Kenmore 38515218400 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0311086

KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Manual L0311086 KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Mechanical Sewing installation guides

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User Manual: Kenmore 38515218400 38515218400 KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #38515218400. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore SEWING MACHINE Manual

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SERVICE MANUAL

SEWING MACHINE MODEL
385. 15218400
OCTOBER,

2003

CONTENTS
LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS .................................................................

1

WIND THE BOBBIN ..............................................................................................

2

PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD ..........................................................................

3

STITCH SELECTOR / STITCH LENGTH/STITCH

4

WIDTH CONTROLS .............

WHAT TO DO WHEN ............................................................................................

5-7

SERVICEACCESS
FACECOVER ......................................................................................
FRONT COVER ....................................................................................

8
9

REAR COVER ......................................................................................

10

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION .....................................................................................
BOBBIN TENSION ...............................................................................

11

PRESSER BAR HEIGHT ALIGNMENT ................................................
NEEDLE SWING ..................................................................................

13
14

NEEDLE DROP ....................................................................................

15
16
17

CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.l) ......................
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.2) ......................
FEED DOG HEIGHT ............................................................................
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT ........................................................................
NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE ..........................................................
DISTORTED PATTERN .......................................................................
BUTTONHOLE FEED BALANCE .........................................................

12

18
19
20
21
22

BARTACK FEED OF BUTTONHOLE ...................................................
BUTTONHOLE FUNCTION ..................................................................

23
24

DISENGAGEMENT

25

OF CAM FOLLOWER ..........................................

MOTOR BELT TENSION .....................................................................

26

TO REPLACE NEEDLE THREADER

27

PLATE ......................................

WIRING

..............................................................................................................

28

OILING

..............................................................................................................

29

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED ..............................................................................

Vl.0

30

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385. 15218400

LOCATE AND IDENTIFY THE PARTS
Bobbin Winder Thread guide

Spool Pins
Bobbin Winding Spindle

Thread Guide
Thread Take-up

J

Bobbin Winding Stopper

Lever.

Top thread tension Control _.
Stitch Length Control
Stitch Width Control
Face Plate
_rDial

Thread Cutter__
Needle Threader

Extension

Table (Accessory storage box)

Presser Foot Holder_

Needle Clamp
Needle
Carrying Handle
\
\
\
\

J
\

J

Presser Foot j

Handwheel \

Buttonhole

Free Arm

Power Switch

/

Machine _ocket

Lever

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385. 15218400

WIND THE BOBBIN
1.

PULL THE HANDWHEEL OUT.

2.

DRAW THREAD FROM SPOOL THROUGH BOBBIN WINDING TENSION DISCS (A).

3.

PULL END OF THREAD THROUGH BOBBIN AS SHOWN.
PLACE BOBBIN ONTO BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE (B) WITH END OF THREAD COMING
FROM THE TOP OF THE BOBBIN.
PUSH BOBBIN WINDING SPINDLE TO THE RIGHT UNTIL IT CLICKS.

4.

HOLDING

THE END OF THREAD,

START MACHINE.

WHEN BOBBIN IS SLIGHTLY

FILLED, SNIP OFF THE END OF THREAD.
5.

WIND THREAD UNTIL BOBBIN STOPS. REMOVE BOBBIN.

6.

PUSH THE HANDWHEEL

TO THE LEFT.

A,
\
\
\

\
\

'
Place bobbin in bobbin case making
sure thread feeds clockwise and is

2

Pull thread through slot of case as
shown.

coming from bobbin as shown.

S

S

J
J

4

Holding latch open, position case
into shuttle and release latch.

5

Case should lock into place when latch
is released.

2

3

S

Pull thread under tension spring
and through the opening as shown
above.

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

MODEL385.15218400

PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD
THE NUMBERED STEPS BELOW FOLLOW THE NUMBERS ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS.
DOTTED LINES SHOW PLACES WHERE LOOPS AND THEN IS PULLED TIGHT.
RAISE THE TAKE-UP LEVER TO ITS HIGHEST POSITION BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL
TOWARD YOU.
RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER.
PLACE SPOOL ON PIN WITH THREAD COMING FROM THE BACK OF THE SPOOL.
1.

DRAW THREAD THROUGH THE THREAD GUIDE.

2.

HOLDING

THREAD

TAUT WITH

RIGHT

HAND,

DRAW THREAD

DOWN INTO THE

TENSION AREA AND THEN AROUND THE CHECK SPRING HOLDER.
3.

FIRMLY DRAW THREAD UP AND THROUGH

THE TAKE-UP LEVER FROM RIGHT TO

LEFT.
4.

DRAW THE THREAD DOWN AND SLIP IT INTO THE LOWER THREAD GUIDE.

5.

DRAW THREAD DOWN AGAIN AND SLIP IT INTO THE NEEDLE BAR THREAD GUIDE.

6.

TREAD NEEDLE FROM FRONT TO BACK.
NOTE:

YOU MAY WANT TO CUT THE END OF THREAD WITH SHARP SCISSORS FOR
EASIER NEEDLE THREADING.

\

3

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

MODEL 385. 15218400

STITCH SELECTOR / STITCH LENGTH/
STITCH WIDTH CONTROLS
s
SETTING MARK
/

PATTERN
_'_
iI
BH t

3/4

5

6

_
7

"
8

9

10

BH 1

'_

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

910

s
STRETCH
8 V L 10_1_2_3--4

_=_

S_TCH

4
/

SETTING MARK

LENGTH

2

0

I
I
I

I
STRETCH
S V L10_1_2_314

_=_

TO SELECT STRETCH STITCHES, SET
THIS CONTROLATVPOSITION.

_0--1--2--3--4--5_

_0

1 2345_

_

Setting Mark

4

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

MODEL385.15218400

WHAT TO DO WHEN
CONDITION

1. SKIPPING
STITCHES

CAUSE

1. NEEDLE

HOW TO FIX

IS NOT INSERTED

REFERENCE

INSERT THE NEEDLE PROPERLY.

PROPERLY.
2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN.

CHANGE

3. INCORRECTLY

RETHREAD.

THREADED

4. NEEDLE OR THREAD
INAPPROPRIATE
FABRIC
5. SEWING

ARE

THE NEEDLE,

USE THE RECOMMENDED

FOR

SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD.

BEING SEWN.
ON STRETCH

USE A#11

BLUE TIP NEEDLE,

FABRIC
6. INAPPROPRIATE

NEEDLE

P.20

SEE MECHANICAL

BAR HEIGHT

ADJUSTMENT
"NEEDLE

7. INAPPROPRIATE NEEDLE

P.21

SEE MECHANICAL

TO HOOK TIMING

ADJUSTMENT
TIMING

8. INAPPROPRIATE

BAR HEIGHT".

NEEDLE

"NEEDLE

TO SHUTTLE".

SEE MECHANICAL

TO HOOK CLEARANCE

P.17,18

ADJUSTMENT"CLEARANCE
BETWEEN

NEEDLE AND

HOOK".

2. FABRIC NOT

1. INCORRECT

F.D. HEIGHT

P.19

SEE MECHANICAL

MOVING

ADJUSTMENT

"FEED DOG

HEIGHT".

2. THREAD ON BOTTOM SIDE
OF FABRIC IS JAMMED UP.

MAKE SURE TO BRING
BOTH NEEDLE
THREAD

AND BOBBIN

UNDER THE FOOT

WHEN STARTING
3. FEED DOG TEETH ARE

CHANGE

WORN,

5

SEWING.

THE FEED DOG.

SEWING MACHINE DIV.20

CONDITION
&BREAKING

CAUSE

HOW TO FIX

1. INITIAL SEWING

UPPER
THREAD

MODEL 385. 15218400

START WITH MEDIUM SPEED.

SPEED IS

TOO FAST.
2. THREAD

PATH IS

USE THE PROPER

INCORRECT.
3. NEEDLE

IS BENT OR DULL,
TENSION

REPLACE WITH A NEW NEEDLE.
IS ADJUST

TOO STRONG.

INAPPROPRIATE

FOR

AND THREAD

NEEDLE

FOR FABRIC

IN USE.

6. NEEDLE

EYE IS WORN,

CHANGE

7. NEEDLE

HOLE IN NEEDLE

REPAIR THE HOLE OR

1.

BOBBIN

REPLACE THE NEEDLE PLATE.

INCORRECTLY

THREAD

THREADED

BOBBIN CASE,

ADJUST

CASE

THE POSITION

OF

STOPPER,

3. LINT IS STUCK INSIDE THE
BOBBIN

BOBBIN

CORRECTLY.

2. TOO MUCH THREADIS

CLEAN THE HOOK RACE.

HOLDER,

4. THREAD QUALITYIS

CHANGETO A HIGH QUALITY

TOO LOW.

SEWING THREAD.

5. THREADISJAMMING

CLEAR OUTTHEJAMMING

AROUNDTHEBOBBIN.

THREAD,

6. BOBBINTHREADTENSIONIS

ADJUST BOBBIN THREAD

TOO STRONG.

TENSION

1. NEEDLE IS HITTING THE

BREAKS

THE NEEDLE.

PLATE IS WORN OR BURRED,

AROUND ON THEBOBBIN.

5. NEEDLE

CORRECTLY,

USE APPROPRIATE

FABRIC.

P.12

UPPER THREAD

TENSION

5. NEEDLE SIZE IS

THREAD

THREAD

PATH.

4. UPPER THREAD

4. BREAKING

REFERENCE

CORRECTLY,

SEE MECHANICAL

NEEDLE PLATE.

P.13

P.16

ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLEDROP."

2. NEEDLE IS BENT OR WORN.
3. NEEDLE IS HITTING THE

CHANGETHENEEDLE.
SEE MECHANICAL

HOOK RACE.

ADJUSTMENT

P.17, 18

"CLEARANCE

BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK".
4.

THE FABRIC MOVES WHILE

SEE MECHANICAL

THE NEEDLE IS PIERCING

ADJUSTMENT

"NEEDLE SWING".

IT, OR THE NEEDLE ZIGZAGS
WHILE
5.

IN FABRIC.

FABRIC IS BEING PULLED TOO

GUIDE THE FABRIC GENTLY

STRONGLY

WHILE SEWING.

WHILE SEWING.

6

P.15

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

CONDITION

MODEL385.15218400

CAUSE

6. NOISY
1.
OPERATION

BACKLASH
SHUTTLE

HOW TO FIX

BETWEEN

REFERENCE

SEE MECHANICAL

HOOK GEAR AND

ADJUSTMENT

P.18

"CLEARANCE

LOWERSHAFTGEARISTOO

BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOt_

GREAT.

(NO.2)".

2. LOWER SHAFT GEARIS

ELIMINATE

THE LOOSENESS

LOOSE.
&INAPPROPRIATE

BELT

P.26

SEE MECHANICAL

TENSION.

ADJUSTMENT"MOTOR

BELT

TENSION".

4. UPPERSHAFTGEARISLOOSE. ELIMINATETHELOOSENESS.

7. DEFORMATION
PATTERN

5. NOT ENOUGH OIL.

OIL ALL MOVING PARTS,

1. INAPPROPRIATE ZIGZAG

SEE MECHANICAL

SYNCHRONIZATION.

P.15

ADJUSTMENT"NEEDLE
SWING".

2. INAPPROPRIATE
DISENGAGEMENT

P.25

SEE MECHANICAL
OFCAM

ADJUSTMENT

FOLLOWER.

"DISENGAGEMENT

OFCAM

FOLLOWER".

3. UPPERTHREADTENSlON

ADJUST

IS TOO STRONG.
4. INAPPROPRIATE

UPPER THREAD

TENSION
FEED

SEE MECHANICAL

BALANCE.

ADJUSTMENT"DISTORTED
PATTERN".

7

P.12

CORRECTLY,

P.22

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

MODEL385.15218400

SERVICE ACCESS
FACE COVER
s

\
(B)

1.
2.
3.

OPEN THE FACE COVER (A).
REMOVE THE SCREWS (B).
TAKE THE FACE COVER (A) OFF.

8

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

SERVICE ACCESS
FRONT COVER

A

f

G
E

D

CAP
\

\

FRONT

COVER

H

/
J

TO REMOVE
1.

LOOSEN THE SET SCREWS (A), (B),AND (C), AND THEN, REMOVE THE FRONT COVER
BY REMOVING THE SET SCREWS (D) ,(E),(F),(G),(H),(I)AND
NOTE:

UNHOOK

THE TAB (L) FROM THE REAR COVER WHEN

FRONT COVER.
TO ATTACH
2.

(J).

FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE IN REVERSE.

9

REMOVING

THE

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

SERVICE ACCESS
REAR COVER

B

A

F

\

\

c

TO REMOVE
1.

REMOVE THE FACE COVER AND FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 8, 9)

2.

LOOSEN THE SETSCREWS

(A), (B) AND (C), AND REMOVE SETSCREWS (D), (E) AND

(F).
3.

PULL UP THE SPOOL PINS. REMOVE THE MACHINE SOCKET. REMOVE THE REAR
COVER CLEARING THE PRESSER FOOT LIFTER FROM THE SLIT ON THE COVER.

TO ATTACH
4.

FOLLOW THE ABOVE PROCEDURE

IN REVRSE.

lO

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
TOP TENSION
TO CHECK:
THE STANDARD

UPPER THREAD TENSION

SHOULD BE 65 - 95g WHEN PULLING THE

THREAD (COTTON THREAD #50) IN THE DIRECTION OF (B) WITH SETTING THE TENSION
DIAL AT "3". (MAKE SURE THE FOOT SHOULD BE LOWERED.)
IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE STANDARD RANGE, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS:
ADJUSTMENT

PROCEDURE:

1.

REMOVE THE FRONT COVER UNIT. (SEE PAGE 9.)

2.

TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF (D) WHEN THE UPPER THREAD
TENSION IS TOO TIGHT.
TURN THE ADJUSTING NUT (C) IN THE DIRECTION OF (E) WHEN THE UPPER THREAD
TENSION IS TOO LOOSE.

3.

ATTACH THE FRONT COVER UNIT.

C
\

11

\

\

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

MODEL385.15218400

MECHANICAL

ADJUSTMENT

BOBBIN TENSION
TO CHECK:
SET THE BOBBIN IN THE BOBBIN CASE AND PASS THE THREAD (COTTON #50) THROUGH
THE TENSION SPRING.
THE BOBBIN THREAD TENSION SHOULD BE 45 - 55g WHEN PULLING THE THREAD IN THE
DIRECTION OF (B).
IF THE TENSION IS OUT OF THE RANGE, ADJUST IT AS FOLLOWS:
ADJUSTMENT
1.

PROCEDURE:

TURN THE ADJUSTING

SCREW (C) IN THE DIRECTION

OF (D) WHEN THE BOBBIN

THREAD TENSION IS TOO TIGHT.
2.

TURN THE ADJUSTING

SCREW (C) IN THE DIRECTION

OF (E) WHEN THE BOBBIN

THREAD TENSION IS TOO LOOSE.

(B)

t

COTTON THREAD #50

12

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

MODEL385.15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
PRESSER BAR HEIGHT AND ALIGNMENT
TO CHECK:
1.

RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER (A).

2.

THE DISTANCE

BETWEEN

THE PRESSER FOOT (D) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE (E)

SHOULD BE 6.0MM (0.24").
ADJUSTMENT

PROCEDURE:

1.

REMOVE THE SCREW (B) AND TAKE THE LAMP SOCKET OFF.

2.

RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT LEVER AND LOOSEN THE SCREW (C) ON THE PRESSER
BAR HOLDER.
ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PRESSER FOOT (D) AND THE NEEDLE PLATE
(E) TO 6.0MM (0.24").

3.

TIGHTEN THE SCREW (C) SECURELY.

4.

TIGHTEN THE SCREW (B) TO SECURE THE LAMP SOCKET.
NOTE: WHENYOU

TIGHTEN THE SCREW (B), MAKE SURETHAT

PRESSER FOOT ARE PARALLEL
NEEDLE PLATE.

.... ""-.

BOTH SIDES OFTHE

TO THE FEED DOG SLOTS

(F) ON THE

(A)

ri

S,_,

(F)

i(O)

6.OMM

13

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

MODEL385.15218400

MECHANICAL

ADJUSTMENT

NEEDLE SWING
TO CHECK:
ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING ACCORDING

TO THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE,

IF THE

NEEDLE BAR STARTS MOVING SIDEWAYS WHILE THE NEEDLE IS IN THE FABRIC AT
SEWING THE ZIGZAG PATTERN (WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH).
ADJUSTMENT
1.

PROCEDURE:

SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL WITH MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH, AND REMOVE
THE FRONT COVER. (SEE PAGE 9.)

2.

LOOSEN TWO SET SCREWS.

3.

ADJUST THE NEEDLE SWING BY TURNING THE HANDWHEEL, WHILE HOLDING THE
WORM SO AS NOT TO ROTATE IT, UNTIL THE NEEDLE SWING STARTS AT 2 - 3MM
ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AFTER THE NEEDLE HAS COME OUT OF THE RIGHT SIDE
OF THE NEEDLE HOLE.

4.

TIGHTEN TWO SET SCREWS.

5.

MOUNT THE FRONT COVER.
NOTE: AFTER ADJUSTING THE NEEDLE SWING, CHECK THAT THE UPPER SHAFT
WORM AND GEAR ROTATE SMOOTHLY WITHOUT ANY BACKLASH BETWEEN
THEM.

GEAR

UPPER SHAFT WORM

SETSCREW
_PCS.)

I

2-3 MM

14

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

MODEL385.15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE DROP
TO CHECK:
WHEN THE NEEDLE SWINGSIN

MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH, THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE

BOTH
ENDS OF NEEDLE HOLE ON THE NEEDLE PLATE AND THE NEEDLE DROP POSITIONS
SHOULD BE EQUAL.
IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT

AS FOLLOWS:

ADJUSTMENTPROCEDURE:
1.

OPEN THE FACE PLATE.

2.

SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT MAXIMUM ZIGZAG WIDTH.

3.

LOOSEN THE SET SCREW.

4.

TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN TO ADJUST THE NEEDLE DROP.

5.

TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW.
NOTE:

CHECK THE HOOK TIMING AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT.

SET SCREW

ECCENTRIC

BOTH CLEARANCE

15

SHOULD BE EQUAL

PIN

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.l)
TO CHECK:
THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 -+0.10MM.
IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT
ADJUSTMENT

AS FOLLOWS:

PROCEDURE:

1.

OPEN THE FACE COVER.

2.

SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL " C i 3 ", WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL AT" 0"

3.

LOOSEN SET SCREW (A), AND MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO ARROWS
TO GET CLEARANCE BETWEEN -0.05 TO +0.10MM.

i

* WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO WIDE, MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO
DIRECTION (B).
* WHEN CLEARANCE IS TOO NARROW, MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER TO
DIRECTION (C).
NOTE: AFTER THIS ADJUSTMENT,

CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE

AND NEEDLE PLATE IS MORE THAN 0.15MM AS SHOWN IN FIGURE (D).
IF NOT, ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE
BY USING METHOD OF ADJUSTMENT NO.2 IN PAGE 13 AFTER READJUST THE
CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND NEEDLE PLATE MORE THAN 0.15MM.

SETSCREW_

DIRECTION

B

NEEDLE BAR SUPPORTER

-0.05-+0.

IOMM

CLEARANCE

BETWEEN

NEEDLE AND

NEEDLE PLATE IS MORE THAN
O.15MM

16

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

MODEL385.15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
CLEARANCE

BETWEEN NEEDLE AND HOOK (NO.2)

TO CHECK:
USE THIS ADJUSTMENT

NO.2 WHEN ADJUSTMENT

NO.1 CAN NOT BE USED.

THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE RACE SHOULD BE -0.05 - +0.10mm.
ADJUSTMENT

PROCEDURE:

1.

SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL AT "C i _ ", WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL AT

2.

REMOVE THE REAR COVER. (SEE PAGE 10.)

3.

LOOSEN THE SCREW (A) ON LOWER SHAFT BUSHING AND SLIDE THE GEAR ABOUT
0.5MM TO THE RIGHT TO MAKE A SLACK BETWEEN GEARS.

4.

LOWER THE NEEDLE AND LOOSEN THE TWO SHUTTLE RACE SET SCREWS (B).
MOVE THE SHUTTLE RACE UNIT AXIALLY EITHER FORWARD OR BACKWARD TO
ADJUST THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND THE SHUTTLE RACE IN THE
RANGE OF -0.05 - +0.10MM.

5.

SET THE PATTERN SELECT DIAL AT"
CHECK IF THE CLEARANCE

_

", TURN THE BALANCE WHEEL TO

BETWEEN THE NEEDLE AND INNER EDGES OF THE

SHUTTLE RACE SPRING AT THE LEFT AND RIGHT NEEDLE DROPS ARE EQUAL.
IF NOT, MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT

BY TURNING THE SHUTTLE RACE UNIT.

6.

TIGHTEN THE TWO SHUTTLE RACE SET SCREWS (B).

7.

LOOSEN THE SET SCREW ON LOWER SHAFT BUSHING AND SLIDE THE GEAR BACK
TO THE ORIGINAL POSITION WHILE ADJUSTING THE BACKLASH.

8.

TIGHTEN THE SCREW (A) FIRMLY.

9.

ATTACH THE REAR COVER.
NOTE:

THE BACKLASH PLAY SHOULD BE LESS THAN 0.3MM AND LOWER SHAFT
TURNS SMOOTHLY.
AFTER THE ADJUSTMENT,

CHECK THE HOOK TIMING.

CLEARANCE

SHOULD BE EQUAL

\
SHUTTLE

SET SCREW B (2 PCS.)
BUSHING

17

(FRONT)

\
RACE SPRING

SEWINGMACHINE
DIV.20

MODEL385.15218400

MECHANICAL

ADJUSTMENT

FEED DOG HEIGHT
MACHINE SETTING
1.

STITCH LENGTH:

2.

NEEDLE BAR:

SET AT 4.
AT ITS HIGHEST POSITION.

TO CHECK:
1.

RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT.

2.

PLACE THE FEED DOG HEIGHT GAUGE #68367 (A) ON THE NEEDLE PLATE.

3.

TURN THE HANDWHEEL

TOWARD YOU BY HAND AND CHECK THE FEED DOG

HEIGHT. REFER TO CHART BELOW.
ADJUSTMENT

PROCEDURE:

1.

OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER.

2.

LOOSEN THE SCREW (B) AND TURN THE ECCENTRIC PIN (C) IN EITHER DIRECTION
TO ADUST THE FEED DOG HEIGHT AS REQUIRED.

3.

TIGHTEN THE SCREW (B) SECURELY.

GAUG

EFEED DOG HEIGHT

FACE (A)
1.25MM

FACE (B) (RED)
1.00MM

NOT MOVING

MOVING

CORRECT

NOT MOVING

NOT MOVING

LOW

MOVING

MOVING

HIGH

(A) #68367
\

(c)

18

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT
MACHINE SETTING
1.

STITCH SELECTOR:

"C i Z)".

2.

WIDTH SELECTOR CONTROL:

i

SETAT 5

TO CHECK:
1.

OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER.

2.

REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A).

3.

REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B)
ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER.

4.

TURN THE HANDWHEEL TOWARD YOU BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR
REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION.

5.

THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO
HORIZONTAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B).

ADJUSTMENT

PROCEDURE:

1.

LOOSEN THE SCREW (C) OF THE NEEDLE BAR HOLDER (D).

2.

MOVE THE NEEDLE BAR (E) UP OR DOWN BY HAND UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST
PIN #68368 (A) COMES IN BETWEEN THE TWO HORIZONTAL
ENGRAVE ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B).

3.

TIGHTEN THE SCREW (C) SECURELY.

(B)#68366

THIS END OF THE
SHUTTLE

HOOK

DRIVER IS TO
TOUCH THE GAUGE

l!
(A)#68368

19

PARALLEL LINES

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385 15218400

MECHANICAL

ADJUSTMENT

NEEDLE TIMING TO SHUTTLE
MACHINE SETTING
i

1

STITCH SELECTOR:

2

WIDTH SELECTOR

"C I: D
CONTROL:

SET AT 5

TO CHECK:
1

OPEN THE SHUTTLE COVER.

2

REPLACE THE NEEDLE WITH THE TEST PIN #68368 (A).

3

REMOVE THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND INSERT THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B)

4

TURN THE HANDWHEEL

ONTO THE SHUTTLE DRIVER.
TOWARD YOU BY HAND UNTIL THE NEEDLE BAR

REACHES ITS LOWEST POSITION.
5

THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) SHOULD BE IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL
LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING GAUGE #68366 (B).

ADJUSTMENT

PROCEDURE:

1

REMOVE THE BELT COVER AND THE FRONT COVER.

2.

LOOSEN THE SCREWS (C) AND (D).

3

ROTATE THE SHUTTLE DRIVER UNTIL THE TIP OF THE TEST PIN #68368 (A) COMES
IN BETWEEN THE TWO VERTICAL LINES ENGRAVED ON THE RADIAL TIMING
GAUGE #68366 (B).

4.

TIGHTEN THE SCREWS (C) AND (D) SECURELY.

5

ATTACH THE FRONT COVER, THE BASE PLATE, AND THE BELT COVER.

i

J.:

•
i_

•, =

I.

..

.-_."
.
m

•

_.-,
.1..

<-"
Cd,

THIS END OF THE
SHUTTLE

HOOK

.

(B) #68366

(c)

_)

\
THE GAUGE

(O)

_,_

2O

SEWING MACHINE DIV. 20

MODEL 385. 15218400

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT
DISTORTED PATTERN
TO CHECK:
IF THE STRETCH STITCH PATTERNS ARE DISTORTED WITH SETTING THE STITCH
LENGTH CONTROL AT"

•

"

(IN CASE OF BEING A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FORWARD FEEDING AND BACKWARD
FEEDING DURING STRETCH STITCH PATTERNS), MAKE AN ADJUSTMENT
ADJUSTMENT

PROCEDURE:

1.

REMOVE THE CAP.

2.

SET THE PATTERN SELECTOR CONTROL AT"
CONTROL AT" •

3.

AS FOLLOWS:

ciiiD ", AND THE STITCH LENGTH

".

TURN THE STRETCH STITCH ADJUSTING SCREW IN THE DIRECTION OF (C)
WHEN A > B, OR IN THE DIRECTION OF (D) WHEN A < B.

4.

MOUNT THE CAP.

CAP
(C)

_

(D)

\

J

/
NOTCH

J STRECH

0

X

X

A=B

A>B

A
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Page Count                      : 32
Page Layout                     : SinglePage
Page Mode                       : UseNone
Producer                        : Goby Monitor Application version 3, 2, 1, 4
Create Date                     : Mon Aug 06 23:09:25 2007
Author                          : 
Title                           : 
Subject                         : 
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