Ikea Kitchen Installation Step By Poster Assembly Instruction Step3_NA

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© Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2005.

3

Design and Quality

IKEA of Sweden

Hang the wall cabinets

AKURUM wall cabinets are mounted using a sturdy

steel suspension rail. This ensures a strong installation,

and makes it easier to hang and level the cabinets. In

most kitchens, it’s easiest to install the wall cabinets

first. This way there won’t be any base cabinets to work

around and you can more easily use a stepladder. If you

don’t have wall cabinets to install, go straight to Step 4.

If you haven’t already done so in Step 1, measure and

draw the position of the cabinets on the wall to be sure

everything will fit. It’s also important to mark any

uneven spots on the wall and smooth them out with

putty or shims.

Hang this poster on the wall

so you’ll have your hands free!

Important before you begin installing Begin installing the wall cabinets

1. Fill in irregularities

Start by checking the walls visually

and running a 4 foot level along the

surface. Mark any uneven spots such as

bows and high spots. If major problems

need to be fixed, it’s best to hire a

professional. It may also be necessary

to use shims when mounting wall

cabinets. Shims are often used to fill

in gaps and correct the angle: Use a

piece of wood, fibre-board or plywood

– depending on the size of the gap.

2. Check the floor for uneven spots

Find out if the floor is uneven. This is

important to consider if you want to

be sure there will be room for legs or

toekicks under all cabinets. Use a spirit

level to check the areas where you’ll be

installing base or high cabinets. Find

the floor’s highest and lowest points

and use a pen to mark them on the

wall.

3. Right-angled corners

Fit a combination square or right

angled wood panel into each corner,

and see if there are any gaps between

it and the wall. If the gap is more

than 1/4”, call your IKEA expert for

assistance. In a “U” shaped kitchen,

measure between opposite walls at

a number of spots to see if they are

parallel.

Good to know: If you will be

installing a high cabinet, don’t make

final adjustments or fully tighten

the screws until after the cabinet

is installed. It’s easier to see if

everything is level and fits correctly

when the cabinet is standing.

Good to know: Before installing the

fan cabinet saw a hole for the fan and

fan duct. Instructions are enclosed

with the fan. If you’re installing a fan

over a gas hob, you must follow spe-

cial regulations. These may be differ

from country to country. Before you

start, find out what regulations apply

in your country.v

4. Mark the level lines for the wall

cabinets and suspension rail

Using the high point on the floor

that you marked in Step 1, measure

up the wall 83-7/8” for the top of 30”

wall cabinets or 92-5/8” for 39” wall

cabinets. Next, locate the bottom of the

suspension rail by measuring down

2-1/2” from the first mark. Using your

4 foot level, draw level lines at both

points on the wall.

5. Finding the studs in drywall

At the marked suspension rail line, tap

the wall from the corner out (or use a

stud-finder) to check for the first stud.

Mark its position. While subsequent

studs are usually at 16” intervals, they

may be at 12” or 24” intervals in some

kitchens. Mark the location of each

stud along the line. This will show you

where to attach the suspension rail to

the wall.

6. Cut the suspension rail

Measure the length of the wall cabinets

to be installed along one wall. Include

the length of wall behind a high cabi-

net only if the high cabinet is 12” deep.

Subtract 1/4” from the overall measure-

ment. (This will leave 1/8” of space at

either end of the rail.) Use your hack

saw to cut the suspension rail to this

length.

7. Insert suspension rail hardware

Slide the suspension rail hardware into

the suspension rail before putting it up.

You’ll need two pieces per wall cabinet.

(Be sure to position one piece on each

side of the corner cabinet if your plan

calls for one.) You may find it helpful to

tape the hardware into place until the

rail goes up.

8. Secure the suspension rail

Secure the suspension rail to the studs,

aligning the bottom edge of the rail

with the level line marked on the wall.

If you found a bow in the wall of more

than 1/4” in Step 1, shim the suspen-

sion rail until it is straight. Should

the end of the rail fall between studs,

secure it to the wall with a heavy duty

anchor.

9. Hang the corner cabinet

Starting with the corner cabinet, align

one piece of the suspension rail hard-

ware with the predrilled hole at the top

of the cabinet. Position the second hole

and its hardware. Note: If you don’t

have a corner cabinet, install a cabinet

that fits against both the back and side

walls, allowing the filler space shown

on your plan.

10. Level and secure the cabinet

Fit the small metal plate over the bolt,

thread the nut loosely in place. Level

the cabinet, using shims at the bottom

edge if necessary. With your wrench,

loosely secure the cabinet hardware. Do

not tighten; this will allow you to make

adjustments once all of the cabinets are

installed.

11. Hang the remaining wall cabinets

Hang the rest of the cabinets in the

same way, aligning each with the

previous one. Use your C-clamps to

temporarily hold adjacent cabinets into

position. To avoid marring the surface

of your cabinets, use a small scrap

of wood between the clamp and the

cabinet.

12. Drill through cabinet walls

You’ll find predrilled holes on the

inside of each cabinet. For all doors

except ULRIKSDAL use a 3/16" drill bit

to drill through the fourth holes from

the top and bottom edges. (The second

and third holes are for the door hing-

es.) For ULRIKSDAL door, drill through

the second holes from the top and bot-

tom edges. (The hinges for ULRIKSDAL

fit into the third and fourth holes from

the top/bottom.)

13. Fasten cabinets together

Place the connection screws enclosed

with the cabinet frames into the holes

and tighten. Remove the C-clamps.

Continue fastening the remaining cabi-

nets together in the same way.

14. Tighten the mounting screws

When all wall cabinets have been

mounted, aligned and connected, and

final adjustments have been made,

tighten all of the mounting hardware.

Slide the plastic covers in place over

the metal corner bracket.

You’ve completed Step 3!

And the wall cabinets are in place.



Install base and high cabinets

Hang this poster on the wall

so you’ll have your hands free!

4

9. Drill through the cabinet walls

For all doors except ULRIKSDAL use a

3/16” drill bit to drill through the fourth

holes from the top and bottom edges.

For ULRIKSDAL door, drill through

the second holes from the top/bottom.

When installing a drawer cabinet, drill

through the fifth hole from the top.

8. Install the next base cabinet

Mark, drill, and insert the screws for the

next cabinet. Lift the cabinet into place,

carefully aligning it with the previous

cabinet. Use a G-clamp to fasten the

cabinets together temporarily.

7. Secure the cabinet to the wall

Tighten the screws, but not completely.

Be sure the cabinet is level, front-to-

back and side-to-side. Hint: If you plan

to install a lazy susan – do it now. It’s

much easier before the countertops are

in place.

6. Install the corner cabinet

Lift the corner cabinet back into place

and adjust the height of the legs so that

it stands level. Use a spirit level to be

sure.

5. Use the right screws and fittings

Drill holes at the spots you’ve marked.

Be sure to use drill bits, screws and fit-

tings that are appropriate for your wall

material. If you have a plaster wall and

there’s no wall stud where you’ve drilled,

insert a mooring screw before the screw

and tighten halfway.

Now it’s time for the base and high cabinets. Before

you begin, locate all plumbing, power sources and

other utilities. Mark around these and using a key-

hole saw, cut the appropriate openings before you

install the cabinets.

In the following steps, you’ll install the legs at the

front of the cabinets and secure a cabinet wall strip

to the wall. The wall strip is made of particleboard

and comes packed together with the toekicks. If you

prefer, instead of the wall strip for support, you can

put legs on the back of the cabinets.

10. Fasten cabinets together

Place the connection screws enclosed

with the cabinet frames into the pre-

drilled holes and tighten. Remove the

G-clamp. Continue in this fashion with

the remaining cabinets.

11. Install the high cabinet

The high cabinet should be installed the

same way you installed the base cabi-

nets. If you’re using cover panels on the

sides , follow the enclosed assem-bly in-

struction to mount them before install-

ing the cabinet.

12. Tighten all the screws

When all base cabinets have been

mounted and aligned, tighten all screws

into the wall. Now the high cabinet is in

place, make the final adjustments to the

wall cabinets and tighten all the screws.

13. Measure filler pieces

Check the wall with your level to see if

it is even and flat. If the wall is uneven,

skip to picture 16. If the wall is even,

measure the distance from the wall to

the cabinet and mark this distance at

the top and bottom of the filler piece.

14. Cut filler pieces

With a handsaw: draw a line connect-

ing the top and bottom marks on the

front side of the filler, and cut it with the

face side up. With a keyhole-saw: mark

both sides of the filler. Put masking tape

over the line on the front side to ensure

an even edge, without chipping. Cut it

with the back side up.

© Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2005.

Design and Quality

IKEA of Sweden

Good to know: Legs can be shared by

two cabinets. See the assembly instruc-

tions. Place the corner cabinet against

the wall so that its back edge is resting

on the wall strip. Through the holes at

the top back corners of the cabinet, mark

where to drill for the fixing screw. Set

the cabinet aside.

Good to know: If there’s no corner

cabinet, install the cabinet that will fit

against the back and side walls. Make

sure there’s enough room between the

cabinet and the side wall for the filler

piece.

3. Secure the wall strip

Align the top edge of the wall strip with

the level line you marked at 4-5/6" in

point 1, Step 4 . Secure it to the wall

studs. Should the end of the wall strip

fall between studs, secure it to the wall

with a mooring screw or expansion bolt.

4. Start with the corner cabinet

Attach legs to the front edges of the

cabinets according to the assembly in-

structions. If you are not using the wall

strip as support, attach back legs as well.

Always use a back leg at the end of the

run – it makes attaching the side toekick

easier. For more, see Good to know.

2. Cut base cabinet wall strips

Measure the length of the base and high

cabinets to be installed. Do not include

the wall space behind appliances. Cut

the wall strips into corresponding

lengths. Cut the strip 1–1/2” shorter

where a side toekick is planned.

15. Install filler pieces

Put the filler piece in place with the cut

edge against the wall. Attach by drill-

ing a screw through the predrilled holes

from the inside of the cabinet. To be sure

the filler piece stays in place, first fasten

a strip to the wall. Install other filler

pieces in the same way. When all filler

pieces are in place, go to 17.

17. The finishing touch

To produce an airtight seal between the

wall and the cabinet, you’ll need to caulk

around the filler pieces. Choose a well-

made latex/silicon brand (it doesn’t need

to be waterproof.) Tape alongside the

area to be caulked. Apply a bead of caulk

into the crevice. Dab your finger into

a 3-in-1 oil to prevent the caulk from

sticking, then run your finger along the

caulk, forcing it into the crevice. Re-

move the tape for an airtight seal and a

straight edge.

You’ve completed Step 4!

And the cabinet frames are in place.

16. Uneven walls

If the wall is not level and flat, the filler

must be cut to conform to the wall’s

shape. To do this, you’ll need to make

a template for tracing the wall’s shape

onto the filler. A piece of thin plywood

or heavy cardboard makes a suitable

template. You’ll also need a measur-

ing tape, pencil and compass. Cut the

template material so that it’s the same

height as the cabinet. Hold it in place

where the filler will be installed. Open

the compass a couple of inches and place

the point against the wall. Holding the

compass horizontal and level, follow the

line of the wall so that the pencil traces

a clear line on the template. To cut the

template to the correct width, measure

the distance from the farthest point on

the wall to the cabinet. Find the same

point on the template and mark it. Draw

a straight line from this point to the top

and bottom of the template to form the

flat edge that will fit against the cabinet.

Cut the template and check that it fits,

then trace the shape onto the filler and

follow the cutting directions in

picture 14.

1. Marking the level lines

Using the high point of the floor that you

marked earlier, measure up 4-5/16”. Use

a 4 foot level to draw a line on the wall

at this height. Now measure 34-1/2”

from the same point on the floor and

draw another level line. This will help

you level the top of the base cabinets.



Install the countertop

Now it’s time to install the countertops and sink.

When measuring and sawing the solid wood tops

throughout this step, we suggest placing them on

sawhorses for easiest handling. Once you’ve finished

Step 5, it’s a good idea to hire professionals to con-

nect the water, gas or electricity, and to install the

cooktop, dishwasher and lighting.

Hang the poster on the wall

so you’ll get your hands free!

5

© Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2005.

Design and Quality

IKEA of Sweden

1. Space between cabinets and walls

Lay the countertop on top of the base

cabinets, allowing ⅛” at the back walls,

and a smaller space against the side

wall or high cabinets. If you’re install-

ing tops in an “L” shape, the two sec-

tions must meet in a butt join. (Do not

make angle or mitrecut joins.) These

steps allow the counter to undergo nor-

mal expansion and contraction.

2. Exact measurement on

the countertop

Measure the countertop from the end

of the base cabinet row out, allowing

for the cover panel plus a ½” overhang.

Mark with a pencil on the finished side

if you’ll be using a handsaw and on the

underside if using a power saw.

3. Saw the countertop

If you’re sawing by hand, we recom-

mend using a fine-toothed handsaw

for control. To avoid splintering the

countertop, tape over the area to be

cut. If you’re using a circular saw, turn

the countertop face down and clamp a

straight-edge in place to guide the saw

along the cut line. Finish the cut edge

with your file. Treat the cut edge.

Good to know: If you have a kitchen

where two laminate countertops meet,

cover the join with a cover strip before

you screw the countertops into place.

Because of moisture and steam, it’s

important to have a moisture barrier

under the countertop where you have

the dishwasher. Use VARIABEL diffu-

sion barrier for extra protection.

Good to know: Sand and oil your

countertop regularly for long-term

beauty and protection. Stains and

minor damage can be removed us-

ing fine sandpaper. Wipe the sanded

surface clean and re-oil the affected

area.

4. Mark a spot for the sink

With the countertop in place, trace

the inside of the base cabinet on the

underside of the countertop. This helps

assure that the sink cutout will be

aligned correctly. Then, place the sink

upside down on the underside of the

countertop, positioning it correctly side

to side and front to back. Trace around

the edge of the sink with a pencil. Use a

pencil and a straight edge, draw a “cut”

line inside this line. Read more in the

assembly instruction that came with

your sink.

5. Saw the sink hole

Place the countertop on the sawhorses.

Drill a ½” hole for the keyhole-saw

blade at all four corners of the cut line.

Following this same cut line, saw the

hole for the sink unit.

6. Seal the sink cutout

To prevent moisture from penetrating

the countertop, apply a polyurethane

silicone along the cut edges with a

paintbrush.

7. Room for the sink?

Fit the countertop back into place on

the base cabinet. Check that the sink

hole is not obstructed by the top frame

rails of the base cabinet. If it is, you’ll

need to trim the rails so that the sink

will fit properly.

You’ve completed Step 5!

And all the countertops and the sink

are in place.

10. Sand and oil the countertop

Your solid wood countertop was pre-

treated at the factory to condition and

protect it until installation. To prepare

it for use, sand the surface with a fine

sandpaper and finish it with an ap-

proved wood treatment oil, for example

BEHANDLA.

9. Secure the countertop

Your countertop should be secured as

shown using the hardware provided.

The slotted brackets allow the counter-

top to expand and contract normally.

Set countertops in place, allowing the

same gaps as when you measured.

Locate attachment points at regular

intervals and drill pilot holes before

securing the top.

8. Install the sink

Lift off the countertop and turn it up-

side down, placing it back on your saw-

horses. Install the sink according to the

assembly instruction enclosed with it.



You only have you only have a few more things left

to do! But they’re important, so be sure to take your

time. Remember to install child-safe catches on the

doors and drawers, hob guards and any other devises

you’ve chosen to make the kitchen safer for your

children. Your new kitchen will then be a place for

the whole family to enjoy!

© Inter IKEA Systems B.V. 2005.

Design and Quality

IKEA of Sweden

Install drawers, shelves & lighting

The cabinets have predrilled holes for quick and easy

installation of shelving, drawers and interior fittings.

This also makes it simple to make adjustments or

add interior fittings later on.

If you need to attach cover panels to the cabinet

frames, put them on before you install interior

fittings, since they’re screwed on from the inside. Hang the poster on the wall

so you’ll get your hands free!

6

7

The finishing touches makes all the difference

1. Install cover panels

Temporarily secure the cover

panel into place using a G-clamp.

Drill pilot holes through the

cabinet frame from the inside of

the cabinets, being careful not

to drill through the cover panel.

Screw the cover panel into place.

Remember that the cover panels

must be shortened 2½” if you are

not going to install decor strips

underneath the wall cabinets

- saw the top edge so that the

sawn surface is not visible from

below.

2. Install lighting

Now it is time to install lighting

in your glass-door cabinets. Use

a qualified electrician for profes-

sional results.

3. Put the shelves in place

Insert four supports per shelf

into the predrilled holes in-

side each cabinet, then rest the

shelves on top of them. Think

about what you need to store,

and place the shelves to make

best use of the space. You can

move the supports and the

shelves anytime you wish.

4. Attach drawer fronts

Using the hardware provided,

mount each drawer front to the

drawer box through the

predrilled,prealigned holes.

5. Adjust drawer fronts

Use a screwdriver to adjust the

drawer fronts and assure they’re

perfectly aligned. Attach knobs

or handles to the drawer fronts

after you’ve installed the draw-

ers in the cabinet frames. This

makes it easier to be sure they

are all even, and at the same

level.

You’ve completed Step 6!

And shelves, lighting and draw-

ers are in place.

Good to know: The drawers

glide smoothly on sturdy self-

closing runners for years of

service. To set the drawer in the

open position, slide it out until

it stops, then tilt slightly up so

it clears the stop point on the

runner. To close the drawer tilt

it up again and roll it shut.

1. Saw toekicks

Carefully measure and mark

toekicks so that they cover the

open area below your base cabi-

nets. Cut the toekicks to the cor-

rect length using a fine-toothed

handsaw.

2. Finish the edges

Cover the cut edge of the toe-

kicks with the enclosed edging

strip. Press it on with a warm

iron, then cut it to the right

length.

3. Clip toekick into place

Follow the assembly instruction

for attaching the toekick clips.

At corners set one clip facing up

and the other down – this allows

them both to fit on the same leg.

Snap the toekick into place.

4. Attach decor strips

Measure, cut and fit the decor

strips beneath the wall cabinets.

Instructions for installation and

placement are included with the

decor strips. Remember to attach

the sealing strips.

5. Install mouldings/cornices

Follow the assembly instruction

included with the moulding/cor-

nice. Measure carefully so that

cornices will be the right length.

For best results, use a mitre box

saw to cut the corners of each

moulding/cornice at a 45° angle.

6. Attach the hinge plate

Screw the door hinge base plate

into the second and third pre-

drilled holes at the top/bottom.

For ULRIKSDAL door, you must

screw the hinge base plate into

the third and fourth predrilled

holes.)

9. Attach door handles

A template makes it easy to place

handles in the same position on

all doors. Be sure to check on

which side the door opens before

you mark and drill the holes.

Hold a block of wood behind the

You’ve completed Step 7!

And your entire kitchen is in

place and ready to use. Consider

complementing with wall acces-

sories that save space on the

worktop.

door at the place you are drill-

ing so that the surface doesn’t

splinter when the drill bit goes

through.

7. Snap the hinge to the door

Insert the hinge body into the

predrilled hole in the door and

press as shown. No screws are

needed.

7. Snap the hinge to the door

Insert the hinge body into the

predrilled hole in the door and

press as shown. No screws are

needed.

10. Attach door bumpers

Door bumpers allow you to close

the door quitely and softly. Screw

the bumpers on the upper inside

of the cabinet, on the opposite

side of the hinge. Follow the

assembly instruction. Or use the

smaller bumpers included with

the hinges.

