Kenmore 3851788180 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0803272

KENMORE Electronic Sewing Manual L0803272 KENMORE Electronic Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Electronic Sewing installation guides

User Manual: Kenmore 3851788180 3851788180 KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #3851788180. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore KENMORE SEWING MACHINE Manual

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Page Count: 61

Kenmope

SEWING MACHINE 17881

OWNER'S MAN1

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Machine identification ...................... 2 _3

Accessories .............................. 4

Setting spool pins ........................... 5

Converting to free-arm sewing ............... 5

Pressure regulator, Presser foot lever ........... 6

Presser feet, Speed control plug ................ 7

Light and power switch, Sewing light ............ 8

Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate ....... 9

Needle, thread and fabric chart ................ t0

Needles, Placement of needle ................. 11

Winding the bobbin ...................... 12

Threading the bobbin thread .................. 13

Threading top thread ........................ 14

Picking up bobbin thread .................... 15

Adjusting top thread tensions ................ 16

STARTING TO SEW ....................... 17

SIMPLE SEWING

Straight stitching ..................... 18 _" 19

Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner

Zigzag stitching ......................... 20 *" 21

Checking tensions, Overcasting, Interfacing darts

UTI LITY AND STRETCH STITCH SEWING

Buttonhole making ..................... 22 _ 23

Blind hemming ......................... 24

Shell stitching .......................... 25

Box stitching .................................. 26

Fagoting, Two-point shell stitching ......... 27 "_ 28

Satin stitching, Appliqueing ................ 29 _ 30

Zipper application ..................... 31 _" 32

Mending, Darning ..................... 33 "_ 34

Button sewing, Bar tacking ............... 35 _ 36

Stretch stitching ...................... 37 _ 45

Adjusting stretch stitch balance,

Straight stretch, Rick-rack stretch,

Overcast stretch, Smocking stretch, Serging or

pine leaf stretch, Elastic stretch, Stretch

patching, Herring bone stretch

Geometric decorative stitching .............. 46

Free-arm sewing ......................... 47

CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS .... 48 _49

CARING FOR THE MACHINE

Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle .............. 50

Oiling under arm cover plate ................ 51

Oiling underside ........................ 52

Oiling in face cover plate .................. 53

Parts list ........................... 54 _ 55

USING PORTABLE CASE OR CABINET ....... 56

Bobbin Winder

Face Cover Plate

Threading Chart

Ex tension Table/, Thread Guide

Presser Foot Thumb Screw

Needle Plate

Thread Spool Pins

Thread Guide

Needle

Clamp Screw

Bobbin Cover

Plate

Hand Wheel

Push-Pull Clutch

Stretch Stitch Adjuster

Light and Power Switch

Electric Cord Receptacle

Presser Foot Lever

Free Arm

Nomenclature Plate

2. StitchWidthControt

[IN

3÷

/Stitch Length Controt

Stitch Seiector

"_5. Reverse Stitch Lever

This control regulates the length of the

stitch you select. _ i

The diaf is calibrated in stitches per inch.

The higher the number, the shorter the

stitch.

Fabric will not be fed when the dial is set at

"0 't"

The desired stitch will be obtained by

turning this Stitch Selector until the stitch

is indicated by the red line on the indicator

panel.

Note: To select a stitch, be sure needle :is

out of fabric at its highest position.

When reverse stitching iS needed, push down the lever and

hold there during sewing.

ACCESSORI ES

Accessory box h

Small screw driver

Large screw driver

Buttonhole opener

Bobbin

Spool pin

Spool pin fett

Lint brush

Darning plate

Buttonhole guide foot

Foot control

Spool pin disc

Straight stitch foot

Zipper foot

Owner's manual

SETTING SI:'OO L P'!NS

Spool Pins are packed in accessory box,

Screw thread spool pins in place securely with a screw driver.

Position spool pin discs and felts as shown in illustration.

/t4 _ _. spoolpin,_i_o

( 11 II'" s_'°O'_'° "

Slot

CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING

To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular material, remove the extension table from

the machine.

To return to flat-bed sewing, reposition the extension table inserting tabs of the base into

slot of the machine.

? _-_ESSU R E R I:._aU L s "i-} i_

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator.. This will release the pressure on the

presser foot.. (See above)

To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained..

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in

guiding the fabric_ If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the

pressure.

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure.. Increase pressure

when sewing lighter weight fabrics,.

PRESSER FOOT LEVER

To aid you in the placement of heavy

fabrics under the presser foot, the lever

can raise foot beyond the normal "up"

position, This is also an aid in changing

your presser feet,,

PRESSER FEET

To change the various presser feet, raise

the presser bar to its highest position by

lifting the presser foot levero Loosen the

presser foot thumb screw, choose the

proper foot, insert from the bottom.

Tighten the screw using the large screw

driver to make certain the foot is secure.

SPEED CONTROL PLUG

Insert the foot control plug onto the

three prong connector as shown at the

left, Connect the cord plug into any

t 10 "" 120 volt AC wall outlet.

LIGHT :-,^.r'_D_POWER SWI _CH

Turn on power by pushing light and

power switch,

Important safety feature

Your machine will not operate unless the

light/power switch is turned on,, Turning

on the power automatically illuminates

the whole stitching area. If you're inter-

rupted or stop sewing, turn off light/

power switch.

SEWING L_GHT

The sewing light is located in the face

cover as shown. To replace the bulb,

turn the light off and open the face

cover. Push the bulb up and turn the

bulb counter-clockwise and remove it

from the socket.

Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise.

NOTE :

First, unplug the machine prior to re-

moving and replacing the bulb, Be aware

that the light bulb may be warm.

(:!i _ Y : :: i i _:

FOOT L_C4 P_j L

Step on this control to start to sew, The

harder you press on the contro!, the

faster the machine will sew. Slow down

by reducing pressure on the control°

You may want to practice your speed at

different levels when you first use the

machine°

:: !71

cornering Guide

SEAM GUIDES

Seam guides are printed on either side of

the needle plate to aid you in guiding

your fabric, THE GUIDE LINE EXTEND-

ING ALONG THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE

NEEDLE PLATE IS THE "ALL IM-

PORTANT" 5/8" SEAM LINEo

The cornering guides are convenient when

turning a square corner 5/8" from the

fabric edge. See next section of this book

for directions.

_" _ i _ _ _ _ _ _7 •

• : :i I

DARNING PLATE

There are a few times when you want to

control the feeding of the fabric yourself,

Raise needle to its highest position and

raise presser foot,, Place darning plate

over needle plate aligning two pins of

darning plate with holes of needle plate.

You may then determine the movement

of the fabric yourself. See page 35 for

button sewing application,

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

11-ORANGE

14-RED

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton

Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton

Mercerized Heavy-Duty

Polyester CoreiCotton

Wrap

Sitk A

Heavy Duty Mercerized

Cotton

Polyester CoretCotton

Wrap

Silk A

RECOMMENDED

STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

12 stitches

per inch

10 to 12 stitches

per inch

8 to t0 stitches

per inch

8 stitches

per inch

16-PURPLE Buttonhole Twist 6 stitches

18-GREEN (Use as top thread only) per inch

1 !-STR ETCH

FABRIC NEEDLE-

;::BLUE i

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

50 Mercerized Cotton

10 to 12 stitches

per inch

Use KENMORE needles. The size of the

needle should conform with the size of

the thread and both should suit the

fabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded

by size for your convenience (See chart

on facing page)°

Never use a bent needle or one with a dull

point.

The exact length of your needle is shown

at left. Be sure you never use one m

your machine that is not this exact

length.

Flat

side

away

from

you

PLACEI_,_EHT OF NEEDLE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by

turning the hand wheel toward you,

Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding

the needle with the flat side away from

you, slip the needle into the needle bar.

When it is in as far as it will go, tighten

the needle clamp screw with small screw_

driver provided in the accessory box,

Needte clamp

1. Pull Push-pull Clutch away from

machine to disengage clutch,

2. Draw thread from spool through

bobbin winder tension disc as shown,

3, Pull end of thread through hole in

bobbin as shown,

4, Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft

with end of thread coming from the

top of the bobbin. Push bobbin

winder shaft to the right until it clicks,

Holding onto end of thread, start

machine. When bobbin is slightly

filled, snip off end of thread.

5, Wind thread until winder stops,

Remove bobbin. Clip thread.

6. Push in Push-pul! Clutch to" engage

clutch.

Bobbin cover

p ate

1_ Remove the bobbin cover plate by

pulling it toward you while pushing it

down stightlv.

2. Take the bobbin out and wind it,

(See page 12 for winding the bobbin.)

3o Insert bobbin into shuttle making sure

bobbin rotates counter clockwise°

4_ Pull 4-inches of thread through tension

slot of bobbin case and toward back of

machine as shown,,

5o Close the bobbin cover plate allowing

thread to emerge through slot in

needle plate°

Thenumberedstepsbelowfollow thenumbersontheillustrations.

Dotted lines show placeswhere the thread loops and then is

3ulledtight,

1. Drawthreadthroughthreadguide.

2. Draw thread into threading channel

toward you.

3, Drawthreaddownchannelandaround

thespringwireasshown.

4, Draw thread up & through take-up

lever,

5, Draw thread down and into thread

guide.

6. Thread then is slipped into needle bar

thread guide.

7o Thread needle from front to back.

PICkiNG UP BOBBIB_ TI4READ

1, Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle

thread loosely in left hand and rotate

handwheel toward you one complete

turn°

2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling

upper thread.

®3. Pull both threads under and to the

back of the presser foot, leaving 3 to

4 inches of thread clear.

If you cannot pick up bottom thread by

following steps given above, then

check:

t. Is needle threaded from front to

back?

2. Is thread tangled around needle?

3, ls there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming

from the shuttle?

4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?

ADJUSt _[_GTOP Lr_Rsr',m_.=_

TENSIONS

Probably the most important control on

your machine is this one that regulates

your top thread tension.

There are many reasons for having to

reset your tension. The best tension for

one fabric may not be correct for another°

The required tension depends upon the

stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the

fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being

sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are

making,

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap

of the fabric you are using before starting

to make a garment,, Use the straight

stitch function as shown at the right°

An ideal straight stitch will have

threads locked between the two

layers of fabric.

Setting mark

Upper thread too tight

Decrease __

Tension _ \ _;¢:::_j_

U Dper thread 1oo loose

1ncrease -_

Tension

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories

provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing

machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:

Test the needle.. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point° It should be

the correct size for the fabric and thread being used Do not be afraid to change your

needle frequently° Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the

needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers,,

2o Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been

drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine° Hold on to threads during the sewing

of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam,

3o Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, The fabric should be

double thickness, Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to

your fabric°

4, Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left

of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on

the needle plate when making a simple seam,

5, Run the machine at a slow even speed, The more pressure you put on the foot control,

the faster the machine will sew,,

6, Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.

7,, Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point°

8_ Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the

fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.

9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you°

STRiAtGFIT STITCHING

Top thread tension

control 3 to 6

Presser foot

Stitch length

6to 12

Stitch width 0 Stitch selector

::Vml_

You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of sewing-temporary

and permanent.

1. Temporary stitching-Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer

of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are:

Basting

Stay stitching

Guide line marking

2. Permanent stitching. This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together° Much

of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good

looking.

The best_[ength stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-12 stitches per inch° This is

in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.

You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple layers of fabric

and thicker seams° Some of these seams are:

Common two layer seams

Curved two layer seams

Top stitched three layer seams

Top stitched four layer seams

When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness, sew slowly and

carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area.

FASTENtNG A SEAM

Be sure both threads are drawn back

under the presser foot. Lower needle

into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning

of seam_ Press and hold reverse stitch

lever down and stitch in reverse until

needle reaches beginning of seam

Release the reverse lever and complete

seam° When you reach the end, press the

reverse lever down again and sew back

over 1/2 inch of completed seam

TURNING A SQUARE CORNER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from the

fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle

tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the

cornering guide as shown. Raise the

presser foot, turn fabric. New stitching

line will align with 5/8" seam guide on

side of needle plate. Lower the presser

foot and begin stitching in new direction.

Z_GZAG STITCHING

/VVV',.i\

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length

6 to 24 Stitch width

t to 5 Stitch selector

[ ....

This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature that

enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons. Simply use the settings

indicated in the illustration for the simple zigzag. Follow directions given in the following

pages for more specific uses.

The easiest way to check tensions is to

sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric

you will be using.

Use the appropriate type of thread and

needle. Use different colors of thread on

the bobbin and upper spool.

Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches.

The bobbin thread should not show on

the top of the fabric.

Adjust the top tension if necessary to

achieve the stitch formation mentioned

above.

This tension control is very sensitive.

You may want to reduce the tension

towards 0 when sewing wide stitches on

soft fabric_ This reduction of tension

will tend to eliminate puckering of soft

fabrics,

UNDESIRABLE DESIRABLE

iiiiiiii!!i i!!i!ill

TOP SIDE OF FABRIC

Fig

Fig 2

OV E RCAST[_t",_G

This is one of the more frequently used

zigzag stitches in garment construction.

You may want to overcast along the raw

edge of each seam allowance or fold the

raw edge toward the garment and stitch.

Fig, ! shows the raw edge finished.

Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched,

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just

short of the outside edge. Raw or worn

edges of older garments can be overcast

to prevent further raveling.

INTERFACING DARTS

To reduce bulk of interfacing darts, cut

interfacing down center between dart

lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart

lines,. Zigzag stitch along marking line

from point to wide end of dart° Trim

both raw edges close to stitching.

:UTU L _T'_,/A?4D S _RETOH STfT_ooH SEWUH_s

BUTTONHOLE MAI(_NG

Top thread tension

ontrol 0 to 4

Presserfoot

Stitch iength Stitch width

Blue Zone "t_ 3 to 5 Stitch selector

i:i:_ !ii,iI:_,

_D :}<

_i_ _ii=_i_:i_

_'_ _'_ _ _i_"

1, Carefully mark the buttonhole tength

on your garment. Place the fabric

with the buttonhole marked under the

buttonhole foot. Pull the guide foot

(A) all the way forward so that the

index mark (B) is aligned with the

graduation (C), with thread to rear°

(The markings on the left side of foot

will help you in making all your

buttonholes the same size,, Gradu-

ations act as reference mark°)

2. Set stitch selector at r--_q. Stitch for-

ward until you approach the bot-

tom marking of the buttonhole,

Stop sewing at the right stitch and

raise the needle to its highest position

by turning hand-wheel toward you

manually.

3. Set stitch selector at EC3]and bartack

5 or 6 stitches at the bottom mark of

the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the

left stitcho Raise needle to its highest

position by turning handwheel toward

you.

4. Set stitch selector at I_and sew the

other side of the buttonhole until you

approach the top marking of the

buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left

stitch, Raise the needle to its highest

position°

c=.r.m

5° Set stitch selector at IZC331again and

bartack 5 or 6 stitches to finish the

buttonhole,

Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, Try the buttonhole

with the button you will use,

Always use an interfacing in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. Tissue paper

or regular interfacing can be used,, Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used.

For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly.

BL_ND H EMMI[_xtG

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length

8 to 24

k J

Stitch width

2to3 Stitch selector

LA_A_

z'VV_ :

-=-=_-_

Fig, I

t, Finish edge of hem anyway you

desire. Turn up hem appropriate

width_ (Fig° 1)

_dEdge

Fig 2

2, Fold garment away from hem leav-

ing 1/8" of hem edge extending.

(Fig. 2)

_er

.... Foot Fig 3

3. Place garment under presser foot in

such a way that narrow zigzag

stitches will be sewn on extended

edge, The wide zigzag stitch should

just catch the fold of the garment,

(Fig° 3)

Right Side of

ished Hem

Fig, 4

4. Press both sides of the finished hem,

The right side of the garment will

show only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4)

SMELL STITCHING

Top thread tension

control 4 to 9

c o :/{

Presserfoot

Stitch length Stitch width

12 to 24 3 to 5 Stitch selector

This stitch used on the edge of nylon

tricot makes an attractive edge stitch

called Shell Stitching.

When sewing this stitch, allow needle to

just clear the right edge of the fabric

when it zigzags.

You may need to tighten top thread

tension slightly to obtain desired effect°

BOX STITCHING

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Stitch length

12 to 24

Stitch width

3to5 Stitch selector

:_ll_ ¸ (

i.iv_ L ¸

This is a good stitch to use in attaching or

binding elastic fabrics and stretch lace,

lingerie stretch knit.

The stitch is decorative as well as useful.

1_-._ F

DECORATIVE EDGING

Turn the raw edge under 2" and press.

Place the fabric right side up with the

middle of the turnover under the center

of the presser foot, so that the stitch sews

on to the fold and just over the raw edge

underneath.

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Stitch length

Blue Zone _ to 12 Stitch width

5Stitch selector

Presser foot

This is a popular decorative stitch (used

in sleeves or fronts of blouses and dresses).

To attach two separate pieces of fabric

together, leave a little space inbetween,

To prepare the fabric:

Fold under the seam allowances on the

cut edges, and press° Baste folded edges

to tissue paper with about 1/8" space

between, Stitch over the 1/8" allowance,

just catching the fabric fold on both sides

with needle° Remove bastings and paper;

press,,

WO-PO NT SHELL STfTCI4_NG

t_ /\ &

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

[ : :

Stitch length

_lue Zone _;:::_to 12

Stitch width

3to5

Presser foot

Stitch selector

_- i¸ _ i

This stitch can also be used as a single

overlock stitch as well.

SAT_N STFi-CHtNG

I,t A / II,A114,1ii/ At,14/

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length

Blue Zone 1C_

Stitch width

2to5 Stitch selector

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. This is an attractive stitch used for

appliqueing, buttonhole making.

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is wetl to remember to loosen the tension of the top

thread slightly, The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should beo

If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or

interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material wilt be eliminated and the

bobbin thread will not be visible on the top side of the fabric.

It is best to practice a sample design on a fabric scrap before sewing design on garment.

APPL I:QUEII',IG

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length

Blue Zone 1C_

Stitch width

2 to5 Stitch selector

Select an applique design to be applied

to your garment and baste it in place°

Satin stitch around the raw edge of the

applique completely covering the edge.

You may want to do this with a con-

trasting color of thread or self color,

Z_PPER APP L_CAT_ON

Stitch length

12 Stitch width 0 Stitch selector

Top thread tension

control 3 to 6

Presser foot

/:m:

V ::: :

(right) : : :

REGU:LAR ZIPPER

Pin or baste zipper to fabric and place the

work in position under the presser foot,

Loosen the zipper foot adjusting screw

to set the foot on the left side of the

needle, and sew the left side zipper as

shown° (Fig. 1) To sew the rightside

zipper, loosen the screw and bring the

foot to the right side of the needle.

INVISIBLE ZIPPER

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing

through the center hole of the foot and

one groove of the foot is riding on the

teeth of the zipper. See Fig. 2o Follow

the zipper manufacturer's instructions.

After zipper has been inserted, finish

sewing seam by shifting foot to side

position sewing through side notch

Fig. 3

CORDING

Foot can also be used to make cording

for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a

strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in

Fig. 3.

NOTE :

Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIP _

PER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible zipper"

and "cording", which can be obtained at

any stores of Sears Roebuck and Co.

\\ /\ i_

I\/A\ l/_\

V _7 V \_

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

: 1 1

Presser foot

Stitch length

Blue Zone

Stitch width

5Stitch selector

>_,J_£ iI, _

:iii:_i/i i_

!/VV_

To repair a straight or three-cornered

tear, position the tear under the needle

in such a way that the stitching catches

both sides of the tear, When mending a

three-cornered tear, stitch from each

end to the center. It is well to use a

piece of fabric under the tear for rein-

forcement,

DARNING

Top thread tension

control 3 to 6

Presser foot

Stitch length

8 to 10

_ J

Stitch width 0 Stitch selector

Use Darning plate (See page 9)

Push down the outer ring of the pressure

regulator to release the pressure on the

presser foot, (See page 6)

Stretch fabric between embroidery hoops

with hole centered. Lower presser bar

and sew at a slow speed moving fabric

back and forth with a steady rhythm to

cover darning area, When it is covered,

turn fabric 1/4 a turn and sew layer of

stitching across first layer.

If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole

area, you may want to put a separate

piece under the hole for reinforcement.

Be sure to return pressure on presser foot

to original adjustment after darning°

(See page 6)

BUTTON oEv,JING

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch tength

Any number

(not necessary

to adjust)

Stitch width

Must be adjusted

.... :

Stitch selector

:_,. : :

[

:..v:..'. :

Use Darning plate (See page 9)

,Align two holes of button with slot of

presser foot and lower foot to hold

the button securely,

2. Turn hand wheel manually until

needle point is just above button,

3. Adjust stitch width control so needle

will enter left hole of the button.

4, Turn hand wheel again by hand so

needle enters second hole. Readjust

stitch width if necessary, Stitch a

number of times.

5_ Finish sewing with an extra two inches

of thread remaining. Draw these

threads to reverse side of garment and

tie_

BAR T_CKING

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length Stitch width

Blue Zone _ 1 to 5 Stitch selector

}

)

J.........

This stitch is similar to a very short satin

stitch and is used to reinforce points of

strain such as corners of pockets and

straps on lingerie,

Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics, These are special

stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.

i q _:%

\t\

/\/

/,_/

/\/

@®®® ®

Smocking stretch

i \

®®

1. Straight Stretch

2. Rickrack Stretch

3. Overcast Stretch

4. Smocking Stretch

5. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch

6. Elastic Stretch

7. Stretch Patching

8. Herring Bone Stretch

ADJ'USTtP:dG STRETCH

In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch

adjuster should usually be in a neutral

position (between "+" and "-", or 1_

position). When sewing some fabrics, you

may need to adjust this control to

balance the stitches for appearance sake.

If design seems open tike the illustrations

to the left, adjust the control slightly

toward "-'" until design looks like the

center design.

If the design appears to be closed as in

the right hand illustrations, turn the

control toward "+" until stitching is as

you desire.

Ricl

STRAIGHT 8TR ETCH

.... ""In

Top thread tension

control 3 to 6

Presser foot

Stitch length

Any number

(not necessary

to adjust)

Stitch width 0 Stitch selector

Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric

and other fabrics that stretch° Sew as

you do with regular straight stitch

seaming. The seam may be pressed open

as with any regular seam, but will stretch

if necessary.

This is also a good stitch to use on curved

seams regardless of the type of fabric.

Any seam that will receive a great deal of

strain when worn should be sewn with

the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts

and slacks as well as adult sports clothes,

']:4LU!d i! }i;i)!;i

,_' _'4_ _4 ",W'W<':_,

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length

Any number

(not necessary

to adjust) Stitch width

2to5

Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch,

This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well.

OVERCAST _:_RETCH

STITCH ING

",{/xT/_,/ ,/ ,/

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

f- :

Stitch length

Any number

(not necessary

to adjust)

Stitch width 5

Presser foot

Stitch selector

This stitch can be used for sewing a seam

with an overcast finish. It is used for

seams of 3/8" to 1/4". The seam is

formed and finished in one operation. It

must be used when you are making

swimwear, ski pants and other garments

that require stretch.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just

short of the outside edge.

Raw or worn edges of older garments can

be overcast to prevent further raveling.

MO_.,,L_.t Lf,G S"i_is_FTC[-i

_I ". /\/ _,, iN /\ i+*u

/N I"., ix, /'-. i'..t,..,,1

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length

Any number

(not necessary Stitch width

to adjust) 3 to 5

I 'll.... Stitch selector

/vvk

With a narrow strip of fabric directly

under the line of gathering, stitch over

the gathers. The design will be a series of

small diamonds,

When smocking a garment, the stitch-

ing should be done before the piece is

sewn into the garment.

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presserfoot

Stitch length

Any number

(not necessary

to adjust) Stitch width

3to5 S_titch selector

,-,,., -"

I! : Aru'k

The serging or pine leaf stitch is similar to

one used by garment industry in making

sportswear. It is particularly useful when

sewing swimwear, ski and other sports

garments,

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length

Any number

(not necessary

to adjust)

Stitch width

3 to 5 Stitch selector

Use this versatile stitch to insert elastic in

garments. Simply stitch elastic into

place, making sure it is evenly spaced_

To do this, mark the correct length piece

into quarters, then match these markings

with center front and side seams.

.I I ¸

STRE _C.s PATCHING

_.j_,/-. j x,_/-, j

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length

Any number

(not necessary

to adiust)

_"a :

Stitch width

5 Stitch selector

LL_ :L: }

]

;v...ni

_vw_

If the kids keep "busting out" elbows or

kness ...... if someone burns or hole in

expensive knits ....... this recipe will

save you big money ! It can be decora _

tire, too .... When you want patches to

show !

_=E F_¸i?__i -_ ....... _"_¸_ r-_"_ _

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4

Stitch length

Any number

{not necessary

to adjust}

Presserfoot

Stitch width

5Stitch selector

Use as hemming stitch for blankets, table*

cloth and draperies.

Place the fabric right side up, and sew

3/8" from the edge.

Trim close to stitching. The stitch will

prevent raveling.

GEOMETRIC DECOR,_,TfVE STI'FCHIF,!G

Top thread tension

ontrot 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch length

Blue Zone _Stitch width

3to5

These stitches are purely decorative,

You can sew one row or several or vary

the stitch width and length for special

effects, You may want to combine

these stitches with other decorative

stitches° Experiment on a scrap of fabric

to see what special effects are possible,,

• i- i _':

_.- iL _ . . , _

'Li

This sewing machine can be used Iike a

flat bed machine, but easily converts to

free arm machine by removing the

extension table,

The free arm enables you to sew tubular

types of pieces more easily, ,lust slip the

sleeve or pants leg on the free arm as

shown above.

You wilt find many uses for this free arm

feature such as:

1. Mend elbows and knees of garments

more easily.

2,, Sew in sleeves more easily, This is

especially true when sewing smaller

garments.,

3, Applique, embroider or hem around

edges of cuffs or pants legs,,

4. Sewing in elastic casings in skirts or

pants at the waistline.

Checking Pe i -o mance Probbms WHATTOO0

i/:4/ ,; :!

Puckerin

ty wound bobbin

Nicks or burr_ at hole of needle

plate.

Pul ngfabric.

Incorrect size needle. •

Incorrect setting of needle.

Loose presser foot.

Upper and lower threads not drawn

back under presser foot before

starting seam.

Incorrect thread tension(s).

Light pressure on presser foot.

Using two differe nt sizes or kinds

of th read.

Bent or blunt needle.

Loose presser foot.

Fabric too sheer or too soft.

CORRECTION

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Rethread machine.

Tighten upper thread tension.

Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Increase pressure on presser foot.

Reset presser foot.

Rewind bobbin.

Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.

Do not pull fabriC; guide it gently.

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Reset needle.

Reset presser foot.

When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and

back of Dresser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches

are formed.

Reset thread tensions(s}.

increase pressure on presser foot.

Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size

and kind.

Insert new needle.

Reset presser foot•

Use underlay of tfssue paper.

;>i

PROBABLE CAUSE :

: n;orrect sizeneedle.

Bent or blunt needIei

of needlei

ight upper,thread tension: i _ :

_t pressure on presser foot,

: : s_a_ting to stitch toofast,

Improper threading: : ::

-Tight upper thread tension;;' : ....

: :: :lnc0rrect size needle:

:sharp eyein needle;

Nicks or burrs at:hole of needle

CORRECTION :

: Choose correct size needle for thread and fabriC.

Insert new needle.

: :Reset needle, i i

Loosen upper thread tension. :

Increase pressure on presser foOt. :

; Start tostitch at a medium speed. ; i: i

Rethread machine.

Loosen upper thread tension. :

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.

Insert new needle,

: Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs comp etely,

! : .v : :

:Improper bobbin

: Lint in bobbin or shuttle;::

plate in place_ :

Light pressure On presser footi

:::i'Thread knotted under fabric_: :

:::: Push-puli

-Thread ca0ght in Shuttlel

Check bobbin threading.

Clean bobbin and shuttle.

Remove darning plate.

Increase pressure on presser foot.

Place both threads back under presser foot before

beginning to stitch.

Push in the clutch.

Disassemble and clean shuttle.

; i

: k

i :¸!i

i:ii

i_ ,i

i t

::i!

•i

,:'i,,!i!il

CARUBIG FOR 'T "

CLEANING FEED DOGS AND Sk!UTTLE

To insure the best possible operation of

your machine, it is necessary to keep the

essential parts clean at all times° Using a

small brush, remove the lint that accumu-

lates in the shuttle area and around the

feed dogs.

dZ)

!. Remove bobbin cover plate by sliding

toward you. Using a screw driver,

remove needle plate cover. (Fig. 1)

2. Remove the shuttle by lifting up and

ouL

3. Using a small brush, remove the lint

that accumulates in and around the

feed dogs and shuttle area. And put a

drop of oil to the point indicated by

arrow.

4. Insert the shuttle into the shuttle race

making sure to line up red arrows as

illustrated in Fig, 4. The bobbin

should be fully seated.

5. Replace needle plate.

NOTE:

A small brush is provided in the accessory

box.

, _ , _', E R i-!:.._-'_,i In

Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head. To remove cover

plate, loosen up two top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.

OEL_NG UNDERSIDE

Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers by loosening two screws (A} and {B) as

shown below, Then place one or two drops of Kenmore sewing machine oil at each point.

IFI"®_ ..... _

_ _:::iii¸}¸¸::7¸:/II:::I_(II/:'i

Open face cover plate and oil points in illustration,

PARTS LIST

12 3 4 5 6

7 8 9 10 1 1 12

13 14

20 21

<:::S-.

t*""

15 16 17

kll parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service centen

VHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFOR-

/IATION:

t. PART NUMBER 2,. PART DESCRIPTION

3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM

f the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted

o a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.

Refo No.

Part No.

*6862

t939

8286

2273

102403202

813404013

6551

6552

6553

6554

650511002

648801005

650802003

40390

650801002

593401008

*6757

*6864

6797

65O166008

6830

41670

41669

*6889

802424004

*6530

650803004

"6811

Description

Bobbin box with 10 bobbins

Bobbin winder rubber ring

Thread spool pin

Nylon disc

Spool pin felt

Noo 11 Stretch fabric needles(BLU1

No. 1 t Single needles (ORG)

Nor 14 Single needles (RED)

No. 16 Single needles (PUR)

No. 18 Single needles (GRN)

Needle clamp with screw

Buttonhole guide foot

Straight stitch foot

Standard zigzag foot

Satin stitch foot

Zipper foot

Needle threader

Light bulb

Motor belt

Buttonhole opener

Large screw driver

Small screw driver

Oil and lint brush

Lint brush

Flower stitch attachment

Darning plate

Foot control (Not illustrated)

* These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per

instructions above.

5oz

_m m

_ N N

0 0

Z Z Z

mra

.< _< -€

_ r_ m

.ii

i<_t_ Ill

12 2 Z Z_

i=_ _

;_0_ ro

°_=_

N _n

,.'<_

-..t

or-

)>o

--t

SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE

t. You'll find spool pins, nylon discs and

spool pm fails m t_a accessory box,

Using a screw driver, attach spool pros

securely on the top cover and position

nylon discs and fehs over the spool

pins as indicated.

2. Plug toot control mto machine

receptacle. Then connect cord into

any t t0 _ t20 volt A,C. waif outlet.

3, Your Kenmorc sewing machine has

been thoroughly oiled at the factory.

Be sure to w_pa offthe needle plate

area, bed pinta and shuttle carefully

before sewing a garment, It _sw_se 1o

practice on a scrap of fabric so any

surplusoi| _sabsorbed.

STITCH SELECTOR

There are certain types of stitches that

are used more often than others _n your

garment construction. Because of the_r

frequent use, you wilt soon realise the

convenience offered to you by this

control.

The des+red stitchwill be obtmned by

turning the Stltch Se{actor Dial until the

stitch is indicated by the red line on the

indicator panel

/ M I1\

CARE FREE STITCHING

depends on the BIG

NEEDLES and the LITTLE <'_- i"

q, ) FEEDING

SHUTTLE SLUGGISHNESS

THREADING _:" ) TENSION

NEEDLE

Make certain your _eedte

_s correcth] inserted with

flat side away from you.

Be sure needle is not bfunt

or bent.

¢_'-I ]

Fl_t

si4_

av_ay

THREADING

,=,,,_ SHUTTLE ,i

_:_,__:,qi 1 aean andaroundtheshuttleandfaed l:i

\ _'<;i dogs to remove aceumufeted dust and lint I(',

which may cause NOISE OR JAMMING.

' ::4

:L and bottom threads,

TOP THREADING

Make sure there is no slack or

snags m the thread. Use the

type o| thread and size needle

recommended in your mstrue-

tmn book.

THREAD CAN TANGLE AND SNAP without being seen. If your

thread breaks, unthmed end then RETHREAD the machine, both top

BOTTOM THREADING

t. Insert bobbin mid shuttle making sure bobbin

rotates counter clockwise,

2, Pull thread through slot (A) and then to the left.

Pull thread through notch (B) and leave thread

about 4inches long.

COMPLETING THREADING

Hold top thread loosely m left hand and rotate

handwheel toward you one complete turn, Next,

pull top and bottom threads under and to the back

of presser toot.

FEEDING

{MATERIAL DOESN'T

FEED PROPERLY)

Check p_essor

Ch_ck

p_sh.pua

|eng_h.

SLUGGISHNESS

The more you use your mechlne, the tess

o|ten it needs oil if you have not used

your machine tora few months, and it

seems sluggish, oil your machine+

Periodically oil at points indicated in

your instruction book. USE ONLY

KENMORE SEWING MACHINE OIL.

...... 1

.:_,;_ TENSION

:_.' i Compere your straight stitching with the illustrations. If it looks like either

of the top two, correct the thread tension dla{as shown,

BE SURE TO NOTE YOUR PRESENT SETTING BEFORE YOU START

DL_C_'_a_ tetl_lOF_

Ltppt_r th}'_ad Ioo ngh_

':: Increase ten_ion

,h ,_o,oos. 1:

[ i Correct Slllghing

i:il

IMPORTANT

For your salary an important new feature has been incorporated in this machine,

The light/power switch provides electrm current for the motor as well as the light,

In order to operate the machine this swatch must be on.

if you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just

turn off the light/power switch and the machine can not be started accidentally by

pressing on the toot control, This feature also applies when the machine =s in

storage.

The foot control is used to vary the machine speed from zero to high.

Sea Canada Inc.

Dear Homemaker:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine

Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a

moment and carefully read this booklet which contains

instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension

adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain

the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense

for conditions beyond our control

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always

available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember,

if you have questions about your machine, always mention the

model number and serial number when you nquire

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model

number and serial number of this appliance.

The model number and serial number are

located on the nomenclature plate, as identified

on Page 2 of this booklet.

Model No.385. Serial No.__

Retain these numbers for future reference.

FULL

HEAD

WARRANTY

25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE

._-=

For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of

charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which

appear in the sewing machine head.

FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIP-

MENT OF SEWING MACHINE

For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of

charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which

appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine,

including motor, wiring, switch and speed control.

FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND

MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS

For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of

charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service

necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except

for normal maintenance.

To obtain warranty service described above, SIMPLY CONTACT

THE NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN

CANADA.. This warranty applies only while this product is in

use in CANADA.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also

have other rights which vary from state to state.

.=-

__z-

SEARS CANADA INC°, TORONTO, ONT MSB 2B8

SEWING MACHINE

Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine,

should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply

contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears Stores.

Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.

The model number of your Sewing Machine wilt be shown on

your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine.

See page 2 for Iocation_

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE

FOLLOWING IN FORMATION:

* MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION

tf the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will

be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribu-

tion Center for handling°

SEARS CANADA INC., TORONTO, ONT M5B 2B8

S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part No. 651800015

Kenmore 3851788180 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0803272

KENMORE Electronic Sewing Manual L0803272 KENMORE Electronic Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Electronic Sewing installation guides

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