Prusa3d Manual Mk3 En

User Manual:

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Please​ ​always​ ​refer​ ​to​ ​the​ ​http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/
for​ ​an​ ​updated​ ​version​ ​of​ ​this​ ​3D​ ​printing​ ​handbook​ ​(PDF​ ​download).

QUICK​ ​GUIDE​ ​TO​ ​THE​ ​FIRST​ ​PRINT
1.​ ​Read​ ​the​ ​safety​ ​instructions​ ​carefully​ ​(​page​ ​7​)
2.​ ​Place​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​on​ ​a​ ​flat​ ​and​ ​stable​ ​surface​ ​(​page​ ​10​)
3.​ ​Download​ ​and​ ​install​ ​the​ ​drivers​ ​(​page​ ​39​)
4.​ ​Calibrate​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​by​ ​following​ ​our​ ​calibration​ ​flow​ ​/​ ​wizard​ ​(​page​ ​11​)
5.​ ​Insert​ ​the​ ​SD​ ​into​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​print​ ​your​ ​first​ ​model​ ​(​page​ ​25​)

Important​ ​notice,​ ​tip,​ ​hint​ ​or​ ​information​ ​that​ ​helps​ ​you​ ​print​ ​with​ ​ease.
Read​ ​carefully!​ ​This​ ​part​ ​of​ ​the​ ​text​ ​has​ ​the​ ​uppermost​ ​importance​ ​-​ ​either​ ​for​ ​user
safety​ ​of​ ​for​ ​a​ ​proper​​ ​printer​​ ​service.
This​ ​symbol​ ​indicates​ ​text​ ​related​ ​to​ ​a​ ​printer​​ ​kit​ ​only.

Handbook​ ​version​ ​3.0​ ​from​ ​December​ ​2,​ ​2017​ ​©​ ​Prusa​ ​Research​ ​s.r.o.
2

About​ ​the​ ​author
Josef​ ​Prusa​​ ​(born​ ​Feb​ ​23​rd​,​ ​1990)​ ​became​ ​interested​ ​in​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​printing​ ​phenomenon​ ​before
joining​ ​the​ ​Prague’s​ ​University​ ​of​ ​Economics​ ​in​ ​2009​ ​-​ ​at​ ​first​ ​it​ ​was​ ​a​ ​hobby,​ ​a​ ​new
technology​ ​open​ ​to​ ​changes​ ​and​ ​improvements.​ ​The​ ​hobby​ ​soon​ ​became​ ​a​ ​passion​ ​and
Josef​ ​grew​ ​into​ ​one​ ​of​ ​the​ ​leading​ ​developers​ ​of​ ​Adrien​ ​Bowyer’s​ ​international,​ ​open​ ​source,
RepRap​ ​project.​ ​Today,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​see​ ​the​ ​Prusa​ ​design​ ​in​ ​different​ ​versions​ ​all​ ​around​ ​the
world,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​one​ ​of​ ​the​ ​most​ ​popular​ ​printers​ ​and​ ​thanks​ ​to​ ​it,​ ​knowledge​ ​about​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​printing
technology​ ​significantly​ ​increased​ ​among​ ​the​ ​public.
Jo’s​ ​work​ ​on​ ​self-replicating​ ​printers​ ​(you​ ​can​ ​print​ ​the​ ​other​ ​printer​ ​parts​ ​with​ ​your​ ​printer)
are​ ​still​ ​ongoing​ ​and​ ​currently,​ ​there​ ​is​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​-​ ​the​ ​third​ ​iteration​ ​of​ ​the​ ​original​ ​3D​ ​printer.
It​ ​is​ ​constantly​ ​updated​ ​with​ ​the​ ​latest​ ​innovations​ ​and​ ​you've​ ​just​ ​purchased​ ​its​ ​latest
version.​ ​In​ ​addition​ ​to​ ​printer​ ​hardware​ ​upgrades,​ ​the​ ​main​ ​goal​ ​is​ ​to​ ​make​ ​the​ ​technology
more​ ​accessible​ ​and​ ​understandable​ ​to​ ​all​ ​users.
Josef​ ​Prusa​ ​also​ ​organizes​ ​workshops​ ​for​ ​the​ ​public,​ ​participates​ ​in​ ​professional
conferences​ ​dedicated​ ​to​ ​the​ ​popularization​ ​of​ ​3D​ ​printing.​ ​For​ ​example,​ ​he​ ​lectured​ ​at​ ​the
TEDx​ ​conference​ ​in​ ​Prague​ ​and​ ​Vienna,​ ​at​ ​World​ ​Maker​ ​Faire​ ​in​ ​New​ ​York,​ ​Maker​ ​Faire​ ​in
Rome​ ​or​ ​at​ ​the​ ​Open​ ​Hardware​ ​Summit​ ​hosted​ ​by​ ​MIT.​ ​Josef​ ​also​ ​teaches​ ​Arduino​ ​at
Charles​ ​University​ ​and​ ​was​ ​also​ ​a​ ​lecturer​ ​at​ ​the​ ​Academy​ ​of​ ​Arts​ ​in​ ​Prague.
In​ ​his​ ​own​ ​words,​ ​he​ ​imagines​ ​3D​ ​printers​ ​will​ ​be​ ​available​ ​in​ ​every​ ​home​ ​in​ ​a​ ​not​ ​too​ ​distant
future.​ ​“If​ ​anything​ ​is​ ​needed,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​simply​ ​print​ ​it.​ ​In​ ​this​ ​field,​ ​you​ ​just​ ​push​ ​the
boundaries​ ​every​ ​day...​ ​We're​ ​glad​ ​you're​ ​part​ ​of​ ​it​ ​with​ ​us!”

3

Table​ ​of​ ​contents
2​ ​Product​ ​details

6

3​ ​Introduction​​ ​-​ ​Glossary,​ ​Disclaimer,​ ​Safety​ ​instructions,​ ​Licenses

6

4​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​printer

8

5​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​printer​ ​kit

9

6​ ​First​ ​steps

10

6.1​ ​Printer​ ​unpacking​ ​and​ ​proper​ ​handling

10

6.3​ ​Setup​ ​before​ ​printing
6.3.1​ ​Calibration​ ​flow​ ​and​ ​wizard

11
11

6.2​ ​Printer​ ​assembly

11

6.3.2​ ​Flexible​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​surface​ ​preparation

13

6.3.2.2​ ​Flexible​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​with​ ​PEI​ ​foil
6.3.3​ ​Increasing​ ​the​ ​adhesion

15
15

6.3.2.1​ ​Flexible​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​with​ ​powder​ ​coated​ ​PEI

15

6.3.4​ ​Selftest​ ​(kit​ ​only)

16

6.3.5​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​(kit​ ​only)

17

6.3.4.1​ ​Selftest​ ​error​ ​messages​ ​and​ ​resolution​ ​(kit​ ​only)

6.3.5.1​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​error​ ​messages​ ​and​ ​resolution​ ​(kit​ ​only)
6.3.6​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z

16
18
20

6.3.7​ ​Loading​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder

21

6.3.8​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​ ​(kit​ ​only)
6.3.8.4​ ​Bed​ ​level​ ​correction​ ​(kit​ ​only)

22
23

6.3.7.1​ ​Unloading​ ​the​ ​filament

6.3.9​ ​Fine-tuning​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer
6.3.9.1​ ​Print​ ​prusa​ ​logo

6.3.9.2​ ​Check​ ​probe​ ​height​ ​(kit​ ​only)
7​ ​Printing

7.1​ ​Removing​ ​objects​ ​from​ ​the​ ​printer.
7.2​ ​Printer​ ​Control
7.2.1​ ​LCD​ ​screen

22

23
23
24
25
25
26
26

7.2.2​ ​Print​ ​statistics

27

7.2.4​ ​Normal​ ​vs.​ ​Stealth​ ​mode

27

7.2.3​ ​Fail​ ​stats

27

7.2.5​ ​Factory​ ​reset
7.2.6​ ​SD​ ​card​ ​sorting

27
28

7.2.8​ ​LCD​ ​layout

29

7.2.7​ ​Testing​ ​if​ ​file​ ​(.gcode)​ ​is​ ​complete

28

7.2.9​ ​Print​ ​speed​ ​versus​ ​print​ ​quality
7.2.10​ ​USB​ ​cable​ ​and​ ​Pronterface

32
32

7.3.1​ ​Different​ ​nozzles

34

7.3​ ​Printer​ ​addons

7.3.1.1​ ​Hardened​ ​steel​ ​nozzle
7.3.1.2​ ​0.25mm​ ​nozzle
8​ ​Advanced​ ​Calibration

8.1​ ​PID​ ​tuning​ ​for​ ​Hotend​ ​(Optional)

34
35
35
35
35

4

8.2​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​calibration/​ ​Temp.​ ​calibration​ ​(Experimental/Optional)

36

8.4​ ​Linear​ ​Advance​ ​(Experimental)
8.5​ ​Extruder​ ​info

37
38

8.3​ ​View​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​details​ ​(Optional)

36

9​ ​Printer​ ​drivers

39

10​ ​Printing​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models

39

10.1​ ​Where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​get​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​models?

39

10.3​ ​PrusaControl

40

10.6​ ​Print​ ​in​ ​color​ ​with​ ​ColorPrint

44

10.2​ ​In​ ​what​ ​program​ ​you​ ​can​ ​create​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models?
10.4​ ​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition
10.5​ ​Bundled​ ​3D​ ​models

39
42
43

10.7​ ​Printing​ ​of​ ​non-standard​ ​models

46

10.7.2​ ​Large​ ​object​ ​printing

47

10.7.1​ ​Printing​ ​with​ ​support​ ​material

11​ ​Materials

46

49

11.1-11​ ​ABS,​ ​PLA,​ ​PETG,​ ​HIPS,​ ​PP,​ ​Nylon,​ ​Flex,​ ​Composite​ ​materials,​ ​ASA,​ ​nGen,​ ​PC-ABS
11.12​ ​Dialing​ ​in​ ​new​ ​materials

12​ ​FAQ​ ​-​ ​Printer​ ​maintenance​ ​and​ ​print​ ​issues
12.1​ ​Regular​ ​maintenance
12.1.1​ ​Bearings

49
56
57
57
57

12.1.2​ ​Fans
12.1.3​ ​Extruder​ ​drive​ ​gear

57
58

12.1.5​ ​PEI​ ​rejuvenation

58

12.3.1​ ​Running​ ​out​ ​of​ ​filament

59

12.3.3​ ​False​ ​sensor​ ​readings​ ​and​ ​debugging
12.3.3.1​ ​Dust​ ​on​ ​the​ ​sensor​ ​-​ ​how​ ​to​ ​clean

59
60

12.1.4​ ​Electronics

58

12.2​ ​Print​ ​surface​ ​preparation
12.3​ ​Filament​ ​sensor

58
59

12.3.2​ ​Filament​ ​jam

59

12.3.3.2​ ​Extreme​ ​light​ ​conditions
12.3.3.3​ ​Exotic​ ​filaments

12.4​ ​Clogged​ ​/​ ​jammed​ ​extruder
12.5​ ​Nozzle​ ​cleaning

12.6​ ​Replacing​ ​/​ ​changing​ ​the​ ​nozzle

60
60
60
61
62

12.7​ ​Printing​ ​problems

63

12.8​ ​Problems​ ​with​ ​finished​ ​models

64

12.9​ ​Updating​ ​printer​ ​firmware

64

12.7.1​ ​Layers​ ​break​ ​and​ ​split​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​ABS​ ​material
12.7.2​ ​Models​ ​contain​ ​either​ ​too​ ​much​ ​or​ ​not​ ​enough​ ​of​ ​the​ ​filament
12.8.1​ ​Model​ ​breaks​ ​and/or​ ​is​ ​easily​ ​damaged

13​ ​FAQ​ ​-​ ​common​ ​issues​ ​when​ ​assembling​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​kit
13.1​ ​Printer​ ​is​ ​rocking​ ​-​ ​YZ​ ​frame​ ​-​ ​geometry​ ​check
13.2​ ​Printer​ ​stops​ ​printing​ ​soon​ ​after​ ​start
13.3​ ​Printer​ ​can’t​ ​read​ ​the​ ​SD​ ​card
13.4​ ​Loose​ ​X-​ ​and/or​ ​Y-axis​ ​belts
13.5​ ​Detached​ ​cables​ ​to​ ​the​ ​heatbed

63
64
64

65
65
66
66
67
68

5

2​ ​Product​ ​details
Title:​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​/​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​(kit),​ ​Filament:​ ​1.75​ ​mm
Manufacturer:​ ​Prusa​ ​Research​ ​s.r.o.,​ ​Partyzánská​ ​188/7A,​ ​Prague,​ ​170​ ​00,​ ​Czech​ ​Republic
Contacts:​ ​phone​ ​+420​ ​222​ ​263​ ​718,​ ​e-mail:​ ​info@prusa3d.com
EEE​ ​group:​ ​3​ ​(IT​ ​and/or​ ​telecommunication​ ​equipment),​ ​Device​ ​use:​ ​indoor​ ​only
Power​ ​supply:​ ​90-135​ ​VAC,​ ​2​ ​A​ ​/​ ​180-264​ ​VAC,​ ​1​ ​A​ ​(50-60​ ​Hz)
Working​ ​temperature​ ​range:​ ​18​ ​°C​ ​(PLA)-38​ ​°C,​ ​indoor​ ​use​ ​only
Working​ ​humidity:​ ​85​ ​%​ ​or​ ​less

Kit​ ​weight​ ​(brutto​ ​/​ ​netto):​ ​9.8​ ​kg​ ​/​ ​6.3​ ​kg,​ ​assembled​ ​printer​ ​weight​ ​(brutto​ ​/​ ​netto):​ ​12​ ​kg​ ​/
6.3​ ​kg.​ ​Serial​ ​number​ ​is​ ​located​ ​on​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​frame​ ​and​ ​also​ ​on​ ​the​ ​packaging.

3​ ​Introduction
Thank​ ​you​ ​for​ ​purchasing​ ​our​ ​original​ ​3D​ ​printer​​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​from​ ​Josef​ ​Prusa
either​ ​as​ ​an​ ​assembled​ ​printer​​ ​or​ ​a​ ​printer​​ ​kit​ ​-​ ​as​ ​your​ ​purchase​ ​supports​ ​us​ ​with​ ​its​ ​further
development.​ ​Read​ ​the​ ​handbook​ ​carefully,​ ​please,​ ​all​ ​chapters​ ​contain​ ​valuable​ ​info​ ​for​ ​the
correct​ ​service​ ​of​ ​the​ ​printer.​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​is​ ​a​ ​successor​ ​to​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3
MK2S​ ​with​ ​numerous​ ​hardware​ ​and​ ​software​ ​upgrades,​ ​which​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​improved​ ​reliability,
increased​ ​print​ ​speed,​ ​and​ ​ease​ ​of​ ​use​ ​and​ ​assembly.
Please​ ​check​ ​the​ ​http://prusa3d.com/drivers​​ ​page​ ​for​ ​the​ ​updated​ ​version​ ​of​ ​this​ ​3D
printing​ ​handbook​ ​(PDF​ ​download).
In​ ​case​ ​of​ ​any​ ​printer​​ ​related​ ​problem​ ​do​ ​not​ ​hesitate​ ​to​ ​contact​ ​us​ ​at​ ​info@prusa3d.com​.We
are​ ​glad​ ​to​ ​receive​ ​all​ ​your​ ​valuable​ ​comments​ ​and​ ​tips.​ ​We​ ​strongly​ ​suggest​ ​you​ ​visit​ ​our
official​ ​forum​ ​at​ ​forum.prusa3d.com​,​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​find​ ​solutions​ ​to​ ​common​ ​issues,​ ​tips,
advice​ ​and​ ​hints​ ​in​ ​addition​ ​to​ ​actual​ ​information​ ​about​ ​the​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ p
​ rinter’s
development.

3.1​ ​Glossary
Bed,​ ​Heatbed,​ ​Printbed​​ ​-​ ​Commonly​​ ​used​ ​term​​ ​for​ ​printing​​ ​pad​ ​-​ ​a​ ​heated​ ​area​ ​of​ ​the​ ​3D
printer​​ ​where​ ​3D​ ​objects​ ​are​ ​printed.
Extruder​​ ​-​ ​Printing​​ ​head​ ​or​ ​extruder​ ​is​ ​a​ ​part​ ​of​ ​a​ ​printer​​ ​consisting​ ​of​ ​a​ ​nozzle​,​ ​hobbed
pulley,​ ​idler​ ​and​ ​a​ ​nozzle​​ ​fan.
Filament​​ ​-​ ​Term​​ ​for​ ​plastic​ ​provided​ ​on​ ​a​ ​spool​ ​is​ ​called​ ​“​filament”​,​ ​it’s​ ​used​ ​throughout​ ​this
handbook​ ​as​ ​well​ ​as​ ​in​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu​ ​on​ ​the​ ​printer​.
Heater,​ ​Hotend​​ ​-​ ​another​ ​name​ ​for​ ​a​ ​printing​​ ​nozzle​.
1.75​​ ​-​ ​3D​ ​printers​ ​use​ ​two​ ​different​ ​diameters​ ​(thickness)​ ​of​ ​a​ f​ ilament​ ​(​thickness​)​:​ ​2.85​ ​mm
(​commonly​​ ​called​ ​as​ ​3​ ​mm)​ ​and​ ​1.75​ ​mm.​ ​1.75mm​ ​version​ ​is​ ​more​ ​used​ ​worldwide​ ​though
there​ ​is​ ​no​ ​difference​ ​in​ ​printing​​ ​quality.
6

3.2​ ​Disclaimer
Failure​ ​to​ ​read​ ​the​ ​Manual​ ​may​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​personal​ ​injury,​ ​inferior​ ​results​ ​or​ ​damage​ ​to​ ​the​ ​3D
printer.​ ​Always​ ​ensure​ ​that​ ​anyone​ ​who​ ​operates​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​printer​ ​knows​ ​and​ ​understands​ ​the
contents​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Manual.​ ​We​ ​can​ ​not​ ​control​ ​the​ ​conditions​ ​in​ ​which​ ​you​ ​assemble​ ​the
Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3.​ ​For​ ​this​ ​and​ ​other​ ​reasons​ ​we​ ​do​ ​not​ ​assume​ ​responsibility​ ​and​ ​expressly
disclaim​ ​liability​ ​for​ ​loss,​ ​injuries,​ ​damage,​ ​or​ ​expense​ ​arising​ ​out​ ​of​ ​or​ ​in​ ​any​ ​way​ ​connected
with​ ​the​ ​assembly,​ ​handling,​ ​storage,​ ​use​ ​or​ ​disposal​ ​of​ ​the​ ​product.​ ​The​ ​information​ ​in​ ​this
Manual​ ​is​ ​provided​ ​without​ ​any​ ​warranty,​ ​expressed​ ​or​ ​implied,​ ​regarding​ ​its​ ​correctness.

3.3​ ​Safety​ ​instructions
Please​ ​be​ ​very​ ​cautious​ ​during​ ​any​ ​interaction​ ​with​ ​the​ ​printer​.​ ​This​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​an
electrical​ ​device​ ​with​ ​moving​ ​parts​ ​and​ ​hot-temperature​ ​areas.
1.​ ​The​ ​device​ ​is​ ​for​ ​indoor​ ​use​ ​only.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​expose​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​to​ ​rain​ ​or​ ​snow.​ ​Always​ ​keep
the​ ​printer​ ​in​ ​a​ ​dry​ ​environment​ ​at​ ​a​ ​minimum​ ​distance​ ​of​ ​30​ ​cm​ ​from​ ​other​ ​objects.
2.​ ​Always​ ​place​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​on​ ​a​ ​stable​ ​place,​ ​where​ ​it​ ​can​ ​not​ ​fall​ ​or​ ​tip​ ​over.
3.​ ​The​ ​printer​ ​supply​ ​is​ ​household​ ​power​ ​outlet​ ​230​ ​VAC,​ ​50​ ​Hz​ ​or​ ​110​ ​VAC​ ​/​ ​60​ ​Hz;​ ​Never
connect​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​to​ ​a​ ​different​ ​power​ ​supply,​ ​it​ ​may​ ​cause​ ​malfunction​ ​or​ ​damage​ ​to​ ​the
printer.
4.​ ​Place​ ​the​ ​power​ ​cord​ ​so​ ​you​ ​can’t​ ​stumble​ ​on​ ​it,​ ​or​ ​step​ ​on​ ​it​ ​or​ ​otherwise​ ​expose​ ​to​ ​any
damage.​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​the​ ​power​ ​cord​ ​is​ ​not​ ​mechanically​ ​or​ ​otherwise​ ​damaged.​ ​Stop
using​ ​damaged​ ​cable​ ​immediately​ ​and​ ​replace​ ​it.
5.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​disconnect​ ​the​ ​power​ ​cord​ ​from​ ​the​ ​socket,​ ​pull​ ​the​ ​plug​ ​rather​ ​than​ ​the​ ​cord​ ​to
reduce​ ​the​ ​risk​ ​of​ ​damage​ ​to​ ​plug​ ​or​ ​AC​ ​outlet.
6.​ ​Never​ ​disassemble​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​power​ ​supply,​ ​it​ ​does​ ​not​ ​contain​ ​any​ ​parts​ ​that​ ​could​ ​be
repaired​ ​by​ ​an​ ​unskilled​ ​worker.​ ​All​ ​repairs​ ​must​ ​be​ ​provided​ ​by​ ​a​ ​qualified​ ​technician.
7.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​or​ ​heat​ ​bed​ ​when​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​printing​ ​or​ ​is​ ​warming​ ​up.​ ​Note
that​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​210-300​ ​°C​ ​(410-572​ ​°F);​ ​heatbed​ ​temperature​ ​can
reach​ ​over​ ​100​ ​°C​ ​(212​ ​°F).​ ​Temperatures​ ​above​ ​40​ ​°C​ ​(104​ ​°F)​ ​can​ ​cause​ ​harm​ ​to​ ​human
body.
8.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​reach​ ​inside​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​while​ ​it​ ​is​ ​still​ ​in​ ​operation.​ ​An​ ​injury​ ​may​ ​be​ ​caused​ ​by​ ​its
moving​ ​parts.
9.​ ​Prevent​ ​children​ ​from​ ​unsupervised​ ​access​ ​to​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​even​ ​when​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​not
printing.
10.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​leave​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​unattended​ ​while​ ​it's​ ​still​ ​on!
11.​ ​Plastic​ ​is​ ​being​ ​melted​ ​during​ ​printing​ ​which​ ​produces​ ​odors.​ ​Set​ ​up​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​some
place​ ​well​ ​ventilated.

3.4​ ​Licenses
Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​printer​​ ​is​ ​a​ ​part​ ​of​ ​the​ ​RepRap​ ​project,​ ​the​ ​first​ ​open​ ​source​ ​3D​ p
​ rinter
project​ ​free​ ​to​ ​use​ ​under​ ​a​ ​GNU​​ ​GPL​​ ​v3​ ​license​​ ​(​www.​gnu​.org/​licenses​/​gpl​-3.0.en.html​).​ ​If
you​ ​improve​ ​or​ ​alter​ ​any​ ​part​ ​of​ ​a​ ​printer​​ ​and​ ​you​ ​are​ ​willing​ ​to​ ​sell,​ ​then​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​publish
the​ ​source​ ​codes​ ​under​ ​the​ ​same​ ​license​.​ ​All​ ​3D-printed​ ​elements​ ​of​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​that​ ​can​ ​be
improved​ ​upon​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​at​ ​http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/​.
7

4​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​printer
Unlike​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​kit,​ ​it’s​ ​completely​ ​assembled​ ​and​ ​almost​ ​ready​ ​to​ ​print​.​ ​After​ ​plugging​ ​in
and​ ​running​ ​the​ ​necessary​ ​calibration​ ​you,​ ​can​ ​print​​ ​a​ ​3D​ ​object​ ​in​ ​a​ ​matter​ ​of​ ​minutes​ ​after
unpacking​ ​the​ ​printer​.​ ​Keep​ ​in​ ​mind​ ​you​ ​can​ ​use​ ​our​ ​support​​ ​email​ ​when​ ​you​ ​purchased​ ​the
assembled​ ​printer​.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​hesitate​ ​to​ ​write​ ​us​ ​if​ ​you​ ​need​ ​any​ ​advice​ ​or​ ​help.​ ​We​ ​will​ ​gladly
help​ ​with​ ​any​ ​specific​ ​prints.
3D​ ​printers​ ​use​ ​two​ ​different​ ​diameters​ ​of​ ​a​ ​filament​​ ​(you​ ​can​ ​find​ ​more​ ​in​ ​chapter
Materials​):​ ​2.85​ ​mm​ ​and​ ​1.75​ ​mm.​ ​1.75mm​ ​version​ ​is​ ​used​ ​more​ ​worldwide,​ ​though
there​ ​is​ ​no​ ​difference​ ​in​ ​printing​​ ​quality.​ ​The​ ​filament​ ​is​ ​provided​ ​on​ ​a​ ​spool​ ​where
you​ ​can​ ​find​ ​the​ ​basic​ ​information​ ​-​ ​filament​​ ​maker,​ ​material​​ ​(ABS,​ ​PLA,​ ​etc.)​ ​and
filament​​ ​diameter.​ ​2.85​ ​mm​ ​filament​​ ​is​ ​commonly​​ ​called​ ​as​ ​3​ ​mm.
This​ ​printer​​ ​supports​ ​only​ ​a​ ​1.75​ ​mm​ ​filament​.​ ​Please​ ​check​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​diameter​ ​to​ ​be
1.75​ ​mm​ ​before​ ​inserting​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​try​ ​to​ ​insert​ ​wider​ f​ ilament​​ ​it​ ​could
damage​ ​the​ ​extruder.

Pict.​ ​1​ ​-​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​printer​ ​description

8

5​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​printer​ ​kit
Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​kit​ ​is​ ​pictured​ ​in​ ​p​ict​.​ ​2.​ ​Detailed​​ ​information​ ​and​ ​assembly
description​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​in​ ​chapter​ ​6.2​ ​Printer​ ​assembly​.​ ​We​ ​offer​ ​the​ ​support​​ ​for
users​ ​who​ ​purchased​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​kit​ ​through​ ​our​ ​official​ ​forum.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​need​ ​help​ ​do
not​ ​hesitate​ ​to​ ​visit​ ​our​ ​forum​ ​at​ ​forum.prusa3d.com​.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​the​ ​answers​ ​to
your​ ​problem​ ​there.​ ​If​ ​not,​ ​please​ ​just​ ​post​ ​your​ ​question​ ​directly​ ​there.

Pict.​ ​2​ ​-​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​printer​ ​kit​ ​unboxed

9

6​ ​First​ ​steps
6.1​ ​Printer​ ​unpacking​ ​and​ ​proper​ ​handling
Holding​ ​the​ ​upper​ ​frame,​ ​take​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​pull​ ​it​ ​out​ ​from​ ​the​ ​box.​ ​Be​ ​careful​ ​when
handling​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​not​ ​to​ ​damage​ ​the​ ​electronics​ ​and​ ​thus​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​printer​ ​functionality.
Anytime​ ​you​ ​move​ ​the​ ​printer,​ ​always​ ​hold​ ​the​ ​upper​ ​frame​ ​with​ ​hotbed​ ​upright​ ​pointing
away​ ​from​ ​you​ ​as​ ​pictured​ ​in​ ​pict.​ ​3​.​ ​When​ ​unpacking​​ ​the​ ​fully​ ​assembled​ ​version,​​ ​remove
the​ ​top​ ​foam​ ​from​ ​the​ ​box​ ​and​ ​gently​ ​lift​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​up.​ ​Parts​ ​of​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​are​ ​secured​ ​by
more​ ​foam​ ​which​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​removed.​ ​Some​ ​parts​ ​are​ ​additionally​ ​secured​ ​with​ ​the​ ​white
zip-ties,​ ​cut​ ​those​ ​off​ ​too.

Pict.​ ​3​ ​-​ ​Proper​ ​handling​ ​of​ ​a​ ​printer
Both​ ​the​ ​assembled​ ​version​ ​and​ ​the​ ​kit​ ​version​ ​come​ ​with​ ​a​ ​few​ ​things​ ​you​ ​might​ ​need
during​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​use.
-

USB​ ​Cable​​ ​-​ ​used​ ​for​ ​uploading​ ​a​ ​new​ ​firmware​ ​or​ ​alternatively​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​the
computer.
Acupuncture​ ​needle​​ ​-​ ​used​ ​for​ ​cleaning​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​when​ ​stuck.​ ​See​ ​the​ ​chapter
11.5​ ​Nozzle​ ​cleaning​​ ​for​ ​more​ ​information.
Glue​ ​stick​​ ​-​ ​Used​ ​for​ ​better​ ​Nylon​ ​adhesion​ ​or​ ​as​ ​a​ ​separator​ ​for​ ​Flex​ ​materials.​ ​See
the​ ​chapter​ ​11​ ​Materials​​ ​for​ ​more​ ​information.
Test​ ​protocol​ ​-​ ​All​ ​the​ ​components​ ​of​ ​every​ ​printer​ ​are​ ​tested.​ ​The​ ​electronic​ ​parts
are​ ​even​ ​connected​ ​as​ ​in​ ​a​ ​final​ ​assembly​ ​and​ ​battery​ ​of​ ​tests​ ​is​ ​ran.​ ​Only​ ​when​ ​all
tests​ ​pass​ ​the​ ​electronics​ ​get​ ​a​ ​serial​ ​number​ ​and​ ​protocol​ ​+​ ​S/N​ ​stickers​ ​are​ ​printed.
Test​ ​protocol​ ​shows​ ​all​ ​the​ ​test​ ​results​ ​of​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​components.
10

6.2​ ​Printer​ ​assembly
With​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​printer​​ ​kit​ ​we​ ​suggest​ ​to​ ​follow​ ​the​ ​guidelines​ ​and
assemble​ ​the​ ​kit​ ​according​ ​to​ ​the​ ​the​ ​online​​ ​manual​ ​at​ ​manual.prusa3d.com​.​ ​(​Online
manual​ ​is​ ​available​ ​in​ ​several​ ​languages​ ​on​ ​the​ ​website).​ ​The​ ​construction​ ​of​ ​the
printer​​ ​should​ ​not​ ​take​ ​more​ ​than​ ​one​ ​working​ ​day.​ ​After​ ​a​ ​successful​ ​completion
continue​ ​to​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​6.3​ ​Setup​ ​before​ ​printing​.

6.3​ ​Setup​ ​before​ ​printing
●
●
●
●
●

Place​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​to​ ​a​ ​horizontally​ ​stable​ ​position,​ ​the​ ​best​ ​place​ ​is​ ​a​ ​workbench
where​ ​there​ ​is​ ​no​ ​risk​ ​of​ ​draft​.
Attach​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​holders​ ​to​ ​the​ ​upper​ ​frame.
Attach​ ​Filament​​ ​to​ ​the​ ​holders.​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​spool​ ​doesn’t​ ​jam​ ​and​ ​can
move​ ​freely.
Plug​ ​in​ ​the​ ​AC​ ​power​ ​cord​ ​and​ ​turn​ ​on​ ​the​ ​switch.
Check​ ​out​ ​the​ ​firmware​ ​version​ ​(in​ ​the​ ​Support​ ​menu​ ​via​ ​LCD​ ​panel)​ ​and​ ​please
upgrade​ ​to​ ​the​ ​latest​ ​one​ ​from​ ​our​ ​website​ ​www.prusa3d.com/drivers​.
Filament​ ​is​ ​a​ ​common​ ​term​​ ​for​ ​the​ ​plastic​ ​rod​ ​-​ ​material​​ ​provided​ ​on​ ​a​ ​spool​ ​from
which​ ​3D​ ​objects​ ​are​ ​printed.

6.3.1​ ​Calibration​ ​flow​ ​and​ ​wizard

11

With​ ​your​ ​first​ ​start-up​ ​of​ ​your​ ​freshly​ ​assembled​ ​printer,​ ​it​ ​will​ ​guide​ ​you​ ​through​ ​all​ ​the​ ​tests
and​ ​calibrations​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​do​ ​to​ ​get​ ​started​ ​printing.
Wizard​ ​can​ ​be​ ​also​ ​started​ ​manually​ ​from​ ​LCD​ ​menu​ C
​ alibration​ ​->​ ​Wizard​.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​forget
to​ ​read​ ​chapter​ ​6.3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​preparation​​ ​before​ ​running​ ​the​ ​Wizard.
It​ ​follows​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​flow​ ​and​ ​helps​ ​you​ ​with​ ​following​ ​steps:
●
●
●
●

Selftest​ ​-​ ​Chapter​ ​6.3.4
Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​-​ ​Chapter​ ​6.3.5
Loading​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​ ​-​ C
​ hapter​ ​6.3.7
First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​ ​ ​-​ ​Chapter​ ​6.3.8

It​ ​is​ ​not​ ​mandatory​ ​to​ ​use​ ​it,​ ​and​ ​you​ ​can​ ​cancel​ ​the​ ​wizard​ ​at​ ​the​ ​beginning.​ ​Then​ ​you
should​ ​just​ ​manually​ ​follow​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​flow​ ​as​ ​on​ ​older​ ​firmware​ ​revisions.

Pict.​ ​4​ ​-​ ​Wizard​ ​setup

12

There​ ​are​ ​few​ ​special​ ​occasions​ ​where​ ​you​ ​will​ ​need​ ​to​ ​redo​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​or​ ​part​ ​of​ ​it.
●

●

Firmware​ ​update​​ ​-​ ​Complete​ ​guide​ ​is​ ​in​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​12.9​ ​Updating​ ​printer​ ​firmware​.
6.3.8.​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​rerun​ ​otherwise​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​show​ ​an​ ​error
message.
Readjusting​ ​the​ ​P.I.N.D.A.​ ​probe​​ ​-​ ​Run​ ​6.3.6​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z​ ​to​ ​store​ ​new​ ​reference​ ​Z
height​ ​values.
It​ ​is​ ​important​ ​to​ ​disconnect​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​USB​ ​from​ ​any​ ​computer​ ​or​ ​OctoPrint​ ​running
on​ ​Raspberry​ ​Pi​ ​for​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​calibration.​ ​Printer​ ​will​ ​not​ ​respond​ ​to​ ​any​ ​request
from​ ​the​ ​host​ ​and​ ​communication​ ​will​ ​timeout,​ ​when​ ​host​ ​resets​ ​the​ ​connection,​ ​the
printer​ ​restarts​ ​and​ ​might​ ​end​ ​up​ ​in​ ​weird​ ​state​ ​requiring​ 7
​ .2.5​ ​Factory​ ​Reset​.

6.3.2​ ​Flexible​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​surface​ ​preparation
The​ ​MK52​ ​heatbed​ ​has​ ​embedded​ ​high​ ​curie​ ​temperature​ ​magnets.​ ​These​ ​magnets​ ​are
able​ ​to​ ​firmly​ ​hold​ ​removable​ ​spring​ ​steel​ ​sheets.​ ​There​ ​are​ ​two​ ​pins​ ​at​ ​the​ ​end​ ​of​ ​the
heatbed​ ​that​ ​will​ ​align​ ​perfectly​ ​with​ ​cut​ ​out​ ​slots​ ​in​ ​the​ ​spring​ ​steel​ ​sheets.​​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the
bed​ ​is​ ​clean​ ​and​ ​there​ ​aren’t​ ​any​ ​debris​ ​on​ ​it​​ ​before​ ​you​ ​put​ ​on​ ​the​ ​steel​ ​sheet​.​ ​Never
print​ ​directly​ ​on​ ​the​ ​heatbed.

Pict.​ ​5​ ​-​ ​HeatBed​ ​MK52​ ​base​ ​and​ ​powder​ ​coated​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​surface
To​ ​achieve​ ​the​ ​best​ ​adhesion​ ​on​ ​the​ ​new​ ​surface,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​important​ ​to​ ​keep​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​clean.
Cleaning​ ​of​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​very​ ​easy.​ ​The​ ​best​ ​option​ ​is​ I​ sopropyl​ ​alcohol​ ​available​ ​in
drugstores​ ​which​ ​is​ ​the​ ​best​ ​for​ ​ABS,​ ​PLA​ ​and​ ​others​ ​(except​ ​for​ ​PETG​ ​where​ ​the​ ​adhesion
may​ ​be​ ​too​ ​strong.​ ​See​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​11.3​ ​PET​​ ​for​ ​instructions).​ ​Pour​ ​a​ ​little​ ​amount​ ​on
unscented​ ​paper​ ​towel​ ​and​ ​wipe​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.​ ​The​ ​bed​ ​should​ ​be​ ​cleaned​ ​while​ ​cold​ ​for
the​ ​best​ ​results​ ​but​ ​it​ ​can​ ​also​ ​be​ ​cleaned​ ​when​ ​already​ ​preheated​ ​for​ ​PLA,​ ​just​ ​be​ ​careful
not​ ​to​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​surface​ ​or​ ​the​ ​nozzle.​ ​When​ ​cleaning​ ​at​ ​higher​ ​temperatures​ ​the​ ​alcohol
will​ ​evaporate​ ​before​ ​it​ ​can​ ​clean​ ​anything.​ ​Alternatively,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​with​ w
​ arm
13

water​ ​and​ ​a​ ​few​ ​drops​ ​of​ ​a​ ​dish​ ​soap​​ ​on​ ​a​ ​paper​ ​towel.​ ​Denatured​ ​alcohol​​ ​is​ ​yet​ ​another
option.
The​ ​surface​ ​does​ ​not​ ​have​ ​to​ ​be​ ​cleaned​ ​before​ ​every​ ​print!​ ​It​ ​is​ ​just​ ​important​ ​to​ n
​ ot
touch​​ ​the​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​with​ ​your​ ​hands​​ ​or​ ​dirty​ ​tools​.​ ​Clean​ ​your​ ​tools​ ​with​ ​the
same​ ​solution​​ ​as​ ​you​ ​would​ ​the​ ​sheet​ ​and​ ​you​ ​will​ ​be​ ​able​ ​to​ ​start​ ​your​ ​next​ ​print
right​ ​away.

Pict.​ ​6​ ​-​ ​Steel​ ​print​ ​sheets​ ​-​ ​smooth​ ​PEI​ ​sheet,​ ​glossy​ ​powder​ ​coated​ ​PEI​ ​and​ ​textured
powder​ ​coated​ ​PEI
All​ ​original​ ​print​ ​surfaces​ ​from​ ​Prusa​ ​Research​ ​are​ ​coated​ ​from​ ​both​ ​sides.

.
Pict.​ ​7​ ​-​ ​Smooth​ ​vs​ ​powder​ ​coated​ ​effect​ ​on​ ​print​ ​surface
14

6.3.2.1​ ​Flexible​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​with​ ​powder​ ​coated​ ​PEI
Powder​ ​coating​ ​directly​ ​on​ ​metal​ ​makes​ ​it​ ​very​ ​hard​ ​to​ ​damage​ ​this​ ​build​ ​plate.​ ​If​ ​a​ ​heated
nozzle​ ​crashed​ ​into​ ​it,​ ​the​ ​metal​ ​can​ ​dissipate​ ​the​ ​heat.​ ​Powder​ ​coating​ ​also​ ​gives​ ​the
surface​ ​distinct​ ​textured​ ​look​ ​that​ ​will​ ​be​ ​visible​ ​on​ ​your​ ​prints.

6.3.2.2​ ​Flexible​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​with​ ​PEI​ ​foil
Uses​ ​the​ ​same​ ​PEI​ ​sheets​ ​as​ ​on​ ​the​ ​MK2/S.
You​ ​can​ ​leave​ ​small​ ​marks​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​with​ ​your​ ​nozzle​ ​or​ ​tools,​ ​they​ ​will​ ​typically
be​ ​shinier​ ​than​ ​the​ ​rest.​ ​It​ ​does​ ​not​ ​affect​ ​the​ ​functionality​ ​or​ ​adhesion.​ ​However,​ ​if​ ​you​ ​want
to​ ​have​ ​same​ ​surface​ ​look​ ​on​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​printbed​ ​you​ ​can​ ​resurface​ ​it.​ ​The​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​is​ ​to
take​ ​a​ ​hard​ ​side​ ​of​ ​dry​ ​kitchen​ ​sponge​ ​and​ ​wipe​ ​the​ ​affected​ ​area​ ​with​ ​circular​ ​motion​ ​gently
few​ ​times.
The​ ​industrial​ ​glue​ ​which​ ​holds​ ​the​ ​PEI​ ​sheet​ ​on​ ​the​ ​heatbed​ ​itself​ ​softens​ ​when
temperatures​ ​greater​ ​than​ ​110​ ​°C​ ​are​ ​used.​ ​If​ ​higher​ ​temperatures​ ​are​ ​used,​ ​the
glue​ ​can​ ​migrate​ ​under​ ​the​ ​PEI​ ​and​ ​create​ ​slight​ ​bumps​ ​on​ ​the​ ​surface.

6.3.3​ ​Increasing​ ​the​ ​adhesion
In​ ​some​ ​special​ ​occasions,​ ​like​ ​a​ ​tall​ ​object​ ​with​ ​a​ ​very​ ​small​ ​contact​ ​area​ ​with​ ​the​ ​print
surface,​ ​you​ ​might​ ​need​ ​to​ ​increase​ ​the​ ​adhesion.​ ​Fortunately​ ​PEI​ ​is​ ​a​ ​very​ ​chemically
resistant​ ​polymer​ ​and​ ​you​ ​can​ ​temporary​ ​apply​ ​other​ ​adhesion​ ​solutions​ ​without​ ​damaging
it.​ ​This​ ​also​ ​applies​ ​to​ ​materials​ ​which​ ​would​ ​not​ ​stick​ ​to​ ​PEI​ ​otherwise,​ ​like​ ​Nylon​ ​etc.
Before​ ​applying​ ​anything​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed,​ ​consider​ ​using​ B
​ rim​ ​option​​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​which​ ​increases
the​ ​surface​ ​area​ ​of​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer.
For​ ​Nylon​ ​blends​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​glue​ ​stick​ ​does​ ​the​ ​trick.​ ​Glue​ ​can​ ​be​ ​later​ ​easily​ ​removed​ ​by
window​ ​cleaner​ ​or​ ​dish​ ​soap​ ​water.
For​ ​ABS​ ​prints,​ ​ABS​ ​juice​ ​can​ ​be​ ​used​ ​and​ ​later​ ​cleaned​ ​with​ ​pure​ ​acetone.​ ​Be​ ​very​ ​gentle
when​ ​applying​ ​the​ ​juice​ ​and​ ​do​ ​so​ ​while​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​is​ ​cold.​ ​Prints​ ​will​ ​attach​ ​very​ ​strongly.
Prepared​ ​juice​​ ​can​ ​be​ ​also​ ​purchased​ ​in​ ​our​ ​e-shop.​ ​Unfortunately,​ ​UPS​ ​service
does​ ​not​ ​allow​ ​to​ ​deliver​ ​any​ ​acetone-based​ ​products​ ​due​ ​to​ ​shipping​ ​constraints.​ ​In
that​ ​case​ ​you​ ​get​ ​only​ ​the​ ​bottle​ ​and​ ​ABS​ ​from​ ​our​ ​e-shop​ ​and​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​source
the​ ​acetone​ ​locally.

15

6.3.4​ ​Selftest​ ​(kit​ ​only)
The​ ​purpose​ ​of​ ​the​ ​selftest​ ​routine​ ​is​ ​to​ ​check​ ​most​ ​common​ ​errors​ ​when​ ​assembling​ ​and
connecting​ ​electronics​ ​and​ ​to​ ​help​ ​indicate​ ​any​ ​possible​ ​errors​ ​after​ ​assembly.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​run
the​ ​Selftest​ ​from​ ​Calibration​ ​menu​ ​on​ ​LCD​ ​panel.​ ​This​ ​should​ ​not​ ​be​ ​necessary​ ​on​ ​the
assembled​ ​printers​ ​as​ ​those​ ​are​ ​pretested.
Initiating​ ​this​ ​routine​ ​performs​ ​a​ ​series​ ​of​ ​tests.​ ​The​ ​progress​ ​and​ ​results​ ​of​ ​each​ ​step​ ​are
displayed​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD.​ ​In​ ​case​ ​of​ ​errors​ ​found,​ ​the​ ​selftest​ ​is​ ​interrupted​ ​and​ ​the​ ​reason​ ​for
error​ ​is​ ​shown​ ​to​ ​guide​ ​users​ ​in​ ​troubleshooting.
The​ ​selftest​ ​is​ ​just​ ​a​ ​diagnostic​ ​tool,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​still​ ​attempt​ ​to​ ​print​ ​even​ ​after
the​ ​test​ ​fails.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​are​ ​absolutely​ ​certain​ ​that​ ​the​ ​affected​ ​part​ ​is​ ​correct,​ ​you​ ​may
continue​ ​with​ ​the​ ​print​ ​process.
Test​ ​consists​ ​of
● Extruder​ ​and​ ​print​ ​fan​​ ​test
● Heatbed​​ ​and​ ​hotend​​ ​proper​ ​wiring
● XYZ​ ​motors​​ ​proper​ ​wiring​ ​and​ ​functionality
● XY​ ​axis​​ ​length
● XY​ ​belts​ ​tension
● Loose​ ​belt​ ​pulley​​ ​test
6.3.4.1​ ​Selftest​ ​error​ ​messages​ ​and​ ​resolution​ ​(kit​ ​only)
Front​ ​print​ ​fan/​ ​Left​ ​hotend​ ​fan​ ​-​ ​Not​ ​spinning:
Check​ ​proper​ ​wiring​ ​of​ ​print​ ​and​ ​hotend​ ​fan​ ​cables.​ ​Ensure​ ​that​ ​both​ ​are​ ​properly
connected​ ​to​ ​the​ ​EINSY​ ​electronics,​ ​and​ ​that​ ​they​ ​are​ ​not​ ​swapped.
Please​ ​check/​ ​Not​ ​connected​ ​-​ ​Heater/​ ​Thermistor:
Check​ ​proper​ ​wiring​ ​of​ ​hotend​ ​power​ ​cables​ ​and​ ​thermistor​ ​cables.​ ​Ensure​ ​that​ ​both
are​ ​properly​ ​connected​ ​to​ ​the​ ​EINSY​ ​electronics,​ ​and​ ​that​ ​they​ ​are​ ​not​ ​swapped.
Bed/Heater​ ​-​ ​Wiring​ ​error:
Check​ ​that​ ​heatbed​ ​and​ ​hotend​ ​power​ ​cables​ ​are​ ​not​ ​swapped​ ​or​ ​thermistor​ ​cables
from​ ​both​ ​hotend​ ​and​ ​heatbed​ ​are​ ​not​ ​swapped​ ​in​ ​the​ ​EINSY​ ​electronics.
Loose​ ​pulley​ ​-​ ​ ​Pulley​ ​{XY}:
The​ ​belt​ ​pulley​ ​is​ ​loose​ ​and​ ​slips​ ​on​ ​the​ ​motor​ ​shaft.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​important​ ​to​ ​tighten​ ​the​ ​first
grub​ ​screw​ ​on​ ​the​ ​flat​ ​piece​ ​of​ ​shaft,​ ​then​ ​continue​ ​with​ ​the​ ​second​ ​grub​ ​screw.
Axis​ ​length​​ ​-​ ​{XY}:
Printer​ ​measures​ ​the​ ​length​ ​of​ ​the​ ​axis​ ​by​ ​going​ ​from​ ​end​ ​to​ ​end​ ​twice.​ ​If​ ​the
measured​ ​value​ ​is​ ​different​ ​from​ ​the​ ​physical​ ​length,​ ​your​ ​axis​ ​might​ ​be​ ​blocked​ ​from
16

moving​ ​all​ ​the​ ​way.​ ​Check​ ​by​ ​hand​ ​if​ ​axis​ ​is​ ​running​ ​smoothly​ ​when​ ​printer​ ​is
powered​ ​off.
Endstops​ ​-​ ​Wiring​ ​error​ ​-​ ​Z:
Check​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​cabling​ ​of​ ​PINDA​ ​probe.​ ​Routine​ ​indicates​ ​PINDA​ ​has​ ​malfunction
or​ ​is​ ​not​ ​properly​ ​responding.​ ​Check​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​connection​ ​in​ ​the​ ​EINSY​ ​electronics.
Endstop​ ​not​ ​hit​ ​-​ ​Motor​ ​Z:
Check​ ​if​ ​Z​ ​axis​ ​can​ ​go​ ​all​ ​the​ ​way​ ​down​ ​to​ ​trigger​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​prove​ ​over​ ​the​ ​bed.

6.3.5​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​(kit​ ​only)
The​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​comes​ ​with​ ​a​ ​full​ ​mesh​ ​bed​ ​leveling​ ​feature,​ ​however
for​ ​this​ ​to​ ​work​ ​we​ ​need​ ​to​ ​first​ ​calibrate​ ​the​ ​distance​ ​between​ ​tip​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle
and​ ​P.I.N.D.A​ ​(​P​rusa​ ​IND​uction​ ​A​utoleveling)​ ​probe.
The​ ​process​ ​is​ ​fairly​ ​straightforward,​ ​so​ ​let’s​ ​get​ ​to​ ​it.
The​ ​purpose​ ​of​ ​the​ ​X/Y/Z​ ​calibration​ ​routine​ ​is​ ​to​ ​measure​ ​the​ ​skew​ ​of​ ​the​ ​X/Y/Z​ ​axes​ ​and​ ​to
find​ ​the​ ​position​ ​of​ ​the​ ​4​ ​calibration​ ​points​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​for​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​bed​ ​leveling.​ ​You
can​ ​run​ ​the​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​​ ​from​ ​Calibration​ ​menu​ ​on​ ​LCD​ ​panel.​ ​This​ ​should​ ​not​ ​be
necessary​ ​on​ ​the​ ​assembled​ ​printers​ ​as​ ​those​ ​are​ ​factory​ ​calibrated.

Place​ ​a​ ​sheet​ ​of​ ​a​ ​regular​ ​office​ ​paper​ ​(for​ ​example​ ​the​ ​checklist​ ​shipped​ ​with
every​ ​order)​ ​and​ ​hold​ ​it​ ​under​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​during​ ​the​ ​first​ ​round​ ​(first​ ​4​ ​points
being​ ​checked)​ ​of​ ​calibration.​ ​If​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​catches​ ​on​ ​the​ ​paper​ ​during​ ​the
process,​ ​power​ ​off​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​lower​ ​the​ ​P.I.N.D.A.​ ​probe​ ​slightly.​ ​See​ ​the
P.I.N.D.A.​ ​probe​ ​response​ ​diagram​ ​in​ ​6.3.9.2​ ​Check​ ​probe​ ​height​.​ ​The​ ​paper
will​ ​not​ ​affect​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​process.​ ​The​ ​nozzle​ ​must​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print
surface​ ​or​ ​deflect​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​by​ ​any​ ​means.​ ​If​ ​everything​ ​went​ ​correctly,​ ​continue
with​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​process.
Initiating​ ​this​ ​routine​ ​performs​ ​a​ ​series​ ​of​ ​measurements​ ​in​ ​three​ ​rounds:​ ​In​ ​the​ ​first​ ​round
without​ ​the​ ​steel​ ​sheet​​ ​installed​ ​4​ ​sensor​ ​points​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​are​ ​searched​ ​for​ ​carefully
as​ ​to​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​by​ ​the​ ​nozzle.​ ​In​ ​the​ ​second​ ​round,​ ​the​ ​point​ ​locations​ ​are
improved.​ ​In​ ​the​ ​last​ ​round​ ​with​ ​the​ ​steel​ ​sheet​​ ​on​ ​the​ ​height​ ​above​ ​the​ ​9​ ​sensor​ ​points​ ​is
measured​ ​and​ ​stored​ ​into​ ​a​ ​non-volatile​ ​memory​ ​for​ ​reference,​ ​this​ ​finished​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​axis
calibration.
At​ ​the​ ​start​ ​of​ ​the​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​procedure​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​homes​ ​X​ ​and​ ​Y​ ​axis.​ ​After​ ​that,​ ​Z
axis​ ​will​ ​begin​ ​to​ ​move​ ​up​ ​until​ ​both​ ​sides​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​printed​ ​parts​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top.
Please​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​axis​ ​went​ ​all​ ​the​ ​way​ ​up​ ​and​ ​you​ ​heard​ ​a​ ​rattling​ ​sound​ ​as​ ​the​ ​Z
stepper​ ​motors​ ​skip​ ​steps.This​ ​procedure​ ​ensures,​ ​that​ ​1)​ ​the​ ​X​ ​axis​ ​is​ ​perfectly​ ​horizontal,
17

2)​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​in​ ​a​ ​known​ ​distance​ ​from​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed.​ ​In​ ​case​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​carriage​ ​did​ n
​ ot
touch​ ​the​ ​end​ ​stoppers,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​could​ ​not​ ​possibly​ ​know​ ​the​ ​height​ ​of​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle
above​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​it​ ​could,​ ​therefore,​ ​crash​ ​into​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​during​ ​the​ ​first​ ​round​ ​of
the​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration​ ​procedure.
The​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​procedure​ ​also​ ​prompts​ ​you​ ​to​ ​"Please​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​for
calibration.​ ​Click​ ​when​ ​done."
If​ ​this​ ​advice​ ​is​ ​not​ ​followed​ ​and​ ​there​ ​is​ ​a​ ​plastic​ ​debris​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle,​ ​then​ ​the​ ​debris
may​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​or​ ​even​ ​push​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​away​ ​from​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe,​ ​so​ ​the
PINDA​ ​probe​ ​will​ ​not​ ​trigger​ ​properly​ ​and​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​will​ ​fail.
After​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​is​ ​passed,​ ​the​ ​values​ ​can​ ​be​ ​reviewed​ ​for​ ​tweaking​ ​later.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​get
your​ ​axes​ ​perpendicular​​ ​or​ s
​ lightly​ ​skewed​,​ ​nothing​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​tweaked​ ​as​ ​printer​ ​will
perform​ ​with​ ​the​ ​best​ ​accuracy.​ ​Learn​ ​more​ ​in​ ​chapter​ ​8.3​ ​View​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​details
(Optional)​​ ​under​​ ​8​ ​Advanced​ ​calibration​.
6.3.5.1​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​e​rror​ ​messages​ ​and​ ​resolution​ ​(kit​ ​only)
1) XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​failed.​ ​Bed​ ​calibration​ ​point​ ​was​ ​not​ ​found.
Calibration​ ​routine​ ​did​ ​not​ ​find​ ​a​ ​bed​ ​sensor​ ​point.​ ​The​ ​printer​ ​stops​ ​close​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed
point,​ ​which​ ​it​ ​failed​ ​to​ ​detect.​ ​Please​ ​verify,​ ​that​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​assembled​ ​correctly,
that​ ​all​ ​axes​ ​move​ ​freely,​ ​the​ ​pulleys​ ​do​ ​not​ ​slip​ ​and​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​clean.​ ​If
everything​ ​looks​ ​good,​ ​re-run​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration​ ​and​ ​verify​ ​with​ ​a​ ​sheet​ ​of​ ​paper
between​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​that​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​does​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print
bed​ ​during​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​routine.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​feel​ ​a​ ​friction​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​against​ ​the​ ​sheet
of​ ​paper​ ​and​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​clean,​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​screw​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​slightly​ ​lower
and​ ​re-run​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration.
2) XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​failed.​ ​Please​ ​consult​ ​the​ ​manual.
The​ ​calibration​ ​points​ ​were​ ​found​ ​in​ ​positions​ ​far​ ​from​ ​what​ ​should​ ​be​ ​expected​ ​for​ ​a
properly​ ​assembled​ ​printer.​ ​Please​ ​follow​ ​the​ ​instructions​ ​of​ ​case​ ​1).
3) XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​ok.​ ​X/Y​ ​axes​ ​are​ ​perpendicular.​ ​Congratulations!
Congratulations,​ ​you​ ​built​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​precisely,​ ​your​ ​X/Y​ ​axes​ ​are​ ​perpendicular.
4) XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​all​ ​right.​ ​X/Y​ ​axes​ ​are​ ​slightly​ ​skewed.​ ​Good​ ​job!
Good​ ​job,​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​axes​ ​are​ ​not​ ​precisely​ ​perpendicular,​ ​but​ ​still​ ​quite​ ​all​ ​right.​ ​The
firmware​ ​will​ ​correct​ ​for​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​skew​ ​during​ ​normal​ ​printing,​ ​so​ ​boxes​ ​will​ ​be​ ​printed
with​ ​right​ ​angles.

18

5) XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​all​ ​right.​ ​A​ ​skew​ ​will​ ​be​ ​corrected​ ​automatically.
You​ ​may​ ​consider​ ​to​ ​re-align​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​axes​ ​(as​ ​described​ ​in​ ​the​ ​chapter​ 6
​ .3.5.1​ ​Y
axis​ ​alignment​)​.​ ​Still​ ​the​ ​firmware​ ​will​ ​correct​ ​the​ ​skew​ ​during​ ​normal​ ​printing​ ​and​ ​as
long​ ​as​ ​the​ ​X​ ​and​ ​Y​ ​axes​ ​move​ ​freely,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​print​ ​correctly.
During​ ​the​ ​mesh​ ​bed​ ​leveling​ ​procedure​ ​following​ ​errors​ ​may​ ​be​ ​reported​ ​on​ ​the​ ​display.
1) Bed​ ​leveling​ ​failed.​ ​Sensor​ ​disconnected​ ​or​ ​cable​ ​broken.​ ​Waiting​ ​for​ ​reset.
Verify,​ ​whether​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​cable​ ​is​ ​plugged​ ​into​ ​the​ ​RAMBo​ ​board​ ​correctly.​ ​If
it​ ​is​ ​the​ ​case,​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​is​ ​broken​ ​and​ ​it​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​replaced.
2) Bed​ ​leveling​ ​failed.​ ​Sensor​ ​didn’t​ ​trigger.​ ​Debris​ ​on​ ​nozzle?​ ​Waiting​ ​for​ ​reset.
This​ ​is​ ​a​ ​safety​ ​check​ ​to​ ​avoid​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​to​ ​crash​ ​into​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​if​ ​the​ ​PINDA
sensor​ ​stops​ ​working​ ​or​ ​something​ ​goes​ ​wrong​ ​with​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​mechanics​ ​(for
example,​ ​a​ ​pulley​ ​slips).​ ​This​ ​safety​ ​check​ ​may​ ​be​ ​triggered​ ​as​ ​well,​ ​if​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​has
been​ ​moved​ ​to​ ​an​ ​uneven​ ​surface.​ ​Before​ ​doing​ ​anything​ ​else,​ ​make​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​axis​ ​level
by​ ​going​ ​all​ ​the​ ​way​ ​up​ ​and​ ​try​ ​again.
At​ ​the​ ​end​ ​of​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​measures​ ​the​ ​reference​ ​height​ ​above
each​ ​of​ ​the​ ​9​ ​bed​ ​sensor​ ​points​ ​and​ ​stores​ ​the​ ​reference​ ​heights​ ​into​ ​a​ ​non-volatile
memory.​ ​During​ ​the​ ​normal​ ​bed​ ​leveling,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​expected​ ​that​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​triggers
not​ ​further​ ​than​ ​1​ ​mm​ ​from​ ​the​ ​reference​ ​value,​ ​therefore​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​not​ ​allowed​ ​to
move​ ​more​ ​than​ ​1​ ​mm​ ​below​ ​the​ ​reference​ ​value​ ​during​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​calibration.
If​ ​you​ ​moved​ ​the​ ​printer,​ ​you​ ​may​ ​need​ ​to​ ​re-run​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​calibration​ ​to​ ​sample​ ​new
reference​ ​Z​ ​height​ ​values​ ​reflecting​ ​the​ ​twist​ ​and​ ​bend​ ​of​ ​the​ ​table​ ​surface​ ​the​ ​printer
is​ ​sitting​ ​on.​ ​If​ ​that​ ​does​ ​not​ ​help,​ ​please​ ​verify,​ ​that​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​is​ ​aligned​ ​with
the​ ​sensor​ ​points​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​during​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​Z​ ​calibration.​ ​The​ ​alignment​ ​shall
be​ ​ensured​ ​by​ ​the​ ​automatic​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration​ ​routine.​ ​If​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​is​ ​no​ ​more
aligned​ ​during​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​calibration​ ​over​ ​time,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​possible,​ ​that​ ​a​ ​pulley​ ​is​ ​slipping​ ​or
something​ ​on​ ​the​ ​machine​ ​frame​ ​got​ ​loose.
3) Bed​ ​leveling​ ​failed.​ ​Sensor​ ​triggered​ ​too​ ​high.​ ​Waiting​ ​for​ ​reset.
Similar​ ​to​ ​case​ ​2).​ ​This​ ​time​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​sensor​ ​triggered​ ​more​ ​than​ ​1​ ​mm​ ​above​ ​the
reference​ ​height.​ ​Before​ ​doing​ ​anything​ ​else,​ ​make​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​axis​ ​level​ ​by​ ​going​ ​all​ ​the
way​ ​up​ ​and​ ​try​ ​again.

19

6.3.6​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z
Calibrate​ ​Z​ ​is​ ​located​ ​in​ ​Calibration​​ ​menu.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​always​ ​done​ ​with​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​on.​​ ​It​ ​should
be​ ​performed​ ​whenever​ ​you​ ​move​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​to​ ​different​ ​location.​ ​It​ ​saves​ ​the​ ​heights​ ​of​ ​all
9​ ​calibration​ ​points​ ​in​ ​non-volatile​ ​memory.​ ​Stored​ ​information​ ​is​ ​used​ ​every​ ​time​ ​mesh​ ​bed
leveling​ ​is​ ​called​ ​during​ ​a​ ​print.​ ​When​ ​the​ ​measured​ ​values​ ​are​ ​vastly​ ​different​ ​to​ ​the​ ​stored
value,​ ​print​ ​is​ ​canceled​ ​as​ ​it​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​indicator​ ​something​ ​is​ ​wrong.​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z​ ​is​ ​a​ ​part​ ​of
Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​routine​ ​so​ ​there’s​ ​no​ ​need​ ​to​ ​run​ ​it​ ​after​ ​successful​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ.
It​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​practice​ ​to​ ​run​ ​this​ ​procedure​ ​every​ ​time​ ​you​ ​travel​ ​or​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​shipped​ ​as​ ​the
geometry​ ​might​ ​change​ ​slightly​ ​and​ ​cause​ ​an​ ​error.
At​ ​the​ ​start​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​calibration​ ​procedure​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​homes​ ​X​ ​and​ ​Y​ ​axis.​ ​After​ ​that,​ ​Z​ ​axis
will​ ​begin​ ​to​ ​move​ ​up​ ​until​ ​both​ ​sides​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​printed​ ​parts​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top.
Please​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​axis​ ​went​ ​all​ ​the​ ​way​ ​up​ ​and​ ​you​ ​heard​ ​a​ ​rattling​ ​sound​ ​as​ ​the​ ​Z
stepper​ ​motors​ ​skip​ ​steps.​ ​This​ ​procedure​ ​ensures,​ ​that​ ​1)​ ​the​ ​X​ ​axis​ ​is​ ​perfectly​ ​horizontal,
2)​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​in​ ​a​ ​known​ ​distance​ ​from​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed.​ ​In​ ​case​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​carriage​ ​did​ n
​ ot
touch​ ​the​ ​end​ ​stoppers,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​could​ ​not​ ​possibly​ ​know​ ​the​ ​height​ ​of​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle
above​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​it​ ​could​ ​therefore​ ​crash​ ​into​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​during​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​calibration
procedure.
The​ ​Z​ ​calibration​ ​procedure​ ​also​ ​prompts​ ​you​ ​to​ ​"Please​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​for​ ​calibration.
Click​ ​when​ ​done."
If​ ​this​ ​advice​ ​is​ ​not​ ​followed​ ​and​ ​there​ ​is​ ​a​ ​plastic​ ​debris​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle,​ ​then​ ​the​ ​debris
may​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​or​ ​even​ ​push​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​away​ ​from​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe,​ ​so​ ​the
PINDA​ ​probe​ ​will​ ​not​ ​trigger​ ​properly​ ​and​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​will​ ​fail.

20

6.3.7​ ​Loading​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder
●

●

●

You​ ​need​ ​to​ ​preheat​​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​before​ ​inserting​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​(and​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​too​ ​if​ ​you
like​ ​to​ ​print​​ ​right​ ​away).​ ​The​ ​temperature​ ​depends​ ​on​ ​the​ ​material​​ ​used.​ ​Detailed
information​ ​about​ ​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​bed​ ​temperatures​ ​are​ ​described​ ​at​ ​chapter​ ​11
Materials​.
Press​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​to​ ​enter​ ​the​ ​main​ ​menu​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD.​ ​Rotate​ ​the​ ​button​ ​to​ ​choose
Preheat​​ ​option​ ​and​ ​confirm​ ​by​ ​pressing​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob.​ ​Next​ ​you​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​material
you​ ​will​ ​print​​ ​from.​ ​Choose​ ​a​ ​material​​ ​then​ ​confirm​ ​with​ ​LCD-knob.​ ​The​ ​nozzle​ ​and
heatbed​​ ​will​ ​heat​ ​to​ ​the​ ​requested​ ​temperature.
Press​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel​ ​to​ ​enter​ ​the​ ​main​ ​menu.​ ​Insert​ ​the​ f​ ilament​​ ​to
the​ ​extruder,​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​Load​​ ​filament​​ ​option​ ​in​ ​the​ ​menu​ ​and​ ​press​ ​the​ ​button​ ​to
confirm.​ ​Filament​ ​is​ ​then​ ​loaded​ ​to​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​by​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​stepper
automatically.​ ​You​ ​should​ ​cut​​ ​the​ ​top​ ​of​ ​the​ f​ ilament​​ ​as​ ​shown​ ​in​ ​the​ ​picture​ ​below.

Pict.​ ​8​ ​-​ ​Loading​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​to​ ​the​ ​extruder
●
●

Check​ ​if​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​is​ ​flowing​ ​from​ ​the​ ​nozzle​.
If​ ​you​ ​change​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​for​ ​a​ ​new​ ​one​ ​do​ ​not​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​completely​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​old
filament​​ ​before​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​by​ ​extruding​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​from​ ​Settings​ ​-​ ​Move​ ​axis​ ​Extruder​ ​until​ ​the​ ​color​ ​is​ ​completely​ ​changed.

If​ ​your​ ​filament​ ​is​ ​running​ ​out​ ​during​ ​a​ ​print,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​easily​ ​change​ ​it​ ​for​ ​a​ ​new​ ​spool.​ ​Just​ ​go
to​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu,​ ​select​ ​Tweak​​ ​submenu​ ​and​ ​press​ ​Change​ ​filament​.​ ​Printer​ ​will​ ​pause,​ ​go
out​ ​of​ ​the​ ​print​ ​area,​ ​unload​ ​the​ ​old​ ​filament​ ​and​ ​guide​ ​you​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​what​ ​to​ ​do.​ ​You​ ​can
even​ ​insert​ ​filament​ ​of​ ​different​ ​color​ ​and​ ​make​ ​your​ ​prints​ ​more​ ​colorful.​ ​Check​ ​out​ ​chapter
10.6​ ​Printing​ ​in​ ​color​ ​with​ ​ColorPrint​​ ​to​ ​find​ ​out​ ​how​ ​to​ ​make​ ​more​ ​intricate​ ​color​ ​models.
Read​ ​chapter​ ​about​ ​our​ ​new​ ​12.3​ ​Filament​ ​sensor​​ ​and​ ​it’s​ ​functions.​ ​Autoloading​ ​of
the​ ​filament,​ ​when​ ​inserted​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​body​ ​is​ ​a​ ​planned​ ​feature.
21

6.3.7.1​ ​Unloading​ ​the​ ​filament
Similar​ ​procedure​ ​to​ ​the​ ​loading​ ​operation.​ ​Preheat​​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​for​ ​material​ ​you​ ​used​ ​last
time​ ​(pre​ ​assembled​ ​printers​ ​are​ ​shipped​ ​with​ ​PLA).​ ​Wait​ ​for​ ​temperatures​ ​to​ ​stabilize​ ​and
use​ ​Unload​ ​filament​ ​option​ ​from​ ​the​ ​menu.

6.3.8​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​ ​(kit​ ​only)

Now​ ​we​ ​will​ ​finally​ ​calibrate​ ​the​ ​distance​ ​between​ ​the​ ​tip​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​the​ ​probe.
Check​ ​if​ ​your​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean!​ ​You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​instructions​ ​how​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​it​ ​in
the​ ​chapter​ ​6.3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​preparation​.​ ​Don't​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​complete​ ​6.3.5
Calibrate​ ​XYZ​​ ​chapter​ ​or​ ​you​ ​can​ ​permanently​ ​damage​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface​!
You​ ​can​ ​launch​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​from​ ​menu​ ​Calibration​ ​->​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​cal.
The​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​probe​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​start​ ​printing​ ​zig​ ​zag​ ​pattern​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.​ ​The
nozzle​ ​will​ ​be​ ​at​ ​the​ ​height​ ​based​ ​on​ ​the​ ​P.I.N.D.A​ ​probe​ ​setting,​ ​it​ ​must​ ​not​ ​by​ ​any​ ​means
touch​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.

Pict.​ ​9​ ​-​ ​How​ ​to​ ​tune​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​height​ ​live​ ​during​ ​the​ ​test​ ​print.​ ​Note:​ ​-0.640​ ​mm​ ​is​ ​only​ ​for
illustration.​ ​Your​ ​setting​ ​will​ ​be​ ​different!
22

Observe​ ​the​ ​line​ ​which​ ​is​ ​being​ ​extruded​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.​ ​New​ ​menu​ ​will​ ​automatically
show​ ​up​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​tune​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​height​ ​live​ ​during​ ​the​ ​test​ ​print.​ ​The​ ​point​ ​is​ ​to​ ​lower
the​ ​nozzle​ ​until​ ​the​ ​extruded​ ​plastic​ ​sticks​ ​nicely​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​you​ ​can​ ​see​ ​it​ ​is​ ​being
slightly​ ​squished.​ ​Set​ ​value​ ​should​ ​not​ ​exceed​ ​ ​-1​ ​mm,​ i​ f​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​adjust​ ​it​ ​more,​ ​move
the​ ​probe​ ​slightly​ ​higher.
Loosen​ ​the​ ​two​ ​screws​ ​on​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​holder​ ​to​ ​make​ ​adjustments.​ B
​ y​ ​rotating​ ​the​ ​probe
counter​ ​clockwise,​ ​it​ ​will​ ​raise​ ​at​ ​1mm​ ​per​ ​turn.​​ ​It​ ​is​ ​very​ ​handy​ ​for​ ​precise​ ​adjustments,
but​ ​it​ ​can​ ​also​ ​be​ ​pushed​ ​in​ ​and​ ​out​ ​when​ ​set​ ​screws​ ​are​ ​loosened​ ​completely.​​ ​Then​ ​rerun
Calibrate​ ​Z​ ​followed​ ​by​ ​the​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​ ​again.

Pict.​ ​10​ ​-​ ​The​ ​properly​ ​tuned​ ​first​ ​layer
6.3.8.4​ ​Bed​ ​level​ ​correction​​ ​(kit​ ​only)

A​ ​bed​ ​level​ ​correction​ ​is​ ​an​ ​advanced​ ​feature​ ​is​ ​designed​ ​to​ ​allow​ ​advanced​ ​users​ ​to​ ​correct
for​ ​the​ ​slightest​ ​imperfections​ ​in​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer.​ ​This​ ​feature​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​in​ C
​ alibration​ ​Bed​ ​level​ ​correction.​​ ​For​ ​example​ ​if​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer​ ​seems​ ​to​ ​be​ ​ever​ ​so​ ​slightly​ ​more
squished​ ​on​ ​the​ ​right​ ​side,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​virtually​ ​raise​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​by​ +
​ 20​​ ​microns​ ​on​ ​the​ ​right
side.​ ​Settings​ ​are​ ​available​ ​for​ ​Left,​ ​Right,​ ​Front​ ​and​ ​Back.​ ​The​ ​limit​ ​is​ ​+-50​ ​microns​ ​and
even​ ​+-20​ ​microns​ ​can​ ​make​ ​a​ ​huge​ ​difference.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​are​ ​using​ ​this​ ​function,​ ​do​ ​small
incremental​ ​changes.​ ​Negative​ ​value​ ​will​ ​act​ ​as​ ​lowering​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​in​ ​the​ ​selected​ ​direction.

6.3.9​ ​Fine-tuning​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer
6.3.9.1​ ​Print​ ​prusa​ ​logo

After​ ​finishing​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​gcode,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​idea​ ​to​ ​print​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​object.​ ​The​ ​Prusa
gcode​ ​from​ ​the​ ​supplied​ ​SD​ ​card​ ​is​ ​a​ ​great​ ​example.​ ​The​ L
​ ive​ ​adjust​ ​Z​ ​function​ ​(described
in​ ​6.3.8.​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​)​ ​works​ ​during​ ​every​ ​print,​ ​so​ ​you​ ​can​ ​finetune​ ​at​ ​any​ ​point.
You​ ​can​ ​see​ ​the​ ​properly​ ​tuned​ ​first​ ​layer​ ​on​ ​the​ ​Pict.​ ​11.
Calibration​ ​might​ ​be​ ​slightly​ ​different​ ​for​ ​different​ ​steel​ ​print​ ​sheets​ ​as​ ​the​ ​coating
thickness​ ​varies.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​practice​ ​to​ ​check​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer​ ​and​ ​adjust​ ​accordingly
with​ ​Live​ ​adjust​ ​Z​ ​when​ ​switching​ ​between​ ​different​ ​types​ ​of​ ​steel​ ​sheets.
23

Pict.​ ​11​ ​-​ ​Perfect​ ​Prusa​ ​logo​ ​first​ ​layer

6.3.9.2​ ​Check​ ​probe​ ​height​​ ​(kit​ ​only)
If​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer​ ​seems​ ​inconsistent​ ​between​ ​multiple​ ​prints,​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​might​ ​be
too​ ​high.​ ​Lower​ ​it​ ​slightly.​ ​Loosen​ ​the​ ​two​ ​screws​ ​on​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​holder​ ​to​ ​make
adjustments.​ ​By​ ​rotating​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​clockwise,​ ​it​ ​will​ ​lower​ ​at​ ​1mm​ ​per​ ​turn.​​ ​It
is​ ​very​ ​handy​ ​for​ ​precise​ ​adjustments,​ ​but​ ​it​ ​can​ ​also​ ​be​ ​pushed​ ​in​ ​and​ ​out​ ​when​ ​set​ ​screws
are​ ​loosened​ ​completely.​ ​Then​ ​try​ ​again​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​.​ ​Keep​ ​in​ ​mind,​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​must​ ​be
always​ ​higher​ ​than​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​tip,​ ​otherwise​ ​it​ ​will​ ​catch​ ​on​ ​prints.

Pict.​ ​12​ ​-​ ​Probe​ ​response​ ​diagram.

Now​ ​you​ ​are​ ​done!

24

7​ ​Printing
●

Make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​are​ ​heated​ ​to​ ​the​ ​desired​ ​temperature.​ ​If​ ​you
forget​ ​to​ ​preheat​​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​before​ ​printing,​​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​will
automatically​ ​check​ ​the​ ​temperatures​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​the​ ​bed;​ ​printing​​ ​will​ ​start
when​ ​desired​ ​temperature​ ​is​ ​reached​ ​-​ ​it​ ​can​ ​take​ ​several​ ​minutes.​ ​However,​ ​we
recommend​ ​preheating​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​beforehand​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​6.3.7
Loading​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder​.
Do​ ​not​ ​let​ ​the​ ​preheated​ ​printer​ ​idle.​ ​When​ ​a​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​preheated​ ​and​ ​non-printing
material​ ​in​ ​an​ ​extruder​ ​degrades​ ​over​ ​time​ ​-​ ​it​ ​may​ ​cause​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​to​ ​jam​ ​up.

●
●

Watch​ ​the​ ​first​ ​few​ ​printed​ ​layers​ ​to​ ​be​ ​sure​ ​filament​​ ​has​ ​attached​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed
properly​​ ​(5​ ​to​ ​10​ ​minutes).
Press​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​and​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​Print​​ ​from​ ​SD​ ​option​ ​from​ ​menu,​ ​press​ ​to
confirm​ ​and​ ​pick​ ​the​ ​desired​ ​model​​ ​model_name.gcode​.​ ​Printer​ ​will​ ​start​ ​printing​​ ​the
object.
The​ ​filename​ ​(.gcode)​ ​must​ ​not​ ​contain​ ​any​ ​special​ ​characters​​ ​otherwise​ ​the
printer​​ ​is​ ​not​ ​able​ ​to​ ​display​ ​the​ ​file​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD.

7.1​ ​Removing​ ​objects​ ​from​ ​the​ ​printer.
Removing​ ​prints​ ​from​ ​the​ ​build​ ​plate​ ​is​ ​much​ ​easier​ ​with​ ​the​ ​ability​ ​to​ ​remove​ ​and​ ​bend​ ​the
build​ ​plate.​ ​Different​ ​thermal​ ​expansion​ ​of​ ​the​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​and​ ​plastics​ ​used​ ​in​ ​3D​ ​printing
also​ ​helps​ ​with​ ​detaching​ ​prints​ ​after​ ​the​ ​plate​ ​has​ ​cooled​ ​down.
●

●

When​ ​printing​ ​is​ ​finished​ ​let​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​heatbed​ ​cool​ ​down​ ​before​ ​removing​ ​the
printed​ ​object.​ ​Always​ ​handle​ ​the​ ​printed​ ​objects​ ​when​ ​temperature​ ​of​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​and
nozzle​ ​drop​ ​to​ ​the​ ​room​ ​temperature,​ ​when​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​is​ ​hot​ ​objects​ ​are​ ​very​ ​hard​ ​to
remove.​ ​Remove​ ​the​ ​steel​ ​sheet​ ​from​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​bend​ ​it​ ​slightly,​ ​prints​ ​should
pop​ ​off.
If​ ​you​ ​experience​ ​any​ ​troubles​ ​removing​ ​the​ ​object​ ​(especially​ ​the​ ​small​ ​ones)​ ​you
can​ ​use​ ​a​ ​flat​ ​tool​ ​like​ ​a​ ​spatula​ ​with​ ​rounded​ ​corners​ ​to​ ​prevent​ ​damage​ ​of​ ​PEI​.
Slide​ ​the​ ​spatula​ ​under​ ​the​ ​corner​ ​of​ ​the​ ​object​ ​and​ ​gently​ ​push,​ ​until​ ​the​ ​print​ ​pops
off.

Pict.​ ​13​ ​-​ ​Removing​ ​the​ ​model​ ​from​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​by​ ​bending​ ​the​ ​steel​ ​sheet

25

7.2​ ​Printer​ ​Control
There​ ​are​ ​two​ ​ways​ ​controlling​ ​the​ ​printer​.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​use​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel​ ​integrated​ ​with​ ​the
printer​​ ​or​ ​you​ ​can​ ​connect​​ ​your​ ​computer​ ​with​ ​USB​ ​cable.​ ​We​ ​suggest​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel
because​ ​of​ ​its​ ​speed​​ ​and​ ​reliability,​ ​and​ ​moreover​ ​you​ ​do​ ​not​ ​rely​ ​on​ ​a​ ​computer.

7.2.1​ ​LCD​ ​screen
●

Main​ ​screen​ ​is​ ​an​ ​information​ ​screen​ ​displaying​ ​the​ ​most​ ​important​ ​details.​ ​These
are​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​the​ ​heatbed​​ ​(1,​ ​2),​ ​printing​​ ​time​ ​(3)​ ​and​ ​the
actual​ ​Z-axis​ ​position​ ​(5).

Pict.​ ​14​ ​-​ ​LCD​ ​layout
1. Nozzle​ ​temperature​ ​(actual​ ​/​ ​desired​ ​temperature)
2. Heatbed​ ​temperature​ ​(actual​ ​/​ ​desired​ ​temperature)
3. Progress​ ​of​ ​printing​​ ​in​ ​%​ ​-​ ​shown​ ​only​ ​during​ ​the​ ​printing
4. Status​ ​bar​ ​(Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​ready​ ​/​ ​Heating​​ ​/​ ​model_name.gcode,​ ​etc.)
5. Z-axis​​ ​position
6. Printing​ ​speed
7. Elapsed​ ​printing​​ ​time​ ​-​ ​shown​ ​only​ ​when​ ​printing

26

7.2.2​ ​Print​ ​statistics
The​ ​printer​ ​tracks​ ​printing​ ​statistics.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​access​ ​this​ ​option​ ​during​ ​a​ ​print,​ ​you​ ​will​ ​see
statistics​ ​for​ ​the​ ​running​ ​print.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​do​ ​so​ ​while​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​idle,​ ​you​ ​will​ ​see​ ​the​ ​lifetime
statistics.​ ​Both​ ​filament​ ​usage​ ​and​ ​print​ ​time​ ​are​ ​being​ ​tracked.

Pict.​ ​15​ ​-​ ​Print​ ​statistics

7.2.3​ ​Fail​ ​stats
Printer​ ​keeps​ ​statistics​ ​about​ ​the​ ​failures​ ​it​ ​went​ ​thru​ ​and​ ​recovered​ ​during​ ​the​ ​last​ ​print.​ ​It​ ​is
useful​ ​to​ ​asses​ ​the​ ​long​ ​print,​ ​for​ ​example​ ​over​ ​a​ ​night​ ​or​ ​a​ ​weekend​ ​if​ ​everything​ ​ran
smoothly.​ ​Fail​ ​stats​ ​are​ ​placed​ ​at​ ​the​ ​bottom​ ​of​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu.
Failures​ ​which​ ​are​ ​detected:
●
●
●

Filament​ ​runout
Power​ ​panic
Lost​ ​steps​ ​/​ ​shifted​ ​layers

7.2.4​ ​Normal​ ​vs.​ ​Stealth​ ​mode
The​ ​printer​ ​offers​ ​two​ ​print​ ​modes.​ ​Normal​ ​mode​​ ​is​ ​required​ ​for​ ​the​ ​detection​ ​of​ ​lost​ ​steps
(shifted​ ​layers)​ ​while​ ​still​ ​being​ ​quieter​ ​that​ ​silent​ ​mode​ ​on​ ​MK2/S.​ ​The​ ​second​ ​is​ ​called
Stealth​ ​mode​​ ​and​ ​utilizes​ ​Trinamic​ ​StealthChop​ ​technology​ ​making​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​almost
inaudible​ ​with​ ​print​ ​cooling​ ​fan​ ​being​ ​the​ ​noisiest​ ​part​ ​of​ ​the​ ​printer.​ ​Stealth​ ​mode​ ​however
doesn’t​ ​provide​ ​lost​ ​step​ ​detection.

7.2.5​ ​Factory​ ​reset
The​ ​factory​ ​reset​ ​is​ ​used​ ​when​ ​troubleshooting​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​resetting​ ​it​ ​to​ ​the​ ​factory
state.
Entering​ ​the​ ​factory​ ​reset​ ​menu:
1. Press​ ​and​ ​release​ ​the​ ​reset​ ​button​​ ​(marked​ ​X​ ​and​ ​positioned​ ​under​ ​the​ ​control
knob​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel)
2. Press​ ​and​ ​hold​ ​the​ ​control​ ​knob​​ ​until​ ​you​ ​hear​ ​a​ ​beep
3. Release​ ​the​ ​control​ ​knob
Options:
● Language​​ ​option​ ​resets​ ​the​ ​language​ ​preference.
27

●
●

●

Statistics​ ​will​ ​erase​ ​all​ ​the​ ​recorded​ ​print​ ​time​ ​and​ ​material​ ​from​ ​the​ ​memory.
Shipping​ ​prep​​ ​which​ ​resets​ ​only​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​language​ ​selection.​ ​All​ ​the​ ​calibration
data​ ​including​ ​the​ ​Live​ ​adjust​ ​Z​ ​remain​ ​intact.​ ​Even​ ​though​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​data​ ​are
still​ ​present​ ​and​ ​functional,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​prompt​ ​user​ ​once​ ​to​ ​run​ ​the​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z
function.​ ​This​ ​light​ ​factory​ ​reset​ ​is​ ​mainly​ ​used​ ​for​ ​resetting​ ​of​ ​assembled​ ​printers
before​ ​shipping​ ​out​ ​of​ ​the​ ​factory,​ ​and​ ​users​ ​are​ ​expected​ ​to​ ​select​ ​their​ ​language
and​ ​run​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z​ ​after​ ​unpacking.
All​ ​data​​ ​which​ ​resets​ ​everything​ ​including​ ​all​ ​calibration​ ​data​ ​and​ ​whole​ ​EEPROM​ ​is
cleaned.​ ​After​ ​this​ ​reset,​ ​user​ ​is​ ​expected​ ​to​ ​go​ ​through​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​flow​ ​again,
except​ ​setting​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​height.

If​ ​you​ ​experience​ ​random​ ​glitches​ ​after​ ​firmware​ ​update​ ​or​ ​after​ ​printer​ ​upgrade,​ ​use​ ​the​ A
​ ll
data​​ ​option.

7.2.6​ ​SD​ ​card​ ​sorting
Files​ ​on​ ​the​ ​SD​ ​card​ ​can​ ​be​ ​sorted,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​change​ ​the​ ​sorting​ ​type​ ​in​ ​Settings​ ​->​ ​Sort:
[Type]​ ​you​ ​can​ ​select​ ​to​ ​sort​ ​by​ ​name,​ ​by​ ​date​ ​or​ ​no​ ​sorting.​ ​The​ ​best​ ​is​ ​by​ ​time​ ​where
newest​ ​files​ ​are​ ​on​ ​the​ ​top.
Folders​ ​are​ ​shown​ ​on​ ​the​ ​top​ ​of​ ​the​ ​SD​ ​card​ ​menu​ ​and​ ​then​ ​other​ ​files​ ​follow.
Maximum​ ​number​ ​of​ ​files​ ​which​ ​can​ ​be​ ​sorted​ ​is​ ​100.​ ​If​ ​there​ ​are​ ​more,​ ​some​ ​of​ ​them​ ​will
remain​ ​unsorted.

Pict.​ ​16​ ​-​ ​SD​ ​card​ ​sorting
SD​ ​card​ ​file​ ​sorting​ ​will​ ​be​ ​available​ ​from​ ​FW​ ​3.1.1​ ​final.

7.2.7​ ​Testing​ ​if​ ​file​ ​(.gcode)​ ​is​ ​complete
The​ ​printer​ ​automatically​ ​looks​ ​for​ ​common​ ​g-codes​ ​which​ ​indicate​ ​the​ ​end​ ​of​ ​the​ ​generated
file.​ ​If​ ​they​ ​are​ ​not​ ​detected,​ ​you​ ​will​ ​get​ ​a​ ​warning.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​still​ ​continue​ ​printing​ ​if​ ​you​ ​wish,
but​ ​at​ ​least​ ​checking​ ​the​ ​file​ ​should​ ​be​ ​done.
28

Pict.​ ​17​ ​-​ ​Incomplete​ ​file​ ​warning
.gcode​ ​file​ ​testing​ ​will​ ​be​ ​available​ ​from​ ​FW​ ​3.1.1​ ​final.

7.2.8​ ​LCD​ ​layout
Items​​ ​not​ ​mentioned​ ​below​ ​are​ ​not​ ​used​ ​for​ ​the​ ​common​ p
​ rint​​ ​setup​ ​-​ ​you​ ​should​ ​not​ ​change
any​ ​of​ ​the​ ​unmentioned​ ​items​​ ​unless​ ​you​ ​are​ ​absolutely​ ​sure​ ​what​ ​you​ ​are​ ​doing.
❏ Info​ ​screen
❏ Live​ ​adjust​ ​Z​ ​(during​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​process​ ​only)
❏ Tune​ ​(during​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​process​ ​only)
❏ Speed
❏ Nozzle
❏ Bed
❏ Fan​ ​speed
❏ Flow
❏ Change​ ​filament
❏ Mode
❏ Pause​ ​print​​ ​(during​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​process​ ​only)
❏ Stop​ ​print​​ ​(during​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​process​ ​only)
❏ Preheat
❏ PLA​ ​-​ ​215/60
❏ PET​ ​-​ ​240/90
❏ ABS​ ​-​ ​255/100
❏ HIPS​ ​-​ ​220/100
❏ PP​ ​-​ ​254/100
❏ FLEX​ ​-​ ​230/50
❏ Cooldown
❏ Print​ ​from​ ​SD
❏ Load​ ​filament
29

❏ Unload​ ​filament
❏ Settings
❏ Temperature
❏ Nozzle
❏ Bed
❏ Fan​ ​speed
❏ Move​ ​axis
❏ Move​ ​X
❏ Move​ ​Y
❏ Move​ ​Z
❏ Extruder
❏ Disable​ ​steppers
❏ Filament​ ​sensor​ ​-​ ​On​ ​/​ ​Off
❏ Fans​ ​check​ ​-​ ​On​ ​/​ ​Off
❏ Crash​ ​detection​ ​-​ ​On​ ​/​ ​Off
❏ Temperature​ ​calibration​ ​-​ ​On​ ​/​ ​Off
❏ Mode​ ​-​ ​Normal​ ​/​ ​Stealth
❏ Live​ ​adjust​ ​Z
❏ Select​ ​language
❏ SD​ ​card​ ​-​ ​Normal​ ​/​ ​FlashAir
❏ Sort​ ​-​ ​Time​ ​/​ ​Alphabet​ ​/​ ​None
❏ Calibration
❏ Wizard
❏ First​ ​layer​ ​calibration
❏ Auto​ ​home
❏ Selftest
❏ Calibrate​ ​XYZ
❏ Calibrate​ ​Z
❏ Mesh​ ​Bed​ ​Leveling
❏ Bed​ ​level​ ​correction

❏ PID​ ​Calibration
❏ Show​ ​end​ ​stops
❏ Reset​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration

❏ Temperature​ ​Calibration
30

❏ Statistics
❏ Support
❏ Firmware​ ​version
❏ XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​detail
❏ Extruder​ ​info
❏ Belt​ ​status
❏ Temperatures
❏ Fail​ ​stats

31

7.2.9​ ​Print​ ​speed​ ​versus​ ​print​ ​quality
Printing​ ​a​ ​small​ ​object​ ​takes​ ​a​ ​few​ ​minutes,​ ​but​ ​printing​ ​larger​ ​models​ ​are​ ​time​ ​consuming​ ​there​ ​are​ ​prints​ ​taking​ ​tens​ ​of​ ​hours.​ ​The​ ​overall​ ​printing​ ​time​ ​can​ ​be​ ​changed​ ​in​ ​different
ways.​ ​First​ ​way​ ​to​ ​alter​ ​the​ ​printing​ ​speed​ ​is​ ​changing​ ​layer​ ​height​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​-​ ​upper​ ​right
windows​ ​shows​ ​Print​ ​settings​ ​option.​ ​Default​ ​setting​ ​is​ ​0.20​ ​mm​ ​(NORMAL),​ ​you​ ​can​ ​speed
up​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​by​ ​choosing​ ​the​ ​0.35​ ​mm​ ​(FAST)​ ​option.​ ​Raising​ ​speed​ ​will​ ​result​ ​in​ ​the​ ​model
being​ ​less​ ​detailed​ ​with​ ​visible​ ​layer​ ​borders.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​prefer​ ​quality​ ​over​ ​speed,​ ​choose​ ​0.10
mm​ ​(DETAIL)​ ​option.​ ​Printing​ ​time​ ​will​ ​double​ ​but​ ​the​ ​model​ ​gets​ ​the​ ​extra​ ​detail.​ ​Again,
higher​ ​printing​ ​speed​ ​results​ ​in​ ​less​ ​detailed​ ​model
.

Pict.​ ​18​ ​-​ ​Print​ ​quality​ ​vs​ ​print​ ​time
Speed​ ​can​ ​al so​ ​be​ ​changed​ ​while​ ​printing.​ ​LCD​ ​shows​ ​the​ ​FR​ ​100​ ​%​ ​item​ ​-​ ​it’s​ ​actual​ ​print
speed​ ​(feed​ ​rate).​ ​By​ ​turning​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​clockwise​ ​you​ ​can​ ​increase​ ​the​ ​print​ ​speed​ ​up​ ​to
999​ ​%.​ ​However,​ ​we​ ​do​ ​not​ ​advise​ ​to​ ​increase​ ​the​ ​speed​ ​over​ ​200​ ​%.​ ​Watch​ ​the​ ​results​ ​of
increased​ ​speed​ ​on​ ​the​ ​printed​ ​model​ ​and​ ​adjust​ ​the​ ​speed​ ​eventually.

issue.

When​ ​increasing​ ​the​ ​speed​ ​always​ ​check​ ​the​ ​model​ ​is​ ​cooled​ ​properly​ ​-​ ​especially
when​ ​printing​ ​small​ ​object​ ​from​ ​ABS​ ​increased​ ​speed​ ​causes​ ​the​ ​distortion
(sometimes​ ​called​ ​“warping”)​ ​of​ ​the​ ​model.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​prevent​ ​this​ ​issue​ ​by​ ​printing
more​ ​similar​ ​objects​ ​together​ ​-​ ​layer​ ​printing​ ​interval​ ​is​ ​long​ ​enough​ ​to​ ​prevent​ ​this

If​ ​the​ ​model​ ​shows​ ​lower​ ​quality​ ​than​ ​desired​ ​you​ ​can​ ​decrease​ ​the​ ​printing​ ​speed​ ​-​ ​turn​ ​the
LCD-knob​ ​counterclockwise.​ ​Minimum​ ​usable​ ​printing​ ​speed​ ​is​ ​around​ ​20​ ​%​ ​of​ ​nominal
speed.

7.2.10​ ​USB​ ​cable​ ​and​ ​Pronterface
We​ ​strongly​ ​recommend​ ​to​ ​use​ ​LCD​ ​panel​ ​while​ ​printing​ ​on​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​Pronterface​ ​doesn’t​ ​support​ ​all​ ​functions​ ​of​ ​a​ ​new​ ​firmware​ ​(e.g.​ ​filament​ ​change
while​ ​printing).
Keep​ ​in​ ​mind​ ​that​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​the​ ​Pronterface​ ​the​ c
​ omputer​ ​must​ ​be​ ​connected​ ​to
the​ ​printer​​ ​during​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​printing​​ ​process​ ​-​ ​computer​ ​must​ ​be​ ​prevented​ ​from​ ​sleep,
hibernation​ ​or​ ​shutting​ ​down.​ ​Disconnecting​ ​the​ ​computer​ ​during​ ​the​ p
​ rint​​ ​ends​ ​the​ ​printing
without​ ​the​ ​option​ ​to​ ​finish​ ​the​ ​object.
32

●

Connect​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​to​ ​the​ ​computer​ ​with​ ​the​ ​USB​ ​cable.

Pict.​ ​19​ ​-​ ​You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​USB​ ​port​ ​here
●

●
●
●

●
●

Choose​ ​connection​ ​port​ ​in​ ​Pronterface​ ​(download​ ​available​ ​with​ ​the​ p
​ rinter​​ ​drivers,
see​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​9​ ​Printer​ ​drivers​):​ ​Mac​ ​users​ ​use​ ​/usbmodem​ ​port,​ ​PC​ ​Windows
ports​ ​are​ ​COM1,​ ​COM2,​ ​etc.;​ ​the​ ​correct​ ​port​ ​is​ ​displayed​ ​in​ ​device​ ​manager,​ ​Linux
users​ ​connect​​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​using​ ​the​ ​virtual​ ​serial​ ​port.​ ​When​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​is​ ​connected
click​ ​the​ ​Connect​​ ​button.​ ​Right​ ​column​ ​shows​ ​the​ ​connection​ ​information.
Next​ ​step​ ​is​ ​loading​​ ​the​ ​model​​ ​with​ ​Load​​ ​model​​ ​button​ ​and​ ​choosing​ ​the
model_name.gcode​ ​(no​ ​special​ ​symbols​ ​in​ ​file​ ​name).
You​ ​can​ ​control​ ​the​ ​movement​ ​of​ ​all​ ​printer​​ ​axes​ ​at​ ​the​ ​control​ ​area.
Next​ ​you​ ​can​ ​preheat​​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​and​ ​prepare​ ​it​ ​for​ ​the​ ​printing​.​ ​Set​ ​the​ ​temperatures
for​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​(heater)​ ​and​ ​heatbed​​ ​(bed)​ ​and​ ​click​ ​Set​ ​button.​ ​Printer​ ​starts​ ​heating
immediately.​ ​Always​ ​check​ ​that​ ​the​ ​temperatures​ ​set​ ​in​ ​Pronterface​ ​are​ ​correct
according​ ​to​ ​our​ ​material​ ​guide!
You​ ​can​ ​check​ ​the​ ​actual​ ​temperatures​ ​of​ ​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​bed​ ​in​ ​Pronterface.
When​ ​model​​ ​is​ ​loaded​ ​right​ ​column​ ​shows​ ​the​ ​estimated​​ ​print​​ ​duration:​ ​Estimated
duration​ ​(pessimistic)

33

Pict.​ ​20​ ​-​ ​Pronterface
1. Load​ ​file​​ ​button​ ​is​ ​used​ ​to​ ​load​​ ​the​ ​desired​ m
​ odel​..​ ​Model​​ ​must​ ​be​ ​in​ ​*.​ gcode​ ​file
format.
2. Choose​ ​the​ ​port​ ​printer​​ ​is​ ​connected​ ​to​ ​computer.​ ​(mostly​ ​/usbmodem​ ​for​ ​Mac,
COM1,​ ​COM2,​ ​etc​ ​for​ ​Windows​ ​PC).
3. Print​​ ​button​ ​starts​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​process.
4. Disconnect​​ ​button​ ​disconnects​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​from​ ​the​ ​computer.
5. Printer​ ​controls.​ ​Here​ ​you​ ​can​ ​manipulate​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​axes.
6. Setting​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​bed​ ​temperatures.
7. Thermometer.
8. Confirming​ ​the​ ​set​ ​temperatures,​ ​heating​​ ​starts.
9. 2D​ ​print​​ ​process​ ​preview.
10. Info​ ​panel.​ ​Estimated​ ​print​​ ​time,​ ​axis​ ​position​ ​and​ ​other​ ​info​ ​is​ ​displayed​ ​after​ ​loading
the​ ​model​.

7.3​ ​Printer​ ​addons
7.3.1​ ​Different​ ​nozzles

E3D,​ ​a​ ​UK​ ​based​ ​company,​ ​supplies​ ​hotends​ ​for​ ​the​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK3​ ​has​ ​whole
ecosystem​ ​of​ ​upgrades​ ​and​ ​addons.​ ​We​ ​support​ ​some​ ​of​ ​them.​ ​You​ ​have​ ​to​ ​use​ ​proper
preset​ ​settings​ ​for​ ​different​ ​nozzles​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​or​ ​PrusaControl.
You​ ​can​ ​check​ ​out​ ​how​ ​to​ ​change​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​in​ ​section​ 1
​ 2.6​ ​Replacing​ ​/​ ​changing​ ​the
nozzle.

34

7.3.1.1​ ​Hardened​ ​steel​ ​nozzle
Hardened​ ​steel​ ​nozzles​ ​are​ ​a​ ​must​ ​for​ ​highly​ ​abrasive​ ​materials.​ ​Regular​ ​brass​ ​nozzles​ ​will
degrade​ ​very​ ​quickly​ ​and​ ​lose​ ​their​ ​properties.
Most​ ​of​ ​the​ ​abrasive​ ​materials​ ​are​ ​composites,​ ​plastics​ ​with​ ​something​ ​mixed​ ​in.​ ​Some
examples​ ​are​ ​ColorFabb​ ​XT​ ​CF20,​ ​ColorFabb​ ​Bronzefill,​ ​ColorFabb​ ​Brassfill​ ​and​ ​some​ ​glow
in​ ​the​ ​dark​ ​filaments.​ ​Always​ ​ask​ ​your​ ​filament​ ​vendor​ ​if​ ​you​ ​are​ ​not​ ​sure.​ ​Slight
disadvantage​ ​is​ ​that​ ​some​ ​standard​ ​materials​ ​like​ ​ABS​ ​aren’t​ ​possible​ ​to​ ​print​ ​as​ ​fast​ ​as​ ​with
regular​ ​nozzle.

7.3.1.2​ ​0.25mm​ ​nozzle
To​ ​get​ ​finer​ ​detail​ ​on​ ​0.1mm​ ​or​ ​0.05mm​ ​print​ ​settings,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​use​ ​0.25mm​ ​nozzle.​ ​But​ ​use
it​ ​for​ ​only​ ​very​ ​small​ ​objects,​ ​only​ ​couple​ ​centimeters​ ​big.​ ​The​ ​print​ ​time​ ​can​ ​be​ ​considerably
longer​ ​compared​ ​to​ ​0.4mm.​ ​Ideal​ ​use​ ​is​ ​jewelery.

8​ ​Advanced​ ​Calibration
Additional​ ​calibration​ ​tools​ ​and​ ​settings​ ​for​ ​advanced​ ​users​ ​are​ ​available,​ ​but​ ​they​ ​are
entirely​ ​optional​ ​and​ ​some​ ​of​ ​them​ ​even​ ​experimental.

8.1​ ​PID​ ​tuning​ ​for​ ​Hotend​ ​(Optional)
In​ ​case​ ​you​ ​are​ ​experiencing​ ​wide​ ​swings​ ​in​ ​temperatures​ ​of​ ​your​ ​nozzle​ ​(e.g​ ​+/-​ ​5​ ​C°),​ ​you
shall​ ​do​ ​PID​ ​tuning​ ​on​ ​your​ ​printer.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​are​ ​experiencing​ ​major​ ​temperature​ ​fluctuations
higher​ ​than​ ​that,​ ​check​ ​that​ ​your​ ​hotend​ ​thermistor​ ​is​ ​properly​ ​seated​ ​in​ ​the​ ​heater​ ​block​ ​and
plugged​ ​to​ ​your​ ​EINSY​ ​board​ ​first.
You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​this​ ​feature​ ​in​ ​Calibration​ ​-​ ​PID​ ​calibration​.​ ​In​ ​this​ ​menu​ ​you​ ​have​ ​the​ ​option
to​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​for​ ​which​ ​PID​ ​will​ ​be​ ​run.​ ​Set​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​with​ ​which​ ​you
print​ ​the​ ​most​ ​as​ ​it​ ​will​ ​tune​ ​it​ ​for​ ​that​ ​the​ ​best,​ ​however,​ ​general​ ​stability​ ​will​ ​improve​ ​for​ ​all
temperatures​ ​(PLA/ABS/PETG).​ ​After​ ​that,​ ​nozzle​ ​will​ ​heat​ ​up​ ​to​ ​the​ ​set​ ​temperature​ ​in​ ​5
cycles.​ ​During​ ​cycles​ ​it​ ​is​ ​mastering​ ​the​ ​amount​ ​of​ ​power​ ​needed​ ​to​ ​reach​ ​the​ ​temperature
and​ ​maintain​ ​it.
Do​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​during​ ​this​ ​process​ ​until​ ​it​ ​is​ ​fully​ ​finished​ ​as​ ​it​ ​will​ ​reach
high​ ​temperatures!
Be​ ​aware​ ​that​ ​PID​ ​tuning​ ​is​ ​not​ ​a​ ​solution​ ​for​ ​all​ ​of​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​fluctuation​ ​issues.
Always​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​located​ ​in​ ​a​ ​room​ ​with​ ​stable​ ​ambient​ ​temperatures,
more​ ​about​ ​that​ ​in​ ​Thermal​ ​Runaway​ ​and​ ​Temperature​ ​Drops​ ​at​ ​help.prusa3d.com​.

35

8.2​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​calibration/​ ​Temp.​ ​calibration​ ​(Experimental/Optional)
All​ ​induction​ ​proximity​ ​probes​ ​drift​ ​the​ ​sensing​ ​distance​ ​with​ ​increased​ ​temperature.​ ​This
might​ ​affect​ ​the​ ​quality​ ​of​ ​the​ ​first​ ​printed​ ​layer.​ ​PINDA​ ​v2​ ​probe,​ ​included​ ​in​ ​the​ ​MK3,​ ​has
embedded​ ​thermistor​ ​inside​ ​it’s​ ​body​ ​to​ ​measure​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​and​ ​fully​ ​compensate​ ​for
the​ ​drift.
Precalibrated​ ​data​ ​table​ ​is​ ​stored​ ​in​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​calibration​ ​is​ ​active​ ​by
default.
You​ ​can​ ​re-calibrate​ ​the​ ​data​ ​table​ ​from​ ​the​ ​menu,​ ​it​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​in​ C
​ alibration​ ​-​ ​Temp.
calibration​ ​-​ ​Calibrate​.​ ​Before​ ​you​ ​do​ ​so,​ ​please​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​your​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​heatbed
are​ ​perfectly​ ​clean​ ​as​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​will​ ​be​ ​moving​ ​around​ ​heatbed​ ​during​ ​this​ ​process.
This​ ​procedure​ ​must​ ​be​ ​done​ ​in​ ​a​ ​place​ ​with​ ​normal​ ​room​ ​temperature​ ​around​ ​21°C/69°F.
Do​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​or​ ​heatbed​ ​during​ ​this​ ​process​ ​until​ ​it​ ​is​ ​fully​ ​finished​ ​as​ ​it​ ​will​ ​reach
high​ ​temperatures!
Once​ ​calibrating​ ​your​ ​PINDA​ ​probe,​ ​it​ ​will​ ​be​ ​comparing​ ​its​ ​data​ ​readings​ ​under​ ​different
temperatures​ ​and​ ​also​ ​on​ ​top​ ​of​ ​that​ ​it​ ​will​ ​include​ ​your​ ​Live​ ​Z​ ​data.​ ​This​ ​should​ ​help​ ​you​ ​to
have​ ​stable​ ​Live​ ​Z.
Still​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​your​ ​1st​ ​layer​ ​is​ ​done​ ​properly.​ ​More​ ​about​ ​that​ ​in​ ​6.3.9.​ ​Fine-tuning​ ​the
first​ ​layer

8.3​ ​View​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​details​ ​(Optional)
This​ ​feature​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​in​ ​Support​ ​->​ ​XYZ​ ​cal.​ ​Details​​ ​and​ ​provides​ ​access​ ​to​ ​more
detailed​ ​info​ ​about​ ​XYZ​ ​calibrating​ ​results.​ ​The​ ​1st​ ​screen​ ​tells​ ​you​ ​the​ ​distance​ ​of​ ​the
“perfect”​ ​position​ ​of​ ​your​ ​two​ ​front​ ​calibration​ ​points.​ ​Ideally,​ ​all​ ​of​ ​these​ ​are​ ​positive​ ​and​ ​at
least​ ​10​ ​mm​ ​or​ ​more.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​get​ ​your​ ​axes​ ​perpendicular​ ​or​ ​slightly​ ​skewed,
nothing​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​tweaked​ ​as​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​perform​ ​with​ ​the​ ​best​ ​accuracy​.

Pict.​ ​21​ ​-​ ​Distance​ ​of​ ​the​ ​front​ ​calibration​ ​point​ ​from​ ​the​ ​axis​ ​start.
36

Pressing​ ​the​ ​button​ ​will​ ​get​ ​you​ ​to​ ​the​ ​2nd​ ​screen.​ ​This​ ​screen​ ​will​ ​identify​ ​how​ ​far​ ​you​ ​are
from​ ​the​ ​perfect​ ​perpendicularity.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​measuring​ ​the​ ​skew​ ​of​ ​your​ ​X/Y​ ​axis.
Up​ ​to​ ​0.25​°​ ​=​ ​Severe​ ​skew​ ​compensating​ ​for​ ​offset​ ​of​ ​1.1​ ​mm​ ​on​ ​250​ ​mm​ ​length
Up​ ​to​ ​0.12°​ ​=​ ​Slight​ ​skew​ ​compensating​ ​for​ ​offset​ ​of​ ​0.5​ ​mm​ ​on​ ​250​ ​mm​ ​length
Under​ ​0.12°​ ​=​ ​No​ ​need​ ​to​ ​compensate​,​ ​X/Y​ ​axes​ ​are​ ​perpendicular.​ ​Congratulations!

8.4​ ​Linear​ ​Advance​ ​(Experimental)
Linear​ ​advance​ ​is​ ​a​ ​new​ ​technology​ ​which​ ​predicts​ ​the​ ​pressure​ ​build-up​ ​in​ ​the​ ​extruder
when​ ​printing​ ​at​ ​higher​ ​speeds.​ ​Firmware​ ​of​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​uses​ ​that​ ​prediction​ ​to​ ​decrease​ ​the
amount​ ​of​ ​filament​ ​extruded​ ​just​ ​before​ ​stopping​ ​a​ ​decelerating,​ ​which​ ​prevents​ ​blobs​ ​or
artifacts​ ​at​ ​the​ ​sharp​ ​corners.
If​ ​you​ ​are​ ​using​ ​different​ ​slicers​ ​than​ ​Slic3r​ ​PE​ ​or​ ​PrusaControl​ ​or​ ​you​ ​just​ ​want​ ​to
tweak​ ​and​ ​play​ ​around​ ​with​ ​different​ ​values,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​manually​ ​change​ ​the​ ​settings
in​ ​gcode​ ​script.​ ​However,​ ​i​f​ ​you​ ​do​ ​not​ ​understand​ ​the​ ​concept​ ​of​ ​gcodes​ ​yet​ ​or
never​ ​played​ ​with​ ​editing​ ​it,​ ​stop​ ​reading​ ​here​ ​and​ ​skip​ ​for​ ​another​ ​chapter.
The​ ​K​ ​values​ ​(the​ ​parameter​ ​affecting​ ​how​ ​much​ ​Linear​ ​Advance​ ​affects​ ​the​ ​print)​ ​we
measured​ ​and​ ​tested​ ​are​ ​as​ ​follows:
●
●
●
●

PLA:​ ​M900​ ​K30

ABS:​ ​M900​ ​K30
PET:​ ​M900​ ​K45

Multi​ ​material​ ​printer:​ ​M900​ ​K200​​ ​for​ ​all​ ​materials

Pict.​ ​22​ ​-​ ​How​ ​K​ ​value​ ​affects​ ​the​ ​print

37

These​ ​values​ ​are​ ​preset​ ​in​ ​our​ ​Slic3r​ ​PE.​ ​The​ ​K​ ​value​ ​is​ ​set​ ​in​ ​custom​ ​gcode​ ​section​ ​in​ ​the
Filament​ ​Settings​ ​tab​,​ ​NOT​ ​under​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​specific​ ​custom​ ​gcode.​ ​PrusaControl​ ​uses
the​ ​same​ ​K​ ​values​ ​but​ ​will​ ​not​ ​allow​ ​users​ ​editing.
Simplify3D,​ ​Cura​,​ ​…​ ​users​ ​just​ ​need​ ​to​ ​add​ ​“M900​ ​K??”​ ​into​ ​the​ ​starting​ ​gcode​ ​script.​ ​Keep
in​ ​mind​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​manually​ ​change​ ​that​ ​for​ ​different​ ​filament​ ​materials.​ ​Only​ ​Slic3r​ ​PE​ ​has
custom​ ​gcode​ ​for​ ​each​ ​filament​ ​preset​ ​and​ ​therefore​ ​K​ ​value​ ​is​ ​changed​ ​automatically.
Set​ ​the​ ​speed​ ​you​ ​want,​ ​print​ ​something​ ​(large​ ​enough​ ​for​ ​speed​ ​to​ ​show​ ​up).​ ​If​ ​sharp
corners​ ​have​ ​blobs,​ ​increase​ ​K​ ​value​.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​see​ ​missing​ ​filament,​ ​decrease​ ​the​ ​K​ ​value​.
Please​ ​note​ ​that​ ​different​ ​brands​ ​and​ ​colors​ ​of​ ​the​ ​same​ ​material​ ​may​ ​require
slightly​ ​different​ ​K​ ​value​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​at​ ​extreme​ ​speeds,​ ​however​ ​our​ ​presets
should​ ​be​ ​fine​ ​with​ ​all​ ​of​ ​them.

8.5​ ​Extruder​ ​info
Extruder​ ​info​ ​provides​ ​debug​ ​information​ ​about​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​sensors.
It​ ​provides​ ​info​ ​of:
●
●
●
●

Extruder​ ​cooling​ ​fan​ ​RPM
Print​ ​cooling​ ​fan​ ​RPM
Information​ ​of​ ​filament​ ​moving​ ​in​ ​the​ ​extruder
Illumination​ ​level​ ​of​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​sensor​​ ​-​ ​optimally​ ​below​ ​100

This​ ​information​ ​can​ ​be​ ​used​ ​to​ ​check​ ​the​ ​function​ ​of​ ​the​ ​fans​ ​and​ ​asses​ ​how​ ​well​ ​particular
filament​ ​works​ ​with​ ​the​ ​sensor.

38

9​ ​Printer​ ​drivers
Latest​ ​drivers​ ​and​ ​information​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​at​ ​http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/​.
Driver​ ​package​ ​contains​ ​following​ ​settings​ ​and​ ​programs:
PrusaControl​​ ​-​ ​preparing​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​models​ ​to​ ​.gcode​ ​format​ ​for​ ​printing.
Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition​ ​-​ ​preparing​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​models​ ​to​ ​.gcode​ ​format​ ​for​ ​printing.
Pronterface​ ​-​ ​legacy​ ​printi​ng​​ ​from​ ​a​ ​computer​ ​(in​ ​case​ ​you​ ​don’t​ ​want​ ​to​ ​print​​ ​from​ ​SD)
NetFabb​ ​-​ ​repairing​ ​the​ ​corrupted​ ​or​ ​unprintable​ ​models
Settings​ ​-​ ​optimized​​ ​print​​ ​settings​ ​for​ ​Slic3r,​ ​Cura,​ ​Simplify3D​ ​and​ ​KISSlicer
Drivers​ ​for​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​printer​ ​-​ ​Windows​ ​a​ ​Mac​ ​drivers
Test​ ​objects

10​ ​Printing​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models
10.1​ ​Where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​get​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​models?
The​ ​best​ ​way​ ​to​ ​get​ ​started​ ​with​ ​your​ ​own​ ​3D​ ​printing​​ ​is​ ​to​ ​find​ ​already​ ​created​ ​models​​ ​on
internet​​ ​-​ ​they​ ​should​ ​be​ ​in​ ​the​ ​.stl​​ ​or​ ​.obj​​ ​format​ ​.​ ​Fortunately​ ​there​ ​are​ ​a​ ​lot​ ​of​ ​fans​ ​and
there​ ​are​ ​sites​ ​from​ ​which​ ​you​ ​can​ ​download​ ​a​ ​wealth​ ​of​ ​ready-made​ ​3D​ m
​ odels​​ ​-​ ​from​ ​a
simple​ ​shaver​ ​holder​ ​to​ ​a​ ​detailed​​ ​aircraft​ ​engine​ ​model​.
3D​ ​models​​ ​are​ ​generally​ ​free​ ​to​ ​download​ ​under​ ​the​ ​Creative​ ​Commons​ ​-​ ​Attribution​ ​Non​​ ​Commercial​​ ​(​Models​​ ​not​ ​to​ ​be​ ​used​ ​commercially,​ ​you​ ​must​ ​always​ ​include​ ​the​ ​name
of​ ​the​ ​author)​ ​or​ ​for​ ​a​ ​small​ ​fee.​ ​We​ ​have​ ​selected​ ​the​ ​most​ ​interesting​ ​sites​ ​with​ ​high-quality
models​:
1. http://www.thingiverse.com/
2. https://pinshape.com/
3. https://www.youmagine.com/
4. http://www.shapeways.com/
5. http://www.123dapp.com/

10.2​ ​In​ ​what​ ​program​ ​you​ ​can​ ​create​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models?
To​ ​create​ ​a​ ​3D​ ​model​​ ​yourself,​ ​you​ ​need​ ​a​ ​dedicated​ ​program.​ ​The​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​to​ ​quickly
create​ ​a​ ​model​​ ​is​ ​TinkerCad​​ ​(w
​ ww.​tinkercad​.com​)​ ​-​ ​an​ ​online​​ ​editor​ ​(no​ ​installation​ ​needed)
-​ ​you​ ​create​ ​your​ ​3D​ ​model​​ ​directly​ ​in​ ​the​ ​browser​ ​window.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​free,​ ​is​ ​easy​ ​to​ ​operate​ ​and
you​ ​will​ ​find​ ​even​ ​basic​ ​video​ ​tutorials,​ ​so​ ​after​ ​a​ ​few​ ​minutes​ ​nothing​ ​prevents​ ​you​ ​to​ ​create
your​ ​first​ ​3D​ ​object.
Other​ ​popular​ ​tool​ ​for​ ​creating​ ​models​​ ​is​ ​Fusion​ ​360
(​https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/​)​ ​for​ ​PC,​ ​Mac​ ​and​ ​iPad.​ ​Website​ ​provides​ ​a
quick​ ​guide​ ​along​​ ​with​ ​detailed​​ ​video​ ​tutorials​ ​so​ ​it’s​ ​a​ ​very​ ​good​ ​choice​ ​for​ ​novice
enthusiasts.
There​ ​is​ ​a​ ​great​ ​deal​ ​of​ ​3D​ ​programs​ ​-​ ​free​ ​or​ ​paid​ ​-​ ​your​ ​choice​ ​depends​ ​more​ ​on​ ​your
personal​ ​taste​ ​and​ ​preferences.​ ​The​ ​following​ ​is​ ​a​ ​list​ ​of​ ​other​ ​programs​ ​used​ ​for​ ​making​ ​3D
39

models​:​ ​OpenScad,​ ​DesignSpark​ ​Mechanical​,​ ​Fusion​ ​360°,​ ​Blender,​ ​Maya,​ ​3DS​ ​Max,
Autocad​ ​and​ ​many​ ​more…

Pict.​ ​23​ ​-​ ​Fusion​ ​360

10.3​ ​PrusaControl
A​ ​3D​ ​printer​ ​can​ ​print​ ​almost​ ​anything.​ ​Whether​ ​you’ve​ ​downloaded​ ​3D​ ​models​ ​from​ ​the
Internet​ ​or​ ​created​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models,​ ​you​ ​will​ ​need​ ​to​ c
​ onvert​ ​the​ ​.obj​ ​or​ ​.stl​ ​format​ ​into​ ​a
.gcode​ ​file​.​ ​Gcode​ ​is​ ​a​ ​file​ ​format​ ​readable​ ​by​ ​a​ ​3D​ ​printer.​ ​The​ ​file​ ​contains​ ​information​ ​for
nozzle​ ​movement​ ​and​ ​the​ ​amount​ ​of​ ​filament​ ​to​ ​extrude.​ ​The​ ​right​ ​tool​ ​for​ ​this​ ​task​ ​-​ ​and​ ​for
many​ ​more​ ​-​ ​is​ ​the​ ​PrusaControl​ ​program.
You​ ​set​ ​the​ ​printing​ ​material,​ ​print​ ​quality​ ​and​ ​the​ ​print​ ​speed​ ​in​ ​PrusaControl.​ ​You​ ​can
manipulate​ ​the​ ​object​ ​here,​ ​varying​ ​the​ ​placement​ ​on​ ​the​ ​printbed,​ ​resize​ ​it,​ ​etc.
PrusaControl​​ ​is​ ​the​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​to​ ​get​ ​perfect​ ​prints​ ​on​ ​the​ ​MK3​ ​and​ ​should​ ​be​ ​used​ ​when
first​ ​experiencing​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​printing​ ​world.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​get​ ​more​ ​advanced​ ​and​ ​want​ ​to​ ​tweak​ ​the
print​ ​settings​ ​or​ ​add​ ​new​ ​materials,​ ​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition​​ ​is​ ​waiting​ ​for​ ​you.

40

Pict.​ ​24​ ​-​ ​Prusa​ ​Control​ ​interface
1. Undo/Redo​​ ​buttons​ ​return​ ​changes.
2. Scale​​ ​button​ a
​ llows​ ​you​ ​to​ ​scale​ ​with​ ​the​ ​mouse​ ​while​ ​the​ ​model​ ​is​ ​selected.
3. Rotate​​ ​button​ a
​ llows​ ​you​ ​to​ ​rotate​ ​with​ ​the​ ​mouse​ ​while​ ​the​ ​model​ ​is​ ​selected​ ​(outer
circle​ ​step​ ​are​ ​0,1°,​ ​inner​ ​circle​ ​step​ ​is​ ​45°.)
4. Auto​ ​arrange​​ ​button​ ​positions​ ​objects​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed.
5. Material​ ​selection​ ​menu
6. Quality​ ​/​ ​Speed​ ​setting​ ​of​ ​a​ ​print​ ​menu
7. Infill​ ​menu
8. Supports​ ​menu
9. Reset​ ​transformation​​ ​settings​ ​button
10. Position​​ ​values
11. Rotation​​ ​values
12. Scale​​ ​values
13. Place​ ​on​ ​bed​​ ​button​ ​turns​ ​on​ ​automatic​ ​placing​ ​of​ ​objects​ ​to​ ​Z=[0]
14. Brim​​ ​On/Off​ ​button
15. Model​ ​preview
16. Generate​​ ​button​ ​slices​ ​the​ ​model
17. Progress​ ​bar

41

10.4​ ​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition
PrusaControl​ ​is​ ​built​ ​on​ ​top​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition​​ ​and​ ​hides​ ​all​ ​the​ ​unnecessary​ ​clutter
from​ ​having​ ​all​ ​settings​ ​exposed.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​choose​ ​to​ ​create​ ​your​ ​own​ ​specific​ ​print​ ​settings​ ​or
tweak​ ​material​ ​settings​ ​heavily,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​use​ ​Slic3r​ ​PE​ ​directly.

​​

Pict.​ ​25​ ​-​ ​Slic3r​ ​interface
1. Add​​ ​button​ ​loads​ ​models​ ​into​ ​Slic3r.
2. Delete​​ ​and​ ​Delete​ ​All​​ ​buttons​ ​remove​ ​the​ m
​ odel​(s)​ ​from​ ​Slic3r.
3. Opens​ ​the​ ​detailed​​ ​settings​​ ​of​ ​print​,​ ​filament​​ ​and​ ​printer​.
4. When​ ​the​ ​model​​ ​is​ ​ready​ ​for​ ​print​​ ​this​ ​button​ ​generates​ ​the​ ​.gcode​ ​file.
5. Quality​ ​/​ ​Speed​​ ​setting​ ​of​ ​a​ ​print
6. Material​ ​selection
7. Printer​ ​selection
8. Right-click​ ​on​ ​model​ ​opens​ ​the​ ​menu​ ​with​ ​rotate,​ ​resize​ ​and​ ​other​ ​options
9. Type​ ​of​ ​model​​ ​preview
10. Model​ ​preview

42

10.5​ ​Bundled​ ​3D​ ​models
We​ ​asked​ ​couple​ ​known​ ​3D​ ​designers​ ​and​ ​prepared​ ​some​ ​printable​ ​object​ ​for​ ​you​ ​to​ ​print.
They​ ​are​ ​ideal​ ​for​ ​the​ ​first​ ​prints​ ​on​ ​your​ ​new​ ​printer.​ ​STL​ ​and​ ​GCODE​ ​files​ ​are​ ​available
after​ ​installing​ ​the​ ​driver’s​ ​package​ ​in​ ​“3D​ ​Objects”​ ​folder​ ​or​ ​bundled​ ​on​ ​your​ ​SD​ ​card.​ ​You
can​ ​check​ ​them​ ​out​ ​at​ ​http://www.prusa3d.com/printable-3d-models/​.

Pict.​ ​26​ ​-​ ​50​ ​microns​ ​treefrog​ ​is​ ​commonly​ ​used​ ​as​ ​a​ ​3D​ ​printing​ ​benchmark.

43

10.6​ ​Print​ ​in​ ​color​ ​with​ ​ColorPrint
There​ ​is​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​way​ ​on​ ​how​ ​to​ ​create​ ​layer​ ​based​ ​multicolored​ ​3D​ ​prints​ w
​ ith​ ​PrusaControl
or​ ​with​ ​our​ ​simple​ ​online​ ​ColorPrint​ ​app​ ​by​ ​manually​ ​changing​ ​the​ ​filament.

Pict.​ ​27​ ​-​ ​Multicolored​ ​object​ ​printed​ ​with​ ​ColorPrint
​ ​ ​ ​ColorPrint​ ​is​ ​now​ ​directly​ ​integrated​ ​into​ ​the​ ​PrusaControl​ ​and​ ​filament
changes​ ​can​ ​be​ ​added​ ​when​ ​the​ ​gcode​ ​is​ ​already​ ​generated​ ​before​ ​saving​ ​it
to​ ​the​ ​file.​ ​PrusaControl​ ​can​ ​also​ ​add​ ​color​ ​changes​ ​to​ ​existing​ ​gcodes
(generated​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​for​ ​example).​ ​You​ ​can​ ​also​ ​use​ ​Web​ ​ColorPrint​ ​for​ ​gcode
from​ ​other​ ​slicers​ ​including​ ​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition.

Pict.​ ​28​ ​-​ ​Adding​ ​color​ ​change​ ​in​ ​PrusaControl
44

●
●
●
●

First​ ​of​ ​all​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​prepare​ ​regular​ ​gcode​​ ​with​ ​common​ ​print​ ​and​ ​filament
settings.​ ​Save​ ​the​ ​file.

Then​ ​go​ ​to​ ​www.prusaprinters.org​​ ​and​ ​choose​ ​Color​ ​Print​​ ​in​ ​the​ ​header​ ​menu.
Drag​ ​the​ ​gcode​ ​to​ ​frame​ ​and​ ​click​ ​on​ ​Add​ ​change​ ​button.

Find​ ​the​ ​height​​ ​of​ ​the​ ​layer​ ​where​ ​you​ ​want​ ​to​ ​make​ ​the​ ​color​ ​change.​ ​This​ ​can​ ​be
easily​ ​found​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​under​ ​tab​ ​“Layers.”​ ​The​ ​scale​ ​along​ ​right​ ​side​ ​displays​ ​the

height​ ​of​ ​individual​ ​layers.​ ​Set​ ​this​ ​number​ ​to​ ​the​ ​box.​ ​Number​ ​of​ ​these​ ​changes​ ​is
unlimited.
●

When​ ​you​ ​are​ ​done​ ​with​ ​your​ ​modification,​ ​download​ ​the​ ​file.​ ​This​ ​file​ ​is​ r​ eady​​ ​to​ ​be
printed!

Pict.​ ​29​ ​-​ ​Web​ ​version​ ​of​ ​Colorprint​ ​interface​ ​at​ ​prusaprinters.org/colorprint

45

Insert​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​which​ ​you​ ​want​ ​to​ ​start​ ​with​ ​into​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​start​ ​printing​ ​the​ ​file.
When​ ​the​ ​color​ ​change​ ​is​ ​triggered​ ​from​ ​the​ ​gcode​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​follow​ ​simple​ ​procedure:
● Stop​ ​moving​ ​and​ ​retract
● Raise​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​by​ ​2​ ​mm​ ​and​ ​move​ ​quickly​ ​outside​ ​the​ ​printbed
● Unload​ ​the​ ​current​ ​filament
● You​ ​will​ ​get​ ​asked​ ​to​ ​insert​ ​the​ ​new​ ​filament.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​do​ ​so​ ​and​ ​continue,​ ​filament
will​ ​be​ ​pulled​ ​into​ ​the​ ​hotend​ ​and​ ​LCD​ ​will​ ​display​ “​ Changed​ ​correctly?”​ ​with​ ​three
options:
1. “Yes”​​ ​Everything​ ​went​ ​ok​ ​and​ ​printing​​ ​can​ ​continue.​ ​Check​ ​if​ ​the​ ​new​ ​color​​ ​is​ ​clear
without​ ​any​ ​remains​ ​of​ ​the​ ​previous​ ​filament​​ ​-​ ​if​ ​yes,​ ​choose​ ​this​ ​option​ ​to​ ​continue
printing​​ ​with​ ​a​ ​new​ ​color​.
2. “Filament​ ​not​ ​loaded”​​ ​If​ ​the​ ​new​ f​ ilament​​ ​was​ ​not​ ​loaded​ ​properly​,​ ​choose​ ​this
option​ ​and​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​will​ ​start​ ​the​ ​automatic​ ​filament​​ ​load​​ ​again.​ ​When​ ​the​ ​filament
is​ ​loaded​ ​properly​,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​“Yes”​ ​option​ ​and​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​will​ ​continue​ ​with
a​ ​new​ ​color​.
3. “​Color​​ ​not​ ​clear”​​ ​Filament​​ ​was​ ​loaded​ ​but​ ​the​ ​color​​ ​is​ ​still​ ​mixed​ ​with​ ​the​ ​previous
filament​.​ ​Press​ ​the​ ​button​ ​with​ ​this​ ​option​ ​and​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​will​ ​extrude​ ​more​ ​filament
from​ ​the​ ​nozzle​.​ ​When​ ​the​ ​color​​ ​is​ ​pure​ ​without​ ​any​ ​remains​ ​of​ ​the​ ​previous​ ​filament
you​ ​can​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​“Yes”​ ​option​ ​and​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​will​ ​continue​ ​with​ ​a​ ​new​ ​color​.
After​ ​confirming,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​returns​ ​to​ ​the​ ​original​ ​position​ ​and​ ​continues​ ​to​ ​print.
Other​ ​options​ ​for​ ​multicolored​​ ​print​ ​is​ ​to​​ ​use​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​change​ ​option.​ ​Choose
the​ ​Tune​ ​and​ ​then​ ​Change​ ​filament​​ ​option​ ​during​ ​the​ ​print​.​ ​Printer​ ​will​ ​pause​ ​the
printing​​ ​process,​ ​unload​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​and​ ​signals​ ​you​ ​to​ ​insert​ ​the​ ​new​ ​filament​.​ ​The
procedure​ ​is​ ​the​ ​same​ ​as​ ​above.
You​ ​should​ ​always​ ​use​ ​the​ ​same​ ​material​ ​or​ ​combine​ ​materials​ ​with​ ​similar​ ​print
temperatures​ ​and​ ​settings.

10.7​ ​Printing​ ​of​ ​non-standard​ ​models
Slic3r​ ​helps​ ​you​ ​while​ ​printing​​ ​the​ ​non​-standard​ ​models​​ ​as​ ​models​​ ​with​ o
​ verhangs​​ ​and/or
models​​ ​larger​ ​than​ ​a​ ​printing​​ ​bed.

10.7.1​ ​Printing​ ​with​ ​support​ ​material
When​ ​you​ ​print​​ ​models​​ ​you​ ​can​ ​find​ ​special​ ​cases​ ​different​ ​from​ ​standard​ ​printing​.​ ​The​ ​first
case​ ​is​ ​printing​​ ​with​ ​support​​ ​material​.
If​ ​you​ ​print​​ ​an​ ​object​ ​with​ ​a​ ​gradient​ ​lower​ ​than​ ​45°​ ​the​ ​material​​ ​overhang​​ ​would​ ​be
preventing​ ​the​ ​object​ ​to​ ​be​ ​printed​ ​correctly.​ ​Slic3r​ ​allows​ ​you​ ​to​ p
​ rint​​ ​such​ ​objects​ ​thanks​ ​to
the​ ​‘​Printing​​ ​with​ ​support’​ ​function​.​ ​Support​ ​material​​ ​is​ ​an​ ​extra​ ​structure​ ​printed​ ​as
scaffolding​ ​for​ ​the​ ​object​ ​-​ ​you​ ​can​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​support​​ ​material​​ ​after​ ​the​ ​printing​​ ​is​ ​finished.
Choose​ ​the​ ​Print​ ​Settings​ ​tab​ ​(1)​​ ​and​ ​click​ ​the​ ​Support​ ​Material​ ​option​ ​(2)​​ ​in​ ​left​ ​column.
First​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​check​ ​the​ ​Generate​ ​support​ ​material​ ​box​ ​(3)​.​ ​Next​ ​item​ ​-​ ​Overhang
threshold​ ​(4)​​ ​lets​ ​you​ ​set​ ​the​ ​minimal​ ​angle​ ​for​ ​printing​​ ​the​ ​support​​ ​material​.​ ​Setting​ ​this​ ​item
46

to​ ​zero​ ​lets​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​detect​ ​problematic​ ​parts​ ​automatically​ ​and​ ​print​​ ​support​​ ​where​ ​it’s
needed.
Enforce​ ​support​ ​option​ ​(5)​​ ​is​ ​used​ ​mostly​ ​with​ ​small​ ​models​​ ​or​ ​models​​ ​with​ ​a​ ​small​ ​base​ ​to
prevent​ ​the​ ​object​ ​from​ ​breaking​ ​or​ ​tearing​ ​out​ ​from​ ​the​ ​bed.

Pict.​ ​30​ ​-​ ​Print​ ​with​ ​support​ ​menu

10.7.2​ ​Large​ ​object​ ​printing
Another​ ​special​ ​printing​​ ​case​ ​is​ ​when​ ​printing​​ ​objects​ ​larger​ ​than​ ​the​ ​heatbed​.​ ​The​ ​first
option​ ​is​ ​to​ ​resize​ ​the​ ​object​ ​to​ ​a​ ​printable​ s​ ize​.​ ​Right-click​ ​on​ ​an​ ​object​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​opens​ ​a
menu​ ​with​ ​the​ ​Scale​…​ ​option,​ ​then​ ​you​ ​choose​ ​Uniformly​,​ ​if​ ​you​ ​want​ ​to​ ​scale​​ ​down​ ​the
model​​ ​evenly;​ ​or​ ​you​ ​can​ ​alter​ ​the​ ​size​​ ​of​ ​a​ ​model​​ ​along​​ ​the​ ​one​ ​of​ ​the​ ​axes:​ ​Along​ ​X,​ ​Y,​ ​Z
axis​…

47

Pict.​ ​31​ ​-​ ​Size​ ​change​ ​of​ ​a​ ​printed​ ​object
If​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​print​​ ​an​ ​object​ ​that​ ​doesn’t​ ​fit​ ​the​ ​printer​,​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​cut​ ​the​ ​object​​ ​using
Slic3r.​ ​Right-click​ ​and​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​Cut​…​ ​option​ ​in​ ​the​ ​menu.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​cut​​ ​the​ ​object
horizontally​ ​-​ ​if​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​perform​ ​a​ ​cut​​ ​in​ ​a​ ​different​ ​axis,​ ​use​ ​the​ ​Flip...​option​ ​in​ ​the​ ​same
menu.

Pict.​ ​32​ ​-​ ​Cutting​ ​the​ ​object​ ​with​ ​the​ ​Cut​ ​option
48

11​ ​Materials
Temperatures​ ​and​ ​the​ ​heatbed​ ​treatment​ ​before​ ​a​ ​print​ ​according​ ​to​ ​a​ ​specific​ ​material.

11.1​ ​ABS
ABS​ ​is​ ​a​ ​very​ ​strong​ ​and​ ​versatile​ ​material​ ​with​ ​great​ ​thermal​ ​resistance​.​ ​It’s​ ​suitable​ ​for
both​ ​indoor​ ​and​ ​outdoor​ ​use.
ABS​ ​is​ ​a​ ​thermoplastic​ ​polymer,​ ​that​ ​means​ ​that​ ​just​ ​like​ ​PLA,​ ​it​ ​can​ ​be​ ​melted​ ​and
crystallized​ ​multiple​ ​times​ ​without​ ​degrading​ ​too​ ​much.​ ​ABS,​ ​however,​ ​melts​ ​at​ ​a​ ​higher
temperature​ ​than​ ​PLA.​ ​Higher​ ​melting​ ​temperature​ ​gives​ ​ABS​ ​great​ ​thermal​ ​resistance,​ ​your
prints​ ​won’t​ ​show​ ​signs​ ​of​ ​deformation​ ​up​ ​to​ ​98​ ​°C​.
ABS​ ​includes​ ​high​ ​wear​ ​resistance​ ​synthetic​ ​rubber,​ ​which​ ​makes​ ​it​ v
​ ery​ ​strong​ ​and
impact​ ​resistant​.​ ​And​ ​last​ ​but​ ​not​ ​least,​ ​it’s​ ​soluble​ ​in​ ​acetone​!​ ​This​ ​makes​ ​it​ ​really​ ​easy​ ​to
not​ ​only​ ​connect​ ​multiple​ ​parts​ ​together​ ​but​ ​also​ ​allows​ ​you​ ​to​ s
​ mooth​ ​prints​​ ​with​ ​acetone
vapors.​ ​You​ ​still​ ​have​ ​to​ ​be​ ​careful​ ​when​ ​handling​ ​acetone,​ ​but​ ​it’s​ ​not​ ​anywhere​ ​near​ ​as
dangerous​ ​as​ ​for​ ​example​ ​PLA​ ​solvents.
The​ ​best​ ​use​ ​of​ ​ABS​ ​is​ ​for​ ​architectural​ ​models,​ ​concept​ ​models,​ ​spare​ ​parts​ ​(car
interior,​ ​gears,​ ​phone​ ​cases),​ ​etc.
On​ ​the​ ​other​ ​hand,​ ​thermal​ ​contraction​ ​is​ ​where​ ​ABS​ ​makes​ ​it​ ​really​ ​hard​ ​to​ ​successfully
print​ ​something.​ ​And​ ​that’s​ ​especially​ ​true​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​anything​ ​big.​ ​Even​ ​with​ ​the​ ​heatbed
at​ ​100​ ​°C,​ ​your​ ​part​ ​may​ ​start​ ​lifting​ ​from​ ​the​ ​build​ ​plate​ ​and​ ​warp.​ ​This​ ​and​ ​the​ u
​ npleasant
smell​​ ​of​ ​ABS​ ​is​ ​why​ ​you​ ​should​ ​consider​ ​getting​ ​an​ ​enclosure​ ​for​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​when​ ​printing
with​ ​ABS.​ ​Or​ ​at​ ​least​ ​place​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​in​ ​a​ ​warm​ ​room.
If​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​use​ ​your​ ​print​ ​outside​ ​or​ ​just​ ​need​ ​your​ ​print​ ​stronger,​ ​give​ ​ABS​ ​a​ ​shot.​ ​It’s
what​ ​LEGO​​ ​is​ ​made​ ​of​ ​after​ ​all.

ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES

High​ ​impact​ ​and​ ​heat​ ​resistance

Bad​ ​smell

Strong​ ​and​ ​versatile

Worse​ ​resolution

Soluble​ ​in​ ​acetone​ ​(easy​ ​post-processing)

Needs​ ​warm​ ​room​ ​or​ ​enclosure

Can​ ​be​ ​vapor​ ​smoothed

●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​255​​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​100​ ​°C.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​set​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​temperature​ ​between​ ​80​ ​to​ ​110​ ​°C
depending​ ​the​ ​size​ ​of​ ​an​ ​object​ ​(larger​ ​object​ ​means​ ​higher​ ​temperature)
Heatbed:​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ 6
​ .3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface
preparation​​ ​chapter
49

11.2​ ​PLA
PLA is the most commonly used filament. It’s ​biodegradable​, ​easy to print​, and a very
strong ​material. The perfect choice for printing ​large ​objects thanks to its low thermal
expansion (little to no warping) and for printing ​tiny ​parts because of its low melting
temperature.​ ​This​ ​material​ ​only​ ​is​ ​proven​ ​for​ ​50​ ​microns​ ​layer​ ​height.
PLA has a relatively low melting temperature of about 175 degrees Celsius. Unlike so-called
thermoset materials, PLA can be heated past its melting point multiple times with very little
degradation. It’s also very hard material, but that also means it’s somewhat brittle and once it
breaks,​ ​it​ ​likes​ ​to​ ​shatter.
The​ ​best​ ​use​ ​of​ ​PLA​ ​is​ ​for​ ​printing​ ​concept​ ​models,​ ​prototypes,​ ​low-wear​ ​toys,​ ​etc.
However, PLA is not a perfect material and just like every other plastic has some
disadvantages. The low melting temperature also means ​low-temperature resistance​.
Parts​ ​start​ ​to​ ​lose​ ​mechanical​ ​strength​ ​at​ ​temperatures​ ​over​ ​60​ ​°C​.
The combination of being both biodegradable and having low-temperature resistance means
that it’s ​not ideal for outdoor use​, not to mention low UV-resistance. Also, PLA is only
soluble in chemicals like chloroform or hot benzene. So when connecting multiple pieces,
you’re​ ​better​ ​off​ ​just​ ​using​ ​glue.
Even though PLA is biodegradable and the material on its own is food safe, we do not
suggest to repeatedly ​drink or eat from your 3D prints​. Because of the small fractures on
the print surface, bacteria can build up in there over time. You can prevent this by applying
food safe coating. When post-processing PLA​, it’s better to use wet sanding. Without water
you'll quickly start heating the plastic by friction, it will melt locally and make it hard to keep
sanding.
ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES

Easy​ ​to​ ​print

Brittle

Can​ ​print​ ​tiny​ ​parts

Low-temperature​ ​resistance

Can​ ​print​ ​huge​ ​objects

Difficult​ ​post-processing

Hard​ ​and​ ​stiff
Low​ ​warping
Environmentally​ ​friendly

●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​215​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​50​ ​-​ ​60​ ​°C
Heatbed:​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean,​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ 6
​ .3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface
preparation​​ ​chapter
50

11.3​ ​PET/PETG
PETG​ ​is​ ​a​ ​very​ ​tough​ ​material​ ​with​ ​good​ ​thermal​ ​resistance.​ ​It’s​ ​universal​ ​but​ ​suitable
especially​ ​for​ ​mechanical​ ​parts​ ​and​ ​both​ ​indoor​ ​and​ ​outdoor​ ​use.​ ​PETG​ ​has​ ​almost​ n
​ o
warping​,​ ​so​ ​printing​ ​large​ ​objects​ ​isn’t​ ​a​ ​problem.​ ​We​ ​use​ ​PETG​ ​to​ ​print​ ​parts​ ​for​ ​our
printers!
PETG​ ​is​ ​one​ ​of​ ​our​ ​favorite​ ​materials​ ​for​ ​3D​ ​printing.​ ​It’s​ ​almost​ ​as​ ​easy​ ​to​ ​print​ ​as​ ​PLA,​ ​but
it​ ​can​ ​offer​ ​many​ ​mechanical​ ​properties​ ​that​ ​PLA​ ​prints​ ​just​ ​cannot​ ​achieve.
The​ ​G​ ​in​ ​the​ ​acronym​ ​PETG​ ​stands​ ​for​ ​Glycol​ ​which​ ​is​ ​added​ ​during​ ​the​ ​manufacturing
process.​ ​Glycol​ ​modifies​ ​the​ ​properties​ ​of​ ​PET,​ ​so​ ​that​ ​it’s​ ​easier​ ​to​ ​print,​ ​less​ ​brittle​ ​and
clearer​​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​with​ ​semi-transparent​ ​variants.​ ​PETG​ ​has​ ​low​ ​thermal​ ​expansion,​ ​so
even​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​big​ ​and​ ​without​ ​an​ ​enclosure,​ ​it​ ​rarely​ ​lifts​ ​from​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​warps.​ ​In
addition​ ​to​ ​that,​ ​PETG​ ​is​ ​ductile​.​ ​It​ ​has​ ​a​ ​healthy​ ​amount​ ​of​ ​flex​ ​which​ ​can​ ​prevent​ ​parts
from​ ​breaking​ ​under​ ​stress.
Unlike​ ​PLA​ ​or​ ​ABS,​ ​PETG​ ​tends​ ​to​ ​ooze​ ​a​ ​bit​ ​and​ ​may​ ​leave​ s
​ trings​ ​of​ ​plastic​​ ​on​ ​your
print.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​fight​ ​this​ ​with​ ​increasing​ ​retraction​ ​and​ ​playing​ ​with​ ​hotend​ ​temperature,​ ​but​ ​if
you​ ​use​ ​our​ ​filament​ ​presets​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​or​ ​Prusa​ ​Control​,​ ​we​ ​already​ ​did​ ​that​ ​for​ ​you​ ​and​ ​the
amount​ ​of​ ​stringing​ ​is​ ​minimal.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​witness​ ​a​ ​tiny​ ​bit​ ​of​ ​stringing​ ​anyway,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​get​ ​rid​ ​of
it​ ​by​ ​quickly​ ​blasting​ ​your​ ​finished​ ​prints​ ​with​ ​a​ ​heat​ ​gun.
PETG​ ​sticks​ ​very​ ​well​ ​to​ ​PEI,​ ​which​ ​is​ ​generally​ ​a​ ​good​ ​thing.​ ​But​ ​sometimes​ ​it​ ​could​ ​stick​ ​a
little​ ​bit​ ​too​ ​well​ ​and​ ​you​ ​could​ ​rip​ ​a​ ​piece​ ​of​ ​PEI​ ​from​ ​the​ ​bed,​ ​so​ ​you​ ​should​ ​use​ ​a
separating​ ​agent​​ ​(e.g.​ ​gluestick).
If​ ​you​ ​can​ ​handle​ ​the​ ​oozing​ ​and​ ​strong​ ​adhesion,​ ​you’ll​ ​be​ ​left​ ​with​ ​a​ ​very​ ​durable​ ​print,​ ​that
is​ ​considerably​ ​temperature​ ​resistant​ ​and​ ​usable​ ​for​ ​both​ ​indoor​ ​and​ ​outdoor​ ​use.

ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES

Easy​ ​to​ ​print

Possibility​ ​of​ ​stringing

Good​ ​layer​ ​adhesion

Not​ ​soluble​ ​in​ ​acetone

Very​ ​tough,​ ​low​ ​warping

Prone​ ​to​ ​scratches

Temperature​ ​resistance
Little​ ​shrinking
Durable
●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​240​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​80​ ​-​ ​100​ ​°C
Heatbed:​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean,​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ 6
​ .3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface
preparation​​ ​chapter.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​use​ ​isopropyl​ ​alcohol​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​bed,​ ​or​ ​the​ ​adhesion
may​ ​be​ ​too​ ​strong,​ ​if​ ​you​ ​do​ ​not​ ​have​ ​anything​ ​else​ ​on​ ​hand​ ​use​ ​the​ ​bundled​ ​glue​ ​as
a​ ​separator​ ​after​ ​cleaning​ ​it.​ ​Windex​ ​or​ ​similar​ ​windows​ ​cleaner​ ​is​ ​a​ ​great​ ​option​ ​for
PET​ ​and​ ​you​ ​don’t​ ​need​ ​to​ ​use​ ​the​ ​glue​ ​after​ ​the​ ​cleaning.​ ​Pour​ ​a​ ​little​ ​amount​ ​on​ ​an
unscented​ ​paper​ ​towel​ ​and​ ​wipe​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.
51

11.4​ ​HIPS
HIPS​ ​is​ ​high​ ​impact​ ​polystyrene,​ ​and​ ​as​ ​for​ ​behavior,​ ​it's​ ​similar​ ​to​ ​ABS,​ ​so​ ​it's​ ​easy​ ​to​ ​print.
It's​ ​a​ ​universal​ ​and​ ​stable​ ​material​ ​with​ ​excellent​ ​heat​ ​resistance,​ ​and​ ​it​ ​produces​ ​very
smooth​ ​layers.​ ​HIPS​ ​is​ ​also​ ​very​ ​malleable,​ ​and​ ​it​ ​can​ ​be​ ​dissolved​ ​using​ ​limonene.​ ​HIPS​ ​is
mostly​ ​suited​ ​for​ ​printable​ ​mechanical​ ​components.

ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES

Smooth

High​ ​level​ ​of​ ​warping

Durable

Bad​ ​smell

Soluble

●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​220​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​100​ ​°C.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​set​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​temperature​ ​between​ ​80​ ​to​ ​110​ ​°C
depending​ ​the​ ​size​ ​of​ ​an​ ​object​ ​(larger​ ​object​ ​means​ ​higher​ ​temperature)
Heatbed:​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean,​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ 6
​ .3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface
preparation​​ ​chapter

11.5​ ​PP
Polypropylene​ ​is​ ​a​ ​flexible​ ​and​ ​resistant​ ​material​ ​suitable​ ​for​ ​printing​ ​of​ ​the​ ​precise​ ​objects
requiring​ ​the​ ​flexibility,​ ​firmness​ ​and​ ​persistence.

ADVANTAGES
Tough

DISADVANTAGES
High​ ​level​ ​of​ ​warping

Semi-flexible
Temperature​ ​resistance

●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​254​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​95​ ​-​ ​100​ ​°C.
Heatbed:​ ​The​ ​best​ ​results​ ​are​ ​obtained​ ​with​ ​common​ ​scotch​ ​tape​ ​-​ ​just​ ​attach​ ​the
tape​ ​directly​ ​to​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​and​ ​clean​ ​it​ ​after​ ​the​ ​print​ ​is​ ​finished.

11.6​ ​Nylon​ ​(Taulman​ ​Bridge)
Nylon​ ​is​ ​very​ ​tough​ ​material​ ​suitable​ ​for​ ​mechanical​ ​parts.

52

ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES
Demanding​ ​storage​ ​(it’s​ ​hygroscopic)

Durable
Chemically​ ​resistant
Flexible,​ ​but​ ​strong
Chemical​ ​resistance
●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​240​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​80​ ​-​ ​90​ ​°C.
Heatbed:​ ​Use​ ​one​ ​coat​ ​of​ ​glue​ ​stick.​ ​Clean​ ​as​ ​described​ ​after​ ​the​ ​print.

11.7​ ​Flex
Flex​ ​is​ ​a​ ​very​ ​strong​ ​and​ ​flexible​ ​material.​ ​There​ ​are​ ​many​ ​use​ ​cases​ ​where​ ​hard​ ​plastic​ ​is
not​ ​the​ ​ideal​ ​or​ ​even​ ​unusable​ ​at​ ​all.​ ​But​ ​whether​ ​you​ ​need​ ​a​ ​phone​ ​cover,​ ​an​ ​action​ ​camera
case​ ​or​ ​wheels​ ​for​ ​your​ ​RC​ ​car,​ ​flexible​ ​is​ ​the​ ​way​ ​to​ ​go.
Before​ ​you​ ​start​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​Flex,​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​from​ ​the​ ​previous​ ​material​ ​preheat​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​load​ ​PLA​ ​to​ ​remove​ ​any​ ​other​ ​previous​ ​material.​ ​When
loading​ ​Flex​ ​loosen​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​(idler)​ ​screws.​ ​Keep​ ​in​ ​mind​ ​that​ ​when​ ​printing
from​ ​Flex​ ​the​ ​automatic​ ​filament​ ​exchange​ ​function​ ​may​ ​not​ ​work​ ​properly.
Flex​ ​has​ ​very​ ​good​ ​abrasion​ ​resistance,​ ​remains​ ​flexible​ ​in​ ​cold​ ​environments,​ ​and​ ​is
resistant​ ​to​ ​many​ ​solvents.​ ​It​ ​doesn’t​ ​shrink​ ​much​ ​when​ ​cooling​ ​down,​ ​so​ ​you​ ​can​ ​be​ ​fairly
accurate​ ​with​ ​your​ ​measurements​ ​and​ ​perfect​ ​fit​ ​models.
ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES

Flexible​ ​and​ ​elastic

Needs​ ​extra​ ​steps​ ​when​ ​loading​ ​filament

Little​ ​shrinking

Can​ ​be​ ​tricky​ ​to​ ​print

Good​ ​layer​ ​adhesion

Needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​printed​ ​slowly

●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​230​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​50​ ​°C.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​set​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​temperature​ ​up​ ​to​ ​65​ ​°C​ ​depending
on​ ​the​ ​size​ ​of​ ​an​ ​object.​ ​(larger​ ​object​ ​means​ ​higher​ ​temperature)
Heatbed:​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ 6
​ .3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface
preparation​​ ​chapter.​ ​Some​ ​very​ ​soft​ ​flex​ ​materials​ ​can​ ​bond​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​too​ ​much​ ​and
require​ ​to​ ​use​ ​glue​ ​on​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​as​ ​a​ ​separator​ ​to​ ​prevent​ ​PEI​ ​damage.

53

11.8​ ​Composite​ ​materials
Composite materials (woodfill, copperfill, bronzefill, glow-in-the-dark, carbon or aramid
composites and many others) consist of a main plastic base and second material in the form
of dust. These materials tend (except for wood composites) to be very abrasive, therefore
hardened nozzle is strongly suggested for long-term printing. The larger nozzle is
recommended while printing with wood composites (0.5 mm and up). Please use
corresponding print settings in Slic3r or PrusaControl as print parameters can be very
different​ ​depending​ ​on​ ​plastic​ ​base.
The​ ​first​ ​step​ ​in​ ​polishing​ ​is​ ​sanding.​ ​It’s​ ​a​ ​good​ ​idea​ ​to​ ​start​ ​with​ ​a​ ​coarse​ ​grit​ ​size​ ​(80)​ ​and
slowly​ ​move​ ​up​ ​the​ ​grit​ ​table.​ ​After​ ​sanding​ ​a​ ​big​ ​improvement​ ​in​ ​polish​ ​can​ ​be​ ​achieved
with​ ​steel​ ​wool​ ​or​ ​brass​ ​brush.​ ​If​ ​you’re​ ​still​ ​not​ ​happy​ ​with​ ​the​ ​finish,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​try​ ​wet
sanding​ ​with​ ​a​ ​very​ ​fine​ ​grit​ ​(1500).

ADVANTAGES
Easy​ ​to​ ​print

DISADVANTAGES
Needs​ ​hardened​ ​nozzle

No​ ​warping
Great​ ​look​ ​after​ ​post-processing
●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​190​ ​-​ ​210​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​50​ ​-​ ​70​ ​°C​ ​(bigger​ ​object​ ​->​ ​higher​ ​temp.)
Heatbed:​ ​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ 6
​ .3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface
preparation​​ ​chapter.

11.9​ ​ASA
Acrylonitrile-styrene-acryl​ ​(ASA)​ ​is​ ​a​ ​material​ ​with​ ​properties​ ​similar​ ​to​ ​ABS,​ ​its​ ​main​ ​benefit
is​ ​increased​ ​weather​ ​and​ ​UV​ ​resistance.​ ​Another​ ​advantage​ ​is​ ​overall​ ​dimensional​ ​stability.
To​ ​achieve​ ​cast-like​ ​surface,​ ​acetone​ ​smoothing​ ​can​ ​be​ ​used…

ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES

Heat​ ​and​ ​UV​ ​resistant

Bad​ ​smell

Soluble​ ​in​ ​acetone​ ​(easy​ ​post-processing)

High​ ​level​ ​of​ ​warping

Can​ ​be​ ​vapor​ ​smoothed

●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​270​ ​-​ ​280​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​100​ ​-​ ​110​ ​°C​ ​(bigger​ ​object​ ​->​ ​higher​ ​temp.)
Heatbed:​ ​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​of​ ​the​ ​heatbed​ ​is​ ​clean.​ ​Usage​ ​of​ ​brim​ ​is​ ​suggested
(see​ ​Prusa​ ​Knowledgebase).
54

11.10​ ​nGen
Developed​ ​by​ ​Eastman​ ​Chemical​ ​Company​ ​and​ ​colorFabb,​ ​nGen​ ​offers​ ​increased
resistance​ ​to​ ​heat​ ​as​ ​well​ ​as​ ​dimensional​ ​stability.​ ​The​ ​material​ ​is​ ​low-odor​ ​and​ ​styrene-free.

ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES

High​ ​gloss

Brittle

Good​ ​surface​ ​finish

A​ ​bit​ ​of​ ​warping

Good​ ​layer​ ​adhesion

●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​240​ ​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​80​ ​-​ ​100​ ​°C​ ​(bigger​ ​object​ ​->​ ​higher​ ​temp.)
Heatbed:​ ​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​use​ ​isopropyl​ ​alcohol​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the
bed,​ ​or​ ​the​ ​adhesion​ ​may​ ​be​ ​too​ ​strong,​ ​use​ ​window​ ​cleaner​ ​instead.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​do​ ​not
have​ ​anything​ ​else​ ​on​ ​hand​ ​use​ ​the​ ​bundled​ ​glue​ ​as​ ​a​ ​separator​ ​after​ ​cleaning​ ​it.
Windex​ ​or​ ​similar​ ​windows​ ​cleaner​ ​is​ ​a​ ​great​ ​option​ ​for​ ​nGen​ ​and​ ​you​ ​don’t​ ​need​ ​to
use​ ​the​ ​glue​ ​after​ ​the​ ​cleaning.​ ​Spray​ ​small​ ​amount​ ​on​ ​unscented​ ​paper​ ​towel​ ​and
wipe​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.

11.11​ ​PC-ABS​ ​(E3D)
Polycarbonate ABS (PC-ABS) is an enhanced version of traditional ABS. Offers easier
processing, higher strength, stiffness and temperature resistance. PC-ABS is also suitable
for structures with openings, its bridging capability is improved compared to ABS. Typical
usage​ ​of​ ​PC-ABS​ ​is​ ​for​ ​durable​ ​plastic​ ​parts​ ​like​ ​television​ ​or​ ​computer​ ​casings.

ADVANTAGES

DISADVANTAGES

Lightweight

Warps

Good​ ​for​ ​mechanical​ ​parts

Low​ ​elasticity

●
●
●

Nozzle​ ​temperature:​ ​270​ ​-​ ​280​ ​°C
Bed​ ​temperature:​ ​100​ ​-​ ​110​ ​°C​ ​(bigger​ ​object​ ​->​ ​higher​ ​temp.)
Heatbed:​ ​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​of​ ​the​ ​heatbed​ ​is​ ​clean.

55

11.12​ ​Dialing​ ​in​ ​new​ ​materials
Each​ ​manufacturer​ ​produces​ ​slightly​ ​different​ ​material​ ​even​ ​though,​ ​they​ ​are​ ​under​ ​the
same​ ​group.​ ​For​ ​example​ ​Prusa​ ​PLA​ ​and​ ​ColorFabb​ ​PLA​ ​will​ ​have​ ​a​ ​slightly​ ​different​ ​output
when​ ​printed.
To​ ​achieve​ ​the​ ​best​ ​possible​ ​output​ ​you​ ​should​ ​experiment​ ​with​ ​the​ n
​ ozzle​ ​temperature​,
fan​ ​speed​,​ ​print​ ​speed​​ ​and​ ​flow​.​ ​All​ ​of​ ​these​ ​can​ ​be​ ​changed​ ​even​ ​during​ ​a​ ​print​ ​from​ ​the
Tweak​​ ​menu​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel.
Same​ ​also​ ​applies​ ​even​ ​for​ ​materials​ ​which​ ​are​ ​not​ ​listed​ ​here.​​ ​Take​ ​the​ ​manufacturer
suggested​ ​settings,​ ​find​ ​the​ ​closest​ ​match​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​material​ ​profiles,​ ​modify​ ​and​ ​save​ ​as
new.​ ​Continue​ ​by​ ​printing​ ​few​ ​simple​ ​test​ ​pieces​ ​and​ ​continuously​ ​use​ ​the​ ​Tweak
menu.​​ ​After​ ​each​ ​improvement,​ ​don’t​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​modify​ ​the​ ​settings​ ​in​ ​Slic3r.​ ​Reset​ ​the​ ​tweak
values​ ​before​ ​every​ ​print.
Don’t​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​share​ ​your​ ​settings​ ​on​ ​our​ ​forums​ ​or​ ​directly​ ​with​ ​us.

56

12​ ​FAQ​ ​-​ ​Printer​ ​maintenance​ ​and​ ​print​ ​issues
12.1​ ​Regular​ ​maintenance
12.1.1​ ​Bearings
Every​ ​couple​ ​hundred​ ​hours,​ ​the​ ​smooth​ ​rods​ ​should​ ​be​ ​cleaned​ ​with​ ​paper​ ​towel.​ ​Then
apply​ ​a​ ​little​ ​bit​ ​of​ ​general​ ​purpose​ ​machine​ ​oil​ ​on​ ​the​ ​smooth​ ​rods​ ​and​ ​move​ ​the​ ​axis​ ​back
and​ ​forth​ ​couple​ ​of​ ​times.​ ​This​ ​cleans​ ​the​ ​dirt​ ​and​ ​increases​ ​longevity.
If​ ​you​ ​feel​ ​the​ ​axis​ ​is​ ​not​ ​running​ ​smoothly​ ​anymore,​ ​bearings​ ​can​ ​be​ ​taken​ ​out​ ​and​ ​greased
on​ ​the​ ​inside​ ​(they​ ​need​ ​to​ ​be​ ​removed​ ​from​ ​axis​ ​as​ ​plastic​ ​lip​ ​will​ ​prevent​ ​the​ ​grease​ ​from
getting​ ​inside).​ ​Super-lube​ ​or​ ​any​ ​other​ ​multi​ ​purpose​ ​grease​ ​will​ ​do.

12.1.2​ ​Fans
Both​ ​fans​ ​should​ ​be​ ​checked​ ​and​ ​cleaned​ ​every​ ​couple​ ​hundred​ ​hours,​ ​dust​ ​or​ ​plastic​ ​build
up​ ​can​ ​decrease​ ​their​ ​efficiency​ ​or​ ​even​ ​damage​ ​them.​ ​Computer​ ​cleaner​ ​spray​ ​will​ ​get​ ​the
dust​ ​away​ ​and​ ​tweezers​ ​can​ ​be​ ​used​ ​for​ ​little​ ​plastic​ ​strands.
Both​ ​extruder​ ​and​ ​part​ ​cooling​ ​fans​ ​measure​ ​current​ ​RPM​ ​(Rounds​ ​Per​ ​Minute).​ ​Because​ ​of
that,​ ​they​ ​can​ ​detect​ ​any​ ​problem​ ​that​ ​will​ ​cause​ ​the​ ​fan​ ​to​ ​slow​ ​down,​ ​like​ ​a​ ​piece​ ​of
filament​ ​getting​ ​stuck​ ​in​ ​it.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​get​ ​a​ ​fan​ ​error,​ ​check​ ​that​ ​it​ ​can​ ​rotate​ ​freely,​ ​clear​ ​any
debris​ ​that​ ​may​ ​be​ ​stuck​ ​in​ ​it.

Pict.​ ​33​ ​-​ ​Nozzle​ ​cooling​ ​fan​ ​from​ ​Noctua

57

Pict.​ ​34​ ​-​ ​Fan​ ​error
The​ ​nozzle​ ​cooling​ ​fan​ ​is​ ​made​ ​by​ ​Noctua​.​ ​These​ ​premium​ ​fans​ ​are​ ​known​ ​for​ ​their​ ​superb
quietness​ ​and​ ​exceptional​ ​performance.
You​ ​can​ ​turn​ ​off​ ​the​ ​monitoring​ ​in​ ​LCD​ ​menu​ ​under​ S
​ ettings​ ​->​ ​Check​ ​fans​ ​for​ ​example​ ​if
you​ ​replaced​ ​one​ ​of​ ​the​ ​fans​ ​with​ ​replacement​ ​not​ ​supporting​ ​RPM​ ​sensing.

12.1.3​ ​Extruder​ ​drive​ ​gear
The​ ​hobbed​ ​drive​ ​gear​ ​on​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​motor​ ​shaft​ ​can​ ​have​ ​build​ ​up​ ​of​ ​filament​ ​shavings​ ​in
the​ ​grooves​ ​and​ ​cause​ ​under​ ​extrusion.​ ​A​ ​small​ ​brass​ ​brush​ ​is​ ​ideal​ ​tool​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the
grooves​ ​but​ ​regular​ ​toothpick​ ​will​ ​do​ ​the​ ​job​ ​as​ ​well.​ ​Check​ ​and​ ​clean​ ​from​ ​the​ ​access
window​ ​on​ ​both​ ​sides​ ​of​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​assembly.​ ​Clean​ ​what​ ​you​ ​can,​ ​then​ ​rotate​ ​the​ ​gear
and​ ​repeat.​ ​Nothing​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​disassembled.​ ​Clean​ ​when​ ​you​ ​see​ ​signs​ ​of​ ​missing​ ​plastic
in​ ​the​ ​objects,​ ​e.g.​ ​missing​ ​lines​ ​of​ ​extrusion.

12.1.4​ ​Electronics
It​ ​is​ ​good​ ​practice​ ​to​ ​check​ ​and​ ​eventually​ ​reset​ ​the​ ​electrical​ ​connectors​ ​on​ ​the​ ​mini​ ​RAMBo
board.​ ​Do​ ​so​ ​after​ ​first​ ​50​ ​hours​ ​of​ ​printing​ ​and​ ​then​ ​every​ ​150-200​ ​hours.

12.1.5​ ​PEI​ ​rejuvenation
PEI​ ​can​ ​lose​ ​its​ ​adhesive​ ​powers​ ​after​ ​couple​ ​hundred​ ​hours.​ ​Wipe​ ​thoroughly​ ​with​ ​acetone
when​ ​you​ ​see​ ​models​ ​getting​ ​loose​ ​to​ ​restore​ ​the​ ​adhesion.

12.2​ ​Print​ ​surface​ ​preparation
Print​ ​surface​ ​preparation​ ​is​ ​described​ ​in​ ​6.3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​preparation​​ ​chapter.

58

12.3​ ​Filament​ ​sensor
The​ ​optical​ ​filament​ ​sensor​ ​detects​ ​the​ ​presence​ ​of​ ​filament​ ​and​ ​also​ ​it’s​ ​movement.
Filament​ ​sensor​ ​can​ ​detect:
●
●

Running​ ​out​ ​of​ ​filament
Filament​ ​getting​ ​stuck​ ​-​ ​jammed​ ​nozzle

12.3.1​ ​Running​ ​out​ ​of​ ​filament
Running​ ​out​ ​of​ ​filament​ ​will​ ​no​ ​longer​ ​cause​ ​a​ ​print​ ​failure​.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​run​ ​out​ ​of​ ​filament,​ ​the
printer​ ​will​ ​automatically​ ​pause​ ​the​ ​print,​ ​unload​ ​the​ ​remaining​ ​few​ ​centimeters​ ​in​ ​the
heatbreak​ ​and​ ​move​ ​the​ ​X-carriage​ ​away​ ​from​ ​the​ ​print.​ ​You​ ​will​ ​be​ ​prompted​ ​to​ ​replace​ ​the
spool​ ​and​ ​insert​ ​new​ ​filament.​ ​Use​ ​pliers​ ​to​ ​remove​ ​extruded​ ​filament​ ​from​ ​the​ ​loading
process.​ ​After​ ​that,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​continue​ ​in​ ​the​ c
​ urrent​ ​print​.

12.3.2​ ​Filament​ ​jam

The​ ​sensor​ ​can​ ​also​ ​detect​ ​filament​ ​getting​ ​stuck.​ ​Unfortunately,​ ​in​ ​most​ ​cases,​ i​ t’s​ ​not
possible​ ​to​ ​recover​ ​the​ ​current​ ​print​,​ ​because​ ​it’s​ ​hard​ ​to​ ​detect​ ​the​ ​exact​ ​moment​ ​of​ ​the
jam​ ​happening.​ ​However,​ ​in​ ​future​ ​version​ ​of​ ​the​ ​firmware,​ ​we​ ​plan​ ​to​ ​offer​ ​few​ ​more​ ​options
how​ ​to​ ​eventually​ ​save​ ​the​ ​print.​​ ​When​ ​the​ ​jam​ ​is​ ​detected,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​try​ ​to​ ​unload​ ​the
filament.​ ​However,​ ​this​ ​may​ ​not​ ​be​ ​always​ ​possible​ ​if​ ​too​ ​much​ ​filament​ ​was​ ​already​ ​ground
off.​ ​Either​ ​way,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​stop,​ ​display​ ​a​ ​warning​ ​about​ ​jam​ ​happening​ ​and​ ​cool​ ​down​ ​to
prevent​ ​any​ ​further​ ​damage.

12.3.3​ ​False​ ​sensor​ ​readings​ ​and​ ​debugging
You​ ​can​ ​encounter​ ​false​ ​runout​ ​readings​ ​from​ ​the​ ​sensor.​ ​First​ ​check​ ​if​ ​the​ ​sensor​ ​is
positioned​ ​correctly​ ​and​ ​connectors​ ​are​ ​properly​ ​seated.

Pict.​ ​35​ ​-​ ​Properly​ ​connected​ ​filament​ ​sensor
59

If​ ​everything​ ​is​ ​in​ ​order,​ ​other​ ​causes​ ​might​ ​be:
12.3.3.1​ ​Dust​ ​on​ ​the​ ​sensor​ ​-​ ​how​ ​to​ ​clean
If​ ​you​ ​start​ ​getting​ ​a​ ​lot​ ​of​ ​false​ ​alarms​ ​on​ ​filament​ ​jams​ ​or​ ​filament​ ​running​ ​out,​ ​your​ ​sensor
might​ ​need​ ​cleaning.​ ​The​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​is​ ​to​ ​use​ ​compressed​ ​air.​ ​There​ ​is​ ​a​ ​dedicated​ ​hole​ ​in
the​ ​x-carriage​ ​exactly​ ​for​ ​this​ ​purpose.

Pict.​ ​36​ ​-​ ​Access​ ​hole​ ​for​ ​cleaning​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​sensor
12.3.3.2​ ​Extreme​ ​light​ ​conditions
If​ ​you’re​ ​printing​ ​in​ ​extreme​ ​light​ ​conditions​​ ​(direct​ ​sunlight,​ ​very​ ​strong​ ​LED​ ​lighting)​ ​you
might​ ​also​ ​encounter​ ​some​ ​false​ ​alarms.​ ​Settings​ ​->​ ​Fil.​ ​sensor​ ​[on/off]​.
12.3.3.3​ ​Exotic​ ​filaments
Some​ ​translucent​ ​filaments​ ​focus​ ​more​ ​light​ ​on​ ​the​ ​sensor​ ​and​ ​this​ ​can​ ​result​ ​in​ ​weird
behavior.​ ​Certain​ ​colors​ ​like​ ​ivory,​ ​matte​ ​white​ ​or​ ​lime​ ​green​ ​can​ ​also​ ​cause​ ​false​ ​alarms.​ ​If
you’re​ ​printing​ ​with​ ​any​ ​of​ ​these​ ​filaments​ ​and​ ​you’re​ ​getting​ ​a​ ​lot​ ​of​ ​false​ ​alarms,​ ​consider
turning​ ​the​ ​sensor​ ​off​ ​in​​ ​Settings​ ​->​ ​Fil.​ ​sensor​ ​[on/off]​.

12.4​ ​Clogged​ ​/​ ​jammed​ ​extruder
Material​ ​clogged​ ​in​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​can​ ​cause​ ​problems​ ​with​ ​the​ p
​ rinting​​ ​or​ ​with​ ​the​ ​loading​​ ​of​ ​a
new​ ​filament​.
●
●
●
●

Heat​ ​the​ ​nozzle,​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​from​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​and​ ​cut​ ​the​ ​rod​ ​about​ ​10​ ​cm
above​ ​the​ ​damaged​ ​part.
The​ ​next​ ​step​ ​is​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​extruder.​ ​There​ ​is​ ​a​ ​service​ ​hole​ ​on​ ​the​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​the
extruder​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​access​ ​the​ ​hobbed​ ​pulley​ ​(pict.​ ​37).
Clean​ ​the​ ​hobbed​ ​pulley,​ ​then​ ​heat​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​before​ ​re​loading​ ​the​​ ​filament​.
If​ ​a​ ​problem​ ​persists​ ​you​ ​will​ ​have​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​nozzle​.
60

Pict.​ ​37​ ​-​ ​Cleaning​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​-​ ​you​ ​can​ ​see​ ​the​ ​hobbed​ ​pulley​ ​through​ ​the​ ​service​ ​hole

12.5​ ​Nozzle​ ​cleaning
Do​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​during​ ​these​ ​procedures​ ​as​ ​it​ ​is​ ​preheated​ ​and​ ​you​ ​may
burn​ ​yourself!
Before​ ​you​ ​do​ ​any​ ​of​ ​these​ ​procedures.​ ​Go​ ​to​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​-​ ​settings​ ​-​ ​move​ ​axis​ ​move​ ​Z​ ​axis.​ ​As​ ​you​ ​will​ ​be​ ​operating​ ​with​ ​the​ ​hotend.
Use​ ​a​ ​wire​ ​brush​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​from​ ​outside.​ ​Heat​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​before​ ​you​ ​do​ ​so.
Filament​ ​is​ ​pouring​ ​out​ ​a​ ​little
If​ ​filament​ ​doesn’t​ ​go​ ​through​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​smoothly​ ​and​ ​only​ ​small​ ​volume​ ​is​ ​coming​ ​out,
first​ ​check​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​fan​ ​is​ ​working​ ​properly​​ ​and​ ​that​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​is​ ​set​ ​correctly​ ​(PLA
210​ ​°C;​ ​ABS​ ​255​ ​°C,​ ​HIPS​ ​220​ ​°C,​ ​PET​ ​240​ ​°C)​.​ ​Also​ ​check​ ​that​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​was​ ​correctly
loaded​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder.
If​ ​that​ ​is​ ​not​ ​the​ ​case.​ ​Follow​ ​the​ ​instructions​ ​below:
1. Heat​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​according​ ​to​ ​filament​​ ​you​ ​want​ ​to​ ​print​​ ​from,​ ​load​​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​and
put​ ​a​ ​bundled​ ​acupuncture​ ​needle​​ ​(0,3-0,35​ ​mm)​ ​into​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​from​ ​below​ ​between​ ​1​ ​and​ ​2​ ​cm​ ​deep.
2. Choose​ ​Load​ ​filament​​ ​option​ ​from​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu​ ​and​ ​check​ ​if​ ​filament​ ​is​ ​extruded
properly.
3. Put​ ​the​ ​acupuncture​ ​needle​ ​into​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​again​ ​and​ ​repeat​ ​these​ ​steps​ ​a​ ​few
times​ ​more.​ ​When​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​is​ ​extruded​ ​properly,​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​clear.
None​ ​of​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​is​ ​going​ ​through​ ​the​ ​nozzle
61

If​ ​none​ ​of​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​is​ ​going​ ​thru.​ ​Then​ ​most​ ​likely​ ​your​ ​hotend​ ​got​ ​clogged.​ ​In​ ​order​ ​to
fully​ ​clear​ ​it,​ ​please​ ​follow​ ​these​ ​instructions:
1. Heat​ ​up​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​to​ ​250​ ​°C​ ​for​ ​PLA​ ​or​ ​270°C​ ​for​ ​ABS​ ​jams.
2. Wait​ ​3-5​ ​minutes​ ​and​ ​then​ ​go​ ​LCD​ ​-​ ​Load​ ​filament.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​cleared​ ​the​ ​clog​ ​and
filament​ ​went​ ​thru.​ ​Simply​ ​lower​ ​the​ ​temps​ ​to​ ​normal​ ​and​ ​re-do​ ​load​ ​filament​ ​again.
3. If​ ​successful,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​resume​ ​printing.

12.6​ ​Replacing​ ​/​ ​changing​ ​the​ ​nozzle
In​ ​case​ ​of​ ​replacing​ ​the​ ​Olsson​ ​Ruby​ ​nozzle.​ ​Please​ ​visit​ ​this​ ​website​ ​for
instructions,​ ​otherwise​ ​you​ ​might​ ​damage​ ​it!
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/66-the-olsson-ruby-instructions-for-use​​ ​.
Preheat​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​(​LCD​ ​menu​ ​->​ ​Settings​ ​->​ ​Temperature​ ​->​ ​Nozzle​)​ ​and​ ​set​ ​the
temperature​ ​to​ ​at​ ​least​ ​200°C.​ ​Heating​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​crucial​ ​for​ ​removing​ ​the​ ​old​ ​nozzle​ ​and
putting​ ​in​ ​the​ ​new​ ​one.
1) Move​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​body​ ​upwards​ ​to​ ​get​ ​to​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​end​ ​(LCD​ ​menu​ ​->​ ​Settings​ ​->
Move​ ​axis​ ​->​ ​Move​ ​Z​ ​->​ ​Set​ ​the​ ​height​ ​by​ ​rotating​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​knob​ ​and​ ​then​ ​confirm).
2) Unscrew​ ​the​ ​screw​ ​on​​ ​fan​ ​mouthpiece​​ ​and​ ​the​ ​two​ ​screws​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​fan​ ​and
remove​ ​both​ ​parts​ ​(Pict.​ ​38,​ ​part​ ​1)​.
3) Remove​ ​the​ ​two​ ​front​ ​screws​ ​on​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​fan​ ​(Pict.​ ​38,​ ​part​ ​2).
4) Unscrew​ ​the​ ​two​ ​screw​ ​holding​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​cover​​ ​(Pict.​ ​38,​ ​part​ ​3)​.​ ​Even​ ​though
the​ ​nozzle​ ​itself​ ​is​ ​accessible​ ​directly,​ ​we​ ​recommend​ ​to​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​cover
to​ ​get​ ​access​ ​to​ ​the​ ​heating​ ​element.
5) Now​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​nozzle​ ​body​ ​is​ ​accessible​ ​(Pict.​ ​38,​ ​part​ ​4)​.
6) Hold​ ​the​ ​heating​ ​element​ ​with​ ​a​ ​spanner​ ​(size​ ​17)​ ​and​ ​unscrew​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ (​ Pict.​ ​38,
part​ ​5)​.​ ​Be​ ​careful,​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​still​ ​hot!
When​ ​the​ ​new​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​inserted,​ ​tighten​ ​it​ ​while​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​preheated.​ ​While​ ​tightening​ ​do
not​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​hold​ ​the​ ​heating​ ​element​ ​with​ ​the​ ​spanner.​ ​Re-assemble​ ​the​ ​extruder,​ ​insert​ ​the
filament​ ​and​ ​you​ ​are​ ​ready​ ​to​ ​print.
Be​ ​careful,​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​hot​ ​during​ ​this​ ​whole​ ​process​ ​and​ ​can​ ​cause​ ​burns!
Be​ ​careful​ ​around​ ​the​ ​hotend​ ​thermistor​ ​leads,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​break​ ​them​ ​easily.
Be​ ​careful​ ​and​ ​don’t​ ​apply​ ​force​ ​to​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​or​ ​heater​ ​block,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​bend
the​ ​heatbreak​ ​easily.
It​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​practice​ ​to​ ​run​ ​6.3.8​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​​ ​after​ ​changing​ ​the​ ​nozzle!

62

Pict.​ ​38​ ​-​ ​Nozzle​ ​change

12.7​ ​Printing​ ​problems
12.7.1​ ​Layers​ ​break​ ​and​ ​split​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​ABS​ ​material
63

ABS​ ​material​​ ​has​ ​a​ ​higher​ ​thermal​ ​expansion​ ​than​ ​other​ m
​ aterials​.​ ​We​ ​suggest​ ​other
materials​​ ​like​ ​PET,​ ​HIPS​ ​or​ ​PLA​ ​when​ ​you​ ​print​​ ​larger​ ​models​.

12.7.2​ ​Models​ ​contain​ ​either​ ​too​ ​much​ ​or​ ​not​ ​enough​ ​of​ ​the​ ​filament
You​ ​can​ ​manage​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​flow​​ ​during​ ​the​ ​print​.​ ​Use​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​and​ ​choose​ ​Tune​ ​Flow​​ ​-​ ​xx%​​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​adjust​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​flow​.​ ​Pronterface​ ​users​ ​can​ ​enter​ ​the​ ​value
M221​ ​Sxx​ ​into​ ​the​ ​command​ ​line.
When​ ​you​ ​change​ ​the​ ​filament​​ ​flow​​ ​next​ ​print​​ ​will​ ​use​ ​the​ ​same​ ​settings​​ ​unless​ ​you
change​ ​it​ ​again​ ​in​ ​menu​ ​or​ ​you​ ​reset​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​or​ ​unplug​ ​it​ ​from​ ​the​ ​power​ ​source.

12​.8​ ​Problems​ ​with​ ​finished​ ​models
12.8.1​ ​Model​ ​breaks​ ​and/or​ ​is​ ​easily​ ​damaged
A​ ​typical​ ​feature​ ​of​ ​larger​ ​models​ ​printed​ ​from​ ​ABS.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​have​ ​set​ ​the​ ​temperature
properly​,​ ​the​ ​printer​​ ​is​ ​away​ ​from​ ​drafts​​ ​and​ ​object​ ​design​​ ​is​ ​right,​ ​the​ ​printed​ ​object​ ​should
not​ ​break.​ ​The​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​to​ ​avoid​ ​breaking​ ​or​ ​overall​ ​model​ ​fragility​ ​is​ ​to​ ​choose​ ​a​ ​different
material​.​ ​The​ ​strongest​ ​are​ ​PET,​ ​HIPS​ ​and​ ​PLA;​ ​while​ ​PLA​ ​has​ ​low​ ​heat​ ​resistance,PET​ ​is
the​ ​firmest​ ​and​ ​has​ ​the​ ​lowest​ ​thermal​ ​expansion.
When​ ​parts​ ​break​ ​and​ ​there​ ​is​ ​no​ ​spare​ ​time​ ​to​ ​reprint​ ​the​ ​model​ ​you​ ​can​ ​use
super​ ​glue​ ​or​ ​any​ ​other​ ​glue​ ​for​ ​plastics​ ​for​ ​temporal​ ​fix​ ​:).

12.9​ ​Updating​ ​printer​ ​firmware
Firmware​ ​update​ ​is​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​process​ ​which​ ​is​ ​done​ ​via​ ​the​ ​USB​ ​cable​ ​and​ ​a​ ​computer.​ ​With
the​ ​driver​ ​installation​ ​a​ ​program​ ​called​ ​FirmwareUpdater​ ​V2​​ ​is​ ​installed​ ​on​ ​the​ ​computer.
The​ ​latest​ ​firmware​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​on​ ​http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/​​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​find​ ​the
latest​ ​guide​ ​on​ ​which​ ​firmware​ ​to​ ​choose​ ​and​ d
​ etailed​ ​instructions​​ ​for​ ​the​ ​process.​ ​Printer
will​ ​reset​ ​automatically​ ​right​ ​before​ ​the​ ​update​ ​and​ ​after​ ​the​ ​update​ ​is​ ​finished.​ F
​ irst​ ​Layer
Calibration​​ ​is​ ​required​ ​to​ ​finish​ ​after​ ​the​ ​firmware​ ​update,​ ​see​ ​chapter​ 6
​ .3.9​ ​First​ ​layer
calibration​.

64

13​ ​FAQ​ ​-​ ​common​ ​issues​ ​when​ ​assembling​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​kit
13.1​ ​Printer​ ​is​ ​rocking​ ​-​ ​YZ​ ​frame​ ​-​ ​geometry​ ​check
If​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​rocking​ ​on​ ​the​ ​table,​ ​please​ ​check​ ​step​ ​11​ ​of​ ​Y​ ​axis​ ​assembly​ ​-​ ​YZ​ ​frame​ ​geometry​ ​check.
All​ ​the​ ​components​ ​are​ ​cut​ ​or​ ​drilled​ ​by​ ​a​ ​machine​ ​for​ ​highest​ ​precision,​ ​but​ ​with​ ​uneven
tightening​ ​it​ ​is​ ​possible​ ​to​ ​warp​ ​the​ ​frame.
●
●

Using​ ​your​ ​hand,​ ​try​ ​to​ ​wiggle​ ​with​ ​the​ ​frame​ ​sides​ ​and​ ​check,​ ​whether​ ​some​ ​corners
are​ ​lifting​ ​up​ ​or​ ​not.
In​ ​case​ ​you​ ​find​ ​some​ ​imperfections,​ ​release​ ​the​ ​screws,​ ​press​ ​the​ ​extrusions
against​ ​the​ ​FLAT​ ​SURFACE​ ​and​ ​tighten​ ​them​ ​again.

Pict.​ ​39​ ​-​ ​Proper​ ​way​ ​to​ ​tighten​ ​the​ ​frame,​ ​plates​ ​and​ ​aluminium​ ​extrusion​ ​together.

65

13.2​ ​Printer​ ​stops​ ​printing​ ​soon​ ​after​ ​start
Extruder​ ​is​ ​likely​ ​overheated.​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​nozzle​​ ​fan​ ​is​ ​working​ ​properly​.​ ​If​ ​not,​ ​please
inspect​ ​its​ ​connection​ ​according​ ​to​ ​the​ ​assembly​ ​manual.

Pict.​ ​40​ ​-​ ​Proper​ ​wiring​ ​of​ ​the​ ​connectors

13.3​ ​Printer​ ​can’t​ ​read​ ​the​ ​SD​ ​card
First,​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​the​ ​file​ ​name​​ ​on​ ​the​ ​SD​ ​does​ ​not​ ​contain​ ​special​ ​characters​​ ​otherwise​ ​the​ ​file​ ​could​ ​not​ ​be​ ​displayed​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD.​ ​If​ ​there​ ​is​ ​no​ ​error​ ​in​ ​the​ ​file​ ​name,
check​ ​the​ ​EXT2​ ​wiring​ ​(from​ ​electronics​ ​to​ ​LCD).​ ​If​ ​the​ ​cable​ ​is​ ​connected​ p
​ roperly​,​ ​try​ ​to
swap​ ​the​ ​cables​.

66

13.4​ ​Loose​ ​X-​ ​and/or​ ​Y-axis​ ​belts
Check​ ​if​ ​both​ ​belts​ ​are​ ​properly​​ ​tightened,​ ​loose​ ​belts​ ​would​ ​cause​ ​a​ ​printer​​ ​malfunction​ ​and
prevent​ ​proper​​ ​printing​.​ ​The​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​to​ ​check​ ​is​ ​printing​​ ​a​ ​round​ ​object​ ​-​ ​if​ ​any​ ​of​ ​the
belts​ ​are​ ​not​ ​tightened​ ​properly​​ ​the​ ​result​ ​is​ ​an​ ​irregular​ ​shape​ ​instead​ ​of​ ​a​ ​perfect​ ​circle.
Y-axis​ ​belt​ ​is​ ​located​ ​under​ ​the​ ​heatbed​,​ ​X-axis​ ​belt​ ​moves​ ​the​ ​extruder.​ ​See​ ​the​ ​pictures
with​ ​properly​​ ​tightened​ ​belts.
You​ ​can​ ​check​ ​the​ ​belt​ ​status​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu​ ​under​ S
​ upport​ ​->​ ​Belt​ ​status​​ ​after
successfully​ ​running​ ​a​ ​selftest.​ ​Values​ ​240​ ​+-​ ​40​ ​are​ ​good.

Pict.​ ​41​ ​-​ ​A​ ​properly​ ​tightened​ ​Y-axis​ ​belt​ ​under​ ​the​ ​heatbed

67

Pict.​ ​42​ ​-​ ​A​ ​properly​ ​tightened​ ​X-axis​ ​belt

13.5​ ​Detached​ ​cables​ ​to​ ​the​ ​heatbed
Do​ ​not​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​use​ ​a​ ​spiral​ ​wrap​ ​on​ ​heatbed​​ ​cables​​ ​and​ ​attach​ ​the​ ​cables​​ ​properly​​ ​so​ ​they
won’t​ ​restrict​ ​movement​ ​during​ ​printing.

Pict.​ ​43​ ​-​ ​Cables​ ​to​ ​be​ ​wrapped​ ​in​ ​a​ ​spiral​ ​wrap

68

Print​ ​and​ ​share!
Do​ ​not​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​tag​ ​your​ ​prints​ ​with​ ​#prusai3mk3
while​ ​sharing​ ​so​ ​we​ ​can​ ​find,​ ​pin​ ​and​ ​showcase​ ​them
with​ ​our

http://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-prints/

Happy​ ​Printing​ ​:)

69



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