Kenmore 38512490 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0709233

KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Manual L0709233 KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Mechanical Sewing installation guides

User Manual: Kenmore 38512490 38512490 KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #38512490. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore SEWING MACHINE Manual

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INSTRUCTIONS

MODEL

(ZD

1249

. ZIG-

ZAG

SEWING

MACHINE

Sears,

Roebuck and Co.

Dear Homemaker:
You have just invested in a very fine stretch stitch sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and
carefully read this booklet which contains instructions
on how to operate and care for your machine.

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_FI:i:_)!

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Specific instructions
are given on threading, tension adjustments,
cIeaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and
avoid unnecessary
service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine
your nearest Sears Retail Store,

is always available

::ii!iil;!)_
:i_):;::i
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Please remember,
any correspondence
or reference
to your machine
must mention the model number and serial number of your machine.
Kenmore

Sewing

Machine

Record in space provided below the model number
and serial number of this appliance° The model number and serial number' are located on the nomenclature
plate, as identified
on Page 3 of this booklet.
Model No.
Retain these numbers

Serial No
for future reference.

! i:

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_;'_II_!I
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TABLE
OF
CONTENTS

Section

I Knowing

Your

Identifying

Parts

Installing

Machine

Converting
Winding

Sewing Machine

...................

2, 3

...................

to Free-arm
the Bobbin

Sewing

............

.......................

Threading

the Bobbin

Case

Threading

of Top Thread

5
6

................
..................

7
8

Using the Controls
Adjusting

Top Tension

Adjusting

Bobbin

...............

............

Tension

Checking Tensions
...................
Stitch Width Control
............

11
12, 13

Stitch Length Control
Reverse Stitch Control

............
................

12, 13
14

Stretch

................

Stitch

Control

Selector

...................

15, 16

Pressure Regulator
.....................
Sewing Light
...........................
Seam Guides
.....................

! 7
t8
19

Presser Foot

Lever

......................

Accessories
Needles

.........................

Needle, Thread and Fabric Chart
Presser Feet ..........................
Section

.........

|I Starting
to Sew ...................
Garment Construction
Stitches

Straight Stitching
Zigzag Stitching

.......................
...................

2
3

Stretch

..................

Stitching

Special

Finishing

Buttonhole
Blind

Stitches

Making

Hemming

Satin Stitching,
Zipper

.................

Appliqueing

Darning

Bar Tacking

Free-arm

Sewing

...................

Section

Performance

7
8

........................

Sewing,

11] Checking

............

....................

Button

Section

......................

Application

Mending,

..............

10
t 1

Problems

Caring for the Machine

Cleaning

Feed Dogs and Shuttle

Oiling

Under

Oiling

Underside

Arm

Cover Plate

.........
..........

......................

Oiling in Face Cover Plate ..................
Parts List
....................
Memo
....................................
Warranty

21
22

...........................

!
2
3
4
5, 6
7
8

Needle

Plate

12.

Stitch

Presser Foot

13.

Stretch

Stitch

Control

14.
15.

Stitch Length
Reverse Stitch

Control
Control

16.
17.

Light and Power Switch
Buttonhole
Stitch

3. Thread

Guide

4. Needle
5. Thread

Clamp
Guide

6, Top Thread

Screw

Tension

Face Cover Thread

Face Cover Plate

9. Take-up

Control
Guide

Lever

10. Upper Thread Guides
1 1, Stitch Selector

Width

Adjustor
18_ Extension
19. Support
20. Shuttle
2t.

Table

Leg
Cover

Free Arm

Control

22,
23,

Electric Cord
Nomenclature

24.

Clutch

Receptacle
Plate

Knob

28,

Bobbin

Winder

29.
30.

Pressure Regulator
Presser Foot Lever

25°

Hand Wheel

3t,

Thread

26,

Bobbin

Winder

32.

Presser Foot

27.

Thread

Spool

33.

Feed Dogs.

Pins

Tension

Disc

Cutter
Thumb

Screw

1_ ST_ L L i i!!_ J_,/_
_::_
C_i !i¸,i _ii

Fig. 1

Fig, 3

Discs

Fig, 2

To install the machine
in cabinet, position machine head on cabinet
platform
so that holes on bottom
of machine
match
those on board,
Insert washers
and screws and tighten into place° (Fig
1) (Follow
instructions
provided
with
Sears Cabinet,
Screws and washers are
supplied with cabinet.)
A separate base and cover is available to
carry the machine when needed.
To install machine
in carrying
case, set
machine into base, with word FRONT
in
base facing you, (Fig 2)

Fig. 4

Place
cover
on
machine
with
word
"SEARS"
on handle
facing
you., The
case slopes in the same direction
of the
machine
(Fig_ 3)
Push the speed control
plug onto threeprong connector_
Plug machine cord into
any 110-120
volt wall outlet.
Turn on
power by poshing light and power switch.
(Fig, 4)
Spool pins are packed in accessory box,
Screw thread spool pins in place securely
with a screw driver, Position
nylon discs
as shown in illustration.

, i¸ _

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Fig_ I

Fig

1. Remove
the extension
table from
the
machine
by folding
the support
leg up
and pulling
table to the Ieft. (Fig.. 1,2)

To replace the table, simply slide it along
the free arm to its original
position
and
place supporting
leg in down position
{Fig, 1 )

1. Release
knob

clutch

toward

turning

from
the top of the
bobbin
winder
shaft

clutch

you.

2. Draw thread
from
spool
bobbin
winder
tension

through
disc
as

shown,
3. Pull end of thread
bobbin as shown,
4. Place
shaft

bobbin
onto
with
end of

through
bobbin
thread

hole

winder
coming

bobbin.
to the

until it clicks. Holding
onto
thread, start machine. When
is slightly
filled,
sn_p off
thread.
5. Wind
thread
until
winder
Remove bobbin.
Clip thread.
6. Tighten

clutch

knob.

Push
right

end of
bobbin
end of

stops,

1. Remove

the

extension

the machine
left, Open the
ing down the
left side of the

table

from

by pulling
it to the
shuttle cover by pullembossed part on the
cover,

2. Raise needle to its highest position
by rotating
hand wheel toward you.
3. To
tle,

remove
pull

bobbin

open

4. Pull
bobbin
shuttle.

latch

case from

shut-

of bobbin

case,

case straight

out

Insert

bobbin

making
bobbin

sure thread
as shown.

6- Pull thread
shown.
7. Pull thread

into

through

under

bobbin
is coming

slot

tension

case
from

of case as

spring.

8., Holding
latch open, position
case
into shuttle,
and release latch. Case
should lock into place when latch is
released.

Fig_2

Fig.3

Fig_ 4

Fig. I

Place thread
on spool pin as shown
with thread
coming
from the back of
the spool.
Draw thread
through
the
top thread guides, Holding
the spool
stationary
with
right
hand, pull the
end of the thread between the tension
discs as shown.
Pull the spring wire
loop up and past the top hook until
the thread
can be slipped
into the
hook (See Fig° 2), When
released, the spring wire

the thread is
loop will re-

turn
to position
(See Fig. 3) with
thread
in proper
place. Release spool
of thread and continue
to thread machine exactly
as shown, Needle must
always
be threaded
in direction
as
shown in Fig. 4,
Hold

needle thread

loosely

in left

hand

and rotate hand wheel toward
you one
complete
turn, Bring bobbin thread up
by pulling upper thread° (Fig, 5).

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i
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i ¢_i:,,__:-'

Probably
the most important
control
on your machine is this one that regulates
your top thread tension.
It consists of discs between which the thread passes..
The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning
the dial. The higher the number, the tighter

the tenston°

There are many reasons for having to reset your tension_ The best tension for
one fabric may not be correct for another.. The required
tension depends upon
the stiffness
of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are making.
It is best to test the stitching
ing to make a garment

Upper

thread

on a scrap of the fabric

too tight
Decrease Tension

Upper

thread

too

loose
Increase

Tension

you

are using before

start-

............. ,t, ....._
Bobbin
If the
loosen

tension

............

requires

> :::}i,J
adjusting

stitch is satisfactory
the tension on both

as indicated

_,_ ;4 • _,,

_ _

less frequently

than the upper

but the seam is puckered,
the top and bottom threads.

thread

tension.

it may be necessary to
Be sure to balance them

on Page 9.

When adjusting
screwdriver.

D2CREASE

the tension

on the

bobbin

case, make

adjustments

-iEHStON

Turn

Counter

Turn

Clockwise

with

,__:.....

_ii} J;:i!_,i_,i;;:_i¸i̧iii::

The easiestway to checktensions is to sewa medium zig zagstitch on the fabric
you will be using, Usethe appropriate type of thread and needle. Usedifferent
colors of thread on the bobbin and upper spool
Sewa line of medium zig-zagstitches_The bobbin thread should not show on the
top of the fabric,,
Adjust the top tension if necessaryto achievethe stitch formation mentioned
above.

UNDESIRABLE

,}'

DESIRABLE

}
I to 5
Any Number
Horizontal

Presser" Foot

This type of stitching
greatly expands
the use of your machine,
This is the
feature
that enables you to overcast
seams, applique
and buttonhole.
Simply use the settings
indicated
in the
illustration
for the simple zigzag, Follow directions
given in the following
pages for more specific uses.

OVERCASTING
This is one of the more frequently

used

zigzag stitches in garment construction.
You may want to overcast along the
raw edge of each seam allowance
or
fold the raw edge toward
the garment
and stitch.

Fig. 1

Fig, 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Fig, 2 illustrates
the
folded
edge
stitched.
Stitch

Fig°2

so the needle

pierces

the fabric

just short of the outside edge, Raw or
worn edges of older garments
can be
overcast to prevent further
raveling.

INTERFACING
To
cut
I

/
!
/

DARTS

reduce bulk of interfacing
darts,
interfacing
down
center between

dart lines.
dart lines.
line from
Trim both

Overlap cut edges, matching
Zigzag stitch along marking
point to wide end of dart,
raw edges close to stitching.

STR_7C=°I
The stitches

STIWCIQIRI,
shown

special stitches

built

below

"
are a!l for

in to the machine

use with
for your

\I_
I\I
\I\
I_I
\I\
I\I

and knit

quick

selection.

Straight Stretch
Rickrack
Stretch
Overcast Stretch

Smocking

Serging

/\/

/\i

stretch

fabrics,

These are

Stretch
or Pine Leaf Stretch

\I\

(9 @ @@

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-_-=÷_÷-=_-=÷÷÷_

SETTINGS
Stitch

Selector

Stitch

Width

.....

',I'_
I Ilf

Stitch Length
Stretch Stitch

Control
Control
Control

....

0
G

,
•

maYP,"o

between
S and L
Zigzag Presser Foot
Use this stretch
fabric
and other

stitch
fabrics

with
that

knitted
stretch.

Sew as you do with
regular
straight
stitch seaming° The seam may be pressed open as with any regular seam, but
will stretch if necessary.

This is also a good stitch
to use on
curved seams regardless of the type of
fabric,
Any seam that will
receive a
great deal of strain when worn should
be sewn with the stretch stitch. Use in
children's
shorts and slacks as well as
adult

sports

clothes.

R':iCiK-RAC1K STRETCH

s-_a-_c, _ G

_,_-v, '_,,_J"_
_'V'w'w_,,_
,

SETTINGS
Stitch

Selector

Stitch

Width

Stitch Length
Stretch Stitch

Zigzag

, ..........
Control

......

Control
Control

......
.....

2 to 5
6
mark "
between
S and L

Presser Foot

Sew on stretch
fabrics in any area that
you
might
use a zigzag stitch.
This
stitch
can be used as a decorative
top
stitch as well.

STRETCH
/\/\/\/N/N/N/
N/\/\/\/\/\/\
/N/N/X/N/N/\/

SETTINGS
Step

Make a straight line of gathers
across
the fabric
that
you
wish to smock.

Step 2. Settings
Stitch Selector
..........
Stitch

Width

Stitch Length
Stretch Stitch

Zigzag

Control
Control
Control

::_i_
......
. _.
.....

5
6
marl< ",, "
between
S and L

Presser Foot

With a narrow
strip of fabric directly
under the line of gathering,
stitch over
the gathers. The design will be a series
of small diamonds.
When smocking
a garment,
the stitching should be done before the piece is
sewn into the garment.

STITCHING
SETTINGS
Stitch

Selector

Stitctn

Width

. .......
Control

Stitctn Length
Stretch Stitclq

Control
Control

....

....
....

6
mark " o
between
S and L

Zigzag Presser Foot
This is the same type of stitch used by
the garment industry
in making sportswear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to
t/4% The seam is formed and finished
in one operation,
It must be used when
you are making
swimwear,
ski pants
and
other
garments
that
require
stretch,
Fig. !

shows the raw edge finished.

Stitch
so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge.

Fig. 1

Raw or worn edges of older garments
can be overcast
to prevent
further
raveling,,

,_=_Gh'_JG

SETTt

Width

SIitch Length
Stretch Stitch

Zigzag

_TIT_..._

L_A_"
IIR]G

]

NGS

Sti_ch Selector
Stitch

PINE

o I _°,:;: TCH

, .......
Control
Control
Control

_
......
....
,

5
6
mark "
between
S and L

Presser foot

The serging or pine leaf stretch stitch
is equally useful with woven and knitted fabrics.
This stitch can be used in
making
elastic swimwear,
as well
as
overcasting
a neat edge on the seams.

V] I
Jl

LENGTHEN

ADJ USTI NG ST R ETCH
STITCH BALANCE
In stretch stitch sewing, Stretch Stitch
Control
should be in the detent
position between
S and L (black dotted
position)
for most materials.
Depending upon the type of fabric used, you
may need to adjust
this control
to
match forward
stitches of stretch sewing with
reverse motion
shorten
stretch
stitches,
trol slightly
turn toward

toward
"L"_

stitches.
To
turn the con-

"S".

To lengthen,

Rickrack Stretch

l
Smocking

Stretch

SHELL

STITCHi]_JG

This stitch used on the edge of nylon
tricot
makes a lovely Shell finish, Use
the following
settings:
SETTINGS

C
C

Stitch

Selector

Stitch

Width

Stitch Length
Stretch Stitch
Zigzag

i_i!
L

............
Control
Control
Control

_
....

o . 18
....
Horizontal

Presser Foot

When sewing this stitch,
allow needle
to just clear the right edge of the fabric when it zig zags.

After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many
finishing touches to be done, To aid your completion of your garment,the Kenmore has beendesignedto do the following tasks that formerly had to be done
by hand,

SETTINGS
Stitch
Stitch

Selector
,
Width Control

,
, _t--_]_-]:_e-[]_j
.......
5

Stitch Length Control
....
Green Zone
Strezchstitch
Control
, , Horizontal
Buttonhole
Guide Foot

Carefully
mark
the
buttonhole
length on your garment.
Place the
fabric with the buttonhole
marked
under the buttonhole
foot_ Pull the
guide foot {A) all the way forward
so that the index mark (B) is aligned with
the graduation
(C), with
thread
to rear, (Reproduction
of
the
identical
size buttonholes
is
facilitated
duations

with the aid of the graon the left side of the

buttonhole
guide foot.
These graduations are t/5" apart. Graduations
act as reference mark.)
2_

Set stitch

selector

at [].

Stitch

for-

ward until
you approach
the bottom
marking
of the buttonhole.
Stop sewing at the right stitch and
raise the needle to its highest position by turning
hand-wheel
toward
you manually.

Step 1

3o Set stitch selectorat [] and bartack
severaltimes at the bottom mark of
the buttonhole. Stop sewingat the
left stitch, Raiseneedleto its highest
position by turning handwheel
toward your

Step2
4. Set
the

stitch
other

selector
side of

at [] and sew
the buttonhole

until you approach the top marking
of the buttonhole.
Stop sewing at
the left stitch.
Raise the needle to
its highest

position.

Step 3

5, Set stitch selector at I_
bartack
several times to
buttonhole.

again
finish

Step 4

Always make a practice buttonhole
buttonhole
with the button you will

on a scrap of fabric
use,

you plan to use, Try

Always use an interfacing
in area of garment where buttonholes
are placed°
paper or regular interfacing
can be used. Tear paper away after stitching,
used,
For heavier

weight

fabrics,

and
the

loosen

your

top

tension

slightly,

the

Tissue
if it is

ADJUSTING
BUTTONHOLE
ST17CH
BALANCE

tf the right side of stitching
does not
exactly match the left side of stitching,
ajust
the
stitchings
by buttonholestitch adjusteh

When

the

left

side

coarse, turn the
plus "+" direction.

adjuster
'

buttonhole
toward

is
the

When the right side is coarse, turn the
adjuster
toward
the minus "-"
direction.

After
you finish
put the adjuster
positiom

buttonhole
back to the

sewing,
original

BL_D

HEMMING

SETTINGS
Stitch

Selector

Stitch

Width

Stitch Length
Stretch Stitch
Zigzag foot

nside of

1. Finish
desire.
width,

............
Control
Control
Control

_
....
. . .
. ° .

or edgestitcher

2 to 3
12 to 8
Horizontal
if available

edge of hem anyway
you
Turn
up hem appropriate
(Fig. 1)

Dress
ed Edge
Fig. 1
2. Fold garment
ing 1/8"
of
(Fig, 2)

away from hem leavhem edge extending,

Edge
Fig. 2
3, Place garment under presser foot in
such a manner that straight stitches
will be sewn on extended
edge. The
zigzag stitch should just catch the
fold of the garment.
(Fig° 3)

Fig. 3

4, Press both
Right

Side of

Hem
....

[_.t,',-"

_ ¢'.i,'? '._.f;tl

b :, i,

Fig. 4

sides of the finished

hem.

The right side of the garment
will
show only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4)

c_,_:_ _ _i _._i _ _'

....U ..... _ {
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Kenmore 38512490 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0709233

KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Manual L0709233 KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Mechanical Sewing installation guides

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