your buddy is not standing in line with your barrel's touch-hole.

When a fully loaded flintlock goes off there is a jet of hot gas that shoots out

from the side and leaves its mark on unwary bystanders. Warn your

companions and take extra care before squeezing the trigger.

Be sure there is no gap between the lockplate/priming pan and the barrel flat

beneath the vent hole. Fine priming powder can work through a gap,

accumulate in the lock mortise and, when ignited, cause gun damage and

injury to the shooter and bystanders. Periodically remove and clean both the

lock and the stock's lock mortise.

All Misfires: Should your gun fail to fire . . . keep the muzzle pointed in a

safe direction until the chance of a hangfire has passed and you are satisfied

the charge is truly "dead". Next, inspect the nipple and/or vent, remove any

obvious obstruction, reprime and try the shot again. If the charge continues to

balk, you may have to work some fine powder into the nipple or vent with

your pick, reprime and shoot. At worst, it may be necessary to have a

gunsmith dismantle the rifle, unbreech the barrel and drive out the load.

Balls Seated Without Powder: This seems to happen to everyone at one

time or another. It may be necessary to use a “worm” or similar device–but

before you go to those extremes try this: Work some fine powder into the

flash channel, prime and shoot. Work more powder into the channel and

barrel, seat the ball, prime and shoot. This should do it.

SHOOTING TIPS ...

CHOOSING BALL AND PATCH

Accuracy with a roundball rifle is based on a paradox; an underside ball is spun

by rifling that it never touches! The secret, if there is one, lies in the cloth patch.

It functions as a gas seal and, theoretically at least, completely seals the bore.

It also transfers to the ball the grip and the spin of the rifling. To perform its

duties, the cloth patch should fill the grooves of the rifle. In other words, it

should be under considerable compression not only where it contacts the lands,

but also at the bottom of each groove. A tight fitting combination of patch and

ball is an absolute must for accuracy and considerable cloth must be packed

into each groove to completely seal the bore.

Your selection of the proper cloth patching should he based on an

understanding of the relationship between the bore of your rifle and the

roundball which will be used. Ball diameter must be less than that of the bore

and the cloth must not only fill the grooves but also allow a tight sliding fit

between the lands and the patched ball. Follow the suggestions of your rifle's

manufacturer concerning projectile diameter. Several companies make

specific diameters available either with the purchase of the gun or as a

component in a valuable accessory kit. Most other guns will have standard-

ized bore sizes and will be suited for one of the standard roundball diameters

such as .490", .495", .530" or .535". To make your final judgment on ball and

patch you must measure the bore.

The best way to measure the bore of our rifle is with a soft lead slug which

has the rifling engraved on its diameter. Remove the barrel from the stock.

Slide a brass rod, which is about 12" long and just under bore diameter (about

3/8" or 7/16"), into the barrel. Start an oversized slug into the muzzle and

drive it into the barrel approximately 2" using a brass punch. Now tip the

muzzle end of the barrel downwards so that the brass rod slides into the slug.

Repeat this procedure several times until the rod drives the slug from the

barrel. The engraved slug will have a perfect print of your bore's dimension.

Now, with a micrometer, measure both the bore and groove diameter.

Here's a sample:

Groove - .526, Bore - .503"

Incorrect

Correct

When a perfectly patched roundball is

driven through a barrel, it will show

cloth marks completely around its

circumference, like the ball on the right.

These marks will be light where the ball

and patch touched the grooves and

heavy where they touched the lands.

We know the ball must be smaller than the bore diameter so let's select a

.498" diameter ball as the best choice for this bore.

With the ball adequately undersize (.005") to fit into the bore we now deter-

mine the needed patching thickness to seal the grooves.

Groove .526"

Ball -.498"

.028" difference

Now divide the difference by two and the minimum patching thickness is

determined: .014". Remember, there is a thickness of patching on each side of

the ball and the difference between the ball and groove diameters must be

halved to determine the thickness of cloth needed. Usually it is better to buy

cloth that is several thousandths of an inch thicker since the lubricated material

will compress upon loading.

Now that you're on the way–keep experimenting with your rifle. Vary the

powder charge, cleaning technique, patching or whatever. That's part of the

fun of muzzle-loading. But remember to vary only one condition at a time so

you can easily keep track of cause and effect.

Lyman suggests that only natural-fiber cloth be used for patching; not

synthetics or natural/synthetic blends. The heat of ignition can melt some

synthetics resulting in inaccuracy and deposits in your bore. Furthermore,

Lyman suggests that plastic cups or patching systems not be used since there

can be inadvertent misuse which results in unsafe shooting conditions. Stick

with the traditional cloth patch.

HOW TO LOAD ...

The Minie, Solid-Base Conical, or Sabots in a Rifle

As for every muzzle-loading gun, there are several operations the wise shooter

performs before pouring the first powder charge down the bore. First, he dries

the bore and chamber area with clean patches and removes any oil

accumulation visible in the nipple and vent. Next, the shooter will snap one or

Groove Dia. .526"

Bore Dia. .503"

Ball Diameter

Must Make Some

Allowance for

Patch Thickness

at Lands

Patch should be thick enough

to seal both lands and grooves.

Patch thickness is related

to depth of the rifling.

two caps on the nipple to make sure the channel from the nipple through the

barrel wall is open. For a quick visual verification place the muzzle near a leaf,

blade of grass or similar object–cap blast will noticeably move it around if the

vent is clear. Finally, run the patch down the bore one last time to collect any

new debris. Now, you're ready to load and here's how it goes:

Set the gun's butt on the ground with the barrel angled so the muzzle is well

away from your body.

Pour the measured charge down the barrel. Many shooters use pre-measured

charges loaded into cardboard or plastic tubing. The important thing to

remember is not to load directly from a flask or horn. There have been instances

where an ember from the preceding shot has remained alive long enough to

ignite the next charge as it is dropped down the barrel. The resulting flash

touched off the powder within the flask, causing serious injury to the shooter.

Use a separate measure.

Conical or Minies

Push the lubricated conical, base-down, into the bore, place the recessed

ramrod head over the nose and smoothly ram it home. Strive for a smooth

motion that leaves the bullet seated atop the powder without air space or

undue compression. Try to avoid jabbing or tamping the bullet for this may

cause the skirt/base to become deformed, which will certainly have an

adverse affect on the projectile's accuracy. Remember, unless the bullet is

seated fully and correctly, an air space may result–and that could mean a

bulged or split barrel. Uniformity in loading is the secret to good

marksmanship when shooting a Minie or solid-base conical.

Conicals can shift off the powder charge and down towards the muzzle if you

carry the gun in even a slight barrel-down position. Hunters are particularly

exposed to this and should take special precautions: Stop frequently,

deprime/decap and use your ramrod to reseat the conical. Afterward,

reprime/recap and continue hunting.

Sabots

Sabot bullets are designed to be seated with the bullet inside of the sabot.

Never seat the sabot and bullet separately! Place the base of the sabot with a

bullet into the muzzle of the rifle and align it as straight as possible with the

bore. Using a ball starter, drive the sabot and bullet several inches into the

barrel. Use the recessed end of the ramrod to drive the sabot and bullet the

rest of the way down the barrel. Try to do this smoothly and firmly, seating

the base of the sabot against the powder charge. Uniformity in loading is key

to good accuracy.

Bring the hammer to full cock and press a percussion cap firmly over the

nipple–you’re ready to fire. Lower the hammer to half-cock if the shot will

not be made right away. Since your rifle is equipped with a fly, the hammer

sear must be lowered past the half-cock notch and then brought back up and

into the notch. Half-cock is not a safety.

After firing, leave the hammer down over the exploded cap as you reload.

This restricts air circulation and helps smother any sparks left behind by your

preceding shot.

Remember–avoid having your hands or face directly over the muzzle

during the loading operation. After the gun is loaded follow the safety

rules used for modern firearms.

CONICAL BULLET SUITABILITY CHART

1. Bullet No. 454616–Popularly known as the "Maxi-ball," this bullet is

designed specifically for the T/C Hawken with 1/48" twist and nominal

bore diameter of .45".

2. Bullet No. 457121PH–Designed for Navy Arms Parker-Hale Volunteer

rifles with 1/20" twists. Casts a nominal .456/.453" diameter in pure

lead.

3. Bullet No. 504617–Designed for the Lyman Trade Rifle, Deerstalker,

T/C Hawken and other rifles with nominal .500" bore and 1/48" twist.

4. Bullet No. 508656–This is the .50 cal. version of our new Plains bullets

which offer greater bearing surface areas for improved accuracy. It also

features a two diameter design for easy loading. Fits most traditional .50

cal. muzzleloaders.

5. Bullet No. 508668–This is the .50 cal. version of our new Shocker

bullets. The two diameter design makes loading easy and the heavy

weight provides excellent knock down power. This bullet works best

with fast twist barrels. Available as a mould or as packaged bullets

6. Bullet No. 548669–This is the .54 cal. version of our new Shocker

bullets. Like the .50 cal. design, this bullet loads easily and is an excel-

lent choice for hunting. It is designed for fast twist barrels, such as the

Lyman Great Plains Hunter. Available as a mould or as packaged bullets.

7. Bullet No. 548657–This is the .54 cal. version of our new Plains bullets.

Like the .50 cal. design, this is a two diameter bullet with a greater

bearing surface area than common Maxi bullet designs. Fits most

traditional .54 cal. muzzleloaders.

8. Bullet No. 575213–The standard of .58 shooters. Fits any .58 gun on the

market today. Does well with charges up to 70 grains FFg.

9. Bullet No. 575213PH–This is the same bullet as the 510 gr. 575213, but

with a shallow base plug which increases the bullet's weight to 566

grains. Designed for Navy Arms .58 cal. Parker-Hale rifles.

10. Bullet No. 577611–This bullet takes up where the 213 leaves off at 70

grains of FFg. Fits any .58 gun on the market today a bit tighter and gun

will require cleaning more often.

.45 .50

454616

220 gr. 457121PH

Conical

475 gr.

504617

370 gr. 508656

MAXI

395 gr.

508668

Shocker

420 gr.

MUZZLELOADING RIFLES

.54

.58 Orig. & Replica– 58 cal. Rifled Musket

548657

MAXI

450 gr.

575213

OS, MINNIE

460 gr.

Old Style

548669

Shocker

450 gr.

575213PH

MINIE

566 gr.

577611

MINIE

540 gr.

MUZZLELOADING RIFLES

DISASSEMBLY AND CLEANING OF

RIFLES AND PLAINS PISTOL

You must clean your rifle or pistol after each shooting session to prevent rust

and corrosion from damaging the metal parts. The Lyman Great Plains Rifle,

Trade Rifle, Deerstalker or Plains Pistol may be easily disassembled for

cleaning by removing the ramrod, driving out the barrel wedge in the fore-

arm, drawing the hammer to full cock and lifting the barrel (muzzle first) out

of stock. The hooked breech will slip right out of the tang unit with no further

disassembly needed. Of course, these Lyman guns can be cleaned without any

disassembly but care should be taken to prevent water and solvents from

entering the stock or lock mechanism.

TWO CLEANING TECHNIQUES:

HOT SOAPY WATER–The traditional way to clean a muzzleloader.

1.Scrub the bore with a strong solution of hot soapy water. Wipe all powder

fouling from other metal parts.

2.Flush the barrel with the hottest clean water available. This not only

removes the soap but also heats the steel which helps in the drying process.

3.Dry all parts.

4.Apply a good coat of oil or moisture-displacing lubricant to all metal parts

and reassemble. A silicone gun rag is excellent for treating the exterior of

the muzzleloader.

5.Inspect for the next few days just to be safe.

MODERN SOLVENTS–Just as effective as soapy water if properly done.

Solvents designed specifically for black powder guns are now on the market

and the old standbys may be used as well.

1.Scrub the bore with brass brush and lots of patches. Wipe down all metal

parts.

2.Using plenty of clean patches, wipe the bore dry. All guns are supplied

with a cleaning jag of the proper size. The jag screws into the end of the

ramrod and will securely hold cleaning patches. Dry all metal parts.

3.Apply oil to all metal parts and reassemble. A silicone gun rag is excellent

for treating the exterior of the muzzleloader.

4.Inspect for the next few days just to be safe.

Cleaning Note

Note: The powder channel inside the breech plug is smaller than the bore

diameter and does not allow the cleaning jag to enter. Lyman recommends the

use of a .35 cal. cleaning brush and/or a slotted tip cleaning rod to reach into

this area.

Maximum Loads

Lyman Black Powder Guns

The following loads are maximum combinations of propellant and projectile

for Lyman Black Powder guns. Do Not Exceed!

Plains Pistol

.50 - .495" RB 40 grs. 3Fg

.54 - .535" RB 50 grs. 3 Fg

Rifles

.50 .495" RB 110 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg

240 gr. Sabot 100 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg

335 gr. Sabot 100 grs. 2Fg or 80 grs. 3Fg

420 gr. Maxi 100 grs. 2Fg or 80 grs. 3Fg

.54 .535" RB 120 grs. 2Fg or 100 grs. 3Fg

335 gr. Sabot 110 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg

450 gr. Maxi 110 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg

Round Ball Selection Guide

.50 cal. .490"/.495" .54 cal. .530"/.535"

Note: Equivalent loads of Pyrodex RS, Select, or P are acceptable.

Pyrodex pellets are not recommended with Lyman side hammer guns

due to difficult ignition.

Lyman®

Our new Shocker

Black Powder bullets are

guaranteed to out per-

form the competition.

The unique tapered

design allows easy

loading. Lubricated with

new Lyman Black

Powder Gold assures a

perfect gas seal for best

accuracy. Semi-pointed design gives higher velocity and energy

to take big game quickly and cleanly out to .125 yards for total

performance get Lyman’s Shockers.

“SHOCKING PERFORMANCE”

Lymans New

Shocker™Muzzleloading Bullets

The Innovators in Lead Bullet Design.

Dept. 000. 475 Smith St. Middletown, CT 06457

Questions? Call toll free 1-800-22-LYMAN

SHOOTING TIPS

Black Powder Guide

Note: This chart is intended as a guide to show the appropriate uses of

Pyrodex and Black Powder. It is not necessary to follow them exactly.

FFFFG

Commonly called “Four F”, this is the finest

granulation and is used for priming flintlocks.

Due to its rather limited use, it is usually

somewhat difficult to obtain. When necessary,

FFFG may be substituted. There is no

Pyrodex equivalent.

FFFG/Pyrodex “P”

Commonly called “Triple F”, this powder is

used in most single shot pistols and all

percussion revolvers. It is also popular for all

smaller caliber rifles up to and including 50

caliber. When FFFFG is not available, FFFG

may be used to prime a flint lock.

FFG/Pyrodex “RS” and “Select”

Commonly called “Double F”, this is a popular

powder for rifles over 50 caliber and up to 75

caliber. Also used in the larger caliber single

shot pistols and most shotguns.

Commonly called “Single F”, this is the

coarsest granulation used for small arms. Use

is pretty much restricted to rifles over 75 caliber

and large bore shotguns. There is no

Pyrodex equivalent.

FFFFG

FFFG

FFG

REDUCING EXPOSURE: Lead contamination in the air, in dust, and on

your skin is invisible. Keep children and pregnant women away during use

and until cleanup is complete.

Risk can be reduced-but not eliminated-with strong ventilation; washing

hands immediately after use of these products before eating or smoking; and

careful cleaning of surfaces and floors with disposable wipes, after lead dust

has had a chance to settle. Use a lead specific cleaner with EDTA, or a high-

phosphate detergent (like most detergents sold for electric dishwashers) and

bag used wipes for disposal.

Use Strong Ventilation

WARNING: Melting lead and casting lead objects

will expose you and others in the area to lead, which

is known to cause birth defects, other reproductive

harm and cancer.

GETTING STARTED IN CASTING

Making the move into bullet casting is easy and relatively inexpensive,

especially considering the satisfaction and enjoyment you will receive by

moulding your own minie, maxi and round balls. In addition, the increased

per-shot economy will quickly defray the cost of the casting equipment. As a

muzzleloader, your start-up costs will also be reduced since you will not need

to purchase sizing and lubricating equipment.

CASTING ACCESSORIES

Lyman offers a complete line of bullet casting accessories including casting

furnaces; minie, maxi and round ball moulds and most other casting

equipment. For the muzzleloader who is just starting out in casting, we

recommend our Mini-Mag Furnace. This 400 watt furnace is designed to

perfectly fill the needs of the black powder shooter. In about 30 minutes, this

furnace will bring 8 pounds of lead up to casting temperature.

For a complete listing of all Lyman's casting equipment, please see our

current catalog which is available by writing to:

Lyman Products, 475 Smith St., Middletown, CT 06457

or call 1-800-22-Lyman.

BULLET CASTING BASICS

The blackpowder shooter is almost always faced with the need to cast his

own bullets, be they round, conical or minies. A bullet mould is absolutely

necessary and generations of shooters have used–and continue to use–Lyman

precision bullet moulds. Other needed supplies include pure lead, melting pot,

ladle, fluxing substance, hammer handle/mallet and towel or blanket.

Caution: If you are melting lead on the kitchen stove, exercise care to avoid

lead contamination of stove, food and food preparation and serving utensils.

First carefully clean all oil and grease from your mould, both the cavity and

the precision-ground block faces. Now the mould is ready for casting.

Second, prepare your molten lead, flux and skim off the impurities. When

the molten lead is properly cleaned it will be a bright silver.

Caution: Breathing or ingestion of lead or vapors constitutes a potentially

serious health hazard.

Third, place your ladle in the pot and let it heat to the lead's temperature.

Now arrange your towel to cushion the newly cast bullets as they drop from

the mould and place the hammer handle or mallet close by.

You're all set.

Pour molten lead from the ladle into the mould in a rapid continuous manner.

Don't interrupt the pour or an imperfect bullet will result. The first few bullets

will be flawed regardless of your expertise because the mould itself needs to

be brought up to proper temperature. This can best be done by actually

casting bullets and returning them to the melting pot.

As you finish pouring each bullet, grasp the mallet and strike the sprue cutter,

slicing through the lead in the pouring hole just above the bullet's surface.

Caution: Don't drop sprue or flawed bullets directly from the mould into the pot.

Molten lead splashes easily. Periodically–and gently–return the scraps to the pot.

Lower the mould close to your towel and open the handles. The bullet should

drop freely to the pad. If it doesn't–especially after casting for a while–it may

well be overheating and due for a minute's rest!

After you've prepared the desired quantity of bullets be sure to close the

mould and position the sprue cutter as if you were about to pour. This will

allow the mould to cool with both blocks in perfect alignment. After the

mould has cooled, oil it well as it is especially susceptible to rust after the

lead has driven out most moisture. The mould will draw moisture from your

home –similar to a dry sponge.

The smart caster is well-protected from splashes of molten lead by gloves

and eye protection and works in a well-lighted and well-ventilated room.

SIGHT ADJUSTMENT

Lyman Muzzleloaders

Lyman's Great Plains and Trade Rifles are shipped with two types of rear

sights. The shooter can choose the style preferred and save the other as a

spare.

Front Sight–The sights on these rifles are a combination of traditional

appearance and sighting principles proved in more modern times. The front

sight is a strong, one-piece, square blade design finished overall in a dark

blue/black.

This dark, thick blade permits close holding and fast sight alignment. Blades

which are polished brass or silver cause the shooter to "shoot away from the

light" due to glare on the blade.

The front sight may be left “as is” or reduced in height, by filing, to raise the

point of impact.

Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sight after filing.

Adjustable Rear Sight–This traditional buckhorn rear sight allows minor ele-

vation adjustments without filing. Turn the screw clockwise to lower the

point of impact; counterclockwise to raise the point of impact. Windage

adjustments are made by carefully "drifting" the entire rear sight left or right.

Remember: move the rear sight in the direction you wish the ball to go.

The best way to “set up” this sight for both hunting and recreational shooting

is as follows:

1.Turn the elevation screw clockwise until the elevation arm bottoms in the

full “down” position.

2.Load rifle with your hunting charge and sight in at desired hunting range

perhaps 100 yards. File down front sight until the rifle shoots to exact point

of aim.

3.Since recreational shooting usually involves circular bullseye targets, the

rifle can usually be brought into the “ten ring” by using a six o’clock hold

and raising the elevator arm slightly.

The front and rear sight combine to produce the very efficient “Patridge”

sighting configuration which is perfect for most hunting and target shooting.

Primitive Rear Sight–This is a traditional one piece, fixed sight which allows

final shape and elevation adjustments to be filed into it by the shooter.

Windage adjustments are made by tapping the rear sight to the left or right as

you wish the bullet’s impact to shift.

Finished Sight

First, determine what charges work best with ball and conical projectiles.

Once you have settled on the bullet and charge level, the filing can begin.

You may find the unaltered rear sight is just fine. However, you may

discover that you are shooting high–even with the front sight blade buried in

the rear sight notch. If that is the case, then here's what you do:

1.File the top of the sight flat until you reach the correct elevation for your

selected load. The correct procedure is to file a bit then shoot; file–shoot

and so forth until the rifle shoots to the desired point of impact.

2.With the sights set correctly, now is the time to deepen or widen the rear

sight notch if you wish. Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sight.

The result is a traditional rear sight which utilizes the very practical and

efficient “Patridge” configuration–excellent for hunting or target work.

PLAINS PISTOL

The sights are non-adjustable and the front blade must be filed to adjust the

elevation. Windage adjustments may be made by “drifting” the rear sight in

the direction you wish to move bullet impact.

The rear sight notch width and front blade width are designed to provide a

very fine target sight picture. You may widen the rear notch with a jeweler's

file if you wish. Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sights after filing

to eliminate glare.

DEERSTALKER RIFLE

Front Sight–A special new configuration of Lyman #37 hunting front sight

designed to fit the dovetail of Lyman Black Powder Rifles. This sight is

equipped with a 3/32" white bead for fast shooting.

Rear Sight–A special new configuration of Lyman # 16 Folding Leaf Sight

designed to fit the dovetail of Lyman Black Powder Rifles. This open rear

sight is equipped with an adjustable elevation blade which is held firmly in

place by two lock screws.

In order to change the point of impact, loosen the two lock screws holding

the rear sight elevation blade. Raising the elevation blade will raise the point

of impact. Lowering the elevation blade will lower the point of impact.

Tighten the lock screw when the elevation blade is in the desired location. In

order to make windage adjustments, the entire rear sight can be carefully

"drifted" to the right or left. Use a punch made from a soft material such as

brass, and strike the base of the sight only. Never strike the folding leaf.

Remember: Windage adjustments are made by moving the sight in the

direction you wish the ball to go.

The Deerstalker is drilled and tapped for use with Lyman's 57 SML receiver

sight which is described under Black Powder Sight Options.

In adjusting any type of iron sight, the following principles hold true:

1. Adjust the rear sight in the direction you wish to move the bullet's impact.

2. Adjust the front sight exactly opposite the direction you wish the bullet's

impact to shift.

OPTIONAL LYMAN BLACK POWDER SIGHTS

Lyman has been making quality gunsights for shooters for more than 100

years. To meet the needs of today's black powder enthusiast, Lyman offers a

number of alternative sight packages which can improve accuracy for the

serious target shooter or hunter.

TARGET SIGHTS

Lyman #57 SML Receiver Sights

This popular target sight has 1/4 minute micrometer

click adjustments for elevation and windage, a

quick-release slide and comes with both hunting and

target style apertures. The 57 fits the Lyman Trade

Rifle, Lyman Deerstalker and most other imported

Hawken replicas. Note: Minor drilling and tapping

required depending on manufacturer. 57 SMLs

made prior to 1989 will not fit T/C Hawkens made

after 1988.

57 GPR

The 57 GPR fits Great Plains Rifles and Great

Plains Hunter Rifles. The 57 GPR has the same

specifications as the 57 SML described above,

however, is equipped with an adapter base that fits

the tang angle of Great Plains rifles.

Lyman 17 A Front Sight

Teamed with a Lyman #57 Receiver Sight, this

target front sight will provide precise accuracy on

the range.

Designed for use with dovetail slot mounting, the

sight is supplied with seven interchangeable inserts

that are locked into place with a threaded cap. The

17 AML and AEU mount low to the barrel for use

with our 57 SML. The 17 ATC sits high above the

barrel for use with the high, T/C Creedmore type

rear sight. The 17 AML and ATC Sights fit T/C

Hawken and other rifles with 3/8" dovetails. The

Lyman Great Plains, Trade and Deerstalker Rifles

use the 17 AEU sight, as the barrel dovetail is .360.

HUNTING SIGHTS

Lyman offers both the 16 AML Folding Leaf Sight

and the 37 ML Front Sight in a special configuration

designed to fit all current Lyman Black Powder

Rifles. The 16 Folding Leaf Sight is adjustable for

elevation and the leaf can be folded out of the way

when the rifle is additionally equipped with a

receiver sight. The 37 Front Sight is equipped with a

3/32" white bead for fast shooting. This sight

package will fit both the Great Plains and Trade

Rifle as well as the Deerstalker Rifle.

17A

57SML

37ML

16AML

FITTING WEDGE PINS

It may sometimes be necessary to adjust the fit of the wedge pins to the

escutcheons. The conditions include adjustment to prevent the pin from falling

out if the fit is loose, or the removal of a small amount of material if the wedge

pins do not enter completely through.

If the wedge pin is too loose (fig. 4) the fit can be tightened up placing an

approximately 1" diameter bar over the barrel lug. Gently tap the bar with a

hammer while rolling bar back and forth (fig. 4A). Check fit by installing bar-

rel in stock and installing wedge pin. Repeat as necessary.

Warning: Proceed very carefully since this operation can be overdone quickly.

Wedge pins can on occasion hang up on the inside of the left side escutcheon,

To correct this, remove RIGHT side escutcheon and secure in a vise. Use a

small jewelers file to remove material from the top of the slot in which the

wedge pin slides through. Check fit by placing in cavity (it is not necessary to

screw in place) and inserting wedge pin. Repeat as necessary.

For a better fit of wedge pin, remove LEFT side escutcheon, turn upside down

and file a 45º bevel on the inside of escutcheon where wedge mates (fig. 5).

This will ease entry of the wedge pin.

FIG. 4

FIG. 4A

FIG 5

LYMAN GREAT PLAINS RIFLE

and GREAT PLAINS HUNTER

Weight: 9 Lbs./OAL: 50"

The rifle carried across the Great Plains by western pioneers and fur trappers was

the culmination of percussion firearms development. This “Great Plains” rifle

was designed and built by such famous makers as Hawken, Gemmer and

Demick to the specifications of experienced backwoodsmen. Only the best and

most reliable designs and finest workmanship were acceptable. Today, as in the

1800's, the experienced black powder shooter is looking for a very

special rifle. The Lyman Great Plains Rifle, with its graceful, yet sturdy lines, is

such a gun. The modern muzzleloader will appreciate its combination of

strength, reliability, accuracy and authentic good looks. It is truly a black

powder gun of remarkable significance.

Each Great Plains Rifle offers such high quality features as a 32", 1 in 60" twist

barrel for patched ball and hunting loads, double set triggers, Hawken style

percussion “snail” with clean out screw and reliable coil spring lock with correct

lock plate. All guns come with walnut stocks and darkened steel furniture. The

Great Plains Hunter features a 1 in 32" fast twist barrel for conicals or sabots.

Dwg. Part Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description Pc. Mk. Number Description

16030263 Ramrod Spring Screw 14 6030218 Rear Sight Spring

26993102 Ramrod Clip Spring 15 6030219 Rear Sight Elev. Assy.

36030137 Barrel Rib & Thimbles 16 6030220 Rear Sight Adj. Screw

46030134 Rib Screw 16a 6030099 Adj. Rear Sight (complete)

66030120 Cleaning Jag (.50 cal.) 16b 6030227 Primitive Rear Sight (not shown)

6a 6030101 Cleaning Jag (.54 cal.) 17a 6030221 Barrel (.50 cal.) per.

76030121 Tang 17b 6030222 Barrel (.54 cal.) per.

*8 NA Breech Plug 17c 6030198 Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint

*8a NA Breech Plug (Flint) 17d 6030199 Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint

8b 6030176 Touch Hole Liner (Flint) 17e 6030272 L.H. Barrel (.50 cal.) perc.

96030123 Cleanout Plug 17f 6030274 L.H. Barrel (.54 cal.) perc.

10 6030124 Nipple 6 x .75mm 17g 6030276 L.H. Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint

11 6030125 Tang Screw (rear) 17h 6030278 L.H. Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint

11 6030191 Tang Through-Bolt (front) 17i 6030266 GPH Barrel (.50 cal.) per.

12 6030216 Rear Sight Base 17j 6030267 GPH Barrel (.54 cal.) per.

13 6030217 Rear Sight Pin 17k 6030268 GPH L.H. Barrel (.50 cal.) per.

17l 6030269 GPH L.H. Barrel (.54 cal.) per.

17m 6031108 GPH Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint

17n 6031109 GPH Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint

18 6030223 Front Sight

23 6030224 Ramrod (10-32 Thread)

Components

*Note: Breechplugs and barrels not sold

separately, only as factory-assembled units.

Barrel and Sight Group

Your Great Plains Rifle is equipped with a lim-

ited adjustment set trigger system. This system

provides either a standard trigger for snap shots

while hunting or a more sensitive “set” trigger

for precision shooting.

Operation: To engage the set trigger pull the

hammer back to full cock, squeeze the rear trig-

ger until a “click” is felt, then carefully aim and

press the front trigger. Be careful–don’t let the

light pull catch you by surprise! You may fire

the rifle without engaging the set trigger by

using only the front trigger.

Adjustment: Turning the adjustment screw

(51) clockwise will lighten the set trigger pull;

turning the screw counter-clockwise will

increase it. The range of adjustment is limited

by Lyman to prevent the set trigger from being

lightened to the point where we feel it would be

unsafe. Use common sense in this adjustment

and in the use of the trigger mechanism.

Dwg. Part Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description Pc. Mk. Number Description

16030201 Butt Plate 24 6030206 Entry Pipe

26030202 Butt Plate Screws 25 6030207 Forend Cap

36030203 Toe Plate 26 6030208 Stock

46030204 Toe Plate Screws 26a 6030270 L.H. Stock

56030119 Lock Assembly 27 6030209 Escutcheon

5a 6030180 Lock Assembly (Flint) 28 6030210 Trigger Guard Screw

5b 6993170 L.H. Lock Assembly 29 6030211 Trigger Guard

5c 6993171 L.H. Lock Assembly (Flint) 30 6030212 Trigger Assy. Mount Screw

19 6030139 Lock Mounting Screw 31 6030213 Trigger Assembly

20 6030195 Lock Screw Bushing (steel) 32 6030214 Forend Cap Pin

21 6011118 Escutcheon Screw 33 6030215 Entry Pipe Pin

22 6030205 Wedge (front)*

22a 6030196 Wedge (rear)*

*Note: The rear wedge is slightly longer than the front wedge and is installed

closest to the lock. Both wedges are installed from the right to the left. This is

true for right or left-hand rifles. Sights are also installed from the right to the

left. Sights are removed from the left to the right.

Note: Lock assembly for percussion and flintlock rifles shown on page 30.

Components

Stock and Lock Group

Set Trigger Assembly

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

49 6030162 Trigger Plate

50 6030163 Set Trigger

51 6030164 Adjusting Screw

52 6030165 Hair Trigger

53 6030166 Hair Trigger Spring

54 6030167 Trigger Pivot Pin

55 6030168 Trigger Main Spring

56 6030169 Main Spring Screw

Components

LYMAN TRADE RIFLE

Weight: 8 Lbs./OAL: 46"

The Lyman Trade Rifle is patterned after the sturdy and functional guns

developed for the early Indian fur trade. Designed by such companies as

Henry and Leman, these original guns were much sought after by trappers,

Indians and other rugged wilderness survivors. These men wanted a basic

hunting gun that combined the best attributes of a hunting rifle without the

expensive frills of more ornate rifles. The Trade Rifle is designed to accurate-

ly fire both patch round ball and maxi style conical bullets. It features a 28"

octagon barrel with 1 in 48" twist, polished brass furniture, steel rib and blued

finish on all steel parts. The single trigger is spring loaded for positive ten-

sion. Each rifle includes both fixed "primitive" and elevation adjustable rear

sights. The optional 57 SML can be mounted without any modifications.

Dwg. Part Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description Pc. Mk. Number Description

46030120 Cleaning Jag (.50 cal.) 11a 6030228 Barrel (.50 cal.) per.

4a 6030101 Cleaning Jag (.54 cal.) 11b 6030229 Barrel (.54 cal.) per.

56030121 Tang 11c 6030240 Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint

*6 NA Breech Plug 11d 6030241 Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint

*6a NA Breech Plug (Flint) 12 6030223 Front Sight

6b 6030176 Touch Hole Liner (Flint) 13 6993102 Ramrod Clip Spring

76030123 Cleanout Plug 14 6030263 Ramrod Spring Screw

86030124 Nipple 6 x .75mm 15 6030138 Barrel Lug (factory installed)

96030125 Tang Screws 16 6030137 Barrel Rib & Thimbles

10 6030227 Primitive Rear Sight 17 6030134 Rib Screws

10a 6030099 Adj. Rear Sight (complete) 18 6030143 Ramrod (10-32 Thread)

(not shown)

Barrel and Sight Group

Components

*Note: Breechplugs and barrels not sold separate only as factory-assembled units.

Dwg. Part Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description Pc. Mk. Number Description

16030115 Butt Plate 24 6030145 Forend Cap

26030116 Butt Plate Screws 25 6030233 Stock

36030119 Lock Assembly 26 6030174 Escutcheon

18 6030139 Lock Mounting Screw 27 6030147 Trigger Guard Screw

19 6030140 Lock Screw Bushing 28 6030225 Trigger Guard

20 6030141 Escutcheon Screw 29 6030149 Trigger Assy Mount Screw

21 6030142 Wedge* 30 6030226 Trigger Assembly

23 6030144 Forend Cap Screw

*Note: The wedge is installed from the right to the left. Sights are also

installed from the right to the left. Sights are removed from the left to

the right.

Note: Lock assemblies for percussion and flint rifles shown on page 30.

Components

Stock and Lock Group

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

16993118 Trigger

26993119 Trigger Plate

36993120 Leaf Spring

46993121 Spring Screw

Components

Note: Trigger assembly as shown above is the same for both the

Trade Rifle and Deerstalker.

DEERSTALKER RIFLE

Weight: 7.5 Lbs./OAL: 41"

The Lyman Deerstalker is the ideal rifle for the muzzleloader whose primary

interest is hunting.

Like all Lyman black powder guns, the Deerstalker has an impressive collec-

tion of top-quality rifle features. The rich walnut stock is specially designed

with less drop for improved sight picture and includes a handsome rubber pad

to lessen recoil. The barrel and all metal parts are blackened to avoid glare.

Whether flint or percussion, all Lyman locks employ a rugged, reliable coil

mainspring. The barrel has a 1 in 48" twist which will handle a large range of

bullet types and weights.

The Deerstalker combines these traditional qualities with the modern features

that the serious hunter demands. Each rifle features a specially designed stock

with Lyman front and rear hunting sights for an improved sight picture. The

shorter barrel and lighter weight make it ideal for carrying on an all day hunt.

All hardware is darkened for low glare and all rifles come with sling swivel

studs and a handsome rubber pad to reduce recoil. The ultra quiet single

trigger is fast and efficient. Finally, all Deerstalker Rifles are factory

pre-drilled and tapped for an optional Lyman 57 Receiver Sight for the most

serious target shooter or hunter.

Dwg. Part Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description Pc. Mk. Number Description

1a 6030120 Cleaning Jag (.50 cal.) 8e 6993173 L. H. Barrel (.50 cal.)

1b 6030101 Cleaning Jag (.54 cal.) 8f 6993174 L. H. Barrel (.54 cal.)

26993100 Tang 8g 6993178 L. H. Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint

*3 NA Breech Plug 9 3090118 Front Sight (37 ML)

*3a NA Breech Plug (Flint) 10 6030138 Barrel Lug (factory installed)

3b 6030176 Touch Hole Liner (Flint) 11 6993106 Barrel Rib & Thimbles

46030123 Cleanout Plug 12 6030134 Rib Screw

56030124 Nipple 6 x .75mm 12a 6030135 Thimble Screws

66030125 Tang Screw 13 6010034 Delrin Ramrod 25"

(10-32 thread)

7 3090117 Folding Leaf Sight (16AML) 14 6993123 Plug Screw

8a 6993103 Barrel (.50 cal.) 15 6030263 Screw

8b 6993104 Barrel (.54 cal.) 16 6993102 Ramrod Clip Spring

8c 6993095 Barrel (.50 cal.) Flint

8d 6993096 Barrel (.54 cal.) Flint

Barrel and Sight Group

Components

*Note: Breechplugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory-assembled units.

Dwg. Part Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description Pc. Mk. Number Description

14 6993107 Butt Plate 21 6993113 Forend Cap Screw

15 6993108 Butt Plate Screws 22 6993114 Forend Cap

16 6030119 Lock Assembly 23 6993115 Stock

16a 6030180 Lock Assembly (Flint) 23a 6993172 L.H. Stock

16b 6993170 L.H. Lock Assembly 24 6993116 Escutcheon

16c 6993171 L.H. Lock Assembly (Flint) 25 6030147 Trigger Guard Screw

17 6993109 Lock Mounting Screw 26 6993117 Trigger Guard

18 6993110 Lock Screw Bushing 27 6030149 Trigger Assy. Mount Screw

19 6030141 Escutcheon Screw 28 6030226 Trigger Assembly

20 6993112 Wedge*

*Note: The wedge is installed from the right to the left. This is true for right

or left-hand rifles. Sights are also installed from the right to the left. Sights

are removed from the left to the right.

Note: Trigger assembly for Deerstalker same as Trade Rifle (shown on page 25.)

Lock assemblies for Lyman rifles shown on page 30.

Components

Stock and Lock Group

Barrel Specifications

Suggested

Bore Groove Twist Ball Dia.

Plains Pistol .50 .501" .520" 1/30" .490"/.495"

Plains Pistol .54 .541" .560" 1/30" .530"/.535"

Great Plains Rifle .50 .502" .520" 1/60" .490/.495"

Great Plains Rifle .54 .542" .558" 1/60" .530"/.535"

Great Plains Hunter .50 .502" .510" 1/32" *

Great Plains Hunter .54 .542" .550" 1/32" *

Trade Rifle .50 .502" .520" 1/48" .490"/.495"

Trade Rifle .54 .542" .558" 1/48" .530"/.535"

Deerstalker .50 .502" .520" 1/48" .490"/.495"

Deerstalker .54 .542" .558" 1/48" .530"/.535"

Deerstalker Stainless Steel .50 .502" .510" 1/48" *

Deerstalker Stainless Steel .54 .542" .550" 1/48" *

*Note: Recommend conical or sabots for this model.

Note: These are nominal specifications for general information only. The actual

dimensions of a given gun may vary several thousandths of an inch. It is often necessary

to experiment with several ball diameters and patch thicknesses to find the one best for

your application. If you have any questions concerning your gun, please note the serial

number of your gun and call/write Lyman Customer Service for verification.

All barrels are 15/16" across the flats.

DEERSTALKER STAINLESS

The Lyman Deerstalker Stainless model has all the features of the standard blued

model, but is made in corrosion resistant stainless steel. All major metal parts

such as the barrel, trigger guard, lock assembly, escutcheons, and wedge are

stainless steel for the greatest protection against black powder fouling and

weather. The Deerstalker stainless models uses a 1 in 32" twist barrel for

shooting conicals and sabots. Stainless parts have brushed finish to prevent glare.

Barrel and Sight Group - Stainless

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

1a 6030120 Cleaning Jag (.50 cal)

1b 6030101 Cleaning Jag (.54 cal)

2 6993300 Tang

36993123 Plug Screw

46993301 Cleanout Plug

56030124 Nipple 6 x. 75mm

66993302 Tang Screw

7 3090117 Folding Leaf Sight (16 AML)

8a 6993303 Barrel (.50 cal)

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

8b 6993304 Barrel (.54 cal)

9* N/A Breech Plug

10 3090118 Front Sight (37 ML)

11 6993306 Barrel Rib & Thimble

12 6993307 Rib Screws

13 6993308 Thimble Screws

14 6993102 Ramrod Clip Spring

15 6993309 Spring Screw

16 6010034 Delrin Ramrod 25"

(10-32 thread)

Components

*Note: Breechplugs and barrels not sold separately, only as factory-

assembled units.

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

16993107 Butt Plate

26993108 Butt Plate Screws

36993310 Lock Assembly

46993311 Lock Mounting Screw

56993312 Lock Screw Bushing

66993313 Escutcheon Screw

76993317 Escutcheon

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

8 6993314 Wedge

96993315 Forend Cap

10 6993113 Forend Cap Screw

11 6993316 Stock

12 6993331 Trigger Assembly

13 6993318 Trigger Guard Screw

Components

Stock and Lock Group

LOCK ASSEMBLIES

Percussion Lock Assembly

(For Lyman Great Plains, Trade and Deerstalker Percussion Models)

The percussion lock on your Black

Powder Rifle is a near-perfect blend of

both old and new. The exterior is finely

finished and color case-hardened as were

the guns of 150 years ago.

Inside, the lock is a redesigned system

featuring a coil mainspring (42) instead of

the traditional leaf spring. This is a much

more durable mainspring, one that is

not prone to the breakage problems

encountered with the flat leaf springs.

Dwg. Part Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description Pc. Mk. Number Description

38 6030151 Bridle Screws 44a 6993189 L.H. Tumbler

39 6030152 Hammer Screw 45 6030158 Fly

40 6030153 Bridle 46 6030159 Sear

41 6030154 Lock Plate 46a 6993188 L.H. Sear

41a 6993186 L.H. Lock Plate 47 6030160 Sear Plunger & Spring

42 6030155 Main Spring 48 6030161 Hammer

43 6030156 Main Spring Plunger 48a 6993184 L.H. Hammer

44 6030157 Tumbler 49 6011127 Sear Screw

Note: Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the

stock. Wood damage will result if this is not done.

Components

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

38 6993320 Bridle Screw

39 6993321 Hammer Screw

40 6993322 Bridle

41 6993323 Lock Plate

42 6030155 Main Spring

43 6993324 Main Spring Plunger

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

44 6993325 Tumbler

45 6030158 Fly

46 6993326 Sear

47 6993327 Sear Plunger & Spring

48 6993328 Hammer

49 6993329 Sear Screw

Percussion Lock Assembly–Stainless Steel

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

16030151 Bridle Screw

2 6030153 Bridle

36030181 Lock Plate

3a 6993187 L.H. Lock Plate

46030182 Frizzen

56030183 Frizzen Spring*

5a 6993191 L.H. Frizzen Spring*

66030184 Frizzen Spring Screw

76030185 Frizzen Screw

86030155 Main Spring

96030156 Main Spring Plunger

10 6030157 Tumbler

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

10a 6993189 L.H. Tumbler

11 6030158 Fly

12 6030159 Sear

12a 6993188 L.H. Sear

13 6030160 Sear Plunger & Spring

14 6030186 Hammer

14a 6993185 L.H. Hammer

15 6030187 Hammer Jaw

16 6030188 Jaw Screw

17 – Leather**

18 – Flint**

19 6011127 Sear Screw

Components

Flintlock Lock Assembly

For Great Plains, Trade and

Deerstalker Flint Models

Note: Pull hammer to full cock before removing lock assembly from the

stock. Wood damage will result if this is not done.

* Not shown in illustration

**Not available from Lyman

LYMAN PLAINS PISTOL

Lyman's Plains Pistol recreates the trapper's pistol of the mid-1800's while incor-

porating the best of modern steels and technology.

All steel parts on the finished gun are polished and blued - except for the belt

hook. The percussion lock is hardened internally with a color-case hardened

lockplate and hammer on both the kit and finished gun.

Your Plains Pistol is designed to fire a tightly patched roundball accurately at

various charge levels. Do not shoot conical bullets, such as the “Maxi” or Minie

ball. The conical bullets are very heavy, compared to a patched round-ball, and

are very likely to slip towards the muzzle if the loaded pistol is carried on the

belt. The resultant space between bullet and powder could produce a bulged or

burst barrel under certain conditions. Note: Breech plugs and barrels not sold

separately, only as factory-assembled units.

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

26 6030151 Bridle Screws*

27 6030152 Hammer Screw*

28 6011124 Bridle-Pl. Pistol

29 6011125 Lock Plate-Pl. Pistol

30 6030155 Main Spring*

31 6030156 Main Spring Plunger*

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

32 6030157 Tumbler*

34 6011137 Sear

35 6030160 Sear Plunger & Spring*

36 6011126 Hammer

37 6011127 Sear Screw*

Percussion Lock Assembly

Dwg. Part

Pc. Mk. Number Description

16030120 Cleaning Jag (.50 cal)

1a 6030101 Cleaning Jag (.54 cal)

26011102 Tang-Pl. Pistol

36011103 Tang Screw-Pl. Pistol

46030122 Breech Plug

56030123 Cleanout Plug

66030124 Nipple 6 x .75mm

76011104 Rear Sight-Pl. Pistol

86011106 Barrel (.50) Blued;

Pl. Pistol

8a 6011107 Barrel (.54) Blued;

Pl. Pistol

96011108 Front Sight-Pl. Pistol

10 6011109 Barrel Rib w/attached

ferrule-Pl. Pistol

11 6011110 Barrel Rib Screw-Pl. Pistol

12 6011111

Ramrod-Pl. Pistol (10-32 thread)

13 6011112 Stock (finished)-Pl. Pistol

13a 6011113 Stock (kit)-Pl. Pistol

14 6011114 Lock Assembly-Pl. Pistol

15 6011115 Lock Mounting Screw

Pl. Pistol

16 6011116 Belt Hook-Pl. Pistol

17 6011117 Lock Screw Bushing

18 6011118 Escutcheon Screw-Pl. Pistol

19 6011119 Wedge-Pl. Pistol*

20 6011120 Escutcheon-Pl. Pistol

21 6011121

Forend Cap Screw-Pl. Pisto

22 6011122 Forend Cap-Pl. Pistol

23 6011123

Trigger Assembly-Pl. Pistol

24 6011128 Trigger Guard-Pl. Pistol

25 6011129

Trigger Guard Screw-Pl. Pistol

Stock and Lock Group

Shooting Caution: Do not carry your loaded Plains

Pistol with a percussion cap on the nipple. This is

just as unsafe as carrying a single-action revolver

with a primed chamber under the hammer - even if

the hammer is on the safety notch.

*Interchangeable with lock parts from the Great Plains Rifle, Deerstalker and Trade Rifle.

*Note: The wedge is installed from the right to the left. Sights are also installed from the right to

the left. Sights are removed from the left to the right.

Instructions for Lyman

Assembly Kits

INTRODUCTION

The materials provided in Lyman Kits have been selected for their overall

quality and durability. Proper assembly will enable you to create a muzzle-

loading firearm having the quality lines of an expensive custom piece.

Read these instructions thoroughly before you actually begin assembly.

There are several critical steps - and others that will save considerable time

within the instructions. Reading the instructions will give you a better under-

standing of the task and allow you to mentally sequence the events before

beginning work.

TOOLS REQUIRED

We recommend that you obtain a copy of Brownells Gunsmith Tool Catalog.

You will find this book to be a handy tool reference and a good source for the

material you cannot find locally.

Brownells Inc., 200 South Front Street, Montezuma, Iowa 50171

Carving Tools–The wood work required to complete this kit could be done

with ordinary hobby knives, but a set of wood carving tools will simplify any

carving required.

Rasps–You will need a straight rasp for rough shaping the exterior of the

stock to final dimensions. The "Surform" tools produced by Stanley will do a

satisfactory job.

Sand Paper–Grades 80 through 320.

Files–(1) 10 or 12 inch mill file

(2) 1/4 inch wide pillar file

(3) 1/4 inch three square file

Electric Drill and Bits–

(1) 3/32 inch

(2) 1/16 inch

(3) 1/8 inch

SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS - INLETTING

The stock of your Lyman kit is, at least, 95% inletted. You will find that most,

if not all, the major parts will fit properly with no additional inletting required.

However, we have chosen to be very meticulous and present the inletting of

each part with greater detail and emphasis than is likely to be required.

Throughout these instructions you will be instructed to "blacken"the part prior

to inletting, then to look for the black transfer marks, indicating where excess

material is to be removed. These instructions refer to a technique where a part

is coated with a transfer agent (such as soot, Prussian Blue, lipstick or similar

substance) then inserted into the semi-inletted stock and lightly tapped into

place. When the part is removed, the transfer agent will remain on the stock

showing where wood is to be removed or the fit is perfect. If you have never

inletted a stock before, it is important for you to realize the presence of a black

transfer mark does not automatically indicate removal of material.

NOTE: CONSULT THE PARTS DIAGRAM IN THIS GUIDE AS NEEDED.

Example: Assume that you are inletting the lock assembly. After you remove

the lock for the first time you will note the black transfer marks in the cavity.

Little black will be apparent around the edges of the lock. Black marks will be

located within the cavity showing where wood is to be removed to allow the

working parts of the lock to fit. You will continue to coat the part with transfer

agent, reinsert it into the cavity, continue inletting gradually dropping the lock

into place. As the lock is lowered into position the edge of the lock plate will

come into contact with the stock. At this time you must proceed very slowly.

Wood is actually shaved from the cavity where the edge of the lock plate

meets the stock. When the lock plate is properly inletted, light transfer marks

will be apparent around the edges of the cavity. If these light transfer marks

were to be removed you would create gaps between the edge of the lock plate

and the surface of the stock, a condition that is not desirable.

There are two simple ways to obtain a suitable transfer agent.

One is to coat the part with soot from a smoking candle. The smoke from the

candle flame is played on the part. This technique is very effective when fit-

ting metal to metal. Add a few drops of oil at the wick base if your candle

does not smoke enough. The second way to obtain a transfer agent is to pur-

chase a bottle of “inletting black” from a gunsmith supply house.

KIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:

GREAT PLAINS RIFLE AND PLAINS PISTOL

The first step in assembly is with the barrel group. The barrel is to be partially

finished first so that it can be readily inletted into the stock.

1. Draw Filing the Barrel–Draw filing is used primarily to shave away the

tool marks left on the barrel by the precision milling operation; secondarily

to dress the patent breech to the barrel.

During draw filing, the file is held such that it makes a right angle with the axis

of the barrel (refer to Figure 1). Holding the file with both hands, it is lightly

drawn down the entire length of the barrel, shaving metal away as it travels.

Begin by securing the barrel in a padded vise and start draw filing the entire

barrel, one flat at a time. Start at the muzzle and draw the file towards you,

making sure that the file is held flat against the barrel. Do not allow the file to

rock side to side during the draw, as this will cause rounded edges.

Continue filing, one flat at a time, until each flat of the barrel is completely

free of milling tool marks, and the breech plug is flush with the barrel flats.

Take your time.

When the draw file has been completed, lightly oil the entire barrel to prevent

rust. The final polishing of the barrel will be done after all inletting has been

completed.

2. Fitting the Tang to the Breech Plug–The tang and the lug on the breech-

plug may require hand-fitting to provide the proper fit when the barrel is

hooked into position. The fit described below will assure a rigid barrel/stock

assembly that will promote excellent accuracy in the finished rifle or pistol.

Caution: This step is often unnecessary as it is factory fitted.

You will note that when the tang is first installed onto the breech plug it may

not lie flat, in contact with the rear of the breech plug.

The idea now is to carefully file away the surface (“A”) of the breech plug

lug until the tang mounts flush with the plug with a small amount of pressure

applied. Over-cutting of the top surface will cause the tang to fit loosely and

may affect accuracy.

Blacken the entire surface of the projecting lug on the breech plug. Hook

the tang onto the lug. Remove the tang and examine the upper surface of the

lug. White marks (soot rubbed away) will indicate where excess metal is to be

filed away. Carefully file away excess metal, reblacken the lug and hook the

tang back into position. Repeat the filing and fitting process until the top flat

of the tang is parallel with the top flat of the barrel.

3. Inletting the Stock–The stock of your Lyman muzzleloader is a very

delicate piece of wood, and requires considerable care when metal parts are

fitted to it. Pressure incorrectly applied when inletting could well result in a

cracked stock.

The areas of the tang, barrel breech and the lock are particularly delicate.

Large amounts of wood have been removed from these areas to

accommodate hardware. These areas are very likely to be damaged if

improper care is taken during the inletting process. The following

instructions describe how to proceed during each critical step. With

reasonable care, good results will be obtained.

4. Inletting of the Lock Screw Bushing or Plains Pistol Belt Hook–The

lockscrew bushing should be inletted flush with the stock surface. Blacken

the underside of the bushing and press it into its stock cavity. Remove the

bushing and carefully cut away excess wood within the cavity. Continue the

process until the bushing is completely inletted and bottoms in the cavity.

NOTE: Should the bushing become stuck in position before inletting is

complete, it can be easily removed by inserting the lock screw into the

screw hole from the lock cavity side of the stock, and carefully tapping out

the bushing. 35

Adjust fit until flats of tang meets flats of

breech plug. A slight amount of pressure to

make contact is desired.

Surface “A”

FIGURE 2

5. Inletting the Lock Assembly–First, draw the hammer back to full cock. Apply

transfer agent to plate edges. Position the lock over its cavity in the stock. Insert

the lock mounting screw and slowly tighten it, drawing the lock down into posi-

tion. Draw down only until resistance is met. Remove the lock and examine the

cavity for black transfer marks. Carefully cut away excess wood.

NOTE: If you remove too much wood from the inner surface where the stock

and the edge of the lock plate meet, unsightly gaps will result. Remove only

small amounts of wood at a time. Do not over-tighten the lock screw when

drawing the lock into position. If the cavity has not been fully inletted, the lock

will act as a wedge and a cracked stock will result. Continue the inletting

process until the lock has been inletted to a point where the surface of the lock

plate is just above the surface of the stock. Final inletting will take place later.

6. Inletting the Tang and Barrel Assembly–Remove the forend cap from the stock.

Install the lock.

Hook the tang on the breech plug and set the entire tang/ barrel assembly into the

stock. Carefully note the position of the bolster (on the breech plug) with regard to

the circular cutout on the lock. It should align closely.

Inletting of the tang/barrel assembly must allow the bolster to fit into the

circular cutout on the lock when inletting is completed.

If further inletting is needed, blacken the underside of the tang and set it into

position, noting with a pencil mark. Carefully tap into place, then remove and cut

away excess wood. Continue this process until the tang has been inletted to 90%

of its depth in the stock. During the course of this inletting, periodically install the

barrel on the tang to check for bolster alignment with the lock.

Once the tang has been inletted to near full depth, proceed by inletting the barrel

and tang as an assembly. Blacken the undersides of both the barrel and tang. Cut

away any excess wood from both the tang area and the barrel channel until the

assembly is fully inletted, and the bolster makes contact with the circular lock

plate cutout. When this contact has been made, remove the lock and continue

inletting to full depth. The barrel wedge(s) can be inserted into the barrel tenon(s).

A slight amount of pressure should be required to insert the wedge(s). Note that on

the Great Plains Rifle the longer wedge should be installed closest to breech.

7. Final Inletting of the Lock and Barrel Assembly–Great Plains: Set the tang

and barrel into position, note the location of the two tang screws They should

line up with the holes in the tang. When complete, mount the tang in position.

Hook the barrel to the tang and install. Do not force the barrel down. You may

find that additional inletting behind the breech plug is required to clear the

breech hook, allowing the barrel to pivot.

Plains Pistol: Set the tang and barrel into position and, when complete, mount the tang

in position. The single tang screw goes through a pre-drilled stock hole and anchors in

a threaded hole in the top of the trigger plate. Make sure the screw aligns properly so

the tang screw threads won't be stripped. Hook the barrel to the tang and install.

Do not force the barrel down. You may find that additional inletting behind the breech

plug is required to clear the breech hook, allowing the barrel to pivot.

NOTE: Gap between lower barrel flat and bottom forend channel should not

exceed 1/16".

At this stage you should complete inletting of the lock to its full depth so the inside

shoulder of the lock makes solid contact with the side flat of the barrel, and the bol-

ster of the breech plug fits properly into the circular cutout of the lock. Install the

lock assembly. Blacken the underside of the bolster and reinsert the barrel assembly

in the stock. The barrel may not go back into its fully inletted position.

If not, the interference will be caused by the bolster being slightly out of position

with the circular cutout of the lock (refer to figure 3). Remove the barrel and exam-

ine the underside of the bolster for interference marks. Carefully file away excess

metal on the bolster, using a rotation motion as you file. Repeat the blackening and

trial fit process until the barrel has been returned to its fully inletted position. Note:

Proper fit is achieved when there is a slight clearance between the bolster and the

circular cutout. At final assembly the lock must be able to be removed with the bar-

rel in position.

Flintlock Note: The lock must contact flat of barrel to prevent priming powder from

collecting inside lock. If ignited, this powder will explode, ruining the rifle and

probably causing injury.

Install the barrel using the barrel wedge to hold it in place. Remove the lock assem-

bly and blacken the underside. Continue the inletting of the lock until the inside

shoulder of the lock is in full contact with the side flat of the barrel. When the lock

has been fully inletted, carefully pull the hammer back to check for interference

with internal working parts. The lock should cock freely. If resistance is felt, exam-

ine the lock cavity to ensure that all rotating parts have clearance.

8. Inletting the Trigger Assembly–Blacken the underside of the trigger assem-

bly. Insert the assembly to the rear of the trigger cavity. Remove the trigger

assembly and cut away excess wood. Continue the inletting process until the

trigger plate has been inletted slightly below the surface of the stock.

Locate the position of the trigger assembly mount screw. On the Great Plains

Rifle use the 1/16 inch drill to drill the pilot hole. Install the trigger assembly.

FUNCTION TEST: Make certain that the hammer is in the down position.

Check triggers for freedom of movement.

Great Plains Rifle–Set the rear trigger and release the set trigger by pulling on

the front trigger. If both triggers operate freely, you have adequate clearance.

If not, remove the trigger assembly, examine the cavity for black transfer marks

and cut away interfering wood.

Plains Pistol–Secure the trigger assembly by installing and tightening the tang screw.

9. Inletting the Trigger Guard–Great Plains: Use a mill file and carefully

remove any burrs from around the bottom edges of the two flats of the trigger

guard. The outer edges should be completely finished before inletting.

The exterior surface of the trigger guard can be finished later. Blacken the

underside of the two flats of the guard, and insert the guard into its cavity.

Remove and cut away excess wood. Continue the inletting until the trigger

guard has been inletted flush with the surface of the stock. Locate the position

for the two pilot holes and, using the 3/32 drill, drill the two pilot holes for the

trigger guard screws. Install the trigger guard.

Plains Pistol: Your Plains Pistol Kit has the trigger guard factory-installed.

No holes need be drilled by the builder and little, if any, inletting will be

necessary. However, some fitting of the trigger guard over the trigger assembly

may be necessary to permit the trigger guard to return to its original position,

flush with rifle stock.

If such fitting is necessary, spot and file the underside of the brass trigger guard

as needed.

The trigger guard should be left on the stock during all stages of wood shaping and

finishing. However, the correct fit is flush with the finished stock. After the stock has

received its final sanding, the trigger guard can be removed for final polish and later

installation on the stained and finished stock.

10. Inletting the Butt Plate (Rifles Only) and Forend Cap–Both the butt plate and

nose cap have been factory-installed to protect the exposed ends of the stock.

Additional fitting may be necessary for perfect fit.

Remove the butt plate and blacken the underside. Install. Then remove and cut

away excess wood. Continue this process until no wood-to-metal gaps are apparent.

Final fitting will take place when the stock is shaped. Note: In some instances, only

a minor amount of metal prevents an excellent fit. Judicious filing and spotting

often causes the butt plate to fit perfectly with little or no wood removal.

The forend cap is inletted in the same manner with an additional operation required.

Once the forend cap has been fully inletted, install the barrel. Note any interference

between the cap and barrel, and carefully file away excess cap metal. The cap

should not make contact with the barrel, a 1/64 inch gap is desirable.

11. Inletting the Escutcheons–Place the barrel in the stock. Each escutcheon is

inletted separately using the barrel wedge as a locating guide.

Blacken the underside of an escutcheon plate. Place the plate in position over its

cavity and insert the barrel wedge. Lightly tap the wedge down to hold the plate in

position. Do not overdo this or the plate will be deformed. Check the plate for

position and make sure the cavity is completely covered by the plate. Select a knife

with a small, thin blade and carefully cut a line around the edge of the plate. Use

only the point of the blade and position the knife so the cut is angled toward the

center of the plate.

Remove the plate and, using the knife cut as a guide, cut away excess wood directly

to the bottom of the cavity. Make certain the cuts stay slightly to the inside of the

knife scribe mark. Repeat the process for the second plate. Pilot holes are not

required for the escutcheon plate screws. Use the point of a knife or small nail to

locate the center of the hole and install the screws.

12. Finishing the Barrel–When the barrel has been completely inletted into the stock,

work may proceed with final finishing of the barrel. The draw filing operation is

now to be followed by successive passes of polishing with abrasive paper. First,

select a medium-coarse grit emery paper, followed with successively finer grits up

to 240 grit wet or dry paper. Wrap a piece of the grit around the file used to

draw-file the barrel. The draw-polishing is accomplished in the same manner used

to draw-file the barrel. Polish all flats, including the breech plug, until a satisfactory

polish has been achieved.

13. Metal Coloring–All steel fittings (except the lock and trigger assembly),

including the barrel, of your Lyman muzzleloader require some form of metal

finish, These may be polished with successively finer grades of emery paper or left as

is prior to finishing depending on the builder's taste.

Traditionally, rifles and pistols of this type had the “iron mountings” browned. The kit

builder may choose to cold blue these parts if he prefers a more modern type of finish.

Metal finishing can be accomplished by dismounting all the steel parts from the stock

and applying the metal finish according to the chemical manufacturer's instructions.

CAUTION: The ramrod thimbles on the Great Plains Rifle, and Plains Pistol are

soldered to the barrel rib in the same fashion as many originals. Since some browning

solutions require the use of heat, caution should be used to assure the part is not heated

enough to loosen the soldered bond.

Hot browning requires approximately 212 to 260 degrees and, therefore,

should present no problem if the kit builder is careful and tests the part

temperature often.

14. Sight Assembly–Install the front sight and rear sight by drifting each into

place using a brass or nylon punch so as not to damage them. These are

installed right to left.

15. Wood Finishing–The stock has been machined in the traditional style of

the period. However, sufficient wood has been left in most areas to allow

individual styling of your kit.

When you have shaped the stock to a point slightly above the surfaces of

any inletted metal parts, follow this operation with rough sanding using 80

grit paper. When sanding, follow the wood grain whenever possible. Final

sanding should be done using grits 100 through 240, in succession to

remove tool and sanding marks.

Sanding: When you have completely sanded the stock using 240 grit paper,

carefully examine the stock surface. It will be completely free from scratch

marks caused by rougher grits of paper. If all of these marks are not

removed at this time, they will show through the finish and detract from the

overall quality. When the stock has been completely sanded smooth, wet

down the entire surface with a damp cloth and raise the grain of the wood.

Let the stock dry and once again lightly sand the stock surface with 240 grit

paper. Sand off only the raised grain. Moisten the stock again and repeat

the process, only this time follow the 240 grit paper with a light sanding

using 320 grit paper. The stock is now ready for final finishing.

Staining: The European Walnut stock, as supplied, will finish to a nice

warm brown color if finished without the use of a darkening stain. The

wood of most old muzzleloading rifles and pistols was very dark in color.

Select a walnut stain and follow the directions provided with the product.

Stain the stock until you achieve the desired color. We recommend the use

of a water stain such as produced by the Birchwood Casey Co. These stains

can be found in most gun shops.

Sealing: The stock can be sealed by applying a commercial stock finishing

solution such as linseed or Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. Follow the

directions on the container.

IMPORTANT!

Be sure to read this Lyman User's Guide for Black Powder

Products–and other literature–packed with this kit. You must read

this material in order to use your Lyman muzzleloader in a safe,

responsible manner.

If you decide to sell, trade or loan your Lyman muzzleloader, be sure

the new operator receives the User's Guide. Free copies are available

from Customer Service if the original booklet has been misplaced.

The Lyman Great Plains Rifle

A Tradition of Excellence

Great Plains Hunter

This is a special version of our Great Plains rifle with the hunter in mind. Called the “Great Plains Hunter”,

this new model features a fast, 1 in 32" shallow groove rifle barrel. It’s ideal for shooting the many types of

modern projectiles available to today’s black powder hunter, such as Lyman’s own ‘Shocker’ series of

bullets and sabots. The Great Plains Hunter has all of the high quality features of our Classic Great Plains

rifle. It is also also pre-drilled and tapped for the new 57 GPR receiver sight for the Great

0Plains rifle.

Finished Rifles Great Plains Kits

.50 Cal. Per . . . . . . .#6031102 .50 Cal. Per . . . . .#6031111

.54 Cal. Per . . . . . . .#6031103 .54 Cal. Per . . . . .#6031112

.50 Cal. Flint . . . . .#6031105 .50 Cal. Flint . . . .#6031114

.54 Cal. Flint . . . . .#6031106 .54 Cal. Flint . . . .#6031115

Left Hand Rifles . . . . . . . . Great Plains Hunter

.50 Cal. Per . . . . . . .#6031125 50 Cal. Per . . . . .#6031120

.54 Cal. Per . . . . . . .#6031126 54 Cal. Per . . . . .#6031121

.50 Cal. Flint . . . . .#6031137 50 Cal. Flint . . . .#6031148

.54 Cal. Flint . . . . .#6031138 54 Cal.Flint . . . . .#6031149

50 Cal. Per(LH) .#6031142

54 Cal. Per(LH) #6031143

Lyman Great Plains Rifle

The rifle carried across the Great Plains by western pioneers and fur trappers was the culmination of

percussion firearms development. This “Great Plains” rifle was designed and built by such famous

makers as Hawken, Gemmer and Demick to the specifications of experienced backwoodsmen. Only

the best and most reliable designs and finest workmanship were acceptable. Today, as in the 1800’s,

the experienced black powder shooter is looking for a very special rifle.

No other factory assembled rifle or kit offers the authentic style and design of Lyman’s Great Plains

Rifle. This classic muzzleloader offers such high quality features as a 32" barrel with 1 in 60" twist

for patched ball and hunting loads, double set triggers, Hawken style percussion “snail” with clean

out screw, separate ramrod entry thimble and nose cap, and reliable coil spring lock with correct lock

plate. Available in .50 and .54 caliber flint or percussion. Factory assembled or kit form.

Great Plains Rifle Flintlock

Lyman Plains Pistol

Lyman Plains Pistol recreates the trapper’s pistol of the mid-1800’s while

incorporating the best of modern steels and technology.

It’s the perfect companion to a Lyman black powder rifle. This percussion

pistol is loaded with quality features. The richly stained walnut stock

complements blackened iron furniture, polished brass trigger guard and

ramrod tips. The hooked patent breech takes down quickly and easily for

cleaning. Just like the originals, the thimble is recessed into the rib

and a detachable belt hook provides an alternative to a holster. A

spring-loaded trigger and fast 1 in 30" twist make it amazingly

accurate. .50 Cal. Per (#6010608)

.54 Cal. Per (#6010609)

.50 Cal. Per “Kit” (#6010610)

.54 Cal. Per “Kit” (#6010611)

Great Plains Hunter with optional 57GPR & 17AEU Front Target Sight

Catalog Section

Great Plains Rifle Left Hand

New 32" Extra Great Plains Hunter Barrels

These barrels have 1-32" shallow groove rifling.* Ideal for

shooting conicals and sabots. Includes fitted tang for easy change over.

Available in:

50 Cal. 6030266 (Perc. only)

54 Cal. 6030267 (Perc. only

*Easy Drop in for converting Classic Great Plains to Hunter Model.

Lyman 57SML and 57GPR Receiver Sights

The most popular black powder receiver sight offers an immediate

improvement in accuracy for the target shooter or hunter. Features 1/4

minute micrometer click adjustments for elevation and windage, quick

release slide. 57SML fits perfectly on Lyman Deerstalker or Trade Rifle.

Other models may require minor drilling and tapping depending on

manufacturer. 57GPR fits Great Plains supplied with adapter.

Price: (4 oz.) 57SML(#3090114)

(4 oz.) 57GPR(#3090112)

Lyman #17 Front Target Sight

The ideal companion for the 57SML receiver sight, the 17 comes com-

plete with a set of 8 interchangeable inserts. The 17AML fits low to the

barrel with a height of .494". The 17ATC fits rifles that use a tall vernier

type rear sight. The 17ATC has a height of .852". All 17's are machined

from steel and have a standard 3⁄8dovetail. (Except 17AEU which has

European Dovetail for Lyman Muzzleloaders).

Price: 17AML (Ht .494") (#3090115)

17ATC (Ht .852") (#3090116)

17AEU (Eur. Dovetail) (#3171074)

16 and 37 Hunting Sights

Tired of the same old traditional blade and buckhorn sights found on

most muzzleloaders? These quality Lyman hunting sights will make an

old gun shoot straight and true. Both have special .360 dovetail cuts that

fit most European imports. The 16AML folding leaf sight is fully

adjustable for elevation. The 37ML white bead front sight stands out in

low light conditions.

Price: #16AML (Ht .400-500) (#3090117)

Combination Set (#3090106)

#37ML (Ht .445) (#3090118)

Upgrade Your Muzzleloader with Lyman Black Powder Sights

16 AML

Rear

Sight

37 ML

Front

Sight

57 SML

57 GPR

17 AML

17 ATC

17 AEU

(European

Dovetail)

Unbreakable Ramrod

fits barrels up to 36" 6010030

Flint Frizzen

better spark 6030182

Rifle Flints 2-pack 6030106

Rifle Nipple 3-pack

(stainless) 6030080

Touch Hole Liner 6030176

Wedge Trade Rifle 6030142

Wedge Deerstalker 6993112

Wedge Great Plains 6030196

Lyman

Black Powder Accessories

Catalog Section

Deerstalker™& Trade Rifles

Deerstalker Models

.50 Cal. Per #6033140

.54 Cal. Per #6033141

.50 Cal. Per Lefthand #6033175

.54 Cal. Per Lefthand #6033177

.50 Cal. Flint #6033146

.54 Cal. Flint #6033147

.50 Cal Flint LH #6033171

Deerstalker Stainless

.50 Cal. Per #6033185

.54 Cal. Per #6033186

Deerstalker Rifle

Lyman’s Deerstalker Rifle has quickly earned the reputation as one of America’s

most reliable, accurate and affordable hunting muzzleloaders. All Deerstalkers

have “Guaranteed” performance features such as a quiet single trigger, reliable

coil mainspring and high quality Lyman hunting sights. The 24” barrel with 1 in

48” twist is ideal for roundball or maxi hunting bullets. Parts are blackened to

avoid glare and a black rubber recoil pad mounted on the Deerstalker’s handsome

walnut stock, makes for comfortable shooting in either .50 or .54 caliber.

Deerstalker Stainless

The new Deerstalker stainless model is as handsome as it is functional. This highly

demanded rifle features true stainless steel on all of the major metal parts such as

the barrel, trigger guard, lock assembly, escutcheons and wedge. The Deerstalker

Stainless is available in percussion only and has a special 1 in 32" twist for shoot-

ing modern conicals.

Lyman Trade Rifle

The Lyman Trade Rifle is patterned after the sturdy and functional guns developed for

the early Indian fur trade. Designed by such companies as Henry and Leman, these

original guns were much sought after by trappers, Indians and other rugged wilderness

survivors.

.50 Cal. Per #6032125

.50 Cal. Flint #6032129

.54 Cal. Per #6032126

.54 Cal. Flint #6032130

Deerstalker Stainless

Trade Rifle Percussion

Optional Lyman 17 Front Target Sight

Catalog Section

LYMAN BLACK POWDER PROMOTIONS

Congratulations. The purchase of your new Lyman Black Powder Gun quali-

fies you to participate in our current Black Powder Promotional Program.

You can now obtain selected Lyman Black Powder Accessories at special

promotional prices. To order, simply select the items of your choice which

are listed below and order using the order form on the reverse side of this

page. Please make sure to use the correct part number which is indicated next

to the product or in the Lyman catalog which comes with your gun. Any

question, call toll free 1-800-22-LYMAN for assistance.

Normal Special Promo

Part # Retail Price

Lyman Black Powder Sights

57 SML Rear Target Sight 3090114 69.95 54.95

57 GPR Rear Target Sight 3090112 69.95 54.95

for Lyman Great Plains

66 MK Receiver Sight 3662260 69.95 54.95

(for Knight MK & BK Rifles)

57 SMET Receiver Sight 3572091 69.95 54.95

(for White Systems Rifles)

17 AML Front Target Sight 3090115 28.25 22.95

17 ATC Front Target Sight 3090116 28.25 22.95

(for Thompson Center)

16 AML Fold Down Hunting Sight 3090117 13.25 9.95

37 ML Front Hunting Sight 3090118 9.50 7.50

Combo Set (16 AML & 37 ML) 3090106 17.95 14.50

Black Powder Casting

Equipment

Mini-Mag Casting Furnace 110V 2800200 54.00 40.95

Lead Casting Dipper 2867790 14.95 11.95

Lead Ingot Mould 2837794 16.95 12.95

Lead Pot 2867791 12.95 9.95

Casting Thermometer 2867793 37.50 28.95

Round Ball Mould Blocks Part # in 61.25 45.95

(Single or double Cavity) Catalog

Maxi Ball Mould Blocks 61.25 45.95

Minie Ball Mould Blocks 61.25 45.95

Other Black Powder Accessories

Unbreakable Delrin Ramrod 6010030 8.25 6.95

Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine 02949 6.65 4.95

Offer Expires 12/31/04

ORDER FORM-Lyman Black Powder Promotion

ORDERED BY: (Please print clearly)

NAME

ADDRESS

CITY

STATE, ZIP

We will call if we have a question about your order: Daytime Phone

Method of payment:

❑ Check ❑ MO ❑COD

Credit Card: ❑ MasterCard ❑ Visa ❑ Discover

Minimum Credit Card order $10.00

(Account Number on Card) Expiration Date (Required)

Signature (Required if using credit card) Auth #

Page

No. Set of Item # Item Name/Description (incl. caliber, dia, if appropriate) Qty. Total

Price

Each

For Lyman questions, or to place an order, call toll-free 1-800-22 LYMAN (except foreign customers, who may call

(860) 632-2020). Hours: 9:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. Eastern time, Monday-Friday. TOTAL

TOTAL AMOUNT

SHIPPING AND

HANDLING CHARGES

CT. RESIDENTS ONLY:

Add 6% Sales Tax

SHIPPING &

HANDLING CHARGES

Under $10.00 . . . . . .add $4.00

$10.01-$50.00 . . . . .add $6.00

$50.01-$100.00 . . . .add $8.00

$100.01-up . . . . . . . .add $10.00

COD: Applicable charge will apply

Prices for continental U.S. only.

AK, HI, Canada, Foreign or COD:

Actual charges will apply Please Keep a Copy

of Your Order

Orders may also be placed through our website at lymanproducts.com

NOTE: Bullets and media orders subject to additional shipping charges

$1 for NRA Round-Up

(optional)

Send Orders To:

Lyman Black Powder Promotion

475 Smith Street

Middletown, CT 06457

Visit our complete Lyman website at

www.lymanproducts.com

Lyman Products 475 Smith Street, Middletown CT 06457

Phone: (860) 632-2020 Fax: (860) 632-1699 www.lymanproducts.com

Lyman introduces the Black Powder

Handbook that muzzleloaders have been

waiting for. This manual is entirely new,

from the ground up, and includes

thousands of pressure tested

loads using Goex and Elephant

Black Powders, Pyrodex and

Pyrodex Pellets. We feature a

large assortment of bullets with down

range velocities and energies for each

load, all developed in our

ballistics testing lab. This manual offers

the ultimate in black powder loading and

shooting technology.

Sam Fadala brings his well known expertise to this work covering every

aspect of muzzleloading, soup to nuts. Mike Venturino offers a special

section on Cowboy Action and Black Powder cartridge.

It’s the one manual every

black powder shooter should own!

Lyman Black Powder

Handbook & Loading Manual

Written by

Sam Fadala

LIMITED WARRANTY

Your Lyman product has been produced under rigid standards of

manufacture and inspection. However, if your Lyman product is found to

be defective in material or workmanship within 1 year from date of delivery

to the first retail purchaser, we will repair or replace it without charge.

If you require service under this warranty, please complete the warranty

repair notice form below and deliver your Lyman product, together with

your completed notice form, postage or freight prepaid to our factory at the

address below. Your Lyman product will be repaired or replaced and

returned to you within 60 days of our receipt. In making any return of a

Lyman product to the factory, be sure that it is packed with proper care to

protect it from damage in transit.

We are sorry, but our warranty cannot apply to a defect which results from

misuse, abuse, neglect, accident or improper care, or if your Lyman product

has been altered or repaired by anyone other than our factory personnel.

Please complete and return to us the attached warranty registration card.

LYMAN PRODUCTS CORPORATION

475 Smith St., Middletown, CT 06457

WARRANTY CARD

Product _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Date of First Purchase _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Model No. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Serial No. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Dealer Name & Address

DETACH AND PLACE IN ENVELOPE

Mail to: Lyman Products Corp.

Warranty Records Dept. BPUG

475 Smith St., Middletown, CT 06457

Lyman Products Corporation

Warranty Card

Please Complete All Sections

Mr.

Mrs.

Name 2. Age

Street Address City State ZIp

Product Purchased

Date Purchased

Lyman User's Guide PDF Blackpowder

Lyman Black Powder Lyman Black Powder

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