Kenmore Sewing Machine 385 Users Manual
3851584180 3851584180 KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides L0903800 View the owners manual for your KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #3851584180. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore KENMORE SEWING MACHINE Manual
KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Manual L0903800 KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Mechanical Sewing installation guides
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2015-01-24
: Kenmore Kenmore-Sewing-Machine-385-Users-Manual-327929 kenmore-sewing-machine-385-users-manual-327929 kenmore pdf
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OWNER'S MANUAL
:
SEWING
MODEL
MACHINE
385. 1584180
: :: :: :: i::::!
:::ii::_:i!:::::::::!
_I:I
ii:!:i:!i_
SEARS, ROEBUCK
AND
CO.
Dear Customer:
You
have just
invested
in a very
please pause for a moment
and care for your
Specific
the
Advice
on the
zigzag sewing
machine.
read this booklet
Before
which
using your
contains
new Kenmore
instructions
on how
machine,
to operate
machine.
instructions
obtain
fine
and carefully
are glven
best sewing
operation
and avoid
and care
Please remember,
if you
the model
and serial
number
on threading,
results
of your
have questions
number
tension
adiustments0
unnecessary
machine
about
when
service
is always
your
cleaning,
expense
machine
oiting,
etc. This will
for conditions
available
or need
at your
parts
beyond
nearest Sears Retail
and service,
you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record
m
number
of this
are Located
space provided
appliance.
on the
below
the
The modei
nomenclature
model
number
prate,
number
and
seriai
and serta! number
as identified
on Page 3 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385,
Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL tS A CENTER
NEEDLE,
help you
our control.
LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE,
Store.
always mention
TABLE
SECTION
KNOW
I.
YOUR
PREPARE
2,
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR
Setting
Adiust
Thread
2
2_3
4
SEWING
Set Up the Machine
.........................
o Plut in the machine
and Switch on the Power
o Foot Control
Use .......................
o Set the Pressure Dial .....................
o
o
-
5_9
.........
Spool Pins ....................
the Presser Foot Lever ..................
Cutter
............................
Table
Change the Presser Foot ....................
o Presser Foot Types
.....................
Choose Your Needle and Thread
..............
o Check Your Needle .........................
o Fabrtc, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length
o To Change Your Needle .....................
Prepare the Bobbin
..........................
6 To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine
a Wind the Bobbin
.......................
e Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin
Holder
SECTION
3°
5
5
6
7
7
7
a Accessory
Storage Box
......................
o Free Arm Sewing:
the Removable
Extension
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do
..........
o Check Your Presser Foot .....................
8
8_9
10_12
10
10
11_12
13_t4
t3
Chart
........
.........
....
14
14
15_16
15
15
16
Prepare Your Top Thread ..................
o Thread Your Needle
.........................
17"20
17
o Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
.................
o Adjust
the Top Thread Tension
..............
Stitch Selector
.............................
Stitch Width Control
........................
18
19_20
20
21
Stitch Length Control
......................
Adjusting
Stretch Stitch Balance
................
Reverse Stitch Control
...................
21
21
22
Starting
22
To Sew
LEARN
Practica]
THE
Stitch
o Turn a Square Corner ......................
o Use the Darning Plate ....................
o Topstitchmg
............................
Darning ...............................
Straight Stretch .............................
Zigzag Stitches ....................
• Basic Zigzag .............................
o Satin Stitch .........................
o Applique .............................
o Bar Tacking .........................
o Monogramming
.........................
o Embroidery ...........................
o Sew a Button ............................
o Overcasting Stitch .......................
o Rick-Rack Stretch .......................
e Three-Step Zigzag .......................
o Overcast Stretch Stitching
...................
e Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............
Blind Hemming ............................
Lace Work .................................
Buttonhole Making ........................
Sew in a Zipper ........................
Shell Stitching .............................
Two-Point Shell Stitching .....................
Smocking .................................
Stretch Patching ............................
Fagoting Stitch ............................
Herring Bone Stretch ........................
Elastic Stretch Stitch .........................
Box Stitching ..............................
MACHINE
A Portable case or Cabinet is Available
.............
Locate and Identify
the parts ..................
Indentify
the Accessories
..........................
SECTION
OF CONTENTS
.............................
SECTION
4.
Chart
......................
PROBLEMS
CHART
What to Do When .........................
SECTION
5.
CARE
FOR
YOUR
Replace the Light
Clean the Bobbin
23"_26
PARTS LIST
27_29
27
27
INDEX
......................................
............................................
48"--49
MACHINE
Bulb
.......................
Holder
......................
Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs
Oiling the Machines ..........................
STITCHES
Straight Stitches
..........................
o Straight
Stitch
...........................
a Use the Seam Gutdes ......................
PERFORMANCE
27
28
28
29
29
30_37
30
31
32
32
33
33
34
35
35
36
37
37
38
39
40"_41
42"43
44
44
45
45
46
46
47
47
50
50
.............
51
51
52_53
54_55
: ::locate: anaiiaentify:
A
fuN-line
nearest
of
Sears
sewing
retail
cabinets
store
or
is available
through
our
ttle Parts:: i
at your
general
catalog.
Another
your
option
Kenmore
• , _ buy
a Carrying
goes anywhere,
can
Case . _ , then
be stored
Thread
Spool
Pins
any-
where.
Bobbin
Upper
Take-up
Thread
Spindle
Width
Control
Stitch
Length
Control
Reverse
Stitch
Lever
Top Thread
Control
Face Cover
Thread
Winding
Guide
Tension
Piate
Cutter
Needie Plate
\
J
\\
\
\
\
J
2
Extension Tabte
\,\ (Accessory storage box)
Con trol
Arm
Cover
Carrying
Plate
\
\
\
Handle
/
i
!/
Presser
Hand Wheel
Push*Pull
Foot
,.
Clutch
Stitch
Selector
Stretch
Stitch
/_
Adiuster
Snap-on
.t .JSll
Free Arm
L_ght and
Power Sw_tch
Plug Connector
.j
Foot
_-,
-.,
Nomenclature
Plate
Control
Button
Bobbin
Darning
plate
Buttonhole
Large screw
opener
driver
Needle
Small
set
screw
Lint
drwer
Spool
\
J
Zipper
foot
Stra3ght
stitch foot
--%
Sliding
buttonhole
/"
toot
/
brush
pin teft
Set Up the Machine
Plug in the Machine
and Switch
Power
supply
o
on the Power
Foot Control
Use
plug
Power
swlIch
\
Fool c/ontro!
Sewmg
ligh!
Power swltch
%
J
4.
PIug
connector
Before
the
plug
be
the
power
sure
into
your
sw_tch
is
OFF
I,
Check
Volt
2,
3.
your
outlet
to be sureitis
and power
and sewing
switch
to turn
light.
The
a 110to
!20
Your
FEATUR E:
machine
wil!
lighttpower
switch
interrupted
or
light/power
switch
children.
control
not
operate
sewing,
to
unless
the
If you
are
on.
turn
prevent
off
the
injury
to
To
regulates
increase
speed,
Insert
the
machine
plug
outlet,
as shown.
It will
Insert
the power
supply
into
only
the
three-prong
fit one way.
plug into
the outlet.
speed
at
decrease
gently
press down
with
toot.
speed,
release
your
foot
control
is sensitive
pres-
sure slightly,
NOTE:
The
foot
win
increase
sewing
AC outlet.
the
you sew.
the ball of your
is turned
stop
foot
which
To
SAFETY
inserting
machine,
light
on the power
Machine
plug
NOTE.
Push the
or
Practice
on
regulate
your
your
decrease
speed
and
your
immediately.
a scrap
of
sewmg
taste and needs,
fabric
to
speed
to
SetUp the MaChine:i:I(Continued)
=
f
Set the Pressure Dial
Groove
Pressure
control
dial
Setting
mark
J
The pressure
control
Set the dial aligning
dial is located
the setting
3 .....
most
2 .....
applique
1 .....
basting,
sewing
Also for
velours
NOTE:
The
the
it.
inside
marl{
the face cover plate.
on the dial with
the groove
as follows.
sewing
and Cut-Outwork
pressure
machine
chiffon,
lace, organdy
and knits
dial
should
(with
more
and other
be reset at 3 after
is ready for most normal
lightweight
fabrics.
stretch).
sewing
changing
pressure,
the next time
so
you use
o
Setting
Spool
Pins
o
f
Adjust
the Presser Foot
= Thread Cutter
Lever
Spool pln felt-_._O
Spool pin
Normal up
_--
pos_llon
l
Tuh[rteeard
(
Hi l,\i
positron
"'-
Presser toot
lever
The
spool
spools
pins
of thread
are used
in order
for
holding
to feed thread
the
You
to
the machine.
To use, pull
spool
storage.
felt
up
on
the
the
spool
pros.
pros.
Push
Place the
down
for
The
Presser
Foot
Lever
raises
and
lowers
your
presse r foot.
to
help
you
1/4"
for easy removal
place
heavy
higher
than
handy
thread
The threads
under
of scissors to cut the
sewing.
Just use the
cutter.
are cut
the
proper
length
for
the next seam.
the normal
of the presser foot
fabrics
need a pair
after you finish
starttng
You can raise it about
up position
don't
thread
or
the presser
foot
7
=
Accessory
Storage Box
o
Free-Arm
Sewing:
the Removable
Extension
Table
Your sewing machine can do free arm
This feature makes sewing easy for:
To remove:
To Remove
the Extension
(for free-arm
1.
The
lid
of the
open toward
accessory
storage
box
lifts
you,
Grip
sewing.
TabLe
sewing)
the table
with
your
index
finger
and thumb,
as shown.
2_
Pull gently
toward
you,
J
Sewing
accessories
are conveniently
located
The extension
table will
snap out.
Bar tacking
m the box,
and
To Attach:
Extension
To Attach
the Extension
(for flat-bed
8
Fit the tabs into
2.
With
your
thumb
TabJe
the slot, as shown.
and index
finger,
gently
on
made garments
to
around the needle.
table
sewing)
t.
to reinforce
waistlines
snap in.
pockets,
plackets
ready-made
or home-
avoid
bunching
fabric
J
* Stitchingsleeves,
wmstbands,
pant_egs,
oranycirculargarment
area.
Darning
socks
or mending
or areas of wear in children's
knees,
e_bows,
clothes.
*
Sawing
etc.
buttons
on sleeves,
waistbands,
__o
: c:,:.::_::_:-i
_:/ ::::
::=,,--:-:::::!_,:_:;:_>:
¸, .::_:-:
:_
_ :_:
:_:.
;i::iKnow What the Presser Feet Will Do
o
Check Your
Presser Foot
o
The Presser feet are an important
what
each foot
does in order
Your
presser foot
snaps on the foot
tf you
feature
to use them
of this machine,
is held in place by a Foot
holder,
need to remove
which
or attach
is seldom
the foot
To Remove:
You
need to know
effectively.
Change the Presser Foot
Use the
Stitch
Holder,
Each presser foot
correct
Pattern
presser
Chart
foot
and the
for
the
detailed
stitch
you
directions
wish
for
to
sewing
sew.
with
Consult
the
the various
presser feet.
merely
removed.
holder,
here is what
you do:
To Attach:
To Snap Off:
f
Snap-on
button
\
k__.
holder
screw
, J
To Remove:
Turn
the
screw
the machine.
driver.
To Attach:
toward
Use the
the
back
large
of
1.
screw
To Snap Off the Presser Foot:
Match
the
holder
with
the presser
2.
Fit
the
hole
the
in
the
threaded
foot
hole
bar.
foot
holder
screw
into
the hole.
3.
10
1.
in
Tighten the screw by turning it
toward you.
Raise
toward
the
needle
bar
to
its highest
position
by turning
the hand
wheel
you.
2,
Raise the presser foot.
3.
Press the snap-on button
foot will drop off.
on the back of the foot holder.
The presser
•
Presser Foot Types
Strmght
f
Zigzag Foot
A:
Use this
foot
for
both
Zigzag toot
straight
and
H:
zigzag
Zigzag stitching
Bar tacking
Button
sewing
Rick-rack
Place the presser
foot
zontal
pin
on
the
under
the
groove
so the horifoot
of
lies
the
iust
foot
holder,
2.
Lower
the presser
foot
lock the presser foot
holder
to
in place.
If
you
presser
press
foot
do
not
foot
snap
down
holder
hear
on
firmly
m place,
the
presser
until
stretch
hemming
you
stitching
Topstitching
Straight
stitching
only.
(see page 2__7),
{see page 2_88),
stretch
(see page 29).
(see page 35),
{see page 36),
(see page 3__7),
(see page 38),
Lace work
(see page 40),
Two-point
shell stitching
(see page 44),
Smocking
the
for straight
needle position
Straight
toot
(see page 37),
Stretch
NOTE:
Uses:
exclusively
Straight
(see page 3__5),
zigzag
Overcast
Blind
(see page 3_44),
stitch
stretch
Three-step
Serging
t.
(see page 3_0),
(see page 32),
Overcasting
To Snap On the Presser Foot:
Use this foot
using center
stitching.
Uses:
Foot
Fagoting
(see page 455),
patching
(see page 45__),
(see page 46),
Herring
bone
Elastic
stretch
Box stitching
stretch
(see page 4_6),
(see page 47),
(see page 47).
hear the snap.
11
i!ii¸ililiiii!i!i!il
!iiiii
!!iiiiiiiiiiiiii
¸,¸iilill
ii!ilili!
i!
_/:KnowWilatthe
Preset
Feet Will: Do
(Continued)
o Presser Foot Types (Continued)
Sliding ButtonhoJe Foot
Zipper Foot
Satin Stitch Foot
(-
Sliding
buttonhole
toot
_
E:
Zipper
foot
F:
stitch
foot
J
Use this foot for buttonholes of built in
system,
It is marked to measure your
buttonholes accurately.
This foot
Uses:
Uses:
Buttonhole
making (see page 40).
can be set to sew on each side of
your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the
zipper and keep the seam straight.
Zipper application {see page 4_2_2),
Use this transparent
outlining applique,
Usesz
Satin
stitch
Applique
foot for satin stitch and
(see page 31),
(see page 32),
Monogramming
Shell
12
Satin
stitching
(see page 33),
(see page 43).
_,_----dfm===_
,M--,
_t
Your
choice
In your
of needle
and thread
needle case, you will
depends
find
......
on the fabric
the following
Blue {11) ..........
for stretch
Orange
for lightweight
{11)
Red {14)
Purple
..........
(16)
for
.........
..........
for
o
Check
Your
has
a
topstltching
heavy
stitching
weight
weight
and
tabrics
decorative
on these fabrics
needle
thicker
{18)
fabrics
medium-heavy
(This
needles:
or medium-heavy
topstitchmg
Green
color-coded
fabrics
for medium
...........
you are sewing.
weight
larger
thread
hole
for
thread,)
fabrics
and decorative
top-
on these fabrics
Needle
1,
Look
for barbed
2.
A damaged
needle can cause permanent
and silk-Like
fabrics.
Always
buy
smooth
and consistent
a good
or blunt
quality
point.
thread.
It should
snags or runs
resist
in knits,
tangling
fine silks
and be strong,
in thickness.
13
o
Fabric,
Needle,
Thread
FABRIC
Lightwmght:
Batiste0 Dimttyo Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace. Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta°
Voile,
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton,
Cotton
Blends,
Percate, Gingham,
Shantung,
Pique,
Seersucker,
Satin, Kmts.
Vinyl Su_tmgs= Lmen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
Medium
Heavy Weight:
Corduroy,
Demm_ Woot,
Sailcloth,
Wool Flannel=
Gabardine,
Velvets,
Lea ther
Heavy Weight:
Coatings,
Upholstery
Cotton
Ducks Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorat=ve
top-stitching
on all types of fabr=c
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester
Double Kmts,
Nyton Tricot,
Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Cite Tricot
and Stitch
Length Chart
To Change Your
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
THREAD
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized
Cotton
Silk A
11-ORANGE
14-RED
14-RED
or
16*PURPLE
18-GREEN
t t -B LUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
!
RECOMMENDED
STITCH
LENGTH
SETTING
2
(12 stitches
inch)
per
50 Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
2--2.5
(10-12 stitches
per *rich )
50 Mercerized
CottOn
Mercerized
Heavy-Duty
Polyester
Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
2--3
(8-!0 stitches
per Lnch)
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester
Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
3
(8 stretches per
mch)
,6-PURPLE
! Buttonhole
18-GREEN
SIZE
[Use as top
Twist
thread
on_y)
Polyester
Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized
Cotton
Needle
clamp
screw
Flat
stale
away
from
you
NOTE :
Raise
tion
3--4
(6-8 stitches
per inch)
2--2.5
(10-12 stitches
per inch)
the
by
needle
turning
bar to
the
its
highest
hand
wheel
screw
by
positoward
you,
t.
2.
3.
Loosen
the
toward
you.
Remove
insert
with
needle
the needle
the
new
cfamp
by pulling
needle
into
the flat side away from
the
5.
Tighten
box.
the needle
clamp
from
screw
your
tt
needle
clamp
you.
Push the needle up as tar as it will
screwdriver
turning
tt downward.
4.
large
t4
Needle
go.
firmly
accessory
with
the
storage
Prepare the Bobbin
o
!.
To Remove
Gently
the Bobbin
push
it towards
2.
Set aside.
3.
Lift
down
from
on the
o
the Machine
bobbin
cover
plate
Wind the Bobbin
and slide
Bobbin
you.
out the bobbin,
winding
spindle
Clutch
as shown.
1.
Put
your
spool
of
thread
onto
spool
pin,
with
the
thread
winding
in the direction
sh own.
2.
Pull
the
wtnding
clutch
from
the
machine
to
stop
the
needle
from
moving
while
you
the bobbin.
3o
Draw thread
4.
Place
out
away
the
from
spool
threaded
through
bobbin
bobbin
on the
winder
bobbin
tension
winding
disc as shown.
spindle
so that
the thread
comes
on top.
5.
Push the bobbin
6.
Holding
7.
When the
onto
winder
spindle
end of thread,
bobbin
is slightly
to the right
depress the foot
filled,
stop
until
it elicks_
control.
the machine
and clip
the thread
coming
from
the bobbim
8.
Slowly
start
the machine
9.
Push the bobbin
10.
Remove
11.
Push in the clutch
wlnder
again and wind
spindle
the thread
to the left and clip
until
the bobbtn
stops.
the thread.
the bobbin.
for normal
sewing
operation.
15
=
f
Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder
_
F
®
........................
1,
Put
holder
J
the
bobbin
so
that
counter-cfockwJse
into
the
the
thread
(left).
bobbin
feeds
"x
®
®
2.
F
Pu_l
about
toward
slot
_.
you
4
inches
through
of
the
thread
tension
3.
Then
pull
the thread
clockwise
toward
the back of the machine
through
the slot
4.
Slide the
it down
bobbin.
Atlow
thread
plate.
16
bobbin
pushing
to show
cover
plate while
slightly
about
above
over
4 inches
the
the
of
needle
Prepare Your Top Thread
Thread Your Needle
f
k.,
Raise take-up
lever to its highest
Raise presser foot
Place spool
The numbered
steps above follow
the numbers
position
by turning
hand wheel
toward
j
you.
tever.
on spool
pln as shown,
1.
Draw thread
into
thread
2.
While
holding
check
spring
holder.
3_
Firmly
draw
thread
4.
Draw
5.
Thread
then
6.
Thread
needle from
thread
w_th thread
guide using
near spool,
both
draw
up and through
coming
from
the back
of the spool.
hands.
thread
take-up
down
lever from
into
the
tension
right
to left.
area
and then
around
the
on the illustrations.
Dotted
lines
show
places
loops and then ts pulled
tight.
where
the
thread
down
and slip It through
the thread
guide.
thread
NOTE:
You
is slipped
may want
into
front
needle bar thread
guide.
to back.
to cut the end of thread
with
sharp scissors for easier needle
threading.
17
:ii::iPr_p_ _ou_::TOp
Th:readii_(cOntinued
):
= Pick Up Your
Bobbin Thread
f
,j
,,
1.
Rinse
needle
and
presser
thread
rotate
foot
loosely
turn.
J
Hold
in left hand
handwheel
you one complete
18
_ever.
toward
J
2.
Bring
top
bobbin
th read,
thread
up by pulling
3.
Pull both
threads
under
and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving
to 6 inches of thread clear.
4
Adjust
the Top Thread
Tens=on
Choose the Correct
Top
side
ol
The best tension
labrlc
Setting
mark
Tensmn:
will
depend
on;
the stiffness
and thtckness
the number
of fabric
of the fabric
layers
the type of stitch
ll_read
The lop thread
_s too t_ght
The top thread
_s too loose_
Tighlen
" _w-
Top s_de
Top
stde
ol fabric
For Straight
The
Stitch
_deal straight
fabric,
If you
as shown
look
gaps, that
When
ot
stitch
at the
each stttch
adjusting
will
have threads
above, magnified
stttch,
top thread
between
the
two
layers
of
The top thread
appears on the
underside
ot the
tabr_c.
to show detail.
front
is smooth
locked
and back,
you
wilt
notice
that
there
are no
the higher
the number,
the tighter
The
bobbin
appears
thread
on
upper
sur|ace
fabric_
the
the
ol
,G
and even.
tension,
la
the top
thread.
k_
,
Tension
The
bottom
top
Tension
Is too loose:
thread
ot the
ot the stitch
will
through
the
The
bobbin
The bottom
side
the
top
shows
fabnc.
_stoo
feet bumpy.
the stitch
thread
will
of the fabric.
will
,,
J
t_ght:
come
The top
through
side of
feel bumpy.
19
:_Stitch Selector
For Zigzag Stitch
In the correct
of
fabric
below
zigzag
and the
top
for the correct
stitch,
the
threads
bobbin
will
appearance.
show
threads
will
siightly
To match
not show on the top side
on the
bottom
this appearance,
adjust
side.
your
See
top
tensi on.
Top tension
Top tension
Too Tight
Too Loose
Just Right
iiiiii!!i!i!
Top stde of Fabric
Top side of Fabric
Top side of Fabric
Red
indicator
.........
The stitch
Simply
turn
on
stitch
the
stitch
length
NOTE:
Stitch
i!ii
iiiii
i !il
iii iiii iii!i
Bottom
side of Fabric
Too Tigh t:
--
2O
Corner
ot
each
zigzag
will
pull
together
on
the
top side of fabrics.
Bottom side of Fabric
Bottom side of Fabric
Too Loose:
Just Right:
Mimmize
the amount
of top thread vtsibfe on
the bottom
side of
fabric without
causing
excessive puckering or
causing
the
bobbin
thread to show on the
top side. Results vary
with _abrlc, thread and
sewing conditions,
The
top
thread
will loop through
bottom
s_de of
tabrtc and will be
pulled
almost
together.
selector
this
control
control
indicator
control
determines
until
the
panel.
the stitch
desired
stitch
The bottom
is set at the stretch
is indicated
row
stitch
J
you select.
of stitches
by the
red indicator
is selected
when
the
position,
To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of
fabric when selecting a stitch.
patterns
are color-coded
to recommend
setting
zones
control.
ZONES
Orange
Green
........
..........
Straight,
Zigzag
Geometric
and Utility
Decorative
Blue ..........
Buiit4n
Buttonhole
Yellow
Stretch
Stitches
........
Stitches
Stitches
Making
at the stitch
length
Stitch Width Control
V
Stitch
....Adjusting
Length Control
V Length
Widtl_
Stretch
SIIlch
,,)
.........J
The
width
stitch
of the stitch
The higher
stitch.
width
control
regulates
the
you select.
the number,
Stretch Stitch Balance
the wider
the
The stitch
length
length
of stitch,
stitches
setting.
The higher
control
regulates
the
and also has a stretch
the number,
the
longer
the
4-
<
tn stretch
V
adjuster
h
may
0 means no feed.
controt
NOTE:
Stretch
at Stretch
Stitches,
you
buttonhole
you
lengh
this
Stitch.
When
that
set
Smocking stretch
select
(blue),
built4n
make
at
'%"
When sewing
need
to
and
stitch
a neutral
"--",
or
some fabrics,
adjust
the stitches
m
this
you
control
for appearance
to
sake.
like the illustrations
the
the
left,
adjust
toward
"'--"
until
center
design.
the
design
right
control
"Stretch
be
If destgn seems open
the
appears
hand
toward
design
to
control
looks
be closed
illustrations,
"+"
until
slightly
like
turn
stitching
the
as in
the
is as
you desire.
Stitch"Study
the
and
blue
this
control.
orange,
sections
stitch
length
the
the stitch
yellow
around
These
recommended
to
(between
the stretch
to
tf
sure
do not set the stitch
control
usually
position}.
balance
seiect
sewing,
position
stitch.
To
stitch
should
Riekrack
stretch
are
zones
of
and color-coded
stitches
indicator
pictured
on
panei.
21
_: Starting To Sewii:
Now that
Reverse
you
are familiar
with the controls
on your
you are ready to start to sew with
each time you stt down to sew:
your
1.
be straight,
Inspect
the needle,
for the
fabric
fabrics
2.
It should
and thread
being used.
made of synthetic
Before
inches
plamng
to the
the
new
blends
materral
rear of the
on
the
properly
set and sharp
the needles
machine,
see that
on to
machine.
more
the
threads
your
easily
ends
during
Below
provided
for the machine,
are some good habrts to follow
on the point.
to change
to dull
Hold
and with the accessories
sewing
Do not be afraid
tend
machine.
machine
Kenmore
needle
It should
be the correct
frequently.
Many
than fabrics
made of natural
the
have been drawn
of
threads
the sewing
of the first
size
of the new
fibers.
3 or 4 stitches
about
4
of the
seam.
',,,,
j
To reverse
stitch,
trol
sewing.
during
hold
Release to sew forward
down
this
3.
Test
the machine
the machine
con4.
Fabric
the
again.
should
right
stitch
on a scrap of fabric
for the length
be placed
of stitch
under
edge of the material
you plan to use.
and tension
the presser
placed
suitable
foot
with
on the 5/8"
The fabric
to your
the bulk
should
be double
thickness.
Adjust
fabric.
of the material
seam marking
to
the left of the needle and
on the needle plate when
making
a slmpte
seam.
5_
Run the machine
machine will sew.
6.
Fasten each seam by back
7,
Always
8.
Guide
that
9,
22
fimsh
sewing
the fabric
the normal
When turning
at a stow
even speed.
tacking
The
more
at the beginning
pressure
gently
with
your
hand
in front
manually,
always
on the foot
control,
the faster
the
point.
of the needle.
Never pull
is altered.
the hand wheel
put
and end of the seam.
each seam w_th the needle at its highest
feeding
you
turn
tt toward
you.
or hold
the fabric
tn such a way
PracticalStitchChart
Stitch
Stitch
Selection
Foot
and Other Attach.
Stra=ght
STRAIGHT
1
I
I
I
J
Check
Chart
I
I
1
t
Thread
Tension
RICK*RACK
STRETCH
Refer
Uses
Orange
Zone
0
Regular
etc.
Check
Chart
on p. 14
2 _ 6
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Posit}on
o
Use on knits and other
for topstitching.
Check
Chart
on p. 1__44
3 _ 8
Orange
Zone
t~5
Check
Chart
2 _ 6
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Postt_on
2_5
Decorate
2 ~ 6
Orange
Zone
2~3
Use for fimshing
searms,
zippers,
topstitching,
to Page
darmng,
27 _ 29,
42 _ 43
good
29
Zipper
foot
Strmght
Zigzag
on p_14
BLIND
HEM
STITCH
Stitch
Width
2_6
IIi
III
III
Ul
ZIGZAG
Stitch
Length
on p. t4
DarMng
p_ate
STRAIGHT
STR ETCH
Needle
Check
Chart
stretch
fabrtcs,
Fimsh edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique,
monogram,
embroidery,
sewing bar tacks.
garments
with
seams.
one
row
or several
30 _ 35
I
35
38
on p. 14
23
Stitch
Selection
Stitch
OVERCAST
STRETCH
Foot
and Other Attach,
Zigzag
%
THREE-STEP
ZIGZAG
Zigzag
%
<
SMOCKING
STITCH
Zigzag
4
i
d
SHELL
STITCH
p
%
Sat_n
%
SERGING
Zigzag
Needle
Check
Chart
24
2_6
on p. 14
Check
Chart
2_6
Stitch
Stitch
I
....
Length
Width
i
uses
3_5
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
0.5_
tterer to t_age
Use for swlmwear0 ski pants and other
garments that require stretch.
1
37
36
I Use for fimshing
seams.
on p.L4
Check
Chart
on p. 14
2_6
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
3_5
Use m smocking
Check
Chart
on p. 14
4_9
Orange
Zone
3 _ 5
Finish hems, sleeve and neck opemngs.
Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to
overcast and seam,
Do shetl tucking on blouses and lingerie.
44
Bfue (11 )
3~6
Yelfow
Stretch
Stitch
Pos_t_on
3~5
Fimsh hems, sleeve and neck openings,
Use on nylon tricot and other linger=e to
overcast and seam.
DO shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
37
on p. 14
t
I
Tension
Thread
or as a decorative
stitch.
45
Stitch
Stitch
Selection
Foot
end Other
BOX
STITCHING
Zigzag
(_
ELASTIC
STR ETC H
%
FAGOTING
Zigzag
STRETCH
PATCHING
(\
(q
<>
<>
<>
TWO-POINT
SHELL
ST| TCH IN G
L>
r_>
C>
Check
Chart
3 _ 8
Stitch
Length
Orange
Zone
Stitch
Width
Uses
3_5
Use tot
ovedappmg
seams.
Check
Chart
on p. 1_4
3 _ 6
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Pos_tton
3_5
Check
Chart
3 ~ 8
0.5 ~ 2
5
Use for apptymg
elastic.
45
Check
Chart
on p. 14
2 _ 6
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
Use for patchwork
Check
Chart
on p. 14
3 -- 8
Orange
Zone
Do shet_ tucking on blouses and fingene.
Th_s stitch can also be used as a single
overiock
stitch as welt.
i
47
46
Zigzag
%
47
Join two folded edges for decorative
open*work
appearance.
%
%
Refer to Page
i
on p. 14
Zigzag
L>
Thread
Tension
Needle
on p. 14
Zigzag
/
Attach,
quilting.
44
25
: iP'ractic_i:_s_itc_Cha_i::
Stitch
iContinued):
Stitch
Selection
HERRING
BONE
STRETCH
Foot
i;
and OtherAttach,
Zigzag
Needle
Check
Chart
Thread
Tension
Stitch
Length
Stitch
Width
2-6
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
3_5
Use as hemming stitch
cloth end draperms,
2~6
Blue Zone
3~5
Buttonholes:
on p. 14
Uses
Refer to Page
for blankets,
table-
46
/\
BUTTONHOLE
Check
Chart
also corded
buttonholes.
40 ~ 41
on p, 1_4
D
SATIN
26
STITCH
Satin
Check
Chart
on p. 14
3_8
0.5--
1
Use for applique
work, also as decorative
fimsh for placematso blanketso collars,
cuffs and pockets.
31
Straight Stitches
o
Straight
f
= Use the Seam Guides
Stitch
Sat the Machine
Stitch
/
w=dth
control 0
I
Stitch
Before
sewing
with
foot,
always
set
control
to
the straight
the
0 to
stitch
stitch
avoid
breaking
Raise the presser foot,
2.
Rmse
the
3.
Place
to
the
stitct!
foot
results
foot,
wilt
acceptable
but
also
results.
the
are
straight
edge
a stitching
needle
the
Cornering guide
guides
the
beginning
and
want
end
of
to reverse to
wtdth,
on the
plate
to help you measure
The lines
the 5/8"
J
needle
are 1/8"
and 7/8"
seam
apart,
with
lines marked.
lock the stitch,
the
Rmse the presser
foot
and remove
•
Turn
a Square
Corner
the fabric.
to
its
highest
9.
Cutthe
threads.
posit{on,
H: Straight foot
with
needle
At
seam, you may
8.
t.
Stretch Stitch
sewmg
7.
width
needle.
Best
seam
are engraved
zone
obtained
The
length
control orange
NOTE:
._/
I
Top thread tens|on
control
2 to 6
of
the fabric
guide
plate
tine
(5/8"
next
on
is
the
most
common).
4.
zigzag
Draw
the
threads
and lower
toward
the presser
the back
foot.
fabric
provide
5.
Press the foot
6.
Hold
the fabnc
guide
that
it
along
control
1.
loosely
the
To turn
and gently
guide
line,
so
It feeds naturally.
Do
not
pul{
it tight.
force
the fabric
or try
a square corner
Stop
stitching
2.
by
turning
toward
you
when
facing
you
lines
Raise
the
guide,
the
fabric
the 5/8"
3.
and
needle
cornermg
to
5/8"
from
the
edge:
Lower
st{tching
lower
hand
the fabric
up
with
the
wheel
edge
the
as shown.
presser
foot
to
the
edge with
foot
and begin
line
and
turn
seam guide.
the
presser
m the new direction.
27
'_;_:i':i_:_ii_!::!:!:i:i_;;:;:ii_::;:!i_i:i:!_:_!,
:!:i iiii:i:_,_;_:_/i_::: :,i:x _!_!_!'
=
Use the Darning
::!W
•
Plate
Topstltchi
ng
Set the Machine
Darning pfate
\
Stitch wsdth
control 0
Stitch tength
control Orange
top thread tension
controt 2 to 6
Here's How
zone
J
Sometimes
when
The Darning
you
Plate
covers
To Put on the Darning
NOTE.
The
sew,
right
want
to
contro]
the feed dogs so that
the
fabric
yourself.
they do not touch
the fabric.
1.
2.
Plate:
rectangular
needle
you
plate.
m the
In the
darning
Darning
pfate,
Plate
these
match
holes
the holes
are siightty
in the
Stretch Stitch
to the
1.
Position
the darning
2.
Fit
darning
the
5/8" mark.
holes.
Use the darning
plate
plate
plate
The feed
in the fotlowing
with
pros
into
dogs witt
the
show
needle
through
plate
holes
the darning
plate
The Stitch
Topstitchmg
ways;
your
Button
28
(see page 2_99),
Sewing
(see page 34),
emphasizes
garment
edges flat
Darning
and Its Uses
Accent
and
keeps
the
lines
seams
of
and
and crisp.
suits
of
or
blouses
two
rows
topst_tchmg
outer
edges of cuffs,
with
one
around
lapels or collars,
or
the
the fabric
edge
Evenly
guide
the fabric
to
topstitchmg
at the
edge of
right
edge
H: Straight foot
the pins on the bottom.
the
the
of
the
next
presser
foot.
3_
of center.
the presser foot.
Keep
to
4
holes
Lower
produce
5/8"
along this
an even
from
the
row
of
edgm
StraightStretch
Darning
Set the Machine
S_t the Machine
Stitch
Stitch width
control 0
w_dth
control 0
]
2
/234
3 4
Top thread
tansloR
control
2 to6
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control any number
(not
necessary
to
adjust)
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
position
2
Here's
1.
2
How
Put
the
darning
plate
on
the
needle
plate
(see page 2__88).
No presser
toot
2.
(see
Stretch Stitch
3.
Darning
Remove
plate
presser
page
foot
embroidery
hoops
Draw
the
bobbin
fabric
by holding
one
and
1__00), stretch
stitch
at
with
the
holder
between
Stretch
Stitch
hole centered.
thread
the
foot
fabric
top
spot
up
through
thread
where
Stretch
the
H: Straight foot
and taking
you
wish
to
The Stitch
and Its Uses
start darning.
This
4.
Lower
the
presser
bar
and
sew
at
a slow
speed.
5.
Move the fabric
Turn
straight
ed for knits
back
you have covered
6_
the
stitch
the
fabric
and forth
the darning
half
layer of stttching
turn
slowly
until
area.
stitch
topstitching
and sew antother
over the first
This
is the
stitch,
stretch
variation
especially
and stretch
can
of
develop-
fabrics.
also
on all fabrics.
be
used
for
|f your
fabric
is thin
use a separate
piece
hote to reinforce
or badly
of fabric
damaged,
under
the
it.
fabrics
as well.
When you finish
plate
and reptace
darning,
foot
remove
holder
the darning
and foot.
It works
and
and
other
well on
curved
seams
garments
deal
of
that will receive a great
strain
{ie. children's
on
any
cloth es)o
The
stretch
actually
stitch
stretch
but
does
as it
stitched
back
called
stitch},
when
instead
ts
and
(sometimes
action"
give
7.
fabrics
It can be used on
forward
NOTE:
was developed
knits,
sewn,
layer.
stitching
to be used on stretch
the
a
so that
fabric
not
is being
in
a
motion
"reverseit will
stretches
of breaking,
29
Basic
Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch wtdth
control
't
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
i to 5
234
Stitch length
control orange
Zone
Here°s How
2
There
are many
Consutt
Satin
the specific
Stitch
Applique
Stretch Stitch
Monogramming
Embroidery
..............
The Stitch
The
zigzag
common
your
for
stttch
sewing
buttons,
_t can
with
trims,
also
of the
buttonholes,
appliques
or as a decorative
used
to
on
stitch
hem-
and
darn*
decorate
and cut-out
stitch°
most
stitches
mending
be
Button
Sewing
Overcasting
It can be a utility
overcasting,
ing.
30
_s one
and most versatile
machine.
mmg,
J
and its Uses
work
variations
page 31,
Work
Bar Tacking
A: Zigzag foot
ways to sew a ztgzag stitch.
page 3_2,
page 32,
page 33.
page 3_3,
page 34,
page 35.
for detaited
directions.
SatinStitch
Set the Machine
Zigzag width
:
Stitch width
contro! 2 to 5
@
i
Top
thread
tension
control
3 to 8
2
3 .
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
C!ose
to 0
Stretch Stitch
F: Satin stitch
toot
Pressure dial:
The Stitch
....... 4_'
: TF
I or
and Its Uses
The Satin
stitch
used decorat=ve
is a versatile and often
stitch,
be used to overcast
ample,
......
blankets,
but
a raw edge (for exlinens,
tablecloths
stitch
Once
is especially
How
your
machine
of the fabric
weight
and napkins),
-The Satin
Here's
It can also
is set up to stitch,
you are planning
you may want
to use. Too
t_ght
satin
to experiment
stitch
on a fragment
may pucker
some light
fabrics.
attractive
in applique.
31
Bar Tacking
Set the Machine
Stitch
width
Stitch w_dth
control
2 to 5
@
_
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch
control
Top thread tenston
control 2 t.o 6
length
0.5 to t
2
Baste
{or
joiner)
applique
Stitch
sure
Stretch
F_
Satin
foot
Stitch
sewing
down
Pressure dial:
2
into
and
or left,
:i
:
=::;;
_ron-on
fabric
on the
fabric.
satin
stitch
making
points
of
pockets
and straps
applique
falls
along
the
lower
the needle
the fabric.
the
:!;i
: := :!i :::
Stitch length
control
0.5 to 1
2
with
corners,
p_vot
t: :
4
pieces
the
needle
3
Th_s stitch
outer
edge of the applique.
foot
32
around
the
When
stitch
fuse
2
ts similar
and
strain
to
is used
such
on
Raise the presser
fabric
to
the right
A:
Zigzag
toot
Stitch
to
short
reinforce
as corners
linger_e.
Sew 4 to 6 z_gzag stitches.
Stretch
a very
or
Embroidery
Monogramming
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Stitcll width
control
5
i 2 34
Top thread tension
control
2 to 6
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control 0,5 to "i
Here's
1.
2.
Stitch length controt
Any number {not
necessary to adjust)
2
How
Here's How
1.
Set the same as satin stitch,
Back
the
fabric
with
Put
the
plate
paper
or
darning
plate
on the
needle
(see page 28).
2.
Remove
foot
3,
Adjust
the
holder
(see page 10).
4
mterfacing.
Stretch Stitch
3.
Draw
with
F'
Satin
stitch
4.
toot
the
letters
tailor's
chalk.
Satin
stitch,
width
as necessary
on
the
No presSer
foot
fabric
Stretch
4.
adjusting
to
the stitch
form
Oarmng plate
each
.
pattern.
5.
Draw
the
with
tailor's
Stretch
dery
If using
when
paper,
carefully
you have finished
remove
sewing.
stitch
width
as desired
on
the
(see page 2I).
Stitch
design
to
fabric
chalk,
the
fabric
hoops
and
between
place
embroi_
under
the
needle.
tt
6_
Lower
the
presser
engage the top thread
7,
Holding
the
top
thread
rotate
the
hand
one complete
turn.
hand,
you
foot
Put|
the
bobbin
top
thread
lever
to
tension.
in your
whee|
left
toward
thread
to
through
to the surface
draw
the
of the fabric.
8_
Using
the
fabric
a medium
marked
carefully
speed,
outline,
stitch
guiding
along
the
by hand.
33
o Sew a Button
Set the Machine
Stitch width control
Must be adiu sted
_
2
3
4
Top thread tenston
control 2 to 6
Stitch length control
Any number {not
necessary to adiust )
,_,
Use the darning
t.
plate for button
Match
foot.
the center
Adjust
the stitch
sewmg
of the button
To
(see page 28).
holes
to the center
of the slot on the presser
4
21
Stretch Stitch
3.
Lower
Turn
the foot
the
hand
width
to hold
wheel
button.
A:
34
Zigzag toot
Darning pta
4.
Stitch
several times.
so that
needle wilt drop
the button
by
hand
so
in each hole.
needle
threads
enter
leaving
a 8"
shank,
cut
the
tail.
Bring
through
the
hole
it around
the
bottom
side
needle
thread
down
m the
button
and wind
Draw
will
J
the
the
shank.
in place.
that
,.....................
strengthen
either
hole of the
the
and knot,
thread
to
the
Overcasting
0
Stitch
Rick-Rack
f
Stretch
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control
2 to 5
2 3 -
Stitch wrdth
control 3 to 5
@
I234
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Top thread tension
control
3
to 8
Stitch length
control
zone
orange
k,, ¸
Helpful
Start
raw
right
up
Stretch Stitch
Hints
about
of your
1/8"
seam.
inside
If you
at the edge, the fabric
and
The Stitch
position
overcasting
corner
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
the
stitches
will
will
and Its Uses
Sew on stretch
the
you might
start
bunch
This
4
become
stitch
top stitch
fabrics in any area that
use a zigzag stitch.
can be used as a decorative
as well.
tangled,
Stretch Stitch
A:
A: Zigzagtoot
The Stitch
Thts
and Its Uses
z_gzag variation
garment
Zigzag toot
is very
construction
raw edges ot any sewing
and
useful
m
=n finishing
project.
35
o Three-Step Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 5
"1234
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 'l
Seam Fimshtng
Place
so that
the right
Stretch
A:
Stitch
Zigzag foot
_ .......
J
The Stitch
and Its Uses
The three-step zigzag is a combination
ztgzag and straight stitch. You may use
the
three-step
would
has
flatter
zigzag everywhere
use the
more
basic
strength,
than a regular
The three-step
ly useful
zigzag
elasticity,
mending
--
sewing
is
zigzag.
z_gzag stitch
patches
=sespecial*
smoothly
securely.
36
It
and
for:
--
--
you
stitch.
repairing
straight
finishing
seams.
tears.
and
Mending
(Overcasting)
the fabric
under
the edge witl
the presser foot
be slightly
hand side of the presser
work
so
the
right
inside
foot.
Guide
the
stitches
fall at the edge of the fabric.
hand
Posmon
that
the tear
the stitching
under
the
will catch
needle
both
so
sides.
o
f
Overcast
Stretch
o
Stitching
Serging
or Pine Leaf Stretch
Stitching
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
Stitch width
controI 3 to 5
-23
Top thread tension
control
2 to 6
Top thread tenslon
control 3 to 6
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
pos_tlon
2
Place
the
LEFT
Stitch
Stitch
A;
...................................
The Stitch
J
and Its Uses
The
seam
one
operation,
It
you
are
sw_mwear,
and
other
stretch.
the
!ust short
of the outsnde
Or, place
your
then
fabric
to
Place
fabnc
thin
foot
ts formed
and
sewing
a
seam
NOTE :
a 5/8"
allowance
fin=shed
m
that
sM pants
require
edges of older
overcast
to
Use
a blue
fabric
under
the
the
stitches
presser
are made
edge.
to ailow
further
stretch
needle,
which
prevents
skipped
fabric
effectively
stitches,
When
using
fabnc,
use a blue
stretch
fabric
needle
effectwely
garments
prevent
raveling,
NOTE:
can be used when
garments
be
the
so that
over the edge,
the fabric
A: Zigzag foot
Raw or worn
can
This stitch
can be used for
seam with an overcast fimsh.
maMng
edge of
after,
Zigzag toot
%
raw
J
Here's How
of the needle as shown.
so the needle pierces
seam,
.......
pos|t_on
Here's How
the
Stretch
Stitch length
control yel!ow
stretch stitch
The Stitch
and Its Uses
Use
stitch
narrow
this
heavyweight
want
when
seam that
press open
seams on
for making
you
flat.
kmts
you
do not
want
a
need
to
which
prevents
stitches.
it _s _deal for 1/4"
or on medium
to
woven
a narrow
skipped
kmt
stretch
fabrics
seam,
elastic
swim
It
where
you
Js also great
wear,
37
Set the Machine
Stitch w_dth
contro! 2 to 3
_
2
1/4"
3 4
L_ght
Weight
Fabric
Top thread tension
contro_ 2 to 6
Stitch length
control orange
zone
Heavy
Weight
Fabric
2
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
1/4"
1,
Finish
the raw edge of your
2.
Measure,
turn
NOTE.
For light
3.
the
Fotd
up your
wmght
material
hem any way you desire.
(see overcasting
page 3.5).
hem and pin.
fabrics,
(bottom
you
side
may need a double
out)
on
the
fold,
edge to
be stitched,
as shown,
leaving
t/4"
of
the
finished
on extended
edge.
hem
edge
showing.
4.
5.
38
Place
garment
stitch
should
under
After
hemming,
just catch
presser
foot
the fold
press both
in such a manner
that
straight
stitches
will
be sewn
The zigzag
of the garment.
sides of the finished
hem.
The top s_de of the garment
will
show only
the blind
stitches.
Set
the
Machine
Stitch width
control
_
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
2
2
to 3
3 4
Stitch length
control 'l
I ::_:
:::;============================
_i_:!_:_!i!ii_i!ii_!iiil;!iiii_i_i_!_'_!i
i_iill
ilii:il
_ili_!iiiii!!ii!_iiii!ii_!_'!'_
_
i:i!ili!
Stretch
Lace
A: Zigzag toot
,J
Stitch
to
adds
blouses
a fanciful,
and
feminine
lingerie.
and
pillows
become
when
trimmed
with
Turn
raw edge of fabric
5/8"=
Place
stttch
using stretch
Trim
lace
excess fabric
touch
Table
more
linens
elegant
lace.
under
underneath
blind
at least
and
top-
hem stitch.
close to stitching.
39
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
i!
141
i
llfl
I
III
i
g7
_
!!i i ii iiiiiiiiiiiill
Stitch length
control
Blue zone F:_
2
I3
1. a. Caretulfy
length
on your
b, Change
Top thread tension
0 L_'_i4
mark
the
buttonhole
garment,
to the sliding
c.
Stretch Stitch
Sliding buttonhole
Insert
foot
loot
the
so that
slider
buttonhole
foot.
control 2 to 6
2_ a. Move
the
ing running
garment
the
under
buttonhole
toward
top
mark
w_th
the
e.
NOTE:
Lower
the Stitch
Depending
upon
own
preference
may
alter
density
Density
your
m
the
within
fabric
blue
For
tess
toward
2.
For
density,
density,
turn
Coarse
shtches
lot
heavy
iabr_cs
dial.
the
dial
@
dial
Fine
st{lobes
"1 ".
more
toward
stitch
buttonhole
turn
Q
you
buttonhole
the
range on the stitch length
1.
or your
buttonholes,
the
tot
"0":
lighl
fabrics
NOTE.
Always
make
tonhole
on a scrap fabric
plan
use to
to
suitable
40
stitch
a practice
find
length.
butyou
the more
Stre_,ch S_,itch
mark
mark
(8).
on
the
on your
the presser foot.
The
markings
are engraved
Adjusting
(C) on the
markings
the top
you
garment,
mark.
you,
up
foot
the
the
(A) toward
meets the start
b. Line
with
slider
on
the
slider
m centimeters,
3.
a. Set the stitch
selector
b. Sew forward
until
front
marking
of
at
I'l
you reach
your
hole.
c. Stop
sewing
the
button-
at the left stitch.
4, a,Setthestitchselector
at
.
b.Sew4 to6 stMtches,
c. Stopsewing
attherightstitch.
F!
5. a, Setthestitchselector
at I_1
b, Sewuntilyoureach
thebackof
thebuttonhole.
c. Stopsewing
attherightstitch.
t_
6.
a, Set the stitch
selector
at
1,1
7_
Remove
hole
b, Sew 4 to 6 stttches.
opener
c. Stop sewing
at the left
stitch.
the
open
fabric
with
in your
the
and
cut
the
buttonhole
accessory
storage
box.
NOTE:
When
sliding
sewing
at the edge of fabric,
buttonhole
and sew in reverse
foot
{ _-->
set
as illustrated
_->_]-_
),
41
Fabric
Preparation:
Set the Machine
Put the top sides of the fabric
and
sew
opening.
to
the
Use the
end
of
reverse
Stitch width
control 0
together
the
zipper
to lock
2
/Zipper
3
_eeth
Zipper
the
tape
stitches.
Sew
length
at "3".
the
zipper
at "4"
opening
and top
with
stitch
thread
tension
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control 2
2
To Sew:
Reset stitch length at 2 and top
thread tension at 2 to 6.
Fold back the left seam allowance
asshown.
i parting
Top side
o! fabric
2.
Stretch Stitch
Turn under the right seam allowance to form a 1/8" fold.
4.
5.
3.
fOOt
To attach
the zipper
6.
Lower
foot
To sew on the
attach
on the zipper
The pin on the
iett hand side
o
the
zipper,
bar to the right
pins
foot.
To sew on the right
attach
presser
on the zipper
42
left side of the
the presser
foot.
side of the zipper,
bar to the
left pins
zipper
the
bottom
tape.
Sew
the
slider
Lower
through
of
on the
fold
tape to the point
top
the zipper
needle pierces
and the zipper
fabric
o
the
at the
zipper
Place the zipper teeth next to the
1/8" fold and pin in place,
presser bar to the right
foot.
so that
7.
foot:
the
pros on the zipper
side
E: Zipper
Top edge of fabric
Attach
the fold
and
the
where the
begins.
the
needle
to
hold
and raise the presser foot,
the
offabric
:::::
i'::
8. Openthez_pper.
10.Closethe zipperand turn the 11.Removethe zipper foot and
attachthepresser
barto theleft
fabrictopsideup,
9. Lowerthepresser
tootandstitch
pins on the zipper foot,
therestoftheseam.
12.
Stitch
tom
I3.
across
and
below
the
bot-
continue
to
of the zipper,
Turn
the
corner
guide
the
teeth,
as shown.
Stitch
through
zipper
foot
14.
among the
the
fabric
zipper
and
2" from
the top
of the
zipper,
15,
Lower
the
needle
into
the
fabnc
and raise the presser foot.
t6,
and
Stop about
Remove
the
basting
stitches
and
open the z_pper.
t7,
Lower
the foot
of the
seam, Make sure the'_old
and stitch
the rest
is
even,
tape.
43
_i:ii::
TwO-Point Shell Stitching
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension
control 4 to 9
Stitch length
control orange
,zone
J
Here's
I.
How
For best effect:
set the
desire.
stitch
you may
Stitch
allow
fabric
2.
The Stitch
and Its Uses
The Shell
blind
rows of
tucks.
Shell
Stitch
hem
shell stitching
stitching
can
be
by sewing
fabric.
a
Several
are called
used
shell
to
finish
to
create
hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Shell
tucking
scalloped
lingerie.
44
can
tucks
be used
on
blouses
and
the
slightly.
needle
folded
rows
to
Stretch Stitch
just
edge of the
of shell stitches,
5/8"
Stitch length
control orange
zone
2
as you
A:
when it zigzags.
space the rows
is formed
over folded
If yOU sew
tension
the
clear the
F_ Satin stitch
foot
length
need to tighten
top thread
Stretch
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
apart,
You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or
soft silky wovens in any direction,
k_
Zigzag
foot
J
This
stitch
single
overlock
can
also
stitch
be
as wetl.
used
as a
N:TNEi:sTI
Stretch Patching
Smocking
Sgt the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
i
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
2
Stitch width
control
Ii
5
3, I
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
¢-
-.
Stitch length control
yellow stretch stitch
pOSition
positton
2
The Stitch
For
and Its Uses
patching
worn
out
elbows
or
knees.
4
Stretch
Stitch
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag toot
With
the
strmght
stttch
length
stitching
at
lines
"'4",
3/8"
sew
apart
across the area to be smocked.
Knot
the
the threads
bobbin
gathers
the
evenly.
other
stitch
along
threads
end.
between
Secure
Sew
Loosen
tension
the
to
Pull
the
the threads
the
the gathering
Pull out the gathenng
NOTE:
one edge.
and distribute
at
decorative
stitches.
stitches.
top
make
thread
gathenng
easier.
45
:::Eagoting Stitch !,::
Herring
Set the Machine
Bone Stretch:
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Stitch width
control 5
i
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
2
3_
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control 0,5 to 2
posl
Here's How
!,
Fold
under
Here's How
edge 5/8"
Piace
Stretch Stitch
Pin
the
tear-away
3.
Sew
so the
toot
two
edges
backing
slowly,
needle
I/8"
guiding
catches
edge on each side.
to
paper
or
apart.
Use
fabric
this
appearance
46
and Its Uses
stitch
to
to
create
join
the
Stretch Stitch
fabrtc
the folded
A:
Zigzag
The Stitch
two
an
and add design
pieces
open
interest,
fabric
top
from
Trim
close to stitching_
prevent
foot
J
The Stitch
the
3/8"
side up,
and sew
the edge,
4
2.
Zigzag
each fabric
t_on
and press.
4
A:
Stitch Iength
control yeIIow
stretch stitch
of
work
Use
and Its Uses
as hemming
tablecloth
stitch
and draperies.
for
blankets,
raveling.
The stitch
wilt
EtasticStretchStitch
Box Stitching
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
width
1
control
Top thread tension
control
3 to 6
2
3_
3 to 5
Top thread tension
control
3 to 8
Stitch length
controt
yellow
stretch stitch
postflOl]
Stitch length
control orange
Use this
stitch
to
iota
heavy
weight
interlining.
Stretch
Stretch
Overlap
two
use this
stitch
raw
edges
to join
together
and
them.
Stitch
Stitch
A: Zigzag toot
A: Zigzag toot
Choose
this
stitch
to attach
elastic
to
garments.
1.
2.
Marl{
the elastic
quarters
the
center
these
center
back and side seams.
Place
the
middle
ot
the
the
center
of
the
under
to
into
match
foot
and stitch
sure
the
elastic
into place,
is evenly
and
front,
elastic
presser
making
distri-
buted.
47
PROBLEM
PROBABLE
Incorrect
Irregular
Breaking
Bunching
Puckering
48
Stitches
Needle
of Thread
CAUSE
CORRECTION
skze needle.
Improper
threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hote of needle plate,
Pulling fabric.
Incorrect
s_ze needle.
Choose correct size needle
Rethread machine.
tor thread
Tighten
upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide _t gently.
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
Replace
needle plate,
or polish
off
burrs
Do not pull fabric; guide _t gently.
Choose correct s_ze needle for thread
Reset needle.
Incorrect
setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
and fabrfc.
completely.
and fabric.
Reset presser fool
Upper and lower threads not drawn back
under presser foot before starting seam.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are
formed.
Incorrect
Reset thread
thread
tension.
Using two different
sizes or kinds
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft,
of thread.
tension.
Upper thread and bobbin thread
Insert new needle.
Reset presser foot.
Use underlay
of t_ssue paper.
should
be same s_ze and kind.
PROBLEM
Skipping
Breaking
PROBABLE
Fabric
Machine
Loosen
Improper
bobbin threading.
Lint m bobbin holder or hook
Thread
plate.
race,
Knocking
No_se
Thread caught
Lint tn bobbin
_n hook race.
holder or hook
thread
Replace
needle plate,
Check bobbin
Clean bobbin
race.
and fabnc.
tension.
or polish
threading,
holder and hook
Remove darning plate.
Adjust Stitch Length Control.
Place both threads back under
to stitch.
Push in the clutch.
Darning plate m place.
Stitch Length set at 0.
Thread knotted
under fabric.
Push-pull clutch ts disengaged.
not Mowng
upper
Start to stitch at a medium speed.
Rethread machine.
Loosen upper thread tension,
Choose correct size needle for thread
insert new needle.
Starting
to stitch too fast.
lmproper
threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
incorrect
size needle.
Thread
Bobbin
Jamming
Choose correct size needle for thread
Insert new needle.
Reset needle.
tncorrec[
settmg of needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Sharp eye in needle.
Nicks or burrs at hole oi needle
Breaking
CORRECTION
Incorrect
s_ze needle,
Bent or blunt needle,
Stitches
Upper
CAUSE
off
and fabric.
burrs
completely.
race.
presser foot
before
beginning
Disassemble
and clean hook race.
Clean bobbin holder and hook race.
49
::::Clean the:Bobbin: Holder i::
;< :::
To
::::
': i:::::
insure
essential
that
or knock
!
Unplug
i
i
the machine
•: :
your
parts
The bobbin
::
:
machine
operates
at
its best,
you
need
to
keep
the
clean at all times.
area can attract
loudly
if a thread
dust and tint.
Your
machine
can become
sluggish
is caught.
I
and open
the
face cover.
CAUTI
0 N!
The
light
bulb
HOT.
fingers
handle
2.
Push
bulb
the
will
Protect
bulb
when
be
your
up
Follow
and
counter-clockwise
cover plate
you
it.
turn
the
1.
Turn
off
2.
Remove
firmly
3.
Put the new
up and turning
5O
bulb
in by pushing
tt clockwise.
the power
4.
or unplug
5.
the bobbin
pulling
_t
3.
Remove
cover plate
_t toward
the bobbin.
you.
by
Brush
or vacuum the dust and lint
out of the bobbin
the
machine.
to remove
ft.
these directions:
Replace
the bobbin.
holder.
6,
Slide on the bobbin
pushing
cover plate by
it mto the grooves.
:OR ,YOU R: MACHINE;::
Oiling the Machine
Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs
f
Open face cover
two
drops
Remove
1,
Unplug
the
machine
the presser foot
2_
Remove
3.
Remove
the
remove
bobbin
cover
5.
Take
out
bobbin
and needle,
the screw
of the needle
and
the
holder
bobbin.
Lift
and remove
plate
and oil POints
as shown
below
at least once
a year, One or
of oil is sufficient.
excess oil,
otherwise
it may stain
fabrics.
up the
it,
plate.
on the left s=de
with
the large screw
driver.
4,
Remove
the needle
In
plate.
case
machine
extended
time,
is not
oil
it
Use good
quality
No other
oiling is required
Above
require
points
oiling
sewing
are
used
before
only
machine
area
for
an
sewing.
oil,
which
on this machine.
Red marks
J
6.
Use
the
feed
dogs,
holder.
cloth,
lint
brush
hook
Also
to
race
use
clean
the
and bobbin
a
soft,
dry
v
Line
up the
the
bobbin
next
to
j
red
holder
the
race, as shown
marks
and place
so the knob
stopper
in the
fits
hook
above.
51
PARTS LIST
1
2
3
4
7
8
9
lO
14
15
/
/
52
5
6
12
16
All
parts
listed
herein
may
be ordered
from
any Sears Roebuck
and Co. store
Ref, No.
or service center.
WHEN ORDERING
INFORMATION:
1.
2.
3.
4.
REPAIR
PARTS,
handling.
to
GIVE THE
FOLLOWING
PART NUMBER
PART DESCRIPTION
MODEL NUMBER
NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked
transmitted
ALWAYS
a
Sears
Repair
locally,
Parts
your
Distribution
order
will
Center
Part No.
1
*20-6868
2
102403202
Spool
3
813404013
No.
11 Stretch
fabric
needles
6551
No.
11 Single
needles
(ORG)
6552
No,
14 Single
needles
(RED)
6553
No,
16 Single
needles
(PUR)
6554
No.
18 Single
needles
(GRN}
be electronically
for
expedited
Description
Bobbin
box with
pin felt
4
652806003
Straight
5
685502008
Zigzag foot
6
825813005
Sliding
7
823803006
Zipper
8
822804118
Satin
9
*6864
10
6797
11
820832005
12
13
41669
802424004
14
6830
15
*6889
16
652802OO9
* These items
instructions
are not furnished
(BLU)
foot
buttonhole
foot
foot
stitch
Needle
L}ght
10 bobmes
foot
threader
bulb
Large screw driver
Small
Lint
screw driver
brush
Buttonhole
opener
Oil and lint
brush
Darning
with
plate
the machine,
but
may be ordered
per
above,
53
INDEX
A
H
Accessory storage box ...............
Appliqueing ....................
2, 8
23, 32
Hand wheel ....................
Herring bone stretch ..............
Hook race .....................
3, 18
26, 46
51
B
Bar tacking ....................
Base .............................
Basic zigzag .....................
Blind hemming ...............
Bobbin .............
4, 15_16,
Bobbin holder ..............
Bobbin thread ...................
Bobbin winding ..................
Bobbin winding spindle .............
Box stitching ...................
Buttonhole
.................
Buttonhole opener ..........
4,
Button sewing ..................
C
Cabinet ..........................
Changing needle ...................
Changing presser foot .............
Cleaning hook race and feed dogs
Cornering guide ..................
23, 32
2
23, 30
23, 38_39
50, 52_53
16, 50"_51
18_-t9
15
2, 15
25, 47
26, 40_4!
41,52"_53
23, 34
.......
2
14
t0_11
51
27
D
Darning ......................
Darning plate ......
4, 28, 29, 33_34,
23, 29
52_53
E
Elastic stretch ..................
Embroidery ....................
Extension table ...................
25, 47
23, 33
2, 8
F
Fabric, needle, thread and stitch
length chart ....................
Face cover plate .............
Fagoting ........................
Feed dogs ........................
Foot control .....................
Free arm sewing ..................
54
14
2, 6, 50"-51
25, 46
5t
3, 5
8_9
L
Lace work ......................
Large screw driver ..............
Light and power switch ..............
Light bulb ..................
Lint brush ...................
39
4, 52_53
3, 5
50, 52"_53
4, 52_53
M
Monogramming
.................
23, 33
N
Needle
Needle
Needle
Needle,
Needle
.................
clamp ....................
plate .....................
thread and fabric chart
threading
................
13_14,
.........
52_53
3, 14
2, 16
14
17_18
O
Oiling ..........................
Overcasting stitch ..................
Overcast stretch .................
51
35
24, 37
P
Parts list
......................
52"--53
Performance
problems
.............
Plug connector
....................
Portable case ......................
48"_49
3, 5
2
Power switch
.....................
Practical stitch chart
..............
Pressure control
dial .................
3, 5
23_26
6
Presser foot ..................
Presser foot lever
..................
Push-pull clutch
..................
3, I0_12
3, 7
3, 15
R
Reverse stitch control ...........
Rick-rack stretch stitching ..........
2, 22, 27
23, 35
S
Satin stitch foot ....................
.........
4, 12, 24, 26, 31"_33, 44, 52_53
Satin stitching .................
26, 31
Seam guides ....................
27
Serging .......................
24, 37
Serging or pine leaf stretch ..........
24, 37
Sewing light .......................
5
Shell stitching
..................
24, 44
Sliding buttonhole foot ..............
...............
4, 12, 26, 40_41,52_53
Small screw driver .............
4, 52_53
Smocking .....................
24, 45
Snap-on button ..................
3, t0
Spool pin felt ...............
4, 7, 52_53
Spool pins .......................
2, 7
Stitch length control ..............
2, 21
Stitch selector ..................
3, 20
Stitch width control ...............
2, 21
Straight stitching
.............
23, 27_29
Straight stitch foot.,,
4, 11, 23, 27_29, 52_53
Straight stretch stitching
...........
23, 29
Stretch patching .................
25, 45
Stretch stitch adjuster ..............
3, 21
T
Take-up lever ....................
Thread cutter .....................
Thread guide ..................
Three-step zigzag ................
Topstitching
...................
Top thread ....................
Top thread tension ...............
Top thread tension control ........
Turning a square corner ..............
Two-point shell stitching ...........
2, 17
2, 7
2_3, 17
24, 36
23, 28
17_20
19_20
2, 19_20
27
25, 44
Z
Zigzag
• _,
Zigzag
Zigzag
Zipper
Zipper
foot .........................
1t, 23"-26, 30, 32, 34_39, 44"_47, 52"53
stitching
..............
23, 30_35
overcasting ..................
35
application
............
23, 42_43
foot .......
4, 12, 23, 42"43, 52_53
WARRANTY
()
(_
FULL
25-YEAR
WARRANTY
For 25 years from
in the mechanical
the
ON SEWING
date of purchase,
components
MACHINE
Sears will,
of the sewing
_
HEAD
free of charge,
machine
repair
defects
in material
or workmanship
which
appear
head.
#
FULL
_)
For
TWO YEAR
two
years
appear m the
speed control.
WARRANTY
from
the
electrical
ON ELECTRICAL
date
of
equipment
purchase,
of
EQUIPMENT
Sears wiIt,
the
sewing
free of
machine,
OF SEWING
charge,
including
repair
MACHINE
defects
electronic
in materml
components,
or workmanship
motor,
w_rmg,
which
switch
and
#
FULL
90-DAY
#
For
_)
necessary
90
days
WAR RANTY
from
the
ON ALL
date
of
PARTS
AND
purchase,
Sears will,
of the sewing
machine,
for proper
operation
SERVICE
IS AVAILABLE
MECHANICAL
free of
except
ADJUSTMENTS
charge,
for normal
replace
any parts
and prowde
mechanical
service
maintenance.
#
#
#
WARRANTY
{_
CENTER!DEPARTMENT
_)
#
This warranty
_)
IN THE
gwes you specific
BY
UNITED
RETURNING
THE
SEWING
legal r_ghts, and you may a_so have other
SEARS,
MACHINE
TO THE
rights whmh
vary from
NEAREST
SEARS
SERVICE
€
STATES.
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., D/8t7
WA, Hoffman
Estates,
state to state_
IL 60179
{)
#
SEWING MACHINE
Now
that
or service,
you
have purchased
simply
contact
your
your
Kenmore
nearest
Sewing
Sears Service
Machine,
Center.
should
a need ever exist for repair
Be sure to provide
all pertinent
facts
parts
when
you call or visit,
:l'he model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature
plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
WHEN ORDERING
REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS
*MODEL
*NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION
NUMBER
if the
parts you
Repair
Parts Distribution
need
are not
Center
SEARS,
S-385
stocked
locally,
GIVE THE FOLLOWING
your
order
wil!
INFORMATION:
be electronically
transmitted
to a Sears
for handling.
ROEBUCK
AND
CO,, Chicago,
IL60684
Printed in Taiwan
U.S.A.
Part No, 652800306
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