Kenmore 3851788180 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0803272

KENMORE Electronic Sewing Manual L0803272 KENMORE Electronic Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Electronic Sewing installation guides

User Manual: Kenmore 3851788180 3851788180 KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides View the owners manual for your KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #3851788180. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore KENMORE SEWING MACHINE Manual

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Kenmope
SEWING

MACHINE

OWNER'S

MAN1

17881

KNOWING
YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Machine identification
......................
Accessories ..............................
Setting spool pins ...........................
Converting to free-arm sewing ...............
Pressure regulator, Presser foot lever ...........
Presser feet, Speed control plug ................
Light and power switch, Sewing light ............
Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate .......
Needle, thread and fabric chart ................
Needles, Placement of needle .................
Winding the bobbin ......................
Threading the bobbin thread ..................
Threading top thread ........................
Picking up bobbin thread ....................
Adjusting top thread tensions ................
STARTING

2 _3
4
5
5
6
7
8
9
t0
11
12
13
14
15
16

TO SEW .......................

SIMPLE SEWING
Straight stitching
.....................
Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner
Zigzag stitching
.........................
Checking tensions, Overcasting, Interfacing

18 _" 19
20 *" 21
darts

UTI LITY AND STRETCH STITCH SEWING
Buttonhole
making .....................
22
Blind hemming .........................
Shell stitching
..........................
Box stitching
..................................
Fagoting, Two-point
shell stitching
.........
27
Satin stitching, Appliqueing
................
29
Zipper application
.....................
31
Mending, Darning .....................
33
Button sewing, Bar tacking ...............
35
Stretch stitching ......................
37
Adjusting stretch stitch balance,
Straight stretch, Rick-rack stretch,
Overcast stretch, Smocking stretch, Serging or
pine leaf stretch, Elastic stretch, Stretch
patching, Herring bone stretch
Geometric decorative stitching
..............
Free-arm sewing .........................
CHECKING

PERFORMANCE

PROBLEMS

....

CARING FOR THE MACHINE
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle
..............
Oiling under arm cover plate ................
Oiling underside ........................
Oiling in face cover plate ..................
Parts list ...........................
USING

PORTABLE

CASE OR CABINET

_ 23
24
25
26
"_ 28
_ 30
_" 32
"_ 34
_ 36
_ 45

46
47

48 _49
50
51
52
53
54 _ 55

.......

Bobbin Winder

Face Cover Plate

Threading

Chart

/
Ex tension

Table/,

Thread Guide

Presser

Foot

Thumb
Needle

Thread Guide
Needle
Clamp Screw

Screw
Plate

Bobbin
Plate
Thread

Hand

Spool

Pins

Wheel

Presser Foot Lever

Stretch

Light

Push-Pull

Clutch

Stitch

Adjuster

and Power

Electric

Cord

Free Arm

Switch
Receptacle

Nomenclature

Plate

Cover

2. StitchWidthControt

[IN

/
"_5.

3÷

Stitch

Length

Stitch

Seiector

Reverse

Stitch

Controt

Lever

This control
regulates the length of the
stitch you select.
_
i
The diaf is calibrated in stitches per inch.
The higher the number,
the shorter
the
stitch.
Fabric will not be fed when the dial is set at
"0

't"

The desired stitch
will
be obtained
by
turning
this Stitch Selector until the stitch
is indicated by the red line on the indicator
panel.
Note:

To select a stitch, be sure needle :is
out of fabric at its highest position.

When reverse stitching iS needed,
hold there during sewing.

push down the

lever and

ACCESSORI

Accessory

Buttonhole

box

opener

Bobbin

Small

screw

driver

Large

screw

driver
Spool

Spool pin fett
Lint

brush

Spool

pin disc
Straight

Darning

plate

Zipper
Buttonhole

Foot

control

stitch

guide

foot

Owner's manual

foot

SETTING

SI:'OO L P'!NS

Spool Pins are packed in accessory box,
Screw thread
Position

spool pins in place securely

with a screw driver.

spool pin discs and felts as shown in illustration.

/
(

t4
11

_ _. spoolpin,_i_o
II'" s_'°O'
_'°
"

Slot

CONVERTING

TO FREE-ARM

To utilize free-arm
the machine.
To return to flat-bed
slot of the machine.

feature
sewing,

for

SEWING

sewing tubular

reposition

material,

the extension

remove

the extension

table inserting

table from

tabs of the base into

? _-_ES SU R E R I:._aU L s "i-} i_
y_
/

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator..
presser foot.. (See above)

This will

To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until suitable

release the pressure on the

pressure is obtained..

Insufficient
pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty
in
guiding the fabric_
If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the
pressure.
When sewing multiple
thickness or heavy fabric,
when sewing lighter weight fabrics,.

reduce

PRESSER

the pressure.. Increase pressure

FOOT

LEVER

To aid you in the placement
of heavy
fabrics under the presser foot, the lever
can raise foot beyond the normal "up"
position,
This is also an aid in changing
your presser feet,,

PRESSER

FEET

To change the various presser feet, raise
the presser bar to its highest position by
lifting the presser foot levero Loosen the
presser foot
thumb
screw, choose the
proper
foot,
insert from
the bottom.
Tighten
the screw using the large screw
driver to make certain the foot is secure.

SPEED
Insert
three
left,
t 10 ""

CONTROL

PLUG

the foot control
plug onto the
prong connector
as shown at the
Connect the cord plug into any
120 volt AC wall outlet.

LIGHT

:-,
^.r'_D_POWER

Turn
on power
power switch,
Important

SWI _CH

pushing

light

and

safety feature

Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power
switch is turned on,, Turning
on the power automatically
illuminates
the whole stitching area. If you're interrupted or stop sewing, turn off light/
power switch.

SEWING

L_GHT

The sewing light is located in the face
cover as shown.
To replace the bulb,
turn the light off and open the face
cover.
Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb
counter-clockwise
and remove it
from the socket.
Push a new bulb

in and turn it clockwise.

NOTE :
First, unplug
the machine
prior to removing and replacing the bulb, Be aware
that the light bulb may be warm.

FOOT
(:!i

_ Y

L_C4

P_j L

i i _:

Step on this control to start to sew, The
harder
you press on the contro!,
the
faster the machine will sew. Slow down
by reducing
pressure on the control°
You may want to practice your speed at
different
levels when you first use the
machine°

SEAM

GUIDES

Seam guides are printed on either side of
the needle plate to aid you in guiding
your fabric, THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ALONG THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE
NEEDLE
PLATE
IS THE "ALL
IMPORTANT"
5/8" SEAM LINEo

The cornering guides are convenient when
turning
a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge. See next section of this book
for directions.

!71

cornering Guide

DARNING
_"
•

i _
:

_7
:i I

PLATE

•

There are a few times when you want to
control the feeding of the fabric yourself,
Raise needle to its highest position and
raise presser foot,,
Place darning plate
over needle plate aligning two pins of
darning plate with holes of needle plate.
You may then determine
the movement
of the fabric yourself.
See page 35 for
button sewing application,

NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR

11-ORANGE

14-RED

THREAD

Polyester
Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized
Cotton
Silk A

50 Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester
Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A

50 Mercerized

14-RED
or
16-PURPLE

SIZE

Duty

Polyester
Wrap
Silk A

16-PURPLE

Buttonhole

Twist

18-GREEN

(Use as top

thread

Polyester

10 to 12 stitches
per inch

8 to t0 stitches
per inch

8 stitches

CoretCotton

per inch

6 stitches
only)

Core/Cotton

Wrap
50 Mercerized

per inch

Mercerized

18-GREEN

1 !-STR ETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE;::BLUE
i

12 stitches

Cotton

Mercerized
Heavy-Duty
Polyester
CoreiCotton
Wrap
Sitk A
Heavy
Cotton

RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING

Cotton

per inch

10 to 12 stitches
per inch

Use KENMORE
needles. The size of the
needle should conform
with the size of
the thread and both should
suit the
fabric.
Kenmore needles are color-coded
by size for your convenience
(See chart
on facing page)°
Never use a bent needle or one with a dull
point.
The exact length of your needle is shown
at left.
Be sure you never use one m
your
machine
that
is not this exact
length.

PLACEI_,_EHT

OF NEEDLE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by
turning
the hand wheel toward
you,
Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding
the needle with the flat side away from
you, slip the needle into the needle bar.
When it is in as far as it will go, tighten
the needle clamp screw with small screw_
driver provided in the accessory box,

Flat
side
away
from
you

Needte clamp

1. Pull
Push-pull
Clutch
away
machine to disengage clutch,
2. Draw
bobbin

thread
winder

from
tension

3, Pull end of thread
bobbin as shown,

from

spool
through
disc as shown,
through

hole

4, Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft
with end of thread coming from the
top of the bobbin.
Push bobbin

winder shaft to the right until it clicks,
Holding
onto
end of thread,
start
machine.
When bobbin
is slightly
filled, snip off end of thread.
5, Wind
thread
until
winder
Remove bobbin. Clip thread.
6. Push in
clutch.

Push-pul!

Clutch

stops,

to" engage

Bobbin cover
p ate

1_ Remove the bobbin
cover plate by
pulling it toward you while pushing it
down stightlv.

4_ Pull 4-inches of thread through
slot of bobbin case and toward
machine as shown,,

2. Take the bobbin out and wind it,
(See page 12 for winding the bobbin.)

5o Close the bobbin cover plate allowing
thread
to emerge through
slot in
needle plate°

3o Insert bobbin into shuttle making sure
bobbin rotates counter clockwise°

tension
back of

The numberedstepsbelowfollow the numbersonthe illustrations.
Dotted lines show placeswhere the thread loops and then is
3ulledtight,

4, Draw
lever,

thread

& through

5, Draw

thread

down

and

take-up

into

thread

guide.

1. Drawthreadthrough threadguide.
2. Draw thread into threading channel
toward you.
3, Drawthreaddown channelandaround
the springwireasshown.
14

6. Thread then is slipped
thread guide.
7o Thread needle from

into

front

needle bar

to back.

PICkiNG

UP BOBBIB_

TI4READ

1, Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle
thread loosely in left hand and rotate
handwheel toward you one complete
turn°

2. Bring bobbin
upper thread.

thread

pulling

3. Pull both threads
under and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving 3 to
4 inches of thread clear.

If you cannot pick up bottom thread by
following
steps
given
above,
then
check:
t. Is needle
back?

threaded

2. Is thread tangled

from

around

front

needle?

3, ls there 3 to 4 inches of thread
from the shuttle?
4. Is thread from shuttle

coming

tangled?

ADJUSt _[_GTOP Lr_Rsr',m_.=_
TENSIONS
Probably the most important
control on
your machine is this one that regulates
your top thread tension.

An ideal straight
stitch
threads
locked
between
layers of fabric.

There are many reasons for having to
reset your tension.
The best tension for
one fabric may not be correct for another°
The required
tension depends upon the
stiffness
of the fabric, thickness of the
fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being
sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are
making,

Setting

mark

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap
of the fabric you are using before starting
to make a garment,,
Use the straight
stitch function
as shown at the right°

Upper

Decrease

thread

too

tight

Tension

\ _;¢:::_j_

U Dper thread

Tension
1ncrease

1oo loose

-_
\

will have
the two

Now that you are familiar
with the controls on your machine and with the accessories
provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing
machine.
Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
Test the needle.. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point° It should be
the correct size for the fabric and thread being used
Do not be afraid to change your
needle frequently°
Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic
blends tend to dull the
needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers,,
2o Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been
drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine° Hold on to threads during the sewing
of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam,
3o Test the machine
double thickness,
your fabric°

stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, The fabric should be
Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to

4, Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left
of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on
the needle plate when making a simple seam,
5, Run the machine at a slow even speed,
the faster the machine will sew,,
6, Fasten each seam by back tacking
7,, Always

The more pressure you put on the foot control,

at the beginning

and end of the seam.

finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point°

8_ Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle.
fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning

the hand wheel manually,

always turn it toward

Never pull or hold the

you°

STRiAtGFIT STITCHING

Stitch

length

Stitch width 0

6to 12

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control 3 to 6

J
i

: :Vml_
Presser foot

You will find in garment
and permanent.

construction

that you are doing

two types

of sewing-temporary

1. Temporary
stitching-Usually
the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer
of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are:
Basting
Stay stitching
Guide line marking
2. Permanent stitching.
This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together° Much
of this stitching
is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good
looking.
The best_[ength stitch to use for medium weight
in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.

fabrics

is 10-12 stitches

You must remember to lengthen the stitch
and thicker seams° Some of these seams are:
Common two layer seams
Curved two layer seams
Top stitched three layer seams
Top stitched four layer seams

heavier

fabrics,

for

When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable
carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area.

multiple

thickness,

per inch°

This is

layers of fabric

sew slowly

and

FASTENtNG A SEAM
Be sure

both

threads

are

drawn

back

under the presser foot.
Lower needle
into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning
of seam_ Press and hold reverse stitch
lever down and stitch in reverse until
needle
reaches
beginning
of
seam
Release the reverse lever and complete
seam° When you reach the end, press the
reverse lever down again and sew back
over 1/2 inch of completed seam

TURNING

A SQUARE

CORNER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle
tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the
cornering
guide as shown.
Raise the
presser foot, turn fabric.
New stitching
line will align with 5/8" seam guide on
side of needle plate.
Lower the presser
foot and begin stitching in new direction.

Z_GZAG STITCHING

/VVV',.i\
Stitch length
6 to 24

Stitch

t to 5

[
Top

thread

width

Stitch selector

....

tension

control 0 to 4

Presser foot

This type of stitching
greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature that
enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons.
Simply
use the settings
indicated in the illustration
for the simple zigzag. Follow directions given in the following
pages for more specific uses.

The easiest way to check tensions is to
sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric
you will be using.

UNDESIRABLE

DESIRABLE

iiiiiiii!!i i!!i!il

Use the appropriate
type of thread and
needle. Use different
colors of thread on
the bobbin and upper spool.
Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches.
The bobbin
thread should not show on
the top of the fabric.
Adjust the top tension if necessary to
achieve the stitch formation
mentioned
above.
This tension
control
is very sensitive.
You may want to reduce the tension
towards 0 when sewing wide stitches on
soft fabric_
This reduction
of tension
will tend to eliminate
puckering
of soft
fabrics,

TOP SIDE OF FABRIC

OV E RCAST[_t",_G
This is one of the more frequently
used
zigzag stitches in garment
construction.
You may want to overcast along the raw
edge of each seam allowance or fold the
raw edge toward the garment and stitch.

Fig

Fig, ! shows the raw edge finished.
Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched,

Fig 2

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just
short of the outside edge. Raw or worn
edges of older garments can be overcast
to prevent further raveling.

INTERFACING

DARTS

To reduce bulk of interfacing
darts, cut
interfacing
down
center
between
dart
lines.
Overlap cut edges, matching dart
lines,. Zigzag stitch along marking
line
from point to wide end of dart°
Trim
both raw edges close to stitching.

I !
V

:UTU L _T'_,/A?4D S _RETOH STfT_ooH SEWUH_s
BUTTONHOLE

MAI(_NG

Stitch iength
Blue Zone "t_

Stitch width
3 to 5

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
ontrol
0 to 4

i:i:_

!ii,
iI:_,

_i_ _ii=_i
_:i
_

Presser foot

_'_

:}<

_'_ _

_i_"

Carefully
mark the buttonhole
tength
on your garment.
Place the fabric
with the buttonhole
marked under the
buttonhole
foot.
Pull the guide foot
(A) all the way forward
so that the
index mark (B) is aligned with the
graduation
(C), with thread to rear°
(The markings on the left side of foot
will
help you
in making
all your
buttonholes
the same size,,
Graduations act as reference mark°)

2. Set stitch selector at r--_q. Stitch forward until
you approach
the bottom
marking
of
the
buttonhole,
Stop sewing at the right stitch and
raise the needle to its highest position
by turning
hand-wheel
toward
you
manually.

3. Set stitch selector at EC3]and bartack
5 or 6 stitches at the bottom mark of
the buttonhole.
Stop sewing at the
left stitcho Raise needle to its highest
position by turning handwheel toward
you.

4. Set stitch selector at I_and
sew the
other side of the buttonhole
until you
approach
the top
marking
of the
buttonhole.
Stop sewing at the left
stitch,
Raise the needle to its highest
position°

5° Set stitch selector at IZC331again and
bartack 5 or 6 stitches to finish the
buttonhole,

c=.r.m

Always make a practice buttonhole
with the button you will use,

on a scrap of fabric

you plan to use, Try the buttonhole

Always use an interfacing
in area of garment where buttonholes
are placed. Tissue paper
or regular interfacing can be used,, Tear paper away after stitching, if it is used.
For heavier weight fabrics,

loosen your top tension slightly.

BL_ND

H EMMI[_xtG
Stitch

Stitch width
2to3

length

8 to 24

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control 0 to 4

LA_A_

Presser foot

z'VV_

-=-=_-_

_er

....
Fig,

Foot

t, Finish edge of hem anyway you
desire.
Turn up hem appropriate
width_ (Fig° 1)

Fig 3
3. Place garment under presser foot in
such a way that narrow
zigzag
stitches will be sewn on extended
edge, The wide zigzag stitch should
just catch the fold of the garment,
(Fig° 3)
Right Side of
ished Hem

_dEdge
Fig 2
2, Fold garment
ing 1/8" of
(Fig. 2)
24

away from hem leavhem edge extending.

Fig, 4
4. Press both sides of the finished hem,
The right side of the garment will
show only the blind stitches. (Fig. 4)

SMELL

STITCHING

Stitch length
12 to 24

Stitch width
3 to 5

Stitch selector

Top thread tension
control 4 to 9

c o :/{

Presserfoot

This stitch used on the edge of nylon
tricot
makes an attractive
edge stitch
called Shell Stitching.
When sewing this stitch, allow needle to
just clear the right edge of the fabric
when it zigzags.
You
may need to tighten
top thread
tension slightly to obtain desired effect°

BOX STITCHING

Stitch length
12 to 24

Stitch
3to5

width
Stitch

Top thread tension
control 0 to 4

selector

:_ll_

¸ (

01
i.iv_

L ¸

This is a good stitch to use in attaching or
binding elastic fabrics and stretch
lace,
lingerie stretch knit.
The stitch is decorative

DECORATIVE

as well as useful.

EDGING

Turn the raw edge under 2" and press.
Place the fabric right side up with the
middle of the turnover
under the center
of the presser foot, so that the stitch sews
on to the fold and just over the raw edge
underneath.

1_-._

Stitch length
Blue Zone _

to 12

Stitch width
5

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control 0 to 4

Presser foot

This is a popular decorative stitch (used
in sleeves or fronts of blouses and dresses).
To attach two separate pieces of fabric
together,
leave a little space inbetween,
To prepare the fabric:

1
I

Fold under the seam allowances on the
cut edges, and press° Baste folded edges
to tissue paper with about 1/8" space
between,
Stitch over the 1/8" allowance,

!
1

just catching
with needle°

the fabric fold on both sides
Remove bastings and paper;

press,,

WO-PO
t_

NT SHELL

STfTCI4_NG

Stitch

length

_lue Zone _;:::_to

Stitch width
3to5

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control 0 to 4
[

Presser foot
_-

i¸_ i

This stitch can also be used as a single
overlock stitch as well.

SAT_N STFi-CHtNG
I,t AI,A
/ 114,1ii/
I
At,14/
Stitch

length

Blue Zone

1C_

Stitch width
2to5

Stitch selector

Top thread tension
control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches.
appliqueing,
buttonhole
making.

This is an attractive

stitch

used for

Whenever you are using this stitch, it is wetl to remember to loosen the tension of the top
thread slightly,
The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should beo
If you are stitching
on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or
interfacing for a well formed stitch.
Puckering of the material wilt be eliminated
and the
bobbin thread will not be visible on the top side of the fabric.
It is best to practice

a sample design on a fabric scrap before sewing design on garment.

APPL I:QUEII',IG

Stitch

length

Blue Zone 1C_

Stitch width
2 to5

Stitch

selector

Top thread
tension
control
0 to 4

Presser foot

Select an applique
design to be applied
to your garment and baste it in place°
Satin stitch around the raw edge of the
applique
completely
covering the edge.
You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color,

Z_PPER

APP L_CAT_ON

Stitch length
12

Stitch width

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control 3 to 6

Presser foot

REGU:LAR

ZIPPER

Pin or baste zipper to fabric and place the
work in position
under the presser foot,
Loosen the zipper foot adjusting
screw
to set the foot on the left side of the

V
(right)

:::
: :

:
:

needle, and sew the left side zipper as
shown°
(Fig. 1)
To sew the rightside
zipper,
loosen the screw and bring the
foot to the right side of the needle.

/:m:

INVISIBLE

ZIPPER

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing
through the center hole of the foot and
one groove of the foot is riding on the
teeth of the zipper.
See Fig. 2o Follow
the zipper manufacturer's
instructions.
After
zipper has been inserted,
finish
sewing seam by shifting
foot
to side
position sewing through side notch

CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording
for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a
strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in
Fig. 3.

Fig. 3

NOTE :
Use "Low
Bar Sewing
Machine
ZIP _
PER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible
zipper"
and "cording",
which can be obtained at
any stores of Sears Roebuck and Co.

I /\ \
V

/A\
_7

l/_\
V

Stitch

length

Blue Zone

Stitch

width

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4
r

: 1 1

>_,J_£

i I, _

:iii:_i/i

Presser foot

!/VV_

To repair
a straight
or three-cornered
tear, position
the tear under the needle
in such a way that the stitching catches
both sides of the tear, When mending a
three-cornered
tear,
stitch
from
each
end to the center.
It is well to use a
piece of fabric
forcement,

under

the

tear for

rein-

DARNING

Stitch length
8 to 10

Stitch width 0

Stitch

selector

Top thread
tension
control
3 to 6

1
_

Presser foot

Use Darning

plate (See page 9)

Push down the outer ring of the pressure
regulator
to release the pressure on the
presser foot, (See page 6)
Stretch fabric between embroidery
hoops
with hole centered.
Lower presser bar
and sew at a slow speed moving fabric
back and forth
with a steady rhythm to
cover darning area, When it is covered,
turn fabric 1/4 a turn and sew layer of
stitching
across first layer.
If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole
area, you may want to put a separate
piece under the hole for reinforcement.
Be sure to return pressure on presser foot
to original
adjustment
after
darning°
(See page 6)

BUTTON

oEv,JING
Stitch tength
Any number
(not necessary
to adjust)

Stitch
....

Top

thread

width

Must be adjusted

Stitch

selector

tension

control 0 to 4

:_,.

[

:..v:..'.

Presser foot

Use Darning

plate (See page 9)

Align two holes of button with slot of
presser foot and lower foot to hold
the button securely,

2. Turn
hand
wheel
manually
needle point is just above button,

until

3. Adjust stitch width control so needle
will enter left hole of the button.
4, Turn hand wheel again by hand so
needle enters second hole.
Readjust
stitch width
if necessary,
Stitch a
number of times.
5_

Finish sewing with an extra two inches
of thread
remaining.
Draw these
threads to reverse side of garment and
tie_

BAR T_CKING

Stitch length
Blue Zone _

Stitch width
1 to 5

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control 0 to 4

Presser

foot

This stitch is similar to a very short satin
stitch and is used to reinforce
points of
strain
such as corners of pockets and
straps on lingerie,

}

)

Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

?
)

.........
J

The stitches
stitches built

shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics,
in to the machine for your quick selection.

\t\

/\/

_:%
/,_/

/\/

\
\\

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.

These are special

Straight Stretch
Rickrack Stretch
Overcast Stretch
Smocking Stretch
Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch
Elastic Stretch
Stretch Patching
Herring Bone Stretch

® ® ®®

@®®®

ADJ'USTtP:dG

STRETCH

In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch
adjuster
should usually be in a neutral
position
(between "+" and "-",
or 1_
position).
When sewing some fabrics, you
may
need to adjust
this
control
to
balance the stitches for appearance sake.
If design seems open tike the illustrations
to the left, adjust the control
slightly
toward
"-'"
until design looks like the
center design.
n

Smocking

If the design appears to be closed as in
the right
hand illustrations,
turn the
control
toward
"+" until stitching
is as
you desire.

stretch

Ricl

STRAIGHT 8TR ETCH
....

"In
Stitch length
Any number
(not necessary

to adjust)

Stitch

width

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control 3 to 6

Presser foot

Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric
and
other fabrics that stretch°
Sew as
you
do
with
regular
straight
stitch
seaming. The seam may be pressed open
as with any regular seam, but will stretch
if necessary.
This is also a good stitch to use on curved
seams regardless of the type of fabric.
Any seam that will receive a great deal of
strain when worn should be sewn with
the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts
and slacks as well as adult sports clothes,

']:4LU!d

i! }i;i
)!;i

,_' _'4_ _4 ",W'W <':_,

Stitch
length
Any
number
(not necessary

to adjust)

Top

thread

Stitch width
2to5

tension

control 0 to 4

J
Presser foot

Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch,
This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well.

OVERCAST _:_RETCH
STITCH ING

",{/xT/_,/

Top

thread

Stitch
length
Any number
(not necessary
to adjust)

,/ ,/

Stitch

width

Stitch

selector

tension

control 0 to 4
f-

Presser foot

This stitch can be used for sewing a seam
with an overcast finish.
It is used for
seams of 3/8" to 1/4".
The seam is
formed and finished in one operation.
It
must be used when you are making
swimwear, ski pants and other garments
that require stretch.
Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just
short of the outside edge.
Raw or worn edges of older garments can
be overcast to prevent further raveling.

MO_.,,L_.t Lf,G S"i_is_FTC[-i

_I
/N

". / \/
I "., ix,

_,, iN
/\
/'-.
i'..t,..,,1

i+*u

Top thread tension
control 0 to 4

Presser foot

Stitch
length
Any number
(not necessary

Stitch

to adjust)

3 to 5

width
Stitch

selector

I 'll....
/vvk

With a narrow strip of fabric
directly
under the line of gathering,
stitch over
the gathers. The design will be a series of
small diamonds,
When smocking
a garment,
the stitching should be done before the piece is
sewn into the garment.

Stitch length
Any number
(not necessary
to adjust)

Stitch width
3to5

S_titch

selector

,-,,., -"
i

Top

thread

tension

control 0 to 4

I! : Aru'k

Presserfoot

The serging or pine leaf stitch is similar to
one used by garment industry in making
sportswear.
It is particularly
useful when
sewing swimwear,
ski and other sports
garments,

Stitch
length
Any
number
(not necessary
to adjust)

Stitch width
3 to 5

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

Presser foot

Use this versatile stitch to insert elastic in
garments.
Simply
stitch
elastic into
place, making sure it is evenly spaced_
To do this, mark the correct length piece
into quarters, then match these markings
with center front and side seams.

STRE

_.j_,/-.

_C.s PATCHING
.I

I¸

x,_/-, j

Stitch
length
Any number
(not necessary
to adiust)

_"a

Stitch width
5

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4

LL_

:L: }

]

Presser foot

;v...ni
_vw_

If the kids keep "busting out" elbows or
kness ......
if someone burns or hole in
expensive knits .......
this recipe will
save you big money ! It can be decora _
tire, too ....
When you want patches to
show !

_=
E F_¸i?__i -_ .......

_"_¸_ r-_" _ _
Stitch length
Any number
{not

necessary

to adjust}

Stitch width
5

Stitch

selector

Top thread tension
control
0 to 4
:

Presserfoot

Use as hemming stitch for blankets,
cloth and draperies.

table*

Place the fabric right side up, and sew
3/8" from the edge.
Trim close to stitching.
The stitch will
prevent raveling.

GEOMETRIC

DECOR,_,TfVE

Stitch

STI'FCHIF,!G

length

Blue Zone _

Top

thread

Stitch width
3to5

tension

ontrot 0 to 4

Presser foot

These
stitches
are purely
decorative,
You can sew one row or several or vary
the stitch width
and length for special
effects,
You may want to combine
these
stitches
with
other
decorative
stitches°
Experiment
on a scrap of fabric
to see what special effects are possible,,

_.-

•

iL _

i _':_

/
/

This sewing machine can be used Iike a
flat bed machine, but easily converts to
free
arm
machine
by removing
the
extension table,
The free arm enables you to sew tubular
types of pieces more easily, ,lust slip the
sleeve or pants leg on the free arm as
shown above.

'Li

You wilt find many uses for this free arm
feature such as:
!

1. Mend elbows
more easily.

and knees of garments

2,, Sew in sleeves more easily,
especially
true when sewing
garments.,

This is
smaller

3, Applique,
embroider
or hem
edges of cuffs or pants legs,,

around

4. Sewing in elastic casings
pants at the waistline.

in skirts

4_
GO

Checking Pe i -o mance Probbms WHATTO O0
CORRECTION
Choose correct
size needle for thread
Rethread
machine.
Tighten
upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric;
guide it gently.

Nicks
plate.

ty wound
bobbin
or burr_ at hole of needle

Pul ngfabric.
Incorrect
size needle.

i/:4/

Puckerin

Increase pressure
on presser
Reset presser foot.
Rewind
bobbin.
Replace

needle

plate,

and fabric.

foot.

or polish

off

burrs

completely.

Incorrect
setting
of needle.
Loose presser foot.

Do not pull fabriC; guide it gently.
Choose correct
size needle for thread
Reset needle.
Reset presser foot.

Upper and lower threads
not drawn
back under presser foot before
starting
seam.

When starting
a seam be sure to draw both threads
back of Dresser foot about 4" and hold until a few
are formed.

Incorrect
thread
tension(s).
Light pressure
on presser foot.
Using two differe
nt sizes or kinds
of th read.
Bent or blunt needle.

Reset thread tensions(s}.
increase pressure
on presser foot.
Upper thread and bobbin
thread should
and kind.
Insert new needle.

Loose
Fabric

Reset presser
Use underlay

presser foot.
too sheer or too

•

soft.

foot•
of tfssue

paper.

and fabric.

under and
stitches

be same size

;>i

1
PROBABLE

CAUSE

CORRECTION

: n;orrect sizeneedle.
Bent

or blunt

needIei
of needlei
ight upper,thread
tension:
i _
_t pressure on presser foot,

: s_a_ting to stitch toofast,
Improper
threading:
:
-Tight
upper thread tension;;'
: :: :lnc0rrect
size needle:

:
:

:sharp
Nicks

eyein
needle;
or burrs at:hole

;
::
....

of needle

for thread
i

needle

plate,

or polish

; i
: [
: k

off

:
:

Start tostitch
at a medium
speed.
Rethread
machine.
Loosen upper thread tension.
:
Choose correct
size needle for thread
Insert new needle,
Replace

and fabriC.
i

Loosen
upper thread tension.
Increase pressure
on presser foOt.

Choose
correct
size needle
Insert new needle.
:Reset
needle,

;

and

burrs

i :¸!i

fabric.
comp

etely,

i:ii
i_ ,i

:Improper
bobbin
:
Lint in bobbin
or shuttle;::

Light
:::i'Thread

plate in place_
:
pressure On presser footi
knotted
under fabric_:

Check bobbin
Clean bobbin

threading.
and shuttle.

Remove
darning
plate.
Increase pressure
on presser foot.
Place both threads
back under presser
beginning
to stitch.
Push in the clutch.

:::: Push-puli

foot

before
i

::i!

-Thread

ca0ght

in Shuttlel

Disassemble

and clean

shuttle.

•

,:'i,,!i!
CO

CARUBIG
CLEANING

FOR 'T
FEED

DOGS AND

Sk!UTTLE
To insure the best
your machine, it is
essential parts clean
small brush, remove
lates in the shuttle

possible operation of
necessary to keep the
at all times° Using a
the lint that accumuarea and around the

feed dogs.
!.

Remove bobbin cover plate by sliding
toward
you.
Using a screw driver,
remove needle plate cover. (Fig. 1)

2. Remove
ouL

the shuttle

by lifting

up and

3. Using a small brush, remove the lint
that accumulates
in and around the
feed dogs and shuttle area. And put a
drop of oil to the point indicated by
arrow.

4. Insert
dZ)

the shuttle

into the shuttle

making sure to line up red arrows as
illustrated
in Fig, 4.
The bobbin
should be fully seated.

5. Replace needle plate.

NOTE:
A small brush is provided
box.
50

race

in the accessory

_ , _', E R i-!:.._-'_,
i In

Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head. To remove cover
plate, loosen up two top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.

OEL_NG

UNDERSIDE

Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers by loosening two screws (A} and {B) as
shown below, Then place one or two drops of Kenmore sewing machine oil at each point.

IFI"®_ ..... _
_ _:::iii̧}¸¸:
:7̧:/II:::I_(II
/:'i

Open face cover plate and oil points in illustration,

PARTS LIST
1

d
13

<:::S-.

'0
t *""

kll parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service centen
VHEN ORDERING
/IATION:

REPAIR

PARTS,

t. PART NUMBER
3. MODEL NUMBER

ALWAYS

GIVE

THE

FOLLOWING

2,. PART DESCRIPTION
4. NAME OF ITEM

f the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
o a Sears Repair Parts Distribution
Center for expedited handling.
Refo No.

Part No.
*6862

Bobbin

box with

t939

Bobbin

winder

8286

Thread spool pin

2273

Nylon disc

102403202

813404013

transmitted

Description

INFOR-

10 bobbins

rubber

Spool pin felt
Noo 11 Stretch

fabric

ring

needles(BLU1

6551

No. 1 t Single needles (ORG)

6552

Nor 14 Single needles (RED)

6553

No. 16 Single needles (PUR)

6554

No. 18 Single needles (GRN)

650511002

Needle clamp with screw

648801005

Buttonhole

650802003

Straight

40390

guide foot

stitch foot

Standard

zigzag foot

650801002

Satin stitch foot

593401008

Zipper

*6757

*6864

6797

65O166008

foot

Zipper foot
Needle threader
Light

bulb

Motor

belt

6830

41670

Large screw driver

41669

Small screw driver

*6889

Oil and lint brush

Lint brush

802424004
*6530

650803004

Darning

24
* These items are not furnished
instructions
above.

"6811
with the machine,

Buttonhole

Flower

opener

stitch attachment
plate

Foot control

(Not illustrated)

but may be ordered per

SETTING

2. Plug toot control
mto
machine
receptacle.
Then connect cord into
any t t0 _ t20 volt A,C. waif outlet.

5oz

3, Your
Kenmorc sewing machine has
been thoroughly oiled at the factory.
Be sure to w_pa offthe needle plate
area, bed pinta and shuttle carefully
before sewing a garment,
It _s w_se 1o
practice on a scrap of fabric so any
surplusoi| _sabsorbed.

-..t

o
r_

°_=_

or-

.ii

SELECTOR

There are certain types of stitches that
are used more often than others _n your
garment construction.
Because of the_r
frequent
use, you wilt soon realise the
convenience offered
to you by this
control.
The des+red stitchwill be obtmned by
turning the Stltch Se{actor Dial until the
stitch is indicated by the red line on the
indicator panel

M I1\

CARE

FREE

STITCHING
L

depends

the

NEEDLES
SHUTTLE

BIG

and

the

LITTLE

<'_q, ) FEEDING
_:" ) TENSION

THREADING

NEEDLE
Make certain your _eedte
_s correcth] inserted with
flat side away from you.
Be sure needle is not bfunt
or bent.

_'<;i

dogs to remove aceumufeted dust and lint
which may cause NOISE OR JAMMING.

_'-I

{MATERIAL
DOESN'T
FEED PROPERLY)

I(',

Check

p_essor

Ch_ck
p_sh.pua

FEEDING

,=,,,_
SHUTTLE
,
i
_:_,_
_:,qi 1 aean and aroundtheshuttleandfaed l:i
\

i"
SLUGGISHNESS

::4

]

|eng_h.

Fl_t

SLUGGISHNESS
The more you use your mechlne, the tess
o|ten it needs oil
if you have not used
your machine tora
few months, and it
seems
sluggish, oil
your
machine+
Periodically
oil at points indicated in
your instruction book.
USE ONLY
KENMORE SEWING MACHINE OIL.

......

si4_
av_ay

THREADING
:L

THREAD
CAN TANGLE
AND SNAP without being seen. If your
thread breaks, unthmed end then RETHREAD
the machine, both top
and bottom threads,

TOP THREADING
Make sure there is no slack or
snags m the thread.
Use the
type o| thread and size needle
recommended in your mstruetmn book.

BOTTOM

.:_,;_
:

TENSION

_.'

THREADING

t. Insert bobbin mid shuttle making sure bobbin
rotates counter clockwise,
2, Pull thread through slot (A) and then to the left.
Pull thread through notch (B) and leave thread
about 4 inches long.

Compere your straight stitching with the illustrations.
If it looks like either
of the top two, correct the thread tension dla{as shown,
BE SURE TO NOTE YOUR PRESENT SETTING
BEFORE YOU START

DL_C_'_a_

Ltppt_r th}'_ad

Ioo

tetl_lOF_

ngh_

Increase ten_ion

'::
,h

,_o,oos.

COMPLETING

THREADING

[i i

Hold top thread loosely m left hand and rotate
handwheel toward you one complete turn, Next,
pull top and bottom threads under and to the back
of presser toot.

Correct

Slllghing

IMPORTANT
For your salary an important
new feature has been incorporated
in this machine,
The light/power switch provides electrm current for the motor as well as the light,
In order to operate the machine this swatch must be on.
i:il
hi

if you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just
turn off the light/power switch and the machine can not be started accidentally by
pressing on the toot control, This feature also applies when the machine =s in
storage.

The foot control is used to vary the machine speed from zero to high.

Sea

Canada

Inc.

Dear Homemaker:
You have just invested
Before using your new
moment and carefully
instructions
on how to

in a very fine zigzag sewing machine
Kenmore machine, please pause for a
read this booklet which contains
operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension
adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain
the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense
for conditions beyond our control
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always
available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember,
if you have questions about your machine, always mention the
model number and serial number when you nquire

Kenmore

Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model
number and serial number of this appliance.
The model number and serial number are
located on the nomenclature plate, as identified
on Page 2 of this booklet.
Model No.385.
Serial No.__
Retain these numbers for future reference.

WARRANTY
#
25-YEAR

FULL

WARRANTY

SEWING

MACHINE

HEAD
For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will,
charge, repair defects
in material
or workmanship
appear in the sewing machine head.
FULL

TWO YEAR

WARRANTY

MENT

OF SEWING

MACHINE

free of
which

ON ELECTRICAL

EQUIP-

For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of
charge, repair defects
in material
or workmanship
which
appear in the electrical
equipment
of the sewing machine,
including motor, wiring, switch and speed control.
FULL

90-DAY

MECHANICAL

._-=

WARRANTY

ALL

PARTS

÷
.=-

AND

ADJUSTMENTS

For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of
charge, replace any parts and provide
mechanical
service
necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except
for normal maintenance.

__z-

To obtain warranty service described above, SIMPLY CONTACT
THE NEAREST
SEARS STORE OR SERVICE
CENTER
IN
CANADA..
This warranty
applies only while this product is in
use in CANADA.

#
This warranty
gives you specific legal rights, and you
have other rights which vary from state to state.

may also

÷
SEARS

CANADA

INC°, TORONTO,

ONT

MSB 2B8

SEWING

MACHINE

Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine,
should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply
contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears Stores.
Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.

The model number of your Sewing Machine wilt be shown on
your nomenclature
plate on the back of your Sewing Machine.
See page 2 for Iocation_

WHEN ORDERING
REPAIR
FOLLOWING
IN FORMATION:
* MODEL

NUMBER

*NAME

PARTS,

ALWAYS

OF ITEM *PART

GIVE

THE

DESCRIPTION

tf the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will
be electronically
transmitted
to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling°

SEARS

S-385

CANADA

INC., TORONTO,

Printed

ONT M5B 2B8

in Taiwan

Part No. 651800015

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Kenmore 3851788180 User Manual SEWING MACHINE Manuals And Guides L0803272

KENMORE Electronic Sewing Manual L0803272 KENMORE Electronic Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Electronic Sewing installation guides

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