Kenmore 38512490 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0709233

KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Manual L0709233 KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Mechanical Sewing installation guides

User Manual: Kenmore 38512490 38512490 KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #38512490. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore SEWING MACHINE Manual

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Page Count: 52

INSTRUCTIONS

MODEL 1249 . ZIG- ZAG SEWING MACHINE

(ZD

Sears, Roebuck and Co.

Dear Homemaker:

You have just invested in a very fine stretch stitch sewing machine. Be-

fore using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and

carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to oper-

ate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cIean-

ing, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and

avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at

your nearest Sears Retail Store,

Please remember, any correspondence or reference to your machine

must mention the model number and serial number of your machine.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model number

and serial number of this appliance° The model num-

ber and serial number' are located on the nomenclature

plate, as identified on Page 3 of this booklet.

Model No. Serial No

Retain these numbers for future reference.

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TABLE OF

CONTENTS Section I Knowing Your Sewing Machine

Identifying Parts ................... 2, 3

Installing Machine ................... 4

Converting to Free-arm Sewing ............ 5

Winding the Bobbin ....................... 6

Threading the Bobbin Case ................ 7

Threading of Top Thread .................. 8

Using the Controls

Adjusting Top Tension ............... 9

Adjusting Bobbin Tension ............ 10

Checking Tensions ................... 11

Stitch Width Control ............ 12, 13

Stitch Length Control ............ 12, 13

Reverse Stitch Control ................ 14

Stretch Stitch Control ................ !4

Stitch Selector ................... 15, 16

Pressure Regulator ..................... ! 7

Sewing Light ........................... t8

Seam Guides ..................... 19

Presser Foot Lever ...................... 19

Accessories

Needles ......................... 20

Needle, Thread and Fabric Chart ......... 21

Presser Feet .......................... 22

Section |I Starting to Sew ................... 1

Garment Construction Stitches

Straight Stitching ....................... 2

Zigzag Stitching ................... 3

Stretch Stitching .................. 4

Special Finishing Stitches

Buttonhole Making ................. 5

Blind Hemming ...................... 6

Satin Stitching, Appliqueing ............ 7

Zipper Application .................... 8

Mending, Darning ........................ 9

Button Sewing, Bar Tacking .............. 10

Free-arm Sewing ................... t 1

Section 11] Checking Performance Problems

Section IV Caring for the Machine

Cleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle ......... !

Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate .......... 2

Oiling Underside ...................... 3

Oiling in Face Cover Plate .................. 4

Parts List .................... 5, 6

Memo .................................... 7

Warranty ........................... 8

I. Needle Plate

2. Presser Foot

3. Thread Guide

4. Needle Clamp Screw

5. Thread Guide

6, Top Thread Tension Control

7. Face Cover Thread Guide

8, Face Cover Plate

9. Take-up Lever

10. Upper Thread Guides

1 1, Stitch Selector

12. Stitch Width Control

13. Stretch Stitch Control

14. Stitch Length Control

15. Reverse Stitch Control

16. Light and Power Switch

17. Buttonhole Stitch

Adjustor

18_ Extension Table

19. Support Leg

20. Shuttle Cover

2t. Free Arm

22, Electric Cord Receptacle

23, Nomenclature Plate

24. Clutch Knob

25° Hand Wheel

26, Bobbin Winder

27. Thread Spool Pins

28, Bobbin Winder Tension Disc

29. Pressure Regulator

30. Presser Foot Lever

3t, Thread Cutter

32. Presser Foot Thumb Screw

33. Feed Dogs.

1_ ST_ LL ii!!_ J_,/__::_C_i !i¸,i _ii

Fig. 1 Fig, 3

Discs

Fig, 2 Fig. 4

1 To install the machine in cabinet, posi-

tion machine head on cabinet platform

so that holes on bottom of machine

match those on board, Insert washers

and screws and tighten into place° (Fig

1) (Follow instructions provided with

Sears Cabinet, Screws and washers are

supplied with cabinet.)

2, A separate base and cover is available to

carry the machine when needed.

To install machine in carrying case, set

machine into base, with word FRONT in

base facing you, (Fig 2)

Place cover on machine with word

"SEARS" on handle facing you., The

case slopes in the same direction of the

machine (Fig_ 3)

Push the speed control plug onto three-

prong connector_ Plug machine cord into

any 110-120 volt wall outlet. Turn on

power by poshing light and power switch.

(Fig, 4)

Spool pins are packed in accessory box,

Screw thread spool pins in place securely

with a screw driver, Position nylon discs

as shown in illustration.

:,i ¸ _ , ;. _ .-

• ,_,_ i _i_:i _i:_'_ i_i_:i!'i:i_i. __'_.i_ii_'_,,_ii_!_i_!_.'_/!/]__i_

Fig_ I

Fig 2

1. Remove the extension table from the

machine by folding the support leg up

and pulling table to the Ieft. (Fig.. 1,2)

2. To replace the table, simply slide it along

the free arm to its original position and

place supporting leg in down position

{Fig, 1 )

®®

1. Release clutch by turning clutch

knob toward you.

2. Draw thread from spool through

bobbin winder tension disc as

shown,

3. Pull end of thread through hole in

bobbin as shown,

4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder

shaft with end of thread coming

from the top of the bobbin. Push

bobbin winder shaft to the right

until it clicks. Holding onto end of

thread, start machine. When bobbin

is slightly filled, sn_p off end of

thread.

5. Wind thread until winder stops,

Remove bobbin. Clip thread.

6. Tighten clutch knob.

®®

@ ® ®

® ® ®

1. Remove the extension table from

the machine by pulling it to the

left, Open the shuttle cover by pull-

ing down the embossed part on the

left side of the cover,

2. Raise needle to its highest position

by rotating hand wheel toward you.

3. To remove bobbin case from shut-

tle, pull open latch of bobbin case,

4. Pull bobbin case straight out of

shuttle.

5. Insert bobbin into bobbin case

making sure thread is coming from

bobbin as shown.

6- Pull thread through slot of case as

shown.

7. Pull thread under tension spring.

8., Holding latch open, position case

into shuttle, and release latch. Case

should lock into place when latch is

released.

Fig_2

Fig.3

Fig. I

Fig_ 4

Place thread on spool pin as shown

with thread coming from the back of

the spool. Draw thread through the

top thread guides, Holding the spool

stationary with right hand, pull the

end of the thread between the tension

discs as shown. Pull the spring wire

loop up and past the top hook until

the thread can be slipped into the

hook (See Fig° 2), When the thread is

released, the spring wire loop will re-

turn to position (See Fig. 3) with

thread in proper place. Release spool

of thread and continue to thread ma-

chine exactly as shown, Needle must

always be threaded in direction as

shown in Fig. 4,

Hold needle thread loosely in left hand

and rotate hand wheel toward you one

complete turn, Bring bobbin thread up

by pulling upper thread° (Fig, 5).

i"i i

/:"L:_j!i S"ii* i_¸'___¸_:_i _0 _::_' _ i'¸i :!i!_i ¢_i:,,__:-'

Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates

your top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes..

The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial. The higher the num-

ber, the tighter the tenston°

There are many reasons for having to reset your tension_ The best tension for

one fabric may not be correct for another.. The required tension depends upon

the stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of fabric be-

ing sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are making.

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before start-

ing to make a garment

(_ Upper thread too tight

Decrease Tension

Upper thread too loose

Increase Tension

............ _,_ ;4 • _,, _ _

............. ,t, ....._ > :::}i,J

Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread tension.

If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to

loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads. Be sure to balance them

as indicated on Page 9.

When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make _ adjustments with a

screwdriver.

D2CREASE -iEHStON

Turn Counter Clockwise

Turn Clockwise

,__:..... _ii} J;:i!_,i_,i;;:_i¸¸iiii::

The easiestway to checktensions is to sewa medium zigzagstitch on the fabric

you will be using, Usethe appropriate type of thread and needle.Usedifferent

colors of thread on the bobbin and upper spool

Sewa line of medium zig-zagstitches_The bobbin thread should not show on the

top of the fabric,,

Adjust the top tension if necessaryto achievethe stitch formation mentioned

above.

UNDESIRABLE DESIRABLE

. ,}' , <L

.<L

TOP SIDE OF FABRIC

iii_i _ii/_: _L_ ¸ •

=control regulates the width of the stitch you select° THE HIGHER THE

i:: NUMBER-THE WIDER THE STITCH° You may vary your zigzag stitch width

by adjusting this control to the setting you desire.

_This control must be set on "'0" position in order to do straight stitching°

........

: iThe stitch length control regulates the length of the stitch you select, THE

IIGHER THE NUMBER_THE SHORTER THE STITCH.

;L ................. i

The number on stitch length control indicates the approximate number of stitch_

inch° The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the

:fabric you are sewing,

longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric.

,: Themiddle range of the control is the t0-12 stitch per inch range which is the

;ommonly used,

basting stitch is made by using the longest possible stitch setting-6 stitches per

green marking _ on the control is the setting used for the

stitches such as in Satin Stitching.

; marking on the control is the setting used for darning or embroider-

WIDTH

LENGTH

There are certain types of stitches that are used more often than others in your

garment construction. Because of their frequent use, you will soon realize the

convenience offered to you by this control. The desired stitch will be obtained

by turning the Stitch Selector Dialo

All stitches printed in yellow on the dial must be sewn with Stretch Stitch Con-

tro! set at the middle position between S and L.

Stitches printed in orange on the dial may be obtained with Stretch Stitch Con-

trol set at horizontal position.

_; i i:i : i_._ili ::;TIT_2 i-i .:,,i,Ii2,

.... :_t-, _ :BT !Td:-

The setting illustrated is the one used

for most of your stitching. At this set-

ting you may make straight stitch and

straight stretch stitch.

As each stitch is dependent upon the

setting of your other controls, careful-

ly read the directions in the next sec-

tion of the book for various stitches,

JLA

21!2__-,1:ZG ST iT C H &[,} D

_: [Ci RAC;, !; ::i_-_?,i_-i S f-!TCI-!

At this setting illustrated, you may

sew a simple zigzag stitch or a rickrack

stretch stitch_

w_ -Vlr

MA r77i

S[..[fli::3TLi!:H Ai'!i:}Ok,_i:_-

CL'!{.T }T'I:::-::}. }-t T_::F

Blind hems are made by using the set-

ting shown with the Stretch Stitch

Control at horizontal position. When

Stretch Stitch Control isset on middle

position between S and L, overcast

stretch stitching is made,,

:,_, _-,- ........" _i{ ,..-

You wilt find that much of your sew-

ing in the mending category. For this

reason you have been provided with a

stitch for the repair of tears. It is ac-

complished at the illustrated setting

with Stretch Stitch Control at hori-

zontal position. When the Stretch

Stitch Control is turned to middle

position between S and L, a smocking

stitch is obtained° For directions, see

the next section of this book.

NOTE:

!::!--i"ii'' _-'_ '' " _ .....-

........ L --

Serging or pine leaf stretch _s used for

seam finishing on all types of fabrics.

It is a stitch used in the garment in-

dustry, It forms a good looking seam,

stitching and overcasting the edges.

This stitch is useful for seaming of

swimwear, stretch ski pants and other

types of knit sportswear. The stretch

Stitch Control must be set on middle

position between S and Lo If the

Stretch Stitch Control is set at hori-

zontal position, a shell stitch can be

made.

For the exact settings for the above stitches see Section ]:[,

Pages 1 thru 11.

OiI-IIR;:.i ._: ]])JUS]'BilI;FNiL30i i\]IAOI-IIDJI Ii\I SEV_]ID]G

In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other small regu-

lators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine..

1::_ii E,(415{] 1:i1! ]I :ii¢£U 1.-S_-]'O ]G

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the pressure

on the presser foot. (See above).

To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is ob-

tainedo

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or

difficulty in guiding the fabric.. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the

fabric, reduce the pressure.

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure. Increase

pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.

Fig, 1

Fig, 2

The light and power switch shown in

Fig. 1 provides the electric current for

the motor as wel! as the light. In order

to operate the machine, this switch

must be on,

To turn on the light, depress the

switch. If you are interrupted while

sewing and must leave the machine un-

attended, just turn off the switch and

the machine cannot be started accio

dentally,

The sewing light is located in the face

cover as shown. To replace the bulb,

turn the light off and open the face

cover, Push the bulb up and turn the

bulb counter-clockwise and remove it

from the socket.

Push a new bulb in and turn it clock-

wise.

NOTE:

First, unplug the machine prior to re-

moving and replacing the bulb. Be

awarethat the light bulb may be warm_

Seamguidesare printed on either side

of the needle plate to aid you in guid-

ing your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE

EXTENDING ALONG THE RIGHT

SIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS

THE "ALL IMPORTANT" 5/8"

SEAM LINEo

Cornering Guide The cornering guides are convenient

when turning a square corner 5/8"

from the fabric edge. See next section

of this book for directions,

To aid you in the placement of heavy

fabrics under the presser foot, the

lever can raise foot beyond the normal

"up" position,, This is also an aid in

changing your presser feet.

tC 1

Flat

side

away

from

you

Use KENMORE needles. The size of

the needle should conform with the

size of the thread and both should be

suitable to the fabric (See next page),

Never use a bent needle or one with a

blunt poinL

Fig. l. shows you the exact length of

your needle° Be sure you never use one

in your machine that is not this exact

length.

"Q Needle" with blue shank is avail-

able at any store or service center of

Sears Roebuck and Co. This special

needle is to be used when sewing cer-

tain knits and difficult synthetic fab-

rics. if you experience skipped stitches

in any of your sewing, use "Q Needle".

Raise needle bar to its highest position

by turning the hand wheel toward

you° Loosen the needle clamp screw.

Holding the needle with the flat side

away from you, slip the needle into

the needle bar. When it is in as far as it

will go, tighten the needle clamp screw

with a screwdriver,

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

: 9-BROWN

• Or

11-ORANGE I

RECOMMENDED

THREAD SIZE STITCH LENGTH

I SETTtNG_ .........

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton

Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Silk A

i 50 Mercerized Cotton

4 RED i Mercerized Heavy-Duty

1 -or ! Polyester Core!Cotton

16-PURPLE Wrap

Silk A

Heavy Duty Mercerized

Cotton

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Silk A

18-GREEN

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

Q-BLUE

Buttonhole Twist

(Use as top thread only)

Polyester Core Cotton

Wrap

50 Mercerized Cotton

12 stitches

per inch

10 to 12 stitches

per inch

8 to 10 stitches

per inch

8 stitches

per inch

6 stitches

per inch

10 for Regular

6 for Stretch

Stitches

To change the various presser feet,

raise the presser bar to its highest posi-

tion by lifting the presser foot lever°

Loosen the presser foot thumb screw,

choose the proper foot, insert from

the bottom. Tighten the screw using

the large screw driver to make certain

the foot is secure.

A B C D

You have been given a variety of presser feet:

Ao Zigzag Foot

B. Satin Stitch Foot

C° Zipper Foot

D. Buttonhole Guide Foot

NOTE:

Additional feet and attachments are available at most large retail stores or

through the catalog. Please select attachments for left needle position with

low bar.

Sta ti g to Sew

Now that you are famitiar with the controts on your machine and with the

accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your

new Kenmore sewing machine Below are some good habits to follow each time

you sit down to sew:

1, Test the needle it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It

should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used, Do not be

afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of

synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of

natural fibers.

2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads

have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to

threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.

3, Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric

should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and

tension su itable to your fabric°

4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material

to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8"

seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam.

5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the

speed control, the faster the machine wit! sew,

6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam,

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point°

8, Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle, Never pull or

hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.

9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHES

STRAIGHT STITCHING

Set your machine just as shown in the

illustration in order to straight stitch,

It is important each dial has the fol-

lowing settings:

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector , _,_

......... _ tH

Stitch Width Control ....... 0

Stitch Length Control . . . t2 to 6

Stretch Stitch Control ..... Horizontal

Zigzag Presser Foot

You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of sewing-

temporary and permanent,

t. Temporary stitching-Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a

single layer of fabric, The various types of temporary stitching are:

Basting

Stay stitching

Guide line marking

2. Permanent stitching-This is the actual stitching that holds the garment togeth-

er, Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and there-

fore must be good looking,.

The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-t2 stitches per

inch. This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control,

You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple layers of

fabric and thicker seams, Some of these seams are:

Common two layer seams

Curved two layer seams

Top stitched three layer seams

Top stitched four layer seams

When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness, sew

slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area,

FASTENING A SEAl;i]

Be sure both threads are drawn back

under the presser foot. Lower needle

into fabric about 1/2 inch from begin-

ning of seam. Turn the reverse stitch

control clockwise and stitch in reverse

until needle reaches beginning of seam.

Release control and complete seam°

When you reach the end, turn the con-

trol clockwise and sew back over 1/2

inch of completed seam.

TURN3NG A SQUARe2 CQRf',JER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from the

fabric edge, stop stitching with the

needle tip piercing the fabric, when

reaching the cornering guide as shown.

Raise the presser foot, turn fabric.

New stitching line will align with 5/8"

seam guide on side of needle plate,

Lower the presser foot and begin

stitching in new direction.

ZJG ZAG S3"IITCHI?_G

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ......... _> }

Stitch Width Control .... I to 5

Stitch Length Control .... Any Number

Stretch Stitch Control .... Horizontal

Zigzag Presser" Foot

This type of stitching greatly expands

the use of your machine, This is the

feature that enables you to overcast

seams, applique and buttonhole. Sim-

ply use the settings indicated in the

illustration for the simple zigzag, Fol-

low directions given in the following

pages for more specific uses.

Fig. 1

Fig°2

OVERCASTING

This is one of the more frequently used

zigzag stitches in garment construction.

You may want to overcast along the

raw edge of each seam allowance or

fold the raw edge toward the garment

and stitch.

Fig, 1 shows the raw edge finished.

Fig, 2 illustrates the folded edge

stitched.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric

just short of the outside edge, Raw or

worn edges of older garments can be

overcast to prevent further raveling.

INTERFACING DARTS

To reduce bulk of interfacing darts,

cut interfacing down center between

dart lines. Overlap cut edges, matching

dart lines. Zigzag stitch along marking

line from point to wide end of dart,

Trim both raw edges close to stitching.

STR_7C=°I STIWCIQIRI, "

The stitches shown below are a!l for use with stretch and knit fabrics, These are

special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.

/\/

/\i

\I_

I\I

\I\

I_I

\I\

I\I

\I\

@ @@(9 ®

1. Straight Stretch

Rickrack Stretch

3, Overcast Stretch

4, Smocking Stretch

5. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch

S7tTCII][U G -_-=÷_÷-=_-=÷÷÷_

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ..... ',I'_

I Ilf

Stitch Width Control .... 0

Stitch Length Control ,

Stretch Stitch Control

Zigzag Presser Foot

•maYP,"o "

between

S and L

Use this stretch stitch with knitted

fabric and other fabrics that stretch.

Sew as you do with regular straight

stitch seaming° The seam may be press-

ed open as with any regular seam, but

will stretch if necessary.

This is also a good stitch to use on

curved seams regardless of the type of

fabric, Any seam that will receive a

great deal of strain when worn should

be sewn with the stretch stitch. Use in

children's shorts and slacks as well as

adult sports clothes.

R':iCiK-RAC1K STRETCH

s-_a-_c, _ G _,_-v, '_,,_,_'V'w'w_,,_J"_

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector , .......... _

Stitch Width Control ...... 2 to 5

Stitch Length Control ...... 6

Stretch Stitch Control ..... mark "

Zigzag Presser Foot

between

S and L

Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that

you might use a zigzag stitch. This

stitch can be used as a decorative top

stitch as well.

SETTINGS

STRETCH

/\/\/\/N/N/N/

N/\/\/\/\/\/\

/N/N/X/N/N/\/

Step 1. Make a straight line of gathers

across the fabric that you

wish to smock.

Step 2. Settings

Stitch Selector .......... ::_i_

Stitch Width Control ...... 5

Stitch Length Control . _ .6

Stretch Stitch Control ..... marl< ",, "

between

S and L

Zigzag Presser Foot

With a narrow strip of fabric directly

under the line of gathering, stitch over

the gathers. The design will be a series

of small diamonds.

When smocking a garment, the stitch-

ing should be done before the piece is

sewn into the garment.

Fig. 1

STITCHING

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector . ....... _

Stitctn Width Control .... 5

Stitctn Length Control .... 6

Stretch Stitclq Control .... mark "

Zigzag Presser Foot

between

S and L

This is the same type of stitch used by

the garment industry in making sports-

wear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to

t/4% The seam is formed and finished

in one operation, It must be used when

you are making swimwear, ski pants

and other garments that require

stretch,

Fig. ! shows the raw edge finished.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric

just short of the outside edge.

Raw or worn edges of older garments

can be overcast to prevent further

raveling,,

,_=_Gh'_JG OR PINE L_A_"

o I _°,:;: TCH _TIT_..._ IIR]G

SETTt NGS

Sti_ch Selector , ....... _

Stitch Width Control ...... 5

SIitch Length Control .... 6

Stretch Stitch Control , mark "

Zigzag Presser foot

]

The serging or pine leaf stretch stitch

is equally useful with woven and knitt-

ed fabrics. This stitch can be used in

making elastic swimwear, as well as

overcasting a neat edge on the seams.

between

S and L

V] I

LENGTHEN

lRickrack Stretch

Smocking Stretch

ADJ USTI NG ST R ETCH

STITCH BALANCE

In stretch stitch sewing, Stretch Stitch

Control should be in the detent posi-

tion between S and L (black dotted

position) for most materials. Depend-

ing upon the type of fabric used, you

may need to adjust this control to

match forward stitches of stretch sew-

ing with reverse motion stitches. To

shorten stretch stitches, turn the con-

trol slightly toward "S". To lengthen,

turn toward "L"_

i _

i_i! L

SHELL STITCHi]_JG

This stitch used on the edge of nylon

tricot makes a lovely Shell finish, Use

the following settings:

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ............ _

Stitch Width Control .... 5

Stitch Length Control o. 18

Stretch Stitch Control .... Horizontal

Zigzag Presser Foot

When sewing this stitch, allow needle

to just clear the right edge of the fab-

ric when it zig zags.

After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there arestill many

finishing touches to be done, To aid your completion of your garment,the Ken-

more has beendesignedto do the following tasks that formerly hadto be done

by hand,

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ,, , _t--_]_-]:_e-[]_j

Stitch Width Control ....... 5

Stitch Length Control .... Green Zone

Strezchstitch Control , , Horizontal

Buttonhole Guide Foot

Step 1

Carefully mark the buttonhole

length on your garment. Place the

fabric with the buttonhole marked

under the buttonhole foot_ Pull the

guide foot {A) all the way forward

so that the index mark (B) is align-

ed with the graduation (C), with

thread to rear, (Reproduction of

the identical size buttonholes is

facilitated with the aid of the gra-

duations on the left side of the

buttonhole guide foot. These gra-

duations are t/5" apart. Graduations

act as reference mark.)

Set stitch selector at []. Stitch for-

ward until you approach the bot-

tom marking of the buttonhole.

Stop sewing at the right stitch and

raise the needle to its highest posi-

tion by turning hand-wheel toward

you manually.

Step2

3o Set stitch selectorat [] and bartack

severaltimes at the bottom mark of

the buttonhole. Stop sewingat the

left stitch, Raiseneedleto its highest

position by turning handwheel

toward your

: Step 3

4. Set stitch selector at [] and sew

the other side of the buttonhole

until you approach the top marking

of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at

the left stitch. Raise the needle to

its highest position.

: Step 4

5, Set stitch selector at I_ again and

bartack several times to finish the

buttonhole.

Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, Try the

buttonhole with the button you will use,

Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed° Tissue

paper or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after stitching, if it is

used,

For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly,

ADJUSTING BUTTONHOLE

ST17CH BALANCE

tf the right side of stitching does not

exactly match the left side of stitching,

ajust the stitchings by buttonhole-

stitch adjusteh

When the left side of buttonhole is

coarse, turn the adjuster toward the

plus "+" direction. '

!When the right side is coarse, turn the

adjuster toward the minus "-" direc-

tion.

After you finish buttonhole sewing,

put the adjuster back to the original

positiom

BL_D HEMMING

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ............ _

Stitch Width Control .... 2 to 3

Stitch Length Control . . .12 to 8

Stretch Stitch Control .° . Horizontal

Zigzag foot or edgestitcher if available

nside of

Dress

ed Edge

Fig. 1

1. Finish edge of hem anyway you

desire. Turn up hem appropriate

width, (Fig. 1)

2. Fold garment away from hem leav-

ing 1/8" of hem edge extending,

(Fig, 2)

Edge

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Right Side of

Hem

.... [_.t,',-" _ ¢'.i,'? '._.f;tl b :, i,

Fig. 4

3, Place garment under presser foot in

such a manner that straight stitches

will be sewn on extended edge. The

zigzag stitch should just catch the

fold of the garment. (Fig° 3)

4, Press both sides of the finished hem.

The right side of the garment will

show only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4)

c_,_:_ _ _i _._i _ _' _n

....U..... _ {<eiecto ,s.::.

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches, This is an attractive stitch

used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole making_

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension

of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension

should be.

If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, use a backing of tissue paper or inter-

facing for a well formed stitch, Puckering of the material will be eliminated and

the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric.

As with all special stitches, it is best to make a sample design on your fabric

before starting the design on the garment..

o_ i tt,l,se,

'_'_'- "" SStiP, ..... "

bc,_I;_ 8S WI'(i'i b'[!EC_ q_i

Setect an applique design to be applied

to your garment and baste it in place.

Satin stitch around the raw edge of the

applique completely covering the edge.

You may want to do this with a con-

trasting color of thread or same color.

ZgPPER APPLOCA"C_ON

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ', ,..'"

Stitch Width Controt ..... 0

Stitch Length Control ...... 12

Stretch Stitch Control .... Horizontal

Zipper Foot

_K_Zipper foot

adjusting

screw

Thum_

screw

(right) Y

Fig,, t

Fig. 3

REGU'

Pin or baste zipper "to fabric and place

the work in position under the presser

foot. Loosen the zipper foot adjusting

screw to set the foot on the left side of

the needle, and sew the left side zipper

as shown. (Fig. 1) To sew the right-

side zipper, loosen the screw and bring

the foot to the right side of the needle.

_NV_S]BLE Z_PPER

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing

through the center hole of the foot

and one groove of the foot is riding on

the teeth of the zipper. See Fig. 2. Fol-

low the zipper manufacturer's instruc-

tions.

After zipper has been inserted, finish

sewing seam by shifting foot to side

position sewing through side notch.

CORDING

Foot can also be used to make cording

for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a

strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in

Fig, 3.

NOTE:

Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIP-

PER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible

zipper" and "cording", which can be

obtained at any stores of Sears Roe-

buck and Co,

4' ,4

vvv vvVVVV',

SETTIBiGS

Stitct_ Selectol ...........

Stitch Width Control ......

Stitch Length Control ....

Stre_ch Sdtch Control , ,

Zigzag PresserFoo_:

White Zone

Horizontal

To repair a straight or three-cornered

tear, position the tear under the needle

in such a way that the stitching catches

both sides of the tear. When mending a

three-cornered tear, stitch from each

end to the center. It is well to use a

piece of fabric under the tear for rein-

forcement.

b_!;C_ VViC]{;"i .,O_uuI

St;,:ch Le ng th Co nlLro I o

.... _, to "t0

St_e-tch Sdtciq Control .. . Horizontal

;::'resset- Foot P_-essure, -0

4_g __ag Poor

Stretch fabric between embroidery

hoops with hole centerd. Lower

presser bar and sew at a slow speed

moving fabric back and forth with a

steady rhythm to cover darning area.

When it is covered, turn fabric I/4 a

turn and sew layer of stitching across

first layer,

If fabric is thin or badly damaged in

hole area, you may want to put a

separate piece under the hole for

reinforcement.

ILl'it T Oi_,l SEIJVII]G

SETTINGS

Stitch Selector ........... -_}

Stitch Width Control ....... Must be

adjusted

Stitch Length Control . ,

Stretch Stitch Control .Horizontal

Zigzag Presser' Foot

1. Align two holes of button with slot

of presser foot and lower foot to

hold the button securely°

2. Turn hand wheel manually until

needle point is just above button°

3, Adjust stitch width control so needle

will enter left hole of the button.

4o Turn hand wheel again by hand so

needle enters second hole. Readjust

stitch width if necessary. Stitch a

number of times.

.Finish sewing with an extra two

inches of thread remaining. Draw

these threads to reverse side of

garment and tie°

SETTINGS

Stitch Setector , ........... _}

Stitch Width Control ..... 1to 5

Stitch Length Control . , .Green Zone

Stretch Stitch Control ...... Horizontal

Zigzag Presser Foot

This stitch is similar to a very short

satin stitch and is used to reinforce

points of strain such as corners of

pockets and straps on lingerie,

Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

This sewing machine can be used like a

flat bed machine, but easily converts

to free arm machine by removing the

extension table.,

The free arm enables you to sew tubu-

lar types of pieces more easily, Just

slip the sleeve or pants leg on the free

arm as shown above.

You will find many uses for this free

arm feature such as:

1. Mend elbows and knees of garments

more easily.

2, Sew in sleeves more easily, This is

especially true when sewing smaller

garments_

3, Applique, embroider or hem around

edges of cuffs or pants legs.

4. Sewing in elastic casings in skirts or

pants at the waistNne,

h--

-r-

;.=

4=,

;.=

m I

_oE

_°

oE_

-- 3

.- :g_

(j N

°o

._'13

0 ro

._JD

-5

¢o

.I3

_,. r_ _

_= -

Fig I

CLEANIb3G AS:t# OILING

Fig° i Cleaning the feed dogs with a

brush

To insure the best possible operation

of your machine, it is necessary to

keep the essential parts clean at all

times. Using a small brush, remove the

lint that accumulates in the shuttle

area and around the feed dogs°

Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly

-_--Lever

Shuttle Assembly

Shuttle Race Cover

Pointed

hook Shuttle

le drive-

Shuttle Race Fig, 2

To Clean the Shuttle Area:

1, This area must be kept free of dust,

lint and occasional tangled thread°

Raise the needle bar to its highest

point and remove the bobbin case,

2, Push levers of shuttle race aside and

lift shuttle race cover and shuttle

out,

3. Clean the shuttle race with small

brush.

4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin

of the shuttle and shuttle race, (see

arrows)

To Replace Shuttle Assembly:

1. Position shuttle race as illustrated

so that race is forming half moon

on the left side of the machine,

.Hold shuttle by center pin and posi-

tion shuttle so as to form a half

moon on the right side. Pointed

hook will be on the bottom.

3. Place shuttle race cover into place

over shuttle assembly.

4. Snap the levers into position°

Removearm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head°To re-

movecover plate, loosenup two top screwsandlift the coverplate asillustrated

below.

Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers to oil points indicated on

underside of machine. To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B), (C),

and (D) as shown below.

Open faco corot plate and o11 points in illustration_

PAW_S L_]SY

1 2 3 45

8910 11

12 13

18 19 20

14 15 16 17

PA _3_5 L_S'Y

All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service center.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING

INFORMATION:

1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION

3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically

transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.

Re£ No. Part No. Description

6510

*6862

1939

8286

2273

655O

6551

6552

6553

Shuttle

Bobbin case

Bobbin box with 10 bobbins

Bobbin winder rubber ring

Thread spool pin

Nylon disc

No. 9 Single needles (BRN)

*These items are not furnished with th,

instructions above.

No, 11 Single needles (ORG)

No. 14 Single needles (RED)

No. 16 Single needles (PUR)

6554

*6746

36353

6488O10O5

40390

687O

593401008

*6757

*6864

6797

40164

33379

6830

41670

41669

*6889

*6530

No, 18 Single needles (GRN)

"Q NEEDLES",,.,

Needle clamp with screw

Buttonhole guide foot

Standard zigzag foot

Satin stitch foot

Zipper foot

Needle threader

Light bulb

Motor be_t

Motor belt

Buttonhole opener

Large screw driver

Small screw driver

Oil and lint brush

Flower stitch attachment

machine, but may be ordered per

_ _ _°i__ _"ii

l_q z: I\il

_z-

WARRANTY

FULL 25 -YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE

HEAD

For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of

charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which

appear in the sewing machine head,

FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIP-

MENT OF SEWING MACHINE

For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free

of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which

appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine,

including motor, wiring, switch and speed control°

FULL 90 - DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND

MECHAN ICAL ADJUSTMENTS

For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of

charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service

necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except

for normal maintenance.

To obtain warranty service described above, SIMPLY CONTACT

THE NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN THE

UNITED STATES. This warranty applies only while this product

is in use in the United States°

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also

have other rights which vary from state to state.

"_"Jill- 'lilt, _ 'llll, "llll- 'ltlt+ +'qli, - _llti+ -Illl_ 'lilt+ _ 'llli, "IIII-4Iii1,

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Dept. 698/73tA, Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684

SEWING MACHINE

Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, should a

need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any

Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co_

Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.

The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on

your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine_

See Section 1, page 3 for location.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE

FOLLOWING INFORMATION :

*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be

electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution

Center for handling.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL 60684 U.S.A.

S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part Nor 6488000'15

Kenmore 38512490 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0709233

KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Manual L0709233 KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Mechanical Sewing installation guides

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