Singer 14CG744 User Manual OVERLOCK MACHINE Manuals And Guides 1409385L

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14SH744/14CG744
(2.3.4 THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE)
(2.3.4 MAQUINA SOBREORILLADORA)
(SURJETEUSE
2.3.4 FILS)

14SH754/14CG754
(2.3.4 THREAD OVERLOCK MACHINE WITH DIFFERENTIAL
FEED)
(2.3.4 MAQUINA SOBREORILLADORA
CON TRANSPORTE
DIFERENClAL)
(SURJETEUSE
2.3.4 FILS ENTRAINEMENT
DIFFERNTIEL)

Operator's
Guide
Manual de lnstrucciones
Manuel D'instructions
\

/
®

14SH744/14CG744
(2.3.4 THREAD

OVERLOCK

MACHINE)

14SH754/14CG754
(2.3.4 THREAD

OVERLOCK

Operator

MACHINE

WiTH DiFFERENTiAL

s' Guide

FEED)

14SH744/14CG744

PREFACE

Thank you for your purchase of this sewing machine, This machine intended for househo(d use w((I provide you
with exceUent pedormance in sewing from )ight to heavy mate_ia( (lawn to denim)
Please refer to this booklet
for proper use and optimum service. To get the most out of your sewing machine read the entire operators
guide before attempting to operate the machine. Then familiar ze yourself with the machine by foilowing the
op,eratoCs guide _a_4eby page.

To ensure that you a_e always provided with the most modern sewing capabiHties_ the manufacturer reserves
the dght to change the appearance_ design or accessories of this sewing machine when considered necessary
without notification or oMigafion.

For European Territories:
_is S_nger Sewing Mac:hine was tested

_n8 to European no_s

resarding et_tMca(

and e

_econfo_yisdo_'_

safety radio interference
with t_

and m_ts

the requirements

gnetic immunity.

mark_

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
* if the supply cord is damaged, it must be rep$aced by the manufacturer or its service agent or a similarly
qaalified person in order to avoid a hazard.
'_ The appliance is not intended for use by young chiid_en or infirm persons without supewisiom
'_ Young c:hiidren shouid be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
Switch off or unp!ug the machine when leaving it unattended.
* Before sewicing the appliance or replacing lamps, unpiug the machine,

@Singer is a _istered
trede_
of The Singer Company Umffed or its amliates.
Copyright@2005 The Singer Company Limited

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When us}ng this machine, basic safety precaut}ens shouid always be followed including the following
Read aH instructions before using the machine
- To reduce the risk of electric shock:
. The machii_e shouid [lever be ieft unattended when p_ugged in Always unptug the machine from the
electric outlet immediateiy after using and before cleaning,
, Always unpiug before relamping Replace buib with the same type rated 15 watts
face plate which covers the light bulb before operating the machine_

WARNING -To,educe
the,skofburns,
fire.
e ectdc
, Be sure tha[the
the motor,

shock or iniury ,< persons

electdca_ voitage of the e_ectric outlet (wail receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage of

. Use this: machine only for its intended use as described in this Operator's Guide.
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in the Ope_atoCs Guide
To disconnect,

Be stJre to replace the

Use only a_tachments

turn a_l controls to the off (°0°) position, then remove plug from out_et

• Disconnec[ the power iine plug from the socket out_e_or switch the mach#_e off when making any adius[me_ts
in the needie area, such as threading needle and ioopers, changing needie, changing throat pinto or
changing presser foot, etc,
, Always unplug the machine from the eiectdcai out/el when removing covers, lubdcatir_g or when making
any other user serv cing adjustments mentioned in the Operato¢s Guide
. Do net attempt to adjust the motor bell.
required.

Contact your nearest Service Center should any adjustment be

. Do not: unplug by patiing on cord. To unplug, grasp the piug_ not the cord.
. Handie the feet controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to piece anyt,hing on top
of it
, Always use the proper th_oat plate

The wrong plate can cause the needle to break

. Do not use bent needles.
When sewing keep fingers away from at! moving parts_ Special care is required around the sewing
machine needle.
. Do not pull or push fabric while stitehing_

it may deflect the needle causing it to break.

• Use only the handle to lift and move the machine.
, Never operate the machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working property if it has been
dropped o$ damaged or dropped into the water. Return the mact_ine to the nea_esf authorized deaer or
Service Center for examination, repair, electrical, or mechanical adjustment.
. Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked Keep ventilation openings d the machine and
foot contro!ier free from the accumulation of iint, dust and ioose cloth
, Never drop or insert any object i_to any opening.

_Dono_use outdoors_
Do not operate where aeroso_ (spray) products are being used or where oxy_n
,, Do not allow to be used as a toy_ Close attention
children.

is necessary

is being administered.

when the machine is used by or near

Do not expose the machine or machine plastic case to sunlight directly.
or' damp placm

Atso, do not keep it in a very warm

._Do not touch the machine, foot controller and power line cord with wet hand, wet cloth or with anything we_.
Do

not

connect

power

line

cord

to one

of the

many cords connected

to one power outlet with adapte_,

÷ Use machine on fiat and stable table.
_,Be sure to close the cylinder cover and looper cover be{ore operat ng the machine.
* Keep Dresser foot and need!es away from children s reach.
£e sure the right bulb has coeted off before chang ng with e new one
Do not dismantle or modify the roach ne yourself_
,_8e sure to turn off the Dower switch and disconnect the power he
instructed in the operator's guide

plug before eadng for your machine as

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Servicing Shou{d be pedormed by an authorized service representattvm

This product

is intended

for household

use,

FOR EUROPEAN AND SIMILAR TERRITORIES:
Machines lot Great Britain and some other cour_tdes having similar widng standards are shipped from the
facte_ without: a plug for connection to the mains. The wires in this mains lead are colored in accordance with
t:he fotfowing codm
£1ue:

neutrai

(N)

Brown:

!ire

(L)

As the co_ors of the wires in the mains tend of this appliance
identifying the terminals in you_ piug proceed as fotlowe:
The wire which is colored
black: The wire whch is
colored red if a 13 Amp
used a 5 Amp. fuse must
Neither

cord

may not correspond

with the coveted markings

blue must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter N or colored
co_ored brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with letter L or
(BS 1363) piug is used, a 3 Amp. fuse must be fitted_ or ff any other type of p|ug is
be titled e_ther in the plug or adaptor or at the distdbut{on board

is to be connected

to the earth

termina!

of a three-pin

plug.

Page

P_ge
_.Selection ef Slitches .......................

2. Handy Reference Cha_
3 Accessories ..................................

6
7

2) 24hread :standard rolled _m

4 Needle Informa_er

3) 3 Thread Ovedock .......................

4) 3-Thread Fiatlock

.................9

5) 3-Thread Wrap_d

........................

5, Pnnc pal Parts .............................
6. How tO Open Leoeer Cover

7. Pr_ne pal Parts Behind Loooer Cover
8oPreparationPriortoSewing
9 Preparation

for Threading

....

...............

................

,,Settin _ up me thread guide holder
I0.How to Remove and InsertNeedles
• To remove needle_s}

.........

..........

.................

•To insertneedle_s).......................

Edge Ouerloc_ ........

S_i_ch........ 35

} 24hread wrapped edge overlook
24hread standard rolled _m

34hread

stitcNng ....

standard roiled hem st tch ng .....

37
37
38

upper ioope_ thread wrapped

relied hem slitching
24. S ilcl_ Variations and Sewing Techniques .......
-How to sew s flatlock decorative seam ..........

38
40
40

•Understandingthecolorcode ................. 12

• Hew to sew an ovedock b_ind hem .......

• To thread (he machine correctly ............

• How to sew pin tucks

42
43

1_Threading

Ihe upper looper (Orange) ........

• T_ming square comer& ..........

2) Threading

the lower _oeper (Yellow}.

• Pin placement

3) Threading

the right needle (Green) .....

,,Securing _he thread chain .....

4} Threading

lhe let! needte (B/uel

",How to reinforce a seam ................

........

, m po_tantthreadingw_formabon .............
12 How to Change Threads

Tie on M_thod .......

_,Bra ding by' cha ning elf
25 Machine Ma ntenance

45
45
46

13.Hew toAdjustthe SlitchLength ............... 21

• C/caning the machine ................

14. HOW tO Adfus! the Seam Widih

• Oilieg the roach ne .....................................
46

,W_dtn aG uslme_t by changing

21
needte p_smen

,Width adjustmentwithadjustment knob

. 21

........21

15. How _o A@ust the Presser Feet Press_ re .......

-How to replace _he stationary kn#e .................
47
,How to exchange light bulb

26 Troublesh_ting Chatl ...........................
49

I_6. Different_a_ Feed ..........................

27 Relationship

between Cloth, Thread and Needle .... 50

_ Gathered everedge .....................

28 Specificatie_

..............

• Stretch overedge
17 How io Disengage
18 ConveMing
!9

.......................... 24
Movable Upper Knite

tRe upper _ooDer rote _reade_

Free Arm Sewing _Tubular Work_

20 S_andard Overedge

........

and Roiled Hem Sli_chmg

27
-- 28

To sew standardoveredge .................

,To sew reliedhem ...........................28
21. Chainingelf and Test Sewing

30
.....

2& How to Sew a Reied Hem .................

_ite_ng

6) 4.Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Satey

2) 34bread

I ) 2othread wrapped edge overlook ........

11.Threading the Machine ....................... 12
-Threadin_ diag_am .......................

22 Suggested Tension Se_ing ......................

.................29

This machine is eapab!e of producing vadoas types ol stitches according to the combination of needle positions,
threading methods, tension adjustment
Referesce
Stitch Type

Pages
!_eeedle 24bread stttc_h is used for
light wetght or ke_ts febdcs, Alse,a

3.Smm and 5.7ram wropped eve#oak
Ham width can be obtained by
changing the needie posit ore"

2. Twin.read
standard roll_
hem sUtehing

3. Th:ree4hread
Overiock

l-needle 2-_,read stitch ts u_
for
everedge
sesmteg,bHedstiteh
hemming on ago flnishir_ o
_,a
&5ram a_
&Tram s_ndard
r_i_ _m _am _J_ _n _ ebtai_d
by ®or._teg the re_!e p_tion"

1-needle

3-thread

s_ilch

is tised

for

ovefedg ng sad seaming on common
fabrics.
A_so_ s 35ram and 5.Tram
ovedoek seam width ass be obtained by
changing the needle posit on"

4, Three4hread
I meedie 3-thread stitch is used fo_ bulted

Fiatlock

Or tapped seams and ornamental stitching
with d_o_etive thread, A_so, a 3,Smm and

57ram flatiock width ca# be obtained by
changing the needle posit on"

5, Thteeothread
Wrapped
Ovedock

Edge

6, Four4hread
Stretch
Safety

Mock
Stitch

1.-needle 34bread sf_tch is u_ for sewing
narrow roiled hems at omameRtal edges
Also, a 3.5ram and 57ram w_appod
oeedosk seam widish ca# be obtained by
changing the noedio position*

2_ceedIe 44htead s_itch wh_h is ideaI _or
medium _o heavy weight st[etchy fabrics
such as doubio kn_s ned swlm wea_.

" Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 34bread standard width 35ram overedge and
a 5oTmm wide overedge seams.

Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased
seem width ediustment knob, (See page 21)

still more by turning the overedge

&5mm

5o7mm

Needie used

Overedge rght needle

Overedge ieft needie

Needle thread
tension die!

Green

Bi[Je

N_dIe
Pos_ons

SUtchTy'_

Tension D|aI: Numbem shown are average
_nge
_ m_ium weight fabdc wi_h

s=ndord
_o _!yest_"
sp.n
_read
........Page
Biue

G_n

Yeii_

3,Smm

Thme-Thre_
Ove_k

3.0

2.5

2.0
32

5,7ram:
2.5

(5_)
Thme-Tn_ad
FtaUoek

2.5

2.0

5.5

&_m
&5

33
&Tram

0,5
_ree-Thread
Wrapped Edge
O_¢e#_

3_m

3,0

0,5

7.0

&Tram
3,0

Four'Thread UitraS#et_ M_J,:

2.5

2,0

0.5

7.0

2,5

2.0

(514)
The thread tension becomes tighter as the d|ets are turned to higher numbers, The tension settings shown on
this page as well as throughout the operators menua_ are suggested guides Adiust thread tensions to suit the
fabric end s_ze of thread used. For best results make tension adjustments in small ncrements of no greater
than haft e number at e t_me

Accessories are contained
the c_oth pi_te_

1 Needle set
2 Screw drive
3 Tweezers

(sina!! size)

4 Spreader

in the accessory case in

t
t
1
74417_
1

L_i,

Singer needle #2022
Singer needle #2022 size 90/! 4 is furnished
the machine,
in an emergency
may be used_

with

standard Singer needle #2020

Sizes
avaiiable

80/11
90/14

However, untess ti_e suggesled tension setting is
readjusted, skipping of the stitches may occur,

1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
!0
11
12
f3
14
15
16
17
18

Thread guides and hofder
Handle
Left needle thread tension dia! (blue)
Right needie thread lension dial (green)
Upper tooper thread tension dial (orange)
Lower looper thread tension dial (yellow)
Throat plate
Cloth p_ate
Looper cover
Power& light switch
Stitch !ength dia_
Hand whee!

Presser bar _ifter
Differentia! feed adjusting lever knob
Seam width finger support plate

Caution ;
Be sure to turn off power switch.
o

Push the cover to the right as far as it will go 1

Pull cover down toward you

Caution:
Be sure looper covet is closed when sewing,

1
2
3

Upper looper
Movable upper knife
Presser foot

4
5
6
7

Stationary bwer knife
Lower tooper
Seam width finger knob
Seam width adjustment knob

Connect the controiier
machine reeeptacle 2

/ eiectric

plug

* Plug power line 3 into electde outlet
" Power Switch:

1 to the

Push "-" mark side to turn °Of'J°.
Push _0" mark side to turn "OFF".

" To run the machine and control the speed, press
the contro!_e_.
* The harder you press, the faster the machine will

WARNING:

SeW

o To stop the machine from sewing, remove your foot
from the controller.

Be sure to make reference
following page.

to °Warning"

POLARIZED

PLUG INFORMATION

(FOR U.S,A, & CANADA

ONLY)

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of
electric shock, this piug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. if the plug
does not fit fully in the outtet, reverse the plug. ff it stil! does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way
Warning:
Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlel (waii receptacle}
vomtage of the motor.
Handle the foot co_trolier with care and avoid dropping
anything on top of it when not in use.

is the same as the rated

it on the floor

Be sure not to place

Disconnect the power line plug from the e_ectdc outJet wt_en changing needies, presser feet o_'
throat plates, or when: ieeving the machine unattended_ This eliminates the possibiiity ol starti_g
the machiRe by accid:entaliy pressing the controLier

Setting Up the Thread Guide Holder

• _is machine is shipped with the thread guide holder
in the iowered position,
• Fully extend the thread guide holder
* The two joints on the telescope wifl click into p_ace
when they are correctly positioned.

" Ce_ter the thread guides above the spoo_ pins.
• P_ace thread over the cone adapters on the spool
pins,
Note: _f the machir_e s threaded_ straighten
threads to prevent tangiingo

the

Caution '
Be sure to disconnect

the machine

flora the

eiectric outlet before removing needie(s)

• Turn the hand wheel toward you unfi_ the needle is
at its highest position

Loosen, but do not remove the needte set screw
with the smaii screwdriver.
1

Left needle set screw

2
3

Right needle set screw
Left needle

Right needle
j'

Remove the needle(s)

Fiat surfa_ to the rear
To Inse_ Needle(s)
Caution:
Be sure to discennect

the machine

from the

electric outlet before replacing needle(s}.

Hold the needie with the flat eudace to the back,
lnse_ the needle into the needle clamp as far as it
wiii go.
Securely tighten the needle set screw.
Note:

_ This machine uses #2022 needles. Refer
Io page 7 for additional needle information,
_ Remove the cloth plate if you find it difficult
to remove and replace the needie,

lil

• A color coded threading diagram is located inside
the looper cover for quick reference
• Thread the machine in the order

Unde rstand!ng
I
2
3
4

1 to 4 as shown,

the Co!o[ c£de

Upper looper thread .......
Orange
Lower iooper thread .........
Yellow
Right needle thread ........
Green
Left needle thread ..............
Blue

To Thread The Machine

Correctly

Caution :
Be sure to turnoff power switch,
_) Threading

the Upper

Looper

(Orange)

- Thread the upper looper as indicated

t ,,_8.

• Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide 1 .

• Thread the tep cover thread
guide by pulling the thread
downward
until it slips
under thread guide 2.

- While holding thread with finger, pass it between
the tension discs and pull thread down to make
certain it is properly !ocated in between the
tension discs 3

• Thread the looper area of the machine following the
orange color coded thread guides ( 4 _ 7 )
• Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to
back 8.
Note:

Use of tweezers provided in the accessory
set to aid in threading the _ooper

Pull about lOcm (4 inches) of thread through the
looper and place to the back of the threat piate.

2) Threadinq

the Lower

Looper

_Yellow)

,, Thread the !ower |ooper as indicated

I ,- 9,

Pass thread from back to the front through the
i:hfead guide 1

- Thread the iop cover thread
guide by puiling the thread
downward until it slips under
thread guide 2

• Whiie ho_ding thread with finger, pass it between
the te_sion discs and puli thread down to make
certain it is properiy _ocated in between the
tension discs 3

• Turn the hand wheel toward you until the !ower
iooper is at the far righL

Thread the iooper area of the machine fo[fow[ng
the ye[tow ootor coded thread guides 4 - 7
Note: Use the tweezers provided in the accessory
set to aid in threading the _ooper,

• Grasp the thread with the tweezers
inches) from thread guide 7

4 cm (1_1/2

•Piace the thread with the point of the tweezers
siightly under and to the }eft of threading guide 8,
t Puil the thread up and into thread guide 8,

Pass the thread behind and over the top end of
_eft looper 9*A_
Then puJi it downward gently so that it wiil slip
into the slot in the iooper goB.

• Pick up the thread and pass it:through the hole in
the end of the _ooper 10
Note

: Use the tweezers
provided in the
accessory
set to aid in threading
the
_ooper

• The thread should be positioned
the lower _ooper.

in the groove of

• Pull about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through the
_ooper and place it: over the top of the upper
looper and to the back o_ the throat plate

i 5

)
Thread the right needte as indicated t _ 8,

• Pass thread from back to the front through
thread guide !

the

Thread
the top cover
thread guide by pul_ing the
thread downward until it
slips under thread guide
2

• While holding thread with finger, pass it between
the tension discs and pair thread down to make
certain: it is proper{y tocated in between the
tension discs 3,

Continue to thread points

4 - 7

Ne_e: Be sure to pass the t:htead through _pper
thread path of the thread guide 6,

• Thread the eye oRthe right needle 8.
Note: Use of tweezers in the accesse_
set wi_{
make needle eye threading easy,
o Draw about lOcm (4 inches)
needle eye to, hang free,

of thread through

• P_aee the thread to the back, under the presser
foot:.

Thread the ieft needie as indicated

t -

6 Pass thread from back to the front through
thread guide 1.

the

Thread the top cover thread
guide by pulling the thread
downward
untii it: slips
under thread guide 2.

• While holding thread with finger, pass it between
the tension d_scs and pull thread down to make
certain t is proper_y _ocated in between the
tension discs 3

• Continue to thread points

4 ~ 6

Note: Be sure to pass the thread through
thread path of the thread guide 5.

t Thread the eye of the left needle

Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory
make needle eye threading easy,
-

Draw about lOcm (4 inches)
needie eye to hang free,

lower

set witl

of thread through

• Place the thread to the back, under the presser
fool

- If the lower !ooper should come unthreaded;

Corre_
View

1} Unthread the needle(s)
2) Thread the iower iooper
3) Thread the needle(s)

Wrong
View

\
19

- To change thread type or coior, c_ipthread near the
spooi,

o Place new thread on stand,
i Tie new thread and o_d thread ends together,
Cli# thread tai!s to 2 _ 3cm (1 inch) _ength_
if c_#ped too sho_, threads may come untied,

Firmiy puliboth thread to test knot security

• Note tension dial settings.

o Tl_m the tension

d_ais down

unti{ the d_at stop&

t pe_! the threads through the machine one at a t_me_
• if threads de not pull easily,, check for tangles on
thread guides or !ooping under thread start&
When pu_ing thread through the needle_ STOP when
_he knot is in front of the needle
• Cut the thread_ and _nsert it through the need_e_
" Rett_m tension dials to previous settings.

• The st[ch length diat shouid be set on the 3 mm
(!/8 inch)seting
for most sewing conditions.
Adjust

the stitch

sewing

heavy

length

to 4ram

(5/32

inch}

when

weight: fabrics,

* Adiust the stitch iength to 2ram (5/64 inch)when:
sewing ligh_ weight fabrics to obtain exce/ent seams
without puckering.

•

Overedge

seam

repositioning
width

Width

adjustment

Adiustment

width

the needie

can

position

achieved

and a_so w_th the

knob.

by Changing

Needle

Position

" Overedge seam width can be adjusted by changk_g
the _eedle position_
a} When only left needle is used ............

5.7 mm
(7/32 inch)

&7 mm

b) When only right needle is used ............. 3,5 mm
(9/64 inch)

35 mm
4 _
(9/6)

LeA needle
needie

Use of width adiustment knob wi/permit
further
adjustment wthin the width range ShOWn below
/
a} When

eniy left needie

b} When

oniy

is used ..... 5,2 ,,_67
(13/64

right

needie

is used_

_ 17/64
30

,_ 45

(_/8 *o 1It64

mm
inch)
mm
inch}

5,2
6,7 mm
t

Leftneedle
needie

Push the upper knife to the right and _ile
maintain
Me knife in this pesffJon,_m Me k,_.,obaway to adjuste
Me desi_
seam _dth,usi_
te graduations on the
throat p|ate as a gu_d_tne.

Cau|iol'l:
Aiways ciose
machine.

The

presser

preadjusted
medium

looper

foot

pressure

at the factory

weight

cover

before

of this
to sut

the

operating

machine
sewing

is
of

{abdcso

Most of the materials do not require adjustment of
presser foot pressure however_ there are some
instances where adjustment is necessary when
sewing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics,
In s_Jchcase_ inse_ sc[ewdriver through access hole
(At in top cover and into slot (B) in pressure
regulating screw and turn regulating screw as
required.
Note: Turn regulating screw counterclockwise until
it stops against the top cover. Then turn
screw clockwise 6 turns which wHibe the
standard presser bar pressure.
I

For lightweight

For heavyweight

fabric
fabric

o. Decrease
Increase

the pressure
the pressure

Differentia_ feed is a system which 'stretches"
or
"gathers '_the fabric, when amount of feed of front
feed dog in reiation to the rear feed d_ is changed

J The differentiai feed ratio ranges from i : 0,7
1 " 20_ Adjustment
is made by means of the
differential feed adiusting _ever pictured betow,
• Use of differentiai feed is very effective in overedging
streich fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias_
Graduation "1_0' is differentiai
setting for ra!io t :i,

(Ga_ered
Gathered
sleeves,

Overedge
overedge
yokes

_s most

front and back

etc, in stretch fabrics
assembiing

feed adiusting lever

suited
bodices,

for

sh!tring

ski_

hems,

such as knits and jersey

before

into garment

To set the differentiai

feed ad

lever

Set different{ai feed adiusting _ever knob below
graduation "1,0 _, Setting of adjusting lever knob
depends on materia! being sewn as well as the
amount of gather therefore set knob to suit the fabrc
and test sew before sewing your garment
When feed regulating diai is set at "3_ or over the
amount of feed of the main feed dog wi|| change to
"3' automatica!!y when adiusting lever knob is set
to 20
Note: For normai overedge stifching, set differential
z
feed adiusting _ever knob to g r aduat_on
1.0.

Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative
coHars_ sleeves, ski_ hems, etc, on loosely knit and
woven fabrics.

•

Set differential
feed adiusting
graduation "1_0".

_ever knob above

To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric
by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the
presser foot.
Note:,

if amount of "stretch" is not correctly set in
relation to the fabric being sewn the f_ric
is apl to shift away from the needie
resulting in {mproperly sewn overedge
seam, in such case, reset differentia_ feed
adjusting lever c_oser to the center msrk.
Be sure

to reset

the differential

adjusting
lever to graduation
normal overedge stitching.

"1.0"

feed
for

Caution :
Be sure to turn off power switch.
TO place

movable

knife

• Turn handwheei

in nonworkin_osition

over toward you and raise _pper

knife to its highest position,
• Open iooper cover (page

9)_

- Push the movable knife holder to the right as far as
it will go,

Movable Knife
Holder

• Turn the knob away from you until the knife clicks
inlo a her{zonta! position.
Note:

If the knife stops in the up position;
," Turn the hand whee! toward you until the
knife ctears the top of the machine.
Continue to rotate the knife to the horizontal
position,

!e kni_

in wc.rkin9

position

- Open _ooper cover and push the movable
holder to the right as far as it wii! go,

knife

• Turn the knob up and toward you until the knife
Clicks into the working position,
Caution :
Always close
machine,

looper cover before

operating

Warning:
Switch off the machine before installing
er removing the spreader_

(Ins_lling

the spreader

,, insert the pin (A) of the spreader
in the
hole (B) of the upper looper.
• Put the positioning
rib (C) {n contact
with the upper surface of the looper.
i insert the point (D)in the hole (E)
of the upper iooper

Removing

the spreader

• Remove lhe point (O) of the hole (E)
of the upper looper and take the
spreader off the I_per.

Note:

Put the spreader
back to the
accessory
storage.

This machine become a free arm machine simply
by removing the cloth plate

To[emove

thec_othpla$e

" Slide cioth piate to the _eftand remove from machine
wNe pressing button (A) !ecate_ on the uederside_

• This is especially suited for sewing hard to _'each
garment areas such as armhoies and overcasting
trouser cuffs
, Place garment over the free arm and sewo

cloth plate
• A_ig:nprojection on cloth plate with groove in cylinder
cover and slide to the right until tab on c_oth plate
(front) snaps into s_ot in cytinder cover,

To Sew Standard

Overedge

t Set seam width finger knob to S
width finger to projected position,
Note:

Be sure

to push

seam

width

far as it will go in the d_rection

to move

finger

seam

knob

of setting

as
S

Seam width finger knob

To Sew Rolied Hem
• Set seam width finger knob to
seam width finger

R to retract

the

Note: Be s_re to pl_sh seam width fnget knob as
far as it wili go in the direction of setting R.

When the machine is completely threaded, bring aH
of the threads over the throat plate and siight|y to
the eft under the presser foot.
• Hoid the threads and apply a slight tension.
• Turn the hand wheei toward you 2 or 3 comptete
turns to sfart the thread chain,
• Lower presser foot,

Continue hoiding the chain and press on the foot
controlier until the chain is 5 ~ ?.Scm (2 _ 3 inches)
inlength.

Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and
sew a test sample
Note:: Do not pul_ on the fabric while sewing as this
may deflect the need e, causing ff to break.

NEEDLE
Note: * These a_e suggested tension settings only,
Tension settings are effected by;
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needie size
3) Size type and fiber content of thread
* _e page 26 to _nveAing
into spreader,.

Correct

the up_t

POSITION

SEAM WIDTHFINGER KNOB

STITCH LENGTH

2_4

SPR_ER

USE

_oo_r

Balance

• Set Each Tension Dia! to Settings Shown at Right
and Test Sew on a SampJ:e of Your Fabric

Nea,,_y
we_ht
Tension
Dial
Lightwe_

Heartyweigh|

'I_5

How to Balance

e When the lower looper thread tens}on is too [_ght
or the needle thread tension is too loose;
- "rum the _ower looper thread tension dial (yellow)
toward a lower number.
- Or, turn the needle Dread tension diaf _blue or
green) towa_

a higher number.
Underside

, When the lower tooper thread tens_oois too io_;
- "rum the Ioo_r thread tension din! (_llow) toward
a higher humor.
NeedSe thread

Topside

Unde_ide

2) 2-Thread

standard

rolI_

hem stitching

Note: _ Ti/ese are suggested tension settings onty,
Tension settings are effeeted by;
t) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Nsed_e size
3) Size, type and fiber content of thread

* See pege26 to _nve_ng
into spreader.

Correct

NEEDLE

POSITION

J
s

SE_M V_ffDTHFINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH

2_4

SPREADER

USE

the upper looper
Lower I_per
thread

Balance

t Set Each Tension Diai to Settings Shown at Right
and Test Sew on a Sampie of Your Fabric
Tens_n Diai
L_ghtweigt

M_ium weight

0,5

6,0

i,0

6,5

we_ht

How to Balance

Men the lower looper _read
fabdc.

is botton _e

- "rum the lower _per

tension dlaf(yellow)

thr_

of the

toward a higher humor.
Or, turn _

n_{e

Lower
_read
thread

thread tension diet (blue or

green) t_ward a lower number_
When _e needle thread

is too loose;

- Turn _e _
_read tension dial (blue on green)
toward a kxwer humor.
- Or, _m _e _ower looper thread tension diet (yellow)
toward a lower number.

Lower I_r
thread

3t ¸

3) 34hread
Note:

Overlock

These are suggested tension settings oniy
Tension settings are effecled by;
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needie size
3) Size, type and fiber content of thread

NEEDLE POSITION
SEAM WIDTH F!NGERKNOB
STITCH LENGTH
Up_

S
2 ~4

ioo_r_read

• Set Each Tension Dial to Se_ings Shown at Right
and Test Sew on a Sampie of Your Fabric
Topside

(504)

o When the upper _eoper thread _ies on Me underside
of the fabric;
o Turn the upper looper thread tension dia_
(orange) to a higher number,
Or, turn the lower looper thread tension dial
(yellow) to a lower number.

• When the iower looper thread appears on the top
of fabric;
oTurn the _ower looper thread tension din! (yellow)
toward a hgher number_
- Or, turn the upper looper thread tension diaI
(orange) to a ower number.

U_erside

Unde_ide

• When the needle thread is too ioose, turn the
needte tension dial (blue or green)to
a higher
number

4) 34hread
Note:,

Fiatlock

These are suggested tension settings on_y.
Tension settings are effected by:
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and fiber content ef thread

• Set Each
and Test

Tension

Dial to Settings

Sew on a Sample

Shown

of Your

NEEDLE

POSITION
S

STITCH LENGTH

2- 4

at Right

Fabric

Fe_c

Tension D_I
Biue

Green

Yellow

L_hf[weight

4.5

M_ium weight

5.0

Heavy wean

0,5

5,5

7,0

- When the lower looper thread tension istoo loose;
Turn the iower looper thread tension dial (yel!ow)
toward a higher number.
- Or, turn the needle thread tension dial (blue or
green) toward a iower number.
thread
Tops_

Underside

" When the upper iooper thread tension is too _oose;
Turn the upper _ooper thread tension dia{
(orange) toward a higher number.
o Or, turn the needle thread tension dial(blue or
green) toward a lower number.
_read
Tepsi_

thread
U_ide

, When the needle thread tension is too _oose;
- Turn the needle thread tension dial (blue or
green) toward a higher number.
- Or, turn the upper looper thread tension din!
(orange) toward a lower number.
'T_e

U_emide

5) 3_thread Wrapped

Edge Ovedock

Note: _ These are suggesled

[ension settings on!yo

Tension settings are effected by:
1) Type and thickne_ of fabric
2} Neede size
3) Size, type and fiber content d thread,

NEEDLE

POSITION

SEAM W{DTH FINGER KNOB
STITCH LENGTH

S
2 ~4

• Set Each Tension Dial to Settings Shown at Right
and Test Sew on a Sample of Your Fabric

How to BalaDce
• When the upper looper thread tension is too loose;
- Turn, the upper looper thread tension dta_
(orange) toward a higher number

Topside

- When the lower tooper thread tension is too loose;
Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (yel!ow)
toward a higher number.
- Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial
(orange) toward a Sower number.

_htead
Tops_e

- When the needie thread tension is too loose;
'Turn the needle thread tension diai (blue or
green) toward a higher number,
- Or, turn the upper iooper thread tension dial
(orange) toward a lower number,

To_e

Un_ide

N_e

_read
Un_ide

Unde_

I6) 44hread

Ultra Stretch

Mock Safety Stitch

Note: _ These are suggested tension settings oniy
Tensioin settings are effected by;
1) Type and thickness of fabric
2) Needle size
3) Size, type and ftber content of thread

• Set Each Tension Dial to Settings Shown at Right
and Test Sew on a Sample of Your Fabric

NEEDLE

POSITION

SEAM W_DTHFINGER KNOB

STITCH _NGTH

2 ~4

U_;_ ioo_ _read

Right
thread

Topside

Ten,onmml

Fabr_
Ligh_we_ht

Howto Ba_anoe

....

" When the upper ioo_r thread ties on the underside
of the fabric;
o Turn the upper looper thread tension d_al
(orange) to a higher number.
- Or, turn lower looper thread tension dial (yellow)
to a lower number,

M_umwe_ht
Hea%v_ight

Tops_

- Turn tower looper thread tension dial (yellow)
toward a higher number
o Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dia_
(orange) toward a _ower number,

R_ght
ne_|e
_read

2.5

Ye!low
2,0
,

2.0

thm_
Lower
_per
_h.read

R_Jh_

thread appears on the top

Gream0ra_
15
2_0

Upper i_,.et

_ad
• When the lower [ee_r
of the fabric;

B!ue
20

need!e
thread
Un_

• When the lee needle thread tension is too loose;
- Turn the left needle thread tens{on dial (blue)
toward: a higher number

• When the r{ght needle thread tension is too _oose;
Turn the dght needle thread tension dial (green)
toward a higher number,

To.de

U_e_ide

" This machine can sew four types of roiled hems.
o Relied hemming
the fabric edge,
-

is done by rofting and everedging

Light weght fabrics such as tawn_ voii_ organdy_
crepe etc. perform the best

*_ Reiied
fabrics

hemming

Machine

Set Up

is not suited

for heavy o_ stff

- Remove the left needle,
_' Move seam width finger knob to setting R. (See
page 28 )
i Afige left face of seam width finger support plate
with R mark on throat plate by turning seam width
finger knob as required,
• Set stitch length dia_ to "F ' 2" and a fine seam ,#ill
be sewn.
• Needte: Singer Needle #2022 size 80/1! or 90/14
Q Thread: A variety of thread combinations can be
used fo_' rolled hemming.

Note: For a b_u_l
_th_ad
_H_ hem thread
the upper looper w_ w_y n_on and the n_dle
with ligh_eight _gular thread.

NEEDLE

POSiTiON

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB

Correct

F- 2

SPR_DER

USE

N_le

t_hread

Unde_ide

2-Thread standard rolled hem stitching

thread
Correct

Balance

• Set each tension diat to se_ings shown at
righ and test sew a sample of your fab_c.

STITCH _NGTH

Balance

• Set each tension diai to settings shown at right
and test sew on a sample of your fabric

Note:Forabeautifu_
rolledhemthread
theupper
_ooper
withwoolynylonandtheneedleand
_ower
looperwithti¢lhiweight
reguarthread

NEEDLE

POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB

STITCH LENGTH

2) 34hread

Standard

Rolled Hem Stitching

F -2

Upper I®per _read

* Set Each Tension Dial to Settings Shown at Right
and Test Sew on a Sample of Your Fabric

Up_ i®_
Ithread

/
o Set Each Tension Diai to Settings Shown at Right
and Test Sew on a Sample of You_" Fabric

N_ie

thread

Blue

G_n

Yei_

PoJyes_r

2.0

7,0

Woolynyl_

2_0

5.0
3

Additional

information

About

Roiled

Hemmin£

Hoid the thread chain when you begin sewing to
keep it from curiing into the seam

Piace a slight tension on the mateda_ in the sewing
direction and a finer seam tinish can be obta ned,
The minimum overedge stitch width that can be
obtained for to!ted hemming is approximately
1.
5ram (1/16 inch) since the cutting width cannot be
set be_ow 3oSmm (9,t64 inch},

To Secure the Roiled Hem Thread Chain
• Apply a. smaii drop of liquid seam sea!ant to the
end of the seam Aiiow to d:ry, then cut the chain
ClOSe
to i the stitches.
Note:

Test the _iquid seam
fastness before use

sealant

for co_o_

How to Sew a FJatiock Decorative

Seam

* A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjust ng the tension
of the 34hread ovedock stitch_ sewing the seam and
puliing the fabric apart to flatten ihe seam_
- The fiai:lock stitch can be used as a construction
and decorative stitch or for omamentat on on_yo

J1)

Machine

Se_U_

*, Remove the left or right needle,
,

Begin with the machine threaded and tension
balanced for the 3,q:hread ovedock stitch
(page 29 )
_t

e Loosen the needle thread tension (green o_ blue)

Remove _'_''/
Remove

• Loosen the upper looper thread tension (orange)

Tighten:

the lower

_ooper thread

tens on (yellow}

generously

....
Seam
•Piace
the fabric wrong sides together to sew a
decorative stitch on the #ght side of the garment,
• Sew the seam_ trimming the excess fabdc_

_' The needle tt_read (green or b!ue)will
on the underside of the fabric

form a V

• The [ower looper thread wH pull into a straight
iine at the fabric edge_

Needle _read

Underside

Pull on opposite
st tches fiat

Decorative

sides

of the

seam

to pull

th_

Flatlockinq

- Place the movab!e upper knife in the nonworking
position (page 25), The fabric is not trimmed Or
this stitch

J
• Fo_d fabric wrong sides together,
• Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with par
of the stitch extendinq off the fabric

• Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten,

Additional

information

• The tensions
fabric

must

About Flat!ockin_

be correctly

adjusted

fo_' the

to pull fiat

The upper !ooper thread is the prom nent thread
in the flat|ock stitch. Place a decorative thread
in the upper _ooper and inconspicuous
in the lower looper and needle,
•

threads

For a ladder stitch, sew seam with right sides
together The needle thread wiii be the prominent
thread that creates the iadder (A}

How to Sew an Overlock

Blind Hem

" The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn
and the raw edges are overJocked in one operation
* The ovedock biind: hem is best suited for sewing
knit wear Jtprovides a darabie finish that is almost
invisib!e.

Remove the left needie and adjust machine for a
narrow 3-,thread ovedock stitch.
Note:

The three4hread
used.

flat_ock stitch can a_so be

Set the stitch iength dial at 4,

Foid the hem to the wrong side of the fabric, then
back to the right side with 6ram (!/4") beyond the
fo_d_

Remove

Stitch on the extended hem edge ailowing the
machine needie to bareiy catch the edge of the fold,

How

to Sew

Pin Tucks

• Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting
out the garment,
•

Remove
the left needle and adjust
narrow 34bread
ovedock
stitch.

machine

Note: The to}led hem stitch can aso

for a

be used for

this technique

Remove
• Place the movabie upper knife in the nonworking
positio# (page 25).
• Mark the fabric with the desired number of pin tucks
using a water soluble fabric markeL

Fold the _abdc with the wrong sides together

and

sew.

o Press the pin tucks in the same direction

f Turning
_)

Square Corners

Outside

Corner

• Cut cut approximateJy 2 cm (51/64 inch) from the
corner, in line with the overedge seam edge.
• Sew one stitch beyond point (A)and

stop.

• Raise needie and presser foot.
•

Pull t:he fabric to the rear of the machine just
enough to retease the thread caught on the finger
of the throat piate,
Note: Presser
detaii

toot has beer removed

to show

* Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that
the knife is positioned in line with the cut edge
_, Pull slack

threads

up_ then

sta_

to sew.

Inside Corner
o Cut fabric at seam edge,

"Piaee
the movabte
position (page 25)_

upper

knife in nonworkmg

Stitch on cut edge of fabric,
Stop sewing before you reach the corner and fold
the fabric to the left to straighten the corner,

• Continue to sew siow_y ho_ding the fabdc edge in
a straight line moving the fold as you sew.

Pin Placement
" Insert pins to the left of the presser foot, The pins
wi_!be easy to remove and are away from the cutting
action of the knives.
Caution:
Sewing

over

the cutting

C Securing

pins

edge

the Thread

will damage

and/or

destroy

of the knives,,

Chain

• Thread a iarge eye, hand sewing needle (such as a
tapestry needie) with the thread chaim
• _nsert the need!e into the end of the seam to secure
thread.
Note; To secure a re_!ed hem thread ehain, see
page 3£

How
•

to Reinforce

a Seam

inserting twiii tape while eye,edge
stabilize the seam_

sewing

wil_

• insert the tape through the hole in the front of the
foot.
• Position the tape under the foot to the back of the
machine and sew the garment seam.

, The tape is attached as the seam is sewn.

Braiding
•

by Chaining

Place the movsbie
position.

Off
upper

i/
knife

in nenworking

• Insert filler cord such as yarn or twili tape through
the hole inthe front of the foot.
" Position the filler cord under the foot and chain off
the desired length.
• Chained off braids can be used individua_ly or woven
into 3 or 4 piy braids.

45 ¸

An over!ock requires more maintenance
than a
conventiona_ machine mainiy due to two reasons_
1) A _ot of }int is produced due to the cutting action
of the knives,
2) Ar_ overlook runs at a very high speed and needs
to be oiled frequendy to _ubricate the internal
working pe!ts.

Ii Cleaning

the Machine

Before cleaning your machine, disconnect
power line plug from the waii receptacle,
•Ciean
|he _iat from the looper and knife area often
with a dry Ha|:brush_
Nots:

Lint brush

is an optiona_ part,

I Oiiing the Machine
Danger:
Before {ubricating your machine, disconnect
power line ptug from the wall recep_ade_
, The oiling points shown in the diagram, should be
oiled periodically
Note:

Use sewing machine oi_ Do not use any
other oi_ or damage could result,

How to Replace the Stationary

Before
replacing
disconnect
power
receptacle.
The stationa_
becomes
duH,

knife

Knife

the stationary
line plug from

shou{d

be changed

knife,
the wail

when

The stationary knife can be replaced according to
the directions provided, however if there are any
difficulties
experienced,
consult your Singer
representative to make the adjustments,
Be sure that the power fine plug is disconnected
from the electric source.
Open the _ooper cover and set the movable upper
knife 1 in the nonworking position (page 25)
Loosen the stationa_ knife set screw 2 and remove
the stationary knife 3.

•

Ptace a new stationary
s_ationary knife hoider,

o Tighten stationary

knife in the groove of the

knife sef screw

• Return the movable
posiflon,

upper knife

2
1 to its working

How to Exchange

Light BuJb

]

Danger:
Always unpk_g before revamping
• Light bulb is available at your Singer shop, Take
old buib to the Singer shop and ask for same bulb
if voltage indicated on the electrical rating p_ate of
your machine is i!0 .... 127V, ask for light bu!b
conforming to foi_ow!ng specification
o Bayonet type:
G_ass shape:
, Lamp cap:
.Overaii {ength:

110 --_127V, 15W
To20
BAI5Dt19
48 _.,58ram

Remove Iight cover screw and wMle pushing the
cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left and
remove from machine as shown in the iiiustration,
Turn bulb to the _eft to remove, To replace the bulb
push bulb into the socket and turn to _he right
Caution:
Be sure
changing

the

iight

bulb

with s new

has

cooled

off

before

one

Replace ihe light cover first before connecting
the power tine plug.
f

• if voltage indicated on the electrical rating p_ate of
your machine is 200 ......240V_ ask for light bulb
conforming te foliowing specification

Edson type (screw type):
, Glass shape:
T_22
,,Lamp cap:
E14
. Overail length: 56ram
•

Remove

!ight cover

screw

200 _ 240V_ 15W

and

whiie

pushing

the

cover lightly to the rear, swing cover fo the left and
remove from machine
as shown in the Hiustration,
T'um bulb to the _eft to remove.
bulb

into socket

turning

To replace,

it to the right.

screw

Problem

Solution

Fabric does not feed
well

- Lengthen stitch length,
- increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric.
- Decrease presser foot pressure for Eight weight fabric,

21
22

Needle breaks

- Insert needle correctly
Do not pult fabric while sewing,
o Tighten needle set screw,
o Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics,

11
29
11
7

Thread breaks

o Check threading
- Check for tangled or caught thread
- lnse_ needle correctly
- !nse_ new needle, current needle may be bent or have a
blunt point
- Use a high quatity lhread,
- Loose# thread tension.

i2~19
2O
!1
7

Stitches skip

Irregular stitches

InseA new needie_ current needie may be bent or have a
Tighten needle set screw.
InseA needie correctly
- Change type or size of needle.
Check threading.
- _ncrease presser foot pressure.
Use a high quatity thread,

1i
11
7
12-i9
22

o Balance thread tension,

_38
2O
t2~19

o Check for tangled or caught thread,
- Check threading.
Fabric puckers

- Loosen thread tension.
-Check for tangled or caught thread
- Use high quality light weight thread,
- Shorten stitch length,
- Decrease presser foot pressure for light weight fabdcs.

Irregular

trimming

Machine does not

2O
21

- Check a_ignment of knives.
- Replace one or both knives.
Close looper cover before sewing
Check for tang_ed or caught thread.
- Compress
thick iayers of fabric with conventional
machine before sewing with ove#ock

operate

50
30~38

Connect

machine to power source

TypeofFabric

Type of Thread

Light:
Weight

Cotton:
Siik:

Lawn,Organdy,
VoiiC_epe,
etc.

Tetron:

Medium Weight
Muslin,

Cotton:
Silk:

Sheersucker,

Satin_ Gabardine,
Bmadcioth,

Tetren:

#100
#100
#80 o#90
#80o#100

Needle
Singer Cat No 2022

#It

#60 =#80
#50
#60 _#80
#60 - #80

#11,#t4

etc,

Heavy Weight

Cotton:
Silk:

Oxford Denim,
Tweed, Corduroy,

Tetron:

Knit

#40- #60
#40 - _0
#60 _#80
#50 _#80

#!4

#80 - #90
Tetron: #60 - #80

Tdcot

Jersey

Woei (woven, knit)

Spun:
Tetron:
Cotton:

#60 ° #80
#60 #80
#60 - #80

Spun:
Tetron:

#60 o#80
#50 _#60

#11

#11,#14

#11_#14

Wooliy nylon
Wooliy tetron
Singer needge, Cat. No, 2022 is furnished

it is recommended

that you select

your

with the machine however,

needle

in accordance

with the mateda!

you are sewing,

item

Sewing speed
Stitch length (feed amount)
Differential feed ratio
Overedge

stitch wfdth

Needle bar stroke
Presser foot rise
Needle

Mode!
Number of threads
Machine dimensions
Width

!,300 spin maximum
1 - 4ram (standard: rolled hemming F - 2, e_ina_ overedge
1:0.7 ~ !:2 (with dilferential feed machine)
Rolled hemming 1.Smm, ordinary overedge 3,0 - 6.7ram
(standard &5ram)
27mm
4.5mm
Roiled hemming:
Singer Cat, No. 2022 #11
Ordinary overedge: Singer Cat. No. 2022 #I 1, #i4
14SH744/14CG?44
2,3,4

&0)

t48HT_/14CGT_
2,3,4

(mm)

Depth
Height

338
280
265

Weight(Kg)

Source Exif Data:

File Type                       : PDF
File Type Extension             : pdf
MIME Type                       : application/pdf
PDF Version                     : 1.2
Linearized                      : No
Page Count                      : 54
Page Layout                     : SinglePage
Page Mode                       : UseNone
Producer                        : Goby Monitor Application version 3, 2, 1, 4
Create Date                     : Sat Oct 04 07:01:21 2014
Author                          : 
Title                           : 
Subject                         :

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Singer 14CG744 User Manual OVERLOCK MACHINE Manuals And Guides 1409385L

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