Kenmore Sewing Machine 385 Users Manual
3851584180 3851584180 KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE - Manuals and Guides L0903800 View the owners manual for your KENMORE KENMORE SEWING MACHINE #3851584180. Home:Laundry & Garment Care Parts:Kenmore Parts:Kenmore KENMORE SEWING MACHINE Manual
KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Manual L0903800 KENMORE Mechanical Sewing Owner's Manual, KENMORE Mechanical Sewing installation guides
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2015-01-24
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Page Count: 58
OWNER'S MANUAL
: SEWING MACHINE
MODEL 385. 1584180
: :: :: :: i::::!:::ii::_:i!:::::::::!_!:i::!:::i_I:Iii:!:i:!i_:!_:!i:i::i_
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are glven on threading, tension adiustments0 cleaning, oiting, etc. This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record m space provided below the model number and seriai
number of this appliance. The modei number and serta! number
are Located on the nomenclature prate, as identified on Page 3 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385, Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL tS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE,
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION
SECTION
SECTION
I. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable case or Cabinet is Available ............. 2
Locate and Identify the parts .................. 2_3
Indentify the Accessories .......................... 4
2, PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_9
o Plut in the machine and Switch on the Power ......... 5
oFoot Control Use ....................... 5
oSet the Pressure Dial ..................... 6
oSetting Spool Pins .................... 7
oAdiust the Presser Foot Lever .................. 7
- Thread Cutter ............................ 7
a Accessory Storage Box ...................... 8
o Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table 8_9
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do .......... 10_12
oCheck Your Presser Foot ..................... 10
Change the Presser Foot .................... 10
o Presser Foot Types ..................... 11_12
Choose Your Needle and Thread .............. 13_t4
o Check Your Needle ......................... t3
oFabrtc, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart .... 14
o To Change Your Needle ..................... 14
Prepare the Bobbin .......................... 15_16
6 To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine ........ 15
a Wind the Bobbin ....................... 15
e Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder ......... 16
Prepare Your Top Thread .................. 17"20
oThread Your Needle ......................... 17
o Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ................. 18
oAdjust the Top Thread Tension .............. 19_20
Stitch Selector ............................. 20
Stitch Width Control ........................ 21
Stitch Length Control ...................... 21
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................ 21
Reverse Stitch Control ................... 22
Starting To Sew ............................. 22
3° LEARN THE STITCHES
Practica] Stitch Chart ...................... 23"_26
Straight Stitches .......................... 27_29
oStraight Stitch ........................... 27
a Use the Seam Gutdes ...................... 27
o Turn a Square Corner ...................... 27
o Use the Darning Plate .................... 28
oTopstitchmg ............................ 28
Darning ............................... 29
Straight Stretch ............................. 29
Zigzag Stitches .................... 30_37
• Basic Zigzag ............................. 30
o Satin Stitch ......................... 31
oApplique ............................. 32
oBar Tacking ......................... 32
oMonogramming ......................... 33
oEmbroidery ........................... 33
o Sew a Button ............................ 34
oOvercasting Stitch ....................... 35
oRick-Rack Stretch ....................... 35
e Three-Step Zigzag ....................... 36
o Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 37
e Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ 37
Blind Hemming ............................ 38
Lace Work ................................. 39
Buttonhole Making ........................ 40"_41
Sew in a Zipper ........................ 42"43
Shell Stitching ............................. 44
Two-Point Shell Stitching ..................... 44
Smocking ................................. 45
Stretch Patching ............................ 45
Fagoting Stitch ............................ 46
Herring Bone Stretch ........................ 46
Elastic Stretch Stitch ......................... 47
Box Stitching .............................. 47
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When ......................... 48"--49
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replace the Light Bulb ....................... 50
Clean the Bobbin Holder ...................... 50
Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs ............. 51
Oiling the Machines .......................... 51
PARTS LIST ...................................... 52_53
INDEX ............................................ 54_55
A fuN-line of sewing cabinets is available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another option • , _ buy a Carrying Case ._ , then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-
where.
J
J
: ::locate: anaiiaentify: ttle Parts::i
Upper Thread Guide
Take-up Lever
Top Thread Tension
Control
Face Cover Piate
Thread Cutter
Needie Plate
Thread Spool Pins
Bobbin Winding Spindle
Width Control
Stitch Length Control
Reverse Stitch Con trol
\
\\
\\\ Extension Tabte
\,\ (Accessory storage box)
2
Arm Cover Plate
Hand Wheel
Push*Pull Clutch
Stitch Selector /_
Stretch Stitch Adiuster .t .JSll
L_ght and . j
Power Sw_tch _-,
Plug Connector
\\\
Carrying Handle
/
i
!/
Free Arm
-., Nomenclature Plate
Presser Foot ,.
Snap-on Button
Foot Control
Bobbin Buttonhole opener Needle set Lint brush
Darning plate Large screw driver Small screw drwer
\
JSpool pin teft
Zipper foot Stra3ght
stitch foot --% Sliding /"
buttonhole toot /
Set Up the Machine
Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
Power supply plug
Power
swlIch
\
NOTE.
PIug
connector
Machine
plug
Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power sw_tch is
OFF
I, Check your outlet to be sureitis a 110to !20
Volt AC outlet.
2, Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
outlet, as shown. It will only fit one way.
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
Sewmg ligh! Power swltch %
4. Push the light and power switch to turn
on the power and sewing light.
SAFETY FEATUR E:
Your machine wil! not operate unless the
lighttpower switch is turned on. If you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power switch to prevent injury to
children.
o Foot Control Use
Fool c/ontro!
J
The foot control regulates the speed at
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your toot.
To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
sure slightly,
NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and
win increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewmg speed to
your taste and needs,
SetUp the MaChine:i:I(Continued)
= Set the Pressure Dial
f
Pressure
control
dial Setting
mark
Groove
J
The pressure control dial is located inside the face cover plate.
Set the dial aligning the setting marl{ on the dial with the groove as follows.
3 ..... most sewing
2 ..... applique and Cut-Outwork
1 ..... basting, sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and other lightweight fabrics.
Also for velours and knits (with more stretch).
NOTE: The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure, so
the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use
it.
o Setting Spool Pins
Spool pln felt-_._O
Spool pin
The spool pins are used for holding the
spools of thread in order to feed thread to
the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pros. Place the
spool felt on the pros. Push down for
storage.
o Adjust the Presser Foot Lever
f
Normal up _--
pos_llon l
Hi l,\i ( positron
"'- Presser toot
lever
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your
presse r foot.
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal
up position for easy removal of the presser foot or
to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser
foot
= Thread Cutter
Tuh[rteeard
You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the
thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
handy thread cutter.
The threads are cut the proper length for
starttng the next seam.
7
= Accessory Storage Box
The lid of the accessory storage box lifts
open toward you,
Sewing accessories are conveniently located
m the box,
8
oFree-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
To remove:
To Remove the Extension TabLe
(for free-arm sewing)
1.
2_
Grip the table with your index finger and thumb,
as shown.
Pull gently toward you,
The extension table will snap out.
To Attach:
Extension table
To Attach the Extension TabJe
(for flat-bed sewing)
t. Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown.
2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.
Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing.
This feature makes sewing easy for:
J
Bar tacking to reinforce pockets, plackets
and waistlines on ready-made or home-
made garments to avoid fabric bunching
around the needle.
* Stitchingsleeves,wmstbands,pant
oranycirculargarmentarea.
J
_egs, Darning socks or mending knees, e_bows,
or areas of wear in children's clothes.
* Sawing buttons on sleeves, waistbands,
etc.
__o : c:,:.::_::_:-i _:/ :::: ::=,,--:-:::::!_,:_:;:_>: ¸, .::_:-: :_ _ :_: :_:.
;i::iKnow What the Presser Feet Will Do
oCheck Your Presser Foot
The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine, You need to know
what each foot does in order to use them effectively.
Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder, Each presser foot merely
snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed.
tf you need to remove or attach the foot holder, here is what you do:
o Change the Presser Foot
Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. Consult the
Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various
presser feet.
To Remove:
holder
screw
To Remove:
Turn the screw toward the back of
the machine. Use the large screw
driver.
To Attach:
To Attach:
1. Match the hole in the foot
holder with the threaded hole in
the presser bar.
2. Fit the foot holder screw into
the hole.
3. Tighten the screw by turning it
toward you.
To Snap Off:
f
k__.
, J
To Snap Off the Presser Foot:
Snap-on
button \
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel
toward you.
2, Raise the presser foot.
3. Press the snap-on button on the back of the foot holder. The presser
foot will drop off.
10
To Snap On the Presser Foot:
t. Place the presser foot so the hori-
zontal pin on the foot lies iust
under the groove of the foot
holder,
2. Lower the presser foot holder to
lock the presser foot in place.
NOTE: If you do not hear the
presser foot snap m place,
press down on the presser
foot holder firmly until you
hear the snap.
• Presser Foot Types
Zigzag Foot
A: Zigzag toot
Use this foot for
stitching.
Uses:
both straight and zigzag
Zigzag stitching (see page 3_0),
Bar tacking (see page 32),
Button sewing (see page 3_44),
Overcasting stitch (see page 3__5),
Rick-rack stretch (see page 35),
Three-step zigzag {see page 36),
Serging (see page 37),
Overcast stretch (see page 3__7),
Blind hemming (see page 38),
Lace work (see page 40),
Two-point shell stitching
(see page 44),
Smocking (see page 455),
Stretch patching (see page 45__),
Fagoting (see page 46),
Herring bone stretch (see page 4_6),
Elastic stretch (see page 47),
Box stitching (see page 47).
Strmght Foot
f
H: Straight toot
Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching
using center needle position only.
Uses: Straight stitching (see page 2__7),
Topstitching {see page 2_88),
Straight stretch (see page 29).
11
_/:KnowWilatthe Preset Feet Will: Do (Continued)
o Presser Foot Types (Continued)
Sliding ButtonhoJe Foot
Sliding buttonhole toot
_ J
Use this foot for buttonholes of built in
system, It is marked to measure your
buttonholes accurately.
Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 40).
i!ii¸ililiiii!i!i!il!iiiii!!iiiiiiiiiiiiii¸,¸iilillii!ilili!iiiiiiiii!
Zipper Foot
(-
E: Zipper foot
This foot can be set to sew on each side of
your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the
zipper and keep the seam straight.
Uses: Zipper application {see page 4_2_2),
Satin Stitch Foot
F: Satin stitch foot
Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and
outlining applique,
Usesz Satin stitch (see page 31),
Applique (see page 32),
Monogramming (see page 33),
Shell stitching (see page 43).
12
_,_----dfm===_
,M--,
_t ......
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.
In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:
Blue {11) .......... for stretch fabrics
for lightweight fabrics
for medium or medium-heavy weight tabrics
for medium-heavy weight and decorative
topstitchmg on these fabrics
(This needle has a larger thread hole for
thicker topstltching thread,)
Green {18) .......... for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top-
stitching on these fabrics
Orange {11) ..........
Red {14) ...........
Purple (16) .........
oCheck Your Needle
1, Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks
and silk-Like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong,
smooth and consistent in thickness.
13
oFabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
FABRIC
Lightwmght:
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
Batiste0 Dimttyo Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace. Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta° Voile,
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
Percate, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Kmts.
Vinyl Su_tmgs= Lmen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Demm_ Woot,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel=
Gabardine, Velvets,
Lea ther
Heavy Weight:
Coatings, Upholstery
Cotton Ducks Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorat=ve top-stitching
on all types of fabr=c
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Kmts,
Nyton Tricot, Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Cite Tricot
11-ORANGE
14-RED
14-RED
or
16*PURPLE
18-GREEN
THREAD SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
50 Mercerized CottOn
Mercerized Heavy-Duty
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
2
(12 stitches per
inch)
2--2.5
(10-12 stitches
per *rich )
2--3
(8-!0 stitches
per Lnch)
3
(8 stretches per
mch)
,6-PURPLE!
18-GREEN !
t t -B LUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
Buttonhole Twist 3--4
(6-8 stitches
[Use as top thread on_y) per inch)
Polyester Core/Cotton 2--2.5
Wrap (10-12 stitches
50 Mercerized Cotton per inch)
t4
To Change Your Needle
Flat
stale
away
from
you
Needle clamp screw
NOTE : Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-
tion by turning the hand wheel toward
you,
t. Loosen the needle cfamp screw by turning tt
toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling tt downward.
3. insert the new needle into the needle clamp
with the flat side away from you.
4. Push the needle up as tar as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the
large screwdriver from your accessory storage
box.
Prepare the Bobbin
o To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine
!. Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide
it towards you.
2. Set aside.
3. Lift out the bobbin, as shown.
o Wind the Bobbin
Bobbin winding spindle
Clutch
1. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction
sh own.
2. Pull the clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you
wtnding the bobbin.
3o Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown.
4. Place the threaded bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle so that the thread comes
out on top.
5. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it elicks_
6. Holding onto end of thread, depress the foot control.
7. When the bobbin is slightly filled, stop the machine and clip the thread coming from
the bobbim
8. Slowly start the machine again and wind the thread until the bobbtn stops.
9. Push the bobbin wlnder spindle to the left and clip the thread.
10. Remove the bobbin.
11. Push in the clutch for normal sewing operation.
15
=Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder
f _ F
®
........................ J
1, Put the bobbin into the bobbin
holder so that the thread feeds
counter-cfockwJse (left).
®
2. Pu_l about 4 inches of thread
toward you through the tension
slot _.
"x F
®
3. Then pull the thread clockwise
toward the back of the machine
through the slot
4. Slide the bobbin cover plate while
pushing it down slightly over the
bobbin. Atlow about 4 inches of
thread to show above the needle
plate.
16
Prepare Your Top Thread
ThreadYour Needle
The numbered steps above follow the numbers
on the illustrations.
Dotted lines show places where the thread
loops and then ts pulled tight.
f
Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.
Raise presser foot tever.
Place spool on spool pln as shown, w_th thread coming from the back of the spool.
1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.
k., j
2.
3_
4.
5.
6.
NOTE:
While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the
check spring holder.
Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
Draw thread down and slip It through the thread guide.
Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide.
Thread needle from front to back.
You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
17
:ii::iPr_p_ _ou_::TOpTh:readii_(cOntinued):
=Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
f
,, J
1. Rinse presser foot _ever. Hold
needle thread loosely in left hand
and rotate handwheel toward
you one complete turn.
,j
2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling
top th read,
3.
J
Pull both threads under and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving 4
to 6 inches of thread clear.
18
Adjust the Top Thread Tens=on
Top side ol labrlc
ll_read " _w-
Setting mark
Tighlen
For Straight Stitch
The _deal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail.
If you look at the stttch, front and back, you wilt notice that there are no
gaps, that each stttch is smooth and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
thread.
Choose the Correct Tensmn:
The best tension will depend on;
the stiffness and thtckness of the fabric
the number of fabric layers
the type of stitch
The top thread
_s too loose_
Top s_de
ol fabric
The top thread
appears on the
underside ot the
tabr_c.
,G
k_
Tension Is too loose:
The top thread shows through the
bottom ot the fabnc. The bottom side
ot the stitch will feet bumpy.
The lop thread
_s too t_ght
Top stde
ot la
The bobbin thread
appears on the
upper sur|ace ol the
fabric_
, ,, J
Tension _stoo t_ght:
The bobbin thread will come through
the top of the fabric. The top side of
the stitch will feel bumpy.
19
For Zigzag Stitch
In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side
of fabric and the top threads will show siightly on the bottom side. See
below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top
tensi on.
Top tension
Too Tight
Top stde of Fabric
Bottom side of Fabric
Too Tigh t:
-- Corner ot each
zigzag will pull
together on the
top side of fabrics.
2O
Top tension
Too Loose
iiiiii!!i!i!
Top side of Fabric
i!iiiiiiiiiii i!iliiiii iii!i
Bottom side of Fabric
Too Loose:
The top thread
will loop through
bottom s_de of
tabrtc and will be
pulled almost
together.
Just Right
Top side of Fabric
Bottom side of Fabric
Just Right:
Mimmize the amount
of top thread vtsibfe on
the bottom side of
fabric without causing
excessive puckering or
causing the bobbin
thread to show on the
top side. Results vary
with _abrlc, thread and
sewing conditions,
:_Stitch Selector
Red
indicator
......... J
The stitch selector control determines the stitch you select.
Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator
on the stitch indicator panel. The bottom row of stitches is selected when the
stitch length control is set at the stretch stitch position,
NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of
fabric when selecting a stitch.
Stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch length
control.
ZONES
Orange ........
Green ..........
Blue ..........
Yellow ........
Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches
Geometric Decorative Stitches
Buiit4n Buttonhole Making
Stretch Stitches
Stitch Width Control
V Widtl_
.........J
The stitch width control regulates the
width of the stitch you select.
The higher the number, the wider the
stitch.
Stitch Length Control
VLength
Stretch SIIlch
,,)
The stitch length control regulates the
length of stitch, and also has a stretch
stitches setting.
The higher the number, the longer the
stitch.
0 means no feed.
To seiect Stretch Stitches, set this
controt at Stretch Stitch.
NOTE: When you select built4n
buttonhole (blue), make sure
that you do not set the stitch
lengh control at "Stretch
Stitch"-
Study the orange, yellow
and blue sections around
this control. These are
recommended zones of
stitch length and color-coded
to the stitches pictured on
the stitch indicator panei.
....Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance
4- V
h
<
Smocking stretch
Riekrack stretch
tn stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch
adjuster should usually be m a neutral
position (between '%" and "--", or
position}. When sewing some fabrics, you
may need to adjust this control to
balance the stitches for appearance sake.
If destgn seems open like the illustrations
to the left, adjust the control slightly
toward "'--" until design looks like the
center design.
tf the design appears to be closed as in
the right hand illustrations, turn the
control toward "+" until stitching is as
you desire.
21
Reverse
',,,, j
To reverse stitch, hold down this con-
trol during sewing.
Release to sew forward again.
_: Starting To Sewii:
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine,
you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habrts to follow
each time you stt down to sew:
1. Inspect the needle, It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size
for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new
fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
2. Before plamng the materral on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4
inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the
seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust
the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric.
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and
the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a slmpte
seam.
5_ Run the machine at a stow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the
machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
7, Always fimsh sewing each seam w_th the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric tn such a way
that the normal feeding is altered.
9, When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn tt toward you.
22
PracticalStitchChart
Thread Stitch Stitch
Stitch Needle Tension Length Width Uses
Orange 0 Regular searms, zippers, topstitching, darmng,
Zone etc.
STRAIGHT
1
I
I
I
J
STRAIGHT
STR ETCH
ZIGZAG
RICK*RACK
STRETCH
BLIND HEM
STITCH
Stitch
Selection Foot and Other Attach.
Stra=ght
I
I
1
t
IIi
III
III
Ul
DarMng Zipper
p_ate foot
Strmght
Zigzag
Check
Chart
on p. t4
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Check
Chart
on p. 1__44
Check
Chart
on p_14
Check
Chart
on p. 14
2_6
2 _ 6 Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Posit}on
3 _ 8 Orange
Zone
2 _ 6Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Postt_on
2 ~ 6 Orange
Zone
o
t~5
2_5
2~3
Use on knits and other stretch fabrtcs, good
for topstitching.
Fimsh edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique,
monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks.
Decorate garments with one row or several
Use for fimshing seams.
Refer to Page
27 _ 29,
42 _ 43
29
30 _35
I
35
38
23
Stitch Stitch I ....
Stitch Thread Length Width iuses tterer to t_age
Stitch Selection Needle Tension
OVERCAST
STRETCH
THREE-STEP
ZIGZAG
SMOCKING
STITCH
SHELL
STITCH
SERGING
<
p
4
i
d
t
I
Foot and Other Attach,
Zigzag
%
Zigzag
%
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Check
Chart
on p.L4
2_6
2_6
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
0.5_ 1
3_5 Use for swlmwear0 ski pants and other
garments that require stretch.
IUse for fimshing seams.
Zigzag Check
Chart
on p. 14
%
Sat_n Check
Chart
on p. 14
%
2_6 Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
3_5
Zigzag Bfue (11 )
on p. 14
4_9 Orange
Zone
Use m smocking or as a decorative stitch.
3_ 5 Finish hems, sleeve and neck opemngs.
Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to
overcast and seam,
Do shetl tucking on blouses and lingerie.
3~6 Yelfow
Stretch
Stitch
Pos_t_on
3~5 Fimsh hems, sleeve and neck openings,
Use on nylon tricot and other linger=e to
overcast and seam.
DO shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
37
36
45
44
37
24
Stitch
Stitch Selection
BOX
STITCHING
ELASTIC
STR ETC H
/
FAGOTING
STRETCH
PATCHING
(\ <>
<>
(q <>
TWO-POINT SHELL
ST| TCH IN G
L> L>
r_> C>
Foot end Other Attach, Needle
Zigzag Check
Chart
(_ on p. 14
Zigzag Check
Chart
on p. 1_4
%
Zigzag Check
Chart
on p. 14
%
Zigzag Check
Chart
on p. 14
%
Check
Chart
on p. 14
Zigzag
%
Thread Stitch
Tension Length
3 _ 8 Orange
Zone
3 _ 6 Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Pos_tton
3 ~ 8 0.5 ~ 2
2 _ 6 Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
3 --8 Orange
Zone
i
Stitch
Width
3_5
3_5
5
Uses
Use tot ovedappmg seams.
i
Use for apptymg elastic.
Join two folded edges for decorative
open*work appearance.
Use for patchwork quilting.
Do shet_ tucking on blouses and fingene.
Th_s stitch can also be used as a single
overiock stitch as welt.
Refer to Page
47
47
46
45
44
25
: iP'ractic_i:_s_itc_Cha_i:: iContinued): i;
Stitch
HERRING BONE
STRETCH
/\
BUTTONHOLE
SATIN STITCH
Stitch
Selection Foot and OtherAttach,
Zigzag
D
Thread Stitch Stitch
Needle Tension Length Width
2-6 3_5Check
Chart
on p. 14
Check
Chart
onp, 1_4
2~6
Yellow
Stretch
Stitch
Position
3~5
Uses Refer to Page
Use as hemming stitch for blankets, table- 46
cloth end draperms,
Blue Zone Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes. 40 ~ 41
Satin Check
Chart
on p. 14
3_8 0.5-- 1Use for applique work, also as decorative
fimsh for placematso blanketso collars,
cuffs and pockets.
31
26
Straight Stitches
o Straight Stitch
fSat the Machine
Stitch w=dth
control 0
Top thread tens|on
control 2 to 6
H: Straight foot
NOTE:
Stitch length
control orange
zone
Stretch Stitch
Best sewmg results are
obtained with the straight
stitct! foot, but the zigzag
foot wilt also provide
acceptable results.
/
Before sewing with the straight stitch
foot, always set the stitch width
control to 0 to avoid breaking the
needle.
t. Raise the presser foot,
2. Rmse the needle to its highest
posit{on,
3. Place the edge of the fabric next
to a stitching guide tine on the
needle plate (5/8" is most
common).
4. Draw the threads toward the back
and lower the presser foot.
5. Press the foot control
6. Hold the fabnc loosely and gently
guide it along the guide line, so
that It feeds naturally.
Do not force the fabric or try to
pul{ it tight.
I
I
7. At the beginning and end of
seam, you may want to reverse to
lock the stitch,
8. Rmse the presser foot and remove
the fabric.
9. Cutthe threads.
= Use the Seam Guides
._/ Cornering guide J
The seam guides on the needle plate
are engraved to help you measure seam
wtdth, The lines are 1/8" apart, with
the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
•Turn a Square Corner
To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge:
1. Stop stitching and lower the
needle by turning hand wheel
toward you when the fabric edge
facing you lines up with the
cornermg guide, as shown.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn
the fabric to line the edge with
the 5/8" seam guide.
3. Lower the presser foot and begin
st{tching m the new direction.
27
'_;_:i':i_:_ii_!::!:!:i:i_;;:;:ii_::;:!i_i:i:!_:_!,:!:i iiii:i:_,_;_:_/i_::: :,i:x _!_!_!' ::!W •
=Use the Darning Plate
Darning pfate
\
J
Sometimes when you sew, you want to contro] the fabric yourself.
The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric.
To Put on the Darning Plate:
NOTE. The rectangular holes m the Darning Plate match the holes in the
needle plate. In the darning pfate, these holes are siightty to the
right of center.
1. Position the darning plate with the pins on the bottom.
2. Fit the darning plate pros into the needle plate holes at the
5/8" mark. The feed dogs witt show through the darning plate
holes.
Use the darning plate in the fotlowing ways;
Darning (see page 2_99),
Button Sewing (see page 34),
Topstltchi ng
Set the Machine
Stitch wsdth
control 0
top thread tension
controt 2 to 6
H: Straight foot
Stitch tength
control Orange
zone
4
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Topstitchmg emphasizes the lines of
your garment and keeps seams and
edges flat and crisp.
Accent suits or blouses with one or
two rows of topst_tchmg around the
outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars,
Here's How
1.
2.
3_
Lower the presser foot.
Keep the edge of the fabric next
to the right edge of the presser
foot.
Evenly guide the fabric along this
edge to produce an even row of
topstitchmg 5/8" from the edgm
28
Darning StraightStretch
Top thread
tansloR
control
2 to6
No presser
toot
S_t the Machine
Stitch w_dth
control 0
]234
Darning plate
Stitch length
control any number
(not necessary to
adjust)
2
Stretch Stitch
Here's How
1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate
(see page 2__88).
2. Remove presser foot and foot holder
(see page 1__00), stretch fabric between
embroidery hoops with hole centered.
3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the
fabric by holding the top thread and taking
one stitch at the spot where you wish to
start darning.
4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow
speed.
5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until
you have covered the darning area.
6_ Turn the fabric half turn and sew antother
layer of stttching over the first layer.
NOTE: |f your fabric is thin or badly damaged,
use a separate piece of fabric under the
hote to reinforce it.
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning
plate and reptace foot holder and foot.
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 0
/234
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
H: Straight foot
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
position 2
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
This stitch is the stretch variation of
the straight stitch, especially develop-
ed for knits and stretch fabrics.
This stitch can also be used for
topstitching on all fabrics.
Stretch stitching was developed
to be used on stretch fabrics and
knits, It can be used on other
fabrics as well. It works well on
curved seams and on any
garments that will receive a great
deal of strain {ie. children's
cloth es)o
The stretch stitch does not
actually stretch as it is being
sewn, but ts stitched in a
forward and back motion
(sometimes called a "reverse-
action" stitch}, so that it will
give when the fabric stretches
instead of breaking,
29
BasicZigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch wtdth
control ito 5
't 234
Top thread tension Stitch length
control 3 to 8control orange
Zone 2
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
.............. J
The Stitch and its Uses
The zigzag stttch _s one of the most
common and most versatile stitches on
your machine. It can be a utility stitch
for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem-
mmg, overcasting, mending and darn*
ing. _t can also be used to decorate
with trims, appliques and cut-out work
or as a decorative stitch°
30
Here°s How
There are many ways to sew a ztgzag stitch.
Consutt the specific variations for detaited directions.
Satin Stitch page 31,
Applique Work page 3_2,
Bar Tacking page 32,
Monogramming page 33.
Embroidery page 3_3,
Button Sewing page 34,
Overcasting page 35.
SatinStitch
Set the Machine
Top thread
tension
control 3 to 8
Stitch width
contro! 2 to 5
i2 3 .
@
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
Stretch Stitch
F: Satin stitch
toot
Pressure dial: I or
The Stitch and Its Uses
The Satin stitch is aversatile and often
used decorat=ve stitch, but It can also
be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex-
ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths
and napkins),
-The Satin stitch is especially attractive
in applique.
Zigzag width :
C!ose to 0
....... 4_' ...... : TF
Here's How
Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragment
of the fabric you are planning to use. Too t_ght satin stitch may pucker some light
weight fabrics.
31
Stitch width
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6 Stitch length
control 0.5 to t
2
Stretch Stitch
F_ Satin stitch
foot
Pressure dial: 2
Baste {or fuse with _ron-on fabric
joiner) applique pieces on the fabric.
Stitch around the applique making
sure the needle falls along the outer
edge of the applique.
When sewing corners, lower the needle
down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and p_vot the fabric to the right
or left,
Bar Tacking
Set the Machine
Stitch w_dth
control 2 to 5
_234
@
Top thread tenston
control 2 t.o 6
A: Zigzag toot
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
2
Stretch Stitch
t: ::i : =::;; :!;i : := :!i :::
Th_s stitch ts similar to a very short
satin stitch and is used to reinforce
points of strain such as corners or
pockets and straps on linger_e.
Sew 4 to 6 z_gzag stitches.
32
Monogramming
Set the Machine
Stitcll width
control 5
i 2 34
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
F' Satin stitch
toot
Stitch length
control 0,5 to "i
4
Stretch Stitch
Here's How
1. Set the same as satin stitch,
2. Back the fabric with paper or
mterfacing.
3. Draw the letters on the fabric
with tailor's chalk.
4. Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch
width as necessary to form each
pattern.
5. If using paper, carefully remove tt
when you have finished sewing.
Embroidery
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
No presSer
foot
Stitch length controt
Any number {not
necessary to adjust)
2
Stretch Stitch
Oarmng plate
Here's How
1. Put the darning plate on the needle
plate (see page 28).
2. Remove foot holder (see page 10).
3, Adjust the stitch width as desired
(see page 2I).
4. Draw the design on to the fabric
with tailor's chalk,
.
6_
7,
8_
Stretch the fabric between embroi_
dery hoops and place under the
needle.
Lower the presser foot lever to
engage the top thread tension.
Holding the top thread in your left
hand, rotate the hand whee| toward
you one complete turn.
Put| the top thread to draw the
bobbin thread through to the surface
of the fabric.
Using a medium speed, stitch along
the marked outline, guiding the
fabric carefully by hand.
33
oSew aButton
Set the Machine
Top thread tenston
control 2 to 6
Stitch width control
Must be adiu sted
_234
Stitch length control
Any number {not
necessary to adiust )
4
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag toot
Darning pta
Use the darning plate for button sewmg (see page 28).
t.
21
3.
Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser
foot.
Adjust the stitch width so that needle wilt drop in each hole.
Lower the foot to hold the button in place.
Turn the hand wheel by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the
button.
4. Stitch several times.
,_, ,..................... J
To strengthen the shank, cut the
threads leaving a 8" tail. Bring the
needle thread down through the hole
m the button and wind it around the
shank.
Draw the thread to the bottom side
and knot,
34
Overcasting Stitch
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
A: Zigzagtoot
Stitch wrdth
control 3 to 5
I234
@
Stitch length
control orange
zone
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Thts z_gzag variation is very useful m
garment construction and =n finishing
raw edges ot any sewing project.
k,, ¸
Helpful Hints
Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the
raw corner of your seam. If you start
right at the edge, the fabric will bunch
up and the stitches will become
tangled,
0
f
Rick-Rack Stretch
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
A: Zigzag toot
Stitch width
control 2 to 5
23-
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
position
4
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that
you might use a zigzag stitch.
This stitch can be used as a decorative
top stitch as well.
35
oThree-Step Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 5
"1234
Top thread tension
control 2to 6Stitch length
control 0.5 to 'l
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
_ ....... J
The Stitch and Its Uses
The three-step zigzag is a combination
ztgzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere you
would use the basic zigzag stitch. It
has more strength, elasticity, and is
flatter than a regular zigzag.
The three-step z_gzag stitch =sespecial*
ly useful for:
-- mending
-- sewing patches smoothly and
securely.
repairing straight tears.
-- finishing seams.
36
Seam Fimshtng (Overcasting)
Place the fabric under the presser foot
so that the edge witl be slightly inside
the right hand side of the presser foot.
Guide the work so the right hand
stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
Mending
Posmon the tear under the needle so
that the stitching will catch both sides.
o Overcast Stretch Stitching
fSet the Machine
Top thread tension
control 2to 6
A; Zigzag toot
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
-23
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
pos_tlon
2
Stretch Stitch
% ................................... J
The Stitch and Its Uses
This stitch can be used for sewing a
seam with an overcast fimsh.
The seam ts formed and fin=shed m
one operation, It can be used when
you are maMng sw_mwear, sM pants
and other garments that require
stretch.
Here's How
Place the raw edge of the fabric to
the LEFT of the needle as shown.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
!ust short of the outsnde edge.
Or, place your fabnc to ailow a 5/8"
seam, then thin seam allowance
after,
Raw or worn edges of older garments
can be overcast to prevent further
raveling,
NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric
needle, which effectively
prevents skipped stitches,
o Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching
Set the Machine
Stitch width
controI 3 to 5
Top thread tenslon
control 3 to 6 Stitch length
control yel!ow
stretch stitch
pos|t_on
A: Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use this stitch when you want a
narrow seam that you do not need to
press open flat. it _s _deal for 1/4"
seams on kmts or on medium to
heavyweight woven fabrics where you
want a narrow seam, It Js also great
for making elastic swim wear,
....... J
Here's How
Place the fabric under the presser
foot so that the stitches are made
over the edge,
NOTE :When using stretch kmt
fabnc, use a blue stretch
fabric needle which
effectwely prevents
skipped stitches.
37
Set the Machine
Stitch w_dth
contro! 2 to 3
_2 3 4
Top thread tension
contro_ 2 to 6
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch length
control orange
zone 2
Stretch Stitch
L_ght
Weight
Fabric
Heavy
Weight
Fabric
1/4"
1/4"
1, Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desire. (see overcasting page 3.5).
2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin.
NOTE. For light wmght fabrics, you may need a double fold,
3. Fotd the material (bottom side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving t/4" of the finished hem edge
showing.
4. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag
stitch should just catch the fold of the garment.
5. After hemming, press both sides of the finished hem. The top s_de of the garment will show only the blind stitches.
38
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Set the Machine
A: Zigzag toot
Stitch width
control 2to 3
_234
Stitch length
control 'l
Stretch Stitch
I ::_: :::;============================
_i_:!_:_!i!ii_i!ii_!iiil;!iiii_i_i_!_'_!ii_iillilii:il _ili_!iiiii!!ii!_iiii!ii_!_'!'__
i:i!ili! ,J
Lace adds a fanciful, feminine touch
to blouses and lingerie. Table linens
and pillows become more elegant
when trimmed with lace.
Turn raw edge of fabric under at least
5/8"= Place lace underneath and top-
stttch using stretch blind hem stitch.
Trim excess fabric close to stitching.
39
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
llfl I
141 i
III i
g7 _
Stitch length
control
Blue zone F:_
2
Top thread tension 0 L_'_i4
control 2 to 6 Stretch Stitch
Sliding buttonhole loot
Adjusting the Stitch Density
Depending upon your fabric or your
own preference m buttonholes, you
may alter the buttonhole stitch
density within the blue buttonhole
range on the stitch length dial.
1. For tess density, turn the dial
toward "1 ".
2. For more density, turn the dial
toward "0":
NOTE. Always make a practice but-
tonhole on a scrap fabric you
plan to use to find the more
suitable stitch length.
40
1. a. Caretulfy mark the buttonhole
length on your garment,
b, Change to the sliding buttonhole
foot.
c. Insert the garment under the
foot with the buttonhole mark.
ing running toward you,
Q
Coarse
shtches
lot heavy
iabr_cs
@
Fine
st{lobes
tot lighl
fabrics
Stre_,ch S_,itch
i! !!i i ii iiiiiiiiiiiill
2_ a. Move the slider (A) toward you
so that the top mark (C) on the
slider meets the start mark (8).
b. Line up the markings on the
foot w_th the top mark on your
garment,
e. Lower the presser foot.
NOTE: The markings on the slider
are engraved m centimeters,
I3
3. a. Set the stitch selector at I'l
b. Sew forward until you reach the
front marking of your button-
hole.
c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
4, a,Setthestitchselectorat .
b.Sew4to6stMtches,
c. Stopsewingattherightstitch.
F!
5. a, Setthestitchselectorat I_1
b, Sewuntilyoureachthebackof
thebuttonhole.
c. Stopsewingattherightstitch.
t_
6. a, Set the stitch selector at 1,1
b, Sew 4 to 6 stttches.
c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
7_ Remove the fabric and cut the
hole open with the buttonhole
opener in your accessory storage
box.
NOTE:
When sewing at the edge of fabric, set
sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated
and sew in reverse { _--> _->_]-_ ),
41
Fabric Preparation:
Put the top sides of the fabric together
and sew to the end of the zipper
opening. Use the reverse to lock the
stitches.
Sew the zipper opening with stitch
length at "4" and top thread tension
at "3".
Top side
o! fabric
i parting
Top edge of fabric
The pin on the
iett hand side
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch width
control 0
2 3
Stitch length
control 2
2
Stretch Stitch
E: Zipper
fOOt
To attach the zipper foot:
o To sew on the left side of the zipper,
attach the presser bar to the right pins
on the zipper foot.
oTo sew on the right side of the zipper,
attach the presser bar to the left pins
on the zipper foot.
42
/Zipper _eeth
Zipper tape
To Sew:
Reset stitch length at 2 and top
thread tension at 2 to 6.
Fold back the left seam allowance
asshown.
2.
3.
Turn under the right seam allow-
ance to form a 1/8" fold.
Place the zipper teeth next to the
1/8" fold and pin in place,
4. Attach the presser bar to the right
pros on the zipper foot.
5. Lower the zipper foot on the top
side at the bottom of the zipper
so that the needle pierces the fold
and the zipper tape.
6. Sew through the fold and the
zipper tape to the point where the
slider begins.
7. Lower the needle to hold the
fabric and raise the presser foot,
8. Openthez_pper.
9. Lowerthepressertootandstitch
therestoftheseam.
offabric:::::i'::
10.Closethe zipperand turn the
fabrictopsideup, 11.Removethe zipperfoot and
attachthepresserbarto theleft
pins on the zipper foot,
12. Stitch across and below the bot-
tom of the zipper,
I3. Turn the corner and continue to
guide the foot among the zipper
teeth, as shown.
Stitch through the fabric and
zipper tape.
14. Stop about 2" from the top of the
zipper,
15, Lower the needle into the fabnc
and raise the presser foot.
t6, Remove the basting stitches and
open the z_pper.
t7, Lower the foot and stitch the rest
of the seam, Make sure the'_old is
even,
43
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension
control 4to 9 Stitch length
control orange
,zone
F_ Satin stitch
foot
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a
blind hem over folded fabric. Several
rows of shell stitching are called shell
tucks.
Shell stitching can be used to finish
hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Shell tucking can be used to create
scalloped tucks on blouses and
lingerie.
_i:ii::TwO-Point Shell Stitching
Here's How
I. For best effect:
J
set the stitch length as you
desire.
you may need to tighten the
top thread tension slightly.
allow the needle to just
clear the folded edge of the
fabric when it zigzags.
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
A: Zigzag foot
Stitch length
control orange
zone 2
Stretch Stitch
2. If yOU sew rows of shell stitches,
space the rows 5/8" apart,
k_
You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or
soft silky wovens in any direction,
J
This stitch can also be used as a
single overlock stitch as wetl.
44
Smocking Stretch Patching
N:TNEi:sTI
Sgt the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
i 2 3, I
Top thread tension
control 2to 6Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
positton
4
Stretch Stitch
¢- -.
With the stttch length at "'4", sew
strmght stitching lines 3/8" apart
across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull
the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at
the other end. Sew the decorative
stitch between the gathering stitches.
Pull out the gathenng stitches.
NOTE: Loosen the top thread
tension to make gathenng
easier.
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
A: Zigzag toot
Stitch width
control 5
Stitch length control
yellow stretch stitch
pOSition 2
Stretch Stitch
The Stitch and Its Uses
For patching worn
knees.
Ii
out elbows or
45
:::Eagoting Stitch !,::
Set the Machine
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
Stitch width
control 5
i2 3_
Stitch length
control 0,5 to 2
4
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag toot
The Stitch and Its Uses
J
Use this stitch to join two pieces of
fabric to create an open work
appearance and add design interest,
Here's How
!, Fold under each fabric edge 5/8"
and press.
2. Pin the two edges to paper or
tear-away backing I/8" apart.
3. Sew slowly, guiding the fabrtc
so the needle catches the folded
edge on each side.
Herring Bone Stretch:
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Top thread tension
control 2to 6Stitch Iength
control yeIIow
stretch stitch
posl t_on
4
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use as hemming stitch for blankets,
tablecloth and draperies.
Here's How
Piace the fabric top side up, and sew
3/8" from the edge,
Trim close to stitching_ The stitch wilt
prevent raveling.
46
EtasticStretchStitch
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
Top thread tension
control 3 to 6 Stitch length
controt yellow
stretch stitch
postflOl]
A: Zigzag toot
Stretch Stitch
Box Stitching
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
123_
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8 Stitch length
control orange
A: Zigzag toot
Stretch Stitch
Use this stitch to iota heavy weight
interlining.
Overlap two raw edges together and
use this stitch to join them.
Choose this stitch to attach elastic to
garments.
1. Marl{ the elastic into quarters and
match these to the center front,
center back and side seams.
2. Place the middle ot the elastic
under the center of the presser
foot and stitch into place, making
sure the elastic is evenly distri-
buted.
47
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Irregular Stitches
Breaking Needle
Bunching of Thread
Puckering
Incorrect skze needle.
Improper threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hote of needle plate,
Pulling fabric.
Incorrect s_ze needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back
under presser foot before starting seam.
Incorrect thread tension.
Using two different sizes or kinds of thread.
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft,
Choose correct size needle tor thread and fabrfc.
Rethread machine.
Tighten upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide _t gently.
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Do not pull fabric; guide _t gently.
Choose correct s_ze needle for thread and fabric.
Reset needle.
Reset presser fool
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are
formed.
Reset thread tension.
Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same s_ze and kind.
Insert new needle.
Reset presser foot.
Use underlay of t_ssue paper.
48
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Skipping Stitches
Breaking Upper Thread
Breaking Bobbin Thread
Fabric not Mowng
Incorrect s_ze needle,
Bent or blunt needle,
tncorrec[ settmg of needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Starting to stitch too fast.
lmproper threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
incorrect size needle.
Sharp eye in needle.
Nicks or burrs at hole oi needle plate.
Improper bobbin threading.
Lint m bobbin holder or hook race,
Darning plate m place.
Stitch Length set at 0.
Thread knotted under fabric.
Push-pull clutch ts disengaged.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabnc.
Insert new needle.
Reset needle.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Start to stitch at a medium speed.
Rethread machine.
Loosen upper thread tension,
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
insert new needle.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Check bobbin threading,
Clean bobbin holder and hook race.
Remove darning plate.
Adjust Stitch Length Control.
Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
to stitch.
Push in the clutch.
Thread caught _n hook race. Disassemble and clean hook race.
Machine Jamming Knocking No_se Lint tn bobbin holder or hook race. Clean bobbin holder and hook race.
49
! i iI
Unplug the machine and open the
face cover.
CAUTI 0 N ! The light bulb will be
HOT. Protect your
fingers when you
handle it.
2. Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb counter-clockwise to remove
ft.
3. Put the new bulb in by pushing _t
up and turning tt clockwise.
::::Clean the:Bobbin: Holder i::
;< ::: :::: ': i::::: :: •: : :
To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the
essential parts clean at all times.
The bobbin area can attract dust and tint. Your machine can become sluggish
or knock loudly if a thread is caught.
cover plate
Follow these directions:
1. Turn off the power or unplug the
machine.
2. Remove the bobbin cover plate by
firmly pulling _t toward you.
3. Remove the bobbin.
4. Brush or vacuum the dust and lint
out of the bobbin holder.
5. Replace the bobbin.
6, Slide on the bobbin cover plate by
pushing it mto the grooves.
5O
Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Oiling the Machine
:OR ,YOU R: MACHINE;::
1,
2_
3.
4,
6.
Unplug the machine and remove
the presser foot and needle,
Remove the bobbin cover plate.
Remove the screw on the left s=de
of the needle with the large screw
driver.
Remove the needle plate.
J
Use the lint brush to clean the
feed dogs, hook race and bobbin
holder. Also use a soft, dry
cloth,
f
5. Take out the bobbin. Lift up the
bobbin holder and remove it,
Red marks
v j
Line up the red marks and place
the bobbin holder so the knob fits
next to the stopper in the hook
race, as shown above.
Open face cover plate and oil POints as shown below at least once a year, One or
two drops of oil is sufficient.
Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabrics.
In case machine is not used for an
extended time, oil it before sewing.
Use good quality sewing machine oil,
No other oiling is required
Above points are only area which
require oiling on this machine.
51
PARTS LIST
12 3 4 5 6
78 9 lO 12
14 15
/
/
16
52
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co. store
or service center.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
INFORMATION:
1. PART NUMBER
2. PART DESCRIPTION
3. MODEL NUMBER
4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited
handling.
Ref, No. Part No. Description
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
*20-6868
102403202
813404013
6551
6552
6553
6554
652806003
685502008
825813005
823803006
822804118
*6864
6797
820832005
41669
802424004
6830
*6889
652802OO9
Bobbin box with 10 bobmes
Spool pin felt
No. 11 Stretch fabric needles (BLU)
No. 11 Single needles (ORG)
No, 14 Single needles (RED)
No, 16 Single needles (PUR)
No. 18 Single needles (GRN}
Straight foot
Zigzag foot
Sliding buttonhole foot
Zipper foot
Satin stitch foot
Needle threader
L}ght bulb
Large screw driver
Small screw driver
Lint brush
Buttonhole opener
Oil and lint brush
Darning plate
* These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per
instructions above,
53
INDEX
A
Accessory storage box ............... 2, 8
Appliqueing .................... 23, 32
B
Bar tacking .................... 23, 32
Base ............................. 2
Basic zigzag ..................... 23, 30
Blind hemming ............... 23, 38_39
Bobbin ............. 4, 15_16, 50, 52_53
Bobbin holder .............. 16, 50"_51
Bobbin thread ................... 18_-t9
Bobbin winding .................. 15
Bobbin winding spindle ............. 2, 15
Box stitching ................... 25, 47
Buttonhole ................. 26, 40_4!
Buttonhole opener .......... 4, 41,52"_53
Button sewing .................. 23, 34
C
Cabinet .......................... 2
Changing needle ................... 14
Changing presser foot ............. t0_11
Cleaning hook race and feed dogs ....... 51
Cornering guide .................. 27
D
Darning ...................... 23, 29
Darning plate ...... 4, 28, 29, 33_34, 52_53
E
Elastic stretch .................. 25, 47
Embroidery .................... 23, 33
Extension table ................... 2, 8
F
Fabric, needle, thread and stitch
length chart .................... 14
Face cover plate ............. 2, 6, 50"-51
Fagoting ........................ 25, 46
Feed dogs ........................ 5t
Foot control ..................... 3, 5
Free arm sewing .................. 8_9
H
Hand wheel .................... 3, 18
Herring bone stretch .............. 26, 46
Hook race ..................... 51
L
Lace work ...................... 39
Large screw driver .............. 4, 52_53
Light and power switch .............. 3, 5
Light bulb .................. 50, 52"_53
Lint brush ................... 4, 52_53
M
Monogramming ................. 23, 33
N
Needle ................. 13_14, 52_53
Needle clamp .................... 3, 14
Needle plate ..................... 2, 16
Needle, thread and fabric chart ......... 14
Needle threading ................ 17_18
O
Oiling .......................... 51
Overcasting stitch .................. 35
Overcast stretch ................. 24, 37
P
Parts list ...................... 52"--53
Performance problems ............. 48"_49
Plug connector .................... 3, 5
Portable case ...................... 2
Power switch ..................... 3, 5
Practical stitch chart .............. 23_26
Pressure control dial ................. 6
Presser foot .................. 3, I0_12
Presser foot lever .................. 3, 7
Push-pull clutch .................. 3, 15
R
Reverse stitch control ........... 2, 22, 27
Rick-rack stretch stitching .......... 23, 35
S
Satin stitch foot ....................
......... 4, 12, 24, 26, 31"_33, 44, 52_53
Satin stitching ................. 26, 31
Seam guides .................... 27
Serging ....................... 24, 37
Serging or pine leaf stretch .......... 24, 37
Sewing light ....................... 5
Shell stitching .................. 24, 44
Sliding buttonhole foot ..............
............... 4, 12, 26, 40_41,52_53
Small screw driver ............. 4, 52_53
Smocking ..................... 24, 45
Snap-on button .................. 3, t0
Spool pin felt ............... 4, 7, 52_53
Spool pins ....................... 2, 7
Stitch length control .............. 2, 21
Stitch selector .................. 3, 20
Stitch width control ............... 2, 21
Straight stitching ............. 23, 27_29
Straight stitch foot.,, 4, 11, 23, 27_29, 52_53
Straight stretch stitching ........... 23, 29
Stretch patching ................. 25, 45
Stretch stitch adjuster .............. 3, 21
T
Take-up lever .................... 2, 17
Thread cutter ..................... 2, 7
Thread guide .................. 2_3, 17
Three-step zigzag ................ 24, 36
Topstitching ................... 23, 28
Top thread .................... 17_20
Top thread tension ............... 19_20
Top thread tension control ........ 2, 19_20
Turning a square corner .............. 27
Two-point shell stitching ........... 25, 44
Z
Zigzag foot .........................
•_, 1t, 23"-26, 30, 32, 34_39, 44"_47, 52"53
Zigzag stitching .............. 23, 30_35
Zigzag overcasting .................. 35
Zipper application ............ 23, 42_43
Zipper foot ....... 4, 12, 23, 42"43, 52_53
54
WARRANTY _
() FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD
(_ For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear
in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head.
#
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE
_) For two years from the date of purchase, Sears wiIt, free of charge, repair defects in materml or workmanship which
appear m the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including electronic components, motor, w_rmg, switch and
speed control.
#
FULL 90-DAY WAR RANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
# For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and prowde mechanical service #
_) necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance. #
#
WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE €
{_ CENTER!DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES.
_) This warranty gwes you specific legal r_ghts, and you may a_so have other rights whmh vary from state to state_ {)
#
#
_) SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., D/8t7 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179
SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts
or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when
you call or visit,
:l'he model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION
if the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order wil! be electronically transmitted to a Sears
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO,, Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part No, 652800306
